Footwear Plus | July 2023

RUNNING TALLY CEO JOEY POINTER ON FLEET FEET’S BIG GROWTH PLANS

THIS JUST IN MEN IN MILAN

HIGH TIMES

LOWA BOOTS MARKS

100 YEARS IN RUGGED FASHION

SNEAKER SNAZZY

DESIGNERS PUMP UP THE KICKS VOLUME

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FEATURES

12 The Long Run Fleet Feet CEO Joey Pointer on how the nation’s largest specialty running retailer is picking up its growth pace.

By Greg Dutter

20 The Heights Marking Lowa Boots 100th anniversary, General Manager

Peter Sachs looks back on the many high points and to the rising trail ahead.

By Greg Dutter

26 To the Max! Cushy thick soles deliver comfort and techy appeal.

By Kathleen O’Reilly

DEPARTMENTS

4 Editor’s

Belinda Pina Publisher

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

Nancy Campbell

Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors

EDITORIAL

Kathy Passero Editor at Large

Kathleen O’Reilly Fashion Editor

Ann Loynd Burton

Contributing Editor

Melodie Jeng

Marcy Swingle

Contributing Photographers

ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION

Noelle Heffernan Sales Director

Laurie Guptill

Production Manager

Kathy Wenzler

Circulation Director

Catherine Rosario

Office Manager

Mike Hoff

Digital Director

WAINSCOT MEDIA

Carroll Dowden

Chairman

Mark Dowden

President & CEO

Steven J. Resnick

Vice President & CFO

OFFICES

ADVERTISING/EDITORIAL

One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656

Tel: (201) 571-2244

On cover: Mixed material retro joggers with chunky soles by Jambu This page: Avre max sole trainers with recycled knit-to-shape uppers and hidden laces.

Photographer: Mark Andrew; stylist: Mariah Walker/Art Department; fashion editor: Kathleen O’Reilly; model: Alexandra Van Zant/Q Model Mgmt.; hair and makeup: Nevio Ragazzini/Next Artists; digital tech: Chris Wert; styling assistant: Eileen Viglietta; production assistant: Olivia Mannarino.

Advertising: Belinda. Pina@Wainscotmedia.com

Editorial: Greg.Dutter@ Wainscotmedia.com

CIRCULATION

One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656 Tel: (201) 571-2244 Circ@Wainscotmedia.com

Salute to the Long-Haulers

ANOTHER EDITORIAL THEME arose organically during the making of our latest issue. (I love when that happens.) This time around it’s people who’ve logged many years working at one company. They are Laura Conwell-O’Brien, managing director of The Atlanta Shoe Market (p. 8); Fleet Feet CEO Joey Pointer, the subject of our retail profile (p. 12); Glen Barad, president of Taos Footwear and the latest participant in our A Note to My Younger Self series (p. 18); and Peter Sachs, general manager of Lowa Boots, the outdoor specialty brand that is currently celebrating its 100th anniversary (p. 20). Conwell-O’Brien is marking 40 years as show director for the Southeastern Shoe Travelers Association-owned event. Pointer has logged 19 years at Fleet Feet. Barad is marking 18 years since founding Taos. And Sachs is clocking in at 27 years with Lowa. (For those keeping score, I’m at 30 years with Footwear Plus.)

First and foremost, I salute my fellow long haulers! It takes dedication, perseverance, and vision to log decades at one company successfully. While the footwear and journalism industries have changed greatly over the decades, we’ve found ways to adapt, evolve, and thrive. For example, when I started as Features Editor at this magazine there was no internet, let alone digital editions! I used to go to the New York Public Library to research stories, but I haven’t set foot in that place in years. If I need more reminders of how much time has passed and how much our businesses have changed, I need only look to this magazine’s growing number of profiles of retailer and wholesaler offspring who’ve ascended to leadership positions. Some were in grade school when I started! Time (always) marches on, and change comes with it.

The long haulers featured in this issue hail from different parts of the country. Pointer grew up on a small tobacco farm in North Carolina. Barad in Beverly Hills, but not the image that first comes to mind. Quite the opposite, in fact. Who knew? Conwell-O’Brien is a Pittsburgh native turned absolute Southern lady, and Sachs is from the Great Midwest, although after three decades living in Greenwich, CT, he has earned his Yankee stripes. Each possesses different skillsets, and their jobs, while in the same industry, are quite different. But they

all have two traits in common: They love their jobs and this industry. Their enthusiasm pours forth when discussing what, how, and why they do what they do, as well as what keeps them coming back season after season, year after year.

Of course, their love of shoes plays a leading role. I mean, these four executives really love shoes. They wax poetic on what makes for a great shoe and why this accessory is the most important part of any outfit, period. This love of footwear goes far beyond utilitarian needs and benefits. For instance, Pointer and Sachs’ love of running and the outdoors motivates them as much as attaining new sales milestones does. Making and selling shoes that enable millions of people to pursue their passions and live a healthier and more active life is icing on their cakes. There are duller industries to toil in, for sure.

Another common trait among these four executives is their love of their colleagues. They are quick to profess that they could have never achieved success or lasted as long without the hard work, talent, and dedication of their coworkers. Barad likens his employees to teammates who make him better. Pointer is known to jump behind cash registers to appreciate and better understand what his frontline workers experience. Similarly, all four view customers not as business associates, but as friends first. Conwell-O’Brien’s overall aim, for example, is to have attendees feel as though they are family members being welcomed into her Atlanta home for biannual reunions. And as much as Lowa is renowned for its quality products, Sachs says it’s the people who have been most responsible for the company reaching this anniversary milestone—and will be for future anniversaries. Those partnerships run deep and have withstood many ups and downs.

Finally, there is their desire to stay on the job. Surely each could walk off into the sunset, but none are willing just yet. Their enthusiasm is inspiring. Their stamina, also, is encouraging. Apparently loving what you do helps keep you young. On that note, my father was an architect who never really “worked” a day in his life. He did what he loved, and that was to draw buildings, which he did well into his 80s. In fact, he kept on drawing up to the very end. Personally, I love writing stories, and this seems like a good place to end this latest story.

P.S. When I started in journalism, emoji wasn’t even a word!

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

Sneaker Streets

Milan is where the rubber meets the road—literally.

Photography by Melodie Jeng

What a Peach

Atlanta ripens into the world’s largest footwear show.

THE ATLANTA SHOE MARKET’S numbers don’t lie. The upcoming edition (Aug. 12-14) will see 900 exhibitors (about 1,700 brands), covering 1 million-plus square feet of the Cobb Galleria Centre and Renaissance Waverly Hotel, making it the largest footwear trade show in the world, according to Executive Director Laura Conwell-O’Brien. In fact, this upcoming show sold out in record time, and now has a waiting list of 60 companies.

“I was able to accommodate about 20 additional exhibitors in the lower-level Shoe Court entrance, where Camuto Group, Jeffrey Campbell, and Ugg, among several others, set up shop,” Conwell-O’Brien says. “And we’ve already signed on for additional space for the February ’24 show that can accommodate up to 150 more 10’x10’ booths.”

Conwell-O’Brien has little doubt the space will sell out quick. But ever the pragmatic show organizer, the plan is to make sure there is no empty space. “If we sell out the space for 90 booths in the first couple of weeks, I can extend into the adjacent ballroom for another 60 booths,” she explains, noting it’ll be in the Garden Court between the Cobb Galleria Centre and Renaissance Waverly Hotel. “Adding 150 booths could be enough, but I’d rather have a sold-out show than have any empty space.”

Conwell-O’Brien’s approach to managing the show always has the bigger picture in mind. From day one, which now dates back 40 years, she has approached each edition with the mission to create a show that’s “easy to shop.” That starts with being under one roof—a feat she’s managed to achieve by regularly rejiggering floor plans and finding every nook and cranny to accommodate more exhibitors. It also involves consistency. Attendees know what to expect in Atlanta. “We don’t give them a lot of peripheral distractions, like a lot of seminars,” she says. “Sometimes that can get convoluted. People come here to work.”

That said, there will be the traditional Cocktail Party & Casino Night at the Cobb Energy Centre on the first night, and NSRA will hold its semiannual retail education seminar on the morning of day two in a ballroom of the Renaissance Waverly Hotel. Those aspects are part of the show’s consistency factor, Conwell-O’Brien notes. “People know what to expect here. A

show that covers every facet of the industry, from men’s, women’s, and kids’ to athletic, comfort, and high fashion.” She adds, “There is no other true shoe show. We have more vendors than anyone else, no question. We’ve become the national show, whether people want to call it that or not. And while we’ve always tried to enhance the show.”

