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OUTER REEF / PH: DAVID BAKER
Photo: Conan Whitehouse
Photo: Bryan Pezman
BABBY QUINONES / PH: MANUEL VELEZ
[ CONTENTS1.0 ]
20 QUESTIONS WITH MIKE STEWART
BEHIND THE LENS
SURGE SHAPER / YAMO
MAUI IS OUR HOME
SURGE MUSIC / SAPIENT
THE NY / NJ CONNECTION
AMAURY LAVERNHE IS NUMERO UN
ON A MISSION / JACOB VANDERVELDE 152-157
[ ON THE COVER: MIKE STEWART, THE MAN THAT MADE THE SPORT PHOTO BY: JOSEPH LIBBY ]
THE DK LIFE
STYLE & POWER
YO SOY EL NINO
SURGE REVIEW / RING OF FIRE II
HOW TO BODYBOARD KOOK STYLE
SURGE EVENTS / CONTEST
SURGE BUZZ / INDUSTRY NEWS
Photo: Alex Verharst
Photo: bryan Pezman
Photo: bryan Pezman
Photo: bryan Pezman
Photo: Evan Fa
Photo: bryan Pezman
HUBB / PH: BRYAN PEZMAN / PEZPIX.COM
â€œI am very happy my fins are finally available in stores, as the development has been a long collaborative process with
Churchill. As a grom I have tried every type of fin on the market and always had a desire to design a fin that would not only accommodate my needs when I bodyboard, but would also be functional on the days I wanted to free-dive or bodysurf. I started working on designing the fin in August of 2008 when I signed with Churchill. The Churchill Makapuu fins are superb and are the best fins on the market. I knew the Makapuu was a great fin mold to use as a template for my new concept and provided me the platform to add a few features that would make the product even better. First, I made the fin a bit stiffer all the way through the foot pocket to allow the kick to be more even and powerful. I added a neoprene footpad in the pocket to create a snugger more comfortable fit; thereby reducing fin ulcers. I also added a detachable neoprene heel cuff with built-in laces. The heel cuffs add extra comfort and reduce blisters; and the laces help to prevent the fins from coming loose and being lost in big waves. As for the color ... I wanted to use an all black fin to distinguish the Hubb Makapuu from the iconic Churchill blue and gold. I will eventually mix up the color in the future. For now I thought an all black churchill fin was pretty sleek. With these added benefits, the fins are going to retail for slightly more. Yet, as a prepackaged deal with the fin tethers and preplaced pads all ready built in the fin, the consumer will save money when compared to buying the fins, pads and tethers separately and trying to assemble on their own. The Hubb Makapuu fins can be found in surf shops across the USA and Hawaii, and can be purchased through US online surf shops.â€? -Jeff Hubbard
[ The Icon ] One day in the late Eighties, I ran into Mike Stewart, World Champ and King of Pipe, riding a small, craptastic closeout just around the corner from one of Laguna Beach, California’s wedges (now defunct). There was the best bodyboarder in the world practicing rolls alone in probably what was some of the worst surf on the planet.
In his competitive heyday, Mike Stewart was often compared to basketball god Michael Jordan. It’s an easy comparison; they dominated their respective sports competitively in roughly the same era. But it sells Stewart short. To this day, Stewart was and is more influential to bodyboarding than Jordan to basketball. No, a better analog to Stewart would need the combination of Jordan, NFL ironman QB Brett Favre, and snowboard innovator Shaun White. Like Jordan, Mike has dominated the competitive arena, winning a record eleven titles at Pipeline, our sport’s biggest stage (the first back in 1983 as a little-known haole with a bad haircut from the Big Island). He dominated the PSAA tour, the U.S. domestic circuit, in the late Eighties. Add to that nine World Titles, and you have a run unmatched by Jordan.
Like Favre, part of Mike’s legacy is his longevity. He has competed at a high level for 27 years now, bookended by that first big win at Pipe and his latest at the I.B.A. World Tour’s Arica Chilean Challenge just last year at age 46. Like Shaun White with snowboarding, Mike has innovated some of our sport’s biggest moves. He invented the barrel roll and the reverse, and refined a host of maneuvers in a manner that made his way of doing them the gold standard for “good style” the world over. (If today a grom gets a verbal beat-down for dragging his hand or not crossing his legs during a spin, you can bet Mike’s riding had something to do with it). What Mike was doing that day in Laguna Beach is that same thing White does on his private half-pipe in Colorado. Outside the competitive arena, Mike pioneered Teahupoo, got barreled at 50-foot Jaws, and landed the first six-digit sponsorship income for a bodyboarder. When bodyboarding was suffering separation anxiety with surfing, Mike, consciously or not, carried the banner. But the most stunning feat Mike has accomplished for the past thirty years and counting is that he has remained relevant. And his words, no less so today. Eric Fairbanks STEWART DROPPING IN AT HOME / PH: NEAL MIYAKE / HISURFADVISORY.COM
STEWART TAKING FLIGHT / PH: BRYAN PEZMAN / PEZPIX.COM
SURGE: How does it feel that all the Aussies have copied your style and now claim it as theirs? MS: Well at least long term, function prevails over fashion. I was influenced by a number of things, wave riders and Bodyboarders around me. My objective was simple; trying to get my riding as smooth, technical and radical as possible. I gravitated towards things that helped me in this direction. This was functional as it allowed me greater access to new moves and new methods. I would say that riders sought after this progression rather than they sought after me personally. I think to a certain degree what you are seeing now is bordering on fashion, as riders are becoming reluctant to push past a certain look in the development of Bodyboarding. There is an opportunity to create that new look though better equipment and technique just as there always has been. SURGE: If Michael Jordan were a bodyboarder, would he be you? MS: Fortunately everyone is different in this world. And unless you believe in parallel universes there will never be another one of you or me. SURGE: You’re in your fourties and still competing with guys half your age. Is it that you’re getting better each year or that they’re getting worse? MS: Actually, I had to work pretty hard to get my self physically and mentally capable to be competitive today. I would say though that I have quite a solid base skill set that makes up for what I might lack in other areas of my riding. I think that many of the top guys on tour don’t have a deep base skill set, but more than make up for it in other progressive techniques. The reality these days is you have to focus a lot of time and concentrated energy to maintain any position at or around the top. SURGE: If you could take back exposing any spot(s) in the world, which one(s) would they be? MS: That would have to be Teahupoo for sure. While I wouldn’t say I exposed it I did turn riders on to it who then exposed it so in a sense I would be responsible. I am not sure if things would have been different or not, if it was just a matter or time before someone started this chain reaction of exposure or not. No one will know for sure. I guess if there was anything positive from this, I would have to say that surfing has been pushed forward. On the other hand I completely regret the zoo it becomes during events or the ski circus that happens on any swell over 10 feet. SURGE: So you and Tamega used to go at it competing on tour. Do you think people tend to discredit him and his six world titles because he was in your shadow? MS: First off I have a great deal of respect for Tamega. He does amazing things in the water. I think for sure some people have a tendency to tally up world titles, rather than make conclusion based on their own observations/information. Competition spurs many things, and for competitive riders I think this helps push progression. It’s why the best guys on tour are doing what they are doing, pushing it harder and harder and going bigger every surf. Watch any high level final and you will see what I mean. Rivalries have been very healthy for many things. SURGE: Do you think the Hawaiians are positioning themselves to compete with the world’s best on the tour? MS: As an industry I believe companies have been too focused on trying to get market share rather than create it. This year with financial support from my Science/Gyroll/Viper Hawaii distributor (firstname.lastname@example.org) and organization from Bitz, we started a state wide tour for youth and amateurs. The hope is
that this will inspire young riders and their friends that might otherwise not be that into bodyboarding, to get into it. Riders so far at these events have been totally stoked and well just plain grateful. http://www.youtube.com/sciencebodyboards#p/ u/56/3Ru5-DZh4bE There is a new breed of young riders about to turn pro coming out of Hawaii led by Trevor Kam, JB Hillen, Matt Holzmann, Alex Brown and then a 14 year old rider from the big island named Baz who won his division at the US open are all potentially on a trajectory to become top riders as they can already pretty much compete with anyone. SURGE: Everyone is curious, and answer only if you want to, but did you base the MS Vipers off of Toobs Bluntcuts? Are they are hybrid of Vipers and Blunts? (It would definitely make sense because Bluntcuts came from Churchills, which you used when you were with Morey.) MS: The new MS Viper might look similar to blunt cuts from a distance but if you look at them close and compare them there is really nothing the same. Itâ€™s probably noteable that I spend a lot of time thinking and designing fins and big difference to me might only be small ones to someone else. SURGE: What is your personal thoughts on the format of the IBA? MS: I think itâ€™s pretty good actually. The only change I would like to see is four man priority when the conditions warrant it. Of course I would also like to see more spectacular venues but there is just not a lot of sponsorship dollars for that at the moment. Everyone in the IBA knows this and we are working towards this. It would be great to see some sponsorship support
from outside of the industry. I believe what the IBA needs, and the sport of bodyboarding for that matter, is an event at El Fronton in the Canary Islands, with swell and good infrastructure. The action that would be witnessed here would be undeniable. It would demonstrate to the world that at one of the most technically challenging waves in the world that bodyboarding is by far the most radical and visually spectacular form of wave riding. Â SURGE: We heard (in Movement Mag) you had an argument during a contest with Ben Player, can you tell us more about it and does this happens often between competitors on the IBA tour ? MS: First off Ben and I are friends (still) so I donâ€™t hold negativity for the guy. There is definitely some cultural differences between guys from different countries, and this became very clear after this whole episode. Ben will be the first one to tell you that he has a big mouth and it gets him in trouble. This was one of those situations. The difference this time was it got me in trouble as well. Last year I was leading the world tour going into Sintra Portugal. With the double points awarded to this event it was the most important event for riders still in title contention. I had a very difficult heat. Lucas (the guy I came runner up to in Brazil in similar conditions) Diego (2nd at pipe this year and winner of the last event last year) and Ben Player. None of these other riders where in title contention, and had nothing to loose but where starving for a result. As it went I caught a right that was nothing, maybe 3 points. Ben went left and got an 8. I paddled back out, a peak came in I paddled quickly to get it, caught it and paddled back out. Ben starts swearing at me and freaking out. First I thought he was joking but then I realized he was serious. Swearing and going on about he was waiting for the set longer and I had just paddled out. I
A STEWART GEM / PH: NEAL MIYAKE / HISURFADVISORY.COM
honestly was completely oblivious to his waiting as I don’t typically keep track of these things in a heat like this. Furthermore Lucas and Diego aren’t exactly going to sit back and give you waves. However if it was just Ben and we agreed to take turns (as us riders sometimes do) I would honor that for sure. But nothing was said before the heat and regardless this was an unclaimed peak in my view. I am disappointed in myself to let his banter get into my head but it did. As it turned out Diego got a nine with a couple minutes left that pushed me into third. Ben still leading, I needed an 8 or something to advance. I hit a flip on my last wave and ended up getting a 7. World title hopes seemed to slip away in a matter of seconds. To put it mildly I was not happy and this certainly did not help matters. I walked off the beach bummed and some minutes later I approached Ben in the parking lot about the situation. Now I asked him, what the f was he yelling at me in the heat for, he already had a solid score? Ben raised his voice and started a verbal attack. Where I am from if someone does this, in this manner it’s a form of disrespect and a challenge to fight. With his last utter I unfortunately lost my cool and basically said I would drop him right here. Lord knows I wanted to. He then said I don’t want to fight you. I walked away quickly knowing I would regret any of my actions if I stayed any longer. About an hour later he found me down the beach and he apologized. I said sorry, I felt like I lost the title in that heat and everything culminated all at once. We had apologized, hugged and everything was cool again, or so I thought until reading the Le Boogie article some months later. At this point it doesn’t bother me to bring it up again and at least set the record straight on my perspective of the incident. You sometimes hear about some minor spats (not unlike this one) or at the most some hugging matches between riders but things are surprising cool on tour for the most part as everyone has quite a bit of respect for each other, but mainly I think because bodyboarders are generally a cool tribe of people. SURGE: Mike, could you give us a detailed rundown on your fitness and diet regiment? Yoga, Pilates, strength/core training? How often each week? etc... MS: I am committed to having a healthy lifestyle to be able to continue to enjoy the surf and the amazing experiences it offers. This means some of the following:
1. Adequate sleep, water consumption and balance in my life. 2. I eat organically when ever possible and do my best to follow my metabolic type diet. 3. I stretch for about an hour in the morning everyday. 4. I try to get in the water every opportunity 5. I have a specifc (for my body) core work out and specifc intervals following the Chek fitness philosophy. Paul actually wrote my programs designed specifically for myself and bodyboarding. 6. I treat my “business work” when ever possible in blocks of time that can be moved to be flexible around the surf. In saying this however when it’s crunch time as it is now, it’s not uncommon for me to have 15 hour days of office work.
SURGE: Mike, what’s your favorite wave MS: California, Probably the wedge Hawaii, Pipe South Pacific, Teahupoo Australia. There are quite a few to choose from here. I think you have to add El Fronton in the Canarie islands as this could be in my top 2 or 3 of all time favorites. SURGE: Mike, what is the single most terrifying moment you have ever had in the water? MS: Memories of fear get diluted over time as there relevance to your safety diminishes. I believe I confronted more intense fear, more frequently when I was younger just not knowing the boundaries as well as I might now. So for me the most terrifying moment comes briefly while you barely have time to contemplate consequences typically fearing for your life. Probably the most terrifying moments where being caught inside on otherworldly big, heavy waves and just really thinking you are going to die. Panic is a different thing. Panic happens with prolonged fear and nothing you are doing relieves the fear. I don’t experience this as much any more however recently it started to seep into my conscious. I was alone at an outer reef and tried to get in then got caught in a rip and got pulled out again. Huge 15’-18’ sets closed out the “channel” I was trying to get out through and just kept coming. The foam was so high I couldn’t get air and had to wave my hands back and forth to breath. I was stuck in the froth dunking and getting tumbled, wave after wave and just started feeling panicky that it wasn’t going to stop. If think if there would have been just a few more waves I don’t think I would have made it.
SURGE: Would you want to see the sport of bodyboarding take the same road to mega-industry status that surfing has taken? MS: There is two sides to this. On one hand it would be great to see the progress it would create. On the other I think inevitably it would loose some of it’s soul and the spirit of bodyboarding as other outside influences would enter the mix.
SURGE: Do you wish you would have accepted Quiksilver’s offer? Also why do you think big surf companies are so anti bodyboarding now? MS: I don’t. They are surfers, their heart is in the surfboard (as ours are in the Bodyboard). While we are all wave riders this hasn’t seemed to made a difference to them. Nothing has happened since that would make me think otherwise. What I find ironic is that many of the people working in these large surf organizations are Bodyboarders that eventually have had to shed their identity to cater to the surfers egos within them. I personally don’t care what you ride. I have good friends of every wave riding discipline. I do wish they could experience what I did last winter: I was on the west side of Oahu over at Makaha and I watched a white hair man do a pretty good spinner on a big bodyboard. The man was legendary surfer Buffalo Keaulana who is now in his 70’s and is now a bodyboarder to. This is a perfectly acceptable scenario there as Buff mixes it up with just about every form of wave riding there is, and no one blinks an eye, except me of course, whom is not entirely use to this most diverse and traditional cross section of wave riding at one place. At Makaha there is no age paradigm. No method bias. You ride a wave, you are a wave rider. No one said you have to be this age or that to ride this board or that. Imagine that. Imagine if these large companies had this perspective. How much further and more positive the spirit of wave riding would have on the rest of the world? SURGE: When the day comes that your body cannot preform physically and surfing critical pipeline is no longer an option because of your own health and safety, what’s next? MS: The coffin SURGE: What’s mike’s official statement on the BP oil spill?
SURGE: Who’s the greatest bodyboarder ever? MS: Bodyboarding is many things to many different people. The most diversity of participants of any wave riding discipline. The reason we started is to have fun. To me the one having the most fun embodies the spirit of bodyboarding the greatest. SURGE: How do you feel that these young surfers these days are making millions and you have been pushing the limits for years. Don’t you think bodyboarders should be compensated just as fairly as they are. MS: I guess you could say Bodyboarders have walked a more difficult path. I am completely cool with this. Life is about challenge. Reaching your goal is an amazing peak experience, but what I have realized is that the striving for things is more about truly living. SURGE: What do you think It’s going to take to bring our industry back to the limelight it once was in, and is it even possible? MS: An event at El Fronton during peak season with the same set up as the Confital, Canary Island event. The event would also need prize money and a great webcast. I think this would be a good start. At the same time a grass roots bodyboarding tour. Add a couple technical board breakthroughs to get people interested and back to the beach. These are some of the things I can think of. SURGE: What Hawaiians do you see that have the it factor? (This goes for Australia, West Coast, East Coast, Japan, and anyone that has really caught your eye.) MS: There are now many amazing riders from every part of the world. Not just Hawaii or Australia. Look who’s leading the world tour at the moment. SURGE: It seems like Style and Power have taken a back seat in the sport with the exception to a handful of guys. Why do you think some guys are not giving a crap about what their riding looks like and do you think progression of these new maneuvers need to adopt a more polished look and why? MS: I think there is a huge opportunity for someone to combine the both and when they do they will lead the sport at least from a technical riding’s standpoint.
STEWART PRE-THINKING HIS PADDLE OUT / PH: CONAN WHITEHOUSE / CONANWHITEHOUSE.BLOGSPOT.COM
MS: Totally bummed about it. One of the biggest problems is this is (for most all of us) in our peripheral as it’s not in the ocean we surf. But imagine it being your Ocean, your break. How bad would that be? Imagine what would be happening with all the ocean creatures and just how utterly bummed you would be? We ride a board from petroleum yet I hate oil! I would rather ride Alaia’s and get ride of oil and abandon Bodyboards all together that’s how bad I hate Oil. Too many war’s, too much pollution, it’s greed fuel!
