It all started in my passion within my living soul. I have full respect for SurgeBodyboarding.com and their hardcore group who live and breathe the bodyboarding world. That’s why I felt it would be a high point in my bodyboarding career to be in the online magazine Surge. Brothers and sisters, the mission all started when two seasons ago on the North Shore when I was blessed to be able to ride the biggest and best Waimea Bay wave ever ridden. That wave never made cover, so it was my mind set to receive a cover from the next season. Rick and I happened to live in the same house where we became friends. I saw the passion in his eyes and knew he was a hard worker of the ocean … and we were going to get a cover together. On this Saturday morning the report was an eight foot swell building to twenty foot by the evening. On Saturday morning I rode my bike and checked the waves. It was on! That’s when I flew home to get Rick and my bodyboard gear for an all time session. We tried for an hour. Rick even caught a ten foot set on his head that pushed him to the inside of Backdoor over the reef. At this point I prayed he
would paddle back out. Ten minutes later the hard core Rick was in the line up. Less then five minutes later the double up from hell rolled in and I knew game was on. At that second, I yelled at Rick and he looked and, “BAM!” Thank you time for a slice of heaven. When I came up I was ten feet away from Rick and yelled, “Cover!” Paddled over to Rick to give him a high five. It’s a blessing everyday to enjoy our ocean!! -Brian Wise
JOHN “BEANS” PORZUCZEK | PH: JORDAN ANAST | JORDANANAST.COM
PUBLISHER SURGE MEDIA GROUP | SURGEBODYBOARDING.COM CREATIVE DIRECTOR Richard Pata firstname.lastname@example.org EDITOR Evan Fa email@example.com PHOTO EDITOR Maurice Aubuchon firstname.lastname@example.org ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITORS Colin McGillivray email@example.com Joshua Shelly firstname.lastname@example.org REGIONAL EDITORS East Coast Nicola Lugo email@example.com West Coast Tyler Wieman firstname.lastname@example.org
Social Media Nicholas Seymour email@example.com
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Maurice Aubuchon, Nicola Lugo, Sacha Specker, Joshua Shelly, David Baker, Edwin Morales, Andrew Chisholm, Patrick Grady, Dane Grady, Chris Allen, Jordan Anast, Alex Verharst, Carlos Santana, Steve Jones, Mike Cerrone, Clark Little, Eric Schnitzer, Chris Burkard, Caleb Davenport, Bret Winners, Vince Cavataio, Colin McGillivray, Adam Warmington, Cameron Gundlock, Joe Grodzen, Ben Jackson, Travis Hackett, Fred Booth, Greg Nielson, Matt Vaughn, Eric Schnitzer, Patrick Vierra, Warren Anderson, Dustin Michelson, Mitch Nibbs, Zach dela Cruz, Shane Grace, Andrew Rams, Josh Tabone, Robbie Crawford, Aaron Goulding, Keila Grodzen, Nathan Tyack, Timmy Hamilton, Emalia Zuttermeister, Matt Catiglione, Alessandro Masciotti, Tosh Demello, Daniel Moreira, Warren Baynes, Roger Fa, Damien Antioco, Gavin Shigesato, Jeff Yusa, Matt Byzak, Jordan Stallard, Chris Gurney, Brandon Colbert, Jem Cresswell, Joseph Libby, James Mertens, Kristy Kaku Joe Grodzen, Justin Mack, Kevin Gonzalez, Shea Sevilla, Jeff Blege, James Hennessy, Andrew Herch, Joyner, Pablo Jimenez, Jye McDonald, Jeremy Phillips, Marty Kooistra, Morgan Halas, Ron Ziebell, Nick Arant, Don Nguyen, Matt Clark, Dave Weedall, Martin Yelland, Tim McCaig, Josh Wills, Martin Justinevicius, Elmo Ramos, Chase Miller, Ricardo Faustino, Rich Bean, Pedro Ferreira, Jenavieve Belair, Jay Vodipija, Bryan Pezman, Andrew Herchakowski, Scott Sporleder, Aaron Mizushima, Ricardo Estevez, Jon Alexander, Evan Conway, Bob Baldwin, Ricky Miller, Manuel Velez, Gabriel Padial, Chad Barlow, Evan Fa, Julien Durand, Conan Whitehouse, Makana Chaffee, Michael Bolton, James Dawson, Colin Goddard, Wes Broshears, Eddie Olmeda, Neal Miyake, Nicholas Seymour, Bryan Cabalce, Nick Borgens, Manuel Gonzalez, Mike Bain, Mike Neal, Jo Bessen, Jimmie Hepp, Tyler Walker, BJ Yeager, Justin Pirtle, Daniel Kauhaahaa, Carey Trabue, Jared Houston, Nic de Jesus, Caleb Burns, CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Nicola Lugo, Jacob Reeve, Mike “Libo” Libudziewski, Mike Cerrone, Joshua Shelly, Murphy Bartling, Neal Miyake, Matt Vaughn, Eric Schnitzer, Chris Schlegel, Mike Coots, Micah McMullin, Aaron Byzak, Jacob VanderVelde, Evan Conway, Richard Pata, Chris Won Taloa, JT Grey, Nicholas Seymour, Mike Stewart, Kawika Kaui, Clark Little, Paul Benco, Spencer Skipper, Sacha Specker, Mark Watts, Eunate Aguirre, Ben Player, Amaury Lavernhe, Happy Zurowski, Adam Dumas, Greg Tindall, Glen Thurston, Adam Burton, Joe Suzuki, Ryan Frazzetta, Jason Bitzer, Al Rumbos, Nicholas Seymour, Anthony Olayon, Robert Isambert, Marcus Rodrigues, Alistair Taylor, Claudia Ferrari, Edwin Morales, Joseph Libby, Robbie Crawford, Hauoli Reeves, Elmo Ramos, Eric Fairbanks, Jeremy Phillips, Sundaran Gillespie, Jonah Romero, Bob Baldwin, Rich Bean, Chris Schlegel, Ricky Miller, Julien Durand, Joe Grodzen, Adam Burton, Alisha Kayama, Alex Gero SurgeBodyBoarding.com online magazine is published by Surge Media Group / SurgeBodyBoarding.com. Reproduction of any material requires the written consent of the publisher. Copyright ® 2012. All rights reserved. The opinions in the articles are those of the authors and may not reflect the views of Surge Media Group / SurgeBodyBoarding.com and the advertisers. Advertisers assume full responsibility for the entire content and subject matter of all advertisements. Advertisements and articles are accepted upon the representation that the author / agency, or advertiser will indemnify and save Surge Media Group / SurgeBodyBoarding.com of all claims and legal action. Surge Media Group / SurgeBodyBoarding.com does not assume responsibility for unsolicited contributions. All photos should be submitted to Surge Media Group Attn: Photo Editor at firstname.lastname@example.org. Advertising rates available upon request. Contributors retain all rights to their contributions. Surge Media Group P.O. Box 54944 Irvine, CA 92619 Email: email@example.com
PH: EDWIN MORALES | MORALESEDWIN.COM
THE SPEX | SACHA SPECKER PROFILE 98 CAPTURING LIFE @ 10FPS 108 WINTER | CALIFORNIA & HAWAII 116 PASSION, ADDICTION, DEVOTION | DANE GRADY 148 LIFE IN A BALANCE | A JACOB ROMERO PROFILE 216 DK WARS | MAUI ROOTZ 234 CLASS OF 2012 272
DEPARTMENTS USBA REGIONAL NEWS 28 ALL TIME PIPE | IBA WORLD TOUR 36 SHOP PROFILE | ATLANTICBODYBOARDS.COM 52 SURGE EMPTIES 62 HONORING THE PROFESSIONAL BODYBOARDER 142 SURGE ART | SHORTY FATZ 162 STYLE & POWER 170 SURGE MUSIC | ROOTZ UNDERGROUND 210 THE DKLIFE 246
PH: JORDAN ANAST | JORDANANAST.COM
BODYBOARDING IS A BEAUTIFUL THING.