For Conwell-O’Brien it’s a labor of love. While there is great pride in building Atlanta into the industry leader, that’s never been the driving factor. “I don’t think about it in regard to building an empire,” she says. “I love what I do. To me, it’s just giving back to an industry that I totally love.”

Part of that entails respecting the dates of other shows, as well as trying to best please the needs of the entire industry, as opposed to select segments. For example, not everyone (ever) agrees on the timing. Comfort lifestyle brands would prefer the Atlanta show to be earlier, whereas fashion brands like the customary second week of February and August. “I care about not overlapping FFANY dates, because I believe my fashion exhibitors need to be in New York then,” Conwell-O’Brien says, noting that the Atlanta dates are locked for next year and set through 2028. “I don’t think those brands would be ready in mid-January or mid-July. So we try and do what’s best for the industry, even though we’ll never make everyone perfectly happy.”

In the meantime, ConwellO’Brien presses ahead. When she took the Atlanta show reins four decades ago, then housed in the Atlanta Apparel Market downtown, it topped out at 250 exhibitors and 100,000 square feet. It wasn’t until the show moved to its suburban digs in 1996 that it began to expand. Then it really hit a growth spurt once the surrounding area became a

destination. “When we first moved here, there was nothing around our location, not even decent restaurants,” she says. “We had to create excitement with cocktail parties and whatever, but since Truist Park and The Battery have opened, the whole area has become a great destination. It’s another reason why we’re getting more attendees from across the country and internationally. They used to go elsewhere, and now they’re coming to Atlanta.”

On that note, Conwell-O’Brien has no plans to retire anytime soon. The Atlanta show is her baby. Plus, she’s in striking distance of a 50th anniversary. Of course, it’s not a “job,” if you truly love it. “I never expected the show to grow into what it has become,” she says. “I just wanted to do the best I could and always make it a good show. I feel very blessed.”

The Battery’s lineup of food and drink is a short walk from the show floor; Atlanta Shoe Market’s Laura Conwell-O’Brien.

IR Show Welcomes All

The San Diego event is charging ahead.

ROME WASN’T BUILT in a day, and nor are trade shows. It takes time, commitment, word-of-mouth, good timing, a great location, and support— from both vendors and buyers—to build a successful show. You might also add faith as a key building block. Namely, a collective belief that the industry needs to come together to conduct business with existing customers and, equally important, potential new ones, and in doing so, a stronger and healthier industry emerges.

As IR Show Director Gary Hauss puts the finishing touches on the upcoming fourth edition at the San Diego Convention Center (July 28-30) unity is his overriding message. There is strength in balanced attendance numbers. On that note, he reports registered buyer attendance, as of press time, was up more than 25 percent and exhibitor space up nearly 20 percent. The latter spans a Who’s Who of comfort lifestyle and athleisure brands, a solid and growing work category, and an expanding fashion and accessories segment. IR has quickly established itself as the largest West Coast shoe show housed under one roof and, according to Hauss, is “the easiest one to walk.” Call it the house that Hauss built.

“We’re proud of what we’ve built thus far,” Hauss affirms. “There’s a great buzz in the industry about IR, but we still have a long way to go. Laura Conwell-O’Brien, who’s been terrific with offering advice, reminded me recently that her management of the Atlanta show has been a 30-year, overnight success story. She told me to be patient and build slowly, but with a great foundation.”

If it were only that simple, of course. Building a show is hard work, especially in an industry coming off the pandemic. Times are unpredictable and dollars even scarcer. How, what, and when retailers buy shoes has changed dramatically. Trade shows—the ones that have survived—have been forced to adapt. One can no longer assume people will just show up. Still, not doing so could be a grave mistake, Hauss warns. “Retailers need to take advantage of the opportunity to meet in person with vendors under one roof, the same way vendors need to realize that if they don’t support certain shows then how can they expect buyers to attend,” he says. “Otherwise, we’ll end up with smaller regional shows that requires a greater expense of time and money.”

Hauss believes it takes at least three times before vendors should decide if a show is right for them or not. That enables them to establish a presence, while also helping assure buyers that they will be there. Unfortunately, the patience and willingness to make such an investment isn’t what it used to be, he says. “Lots of smaller and newer brands don’t come back for a second show, because many of them think that since they bought a booth, buyers would just show up,” he says. “But it doesn’t work that way. You have to really work it to line up appointments. It’s a grind.”

Similarly, Hauss believes buyers need to approach shows with a broader perspective. A lifelong shoe retailer, he says top priorities, in addition to

seeing brands you already carry, should be to seek out new ones as well as to find direction, be it the latest materials, colors, silhouettes, and categories. “I always sought to add one to three new brands at a show that wouldn’t in any way duplicate what I was already doing to give our customers an extra choice as well as potentially attract new customers,” he says. “But I’m not so sure all retailers today understand what attending a show can really do for their business. Many are flying by the seat of their pants.”

Thus, Hauss’ overriding mission for vendors and buyers to embrace IR Show’s bigger picture potential. There’s much to be gained from such relationship building, he believes. “We welcome all brands, reps, management, and retailers from all over and outside the country,” he says. “It’s an opportunity to spend meaningful time together, whether that’s in booths, the aisles, going out to dinner in the nearby Gaslight District, or at our complimentary Opening Night Cocktail Party.” Hauss adds, “It takes both sides to make that commitment, and it will be to the benefit of the entire industry.”

Soles4Souls’ Fundraiser Aids Homeless Kids

SOLES4SOULS THIRD ANNUAL Race4EveryKid event, a virtual movement challenge, knocked it out of the park by raising more than $250,000 that resulted in 12,530 pairs of shoes given to children experiencing homelessness across the country. Every $20 raised through Race4EveryKid provided a pair of new kicks to a homeless child, allowing them to attend school, try out for a sports team, and stay active.

“This year, we doubled the number of participants and nearly double the funds raised,” reports Buddy Teaster, CEO of the charitable organization. “So many people got involved, including our staff, board, and brand partners, and we were so happy with the results.”

One such brand partner was Nike. In the final week of the month-long fundraiser, the company matched participant donations, resulting in an extra 1,223 kids receiving new shoes. “This was the first time Nike was involved, and the first time we had a brand partner offer matching donations for the Race4EveryKid,” Teaster says. “Having their support really helped us bring in more donations in the final week of the race. Their support was huge.”

Unfortunately, the race to assist children in need of housing continues. More than 1.5 million American children currently experience homelessness, and in Soles4Souls’ hometown of Nashville, TN, more than 4,000 children lack a stable residence. “We plan to keep aiming high for the next year,” Teaster says. “The race gets better and better each year, so I know that we’ll be upping our goal and providing more new athletic shoes to children experiencing homelessness.”

It’s (almost) always sunny in San Diego. New kicks smile!

Race4EveryKid virtual run, walk, swim, or bike event raises more than $250K.

Skechers Gets Satisfaction

Rolling Stones collab strikes a powerful chord.

SKECHERS’ LATEST COLLAB has tongues wagging. That’s because the company has teamed with The Rolling Stones on its first capsule collection featuring the band’s iconic tongue logo across a range of men’s and women’s sneaker silhouettes, including its top-selling Uno and Roadies Surge styles. More dual gender styles are set to hit the fashion stage in 2024.

The two brands jam well together—like bandmates Mick Jagger and Keith Richards. “They make music, we make shoes, but we’re also two global brands known around the world,” says Michael Greenberg, president. “A perfect match.” A family renowned for its marketing savvy, Greenberg tips his cap to the band’s branding chops. “There are some with logos known well by many, but not on the same scale as The Stones,” he says. “As a brand, I admire how they have maintained and grown their symbol from country to country and generation to generation.”

On that note, Greenberg says one of his favorite parts of the partnership is how Skechers is bringing it to life in its stores. “From giant amps to electric guitars, we’re having a blast with our point-of-purchase materials and tying them in with our product,” he says. “The window impact is powerful, and it’s drawing new consumers into our stores.”

Lace me up: Uno sneaker with AirCooled Memory Foam insoles and Skech-Air clear airbag midsoles.

Skechers/Stones collab on display at the band’s Carnaby Street flagship in London.

The Long Run

Fleet Feet is already the nation’s largest specialty running retailer.

CEO Joey Pointer sees even greater growth opportunities ahead and believes the chain’s brightest

By Greg Dutter

RUNNING A SUCCESSFUL retail operation is a lot like running. The second you slow down, you lose ground to competitors. And if you cramp up and stop, you can be left behind for good.