PH: BRYAN PEZMAN / PEZPIX.COM
Hawaii’s Premiere Bodyboard Shop The Foam Company www.thefoamco.com by Alisha Kayama
Stoke for bodyboarding, love of the sport and the people who do it, definitely inspired Cary and me to open a bodyboard shop on Maui. Maui bodyboarders are a giant boogie family where everyone knows each other. A place where the bodyboard community is so strong that bodyboarders outnumber surfers at many spots. Cary and I recognized that surf shops didn’t give the sport the credit it deserved, always pushing bodyboarding aside as a secondclass sport. So after lots of prayer, God opened doors and we opened The Foam Company in 2003. Our hope was that our shop would validate the sport on Maui, help grow the industry, and get bodyboarders the best equipment available—not just by being another surf shop with some boogies on the shelf, but a core board store. All the while focusing on supporting anything bodyboarding from up and coming rippers, local pros, local bodyboarding companies, competitions, clubs, and so on. It’s been nearly seven years since we opened, and I know that our success surprises other Maui shops. “They are doing something right,” sprang from the lips of another surf shop owner. We put God first, and then relationships and community before anything else. Our customers get no bull, just unbiased real information and access to as much equipment as we can fit in 850 square feet. During the busy seasons we have about 400 boards in the shop, sometimes literally piled up to the ceiling on top of the board racks. A couple of years ago we piloted an online store, and are extra stoked to be able to send product to supporters around the world! We are super psyched on our bodyboard team. Over the years we have been able to put together a sick team, both pro and am. We have thirteen riders right now. Amateur standouts to lookout for are Jesse Walsh, Ha’aheo Auweloa, and Matt Holzman (Kauai). These guys are young and motivated, impressing the boys with their skills and traveling to compete. I cannot say enough about how proud we are of our pro team, especially Dave Hubbard, Jacob Romero, and Leroy Ka’iwi. They are the very best in the world, proving their status time and time again. To be able to support these guys in their endeavors is an honor as they continue to make Hawaii proud. CHOKE respect! For the future, we hope to be able to sponsor more events at both pro and amateur levels, support our riders, and stay on top of the product market. We were amped about being the primary sponsor of the Pipeline Dropknee Pro this year. FOAM CO. Pipeline Dropknee Pro … we like the sound of that. Although, this is only the beginning because Cary is working on his line of hand shaped customs boards—Valley Isle Bodyboards (VIB), which he anticipates will be available this winter. As for the industry, as with everything, bodyboarding took a hit with this gnarly recession. We are bummed to see shops and companies go out of business, and it reminds us of the importance of supporting local, honest bodyboard companies more than ever. Bodyboarding benefits from more amateur contests and community events, too, so we are working with Maui Organized Bodyboarders (MOB … check them out on Facebook) to put together a solid club with a contest series that everyone can be a part of. We are very stoked on Surge online magazine, an unbiased portrayal of our sport, so MAHALO SURGE for stoking out the entire spunjah nation. Bodyboarding will never die, it’s in our blood, it brings us joy, it kicks our okole (butt), it’s what we eat, sleep, breath and dream of. Come visit us at the shop, watch a DVD, shoot the bull with the employees and check out some equipment! God Bless!
FOAM CO OHANA:
PH: BRYAN PEZMAN / PEZPIX.COM
Back row left to right BJ, Rick Asuncion, Kingsley Uaiwa, Kona Kuailani, Jimmy Hutaff, Xavier Tongson, Earl chun,
2nd row unknown, Kainoa Pihana, Josh Dela cruz, Cary Kayama, Rawlee Ramos, Jonah Romero, Gabe Tongson, Anna Greenwood, Bert Kuwahara front row Ryan, Mike Fernandez, Jesse Walsh, Me and kala, Nic Drose, Marcus Rodrigues, Kai Fernandez
hitting my pillow before 2am seem low...
5:47am, Completely drunk in a Mexican surf town. Dawn threatening to crack through the darkened skies any moment. The little Irish guy, one of the Canadians braddahs and the Finnish girls were still drinking at the after-hours bar alongside myself as Tyler Wiemann napped in the nearby hotel working on two hours of sleep and practically needing a total blood transfusion from the countless beers, mixed drinks and dancing we had endured this debauchery filled night. This was going to be a rough morning to shoot. Maybe if I just laid my head on the pillow for just a second...
Debauchery. We are rock-stars in our own minds sometimes in the surf culture. We are outsiders of normal society surely, yet the glamour our sport exudes draws an element of celebrity with all its drawbacks and bonuses. And as a surf photographer, we are drawn to be as much of our surroundings as our riders. That thought can poison minds and destroy productivity. But the allure of pseudo-celebrity status, especially when cute girls are nearby to impress, can be quite a challenge.
Summer, freedom to pursue exotic travel by scouring the Pacific for exotic surf to cruising to the Atlantic for some epic storm surf to even the Indian Ocean and its warm and clear waters. The hunt for waves is an ever-present passion for surf riders. Both surfer and their media support are nomadic adventures seeking the ultimate thrill ride at the lowest damn cost possible. After all, we bodyboarders are a modest demographic in the surf universe, humble missionaries and diplomats of the American boogie scene. Give us shelter, food and mind-numbing drink at whatever reasonable fare afforded. We are boogie nation, humble servants of the ocean. Good people. 9:03pm, The previous evening. After a solid dinner with the Canadian friends we met at the Puerto airport, Tyler and myself are maintaining a solid buzz with the promise of a mellow night. Surely an early night’s rest before the morning dawn patrol is a moral imperative. And yet, just then comes a knock in our cushy airconditioned beachfront hotel room. It was the worldtraveling Finnish girls, all four of them looking to hit the bars with us. Blasted, we can survive on seven hours sleep right? In the midst of the travel frenzy comes high expectations. Surely a well-rounded trip will involve gloriously consistent surf, good media support and a higher sense of achievement. But what of those other trips, the ones we’ve all had before. Bad surf, bad crew, equipment failure, poor weather or unforeseen calamity. Those scar-ridden horrific trips seem like the ones to forget are they not? Perhaps so, and yet, as a surf photographer, some of my fondest memories come from failed or less-successful trips. I look back at a handful of failed trips and consider them to be some of my best memories. Sometimes that is the greater accomplishment at the end of the day as we travel. And of course, there’s always the ever-present debauchery to help create memories. 11:17pm, The beer has been flowing at a classy Puerto Escondido cantina which featured belly dancing and exotic music. The temperature inside this particular watering hole is hovering in the low triple-digits as we drink our frosty libations just for pure survival. The Finnish girls think that one of our Canadian friends is Kelly Slater. We do nothing to encourage any other frame of mind. Good times ensue. Simply put, my hopes of
12:14am, We’ve abandoned beer for rum. And a tequila chaser. Where the hell did I put my camera? 12:17am, Found the camera, and somehow wound up double fisting shots of Jack Daniels while Tyler is playing wingman for our doppelganger Canadian pseudo-surfer. The Finnish girls are clearly impressed as we have Tyler and “Mr. Slater” both sign autographs for them. Five hours till dawn. I’ll just need three hours of sleep and a total blood change. No problem. A key contributor to bad trips is always funding. Creative ways to be thrifty on trips is key to survival. Some surfers go on trips with the deep pocket mentality, whether or not they can afford it. For example, expensive rooms on the North Shore, gnarly airline ticket costs, pricey food in Tahiti, outrageous board bag fees in Mexico, all seem to contribute to these critical shortages on many trips. The saving grace is sharing aloha wherever we go to create friendships and brotherhood. I’ve lost track of how many couches and beds I’ve been generously given by a friend or family in the surf world. That alone makes a bad trip into a great one because you suddenly find yourself a part of an extended family. Of course, it goes both ways. Whenever a friend needs a ride from the airport or a place to sleep, it’s never a question. They will always be welcome in my home. That is part of the brotherhood of surfing and a big part of why I love this sport. 1:39am, I order an entire bottle of rum and a coke. We decide to leave the bar ... right after we get kicked out. Just then, as we stumble down the sidewalk towards our after hours destination, our Kelly Slater look-a-like Canadian slips and somehow half falls hip deep into a gaping construction pit lining the sidewalk and bloodies up his entire leg. Tyler and I are convinced it’s a secret maneuver to lock down the quickly fawning Finnish girls into going back to his room. It’s working. Damn him, what a great trick. Well, except for the gaping hole in his leg and the sliced open bloody pants. We lose one of the Finnish girls and Kelly Slater for the rest of the night as she tends to his wounds. Three and a half hours til dawn. Epic. A well-known fact. Mother Nature herself is generally not a surf fan more often than not. Rarely does the wind & surf cooperate just the way we envision it. I’ve lost track of how many wasted days and end
less search for waves have come up with nothing but gas receipts and zero surf to catch at home, let alone on surf outings when it becomes far more painful to tolerate poor conditions. Nothing is worse than spending money daily on rental houses, cars, and food when we are unproductive on the road. It’s poor surf days like that which, as a photographer, become great venues to branch out and refine our techniques. My own salvation this winter lied on the dry reef between Shark’s Cove and Ke’iki beach on the North Shore shooting alongside my friend BJ and Zach in macking surf. The surf that hits Ke’iki beach shorebreak and directly next to it at Shark’s Cove is amongst the heaviest shorepound in the world. If you stood right in front of it with tourist eyes, you’d never appreciate just exactly how beautiful and unforgiving that little stretch of waves are on a human body. Quiet moments at Ke’iki were the most rewarding this winter. Watching from the dry reef as the surf unleashed, sometimes coming in at 15 foot Hawaiian, was exhilaration beyond measure. Capturing the essence of the huge, heaving A-frames that would explode onto dry sand became my very redemption when conditions weren’t perfect. That jagged, gnarled stretch of dry reef offered a reprise from the madness of waiting out poor conditions so often, in fact, that sometimes I look back at times spent on the North Shore and find myself drawn more to experiencing the awe of watching empty Ke’iki shorebreak more than shooting at Pipeline and its insane circus-like atmosphere. 3:23am, The after-hours bar, where we meet up with our Irish friend, who is fresh out of being kicked out of his hostel for coarse language (nothing beats hearing an Irishman blurt out “Ah fer fooks sake”). We all decide to wander onto the moonlit beach as the remaining Finnish girls attempt to impress us with their drunken cartwheels on the sand. Our Irish friend, unfazed by the rather big surf in the background, decides he’s going to take a drunken swim in full clothes. On one of the gnarliest beach breaks in the world. In near darkness. This is going to end well. Not. Just then Tyler half rescues our Irish friend out of waist high water, and then proceeds to call it a night as the rest of us baby-sit the Irishman back at the after-hours pub. Two hours til dawn. Yup, it was gonna be an all-nighter. The crew. The single most critical element to making a good trip. Go with a bunch of whining, unmotivated, unpleasant friends and a good trip with epic surf can still be rendered complete shit. Of all the trips I’ve been on I’ve never had a single bad experience with my crews. We’ve seen plenty of drama, mostly over girls, lack of alcohol and food disappearing, but generally I’ve been fortunate to have solid crews to go with. Not that it wasn’t luck mind you. My favorite experiences have always been because of the friends I have brought on the trips and the ones that I make on the road. I can fondly remember sitting down alongside a little supermarket in Puerto with Tyler Wiemann and Miguel Ramirez drinking a beer and watching a tranquil sunset as we talk stories. Or cruising around with Da Landlord searching for 7-11 sushi grinds on a mellow North Shore evening. Even getting all
ripped with the San Clemente crew drinking Jack Daniels in a little hotel room on the beach on a Mainland Mexico surf break were gems in my memories. All of which are part of the true experience of good trips and how we remember them. 6:07am, Dawn, horrible sobering dawn. Whoever the hell invented dawn patrol should be shot. Who needs glassy waves at this hour? Trashed out, lumpy afternoon onshore waves are fun to shoot right? I wake Tyler from his coma as I stumble half-drunk back to the room. The allure of my pillow is overwhelming. Tyler gets his gear and prepares to hit the beach where perfect near double overhead A-frames and solid Puerto ramps at Zicatela await him for the first and only time on our trip. At this time, I proceeded to explain to Tyler the importance of inspecting my eyelids for a few seconds as I fall prey to my pillow. The last gasp of words I utter to him are a mumbling incoherent mix of where I will set up the camera when he gets in the lineup and how to find him in the lineup. And then I fade to black. 10:27am, The door opens. “PEZZZZZZZZZZ!” I snap awake as if my eyelids had literally just closed moments ago. It was Tyler. He had just surfed the entire session, gotten himself shacked and a couple sick ramps. And his reward, zero photo support. Blown Session. I accidentally slept the entire morning away. And in a surf zone like Puerto Escondido, that’s a punishing effort because once those onshore winds kick up at 10am every morning, that was the end of the surf for the entire day. I was gonna have to endure the guilt for an entire heat-filled, head throbbing, body aching day. Tyler smiled, knowing that I was going to beat myself up far more than he would. Hell, at least he had a decent surf session at last. We never did get the surf good again until the final day of that trip, and I came home with only a handful of usable photos, but the lingering memories of a true sense of adventure still stick in my mind. Our various misadventures on that trip were also our reward since we had such epic memories of not only the parties and social scene, but because we had a solid travel crew and an adventure that most people outside the surf world will probably never experience and appreciate the way that we as watermen and their supporters do. We truly are a boogie nation brotherhood. All Photos Courtesy of Bryan Pezman
Guillermo “Yamo” Guerra / BZ, Morey, Churchill. Some men and women have been around bodyboarding long enough to see it all. They experienced the recessions and watched trends spike and vanish. Meanwhile, they worked alongside generations of dedicated bodyboarders. With all of that comes wisdom. Wisdom that is resourceful for any lover of the sport. Guillermo “Yamo” Guerra is one of these men—a world class bodyboard shaper with close to twenty-five years of shaping experience. “Yamo,” as he is known, started working for BZ in 1986 when Scott Burke, his neighbor in Oceanside, offered him a job after a day at the beach. At the time, BZ was in full-fledged production with forty to forty-five employees on the floor working to pump out bodyboards. Yamo started from the bottom sweeping the shop. From there he moved to laminating, eventually making his way to shaping boards. Mentored by the legendary Greg Szabad, co-owner of BZ, on the techniques of shaping, Yamo eventually progressed his way up to production manager in the early 90s. Through the years, Yamo has shaped boards for the world’s best. Through working with bodyboarders from Kauai Classic’s Harry Antipala to the current world champion Jeff Hubbard, he has sharpened his skills and provided riders with the highest quality in custom boards. With that much said, we asked Yamo some questions that might shed light and wisdom on materials, shapes, and custom boards. How have the materials changed over the years? Back then when I first started it was pretty much all Dow core without stringers and pe decks. Soon after we started using Arcel core, and we started using stringers in our Dow boards. Around early-mid 90s we started using pp core, crosslink decks, and surlyn bottoms. At this time, the quality of Dow core is not what is was when I started, it’s pretty bad. Now it’s mostly beaded pp core since they stopped producing extruded pp. What is a major difference between the boards then and now? The biggest difference is the boards were much thicker and wider. Today boards are thinner and narrow. Who do you shape for today and who is most critical when it comes to their boards? Jeff Hubbard, David Hubbard, Matt Meyer, Mike Lepiere, Pyper Luellen, and Travis Smith, to name a few. I think most critical would have to be David Hubbard. What keeps you excited about shaping? Every board I shape is a little different. I always try to make the next board better than the previous one. There are so many different color combos you can do that it’s always exciting to see how my next board is going to look. I like checking out the other shapers boards, to me it’s like competing against the other shapers to make mine better as well as perform better What should riders know first before they approach a shaper for a custom? Most importantly, they should know what size board works best for them. They should, at least, know what length they ride. What’s in the future for bodyboards? Hopefully we will develop some new better cores and better stringer systems. As far as shapes go, I don’t see too much change from what we are seeing right now, narrow and thin. What people don’t know about you? My friends started calling me “Yamo” because they had a hard time saying Guillermo. Any people you would like to thank? My parents for making it all happen. YAMO DOING WHAT HE DOES BEST / PH: ALEX VERHARST / VERHARSTPHOTOGRAPHY.BLOGSPOT.COM
Photo: Conan Whitehouse
Photo: Conan Whitehouse
Photo: Bryan Pezman
Photo: Ron Ziebell
CHRIS SCHLEGEL / PH: NICOLA LUGO / NICOLALUGO.COM
The anticipation about our trip to Chile couldnâ€™t have been more intense. Months of organizing
have finally come to a head and the time has arrived for us to embark on an adventure many people may never attempt in their entire lives. In assembling the group we needed the right guys for the mission, guys who were well traveled and adept at handling whatever was thrown at them. Weâ€™ve all traveled with guys who are nice enough... for an hour, an afternoon, a whole day, even an entire weekend... but weâ€™ve also all traveled with guys who are good but not good to travel with for fifteen days straight.