Of all the surfing forms, it is definitely the most versatile. Ride a bodyboard prone, dropknee, standup, double knee, wounded duck, cross your legs when you spin or not, it is still bodyboarding. Nothing more, nothing less. Plus, bodyboarding caters to any level of thrill seeker—be it Johnny Utah dragging his cooler on his foam bottom board during his week long summer vacation from Iowa or Spencer Skipper pulling into 10ft west bowls at Pipe with prowess. It is still bodyboarding. For some reason bodyboarding has been marketed as inferior by standup surfing culture in America. Ironic because bodyboarding runs closest to the alaia board surfing tradition than all the rest. Blame it on Blue Crush, Big Wednesday, or the Beach Boys … it does not change this ignorant, selfish, and even childish lie bodyboarders have to fight against. Despite it all, the truth of bodyboarding does not change. It is still a beautiful thing. With all the big things happening in bodyboarding around America and the world, the culture is steadily changing. Thanks to the internet and modern technology, the lie is unraveling. People cannot escape bodyboarding’s presence, its extremeness, and its marketability. At SurgeBodyBoarding.com, WE LIVE BODYBOARDING just like you do. We believe that through non-bias, powerful media this sport will oust the lie and bring bodyboarding to its rightful inheritance. Through the BLOOD, SWEAT, & TEARS of every supportive company, photographer, videographer, contributor, and bodyboarder in the lineup, it will happen. Soak up Version 5.0! Evan Fa Editor
PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY
USBA Hawaii Regional Tour | usbatour.com Event # 1 at Makapu’u, Oahu Sponsors: Science Bodyboards, Gyroll, MS Viper, T&C Surf, SurgeBodyBoarding.com, Met-Rx Nutrition, Go/ Mokulele, Christian Surfers Honolulu, Bio-Astin, Vitamin Water. Riders from across the state converged on Oahu for the first event of the USBA Hawaii Regional Tour. A small but decent north swell filled in for the local and traveling competitors at Makapu’u Beach Park. Although the sandbar wasn’t set up, there were some bomb sets making their way through and the youth were ready to charge it. There was plenty of action throughout the divisions, but the main standouts include Summer Hillen in the Open Women’s, Tanner McDaniel in the 13-17, JB Hillen in the Drop Knee Open, Kawika Kamai in 12 & Under, and Kahekili Labette in the Open AM. Other honorable mentions go out to local Shayden Wolf, who made his first Open Amateur final against riders twice his senior, and Jessica Bieza, who entered her first event ever in the Open Women’s division. The results for Event #1: Open AM 1. Kahekili Labatte 2. Sterling La’a 3. Shayden Wolfe 4. Zach Zane Open Women’s 1. Summer Hillen 2. Lisa Katsura 3. Jessica Beiza 4. Kira Kamai Drop Knee Open 1. JB Hillen 2. Sterling La’a 3. Frank Kong 4. Shane Long 13-17 AM 1. Tanner McDaniel 2. Shayden Wolfe 3. Akoni Tacub 4. Gabriel Pinheiro 12 & Under 1. Kawika Kamai 2. Shayden Wolfe 3. Calvin Cerrone 4. Kainoa Lono
All Time Pipe IBA Pipe Pro | GSS Event #1 of IBA World Tour 2012 By Wayne “Shaggy” Gardener/ IBA World Tour The forecast for the IBA Pipe Challenge looked phenomenal. A northwest swell was arriving the day the holding period started, peaking on the second day to possibly 12ft and slowly petering out after four days, with light trade winds the whole time. The forecast hadn’t looked this good since the contest in 1997. Tanner McDaniel was the topic of conversation going into day one of the event. The 12 year old from Kauai was the youngest competitor to ever compete in the main event and was in the first heat of the morning. He faced off against men twice his age and gave it a nudge but wasn’t able to catch any good scoring waves. As the day progressed the swell started to kick in. Those who made it past day one knew they needed to put on their big boy underwear because day two was going to be double the size. Walking up the beach access in front of Backdoor in the pre-dawn light, one could tell from the noise the ocean was making and the feeling of spray in the air, the waves had come to party overnight and it seemed like they wanted to party all day too. The beach had
MATT HOLZMAN | PH: MORGAN HALAS
halved in size from the previous day and the swell hadn’t even peaked yet. A set washed through from second reef. Some, the ones who forgot to bring their big boy underwear to the beach, suggested it was too big to run, whilst others were jumping up and down with excitement that it was happening. Kauaian, Matt Holzman, who admitted to only surfing Pipe a handful of times, caught the wave of the day and the contest. He scooped in late and deep on a ten-foot peak at Pipe, a wave so perfect in shape it looked like it had been drawn by a daydreaming kid in math class. Holzman came screaming out the pit on the foam ball and spit to a ten-point score from the judges. Charly Chapelet, from Reunion Island, was the only other person to receive a ten-point ride on the second day. Micah Oh, Josh Kleve, Drew Innocend, Jacob Vandervelde and Nick Ormerod deserve mentions for their outstanding performances on day two. The top 16, who’d been patiently waiting to sample some of Pipe’s perfect barrels, finally got their turn on the third and final day of the Men’s competition in flawless 6-8ft conditions. The drop in swell meant Backdoor became more inviting. The first surprise upset of the morning was the dismissal of Jake Stone and the second, Mitch Rawlins, in the following heat. Mike Stewart, who’d fallen out of the GSS at the end of last year, still showed why he is the king of Pipe by combo’ing everyone in his round six heat. The quarterfinal heats were all so close they could have been finals. Riders were jumping from fourth to first and vice versa … no one was safe until the siren sounded. The most exciting quarterfinal being the last, when Dave Winchester jumped from fourth to first in the dying
seconds with a ten-point ride at Backdoor. Winchester split the peak with fellow Australian Andrew Lester, pulled into Backdoor and came flying out of the barrel and launched a massive invert into the flats on the end section. Scoring the only 10-point ride of the final day. It was a Hawaii versus Australia final. Mike Stewart, the king of Pipe, and Jeff Hubbard, the reigning Pipe champion, up against Sam Bennett, the new kid on tour, and Dave Winchester, no stranger to wearing a rash vest in a final. In the end, the Hawaiians came out on top. Jeff combo’ed everyone in his heat for the third time that day and won for the second time in a row and fourth time in his life. Mike came second; a win would have been his tenth at Pipe. Dave Winchester came third and Sam Bennett took fourth place. No one in the final had scoring waves less than an eight-point ride. The comment that has left a lasting impression in my mind from the contest was Mike Stewart’s, when he accepted his second place trophy, he said, “I’m super stoked to be a bodyboarder today”. What happened over those three days will go down in bodyboarding history as the best bodyboarding event to date.