Joey Pointer refuses to let that happen to Fleet Feet. The chain currently boasts approximately 300 stores and $600 million in annual sales, and Pointer’s five-year goal is to expand to 400 stores and hit the $1 billion mark. The CEO is confident those milestones are within reach, having already set a blistering pace since being promoted from CFO in 2017. Fleet Feet has acquired businesses (Jack Rabbit and Marathon Sports chains, most notably), opened numerous company- and franchise-owned locations, expanded its digital footprint, introduced Fit ID foot-scanning devices in stores, and unveiled a new flame-inspired logo. Next up is a revolutionized loyalty program set to debut by year’s end.

What looks like a sprint, though, is actually an ultra-marathon. That’s because Pointer isn’t just working on a five-year growth plan for the now 47-year-old business; he’s on a journey to build a 100-year brand. In fact, what he loves most about his job is the challenge of finding ways to grow

and evolve to ensure that Fleet Feet is just as relevant today as it was a year ago, five years ago, etc.

“You have to earn it every single day to stay on that journey,” says Pointer, an avid runner. “You have to win with every single customer, and past success doesn’t equal future success. When we open our doors each day, we have to be on our game and give customers that unparalleled experience. Because if we ever stop doing that, we won’t hit our goals. So, every day is Day One of building a 100-year brand.”

This effort spans every facet of Fleet Feet’s business. It’s why Pointer regularly visits stores to get an in-the-trenches perspective of how well they are serving customers and what can be improved. He often comes back with reams of notes to run by the management team at the company’s Carrboro, NC, headquarters. He even jumps behind the cash register for brief tours of duty, looking for ways to improve the overall shopping experience and to fully appreciate what his employees (called “outfitters”) go through on a daily basis.

“To perform on that retail floor, where customers have all this knowledge at their fingertips yet still look to our outfitters to be experts is hard,” Pointer says, confessing that he’s “horrible” at it. Still, he still believes it’s the best way to help Fleet Feet get better. “To be a great leader, you have to be a great listener,

days are yet to come.

and I need to be as close to the business as possible. I’m in stores regularly, speaking with customers and employees, always looking for ways to improve.”

Pointer loves what he sees during his Fleet Feet pop-ins. Take a recent exchange he witnessed at a Tampa, FL, location. The outfitter was working with an elderly female customer who’d been through knee replacement, a broken hip, and three back surgeries. “In addition to assisting her in taking her shoes off and on and lacing them up, he installed new sliders on her walker that she’d bought at a store next door,” Pointer says. “Our people are the secret sauce of our brand. We call them our Day Makers.”

Such customer experiences make Fleet Feet unique, according to Pointer. “We’re helping people reach their goals, at every level, surface, and distance. But it’s about more than providing solutions. It’s about our staff’s inspiration, knowledge, and commitment to go above and beyond in order to create amazing customer experiences,” he says. “It’s about taking the extra time to really connect on a one-on-one basis. It’s that passion and commitment that separates Fleet Feet from everyone else. Ultimately, it’s a level of service and experience that you just don’t get at every retail environment.”

Pointer says Fleet Feet’s community-oriented approach is another point of differentiation. The stores serve as meeting places for runners and walkers of all ages and levels to shop for the latest shoes and accessories as well as places to connect. That requires building a corporate culture that empowers local decision-making, which includes franchise owners and company-owned store managers deciding which community partners and events to sponsor. It also involves hiring people who believe it’s a privilege to serve these communities. “We’re community retailers, and I believe the Fleet Feet brand is brought to life by our people, who make us the best national resource for local running,” he says.

Christopher Cohen, vice president of sales for Hoka US, says Fleet Feet’s commitment to the communities it serves runs deep and is a “clear strength.” He links the chain’s success to goals that center on what is best for each store, the team, and respective communities. “They take the long view on their business and look to create a sense of community at scale,” Cohen says. “They also have a remarkable service model, placing consumers’ needs at the center of their thinking. This approach goes beyond transactional thinking, leading to consumer trust and loyalty.” In fact, Cohen says one of Fleet Feet’s most unique characteristics, especially for a retailer of its scale, is its ability to run like a local specialty retailer. “Their blended model of both company-owned and franchise doors makes

Point Man

On the run with Fleet Feet CEO Joey Pointer.

Joey Pointer loves everything about running. The physical and mental benefits, the camaraderie, and the shoes. And, like any runner (and retailer) worth their salt, he hates losing, which happened during a recent 5K race he entered with his 12-year-old son.

As the Pointer family story goes, the son had been talking trash leading up to race day, claiming to be the fastest in the household. So Dad planned to teach him a lesson, setting a killer pace at the gun—one he was sure would leave Junior in the dust. Alas, it didn’t turn out that way.

“We crossed mile one and he said, ‘Dad, I can’t keep this pace.’ And I thought, ‘Where’d he come from? You’re not supposed to keep this pace,’” Pointer recalls. “So I surged again with the intent to break him. Then, around mile two, I could hear his footsteps and a quarter mile later he just ran away from me. He never looked at me or said a word when he passed. He won the race.”

Pointer confesses he struggled initially to find joy in his son’s happiness. “I used every advantage I could; I even had better shoes on,” he says with a laugh. “His advantage was that he just had a better engine than mine.” Wounded ego aside, Pointer loves running with his three kids. “There’s something just magical about going for a run with your kids,” he says.

Pointer’s love of all things running is prob-

ably one reason why he recently celebrated his 19th year at Fleet Feet. He enjoys all aspects of his job: the people, product, and Fleet Feet’s mission. “Our people make it fun, rewarding, and exciting,” he says. “I also love to try on new sneakers. It just never gets old. I have a closet full of them.”

Pointer never envisioned sticking around this long when he came aboard as Financial Manager, let alone being promoted to CFO in 2012 and then CEO five years later. When he joined, the chain included about 40 stores. It felt more like a start-up to Pointer, who had come from Ernst & Young and its 80,000 employees. “I thought I’d do it for a year or two,” he says. “Now I don’t know what would give me the same joy. It just never gets old.”

Not a bad career trajectory for a kid who grew up on a small North Carolina tobacco farm dreaming of not becoming a farmer. “It’s sun-up to sundown, six days a week. By the time you got done cutting the grass, you had to start over again,” Pointer says. He went to the University of North Carolina hoping it would be his ticket off the farm. It was, even though the farm hasn’t entirely left him. “There’s something peaceful about planting a crop, watching it grow, and harvesting,” he says, adding that it took him awhile to appreciate how well his father treated his employees. “It’s one of the reasons why I love Fleet Feet: We plant new stores and work hard to make them grow.” Pointer also credits his mother, a former extension agent who helped open a senior center in their local community, for influencing Fleet Feet. “She was selfless with her time and her energy, and I think that manifests in Fleet Feet. We sponsor many different community events.”

Closing in on his 20th anniversary with no plans to retire, Pointer has Fleet Feet running through his veins. It’s been an incredible, sometimes humbling journey, he says. From the day Sally Edwards and Elizabeth Jansen opened the first Fleet Feet Sports store in an old Victorian house in downtown Sacramento to today’s 300-store (and counting) nationwide chain, it’s a remarkable story. “We do more sales in August than we did in an entire year when I first arrived,” Pointer says. “I’ve been fortunate to be a part of this journey, and I think our best days are yet to come.” —G.D.

Joey Pointer

for a balanced and profitable business in that they remain connected to the local markets while possessing the scale and wherewithal to consider other markets.”

Matt Powell, an advisor with Spurwink River, says running specialty is a high-touch, high-service business—and that’s where Fleet Feet excels. “While ecommerce has a place in this segment, the web cannot deliver that experience, and Fleet Feet’s greatest attributes are that they operate welltrained local retail backed by world class back of house,” he says.

ROOM TO RUN

The pandemic proved to be a boon for outdoor activities. Running and walking were no exceptions. According to one industry study, about 50 million Americans (15 percent of the population) ran or jogged in 2022. Layer on Americans who walked and went on light hikes (sans boots), and the number soars to around 200 million. Add on the millions who want comfortable running shoes to help get them through their hectic days, and the total figure includes just about the entire U.S. population. It’s easy to see why Pointer sees a “golden era” of opportunity in the years ahead.

“Last year we served two-plus million customers in our stores and online, and our fastest-growing segment is people between the ages of 25 and 45,” Pointer says, citing a recent presentation by a CEO of one of Fleet Feet’s major footwear brands predicting that by 2026 more people in that age group will be running than ever before. Millions more consumers don’t have PRs in mind but might suffer from foot issues that can be addressed with a

proper fitting aided by Fleet Feet’s Fit ID scanners. That’s why Fleet Feet does a lot of medical outreach with doctors’ offices and medical groups that can recommend their stores to patients. The overriding message? Fleet Feet welcomes all paces, ages, and body types. “Some people are chasing their grandkids around the playground, which is a type of running, and they need great footwear,” Pointer says. “While we spend a lot of time talking about running, there’s a big halo that includes customers seeking pain relief and comfort.”

