H Magazine Summer 2023

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SUMMER 2023 Into the green WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF SWISS DELUXE HOTELS Moving Mountains in Arosa 64 A Feast of Flavours 114 Ticino’s Eden on Earth 116 125 Purpose and Power The Pearl of the Alps 89 hip& hot ––– H MAGAZINE’S TRAVEL GUIDE CHF 12 / EUR 10

Quiet, impressive.

The new, fully electric Audi SQ8 e-tron models.

Future is an attitude

audi.ch
Escape to Anywhere You are not just a passenger. You are an Owner. netjets.com
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Personal service and Swiss hospitality make every flight with SWISS a luxurious treat.

A bit of self-indulgence.
swiss.com Made of Switzerland. Travel is what you make of it.

THIRST FOR SPECIAL MOMENTS. TIME RESERVED FOR US.

HERE’S TO THE DEPTHS.

Natural mineral water from the depth of the Swiss alps –full of strength, just like you!

DEFINE YOUR AMBITIONS. RESEARCH. SET YOUR GOALS. CARVE A NICHE. IMPROVE YOUR UNIQUE POSITION. TAILOR-MADE BRANDING. WRITE UP A MARKETING PLAN. ANALYTICS.

OPEN NEW DOORS. REACH YOUR TARGET AUDIENCE. DEVELOP ONE OF A KIND EXPERIENCES. GET THE RIGHT VISIBILITY. TRAIN YOUR TEAM. OPTIMIZE WORK-LIFE BALANCE. MONITOR YOUR SUCCESS.

TURN MORE HEADS.

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Bringing clarity amidst a complex world.

Positioner holistically combines creativity, technology and analytics to help distinctively develop and position hospitality brands. We orchestrate the positioning process across the entire guest experience journey with a method that involves exploration, design and execution. For over 23 years we have been working with exceptional hotels and destinations around the world to deliver measurable results.

positioner.com — For exceptional destinations that want to go places.

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Degussa: Your concierge for investments in precious metals.

Gold has been the strongest currency for 6,000 years and is therefore considered a solid long-term investment. As the largest independent precious metal trader in Europe outside the banking system, Degussa is able to offer you comprehensive advice in our Swiss branches in Zurich and Geneva. We help you compile your personal investment portfolio with a wide selection of Degussa-branded gold bars. Degussa bars are produced in Switzerland. Furthermore, they are LBMA-certified and bear a bank security number. Our bullion coins represent an alternative investment opportunity. For safe storage, we provide state-of-the-art safe deposit box facilities to protect your assets 24/7.

Further information and online shop at:

DEGUSSA-GOLDHANDEL.CH

Memberships:

16 Bleicherweg 41 · 8002 Zurich · Phone: +41 44 403 41 10 Quai du Mont-Blanc 5 · 1201 Geneva · Phone: +41 22 908 14 00 ZURICH I GENEVA I FRANKFURT I MADRID I LONDON
ACS N T H E CODE T O WIN GO L D

Get in the summer mood with our latest playlist. A luxurious blend of summer-inspired tracks, ideal to accompany those long afternoons in the sun or by the pool. Especially curated for us by The Music Architect.

he past few years have reshaped the way we live, work, and journey across the globe, and technology has permeated nearly every aspect of our lives. Never before have we been so well connected.

Nevertheless, from the moment we became aware that artificial intelligence can be a reliable advisor, a steadfast helper and copywriter for all situations in life, things have become slightly disconcerting. A disquieting feeling of distance and almost uncomfortable non-commitment seems to be slowly creeping in. Have you ever tried having an AI tool write a love letter on your behalf? The results may astonish you.

Without question, a technological development that offers us a plethora of possibilities for the future. But can future tech really replace the magic of a great story, the power of comforting words, or the simple sentence ‘This made me think of you’?

Don’t the very personal accounts of our authors genuinely stimulate the imagination and inspire our travel plans? Like our canine friend Oskar going to Basel this time to visit the Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois (see page 70), the early morning swim in the clear waters of Lake Maggiore (see page 116 ), and travelling with our travel scouts Martin Hoch and Nico Schaerer who take us on a tour through the Bündner Herrschaft (see page 36 ), where it remains wonderfully cool even at the height of summer. And how wonderful is it to indulge in the primal flavour of tomatoes on Claudio’s taste journey? (see page 102 ) Stories need storytellers, and we will never replace them, not one bit; this much, I promise you.

May our unconditional commitment and enthusiasm for personal experiences, the proud grandeur of fine details and the magic of discovery inspire you to enjoy the wondrous slowness of things in this fast-paced everyday life.

With this in mind, I now classically put my pen down. Here’s to a summer of exploration and discovery filled with warmth, connection, and unforgettable memories. Enjoy!

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© KO Photography + Film LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

DAN ROZNOV is a Zurich-based Creative Director, Content Creator and Public Speaker. He is also known as the blogger Champagne Spy and founder of Champagne & Friends – Switzerland’s premier champagne events. In his new column Bon Voyage the passionate traveller shares his musing and ponderings about modern-day luxury lifestyle. champagnespy.com

ILONA MARX Her insatiable curiosity and carefully penned travel reports have taken journalist Ilona Marx around the globe. As editor-in-chief of a German trade publication, she has travelled to over 50 metropolises, from Hong Kong to Helsinki; and Buenos Aires to Bangkok. Since 2017 the Düsseldorf-based writer has worked as a freelance contributor to renowned titles such as Konfekt, Vogue, Madame, GEO Saison, NZZ and Tagesspiegel. For H Magazine, she visits Castello del Sole for an early summer dip into the waters of Lago Maggiore in the Ticino region.

OLIVER SCHMUKI

As a father of two, copywriter for the creative agency Branders and person responsible for the production of Weltwoche's supplements, the Zurich native practices juggling everyday family life and his professional activities. Being a natural bon vivant, he is happiest when everything falls into place: writing, eating and travelling with his daughter and son. He finds relaxation on his bike, in the forest or while swimming in the lake.

SPECIAL THX TO

JÜRG WALDMEIER Photographer Jürg Waldmeier lives and works between Zurich, Munich and a small village in the middle of the Allgäu region. His photographic focus is on portraits and visual storytelling. Diving into new worlds is the greatest thing for him. His penchant for culinary and gastronomic topics has led him to portray over 100 chefs and producers.

DANIEL WIENER trained as a journalist in the 1970s at the Basler National-Zeitung. He spent his first 15 professional years as an editor and reporter. Daniel co-founded ecos, a leading consultancy for sustainable development in 1986, and headed it for the following 33 years. Since 2019, Wiener has been a freelance author and consultant as well as an independent board member, including at the Swiss infrastructure company Cargo sous terrain AG.

ANTONINA GERN A freelance photographer since 1990 specialising in portrait and reportage photography, Antonina Gern currently only accepts exclusive, special requests, having realised a cherished childhood dream by opening a beauty retreat in her hometown of Hamburg, where she offers luxurious skin treatments, combining her extensive dermatological knowledge to offer rejuvenating facial massages, using organic skincare products and natural fragrances under her last name Gern.

DANIEL FÖLLMI

As a trained graphic designer and passionate illustrator, Daniel Föllmi has been dedicated to his art since becoming motorically capable of wielding a pen. Regardless of the order size or the client, whether a large company or a private person, each stroke is executed with equal care and verve.

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CONTRIBUTORS

surprise with luxury

YOU CAN’T GO WRONG WITH THE MOST EXQUISITE VOUCHER OUT THERE. get your giftonlinevoucher

SWISSDELUXEHOTELS.COM

Established in 1934, the Swiss Deluxe Hotels group combines 39 of Switzerland’s most iconic five-star hotels:

ANDERMATT: The Chedi Andermatt AROSA : Tschuggen Grand Hotel ASCONA : Castello del Sole, Hotel Eden Roc BAD RAGAZ : Grand Hotel Quellenhof & Spa Suites BASEL : Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois

BERN : Bellevue Palace, Hotel Schweizerhof Bern & Spa CRANS-MONTANA : Guarda Golf Hotel & Residences, LeCrans Hotel & Spa GENÈVE: Beau-Rivage, Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues, Mandarin Oriental Geneva

GSTAAD : Gstaad Palace, Le Grand Bellevue, Park Gstaad, The Alpina Gstaad INTERLAKEN: Victoria-Jungfrau

Grand Hotel & Spa LAUSANNE : Beau-Rivage Palace, Lausanne Palace LE MONT-PÈLERIN : Le Mirador

Resort & Spa LUGANO : Hotel Splendide Royal LUZERN : Mandarin Oriental Palace Luzern MONTREUX : Fairmont Le Montreux Palace NEUCHÂTEL : Beau-Rivage Hotel PONTRESINA : Grand Hotel Kronenhof

ST. MORITZ : Badrutt’s Palace Hotel, Carlton Hotel St. Moritz, Kulm Hotel St. Moritz, Suvretta House VEVEY:

Grand Hôtel du Lac VITZNAU : Park Hotel Vitznau ZERMATT: Grand Hotel Zermatterhof, Mont Cervin Palace, Riffelalp Resort 2222 m ZÜRICH : Baur au Lac, La Réserve Eden au Lac, The Dolder Grand, Widder Hotel

SUMMER HIGHLIGHTS

Travel Guide

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Our tips for an unforgettable tour from the Bündner Herrschaft to Ticino. Compiled by Martin Hoch and Nico Schaerer.

Top Ten

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Our tips to immerse yourself into the wonders of the Engadine.

Spa Review

Seasonal Pick

Exploring The Chedi Andermatt with Beatrice Lessi.

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Get Well, Get Arosa

Fun pieces, objects of desire and some of necessity – to make your summer simply perfect. With greetings from Clifford Lilley.

The Gracious King

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Franz Faeh is fluent in seven languages and can cook hundreds of dishes off the cuff. Most outstanding, however, must be his warmth and dry humour. As experienced by Alex Kühn.

Three Times Lucky

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Join us for a curated evening of bar-hopping in Arosa with Oliver Schmuki.

Eden on Earth

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Lake Maggiore continues to attract the creative set and modern-day tourists to its shores to while away summer in this most charming corner of Ticino.

Swiss Top Events

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Wellness in a whole new way at the Bergoase Spa of the Tschuggen Grand Hotel Arosa.

Oskar

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Tartare in a bowl, non-alcoholic dog vodka, and Basler Leckerli. Five-star service at the Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois for our columnist’s black Labrador.

Suite Talk

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Three reasons to leave the Yash Chopra Suite at the Victoria-Jungfrau Interlaken and many more to stay. Recommended by Stefan Hottinger-Behmer.

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Entering a new era: Swiss Top Events’ dedication to sustainability promises a bright future for the organisation.

Bon Voyage

A column by Dan Roznov.

Standards

Editorial 17

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Deluxe
Swiss Deluxe Hotels Overview
Credits
Swiss
Hotels Locations 134
136 Publishing
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Finding the balance between a precise argument and a pointed moment. This is how we have been making the cut that takes communication into other spheres for 25 years. See for yourself: www.ddcom.ch

DD COM Communication Arts

Whether it’s branding, campaigns, digital, motion, editorial, graphic design or POS – we deliver. With creativity, dedication and professionalism. welcome@ddcom.ch

the guests are back –but what’s different?

The hospitality industry’s latest figures clearly show that guests are back! Not from all regions and countries in equal measure, but occupancy and turnover have almost reached pre-pandemic levels. So, is everything back to normal? Not exactly. The world has changed, guest behaviour has changed, and so has how a hotel in the 5-star superior segment is managed.

Guests expect a greater focus on sustainability, and internal processes have become even more digitalised, while at the same time, the need for personalised attention has become even more significant. Will ChatGPT and other artificial intelligence applications soon take over guest services at the front desk? Probably not, but what we can learn from AI algorithms is to anticipate the needs and wishes of our guests based on previous experiences. It’s not enough to have the guest’s favourite newspaper ready or to reserve their preferred table in our restaurants. It’s about providing unsurpassed levels of service that surprise and delight our guests. This requires a great deal of attention and professionalism on the part of the staff. And that is, perhaps, the biggest challenge we face. How do we succeed in attracting and retaining a highly skilled workforce? One thing distinguishing Swiss Deluxe properties from other hotels and categories is that our guests are looked after and served by personalities who have

been working in the same business for years, if not decades, and who give the hotel a familiar face. As we continue to provide this level of service and care to our long-standing regular guests and new customers, it is paramount that we also nurture our most valuable resource – our employees.

According to a new study from England, travel behaviour has changed, especially in the European markets, to the effect that tourists are increasingly choosing destinations far away from more familiar ones and are also increasingly choosing periods outside the main travel seasons to embark on new discoveries. This represents myriad opportunities for Switzerland’s seasonal hospitality industry and the wide-ranging destinations and hotels that are part of Swiss Deluxe Hotels’ distinguished portfolio.

The hospitality industry is no stranger to dealing with crises and change. It has consistently allowed us to address concerns and challenges while building momentum toward a brighter future.

With this in mind, I wish you a buoyant summer as I bid you goodbye as Managing Director of Swiss Deluxe Hotels. It will be my pleasure to continue to meet and interact with our discerning guests in one of our 39 member hotels. Having said that, I am pleased to welcome my successor Nathalie Seiler-Hayez, who will greet you here next time.

Sincerely yours,

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THOUGHTS

the eureka effect

Late in the evening when the last guests have left, Priska Thuring likes to sit on the terrace of her restaurant Stara Skola (meaning Old School) under an old mulberry tree looking across the sea over green forests and vineyards. She remembers how it all began with a bottle of wine: a Brombonero , a ruby-red Refosco from a neighbouring organic winery. The very first sip electrified her: ‘A true aha-moment.’ She caught a whiff of ripe plums and figs, and tasted dark chocolate and a hint of tobacco. But above all, the wine spoke of the place where it was grown, the northwesternmost tip of Istria, near the Slovenian border. ‘I felt I could taste everything it took to make this great wine right then and there. The sun, the terroir, the raindrops – and above all, a lot of time. It was suddenly clear to me that the way this wine tasted was how I wanted to cook in the future.’ That same evening, she wrote a letter to the owners of the winery asking if they’d be interested in opening a restaurant together.

Nestled in a former school building, only a stone’s throw away from the Clai winery, a dream came true for the 40 -year-old. ‘I’m committed to honest, unadulterated cuisine

that is close to nature. No frills on the plate, only good produce from this blessed region.’ Her vision translates into delicately spiced paté of hake served with homemade bread, or poached ray wing wrapped in courgette blossom. To celebrate the restaurant’s opening, she and her chefs roasted a whole pig and served oven-fresh pork pie with fresh vegetables from their own garden as the main course.

‘Here in Istria, I have the feeling that I have truly arrived,’ she says. It was a path that took the Swiss national around the globe before setting roots here. Born in the canton of Zurich, she grew up abroad on a farm in Canada. At the age of 18, she returned home and trained as a cook at the renowned Dolder Grand Hotel in Zurich. For love, she moved to Croatia as a young woman, where she made a name for herself at the Hotel Lone in Rovinj. For years she travelled the world as a private chef onboard luxury yachts, before finally settling on dry land. Not far from her restaurant, she has bought a house and planted a vegetable garden. ‘Here I can live with nature,’ she says. ‘Finally, a place that feels like home.’

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WORDS PATRICIA BRÖHM PHOTO GÜNTER STANDL

alpine gold

Several hundred tonnes of saffron are harvested worldwide every year. A staggering 90% of the world’s most expensive spice is grown in Iran and exported from there all over the globe. However, this delicate spice also thrives in the mountains of Graubünden and is increasingly cultivated by regional farmers – a niche product with great potential and increasing in popularity.

