Final Major Project Transform

TABBY LAZENBURY Nottingham TrentUniversity BA (Hons) Textile Design Email: tabbylaz@gmail.com Mobile: 07834589334

Instagram Design account: @tlazenburytextiles Website: www.tabbylazenbury.wordpress.com

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TRANSFORM

TRANSFORM | explores folded geometric structures that can expand, contract and flex to formsculptural and adaptable textiles. Inspiredby origami, architecture and innovative material technologies, this dynamic sportswear collection showcases engineered ‘trompe l’oeil’ prints and digital embroideries manipulated for the body. Reflective elements highlighting the importance of visibility, padded protection systems and laser cut ventilation add to the functionality, flexibility and strengthof this collection.

TABBYLAZENBURY (BAHonsTextile Design Student)

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CONTENTS 1. ON THE BODY: THE BODY AS A CANVAS FOR EXPERIMENTATION, MANIPULATION AND DESIGN ➢ DIGITAL EMBROIDERY ENGINEERED FOR THE BODY (6-22) ➢ DIGITAL PRINT AND PROJECTION (23-36) ➢ LASER CUT VENTILATION (37-46) 2. CONCEPT: TRANSFORMATIVE STRUCTURES ENGINEERED TO MOVE, FLEX, AND ADAPT TO NEW FORMS. INSPIRED BY CONCEPTS BASED ON ORIGAMI, THESE STRUCTURES ARE A PLATFORM FOR TEXTILE INNOVATION. ➢ SHOCK ABSORBENCY AND PADDED PROTECTION SYSTEMS (49-68) ➢ COLLAPSIBILITY AND TRANSFORMATIVE TECHNICAL TEXTILES (69-80) 3. SAMPLE LOOKBOOK (81-88) 4. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS (89-90) 5. QUOTATION REFERENCES (91)

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1. ON THE BODY THE BODY AS A CANVAS FOR EXPERIMENTATION, MANIPULATION AND DESIGN SUBCHAPTERS: ➢ DIGITAL EMBROIDERY ENGINEERED FOR THE BODY ➢ DIGITAL PRINT AND PROJECTION ➢ LASER CUT VENTILATION

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➢ DIGITAL EMBROIDERY ENGINEERED FOR THE BODY

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MESH AND REFLECTIVE MATERIAL

Fig 1; Hope tree installation, Japan

VENTILATED PANELS FOR BREATHABILITY

Fig 2; Biological heat mapping. MIT Media Lab.

CONTEXTUAL REFERENCES

PADDED PROTECTIONSYSTEMS Fig 3; High Line 23 Condominium tower. New York. 2005-projected 2007. Digital rendering

Fig 4; Comme des Garcon 8

‘When designing the collections for the future, we will have to pay more attention to the customer’s demand for comfort and functionality...’

[Future Textile magazine: 2019. Issue 6: 25]

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PANEL PLACEMENT EXPERIMENTATION

Inspired by thermal technologies and heat mapping on the body, I have created an embroidery design that responds to back muscular groups and flatters form.

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SAFETY FEATURE: QUILTED SECTIONS FOR PADDED PROTECTION

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COMBINATIONS OF REFLECTIVE VINYL AND DIGITAL EMBROIDERIES

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Digital manipulation of embroidery using the Wilcom software allowed me to experiment with different fabric bases showcasing options in colour ways.

Click here to watch my embroidery simulation runs showcasing dynamic movement through stitch

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‘Shocking colours and bright sportsclub hues are very popular on the catwalk. Blocking of colours [fabric in different colours seamed together] is often taken from sports’ dynamic images...’

[O’Mahony & Braddock. 2002: 146]

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DIGITAL EMBROIDERY SIMULATIONS. APPLICATION: EXTENDABLE WATERPROOF GEAR FOR CYCLISTS.

This flat pack waterproof coat is designed for cyclists in wet weather conditions.

The extended section on the arms allows rain to drip off and away from the hand, helping the cyclist to stay dry.

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SPORTS CYCLING HYDRATION PACK

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SPORTS CYCLING HYDRATION PACK EMBELLISHMENT WITH REFLECTIVE THREAD FOR INCREASED ROAD VISABILITY

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TREND AND COLOUR RESERACH PANTONE 19-4052 Classic Blue brings a sense of peace and tranquillity to the human spirit, offering refuge.

In designing for active wear in a post-pandemic world, we must recognize that people will seek colours to offer reassurance and comfort. Pantone’s colour of the year 2020 ‘Classic blue’ will unite us and offer a sense of peace and familiarity for people new to fitness, whilst a fiery oranges will balance this colour in a search for newness, optimism and energy.