JACOB VANDERVELDE | PH:TROUVILLE
HUBB WINNING | PH: SACHA SPECKER
ANDREW LESTER | PH: TROUVILLE
EMMA COBB | PH: FOLEY
DAVE WINCHESTER | PH:TROUVILLE
BRIAN WISE | PH: VINCE CAVATAIO
MILES KAUHA’AHA’A | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON
PIPE CHAMP JEFF HUBBARD | PH: JOSH WILLS | WILLSYPHOTO.COM
Chout the World! Review by Jacob Romero Richard Lornie from Chout Films does it again with his newest movie, “Chout The World”. If you haven’t seen it yet, you are missing out. This film features some of top bodyboarders from all over the world killing it in destinations like Oahu, Maui, Mexico, Australia, and Canary Islands. Personally, I love the whole movie. If you watched Richard Lornie’s first movie— “Chout!”— then you’ll know there isn’t a dull moment in the newest. Just straight busting and getting huge.
SURGE LIFE | PH: JOSHUA SHELLY | FACEBOOK.COM/JOSHUASHELLYPHOTO
CHRIS SCHLEGEL | PH: ANDREW HERCHAKOWSK
Bob Baldwin, Owner of Atlantic Bodyboard Shop (AB) www.atlanticbodyboards.com
Atlantic Bodyboard Shop (AB) is an east coast based online
store dedicated to catering to the needs of bodyboarders in any region. Established in 2007, New York’s Bob Baldwin, owner, is passionate about promoting the sport, its riders, and providing his customers with the highest quality bodyboarding equipment. Surge decided to talk story with Bob to get some more insight into his life as a New York bodyboarder and the conception of AB.
Surge: What inspired you to start your own bodyboard shop, namely AB? Bob: I started Atlantic Bodyboard Shop because I felt there was a need for a shop here on the east coast. With all the other bodyboarding shops being on the west coast or Hawaii, I knew we could offer east coasters quicker and more personalized customer service, especially since shipping transit times would be much faster. All of the surf shops here don’t really know or care about bodyboarding. In terms of gear and knowledge, our sport seems like an after thought to them. They just seem more concerned about selling as many cheap beginner boards and only stock the bare minimum in terms of high-end gear. I’ve been bodyboarding all of my life and have a strong sales and marketing background, so I knew we would offer quality and dependable customer service to customers here in the US and worldwide, catering to both beginners and pros alike. Having traveled extensively up and down the coast and abroad year after year, and thrugh my experience with NYBB (New York Bodyboarding), I was fortunate enough to meet and develop solid relationships with a lot of great bodyboarders. I realized this would be a great help since many of these guys were already super supportive of the stuff I was doing with NYBB, and they have had my back and really helped spread the word over the years. Surge: How were you able to get the ball rolling with it? Bob: In the beginning it was especially difficult. I can’t tell you how many all-nighters and endless hours I put into getting it all off the ground. When I started, I still had a full time job, so
keeping up with it all was a serious juggling act and required a great deal of sacrifice. I saw the economy taking a dive and realized my current job didn’t have a great long-term outlook. I also knew it wasn’t really where my heart was and wanted to do something I truly enjoyed. Against all odds, and despite a fledging US economy, I decided to go for it and never looked back. Surge: As a bodyboarder from New York, what inspired you to get into wave riding? Who inspired you? And then, why not standup surf instead? Bob: Initially I just saw my buddies at the beach doing it. They let me borrow one of their boards and I was instantly hooked. Then as I got more serious about it, guys like Mike Stewart, Ben Severson, and Kainoa McGee really inspired me to stick with it. Back then there was a lot of peer pressure to cross over to standup surfing. All of the bodyboarders I grew up with ended up getting surfboards and always gave me shit, but I didn’t care because I was passionate about the
sport and, frankly, I always get better waves than them. There weren’t too many of us back then, and we didn’t get much respect, which is the main reason I decided to launch NYBodyboarding.com. Over the years, we were able to gain exposure and garner full respect of the local surf community, and it really helped bring us all together as friends and promote the sport. Surge: What’s the bodyboarding scene like in New York? Bob: Like other places around the world, we’re a tight-knit group and we all look out for each other. We may not have the luxury of consistent surf like some other locales, but when it does turn on, all the boys are on it and the vibes are nothing but positive. The level of talent has really improved and the bodyboarders here are usually the ones getting the best waves on any given day. We get along well with the local surf community and there’s a positive mutual respect between groups. We don’t have the same level of industry as places such as California or Hawaii, but that is one reason I decided to get PH: MATT CLARK | CLARKPHOTOGRAPHY.COM
into the business and look forward to help growing that aspect of things and supporting the local scenes up and down the coast. Surge: What are some difficulties in running the store and finding time for both family and the ocean? Bob: Good question! Being your own boss certainly has its advantages, but the buck stops with you and there is always a long to-do list. So I put a lot of pressure on myself to stay on top of the business and put my customer’s priorities before my own. That means missing a lot of good days and spending what little free time I do have with my family instead of chasing waves. I joke sometimes saying I think I made a deal with the devil in opening up shop. I used to be the guy who never missed a single swell, but now I’m the guy who is stuck in the office and find myself missing more good days than I’d care to admit. A good deal of that also has to do with being a family guy and my son getting older, but my hope is that as he grows up and the business continues to grow, I will be able to get back in the water more often and share my passion for bodyboarding with him. Surge: What makes an east coast bodyboarder different than, per se, a SoCal or Hawaii bodyboarder?
Bob: We are as dedicated and patient as they come. More often than not, our best surf comes in the colder winter months, so we have to change in the freezing cold and put on thick rubber suits, boots, gloves, hoods, and sometimes trudge through several feet of snow just to get a proper session in. We also endure excruciatingly long flat spells and frustratingly fickle sessions. Sometimes we go weeks or even months without a solid swell, and when it does turn on, it can turn off just as quickly due to sea breezes or short-lived swell since most storms tend to move away from rather than towards us. As a result, we are that much more grateful when we are blessed with good conditions, and you would be hard-pressed to find a more stoked group of wave riders. The cold and challenging conditions tend to keep the crowds at bay, so we don’t have as much problem with clogged lineups and hectic vibes as many places around the world. Everyone here is generally pretty mellow and just happy to be out there. That being said, when it does all come together, the surf can be pretty damn good. Surge: How can AB cater to any bodyboarders needs regardless of where they are from or where they live? Bob: While AB specializes in east coast sales, we have
25+ years experience in all types of conditions both here and abroad. We are fully dialed into the sport, providing professional and personalized service to bodyboarders around the globe every day. We know what bodyboarders need and want and stock the best and most current gear on the market. We offer unparalleled customer service and the best prices, so drop in at AtlanticBodyboards.com and weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be stoked to help with all your bodyboarding needs. PAU.