For a long time, saffron was considered more expensive than gold. A kilogram can cost up to 30,000 Swiss francs, making it a luxury good. However, for a dish like a saffron risotto, you only need 50 to 100 milligrams of the red gold.

Saffron is a species of crocus (scientific name: Crocus sativus) that blooms purple in autumn. It takes between 150,000 and 200,000 flowers to produce one kilogram of saffron. The thin threads we use as a spice grow in the plant’s blossom and must be harvested by hand.

WORDS MARTIN HOCH © Switzerland Tourism

Saffron is also considered a natural remedy, having various health-promoting attributes. It has antiinflammatory, diuretic, and diaphoretic properties and is even considered an aphrodisiac. But be careful; depending on the dosage, it can be poisonous: only 20 grams of saffron are enough to kill a person!

The fact that saffron grows well in this region, also known for its excellent wines, is no coincidence. Much like wine, saffron favours this region’s slightly more Mediterranean climate. Beat and Salome from Et al grow saffron along with farmer Jürg Adank in the Bündner Herrschaft. The sun-drenched products are sold as spice, gin, honey or tagliatelle via their online shop at etal.boutique.

Much more than saffron grows in the mountains of Graubünden. The rugged region can certainly score as a producer of many other high-quality and innovative products. Visionary farmers work hand in hand with local universities creating value for the region and its produce. Marketed under the label graubündenVIVA, their products are available online, directly from the producers, and at selected sales points. graubuendenviva.ch

alpine salmon

Which foods have a tradition in the mountains of Graubünden?

The answer is easy: the very best mountain cheese, spicy dried meats or sweet nut cakes. But salmon? You would probably expect to source it in Scotland. But for a few years, Swiss Lachs have been farming top-quality, sustainable salmon in Misox, Graubünden’s southern valley.

Thanks to a closed-loop system, the need for fresh water is reduced to 2%. In addition to conserving water as a resource, this eliminates the addition of chemicals and antibiotics. The salmon is not only fresher, healthier and more sustainable, but it also tastes better.

In addition to its high quality, the Atlantic salmon farmed by Swiss Lachs packs a punch with healthy proteins, vitamins, essential minerals, and omega-3 fatty acids. One single serving of lowcalorie salmon covers the need for essential omega-3 fatty acids for five days.

© [oknemada1] / Shutterstock
WORDS MARTIN HOCH

Swiss Lachs supplies usable fish waste, such as cuttings and trimmings, to specific caterers. Fish heads and any other production waste go to animal feed producers. The remaining waste, as well as all filter residue, is processed into biogas.

Swiss Lachs sources its salmon eggs from Iceland. These are free of viruses and disease and, thanks to being reared in an indoor facility, are also free of parasites. This means that the fresh salmon fillets can also be consumed raw as sashimi without the need for any freezing treatments.

Before smoking, the salmon is soaked in a brine marinade overnight with salt, sugar, pepper and various Alpine herbs. The salmon is then hung for 24 hours so that the flavours can fully develop in the fillet. Smoking is done traditionally with burning oak wood and horizontal airflow.

The abundance of purest high-altitude spring water offers unique conditions for Swiss salmon to be produced in Lostallo. Local production accounts for shorter distribution routes, resulting in lower CO2 emissions. Last but not least, Lostallo benefits from the creation of valuable jobs in this remote region of Switzerland.

SWISS LACHS Camp di Polac 6558 Lostallo swisslachs.ch

alpine vineyards

The Bündner Herrschaft is one of Switzerland’s best-known wine-growing regions. Among the grape varieties, Pinot noir leads the pack. Traditional and innovative winegrowers also cultivate a number of exciting specialities in white and red—an introduction to a small region of great wines.

Among the grape varieties to set the tone is Pinot noir, also known as Blauburgunder. More than 40 other varieties are also cultivated from fresh Riesling-Silvaner and the local speciality Completer, to known grapes like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Merlot. The grapes grow mainly in limestone-rich soil in this mild climate in an area known to be amongst the warmest in Switzerland.

The growing region of the Bündner Herrschaft and the Bündner Rheintal stretches across 420 hectares from Bonaduz to Fläsch along the Rhine. Small vineyards are also located in the remote Misox, which is still part of the canton of Graubünden despite accents of the Ticino region.

Graubünden produces very different but primarily varietal wines with individual characters. Pinot noir comes forward with a fruity emphasis without using wood. Complex, powerful crus are matured in barrels. Due to the diversity of locally-cultivated varieties, a wide range of styles is available in white wines.

WORDS PETER KELLER © Heidiland Tourismus

Most of the approximately 340 winegrowers supply their grapes to larger wineries. The winegrowers who cellar their own grapes make their living from the wine, with farmers owning an average of only 1.4 hectares of land. The wine harvests fluctuate depending on the year. 2020, for example, saw the production of about 15,000 hectolitres, while 2021 saw around 20,000 hectolitres.

The majority of the wines produced are sold directly from the vineyards, mainly to customers in German-speaking Switzerland. The same applies to wines from the Bündner Herrschaft, where exports are virtually non-existent. One major exception are the Graubünden-based winegrowers, Daniel and Martha Gantenbein from Fläsch, who sell a good 40 per cent of their production abroad.

The wine lists of renowned establishments, such as Grand Resort Bad Ragaz and Schloss Schauenstein, boast a wide range of gems from this region. Wines from Graubünden are prominently represented. The Alter Torkel restaurant in Jenins exclusively stocks wines from Graubünden.

Prices for wines of the Bündner Herrschaft region have risen steadily in recent years due to higher costs and increasing demand. Twenty francs will get you a good quality bottle, while an excellent barrel wine easily sells for 50 to 60 francs. Selected wines can fetch even more.

There are two options for tasting or purchasing a Graubünden wine: visit a winery and buy your favourites on the spot, or order a glass or bottle of fine Pinot noir in a restaurant you can trust.

The Bündner Herrschaft is unique and often called the ‘Burgundy of Switzerland’. Pinot noir also plays an essential role in other German-speaking regions of Switzerland, such as Zurich, Thurgau, Aargau, and Schaffhausen, which markets itself as Blauburgunderland.

If I had to characterise the Bündner Herrschaft region in three phrases, they would be great wine-making personalities, pioneers of excellent Pinot noir wines, and beautiful landscapes paired with top gastronomy.

THE EXCELLENCE OF TICINO

sustainable alpinism

Fresh goat’s cheese with mountain herb brioche, Brussels sprouts with nut cream, knöpfle with roasted yeast and truffles: Sven Wassmer’s dishes look pure and elegant on the plate. The culinary director at Grand Resort Bad Ragaz describes his style of cooking as sustainable alpinism. Ninety percent of the ingredients used in his creations at the critically acclaimed Memories restaurant are sourced regionally, are in season and inspired by the traditions of the Alpine region. His fastidious preoccupation with techniques such as fermentation and smoking, his unwavering commitment to regional produce and quality, and his love of experimentation have

earned Wassmer the highest recognition: Memories was awarded three Michelin stars for the first time in 2022, one of only four Swiss restaurants to receive the honour. Anyone who comes to taste the char with burnt Sennenrahm and fir oil (one of his signature dishes) is immediately spellbound by a multisensory and emotional experience. Memories of a walk in the forest, still wet from the summer rain under the sun; or trying to catch trout by hand in a stream. It’s amazing what memories taste can evoke. To relive these at home, Sven Wassmer has published a culinary tome offering insights into his memorable cooking style and gastronomic universe.

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WORDS TITUS ARNU PHOTO LUKAS LIENHARD Meine Alpenküche, AT-Verlag

a journey through the alps

Fasten your seatbelts and prepare to embark on an adventure through winding Alpine passes and remote mountain valleys to the Mediterranean shores of Lake Maggiore. The natural wonders of the Engadin region await!

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TICINO

GRAUBÜNDEN

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ALPINE CIRCLE

The engine is running as the anticipation rises. Our upcoming road trip takes us on the Ruta Cumpleta, the most comprehensive tour of the Alpine Circle, over the most scenic roads through the cantons of Graubünden and Ticino. Join us on a journey crossing grandiose passes while stopping at magnificent hotels and restaurants.

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WORDS MARTIN HOCH PHOTOS NICO SCHAERER

We are Nico Schaerer and Martin Hoch, photographer and journalist. We have spent years travelling the world together, producing feature stories and corresponding images. On this trip we show our favourite corner of Switzerland.

01 — TSCHUGGEN GRAND HOTEL, AROSA

The start of our tour provides a taste of what lies ahead: relaxation and enjoyment. The Tschuggen Grand Hotel provides both at the Bergoase Spa, designed by architect Mario Botta, and with its top-notch culinary offering (see page 66).

– tschuggencollection.ch

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TRAVEL GUIDE
´THE SWISS ALPS ARE SIMPLY A DREAM DESTINATION FOR ROAD TRIPS.´

02 — AROSA BÄRENLAND, AROSA

From a platform, visitors can watch bears going about their business within an enclosed reserve. Brought in and looked after by the animal welfare organisation Vier Pfoten (Four Paws), rescued bears are given a new home amidst Arosa’s stunning natural beauty. – arosabaerenland.ch

03 — MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS, CHUR

A pitstop in this Alpine town is well worth it. Stroll through the streets of the historic old town, and be sure to visit Chur’s landmark fine arts museum. Get your caffeine fix at the museum’s stylish café, voted by Gault&Millau as one of the country’s top ten coffee houses!

kunstmuseum.gr.ch, museumscafe-chur.ch

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TRAVEL GUIDE

SERTIG VALLEY — DAVOS

Davos may be world-famous for hosting the World Economic Forum, but it certainly has its fair share of idyllic places waiting to be discovered. A trip to the Sertig Valley is recommended for its beauty and the restaurant Walserhuus, not far from the gushing Ducan waterfall.

– walserhuus.ch

ABOVE SEA LEVEL 1861m

The Engadine is a high valley – its villages are between 1,450 m and 1,800 m above sea level, regularly attracting top athletes for highaltitude training.

ABOVE SEA LEVEL

SWISS NATIONAL PARK — ZERNEZ

Founded in 1914, the Swiss National Park is the wildest corner of Switzerland and the oldest national park in the Alps. Visitors can expect to encounter marmots, ibexes, deer or the sight of a bearded vulture.

Founded in 1914, the Swiss National Park is the wildest corner of Switzerland oldest national park in the Alps. Visitors can to marmots, deer or of a vulture. –

– nationalpark.ch

1474m

07 — ENGADINE VILLAGES

Quick detours to explore local villages are well worth it. Explore towns such as the picturesque Zuoz or Bever on foot, and when hunger calls, be sure to stop at Krone La Punt to sample top chef James Baron’s culinary talents.

– krone-lapunt.ch

08 — KUNSTCAFÉ, SAMEDAN

At Kunstcafé, guests are encouraged to leave everyday life outside when entering the ample, light-flooded space. In addition to artful cappuccinos, coffees and teas, pastries and panini are recommended by host Jamyang Zathok.

– +41 79 443 74 50

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09 — MORTERATSCH GLACIER, PONTRESINA

The icy giants have been in retreat for decades, but glaciers such as the Morteratsch remain as impressive as ever. The Boval hut offers incredible glacier vistas and can be reached on foot from Morteratsch railway station in just under 3 hours. Refreshments and typical cakes await to round off the experience.

10 — ST. MORITZ

Favoured by sophisticates, this magical Alpine resort saw its story begin over 150 years ago. The birthplace of winter tourism in the Alps, St. Moritz remains on top of the world as a luxury winter escape destination. It is also home to four Swiss Deluxe Hotels: Badrutt’s Palace, Carlton Hotel, Kulm Hotel and Suvretta House.

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11 — ORMA SWISS WHISKY, CORVATSCH

A whisky distillery at 3,303 metres above sea level next to the iconic Corvatsch mountain station may be unexpected. Still, it is the brainchild of Rinaldo Willy and Pascal Mittner, whose Swiss iteration of the good stuff has nothing to fear when compared to its Scottish counterparts.

– ormawhisky.ch

12 — SOUTHERN VALLEYS OF GRAUBÜNDEN

When travelling through the Engadine, it is worth visiting the southern valleys of Valposchiavo, Val Müstair and Bergell. Time seems to have stood still at the foot of these towering mountain ranges perfect for hiking, fishing or biking amidst stunning natural beauty.

– valposchiavo.ch, val-muestair.ch, bregaglia.ch

The canton of Graubünden is trilingual: German, Italian and Rhaeto-Romanic are spoken here.

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© Filip Zuan

ALBULA PASS

While the official route of the Alpine Circle leads over the Julier Pass, a trip over the Albula Pass is also worthwhile. Here you encounter a remote mountain world with the blue-green shimmering Palpuognasee and the charming village of Bergün. For lunch, it is worth visiting the Kurhaus Bergün.

kurhausberguen.ch

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ABOVE SEA LEVEL 2312m

THE ALPINE CIRCLE STANDS APART WITH ITS UNIQUE BLEND OF ARCHAIC MOUNTAINOUS LANDSCAPES AND DELIGHTFUL SOUTHERN FLAIR.

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BENDS

JULIER PASS

During the winter, the Julier Pass serves as the sole gateway to the Engadine; in the summer, it presents a captivating driving experience. Beginning at an elevation of 2,284 metres, the pass descends 1,400 metres to Tiefencastel, meandering past charming Alpine villages and offering breathtaking vistas of majestic mountain ranges. Those searching for good regional fare will find satisfying options at Hotel Pitz Mitgel in Savognin.

– pizmitgel.ch

ORIGEN FESTIVAL CULTURAL — RIOM

In the small mountain cultural institution was theologian and theatre Netzer, staging plays, ballets and concerts buildings,

In the small mountain village of Riom, a cultural institution was founded by theologian and theatre scholar Giovanni Netzer, staging plays, ballets and concerts in several local buildings, including barns and a castle.

– origen.ch

ABOVE SEA LEVEL 1257m

HEIGHT OF BRIDGE

LANDWASSER VIADUCT — FILISUR

The Albula Line of the Rhaetian Railway, which winds its way from Thusis to St. Moritz, is a place of longing for railway enthusiasts. Thanks to viaducts and tunnels, the trains master 1,000 metres of altitude without a cogwheel amid steep rock faces. The most famous and most photographed structure along the line is the Landwasser Viaduct near Filisur. If you book a ride on the Glacier Express from St. Moritz to Zermatt, you can witness this and many other picture-perfect sightings. – glacierexpress.ch

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65m

18 — ANDEER DAIRY, ANDEER

Lovers of great cheese head straight to Andeer. This is where Maria Meyer

produce cheeses that are second to none and are particularly popular with top restaurateurs.

– sennerei-andeer.ch

19 — ROFFLA GORGE, ANDEER

– rofflaschlucht.ch

In the canton of Graubünden, there are five nature parks in addition to the Swiss National Park. Andeer is located within the Beverin Natural Park.