Pantone

Submerge instillation showcases PANTONE 19-4052 Classic Blue highlights our desire for dependable stable foundation

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➢ DIGITAL PRINT & PROJECTION

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CONTEXTUAL REFERENCES

Fig 6; Chryssa, Study of Gates No. 4 1967. Tate, London

Fig 7; Origami rooftop Japan.

Fig 5; Stockman Haute Couture Busts

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PROJECTION WORKSHOP

Projecting my designs onto a manniquin can help to visualise graphics and their interaction with the contours of the body.

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TROMPE L’OEIL PRINTS ORIGAMI STRUCTURES MANIPLATED AND MIRRORED FOR DYNAMIC PATTERNS ACROSS THE BODY

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TROMPE L’OEIL PRINTS

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TROMPE L’OEIL PRINTS

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GARMENT CONSTRUCTION: LEGGING AND CROP TOP OUTCOMES

Flexible scuba jersey hugs the body, ideal for fitness yoga or other gym activity.

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A zip is attached to the back of the legging, making it ideal for phone or iPod storage.

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NIGHT VIEW

TROMPE L’OEIL DIGITAL PRINT

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Reflective strips allow additional benefits of increased visibility in low light conditions.

Increasing road safety for commuters and runners.

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3D ANIMATION VISUALISATION

Click here to watch a 3D animation of this cycling top

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In collaboration with an animator, I was able to showcase my cycling top design on a 3D digital model, translating flat technical drawings to map three dimensional form. Could this be the future of fashion?

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TROMPE L’OEIL PRINTS

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COLLAGING MATERIAL AND PRINT FOR TRAINER APPLICATION

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➢ LASER CUT VENTILATION

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Fig 8; Biologic MIT Media Lab

Fig 9; Pauline van Dongen, Skyn suit

CONTEXTUAL REFERENCES

Fig 10; Biologic MIT Media Lab

Fig 11; Hope tree installation, Japan 41

LASER CUT VENTILATION

This three layer laser cut design comprises of a blue stretchy scuba, a reflective material to increase road visibility and echo the triangular shapes engineered to muscle groups on the back.

The third material is a black power-mesh for added comfort and breathability.

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REFLECTIVE LASER CUT VINYL AND CORDING TO ENHANCE VISABILITY

Developing my ventilated design to extend down to for the length of the athletes back aided by graphic projections onto the mannequin to envision scale and placement.

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“Deconstruction in fashion… displays an almost X-ray capability to reveal the enabling conditions of fashion’s bewitching charms (i.e. charms conveyed in concepts… illusion, creativity, innovation, exclusivity and luxury) and the principles of it’s practice (i.e. form, material, construction, pattern, stitching and finish)… At one level it suggests a reversal of construction… a reading of clothes that look unfinished” [Alison Gill. 2007: 489]

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LASER CUT DESIGNS TO PRODUCE PHYSICAL BACK PANNEL

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VENTILATION LASER CUT BACK PIECE AND BREATHABLE ARM PANEL

Ventilation features: ➢ Orange neoprene laser cut flaps are designed to open during movement giving the wearer more air circulation to the arm to cool them down. ➢ Laser cut reverse applique design on arm panels made using a blue power-mesh underneath increases breathability.

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2. CONCEPT TRANSFORMATIVE STRUCTURES ENGINEERED TO MOVE, FLEX, AND ADAPT TO NEW FORMS. INSPIRED BY CONCEPTS BASED ON ORIGAMI, THESE STRUCTURES ARE A PLATFORM FOR TEXTILE INNOVATION. SUBCHAPTERS:

➢ SHOCK ABSORBENCY AND PADDED PROTECTION SYSTEMS

➢ COLLAPSIBILITY AND TRANSFORMATIVE TECHNICAL TEXTILES

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“Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.�

Arthur C. Clarke

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➢ SHOCK ABSORBENCY & PADDED PROTECTION SYSTEMS

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CONTEXTUAL REFERENCES Fig 13;

Fig 12; The House that shape shifts. Barcelona’s Institute for Advanced Architecture

Fig 14; Steam stretch. Issey Miyake

TEMPERATURE DEPENDENT STRUCTURES

Auxetics are structures or materials that have a negative Poisson's ratio. When stretched, they become thicker perpendicular to the applied force. ...