Fleet Feet’s welcome-all approach is reflected in its new ad campaign: The Reasons We Run. It features real customers and leans into the individual reasons they took their first steps to reinforce the power of running. “Our goal is to continue to inspire people to lead a more healthy and active lifestyle,” Pointer says. “We believe there are a lot more people ahead for us to continue to inspire and bring into our stores.” Indeed, Pointer is “bullish” about the chain’s growth potential. For starters, fitness never really goes out of style and running has proven to be recession resistant. “It’s a relatively simple and affordable activity where a great pair of shoes is all you need,” he says. “We see a lot of white space where we can continue to add more Fleet Feet locations across the country.”

Powell concurs. “Many running shop owners are at the end of their careers, so more acquisitions are in the cards,” he says. “At the same time, there are only 700 or so running shops in the U.S. There are many cities and towns that do not have a shop or are underrepresented.”

A contributing factor helping Fleet Feet expand is its franchise program, according to Jim Van

Dine, director of specialty sales for Birkenstock. “They really help foster the American Dream for many,” he says, adding that Pointer’s willingness to dream big is another factor. “The purchase of Jack Rabbit could turn out to be a real coup; they certainly picked up some good locations.”

Speaking of that, Pointer cites two recent franchise openings in Canton, GA, and The Villages, FL. “Both are new franchisees and off to really strong first-year sales,” he reports. “We’re also opening company-owned stores and existing franchises are expanding.” Pointer considers the multi-pronged expansion approach a strong asset of Fleet Feet. “Our growth will come from a lot of different directions, which has served us well over the years,” he says, noting that the plan is to open 20 stores this year. “I think there are a lot of specialty running store owners who’ve made it through the pandemic and are now looking for exit strategies.”

Fleet Feet’s deep faith in brick-and-mortar runs contrary to prevailing retail wisdom. But Pointer believes the in-store experience, particularly from a running specialty perspective, still outpaces the online one. “Customers can experience the latest and the greatest by actually trying on product,” he says. “They can get advice from our outfitters on why a particular shoe might work for them or get the latest nutrition info if they’re training for a marathon. They can also attend our events, whether it’s training programs or fun runs, and meet with like-minded individuals.”

That’s not to say Fleet Feet isn’t working hard to improve its digital shopping experience. Pointer says the company has greatly improved its digital footprint, mainly because organizations like Amazon have set a very high bar. “You can shop on your phone in the comfort of your house, and your shoes may arrive literally that afternoon,” he says. “Competition makes everyone better.” The goal, he notes, is to incorporate Fleet Feet’s in-store experience into online shopping as much as possible. An example is matching the millions of foot scans it has gathered with shoe purchases. “We can make better product recommendations,” Pointer says. “You might be an 11.5 in the Hoka Bondi, but in the Saucony Ride you’re a size 12.” He adds, “Everyone is talking about AI, and we have a form of that already through our scans and purchase history. We’re figuring out how to best service that in a digital fashion. You’ll see more of that as we complete 2023, bringing the brick-and-mortar experience to digital and vice-versa.”

Digital currently accounts for 15 percent of Fleet Feet’s overall sales. And while it’s growing at a faster pace than brick-and-mortar, Pointer points out

Customers of all paces, ages, and body types receive expert one-onone service.

that it’s easier to grow at a higher percentage when you’re dealing with smaller numbers. Regardless, he believes the two channels shouldn’t be seen as robbing each other; rather, they work in concert.

“When we open in new markets, our ecommerce expands because we increase brand awareness,” he explains. “Each feeds the other, and when the two are done thoughtfully together, that’s a powerful fly wheel that just spins faster and faster.”

LIGHTING THE WAY

Fleet Feet’s journey has many chapters yet to be written. And while the story remains essentially the same—to inspire people of all ages to stay active and healthy—it’s a constantly evolving pursuit that requires tireless persistence, much like longdistance running.

“I’ve always said that retail is not for the faint of heart,” Pointer says. “Like anything in life, you have to continue to adapt and advance, which we’ve been doing since 1976. We’re continually evolving our retail theater as a reason to come into our stores. The technology is the assist that makes our outfitters even better.”

What is Pointer most proud of in terms of Fleet Feet? Overall, it’s the journey. But if he had to pick a particular moment, it’s when the company introduced its new torch logo in 2018. “The logo is more digitally native and rooted in our vision and mission,” he explains. “The bottom of the torch is the spark to get people moving, while the top represents our mission: to empower anyone who runs and walks. It’s fanning the flames of commitment.”

The new logo reminds Pointer of Fleet Feet’s rich history and what’s to come—like the new loyalty program. The goal is to reinvent the concept and give customers a reason to engage with Fleet Feet at a deeper level. People at every level of the company as well as a handful of outside agencies are involved in the effort. “It’s our evolve, launch, refine, and repeat process, and I believe we’ll create a meaningful rewards program that’s more than just a spend and get,” Pointer says.

Fleet Feet’s long and winding journey continues. It’s already beyond Pointer’s wildest dreams. “When I started, there were maybe six employees in our corporate office, and we only had two rules then: You answered the phone by the second ring and you took your trash out because we didn’t have a cleaning service.” Pointer believes those rules are embedded in Fleet Feet’s DNA of local ownership and empowerment. “At some levels, we’re a completely different company, and at others we’re exactly the same,” he says. “Our people are still the secret sauce; we’re just a lot bigger.” •

Helping Hands

Fleet Feet CEO Joey Pointer give the lowdown on the challenges of staffing up.

Is it hard to find good help these days?

Like everyone, we’re struggling to be fully staffed at every level. Every day you have to recruit, from the corporate level down, to ensure that we have the right support team members to support our growth plans in stores and digitally. So, you go to a coffee shop and have a great experience...you’re just always recruiting at every level. The day you stop is the day you’re going to be in big trouble.

Does the fact that Fleet Feet is seeking a level of expertise spanning product, sports, nutrition, and local communities make staffing more difficult?

Absolutely. But we start with the basics and then provide a lot of training and education around leadership. One of our board members, who was COO of Golden Corral, once told me: “We don’t hire dishwashers; we hire future business owners.” That quote has always resonated with me, and I think we have the same philosophy. We don’t hire outfitters; we hire future business owners. They may not own a Fleet Feet store one day, but they’re going to go on to do something amazing in their lives. For example, about a month ago, we had 250 outfitters attend a virtual leadership training session, where in addition to

teaching the technical side of the business, it was about how to make them better leaders. What will be your legacy as an employee and an individual.

Is it easy to find these future business leaders?

I’d say it’s a lot easier than it was two years ago. Before the pandemic, we had a wide range of employees including people who were retired and wanted to work 20 hours a week and stayat-home parents who wanted something to do while their kids were in school. Those employee bases disappeared. Now that the pandemic has subsided, people aren’t as fearful. I don’t think manpower will be the obstacle to our growth.

Are Fleet Feet’s pay and benefits competitive? That’s a question for our employees, but I hope the answer is yes. We offer the complete package: competitive pay and benefits, a great work culture, the opportunity to serve the local community, and room for advancement within Fleet Feet as well as the industry. Coming out of school, there’s no better place to start than with Fleet Feet if you want to work in the running industry. We’ve had numerous employees who’ve gone on to serve at all levels. Another job perk: Our employees love the product and get to be first adopters.

Fleet Feet’s Fit ID scanners play a leading role in its retail theater.

SAY HI!

Fresh takes on the classic hoops silhouette have game.

Merrell

Ecco

Gabor

Rieker

Fly London

Zodiac

Empowering Footwear Retail Success

It didn’t take a pandemic to make the value of online marketplaces clear to the B2B fashion wholesale community on FashionGo – accessible via a website where retailers can procure new stock from virtually anywhere at any time. The number one B2B online fashion wholesale marketplace has linked retail buyers and wholesale sellers in a one-stop shop that has provided a virtual storefront and the ultimate productdiscovery hub for retailers since 2002, when it was founded by fashion wholesalers in Los Angeles.

But as online business took off amid lockdowns, FashionGo has become an even more vital procurement resource and e-commerce force throughout the fashion industry. About 1 million registered users access the site at fashiongo.net to buy over 3 million products from thousands of brands across 12 categories. These categories include women’s, men’s, and children’s apparel, along with accessories, home, beauty products—and footwear.

In fact, footwear is quickly becoming one of the platform’s key categories. “FashionGo’s numbers for footwear product listings and orders have each shot up by about 125 percent in the last several years,” according to Paul Lee, CEO of NHN Global, parent company of FashionGo. “Footwear is the number two mostasked-about category from FashionGo retail buyers. One of our bigger initiatives is continued strategic expansion into important categories where there is demand, and footwear is one of them.”