TOMMY PAGANO | PH: ROGER FA
This is the east coast in a nutshell for me. More specifically, New York, because of its pure isolation. There are always empty waves if you are willing to apply yourself. That’s what I love about shooting here, too. You isolate yourself in the freezing cold with nobody around, just completely focused on shooting waves. Then in the summer, it’s a complete zoo with 75 degree water and hurricane swells. It’s kind of the best (or worst) of both worlds. When the swell gets big on the east coast the ocean just rises up. Not in the same sense that Pipe stacks to the horizon, but it’s kind of like a big floodplain. When you get down to the beach the ocean is just above you as if you are looking up at it. It makes you feel tiny. Maybe it’s the raw power of the ocean’s energy. That’s why shooting from the dunes is so necessary because it’s tough to get a good vantage point. -Evan Conway
PH: EVAN CONWAY | REDDAWNPRODUCTIONS.NET
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SURGE LIFE | PH: JOSHUA SHELLY | FACEBOOK.COM/JOSHUASHELLYPHOTO
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PH: EVAN FA | EVANFA.BLOGSPOT.COM
PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY
SURGE LIFE | PH: JOSHUA SHELLY | FACEBOOK.COM/JOSHUASHELLYPHOTO
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PH: SHANE GRACE | FACEBOOK.COM/SHANEGRACE
PH: SACHA SPECKER | THESPEX.COM
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PH: GAVIN SHIGESATO | FACEBOOK.COM/GAVINSHIGESATO
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PH: TRAVIS HACKETT | FACEBOOK.COM/TRAVISHACKETT
espite the fact there are billions of people roaming the earth, it is still difficult to find down to earth people. People that aren’t afraid to be themselves. People that are just cool to others because that’s who they are. People that are welcomed when they visit and missed when they leave. Sacha “Spex” Specker of Cape Town, South Africa is one of these types of people. Spex is as talented behind the lens as he is on a board. So talented that he is one of the lucky souls that makes his living in the sport of bodyboarding as the IBA’s go to guy for photographic media. Not to mention, he’s one of the top guns at Pride. With his job at IBA and sponsorship with Pride, Attica, and Viper, he bounces around the world following his bodyboarding passion. What a life—travel the world, document it, and surf it. Even though it seems so easy to covet, of all the people that have it, Spex deserves it most.
Surge: Being from a place like Cape Town with the Indian Ocean on one side and the Atlantic on the other, there must be quite a lot of diversity in terms of surf spots, water temperatures, etc. What was it like growing up there? Spex: I actually grew up on the Atlantic side of Cape Town. There is plenty of swell and wind pretty much all year round. It’s cold. In summer the water can dip below ten degrees Celsius; which is full wetsuit, booties, hood, and then most people would still be complaining about the cold. It’s probably some of the strongest off shore conditions you could possibly surf in. It’s a land of extremes. Winter the coastline is battered by the massive swells rivaling the size we see on the North Shore of Oahu during winter. Just not as clean and lined up. Summer we lack the big swells, but when it comes the waves are incredible with amazing sandbars and reef breaks all up and down the coast. So we’re pretty spoiled for choice. Surge: So there is plenty of room for exploration in South Africa? Spex: There aren’t a lot of people surfing there compared to most coastal areas in the world. So there are a lot of tucked away places and spots that no one has been to or knows about. We do a lot of exploring, finding new waves and surfing them on our own. Which is awesome. We’re 3000 kilometers of coastline with maybe twenty perfect of it being utilized by wave riders. Surge: Do you think that it has affected the way you surf? Your ability to progress? Spex: I guess it has helped me in the sense that I get to surf a large variety of waves. I don’t get to surf with people, but progression is something you drive from within. It’s been a good place to grow up and ride good waves. Surge: How did you get into bodyboarding? Who influenced you most? Spex: I grew up on the beach, so it was inevitable. I actually started surfing and then tried a boog about three years later and liked it more. My best friends influenced me. Surge: We hear about shark attacks over there—likely because it’s always in the mind of any wave rider no matter which ocean he is in—but does it truly live up to its hype? Spex: South Africa is pretty sharky. There are certain places that are, I would say, out of control. You just don’t want to surf there. Your chances of being in the vicinity of a shark that will kill you is pretty good, so we just avoid certain
“It’s nice to get away and just get some peaceful barrels with your friends in a quiet place where you know nobody is going to judge you and give you shit for bodyboarding.”
SACHA SPECKER | PH: TYLER HARMON
“Progression is something you drive from within.”
PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY
places altogether. There are enough places where we feel a lot safer. The stats are pretty bad in South Africa considering how much people we have in the water. Surge: Yikes! So have you had any close encounters or had any friends that did? Spex: New Year’s Day 2012 I was actually knocked off my board by a shark. That was my first actual shark encounter where a shark touched me. But I have seen couple sharks in my life. I have a handful of friends who have had pretty serious shark encounters. I have a friend who has lost one of his legs from the knee down, and another that got bitten on his triceps pretty bad. I know of other guys that have passed away and been attacked on other notes, so it’s definitely in the back of our mind.
Surge: So is it predominately bodyboarding or standup surfing in South Africa? Spex: The standup surfers definitely outnumber bodyboarders when you look into the regular lineups. It’s a lot of weekend surfing when the sun is out and the weather is warm. That’s when most people are surfing anyway. Otherwise, I think we are pretty much on par with bodyboarders to surfers number-wise. Surge: Does the same sort of rivalry/ animosity exist there as it does in the U.S.? Spex: I think it’s more than rivalry and animosity; it’s more of a lack of understanding and just blatant ignorance. You know, for the most part, standup surfers in South Africa are nowhere near on the same level as standup surfers at the Australian or Hawaiian level. And they lack
PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY
PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY
to understand that South African bodyboarding is at the pinnacle of bodyboarding at this point in time. So I think it’s just a bit of narrow-minded ignorance that gets ahead of understanding what is actually going on. It gets seen as animosity and rivalry. I guess that’s what you can call it, so I guess it exists. Surge: Interesting take. It’s strange how people are always looking for a way to divide instead of unite in terms of wave riding. Obviously, you’re quite the world traveler. What’s life like for the traveling bodyboarder? How are you able to do it? Spex: It is my work to travel. I work for the IBA. I take care of the photographic media side of things. That is my work, so I guess I’m blessed to say I’m a bodyboarder and work in the industry.
Surge: Which is your absolute favorite place to return to every year? Essentially, the place you truly couldn’t live without visiting? Spex: I’d have to say South Africa. It’s the best place I go to. It’s just about as simple as that. Surge: Considering the current Churchill fad, where everyone feels they have to use Churchills or some sort of Churchill knockoff to fit in, why do you use Viper Fins? Spex: I’ve always been a Vipers fan. They just work the best for me; they don’t hurt my feet. I’ve tried all the other fins, and they just work as well. It’s that simple. Surge: Fred Simpson is the man. He is one of the most supportive bodyboarding loyalists in the history of the
PH: SACHA SPECKER | THESPEX.COM
sport. Once upon a time it was the thing to wear Vipers. I wonder when it won’t be the thing to wear Churchill knockoffs. Spex: That’s a good point you’re saying. It seems lot of style and the way you look is the emphasis of bodyboarding at the moment. Where functionality has become something people talk about and not really follow. I see guys that have been shooting and doing all sort of stuff for years on bodyboards wearing fins. And now all of sudden they are still wearing Churchills and they’re growing bunions and have huge craters on their feet. I don’t know why they’re doing it. I’d love to see the day when people are actually wearing what they really like instead of what they feel like they should be wearing because that’s cool. Surge: Having recently won the IBA Dropknee event at Pipe in February, share some of your feelings with us about winning such a prestigious event at the most coveted wave in the world. Spex: Pipe is just one of those events that everybody is striving to win and has so much prestige and hype around it. I made a few finals in previous years, so I knew I could do it; but I was super relaxed and not feeling any pressure this year. I think all just went my way. I was lucky. It still feels amazing every time I think about it. I am honored to have won it. Surge: Just in case people don’t know, you’re not only a big threat on the board but behind the lens. What inspired you to get into photography?