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and Martin Bienerth A pristine waterfall lays off the route from Andeer up the San Bernardino Pass. It can be reached through the side door of a restaurant and along a rocky path that the owner created over several years using 8,000 explosive charges.
TRAVEL GUIDE

20 — OSTERIA LANDARENCA, CALANCA VALLEY

Leaving the car at Selma, a small cable car takes you to Landarenca. A fairytale spot away from all the hustle and bustle, it is home to Osteria Landarenca, where Noemi Negretti and Valentino Borgonovo spoil their guests with organic delicacies from their own garden.

landarenca.ch

21 — GROTTI DI CAMA, CAMA

After the San Bernardino Pass, you can already smell the south – in the truest sense of the word. Because even before you reach Ticino at Bellinzona, the grotti are lined up one after the other. Grotti are small, mostly stone-built restaurants that specialise in simple but high-quality food. They serve risotto, polenta, various kinds of ham, cheese and salami. In Cama, in the middle of the woods, there are 46 grotti, which were once used as natural refrigerators to store products. Three of these grotti still welcome hungry guests.

– grotticama.ch

The electric spearhead with the four rings, the Audi RS e-tron GT, is not only a chic eye-catcher but also provides an extra dose of power on the Alpine Circle. Thanks to its aerodynamic body, the Gran Turismo achieves a range of up to 500 kilometres. Sustainable and dynamic driving pleasure guaranteed.

TRAVEL GUIDE

23 — CASTELLO DEL SOLE, ASCONA

A slice of paradise set amongst vast grounds with rice fields, a bird sanctuary, fruit gardens and even its own beach (see page 118). Foodies will delight in chef Matthias Rook’s menu at the hotel’s Locanda Barbarossa. – castellodelsole.com

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´THE TRANQUILITY AND PROXIMITY TO NATURE MAKE CASTELLO DEL SOLE ONE OF MY FAVOURITE HOTELS.´

25 — HOTEL EDEN ROC, ASCONA

Priceless views are to be had from the shores of Lake Maggiore on the grounds of this legendary hotel. Throw in some palm trees, the Mediterranean climate and the two-Michelin-starred La Brezza by chef Marco Campanella, and you've got yourself a winning combination.

– tschuggencollection.ch

24 — MADONNA DEL SASSO, ORSELINA

The sanctuary is perched on a rocky promontory high above Locarno. From its centre, you can comfortably reach the holy mountain with the Funicolare. If you want to go even higher, take the gondola from above the church to the Cardada viewpoint. You will be delighted with a wide view over the mountains and the lake. If you are adventurous, you can paraglide from here down to the lake with an experienced pilot.

cardada.ch

26 — SPLENDIDE ROYAL, LUGANO

The Splendide Royal on the shores of Lake Lugano is an excellent starting point to discover the city and its surrounding nature. A visit to the renowned art museum Museo d’arte della Svizzera italiana (MASI) or a trip to the local mountains San Salvatore and Monte Brè are more than worth it.

– splendide.ch, masilugano.ch

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TRAVEL GUIDE

LENGTH OF ROAD

THREE-PASS TOUR: SUSTEN — GRIMSEL — FURKA

One of the greatest adventures for racing cyclists and motorcyclists starts directly from Andermatt: in one day, you must ride over the three passes of Susten, Grimsel and Furka. In the process, you climb 3,500 metres of altitude over 120 kilometres and descend again.

– andermatt.ch

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4km

THE CHEDI — ANDERMATT

The multi-award-winning hotel nestled in the Alpine massif celebrates excellence in all disciplines, from its stylish spa and convivial bar to its elegant rooms and top-class restaurants (see page 82).

– thechediandermatt.com

ABOVE SEA LEVEL 1437m

13km

LENGTH OF THE CANYON

RHINE GORGE

Around 10,000 years ago, a massive rockfall transformed the region around Flims-Laax into a landscape with enchanting forests and a gorge often referred to as the Grand Canyon of Switzerland. Book a rafting tour and paddle through the impressive landscape if you fancy an adventure. If you prefer to take it easy, hike through the gorge and eat at the lauded Gasthaus am Brunnen restaurant run by host and chef Matthias Althof.

– gasthausambrunnen.com

30m

MAXIMUM DEPTH

LAKE CAUMA — FLIMS

To round off the Alpine Circle, swim in the turquoise waters of Lake Cauma. The lake is regularly ranked as one of Switzerland’s most beautiful mountain lakes for its mesmerising beauty. – flimslaax.com

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tips for the ultimate immersion into the wonders of the Engadine

Whether seeking Alpine adventures, culinary delights, or simply looking to dive into Switzerland’s inspired natural beauty, the Engadin has it all. With its stunning landscapes, pristine lakes, and charming villages, it’s no wonder the region consistently ranks as a top destination for travellers seeking unforgettable experiences.

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N O 1 – MUOTTAS

Experience the awe-inspiring panoramic views of the high Alpine valley and Engadine lake plateau from the Romantik Hotel Muottas Muragl. With culinary delights plated by Lukas Pfaff and his team, this is an ideal place to indulge in the beauty of local nature and the tastes of Switzerland. Two highly recommended hikes begin at the hotel for those searching for adventure. One will take you up to the Segantinihütte while the other leads through Fuorcla Muragl, Val Prüna, to Val Chamuera, from which La Punt Chamues-ch is only a stone’s throw away. And getting there is an experience in itself, as you’ll be transported up and down by a historic funicular from Punt Muragl in Samedan.

muottasmuragl.ch

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E N G A D I N T I P S TOP10 T R A V E L G U I DE
TRAVEL GUIDE GRAUBÜNDEN
© Gian Giovanoli

N O 2 – ENGADINER TORTE

Visiting the Engadin region wouldn’t be complete without indulging in a slice or two of the world-famous Engadiner Torte. Baked by the renowned Kochendörfer bakery and confectioner in Pontresina, this delicacy is only one of the many tempting treats you’ll find here. Be sure to exercise self-control when shopping at Via Maistra 230 in Pontresina!

albris.ch

N O 3 – SUVRETTA LOOP

For any self-respecting cycling enthusiast, the Suvretta Loop is a must. The bike tour (No. 671) starts from Celerina’s railway station. It takes bikers up to Alp Laret, perfect for a peaceful rest, before reaching Marguns, Piz Nair, and the wild Val Bever, eventually leading back down to Celerina, covering 34 kilometres.

– engadin.ch

N O 4 – FLY FISHING ON LAKE LUNGHIN

Take a journey to beautiful Lake Lunghin from Maloja at dawn, and embark on an early morning hike to enjoy this serene mountain lake. Experience fly-fishing on the lake and savour the views as daybreak lights up the sky. You can find more information and fishing gear in Silvaplana at Engadinfisch on Via Maistra 11.

– Plazzet 14, 7503 Samedan

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© Werner Locher © Adina Vetsch © Filip Zuan

N O 5 – SHOPPING ST. MORITZ

Welcome to Via Serlas, the exclusive shopping mile of St. Moritz. Need a break from heavy-duty retail therapy?

Head to Badrutt’s Palace and take in the stunning views overlooking Lake St. Moritz while enjoying a drink in the majestic Le Grand Hall.

– badruttspalace.com

N O 6 – CARRIAGE RIDE TO VAL ROSEG

Experience the romantic beauty of Val Roseg with a horsedrawn carriage ride through the village of Pontresina. Embark on a four-hour hike from there to Fuorcla Surlej and on to Corvatsch’s middle station at Murtèl. Treat yourself to a delicious slice of cake at the Hotel Restaurant Roseg and take in the views of the Roseg glacier.

– engadin-kutschen.ch

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© Filip Zuan © Romano Salis © Segantini Museum

N O 7 – KITESURFING

Are you looking for some adrenaline-pumping adventure in the heart of Swiss Alpine bliss? Head over to Lake Silvaplana, the holy grail of kitesurfing. With the reliable Maloja wind, thrill-seekers take to the water most days. If you’re new to the sport, join Yannick Galbinec’s team from Swiss Kitesurf in Silvaplana for beginner and advanced courses. – kitesailing.ch

N O 8 – SEGANTINI MUSEUM

Artists and writers have long celebrated the Engadin, and the work of Giovanni Segantini came to life in his five final years here. His beautiful paintings capture the essence of the Alpine landscapes and their residents – farmers and shepherds. Visit the Segantini Museum at Via Somplaz 30 in St. Moritz and immerse yourself in his art.

– segantini-museum.ch

N O 9 –

KULM GOLF

The Kulm Hotel’s 9-hole golf course is just a taste of what the region offers. With the St. Moritz Golf Club and two other 18-hole courses – one in Zuoz and another in Samedan, the oldest golf course in Switzerland – the Engadin can truly be described as a golfer’s paradise.

stmoritz-golfclub.ch

N O 10 – FEX VALLEY

The Fex Valley is a hidden gem just after Sils. This picture-perfect landscape within the majestic mountain range has been largely untouched and is heavily protected. Explore the valley on foot, by bike, or in a traditional horse-drawn carriage. Stop for refreshments at Alp da Segl’s Alpine restaurant, indulging in the beauty of this untouched panorama.

– sils.ch

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© Christof Sonderegger © Switzerland Tourism

SIMON & GABRIELA JENNY

General Managers, Castello del Sole, Ascona

The farm Terreni alla Maggia is part of the Castello del Sole estate. How does a farm complement a luxury hotel? We describe Terreni alla Maggia as a ‘farm with top wines and innovative specialities’. This definition fits very well within the context of our hotel’s overall service proposition, which embodies what we call a ‘one resort feeling’ across 140 hectares of land.

Is it fair to say that nature is the new luxury?

Yes, guests are increasingly looking for a reimagined feeling of luxury, one that is steeped in tranquillity and nature. Activities such as our weekly 33-minute Rice Talk with Rice Man Markus Giger are a big hit. With trees up to 250 years old dotted all over our grounds, the 33-Minute Treewalk with our head gardener is similarly popular. Furthermore, guests interested in ornithology can take part in the 33-minute Birdwatching in our very own sanctuary.

And in the hotel’s garden, guests are allowed to pick and eat their own fruit? Yes, at Castello del Sole we have been cultivating this iteration of downto-earth attitude for generations. One of our guests, who is now over 70 years old, has recently told us how he and his siblings used to pick apples as children before departing our hotel, innocently hoping that the apples would last them until their next stay.

Is it still possible to raise the bar as hosts when pretty much everything about a property is already unique? Of course! In the areas of service, sustainability, and sincere friendliness, we do everything we can to set new standards, and we accomplish this with the support of a highly motivated team.

What’s your ultimate insider tip for a memorable stay in Ticino? Besides the beautiful lakes and the palm trees, guests can also explore high-Alpine valleys in Ticino. An insider tip is Val Bavona with its gushing waterfalls and picturesque villages teeming with authentic rustici. At the end of the valley, a mountain railway takes visitors up to Robiei at 1,900 metres above sea level, where one can observe marmots, Alpine goat-antelopes and ibexes!

– castellodelsole.com

questions
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peak performance

It’s a short, but transformative journey on the aerial walkway connecting the plush Tschuggen Grand Hotel to the Bergoase Spa with its iconic light sails. For you’re not leaving comfort behind – you’re on your way to experience wellness in a whole new way.

65 SPA REVIEW – TSCHUGGEN GRAND HOTEL, AROSA
WORDS STEFFI HIDBER

As a somewhat-pampered beauty editor who gets to enjoy spa and well-being on quite a high level, it would be easy to become a bit jaded when visiting a new spa. And admittedly, one of my main goals, both on my beauty website Hey Pretty and in my magazine features, is to actively focus on keeping a sense of wonder and delight alive. Destinations like the Tschuggen Grand Hotel make it clear to me that I’ve chosen the right line of work. This feeling is reinforced in me once again while I’m heading through the glass walkway that connects the historic hotel building with one of Arosa’s most recognisable buildings – the Tschuggen Bergoase.

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‘Restoring time’s true value’ is one of the main intentions the Moving Mountains concept so vividly brings to life in all four Tschuggen Collection hotels. In my opinion, this goes for the Bergoase spa in particular. The iconic design, first unveiled in 2006, is immediately recognisable as one of Mario Botta’s most iconic creations, thanks to his beautiful light sails . These beautiful windows, which measure up to 13 metres in height, infuse the spa with sunlight by day, and turn into a multicolour art installation at night, perfectly showing just how visionary the Ticino-born architect really is.

Arranged over four floors and measuring an impressive 5,000 square metres, the Bergoase spa features soaring ceilings, paredback features with granite, wood and glass that feel like taking a deep, calming breath. Here, holistic well-being is offered that aims not just to quickly soothe frayed

nerves or tired skin, but to pre-sent opportunities for each guest to discover ways to ignite long-term changes in their daily lives. The spa concept is geared towards harmony of the body, mind and soul. And as simple as it might sound, it really is easier to understand in a setting that is both straight forward, but also incredibly close to the forces of nature surrounding it. From the Swiss granite that is used copiously (and almost decadently) in the entire spa to the blue sky and wispy clouds that pass over the numerous skylights overhead: it’s honestly almost impossible not to be lulled into a sense of comfort and well-being, all the while feeling deeply connected to the elements of air, earth and water. And yes, even fire: to be found in the beautiful sauna area and in various quiet zones, situated all over the spa.

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Physiodermie Equilibre Essentiel Expert Treatment

– CHF 210 (60 min)

Swiss brand Physiodermie, owned by Geneva-based Laboratoire Sintyl, is known for its excellent quality, cutting-edge technology, and commitment to sustainability. Therapist Ekaterina started by analysing my dehydrated skin before beginning a wonderfully gentle and relaxing facial. A thorough cleansing and toning ritual followed by almost twenty minutes of lymphatic massage left my skin wonderfully rosy. Nurtured by an ultra-hydrating mask suitably topped by SPF, I went for a quick change of clothing, switching flip flops for boots, and hopped on the hotel’s private Tschuggen Express to enjoy a cup of tea up on the mountain.

Located on its own, light-filled floor, the treatment area of the Bergoase offers a carefully edited range of beauty experiences that illustrate the Tschuggen’s Moving Mountains philosophy. You can also choose from various holistic massages and therapies, including Hydro Baths tailored to your current needs, detoxing rituals and workshops for breathwork, meditation and yoga.

I’ve been lucky enough to have been able to enjoy the Bergoase spa both in winter, with snow gently falling on my head while I splishsplashed about in the heated outdoor pool, and in summer, when Arosa offers a wonderful escape

from my hot hometown of Zurich. I’ve gone swimming in the Untersee in Arosa on a balmy 22 ° C, and on a -12 °C day (thanks to the invitation of hotel director Ingo Schlösser, who is a huge fan of ice bathing and convinced me to join him in the middle of winter!). And I can’t decide when I find Arosa, and the Tschuggen Grand Hotel, more delightful. What I do know, though, is that I’d like more time here. Time to talk, to relax and to enjoy the calming energy architect Mario Botta may have created, but the surrounding Alpine forest sustains and deepens.

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STEFFI ’ S SIGNATURE TREATMENT TIP

HIGH ENERGY

HIGHLIGHTS

This summer, it’s all going to be about keeping our energy levels high, our skin glowing, our hair bouncy and selfie-ready, and our minds and hearts open. It’s all about the allure of the new, and these exquisite new beauty releases fit the bill perfectly.

1 – Designed to maintain the delicate balance of our skin’s ecosystem, the microbiome, this visionary facecare fluid was visionary upon its first release in 1980, and is still ahead of its time in 2023.

2 – Five years in the making, Nuxe’s first haircare range contains a new, patented ferment of Camellia Oil that nourishes intensely without weighing down the hair. And the shampoo, conditioner and hair mask smell amazing, too!

3 – This carefully formulated, all-natural facial oil by a newcomer brand based in Zurich and Sardinia contains powerful anti-aging ingredients like Sardinian mastic tree fruit, Immortelle flower and nature’s retinol, Bakuchiol.