He likens FashionGo to physical trade events or other market settings where the fashion community gathers to make connections, discover new products, reach informed purchasing decisions, and execute transactions. “Except we’re online so we don’t have the restrictions of geography, business hours, or scheduled shows, offering greater accessibility,” he says. “B2B engagement and discovery is 24/7, creating more business opportunities during the year when markets are not held and at hours that are convenient for retail buyers, as we never close.”

FashionGo only requires retail buyers to submit their business documents once at sign-up to show proof of their retail business. Once approved, retail buyers do not need to submit business documentations to each and every brand in order to view products and place orders.

Signing up as a buyer on FashionGo is completely free and provides easy ways to discover new or favorite brands, find daily new arrivals and best sellers, and obtain data-driven purchasing tools to make informed purchase decisions.

“We’re a tech company that happens to be in fashion, not the other way around,” Lee says. “But we infuse that tech DNA with over 20 years of experience and expertise in wholesale fashion. We prioritize

bringing innovative tools and solutions that are most relevant and impactful to the B2B fashion community.”

Convenient tools include Style Match+, which enables reverse-image search capabilities across FashionGo’s millions of products. Simply upload an image of a specific shoe style and instantly find the exact or similar style on the platform.

Other solutions include Best of Best, a collection of the top-selling products on FashionGo that updates in real time. FashionGo Live is an engaging livestream shopping experience that’s broadcast each week for brands to highlight new arrivals, exclusive deals, or best sellers while allowing retail buyers to ask questions and shop products in real time. AI-based recommendations—old hat to FashionGo, Lee says—empower buyer discovery by showing products that are most relevant to them.

Convenience is also within FashionGo’s core, allowing orders across multiple brands to be processed at one checkout, shipped together, and tracked from a centralized location. (The platform handles both in-stock immediate items and preorders.)

FashionGo is also creating new business opportunities to footwear retailers through its own Dropshipping service, FashionGo Dropshipping, which is available to all registered buyers for free, giving them maximum merchandising leverage with minimal risk for inventory. Retailers can list any footwear product and when a sale is made on their own e-commerce store, FashionGo Dropshipping fulfills the order on the retailer’s behalf. FashionGo Dropshipping has been a natural progression for retailers to introduce new types of products and categories to their shoppers.

Lastly on security, FashionGo takes pride in its safe payments and antifraud measures by partnering with Stripe. Through Stripe, FashionGo is subjected to and abides by the most stringent payment compliance and does not hold sensitive financial information such as credit card data, giving confidence to buyers who make wholesale purchases on FashionGo.

“This year, our main initiative is strategic expansion through different product categories including footwear, accessories, home, and more,” Lee says. “Through this expansion, our goal is to open up new business opportunities for both wholesale brands and retail buyers with more new products to shop and sell. He also sees FashionGo’s success as a shared benefit: “We want to continue providing retail buyers with valuable experiences and tangible solutions that alleviate pain points in their procurement process, and provide more analytical tools that allow retailers to make the best possible merchandising and business decisions.”

Long a leading online force for apparel brands and retailers, FashionGo is making a big move into footwear.

Discover new footwear arrivals daily and real-time best sellers with FashionGo.

PLAY BALL!

Forty-plus years into the game, Glen Barad, president of Taos Footwear, reflects on always playing a hard-nosed style.

DEAR GLEN, You’re 60 years old now and looking more like your Dad every day. He was a very nice man but struggled to make a living. Still, he found a way to send you to camp where you discover you’re good at sports. You excel at handball, Carroms, basketball, football, dodgeball, capture the flag, and, your true love, baseball. You are usually picked first, even though you aren’t all that big and strong. Somehow, though, you always find a way to compete with the big boys. Perhaps it’s your hard-knock life, growing up “south of the tracks” in Beverly Hills, that makes you so determined to succeed? You practice all the time. You just play and play and play.

Little League is no different. Just ok at first and quite nervous before games, you practice every chance you get. One summer, you attend a clinic twice a week. You start swinging the bat 100 times a day. You also throw the ball in the air and catch it repeatedly while you walk up and down your neighborhood streets. The practice pays off. You become fast, throw hard, and hit well. You play shortstop for your high school team and go on to play fall ball for the University of California at San Diego. The following year, you transfer to California State University, Northridge. To help cover expenses, you help a fraternity brother sell work boots at area swap meets, earning $25 a day plus a burrito and a drink. Little do you know, this is your entry into a lifelong career in the shoe business.

As the baseball gods will have it, your former Little League coach is Jack Silvera, cofounder of Dynasty Footwear. The entrepreneur in you asks to sell his shoes at swap meets. You then go on to work as a stock boy at Nordstrom until, a year later, you dislocate your shoulder playing softball and go on leave. That’s when Silvera pitches you an entry-level position: sweeping floors, shipping samples, and doing anything that needs to be done. A few years into the gig, it leads to line building, product development, and traveling overseas for sourcing. It is an unbelievable experience. You learn about sales, product development, costing, and building relationships with agents and factories. You earn your MBA in footwear.

After 16 years at Dynasty, you strike out on your own, launching Direct Sourcing Associates. But it isn’t long until you realize that no matter how great your private label designs are or how attractive the price, customers want it for less. Tired of stripping away details, you cross into the branded business with the launch of Taos Footwear in 2005. Your approach is the same hard-nosed mindset. How else will

you compete against big companies led by even bigger personalities? The only way to make a name for yourself in this cutthroat business is by playing aggressive! Becoming a meaningful consumer brand, however, doesn’t happen overnight. It requires years of hard work, perseverance, talent, investment, controlled growth, and developing trusted retail partnerships. There are no shortcuts.

I’m pleased to report that your dedication pays off. Taos steadily grows into a cornerstone comfort brand. Your product-first approach serves as a guiding light. No detail is too small. In addition, your overall design ethos of wearable fashion as opposed to chasing fads makes Taos a go-to brand for retailers and consumers. It stems from your four decades of being a student of shoes. And while you no longer wake at 4 a.m. on Sundays to go to swap meets, or shop stores until they close after a full day of work, those decades of study give you a sixth sense for hitting on trends. You’re helped by the fact that the entire Taos team consists of great merchants. They’re all heavy hitters.

Be forewarned, though, the shoe business, like competitive sports, is a grind. The long hours, the endless travel, and relentless competition takes a toll. Over the past decade, you’ve endured six spinal surgeries, received a new right hip, and undergone multiple shoulder operations. Take heed: You can avoid much of this suffering if you follow some simple advice. 1. Don’t try to do it all yourself. Let your talented teammates pitch in. 2. Go on actual vacations, don’t just to shop for trends and visit factories. 3. Watch a movie without thinking about work. 4. Spend time with family and friends. Do everything and anything, just do it together. 5. It’s ok to ask for help. If you get help with a weakness, it can become a strength.

Despite the wear-and tear on your body, you still got game. Recently, your bocce ball team won the Sunset League spring championship and, after a four-year softball hiatus, you hit the field with your old team, The Boy Chicks. The first at bat you smack a line drive up the middle for a single. It feels so good! You also make a diving catch in the outfield. Just know this will be your last game if you don’t heed that advice.

On that note, here’s some more advice: Enjoy the journey, even though there are bumps along the way. You learn from the bumps. Also, build a strong team to enjoy the journey together. You’ll win some and lose some. Just savor playing. And if that day ever comes when you’re no longer able to play the shoe game or baseball, there’s always bocce ball.

Beverly Hills High School shortstop Glen Barad strikes a Topps-worthy pose (circa 1980).

THE HEIGHTS

Marking its 100th anniversary, Lowa Boots General Manager Peter Sachs reflects on the brand’s many high points and sets his sights on the rising trail ahead.

By Greg Dutter

“The people who’ve owned and managed the brand have always had a very consistent business plan,” Sachs says, praising the founding Wagner family followed in 1993 by the Zanata family for their even-keel approach. “That plan has always been: Let’s make our product in Europe, using the best-quality materials and state-of-the-art constructions, and sell consistently at full price and not be discounting every day.”

WHEN IT COMES to Lowa Boots, no one is a more dedicated student of the brand—and the market it serves—than General Manager Peter Sachs. That’s because Sachs has spent his entire 47-year career working in the outdoor sports industry and the past 27 years at the helm of Lowa Boots. In fact, he is employee No. 1 of the German brand’s Greenwich, CT-based U.S. outpost and largely responsible for guiding Lowa on its path to becoming a specialty market leader here. It’s been a steady climb, one that has enabled Lowa to get acclimated at each new level before ascending to the next. Sachs has always held the brand’s long-term health top of mind. There have been no detours off the trail with misguided category extensions or chasing shortterm sales bumps at the expense of more stable, longer-term growth. Indeed, the key to Lowa’s longevity is consistency in its product, people, and passion for the outdoors.

