Answering the Call

CHRIS DONOVAN HAD a burning desire to design footwear long before starting his 25-plus years of work as a telephone repairman. But it took a cancer scare—and encouragement from his wife—for him to finally make the high-wire leap to do what he loves for a living.

“I’ve had this design passion since high school, but it never seemed like a possible career for me, so I worked at the phone company,” Donovan says. To be specific, the Massachusetts native was sitting in humanities class during his junior year when a fellow student strutted in wearing sky-high platforms. This was the’70s, and the style was just coming into vogue. “They were the tallest, most outrageous shoes,” Donovan recalls. “I was fascinated. How is she walking in them, and how can an article of clothing be a piece of art?”

He immediately set about trying to capture what he saw with a sketch in the margins of his notebook. “It was like someone set a fire in my head: If you can do this, then what else can you do with shoes,” he says. “Within days, my notebook was filling up with sketches—pushing all my humanities notes out! The flood gates had opened.”

Thoughts of a design career, though, were put on hold—literally. First, Donovan hid his sketches, shielding himself from teasing classmates. His hobby remained secret during his years at Assumption College, where he earned a Religious Studies degree, and it stayed that way even after he landed the dependable telephone repairman gig. Donovan climbed ladders and crawled across floors, running wire and fiber optics. But he never stopped sketching shoes. “I never felt fulfilled in that job,” he says.

Finally, he took his wife’s advice to do what made him happiest. “After my cancer diagnosis, which was thankfully caught early, I realized how short life could be and that I needed to realize my dreams.”

But before Donovan’s dream fulfillment phase—which includes receiving this year’s Fashion Group Intl. Rising Star award—there were obstacles to overcome. He submitted his sketches to the Polimoda Fashion School in Florence, Italy, and got accepted. But the Italian consulate said he was too old for a student visa. After he visited five times to plead his case, they relented. Next came the challenge of trying to fit in at the school. He had no design background aside from a few night courses, and “I didn’t look like the other students. I was mistaken as the janitor,” he says. “It was difficult to catch up with them, though I’m proud to say that I graduated top of my class.”

Armed with a master’s degree in footwear design, Donovan had to overcome more hurdles to break into the industry. Again, age was a sticking point. “My school had advised me that it might be difficult finding work at my age, and they were right,” he says. “But I was determined for the world to see my designs, so I started my own line [at age 55] in October of 2019.”

Learning how to work as a designer was no easy feat. It was nothing like Donovan’s past experience. “In my previous job, I went to work at the same time every day, running through routines and repairs, and knowing them like the back of my hand,” he explains. “Now everything—absolutely everything—is new.” He works harder and longer than ever, but he finds it fun, fulfilling, and purposeful. “I’m exhausted at the end of every day, but I feel very accomplished.”

And Donovan’s atypical background gives him an uncommon perspective. “Since I sketched for so many years on my own, drawing inspiration from my surroundings and not paying attention to the fashion industry, I’ve developed a unique voice,” he says. “I’m an outsider to fashion and see what I do as wearable art and sculpture. I’m always ready to try new things.”

This approach has translated to an overall label aesthetic that’s “contemporary, infused with art, geometry, and unexpected influences.” It combines those elements into new classics that are functional and comfortable, Donovan explains. “Working with wiring, cables, electronics, and fiber optics left a lasting impression on me and provides a wealth of inspiration that I still draw on,” he says, citing shapes, folds, and sculptural heels as signature design elements. “I use texture and materials to add style and highlight the sculptural quality of the design. I like creating powerful designs that reflect the confidence and strength of the wearer.” continued from page 23 sadors. Lowa has also amped up in-store marketing with 100th anniversary POS materials and “tons of schwag” for staff. “We have to remember that store employees are the silent partner in the whole deal,” Sachs says. “They’re the guys and gals who really make it happen, and we have to make sure that they get a little love.”

Who is the Chris Donovan customer? She’s a strong, confident, proud woman who dresses for herself. She doesn’t have to fit in, is comfortable standing out, and, most importantly, is looking for a design that not everyone is wearing.

What are some key aspects of your Spring ’24 collection? Sleek, minimal, aerodynamic shapes. Traditional styles but with a definite twist. It’s a continuation of last season’s inspiration of paper airplanes. I’m using simple area dynamic folds to create a sleek, modern contemporary feel.

How’s business? Things are going great. We’re working with a new business consultant who’s helped move us forward, and our PR firm has been very busy getting our designs featured in publications and on the red carpet. We’ve also seen an increase in traffic on our ecommerce site.