Spex: I thought I would be a good water photographer when I was a teenager. I actually bought a water housing before I bought a camera. So that forced me to buy a camera and get a set up. Then I just started shooting water. I just have an affinity to want to take photos, shoot photos in the water, and spend as much time in the water as I can. Surge: Over the past few years, it seems you have gained a fascination, or a strong relationship, with the shorebreak at Ke iki. Why the fascination? Spex: I guess it might be part of the photography thing to shooting clean, heavy, ledging waves. On the other side of things, I think it’s a place to get away from the chaos of the North Shore. As much as I love Hawaii, it’s a place I hate with regards to the crowds. The attitude of some of the people where it’s so difficult to get a positive response out of someone. So it’s nice to get away and just get some peaceful barrels with your friends in a quiet place where you know nobody is going to judge you and give you shit for bodyboarding. Haha! Who would have thought? Surge: Thanks for taking the time to talk story with Surge. Anyone you would like to thank? Spex: My girlfriend Rosy for her epic support and all my friends around the world, and especially the ones at home who follow me and support me. It would be impossible without them. PAU.
PH: ROBBIE CRAWFORD | ROBBIECRAWFORD.COM
Robbie Crawford has never just been an ordinary
person. He has always been unique. From his style of riding waves to his profession as a graphic designer, to his music preferences and views on life, he has always been able to see beyond the surface of things into deeper meaning. Deeper meaning that has given him a sense of understanding, of realizing things that people tend to overlook, which thus enable him to make ordinary things into unique things. So it is no strange thing for Robbie to have found a niche with the GoPro. Stepping a couple years back, there was no loss for GoPro video edits on the web, but the photo setting was a whole different ballpark. If one were to ask GoPro owners if they’d used the photo setting in the surf, most would probably be confused or not even know the feature existed. Fast forward to today with the GoPro HD 2 with its 10fps feature, and almost ever surfer and bodyboarder can attest to the potential. Even though he will never admit it, Robbie influenced the vast majority of inspired people to get into, or continue, photograpy by shooting with their Go Pro. Below are twelve questions we’ve asked Robbie. We wanted him to give the reader insight into how photography influences his unique views on life. Surge: How did you get into shooting GoPro? Robbie: I had started messing around with the surfboard at Wedge and my photographer friend Russ Hoover told me to strap one on the front of my surfboard.
Surge: What intrigued you about the photo setting on the GoPro? Robbie: Chad Stickney made me a pole so I could video my friends with it, and one day I switched it to photo mode and took a shot and it turned out pretty good. Eventually I wasn’t even videoing anymore. Surge: Do you feel like bodyboarding has given you the knowledge of how to be in the spot when shooting water? Robbie: Yeah … my relationship with the ocean is the main reason I have the ability to capture the moment. Surge: What is the most important thing you have discovered about photography through shooting with the Go Pro? Robbie: More so than what I’ve discovered about photography, it’s what I’ve discovered about life. The GoPro HD2 shoots 10 frames a second. It’s crazy that in that second each shot will have such unique beauty. It really has got me to understand that the amount of beauty that’s happening all around us at any given time is almost unfathomable. But you capture a 10th of a second of time and you stare at it and you can kind of understand a lil better just how amazing life is. God is just the ultimate artist. Surge: Interesting point Robbie. Never thought of it that way. So what sort of impact is the GoPro having on the photography and videography world? Do you think people are ready to accept it for what it truly is? Robbie: It’s impacting it in so many different ways. There’s the obvious aspect that the quality and
small size are just next level. Because of this it’s used in TV shows, major motion pictures, etc. Then there’s the price point. People that never could have gotten into wide angle action sports photography now can afford to … and that’s really cool. As far as acceptance, I heard George Lucas uses them in his filming. I guess he might sort of know what’s up. Haha! Surge: Do you feel like some people look for reasons to discredit GoPro photography and/or videography? Your thoughts on why they might think that way. Robbie: I think change can be frustrating. Especially if you’ve invested a lot of interest into learning a complicated technique that, through technology, is now simplified. I also think it can be frustrating when you’ve invested a lot of money into something and then something comes out that’s a lot cheaper and has similar results. Plus like my grandma said back in the day, “When it comes to hate, where people can find a difference, they can find a reason.” Surge: Would you ever consider swapping out your GoPro and investing in an SLR and housing? Robbie: I would like to have an SLR if they weren’t so expensive because GoPro’s do have certain limitations. I’d love to shoot night stuff with a flash. And I’d also love to shoot land stuff. But as far as investing in an SLR, the GoPro is so comparable in quality. I really can’t see the return on investment in spending five grand on a setup just so I can get the same results other than those couple aspects that really aren’t my focus. Surge: What has been your most all time session shooting? Robbie: This one day I was shooting nothing waves at Wedge, and no one was on the beach or in the water. I was just out there because I had nothing better to do. Next thing I knew these dolphins came in like five feet from shore and surrounded me. I was screaming and lifting my hands up and thanking God for the moment because I thought I was by myself. Then I turned around and there were all these people on the beach taking pictures. Haha! I was so embarrassed. But before I saw the people it was pretty magical. Surge: If you were to give 5 points of advice to someone looking to get into GoPro photography and video, what would they be? Robbie: 1) Have fun. 2) Unique lighting makes for unique pictures. 3) It’s not just the wave that makes the photo but what surrounds it. 4) Life is beautiful at times you wouldn’t expect it. Some of my favorite shots came from when I expected the least. So always be open minded to
shooting even when you think there’s not much there. Sometimes life can surprise you with beauty you never expected. 5) There are no rules for art even though people who try and put you in a box will tell you different. Surge: Do you feel like your artistic eye as a professional graphic designer gives you an added perspective on how you shoot and post process your work? Robbie: Yeah, I work with an amazing photographer Damon Kidwell at a design company. His insight as well as my own understanding of graphic programs helps me. Surge: Do you feel like shooting photos has given you an added inspiration and/or motivation to get out in the water? Robbie: Yes, it’s helped me to appreciate the beauty in the wave and not just whether it’s a wave worth riding. I think I have a greater appreciation for waves and nature in general now. Surge: Surge: Thanks for your time Robbie! Any shout outs? Last words? Robbie: Jesus, my Mom, my Wife, my Family, my Friends, Nature, Life, Love One Another. PAU.
