H Magazine Winter 2023/2024 by Swiss Deluxe Hotels

WINTER 2023/2024

Into the white CHF 12 / EUR 10

WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF SWISS DELUXE HOTELS

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Alchemy of Travel

Born to Cook

A Floral Paradise

Oskar’s Luxury Travels

Three Times Lucky

Electric quattro – today and tomorrow. Experience electric quattro all-wheel drive now and in the future. The fully electric Audi RS e-tron GT and Audi activesphere concept. Progress you can feel. Future is an attitude

More at audi.ch Audi RS e-tron GT, 598 HP, 21.1 kWh/100 km, 0 g CO₂/km, category B. The vehicle shown on the right is a concept vehicle; it is not available as a production vehicle. Consumption data valid until 31.12.2023. The data valid from 1.1.2024 were unavailable at the time of publication.

A B C D E F G

BORN FROM NATURE, ELEVATED OVER TIME

DOM RUINART, THE QUINTESSENTIAL BLANC DE BLANCS

Drink responsibly 5

A bit of self-indulgence.

Personal service and Swiss hospitality make every flight with SWISS a luxurious treat.

Travel is what you make of it.

swiss.com

Made of Switzerland.

1000 RECIPES. TRIED. FOUND MY OWN WAY.

HERE’S TO THE DEPTHS. Natural mineral water from the depth of the Swiss alps – full of strength, just like you!

CRESTA. The legacy of Charlie Chaplin. 10

KANDAHAR.SWISS

EVERY SHOE IS HANDCRAFTED IN SWITZERLAND

Swiss excellence in the treatment of mental health and issues of substance and behavioural dependency

YOU ARE UNIQUE AND SO ARE WE Clinic Les Alpes is an exceptionally private and secluded retreat. Located in a setting of outstanding natural beauty in the mountains close to the town of Montreux, Switzerland. The clinic has the added convenience of proximity to all major swiss airports. This exclusive clinic is fully medically licensed by the Swiss Department of Health and treats patients and their families with the issues of substance and behavioural dependency, along with debilitating emotional and mental conditions, such as anxiety, stress, depression and burnout. Clinic Les Alpes provides a fully integrated approach to treatment and each patient receives a bespoke programme created together with the medical team for his or her individual needs and requirements. The expertise of an international, highly skilled, multi-disciplinary team of medical, psychiatric, psychotherapeutic and complementary practitioners is on hand and available 24 hours a day, seven days a week to be of service to patients and their families who are referred from around the globe. The clinic is multilingual with the primary language being English. Clinic Les Alpes is beautifully appointed and each of the private ensuite bedrooms has superb views of lake Geneva, the snow capped mountains and alpine meadows. Below the main chateau building, three floors have been excavated from solid rock, flooded with natural light and housing state of the art medical and therapeutic facilities along with a complete floor dedicated to a full medical spa. Many services claim to deliver excellence. At Clinic Les Alpes we have set our sights on defining it. We are here to assist. Contact us in complete confidence at:

w ww. cliniclesalp es. com +41 58 360 55 0 0

The Salzburg Festival is described as the largest and most important festival in the world, and indeed this reputation can be substantiated by numerous superlatives — not only in terms of the number of events, annual visitors or tickets on offer. Everyone of distinction — conductors, directors, singers, actors and virtuosos of world renown — honours Salzburg in summer. And even the most prominent opera stars spend weeks of hard rehearsals preparing their performances and putting themselves at the service of the festival philosophy.

’No other festival offers such a wide range of classical music, opera and theatre as the Salzburg Festival.’ The New York Times

From its humble beginnings in 1920 to its current international standing, the festival has a remarkable history. Max Reinhardt, one of the visionary founders, dreamed of a place where art and culture would be celebrated in their highest form. His heritage lives on in every performance on the stages. The breathtaking venues, including the Großes Festspielhaus, the Haus für Mozart, the Felsenreitschule and the Domplatz provide setting of peerless beauty and magic. Here art comes alive, emotions are awakened and dreams come true. We cordially invite you to become part of this unforgettable experience. The Salzburg Festival is not only a festival, but also a reflection of human creativity and passion. Be part of it, enter the world of opera, theatre and music and let yourself be enchanted.

SALZBURG FESTIVAL 19 JULY — 31 AUGUST 2024

We look forward to welcoming you to Salzburg to experience the magic of the Salzburg Festival 2024.

www.salzburgfestival.at 15

N THE C

Degussa: Your concierge for investments in precious metals.

O E T WI

old has been the strongest currency for 6,000 years and is therefore considered a solid long-term investment. As the largest independent precious metal trader in Europe outside the banking system, Degussa is able to offer you comprehensive advice in our Swiss branches in Zurich and Geneva. We help you compile your personal investment portfolio with a wide selection of Degussa-branded gold bars. Degussa bars are produced in Switzerland. Furthermore, they are LBMA-certified and bear a bank security number. Our bullion coins represent an alternative investment opportunity. For safe storage, we provide state-of-the-art safe deposit box facilities to protect your assets 24/7. Further information and online shop at:

DEGUSSA-GOLDHANDEL.CH Bleicherweg 41 · 8002 Zurich · Phone: +41 44 403 41 10 Quai du Mont-Blanc 5 · 1201 Geneva · Phone: +41 22 908 14 00

Memberships:

ZURICH

MADRID

GENE VA

FRANKFURT 18

LONDON

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

tarting your day at the hotel with the generous gift of time, at least an hour, is an elegant declaration of serenity, style, and wisdom. It represents a serene rebellion against the relentless pace of modern life. As Thomas Garms eloquently puts it in his latest column, it is an acknowledgment that, for the discerning, there is always an abundance of time to engage with the day’s challenges and responsibilities.

Allow yourself to indulge; it’s a sentiment understood by Tim Weiland, the General Manager of Alpina Gstaad. He aligns with the destination’s motto, Come up, slow down, to ensure that guests, and even their pets, can fully enjoy a luxurious and leisurely experience. Here, both dogs and humans can savour a slower pace of life. As a philosopher once said, luxury is nothing short of a stylish protest against boredom. Our columnist Dan Roznov captures this essence flawlessly in his exploration of true luxury. And indeed, boredom is a force that the truly refined rebel against. In the 1940s, shoemaker Fritz von Allmen embodied this spirit. His creative genius birthed the world’s first aprèsski boot. Word quickly spread about this masterpiece, renowned for its luxurious lambskin lining and unassuming elegance. It was a product that defied the ordinary and found success as a testament to the power of creative innovation. While curating the content for this edition, we couldn’t help but notice a recurring theme: the growing desire for stability and the art of deceleration. Our lives have become a whirlwind, a sentiment observed not only by our columnists. H Magazine: Swiss savoir-vivre. Stories, interviews and reports will take you into the world of Switzerland’s most prestigious five-star hotels. Discover H Magazine at selected newsagents in Germany and Austria or take out a subscription:

Taking a moment to pause is a welcome respite. Dedicate some time to reflect, daydream, or immerse yourself in a good book. Be prepared to uncover unexpected joys at a relaxed pace. This magazine is a celebration of precisely that type of luxury and an invitation to discover the profound delight of time well spent. Enjoy! Evelyn Gorgos

SWITZERLAND’S LEADING SHOPPING DESTINATION

BASEL PROVISORIUM FREIE STRASSE 50 4001 BASEL

BERN SPITALGASSE 17–21 3011 BERN

SHOP ONLINE GLOBUS.CH

GENF RUE DU RHÔNE 48 1204 GENÈVE

GLATTZENTRUM NEUE WINTER THURERSTRASSE 99 8304 WALLISELLEN

LAUSANNE RUE DU PONT 5 1003 LAUSANNE

LUZERN PILATUSSTRASSE 4 6002 LUZERN

ST. GALLEN NEUGASSE 54 9000 ST. GALLEN

ZÜRICH SCHWEIZERGASSE 11 8001 ZÜRICH

Chef’s Portrait

At the age of just four, Yannick Crepaux had already started to prepare his own dishes. Today he cooks in the Valais mountains at the very highest level – and he still loves to give a hint of freshness by adding citrus fruits.

Gourmet Tour Deluxe

The region between Lucerne and Vitznau is a hotspot for creative concepts with a unique signature – Asian-inspired and using the very best Swiss products.

WINTER HIGHLIGHTS Travel Guide

A Floral Paradise

Welcome to the blooms, the new garden restaurant at the Dolder Grand Hotel in Zurich.

Oskar

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A giant mythological creature, fish in beeswax and fluffy dog beds: at The Alpina Gstaad luxury hotel, animals play more than just an insignificant supporting role. Nevertheless, they also need to behave appropriately, as author Titus Arnu found out during his stay with his Labrador Oskar.

We will take you on a sightseeing flight high above the Alpine peaks of the Bernese Oberland, to the white expanses of the Zermatt mountains and to one of our favourite gourmet restaurants in Crans-Montana.

Three Times Lucky 55

A column by Thomas Garms.

Swiss Top Events

Spa Review

Entering a new era with a dedication to sustainability.

A capital delight with our beauty expert Steffi Hidber.

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Standards Editorial 19 Swiss Deluxe Hotels Locations Swiss Deluxe Hotels Overview Publishing Credits 145

About a smart move and the coincidence that Einstein used to live five minutes from the Bundeshaus in Bern.

The View

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Bernʼs innovative local bar scene with wonderfully tasty creations.

The Alchemy of Travel

Seasonal Pick

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Tim Weiland about Swiss innovation, tradition and the respect for craftsmanship and food culture. 21

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Finding the balance between precise argumentation and branding that stands out. Over the past 25 years, we’ve focused on sparkling ideas designed to ignite the momentum for powerful communication. See for yourself: www.ddcom.ch

DD COM Communication Arts Whether it’s branding, campaigns, digital, motion, editorial, graphic design or POS – we deliver. With creativity, dedication and professionalism. welcome@ddcom.ch 22

CONTRIBUTORS

SPECIAL THX TO ELENA & TIM STENESS started their professional career in the fashion branch 18 years ago, presently as fashion designer and supply chain manager for three premium brands. Beside intense work, they enjoy their life as petrol heads, architecture and food lovers, with trips to beautiful places and sceneries. These enjoyable times are fixed in their fascinating, arty photography and content creations for Elena’s instagram account ELENASTENESS.

DR THOMAS GARMS is a passionate and experienced traveller. A box spring bed is just as important to him as a pool and a hot café crème for breakfast. After many years in political and business journalism, he now publishes the luxury magazine Materialist, which unites the world of clever investment with that of enjoyment and discovery. He particularly loves the Swiss mountains and a refreshing dip in the Rhine or the Limmat. www.materialist.media

ALEXANDER PALACIOS is a photographic artist living in Basel whose passion lies in depicting people and interacting with social society. He strives to understand the inner forces that drive people and thus undertakes a wide spectrum of work ranging from travel to the remotest of places to portray indigenous peoples to creating a portrait of Irina Shayk for the luxury fashion brand Marc Cain. As an enthusiastic road cyclist, he travelled for us together with Claudio Del Principle to Arosa to get on his bike with Ingo Schlösser.

CLIFFORD LILLEY hails from sunny South Africa where he was born in the seaside village of Simonstown, once home to the British Royal Navy and now known for its colony of African Penguins who arrived suddenly in the mid-80s and have stayed ever since, on the very beach where, as a child, Clifford learned to swim. Not unlike the penguin, Clifford too relocated, came to Zürich and has stayed ever since! He has learned to embrace an entirely new culture and embark on a career as a stylist in fashion spanning over 3 decades. Today he is a well-known face dressing many a Swiss celebrity and appearing on TV shows and in diverse media publications. There’s no town like Zürich for Clifford and no turning back!

Picture taken by Julius Hitzberger

Let us guide you.

Positioner holistically combines creativity, technology and analytics to help distinctively develop and position hospitality brands. We orchestrate the positioning process across the entire guest experience journey with a method that involves exploration, design and execution. For over 23 years we have been working with exceptional hotels and destinations around the world to deliver measurable results. positioner.com — For exceptional destinations that want to go places. 24

THOUGHTS

into the white There is almost no other country in the world that offers a paradise for winter sports of all kinds like Switzerland. Whether you are looking for snow sports, a hike in the mountains, or simply a leisurely carriage ride through the magical snow-covered winter forests, Switzerland has been delighting domestic and international guests during the winter months for almost 160 years. With the advent of winter tourism at the end of the 19th century, Switzerland assumed a pioneering role and its innovative drive in this area remains palpable to the current day. Switzerland’s hospitality and luxury hotel sectors have perfected the art of always surprising their guests with new ideas and experiences and offering an entertaining program away from the cross-country skiing trails and ski slopes. In this edition, our travel guide takes us on a journey through the snow-covered landscapes of Western Switzerland. From Gstaad, over the Col du Pillon pass to Aigle, then into Valais to Crans-Montana and Zermatt. Into the white aptly describes this picturesque route that we had the pleasure of driving in an electrically powered Audi. Be inspired by the beauty of the white splendour that adorns the route and the iconic places that it takes in.

Michael Smithuis Chairman Swiss Deluxe Hotels

Switzerland’s beautiful nature is just one success factor, albeit a very important one, that draws guests from around the world to the country located at the heart of Europe. Our employees, who work with passion and dedication to ensure the well-being of our guests, are an equally important part of the hospitality for which we are renowned. And this is perhaps the biggest challenge we currently face, namely, to find enough and, above all else, highly qualified employees for our fascinating industry. The demands of our guests continue to evolve. Even if the luxury hotel business lives to a large extent from personal contact with guests, the processes behind the scenes are becoming ever more digitised and standardised. Only if we maintain a balance between innovation, digitisation and first-class and individual guest care will we be able to continue to live up to our promise of excellent service and preserve the uniqueness of the Swiss luxury hotel industry as part of a successful future. I would like to wish you a wonderful and snowy winter. We look forward to welcoming you at one of our 39 Swiss Deluxe Hotels. Let yourself be enchanted by the winter wonderland of Switzerland! 25

NESPRESSO X H MAGAZINE

high-quality organic coffees Anyone who is on the lookout for a special flavour experience with coffee would be well advised to try a single origin coffee. The beans come from only one country of origin and guarantee exquisite flavours – ranging from sweet to nutty to fruity – thanks to the traditional cultivation, harvesting and sustainable processing methods used. In order to offer a sustainable flavour experience, Nespresso offers part of its Professional coffee range Origins for companies, restaurants and hotels in organic quality. Today, there are four organic varieties in the Nespresso Professional range.

BRAZIL ORGANIC

Brazil Organic from Nespresso Professional reflects Brazil and its soils, ecosystems and aromas in all their diversity. Grown sustainably, this organic coffee originates partly from the dry savannah of the Cerrado region and partly from the hilly plantations in the southern Brazilian state of Minas Gerais. A pure Arabica blend, Brazil Organic is a fine combination of unmistakable notes of roasted grain and caramel. The aroma is rounded off with hints of wood, nuts and spices. Neither bitter nor sour, it is the perfect choice for anyone who prefers especially mild coffee. 26

CONGO ORGANIC

The fertile volcanic soils on the shores of Lake Kivu are home to coffee plants that produce a smooth organic coffee with notes of roasted grains, aromas of hazelnut and a mild fruity flavour. The beans undergo a split roasting process. Both batches are roasted for a short time till dark, but the first batch is roasted a little longer for greater intensity. COLOMBIA ORGANIC

Residing at dizzyingly high altitudes, surrounded by national parks, the coffee farmers of the Tolima region put their heart and soul into growing their Arabica coffee in the shade of the trees and clouds. The volcanoes in the area make for nutrient-rich soils, and the result is healthier coffee plants that produce a more complex cup of coffee. In addition to the generous, dense texture of its crema, this coffee stands out on account of the split roasting process used to produce it. As is typical of is origin, Colombia Organic has distinctive, classical notes of red fruits. When it is combined with milk, sweet hints of caramel emerge.

PERU ORGANIC

The Arabica beans used for Nespresso Professional’s first certified organic coffee, which it has been offering to its business, restaurant and hotel industry customers for a number of years now, grow at altitudes of 1,000 to over 2,000 metres, hidden away on remote slopes of the Peruvian Andes. Peru Organic is a fruity, elegant coffee with a delicate acidity that is offset wonderfully by the contrasting aromas of roasted sweet grains. It develops its exceptional flavour profile thanks to the high atmospheric humidity in the sub-tropical highland climate where it grows – as well as, naturally, the loving care of the coffee farmers who have passed down their expertise in coffee cultivation for generations.

CERTIFYING NESPRESSO’S COMMITMENT

To provide the best high-quality coffee, Nespresso has been committed to sustainability for over 30 years. Having received the B Corp certification in 2022, Nespresso has joined a community of companies that commit to strict social and environmental standards. B Corp is more than just a certification – it is a sustainability movement in which everyone shares the same motto: Using business as a force for good. 27

MORE INFORMATION

nespresso.com/pro

a house full of stories

WORDS PATRICIA BRÖHM

There’s no eye-catching sign, no imposing driveway: only a modest wrought-iron gate to the right of the lakeside road in Gargnano that points those in the know to Villa Feltrinelli. If you’ve booked a room or a table, just ring the bell and they’ll welcome you in – into a totally different world. ‘It’s actually a world that no longer exists,’ says Markus Odermatt. He is sitting on the terrace and looking out at Lake Garda, his adopted home for 22 years. Odermatt has been in charge of Villa Feltrinelli, which was constructed in 1892 and is now a listed building, since it was converted into a hotel in 2001. A hotel? He shakes his head: ‘We are not a hotel – we are a house with guests.’ One does indeed feel like a visitor to a private country residence here. There are no fixed times for breakfast, for example, and if guests want to have their breakfast in the park: ‘No problem at all,’ says Odermatt. Originally from Lucerne, Odermatt worked his way up from the very bottom in the hotel business. It all began with an apprenticeship as a chef. This was followed by a period of study at Hotelfachschule Luzern (the hotel management school in Lucerne) and employment in hotels such as Schweizerhof Bern, Gstaad Palace and Park Hotel Vitznau. Odermatt then spent over

ten years in South America and the Caribbean, where he managed a number of prestigious hotels. At the Beverly Wilshire in Los Angeles, he got to know Bob Burns, founder of the Regent Hotels. This was a fateful encounter, as Burns later brought Odermatt to Villa Feltrinelli, which he had purchased on a whim. ‘The villa was my labour of love, my baby,’ says Odermatt, who remained loyal to it even after Burns had sold it to a real estate company. ‘It is a place that is full of stories,’ he says. Mussolini spent the final years of his life at the villa, and the colourful and renowned publisher Giangiacomo Feltrinelli held exhilarating parties here. It is the flair of the living past that makes the villa such an extraordinary location. There’s the 300-year-old magnolia under which Henry Miller played table tennis, and the stone mosaic on whose slabs Rolling Stones muse Anita Pallenberg danced the night away in her bare feet. And then there’s simply the unique location, which the Feltrinelli brothers chose very deliberately for their villa – because Gargnano with its lemon groves has always had the best microclimate on the lake. Having spent a life studying the topic of luxury, Odermatt knows what counts: ‘A good hotel is like a flying carpet. It whisks the guests away to another place and another time.’ 29

beautiful. resolute. WORDS CLAUDIO DEL PRINCIPE

Radicchio has only been grown here since the 1980s. One particular kind has enjoyed a very special career over the last ten years: Radicchio di Castelfranco from Veneto, with its yellow leaves, pretty red speckles and significantly finer leaf structure with fewer bitter compounds.