Auxetics may be useful in applications such as body Armor, packing material, knee and elbow pads, robust shock absorbing material. Here the structure can be seen applied to the base of Nike trainers.

Studies have shown how the foot expands and contracts upon impact with and lift off from the ground, The auxetic form mimics how the body and foot react to force and accounts for the massive changes in foot size, making it perfect for runners.

Fig 15 and 16; Nike News. 2019. Auxetic trainer sole.

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Fig 17; Nike News. 2019. Auxetic trainer sole.

SURFACE DESIGN AND APPLICATION CONTEXTUAL REFERNCES Fig 20; Nike performance trainer

Fig 21; Adidas ‘Futurecraft’ 4D

Fig 18; Trend Union A/W Trainer details

Fig 19; Kobe AD NXT by Nike, 2020

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Own Photography using slow shutter speed

Own digital embroidery design simulations

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DECONSTRUCTED TRAINER SOLE USING 3D PRINTING TECHOLOGY

MATERIALS USED

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SHOCK ABSORBENT ORIGAMI INSPIRED SOLE AIDS MOVEMENT THROUGH ENERGY RETURN

MATERIALSUSED

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PHYSICAL TRAINER SOLE DESIGN MADE BY CASTING IN A 3D PRINTED MOULD

In collaboration with NTU product design I have designed a silicone trainer sole made using a casting process using a 3D printing technology.

The raised structure is flexible and designed to support the foot during movement.

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Mini Trainer Collection to combine 3D printed soles with digital embroidery . digital print and technical spacer mesh materials.

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PATTERN AND COLOUR VARIATION FOR DECONSTRUCTED FORM

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SHOCK ABSORBENT CONCEPT APPLIED TO TRAINER SOLE

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‘The triangle fits into more parts of the body than any other shape. Place it wherever you wish - waist, midriff, hip, back, neck. It will tell you when you’ve hit the right spot.’

[Beene in Wolcott, Luther & Parmal. 2005: 139]

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EXPLORING POSSIBILITIES OF SHOULDER PADDED PROTECTION SYSTEMS

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ORIGAMI INSPIRED SHOULDER PADDED PROTECTION CYCLING TOP

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PHYSICAL MULTIHEAD SAMPLES

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➢ COLLAPSIBILITY AND TRANFORMATIVE TECHNICAL TEXTILES

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CONTEXTUAL REFERENCES

Fig 22; Max Schath e-motion hood with shape memory alloys

Fig 24; Sound Cave

Fig 23; Collapsible Bag

Fig 25; Collapsible paper helmet.

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Mapping digital embroideries onto the origami structure to envision the way the surface can be stiffened using Padloft on the multi-head.

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COLLAPSABLE SPORTS RUCKSACK

Thread will be used to stitch in between the shapes to secure the mesh overlay.

The sports rucksack is designed to collapse in on it’s folds upon openingand zip close at the side for ease of access. The folded design acts as both an innovative structure to absorb impact as well as increase visibility in low light conditions due to it’s embedded reflective vinyl shapes, over layered with a black power mesh.

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COLLAPSABLE SPORTS RUCKSACK

MATERIALSUSED

Black power mesh overlayered onto on the blue waterproof ripstop and the laser cut silver leather.

Royal blue waterproof ripstop used in main bag body as a base for the leather

PROMO VIDEO BELOW:

Click here to watch the rucksack in action

Silver coated leather used laser cut into the geo pattern

Dark blue spacer mesh used inside the shoulder straps and inside the back panel for extra comfort and padded protection Orange waterproof ripstop for inside back lining.

Orange piping in the straps paired with a reflective fabric and black mesh for increased visibility

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The bag’s collapsible space saving nature allows easy access through it’s transformative origami inspired capabilities.

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Adjustable straps allows the bag to be custom fit for the user.

Reflective material is used in the straps increasing road safety and encouraging commuters to be confident on the road.

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3. SAMPLE LOOKBOOK

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4. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Fig 1; Hope tree installation, Japan. Japan. Berkeley, C. 2012. Paper Works. Gingko Press: London.

Fig 2; Biological heat mapping. MIT Media Lab. Tucker, E. 2015. MIT Media Lab’s BioLogic material opens and closes in response to humidity. Dezeen [Online]. Available at: https://www.dezeen.com/2015/11/04/mit-media-lab-tangible-media-group-biologic-materialbacteria-fashion-design/ Fig 3; High Line 23 Condominium tower. New York. 2005-projected 2007. Digital rendering. Hodge, B., 2005. Skin and Bones: Parallel Practices in Fashion and Architecture. London: Thames and Hudson.