PH: ROBBIE CRAWFORD | ROBBIECRAWFORD.COM
PH: ROBBIE CRAWFORD | ROBBIECRAWFORD.COM
PH: ROBBIE CRAWFORD | ROBBIECRAWFORD.COM
PH: GHENT SCOTT
MARK M | PH: SACHA SPECKER | THESPEX.COM
While winter means different things to diff one thing remains constant-winter means s swell intensities, and weather conditions va tests the avid bodyboarderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dedication. Fo the raw swell energy spinning straight off shorts or a spring suit. For someone in C frustrating flat spells but the chilly ice cr 3/2. For someone on the upper end of the hoody, gloves, and booties, but hiking down waves. In short, winter truly is different next. Frankly, this winter was bad for surf. B ever. Yet, it had its days. Enough days t ture attempts to share a slice of the action and in Hawaii by displaying some of the We hope you enjoy it! Until next winter.
ferent people, as wave riders in America surf. Even though the water temperatures, ary from the east coast to Hawaii, winter or someone in Hawaii it means tackling of the north western Pacific with surf California it means not only enduring the ream headache mornings with a 4/3 or e east coast it means not only a 5/4/3, n snow covered beaches just to catch a few from one American bodyboarder to the
Blame it on La Nina, blame it on whatto make it all worth the while. This fean from this winter both in California best photos we could get our hands on.
Winter In Hawaii...
PH: EVAN FA | EVANFA.BLOGSPOT.COM
Come late summer into fall, anticipation for the winter season is like fire in everyone’s veins. It’s what a lot of people live for like candy for a sweet tooth. It’s what helps people cope with summer. Unfortunately, this 2011-2012 early season has to be the worst of its kind. If not the worst, it has to be somewher e in the top three. Not only were the pitiful little pulses we received greet ed by even worse conditions, but the crowds were to the brim in anxiety. You could feel everyone’s hunger for something better while they grunted and groveled for what little food that was on the plate. It gave new mean ing to the phrase, “dog on dog.” Fortunately, January came around and gave us all a dose of what we had all been patiently waiting for. Of cour se, by this time the crowds were in full frenzy and the surfers were like cancer in the lineup running contest after contest like they always do. Swell didn’t let up, though, not even once. Everyday was a surf day. So in that sense there wasn’t anything to complain about. By the time February crept in and it was time for the IBA Pipe Pro on the North Shore, everyone was more than optimistic about the possibilities. As it turned out, the surf ended up being all time. It was some of the best, if not the absolute best, Pipe of the season. Not to mention, it was the one of the best in the contest’s history. As everyone’s bad luck would have it, someone turned off the swell facet about a week after the Pipe contest. It turned back into what everyone endured early season, if not worse. So I guess the moral of this season’s story is that despite no early or late season to mention, winter in Hawaii still has its rewards. It just happ ens that the rewards were harder to claim than usual this winter.
PAUL BENCO | PH: ANDREW RAMS
JEFF HUBBARD | PH: MORGAN HALAS
MICAH OH | PH: SACHA SPECKER | THESPEX.COM
PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY
NATE RUBIO | PH: KALE TULANG
PLC | PH: ANDREW RAMS
JAMES MURDOCK | PH: LINDSAY WARNER
MARK BALASBAS | PH: ANDREW RAMS
JACOB VANDERVELDE | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY
DAVE HUBBARD | PH: ANDREW RAMS
ALAN LAMPHERE | PH: ANDREW RAMS
JOSH GARNER | PH: SACHA SPECKER | THESPEX.COM
JOHN “BEANS” PORZUCZEK | PH: ROGER FA | RAJAHDATPHOTO.COM
GARRET ALLARD | PH: JOSHUA SHELLY | FACEBOOK.COM/JOSHUASHELLYPHOTOGRAPHY
Winter In California... By Joshua Shelly
PH: JORDAN ANAST | JORDANANAST.COM
Well, the 2011-2012 fall and winter season for Southern California was “good and terrible.” Let me start off by gettin g my negative Grinch-esque rambling out of the way. This fall was the worst fall ever. You notice how there’s a period after ever....that means ever is official and indisputable. I’ll humor you with a quick break down of how it was so awful. We were neglected to get our southern hemispher e blast like we usually get in September or October. Sure, the Santa Ana’s blew abundantly but the swell never aligned when the condition s were on. The Northern Pacific decided to give us the cold shoulder. There was nothing to be scared of in October, and certainly nothing to be thankful for in November, then December rolled around and we all got coal in our stocking.
Just as I was on a hunt to find a virgin to sacrifice, January and the first half of February shaped up to be really fun. Since the fall was so awful, it allowed for some nice sand banks to build up along the coast. The Indian summer conditions were in full effect and there was a seemingly constant pulse of swell to keep us salty and full of smiles. We didn’t really get anything massive or historic, but the constancy of fun surf and beautiful weather were quite enjoyable. I was going to continue spewing bullshit to you guys about who was ripping and what spots were going off, but fran kly you don’t look at this magazine to read words. So I’ll simmer down while you get frisky looking at some wave porn.
BUD MIYAMOTO | PH: JOSHUA SHELLY | FACEBOOK.COM/JOSHUASHELLYPHOTOGRAPHY
TOMMY PAGANO | PH: JOSHUA SHELLY | FACEBOOK.COM/JOSHUASHELLYPHOTOGRAPHY
NICKIAH SHETLEY | PH: CAMERON GUNDLOCK
UNKNOWN | PH: DUSTIN MICHELSEN
RYAN HEIMPEL | PH: JOSHUA SHELLY | FACEBOOK.COM/JOSHUASHELLYPHOTOGRAPHY
DILLON FOWLER | PH: JOSHUA SHELLY | FACEBOOK.COM/JOSHUASHELLYPHOTOGRAPHY
JACOB REEVE | PH: JOSHUA SHELLY | FACEBOOK.COM/JOSHUASHELLYPHOTOGRAPHY
PH: JORDAN ANAST | JORDANANAST.COM
THOMAS PAGANO | PH: JOSHUA SHELLY | FACEBOOK.COM/JOSHUASHELLYPHOTOGRAPHY
BEAU JOHNSTON | PH: ROBBIE CRAWFORD | ROBBIECRAWFORD.COM
NICK ARANT | PH: DAVID WOO | DAVEPATWOO.WORDPRESS.COM
It’s another typical weekday, and you’re stuck at work while it seems everyone else isn’t. They are in the water scoring surf you’ve been patiently waiting for and hoped would land on one of your days off. Of course, this time it didn’t nor does it happen too often anymore. You have projects to complete, customers to please, and bills to pay. You are a professional. Each issue Surge will highlight a bodyboarder or two out there in the work field, living a profession besides that of traveling for waves, hustling for photo incentives, and duking it out for contest results. This issue we bring you twenty-three year old Nick Arant of Huntington Beach, CA, who is an apparel graphic designer at DC Shoes. Surge: Like many avid teenagers, did you ever have aspirations to become a professionally sponsored rider? Nick: Bodyboarding was always on my mind and it was worth a shot to try to get to that professional level and possibly make a career out of it. I mean who wouldn’t want to get paid to bodyboard? But as I progressed in my amateur career I just found that I rode a lot better when I would just relax and not worry about getting photos or winning contests, so that’s when I started focusing on art/design and using bodyboarding as an escape from life on land. I will always have an addiction for wave riding and won’t stop until my legs fall off; but for my future I just decided that design was my true career calling and bodyboarding was my favorite past time. Surge: At what point in your life did you decide to pursue a career in design? Nick: I think I knew I wanted to be a designer since high school. It first started off as just freehand drawing on my old blank tees, skateboards, and school binders. As I got older and entered college I immediately directed my attention to graphic design using computers. After that it just became a long learning process of using the programs and getting hands on experience somewhere in the surf/skate industry. I have worked for a few pretty goodsized companies like New Era Cap and Flip skateboards early on
NICK ARANT | PH: DUANE UYEDA