In total, there are currently around ten varieties of radicchio, most of which are grown in Northern Italy. Some are now harvested here in Switzerland, too. Early varieties are available from the summer onwards, others from late autumn to spring. Like the petalshaped queen of the family, Radicchio Rosso di Treviso tardivo, with the protected designation of origin IGP. This particularly beautiful and distinctive vegetable is only grown in certain municipalities of the provinces of Treviso, Padua and Venice.

The radicchio family is a type of chicory and is related to other bitter-tasting salad leaves and vegetables. A wide range of varieties have been bred and grown, above all in Northern Italy. Radicchio’s culinary appeal lies in its diversity of flavours. With its distinctive bitter aromas, radicchio is delicious both raw and fried. Exciting pairings can be made with sweet-and-sour and fatty ingredients. 30

It is mainly the complex bitter aromas that make radicchio so exciting and refreshing for our taste buds. The plant’s crisp texture coupled with its veins that are firm to the bite and delicate leaves is also appealing. Radicchio goes especially well with ingredients that balance out these bitter compounds – sweetand-sour vinegars like Aceto tradizionale di Modena or citrus fruits like blood orange, but also fatty accompaniments like cheese, fish or meat. A further classic way of cooking it is with red wine in a risotto.

Radicchio contributes exciting elements to complex dishes in terms of flavour, aesthetics and texture. And with creative and innovative techniques, there are still many different combinations to discover and try out.

It all depends on the preparation method. Raw and served with a vinegar dressing or fermented, radicchio goes well with soft, creamy white or sparkling wines from Northern Italy. If roasting flavours or fatty elements are brought into the mix, powerful, structured white wines or light red wines are also a good choice.

KANDAHAR X H MAGAZINE

no-frills luxury

The success story began in the 1930s, when Mürren master shoemaker Fritz von Allmen ran out of work in the off season. ‘This mountain business with all its unproductive working time,’ he wrote in his diary in desperation. To get by, the businessman started manufacturing ski boots for the local Kandahar ski racing club. 32

His big breakthrough came some 15 years later with the first lambskin-lined après ski boot – a light, comfortable shoe that pampered the feet. These winter boots with their conspicuous look quickly caught on – including abroad and with celebrities. Among the most well-known customers were the conductor Herbert von Karajan and the actor Charlie Chaplin – as seen in the picture with Petula Clark post-skiing in Mürren in the 1940s.

The name Kandahar has been synonymous with exclusive quality, handmade craftsmanship and Swissness since 1932. Having continuously honed its expertise over the generations, the company continues to produce with materials that are both high-quality and sustainable.

In 2022, the von Allmen family passed on the Kandahar brand to the Müller entrepreneurial family, thus securing the future of the traditional brand and its shoe production in Switzerland. The shoes are still made individually by hand in Sennwald in the St. Gallen Rhine Valley, in a process that involves around 200 steps.

The complex production process also justifies the price of this handmade in Switzerland brand product. A Kandahar shoe is made of around 50 individual parts. To this day, they are cut according to the old templates. Sewing them together is a long process. There is no step that doesn’t involve some form of manual work and the company still produces all its individual parts in Switzerland.

Whether the design is sporty, cool or elegant, natural materials like suede, nappa, nubuck, goatskin, horse hide and velour guarantee sustainability and outstanding quality in terms of both optics and function. With their timeless, straightforward design, these shoes are an investment in the future. Worn soles can be replaced, guaranteeing the wearer many years of enjoyment.

MORE INFORMATION

kandahar.swiss 33

SKNIFE X H MAGAZINE

combining beauty, care and functionality WORDS THOMAS GARMS

´TRADITION IS AN IMPORTANT LINK WITH THE VALUES OF OUR PAST WHICH MUST BE PRESERVED AND PROTECTED.´

‘Serrated knives tear the meat,’ says Michael Bach, founder of the Swiss knife manufacturer Sknife. ‘Only a really sharp blade will glide effortlessly through the juicy meat without wounding it.’ And that is precisely what counts when it comes to getting full enjoyment out of meat. Born in Germany but now resident in the Swiss city of Biel with his family, Bach developed his knives in cooperation with top chefs. The first step in the process was to do some very intensive research into materials. His 20-year experience as a materials engineer in the watchmaking industry stood him in good stead. Special alloys and the very finest steels play a key role in both sectors. Blades from Sknife are therefore made of surgical steel with a high nitrogen content. This type of steel is four times more corrosion-resistant and is particularly hard and tough. The crossglued handles are made of Swiss wood – mainly ash but sometimes walnut. Prior to use, the wood undergoes a special stabilisation process involving immersion in acrylic resin which then soaks into the fibres. ‘This stops the handle from swelling when it comes into contact with water,’ Bach explains. Sknife knives are therefore ideal for the culinary industry and are also used in restaurants at the seaside and on yachts. ‘Today there are seven people working in the workshop: knife smiths, knife grinders and engravers,’ Bach explains. ‘Each knife is unique,’ he says. ‘They are made by hand to an extremely high degree of precision. In total, the process of making a knife involves over forty different steps.

It’s a pity that so few young people are interested in this profession,’ Bach complains. The availability of skilled craftsmen is currently the biggest factor limiting the company’s expansion. The Biel businessman delivered his first steak knife in 2015. Nowadays, his knives can be found in some of the world’s best restaurants with over 200 Michelin stars between them and they have also won four international design awards. Sknife cutlery was recently named best cutlery in the Tableware International Awards of Excellence 2022. The precious Sknife knives are also very popular with guests, especially at exclusive chef’s tables. ‘In the past, standard commercially available knives for use in kitchens were far too heavy,’ he explains. Sknife knives have a flowing, perfectly balanced shape. The knives are resharpened two or three times a year, with the little section at the tip being key. Bach is always particularly pleased when guests who see his knives in a hotel restaurant order them for home on the spot. ‘There could be no better compliment,’ he says. 34

slow down WORDS MARTIN HOCH

The first snow has covered Valais in a white winter coat. And while the hustle and bustle of the pre-Christmas period has already arrived in Switzerland´s towns and cities, one of the most precious commodities of all can still be found in Riffelalp high above Zermatt: peace and quiet. The hotel provides an almost unrivalled setting for a tranquil getaway with someone close to your heart.

If you want to supplement your recuperation with a little action, you can get snowshoes from the hotel’s integrated sports shop and head out on one of the signposted snowshoe trails – you’ll quickly find yourself in snow-covered nature and feel how a sense of tranquillity comes over you. Alternatively, you can join one of the snowshoe tours organised by the hotel and benefit from following the expert hiking guide Yann.

The hotel’s outdoor pool provides a wonderful place to unwind and recharge your batteries away from the stresses of everyday life. While your back is massaged in the whirlpool, your gaze will glide directly to the Matterhorn. And then it’s off to the grotto. Here, you will get to bathe in a mountain landscape that feels as though it could be situated hundreds of metres below ground in a mountain tunnel. Relaxation can also be found in the saunas and steam baths.

The hotel bar is an especially cosy corner of the establishment. Here, the mood is set by a pianist and the crackling fireplace. Through the high windows, you can marvel at the contours of the Matterhorn through the night and toast the experience with a cocktail in your hand. The start of the evening here is just as atmospheric as the last drink you enjoy before heading to bed. The bar is also a great place to visit for an informal dinner.

As the saying goes, the way to a man’s heart is through his stomach. At Restaurant Alexandre, you can look deep into each other’s eyes and savour fine dishes from head chef Luigi Lafranco. In the Italian Ristorante Al Bosco, you will be seduced by wonderful dishes full of amore and sweet desserts such as tiramisu. And a sociable ambience can also be found in the Walliserkeller, where you can indulge in some raclette and a glass of white wine.

Alongside relaxation, it is important that there is also no shortage of fun. Those who discover the bowling alley located in the hotel’s basement certainly won’t be disappointed in this regard. You can also head down to the billiard room to pot a few balls.

MORE INFORMATION

+41 27 966 05 55 reservation@riffelalp.com riffelalp.com

art with a view to the south

PHOTO ALEX LAMBRECHTS

Ticino’s biggest city has long been renowned for its parks, flower gardens and villas. Over the past few years, however, it has also gained a reputation for its cultural offering. Located between Zurich and Milan, Lugano today combines scenic beauty with an extensive range of cultural activities for visitors to enjoy. Whether your interest lies in nature, history, art or sociology, the region’s 36 museums are sure to delight and enthral any culture fan with a wide-ranging programme of exhibitions and events throughout the year.

Where the ruins of the lavish Grand Palace Hotel once stood, a visionary building for art and culture was built that regularly attracts the biggest names in the international art scene to the south of Switzerland. LAC – these three letters stand for Lugano Arte e Cultura and also symbolise its location in the immediate vicinity of Lake Lugano. The modern cultural centre provides space and premises for a comprehensive programme of exhibitions, concert series, theatre and dance performances, and cultural initiatives as well as activities for young people and families. A 1,000-seater concert hall completely covered with wooden panelling and equipped with a mobile acoustic shell offers the perfect setting for theatre performances and concerts. It is the main location for the LuganoInScena and LuganoMusica programmes, which include performances by the Compagnia Finzi Pasca and Orchestra della Svizzera italiana. Several concerts of Radiotelevisione Svizzera di lingua Italiana are also hosted there. The LAC is also home to the Museo d’arte della Svizzera italiana (MASI), which was created from the merger between the Museo Cantonale d’Arte and the Museo d’Arte della Città di Lugano. Across the venue’s three floors, visitors can enjoy a permanent exhibition as well as various temporary exhibitions and site-specific installations. The works held in the new structure include those of the Palazzo Reali on via Canova, which was previously the main address of the Museo Cantonale d’Arte. The programme of the MASI at LAC is primarily devoted to exhibitions that provide a platform for visitors to study and gain a deeper insight into modern and contemporary art, while the works of the Palazzo Reali date from the 15th century to the first half of the 20th century, with a particular focus on the region itself. The exhibition hall of the MASI-run Collezione Giancarlo e Danna Olgiati houses and presents works from the collection that are among the most important pieces of Italian art produced between the beginning of the 20th century and the present day. It also showcases some of the most significant pieces from the Nouveau Réalisme movement and the area of international contemporary art and hosts a programme of temporary exhibitions. The Balla ’12 Dorazio ’60. Dove la luce exhibition (running until 14 January 2024) tells the story of the extraordinary elective affinity between two

masters of the Italian 20th century: the futurist Giacomo Balla and the abstractionist Piero Dorazio. The famous Swiss architect Mario Botta is responsible for the exhibition’s design. In the historic Villa Malpensata located on the banks of Lake Lugano, the Museo delle Culture (MUSEC) devotes its exhibition programme to a variety of areas ranging from ethnic and oriental art to modern and contemporary art and children’s creativity. One of the highlights of the current programme is the Luca Pignatelli. Abstract exhibition, which will run until 12 May 2024 with around 50 masterpieces created by the Milanese artist. Villa Heleneum in Castagnola on the shores of Lake Lugano is located in the middle of a dreamy art nouveau park with Mediterranean vegetation. In 2021, the neoclassical building passed into the hands of the Swiss luxury brand Bally, which established the Bally Foundation following a careful renovation. The company, whose shoes can be found all over the world, also promotes art and culture and wants to shine a spotlight on innovation and environmental issues. The cultural project, which is headed up by Vittoria Matarrese, is aiming to support creative and visionary talents in Switzerland and around the world. The Sometimes we are eternal exhibition (running from 27 October 2023 until 25 February 2024) is the first solo exhibition to be held by the artist Sarah Brahim. In Lugano, there are also numerous galleries represented by the Association of Art Galleries of Lugano (GAL), whose aim is to acquaint a wide audience of collectors, art lovers and those interested in finding out more about contemporary art. The nine member galleries are currently working on the annual exhibition, which is set to take place in spring 2024, as well as an extensive programme of lectures, discussions, and other accompanying events. Lake Lugano and the surrounding mountains have always attracted creative minds and writers from across the globe. The Museo Hermann Hesse is located in the municipality of Collina d’Oro, just a stone’s throw away from the city. The poet and painter spent the last 43 years of his life at Casa Camuzzi and felt at home in the village of Montagnola, where the unique landscape and special light conditions were a source of fascination and inspiration for the artist. 39

from gstaad to zermatt

What could be better these days than immersing yourself in the snowy countryside, stopping off at the best chefs, exploring the mountains on skis and toasting to the sunny side of life – all on this road trip.

GSTAAD COL DU PILLON

CRANS-MONTANA CAVE CALOZ

SALINE DE BEX

FONDATION PIERRE GIANADDA

ZERMATT

TRAVEL GUIDE

WORDS MARTIN HOCH PHOTOS NICO SCHAERER

We put on our warm jackets and sunglasses and set off to discover the most beautiful corners of Gstaad, Crans-Montana and Zermatt. We accompanied Daniel Koetser, the owner of Le Grand Bellevue, on a sightseeing flight high above the Alpine peaks of the Bernese Oberland and explored the white expanses of the Zermatt mountains with the former skier Fränzi Aufdenblatten. In between, we enjoyed high-quality restaurants such as LeMontBlanc in Crans-Montana, sampled outstanding Valais wines with Sandrine Caloz and visited the legendary Vrony at her restaurant Chez Vrony in Zermatt. 43

GSTAAD GSTAAD PALACE

LO B BY B A R The Lobby Bar at the Gstaad Palace is the perfect place to meet for coffee and cake in the winter. Some even refer to it as Gstaad’s living room. Later in the afternoon, Mario Guzzetti conjures up wonderful cocktails, and anyone who starts to feel peckish and prefers a simple meal should order a portion of spaghetti alle vongole, once the favourite dish of Ernst Andrea Scherz, who ran the hotel from 1969 to 2001.

LA FROMAGERIE The place where Andrea Buschini, the maître d’hôtel, now serves guests a Nespresso after having enjoyed their fondue or raclette was used by the Swiss National bank to store gold during World War Two. Evidence remains to this day in the form of the red vault door through which guests enter the restaurant.

THE ALPINA GSTAAD

– palace.ch

J A PA N E S E W H I S K Y B A R Among the best in the world, Japanese whiskies are extremely coveted. The Alpina Gstaad has an excellent selection of high-quality Japanese whiskies, which it goes to great lengths to buy directly in Japan.

M E G U R E S TA U R A N T Master sushi chef Tsutomu Kugota from Kobe takes guests on a culinary journey through Japan. At the heart of the Bernese Alps, he set up one of the leading Japanese restaurants in Switzerland. The omakase tasting menu and the chateaubriand of Wagyu beef are true experiences. – thealpinagstaad.ch

LE GRAND BELLEVUE GSTAAD

A M A N F U L L O F PA S S I O N Daniel Koetser’s eyes are like an open book. Anyone who meets him quickly notices that here is a man who is full of passion. He pursues this passion day in, day out, be that in his work as the owner of Le Grand Bellevue in Gstaad or in his leisure time. We met him at his hotel and accompanied him on an excursion high up into the mountain peaks of Gstaad.

Entrepreneur, developer and owner of the Grand Bellevue Gstaad. When Daniel Koetser acquired the hotel in 2012, he fully renovated and repositioned the property.

´WHEN WE TOOK OVER THE HOTEL OVER TEN YEARS AGO, IT ALREADY OFFERED THE BEST LOCATION AND INCREDIBLE FACILITIES – ALL THE BONES WERE THERE. AND THEN WE STARTED TO INJECT IT WITH A HELL OF A LOT OF SOUL.´

The blades are whirring, the helicopter is ready to take off. Daniel Koetser is as excited as a child, his eyes sparkling. He loves the area and knows it like the back of his hand. The chance to enjoy a bird’s eye view of Gstaad and fly up to the towering mountain peaks is a great privilege for him. He can hardly wait to set off. ‘Let’s go!’ he calls out, and within seconds the world on the ground starts to shrink and the mountains begin to reveal themselves. 45

´GSTAAD HAS IT ALL: INCOMPARABLY BEAUTIFUL LANDSCAPES, AUTHENTICITY AND GLAMOUR. AND ON TOP OF THAT THE MOST STUNNING HOTELS IN THE WORLD.´

If you ask Daniel Koetser about his philosophy, some of the answers are pretty unconventional. ‘With our hotel,’ he says, ‘my wife and I wanted to create something distinctive, not something that everybody has to like.’ To do this, he and his team had to take their own path. ‘When others turn right or left, we don’t follow them. What other hotels do is of no significance to us.’ This applies to everything, from the furnishings to the service to the pricing. The objective isn’t simply to be different for the sake of it, but to be true to themselves and their ideas. ‘We don’t want to be a hip hotel – we want to be one with lots of charisma.’ It’s important to him that guests feel at home and are able to relax. This is the feat that the Bellevue appears to achieve with ease: to create a relaxed atmosphere while simultaneously offering maximum luxury.

The interior of Le Grand Bellevue Gstaad: stylish and playful.

´I LOVE TO HAVE FUN. I LIKE TO REMIND PEOPLE THAT IT IS A PRIVILEGE TO BE ALIVE. SO KEEP YOUR EYES OPEN AND EMBRACE IT.´

The job of a hotel owner is to master a wide range of disciplines to perfection while always maintaining a good balance. Lasting success is only possible with consistent hard work and a will to improve every day. At the same time, however, hotel owners must also deliver a product that is fun. Guests want to be aware of their host and perhaps clink glasses, share a laugh or simply have a conversation with them from time to time. Daniel Koetser achieves this balancing act to perfection – probably because it isn’t a balancing act at all for him. It is in his nature to follow his passion uncompromisingly while simultaneously loving life and living it to the full. 47

C O L D U P I L LO N Few countries offer better road trips than Switzerland. Rather than hours and hours of monotonous landscapes, in Switzerland the countryside changes constantly. One great example is when you leave Gstaad and drive into Valais via the Col du Pillon.