Fig 4; Comme des Garcon. Hodge, B., 2005. Skin and Bones: Parallel Practices in Fashion and Architecture. London: Thames and Hudson.

Fig 5; Stockman Haute Couture Busts. Foiret, C. 2011. Haute Couture Stockman by Eem. Trendland [Online]. Available at: https://trendland.com/haute-couture-stockman-by-eem/ Fig 6; Chryssa, Study of Gates No. 4 1967. Tate, London Fig 7; Origami rooftop Japan. Hodge, B., 2005. Skin and Bones: Parallel Practices in Fashion and Architecture. London: Thames and Hudson.

Fig 8; Biologic MIT Media Lab. Tucker, E. 2015. MIT Media Lab’s BioLogic material opens and closes in response to humidity. Dezeen [Online]. Available at: https://www.dezeen.com/2015/11/04/mit-media-lab-tangible-media-group-biologic-materialbacteria-fashion-design/ Fig 9; Pauline van Dongen, Skyn suit. Howarth, D. 2016. Condom material becomes sportswear for Pauline Can Dongelen’s lond-jump suit. Dezeen [Online}. Avaliable at: https://www.dezeen.com/2016/07/21/skyn-condom-material-sportswear-long-jump-suitpauline-van-dongen/

Fig 10; Biologic MIT Media Lab. Tucker, E. 2015. MIT Media Lab’s BioLogic material opens and closes in response to humidity. Dezeen [Online]. Available at: https://www.dezeen.com/2015/11/04/mit-media-lab-tangible-media-group-biologic-materialbacteria-fashion-design/

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Fig 11; Hope tree installation, Japan. Berkeley, C. 2012. Paper Works. Gingko Press: London Fig 12-13; The House that shape shifts. Barcelona’s Institute for Advanced Architecture

Fig 14; Steam stretch. Issey Miyake. Chiu, L. 2014. Issey Miyake: 23 Steam Stretch. Stylus [Online] Available at: https://www.stylus.com/rqrrrk Fig 15-17; Nike News. 2019. Auxetic trainer sole. Nike Pro Hyperstrong: Taking Impact Protection to the next level. Nike News [Online] Available at: https://news.nike.com/news/nike-prohyperstrong-taking-impact-protection-to-the-next-level Fig 18; Trend Union A/W 2018 Trainer details. Edelkoort, L. 2018. Trend Union.

Fig 19; Kobe AD NXT by Nike, 2020. Nike News. Lamanoosh [Online] Available at: https://lemanoosh.com/tagged/nike/.

Fig 20; Nike performance trainer. Nike News. Lamanoosh [Online] Available at: https://lemanoosh.com/tagged/nike/.

Fig 21; Adidas ‘Futurecraft’ 4D. Howard, D. 2017. 4D Futurecraft. Dezeen [Online]. Avaiable at: https://www.dezeen.com/2017/04/10/adidas-futurecraft-4d-running-shoes-digital-lightsynthesis-carbon/ Fig 22; Max Schath e-motion hood with shape memory alloys. San Martin, M. 2010. Future Fashion: Innovative materials and Technology. Promopress: Spain, Barcelona.

Fig 23; Collapsible Bag. Berkeley, C. 2012. Paper Works. Gingko Press: London Fig 24; Sound Cave. Hodge, B., 2005. Skin and Bones: Parallel Practices in Fashion and Architecture. London: Thames and Hudson.

Fig 25; Collapsible paper helmet. Morby, A. 2017. Foldable paper helmet. Dezeen [Online] Avaliable at: https://www.dezeen.com/2016/11/17/ecohelmet-foldable-paper-cycling-helmettransport-safety-design-winner-james-dyson-award/

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5. QUOTATION REFERENCES

Clarke, A. (1962). Profiles of the Future: An Inquiry into the Limits of the Possible. London: Gateway Publishing.

Gill., A. (2007). Deconstruction Fashion. In: Malcolm Barnard Fashion Theory. Milton: Abingdon : Routledge. 489-509 Haran, F. (2019). Future Textile magazine: Issue 6: 25.

O’Mahony, M. & Braddock S, E. (2002). Sportstech: Revolutionary Fabrics, Fashion & Design. London: Thames & Hudson Wolcott, J. et al. (2005). Geoffrey Beene. New York: The Vendome Press

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Tabby Lazenbury BA (Hons) Textile Design Email: tabbylaz@gmail.com Mobile: 07834589334