Day 1: At the airport, I watched the scale climb straight past the 30s and 40s and quickly through the 50lbs mark. As it approached the 70lbs limit, I started to sweat a little... 61, 62, 63... 64 for a flicker but then back down to settle on 63lbs. “Man that was close,” I said to myself. I had a feeling that Juan and Nic’s bags are not going to make the cut, though. “What’s in this bag?” the airport attendant asked. “Oh just some swimfins and wetsuits,” I responded. “Hmm, no surfboards though, right?” she questioned. “Oh no, no surfboards,” I said. “Okay then, have a great trip,” she replied. “Yes, I am very excited,” I said agreeing and doing my best to keep the conversation focused away from the fact that Nic’s bag is probably 20lbs overweight. Whew ... first bullet dodged. No board fees or overweight charges. Bags checked. Tickets printed. Off to the gate we went. Travel time will be roughly 19 hours. Upon arrival, things got interesting. We were under the impression that customs would be the only thing in between us and Chile. Unfortunately, the infamous Swine Flu threw a monkey wrench into those plans. We were forced through a secured area with thermal imaging equipment, doctors, and security guards ready to pounce on anyone who so much as sneezed, coughed, or sniffled. The boys didn’t care, though. They were amped to be on the ground and ready to make moves. This was the first indication that we had assembled the right crew for the mission. After the Swine Flu scan, it was on to getting our bags through customs, before we were set loose on Chile. One by one the bags began to appear on the small baggage carousel in the tiny airport, but again we were hit with bad luck. Signor Dan’s board bag did not make the flight. After a chat with a baggage attendant we found out that his bag went to Atlanta and would not be in Chile until tomorrow, at best, with the possibility of it arriving the following day. Dan handled it like a true soldier; never swaying out of character from his usually laid back self, throwing jokes instead of insults. To do otherwise would misdirect his energy. Yet, another good sign of why Dan was right for the mission. Outside the airport we meet up with our local friend, Juancho Castilla, who is the man by the way. Brief back-
TYLER WIEMANN / PH: NICOLA LUGO / NICOLALUGO.COM
TYLER WIEMANN / PH: NICOLA LUGO / NICOLALUGO.COM
ground on Juancho: He and I met in 2002 during an exploratory trip to scout out some waves in a remote area of the Caribbean. He’s a cool cat and without his help the mission would have never gotten off the ground. His car is a classic, straight out of Japan, seven-person Mitsubishi Delica, which would be our wheels for the duration of the trip. After greetings and introductions Juancho informed us that we were in luck and going right in the water. On his way to the airport he checked one of his spots and said it was overhead and looking good for a surf. Just what the Swine Flu doctor ordered after 19 hours on a plane. We packed the car and headed on our way. “My dear lord,” I believe were the first words out of my mouth as we sat in the carpark, overlooking this heaving left, watching set after set unload on the shallow ledge, spinning quickly down the reef right into a channel. We’ve seen enough and are practically ripping our bags apart and scrambling to get at our gear. The surf goes great and everyone shares some big barrels. Signor Dan putting it down with my backup board! On to our apartmentc ... did I mention Juancho was the man yet? He had the place all G’d up for us: Three bedrooms, two baths, a balcony overlooking the ocean, cable, wifi, kitchen, and of course right across the street a ‘lil right ledge. We put down a good meal and a few celebratory beers before we crashed in our new digs for the next few weeks. Day 2: This morning we awoke to the sound of loud obnoxious banging at our door and crashing surf in front of our apartment. Juancho wanted us ready in 30 minutes. As if the pounding of his fist and the surf weren’t enough, Juancho insisted, “Man, we are going to score today.” That’s all we needed to hear to set us scrambling to unpack our bags and prepare ourselves for a drive to one of his new discoveries in the Desert. The Desert is a pretty uninviting place with little to offer aside from endless sand dunes and a cactus here or there... until it meets the ocean. Then the Desert has plenty to offer. I swear there was nothing alive out there but some vultures and sand flies that we found out later pack quite a punch for their size. For Juancho the Desert has been a place of many discoveries involving waves and possible set ups. During our drive we must have seen 10-20 setups, but Juancho insisted that we head to a spot that worked well under the current conditions. After quite a trek on a single lane desert highway, Juancho hooks a right and we all awake to the bumping of his Delica over rocks and sand. (Apparently, the Delica isn’t short for delicate, by the way Juancho drives.) The next site was spectacular: a large bay with 6ft A-frame shorebreak and howling offshore winds. What a cool deal! We haven’t even been here 24 hrs and already we are about to score our second session in solid waves with no one in the lineup. The Desert was far from deserted as far as we are concerned.
Day 3: Today the swell was down but still enough for the crew to hop in the water at the ‘lil right across the street. The session turned out to be pretty fun. Nic was on today, putting down some solid backside turns and this one sic floater over my duckdiving head. Too bad I didn’t have his housing in hand to capture the moment. What a character he is. Talented booger behind the lens and on the board. He was loving the rippable sections. We all got some fun ones and headed back to the apartment. There was a ‘lil place behind the apartment that sells massive sandwiches on the cheap. Walking the streets we also found a bottle shop around the corner from the apartment. We went big and took advantage of the two for 1750 peso deal on the 40oz. Arequipeñas … yea, that’s like $3 US for two 40oz’s. After that night, Arequipeña became our beer of choice, and our fridge looked like a Dr. Dre video for the duration of the trip. The sunset was mental and we all cruised the balcony taking photos and getting smashed. This place is sick! Day 5: Alright, I been here five days but I gotta confess: There are more car alarms in this city then any other country I’ve been in. Not only that, it takes but a pin hitting the ground to make them go off. Last night homeboy parked his car right outside the house and his alarm was on fire. Every fifteen minutes it was on the same melody over and over again. The boys got the jingle down so well we started taking turns going through it like it was our theme song. We could’ve yelled. We could’ve complained. We could’ve lost it on homeboy. But instead we were just over it. The only thing we hit was the surf and... score! A solid left was breaking sick ten mins from the apartment. Signor Dan had the wave of the session, nabbing a wide bomb and getting a big pit all the way into the channel! Day 7: Today the crew hit the water right before dark. We didn’t care how small and packed it was. We were going out and getting a couple. The tide looked good and we were over the car alarms, cat fights, and construction. We decide to run to a ‘lil left and then paddle our way back to the hotel, hitting two rights. The waves are fun with ‘lil barrels to a section. I even saw the three goofyfooters (Nic, Juan, and Dan) talking a ‘lil DK smack amongst each other.
PH: NICOLA LUGO / NICOLALUGO.COM
FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: JUAN FARFAN, ANGELES, JUANCHO, NIC, DAN, CHRIS / PH: NICOLA LUGO / NICOLALUGO.COM
JUAN “JUANCHO” CARLOS / PH: NICOLA LUGO / NICOLALUGO.COM
Day 10: This weekend we decided to take a camping trip with Juancho and his lady, Angeles. The swell was dropping and it seemed like a perfect time to go check out some more of what the Desert had to offer. One of the waves we surfed in the middle of the Desert we nicknamed Launchpads. It was an interesting setup in the middle of nowhere. A short reef wedge in the middle of a bay, breaking on a kelp covered rock mount. Many of the local people harvest the kelp here. We saw them every time we surfed there, and Juancho says the kelp regenerates so quickly in the fertile waters that they can make a living doing this. Apparently they can gather one ton with three days work and receive around 300 USD. That’s a solid buck for some seaweed if you ask me. The technique they use is old school with a long grapple hook and rope, something like James Bond would throw on a building to sneak up the side. Anyway back to Launchpads, it’s pretty much a novelty I’d say, not much of a barrel and a tricky ramp at the end. But when you get the proper one you can routinely blast out there. Today was Dan’s day, and the man was putting on a show out there. Big boosted revos and even some air forwards to mix it up. Day 11: Today the swell was forecast to peak! Just in time for Tyler’s arrival. I remember seeing the guy when I was half asleep at about 2am. No worries. We woke up, got him some Cheerios and Green Tea and off to the races we went. We decided the night before we were going to check a spot about ten minutes away from the apartment. Tyler got in the night before so we were all ready to go and fired up to see what the spot had in store for us. Sure enough it was pumping.
DAN CERA / PH: NICOLA LUGO / NICOLALUGO.COM
We pulled up to a super sick setup with two waves right next to each other. Without thinking twice we were out there and both waves were doing their thing. This spot was super cool: a deep channel ran down the middle of a bay with an A-frame dredger on one side and a left hell-slab on the other. Dan, Juan and I paddled out to the A-frame to start, while hellman Tyler true to form took on the heavy left all by himself. Our session was cut short, unfortunately, when Dan stroked into one of the better set waves and proceeded to get shacked all the way through before trying to back door the final section. It didn’t work out so well as the section went entirely dry. Dan landed on the urchin filled bottom, spraining his ankle and cutting his foot pretty bad. On the beach, Juan and I worked to get a taxicab and helped Dan get back to the apartment. Tyler, in the meantime, is holding it down at his left, repeatedly getting spit out of 6ft plus barrels. The locals are even cheering every time he takes off! Awesome day minus Dan’s run in with the bottom. Tonight Chile plays Paraguay in futbol. The Chileans take their futbol seriously and win or lose we are going to rage at one of the nuts nightclubs in town. I have a feeling we aren’t going to be surfing tomorrow, but we’ll see what goes down tonight! Day 12: Alright... so I been a few places in my day but this place by far has one of the most nuts party scenes going. Last night Chile played Paraguay in soccer and won in a huge upset. The local Chileans were going crazy celebrating, driving around all night honking horns, singing, and even shooting off guns. The celebration was our time to shine at the local nightclubs, with tons of cervezas going down and local chicks to be courted. I don’t know what I did to deserve this but one of the chicks we scoped out earlier in the club fell right down the stairs into my arms. Yea, she needed my beer to help ice those sore ribs. “Here ya go, girl.” No prob… her injury was shortlived as she took me right to the dance floor and showed me how Chilean girls get down. These girls are hot. Dark hair, dark skin, dark eyes, just what the Swine Flu doctor ordered! What a night. The crew separated for a few hours, but at first light we were all back at the apartment with some local ladies laughing at how crazy this place gets. Singor Dan and Juan were absolute animals drinking beers at 9am without any sleep! These guys are soldiers. I was a ‘lil faded this morning but still snuck out to get a solo session with nobody out at my fav right! Let’s hope Chile can win a few more futbol games while we’re here! Day 13: I woke up today and did the normal routine: Throw some water in the micro for tea, hit the bathroom and start stretching. Still feeling the effects from yesterday’s night out, we
NICOLA LUGO / PH: NICOLA LUGO / NICOLALUGO.COM
all were a ‘lil tired and hung. Today the swell was forecast to be coming up slowly all day. We decided if it was sunny we might try and shoot some water photos at the beachbreak in front of our house. The morning gloom was the norm during our trip with cloudy conditions and cool temps. By mid morning though it was a different story as the sun burst through the clouds and the temps began to heat up. The shorey in front of the house wasn’t really doing it so we decided to go check this other spot a short cab ride from the house. With Dan being down and out, Tyler, Nic and I hopped a cab over to check out the other shorey spot. Our first look at the shorebreak and we are amping. Solid overhead and thumping right on the beach. We run up and stretch out while figuring out the best spot to set up at. During our stretch a woman walking her dogs frantically ran up to us insisting that we do not go out there and that it is illegal to surf at this beach. We tell her we appreciate her looking out for us but ignore the blatantly posted signs and continue out into the lineup. This place was a perfect spot for shooting water photos. Ten to twenty yards off the beach the wave would jack up and throw big blue barrels into a very shallow inside. The session was going well and we were all amping on how perfect this spot was for shooting water. Tyler and I were getting some good tubes and flying right by Nic. Of course our luck caught up with us. With the swell coming up every fifteen to twenty minutes, a macker set would come thru and closeout pretty much the whole beach. We were waiting on these ones and Tyler was up on the next bomb. I remember him taking off and paddling over his wave only to see one almost double the size behind it. I scratched and was ready to take off, but when I turned around Nic was nowhere to be found. I pulled back at the last second only to watch the wave pitch and detonate right on Nic as he came up from the wave before. He popped up and things weren’t good. I heard him call for help and immediately took off after him. When I got to him he told me he got smashed and his shoulder was out, both fins gone and his hand was cut from the housing. I tried getting him on my board and kicking him in, but before I could get him to the safe zone another three beast set landed right on top of us. Tyler saw it all going down and booked to the scene. With my board lost from the big sets landing on us, I grabbed Nic’s housing, and we pulled Nic onto Tyler’s board. We got Nic to the beach safely but the damage had been done. Even more interesting was the fact that his camera was blasting off photos during the entire rescue. Pretty hectic when we went through them that evening drowning in our 2-for-1750 Arequipeñas. Day 15: Last night it was on! Signor Dan hooked up with the ladies at the new spot, right after his late night dance-a-thon two days ago. We met them at club Sala Murano late night. Two local boogs worked there and hooked us up fat. Free admission and VIP so we could cruise the top floor of the club without any scrappers getting in our way. To tell you the truth though, the bottom floor was where it was at. Chilean chicks love to dance and I think we all put on our dancing shoes when we went out. This became such a tradition we began creating our own dance moves and routines. Usu-
ally the schedule went something like this. Surf till dark, go get dinner, hit the bottle shop on the way home and load the fridge up, nap till midnight then go hard for about an hour, prep up and hit the club at around 2am. In the US, ya’ll would be going home to sleep at 2am. Well, in Chile the nights just getting started. Clubs pop till 6am there and even at 6am people are still dancing and getting wild. We were loving it.
CHRIS SCHLEGEL / PH: NICOLA LUGO / NICOLALUGO.COM
MAUI SCENIC / PH: JIMMIE HEPP / JIMMIEHEPP.COM
/ PH: SHEA
JONAH REVIVED “IAO STYLE” / PH: BRYAN PEZMAN / PEZPIX.COM
“Maui is Our Home” By: Jonah Romero
Long before Kamehameha’s reign and even before the Hawaiian people took over the islands, there was a little boy named Maui. A stillborn at birth, Maui was cast into the depths of the sea where he was reborn and taught the knowledge of the sun god Ra. Upon his return home, his brothers didn’t accept him because they had grown to distrust Maui. On a fishing trip one afternoon, Maui was determined to prove himself and regain the trust of his brothers. He did so by casting out his line and pulling up a large landmass from the ocean floor. From then on, this large mass was known as the island of Maui.
Nicknamed the “Valley Isle” for a good reason, the island of Maui consists of two mountain ranges, Hale’akala to the east and The West Maui Mountains to the west, forming a huge valley in the middle. Maui’s lands are beautiful and breathtaking, although they go much deeper. For instance, Hana, known today as being one of the last towns untouched by developments, was once home to Kalaniopu’u. Kalaniopu’u was most known for teaching Kamehameha I the art of war. Then there’s Iao Valley, the site of the last battle against Kemahameha I. For years our ancestors fought for this land because it was more than just a piece of earth to them, the land (‘aina) was their life. The same goes for the watermen of our generation, the ocean is all we have and the waves are sacred to us. But just like Kamehameha’s land was taken and exploited, the same has happened with our ocean. In the eyes of some, our waves look like fat paychecks and cover shots, and every winter spots like Honolua and Peahi (Jaws) are overrun by out of town professionals trying to turn our waves into money. As a result, over the years the people of Maui have formed distrust with foreigners and, unfortunately, at times with each other. Growing up we all took to our own sides of the island. That’s just how it was. We formed into groups and stuck to our “home breaks.” The guys from Waiehu surfed Churchez, the west side guys stuck to Honolua, and the guys from Pakuz stayed there. Just like the ancient Hawaiians, we fought for what was ours. Through time we’ve been able to work a lot of this out. A story that sticks out in my mind is about how I became friends with Kona Kuailani: Kona was from Pakuz, and I was from Churchez. One day he came down to Churchez. Long story short, he dropped in on me and after a few words, fists flew. Ironically, about a month later my brother Jacob said that Kona was coming with us to a GOB event on the Big Island. I was disgusted and upset to say the least. We did not say a word to each other until we got to the actual event. Fed up with ignoring each other, we began realizing that we were just two kids in a sport that was much bigger than us. From then on we pulled together and rooted for each other throughout the event. When we came home, we pushed each other’s riding and our bond strengthened. It was fun. Little by little, everyone else started catching on. We found common ground, and throughout the years it seems we all have. Marcus Rodrigues explains things best: “Here on Maui we understand the meaning of aloha spirit.” Sure it may be a simple way people say “hello” or “goodbye,” but here on Maui it’s the love we share with each other as a unit, as an island, as a family. Back in the day guys like Jens Jensen, Chad Burges, Leroy Ka’iwi, Jimmy Hutaff, Cary Kayama, Richard Pata, Eric Snyder, Chad Militante, and Mikey McGuire, had more resources and companies willing to support them in bodyboarding. So in a sense, that gave them more the reason to do it. However, things aren’t the same for the new generation. There aren’t as many resources as before. Guys like the Romeros, Kona, Kingsley, Marcus, Wade-O, and Koops (just to name a few), have to find other ways to make it. While some of us have sponsors and some of us don’t, the beauty is that it doesn’t matter. It’s never been about that on Maui—we love bodyboarding, but we are not defined by it. So what makes us so special? Simple. Through the years we’ve pulled together as an island because we’ve regained that trust and found that “aloha” within each other. Bottom line, we’ve become a family, and “Maui is Our Home”.