The consistency, Sachs says, has enabled Lowa to capitalize on great years and weather downturns, avoiding huge roller coaster rides. “Even in 2020 when everybody took a hit, it wasn’t a big hit for us because of our consistent business plan,” he says, noting that the following two years saw healthy growth. “We had about a 30 percent increase in sales in 2021 and maintained it in 2022, and if we can get our inventory under control, we’ll end up with an increase in the mid- to high-single digits this year.”

Looking out five years, Sachs says the goal is to grow the business by at least 50 percent. He’s quite “bullish” on reaching that number, thanks to a growing overall outdoor category, market share gains, and new product introductions. These include the brand’s entry into the trail running category and its new tactical boot, the Zephyr MK2, this year, followed by the latest update to its No. 1-selling Renegade boot next year. “Having a really stable business gives us the platform to keep bringing new products to market, and that gives us opportunities to open some doors as well as to sell more pairs within existing shelf space, all of which adds up,” he says.

Sachs knows full well that another owner could have charted a far different path for Lowa. “A venture capital firm or public company could have set expectations that might have been achievable one year, but then the economy could have gone south, or there would have been an interruption, like the pandemic or a war like in Ukraine, and it would no longer have been sustainable,” he explains. “Suddenly, the business plan would have been put on the shelf and we’d have needed to make those numbers, so maybe we’d have cut prices so we could sell X amount more units…and then it becomes a roller coaster. We work hard to avoid those ups and downs, which I think is rare in this business.”

Another rarity is sticking to select retail channels and, more notably, standing by individual accounts, regardless of their order sizes. “We haven’t cut off that specialty dealer who may only buy 40 to 50 pairs a year,” Sachs says. “We’ve stayed true to those dealers through good years and bad years.”

Outdoor Sports Center in Wilton, CT, is one such longtime Lowa dealer. Arlo Tarr, footwear buyer for the past 11 years, says the relationship stretches back well before his time. “I’m guessing it’s 30 years or maybe longer,” he says. “And I worked at Diamond Brand Outdoors in North Carolina prior, and it was the same there.” Tarr credits Lowa’s “phenomenal” quality for its longevity. “Their boots break in the easiest,” he says, citing the Renegade as its bestseller for years. “Renegades are never returned for warranty or fit issues, and Lowa makes them in narrows and widths and doesn’t change them often, which customers love. They come back and say, ‘Hey Arlo, I’m ready for another size 10’ and

boom, done.” Tarr adds, “Our customers know that if you buy Lowa, you’re getting the best of the best in hiking footwear.”

Jeff Langner, CEO of Morgan Shoes in Madison, WI, concurs on Lowa’s unsurpassed quality, having stocked the brand for 24 years. As a certified pedorthist, he loves recommending Lowa, particularly the Renegade and Innox light hiker, to customers. “They’re good for you!” he says, noting that the excellent grip soles are ideal for the area’s slippery winter conditions. “Plus, their use of PU vs. (EVA): One feels good today, the other feels great for years.” Langner describes the Innox hiker as a “great walking shoe” and a step up from other brands. “The rocker bottoms work to easily move forward with little effort and offer control vs. squishier options,” he says. “And they last longer, are waterproof, and made in Europe, where they’ve been making great shoes for 100 years.”

Count REI and Zappos as two more longtime, loyal Lowa accounts. Tad Summersett, REI’s merchandise manager for footwear, says the co-op has carried the brand for decades. “The foundation of our relationship is built on mutual respect for quality and customers,” he says. “Lowa consistently provides REI members with premium

quality product that can be trusted to last for many adventures. It’s a part of their DNA and shows up in all the products they build.”

Bill Johnson, senior outdoor footwear buyer for Zappos, says the site has carried Lowa since 2006. Perennial best-selling styles include the men’s Renegade GTX Mid in sepia and the women’s version in stone, as well as the Zephyr Desert Mid tactical boot in stone. “Lowa attracts the core outdoor enthusiast who has a passion for the backcountry,” he says, adding the keys to the brand’s longevity are “outstanding quality, fit consistency, and a dedication to exceeding the consumer’s needs.”

STAYING THE COURSE

It’s not like Sachs hasn’t had opportunities to land juicy orders from beyond the specialty sphere. Some, he confesses, have been quite tempting. “You look and say, ‘Oh my God, they have X number of storefronts and sell X number of units…let’s make that happen.’ But the reality is we might hit those numbers for a year or two and then, when outdoor isn’t hot as a category, they’ll move on to the next big thing and we’ll be left at the curb and won’t be able to go back to the retailers we will have lost.”

Sachs adds, “Our goal is to be here the next 10, 15,

and 100 years. It’s better to have that stable business instead of that roller coaster ride.”

Sachs walks the walk. Mid last decade he added Amazon to its account base only to walk away from the business about two years later, in 2017. That’s despite Amazon amounting to about 10 percent of Lowa’s overall sales at the time. Why?

“We found that Lowa was on sale somewhere all the time,” he says. “It wasn’t worth having our other dealers calling me all the time saying they had to price match what they saw on sale on Amazon. So we cut them and told all of our dealers to stop selling on Marketplace, too.”

It wasn’t an easy decision to forego a sizeable chunk of existing sales. Amazon even flew a team of buyers to Greenwich in an effort to maintain the partnership. “It’s a big number, and our owners were a little nervous that I was walking away from that business,” Sachs admits. “But we had that percentage back within eight or nine months. More importantly, it just brought peace back under our roof, and there had been no peace for a while.”

Again, the overriding concern behind this decision was Lowa’s long-term health. “I just knew that the day would come if we’d kept selling Amazon that they’d become such a big part of our business that one day I’d basically find Jeff Bezos sitting on our doorstep offering $1 for our company because if Amazon were to stop doing business with us, our company would be only worth $1,” Sachs says. He refused to let Lowa succumb to such a fate. In fact, Lowa’s U.S. sales have more than doubled since the divorce.

Was this the best business decision of Sachs’ career? It ranks near the top—along with his decision to exhibit at the Shot Show about 18 years ago. That’s where Sachs got Lowa into the tactical boots channel, which now accounts for 20 percent of total sales. As Sachs recalls, the Shot Show was held at the same time as the ski show in Las Vegas, so he decided to take a look. “It hit me right away that everyone there—be it military, law enforcement, or hunters—all wore boots,” he says. “I thought, we’ve got to be here. The next year we had a 10x10 booth in the last row of the convention center, which was in Orlando.”

Tactical has been a steady, reliable growth

100TH ANNIVERSARY Lowa Boots

The Amplux from the new ATR Collection marks Lowa’s entrance into the trail running category.

The Long and Winding Trail

When Peter Sachs landed a job at the Ski & Sport House in his native Cleveland at age 16, he never dreamed that it would lead to a lifelong career in the outdoor industry. “My first task was to put baskets on rental ski poles, and somehow I’ve stuck with it ever since,” he says. “It’s the only industry that I’ve ever worked in.”

Sachs went on to open an Erehorn Mountain Outfitter store in Chicago before crossing into wholesale with Raichle Molitor where he quickly shifted from ski bindings to hiking boots. Then, 27 years ago, came the opportunity to expand Lowa Boots in the U.S. At the time, the brand was distributed by Climb High in Burlington, VT, as an add-on to its climbing ropes, crampons, ice axes, and the like. While Lowa’s owners didn’t know how big the business could become in the States, they were confident it could extend beyond a couple of mountaineering boots. They also knew that growth would have to come elsewhere because the brand had already maximized sales in the German, Swiss, and Austrian markets.

“I started out by bringing in some backpacking and hiking boots, and the first year our sales were about $1 million. The next year they were $2 million,” Sachs recalls. “We’ve had a nice sales trajectory where we’ve just come back day after day, season after season, and year after year.”

Never did Sachs envision being at the helm of Lowa decades later, but he’s thankful to find himself there. “It’s been a great journey,” he says. “I tell people all the time: I don’t feed the hungry and I don’t cure disease, but I provide shoes for people to go out on Saturday afternoons for a nice walk in the woods. These are fun activities that they love, and that’s what makes it fun for me even if I might be having a tough day.”

Indeed, Sachs still loves his job—the market, the product, and especially the people. “My

employees are great; I have four in our office who’ve been with me for about 25 years, warehouse people who’ve been with me for upwards of 15 years, and we have reps who’ve been with us a long time, as well,” he says. “And when we meet with our retailers, it’s as much about how their kids are doing as it’s whether a certain shoe sold well. We’ve been in the business together for so long that it’s meeting with friends as much as it is work. That really keeps me going every day.”