F O N D AT I O N P I E R R E G I A N A D D A MUSEUM The private cultural foundation in Martigny regularly holds top-class exhibitions. In addition, the sculpture park in the garden is an ideal place to take a stroll while admiring works by such renowned artists as Niki de Saint Phalle, Hans Erni, Joan Miró and Jean Dubuffet. – gianadda.ch

Above: We relied on an all-electric Audi with four-wheel drive for the road trip – it even mastered deeply snow-covered roads with great elegance. Léonard Gianadda had the expressive concrete building built according to his own designs over the remains of a Roman temple.

TRAVEL GUIDE

SALINE DE BEX, BEX Switzerland doesn’t just have lots of yellow gold stashed away in its bank vaults – its mountains are also rich in white gold. In the salt mines of Bex, where 90 tonnes of this white gold are mined every day, there is enough salt to last at least 200 years. On a tour of the mines, a train takes you down 1,600 metres into the mountain. After that, you get to explore the narrow passages and enormous halls on foot. The network is enormous, featuring a total of 50 kilometres of passages, some of which were once chiselled out of the mountain by hand. Following the tour, participants can buy high-quality Fleur des Alpes salt in the mine – a product that is sure to enhance any dish. Tours of the salt mine must be booked in advance online. – salz.ch

C AV E C A LO Z , M I È G E There is one thing road-trippers to this part of the world should not miss out on: a chance to taste the fantastic wines which are produced from the grapes that grow on the sun-kissed Valais slopes. One particularly exciting wine maker has her vineyards around the village Miège, not far from Crans-Montana. Sandrine Caloz produces organic wines of the very finest quality here. Having taken over the business from her father ten years ago, the oenologist has recently been creating a stir with her distinctive and characterful wines, winning several awards in the process. – cavecaloz.ch 49

CHEZ VRONY If you are looking to take a break from skiing in order to visit somewhere with plenty of atmosphere in the middle of the rugged mountain landscape – and enjoy some top-quality fine dining in the process – then be sure to check out the legendary Chez Vrony in Findeln. Together with her husband Max and their team, Vrony has created an unparalleled oasis for people who love to indulge in good food – either inside in the rustic parlour or outside on the lounge terrace to the sound of chill-out beats. – chezvrony.ch

MONT CERVIN PALACE

ZERMATT

A dream team in private and business: Vrony and Max.

This icon of a hotel is situated at the heart of Zermatt. The fairytale-like building has been a fixture in the village for over 170 years. A highlight here – especially after a day outside in the snow – is the spa with its saunas, steam baths, jacuzzis and swimming pools – montcervinpalace.ch

GRAND HOTEL ZERMATTERHOF Situated directly on Bahnhofstrasse, the Zermatterhof dominates the townscape of Zermatt. The sun terrace in front of the hotel is the perfect place to have a drink and enjoy the wonderful views of the Matterhorn, and the hotel’s various restaurants offer an exciting range of high-quality cuisine – including Alpine gourmet dining at Prato Borni. Anyone wishing to sit on Zermatt’s most beautiful terrace should treat themselves to a drink at LUSI, the brasserie at Zermatterhof. Here, you are well and truly in the thick of things on Bahnhofstrasse. And as the day turns to evening, you can move inside and take a seat at a table in one of Zermatt's most spectacular halls, where you can choose between high-quality French cuisine and a range of classic international dishes. – zermatterhof.ch

Culinary top class at the Alpine Gourmet Prato Borni.

´IT’S TRUE – WE ZERMATT RESIDENTS ARE A LITTLE PECULIAR. IT TAKES A WHILE TO GET TO KNOW US AND MAKE FRIENDS WITH US. BUT WE HAVE BIG HEARTS.´

R E F R E S H I N G LY D O W N -TO - E A R T H , DESPITE HER SUCCESS Now 42 years old, skier Fränzi Aufdenblatten already made international podiums from a very young age. As a junior, she won multiple gold medals in the World Championships. Later, she regularly made the top ten in the World Cup. We accompanied her on a ski mountaineering trip in Zermatt. In the process, we encountered someone who has always remained down-to-earth despite all her victories and fame. We put the skins on our touring skis and set off. Aufdenblatten sets the pace, but she goes easy on us, allowing us to enjoy the beautiful, snow-covered landscape. Soon we are far off the beaten track, on a route that takes us through a forest and up to the top of a knoll. As we look down on Zermatt, the former skier begins to sing the village’s praises. It means so much to her, she says: ‘I’ve been on the move my whole life, so Zermatt is incredibly important to me – it’s my home. When I think of the village, I am overcome by a warm feeling.’ She is also proud of the locals: ‘They are hard-working people who had good business acumen from the very start.’ Transforming a small, simple mountain village, as Zermatt once was, located at the end of a remote mountain valley, into such a successful tourist destination is definitely something to be proud of. Zermatt’s success isn’t only related to the presence of the Matterhorn, she says. 52

TRAVEL GUIDE

As is probably the case with most professional sportspeople, a common theme throughout Fränzi Aufdenblatten’s life has been ambition. ‘For better or for worse,’ she says, laughing. ‘I like to win even to this day. Winning is an intoxicating feeling. If you’ve invested a lot of time and effort, you are allowed to enjoy your victories.’ However, she is also familiar with the other side of the coin – defeat. During her professional career as a skier, she had to learn how to cope with losing. ‘Sport is a great teacher in this respect.’ To this day, Aufdenblatten is glad to have learned these lessons as they help her a lot in her work. ‘They have made me more robust and helped me to cope with the times when things aren’t going so well.’ Whereas her life as a professional sportswoman was a constant challenge, both physical and mental, today she also likes to relax and enjoy herself. ‘I love going to a posh hotel,’ she says. Her understanding of the term luxury is flexible, however. Good, simple food at a mountain lodge or on a ski mountaineering trip is also a kind of luxury for her. Fränzi Aufdenblatten has remained an extremely approachable person – a friendly, down-to-earth woman from Zermatt, despite all her success.

Fränzi Aufdenblatten: Despite all her successes, she always kept her feet on the ground.

INFORMATION ABOUT SKI MOUNTAINEERING IN THE ZERMATT REGION

– zermatters.ch

THE ULTIMATE PLEASURE

FALSTAFF IST HÖCHSTER GENUSS

Falstaff is wine, cuisine, lifestyle & travel. The premium magazine with the highest standards for excellent journalism, style and design.

Falstaff ist Wein, Kulinarik, Lifestyle & Genuss-Reisen. Ein High-End-Magazin mit hohem journalistischem Niveau und einem besonderen Anspruch an Stil, Ästhetik und Design.

Get toSie know us at: unter: Lernen uns kennen falstaff.com/abo shop.falstaff.ch @falstaff.magazin 54

THE ALCHEMY OF TRAVEL

LOW ENERGY AND MOOD SWINGS

WORDS THOMAS GARMS

Breakfast is the most important meal of the day. It can improve concentration, attention span and cognitive functions. It stabilises blood sugar levels, which can help to prevent periods of low energy and mood swings, especially if it is rich in fibre, protein, healthy fats and vitamins. It also answers one of life’s central questions – how to gently but firmly revive the spirits in the morning. The best method is with the delicious scent of a freshly brewed café crème, rich in antioxidants, which are thought to have a number of health benefits. Greeting the new day at the hotel with sufficient time – at least an hour – and in appropriate attire, is an expression of serenity, style and maturity, correct in the assumption that the cultivated individual should never be caught wolfing down a croissant in a jogging suit as they hurry along the corridor to the lift. Everything gets off to a smooth start. Daily newspapers of varying provenance and quality await in the entrance area, you are shown to a suitable table and after a few minutes, freshly pressed juice arrives together with your hot drink in the very finest porcelain. A lovingly puttogether bossa nova compilation plays quietly in the background. Just as an étagère adorned with prosciutto crudo, Appenzeller cheese, pickled gherkins and crab salad is being offered, disaster strikes. Dragging his rattling suitcase behind him, the intruder slings his coat over the back of a chair, pulls out his mobile phone, and proceeds to loudly coordinate train connections and appointments while indiscriminately piling scrambled egg, bacon and

slices of melon on his plate at the buffet. On the way back to his table, he shouts his drinks order to the service staff. In three minutes he has devoured his breakfast, downed his coffee, ordered a taxi, answered an e-mail and stuffed a chocolate bar into his coat pocket for later. Why do people do this to themselves? One can safely presume that this isn’t part of the host’s offering or concept. Turning up in the breakfast room with your luggage, then opening your laptop and quickly adding the finishing touches to your PowerPoint presentation betrays a regrettable lack of style and consideration for others. Even people with fast-paced working lives should never give the impression that they aren’t in control of their time or that they are somehow on the run. Poor time management is a sign of a crude disposition. It's a joy to get up earlier in order to leave sufficient time for breakfast. After all, good hotels generally offer a wealth of lovingly prepared dishes that enable guests to switch effortlessly between different forms of enjoyment or ways of living. Be it home-made sour cherry jam, walnut bread, eggs Benedict, champagne, mango, papaya, granola, smoked eel, miso soup or vanilla quark, every culture is catered to and every wish met, however unusual it may be – from kombucha tea, to a shot of ginger and turmeric, to freshly 55

prepared peanut butter through to whole selections of lactose and gluten-free products. Which doesn’t mean that you have to eat everything, of course. But you should allow yourself to be spoiled. The life experience of the connoisseur shows that there will still be plenty of time to tackle the day’s projects and obligations. Holding phone calls, negotiations or job interviews with a mouthful of egg and a spoon in your hand – heaven forbid! A real lady or gentleman does not do that. Good manners, worldly wisdom and cultivated taste in material things are what distinguish the true connoisseur. It’s better to wander around surveying the buffet, order a glass of curative water or round off your breakfast with a double espresso than to spend your time hastily scrolling through your social media accounts. Refinement, style and serenity are the order of the day at luxury hotels. Taking breakfast in your scruffiest clothes is disrespectful towards both the ambience and the kitchen staff. The breakfast room is a place for proper footwear (not bathing shoes), smart attire and freshly brushed teeth. And what is most important is to take the necessary time for meals so as to properly offset the burden of everyday life. Until then, the guest is well within their rights to stubbornly refuse any demands the world may place on them.

5 questions

NATI FELLI Owner & General Manager, Guarda Golf Hotel & Residences, Crans Montana WORDS MARTIN HOCH PHOTO NICO SCHAERER

When you talk about Valais, you often refer to it as paradise – why? There are only a few places that have so much going for them. One extremely interesting factor in this day and age is freedom of movement – the feeling of being safe at any time of night or day. This is something we take for granted in Switzerland. For many of my guests, however, it is the greatest luxury there is. If you gave your best friend an insider tip on things to experience here, what would it be? I would go for a walk with her and have a little picnic en route somewhere. Then we would go shopping. We live in a village with only 6,000 inhabitants, surrounded by the most beautiful mountain landscape, and at the same time we have the most fantastic, luxurious shops in the world here – a range that you might otherwise find in Paris, for example. You put a lot of loving care into your hotel. Is your passion the key to your success? It’s true that I have been following my passion since the very beginning. It is in every detail of the hotel. At the same time, however, I never forget that passion isn’t the only thing it takes to be successful. You also have to be single-minded and determined. I’m not ashamed to say that I am extremely ambitious and strict with myself at times.

You have an open personality and are in tune with the times – what do today’s guests look for when they visit a luxury hotel? Firstly, it is important to mention that, to get a sense of this, you have to be reading, listening and learning all the time, trying to understand what people like. That’s why I regularly travel to a wide variety of places – wherever my guests come from. We have to be aware of the guest’s needs and give him or her an experience that is as personalised as possible. This can only be done, however, if we know exactly what each guest likes. My guests shouldn’t have to worry about anything – they should always know that we are taking care of everything. We never give No as an answer because our guests want to feel as if everything is possible. What is the biggest compliment guests can make to you when they check out of your hotel? When they tell me that they were so happy with their stay that they’d like to come again. Or when guests say that they felt as comfortable as they did at home. I also love it when children tell me that they don’t want to leave. The happiness of the people who come to my hotel – be they old or young – is what gives me the energy to keep going. – guardagolf.com

A CAPITAL DELIGHT While politicians flock to the Bundeshaus, our beauty expert is drawn to another one of the capital’s attractions, and she’s ready to cast her vote on Bern’s top spa at the Schweizerhof Hotel. Quiet, everybody, there’s a beauty session underway! WORDS STEFFI HIDBER

Having been picked up by a luxury limousine, a zippy electric car and even a horse-drawn carriage, the transfer from the train station to the spa hotel I’d chosen has never been quite as short and direct as arriving at the Hotel Schweizerhof Bern & Spa. Part of the Katara Hospitality owned Bürgenstock Collection, this legend of Swiss hospitality can look back at over 160 years of history and is located directly opposite Bern’s main station. On the hot, late-summer day of my visit, all it takes is literally a few steps until I can duck into the cool shade of the arcade and enter the hotel. This is a special visit for me, not only because I’ve been wanting to check out the Schweizerhof spa for ages, but also because I’d managed to convince my lovely mother, a sprightly 78-year-old, to join me for a mother-daughter trip with almost zero travel stress, thanks to her first-class upgrade of our train tickets (you never quite grow out of saying,‘Thanks, mum!’). Boasting an impressive 99 rooms, all elegantly outfitted by interior designer Maria Lafiadis, the Schweizerhof is spread over what were once three different buildings, but now make a cohesive, luxuriously-carpeted single unit. Our ju nior suite on the fifth floor was quiet, comfortable and allowed for a good night’s sleep, as well as enough room

for the many outfits and beauty products we had brought along for our short stay. But first, we had made dinner reservations – and honestly, as a beauty lover who also enjoys good food, I was very much looking forward to a meal at Jack’s Brasserie. The historic restaurant with its fin-de-siècle atmosphere is wonderfully luxurious, and we felt truly spoiled by the unobtrusive staff, who – on this relatively quiet, weekday evening in late summer, took their time commending the day’s specials, tending to our needs (why, a second glass of the recommended Crémant sounds lovely!) and even having a quick chat with Head Chef Wolfgang Schmidt. My mother, after charmingly insisting that a Wienerschnitzel would be far too big for her to manage alone, did an impressive job in nearly finishing her ladies’ size cutlet, agreeing with many other guests that it may be one of Switzerland’s best, while my glazed monkfish was a fresh, tangy delight. A quick nightcap up on Schweizerhof ’s Sky Terrace, the modern rooftop restaurant and bar, is simply a must, featuring panoramic views, and in the wintertime, guests can enjoy a cosy raclette here, wrapped up in warm blankets. Oh, speaking of warm blankets … I’ve got to get ready for the main reason for my stay! 59

If Zurich’s Paradeplatz is famed for concealing an underground Aladdin’s treasure trove of gold, then for me, the Bahnhofplatz in Bern simply hides one of the city’s best-equipped spas. An impressive 500 sqm in size, the hotel spa was opened in 2011 and includes three treatment rooms, a hammam, a beautifully laid-out Finnish sauna, and perhaps most surprisingly, an indoor pool with bubble loungers, experience showers and jacuzzi jets. As massage therapist Liviu was already expecting me, I made a note to come and enjoy the facilities the following evening – which I can warmly recommend, as the spa is open to hotel guests until 9 p.m. After my full-body massage with honey (see my Signature Treatment Tip), I’m handed over to facialist Vivien for a uniquely relaxing facial with the spa’s chosen organic beauty brand Pharmos Natur. As part of a 75-minute treatment, the facial includes a massage with freshly-cut aloe vera gel, leaving my face as rested and glowing as my (newlyreleased) back feels.

STEFFI’S SIGNATURE TREATMENT TIP

Fascia Honey Massage – CHF 200 (75 min)

If you’re a fan of a proper kneadthrough from head to toe, then you’re in for a treat! Massage therapist Liviu immediately sees my knotted-up shoulders and lower back and starts by releasing the superficial fascia of my back, applying warmed honey (collected from the hotel’s own beehives on the roof) and gently pulling on the drying honey, which smells lovely and feels even better. After I’ve consented to some trigger point, deep tissue work, a relaxing full-body massage with warm, black sesame oil follows. And Liviu wasn’t joking: not only can I feel the immediate effects the next day, but am rewarded with a pain-free back and zero tension headaches for days to come.

All-natural ingredients, such as fresh aloe vera, make the facial treatments with Pharmos Natur a clean, green treat.

BEAUTY TIPS

LUXURIOUS TOUCHES

La Prairie Skin Caviar Luxe Cream (50 ml), approx. CHF 647.00 BEAUTY HIGHLIGHTS CURATED BY STEFFI HIDBER

A new season filled with exciting beauty treats awaits you and we’re thrilled about the innovative formulas and exquisite scents it will bring! Focusing on excellent ingredients and high-tech innovations, these new launches are all about the luxury of treating yourself to the very best. 1 – Guerlain’s talented Makeup Creative Director Violette has dedicated an entire collection to easyto-use, natural shades that flatter anyone, including flattering new Rouge G shades in very collectable, refillable cases. 2 – With this ultra-luxurious moisturiser, La Prairie has remastered an icon that can also be enjoyed during a facial at the newly opened Maison La Prairie on Zurich’s Bahnhofstrasse. 3 – Swiss newcomer brand reBELLE stands for smart, pure ingredients and eco-friendly packaging. Its newly launched tinted moisturiser contains targeted antiaging ingredients and UV protection and is perfect for a natural, everyday finish. 4 – They may look strange, but once you take these glass cryo facial ritual spoons out of the freezer and use them for a soothing, smoothing facial massage, you’ll be sufficiently glowy that you’ll never want to be without them! 5 – This holistic niche perfume brand has a radical approach to scents, using only highly concentrated natural oils. I’m bewitched by Sacred Water, a beautiful, harmonious and elegant scent that lasts and lasts.