Home! This is the island I was born on, the island that the majority of my life was spent on, and where most of my family and friends are. I have been all over the world (and I do mean all over the world) but always look forward to coming home … there is no place like home. Not sure what it is but we are definitely blessed to live here. As for Maui bodyboarding, it’s still going strong. The waves here aren’t good all the time, but when it’s good it’s GOOD! I feel so stoked to have been able to witness generation after generation progress and improve in skill. The older generation of guys like Jimmy Hutaff, Bert Kuwahara, Carey Kayama, Mikey McGuire, Chad Militante, and myself, helped make bodyboarding what it is on Maui. After them came guys like Evan, Marcus, Delzy, Battz, and Jayden. Then there are Kona, Kingsley, Jacob and Jonah Romero, and my brother Bobby. Lastly, to the new school, there are my cousin Cody and KC, Nic Boy and Ha’a. (These names are only some of the guys ‘cause if I put everybody down, then my hands would suffer cramps from typing guarantee.) Being Hawaiian born, I have lived on Maui, Big Island and O’ahu. I have love for all the Hawaiian islands (Kauai being my newest love). It’s good to represent the island you are from but people tend to forget we all represent Hawaii— not just as a state, but also as a people! Live life with aloha, love, and respect, and only good things will happen. But word to the wise for all you visitors, show disrespect and you will find out the true meaning of “ONE CRACK, MEDIVAC!” So don’t get it twisted! -Leroy Ka’iwi
LANDLORD “FALLS” / PH: BRYAN PEZMAN / PEZPIX.COM
LANDLORD “OWNING IT” IN DK FASHION / PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON
WADE “O” HBAY BOMB / PH: MIKE NEAL / WWW.MNEAL.NET
What doesn’t Maui mean to me? Being born and raised here is the best thing that has ever happened to me. It seems like everyone on Maui is so close— we all know and respect each other. It’s not like the North Shore (with the exception of the boys over there) where everyone goes to get famous. We all just like to have fun and push each other in the water. The bodyboarding scene is growing a lot, too. As a grom, we learned by pushing each other in the water. Today, all the up and coming groms are doing the same; but, at the same time, it’s crazy watching these kids push it so much harder than we did. -Wade Saunders
KUPAI KEAHI AT HBAY / PH: DAVID BAKER
MAUI means everything to me. It’s my island home. What I really like about Maui is that every side of the island has something different to offer. You have to see it to believe it. Living here is a true paradise— mostly sunny, warm waters, trade winds, and it rains pretty much everyday. In Hawai’i, bodyboarding is a way of life we start as a keiki going to the beach—falling in love with the ocean, the sand, the beach, and the waves. Then comes the bodyboard (the first type of board everyone usually starts on in Hawai’i), and that’s where wave riding starts at a young age and just sticks with you for life. It’s a simple fun get-away to be in the ocean riding waves, enjoying life and forgetting about everything on land. Maui has all types of waves to offer, which is great for an all around bodyboarder. I grew up bodyboarding at Ho’okipa Beach Park and at a place called Oluwalu. Mostly everyone knows each other in the water, so it’s more of a “lets push each other” rather than “challenge each other” kind of vibe. The level of bodyboarding is rising right now on Maui. For the first time in Maui history, we have a Mauian competing on the world tour, and the kids here are entering and winning contests all over the map like never before. We have also been planning trips and getting new video equipment and stuff for our future bodyboard films. Then there’s The Foam Company, Maui’s bodyboard shop, that’s leading all of us in a great direction, supporting everyone in the sport with all the proper equipment. I must say the future looks bright for Maui bodyboarding. I love Maui and what it has done for me and my bodyboarding. MAUI NO KAI OI. The number one island! -Marcus Rodrigues
MARCUS LIFESTYLE / PH: BRYAN PEZMAN / PEZPIX.COM
MARCUS “LAUNCH TIME” / PH: DAVID BAKER
Maui is home for me and a lot of other super good bodyboarders, from legends to the grommies. We definitely ain’t the most consistent island when it comes to waves; but when it goes off, it goes off. We have legendary rippers here, from Leroy, Jimmy, and a whole lot of others, that helped us younger guys push ourselves in and out of the water. Growing up here you always have your rivals competing, but you find yourself on a crazy trip with them a couple years later. There’s a lot of mental guys coming up and are killing, so hopefully soon the world will get to see these kids do work! All the Maui guys are super good—they kill—and are the coolest guys around. All Aloha and drama! Thank god I live on Maui! Auriiii! -Kingsley Uaiwa
MAUI … it’s my home and who doesn’t love home? This place is the zone. So sick! Everything’s close, everyone’s close, and there’s no biasness towards anybody even though maybe get some agg peeps on land. But if you connected through the water, it’s pretty much all bull aside. Growing up I lived in Waiehu … pretty much the zone. All the boogieing I could handle. Mile to the left, got the Romeros and Churches; mile to my right is Pakuz with groms; then a lil bit more is Ledge and Harbors, where the Kaiwi’s dwell. Ha! My two fav waves in the world (and I been some places). The scene is sick here. Along this stretch has so much all age talent. Sum how everyone kills it! Seriously too much guys! Not just this side ... go more north Paia boyz n stuff and the west side guys kill it redikerous. Everyone here knows how high you can go with it, so everyone is down to progress and step it up. We just need more industry support, though. Guys lose their edge ‘cause after a while it gets hard when they can’t boogie for a living. Right now we have The Foam Company holding it down in the Maui Mall. They’re distributing all the boogies to everyone that needs a boogie! They pick up all the groms who have major talent that actually want to pursue it. Love this island and the people. Maui No Ka Oi! -Kona Kuailani
KONA & KINGSLEY LIFESTYLE / PH: BJ / BLYSSPERSPECTIVES.COM
KINGSLEY UAIWA / PH: BRYAN PEZMAN / PEZPIX.COM
KONA REVO / PH: BRYAN PEZMAN / PEZPIX.COM
Maui is everything! Being away as much as I’ve been these last two years has made me appreciate everything that Maui has to offer. From the ocean to the mountains, everything has its special meaning to me. Whenever I’m back home from a trip or something, Maui recharges me and makes me feel so alive again. It’s an awesome feeling to be home. The bodyboarding scene on Maui is huge. We are like family and we all bodyboard with each other. There are so many groms that are ripping … it’s sick! Everyone wants to have fun and no one gets agg while we surf. It’s awesome man! -Jacob Romero
JACOB “BUSTING ARS” / PH: SHEA SEVILLA
To me Maui means everything. My family is there and so is my heart. Everybody knows everybbody and even if you’ve never met, you just feel that welcoming feeling from strangers, aunties, uncles EVERYBODY! There is no other way to describe Maui to me other than when I touchdown at OGG or the Maui airport I feel a sens of calm come over my body. I feel complete when i’m home. -Jonah Romero
JONAH LOOKING FORWARD TO SOME SHACK TIME / PH: SHEA SEVILLA
HAWAIIAN GOLD / PH: DANE GRADY / DANEGRADY.COM
PH: ANDREW CHISHOLM / ANDYCHIZ.COM
SOME OF SAN DIEGO FINEST / PH: AARON GOULDING / JAGMEDIAPRODUCTIONS.COM
MEET THE “KEIKI” / PH: BRYAN PEZMAN / PEZPIX.COM
HAWAIIAN MAGIC / PH: DANE GRADY / DANEGRADY.COM
PICTURE PERFECT / PH: JORDAN STALLARD / JORDANSTALLARD.COM
PR / PH: EVAN CONWAY / REDDAWNPRODUCTIONS.NET
WINTER GEM / PH: BRYAN PEZMAN / PEZPIX.COM
PR / PH: EVAN CONWAY / REDDAWNPRODUCTIONS.NET
OUTER REEF BOMB / PH: DAVID BAKER / FACEBOOK.COM
SAN DIEGO DOING ITS BEST PIPE IMPRESSION / PH: MATT BYZAK / EIGHTYONEIMAGES.COM
ROUNDING OFF / PH: JON ALEXANDER / JON-ALEXANDER.COM
MADNESS / PH: EVAN FA / EVANFA.BLOGSPOT.COM
EVENING FLAIR / PH: MATT VAUGHN
PH: JAY “J-BONES” VODIPIJA
PH: JULIEN DURAND
CALIFORNIA WIRE / PH: CHRIS ALLEN / ALLEN-PHOTOS.COM
CALIFORNIA GREEN MACHINE / PH: CHRIS ALLEN / ALLEN-PHOTOS.COM
WHAT ABOUT THE LEFT? / PH: BRYAN PEZMAN / PEZPIX.COM
“SLAB” / PH: MICHAEL BOLTON
“PIPE IN ITS MOHAWK STAGE” / PH: JORDAN STALLARD / JORDANSTALLARD.COM
Surge Jams by Matthew Newbold Note: Every month Surge will provide a music option to edit your footage to and bump in your stereo before a session. Let me introduce your ears to the distinct and powerful sound of Portland hip-hop artist, Sapient. A musical prodigy and lyrical genius, Sapient constantly delivers an audible epiphany to his listeners as he opens eyes and minds to sounds and ideas that mix genres and defy the mediocrity of the mainstream. Sapient: The Artist Sapient is an established hip-hop artist, as both a producer and a member of northwest heavies Sandpeople. He is also in a group with Luckyiam of the Living Legends called The Prime, and has released multiple albums as Debaser with childhood friend Ethic. He has collaborated with rap superstars including Cage, Inspectah Deck (Wu-Tang), Eyedea, The Grouch, and Pigeon John, and produced for indie rap behemoths such as Aesop Rock, Slug (Atmosphere), Freestyle Fellowship, and many, many more. Sapient: The Man Known as Marcus Williams Raised by a mother and father who played violin and guitar, respectively, Marcus Williams fell in love with music at an extremely early age. The name Sapient was first seen in Krylon lights on the streets of his hometown of Portland, Oregon. Facing grafitti charges at 18, he decided to concentrate on music as a means to spread his name. What began with self-manufactured CDs passed to friends in high school quickly became his livelihood. By 21, he was able to quit his day job and pay his bills selling beats and mixing tracks for his crew. At 26, Sapient supports his wife and child, stress eating away his stomach lining as he spends his day producing beats, writing songs and reading business journals to figure out how to better promote himself.
Sapient: The Sound While others his age dealt with acne and prom, Sapient, a musical orphan, taught himself guitar before his fingers could reach all the chords. With no musical mentor, he later learned the ropes with samplers and synths, and as of yet, there is no father to his style. As a producer, Sapient is known for his uncanny consistency, musical understanding and blending of different media. Proficient in live instrumentation, sampling, and synth programming, his beats are individual stories constantly unraveling, evoking the joy of the unpredictable. As an emcee, Sapient brings an original tongue-in-cheek overtone to his writing that can take the edge off of serious subjects and bring a relaxed air of confidence to his smack-talking. Sapient: Long Tailed Dragon A rising indie star in the age of major label apocalypse, Sapient pours fuel on the fire by providing his fans with basement-made free music thatâ€™s better than 98% of the crapola flooding the free market. His massive yearly output of thought-provoking solo projects, genre defying collaborations and dope instrumentals keep his fanbase jocking his music yearround. While other artists put out an album every few years, Sapient is constantly working on providing his fans with something new. Get your free albums at Sapientkills.com. Videos: My Grind is Tech: http://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=VyQzMfxqeFc
ph: Arian Stevens, arianstevens.com
TO FOLLOW SAPIENT AND HIS MUSIC GO TO: http://www.sapientkills.com/
The New York - New Jersey Connection By: Bob Baldwin
When New York (NY) and New Jersey (NJ)
come to mind, people naturally associate anything from Jay-Z, the Yankees, to Jersey Shore. Rarely do they recognize the region for its surf; which is sort of ironic because when it comes to finding quality surf New York and New Jersey have one of the most perfect setups. With Long Island facing south and New Jersey facing east, the two states only a couple hours apart, motivated New York and New Jersey bodyboarders have plenty of options when it comes to scoring good waves. Of course, as anyone from the region can attest, it requires a little luck and a lot of patience and dedication. In New York and New Jersey, flat spells are measured in weeks, so patience is definitely a virtue. Everyone keeps a constant eye on the conditions and must be ready to drop everything at a moment’s notice because sometimes the best conditions may be hours away. Not only that, New York and New Jersey gets pretty damn cold in the winter: Sub-zero wind chills, three feet of snow covering the beach, and full on ice chunks floating through the line-up. Nonetheless, the surf can be world class, and like the saying goes, “there’s truly no place like home.” Over the years, New York and New Jersey bodyboarders have developed a strong camaraderie. The camaraderie has encouraged more to get in the water on a bodyboard. It has also inspired the up and coming talent, who are serious about the sport, because of the healthy doses of competition amongst different crews. So be on the lookout for talent sparking from the New York and New Jersey connection.
PH: EVAN CONWAY / REDDAWNPRODUCTIONS.NET
Welcome to New York By: Bob Baldwin
New York truly is the American melting pot, not only in
terms of its people but its landscape. From farmlands and mountains up north, the hustle at the heart of the world’s business capital in NYC, the suburbs and white sandy beaches of Long Island, and out past the vineyards to the rocky coastline as you reach “The End” and the lighthouse in Montauk, there is really is no shortage of things to do or see here when we are not chasing waves. That is a good thing, because while the waves can get quite good, it’s consistency that we lack. The New York Bodyboarding scene is an equally diverse bunch with a history of culture and talent dating back to the early 80s. In those days we were only a small, scattered group. But over the years the scene has grown and unified substantially in part to the efforts of NYBodyboarding.com (NYBB). The NYBB movement began over ten years ago as a way for local bodyboarders to network—a place to share story and media, develop camaraderie and a healthy dose of rivalry amongst crews. Growing up it was Eric and Randy Eichen, Jeremy Thornton, Pat and Andrew Norton, Jeff Winter, John Heyman, and a handful of others leading the way. Roy Botha actually used to shape boards here for his company called R & R Bodyboards. Over the years, many others have helped moved the NYBB scene forward both in and out of the water. The current generation of bodyboarders pushing the scene in and out of the water include a variety of talented guys and gals. Photographers Matt Clark, Jay Kubelle, Jay Vodopija, Evan Conway, Ashley Fava, Tom Connolly, Ian Greenberg, and John King are all dedicated to shooting and bleed bodyboarding. Other New York bodyboarders like Miguel Aguilar, Mike Andosca, Steve Austin, Alison Blanchette, Etan Blatt, Vince Bogan, Tommy Calca, Paul Caperna, Moacir Cunha, Jesse Destefano, John Guiliano, Shaun Kircher, Justin Lawson, Bob Masin, Kyle McGuire, Phil Parr, Brian Scopinich, Tim Seif, Tom Zaffuto are just as dedicated and always on it. It takes a lot out of these guys to plow through the flat spells and cold winters in search for surf, but that’s New York bodyboarding.
BOB BALDWIN / PH: MATT CLARK / CLARKOGRAPHY.COM
Welcome to New Jersey By: Rich Bean
New Jersey has an interesting cultural blend of surf and skate near the beaches, farmers and rednecks inland, and thick-accented, overly perfumed “guidos” to the north. These people all converge onto the twenty miles of New Jersey coastline Memorial Day through Labor Day. This time frame provides income to the beach communities and a raging party scene for anyone looking to distract themselves from the summer doldrums. Games of chance line the boardwalks with tourists voraciously sucking down greasy pizza and sugar coated funnel cakes. As the tourism season transitions after Labor Day, our beaches return, the smell of Aqua di Gio leaves the air. While bodyboarders reside throughout the coastal towns of New Jersey, there are two specific breaks that offer the ramping, hollow waves that excite bodyboarders and thereby producing some of the best talent from the East Coast. These breaks gave birth to professional bodyboarders Ty Torres, Seth Stafford, Chuck Guarino and Larry Mcginn. Ty and Seth led the way with Chuck and Larry quickly following. While they were making their yearly pilgrimage to Hawaii and traveling to exotic locales in search of perfect surf, a small core of riders began to develop, establishing the foundation of New Jersey’s bodyboarding scene today. The current crew consists of mostly prone riders like Chris Schlegel, Mike Murphy and Jason Bitzer. All three are well-seasoned professional bodyboarders that have traveled the globe. Following closely on their heels is Pat Perkins, John Mangini, the Tighe brothers, Graham Chapman and Ryan Marsh. All of them are from the same bodyboarding-talent rich areas as their predecessors. Like those before them, they have begun to seek out sponsorship deals, compete in USBA events and make the necessary journey to Hawaii and Mexico to hone their big-wave riding abilities. These are obviously not the only riders in New Jersey. There is a long list of underground riders, too many to mention, who continue to push each other and the next generation into the future.
CHRIS SCHLEGEL / PH: ANDREW HERCHAKOWSKI
EMPTY / PH: MATT CLARK / CLARKOGRAPHY.COM
RICKY MILLER / PH: EVAN CONWAY / REDDAWNPRODUCTIONS.NET
Photo: Jay ‘J-Bones’ Vodipija
Photo: Jon Alexander
AMAURY LAVERNHE / PH: JAMES DAWSON / DEASYDOESIT.COM
With the remarkable season Amaury Lavernhe is having on the IBA World Tour, Surge thought it necessary to catch up with the Reunion Islander to pick his brain for a second about home, life on tour, and the hopeful world title. Bonjour Amaury! Introduce yourself to Surge readers.
- So you are from Reunion Island. This place is not well known to those in the US, so tell people how it is for a bodyboarder?
Reunion is a small French island in the Indian Ocean. The water is warm all year and the swell is really consistent. We’ve got some good reef breaks, point breaks, and a few beachies. The west coast is the most popular for surfing but you could find some really good waves all around the island. Just be careful … some locals (bull sharks and tiger sharks) don’t like any people in their territory. Anyway, it’s such a nice island with all cultures, races and religion living in unity. - Being the only one on tour from Reunion Island, do you ever feel like you lack support from peers? Not really. I have some really good contact with all my mates all year and they follow at 100% ... but, yes, sometimes during some contest I feel a bit lost. - What is your fuel, your motivation every morning when you wake up? A good stretch, a big breaky and a sunny day.
- After finishing the 2009 IBA Tour in the top ten (sixth to be exact), did you go into the 2010 IBA Tour season with any sort of gut feeling that this could be your year?
Actually, I started the year with a top five goal. Really working on my mental preparation and try to be ready for this. After winning pipe I was thinking maybe a top 3 is possible and now I’m really focus on the first place. - Hopefully that question does not jinx you now. Despite the fact that PLC is your friend, do you ever sense some tension between you guys (free surfing and competition)? For sure, there is some tension. We are really good friend but we are competitors, too. Not only during contests, in life in general we are pretty competitive. For me it’s really good to surf with Pierre and improve my techniques. I think if today we are first and second in the ranking it’s really about our relationship. - Which IBA tour stop do you look most forward to surfing each year?
Pipeline and Chile. Always the best waves and for me they are the most important contest. - Lets say you came across a genie that could grant you three wishes. Which three wishes would you have him grant? I wish I could breathe under the water. I wish a perfect peace, unity and balance between all races, religions and cultures. I wish I could bodyboard all my life.
- Thanks for your time Moz! Would you like to add anything else?
Thanks to Surge bodyboarding and to Julien “speedy”! Thanks to all my sponsors to support me: Sniper, Kanabeach, NRJ mobile, EBB, Churchill. Just love what you do and do what you love!!!
For more information about Amaury, his sponsors, and any other related information, visit his website www.amaurybodyboarding.com
[ Matt Hamilton Update ] www.chewyham.com
On Sunday June 6th, Matt Hamilton suffered from a stroke while surfing in his Pro Dropknee semi final of the USBA Huntington Beach Event. He was pulled from the water and taken to Hoag Hospital. There he underwent a six and half hour surgery to clear the blood clot that had taken over the left side of his brain, which had left him completely paralyzed on that side. The removal of the clot was a success and Matt was moved to Hoag’s ICU department. Matt is being taken care of by the same doctor that performed surgery on Alternative Surf’s Ron Ziebell. In fact, Matt was oddly enough admitted to the same room as Ron. Needless to say he is in the most capable hands. Matt’s significant other Jessica Eldrige, has been by his side 24-7 to support and let him know that all his friends and family are there and praying for a quick recovery. Matt’s skill and love for the sport of bodyboarding will be highly missed while he begins to walk down his long road to recovery. Matt has been an incredible father ever since the birth of his son Cody and Jessica and her daughter Grace whom Matt calls his own daughter; they pray for any one and everyone who is listening to help in any way possible. With Matt in the hospital and out of work there is no means of income to pay for the rent on their Dana Point apartment. The registration on their vehicle has just expired and the car needs to be smog checked, in order to get the new tags so Jess can drive to and from the places she needs. Those are just a few examples of problems to be encountered (other than Matt’s obvious injury) that the Hamilton/ Eldrige family could use your grateful donations. Matt’s Mom
and Sister (Patty & Crystal) have been available to take care of Cody so that he doesn’t have to endure the germ-infested surroundings the hospital has to offer, for too long. It has only been three days since this unbelievable event begun and it has taken a hard toll on all that are close to Matt. I have known Matt and Jess for a long time and feel so grateful to know and be a part of their lives. That is why I have taken it upon myself …to ensure that the road to recovery is as smooth as possible for Matt and his family. With www.chewyham.com I will be able to communicate to all those that care and want to be a part of the action but can’t make it in person. I will post daily updates of his condition as well as his family’s. I encourage anyone and everyone to pray and to let the entire bodyboarding community know of Matt’s unfortunate event. Please feel free to leave comments, kind remarks, prayers, jokes, words of wisdom, or any thoughts you want to convey to Matt and his family. There is the Donate link at the top of the page for all those who are kind enough to share for Matt’s cause. I will be constantly monitoring all emails and donations to make sure everyone who shares their kindness is well acknowledged, appreciated, and thanked with the most sincerity possible. If you have any suggestions, comments, or add-ons for Matt’s web page please email me at the info provided under the contact link above. Thank you all so very much and cant wait for Matt’s full recovery day. BEST WISHES TO ALL, THANK YOU FOR THE SUPPORT! -Alex Gero
PRO RIDER JEREMY WRIGHT / PH: JEFF YUSA
Oahu is a good place to be a bodyboarder. From the power up north to the isolation out west, the localized reefs of the east side to the hustle of town, Oahu has all the mental surf one could ever desire. Right along the surf lays a contingent of Oahu bodyboarders dedicated to the progression of the sport. Jacob Makia VanderVelde is one such bodyboarder.