4 – Sustainability meets sensuality: the reformulated and beautifully pigmented Joli Rouge lipsticks contain natural oils that leave the lips wonderfully hydrated. And best of all: the luxurious case is refillable!

5 – I love the French term bonne mine , which translates to looking well , and fits Hermès’ latest make-up launch perfectly. This silky trio of powders blend to create a healthy-looking, sunkissed glow.

Iknosgeneration

69 BEAUTY TIPS
Clarins Joli Rouge Refillable Lipstick (in 41 shades), from CHF 40 NUXE Hair Prodigieux shampoo, conditioner and hair mask from CHF 18 to CHF 33
1 4
Sisley ecological compound (125 ml) approx. CHF 260
2
Hermès Plein Air mineral powder, from CHF 126
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Immortelle Restorative Facial Oil (30ml) from CHF 130, available at iknosgeneration.ch

and oskar goes to

basel

Tartare in the bowl, non-alcoholic dog vodka, and Basler Leckerli treats galore: at the Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois, our columnist’s black Labrador enjoys five-star service fit for a king.

Basilisks are fascinating specimens in the realm of creatures. These reptiles come across as small dragons but do not feed on armoured knights, preferring insects, snails, frogs, fish, flowers, and fruits instead. They can walk on water, which is why they are also known as Jesus Christ lizards. In Basel, the basilisk is encountered at every turn: as a bridge guardian, sculpture on church façades, coat of arms holder, fountain figure, and flag emblem.

Unlike the real basilisk, which lives in the tropical rainforests of Latin America, the Swiss basilisk is a legendary figure. The mythical creature looks like a cross between a chicken and a snake. According to legend, the basilisk is more dangerous than a fire-breathing dragon. Its breath was poisonous, it is said, and whoever fell beneath its gaze would become

petrified on the spot. Perhaps all the creature needed was to have its teeth cleaned and a pair of glasses. But despite its unpleasant appearance, the basilisk has become the namesake and mascot of the city of Basel.

Oskar also has bad breath, but it is not poisonous. Fortunately, nor is his gaze deadly, melting human hearts rather than petrifying them. The black Labrador has neither wings nor a snake’s head, but his velvety fur and typical doggy look entice passers-by in Basel’s old town to give a typically Swiss, long drawn-out ‘Jöööööh!’ Some bend down beside him and ask to pet him. It is allowed. His first encounter with a basilisk is peaceful: he sniffs at the picturesque basilisk fountain on the banks of the Rhine and drinks from the small water basin placed at ground level, especially for dogs.

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WORDS TITUS ARNU PHOTOS ENNO KAPITZA

Promenades along the riverbank, plenty of trees, quiet cobbled streets, half-timbered houses, and water-spouting dragons: Oskar gets to know the city on the Rhine from its most photogenic side. Especially since he is permitted to join his master, lodging at the number one address in town, the Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois, ideally situated by the Middle Rhine Bridge. From Oskar’s point of view, the reception could hardly be more pleasant: at check-in, the welcoming receptionist hands him a wooden box chockful of assorted Basler Leckerli ready to delight the four-legged guest: Vegetable Cookies, Carrot Drops, Game Goodiez, Lamb & Rice, Beef Treats, and Mini Knuckles. Oskar can’t choose and resigns himself to a sample of each, just in case.

Oskar weighs 35 kilos and doesn’t exactly fit into a handbag like his distant Chihuahua cousins. He’s a big guy, but not a big shot like so many of the guests who have resided at Les Trois Rois: Napoleon, Queen Elizabeth II, Pablo Picasso, Thomas Mann, Richard Wagner, Duke Ellington, the Dalai Lama, the Rolling Stones, and many other prominent guests have enjoyed the hotel’s exclusive hospitality. Theodor Herzl sojourned in a room on the first floor in 1897 when he laid the foundation for the creation of the State of Israel at the International Zionist Congress. The house breathes history and culture, with originals by Picasso, Chagall, and Beuys hanging on the walls. Many areas of the building complex are listed. Art Deco furniture, red and gold carpets, and striking paintings give the impression of being in an art museum. And you’re really allowed to check in here with a big black dog?

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You are. ‘Please, come in!’ exclaims the friendly doorman, holding the door open for his new guest. ‘Welcome, Oskar!’ greets Philippe Clarinval, general manager of the hotel. The owners of the hotel, entrepreneurs Ursula and Thomas Straumann, have a heart for pets and have a dog of their own, an Airedale terrier. Despite the valuable art and objects displayed throughout the property, dogs are welcome in the hotel, out of place only in the three Michelin-starred restaurant Cheval Blanc. The Straumanns also came up with the idea of keeping a box of dog treats at the reception. Oskar would award the highest possible score on Dog Trip Advisor for this alone if such a portal existed.

On the way to our room, we pass the statues of the three kings in the stairwell. Kaspar, Melchior, and Balthasar are holding caskets in their hands; according to biblical tradition, these contained gold, frankincense, and myrrh as gifts on the occasion of the birth of Jesus. Oskar sniffs curiously toward the crowned figures: could there be treats in these boxes too? After all, you can count on anything in this hotel, his gaze seems to say. And indeed, another pleasant surprise awaits him in our room on the third floor, convincing Oskar that Les Trois Rois undisputedly belongs to the topclass of dog hotels.

Velvety shimmering wallpaper, historic furniture, and priceless vistas of the Middle Rhine Bridge: the river junior suite is a feast for the eyes! But Oskar only has sights for the bowl set out especially for him by the window. It contains fresh beef tartare, decorated with the words Oskar and is garnished with parsley. What a majestic welcome! ‘Am I

really allowed to eat that?’ You are. The dog pounces on the raw meat and devours it within seconds, along with the greens. Then he bites heartily into the vodka bottle lying next to the bowl. It’s only a squeaky plush toy and absolutely alcohol-free. Oskar is having the time of his life.

While walking through the old town, we encounter more basilisks, large and small dogs, and some cheeky pigeons that dare to get too close to Oskar. He barks furiously and would like nothing more than to turn the birds into tartare, but I forbid him to do so for merciful – and aesthetic reasons. This time, you can’t! On Münsterplatz, we meet two fellow black male Labradors. But these three kings have little time to spare and lack the patience to line up gracefully for a photo. Oskar grew up in the country and often finds the hustle and bustle of the big city demanding. However, with the help of some nerve-calming snacks –vegan snacks from the little magic box labelled Les Trois Rois – everything progresses well, even down to the shaky crossing on the Vogel Gryff pedestrian ferry.

Back at the hotel, Oskar is allowed to accompany me to the brasserie serving classics such as Crêpes Suzette, pike-perch fillet on champagne cabbage, and tartare with French fries. Oskar is also enthusiastic about the almost religious rituals that take place in the brasserie, mainly as they include his new favourite dish. ‘Our guests come to enjoy and celebrate this culture consciously,’ explains General Manager Clarinval, while Maître d’Hôtel Hervé Mahler stands at a counter in the middle of the restaurant solemnly preparing tartare.

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One hundred and twenty grams of raw minced beef, egg yolk, sambal oelek, capers, cornichons, chopped onions, parsley, ketchup, and mustard – Mahler presents the ingredients on a tray at the table before skilfully mixing everything in a bowl. Oskar follows every movement of the maître’s hand as devoutly as a classical music fan follows the movements of a celebrated conductor. His mouth waters, but this time the dish is meant for his master, and this preparation would be too spicy for him. Legend has it that the Tatars invented raw minced steak by tenderising the meat under their saddles while riding on their war campaigns before later devouring it. Even if this is a myth, the Tatars (from the Greek those who come from hell ) probably earned their savage reputation dishonestly. In any case, they were believed to feed on raw meat, which to this day still seems slightly barbaric to minds of the more tender disposition.

Not to Oskar, though. But he finds it barbaric and highly unfair that he is denied the deliciously spiced delicacy in the brasserie. His joy is all the greater when we return to the suite, and his bowl is once again filled with his favourite dish: another tartare! So you don’t have to be a King Poodle or Cavalier King Charles Spaniel to quite literally be treated like a king at the Grand Hotel Trois Rois. This bourgeois Labrador feels like a Royal Canine. Long live King Oskar IV!

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´HIS BOWL IS ONCE AGAIN FILLED WITH HIS FAVOURITE DISH: ANOTHER TARTARE!´

suite talk

As an exquisite tribute to late filmmaker Yash Chopra who brought the beauty of Interlaken to the silver screen, an eponymous suite transports guests to a world of opulence and glamour, reminiscent of the director’s lavish film sets.

Nestled between the shimmering waters of Lake Thun and Lake Brienz, Interlaken has long been a coveted destination for travellers seeking the perfect blend of natural beauty, adventure, and luxury. With its snow-capped peaks, verdant meadows, and picturesque Swiss chalets, this charming town epitomises an idyllic Alpine getaway.

At its heart lies the historic Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa with its Belle Époque façade and picture-perfect views of the Jungfrau summit. The legendary hotel is home to the Yash Chopra Suite, a testament to Bollywood’s enduring love affair with this enchanting town immortalised in iconic films directed by Chopra. The 75 -square-metre suite has been meticulously designed to pay homage to Chopra’s illustrious career and his love for Switzerland. In its original iteration, an impressive collection of memorabilia adorned the walls, including original film posters, behind-the-scenes photographs, and

even Chopra’s own Swiss cowbell, awarded to him by the Swiss government for his role in promoting tourism. A more recent revamp introduced a more contemporary and harmonious blend of classic Swiss elegance and vibrant elements of the subcontinent, reflecting the cross-cultural connection forged by Chopra’s films in a slightly more subdued way.

The living area, which is resplendent with rich wallpaper, plush sofas and elegant details, invites guests to relax and unwind in spirited surroundings. At the same time, the private balcony offers breathtaking views of the surrounding Alpine landscape, evoking scenes from Chopra’s epic love stories. Those looking to retrace Chopra’s footsteps can embark on a guided Bollywood tour, visiting iconic filming locations and learning about the history of Swiss-Indian cinematic ties.

The suite’s exquisite design, the hotel’s unparalleled hospitality, and the allure of Interlaken create an unforgettable experience that transcends the boundaries of cinema and reality. In the words of Yash Chopra himself, ‘Films have the power to capture dreams,’ and the Yash Chopra Suite hits the spot in bringing those dreams to life.

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reasons to leave the suite:

Radius serves an inventive menu committed to locally-sourced produce from no further than a 50-kilometre radius. This unique approach highlights the freshness and quality of Swiss ingredients while supporting local farmers and reducing the restaurant’s carbon footprint. Chef Stefan Beer skilfully combines these ingredients with innovative culinary techniques to create a symphony of flavours in a relaxed ambience, indicative of a more contemporary fine-dining experience.

Founding the Center for Prevention of Aging over 20 years ago, Professor Jacques Proust’s ideals find their way onto the treatment menu of Nescens Spa. Featuring personalised treatments emphasising a holistic approach, the Nescens Spa ensures a bespoke and transformative journey in a tranquil sanctuary set against Interlaken’s picturesque landscape. Dedicated spa suites make sure aficionados stay close to the grand hotel’s award-winning amenities.

Unparalleled in its Alpine grandeur, the Jungfrauhoch is known as the Top of Europe. This iconic summit at 3,454 metres offers visitors awe-inspiring views of majestic snow-capped peaks, vast glaciers, and picturesque valleys. Embark on a thrilling train journey through the heart of the mountains to reach this remarkable vantage point, where unforgettable impressions and views await the intrepid traveller.

1. DINING 2. PAMPERING 3. SIGHTSEEING

circle of progress

Swiss Deluxe Hotels, in concert with its partners Audi Switzerland and Prestige Magazine, brought together an eclectic mix of entrepreneurs, visionaries, and forward-thinkers from various sectors to spark stimulating conversations on the topic of transformation.

‘Luxury brands prioritize quality, craftsmanship, and cultural relevance over ostentation, appealing to consumers seeking sophistication and substance.’

Markus Kramer BRAND AFFAIRS AG was one of the key note speakers.

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The second iteration in the Circle of Progress talk series, held at The Dolder Grand in Zurich, focused on essential impulses and vital shifts accompanying the current transformations within the luxury sector. The evening was anchored by a line-up of both stimulating and inspiring figures. Thought leaders rubbed shoulders with entrepreneurs, visionaries shared insights with decision-makers, and the automotive sector engaged in dynamic dialogues with communicators and hosts. The event’s speakers included Markus Kramer, MD Brand Affairs and Visiting Professor Bayes Business School London, Dieter Jermann, Brand Director Audi Schweiz, Oliver Brunschwiler, a consultant, entrepreneur, and member of the Board of Directors of Freitag AG, and Heiko Stahl, General Manager Switzerland/Austria of Vitra.

LUXURY: BACK TO THE FUTURE

The luxury sector offers valuable lessons for other industries to learn from. Adapting to changing values, Luxury brands align with societal priorities such as sustainability and ethics, appealing to conscious consumers seeking authenticity. Emphasizing branding is another key takeaway. Luxury brands create desire and exclusivity by evoking emotions and telling compelling stories. This approach helps businesses differentiate themselves and build customer loyalty. Luxury brands prioritize quality, craftsmanship, and cultural relevance over ostentation, appealing to consumers seeking sophistication and substance. By incorporating these lessons, businesses across industries can meet evolving consumer desires, establish meaningful connections, and drive long-term success.

THE NEW WORKPLACE

Guided by the theme of The New Workplace Purpose, Heiko Stahl affirmed the notion that hybrid

working has firmly established its place in our future. He tackled the pertinent question of the evolving purpose of our future offices and illuminated the potential within spaces of interaction to foster meaningful connections. The office evolves into more than just a physical space — it becomes a tangible reflection of a culture’s identity, shaping our behaviour and actions within its confines. The workplace thus emerges as a hub for collaboration, learning, and sharing, with opportunities for spontaneous encounters.

SUSTAINABLE GROWTH

Oliver Brunschwiler has been instrumental in steering the growth and transformation of Freitag AG from multiple vantage points. In 2018 , he assumed the mantle of Lead Link in the holocratic organisation, a role comparable to a CEO. However, merely three years later, he transitioned his operational duties to a democratically elected leadership collective. This strategic move aimed to encourage selforganised growth and expedite the circular transformation of his company and other organisations and brands. ‘Ideally, a company is propelled by its purpose rather than individual personalities,’ Brunschwiler asserts. ‘When a company defines itself by its values and creates meaning, it attracts people

who recognise change as an opportunity. They are compelled to actively shape the future of the company, brand or organisation by proactively applying their skills.’ In stark contrast, Brunschwiler warns, ‘If a company clings to its decades-old modus operandi and resists future changes, it’s likely to falter in the battle for talent.’

MOBILITY TRANSFORMATION

Dieter Jermann, Brand Director Audi Schweiz, is a champion of quality and used the platform to address the challenges of transformation within the automotive industry. ‘Today, producing beautiful or fast cars is no longer enough. We must evolve from a vehicle manufacturer to a mobility and ecosystem provider with maximum customer focus.’ Audi’s charging hub presents an innovative fusion of charging stations and lounges. It not only addresses the anticipated surge in future demand but also transforms charging time into a period of active engagement for users. The hub’s modular container cubes house used lithium-ion batteries from retired Audi test vehicles, in addition to fast-charging infrastructure with minimal strain on the local power grid. Audi inaugurated Switzerland’s first charging hub in Zurich just last November as a testament to its forward-thinking approach.