On those rare occasions when a dealer might call with an issue about a product or a shipment, Sachs lets them vent but never issues ultimatums in return. The approach is to always “solve a solvable problem,” he says. “We have our challenges, but we always find solutions.”

Navigating through the pandemic was no different. For retailers who canceled orders, Sachs’ team said no problem. “We’ve done business with some of them for 20 years and said to call us when they were ready,” he says. “We didn’t put anyone in collection who said they couldn’t pay their bills, nor did we penalize anyone’s discount if they refused a shipment.” Sachs could commiserate as Lowa’s doors were closed, too. His understanding paid off. “We were paid in-full by every dealer by Labor Day of 2020. I look back at it as the speediest recovery from a bad payment situation that we’ve ever had.”

Sachs doesn’t have a motto, but if he had to pick one, it would be the Golden Rule. “Treat people with respect and dignity,” he says. He often relays that advice to his sales reps and customer service department when they get frustrated. “I tell them that it’s their money. You have to respect that and to treat people with respect.” Sachs believes Lowa’s success is about more than the quality of its shoes. “It’s the people who carry our brand year after year.” —G.D.

HITTING THE TRAIL RUNNING

Lowa doesn’t enter new categories willy-nilly. Its design team takes a methodical approach that can be years in the making. The entrance into trail running with its All Terrain Running (ATR) collection this year is no exception. While that might seem like a relatively small leap for an outdoor brand, Sachs says Lowa is determined to offer unique product that performs at the high levels its customers expect. Hence, the three-year effort leading up to the June debut of ATR.

Specifically, Lowa incorporated performance attributes found in its boots into ATR without adding bulk. “Our lighter, multi-density EVA midsoles are much like the multi-density PU that we use in almost everything else,” Sachs explains. “Then there’s our rebound plate, which is not too dissimilar to the stabilizer that we put into a lot of our boots, plus we’ve added toe and heel protection, and a lighter version PU wrap that we feature in our mountaineering boots adds durability, support, and stability in the uppers.”

category ever since. “It’s become a great business,” Sachs reports. “We opened dealers during that first show that are still customers today.” He adds that while outdoor and tactical are separate businesses, some products cross over, albeit with slight modifications that cater to unique needs. “We’ve made some outdoor boots in black or coyote

and changed the hooks to closed eyelets because uniform customers don’t want it to snag on their gear,” he explains. “We’ve also certified boots to be slip- and chemical-resistant to enable them to best perform their jobs. As always, our goal is to pay attention to the details in order to make the best quality products that we can.”

The decision to enter the trail running market is also a reflection of the times. “We believe a lot of our customers, or potential customers, are trail running,” Sachs says. “And if they aren’t trail running, they’re wearing a lighter weight shoe for their daily activities, light hikes, and walks.”

Still, there are risks involved. For starters, the collection marks Lowa’s first Asia-based (Vietnam) production as well as its first use of EVA. “PU lasts

Peter Sachs looks back on an outdoor career that he wouldn’t trade for anything .

From top: Renegade hiker, first introduced in 1997, remains a perennial best seller; Urbano sport sandal features a PU midsole for long-lasting comfort and support; new and improved Zephyr MK2 Hi tactical boot.

Peter Sachs

five to seven times as long and is more sustainable, but you need the softness and rebound ability of EVA for a running shoe,” he says. Sachs believes the risks are worth it because the category should attract new and younger consumers to the brand and open new doors. “It gives us price points that aren’t achievable from our European production and an opportunity to be on the wall at a more entry level,” he says. “We showed it to a select group of accounts at The Running Event last November and received orders from about 30. We’re excited about the reception.”

Sachs foresees plenty of growth potential in the running specialty tier. “Maybe it’s 100 to 150 storefronts, and they don’t have to buy hundreds of pairs each to give us good growth,” he says. “Maybe they’ll buy an outdoor or walking shoe from us as well, because they already have that customer. So, we’re pretty optimistic about the future.”

The goal, however, isn’t to become the next Hoka, Nike, or Adidas, according to Sachs. There are no plans to open large sporting goods dealers or department stores. The plan is to stay in the specialty outdoor, uniform, and now running channels. “There are lots of opportunities there,” he says. In fact, Sachs doesn’t think Lowa will even be up against the major athletic brands any more than it’s up against Merrell in outdoor. “We look to compete against specialty brands, like Scarpa

and Altra, in the trail space,” he says. That said, he welcomes mainstream athletic brands into the trail running category. Their collective marketing muscle only makes the category more popular, he says. “Nike has a far greater marketing reach than Lowa ever could. When the tide rises, all the boats in the harbor rise.”

That has proven true in the outdoor market since the pandemic. The category has enjoyed a spike in growth as more people sought the mental and physical rewards of spending time in nature.

“Pretty much everybody went for a walk in their local park, or they went to their state park, or a national park,” Sachs says. “Even if they haven’t been hiking, many have been biking, camping, paddling, etc. We’re excited about that because we’re much more likely to get them as a customer than if they’re at home playing computer games. What’s more, a lot of people have kept up with their outdoor activities.” Sachs’ observations are corroborated by the 2023 Outdoor Industry Association study that states overall participation rates grew for the eighth straight year, totaling 168.1 million, or 55 percent of the U.S. population ages six and older. It marks a 14.5 million increase since January 2020.

This customer ranges from weekend warriors to those taking outdoor-oriented vacations involving camping, staying in a cabin, or living the van life. “They’re also active in local trail crews, birding

and hiking clubs, and scout groups,” Sachs reports. “They’re just outdoor active, and many tell us this is their second pair of Renegades or Caminos for their cabin, so they don’t have to lug them back and forth.” Another growing customer segment is section hikers, who tackle portions of long trails, like the Appalachian and the Pacific Crest. “They’ll take four or five days to hike 50 to 100 miles increments,” he says. “Teachers and retirees make up a lot of this customer base because they have the time to do those kinds of seasonal trips.”

Sachs has also witnessed a surge in outdoor enthusiasts at his local, 350-acre park. “You can’t get a parking space on weekends. I bike a lot too, and I’ve never seen the roads as busy as they are today,” he says. “If they’re hiking, biking, or just walking their dog, it’s to our benefit.” Remote work has also contributed to the category’s success. “Even some Wall Street firms no longer require suits in the office five days a week. It’s a button-down shirt, khakis, and casual shoes,” Sachs says. “The outdoor pie has grown, and we’ve all grown with it with a couple of really good years.”

THE TRAIL AHEAD

For the remainder of this year, Lowa’s primary focus is on celebrating its 100th anniversary. That includes social media to tell the brand story and introducing consumers to its athlete ambas- >39

GREEN DAYS

Soothing shades make for subtle sneaker statements.

Gola

Merrell

Ecco

Birkenstock

Serving up fresh spins on a tried-and-true summer silhouette.

Taft

Maximum EVA sole joggers with built-in arch support by Aetrex

Bos. & Co. platform tennie with perforated details. Opposite page: chunky sole suede sneaker by Geox

Clockwise from top: Zodiac almond toe sneaker with sawtooth sole; walking shoe featuring two-way flex Gruuv sole by Ecco; flatform tennie by Gabor Opposite page: Clarks crepe sole platform sneakers.

NeroGiardini platform lace-up. Opposite page: mixed materials joggers by M.Gemi x Run Of.

Waterproof nylon sneakers by Cougar

Fashion

Remonte platform tennies with zipper closure. Opposite page: Max sole slip-on by Dearfoams

editor: Kathleen O’Reilly; model: Alexandra Van Zant/Q Model Mgmt.; hair and makeup: Nevio Ragazzini/Next Artists; digital tech: Chris Wert; styling assistant: Eileen Viglietta; production assistant: Olivia Mannarino.

Answering the Call C

Telephone repairman turned designer Chris Donovan dials up unique style. By Greg Dutter

HRIS DONOVAN HAD a burning desire to design footwear long before starting his 25-plus years of work as a telephone repairman. But it took a cancer scare— and encouragement from his spouse— for him to finally make the high-wire leap to do what he loves for a living.

“I’ve had this design passion since high school, but it never seemed like a possible career for me, so I worked at the phone company,” Donovan says. To be specific, the Massachusetts native was sitting in humanities class during his junior year when a fellow student strutted in wearing sky-high platforms. This was the’70s, and the style was just coming into vogue. “They were the tallest, most outrageous shoes,” Donovan recalls. “I was fascinated. How is she walking in them, and how can an article of clothing be a piece of art?”