Guerlain Rouge G Naturally Nude Lipsticks (12 shades), approx. CHF 47.00

3 reBELLE Beauty The Beauty Balm LSF 25 (30 ml), approx. CHF 50.00

The Harmonist Sacred Water Eau de Parfum (50 ml), approx. CHF 240.00

Clean Beauty Concept Cryo Facial Ritual Spoons. CHF 90.00

suite talk WORDS S. HOTTINGER-BEHMER PHOTOS ELENA STENESS

Lucerne is a city that whispers tales of time, where the azure waters of the eponymous lake flirt with quaint urban spires, all under the vigilant gaze of the majestic Alps. But there’s a vantage point, an apex from which this narrative unfolds most splendidly: the grand suites at the Mandarin Oriental Palace, Luzern. Since 1906, this iconic Belle Époque jewel has presided over Lucerne, catching the shimmering reflections from the adjacent lake. Once a stalwart sentinel, after an extensive facelift, it has rebirthed as Mandarin Oriental Palace, Luzern. A paragon of contemporary elegance, it infuses Lucerne’s old-world charm with Mandarin Oriental’s signature finesse and service. As you step inside, the hotel welcomes you into a world of masterfully designed interiors. With a modern décor throughout and the embrace of Lake Lucerne’s

breathtaking panorama, the suites, in particular, immerse guests in a polished blend of contempo-opulence. The Lake View Tower Suites located on the corners of the storied building boast bespoke artwork and a handsome colour palette of rich berry and verdant green, crafting an atmosphere of understated refinement. An expansive and airy living room beckons for relaxation and leisure, complemented by a lake-view balcony and a bathroom swathed in pristine marble. Traditional architectural nuances juxtaposed with avant-garde accents and state-of-the-art technology epitomise refined luxury at its finest. So, if Lucerne is Switzerland’s whispered tale, Mandarin Oriental’s two Lake View Tower Suites are one of its most poignant chapters – a luxurious perch that pays the perfect homage to this most picturesque of cities, steeped in modern sophistication.

reasons to leave the suite:

1. MINAMO RESTAURANT

At Minamo, Chef Toshiro San immerses guests in traditional Japanese omakase – an elevated performance of culinary skill. Diners can savour the essence of Japan amidst Swiss elegance with every bite from the seasonally curated menu, exquisite sakes, Japanese whiskies, and premier international wines. 2. MUSEUM OF ART

Nestled within the iconic KKL Lucerne, the city’s Museum of Art offers visitors a rendezvous with rotating exhibitions. Dive into Lucerne’s rich tapestry of art and culture at this imposing venue that also plays host to the worldrenowned Lucerne Festival. 3. LAKESIDE LIDO

Embrace the allure of Lake Lucerne’s waters at the Seebad Luzern in summer. This wooden structure, floating gently on the water, promises sun-soaked moments and rosy sunsets. Sip some rosé, feel the pulsating beats as dusk approaches, and let the city’s twinkling lights cast their spell.

FACES Jahresabo 8 Ausgaben für CHF/€ 54.–

EINSTEIN AND THE SWISS GOVERNMENT WORDS BEATRICE LESSI

Once upon a time, the magnificent Bellevue Palace, in the heart of the Swiss capital, Bern, was sold for 1 Swiss Franc. You might think: what a shame I couldn’t buy it myself! But the Swiss did find a clever way to do it, and therefore today, they technically own it. A smart move – maybe it’s not a coincidence that Einstein used to live five minutes from here! 65

One of the crystal chandeliers of the magnificent lobby – the stained glass ceiling with its dome and natural light steals the scene.

Let’s take a tour of this beautiful building, which is also the official guesthouse of the Swiss government. At the end, I’ll finish the 1 Swiss Franc story. We start in the elegant neoclassical lobby with its magnificent stained glass window on the ceiling. Politicians, diplomats, and rock stars from all over the world regularly gather here (when I visited, my suite had just been occupied by Guns ‘n’ Roses) and make history while enjoying superb views of the Bernese Alps. The famous collection of silver frames with photos and autographs of well-known guests is a fun contrast to the DJ equipment in the grand room. After having checked in, the hotel General Manager, Urs Buehrer, smiles and explains that yes, things do happen here before the press or anybody else hears about them. He also tells me that the Bellevue Palace is above all a hub, a perfect place that enables you to come and go to different parts of Switzerland, and therefore the ideal accommodation for those who want to see a lot. He has a full programme prepared for me, but first of all I need to check my room. When I enter the newly refurbished suite overlooking the Parliament, I immediately notice two things: binoculars and chocolate. A bear on the chocolate bar represents the symbol of the city. I check the spectacular views of the Old City on the Aare river that are a UNESCO World Heritage site, and catch a glimpse of everyday life between their brick roofs and windows. On the other side of the room, there’s a big window where I can see the Swiss flag proudly located on top of the Parliament building. Then I hit the shower and check all details in the bathroom. I adore its beautiful, low-tech style, also because it’s so easy to understand how it works. The amount of water is perfect, the temperature easy to regulate, the entrance and exit super comfortable, with a big enough door where not a drop of water escapes. Molton Brown toiletries smell divine, and the mirror, decorated with fresh flowers, features those flattering lateral lights that make everybody look 10 years younger.

´IT IS THE OLDEST WORKING WATCH IN THE WORLD AND I DIDN’T EXPECT IT TO BE SO HUGE.´

SEASONAL PICK

It's time to start with the programme prepared by the Bellevue Palace, a private tour through the old town, with its typical sandstone buildings, the many traditional fountains and famous arcades. It was re-built after the big fire in 1405. We stop at Einstein’s house, where he developed his Theory of Relativity. I didn’t even know that happened here and I love this leap into the past. Then we take a look at the charming shops, so different from most city centres because there are no major chains in sight. After a few more landmarks, I am given a key and told to open a door near the Clock Tower, which is one of Bern’s most recognisable symbols. Every full hour, struck by a large clockwork-operated hammer, passers-by see a gilded figure in full harness moving its arm to strike it. I climb the narrow stairs of the medieval tower and start to see the massive mechanism from inside. It is the oldest working watch in the world and I didn’t expect it to be so huge. The ticking sound of the big iron wheels and the cannon pendulum is mesmerising. It was forged in situ (you can still see the fireplace where every single piece was made) and makes you

Arcades and Renaissance fountains are a typical feature in the Old City.

stare and listen in awe. When the clock strikes, a magic dance begins from the top and arrives at the other side of the room – a chain reaction that finally makes the outer figures turn. And if that’s not special enough, a wooden ladder takes you up to the most beautiful views from a window I’ve ever seen, on top of the city. From here, you can hear people pleasantly chatting in the street, it’s incredible – I feel like the Queen of Bern, observing it from above. I go back to the hotel fascinated and enchanted. Evening arrives quickly, so it’s time for our first dinner at Noumi, where Bern eats to an urban nomad beat, and the open kitchen offers world food ideal for combining and sharing. Urs takes good care of his guests, and I think that makes a difference – everybody feels seen and heard, and welcome in the warm atmosphere. After a solid night’s sleep and a delicious coffee, I try the creamiest scrambled eggs in Switzerland, and get ready for the second programme – urban nature. Since there are so many possibilities for things to do from here, the Bellevue Palace prepared some brochures with tips and ideas, each one with beautiful pictures and easy explanations of places and activities. There are tons of things to do in areas like the Three Lakes region, the Emmental (I’m sure you’ll know I mean the place and not the cheese), the medieval town of Gruyère, Château d’Oex – the capital of hot air balloons, the gigantic rock arena of Creux-du-Van, traffic-free locations like Gstaad, the vineyard trail in La Neuveville, and many more. I just didn’t realise how much nature you can enjoy in and around Bern. My itinerary starts from Thun, which I now think is the most underrated city in the country. Walking around, I imagine I can pick one villa and have it for free, and that I have to give a prize to the best garden. It becomes impossible. Strolling on, I see surfers in wetsuits, attached to one of the traditional wooden bridges with a rope. Flowers and weeping willows frame romantic spots with crystal clear waters. A 360-degree panorama mixes green and beautiful architecture. Finally, I go to the harbour and catch a boat to Spiez, which is another pleasant surprise. A walk to its medieval castle reveals an almost Mediterranean landscape dotted with vineyards and nestled between the Swiss Alps. Snowy peaks as a backdrop complete the idyllic scene.

Time to go back to the Bellevue Palace for a quick stop at the gym, and then dinner. I like to think that Queen Elizabeth and Che Guevara trained here, but the staff is not giving anything away. One thing is sure – the decor is new. I can see that from the Technogym equipment and the modern design. There are three huge artsy-looking apples that fit harmoniously to the light wooden slats and views over the red-brick roofs of the old town. The place is so stylish, it’s not even fair to all the other hotel gyms in the world. Dinner at brasserie VUE is cosy yet elegant, products are locally sourced, and in summer the terrace is the place to be. I choose the special of the day and enjoy the French flavours combined with a Swiss touch. When I check out the next morning, Urs Buehrer (who seems to know instinctively which guest is in and which guest is out at any moment) comes to say goodbye, and tells me the end of the story about the hotel. It happened during the Cold War, when the family who originally owned the Bellevue Palace decided to sell it, and the Soviets offered to buy it to turn it into their Embassy. The hotel is literally attached to the Ministry of Defence, and a few metres from the Parliament building, so the Swiss government didn’t like the idea one bit and asked the Swiss National Bank to acquire a majority stake to save it from the foreign takeover. About 10 years later, the Swiss National Bank wanted to sell the hotel to the Swiss government – after all, hospitality wasn’t its main interest. But it had kept it without investing any money or doing any renovation, so the government refused to pay, and only after some negotiating, managed to get the property for the symbolic value of 1 Swiss Franc. Fair and square, with Swiss flair. So come and enjoy the beautiful lounges in the heart of Switzerland – owned by the people, kept with intelligence, and managed with charm.

´FAIR AND SQUARE, WITH SWISS FLAIR.´

The Bellevue Palace is set in the heart of Bern City, beside the Parliament Buildings. 68

RUNNER’S TIPS WORDS BEATRICE LESSI

BERN RUNSEEING TOUR

A nearly 10-kilometre runseeing tour of central Bern, including the Inner City (old town), with its main squares and fountains, the Weisses Quarter, the affluent Schwarzes Quarter, and Kirchenfeld (the museum district). There are fountains everywhere, perfect for making a short stop to drink some water. KLEE MUSEUM

Enjoy the spectacular architecture of this popular museum, recognisable by its delicate waves. Go around the museum, continuing until you reach the expansive green areas of the neighbouring Kleine Allmend Park and Grosse Allmend Park, and end at the Wankdorf sports complex, which has a great track. AARE RUN

As all studies confirm: moving or running near water makes you happier. So why not go around the Aare river and enjoy the surrounding urban nature, continuing on to the Bern Animal Park, Dählhölzli and the bear park, or even further – you can choose whether you want to go for the shorter or the longer Aare run. SURROUNDED BY TREES

The Bremer Loop in the Bremgarten forest – north of the city – has different jogging and Nordic walking routes ranging from 1.9 to 17.3 kilometres. RUN AND EXERCISE

If you choose the BärnParcours Altenberg, you can do a workout while running: a 4.2- kilometre jogging route with outdoor exercise stations. 69

the view of tim weiland WORDS MARTIN HOCH PHOTOS NICO SCHAERER

The world is changing. That has always been the case. And the luxury hotel industry has often been at the forefront of developments when it comes to innovation. Just think of hotel pioneer Johannes Badrutt, who installed Switzerland’s first electrical system above his Kulm hotel in St. Moritz, creating a furore with his festively illuminated Belle Époque halls. However, new topics can also be challenging. How can a luxury hotel be environmentally sustainable? How should a luxury hotel approach the topic of food waste? After all, no sacrifices can be made in terms of quality or comfort. We accompanied the General Manager of The Alpina Gstaad, Tim Weiland, on a trip to the Gstaad ski resort, where he showed us an example of how a luxury hotel can tackle such issues.

´IF YOU’VE EVER GROWN SOMETHING IN YOUR GARDEN, YOU WILL UNDERSTAND HOW MUCH WORK GOES INTO EVERY ITEM OF FOOD.´ 72

The sun is shining and the pistes are in top condition. Tim Weiland is visibly happy. He glides down the slopes at high speed like a man who does nothing else the whole winter long. And yet he tells us that this is his first day’s skiing this season – and it’s already the start of March. What is more, today’s skiing isn’t purely recreational. Weiland is here to show us The Alpina Gstaad’s food truck. The philosophy behind the food truck is focused on sustainability. We encounter it at Vorderes Eggli. The menu features things like meatballs and vegetarian empanadas. Although clearly delicious, are these dishes really true to the spirit of The Alpina Gstaad? Weiland explains: ‘The concept of an on-piste food truck is allowed to differ from the culinary concept of haute cuisine. It makes a luxury hotel a little more accessible, and brings The Alpina Gstaad to the people.’ The dishes aren’t just delicious; there is another idea behind them, too. For the vegetarian empanadas, for example, Martin Göschel’s kitchen team uses vegetables that are of flawless quality but can no longer be processed in the hotel kitchen because of their shape. It also makes meatballs from pieces of meat that are qualitatively excellent but less appealing optically. Tim Weiland is a general manager who thinks a lot about every topic. He calls it mindfulness. It’s about considering what’s behind the things we encounter, such as food, he explains. He believes that the luxury hotel industry needs a rethink. ‘You can turn a 400-gram potato into two sophisticated creations each weighing 100 grams each and throw the rest away,’ he says. ‘Or you can ask yourself whether the leftovers can be put to good use, too? After all, the flavour is still there.’ Having taken a seat in the lounge chairs next to the food truck, we bask in the glorious sunshine and enjoy our delicious food. This example shows that making a contribution in terms of food waste does not impair the quality of a luxury hotel. Quite the opposite, in fact: The Alpina Gstaad food truck is proving extremely popular among skiers and snowboarders. Tim Weiland, Martin Göschel and the kitchen team are killing two birds with one stone. The food truck is an excellent, appealing way of marketing the hotel and it also helps the hotel kitchen to reduce food waste. 73

THE LUXURY WAY

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C L I F F O R D ’ S M U S T- H AV E S

COME AS YOU ARE

A sip of sunshine Clicquot, the visionary force behind this legendary champagne house, embodied courage and entrepreneurial spirit. Like a sip of sunshine captured in the bottle with the iconic yellow label, this champagne is a perfect companion to celebrate life in all its fascinating facets. – veuveclicquot.com

WORDS CLIFFORD LILLEY

The search for the perfect winter sports destination ends here and if it’s action you’re after, this is THE place to be. Upbeat but down-played. Great ski pistes, a fabulous snowpark, plus gastrodelights, raclette and local wine, cool cafés and bars, not to mention the awesome shopping and stunning scenery. And then there’s the legendary Ski World Cup where the best female skiers in the world meet on the stunning Mont-Lachaux piste.

LOOP collection Practicality meets consciousness with reusable cups from the Nespresso LOOP collection. Each cup is crafted with up to 30% recovered coffee husks elegantly applied on the outer wall of the cup.

A casy place in Crans-Montana

– nespresso.com

Did you know that the name CASY comes from the 2 owners’ names – Caroline and Sylvain? Caroline takes care of the service in the restaurant and Sylvain is the kitchen chef. When going to the Casy, ask Caroline which coffee she recommends, she will be happy to offer her latest favourite from the Origins range of Nespresso Professional Coffee.

English styling

The world’s finest knitwear! The superb quality of John Smedley is THE insider’s tip for the best quality and styling out there. Talk about classy… Take it from me, I wouldn’t be caught dead without it! Available at selected stores and online throughout Switzerland.

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Here are my latest tips to ensure you know what’s what and where to find it.

Ready for winter Be prepared in these classic calf skin boots HORSE for ladies in style. – hermes.com

Step by step

Contemporary art

The profiled hiking sole guarantees a secure grip on snow and ice, the leather is hydrophobic and promises high water resistance. Design and colour contrast give the shoe its cult look. The lambskin lining absorbs the foot moisture and thus provides excellent protection against the cold. As with all Kandahar shoes, the insole made of cork and lambswool also provides warmth from below.

Take time off to visit the Fondation Opale in neighbouring Lens housing the only contemporary art collection dedicated to the promotion of Aboriginal art in Europe. A cultural highlight in the stunning Alpine landscape. With a delightful restaurant overlooking the lake.

– kandahar.swiss

– fondationopale.ch

A new shop in town Visit KA/NOA on the main street and find your perfect hoodie. Warm, soft and the sporty adventurous best companion. – kanoaitalia.com

Tonto The felt tipi made of 100% wool creates an adventurous atmosphere and serves as a cosy retreat at the same time. It’s easy to set up and comes with a zip – in case you take it with you on your travels. – petandco.ch

Place to be

Claudio Del Principe and the sensual way he writes about food are irresistible. His surprising, amusing, and profound texts strike a chord with many of us – entertainment and opulence aimed at people who appreciate good food.

A luxurious winter setting in the heart of Basel: Maison Ruinart’s elegant pop-up on the terrace of Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois – the place to be in Basel. Enjoy a glass of Ruinart champagne paired with oysters and shellfish: a match made in heaven for an elevated dining experience. Discover various Maison Ruinart’s emblematic cuvées and indulge in a festive moment with your loved ones.

– at-verlag.ch

– ruinart.com

A punto

C L I F F O R D ’ S M U S T- H AV E S

Take care of your skin Citronella, with SPF 30 sun protection, is enriched with aloe vera and olive, as well as anti-inflammatory components such as shea butter and lavender. It contains the natural repellents citronella and pelargonium. Suitable for all skin types, including acne-prone skin.

Sparkling diamonds, endlessly turning Modern, pure and unparalleled – the GIRELLO SKYLINE Rotating Ring draws on bold lines to create new perspectives. A homage to the goldsmith’s delicate craftsmanship and the most precious materials – made of 950 platinum with 43 diamonds in princess cut.

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Atlantic Blue, Lagoon Green and Terracotta Following the spectrum from ocean to earth, OMEGA’s Seamaster Aqua Terra Shade collection draws its unique tones directly from nature’s palette. Choose from two polished stainless-steel case sizes—38 mm or 34 mm—each equipped with a Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement. – omegawatches.com

Cristiana Vegan Dress to impress with this extremely chic and classy vegan bag. The Swiss brand Tondini embodies the very essence of luxury. Created from high class materials and of a superb design, the Cristiana Vegan Shoulder Bag is THE object of desire, the ultimate in style. – studiotondini.com

Pen of the year

Cheeky & funny

Grimm’s fairy tales reinterpreted. Inspiring comic and storybook with anarchistic humour, not only for children. Author Boris Zatko lives and works as a freelance author and illustrator in Basel. He has been obsessed with storytelling since early childhood. – oberstebrink.de

No chance of writer’s block with this magnificent fountain pen from the house of Faber-Castell! Their consistent standard of perfection in creating timeless quality over and over again is no more evident than in the exquisite design of this Old Egypt limited edition – the pen of the year. – graf-von-faber-castell.ch

Entdecken Sie mit uns die Welt des Genusses.