in my career, which really helped me get to where I am at today. Surge: Why did you decide to choose this field? Nick: For me it’s always been that satisfaction you get when you see someone that you’ve never met in your life wearing something you designed or created… and knowing they valued your design over the hundreds of other pieces in the store. It just let’s you know that you are doing your job well and are making sure your paycheck is signed every other week. Surge: Describe a typical day at your job? How often do you have to reschedule your workday to fit in a session? Nick: Well, let’s pretend there is a swell this day. I would usually wake up at 5:30AM, get ready for work, and cruise down to wherever is best to check for waves, usually surf from about 6AM to 8:30AM or so to be to work at 9AM. When I arrive at DC I will usually have breakfast and start reading emails to see what my day will look like. A normal day consists of designing graphics for various things, brainstorming with other designers, and looking over product samples. I mainly work with tees and sweatshirts, but I also work a lot with various accessories and headwear. Usually have about at least two to three meetings with retailers or my director to keep up with what’s going on sales wise. After work I usually like to jump in a few pick up games of basketball with my co-workers and head home shortly after. If it’s a mellow day I can occasionally jump in the water during my lunch break but, most of the time, my surfing is done in the morning or at sunset. The hardest part is when you check Surfline or something and you can see the waves are firing and realize it’s only noon, knowing your not leaving until 5PM. It definitely took some time to control my self from getting bummed on missing sessions but you get used to it. Surge: What story or photo in any past magazine or video do you find yourself day dreaming about the most at work? Nick: I don’t have any specific ones but I constantly check Vimeo during the day when I need a pick me up if work gets tough. I usually watch any videos of Rawlins, Ben Player, or Ryan Hardy. I also get really psyched when people from CA make edits of their sessions. I always like to see spots that I surf constantly or that are only a few miles away. Gets me pumped for upcoming swells or just for a quick mind surf session. Surge: So what is your dream trip and do you plan on living it out? Nick: My dream trip would probably be to Sumatra. There have been so many insane edits of that place and looks like an epic playground for bodyboarding. After seeing it in Hardy Life 2 and some recent Joe Clarke sections, I was sold. Just me and a few friends surfing warm water wedgy reef peaks would be a dream come true. I will 100% be fulfilling this dream in the near future.
NICK ARANT | PH: DUANE UYEDA
Surge: In your opinion, how much money do you believe professionally sponsored riders should be making per year? Why? Nick: Oh man, this is a tough one. I don’t have an exact number but I think that bodyboarders should be paid around the same as professional surfers due to the fact that they are riding the same type of waves, sometimes heavier, just in a different way. I mean professional bowlers make six figures, so why can’t the high profile bodyboarders of the world make the same or even more? It’s completely understandable if companies can’t pay that much to these riders due to lack of funds, but then it becomes an issue on us as consumers to offer more support to these brands that sponsor our favorite riders. At the same time, though, I do commend those riders that stick it out in the sport and continue to ride just because they love it regardless if they struggle financially. Surge: Why is professional bodyboarding lacking corporate backing? Nick: The funny thing is that there doesn’t seem to be a shortage of bodyboarders, as I’ve seen, on days when the local news gets a hold of a forecasted swell and over hypes it. The problem is you go to bodyboard events and there are plenty of people that still don’t know that 100% bodyboard shops or websites exist. Some are not even aware that an industry exists and continually buy from surf shops that feed money back into the surf industry, which prevents the big companies from sponsoring events and riders. The companies are aware that people will buy their stuff regardless of whether they have a bodyboard team. The main thing I think that could possibly change the face of the industry is trying to reach out to these people that are not aware of where to buy gear and who to support. Otherwise riders will continually give money to the big surf companies without them sponsoring any kind of bodyboard event. Surge: What influences you the most to make a purchase on a particular item like clothing, board, wetsuit, fins, leashes, etc? Nick: With boards it’s 100% based on the shape and materials. I still haven’t locked down a good custom shape yet. With fins it’s the foot pocket width and the way it looks. With wetsuits and clothes it just comes down to fit and how they look. I will only put a leash on if I go on trips or it gets big, which doesn’t happen often. I make sure to always buy from some kind of bodyboarding company whether it be Alternative Surf or buy directly off a board brand’s website. The whole bodyboard wetsuit company thing is also really exciting; I hope bodyboarders will start buying these suits to begin the fight on the surf industry. Surge: What advice would you give to an “aspiring pro rider”? Nick: The main thing is to continue to surf for the fun of it. Keep progression, style, and focus on the foremost of your thoughts and just continue to push yourself until you reach the level of riding you want to achieve. PAU.
Passion. Addiction. De votion.
w w w. d a n e g r a d y. c o m I n t r o d u c t i o n & I n t e r v i e w b y M i k e C o o t s | w w w. m i k e c o o t s . c o m
Passion. Addiction. Devotion. These are just a few words that best describe Dane’s attitude towards photography. He was born in the sanctuary of Hawaii in 1988. Surrounded by tropical jungles, waterfalls, perfect surf and endless sunsets, he’s been embracing the island influence in his photography for six years. A style generated amongst the humble flow of ocean currents and the mellow vibe of island living, Grady is on a permanent mission seeking mystic and baffling encounters to photograph. As a child, he was introduced to the ocean through family. Tagging along to surf with both a decorated longboarder and a bodyboard guru, his two cousins Alika and Oshi gave him proper introduction to wave riding and the lifestyle early on. It wasn’t until the end of high school that Dane applied that to photography. As a junior he started out editing small surf videos but quickly transitioned into shooting photos at the end of his senior year. Today he continues to progress and expand his career behind the lens. Mike: What was the first photo you took that got you hooked on photography? Dane: First hook... had to be this gloomy, rainy day in some super small shorebreak back in ‘05. The winds were still and the water was beyond glassy. I had one of those plastic Kodak snorkeling cameras. Haha! I remember developing that roll and all of them were mistimed, unrecognizable and covered with water spots. Except for one. I was psyched on it. I stuck that picture in my binder and carried it around school. I was hooked. I’ve been shooting ever since. Mike: So you’ve been shooting a lot for quite a few years now. How has wave photography changed since you started, and what are your thoughts? Dane: That’s a good one. It’s changed 400%. It hasn’t been forever, but not too many guys were avidly shooting empty waves several years ago. The Go-Pro camera and Clark Little’s marketing explosion have definitely shifted the field recently. I think it’s great because this art is so beautiful and captivating. People are embracing it more. But, at the same time, I personally find it’s become a little less mysterious, and a lot more commercialized. Either way, the “bar” for wave photography is being pushed, and I can dig that. Mike: What is your opinion on the direction that photography is heading and its growing popularity? Dane: Technology is just going to keep exploding, and photography is standing in the spotlight. It is becoming conveniently available to anybody. I just hope the art doesn’t lose too much more soul in the evolution, ya
know? Like I almost want to see digital photography reverse towards more passion and emphasis on exposure and understanding your gear rather than having something automated gradually take over. Mike: What gets you psyched, what gets you in creative mode? Dane: Shooting in the water gets me more psyched than anything. I usually get started frothing over epic conditions and lighting, then I mix in some good tunes while setting up my gear. I like to jive some roots reggae or Thievery Corporation, then I’m good to go. I also feed off the ambiance of shooting in seclusion. Tranquility while shooting fuels me. Being on my own mission… there is nothing like being one on one with nature. It’s a buzz I constantly seek. Mike: That experience of being one on one with nature, how does that affect the style of your photography? Dane: I don’t exactly know; it’s hard for words. I would say my work says it for me. Maybe because experiences and adventures we share solo with the earth are the most powerful and influential ones. Those experiences stay with you forever. I guess that rubs off in my photos. That feeling is what I want to portray through my work. Mike: What is your fondest memory of the outdoors? Dane: Ahh… there are too many. It’s a combination of things. Some of the fondest moments are things like being surrounded by eight humpback whales in the middle of the ocean, randomly riding a jet ski outside the reefs on Kauai’s Napali coast in the dark with no lights, paddleboarding up rivers, and hiking to waterfalls. Mike: You get all sorts of spoiled living in Hawaii. Where are you right now, what’s the latest, and what’s your future? Dane: Right now I’m in California until summer time. I’m promoting my work and doing a few things with a couple different companies. It’s kind of nice having this time away from Hawaii to organize my image library, experience another world, structure things, and eat burritos. However, I can’t wait to get back to paradise and be in my element. Being here has made me appreciate home in ways I haven’t recognized before. So there are definitely some big things coming up for me from all angles. I just got to continue being passionate in what I’m doing and that will describe my future. Mike: What are a few of your favorite things to shoot? Dane: Mutant, glistening shorebreak with no one around. Creatures, chicks, sunsets, sunrises, weird stuff.