He immediately set about trying to capture what he saw with a sketch in the margins of his notebook. “It was like someone set a fire in my head: If you can do this, then what else can you do with shoes,” he says. “Within days, my notebook was filling up with sketches—pushing all my humanities notes out! The flood gates had opened ”

Thoughts of a design career, though, were put on hold—literally. First, Donovan hid his sketches, shielding himself from teasing classmates. His hobby remained secret during his years at Assumption College, where he earned a Religious Studies degree, and it stayed that way even after he landed the dependable telephone repairman gig. Donovan climbed ladders and crawled across floors, running wire and fiber optics. But he never stopped sketching shoes. “I never felt fulfilled in that job,” he says.

Finally, he took his spouse’s advice to do what made him happiest. “After my cancer diagnosis, which was thankfully caught early, I realized how short life could be and that I needed to realize my dreams.”

But before Donovan’s dream fulfillment phase—which includes receiving this year’s Fashion Group Intl. Rising Star award—there were obstacles to overcome. He submitted his sketches to the Polimoda Fashion School in Florence, Italy, and got accepted. But the Italian consulate said he was too old for a student visa. After he visited five times to plead his case, they relented. Next came the challenge of trying to fit in at the school. He had no design background aside from a few night courses, and “I didn’t look like the other students. I was mistaken as the janitor,” he says. “It was difficult to catch up with them, though I’m proud to say that I graduated top of my class ”

Armed with a master’s degree in footwear design, Donovan had to overcome more hurdles to break into the industry. Again, age was a sticking point. “My school had advised me that it might be difficult finding work at my age, and they were right,” he says. “But I was determined for the world to see my designs,

so I started my own line [at age 55] in October of 2019.”

Learning how to work as a designer was no easy feat. It was nothing like Donovan’s past experience. “In my previous job, I went to work at the same time every day, running through routines and repairs, and knowing them like the back of my hand,” he explains. “Now everything—absolutely everything—is new.” He works harder and longer than ever, but he finds it fun, fulfilling, and purposeful. “I’m exhausted at the end of every day, but I feel very accomplished.”

And Donovan’s atypical background gives him an uncommon perspective. “Since I sketched for so many years on my own, drawing inspiration from my surroundings and not paying attention to the fashion industry, I’ve developed a unique voice,” he says. “I’m an outsider to fashion and see what I do as wearable art and sculpture. I’m always ready to try new things.”

This approach has translated to an overall label aesthetic that’s “contemporary, infused with art, geometry, and unexpected influences.” It combines those elements into new classics that are functional and comfortable, Donovan explains. “Working with wiring, cables, electronics, and fiber optics left a lasting impression on me and provides a wealth of inspiration that I still draw on,” he says, citing shapes, folds, and sculptural heels as signature design elements. “I use texture and materials to add style and highlight the sculptural quality of the design. I like creating powerful designs that reflect the confidence and strength of the wearer.”

Who is the Chris Donovan customer? She’s a strong, confident, proud woman who dresses for herself. She doesn’t have to fit in, is comfortable standing out, and, most importantly, is looking for a design that not everyone is wearing.

What are some key aspects of your Spring ’24 collection? Sleek, minimal, aerodynamic shapes. Traditional styles but with a definite twist. It’s a continuation of last season’s inspiration of paper airplanes. I’m using simple area dynamic folds to create a sleek, modern contemporary feel.

Chris Donovan

How’s business? Things are going great. We’re working with a new business consultant who’s helped move us forward, and our PR firm has been very busy getting our designs featured in publications and on the red carpet. We’ve also seen an increase in traffic on our ecommerce site.

What is your retail distribution strategy? In addition to our beautiful new ecommerce site and selling to select boutiques and pop-up shops, we’re looking to upcoming trade shows to attract new customers. We’re also interested in brand partnerships and collaborations, which can help cross promote to a new customer base. Another major goal this year is to increase brand awareness. We are implementing marketing and advertising to a wider customer base using social media platforms, partnering with celebrities and influencers, and securing media coverage to increase brand recognition. Over the next three years, we envision being sold in luxury stores around the world as well as having opened a flagship store.

What’s the best design advice you’ve ever received? When I arrived in Florence, I tried very hard to fit in, and the first piece of advice came from one of my teachers. After looking at what I was working on, she said that it was awful and that I was trying to do fashion, but I wasn’t fashion. After inquiring what I had done previously, she said, ‘You’re crude! Do crude!’ She meant to be myself and do what I know. She was right. As soon as I did that, my designs started changing and the faculty fell in love with what I did.

Who are designers you admire? Two of my earliest heroes in the shoe world are René van den Berg and Peter Popps. Their work blows my mind. They create designs that no one else is doing, and both were big supporters of me early on.

Aerodynamic shapes serve as the calling card of Chris Donovan.

What does your Rising Star award mean to you? It’s validation. I always knew I saw shoe design a bit differently, but after making a massive change in my life without knowing if people would like what I do, winning this award has made me realize that I made the right move.

Are there times in the day now where you just pinch yourself? Oh my God, yes! It seems just yesterday I was climbing ladders and crawling across floors, and now I’m seeing my shoes worn by celebrities. Sometimes it feels as though my heart is going to burst.

What do you love most about designing shoes? Sketching. My mind runs with ideas like it’s on fire, and every idea creates 10 more. My consultants in Italy say I design like a machine gun. I get extremely focused into my own world with shapes morphing and converging in my head. There are times during the day when I might see a building, a plant, or a bird that sparks an image that I then rush to sketch on anything handy. I also love seeing someone wearing my designs. It brings them to life. There’s nothing like the feeling I get when a woman picks up one of my shoes and gasps.

continued from page 23

sadors. Lowa has also amped up in-store marketing with 100th anniversary POS materials and “tons of schwag” for staff. “We have to remember that store employees are the silent partner in the whole deal,” Sachs says. “They’re the guys and gals who really make it happen, and we have to make sure that they get a little love.”

Similarly, Lowa is giving back extra this year to the many outdoor causes it has long supported. That includes donating a bigger percentage of its website sales to non-profits like Big City Mountaineers, Cornell Lab of Ornithology, American Hiking Society, and Appalachian Mountain Club. Lowa is also taking over a Bavarian mountain town this September, inviting select retailers and consumers to try the latest styles and attend classes run by its ambassadors.

The fact is that milestones of this magnitude are rare, especially when taking into account the disruptions that have happened in the past 100 years. A centennial should be celebrated, and Lowa plans to make the most of it. “We’re proud to have survived wars, recessions, weather events, pandemics… you name it,” Sachs says. “It really is an incredible accomplishment.” Sachs singles out Lowa’s people, the caretakers, for guiding the brand through the many challenges. He’s proud to be one of those caretakers. It’s a responsibility he doesn’t take lightly. “I’m an arbiter on whether our product and messaging are right. Does it properly reflect our brand, or did we go off-trail? Do our athlete ambassadors reflect Lowa values, or are they just some hotshots who climb really well?”

In the case of Lowa ambassador Carlos Buhler, the brand fit is perfect. The expert climber—one with several Himalayan first ascents under his belt—stopped climbing recently in order to focus on the needs of others. Seeing climbing as a luxury in a time of war, Buhler went to work in soup kitchens along the Polish border to help feed Ukrainian refugees. He met a heart surgeon there and has since been reaching out to doctors in the U.S. to send medical equipment to Ukraine. Sachs has offered Lowa’s warehouse as a transit point for those shipments free of charge. “I’m fortunate to deal with people who have a lot of character,” Sachs says. “I think Carlos’ actions reflect those of our brand.”

Sachs has earned equal praise within the outdoor industry. Zappos’ Johnson says the first word that comes to mind when thinking of Sachs is trust. “Peter has built our relationship through open communication, acting reliably, sharing common goals, and fostering a sense of collaboration and respect,” he says. “He consistently demonstrates integrity with confidentiality and navigates challenges with us, laying the foundation for long-term success and mutual growth.” On a personal level, Johnson describes Sachs as a mentor. “He’s a knowledgeable resource who has helped me grow over our 17-year partnership,” he says. Tarr of Outdoor Sports Center concurs on Sachs’ solid mentoring skills. “He gives great advice on growing our business. I trust his insight,” he says, noting Sachs is a frequent visitor to the store. “I love talking about the outdoor industry with him. He’s always on the pulse of what’s happening.”

To that end, Sachs says Lowa’s main focus is on the trail ahead, be it launching new products or finding fresh ways to support the industry. “It’s really just as important as the past 100 years to say to our retailers and consumers that our goal is to be here for the next 100 years.” •

Lowa athlete ambassador Carlos Buhler is collecting medical equipment for Ukraine.

Retro Vibes

Take it easy in casual kicks that hark back to endless summers.

Clarks

Vagabond

Remonte