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´THE WAY YOUR COMPANY TREATS EMPLOYEES AND HOW EMPLOYEES TREAT ONE ANOTHER CAN POSITIVELY AFFECT THEIR ACTIONS – OR CAN PLACE YOUR ORGANIZATION AT RISK.´
CIRCLE OF PROGRESS
HEIKO STAHL
80 ABONNIEREN SIE JETZT PRESTIGE FÜR NUR CHF 39.– IM JAHR. THE LIFE LUXURY WAY OF prestigemagazin.com

asia meets the alps

WORDS BEATRICE LESSI

Arriving at the destination. Here is the famous Asian Alpine style: the façade of the Chedi, made of wood and glass, is decidedly modern but cosy. The atmosphere, upon entering, is intimate and enveloping despite the five-metre ceilings and huge spaces. Buy Now or Cry Later, says a neon sign in the store next to the reception desk, and I crack a smile.

Fire crackles in the fireplaces, also protected by glass. An endless array of small crystal cubes descends from the ceiling amid white orchids. The glass behind the reception desk reveals the blue of the Olympic-size pool surrounded by snow –the iconic spa. I resolve to return soon to photograph some details, because I almost don’t know where to look anymore. There are so many details I want to copy or fix in my memory. After checking in – accompanied, of course, by tea and small warm towels – I enter my room.

DRAMATIC BEAUTY

If Turandot were composed today, Giacomo Puccini would probably have her gazing up at the stars from her (warm) room at The Chedi Andermatt, and Prince Calaf would be singing her Nessun Dorma! wrapped in the iconic, fluffy beige bathrobe of his spa guests. Yes, because not only is the spectacular design of this hotel worthy of a beautiful Princess of China in fairy tale times, but it is also a highly original blend of traditional Alpine elegance and surprisingly minimalist Oriental grace. An unexpected mix that can be found in the lines, colours, food, and extreme attention to well-being typical of the East. In short, Europe meets Asia in one of the world’s most famous hotels. I visited it one weekend to see if it really lived up to expectations, and to treat myself to the luxury of snow training in a great location, as I am preparing for a very special marathon for me, in Antarctica.

WHERE IT IS LOCATED

Andermatt is located a little more than an hour’s drive from Zurich, in the Orsera Valley, at an altitude of 1,440 metres. The area is first of all known as a ski resort, with scenic and challenging descents – famous are its black ones – on the Gemsstock, a mountain facing north and therefore always well covered with snow and also suitable for off-piste skiers. But personally I knew it because I had been there several times in the summer to visit the wonderful golf course just minutes away from the Chedi, or to take nice runs and walks among gorges, waterfalls and clear Alpine lakes. Being so close to Zurich, where I live, I had always gone there from morning to night, and this is probably one of the positive effects of the Chedi: it made the area more attractive and full of amenities, and it gave a touch of glamour to what used to be a small, traditional Swiss village.

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ROOMS

Every room here has a view, and is practically a suite. I look at the huge grey stone shower and, without glasses, I can barely see the ceiling –because it is too high! The wooden panels are decorated with elegant recessed lights, and a mini-table is placed in front of the bed, orientalstyle. A fireplace and terrace with a view complete the elegant feeling.

I personally love it when you don’t see any of the staff, but they magically appear when you need them. That’s how it is at the Chedi: no one bothers, but if you ask for something you realise they know exactly who you are and where you are staying. The chefs who work and produce their craft in the beautiful open kitchens are never bothered by guests and offer tastings and smiles. It is true that the hotel is large and so many faces change when the staff changes shifts, but everyone is knowledgeable, helpful and in good spirits. A pleasant mix of ages, types and ethnicities makes for a light and relaxed atmosphere. Who to recommend it to. To anyone on a high budget, of course, and looking for luxury, excellence and something really special for a special occasion. ‘ At dawn I will win’ says the famous song Vincerò you might have heard from Pavarotti. Who knows, after this weekend of training and relaxation, I might be able to win too, in my own small way, by finishing the marathon in Antarctica. I think it’s great to pursue one’s dreams with passion. Having the privilege of doing it, for two days, at the Chedi, recharging yourself completely, is a luxury that makes one grateful, a suave moment. I will win!

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DINNER

It’s time for dinner, and I choose, from the various culinary options, the main restaurant. I confess: I do it because I like it aesthetically. The wine and cheese tower, in the centre, cool and very tall, is a feast of tastings decorated with fruits, breads, nuts, jams, and mustards. The walls, made of glass, hold bottles of wine. All around, the four huge open kitchens offer a spectacle within a spectacle – of course I find some Italian chefs and start laughing and chatting. The large room filled with wooden chandeliers and crystal, and huge vases of orchids repeated as far as the eye can see complete the restaurant. I choose the Asian menu as does my husband, almost without reading what it is. It is a selection of Chedi classics and iconic dishes, I am told. Indeed, from the very first hors d’oeuvre, the experience is sensory. Herbs, colours, scents, different temperatures and textures, a generous amount of ingredients and portions make us get to the dessert without fully appreciating it. Here, perhaps this is the only flaw in the menu: a little too much!

RUNNER’S TIPS

Are you already familiar with trail running? If not, just wake up the child in you! Trail running is much more fun than boring asphalt and will let you play with puddles, tree roots, stones, leaves, and be in total flow with nature. Andermatt is a great place for this activity and offers beautiful trails for all levels. Remember to stay light, so leave your big heavy backpack at home. Good shoes, your phone, water and an energy bar or a little snack are all you need.

Here are three popular routes around Andermatt to run or hike while enjoying spectacular views.

ANDERMATT CIRCULAR

Generally considered an easy route, this beloved hike takes a little more than two hours to complete. It’s a nature conservation and no-hunting area with high Alpine alluvial landscapes. If you want to enjoy some solitude and calm, go early or late to avoid the crowd.

ANDERMATT-GOTTHARD PASS

SPA

The next morning at 7 am I decide to go for a swim in the Chedi’s iconic swimming pool. Nessun dorma! sang the prince in Turandot, but I can guarantee that at 7 o’clock, many people do sleep, because it’s very quiet. Two more pools offer the possibility of thermal training, which will be very useful for running in Antarctica.

A point-to-point trail of moderate difficulty, it can be walked in an average of 3 hours 43 mins, or run. The path leads to a beautiful mountain pass village with inns, Hospental. You also pass the old mail coach road and follow the mule track up to the Gotthard Pass.

DIAVOLO VIA FERRATA

I had to try this because I like its name so much: literally Devil Iron Street, where the word iron indicates a route fitted with cables, suitable for beginner climbers. A 6 km loop near Andermatt, it’s known for its gorgeous views down into the wild gorge and its traffic routes.

83 SEASONAL PICK
WORDS

the view of jenny hunkeler

Leonardo da Vinci once said, ‘Simplicity is the highest level of perfection.’ Those who visit the Engadine encounter this simplicity with ease – in the tranquillity of nature – and the effortless luxury of the Kulm Hotel St. Moritz. General Managers and spouses Jenny and Heinz E. Hunkeler are committed to this daily. We visit them to unveil their unwavering enthusiasm for their place of work and residence.

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´I HAVE HAD A STRONG CONNECTION WITH NATURE SINCE CHILDHOOD, IT’S WHERE I FIND MY INNER BALANCE.´

A wander from St. Moritz to Lake Staz is rewarded by a typically local kind of magic. At first, one treks along the shores of stunning Lake St. Moritz. It is frozen over in winter and hosts much-loved events such as the Snow Polo World Cup or White Turf while sailing regattas are held during the summer months. A little further on, the stroll continues through a beautiful forest before leading visitors to the idyllic shores of Lake Staz. Jenny and Heinz Hunkeler run the legendary Kulm Hotel in St. Moritz and favour a visit to this picturesque lakefront location early in the day. ‘During the morning hours, a mystical fog hangs over the lake.’ The husband-and-wife duo feel great appreciation for a life amidst such beautiful natural surroundings; a landscape guests fly halfway around the world to experience.

´I ENJOY IT WHEN ST. MORITZ IS PULSATING AND BURSTING WITH JOIE DE VIVRE, BUT I EQUALLY CHERISH THE MID-SEASON WHEN CALM RETURNS.´

Despite living in this Alpine paradise of sorts, Jenny Hunkeler keeps her feet firmly planted in the chores of everyday life, both as a leader and a mother. In order to perform at the top of her game she craves space and time for herself on a regular basis. ‘I need silence. That’s how I find my balance amidst a rewarding but also demanding workload.’

These quiet moments give her serenity and fresh energy while teaching her to focus. ‘I have learned to focus on one thing at a time – whether it’s raising children, doing sports or dealing with guests’ requests.’ It’s an attitude that works well for her and, not least, for the guests at the legendary Kulm Hotel.

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THE VIEW
88 FACES Jahresabo 8 Ausgaben für CHF/€ 54.–

GET WELL, GET AROSA –DESTINATION WELL-BEING

sunglasses are a fashion statement and wardrobe investment all at the same time! Fashion accessories and eyewear made from recycled and deadstock acetate. Designed in Switzerland. Handmade in Italy. – larma.studio

The name fusalp goes back to the good old days of 1952 when it was founded by two visionary tailors in Annecy, France. Today fusalp produce contemporary collections for both winter and summer for the slopes as well as the city. Combining technicity, functionality, and elegance – the three pillars of the brand’s DNA.

fusalp.com

WORDS CLIFFORD LILLEY

Down to earth and up in Arosa… destination WELLBEING! Unpretentious, authentic –that’s Arosa... Chill and let the good times roll... on the slopes, on the streets or at the spa. Take it easy. That’s Arosa style.

Arosa is THE place to get your feet back on the ground and feel the pull of nature. Indoors, outdoors, all year round.

Herewith some fun pieces, some objects of desire and some of necessity – to make your summer simply perfect.

See you there!

Nothing heralds the coming of spring more beautifully than the sight of budding flowers in an English country garden. These luxurious silk scarves and other gorgeous accessories from Seidenmann Switzerland literally transport one in a brilliant splash of colour, to the heights of luxury and style. Collections for him and her. – seidenmann.ch

Not just for sunny days but for every day! Protect and enhance your skin with this sunscreen not only intended for use in the summer but all year round. The best protection for sun-seekers, by one who should know: Max Gisler ski instructor and owner of Gisler Sport, Arosa.

gislersport.ch

There are sneakers… and then there are VYN’S! Nothing is more elevated than a pair of cool, classic VYN’S. The fact that they come with interchangeable heels in a variety of colours for a personal statement makes them the most unique and innovative sneakers out there.

Hermès recently unveiled this stunning collection of innovative luggage with customisable wheels in canvas or leather, in tune with the times and perfect for a few days away. If it’s high performance you’re after, with cases like this, it’s in the bag! – hermes.com

– vyn.one

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CLIFFORD’S MUST-HAVES

It’s all about the wood! Become your own best wood-cutter with this charming tool set –the perfect gift, or to teach yourself and while away those summer afternoons on the terrace. Available online from Kurt’s Schweizer Geschenke or Klötzli’s.

kurts.ch

Who doesn’t like to look back and relive those special moments in life? Record your everyday experiences in this handsome 5-year diary, and you’ll look back in delight one day. – leuchtturm1917.ch

The latest fashion boutique to open in Arosa with a great selection of cool clobber for sporty and lifestyle fashion aficionados bears the feisty name of RAW. Find that special outfit right here from designer denims to Peaky Blinders tweed caps to the classic plaid shirt and everything in-between. Take a walk on the wild side, take a walk to RAW!

rawstation.ch

The coolest destination in Arosa for all those searching for great food and wine, glorious scenery in an idyllic setting, and even a sleep-over perhaps, in the charming rustical hotel. Star chef Beat Caduff and hotelier Hitch Leu, local boys to boot, have pulled off an absolute coup… In short, the Alpenblick has it all! – alpenblickarosa.ch

No other author writes as sensually about ingredients and food preparation as Claudio Del Principe. He makes us rediscover familiar and also boldly explore new things. He sharpens our eye, trains our taste, and offers safe guidance for a relaxing cooking experience led by seasonal instinct. A cookbook full of inspiration and love of good food. Day by day. – delprincipe.ch

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CLIFFORD’S MUST-HAVES

This beautifully illustrated book of inspiring photos by the photographer, geographer, and mountain guide Robert Bösch, contains a superb selection of images of Ticino and Graubünden. Published by Tschuggen Collection AG as part of the Tschuggen Collection, it is available both on-site at Tschuggen Collection Hotels and online. – tschuggencollection.ch

This gemstone named Ballerina (Morganite 10,84 ct.) is part of Doris Hangartner’s unique gem collection in the heart of Zurich. Doris’ Gem Salon specialises in coloured gemstones and helps clients find their perfect gem match. She creates oneoff pieces of jewellery and integrates brilliant gem finds into a growing number of private Gem Portfolios. At Doris Hangartner, clients can dive into a gem universe and discover gems with all five senses. Doris describes the gemstone Ballerina as follows: a swirling ballerina dancing to her heart’s desire, exuding her joy and sparkle. Join her in the spotlight, the star as she pirouettes.

dorishangartner.com

This is your go-to address for sustainable and exclusive leather goods, designed in Switzerland and made in Italy. Cervo Volante transforms hides from red deer hunting, that are otherwise disposed of, into unique leather products. From elegant watch straps, beautiful boots and bags to the fabulous Vitra and Cervo Volante Eames Lounge Chair, made from wild Swiss deer leather. This brand has taken craftsmanship to another level.

– cervovolante.com

Happy to introduce ‘Vague d’Or’ the new Champagne

1er Cru Blanc de Blancs to you. Specially created for the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues Geneva by the champagne cooperative Vignobles & Quintessence in collaboration with the hotel’s Head Sommelier Salvatore Salerno.

fourseasons.com/geneva

Used fishing nets make up 40 per cent of the waste in the sea. What can we do about it?

‘This is the question we asked ourselves when we developed the NET-SWIMWEAR collection VON ALICE . It is made from regenerated fishing nets and nylon waste, called ECONYL®.’ – neumuhle.ch

Brioni Eau de Parfum Essentiel. This unexpected and compelling new fragrance from the luxury menswear brand Brioni, unleashes a power of its own and conjures up all the freshness and sunshine of a warm summer’s day. The bottle is adorned with a satin label, inspired by the ones sewn inside Brioni bespoke suits. As the scent lingers, memories are made. Another glorious summer! Enjoy!

lalique-group.com

Präzision aus der Uhrenstadt Biel

Die sknife Messer und Bestecke sind heute in den weltbesten Restaurants mit über 200 Michelin Ster nen sowie in über 20 Swiss Deluxe Hotels eingedeckt.

Die Fertigung erfolgt in der Uhrenstadt Biel mit nam haften Uhrenherstellern wie Rolex. sknife hat somit Zugang zu neusten Stahllegierungen. Dies in Kom bination mit stabilisiertem Schweizer Holz macht die sknife Messer auch einsetzbar in Restaurants am Meer und auf Yachten.

Das Taschenmesser Volldamast mit über 1‘600 La gen ermöglicht ein federleichtes Öffnen dank einem Hightech-Keramik Gleitlager und ist neu auch in der Luxusvariante mit 51 Diamanten erhältlich.

www.sknife.com

highlights culinary

Food is culture. Food is passion. Food is love. As some have perfected the art of creating delightful dishes, let us sit down to sample these gastronomical treasures and indulge our senses.

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THE GRACIOUS KING

the Palace’s kitchen

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of

Franz Faeh is fluent in seven languages and can cook hundreds of dishes off the cuff. His most outstanding qualities, however, must be his warmth and dry humour.