4x im Jahr erhältlich!

EDITION

great flavours You can cook, or you can create works of art. You can put ingredients together, or you can work them into perfect harmony with skilled craftsmanship. You can go about your daily life, or you can live each day in all its intensity. The choice is yours.

CHEF’S PORTRAIT

born to cook At the age of just four, Yannick Crepaux had already prepared a dessert with oranges all on his own. Today he cooks in the Valais mountains at the very highest level – and he loves to give his dishes a hint of freshness by adding citrus fruits.

WORDS ALEX KUEHN PHOTOS NICO SCHAERER

´THERE IS NOTHING I ENJOY AS MUCH AS WORKING WITH GOODQUALITY PRODUCTS, SEARCHING FOR INTERESTING FLAVOUR COMBINATIONS AND CAREFULLY COOKING MY RECIPES.´

t the start of our meeting, Yannick Crepaux apologises: he’s never entirely comfortable in interviews because he doesn’t like to be the centre of attention. Given the choice, he would much rather be at work in his kitchen. An hour and a half later, we’re still talking, and not a single second of that time has been boring. The head chef at LeMontBlanc restaurant in Hotel LeCrans in Crans-Montana isn’t just an excellent chef with a flair for lively, elegant dishes; he’s also a very pleasant man to chat to. Once he has overcome his initial shyness, his eyes light up as he speaks of his love for good food and recalls memories from his childhood: ‘When I was four-and-a-half years old,’ he says, ‘I prepared a dish all on my own for the first time: the classic dessert orange givrée, for which you have to scoop out an orange and then fill it with orange sorbet. Even before then, I was always at my mum’s or my grandma’s side in the kitchen, and even though it was very rare, I did not like it when they served food from a tin.’ It was always clear to him that he would become a chef, and if asked today to name an alternative profession he could have gone into, he wouldn’t have an answer. ‘To be completely honest, I just don’t know. There is nothing I enjoy as much as working with good-quality products, searching for interesting flavour combinations and carefully cooking my recipes.’ Yannick Crepaux has now been working at LeCrans for 20 years – for the first 17, he was the right-hand man of Pierre Crepaud, and on Pierre’s departure he became head chef himself.

What has changed since he took over? ‘The biggest difference is probably that I tend to add an Asian touch more often and that I love working with spices,’ Crepaux explains. ‘Of course extremely hot dishes would be out of place in a fine dining restaurant like LeMontBlanc, but there’s nothing wrong with a little tingle on the tongue. Used sparingly, Tasmanian pepper is a wonderful thing, for example. In addition to its spicy taste, it also has sweet and fruity notes – it’s just great! And then there’s Espelette pepper, a variety of chilli from the Basque region of France that isn’t especially hot but is very aromatic, fruity and slightly smoky.’ Alongside spice, another factor that is very important to Yannick Crepaux when composing his dishes is freshness. An example is his breast of veal, which he simmers in miso for eight hours and seasons with lemon grass and leaves of kaffir lime. If you think stewed dishes are dull, you haven’t tried Crepaux’s creations yet. The fresh touch in his complex and vibrant dishes usually stems from citrus fruits – they are the absolute favourite of this culinary artist from near Paris. ‘Citrus fruits breathe life into a dish – they lift white meat to another level just as effectively as fish and shellfish,’ he says. Whereas at home we normally just sprinkle a few drops of lemon on our fish, LeMontBlanc head chef Crepaux serves a lemon, tarragon and raspberry sorbet to go with his fillet of zander spiced with Indian vadouvan. After all, if you were already making orange givrée yourself as a four-year-old, your culinary career is likely to be much more virtuosic than that of the average home cook.

Yannick Crepaux likes to put the finishing touches on his dishes with various kinds of pepper. The acidity of citrus fruits also plays a key role in the Michelin-starred chef’s creations.

Nutty sweetness meets refreshing acidity and a hint of spice: Yannick Crepaux’s scallop with Granny Smith apple and Espelette pepper. The terrace at Hotel LeCrans offers spectacular views of the mountains, a place where Crepaux loves to go to recharge his batteries.

Just as delightful as the interior of LeCrans are the desserts in the gourmet restaurant – in this case a creation of sweet chestnut, tonka bean and Grand Cru chocolate.

The hotel is surrounded by forest and situated directly next to the extensive slopes of the Crans-Montana ski resort. The abundance of wood gives the rooms of LeCrans a cosy Alpine atmosphere.

Yannick Crepaux’s love of citrus fruits and Asian flavours is matched by his interest in all the things there are to discover in and around his adopted Valais home town. ‘In spring, summer and autumn, the selection is fantastic, featuring apricots, berries, mushrooms and herbs. Naturally, my options are a little limited in the winter, but I’m still able to fall back on some outstanding cheeses and top-class dried meat,’ he says. Stéphane Robyr, Crepaux’s go-to man when it comes to cheese, lives at Alp Corbyère, less than half a kilometre from the hotel. Alongside raclette cheese – which, like other preparation methods, is smoked in the LeCrans kitchen – one of Robyr’s specialities is Sérac. ‘Sérac is based on the whey of raw cow’s or goat’s milk. It has a very light, soft curd and can be put to a wide variety of uses,’ Crepaux adds. ‘Whey cheese works just as well as a filling for ravioli as it does as an accompaniment to char.’ The LeMontBlanc head chef also sources his meat from a local provider – Boucherie du Rawyl in the heart of Crans-Montana. Yannick Crepaux’s philosophy: be open-minded and buy local whenever you can. Crepaux is particularly happy when children come to his restaurant and, rather than choosing from the kids’ menu, want to eat one of the Michelin-starred grown-ups’ dishes. ‘They remind me of myself,’ he explains. ‘I was crazy about good food even as a young boy and was very interested to see what the ambitious chefs were cooking. There was one incident at a wedding that I can remember well. I was 12 years old and was supposed to be given the children’s menu, like the other kids of my age. This really annoyed me, so I kept on protesting until I was allowed to eat what the adults got.’ One of the regular guests at LeMontBlanc, Crepaux continues, is an 11-year-old boy who has been coming to the restaurant with his parents for seven years and is full of culinary curiosity. ‘He tries everything and has now developed an impressive sense of taste!’ Perhaps the boy will also one day become a Michelinstarred chef like Yannick Crepaux. 85

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CHEF’S PORTRAIT

CHEF’S FAVOURITES Le Casy

Grimentz The car-free centre of this picture-postcard Valais village is characterised by the wooden houses typical of the region, some of which are centuries old. In the summer, the façades of the historic buildings are decorated with geraniums. The specially constructed Geranium Trail features 34 different varieties of these beautiful flowers.

Les Bains de Lavey Fed by the hottest spring in Switzerland, this thermal spa offers numerous attractions for both young and old. You can float along in the current pool or relax in the jacuzzi. A sauna landscape and four steam baths complete the offering.

This modern yet cosy restaurant in Crans-Montana is the perfect place to spend an enjoyable evening with friends. The cuisine is simple but always inspiring. The menu features dishes such as Onsen egg with red wine sauce, onions, bacon and croûtons or cod with chorizo sauce, cauliflower and fried potatoes.

La Cave du Sex This rustic Alpine establishment offers fantastic views of the Rhône valley and five four-thousandmetre peaks. The culinary offering is both simple and delicious, ranging from platters of dried Valais meats to cheese platters to raclette or crispy rösti.

Le Bisse du Ro This narrow path cut into the cliff face 500 years ago for water conduits is not for the fainthearted. If you have a good head for heights, however, the views are spectacular. Parallel with the path runs a 120-metre-long suspension bridge that hangs 70 metres above the ground.

Montmartre I grew up in Paris and carry the city in my heart to this day. No district is as charming as Montmartre – it is not without good reason that the area has provided the backdrop to numerous novels and films. What could be better than wandering through the alleys of Montmartre or enjoying a glass of wine in a bistro here?

Forest of Fontainebleau When I visit my home region in France, I go to the Forest of Fontainebleau, one of the largest contiguous forested areas in Western Europe, to rest and relax. It is packed with impressive, ancient trees and a fascinating variety of plants and animals. What is more, the capital is only a little over 50 kilometres away.

WINE CELLAR

valais vines a wealth of varieties WORDS PETER KELLER

Valais is a privileged location. Switzerland’s largest wine-producing region is blessed with both ideal climatic conditions for wine-making and a fascinatingly broad range of different grape varieties and styles of wine. There’s something to suit every taste and budget, with the range spanning from moreish everyday wines to storable, high-quality crus. Sometimes, in very good years, too much wine is produced. But more and more wine makers are realising that good quality is the only way to succeed in the market. The best-known white wine is Fendant, which is made from Chasselas grapes, a widespread variety in the region. Originating from around Lake Geneva, Chasselas is a subtle grape whose neutral flavours make it the perfect ambassador for the local terroir. Light, lively and elegant, Fendant is ideal for drinks receptions. When it comes to reds, the classic Valais wine is Dôle. It is often equated with quantity over quality, but nowadays numerous vineyards allow this well-known wine to receive the necessary attention. Dôle must be made from a blend of Pinot noir, the most common red wine variety in Valais, and Gamay. For the remaining 15 per cent, additional grapes from the region are permitted, such as Merlot, Syrah, Gamaret and Diolinoir. Alongside the classic Valais wines, local wine makers are increasingly relying on specialities – namely local grapes. They are distinctive, occupy an attractive niche and provide a pleasant contrast to mainstream varieties. The most high-end white wine grape is Petite Arvine, with approximately 250 hectares of this variety being grown in the region. Petite Arvine is used to

The Complex One JOHANNISBERG, CAVE DE L’ORLAYA –––– 2022 This typical Valais wine is made from Sylvaner grapes. For this year, Mathilde Roux from Fully presents a dry, powerful and fresh Johannisberg with a pleasant length that reveals delicious scents of stone fruits, herbs and almond aromas. A good accompaniment to any meal. CHF 21 | orlaya.ch

The Rare One HUMAGNE BLANCHE CLOS DE MANGOLD, DOMAINE CORNULUS –––– 2022 This local rarity from a leading vineyard is aged in cement eggs and amphoras, resulting in a white wine with lots of tension. Characteristics: bright yellow, floral-mineral notes, dry, medium-bodied, fresh, good length. CHF 34.50 | bauraulacvins.ch

make both dry and sweet wines. Its characteristic feature is the salinity in the finish. Other exciting varieties include Heida, Humagne Blanche and exotic grapes such as Lafnetscha and Gewäss. In terms of reds, the best wines probably come from Cornalin. They are powerful with typical cherry aromas and can be stored for a long time. Cornalin is a cross between Petit Rouge and Mayolet, both originating from the neighbouring Aosta Valley. The climate in Valais is also ideal for both Humagne Rouge and high-quality global grapes such as Syrah. Our selection of five examples shows the great variety that the canton offers.

The Independent One

The Wild One

PETITE ARVINE CALCAIRE, VALENTINA ANDREI –––– 2021 Wine maker Valentina Andrei, a rising star from Valais, focuses on local varieties. With its characteristic flavours of yellow fruits and honey notes, good acidity and a salty finish that is typical for the variety, her Petite Arvine is a dry, powerful, full-bodied and long-lasting triumph. CHF 35 | valentinaandrei.ch

HUMAGNE ROUGE, MAURICE ZUFFEREY, SIERRE –––– 2022 Humagne Rouge is a wild variety that needs taming. Maurice Zufferey from Siders manages to do just that in masterful fashion. Aged in steel tanks, this still-young wine is characterised by its intense red colours and multi-layered, fruity and tangy bouquet. On the palate, it is the wine’s pleasant density and fine tannins that stand out. A delicate wine that goes well with wild game dishes. CHF 23 | mauricezuffery.ch

The Noble One SYRAH LES BERNUNES, CAVE CALOZ, MIÈGE –––– 2022 This noble grape is perfect for the warm climate of Valais. Sandrine Caloz ages the wine in a steel tank and deliberately refrains from using wood. The result is a deep-coloured wine with scents of dark fruits, floral notes (violets) and peppery tones. The Syrah is powerful, juicy and relatively long-lasting. CHF 24 | cavecaloz.ch

ET TOU

D E L U

WINDS OF CHANGE ON LAKE LUCERNE 90

WORDS PATRICIA BRÖHM

The region between Lucerne and Vitznau is a hotspot for creative concepts with a unique signature – Asian-inspired and using the very best Swiss products, from free-range pork to Alpine Sbrinz cheese.

A grand hotel reinvents itself – the magnificent Belle Époque façade from 1906 remains, but in the form of the Mandarin Oriental Palace, Lucerne got what is very much an international-style hotel. The same applies to the cuisine. To see a man like Executive Chef Gilad Peled, forged in the top London restaurants of Gordon Ramsay and Clare Smyth, working in tranquil central Switzerland would have been unthinkable just a few years ago. But he found the job attractive. As soon as you take a seat in the fine Colonnade dining restaurant, you understand exactly why. It is an exceptionally stylish setting, with historic mosaic flooring, high ceilings and laboriously restored marble columns. Outside, the lake and the surrounding mountains provide a spectacular backdrop. But as soon as the exquisitely fresh, premium-quality crab is served, all that is forgotten. Peled combines the crab with crunchy cucumber, delicate, iodine-rich kombu algae and Ossetra caviar, serving it on the very finest white porcelain and with a decorative garland of herbs. One of his signature dishes is the wild-caught turbot, served on a bed of fregola sarda with shellfish, Swiss chard and deliciously aromatic algae beurre blanc. Peled’s Appenzell lamb is fried to perfection and presented in a purist, Mediterranean style with purple artichokes, Nocellara olives and a complex jus. It’s important that guests leave some space for cheese, as Colonnade maintains the good old tradition of the cheese trolley. The selection is excellent, featuring mature Gruyère, Alpine Sbrinz and Stanser Fladen. With 500 carefully chosen wines, 100 of them from Switzerland, the wine menu is also top notch. Austrian head sommelier Moritz Dresing knows them all like the back of his hand – his recommendations can always be relied upon.

A refreshing seaside speciality: to start off the meal, MO Executive Chef Gilad Peled serves crab with cucumber, kombu and Kristal caviar.

MANDARIN ORIENTAL PALACE

colonnade

minamo Feeling a little like a very exclusive member’s club, the elegant wooden bar can accommodate a maximum of eight guests per evening. They get to watch live while chef Toshiro prepares his eight-course menu, which changes every day. Leaning back in their comfortable wooden chairs, guests can watch up close as the chef shaves bonito flakes, dices kingfish or brushes his perfectly formed nigiri with soya sauce that has matured for four years. There is no menu. Instead, the Japanese tradition of omakase applies – guests receive a surprise selection of dishes based on availability and the chef’s preferences. It soon becomes clear that Toshiro San has another very important skill in addition to his culinary expertise. Having been raised by a Japanese mother in Berlin, he is able to communicate fluently with guests and might even impart a few secrets of Japanese cuisine over the course of the evening. The menu starts with chawanmushi, a Japanese egg custard dish with an almost silky consistency draped with shiitake mushrooms marinated in soya. At the heart of the sequence of dishes are the nigiri, every single one of which is formed by hand à la minute. For his sushi rice, the chef mixes the rice varieties Koshihikari and Nanatsubushi. He tops the delicious rice morsels with the finest produce that the seas have to offer, from Lostallo salmon to extra-fresh red prawns to hiramasa kingfish. The main course consists of grilled Wagyu short ribs from nearby Götzental, served with green asparagus, black garlic and sesame sauce. Fried pineapple with Thai basil and lime sorbet rounds off an evening that is a bit like a brief culinary trip to Tokyo, complete with sake tasting.

In Japanese cuisine, and thus also at Minamo, freshness is the number-one priority – and you can taste this when you try the sashimi sliced ‘à la minute’.

At the Mandarin Oriental Palace, guests are spoilt for choice. Will it be French-inspired fine dining at the Colonnade or Japanese omakase at Minamo?

GOURMET TOUR DELUXE

Little Vitznau on the ‘Lucerne Riviera’ might be the most surprising place on Lake Lucerne. Thanks to its sheltered location at the foot of Mount Rigi, it is blessed with plenty of sun. With its palm trees and vineyards, the atmosphere is almost Mediterranean, and it definitely is when you take a seat at ‘focus’, a gourmet restaurant with all-round windows in the Park Hotel Vitznau. The eight tables are very much in demand as head chef Patrick Mahler has many devoted fans. The restaurant’s name can be taken literally: the 40-year-old chef has a focused style that combines French elegance with Nordic reductionism and exceptionally subtle flavours. Mahler’s favourite discipline is Japanese dashi, which he varies in many different ways. It appears in every menu, as a basic ingredient in vinaigrettes, sauces and marinades: ‘Dashi is very light, but at the same time it is packed full of good flavours – it is an umami bomb,’ he says. Take the mushroom and morel dashi, for example, which goes so well with the delicate sweetness of fried Norway lobster. This dish is served with fresh morels, filled with a poultry stuffing and morel duxelles. Incidentally, the wines alone are a good enough reason to visit ‘focus’. The owner is one of the most important collectors in Europe, and there are some 33,000 bottles and over 4,500 different labels stored in the venue’s six wine cellars (one of which is devoted solely to Château d’Yquem). And in this way, to go with their beef tartare with beetroot jelly and to offset the sweetly intense creaminess of foie gras ice cream, guests might get to enjoy a 2005 vintage port from Quinta de la Rosa – slightly cooled, which takes away any excessive heaviness that the port might have. Or they might round off the flavours of cero mackerel with caviar, hazelnut cream, crème fraîche and delicately tart ponzu vinaigrette with a fullbodied Chenin Blanc from the legendary Domaine Huet in the Loire valley.

In the stylish glass cube, guests get to enjoy a box seat on the lake, as well as Mahler’s finely crafted amuse-bouches, from hiramasa tartare to mushroom dashi macarons. Mahler’s ‘secret weapon’ is Japanese dashi, which he makes himself from roasted tuna flakes and kombu algae: ‘We use it like salt.’

PARK HOTEL VITZNAU

focus

Präzision

aus der Uhrenstadt Biel Die sknife Messer und Bestecke sind heute in den weltbesten Restaurants mit über 200 Michelin Sternen sowie in über 20 Swiss Deluxe Hotels eingedeckt. Die Fertigung erfolgt in der Uhrenstadt Biel mit namhaften Uhrenherstellern wie Rolex. sknife hat somit Zugang zu neusten Stahllegierungen. Dies in Kombination mit stabilisiertem Schweizer Holz macht die sknife Messer auch einsetzbar in Restaurants am Meer und auf Yachten. Das Taschenmesser Volldamast mit über 1‘600 Lagen ermöglicht ein federleichtes Öffnen dank einem Hightech-Keramik Gleitlager und ist neu auch in der Luxusvariante mit 51 Diamanten erhältlich.