Straight out of central Oahu, Jacob is of half Dutch and Hawaiian-Chinese decent. His father Paul was born in Amsterdam and his mother Theresa (sister of Senator Daniel Akaka) is from Hawaii. His older brother, North Shore legend Kaiona Whitaker, caddied him into waves from a young age, so it’s no wonder Jacob surfs with so much style and power. It’s almost as if he’s from the old school era himself. He sits deep at Pipe and Backdoor and has a real knack for being in the right position all the time. Jacob is a busy man. Despite the responsibilities of work and raising his son and daughter alongside his fiancée Charee Urata, no one has been more dedicated to tracking down surf on Oahu than him. He’ll be on the north shore one day, west side the next, and the east side the day after, all at the crack of dawn. It paid off this season, too. He scored more than anyone else and has the photos to prove it. Jacob isn’t letting up anytime soon either. He trains at YMCA Leeward, runs everyday, eats healthy, works and surfs hard, and caters to his family like they are everything. With winter right around the corner, expect nothing less from Jacob this 2010/2011 season. You were on a mission this past 2009/2010 winter season. What was your inspiration? Getting bus size barrels and huge air. Commit to pushing limits and taking my skills to extreme levels. The ultimate natural high ever! You must train choke (a lot) to be in shape to surf out in the North Shore as much and as hard as you do. What does your work out regimen consist of? Stretching followed by 30-50 minutes of cardio and 25 minutes of weights. Switching it up sometimes with weights first and a 10-minute cardio cool down. I work out about four to five times a week. I always do cardio sessions. I run four to five miles. Light weights and swim laps. I also like hiking. If the waves are good, I boogie all day. When did you start going to the North Shore? Since I was seven years old. Empty lineups.
PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON
Definitely, a lot different than it is now. It seems the vibe has changed a lot as well. In your mind, what are the most significant changes you’ve seen? Back then we worked our way to the peak and earned our waves. Now you got guys straight off the plane going to the peak. Just because they’re friends with someone. Back then it didn’t matter … you earned your waves. And if you blew any good waves they would bar you. So for the younger guys—respect and earn your way up. You will get a lot more respect that way. Who did you surf with growing up? Brother Kaiona Whitaker, Sean Waddell, Joey V., Dean Marzol, Tarin Rosa, Tony Boy Tarpley, Chris Won, AJ Arecchi and crew, Fred Booth, Ronk, Jarret Lau and many others. Hooo! The old school guys. How have they influenced your approach on bodyboarding, especially the North Shore? Back then it was all about making a name for yourself up north (Pipe, Backdoor, OTW) and still is. If you made a name for yourself up north you were the real deal. You were known worldwide. The waves up north speak for themselves. No doubt. Do you have any death defying experience from up north that you’d like to share? I think it was winter ‘99 and Pipe was firing. I was getting mental slabs. I noticed the swell was on the rise quick. I was sitting deep waiting for that west bender and noticed third reef sets cracking. Next thing I know this north angled second reef bomb cracks in front of me and I duck dove … and made it okay. But then I was in the impact zone. The next set broke and caught me big time. Got flipped about ten times and didn’t even know which way was up. Both fins got swept off. Leash snapped. Then I finally surfaced on my last breath of air. Then there was another set that worked me just as hard. Honestly, I don’t know how I surfaced from that one. I got washed all the way to Pupukea. All in all I was exhausted and grateful. That’s heavy! So which companies are backing you these days? Custom X and Kicks. What kind of board or template are you riding now? Right now I’m riding the 42-inch bat tail CX Hawaii Board model. Great shape with loads of speed. Loving it. Who shapes your boards? Pete “PMA” Anaya is da man! Yeah, Pete is a wizard when it comes to shaping boards.
PH: BRYAN PEZMAN / PEZPIX.COM
PH: JORDAN STALLARD / JORDANSTALLARD.COM
With summer in full effect, where have you been surfing? Been keeping busy at Half Point. One of the worst summers so far for us. Waiting for a good size swell to boogie other zones. Speaking of Half Point, you’ve been judging the USBA tour the past couple years. What’s your take on competition? There’s a lot of great talent coming up and ripping hard. But proving yourself up north is what stamps your name in Hawaii. Jason Bitzer is doing a great job with the U.S. tour. What are your goals in the sport for the future? Promote our sport to put it where it should be. Bodyboarding is an extreme sport and deserves a brighter future for our next generation. Bodyboarding should be in the X Games and even the Olympics one day. So if we keep pushing limits we will get there. Anything else you want to say or let people know? Keep focused on your goals in life. Don’t let life past you by. Live it up to the fullest.
MITCH RAWLINS / PH: NEAL MIYAKE / HISURFADVISORY.COM
[ Country ] By: Surge
Why the North Shore? Lets be honest, there really isn’t anything original to say about the North Shore. It’s crowded, it’s expensive, the locals are aggressive … blah, blah, blah. It’s all so predictable. But then again, North Shore articles are extremely limiting. It’s only a seven-mile stretch of shoreline and people have been surfing it for decades. So how much more spectacular could this season have been from those of the past? Most likely not by much. Then there are those articles that overly exaggerate North Shore seasons. They probably claimed this season to have been the one. Something to the effect that “El Nino ferociously spilled all his toddler guts!” Sounds accurate, right? It was an El Nino winter … but it seems like they say that every year. Regardless of it all, the North Shore is a phenomenon. It is the “seven mile miracle.” It is bodyboarding’s version of Mecca. That’s not going to change anytime soon either. Bodyboarders will always feign to ride Pipeline. Not because there aren’t equal waves in the world, but because Pipeline is the gateway to the sport. Nothing is more cherished than gaining her majesty’s approval. That’s why bodyboarders revere the North Shore more than anywhere else. That’s why North Shore articles are pieced together each year.
JESSE KING / PH: CLARK LITTLE / CLARKLITTLEPHOTOGRAPHY.COM
[ The Season ] This season was unique because it was abnormally consistent, but not all the swells were optimal for the North Shore. A lot of swells were too big or the angles were off. On the other hand, a lot of the swells complimented the outer islands. Gems that normally require the earth, moon, and stars to align, were experiencing streaks of fortune at their finest. Nonetheless, when the North Shore was on, it was on. The season had an early start with an abnormally perfect Pipe swell in late September. The swell was one for the books. Almost too good to be true. The sand was favorably situated for some reason and everyone was hairing out because of the long summer. So it was an open harvest for those that brought their cojones with them to Ehukai Beach Park. Kalani Kamaka (Oahu) and Nakana Rivera (Hawaii) were two such souls, braving the meatiest of bombs while everyone else looked like they were trying not to drown.
NAKANA RIVERA / PH: BRYAN PEZMAN / PEZPIX.COM
[ Locals ] Over the years it seems that the media has lost touch of the local, underground talent. Maybe it’s because the sport’s industry in America has struggled over the past years. Maybe it’s not. Either way, the North Shore is more than just the surf porn people see in magazines. The North Shore is country, and for many locals the country is home. They live and breath for summer to vanish and fall to swing in. They charge the country rain or shine, paparazzi or not. These are the true, forgotten heroes in the sport today.
JEFF HUBBARD / PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON
After that September swell, things really didn’t start to pick up until Halloween. Pipe was back to her vicious self, pissed off and out for vengance as usual. During the Halloween swell, Dan Dorn (California) took one of the most hectic airdrops on one he probably shouldn’t have. He swan dove as the wave threw over him. Meanwhile, the photogs snapped frames of it, which have filtered through the internet. Soon after this swell the whole standup world flooded for the contests, crowding up every niche of the North Shore. It’s always a sad day to see the already crowded North Shore get even more crowded with photo hungry standup whores from all over the world. Despite the discouragement, there are always some empty corners and sessions to be found for the wise and patient. Hint is to head the opposite direction of where the contest herds go. Not only that, though, because local people still have plenty of spots to seek refuge. There were some notable days in November and, of course, the Eddie swell early December. The Eddie swell reeked havoc on the beaches, literally shifting tons of sand and hauling lifeguard towers into the Pacific. Similar sized swells then traced the Eddie through the holiday season into 2010. Meanwhile, Guilherme Tamega (Brazil) scored what many consider the wave of the winter on a second reefer at Pipe, which he considers one of the top five waves of his life. In addition, Derek Miyashiro looked like he should have died on a Pipe double-up resembling an avalanche … but lived.
SPENCER SKIPPER / PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON
[ Respect ] Every year the bodyboarding and surfing worlds flood into the hostels and rentals along the North Shore. The crowds are inevitable … out of control. The type where it’s hard to paddle around without bumping into people let alone catch waves. At times it can be discouraging, but more importantly it’s dangerous. That’s why it’s important to know one’s place in Hawaiian waters. Unlike some places, there actually are pecking orders. People have been putting in hours, days, years, and even generations into spots. With that comes disparity, which is not exactly a bad thing. For example, someone could be rushing any bomb he desires out at Shipsterns on Friday and only manage to snag some dribble out at Pipe on Monday. Seems like injustice but it’s not. It’s order. It’s just the way it is.
PLC / PH: BRYAN PEZMAN / PEZPIX.COM
As the bodyboarding world poured in January and February, a gigantic, steep west swell battered the islands. This was the same day Pierre Costes (France) almost met his maker as he straightened out on a Pipe beast. He barely outraced the lip but the detonation caught up with him. Luckily, no real harm done. As this swell fizzled out, the Turbo Pipeline Pro waiting period began. While the contest has seen better years, this events definitely brought some juice on the last day. Everyone was going for broke and hitting backdoor sections that would have been taboo only a decade ago. Amaury Lavernhe (Reunion islands) eventually took the crown. Despite swell momentum up to this point, the season went to bed early. Conditions turned for worse as soon as the competition tents were torn down. Proceeding swells were met with devil winds out of the north. While this opens up options on other sides and islands, little by little, the North Shore emptied out its visitors and all that was left were the locals and stragglers. This opened up the beaches for rare days that turned on during spring and early summer. Although the late season wasnâ€™t any to remember, there is always the expectation of next season and all the possibilities it may hold.
MARK KLEIN / PH: BRYAN PEZMAN / PEZPIX.COM
SACHA SPECKER / PH: BRYAN PEZMAN / PEZPIX.COM
MARK BALASBAS / PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON
MITCH RAWLINS / PH: BRYAN PEZMAN / PEZPIX.COM
HAPPY ZUROWSKI / PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON
CHASE JOHNSON / PH: NICOLA LUGO / NICOLALUGO.COM
MICHAEL NOVY / PH: BRYAN PEZMAN / PEZPIX.COM
TIMMY HAMILTON / PH: NICOLA LUGO / NICOLALUGO.COM
Hau’ula Bloodline by Micah McMullin
On the northeast shore of Oahu lies a Hawaiian town with
a lower population than most high schools. So small that if you’re not paying attention on Kam Highway, you might blink and accidentally drive by it. Despite that, though, Hau’ula is deserving of your attention. Not because it’s a thriving business center or anything. On the contrary, there isn’t even a gas station and there are only a couple stores—7Eleven being one. Hau’ula is deserving of your attention because it holds a reputation for pumping out heavy hitting, respectable watermen generation after generation. William “Braddah Wills” Ka’ai hails from Hau’ula with pride. Raised on the protected reefs of the east side, he honed his skills on the knee. Alongside other dedicated bodyboarders like Micah McMullin, Asa Aquino, Johnny Ae’a, Zach dela Cruz, and others, he formed a bodyboarding crew back in high school known as Under Pressure. According to William, Under Pressure’s way of life is to “hold it down, hold your ground, pushing your limits, going big and letting everything on the table without crackin’ under pressure.” Such is the epitome of William as a dropkneer, a father, and a Hau’ula boy. MM: What you been up to? WK: I’ve been working for a while at Turtle Bay golf course as a maintenance man. Since I’ve been working, I hardly get a chance to jump in the water. Yet I work by a really sick secret spot that sometimes tempts me to wanna jump in and surf while on the clock. Besides that I’ve also been tending to my two daughters Emajen (Imagine) and Otion (Ocean) as much as I can. They’re really my inspiration for what I do. Besides that, B.Boarding and Ink is my way of life. MM: Ink … so how’s the tattoo business treating you? WK: Been dropping ink for about four years now, and the pieces have been really sick. Since I’ve been juggling work at Turtle Bay with family, my time is sparce at times. But ehh, anybody got ideas, no be scade (scared) … ask me. Just say, “Braddah Willz, I need ink!” MM: Why dropknee and not surf? WK: Hah! Are you serous? Cuz’ dropknee is a sick style while riding a wave. Style is what wave riding is about, and dropknee looks fucking sick! Snaps, floaters, airs, and especially barrels. Airs and surfin’ without skegs. Three words, DK4LIFE.
MM: Who are the guys holding it down? WK: I’m a have to go with the Off The Wall O’hana: J-5, Asa, Micah, Uncle Jay, young boy Josh, Nakana, Shannon, Kaleo, Brandon, Mark, Romeros, Derek, Leslie, Colin and muck. Man, I know a lot. So if I missed you, “brah, I sorry.” But my all time favorite dropkneers are Roach, Raffi, and Lackey is fuckin’ sick. MM: Any up and coming rippers you’d like to mention? WK: There’s a couple, but, shoots, I dunno’ their names. I just see young rippahs going big and I acknowledge them when they’re rippin’ under pressure. So if you pull in and come out clean, and I’m in the right spot and see it, look me dead in my eyes and yell: “Fuck yeah! Braddah Wills seen that. Fuckin’ what?” At that time I’m gonna look at you dead in your eyes and yell, “ Whoooooooooooo careeeeeeeees!! Nah ... just jokes. Keep going, don’t let this sport die cuz I not. MM: Anything else? WK: One last thing before I go make doots, thanks to our heavenly father, my chick Melody for video tapping on those crappy days, my boys Pez and Maurice for the pics, Uncle Jay for feeding us. Last but not least, Hau’ula for raising such a sick bloodline … Hauula Boooooys! Shoots e-zay!
WILLIAM KA’AI / PH: BRYAN PEZMAN / PEZPIX.COM
DA HAMMAH “MICAH MCMULLIN” / PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON
Drop-knee and Photography by Greg Tindall
When you grow up within eyeshot of Manhattan, it’s easy to be
drawn to the enormity of all that one of the greatest cities in the world has to offer. It is the center of finance. It is the center of theater. It is the center of fashion. It is the center of many things. But for at least one Coney Island kid, it wasn’t even close to the center of his attention. Nicola Lugo would face the other way and watch with wonder for hours upon hours at the waves. The way they broke. The way they shone. The differences in pitch. The various textures. As impressive and fantastic as Manhattan was supposed to be, the city couldn’t compete with the majesty of the ocean. Now that Nicola has traveled the globe several times over, he admits, “well, it is Coney Island, not exactly the most beautiful beach I’ve ever seen, but it is home to my original stoke.” After all, it doesn’t matter where you first got hooked on surfing, just that you stay stoked on it. Nicola continues to explain, “for me, the only way to keep feeding that feeling is through photography and dropknee. There’s nothing like lining up with another surfer in the water, when the water’s a crisp blue and the morning sun is coming into the tube and photographing all that [coming together]... Well there nothing like that except, drop-kneeing a solid eight footer in Mexico and knowing that if I push too hard on the corner of the tail, the board will slip out, or not hard enough and the lip will end it. That balance. That’s it. It’s the same thing if you think about it. Putting it all together for a great shot, or threading that line going drop-knee, it’s the same thing and it stokes me when I pull it off.” Lugo maintains that he’d be an entirely different photographer if he surfed any other style. Being dialed in drop-knee forces you to synchronize with the wave. When you only have one flipper dragging and the other on the front rail, the margin of error is too thin to take any of the subtleties of the wave for granted. The slightest warble or misread hiccup in the wave and it’s over. Same deal with photography: you lose track of where you are relative to the sun, or you lose sight of the sand being churned up in a rip, and the shot is blown. “Drop-knee and photography, dude... that’s my gig.”