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WORDS ALEX KÜHN © Gstaad Palace Melanie Uhkötter

It’s almost impossible to catch Franz Faeh off his feet. ‘I need the challenge and the adrenaline even; otherwise, I quickly get bored,’ says the Culinary Director of the legendary Gstaad Palace, heading a 55 -strong brigade in this Bernese Oberland fairytale castle which has been hosting discerning patrons since 1913.

Even at his busiest, you’d be hard-pressed to witness a raised eyebrow – briefly at most – as he ensures that every plate makes it to the pass on time through precise instructions and skilful handling of the kitchen. A staggering 136 dish-

es comprise the offer of the Palace’s menu, but that’s only the tip of the iceberg. ‘Around three-quarters of our regulars don’t order from the menu, letting us know what they feel like eating instead. Often they have their favourite dishes specially made to their taste,’ Faeh explains.

Keeping notes on guests’ preferences in a folder as thick as three fingers, the boss notes who opts for their Zürcher Geschnetzeltes without onions. However, he knows most special wishes by heart, along with countless recipes ranging from classic French and rustic Swiss to authentic Thai.

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´EVEN THE SIMPLE THINGS DESERVE THE GREATEST CARE AND ATTENTION.´
© Gstaad Palace Stefano
CHEF’S PORTRAIT – PALACE, GSTAAD
Scata Leonardo Golzato

Faeh’s repertoire reflects the many important stages of his career, which began as an apprentice at the Gstaad Palace between 1978 and 1981 , leading to several years spent in Asia, where he even cooked for the Thai royal family. The Gstaad native passes on his love of Thai cuisine to his guests in the form of a papaya salad with Norway lobster and tom yam foam or sole with red curry, peas and broccoli, to highlight but a few delicacies. His handling of spices and herbs is exquisite, while his nuanced play with fiery chillies is fascinating, tickling the palate without ever overwhelming it! Furthermore, he impeccably masters culinary excursions to Japan: few places in Switzerland serve ramen of this quality. Those who love classic Western cuisine dishes should try the salt-crusted sea bass, the soufflé with Grand Marnier, and what can safely be described as the best club sandwich in the country. ‘Even the simple things deserve the greatest care and attention,’ says Faeh. ‘Instead of smoked turkey breast, we use Alpine chicken breast in our club sandwich. It’s much more aromatic and juicy.’

As international as the range of products and the clientele at the Gstaad Palace may be, Faeh favours seasonal, locally sourced produce as long as his quality standards are met. So he gets most of his porcini mushrooms from former schoolmates who know the best places to pick them in the forests of the Bernese Oberland. Likewise, his veal and beef - apart from Wagyu and Kobe beef – are sourced from the Saane Valley. Faeh enjoys his jaunts to master butcher Martin Hauswirth’s Buure Metzg in Schönried, where he inspects the carefully matured Simmental beef sides destined to be served as massive tomahawk steaks at the Palace Grill.

If the hotel’s own Audi is available for these culinary escapades, all the better. Personally, Faeh drives a BMW, but that doesn’t stop him from taking the wheel of a Ferrari from time to time. ‘Some of my colleagues certainly have more media presence than I do. Nevertheless, Ferrari has invited me to travel to Italy with my sous-chefs for a test drive,’ admits the self-confessed car lover with a twinkle in his eye.

© Jürg Waldmeier
CHEF’S PORTRAIT – PALACE, GSTAAD
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© Gstaad Palace Melanie Uhkötter

Faeh’s fire for the cooking profession was ignited as a seventh grader. Back then, while helping out in the kitchen of the Wasserngrat Mountain Restaurant, he knew immediately: this is it! He has never regretted his decision, even though sparks would often fly during his apprenticeship. A brief stint into experimenting with the running of a delicatessen was quickly abandoned, prompting a swift return to the kitchen. His childhood dream of becoming head chef at the Gstaad Palace was finally realised in 2016, entering an agreement with hotel director Andrea Scherz to shadow the previous chefs for a season before taking charge himself. After taking up his post, however, Faeh had the distinct urge to run away. ‘My predecessors made it anything but easy for me to get started,’ proclaims the man who otherwise never has a bad word to say about anyone, treating the members of his brigade with the utmost respect. As fate would have it, he did stay, and today it is inconceivable to imagine the Palace kitchen without him. Faeh even played a decisive role in the design of the new cooker, which was installed in the winter of 2020/21. ‘A wonderful appliance, a veritable Rolls-Royce,’ he gushes with satisfaction about the apparatus which bears his name alongside that of sous-chef Luca Gatti. Faeh and Gatti have been a well-established team for over 15 years. ‘We understand each other implicitly,’ says the Culinary Director of the Gstaad Palace.

Faeh has been friends with the owners, the Scherz family, for decades. As a child, he amused himself at the hotel’s bowling alley, the former premises of which now house the Restaurant Fromagerie. His father went to school with the sister of the legendary patron, Ernst Andrea Scherz, whose grandfather was the Palace’s official photographer and was always on the scene with his camera at the Palace’s glittering parties. Many photographs he captured back then now adorn the hotel’s walls. However, Franz Faeh keeps his most precious mementoes in his office behind the kitchen in the form of two folders gleaned during his apprenticeship. ‘Some recipes we still cook today are also written down there. For example, the one for the French salad dressing and the one for the foie gras.’ Faeh once typed the latter on a typewriter –and it is top secret. Outside the innermost circle of the Palace kitchen, only the village pharmacist of Gstaad knows the particulars and dosage of the 22 spices used to prepare the liver. And why does one of the two folders bear the name Frans Faeh instead of Franz Faeh? ‘That’s the Norwegian spelling of my first name,’ he explains. ‘My mother comes from Norway.’ It explains why Faeh speaks seven languages: Norwegian, Swedish and Danish, in addition to German, French, Italian, and English.

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© Jürg Waldmeier

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Ziele zu erreichen, bieten wir Ihnen nicht nur passende Vermögensverwaltungsmandate, sondern unterstützen Sie gleichzeitig beim Thema Nachhaltigkeit. Informationen zum perfekten Mix in der Vermögensverwaltung finden Sie unter vpbank.com/vermoegensverwaltung

(Ausland zzgl. Portokosten)

www.marmite.ch/abo

Aktions-Code: SD23

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CHF 16.50 № 6 6 2022 Das Beste zum Schluss Desserts, die glücklich machen, und Guetzli, denen niemand widerstehen kann CHF 16.50 № 1 2023 2023 GRAND HOTEL Grand Hotel Die Ursprünge eines Gefühls – und wo man es in der Schweiz in vollen Zügen geniessen kann

Lake Lauenen

Listening to the song Louenesee by the Swiss rock band Span during my time in Asia brought tears to my eyes. The mountain lake at 1,381 metres above sea level is a piece of home for me and features stunning natural landscapes. Many birds also nest there.

Grand Chalet in Gstaad

Chef Steve Willié does a spectacular job at La Bagatelle. I let him do his thing and look forward to three or four fantastic courses. Classical cooking is at the core of the restaurant’s menu, which includes homemade ravioli or scampi from South Africa, but also grosses pièces like Bresse chicken with black truffles or a côte de boeuf from Simmental.

– grandchalet.ch

CHEF’S FAVOURITES

Old Town of Bern

Just walking around, marvelling at the medieval buildings and observing the hustle and bustle of the people around me - that’s my programme in the historic core of the federal capital. I simply let Bern take effect on me - and can only recommend this kind of sightseeing!

Appenzellerland

Since I have been buying my cars at Garage Sepp Fässler in Appenzell for 30 years and am now good friends with the owners, I always return to this incredibly picturesque region, considered one of the most beautiful in Switzerland with attractions such as the Seealpsee or the Hohen Kasten.

Berner Seeland

I’m always in Gstaad during the season, but my home is in the Seeland region – a real paradise for cyclists. A round trip between Lake Biel, Lake Murten and Lake Neuchâtel is the perfect route for active relaxation. And there’s a perfect spot to reward yourself after, at the Werft restaurant in Faoug on Lake Murten, serving freshly-caught fish from the lake and regionally sourced meats.

restaurant-werft.ch

Buure Metzg in Schönried

Martin Hauswirth has been my trusted butcher for many years. The meat I buy from him is always of excellent quality and perfectly matured. He even cuts me tomahawk steaks from Simmental cattle, an exclusivity here in Switzerland!

– buuremetzg.ch

Alp Hornberg

There is an altitude difference of around 900 metres between the Gstaad Palace and Alp Hornberg. I’m addicted to this route, which offers terrific views over the Saane valley, and I ride it almost daily! It takes about an hour to climb by mountain bike, provided you are in good shape.

101 CHEF’S PORTRAIT – PALACE, GSTAAD
102 TRUE TASTE

SUMMER FLING

Ever wondered which tomato should be cut into pineapple-shaped chunks for maximum enjoyment? The pineapple tomato, of course. Oh, were you not aware that each tomato variety should be cut in a very specific way? An opulent oxheart tomato, for example, reveals its juicy seed locules best when sliced crosswise into thick slices and laid out on a large plate. Salt and the best olive oil are enough for seasoning. Vinegar would be too much. However, sprinkling a few spoonsful of hand-ground basil pesto on top is a congenial option.

Piennolo tomatoes from the foot of Mount Vesuvius, on the other hand, are not sliced at all, but tied into umbels and traditionally air-dried at least until 24 December. Then they are sautéed with vongole veraci and turned into the most aromatic spaghetti in the world.

But back to the pineapple tomato. By far the biggest summer fling. Straight from an organic farm. Each so plump and ripe that they already burst open on the way home. None is fruitier, sweeter, juicier, milder and tastier.

For the perfect treat, place these flavourful beauties in a bowl and pour boiling water over them. This for two reasons: firstly, they taste even more like the sun when tempered. Secondly, the skin can be peeled off easier. The fragile, slippery texture of the peeled pineapple tomato is uniquely heavenly. Important: when cutting into large, pineapple-edged pieces, catch the juice! I eat this tomato salad with a spoon – seriously. Not a drop of this delicious fruit zest should be lost. Salt well, add some pepper and mix the tomato broth with your very best olive oil and the tiniest bit of high-quality red wine vinegar (no balsamic). Garnish with small basil leaves and flakes of fresh Robiola and buon appetito!

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three times lucky

Arosa is notorious for its après-ski culture. But can connoisseurs with higher standards also find bliss and satisfaction? Join us for a curated tour, bar-hopping through this idyllic Alpine village.

For the sake of a good drink, Iʼm prepared to invest a fair deal of time and effort in preliminary research. So it’s all the nicer when this effort pays off, and my expectations are met –not just on the palate. After all, the ears, and the eyes, drink with you. I’ll tell you this much: I’ll find bliss at the quaint Güterschuppen, a place that immediately caught my eye upon arrival at Arosa station. But this story will have to wait as the allure of the slopes proves irresistible on this sunny day.

Fast forward to happy hour. On the walk from the Tschuggen Grand Hotel down to the village, the views of the monumental Schiesshorn peak are nothing short of captivating. Sadly, I am abruptly torn from this reverence: in front of a local watering hole, some of my congeners pour a soulless alcoholic liquid straight into their mouths. A shattering loudspeaker threatens: ‘Hut, Hut, pretty mountains! Hut, Hut, pretty mountains!’ Clearly, things can only get better.

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COCKTAIL EXPERIENCE – AROSA

GÜTERSCHUPPEN

My mind calms immediately upon entering Güterschuppen (German for freight shed). With its rustic charm, this contemporary establishment is relaxed and unpretentious but confident. Pleasantly dimmed lights, happy people chatting at the bar, at tables, on couches, while a cover version of Sade’s Smooth Operator plays decently in the background. And what a mixed bag of good ideas: not only is there plenty on offer gastronomically, but the drinks menu also playfully presents itself. Some classics rub shoulders with drinks bearing names like Gingerpolitan, Annebäbi, and Thyme Out. The bartender informs me that they are working full steam ahead in the creation of a fresh batch of cocktails.

As I settle on a Forrest Jump, a fizz, I wonder if the young staff have seen the eponymous Tom Hanks classic. Aarver Forest Gin meets honey, lemon, and aqua fava, a vegan protein substitute in this drink version. There’s a sprig of thyme and a sprinkle of a red ground powder made of sugar and hibiscus blossoms for visual effect. The result is beguiling and leaves me wanting more.

forrest jump 01

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daily special 02

TWIST LOUNGE & BAR

One stop further on, I sit in a cosy corner of the lounge at Twist. The ambience of the ground floor bar of the Valsana Hotel has a distinctly British feel. An abundance of leather, bookshelves, and dark hues, with a blazing fireplace nearby providing warmth and cosiness. No wonder this spot is affectionately known as Arosa’s living room

The drinks menu is extensive, notwithstanding a large selection of gins from all over the world; the Classics and the Twist Specials also sound appealing. Not far from my seat, I spot a Vinomat – a vending machine that allows patrons to taste their way through a small but well-curated selection of wines using a top-up card. I move to the bar counter, which at Twist also doubles as the morning breakfast buffet. As a DJ gets settled for his set later in the evening, I talk to Michaela, Chef de Bar at Twist.

On her recommendation, I order the Daily Special, a simple Highball with Lillet and elderberry syrup, topped up with rosemary tonic water. Simple but effective – and utterly delicious. My cocktail is finished in no time, and it’s time to move on to the next stop of my spirits safari.

On the way back up the hill toward the Tschuggen Grand Hotel, my mind clears again with the fresh air as the hut, hut faction has fortunately dispersed. Nevertheless, as I step through the entrance with a mild huff and puff, I feel slightly tipsy. It must be thanks to the altitude here at 1,800 metres above sea level! Nevertheless, my focus remains on the non-alcoholic options as I carefully study the drinks menu. I fancy the Meimo’s Holy Power, but it again contains elderberry syrup. A Whisky Virgin Sour will do the trick, then. To be honest, my expectations are low, but at the Tschuggen Bar, this somewhat ho-hum classic is prepared using American malt from Lyre’s, an Australian producer. The result is surprisingly pleasant and wellbalanced. Apart from its menace, the only thing missing from the sweet and sour refreshment is the complexity that comes courtesy of a good bourbon. If I one day find myself hopping onto the Dry January train, I could imagine putting a bottle of Lyre’s on the shelf. In contrast, I will continue to be wary of burning my fingers with bizarre meat substitutes or cheating on a melt-in-your-mouth French cheese with a tinkering concoction of Frankenstein-style nut-based debauchements. Such thoughts run through my head as I glance at the deserted lobby as the first notes of George Harrison’s Come Together start to play – a tune as smooth and groovy as this most saporific evening in Arosa.

whisky virgin sour 03
COCKTAIL EXPERIENCE –
TSCHUGGEN BAR
AROSA

trouvailles from the grisons

Small region, great wines: the 420-hectare area falls mainly within the Bündner Herrschaft and the Rhine Valley. Smaller vineyards in Graubünden can be found in the remote Misox region bordering Ticino. Their main cultivars are Pinot noir, but the region is characteristically exciting, cultivating a variety of wines.

For the best overview of Graubünden wines, the Alter Torkel restaurant in Jenins is the place to be, serving only wines produced in the canton. The leaseholder of the Huus vum Bündner Wii, the ubiquitously well-informed and committed sommelier Olivier Friedrich, is keen to serve older and matured vintages. The selection leaves nothing to be desired, with 1,300 labels from approximately 80 producers. About twenty select wines are served by the glass, optionally paired with complementing dishes.