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more than just a belly feeling PHOTO GIORGIA PANZERA

characteristic of gourmet cuisine. It also helps to meet the demand for authentic flavours and sustainability, Stauffacher says. However, relying on local produce isn’t always an option for large kitchens, he explains, as their capacity is limited, for example when it comes to salt-water and freshwater fish. ‘Today, guests make a very conscious choice as they are much better informed.’ The topic of food receives more media coverage in general, which means that very few guests enter a restaurant completely unprepared. Information about origin, sustainability and processing is also critical here. Stauffacher is convinced that the achievements of top chefs will be of great importance for the future of the restaurant industry. Good training at a very high level is crucial in this regard, he says – and not just for the future stars of haute cuisine. The role of schools and governments is therefore to ensure a basic understanding of food production and support food consumption both as a way of staying healthy and a form of enjoyment. ‘Switzerland has more Michelin stars per head of population than any other country in the world,’ Stauffacher says. ‘Is there any better prerequisite for becoming an international reference point in the restaurant industry?’ Dany Stauffacher was born in Zurich in the 1950s and spent his time first playing professional basketball and then selling sportswear. It was only later that he discovered his great passion for good food and went on to launch the S.Pellegrino Sapori Ticino event series.

‘Food and drink play a key role in promoting a tourist destination,’ Dany Stauffacher says. It was with this in mind that he combined these two crucial elements in the first edition of his S.Pellegrino Sapori Ticino event back in 2007. He then went a step further and invited top chefs from abroad to take part. The gourmet events have now become an absolute highlight of the year as a meeting point for both the international restaurant scene and lovers of gourmet food. Since then, he has visited more than 3,000 restaurants all over the globe.

´BY RAISING THE CHEFS’ PROFILE OUTSIDE THEIR OWN KITCHENS, WE TURN THEM INTO AMBASSADORS FOR THEIR REGION.´ The fact that the chef’s personality is one of the most important ingredients in a restaurant’s success is something Stauffacher is aware of. ‘The dishes always reflect a state of mind and a feeling,’ he says, ‘and continue to exist as a memory.’ Wine plays a key role in this as it underlines a dish’s taste, strengthening it and providing harmony. Local produce is increasingly becoming the focus of attention as an unmistakable

WINTER WONDER

TRUE TASTE

WORDS & PHOTO CLAUDIO DEL PRINCIPE

You don’t have to like this delicate yet rough leaf vegetable with its complex bitter notes – you have to love it! The late-growing radicchio tardivo di Treviso is the prima donna of the noble radicchio family. This beauty from Veneto is first stored away by means of a labour-intensive process and then planted outside in the winter. The plant’s bittersweet heart, so to speak, is then obtained from this second flush. With vigorous purple leaves that are reminiscent of tentacles, it’s impossible to keep your hands off this graceful rarity. Tardivo unleashes its full flavour when fried or roasted. Simply remove the outer leaves and clean the stem with a sharp knife – but don’t cut it off, as otherwise the leaves will fall off. Give the whole radicchio a quick clean under the tap and drip-dry. Then cut through it lengthwise (big leaves can be quartered). Season with salt and pepper and sprinkle on a little olive oil. Roast both sides on the grill or in a frying pan until the edges turn brown and the leaves begin to shrink somewhat. Sprinkle with fior di sale. Prepared this way, tardivo goes well with creamy cheeses like Taleggio, Brie de Meaux or Gorgonzola. However, it is also a treat for the taste buds raw, ideally combined with juicy blood oranges and red Kampot pepper. Pickled radicchio tardivo is another very popular delicacy. Boil equal quantities of water, white wine and white wine vinegar and add a little salt. Season with bay leaves, juniper berries and black peppercorns. Blanch the radicchio in the liquid for five minutes, then drain and squeeze out. Pack tightly in preserving jars, cover with olive oil and seal. Boil down in the preserving jars at 90 degrees for one hour. Then store in the fridge for at least two weeks. 99

FOOD STORIES

a floral paradise WORDS & PHOTOS ELENA & TIM STENESS

In an age of transformation in which we are all striving for efficiency and sustainability and looking for new paths, the restaurant industry is no exception. Even in the fine dining scene, concepts are being reconsidered and structures adapted in order to move with the times. One remarkable discovery in this regard is blooms, the new garden restaurant at the Dolder Grand Hotel in Zurich. In a setting of luscious green foliage, herbs and blossoms, the restaurant offers an incomparable outdoor dining experience. Not only do the nearby vegetable beds whet the guests’ appetite – they also mean that the chefs do not have to go far to source their ingredients. With a tangible eye for detail and obvious passion for their work, the team openly share their concept with guests, explaining the principles of sustainability and plant cultivation. In total, the green oasis on the roof of the hotel has space for around 36 guests. From refined vegetable combinations to innovative treats for the taste buds, chef Heiko Nieder celebrates vegetarian and vegan artistic creations in his wonderful new restaurant. A trip to blooms is a journey of discovery for the palate and a tribute to nature in a relaxed setting that also offers impressive views of the surrounding countryside.

One of the Dolder Grand’s largest sculptures is a work by Keith Haring. It forms the heart around which the garden and seating were constructed.

Fresh beetroot ripening in the sun – it is amazing what creations and aromas can be made from and with this delicious vegetable. The fresh and aromatic blooms garden salad combined with one of the three Summer signature cocktails, consisting of Earl Grey and whisky, was an absolutely unexpected highlight.

Both delicious and cute to look at with all the little flowers on top, the tomato and strawberry salad is also fiery and crispy thanks to the addition of chilli peppers and pumpkin seeds.

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heiko nieder The Dolder Grand has been named GaultMillau Hotel of the Year 2024 for the second time in eight years having amassed an impressive score of 64 points. Head chef Heiko Nieder has now embarked on a new path with the blooms restaurant. Most of the vegetables come from the restaurant’s own garden, cooking is done outdoors and guests are served vegan and vegetarian compositions with flower bouquets and summery fruits. It is a labour of love.

There are many challenges. In the spring we had material shortages and prolonged rainfall, which taught us how to be patient and improvise. How can we best use our own vegetables without harvesting everything at the same time and leaving behind a total mess? Not only that, an outdoor kitchen that is a long way away from all of the hotel’s other infrastructure was a whole new challenge that took a while to get used to. However, the topic of vegan and vegetarian food is something Iʼve never worried about. Zurich is the right city for this kind of concept and blooms is the right place for our guests. If you offer a range of options, you have to be well prepared in order to guarantee that everything runs smoothly and remain flexible while serving. Individuality is vital to us. I really enjoy creating dishes that you don’t even notice are vegan. They are different but they taste delicious and nothing is missing! That is something which fascinates me. The ideas for new dishes and creations come from the ingredients – is there a nicer inspiration than a fragrant tomato, a beautifully shaped carrot or a freshly plucked flower bud? The desire to transform it into something special comes entirely of its own accord. 103

chawanmushi with peas, sea greens, field caviar and curry

INGREDIENTS Chawanmushi base, vegan 420 g 10 g 18 g 23 g 25 g 3.5 g 2g 24 g 7g

silken tofu light miso soy sauce, light, gluten-free mirin potato starch salt coconut sugar water dashi broth, vegan

To serve 20 g 3g

2g 10 g 1g

fresh peas, blanched Wakame seaweed, finely chopped soy glaze (light soy sauce, passion fruit juice, sunflower oil and coconut water lightly bound) curry oil tonburi (field caviar) dashi broth, vegan Pea or bean flowers Sweet alyssum, white Pea cress Maldon sea salt Arare pearls, with sea greens Curry furikake Espelette pepper, a pinch of Lime zest

P R E PA R AT I O N Blend all of the ingredients together in a Thermomix until they form a smooth mass and season to taste. Pour 40 g per portion into small bowls, cover in foil and poach for around 20 minutes in steam at 90°C. Then leave the chawanmushi to cool in the cold store.

SERVE Marinate the blanched peas with the soy glaze, wakame, curry oil and a pinch of salt and season to taste before spreading evenly over a poached tempered chawanmushi. Marinate the tonburi with the dashi, drape it in the middle of the peas and sprinkle with a few flakes of the Maldon sea salt. Sprinkle the visible peas with arare pearls, furikake and a little Espelette pepper and garnish with the plucked flowers, sweet alyssum, lime zest and pea cress. 104

bbq beetroot with garden herbs, beechnuts and coffee

INGREDIENTS

P R E PA R AT I O N

BBQ beetroot

Slowly grill the beetroots at a temperature of approximately 120°C in a Big Green Egg, turning frequently until cooked. Then leave to cool, vacuum and refrigerate for 24 hours. Peel and halve the beetroots, then rub them with the BBQ rub and coffee powder before refrigerating them again in a vacuum for a further 24 hours.

2 10 g 4g

beetroots, red, large, with skin BBQ rub coffee powder, Brazil

Beetroot sticks and purée 1 5g 20 g 20 g 5g

beetroot, red, large, with skin salt sushi vinegar water raspberry vinegar

Garlic purée 1

garlic bulb, fermented Water Salt

Herb sauce 100 g 2g 20 g

vegetable stock corn flour herb purée (various garden herbs finely puréed and passed through a sieve) Lime Salt

To serve some

Beechnuts, roasted Beechnut oil, roasted Garlic chips, deep-fried Garden herbs Flowers, edible Beetroot powder Coffee powder BBQ rub Potato croutons Orange zest Herb oil from garden herbs Maldon sea salt

Sprinkle the beetroot with salt, wrap in aluminium foil, bake in the oven for around 1 hour at 180°C and then leave to cool. Peel the beetroot, cut it into thin sticks of equal width and vacuum with the sushi vinegar and water. Finely blend the remaining beetroot pieces, season to taste with raspberry vinegar and salt, then pass through a fine sieve and pour into a squeeze bottle of an appropriate size. Peel the fermented garlic, pass it through a fine sieve and mix with a little water to achieve the desired consistency. Season the mixture with a little salt and pour into a squeeze bottle of an appropriate size. Bring the vegetable stock to the boil together with the mixed corn flour. Prior to serving, add the herb purée and season everything to taste with salt and lime juice.

SERVE Cut the marinated beetroot halves into wedges, fry on each side with a little oil and arrange on the centre of the plate. Lightly sprinkle the beetroot with the BBQ rub, coffee powder and beetroot powder. Dress the beetroot and garlic purée between the wedges and garnish with beechnuts, beechnut oil, potato croutons, garlic chips and the pickled beetroot sticks. Drape the garden herbs, flowers and orange zest on and between the beetroot, marinate with a little herb oil and season lightly with the salt. Pour on the herb sauce when serving. 105

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pursuit of excellence We join forces with our partners setting new standards in the Swiss world of luxury hospitality, raising the bar when it comes to innovation, sustainability, digitalisation and the very thing we do best – deluxe indulgence.

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and oskar goes to … gstaad WORDS TITUS ARNU PHOTOS ENNO KAPITZA

A giant mythological creature, fish in beeswax and fluffy dog beds: at The Alpina Gstaad luxury hotel, animals play more than just an insignificant supporting role. Nevertheless, they also need to be able to behave appropriately, as author Titus Arnu found out during his stay as a guest in Gstaad with his Labrador Oskar.

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A friendly encounter: hotel director Tim Weiland with Oskar on the steps of the Lounge of The Alpina Gstaad. Bottom: an action-packed holiday on the frozen Lake Lauenen.

What kind of animal is that then? Situated in front of the hotel, an enormous creature that looks like a cross between a horse, a cow and a seal lounges in the garden. It measures four and a half metres long and more than four metres high, has a blue-green shimmer and its back and head are covered in a thin layer of freshly fallen snow reminiscent of icing sugar. The sculpture goes by the name of Third Animal and was created by the renowned German artist Thomas Schütte. It weighs 2.6 tonnes and can easily unsettle a 35 kg Labrador Retriever with its imposing presence. Oskar is a cool dog who is usually quite patient and has no issues socialising with other animals and people. In the past, he has already had encounters with grass snakes, toads, donkeys, mini ponies and llamas without getting upset. While it cannot be claimed that squirrels and cats are his closest friends, he gets along with them just fine if they don’t get too cheeky with him. However, five-year-old Oskar is not quite so familiar with this mysterious mythological creature. Although he dutifully sits for a photograph next to the staring monster, the hairs on the back of his neck are standing on end. Back to the hotel quick! Oskar scampers over the snow-covered terrace on his way to the groundfloor entrance. A sliding glass door opens automatically in front of him and he immediately feels like he’s in paradise. Light brown carpeting, wood-panelled walls, cosy furs laid

out on benches and chairs – and all topped off by this wonderful smell! The entrance to the terrace is located right next to the bar and straight on would be the shortest path to the kitchen. The smell of bacon, potatoes and eggs in the air leaves no doubt that a hearty breakfast is currently being prepared. Oskar is drawn towards the kitchen, but we have to go round to the left, make our way past the bar and navigate the dining tables to get to the lift. For a hungry Labrador, the journey through the chic Lounge of The Alpina Gstaad is more akin to a challenging obstacle course. Oskar can’t help but notice the smell of the croissants, eggs, cheese and sausages being enjoyed by the hotel guests and that are so close they’re almost asking to be snatched. He sniffs longingly at the breakfast delights, but his master leads him past them on a short leash. Dogs are not allowed in the Lounge, the restaurants or the spa area. ‘Dogs in hotels are a sensitive subject,’ says Tim Weiland, General Manager at The Alpina Gstaad. On the one hand, ever more guests want to spend quality time with their loved ones, who also include their four-legged friends. On the other, however, some of these darlings are not as well behaved as one would wish in such an elegant environment – and this can sometimes lead to guests without dogs finding things a little too lively or being exposed to more hair, noise and stress than they would like. 110

OSKAR

For a long time, dogs were indeed allowed in the Lounge of The Alpina Gstaad, which forms the heart of the hotel and provides a place for people to meet. ‘However, one day I made my way to the bar area in the morning and was greeted by 25 dogs. Most of them were on leashes, while others were sat on their owners’ laps,’ explains General Manager Tim Weiland. ‘And then a German Shepherd came in without a leash.’ What subsequently happened is described by Weiland as nothing short of an escalation. The guests who had been looking forward to a mouth-watering Sunday breakfast experienced dramatic scenes, barking and growling, despite not having actually booked front-row seats for such a spectacle. Weiland reacted immediately and issued a dog ban for the Lounge.

Nevertheless, the hotel’s General Manager, who originally comes from Germany, is actually a real dog lover. When he was working in a hotel in Morocco, he adopted a street dog. He named his four-legged friend Cappuccino because he was so small as a puppy that he would have fitted into a coffee cup. When Weiland moved to India to start a new job, he took his little companion with him. To his surprise, Cappuccino grew quicker than expected and ended up weighing 46 kilograms. Cappuccino lived together with him in the hotel, which wasn’t a problem, as he was so well behaved, as Weiland explains. Unfortunately you can’t take it for granted that all four-legged guests have been reared so well, explains the General Manager. Without naming names or dropping any hints, he tells the story of a rich young woman who rented out one of The Alpina Gstaad’s most expensive suites for several days together with her lapdog. The luxurious rooms are furnished with highquality, solid wood furniture, furs, exquisite sofas and white carpeting. ‘The lady celebrated her birthday in the suite, invited friends to join her and flew in a DJ,’ says Weiland, before sharing that ‘the following day she slept until four in the afternoon.’ Apparently, nobody was looking after the dog during this time. As a result, the white carpeting was strewn with dog droppings and had to be completely replaced. The dog’s owner and the hotel would go on to argue in court about the costs of the renovations.

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An eerie encounter: Oskar with author Titus Arnu next to the sculpture Das dritte Tier (The Third Animal).

A fine drop: this Japanese whisky from The Last Drop distillery costs several thousand francs.

‘If rock stars destroy a hotel room, they also get charged for it,’ says Weiland, and ‘there should be no difference in instances in which damage is caused by dogs.’ Unfortunately, some animal lovers don’t see things the same way. This is a shame, as The Alpina Gstaad is actually a very accommodating and dogfriendly establishment, as we notice at every turn during our visit. After a walk through the slush surrounding the hotel, the concierge rubs down Oskar’s paws with a fresh towel. An extremely comfortable dog bed awaits him in our room. Oskar also likes the fluffy mat made of artificial fur, while the flickering emanating from the gas fireplace and a few treats make this a truly wonderful experience for him. Labradors love cosiness! As do people, by the way. In the dog-free lounge, I enjoy a fruity drink called Oscar, observe the colourful mix of guests and admire the design of the Japanese whisky bar. The counter is adorned with handmade shingles, while rarities in beautifully designed bottles are housed in a festively lit display case. Those who want to can order a collector’s bottle designed by an artist for several thousand Swiss francs – but only as a pair, as the label motif extends over two bottles. The menu also includes one of the most expensive bottles of whisky in the world, costing a staggering CHF 180,000. Alternatively, you could purchase a cheaper bottle, drink it all and you’d be left seeing double as you gaze at the label anyway.

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At dinner in the Sommet restaurant, head chef Martin Göschel serves up a delicacy that will make your mouth water: fresh char prepared directly at your table. The fish is doused with 70-degree hot wax that comes from the hotel’s own beekeeping operation. The scent of Christmas is in the air and the sense of anticipation rises just as it does before you get to exchange gifts. A quarter of an hour later, the fish is separated from the wax. It is now cooked, juicy and wonderfully tender. Over dinner, the hotel’s General Manager Weiland shares experiences about the super-rich individuals who spend their Christmas holidays in Gstaad and arrive with a butler and large entourage, including their pets, in tow. During their stay in the secluded mountain village with more cows than residents, they want to be disturbed as little as possible. The location is renowned for its discretion. ‘Come up, slow down’ is the slogan used by the destination Gstaad. And this also applies to animals! Since the incident with the German Shepherd in the Lounge, General Manager Tim Weiland has been careful not to upset the balance between dogs and people, especially at peak holiday times. Not every one of the 56 rooms and suites should have a dog residing in it at the same time and, of course, it also helps if the animals get enough exercise outside the hotel. Gravelled paths lined by sculptures such as the Third Animal lead you through the park. A walk at Lake Lauenen located 12 kilometres from Gstaad at the foot of the valley is even more calming for a dog’s psyche. Oskar jumps through the slushy snow, digs holes and catches the pine cones that his master throws. Quality time with your best friend in the mountains, stress-free exercise and a view of the snow-covered three-thousandmetre peaks – is there any greater luxury in life?