What is your retail distribution strategy? In addition to our beautiful new ecommerce site and selling to select boutiques and pop-up shops, we’re looking to upcoming trade shows to attract new customers. We’re also interested in brand partnerships and collaborations, which can help cross promote to a new customer base. Another major goal this year is to increase brand awareness. We are implementing marketing and advertising to a wider customer base using social media platforms, partnering with celebrities and influencers, and securing media coverage to increase brand recognition. Over the next three years, we envision being sold in luxury stores around the world as well as having opened a flagship store.

What’s the best design advice you’ve ever received? When I arrived in Florence, I tried very hard to fit in, and the first piece of advice came from one of my teachers. After looking at what I was working on, she said that it was awful and that I was trying to do fashion, but I wasn’t fashion. After inquiring what I had done previously, she said, ‘You’re crude! Do crude!’ She meant to be myself and do what I know. She was right. As soon as I did that, my designs started changing and the faculty fell in love with what I did.

Who are designers you admire? Two of my earliest heroes in the shoe world are René van den Berg and Peter Popps. Their work blows my mind. They create designs that no one else is doing, and both were big supporters of me early on.

Aerodynamic shapes serve as the calling card of Chris Donovan.

What does your Rising Star award mean to you? It’s validation. I always knew I saw shoe design a bit differently, but after making a massive change in my life without knowing if people would like what I do, winning this award has made me realize that I made the right move.

Are there times in the day now where you just pinch yourself? Oh my God, yes! It seems just yesterday I was climbing ladders and crawling across floors, and now I’m seeing my shoes worn by celebrities. Sometimes it feels as though my heart is going to burst.

What do you love most about designing shoes? Sketching. My mind runs with ideas like it’s on fire, and every idea creates 10 more. My consultants in Italy say I design like a machine gun. I get extremely focused into my own world with shapes morphing and converging in my head. There are times during the day when I might see a building, a plant, or a bird that sparks an image that I then rush to sketch on anything handy. I also love seeing someone wearing my designs. It brings them to life. There’s nothing like the feeling I get when a woman picks up one of my shoes and gasps.

Similarly, Lowa is giving back extra this year to the many outdoor causes it has long supported. That includes donating a bigger percentage of its website sales to non-profits like Big City Mountaineers, Cornell Lab of Ornithology, American Hiking Society, and Appalachian Mountain Club. Lowa is also taking over a Bavarian mountain town this September, inviting select retailers and consumers to try the latest styles and attend classes run by its ambassadors.

The fact is that milestones of this magnitude are rare, especially when taking into account the disruptions that have happened in the past 100 years. A centennial should be celebrated, and Lowa plans to make the most of it. “We’re proud to have survived wars, recessions, weather events, pandemics… you name it,” Sachs says. “It really is an incredible accomplishment.” Sachs singles out Lowa’s people, the caretakers, for guiding the brand through the many challenges. He’s proud to be one of those caretakers. It’s a responsibility he doesn’t take lightly. “I’m an arbiter on whether our product and messaging are right. Does it properly reflect our brand, or did we go off-trail? Do our athlete ambassadors reflect Lowa values, or are they just some hotshots who climb really well?”

In the case of Lowa ambassador Carlos Buhler, the brand fit is perfect. The expert climber—one with several Himalayan first ascents under his belt—stopped climbing recently in order to focus on the needs of others. Seeing climbing as a luxury in a time of war, Buhler went to work in soup kitchens along the Polish border to help feed Ukrainian refugees. He met a heart surgeon there and has since been reaching out to doctors in the U.S. to send medical equipment to Ukraine. Sachs has offered Lowa’s warehouse as a transit point for those shipments free of charge. “I’m fortunate to deal with people who have a lot of character,” Sachs says. “I think Carlos’ actions reflect those of our brand.”

Sachs has earned equal praise within the outdoor industry. Zappos’ Johnson says the first word that comes to mind when thinking of Sachs is trust. “Peter has built our relationship through open communication, acting reliably, sharing common goals, and fostering a sense of collaboration and respect,” he says. “He consistently demonstrates integrity with confidentiality and navigates challenges with us, laying the foundation for long-term success and mutual growth.” On a personal level, Johnson describes Sachs as a mentor. “He’s a knowledgeable resource who has helped me grow over our 17-year partnership,” he says. Tarr of Outdoor Sports Center concurs on Sachs’ solid mentoring skills. “He gives great advice on growing our business. I trust his insight,” he says, noting Sachs is a frequent visitor to the store. “I love talking about the outdoor industry with him. He’s always on the pulse of what’s happening.”

To that end, Sachs says Lowa’s main focus is on the trail ahead, be it launching new products or finding fresh ways to support the industry. “It’s really just as important as the past 100 years to say to our retailers and consumers that our goal is to be here for the next 100 years.” •