Most of Graubünden’s so-called wine celebrities can be sampled at the Alter Torkel , including top winemakers Martin Donatsch from Malans, Francisca and Christian Obrecht from Jenins, Irene Grünenfelder from Jenins, and Hansruedi Adank from Fläsch, among others. However, one of the most prominent names of this growing region is missing, namely Daniel and Martha Gantenbein. The duo’s top wines can be found on the menus of many gourmet restaurants.

Here is our selection of five red and white wines which represent Graubünden perfectly and provide a coherent picture of the high level and diversity of this small but mighty fine region.

The Global

FLÄSCHER SAUVIGNON BLANC

WINERY HANSRUEDI ADANK, FLÄSCH –––– 2021

Sauvignon Blanc is produced worldwide from the Loire Valley to New Zealand. The grape variety also thrives in the Bündner Herrschaft, as production from this top vineyard masterfully shows. It is a typical, aromatic white wine, naturally fermented with wild yeasts. It is dry, incredibly fresh, taut, medium-bodied, and well-structured, and culminates in a slightly salty finish. Half the wine is matured on its full lees in wooden barrels and half in concrete eggs.

CHF 34.50 | bauraulacvins.ch

The Local

MALANSER COMPLETER

BONER WINERY, MALANS –––– 2015

This Completer, an outstanding local speciality, yields long-lived growths, characterised by a concise acidity, power, and full bodies. A touch of residual sweetness is often noticeable, which is well integrated into the wine. The Boner growth is unbeatable. The next vintage of this rarity (2017) will only be on the market in a year or two. Reserve in good time! Price on request | gianiboner.ch

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5

The Biodynamic

PINOT NOIR MONOLITH WINERY OBRECHT, FLÄSCH –––– 2019

Since Francisca and Christian Obrecht started employing biodynamic methods, the wines have gained vitality and thrill. This is especially true of the estate’s powerful and elegant flagship. Monolith is a Pinot noir that perfectly combines the striking fusion of nature with creative craftsmanship. Just another winning feature of this wine that is full of character.

CHF 61 | obrecht.ch

The Remote One

MERLOT LA FIDUCIA BARRIQUE ROHNER ERNI WINERY, MONTICELLO (MISOX) –––– 2019

In the remote Misox valley in Graubünden, young winemaker Madlaina Erni is attracting attention with wines bursting with character. The proximity to Ticino is evident in the varieties of grapes. Merlot plays the leading role in this noble drop, which shines with beautiful fullness and elegance, a multilayered aroma, and a medium-heavy body and depth.

CHF 39 | rohnererni.ch

The Classic

PINOT NOIR SELVENEN

FROMM WINERY, MALANS –––– 2020

There is no getting around Pinot noir in Graubünden. The climatic conditions are ideal for this diva variety of grapes. The grapes for the Pinot noir Selvenen are grown in medium-heavy, chalky slate soil. The wine develops exceptionally well over the years and impresses with its density, finesse and depth.

CHF 42 | weingut-fromm.ch

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PALATABLE PLEASURES

With prime views of the Rhine, Peter Knogl serves outstanding produce and subtly balanced flavours at the Cheval Blanc, one of the best kitchens in Switzerland. Add the atmospheric brasserie and engaging bar culture, and Basel’s Les Trois Rois confidently steps forward as a gourmet destination.

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WORDS PATRICIA BRÖHM

I’ve been on the job for over 30 years now and haven’t missed a day of work,’ says Peter Knogl with a modest dose of pride. Unlike many of his contemporaries, he is a hands-on chef and actively cooks in every service. Two windows allow guests to peek into Knogl’s kitchen, awarded three Michelin stars and 19 Gault&Millau points, as he cracks lobsters, fillets red mullets and prepares his legendary sauces. The native Bavarian is known in the business as the king of all sauces , and anyone lucky enough to have tried his Madeira sauce with sole understands why. It’s a true work of gastronomic art made of poultry stock, Madeira, butter and cream, dashed with plenty of truffle jus. ‘Nothing comes from nothing,’ says the 54year-old with a playful wink. ‘And, more importantly,’ he adds, ‘the sauce must never cook for too long, otherwise it will lose its elegance.’

D E L U XE G O URM E T T O UR

Guests at the Cheval Blanc experience Knogl’s art of sauce-making in a setting that turns a restaurant visit into a fully immersive experience. Everything is just right here. From the utterly elegant room that takes you away from everyday life immediately upon entering it, to the thoughtful service under the auspices of Maître Giuseppe Giliberti, who strikes a winning balance of always being good-humoured and extremely cordial. The phenomenal wine list with around 1'000 labels is looked after by Christoph Kokemoor, who seems to have every single aroma profile at the tip of his tongue. And finally, the charming vistas of the Rhine! Excellent produce and ingredients, the very best craftsmanship and a subtly modern take on French-based cuisine, plus the odd Asian influence are the cornerstones of a culinary offering that has secured Knogl a steady string of devotees in Basel. Around 50% of guests come from the city and the surrounding area and like to visit regularly.

They look forward to Knogl’s menu, which sets the tone with finely nuanced amuse-bouches –from marinated rock crab with

vadouvan to jalapeño froth on red prawns. The menu starts with a soft terrine of duck foie gras with cassis jelly and fig confit. Knogl’s Beurre Blanc with bergamot for his lobster underlines how precisely the chef sets his culinary accents: the subtly balanced sauce, cooked based on a stock prepared from only the best fish, owes its finespun citrus notes to the grating of bergamot. Of course, the lobster, of excellent Breton quality, was pulled to a perfect bite at 70 degrees, somewhere between raw and cooked, to that elusive point where it is closest to its ideal structure. Other highlights include hand-fished sole with Périgord truffle and roast beef of Kagoshima wagyu with okra and aubergine.

Last but not least, the Cheval Blanc remains one of the increasingly rare restaurants that still prominently feature a large selection of cheeses on its menu. There are almost 30 specialities, from goat’s and sheep’s milk cheeses to Brillat-Savarin and Camembert to Emmental aged for 25 months and a classic Roquefort.

112 GOURMET TOUR DELUXE

For Philippe Clarinval, the culinary-savvy general manager of Les Trois Rois, the cheese trolley is a piece of table culture in action. ‘The Cheval Blanc is an institution. But it should not be singled out at our hotel; all the other outlets must be just as good in their own way.’ This also applies to the bar, offering one of the most comprehensive drinks menus in the country in addition to the so-called Cocktail Experience , a sequence of five concoctions developed by chef de bar Thomas Huhn together with the kitchen to accompany dishes. For example, an apple-ginger drink with organic ginger and citrus notes that is paired with a pumpkin soup. ‘Such details make up the overall experience at Les Trois Rois, which is greater than the sum of its parts,’ says Clarinval as he progressively establishes the historic property on the banks of the Rhine as a gourmet destination.

The Brasserie, with its petrolcoloured walls featuring original art pieces, historic tiled floor, crisp white linen tablecloths and the winter garden facing the Rhine, is a popular spot with locals. Despite being housed in such a distinguished landmark building, Clarinval

asserts: ‘We remain true to the identity of a brasserie. Here, it’s not about haute cuisine, but about good products and traditional craftsmanship.’ With 32 -year-old Thomas Schaefer here, too, the right man is at the helm. Originally from nearby Alsace, you’ll find him cycling to work along the Rhine on balmy sunny days. He carefully spruces up classics of Baden-Alsatian cuisine, for example, when serving a cabbage variation with savoy cabbage, Brussels sprouts and red cabbage with pike-perch in champagne sauce accentuating the dish with sauerkraut coulis. And, of course, homemade foie gras de canard with pineapple chutney and Balik salmon with beetroot coulis could not be amiss. The secret of the intense flavours? Schaefer has caramelised them. Details like these make all the difference ensuring that guests feel at ease, often ordering a second coffee or a digestif at lunchtime during workdays. For Clarinval, this is what it’s all about: ‘We want to give our guests a feeling of bliss.’

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feast of flavours

Hailed as one of the most significant gourmet festivals by food connoisseurs and enthusiasts alike, S.Pellegrino Sapori Ticino reflects the culinary wealth of one of Switzerland’s most loved regions. Charmingly close to the Mediterranean style yet deeply anchored in Swiss traditions, the region serves as the base for an annual feast of flavours combining the best of gastronomy with high-end hospitality.

Assiduously devoted to haute cuisine, each year S.Pellegrino Sapori Ticino welcomes a line-up of celebrated chefs from the international scene to join their Ticino counterparts to create outstanding dishes showcased across Switzerland in splendid locations suited to this most enticing gastronomic spectacle. ‘This year S.Pellegrino Sapori Ticino is blowing out 17 candles,’ says Sapori’s charismatic founder Dany Stauffacher. ‘These have been years studded with successes and wonderful evenings under the banner of great taste, with notable names of international cuisine united with local excellence for a unique gourmand experience fuelled by passion and quality. A winning combination that to date has brought together over 400 Michelin stars and 4000 Gault Millau points combined.’ From the beginning, S.Pellegrino Sapori Ticino aimed to promote the Ticino region as a tourist destination, using

the universal language of food and wine. ‘The intention was to support the world of hospitality and tourism, including restaurants and hotels. When I started, it was an idea born by chance among friends; I never imagined that I would realise a festival that in 2021 was voted the best food and wine event of the year by Food&Travel magazine.’

This cultural exchange between Ticino chefs and various international cuisines has been more than fruitful. During a series of events showcasing the chefs’ passionate work, the teams create innovative dishes for audiences across Switzerland. Of 21 events held in 2022, we highlight three held in Zurich, Montreux and Lucerne with chefs from Ticino as shining examples of this most prominent of gourmet festivals.

– sanpellegrinosaporiticino.ch

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WORDS BEATRICE LESSI PHOTOS GIORGIA PANZERA

LA RÉSERVE EDEN AU LAC Zurich

In Zurich, the event took place at La Réserve Eden au Lac, the imaginary yacht club entirely designed by Philippe Starck. Chef Marco Ortolani and his Italian team had been awarded a Michelin star just one week before the event, so that one could feel the electricity in the open kitchen.

– lareserve-zurich.com

FAIRMONT LE MONTREUX PALACE Montreux

Held on the Montreux Riviera on the shores of Lake Geneva at the elegant Fairmont Le Montreux Palace, resident chef Frédéric Gardette prepared an outstanding dinner with chefs from Ticino in the historic ballroom of the iconic Belle Époque building. A majestic experience!

fairmont.com/montreux

MANDARIN ORIENTAL LUZERN Lucerne

The grand finale of my three tastings was held at the recently renovated Mandarin Oriental in Lucerne, where chef Gilad Peled and executive pastry chef Clement Laurent prepared classic courses dotted with some unexpected touches, like olive oil in the dessert — the perfect ending to my gastronomic exploration in a hotel that perfectly merges tradition and modernity. In its 17 years of history,

S.Pellegrino Sapori Ticino continues to showcase Ticino and its italianità to its full potential: a region of natural beauty, historical sites and unique landscapes, a land of excellent food and wine.

– mohg.com

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eden on earth

A magnet for artists, poets, writers and esoterics since the early 20th century, Lake Maggiore continues to attract the creative set and modernday tourists to its shores in Locarno, Ascona or to Monte Verità to while away summer in this most charming corner of Ticino.

Ascona’s Castello del Sole is a rural retreat of a more sophisticated variety. Set across 150 hectares of land, the Terreni alla Maggia houses the luxury hotel favoured by modern-day travellers with a more refined taste. The neighbouring nature reserve, the Foce della Maggia , is a rarity among Switzerland’s very few intact river deltas. During my first afternoon stroll, the vast and tranquil grounds evoke mixed memories of South African wineries and Mexican haciendas. A section of the nature reserve remains inaccessible, as it is home to sixty of the two hundred bird species that nest in the Foce della Maggia. Among these are the little bittern, the little ringed plover, the great reed warbler, the iridescent kingfisher, the barn swallow, and a colony of house martins.

Located next to the marshy bird sanctuary, an alluring sandy bay lays exclusive to guests of the ‘Castello’. The route to this secluded lakefront nook takes me past rows of apple trees and a wheat field. A large day bed adorned with colourful cushions sits lonely on the lawn, the afternoon breeze gently playing with its gossamer white curtains. As my robe stays behind on one of the sun loungers, I walk on the fine sand into the crystal clear waters of the lake. It’s just me and a pair of mallard ducks as I swim out across the mirror-smooth surface. Is this what paradise looks like? Indeed, at the geographically lowest point in Switzerland, with a view of the 4,600 -metre-high Dufourspitze, I find myself in a paradoxical position of feeling very close to heaven.

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As the evening draws in, this feeling intensifies as I dine in the charming courtyard. I am served by Mattias Roock, chef of Locanda Barbarossa, the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant. His unique garden menu sapori del nostro orto is a culinary delight of seven courses produced solely and wholly from yields grown on the property, right down to the asparagus risotto made from his own Loto rice. Earlier that day, I had enjoyed a personal tour of the chef’s very own Eden. I was shown around the extensive vegetable garden featuring 28 tomato varieties promising to harvest red, yellow, black and striped tomatoes. I marvelled at the thriving oxheart and zebra tomatoes, the beautiful Siberian cherry trees in full blossom and the yuzu lemons. Yuzu lemons grow well here thanks to the southerly winds, as do the kaffir limes that are required to conjure up the must-have, signature Southeast Asian flavours of the chef’s cuisine. And then there’s the Szechuan pepper, which accompanies tonight’s first course, the delicious lake fish, with wild garlic and radish.

The benefits of the climatic conditions on Lake Maggiore spread far wider than the gardens at Castello del Sole. The Brissago Islands in the middle of the lake are also blessed with impressive vegetation. In 1885, Baroness Antoinette de Saint Léger relocated her residence here from the mainland and created the most exquisite and richest botanical garden in Ticino. The following day, a boat takes me to visit the larger of the two islands, the Isola di Sant’Apollinare. A mere twentyminute ride across the blue-green lake from the quaint town of Ascona rewards me with an unexpected botanical world tour: Protea, Gazania, Watsonia, Agapanthus, and Lion’s Tail from South Africa; Central American Magnolias; Australian eucalyptus trees bursting high into the sky along with its native broom heather, and acacias. Then there are shrub veronica, club lily, string trees from New Zealand, Far Eastern hemp palms, camellias, Japanese bananas, bamboo, and ginkgo. Too many to recount here, as the garden is home to no less than 1,600 plant species! I bathe in the shade of abundant greenery, marvel at orchids, soak up the sweet scent of the blossoms, observe marsh turtles, and carefully experience the feel of the hairy leaves and ancient trunks.

The morning truly flies by. I decide to return to the hotel for a light lunch on the shady terrace of the Al Parco restaurant. Suitably fed, I enjoy a treatment at the spa, or more precisely, the house’s signature treatment: the VinoAqua therapy. This peeling uses grape seeds, skins, and vine leaves from the hotel’s vineyard, the only one on the Terreni alla Maggia . My skin is rendered as soft as velvet as I relax on my private terrace with a glass of Bondola Rosé. The late afternoon sun conjures up cherry-red reflections from the glass of wine, which exudes pink grapefruit and cassis notes. As dusk sets in, I am rewarded by that deep sense of happiness that surfaces after satisfying a long-held yearning.

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excellence pursuit of

We join forces with our partners setting new standards in the Swiss world of luxury hospitality, raising the bar when it comes to innovation, sustainability, digitalisation and the very thing we do best –deluxe indulgence.