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three times lucky IN BERN

WORDS OLIVER SCHMUKI ILLUSTRATIONS DANIEL FÖLLMI

Bern is generally thought of as a picturesque, easy-going and tranquil place. A short, exhilarating stay in Switzerland’s capital is enough to confirm all this. It will further lead to the realisation that Bern is also home to a cosmopolitan and innovative local bar scene with wonderfully tasty creations. It’s a hot day in July 2023. The summer holidays are just around the corner and the train compartment, as always, is packed with commuters, making it like a sauna. Fortunately, no one is taking their clothes off just yet. Shortly before pulling into Bern station, as always, the bright green Aare manages to catch my eye in an almost magnetic fashion. It won’t be long until it’s time for a drink! Also, I have a clear mission to fulfil: three concoctions at three different venues in the city in a single evening. However, after checking into the Schweizerhof Bern & Spa hotel, I find myself yearning for another kind of refreshment, so I head down to the river. Switzerland’s capital city is home to exactly one-third as many people as reside in Zurich. You get the feeling that every single one of them is drifting down the Aare this

afternoon, navigating their way under the Monbijou Bridge and past the Dampfzentrale cultural centre on their way to the wonderful Marzilibad lido. The roots of this open-air pool can be traced back to the late 18th century. However, unlike in the past, entry is now free. Nevertheless, it takes a bit of effort before you can enjoy a dip in the river. Only after a long walk in your bare feet against the flow of the water do you finally get your reward: a refreshing jump into the cool water. The current of the Aare is not to be underestimated, which is why only really good swimmers let themselves be carried downstream. Needless to say, this fun adventure is for adults only – just like the consumption of alcohol. Which finally brings us to the actual topic of this article and the beginning of my mission. 114

01 kuching mule

VIKTOR After all that swimming, I’m not only thirsty but also hungry, so I choose a restaurant to get started. Victor is one of the businesses that has recently been enhancing the area around Viktoriaplatz, filling it with life and good vibes. A beautiful walk over the Kornhaus Bridge takes you there in a jiffy. Once I arrive at the no-frills bistro, which has been brought to life with skilful colour and design accents, I order olives, a piece of mountain cheese – and a Kuching Mule, a reinterpretation of the famous Moscow Mule, which, incidentally, was created almost a century ago in Manhattan. Why our version is named after a Malaysian city is just as mysterious to me as the deeper meaning behind the bistro’s slogan: All cats are beautiful. The evening, it seems, is a tad too young to get to the bottom of such profound riddles. Why my drink has Kuching in its name, however, is probably because the ingredients not only include the obligatory gin and ginger beer, but also lime, cucumber and chilli. My conclusion: the drink’s sour and fresh notes stand out much more than its spicy side. All in all, while not a revelation, it’s a satisfactory start that fulfils its purpose: it has given me a thirst for more. – Viktoriaplatz 3, allcatsarebeautiful.ch

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der Welt

BAR EXPERIENCE

02 50/50 sazerac

LOBBY LOUNGE BAR, SCHWEIZERHOF I resist the temptation of delving deeper into the drinks menu at Die Taube and make my way back to the Schweizerhof. At the bar in the hotel lobby, I am welcomed by bar manager Krystian who offers me something very special: a glimpse into the future! The Cherry Flavor, which the native of Poland prepares for me himself, is one of the establishment’s twelve signature cocktails to be included on the new drinks menu that he is currently working on (and is available from September 2023). This creation has everything it needs to turn heads: sweet, cherry-based Luxardo liqueur, smoky mezcal and fruity pisco not only ensure a harmonious mix, but also make the cocktail extremely moreish, as the alcohol is (dangerously well!) integrated. The addition of a cloud of candy floss and grated dark chocolate creates a wow effect while also providing Instagrammability. ‘The drink is reminiscent of the pink sunsets that you can enjoy from our sky terrace,’ says Krystian with a wink. I take it as a sign as I head towards the elevator. Even though the sun has long since gone down in Bern and most of the people, who just a few hours ago were still bathing in the Aare, are long since asleep, I know exactly where I want to end this enjoyable evening. And who knows, there might be another barfly up on the hotel’s roof who’s looking for some profound conversation ...

DIE TAUBE With my hunger satisfied, I stroll back over the bridge to the old town and head straight to a bar called Die Taube, which is German for dove. The place was recommended to me by the hotel – fortunately, because it turns out to be a fairly well-hidden, inconspicuous nightspot. The minute I reach the bar, I am feeling a spark in the air. What I get is a warm welcome, great music (hip hop), a wittily designed menu and some expert advice on beverages. There are many creations I'd love to try, including the Calvinforina with mezcal verde, pisco, dry curaçao, chartreuse verte, kiwi, lime and soda water or Keli’s Milkshake, which daringly pairs gin with lime, raspberries and white chocolate. The people who work here clearly not only understand their craft, but also love it. That means there’s no need to hesitate about ordering a classic cocktail which, in my case, is one of my all-time favourites: a Sazerac. This is an adventurous, tart and strong drink – not for beginners. After a short chat with the bartender, I go for the 50/50 version, and seconds later rye whiskey and cognac are congregating in a wonderfully chilled glass that has been rinsed with absinthe. A little later, I cool my throat outside in the fresh evening air beneath the Berner Lauben, the name given to the Swiss capital’s historic arcades. I am completely satisfied, not only with my drink but with the world in general.

– Bahnhofplatz 11, schweizerhofbern.com

03 cherry flavour

– Rathausgasse 50,

dietaube.ch

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Magic Moments at Unique PlaceS

PARTNERS OF SWISS TOP EVENTS:

118

swiss top events Magic moments at unique places

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SWISS TOP EVENTS

all events

13 – 16 June 2024

ART BASEL

MONTREUX JAZZ FESTIVAL

artbasel.com

The New York Times dubbed it the Art Olympics, Vogue called it ‘the most beautiful temporary museum in the world’, and Le Monde simply hailed it as ‘the best in the world’. Art Basel, the premier international art show, attracts and inspires art lovers from across the globe year after year.

FIS SKI WORLD CUP LAUBERHORN WENGEN

In January 2024, the 94th International Lauberhorn Races will be held in Wengen in the beautiful Bernese Oberland. The world’s best Alpine skiers will compete in the Super-G on Friday, on the legendary Lauberhorn downhill slope on Saturday, and in the Slalom on Sunday. lauberhorn.ch

The Festival is famous for its exceptional heritage and legendary concerts. With its intimate ambience and renowned hospitality, it offers a unique experience for artists and public alike.

05 – 08 September 2024

OMEGA EUROPEAN MASTERS CRANS-MONTANA

montreuxjazzfestival.com

CALENDER AND DATES

The Omega European Masters, which takes place in Crans-Montana (VS), has been offering its 50,000 spectators magical moments in a breathtaking Alpine environment ever since 1939. Professional golfers from all over the world come to compete in the most stunning setting of the DP World Tour schedule.

You can find further information and details at swisstopevents.ch

omegaeuropeanmasters.com

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05 – 20 July 2024

12 – 14 January 2024

SWISS TOP EVENTS

05 September 2024

WELTKLASSE ZÜRICH

09 – 12 May 2024 13 August – 15 September 2024

LUCERNE FESTIVAL

Lucerne Festival ranks among the leading international presenters of classical music, offering various festivals throughout the year. The main festival, which takes place in summer, showcases the world’s most-renowned symphony orchestras, conductors, and soloists, as well as the young artist generation and contemporary music. The other festivals include Lucerne Festival Forward in November, which is focused on contemporary music, the Spring Festival, and the Piano Fest curated by pianist Igor Levit. Together with the Summer Festival, they attract classical music fans from all over the world. lucernefestival.ch

Hosting the best athletes from Switzerland, Europe, and the World, Weltklasse Zürich once again combines breathtaking performances of track and field heroes with the magical atmosphere at Letzigrund Stadium. In addition, one discipline will be chosen to represent the sport event at Zurich main station.

4, 11, 18 February 2024

WHITE TURF ST. MORITZ

weltklassezuerich.ch

07 – 17 August 2024

LOCARNO FILM FESTIVAL

The fascination for the world’s only horse race on a frozen lake has remained for generations. Featuring traditional skikjöring, flat, trotting and pony races, White Turf St. Moritz attracts VIPs from around the globe, locals and betting enthusiasts alike. whiteturf.ch

Every summer since 1946, the Locarno Film Festival has brought the world’s most innovative cinema to the shores of Lake Maggiore. Thanks to its free spirit, the Festival has become an incubator of ideas and new projects, with educational and cultural activities organised throughout the year. locarnofestival.ch

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swiss top events as sustainability leaders WORDS DANIEL WIENER

OMEGA EUROPEAN MASTERS CRANSMONTANA

FIS SKI WORLD CUP LAUBERHORN WENGEN

ART BASEL ART BASEL IS THE PREMIER I N T E R N AT I O N A L A R T S H O W. A waste manager has been appointed to oversee operations during the construction and dismantling of the site. The aisle carpet in the exhibition will be fully recycled after the show. Disposable tableware is not available at any of the fair’s catering outlets. Recyclable PET bottles are collected separately and returned to PET recycling points found throughout Switzerland. Water fountains have been installed and aluminium bottles are distributed to exhibitors, partners, and staff.

SINCE 1939 SPECTATO R S AND PROFESSIONAL GOLFERS ALIKE H AV E C H E R ISHED THE BREATHTA K I N G A L P I N E SETTING OF THIS TO U R N A M E N T ON THE DP WORLD TO U R S C H E D U L E .

THE FIS SKI WORLD CUP LAUBERHORN WENGEN ATTRACTS THE BEST ALPINE SKIERS EVERY JANUARY FOR THREE RACES: A S U P E R- G, THE LEGENDARY LAUBERHORN DOWNHILL, A N D A S L A LO M .

WHITE TURF ST. MORITZ

The use of disposable products (such as compostable disposable tableware, aluminium cans, disposable glass bottles, tetra packs and decoration) is largely avoided.

WHITE TURF S T. M O R I T Z I S T H E O N LY HORSE RACE ON A FROZEN LAKE.

Nearly all waste is separated into PET, cardboard/ paper, glass, aluminium, organic waste and residual waste.

White Turf has reduced waste verifiably throughout the last years and is still working on this topic, with their goal being to reduce waste to a minimum.

Waste bins are available every 25 metres in the public area. Where edible products are purchased from stands that do not have seating, the use of plates is mostly avoided.

White Turf’s goal is to achieve ISO 20121 certification by forward live, with protection of the environment, social impacts and economic components as their top priority.

To minimise printing, an agreement has been reached with sponsors to reduce the distribution of free samples and flyers to a minimum.

White Turf’s catering partner Gamma and tent builder Blasto have already been officially certified as sustainable companies by forward live. 122

Since 2019, data has been reported and collected year after year to foster continuous improvement, and the carbon footprint of the event has been measured since 2021. Water fountains across the whole venue have resulted in the saving of 50,000 50 ml PET bottles. There is now close to no single use of plastics or PET bottles. 100% reusable tableware in 2022. The recycling rate increased from 42% in 2019 to 56% in 2022. The event’s furniture is reused every year, with some still being used from UEFA EURO 2008 in Switzerland. In 2021, the tournament donated 400 kg of cotton to a local company to transform it into clothes for local garages and isolation for SMEs’ buildings.

WELTKLASSE ZÜRICH THE WORLD-CLASS AT H L E T I C S M E E TI N G W E LT K L A S S E Z Ü R I C H F E AT U R E S T H E B E S T I N T E RN AT I O N A L A N D NATIONAL ATHLETES WHO COMPETE I N 1 5 WA N D A DIAMOND LEAGUE DISCIPLINES. Weltklasse Zürich offers free water stations and refill opportunities. Volunteers, media representatives and other staff members receive high-quality aluminium bottles for refills. Digitalisation of print products: digital meeting guide was successfully introduced to replace 124-page-strong printed magazine. No fresh flowers in Hospitality: use of herbaceous plants in pots that guests can take home. Minimalisation of food waste: more vegetable options in hospitality and stadium catering. Food waste is used to generate biogas. Supplier assessment and education of partners with regard to waste management and other more sustainable options.

LOCARNO FILM FESTIVAL

MONTREUX JAZZ FESTIVAL THE MONTREUX J A Z Z F E S T I VA L I S FA M O U S F O R I T S E XC E P T I O N A L H E R I TA G E , I N T I M AT E A M B I E N C E AND RENOWNED H O S P I TA L I T Y.

LUCERNE FESTIVAL T H E LU C E R N E F E S T I VA L I S O N E OF THE WORLD’S LEADING CLASSICAL MUSIC F E S T I VA L S F E AT U R I N G M U LT I P L E CONCERT SERIES THROUGHOUT THE YEAR. THE CENTRAL EVENT IS THE SUMMER CONCERTS IN AUGUST AND SEPTEMBER.

The Festival has year-round employees dedicated exclusively to waste management, sustainability and the environment. The Jazz Festival has installed Eco points for the collection of PET, glass, aluminium and waste, as well as ashtrays all over the event’s site and develops a complete internal recycling centre, organised and cleaned daily.

The Lucerne Festival employs a staff member throughout the year who focuses on the sustainability of the Festival.

Only reusable glasses are used in all bars and restaurants.

Thanks to its digital offering, the print run of the Festival’s summer programme has been reduced by more than 33% since 2018.

To encourage public transport and soft mobility, the Festival has additional trains with special fares, free travel on the main Vevey-Villeneuve bus line as well as parking facilities for bicycles.

Marketing materials are reused over multiple years where possible.

The water of the lake undergoes a weekly quality analysis by the Festival, before, during and after the event to estimate its impact on the lake’s water quality. In addition, volunteer divers clean the Festival’s lake area at the end of the summer.

The Lucerne Festival team and the participants in the Lucerne Festival Academy are given reusable bottles made of recycled aluminium. The use of plastic is largely avoided in office operations. 123

EVERY SUMMER SINCE 1946, T H E LO C A R N O F I L M F E S T I VA L HAS BROUGHT THE WORLD’S M O ST I N N OVAT I V E C I N E M A TO T H E SHORES OF LAGO MAGGIORE. The Locarno Film Festival provides the public with Eco points specifically designed for waste recycling, with accompanying educational information. The Festival is working to drastically reduce the number of plastic water bottles distributed at its venues. The Festival is reducing food waste at its events through a partnership with Too Good to Go. The Festival has introduced a deposit system for glass cups and will use biodegradable cups in the future. The winner of the Pardo verde WWF 2022 was Matter out of place, a documentary about waste management around the world with the aim of raising awareness about the issue. Since 2022, the Festival has also donated leftover materials from the event to the Fondazione Diamante, which uses them to make a variety of handmade products and promotes the employment of people with disabilities.

WE ARE COMPLETELY DEPENDENT ON THE ELEMENTS

WORDS DANIEL WIENER

What is a Swiss winter without snow? Not a winter at all. To assure themselves of the reliable return of the winter snows and frosts, poets often celebrate the Alpine glaciers as eternal ice. The fact that a few decades from now, the majority of this eternal ice will only be visible on old photos is Urs Näpflin’s living nightmare. He is the longstanding race director and current chairman of the International Lauberhorn Race Association. This iconic ski event in the Bernese Oberland will soon be coming up for its 100th anniversary. In January 2024, the world’s best skiers will come together for the 94th time to take part in a super-G race, a slalom event with two runs and, above all, the longest and most spectacular downhill race of the men’s annual Ski World Cup. 124

White Turf is not only about races, it is also a social event. The lake becomes the setting and a meeting point for all race lovers.

Wengernalp with a view of Hundschopf, Minschkante and Canadian Corner.

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Top left and bottom right © Marcus Gyger, Verein Int. Lauberhornrennen, top right and bottom left © Philippe Klemm, Verein Int. Lauberhornrennen

But what surface will they ski on in the future? As long as the temperatures are low enough, the Lauberhorn Races can cope with the snow that remains. Many years ago, the FIS introduced a requirement that Alpine World Cup races have to be held on technical snow. This surface guarantees a piste quality that can cope with the immense pressure put on it by the athletes and ensure fair competition. If temperatures rise, it would only be possible to organise ski races in higher resorts. The unstable weather can also have the opposite effect: in 2023, 600 volunteers and members of the Swiss Army and the Swiss civil defence service had to work through the night because 50 centimetres of fresh snow had fallen on the prepared piste in just a few hours the day before the race. However, this is not a new situation and things like that have always happened. Over the last 93 years, the organisers in Wengen have learned to live with the elements. Extreme snowfalls, foehn winds of up to 180 km/h and warm spells in January are just as much part of the history of the Lauberhorn Races as the winners and losers. That said, the undeniable fact of global warming is causing a great deal of concern for the Wengen organisers, too. Urs Näpflin’s dilemma goes beyond that, however. Like every organiser of a major event, he has to face up to the fact that his races cannot be held without generating emissions. Over 50,000 spectators travel to Wengen for the Lauberhorn Races, albeit mostly by train. Each year, legions of racers complete with entourage and material throng from venue to venue where all the different ski competitions take place. Stages, toilets, tonnes of technology and temporary structures are assembled for the three-day sporting event. One of the traditional highlights of the Lauberhorn Races is a show by the aerobatic squadron of the Swiss Army. The Patrouille Suisse always has the spectators in raptures with their performance. For many environmentally conscious people, this seems troubling at first glance. In actual fact, however, these events count as flight hours that the pilots have to complete anyway as part of their training, meaning that no additional emissions are generated. But how would it help the environment if the Lauberhorn Races were abolished completely? Even though all these emissions would be saved, the answer is: very little. For that reason, Näpflin can only hope that humanity as a whole comes to its senses soon, and

that everyone does their bit. The question of whether such activities should still take place or not is also a societal one. It is possible to argue in terms of sustainability in this regard, too. Organising and holding 94 years of World Cup races clearly has a positive social, societal and economic effect for Switzerland. Words are also being followed by deeds at the Lauberhorn Races: ‘I feel positive as the organiser. Everyone is open-minded and willing to accept change,’ says Näpflin. However, it is important that the measures do not just pay lip service to the idea of sustainability. They have to be effective and cost-efficient. For example, the energy supply is already being gradually switched from oil to domestic wood pellets, which is a challenge in carfree Wengen, where everything has to be delivered by rail. In addition, a waste and reusable crockery concept is being implemented, in accordance with the canton of Bern’s specifications. The process of reorganising material management has already been completed. To reduce the number of journeys required for transport, many safety installations are stored in Wengen rather than being taken back down into the valley, as they used to be. This also makes it possible to minimise the number of helicopter flights during the setting up and dismantling process. These flights are much more controversial among the local population than the army’s airshow or the event’s sponsorship by Swiss. The airline is using its presence at the Lauberhorn Races to communicate its plans to switch to biofuels.