NICOLA LUGO / PH: EDDIE OLMEDA
CALI DK LEGEND “ROACH” / PH: MANNY VARGAS / MANNYVPHOTO.COM
Isolation Breeds Uniqueness – The Cale Moore Interview By: Nick Statom / Rookiesusa.com Ph: Chris Burkard / Burkardphoto.com
Hailing from Los Osos, California, Cale was always on the other
end of the SLO county bodyboarding spectrum. His cool, calm, and collected demeanor represented a stark contrast from the rather loud, obnoxious, and vulgar Pismo spongers to the south. An isolated bodyboarder living in a small, standup-dominated community, Cale not only acted differently but also rode waves differently than his south county counterparts. To keep up with the fast and hollow reefs that abound in his neck of the woods, and to evade the scrutiny of the hardened locals, Cale took notes from the areas’ fiberheads that he often shared the lineup with. Thus his dropknee approach evolved through the years into a case study on pure, down the line speed. The cruisy, lazy dk stance that overruns most friendly Cali beachies won’t fly here. Pumping down the line with a narrow stance and a poised forward lean, Cale has earned every inch of open face real estate that he’s carved up after years of honing his skills in his own backyard. Cale, let the readers familiarize themselves with you – age, residence, and how you started on the boog? I’m 25 years old. I was born in Huntington Beach before moving to Los Osos when I was a baby. My Parents were your average southern California beach bums, so they naturally raised me and my three brothers at the beach. I got my first Toobs Bodyboard in 1988, when I was four and have been loving it ever since. How was it growing up in the small community of Los Osos? How strong was the standup influence and how did it affect your style of riding? Growing up in Los Osos was probably the same as growing up in any small town; you had to make your own fun. Luckily for me there were a handful of surf spots a short distance away and I had an older brother to drive me to them. The catch about the surf spots in my backyard was that they were dominated by standup surfers who had a hard time wrapping their mind around why anyone would want to ride a bodyboard. The only reason that I didn’t start riding a surfboard was because my older brother Ryan rode a bodyboard. Other than Ryan and Marcos from Toobs, there were very few bodyboarders that I consistently rode waves with. Because of this, I had no option other than watching how the local surfers rode waves, so I took from them what I could apply to dropknee. Plain and simple you put some of the most miles on your rig of anyone that I know while searching out spots. This can bring about great rewards but even greater frustrations. Generally speaking what is it like living on the Central Coast as a bodyboarder and what are your favorite and least favorite times of the year along this length of coastline? Since I first got my driver’s license I had an obsession with finding good waves and an empty line-up. I would hear stories about perfect waves to the north but was never given directions. This led to trying to scour every inch of coastline from Ragged Point to my hometown in all types of conditions. It took a long time to figure out where the legitimate spots were. This stretch of coastline could be the most frustrating place in the world because even when the reports are good it will still spite you half the time. On the other hand, when everything comes together, the line-ups are empty and it all becomes worTH while. It seems that there are only a few months out of the year that produce good waves along the Central Coast. In the spring I’ll spend more time doing other hobbies away from the ocean, due to relentless onshore winds and
upwelling that make bad waves extra cold and miserable. The summer brings fog that makes me lose my mind. In fall and winter I try to work less so I can be on it when it’s good. Being a bodyboarder along the Central Coast is great as long as you have other interests when the waves are bad. In the summer of 2007 you finally got a proper Pismo introduction down in mainland Mexico. Did it go as you might have expected or did your perception change regarding either Pismo or Mexico? Before meeting up with that group in Mexico (for my first real surf trip), I already knew that they were pretty much fearless in the water, so I had to prepare myself to step it up. What I didn’t know was what can happen when the waves are flat. They really opened my eyes as to what was possible on the dance floor and how much tequila could be consumed in a week. My perception changed on both Mexico and Pismo, and it was a life changing trip. You juggle jobs for the Morro Bay Harbor Patrol, as a Morro Bay lifeguard supervisor, and as a commercial fisherman. You ever see any crazy shit while on the job? How do you find the time to surf? I really just can’t get enough of the ocean. As far as crazy shit I have seen a car crash and a boat crash on the same beach. My line of work has shown me how stupid some people can be. I’ve been commercial fishing with my dad since I can remember. Working in such an uncontrolled environment makes every trip seem crazy. I have seen many sea creatures. Like many people with the surf bug, you know you need to have a flexible schedule to get the waves at their best. The only time I work full time is in the summer lifeguarding. Even then I try to have a backup just in case the waves are too good to miss. The reality of a full time job is getting closer and I’ll have to take what I can get for waves then, but that also means more money for planned surf trips. How long were you in Nicaragua last summer and how did the waves there suit dropknee? Besides the waves, what was your favorite part about Nicaragua? I was in Nicaragua for just over 2 weeks last fall. I was planning to go to Mexico but due to some issues renting a car I decided to try something new. I didn’t know much about Nicaragua at the time, only that you could post up in one place and have easy access to multiple waves. The waves were small most of the trip, but when the swell picked up it was a dropknee wonderland with perfectly groomed head high waves. You could walk one way and get bowly lefts or go the other and have a perfect right sandbar all to yourself. Even though there were scorpions and wasps inhabiting my room and a random sketchy guy with a sawed off shotgun nearby, I really enjoyed how people lived there. The locals still used Ox driven carts and rode around on horses. It was kinda like the wild west. Even with the flat spells I thought it was paradise and will definitely go back one day. You have been sending us some sick photos lately both in front of and behind the lens. How did you become involved with photography and where do you plan to take it? What other non-surfing activities are you interested in? I bought my first camera (a Canon Rebel XT) about five years ago because I thought it would be a good hobby, and I always found myself in situations where I wish I had a camera. Since then I taught myself how to use my camera, figuring it out as I went. I bought a Buzztech water housing that I have been experimenting with and I am stoked on some off the pictures that I took. I recently started making frames out of plywood and am planning on making a collection of my best pictures so I can do an art show or something. Other than bodyboarding and shooting photos I also skateboard a lot in the spring and ride my longboard and hike in the summer. Any future trips in the works? What are your plans for the next couple years? With bad waves and cold water most of the year I am always planning on shedding my wetsuit and getting some warm water barrels. Kellen Keene and I have some plans in the works by the name of Project X, it involves purchased land in a foreign country and a real long drive in my old pick-up. I have also been building an 18’ Boston Whaler hull from the deck up so I’ll have a nice boat to get to all the places that are inaccessible from land. As far as the next few years go, I plan on kicking around on my boogie and living happily.
MARCUS RODRIGUES AND HIS EPIC DK LEGEND POSTER / PH: BJ YEAGER / BLYSSPERSPECTIVES.COM
MARCUS RODRIGUES FLOATING / PH: MIKE NEAL / WWW.MNEAL.NET
WILLIAM “CHUCKY” FALLAS VARELA / PH: NICOLA LUGO / NICOLALUGO.COM
BRANDON FOSTER / PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON
SACHA SPECKER / PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON
DEREK MIYASHIRO / PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON
JJ AYALA / PH:NICOLA LUGO / NICOLALUGO.COM
LEROY KAIWI “DA LANDLORD” NUF SAID / PH: DOOMAPHOTOS / FACEBOOK.COM/DOOMAPHOTOS
ADAM DUMAS / PH: CARLOS SANTANA / SHRED4EVER.BLOGSPOT.COM
BRANDON CLARK / PH: MATT VAUGHN
KIM FEAST / PH: CONAN WHITEHOUSE / CONANWHITEHOUSE.BLOGSPOT.COM
DK LEGEND AKA LYMAN “SNAPPIN” / PH: ANDREW RAMS
PH:NICOLA LUGO / NICOLALUGO.COM
JOSE MARQUINEA / PH: ANDREW CHISHOLM / ANDYCHIZ.COM
JACOB ROMERO / PH: MIKE NEAL / WWW.MNEAL.NET
IAN MCCAULLEY / PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON
MITCH RAWLINS INVERT! / PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON
ADAM BICE / PH: DANE GRADY / DANEGRADY.COM
CHRIS BRANSCOMBE / PH: JEREMY PHILLIPS / JEREMYPHILLIPSPHOTOGRAPHY.COM
CHUCK WHITE / PH: JON ALEXANDER / JON-ALEXANDER.COM
JEFF HUBBARD / PH: MIKE NEAL / WWW.MNEAL.NET
JERRETT LAU / PH: BRYAN PEZMAN / PEZPIX.COM
JESSE KING / PH: CLARK LITTLE / CLARKLITTLEPHOTOGRAPHY.COM
MIKE MURPHY / PH: BRYAN PEZMAN / PEZPIX.COM
MILTON MONTALVO / PH: GABRIEL PADIAL / DRDPIX.COM
SAM LENNOX / PH: ANDREW CHISHOLM / ANDYCHIZ.COM
JOSHUA SHELLY BURNING OUT OF ONE SOMEWHERE IN LA COUNTY / PH: CHRIS ALLEN / ALLEN-PHOTOS.COM
No More Myths By: Jeremy Phillips Ph: Chris Allen / Allen-photos.com
Until this past winter I thought El Niño on the
West Coast was just a myth. Since moving to Los Angeles from Hawaii nine years ago, I have constantly been bombarded by rumors of El Niño being in the works for each up coming season. Then as each season crept in, like clockwork, El Niño seemed to hide in his little crib. One season it got so bad that I was using up full tanks of gas searching Orange County and San Diego for surf rather than pull into sewer water closeouts down the street from my house. Of course, this season proved to be different. The standard rumors about El Niño began last June, which was nothing out of the ordinary. Then after the south swell of July, hype spread quicker than a California wildfire. Hype, though, is much different than the real thing. As fall brought nothing but a flat spell, hype met disappointment. The little guy, El Niño, seemed to be taking a siesta for another year ... again. Then in November a decent NW swell interrupted the bleak West Coast. This swell was followed by another, and another, and so on. Just like that, the little guy was finally here. El Niño kept throwing tantrums through the holiday months well into 2010. Sand was being pushed around by rain and swell, transforming ordinary beach break closeouts into angry, mutant sandbars. Reefs that only turn on a handful of times a year were blazing for weeks on end. Summer time spots were breaking in the dead of winter. It was nothing short of a phenomenon. Some old timers I spoke with claimed this winter was better than that of 1998 and on par if not better than that of 1983. Whether that is true or not, I do not know. One thing I can attest to is that El Niño is no myth, and that it was an amazing winter and a good time to be on the West Coast. Now hopefully he does not wait another decade to slip out of his crib.
Twelve Years Later By: Sundaran Gillespie Ph: Adam Warmington / Adamwarmington.com
Growing up as a kid in Santa Cruz, the term El
Niño held a lot of weight behind it. Twelve years I waited patiently for a winter like this. The year I was born, Santa Cruz was slaughtered by the 82/83 El Nino. Sections of our town were three feet underwater for days on end. Both of the major piers in town lost significant amounts of pilings, and the massive grounded cement ship on the southside of town split in half under the relentless swells. To put it in perspective, when our rivers blow out from El Niño, the redwoods in the hills snap like matches as the water pours into the sea. Our last big year was 1998. That year we saw waves like nothing in my lifetime. For months on end Northern California was battered with massive swells and torrential down pours. On October 2nd Mavericks erupted with one of the biggest swells I have seen to date. Oct 2nd!?! Sure, there have been single swells here and there that might have been bigger, but in terms of a full winter of waves, ‘98 takes the cake. So after twelve years of false hopes, failed weather patterns, and an onslaught of La Niña conditions spanning near half the length of my life, we finally had a winter to write elsewhere about. In regards to the amount of solid swell we had this winter over months of time, this year held its ground. We had pulses coming into Northern California constantly, and if you knew where the winds would hold it, you would consider this a season to remember. I scored my first solid NW swell in September and my last one in April. All in all, the 2009/2010 El Niño made Northern California a great place to call home.
SUNDARAN GILLESPIE / PH: ADAM WARMINGTON / ADAMWARMINGTON.COM
One of Those Days By: Jeremy Phillips Ph: Jeremy Phillips / Jeremyphillipsphotography.com
January 08, 2010 was the single best day of surf I have
ever seen in California. A solid NW was in town and it was freakishly glassy. The kind of glassy where you cannot really judge the incoming sets because they are so oily smooth. The sun was out and the only contrast in the perfect blue skies was the contrails left by flights leaving LAX. It was, without a doubt, a perfect set up. I linked up in the parking lot with local dropknee wizard Bobby Kithcart, whom I have known since he was a micro-grom surfing Manhattan Pier. It was on. The surf was perfect with eight to ten foot lefts pealing from outside the jetty to the inside sandbar. I then frantically assembled my housing. As Bob and I walked along the beach to the spot, we started realizing what we were about to experience. Not a single person in sight besides the hardcore bicyclists riding along the boardwalk. I started getting bubble guts a bit because this was probably the biggest I had ever attempted to shoot water. Not only that but I was passing on surfing it myself to shoot photographs, so this session was a turning point for me on so many levels. I could tell this swell had an attitude the moment my Vipers touched the water. Rarely in Southern California can you feel so much energy in the water. The fifty plus yard swim out to this spot is not easy by any means. The inside sandbar and cross current pulling you towards the jetty really kicks your ass. While swimming out, I could not help but let out the first of many hoots as waves raced through, turning inside out on themselves, foam balling and spitting. My voice was raspy by the end of the day. The three of us then spent the next three hours alone in this little fantasy before the wind came on it at about one in the afternoon. Because I was in the impact zone the whole time, I witnessed some of the best DK charging I had ever seen in California. Kithcart was dropping in on bombs and getting kegs you would have had to see to believe. The backlit images from this session still stoke me out. It was just one of those days.
BOBBY KITHCART / PH: JEREMY PHILLIPS / JEREMYPHILLIPSPHOTOGRAPHY.COM
PH: BRYAN PEZMAN / PEZPIX.COM
RYLEY COLLE / PH: ALEX VERHARST / VERHARSTPHOTOGRAPHY.BLOGSPOT.COM
PH: CHRIS ALLEN / ALLEN-PHOTOS.COM
PH: BRYAN PEZMAN / PEZPIX.COM
PH: CHRIS ALLEN / ALLEN-PHOTOS.COM PH: RON “RON DOG” ZIEBELL
PH: GREG NIELSEN
JOE GRODZEN “HANG TIME” / PH: RON “RON DOG” ZIEBELL / ALTERNATIVESURF.COM
WLADIMIR BOBOSICK / PH: CHRIS ALLEN / ALLEN-PHOTOS.COM
PH: CHRIS ALLEN / ALLEN-PHOTOS.COM
JOHN “BEANS” PORZUCZEK / PH: BRYAN PEZMAN / PEZPIX.COM
EVAN FA / PH: ALESSANDRO MASCIOTTI / ALESSGOBIG.BLOGSPOT.COM
CHRIS WON TALOA / PH: JOSHUA SHELLY / A-FRAMEMAG.COM
PH: BRYAN PEZMAN / PEZPIX.COM
JACOB REEVE / PH: CHRIS ALLEN / ALLEN-PHOTOS.COM PH: BRYAN PEZMAN / PEZPIX.COM
PH: RON ZIEBELL / ALTERNATIVESURF.COM
MATTY MEYER / PH: CHRIS ALLEN / ALLEN-PHOTOS.COM
CITY OF ANGELS / PH: JEFF YUSA / YUSAPHOTO.COM
Photo: Bryan Pezman
Photo: Adam Warmington
Photo: Bryan Pezman
Photo: Bryan Pezman
Photo: Bryan Pezman
Photo: Bryan Pezman
Photo: Bryan Pezman
Photo: David Baker
[ROF II PREMIERE] By: Bryan Pezman
This June saw the release of the long anticipated Ring Of Fire II, the second bodyboard film by Robert Isambert. The premiere, a double showing in San Clemente, CA was one for the ages. Seeing over 500 attendees between both premieres was a great showing for the bodyboard scene. Also in town attending the premiere were some of the best bodyboarders in the USBA. Jacob Romero, Glen Sullivan, Dave Hubbard, Jeremy Wright, Micah McMullin just to name a few were in attendance. There was also a premiere on the East Coast and a planned premiere in Australia later this summer. Mr. Isambert is already on the road again as well chronicling the next adventure in the Ring Of Fire series and hopes to launch more overseas premieres as he travels this fall and winter. The movie can be purchased through the following retailers: (click on a retailer below to buy ROF II now) EbodyBoarding.com AlternativeSurf.com TheFoamCo.com The film, which was three years in the making, chronicles the hunt for the heaviest and best surf across the Pacific. The movie follows riders John â€œBeansâ€? Porzuczek, Matt Meyers, Mike LaPierre, as they searched for the best wedgers and barrels to be found in places like Mexico, Hawaii, the South Pacific and Indonesia. Thanks to everyone for showing up and making a world class premiere that evening, it was one for the ages.
PHOTOS BY: BRYAN PEZMAN / PEZPIX.COM
USBA CONTEST NEWS Tour: The Body Gove USBA National Bodyboard Tour Event: The Sport Chalet US Open of Bodyboarding Location: Huntington Beach Pier, Huntington Beach, California Dates: 4th-6th of June Sponsors: Sport Chalet, Body Glove, Ocean Current, Hawaiian Tropic, and Churchill
event for the contest goers to watch. The awards for The 2010 Sport Chalet US Open of Bodyboarding had an amazing show of support by the Huntington Beach Patrons. The USBA announced its contest winners: Jacob RomeroMen’s Pro, Karla Costa Taylor- Women’s Pro Champ, Trevor KamOpen Amateur Champ, JB Hillen- 13-18 Amateur Champ, and David Hubbard- Drop Knee Pro Champ. Results Men’s Pro 1. Jacob Romero 2. Jeff Hubbard 3. David Hubbard 4. David Phillips Women’s Pro 1. Karla Costa Taylor 2. Tara Parsons 3. Vicki Reale 4. Claudia Ferrari
A beautiful final day for Bodyboarding went down on last day of The US Open of Bodyboarding in Huntington Beach. The sun greeted the event with a south swell pulsing three to four foot waves through the pier. Competition began with multiple heats for the 13-18 semi finals and final. Trevor Kam, JB Hillen, Shawbaz Soaia, and Rocket Klein showed fierce competitiveness in the water. As for the Open Amateur semis and final, standouts were Trevor Kam, Jesse Walsh, Rocket Klein, and Hunter Fedden. The Drop-Knee semis and final showcased action from Dave Hubbard, Bud Miyamoto, Micah McMullin, Matt Hamilton, Chris Won, Nick Ashby, Jeff Vycital, and Jesse Walsh. The Drop-Knee Pro final included Dave Hubbard, Bud Miyamoto, Micah McMullin, and Jeff Vycital. From the start, it was a heat dominated by Dave, Bud, and Micah, with Jeff Vycital unable to find his rhythm. In the end, Dave eventually proved himself the victor. The beautiful ladies of the Bodyboarding world graced Huntington Beach with their talent throughout the competition. Karla Costa Taylor (Brazil), Tara Parsons (California), Vicki Reale (Australia/USA), and Claudia Ferrari (Brazil) all went their hardest out in the water. Karla came out on top ripping consistently on each wave. The Men’s Pro quarters and semis were exciting to watch throughout the day, as all the guys kept the action going. Wave riders from all over the globe, such as Guilherme Tamega, Jacob Romero, Dave Hubbard, Glenn Sullivan, Nick Ormerod, Joe Grodzen, Jones Russell, Wesley Fisher, Jeff Hubbard, Dan Worley, and David Philips, are just some talent that represented their countries in the water today. The Men’s Pro final provided the riders with some solid good ramps. It was the Kauai rippers Jeff Hubbard, David Phillips, and David Hubbard, battling against Maui charger Jacob Romero. They were all going as big as the conditions would permitted. David Phillips and Jeff Hubbard both took waves back to back, throwing synchronized moves as if they were in each other’s heads. But, in the end, the highflying Jacob Romero proved himself throughout the heat, edging out the competition, taking the check, and victory at Huntington. Following the Men’s final was the Sling for Bling Tow Out event, showcasing Jorge Colomer, Drew Erickson, Hunter Fedden, Bud Miyamoto, Jason Bitzer, Jeff Hubbard and David Phillips. The wind was on it and the waves were not frothing much, but it was a fun
Drop-knee Pro 1. David Hubbard 2. Bud Miyamoto 3. Micah McMullin 4. Jeff Vycital Open Amateur 1. Trevor Kam 2. Jesse Walsh 3. Rocket Klein 4. Hunter Feden 13-18 1. JB Hillen 2. Soaia Shanbaz 3. Trevor Kam 4. Rocket Klein
PHOTOS BY: BRYAN PEZMAN / PEZPIX.COM ______________________________________________
Tour: The Body Gove USBA National Bodyboard Tour Event: The Dave & Buster’s Sandy Beach Pro Location: Sandy Beach, Oahu “Half Point” Dates: July 10th & 11th Sponsors: Dave & Buster’s, Body Glove, T&C Surf, Churchill, Star 101.9 and Vitamin Water, Go Mokulele Airlines
PHOTO BY: ANDREW RAMS
Sandy Beach delivered the goods for the Dave and Buster’s Pro, part of the USBA Body Glove Tour today. Surf was in the 3-6 foot face range with epic high tide half point (surf break) rights and lefts. Gulilherme Tamega, 37 from Brazil, took top honors in the highly contested Pro Men’s division. “It’s really good to be at Sandy Beach,” exclaimed Tamega. “It was a hard final, I knew I had to get the best waves and I could hear the crowd cheer for the
Hawaiians, so I had to get through that.” It was a close match. Current World Champion, Kauai’s Jeff Hubbard, snagged waves right at the horn and had the crowd screaming at the get go. The final was a high performance battle as the lead changed several times during the 25-minute heat. Local favorite Treavor Kam lit up the water in three finals in the afternoon. Kam, just 18 and a Sandy Beach local, had the gallery screaming at his every move. “ This was so great”, said Kam. “I love it, it’s good to perform at Sandy’s in front of the home crowd. I am stoked to beat a couple of the guys I look up to.” “It’s good to see Kam doing well here, he is the future”, said Hubbard. “Yeah the young guys were pushing hard”, said Tamega. “ He made so many finals today, he is on a roll, that is great for the sport.” Trevor was the first USBA rider to compete as an Amateur and make it into a Pro division final. The Pro Division batteled it out for a $6,000 dollar prize purse.