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RAPHAËL BRUNSCHWIG

Entering a new era, Swiss Top Events’ dedication to sustainability promises a bright future for the organisation, elevating it to new heights, fostering collaboration, promoting diversity, and ensuring that each event leaves a positive, lasting impact on society.

On a quiet, unremarkable afternoon in Locarno, Raphaël Brunschwig greets me with a warm smile and a firm handshake. As Managing Director of the renowned Locarno Film Festival, Brunschwig’s reputation precedes him. As President of Swiss Top Events, he succeeds his colleague Richard Dillier. Born and raised in Switzerland, Brunschwig is driven by the desire to unfold the potential of his endeavours. A permanent fixture of Switzerland’s cultural scene, his career in Locarno started a decade ago, where he steadily climbed the ranks, honing his project management, marketing, and event organisation skills to the position of Managing Director he now holds. Three’s a charm, so the upcoming appointment as President of Swiss Top Events comes in addition to his current role at the Festival and the presidency of Eventi letterari Monte Verità.

Now in its 75th year, the Locarno Film Festival has become synonymous with discovering new talents and celebrating unique, daring films. Under Brunschwig’s stewardship, alongside long-time President Marco Solari and the Festival’s artistic director Giona A. Nazzaro, the Festival has flourished, embracing innovation and establishing new partnerships to expand its reach to a global audience. ‘We aim to keep pushing the boundaries, to challenge the status quo, and to create a platform where films from every corner of the world can be discovered and celebrated,’ he tells me.

In his new role as President of Swiss Top Events, Brunschwig is poised to bring the same innovative approach and tenacity to the organisation responsible for Switzerland’s most prestigious cultural and sporting events. Swiss Top Events comprises eight events,

including the Locarno Film Festival, the Montreux Jazz Festival, Weltklasse Zürich and Art Basel. With such an impressive portfolio, Brunschwig is well aware of the expectations of his new role. Yet, he remains unfazed. ‘Swiss Top Events is an undisputed quality seal,’ he says. ‘My vision is to strengthen the existing activities established by my colleagues while exploring opportunities for growth, diversification and, most importantly, sustainability.’ (see page 125)

His plans include leveraging best practices and knowledge sharing amongst the member events to become best-in-class role models for top-end events and their concerns around sustainability. ‘At Swiss Top Events, all Swiss regions are represented. What we do should have a relevant or conscious impact across socio-cultural, economic and environmental areas related to our events,’ he adds.

As we discuss the future of Swiss Top Events and the association’s tangible efforts in sustainability, Brunschwig’s passion is palpable. He envisions a world where cultural exchange is embraced, barriers are broken down, and sustainability is at the forefront of every event. ‘The world is becoming more interconnected every day. It’s our responsibility as cultural and sporting event organisers to reflect this, to bring people together and promote understanding through our shared passions while ensuring a sustainable future for generations to come,’ he says. ‘As a collective, we look at what can be implemented across all Swiss Top Events to become interlocutors in the national and international arenas to reinforce Switzerland’s image abroad through excellence and measurable results.’

WORDS S. HOTTINGER-BEHMER

Magic Moments at Unique PlaceS

PARTNERS OF SWISS TOP EVENTS:

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swiss top events

Magic moments at unique places

© Weltklasse Zurich

all events

15 – 18 June 2023

ART BASEL

12 – 14 January 2024

30 June – 15 July 2023

MONTREUX JAZZ FESTIVAL

The New York Times dubbed it the Art Olympics, Vogue called it ‘the most beautiful temporary museum in the world’, and Le Monde simply hailed it as ‘the best in the world’. Art Basel, the premier international art show, attracts and inspires art lovers from across the globe year after year. artbasel.com

FIS SKI WORLD CUP LAUBERHORN WENGEN

The Festival is famous for its exceptional heritage and legendary concerts. With its intimate ambience and renowned hospitality, it offers a unique experience for artists and public alike. montreuxjazzfestival.com

In January 2024, the 94th International Lauberhorn Races will be held in Wengen in the beautiful Bernese Oberland. The world’s best Alpine skiers will compete in the Super-G on Friday, on the legendary Lauberhorn downhill slope on Saturday, and in the Slalom on Sunday.

lauberhorn.ch

31 August – 03 September 2023

OMEGA EUROPEAN MASTERS CRANS-MONTANA

CALENDER AND DATES

You can find further information and details at swisstopevents.ch

The Omega European Masters, which takes place in Crans-Montana (VS), has been offering its 50,000 spectators magical moments in a breathtaking Alpine environment ever since 1939. Professional golfers from all over the world come to compete in the most stunning setting of the DP World Tour schedule. omegaeuropeanmasters.com

SWISS TOP EVENTS
© Montreux Jazz Festival 2019 © Emilien Itim © Verein Int. Lauberhornrennen

8 August – 10 September 2023

17 – 19 November 2023

22 – 24 March 2024

LUCERNE FESTIVAL

Lucerne Festival ranks among the leading international presenters of classical music, offering various festivals throughout the year. The main festival, which takes place in summer, showcases the world’s most-renowned symphony orchestras, conductors, and soloists, as well as the young artist generation and contemporary music. The other festivals include Lucerne Festival Forward in November, which is focused on contemporary music, the Spring Festival, and the Piano Fest curated by pianist Igor Levit. Together with the Summer Festival, they attract classical music fans from all over the world. lucernefestival.ch

30 – 31 August 2023

WELTKLASSE ZÜRICH

Hosting the best athletes from Switzerland, Europe, and the World, Weltklasse Zürich once again combines breathtaking performances of track and field heroes with the magical atmosphere at Letzigrund Stadium. In addition, one discipline will be chosen to represent the sport event at Zurich main station. weltklassezuerich.ch

2 – 12 August 2023

LOCARNO FILM FESTIVAL

Every summer since 1946, the Locarno Film Festival has brought the world’s most innovative cinema to the shores of Lake Maggiore. Thanks to its free spirit, the Festival has become an incubator of ideas and new projects, with educational and cultural activities organised throughout the year. locarnofestival.ch

4, 11, 18 February 2024

WHITE TURF ST. MORITZ

The fascination for the world’s only horse race on a frozen lake has remained for generations. Featuring traditional skijoring, flat, trot and pony races, White Turf St. Moritz attracts VIPs from around the globe, locals and betting enthusiasts alike. whiteturf.ch

SWISS TOP EVENTS
© Weltklasse
Zurich

drivers’ of change: stronger, better, faster

When Christoph Joho, co-director of Weltklasse Zürich, arrives at his office every morning after a vitalising jog, it is not only his devoted enthusiasm for athletics that drives him. For some years, the 57-yearold has been buoyed by the often ambiguous and somewhat puzzling concept of sustainability. Many use the word without thinking twice, simply because it is fashionable. Not Joho. The father of three takes the term very seriously. He knows it’s about the future of humanity on our planet. And it follows, therefore, that it is also about his children’s future.

As co-organiser of one of the world’s most important athletics meetings, he feels an obligation that some are often comfortable neglecting. They claim their actions have little impact when considering large-scale catastrophes such as global warming or biodiversity loss. Joho has a less casual reaction. He passionately believes that ‘nothing will happen unless everyone does their bit’ .

In Joho’s office, housed in an inconspicuous building on the edge of Zurich’s Letzigrund stadium, he is known as a serious doer. With the same blend of objectivity pervasive in his work, he approaches topics in and around ‘sustainabili-

ty’ in a proactive manner. Under his guidance, he has led all eight Swiss Top Events to collectively reflect on how to master a viable future in our rapidly changing world. His biggest fear is that ‘if we try to promote sustainability in a well-founded way, it is often not perceived at this level’ but rather seen as a ‘marketing hype’. According to Joho, concrete actions should ‘have an effect in the partners’ minds and on their behaviour’ and be perceived accordingly ‘as a tremendous opportunity for our business model.’

Some 140 kilometres away, Yves Mittaz ( 62 ), Joho’s colleague at a fellow Swiss Top Event, has a strikingly similar point of view. The managing director of the Omega European Masters golf tournament in Crans Montana, has introduced a strict policy to deal with plastic bottles in line with his understanding of sustainability. The production of a single 0.75-litre PET bottle uses 0.3 litres of fossil fuel and a staggering 2.5 litres of water. With this in mind, Mittaz concluded, ‘if we continue on this path, it will lead nowhere good.’

As a result, he has installed drinking fountains as an alternative, a six-figure investment that underlines his commitment. In doing so, he has successfully done

away with an astonishing 25,000 PET bottles that were previously consumed year after year. And he is setting an example: sustainability can efficiently be implemented in the environment of a best-in-class tournament sponsored by the likes of Omega or Porsche, so often associated with A-lister lifestyles. Because of their social standing as decision-makers, the wealthy have a disproportionate influence on the fate of our planet. ‘Fact is,’ says Mittaz, ‘that sustainability is a métier, not a hobby or a marketing goal.’ He, therefore, aims to invest ‘where actions have a greater impact’.

In doing so, the tournament also encounters obstacles, among them higher costs. ‘Of course, we check and know the origin of our suppliers’ products,’ Mittaz explains, ‘but we are also willing to take on additional costs for sustainable goods and services.’ Furthermore, the tournament recommends that sponsors pay particular attention to their giveaways origin. Sponsors are stepping up to the plate in a positive way even though a sustainably produced Swiss golf cap, for example, can easily cost three times more than a similar product imported from the Far East.

129

Omega Masters Managing Director Yves Mittaz expects that ’one day there will be national regulations for golf course maintenance’. The tournament is striving for the GEO international quality seal of the non-profit Golf Environment Organisation. This certificate includes guidelines for environmentally safe and biodiversity-friendly maintenance of the playing area. This means that Swiss Top Event is well prepared for future regulations.

They share an understanding that visitors to an event pay more attention to and appreciate all the more the issues of social and environmental sustainability. It is often the case that the heightened appreciation of the customers outweighs any additional costs. ‘This is a longterm process,’ Mittaz knows, ‘and we aim to improve constantly.’

This gradual development is what Weltklasse Zürich has in mind when striving towards its commitment to the inclusion of youth and the disadvantaged as part of its sustainability strategy, expanding it every year. ‘Social sustainability is often overseen,’ observes Joho, ‘but it is just as important as environmental sustainability.’

From their top sports event, Joho and his team developed the UBS Kids Cup youth programme in partnership with Swiss Athletics into the largest exercise platform in Switzerland. Also integrated into the programme’s ethos and the activities are tips and guidelines on

healthy living that could benefit the whole family, on and off the sports field. In 2022, over 170,000 children and young people aged between 7 and 15 participated in over 1,100 events across Switzerland.

Rather than being just a sideshow for management, this commitment to sustainability has become a crucial element of Swiss Top Events’ business model. In this way, Weltklasse Zürich encourages long-term commitment, which ensures a unique atmosphere at the annual athletics summit, where the stands are filled by an enthusiastic audience. But Joho is also concerned about the risks of his ambitious sustainability programme: ‘The biggest danger is that I overtax my staff and partners, that I want too much too fast,’ he says. But doesn’t that align him with his athletes? After all, their goal is to go as far and as fast as possible. And every now and then, they even manage to set a world record.

132
Yves Mittaz and Christoph Joho point out a central concern of any sustainability strategy: partners and suppliers must follow suit. And they are more and more, and increasingly of their own accord.
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As I lie on the uber-comfy bed of my chambre classique at the Hotel Brach in Paris, admiring the art-filled walls with the chic Starck-esque ambiance, I realise how quickly I had checked in. Like, five minutes from getting out of my taxi to sinking onto these soft sheets. Had I been to the reception? Yep, even led to my room. The experience was so seamless and comforting thanks to the team’s warm humanity, that I seemed to have immersed myself in it. Somehow it felt so normal. I don’t mean in an overly trivial, condescending manner, but in the extraordinary sense of exactly how it should be. And it made me feel welcome in the most special way.

You might raise your eyebrows and ask, how on earth could it have made you feel special? They didn’t roll out a red carpet, offer you a glass of champers or wave palm leaves at you. No sir, they quietly delivered by doing their job with lots of flair. The team understood the value of my time as well as the true meaning of luxury: it is not a thing but a feeling, a notion, a never-ending journey to stimulate our senses on the most sophisticated levels. It is about experiences that money cannot buy; although I am tired of that phrase,

WITHOUT EMPATHY, WITHOUT ME

it reflects the sentiment of noble experiences with the human at its centre.

Easier said than done. When it comes to luxury hospitality, staff in top establishments tend to be overly attentive, on the presumption that this attitude reflects top-notch service, which is what the guests pay for. But here is a friendly reminder: luxury doesn’t scream, it is rather soft spoken, always personal and very good at listening. It is all about quiet confidence.

I myself despise waiters who disturb me ten times during dinner with my darling, just to ask repeatedly, if the food is delish, while I am still chewing. You don’t disturb cats while they are eating, do you? And please don’t fill up our glasses after each micro sip, it feels like you are spying on us. I know, their intentions are super-kind; it is their job to pamper us and I am so appreciative of decent service. In my humble opinion, finding the perfect balance between care and giving us our space, is a dying art form. The best hotels and restaurants I have ever visited have figured that one out.

You know, my parents owned a restaurant, and most of my spare time during primary and high school was spent working there. On Mondays we were closed and always went to lunch at a competitor’s establishment. Think workingclass, rather rustic outlets in rural Switzerland. My father was never shy to give feedback on food or service and point out their screwups. He was convinced they need feedback to improve. Once we had a particularly bad lunch, but he kept quiet and paid our bill. Then

he said to me, ‘Son, never forget: if the waitress is unfriendly, it means the restaurant owner is an idiot.’ That time, my dad knew his input was pointless and wouldn’t help, because the owner didn’t have a quality attitude.

I think of this sentiment every time I walk into a nice restaurant or hotel and meet a gifted team who understand it is a people business, as there is a management team behind them who grasp that true quality cannot be expressed by words or conveyed by a nice interior, but only by actions of empathy. It is the very essence of deluxe hospitality, and makes you feel like a human being, not a mere guest who consumes pricy products and services.

Especially now, post-Covid and pre-Artificial Intelligence, as luxury hotel rates are continually rising, we must be aware that clients’ expectations rise too. So let’s keep the product offering up to date and relevant, and invest in the human factor to differentiate ourselves. Luxury is no longer a shiny gold foil on the welcome card. It is all about human empathy during the user journey, both online and offline, and to realise that CARE is the best marketing strategy ever.

I came for the hotel, but I stayed for the people. More importantly, it is they who will make me come back. Well, maybe this super-snug bed also helped. Taking a power nap now, before exploring the rooftop hotel garden with its henhouse, providing fresh eggs for breakfast, laid with a view of la Tour Eiffel. But that luxury story is for another time. Until then: bon voyage!

145
BON VOYAGE

COVER PHOTO

The Bündner Herrschaft – by Dolores Rupa for Heidiland Tourismus – is a wine growing region which extends from Fläsch, Maienfeld, Jenins and Malans along the Rhine. 420 hectares are planted with vines and produce around 20,000 hectoliters per seasons.

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Fascinating and informative stories, interviews, and themed features on gastronomy, lifestyle, luxury, trends, and business topics, as well as interesting long reads. H Magazine conveys Swiss flair, savoir-vivre, and the well-established world of Swiss Deluxe Hotels and their sophisticated guests. Our features are written by a colourful mixture of engaging contributors. They offer guest experiences and glances behind the scenes. H Magazine is aimed at readers who love exquisite service and are interested in learning more about the passion and work of inspiring people who contribute to the success of Swiss Deluxe Hotels. The magazine aims to surprise and fascinate readers in an elegant fashion.

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