Top right: Patrouille Suisse at the Lauberhorn Races 2023.

127

Beat Feuz is the most successful Swiss skier of the modern era in Wengen. The skier from the Bernese Oberland won the classic in 2012, 2018 and 2020. No other skier has achieved three triumphs since 1980.

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Take a lake of 765,000 sqm with a depth of 44 m, and ice of 40 to 80 cm thickness, plus constructions weighing more than 3,000 tons: that is White Turf!

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The environment benefits, too. Plastic is ‘99% banned’ on the lake, says Walther proudly, but there is some ‘room for improvement with little things like sugar bags and coffee creamer.’ The organisers charge high deposits for event cups and other packaging to increase the likelihood of them being returned. Washing up and toilet flushing is done with lake water that undergoes waste water treatment after use. The waste separation and disposal system is particularly clever, and even uses mobile ash trays that keep poisonous cigarette butts off the surface of the ice. After all, when spring comes the ice will thaw, and anything left on it will go straight into the water. Like the Lauberhorn Races, White Turf also enjoys ‘great support from the municipalities and the canton’ with its sustainability efforts. At two million francs a year, the material costs are very high in St. Moritz, too. If the municipalities were to put even more effort into promoting coordination with other events, multiple use would make it possible to reduce the costs and the environmental burden even further. Like all Swiss Top Events, the Lauberhorn Races and White Turf have committed in a joint charter to taking new, specific and exemplary steps each year to ensure that our white winters don’t become a thing of the past. Last but not least, Näpflin’s goal is to ‘give our loyal visitors food for thought and inspire them to do their bit voluntarily.’

Näpflin’s colleague Thomas Walther concurs: ‘We are completely dependent on the elements.’ Hotelier Walther is President of the White Turf horse race. Held on the thickest natural ice in the Alps, this Swiss Top Event benefits from the sub-zero temperatures that coat Lake St. Moritz in a 40-centimetre layer of ice each winter. Thoroughbred horses and jockeys from all around the world compete in different competitions for three days at the start of February. With its accompanying music programme and show components, the event attracts over 10,000 spectators and participants to the lake every day – among them not just members of ‘high society’ but also many locals. One of the focuses of White Turf’s sustainability policy is on social topics. The pony racing for children aged up to 16, for example, shows that White Turf isn’t just an event for the elite. For heating, contractual partner Shell relies on synthetic GTL, a low-emission fuel that is kind to the lungs of the visitors, athletes and animals. 130

Local man Thomas Walther is the President of the Board of White Turf.

The last discipline to join the horseraces of St. Moritz were the gallop races, a long time after the Skikjöring and the trotting races had been established. It is not easy to determine which of the slightly nervous horses can best cope with the unusual surface.

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22 locations

Basel Zürich

39 36

FRANCE

Luzern Vitznau

Neuchâtel

25 7

Bern

Interlaken Lausanne 19

Le Mont-Pèlerin 21 31

Vevey

Andermatt 1

Gstaad 14

15 16

Montreux

11 12

Crans-Montana

Ascona

Genève

4 33

Zermatt

100 km

City Hotel Resort Hotel

40 miles 132

I T A LY

GERMANY

AUSTRIA

Bad Ragaz 5

Arosa

28 29

St. Moritz

Pontresina

Lugano

Mandarin Oriental Genève

Gstaad Palace Gstaad

Le Grand Bellevue Gstaad

Park Gstaad Gstaad

The Alpina Gstaad Gstaad

Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa Interlaken

Lausanne Palace Lausanne

Beau-Rivage Palace Lausanne-Ouchy

Le Mirador Resort & Spa Le Mont-Pèlerin

Hotel Splendide Royal Lugano

Mandarin Oriental Palace Luzern

Fairmont Le Montreux Palace Montreux

Beau-Rivage Hotel Neuchâtel

Grand Hotel Kronenhof Pontresina

Badrutt’s Palace Hotel St. Moritz

Carlton Hotel St. Moritz St. Moritz

Kulm Hotel St. Moritz St. Moritz

Suvretta House St. Moritz

Grand Hôtel du Lac Vevey

Park Hotel Vitznau Vitznau

33 Bellevue Palace Bern

Grand Hotel Zermatterhof Zermatt

Hotel Schweizerhof Bern & Spa Bern

Mont Cervin Palace Zermatt

Castello del Sole Ascona

Guarda Golf Hotel & Residences Crans-Montana

Riffelalp Resort 2222 m Zermatt

Hotel Eden Roc Ascona

LeCrans Hotel & Spa Crans-Montana

Baur au Lac Zürich

Grand Hotel Quellenhof & Spa Suites Bad Ragaz

Beau-Rivage Genève

La Réserve Eden au Lac Zurich Zürich

Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues Genève

The Dolder Grand Zürich

Widder Hotel Zürich

The Chedi Andermatt Andermatt

Tschuggen Grand Hotel Arosa

Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois Basel

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Swiss Deluxe Hotels

ANDERMATT

AROSA

ASCONA

Jörg Arnold, General Manager

Ingo & Silvana Schlösser, General Managers

Simon V. & Gabriela Jenny, General Managers

thechediandermatt.com

tschuggen.ch

castellodelsole.com

T +41 (0)41 888 74 88

T +41 (0)81 378 99 99

T +41 (0)91 791 02 02

ASCONA

BAD RAGAZ

BASEL

Simon Spiller, General Manager

Milos Colovic, General Manager

Philippe D. Clarinval, General Manager

edenroc.ch

resortragaz.ch

lestroisrois.com

T +41 (0)91 785 71 71

T +41 (0)81 303 30 30

T +41 (0)61 260 50 50

BERN

CRANS-MONTANA

Urs Bührer, General Manager

Maximilian von Reden, General Manager

Nati Felli, Owner & General Manager

bellevue-palace.ch

schweizerhofbern.com

guardagolf.com

T +41 (0)31 320 45 45

T +41 (0)31 326 80 80

T +41 (0)27 486 20 00

THE CHEDI ANDERMATT

HOTEL EDEN ROC

BELLEVUE PALACE

TSCHUGGEN GRAND HOTEL

GRAND HOTEL QUELLENHOF & SPA SUITES

HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF BERN & SPA

134

CASTELLO DEL SOLE

GRAND HOTEL LES TROIS ROIS

GUARDA GOLF HOTEL & RESIDENCES

CRANS-MONTANA

GENÈVE

Cornelia Destouches, General Manager

Robert P. Herr, General Manager

Martin Rhomberg, Regional Vice President &

lecrans.com

beau-rivage.ch

General Manager, fourseasons.com/geneva

T +41 (0)27 486 60 60

T +41 (0)22 716 66 66

T +41 (0)22 908 70 00

GENÈVE

GSTAAD

David Collas, General Manager

Andrea Scherz, Owner & General Manager

Daniel Koetser, Owner & Managing Director

mandarinoriental.com/geneva

palace.ch

bellevue-gstaad.ch

T +41 (0)22 909 00 00

T +41 (0)33 748 50 00

T +41 (0)33 748 00 00

GSTAAD

INTERLAKEN

François Grohens, Hotel Manager

Tim Weiland, General Manager

Peter Kämpfer, General Manager

parkgstaad.ch

thealpinagstaad.ch

victoria-jungfrau.ch

T +41 (0)33 748 98 00

+41 (0)33 888 98 88

T +41 (0)33 828 28 28

LAUSANNE

LAUSANNE-OUCHY

LE MONT-PÈLERIN

Isabelle von Burg, General Manager

Benjamin Chemoul, General Manager

Eric Favre, General Manager

lausanne-palace.ch

brp.ch

mirador.ch

T +41 (0)21 331 31 31

T +41 (0)21 613 33 33

T +41 (0)21 925 11 11

LECRANS HOTEL & SPA

MANDARIN ORIENTAL, GENEVA

PARK GSTAAD

LAUSANNE PALACE

BEAU-RIVAGE

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL DES BERGUES

GSTAAD PALACE

LE GRAND BELLEVUE

THE ALPINA GSTAAD

VICTORIA-JUNGFRAU GRAND HOTEL & SPA

BEAU-RIVAGE PALACE

135

LE MIRADOR RESORT & SPA

Your payment specialist.

worldline.com/merchant-services

136

LUGANO

LUZERN

MONTREUX

Giuseppe Rossi, Managing Director

Michael Smithuis, General Manager

T +41 (0)91 985 77 11

Christian Wildhaber, General Manager mandarinoriental.com/luzern T +41 (0)41 588 18 88

NEUCHÂTEL

PONTRESINA

ST. MORITZ

Delfim Santos, General Manager

Claudio Laager, General Manager

Richard Leuenberger, Managing Director

beau-rivage-hotel.ch

kronenhof.com

badruttspalace.com

T +41 (0)32 723 15 15

T +41 (0)81 830 30 30

T +41 (0)81 837 10 00

HOTEL SPLENDIDE ROYAL

splendide.ch

BEAU-RIVAGE HOTEL

ST. MORITZ

MANDARIN ORIENTAL PALACE

GRAND HOTEL KRONENHOF

FAIRMONT LE MONTREUX PALACE

fairmont.com/montreux T +41 (0)21 962 12 12

BADRUTT’S PALACE HOTEL

CARLTON HOTEL ST. MORITZ

KULM HOTEL ST. MORITZ

ST. MORITZ

Michael & Stephanie Lehnort, General Managers

Heinz E. & Jenny Hunkeler, General Managers

Peter & Esther Egli, General Managers

carlton-stmoritz.ch

kulm.com

suvrettahouse.ch

T +41 (0)81 836 70 00

T +41 (0)81 836 80 00

T +41 (0)81 836 36 36

VEVEY

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ZERMATT

Luc Califano, General Manager

Mathias Rohner, Managing Director

Markus Marti, General Manager

grandhoteldulac.ch

parkhotel-vitznau.ch

zermatterhof.ch

T +41 (0)21 925 06 06

T +41 (0)41 399 60 60

T +41 (0)27 966 66 00

GRAND HÔTEL DU LAC

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SUVRETTA HOUSE

GRAND HOTEL ZERMATTERHOF

´OUR MEMBER HOTELS ARE THE ULTIMATE HIGH-END HOTELS, WITH A GLOBAL REPUTATION AS THE PLACES TO BE.´ MICHAEL SMITHUIS, PRESIDENT SWISS DELUXE HOTELS

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Rafael Biner, General Manager

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Christian von Rechenberg, General Manager

montcervinpalace.ch

riffelalp.com

bauraulac.ch

T +41 (0)27 966 88 88

T +41 (0)27 966 05 55

T +41 (0)44 220 50 20

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Markus Granelli, General Manager

Daniel Weist, Managing Diector

lareserve-zurich.com

thedoldergrand.com

widderhotel.com

T +41 (0)44 266 25 25

T +41 (0)44 456 60 00

T +41 (0)44 224 25 26

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. n i z a g a M s a D . a Caminad e. l y t s e f i L . r u t l u K Köche. aben) bestellen. sg u A ei w (z .– 0 3 r: t CHF ren Sie mehr unte für CHF 24.– stat h o fa b Er sa . n re e h b e Ja rl t e tz ll o Je stilv in.ch/abo Lifestyle neu und caminadamagaz 144

H MAGAZINE THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF SWISS DELUXE HOTELS DISTRIBUTION H Magazine is distributed across the Swiss Deluxe Hotels member network, reaching a combined 1.5 million guests per year PUBLICATION H Magazine is published twice a year, in July and December PUBLISHER Swiss Deluxe Hotels | Augustinergasse 30 | 8001 Zürich EDITOR Evelyn Gorgos | gorgos@swissdeluxehotels.com

COVER PHOTO

DESIGN

The British Kandahar Ski Club is founded in the Bernese Oberland with the aim of promoting Alpine racing. The club’s activities lay the foundation for hosting the first Alpine World Ski Championships in 1931 in Mürren, Switzerland.

INTRODUCING GUESTS TO THE WORLD OF SWISS DELUXE HOTELS

Alex Lambrechts | alex@alexlambrechts.com Alexander Palacios | info@alexander-palacios.com

Fascinating and informative stories, interviews, and themed features on gastronomy, lifestyle, luxury, trends, and business topics, as well as interesting long reads. H Magazine conveys Swiss flair, savoir-vivre, and the well-established world of Swiss Deluxe Hotels and their sophisticated guests. Our features are written by a colourful mixture of engaging contributors. They offer guest experiences and glances behind the scenes. H Magazine is aimed at readers who love exquisite service and are interested in learning more about the passion and work of inspiring people who contribute to the success of Swiss Deluxe Hotels. The magazine aims to surprise and fascinate readers in an elegant fashion.

Beatrice Lessi | beatrice@askthemonsters.com Claudio del Principe | claudio@delprincipe.ch Clifford Lilley | clifford@clifford-lilley.com Dan Roznov | spy@champagnespy.com Daniel Föllmi | ink@danielfoellmi.ch Elena Steness | elena@elenasteness.com Enno Kapitza | contact@ennokapitza.de Martin Hoch | martin@nuvu.ch Nico Schaerer | mail@nicoschaerer.com Oliver Schmuki | oschmuki@gmail.com Patricia Bröhm | patricia.broehm@t-online.de Peter Keller | peter.keller@nzz.ch Stefan Hottinger-Behmer | stefan@thediscerningnomad.com Steffi Hidber | steffi@heypretty.ch Titus Arnu | titusarnu@mac.com Thomas Garms | thomas.garms@materialist.media PRINTED BY Stämpfli AG I Wölflistrasse 1 I 3001 Bern WEBSITE swissdeluxehotels.com H MAGAZINE ONLINE swissdeluxehotels.com/magazine

Would you like to sell H Magazine in your book shop? Please contact gorgos@swissdeluxehotels.com

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YOU CAN’T FAKE THE LUXE

Luxurious experience – gosh, I hate this marketing phrase so much. In my humble opinion, it is nothing but an over-used wannabe statement, a hollow battle cry to pimp mediocre products, and a shamelessly sneaky attempt to add some posh spice to a bland brand. I wish Zeus would throw punishing lightning bolts at marketers and sales reps – or was it the intern used as a scapegoat – repeatedly using this catchphrase, and ban them eternally from Olympus Deluxus. It shows lack of both creativity and sensibility for the individual, the marvellous, the extraordinary. And the goosebumps you get just thinking about it. This line serves as a licence to oversell and underdeliver. N’est-ce pas? You might argue that some things in this world are worthy of this description. Like flying First Class on SWISS, owning an Hermès Himalaya Birkin bag, or sipping the legendary Dom Pérignon Rosé 1959. But seriously, which professional would dare to promote these gracious experiences with such a trivial line, that could destroy their very magic, that many struggle to put into words. Luxury is – as a philosopher once eloquently

put it – a rebellion against the ordinary. I would go even further and call it a stylish protest to boredom. I am a firm believer that protest deserves original punchlines. After all, irreverence is the very root of creativity. Of course, we providers of luxury goods and services have all been guilty of overselling at some point. Recently this game has risen to a whole new level. How come? I believe a big driver is the shift to more shades of luxury than ever; pricewise-ratherunreachable brands introduce more lower-priced, entry-level products, apparently providing deluxe feelings, while other just-premium-notquite-luxe brands extend their range with uber-posh versions. Take Nike’s iconic Air Force One sneaker: the basic model costs € 120, then there are Virgil Abloh’s editions going for over € 75,000 at auctions, all designed from the same basic shape. Well done. But it is the less-iconic and moremainstream brands that tend to oversell more, by using silly phrases to grant themselves a birth of cool – from ice cream, cosmetics, pet food, coffee, organic vegetables, washing machines, to train rides and dentist visits – and a fast-track lane at the check-in to upgrade themselves, for panache and higher prices. And don’t even get me started on car brands. For some, a luxurious experience is the shrieking engine sound and the I’ve-made-it aura of a Ferrari, for others it is the livingroom-like noble interiors of a Bentley, oozing refined cosiness. And for people like myself, it is the quietly intelligent, progressive-yet-intuitive, dynamic gliding of an Audi e-tron. Either way, I believe that the extraordinary 146

always speaks for itself, no matter if it is le dernier cri or a true classic, and our emotions are mere interpretations of it. Modern-day luxury mindset comes in all sorts of colours and volumes; it is no longer just whispering but also singing loudly, as we all saw at Pharrell’s first fashion show for Louis Vuitton. That LV show was all about the details, showing much care for the extraordinary, that I am missing sometimes in luxury hotels. I am stunned by how obsessed with details in service or interiors many are, yet they fail to use the right words or tone of voice when selling them. Not just on websites, but on captions of social media posts. Forgive me for overreacting, but this is personal for me, because a decade ago I worked as a senior copywriter for Apple. What have I learned from working with the team around Steve Jobs? The brand feel must be meticulously reflected in every consumer touchpoint. Full stop. I wish luxury hotels would craft their copy a bit more carefully, especially in times of lack of staff and raising prices to ridiculous heights; you must not forget what your north star is, then brief your staff about it and let guests feels it. They don’t want just another luxurious experience. They want to be swept off their feet and make lasting memories that cannot be put into words. But whenever you do, make sure you don’t fake the luxe. We will be touching down at LCY shortly and I need to put away my iPhone now, which I used to write most of this article. People using laptops on planes are another thing that I hate. But that story is for another time. Until then: Bon Voyage!

WORDS DAN ROZNOV

BUBBLES SAVING LIVES

SAPOCYCLE IS A NON-PROFIT ORGANIZATION THAT RECYCLES DISCARDED HOTEL SOAPS AND DONATES THEM TO FAMILIES IN NEED TO PREVENT DISEASES. Scan the QR-Code and support one of these families! Thanks to your donation we will be able to repurpose your used soap left behind at check-out. 147

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SPEEDMASTER SEDNA™ GOLD Launched in 1957, the Speedmaster earned its nickname in 1969, when it became the first watch worn on the moon. This edition, while retaining the chronograph’s classic design elements, features a black step dial and is cased in OMEGA’s exclusive 18K Sedna™ gold. The long-lasting rose gold alloy retains its fiery colour and lustre over time, and is named after one of the reddest orbiting planetoids in our solar system. This striking timepiece is also a Co-Axial Master Chronometer, independently certified by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS) to guarantee the highest levels of accuracy, reliability and supreme resistance to magnetism on Earth and in space.

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