Women’s Pro 1.Karla Costa-Taylor, Brasil/Hawaii 2. Claudia Ferrari, Hawaii, Brasil 3. Roberta Bitzer, Brasil 4. Kelly Gordon, Hawaii Drop Knee 1. David Hubbard, Hawaii 2. Bud Miyamoto, Hawaii 3. Joshua Trotter, Hawaii 4. Blain Andrews, Hawaii Open 1. Treavor Kam, Hawaii 2. Keone Haina, Hawaii 3. Sammy Morretino, Hawaii 4. Codi Lucas, Hawaii
Tamega (Men’s Pro Champion) is a six time World Champion and won the final with a tube ride to air roll spin (one maneuver) to air roll on a right. Taking top honors for the big air award was Jacob Romero who scored perfectly on an incredible back flip on day one of competition.
13-19 1. JB Hillen, Hawaii 2. Treavor Kam, Hawaii 3. Keanu Cazimero, Hawaii 4. Sammy Morretino, Hawaii
In the Drop Knee Pro it was Jeff’s bro Dave Hubbard who edged out Bud Miyamoto (both from Kauai) for top honors. “It was a tough final with really good waves, it is good to take home the Trophy against such a high caliber of riders”, said Hubbard.
12 & Under 1. Patrick Orr 2. Kawaika Kamai 3. Shayden Wolf 4. Eli Lluellen
The Woman’s pro was handled by Karla Costa Taylor. Taylor scored high on an air roll spin and solid combination waves just beating out Claudia Ferrari. Both Brazilian Women are now living in Hawaii. Taylor is making her come back after having two beautiful boys. “I reached my goal and I am happy that I have gotten my surfing back up to pro standards, this was a great event and the waves were so fun, I am happy.” Karla has also clinched her first event USBA National title at the Dave and Busters Sandy Beach Pro after wins at the USBA US Open and North Shore Soap Factory Pipe Girls Pro USBA events. Claudia Ferrari (Hawaii/Brazil), Roberta Bitzer (Brazil/Hawaii) and Kelly Gordon (Maui) where not far behind placing in the above order. All girls surfed with precision and there was only 1 point between 2nd and 3rd and again between 3rd and 4th. Roberta Bitzer former two time USBA National Champion said “I have broken my 2010 curse of not making a final” and is now looking to join Karla Costa Taylor on the world tour again in 2011. The Body Glove USBA tour has grown exponentially over the past five years and was founded by Jason Bitzer in 2005. This tour is run buy Bodyboarders for Bodyboarders to support a three tier system supporting athletes from Amateur to National Pro and on into the International ranking on the IBA world tour. Each division has a reward system built to support its Champion’s. National Amateurs are seeded into the National Pro ranks when a title is won. The top 10 USBA riders receive a seed (spot) in the IBA World Pipeline Pro each year as a reward for their efforts the year prior.
Stand Up 1. Drew Wong 2. Hopton Smith 3. Alan Lamphere 4. Joey Muller Amateur Girls All Ages 1. Tayzia Lee Dakele 2. Kekai Reeves 3. Saydi Smith 4. Lelilei Jacobson 5. Carla Motta _____________________________________________________________ Event: The 2010 Keiki Ocean Fest Location: Waimanalo Bay Beach Park Sponsors: Body Glove, Duke Kahanamuko Foundation, Ocean Current, Dave and Busters Honolulu, T&C Surf, Denzien, 662 MOBB, Ally, Turbo, Churchill, BZ, Creatures of Leisure, VS, Bodyboarder Magazine, NO.6, Surge Bodyboarding, Nomad, Empire, Wahoo’s Fish Tacos, Lanikai Juice, Sticky Bumps, Keneke’s, NMD Stox
Congratulations to all the competitors and crew! Results: Men’s Pro 1. Guilherme Tamega, Brasil 2. Jeff Hubbard, Hawaii 3. Spencer Skipper, Hawaii 4. Trevor Kam, Hawaii
The third annual Keiki Ocean Fest was held in extremely fun surf at Waimanalo Bay Beach Park. Oahu’s youth showed up in full force ranging from four to fifteen years of age. The weather re-
port lead the events volunteers to believe that the event could be a rain out. However mother nature had different plans for the Keiki and instead provided sun and waves for all. With only a sprinkle mid morning, the rest of the day was amazing and sunny with fun swell for the large turn out. The Keiki Ocean Fest is like one big family and this year we had a good amount of new faces to the growing O’hana. The talent at the Keiki Oceanfest was impressive. Both eastside locals and visiting leeward, town and north shore keiki ripped their way throughout the day. The entire field was treated to lunch by Wahoo’s Fish Tacos and Keneke’s , which fueled them for big performances. Standouts outs of the event came in the form of Blain (father) and Quixion Andrews (child), who were busting full air rolls in the Tandem Division which lead them to the win. The girls where shredding, and Saydi Smuth had the moves to gain her the win. In the thirteen to fifteen division, Keali’i Alapai edged out last years winner Brandon Amaya with big rolls and combos. The highly competitive twelve and under division was taken by Shaydon Wolfe for the second year in a row with Kawika Kamai coming in a close second. All the competitors showed amazing talent and stoke for the sport of Bodyboarding and it seems Oahu’s bodyboarding heritage is in good hands. All competitors walked away with prizes and every finalist was given a new board so to tear up the waves during rest of the school summer holidays. Good times is what the Keiki Ocean fest is all about, and once again our goal was accomplished. Mahalo to all or sponsors and all the USBA Staff and volunteers (Jeff Hubbard, Jason Bitzer, Heather Hubbard, Spencer Skipper, Roberta Bitzer, Jared Lau, Big Todd Martin, David Hubbard, Paul Benco, Christina De lima, Jade Robles, Lindsey Yasui, Claudia Ferrari, Trevor Kam, Keoni Haina and all the families) for making it another great year for Oahu’s keiki. Girls: 1. Saydi Smuth 2. Kekai Reeves 3. Taylia Lee Pakehi 4. Laura De Soto 13-15 Boys 1. Kealii Alapai 2. Brandon Amaya 3. Shaydon Wolfe 4. Kawaiki Kamai 5. Jon Oba 12 & Under Boys 1. Shaydon Wolfe 2. Kawaia Kamai 3. Mark Reeves 4. Nick Reeves 5. Zane Berabe 6. Kailiona Daversola Tandem 1. Quickson & Blaine Andrews 2. Ezekiel & Melanie Bartels 3. Keiki Bouchard & Kainoa 4. Hauoli & Nick Reeves 5. Kayala & Jub Andrews 6. Tawney & Peter Pakele KEIKI CONTEST IMAGES PH: NICHOLAS SEYMOUR
Tour: Florida Bodyboarding Association (www.fbatour.com) Event: Flagler Beach Pro, presented by BZ Pro Boards Location: Flagler Beach, Florida Date: May 22nd Sponsors: BZ, Anarchy, Custom X, Wave Rebel, Science, Sticky Bumps, Malibu Surf Shop, Congo Bodyboards, Bodyboard Headquarters, Randyshots.com
Amateur 1. Steven Tyson 2. Alex Hillier 3. Jacob Beede 4. Jeff Datzel Drop-knee 1. Devin Ricke 2. Dan Worley 3. Brandon Routh 4. Joe Harris Masters 1. Carlos Jenkins 2. Alfonso Parodi 3. Damien Dinham 4. Jose Sanchez _____________________________________________________________ Event: Duck Village Outfitters/ Catch Surf Outer Banks Shootout Location: Hayman Street, Kill Devil hills, North Carolina Date: May 14th Sponsors: Duck Village Outfitters and Catch Surf/Division 71, Plastic People, Stealth Fins, Creatures Of Leisure, and Outer Banks Taco Bar.
The FBA started its 2010 season with a great event on a beautiful, sunny day at Flagler Beach, Florida on May 22. As always, this event had a great vibe and good attitude from both the competitors and all those that who attended. For the first time, Flagler Beach opened the season with perfect timing after a long and cold winter season. Weather offered the best conditions with sunny skies, warm air and water temps. Even though the waves were not the best, it was sizeable enough for the riders to show their talent. Two to three foot waves were the order of the day, but these guys proved one more time that bodyboarding in Florida is as strong as ever. In the dropknee division, Devin Ricke took first place while accepting his award as 2009 FBA DK Season Champion. Steven Tyson came on top for the Amateur division as Carlos Jenkins joined the Masters division for the first time to take first place. The fight was good in the Pro division. All competitors were setup in two person heats until the last two were standing. Eventually, Brian Holloway edged out Dan Worley for the victory. Bodyboarding in Florida is starting to take off in the right direction. Now that the FBA is working together with the USBA, the sky is the limit. We would like to thank all our sponsors for their support! For more results, photographs, and info about the FBA, visit the tour website at www.fbatour.com. -Al Rumbos
Final Results: Pro 1. Brian Holloway 2. Dan Worley 3. Travis Hawyer 4. Devin Ricke
FIRST TIME AT FIGHT CLUB: Duck Village Outfitters’ Bob Hovey and Catch Surf/ Division 71 trustee Ricky Miller conjured up the idea of holding the first surfing/ bodyboarding event in these parts some time ago. Naturally, Plastic People, Stealth Fins, Creatures Of Leisure, and Outer Banks Taco Bar (owned and operated by boogie savant Eric Drexler) helped focus Hovey and Miller’s vision, hopping on board to sponsor the Shootout’s coming-out party, which offered Pro Surf, Pro Boogie, Amateur Men’s, and Dropknee divisions and a slightly mobile three-day waiting period to guarantee the most ideal competitive scenario. “It’s a WCT-style skins format, top two waves scored, winner flies directly into the Money Round, while 2nd and 3rd go to man-on-man death heats,” said Miller, “so the Pro Surf and Boogie winners can potentially win $250 for their skin tally, plus another $400 and a brand-new Y-Quad board from Catch Surf. All for surfing fun Aframe peaks with their boys before Memorial Day brings in all the tourists.” Results: Pro Bodyboard— 1. Brian Stoehr, $400 2. Mike Bain, $150 3. Carlos Jenkins, $100 4. Bob Hovey, Anthony Delacapini, Chris Monroe, $50
TOUR: BIA TOUR 2010 Schedule www.biatour.net
EVENT # 1 JAN 23RD, 2010 PRO / AM SALT CREEK A RATED EVENT # 2 FEB 27TH, 2010 PRO / AM MANHATTAN BEACH A RATED EVENT # 3 APR 10TH, 2010 PRO / AM WAVE HOUSE A RATED EVENT # 4 MAY 22ND, 2010 PRO / AM SEASIDE REEF A RATED EVENT # 5 JUN 12TH, 2010 PRO / AM ZUMA A RATED EVENT # 6 JUL 17TH, 2010 PRO / AM GOLDEN WEST A RATED EVENT # 7 SEP 11-12TH, 2010 PRO / AM HUNTINGTON BEACH AA RATED ______________________________________________________________ TOUR: IBA WORLD TOUR 2010 SCHEDULE & RESULTS ibaworldtour.com
EVENT # 5 May 26th to 30th Peruvian Inka Challenge Peru Lima International (Men) DK G. Slam $35.000 1050 / 2000 pts EVEVNT # 6 June/July 14th to 14th Shark Island Challenge Australia Cronulla, NSW IBA Special Event $10.000 EVENT # 7 July 28th to Aug 6th Mexico Pro Mexico Zicatela, Puerto Escondido IBA Latin America (Men, Women) International (DK) $20.000 2000 / 2000 / 1000 pts EVENT # 8 August 19th to 22st Sopelana BBK Pro Spain Sopelana TBC EVENT # 9 August 24th – 29th Sintra Portugal Pro Portugal Praia Grande Grand Slam (Men and Women) $60.000 2000 / 1500 pts EVENT # 10 September 1st to 5th Ferrol Pro Spain Doñinos Beach International (Men) $20.000 1000 pts EVENT # 11 September 14th to 19th Katherine Melo Pro Brazil Itajaí, Santa Catarina International (Men and Women) $50.000 1100 / 1100 pts EVENT # 12 September 21st to 26th Bahia Bodyboarding Show Brazil Salvador Grand Slam (Men) Int. Women) $60.000 2000 / 1000 pts EVENT # 13 October 28th to 31st Bodyboard Pro Festival Venezuela Playa de Parguito, Isla de Margarita International (Women) and DK $20.000 1000 / 1000 pts
EVENT # 1 February 16th to 26th Pipeline Pro USA Pipeline, Oahu Grand Slam (Men) $25.000 2000 pts
EVENT # 14 December TBC Confital Pro Spain El Confital, Gran Canaria Grand Slam (Men and Women) $40,000 2000 / 1500 pts ______________________________________________________________
EVENT # 2 April 12th to 18th Soldiers Beach Pro Australia NSW International Man $20.000 1000 pts Event # 3 May 5th to 9th Búzios International Brazil Búzios, Rio de Janeiro Grand Slam (women) Int. Men $50.000 1100 / 1500 pts EVENT # 4 May 14th to 23rd Arica Chilean Challenge Chile El Gringo, Arica Grand Slam (Men) $25.000 2000 pts
Surfing en el Border Contest By: Joe Grodzen This year’s Surfing en el Border Contest at Playas de Tijuana was nothing short of excitement. As we crossed the border into the wave spoiled country of Mexico and zig-zagged the streets of Tijuana, there were nothing but good feelings. Even more so as we safely made it to our hotel at the Hacienda del Mar. We knew that this would be a memorable weekend. The event set up was more than amazing. The local community built a brand new wood boardwalk, showers, a stage, and a full on concrete arena with seating. The set up made us wonder why we don’t come here more often. Beautiful colorful kiosks with candy and food to enjoy. Just a great display of hard work and planning. Riders from all zones and levels arrived at the scene: Jeff Hubbard, Jacob Romero, Dave Hubbard, Drew Erichson, Jeff Bragg, Chris Won Taloa, Shea Sevilla, and other international riders from Mexico, Puerto Rico, and Peru, came to battle for the largest cash purse in Baja California history. The contest began with fun three to four foot glassy conditions. Riders looked for punchy sections on the tidal rise to execute combos and high scoring rides. Mexican champion “Chuy” from Puerto Escondido stood out from day one. He shocked the world’s best by putting down a huge ten in the final with multiple flips and solid combos. Jeff Hubbard and Jacob Romero had their work cut out for them. In the end, Dave Hubbard used the three-wave format total to take the win and the purse. The women’s pro final showcased the dedication United States riders have in the sport with a whole crew of girls making the trek down to compete. Keila Grodzen dominated the final with smooth powerful rolls and quality wave selection. Second place was taken by Monica del Amore of Dana Point, third place to Mexican ISA team member Kenia Leon, and fourth place to Michelle Rozzen. The highly anticipated drop-knee final had the contest main line drama with some controversial calls deciding the final. Once all the smoke and beer cleared Jeff Hubbard took the win by isolating himself on his own peak and busting out the old school dk roll. Gracias to the local community, Sean Backus and his crew, for all the hard work. As I recommended last year, this year, and will for the next … please come to Mexico! It’s all good! Pro: 1. Dave Hubbard 2. Jacob Romero 3. Chuy Silva Cabrera 4. Jeff Hubbard Women: 1. Keila Grodzen 2. Monica del Amore 3. Kenia Leon 4. Michelle Rozzen Drop-knee 1. Jeff Hubbard 2. Dave Hubbard 3. Jeff Bragg 4. Enrique De Solar
CONTEST IMAGES PH: ZENFILMZ.COM
Surge Go Pro Contest:
Enter to win a board, fins, and more! A couple years ago, bodyboarders had to invest thousands of dollars on a video camera and housing to get pristine water footage. Thanks to the Go Pro, things have changed dramatically. Now bodyboarders only have to fork out a couple hundred bucks and they are in business. Because of this Surge would like to urge riders to get out there with their Go Pro to enter the Surge Go Pro Contest in hopes of winning a brand new board, fins, North Shore 2009-2010 dvds, and more. The Surge Go Pro Contest requirements: 1. The Surge Go Pro Contest requires riders to create an edit with footage taken with their Go Pro. 2. All footage must be shot with a Go Pro (preferably HD). 3. The contestant must produce an edit with his or her footage of at least one minute or longer. 4. The edit must be accompanied by music of the contestant’s choice. *Free music by Sapient can be downloaded from www. sapientkills.com 5. The edit must be uploaded to the YouTube.com or Vimeo.com account of the person submitting the edit and listed as follows: “Surge Go Pro Contest by [insert first and last name of contestant]” 6. The contestant must then send an email to: email@example.com with the link to his or her edit. The email must also contain the contestant’s contact information: Full name, phone, mailing address, and email address. The edit will then be submitted and posted at surgegoprocontest.blogspot.com, where the judges’ panel at Surge (to be determined) will view each submission and select winners. 7. All submitted edit links from contestants must be emailed to Surge by October 31, 2010 at 11:59PM. 8. Only one entry per person permitted. The Surge Go Pro Contest Prizes: 1. First Place: Board & Fins, and North Shore 2009-2010 dvd, and bonus suprise. 2. Second Place: Fins, North Shore 2009-2010 dvd, Surge gear. PH: BRYAN CABALCE
3. Third Place—North Shore 2009-2010 dvd, Surge hat, and stickers.
[ INDUSTRY BUZZ ] By: Adam “Bladam” Burton There is a ton of action coming your way from every angle of the body board industry! Surge is here to keep you filled in on all the gossip, products, and industry happenings. So here we go! Bullys [www.bullyssurf.com] The long time producer of surf accessories and leashes is now releasing a new body board leash called “Code Red”! This bodyboarding leash is supposed to be their best release to date, withstanding heavy conditions. Should be on the shelves by mid-summer! Custom X [www.customx.com] CX is still bringing the ruckus with a new run of specialty boards. The Drone, Archer, and DK Hybrid incorporate CX’s new blend of materials, these are available now at retailers. In addition, CX has now begun full in house manufacturing of their leashes, so be on the lookout for new styles and colors! As for Hawaii news, the Hawaii Limited 6 board has been selling like mad across the islands. Developed by CX Hawaii, the Hawaii board is more of an old school shape, coming in both bat tail and crescent. So if you’re in need for a high performance board, get one while they last. In team news, CX has resigned Aussie rider Ewan Donnachie, while Aruban riders Jeremy Loefstok and Gregory Wouters are making deep impressions in the IBA and BIA tours. Lastly, Custom X has created a blog to keep everyone informed on team riders, product, and anything associated with CX: www.customxblog.com. Manta [www.manta.com.au] Manta and Spencer Skipper are stoked to team up again after the long hiatus. His new pro model is now available! Skipp is globe trotting this summer, chasing down barrels and killing them with style and Hawaiian power! “I’m not trying to redesign the wheel here … this is just a basic proven shape. Crescent tail, no channels. That’s right, no channels. Why? Because crescent tails work a lot better with out them. So do yourself a favor and try it out!” -Spencer Skipper Atlantic Bodyboards/NYBB [www.atlanticbodyboards.com] In recognition and celebration of International Surf Day, AtlanticBodyboards.com and Surfrider Foundation NYC Chapter teamed up with Shape Magazine for an afternoon on the beach in Far Rockaway, N.Y. to help promote bodyboarding and conduct a coordinated beach cleanup. The Cleanup and Bodyboarding Clinic were a great success! We had a great time introducing and demonstrating the sport to all who attended, emphasizing the
importance of respecting our beaches, and introducing participants to the ocean and wave riding through the sport of bodyboarding. Special thanks to local charger Allison Box for her support! Matt Clark has been keeping in the public eye with two recent photography exhibitions that show through the end of July. Keeping busy as always, Clark’s hand drawn designs can be found on the newly launched Naff le Skell t-shirt line. Mike Simone has been hard at work promoting both RelaxZen and HumanFitProject.com. Congrats go out to Chris Schlegel who’s back home after recently graduating. Cartel [www.cartelboardco.com] Whispering talk may have made it seem that Cartel was out of the loop, scratch all of that! The boys over at Cartel have been mustering up all kinds of heavy hitting madness! The god of DK himself, Paul Roach, has come out with a pro model DK leash to accompany his board model. This is a DK specific design that includes a 5ft tight coil, super comfy neoprene bicep cuff, and a heavy duty brass swivel for durability. Cartel is now available in Australia through Turbo distribution with all new Toby Player and Paul Roach graphics. Team Rider Fred Compagnon has been working on a new DK nose extender for his up coming limited signature model available 2011. TOOBS [www.toobs.com] OG board manufacture TOOBS is still on the grind and brining you some of the best shapes and construction around. Adapting to everything thrown their way, they have now come out with their new core “Carbon”. Carbon Core has unparalleled flex characteristics; the memory of this core is off the charts. Toobs shaper Mike Brum says, “Having shaped almost every available core material over the last two decades, this new Carbon Polypro has the best recoil and memory I’ve ever seen.” Not only does Carbon Core have amazing projection, it’s also lighter than any other core on the market. It is available on all models TOOBS produces so give it a go at one of your retailers or at www. toobs.com Lastly, Toobs would also like to congratulate Hawaiian team rider, Jade Robles, for her second place showing at the Women’s Pipeline event. Toys [www.toysbodyboards.com] The whole Toys crew has been traveling and scoring waves across the globe! 2010 has entailed non-stop action for them as they look to keep bringing it with the new 2011 lineup in conjunction with Plastic People. According to NY ripper and art designer Chuck Guarino, ”The Toys/Plastic People project is a collaboration of two of the most underground and core brands the body boarding industry has ever seen. Combining the best board materials and shape along with punkest graphics influenced
from the streets of New York City, you get hands down the raddest board on the market!” For more info, and to check out the logos for the boards, check out Toys’ channel on Vimeo.com: TOYSBODYBOARDS. JJ Ayala has climbed the legs of hell’s angel, sweating south of the boarder the past few months. He’s getting ready to head back to California soon to get savage at the Wedge. Until then he is wearing snakeskin shorts, getting biker tats. Aka Lyman and his family did the full on American family road trip this summer: Montana, Idaho, California, and Nevada. They did Disneyland for the kids, Vegas for Aka, fishing and beer and black market illegal fire works. Keith Sasaki has recently moved to Japan and is modeling once again. Wally Sani is moving back from Hawaii to the land of knife fights and Military teenage prostitution, Oceanside California. Wally is loaded and ready for the strange days ahead. Raffi and Will … well let’s see, fishing, beer, and peyote. Both just got back from the “Smoke’em if you got’em” Toys OZ tour. It was a hell of a trip. Waves, waves, and more waves. Raffi’s going to Mexico in August and Will’s going to Indo. Spunjah Chronic [www.spunjahchronic.com] Main man Mark Balasbas, Heights Productions, is plugging hours away editing North Shore 2009/2010, which is scheduled to release the end of this summer. NO.6 [www.theno6.com] No.6 has been busy working on its new EFC [Engineered Flex Core] Core. As brand manager Mark Dale describes, “We are among a collective of brands that has been researching new methods to bring customized materials and cores to body boards, and EFC allows us to dial in the perfect amount of flex into PP (polypro) cores by utilizing the best engineered flex systems and recoil ratios that are actually molded into the centrifuge of the core. This technology is the first step in creating cores that are suited to rider styles and water temps with endless possibilities.” Coming soon is a new No. 6 ladies line. With new signings Kelly Gordon and Natasha Overin, No.6 is looking to create a collection of board suited for ladies by offering the best in technology. What to do when you have an extremely high-strung and overachieving upstart pro like Max Arent-Highfield? You send him on a mission to create the ultimate spec. Max and No.6 teamed up with nouveau mod rocker inspired clothing line Plastic People and create one bad-assed hombre of a board. Look out for the new Max to hit the shops late Fall! Graphics by Plastic People. Grab the bull by the horns! No.6 sponsors the IBA Mexico Zicatela Pro in Puerto Escondido late July to early August. This specialty event features an extensive pro and DK division sought to bring the best of the world talent. Puerto Escondido is named the ‘Mexican Pipeline’ and this freight train wave coupled with an intense inside sandbar will make for some of the most high performance waves on
the tour this year. Morey [www.moreybodyboards.com] Morey currently has two of its top California riders in East Oz right now. Keep an eye out for mental shots of Matty Meyer and Mike “Pastey” Lepiere. Pastey is known for scrapping on trips and it’s rumored he’s sleeping in a Eucalyptus tree with a family of Koalas. BZ Pro Boards [www.bzproboards.com] Current IBA world champion Jeff Hubbard has been traveling and competing on the IBA Tour. David Phillips has made stops on a couple IBA Tour events himself. Big things are going on at BZ. Besides that with new developments going on, be on the look out! BSD [www.benseverson.com] Legendary bodyboarder and shaper offers the best in custom boards. For more information, check out benseverson.com. Wave Rebel [www.waverebel.com] Micah “Da Hammah” McMullin recently returned from Peru, where he competed in the Peru Inka Challenge. From there he made stop in California, taking third in pro dropknee at the UBSA Huntington event. Micah accompanied fellow team rider Jeremy Wright to visit schools to speak with the youth about bodyboarding and life. As for Jeremy Wright, he has been hanging around home in California, frequenting the Wedge and plans to fly to Oahu to compete in the second stop of the USBA tour at Sandy Beach. As usual, former world champ and legend Guilherme Tamega has been trotting the globe, competing in select IBA tour events. Madrid [www.madridbodyboards.com] Madrid’s 2010-2011 boardline will be distributed globally by SFP. The 2010-2011 line includes: Mark Klein Model, Joe Grodzen Model (new), Asylum model, Zion model and the Prototype model (new). Bob Forbes is also designing a production version of his Extreme board design for a mid season release. Science [www.mikestewart.com] Science riders Trevor Kam, JB Hillen, Shawbaz Soaia, and Jesse Walsh flew up and blew up in June’s USBA Contest at Huntington, California. All three showed their true colors by placing in various divisions. In team news, Australian Tom Rigby just resigned with Science for another three years. On a different note, it seems a lot is happening with the Science team in terms of education with JB Hillen recently graduating from Waianae High this year, Paul Benco graduating with a Master’s of Education in English, and Nate Rubio wrapping up his degree to become a radiology technician. In addition, Keahi Parker has been back home on the Big Island but will head back to college at UH Manoa at summer’s ends.
Science is running the “Science Custom Design Challenge.” It is an art competition intended to showcase the custom graphics capabilities of Science Customs body boards. The contest is still running and you can view/submit your work at http://vote.sciencecustoms.com/ Turbo [www.turbosurfdesigns.com.au] Congratulations to Jacob Romero for taking first at the USBA Huntington Beach! He has been traveling the world like a fiend, following the IBA tour and chasing the surf. In the past few months alone he has been to Chile, Peru, Australia two times, and the mainland US. Much more lies ahead of him for the immediate future with contests littered all across the globe. Follow Jacob’s life through his blog: www.jacobromero.com. Seven Shadows and dk maestro Mason Rose has been traveling around the world filming BBoy events these past months. Mason and his wife are also moving to Oahu in the next couple months, so expect to see a lot of action from Mason on the North Shore this winter. Shark Island main man Glen Sullivan not only put in his time on the North Shore and outer islands this winter season but flew across the Pacific to cruise in California the week of the first USBA tour stop at Huntington. Ballistic [www.getballistic.com] Maui legend Chad “Chad-O” Militante has been living on Oahu pushing the limit as usual. Gavin has logged in plenty of hours on the North Shore this winter, pushing himself in bigger surf. Keep on the watch for this ripper in the future! Churchill The new Hubb fins are living up to their name. They are flying off the shelves at shops. So hurry and grab a pair before it’s too late. E-Bodyboarding [www.ebodyboarding.com] 2010 has been a phenomenal year for waves and the eBodyboarding.com. John “Beans” Porzuczek is on a break from his hardcore studies at CalPoly and is currently over in Australia tapping some Tasman juice. He’s there with our buddy Rob Isambert, who released not only his “Ring Of Fire 2” but also eBodyboarding.com title, “Etcetera.” Ebodyboarding offers a Free copy of Etcetera with every purchase of $25 and up. Brian Stoehr has been tearing the BAG out of every contest the east coast can throw at him, taking out both the pro DK and open divisions at the Outer Banks Shootout this past spring. West Coast team rippers Collin Goddard and Drew Erichson have been making their mark on the BIA and USBA events out here and tapping into some Wedge action during the early season south swells. Vicki and Jay continue to get in the water as much as possible, and Vicki even made the pro women’s final at the U.S. Open of Bodyboarding, taking thrid amongst a tough field of international competition. Ebodyboarding.com is there for you by email 7 days a week and in the office
Monday-Friday from 11AM-5PM. Just call them toll free at: 1-877-326-2734 in the USA. Right hand man Justin Butorac, Vicki, or Jay will be happy to help you out. Follow Ebodyboarding on Facebook, Twitter, and bodyboardblog.com for the most up-to-date eBodyboarding. com news. Alternative Surf [www.alternativesurf.com] Alternative Surf is celebrating its 15th anniversary (19952010) this year! Alternative Surf carries all the top bodyboarding products at both its Seal Beach location and online store: alternativesurf.com. In team rider news, there will also be a silent auction and music festival to benefit our team rider Matt Hamilton, who suffered a stroke while competing in the USBA Huntington event. For more information, especially on ways to donate, go to www.chewyham.com. No Friends [www.nofriends.com] No Friends still offers the best of clothing, gear, and its classic videos that changed bodyboarding. Check out the web store and blog for updates on events! The Drift Productions Eric Schnitzler, maker of The Drift, plans to release his newest masterpiece entitled Within. Eric has been living in Tahiti for some time now, following and filming the action throughout the Pacific and Europe. Rookies [www.rookiesusa.com] After recuperating from his injuries last summer, James Murdock could have been found charging mutant Pipe any given day this past season. As we speak, though, Murdock is on his way back to Cali before heading down to Mexico for month to do the Zicatela Pro. Darren Delmore also arrived home on familiar soil after an extended trip to Australia that somehow gave rise to even purpler hands, purpler teeth, and a scragglier beard. Louie Robles is recovering from back surgery but should be back in the water by summer’s end. Chaney popped the cork and successfully asked for the hand in marriage of longtime girlfriend Sara. Alex Statom is squeezing all last minute surfs up in the bay with fatherhood looming at the end of August. FFAT [www.ffat.biz] Gearing up for the Indo Experience and Cabo Freak Fest 2010, Manny Vargas is claiming 2011 is going to be a big year for FFATtrips.com. Manny and the FFAT team are going to add new trips and keep the solid ones which are to include: Cabo Freak Fest, Costa Rica, Puerto Vallarta, Puerto Rico, and Indonesia. Who’s in? Denzien [www.denzienbodyboarding.com] Looking for a new leash, check out Denzien leashes! Spencer Skipper swears by them. Division 71 John “Beans” Porzuczek recently signed with Division 71
and is traveling through Australia. Keep an eye out for Beans! RXYM [www.rxymfashion.com] RXYM XRMY riders Rusty Friesen, Ray Machado, Bob Kithcart, Jeremy Wright, Drew Erichson, and Justin Crossman are hard at work accumulating footage for RXYM’s first full-length motion picture entitled, “This is The End” (Summer 2011). To accompany the film RXYM is releasing a clothing line entitled, “The End Collection.” It will be filled with two forms of dark American denim, fitted hats, super soft zipped hoody and various alterations in soft tees for both sexes. Follow RXYM as this new collection drops at twitter.com/rxymfashion and on facebook.com/RXYMFASHIONUSA. Brandon “ODB” Foster has been patrolling the So Cal coast as a full time Coast Guard, keeping our home breaks safe as well as scouting out secret spots for some DK sessions in between work. Rex Moribe has solidified his spot as Hawaii’s top gigolo and is focusing all his powers on the female persuasion while holding it down on the South Shore this summer. Lisah Gonzalez (formerly Pena) has been hitting dawn patrols at her beloved Salt Creek after working long hours as a veterinarian and local artist. Lastly, RXYM’s team manager and staff photographer Matt Byzak has issued a shout out to all groms that “RXYM will be picking up 3-6 amateur riders in Aug. 2010. Send all resumes to firstname.lastname@example.org. Check out his photography at www.eightyoneimages.com. Also last but not least for the RXYM Army is the signing of World DK Champ Dave Hubbard! The Foam Company [www.thefoamco.com] The Foam Company is all smiles as team rider Jacob Romero wins his first USBA competition at Huntington Beach and team rider Dave Hubbard once again snags the top spot in the Pro DK division. Jesse Walsh also finishing strong. Dave Hubbard’s signature Morey board and leash is released, and Jacob Romero’s signature Turbo should be on the shelf by the end of June. Matt Hozlman from Kaua`i is the newest rider on the Foam Co. team. Team rider Marcus Rodrigues is now riding for Maui Rippers. Elemenohpee is back in stock with a sick full line of boards after a 6 month hiatus. Sponge Maui, a new nonprofit bodyboarding club, will be holding signups at The Foam Co. mid July (check web for details). Deep [www.deepbodyboarding.com] Deep offers the best in boards, fins, suits, clothes, and accessories through their online store. For those looking for a new wetsuit, check out the new Agent18 and Science for sale. Deep would also like everyone to keep on eye on their 2010 team: Dusty Russell, Matt Meyer, Mike Lepiere, Jordan Hirsch, Travis Lindle, and Rany Phenning. Deep has developed team pages that each rider will be updating with blog posts and photographs. Take some time to
check them out and see what the guys are up to. ATTICA WETSUITS [www.atticawetsuits.com] Maui’s Jacob Romero just signed with Attica Wetsuits. Be on the lookout for Attica’s U.S. line in stores later this year.
[ RESPECT IS EVERYTHING ] We at Surge would like to express our appreciation to all the photographers, contributors, riders, staff, advertisers, and our families. You have made this magazine possible. We realize that all of you have sacrificed so much, from time, paychecks, and sessions, for the sport. We are honored to produce magazines alongside all of you. This is only the beginning ....
[ SURGE VERSION 2.0: THE DEATH OF PROFESSIONALISM, THE CHUCKY PROFILE, SUMMERTIME ZONES, AND MUCH, MUCH MORE! ] BRENDON NEWTON / PH: ANDREW CHISHOLM / ANDYCHIZ.COM