Mike: California is the burrito capital of the universe, what is your favorite kind of Burrito? Dane: Al Pastor super burrito for $5.95 with a couple ramekins of those spicy little kim chee onion things. Mike: What are your goals? In other words, where do you see yourself and your photography heading in the next five year? Dane: My ultimate goal is to remain happy and passionate. I found that if I’m more dedicated to something, amazing things happen. I’m looking forward to landing more gigs and advertisements with companies, keeping the bills paid, and continuing to strive towards a legendary career. I want to continue to grow and learn more about photography and nature in the years to come. I want to continue to experience wonders of the world through the lens. I want to continue sharing the unique beauty of the ocean with everyone. I am even expanding into fashion and portraiture. I can’t exactly say what I will be doing in five years, but I know I will be stoked with whatever I am doing. Mike: Shout outs? Inspirations? Dane: Yup! Surge for being the phresh-est of the bodyboard mags. The Boogie Nation crew and Bob Sato. Sector 9. Fred Simpson at Viper. My Family. Mike Waggoner. Variable/Light winds. Vog. Dubb and Bice. Whole Foods salad bar. Coots somehow. Thanks to Jon Mozo, Maurice Aubuchon, David Pu’u, Sean Davey, and all the legendary guys that have been shooting waves and the ocean before me. Mahalos for the inspiration! K. PAU.
PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY
JARED HOUSTON | PH: SACHA SPECKER | THESPEX.COM
Shorty Fatz | www.shortyfatz.com Introduction and interview by Nicholas Seymour
o I first heard about Shorty Fatz about two years ago when I saw a video on YouTube about the custom fixed gear bikes he collaborated on. I was pretty amazed at the framework and how stylish they looked. I was instantly determined to get one of those bikes. Unfortunately, they carried a hefty price tag, so I wasn’t able to get one for some time. Anyways, some time later I found Shorty Fatz on Facebook, hit him up on chat and found out they had switched their production to another company, which was a bummer to hear. I still kept in touch, though, and found out through Instagram (where I had been following his art) that he was coming to Hawaii for an art show on Oahu called Pow Wow. As soon as I found that out I knew I had to meet this guy. When Surge asked me about an artist profile for this issue, I was thinking about it and then it clicked… Sammy Rodriguez, aka Shorty Fatz is coming to Hawaii. What a perfect opportunity not only to meet him in person but help spread his work. I hit him up right away and asked if he would have time to link up for an interview, and he was stoked to say the least. So I present to you, Shorty Fatz…
Nic: Where are you from? Shorty: I’m from San Jose, California (South SF Bay Area) Nic: How did you get into the graffiti scene? Shorty: I got into the graffiti scene when I was eleven. I had seen tags everywhere around on buses, freeways, walls, and was inspired and curious about it so I decided to try it out for myself. Eventually I linked up with others around me and kept at it. Nic: Would you call yourself a graffiti writer or a fine artist? Why? Shorty: I define myself as a visual artist. There are always going to be categories out there because it’s how people learn to make sense of the world. However, I am vague about how I label my art. To me it is limiting to be one specific
“type” such as a graffiti writer, fine artist, or person. The reason I was originally intrigued by art, especially graffiti, is that I felt there were no rules and limitations. Since then, I’ve found there to be so many. I don’t define myself as such, though. I feel more free to do things the way I want and not be constrained to established methods and ideologies. Nic: Can you tell us about where your artist name comes from and is all about? Shorty: Shorty Fatz is the name of my art & design studio. My main source of income and survival comes from graphic design, and this is the title of my practice. The name itself comes from a character I created years ago—a short, fat
cholo. This character and stories around him were heavily inspired by a T.V. show called “Sanford and Son” (Red Foxx). Nic: Where do you find your inspiration for your art as well as your business? Shorty: My inspiration comes from music, restaurants, swap meets, bus stations, airports, people, and nature. Nic: How did going to college influence your art? Shorty: I consider myself blessed because I was able to learn from both
the streets and college. I don’t think that any one person can ever know enough. Doing graffiti was such a big learning experience that taught me so much about style and technique. Going to college introduced me to further challenges in conceptual design and ways of working that I would’ve never thought of. Both experiences gave me
the opportunity to engage with folks and community that I may not have otherwise known.
Nic: Thanks again buddy! Next time you’re here we’ll rage… guarantee. Haha!
Nic: You were a recent participant in the Pow Wow art show in Hawaii. Can you share your thoughts about it? Shorty: Pow Wow was amazing! Really, really amazing. It was so big that it encompassed the main spaces—Loft in Space, Fresh Café, and even the surrounding community. Every time I’ve traveled or lived somewhere else, I’ve grown somehow. Pow Wow is no exception. I had the opportunity to work with friends, new faces, and some artists that I’ve looked up to for years. The only thing better than this was the conversations and partying. What more could I ask for? One thing I really appreci-
ated, which happened naturally, were chats with curious locals. I’m thankful for the welcoming Aloha Spirit. Nic: Whats next for you? Shorty: I’m going to be doing a couple of shows here in the bay area. After that I will be returning to Hawaii in September for a solo exhibit at Loft In Space. I am also planning to do a body of work that involves the topic of mixed ethnicities. Nic: Any shout outs? Shorty: Shout outs to Cukui Clothing, Orly Locquiao, Jasper Wong, Aaron De La Cruz, Jesico, Lucky Olelo, Aisea (Soul Signature), Pow Wow, Kamea Hadar, Suitman, Bu Nation, Manifest, Chef Ryan, and universal shout outs to the world! Wot!? RAGE!
H S . W W W
M O C . Z T ORTYFA
HONU | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY
DA BOYZ | PH: AARON GOULDING | JAGMEDIAPRODUCTIONS.COM
STYLE IS ABOUT IDENTITY A bodyboarder’s style evolves from a number of influences. The things you allow to influence you can tell you a lot about your identity. Are you motivated by popular opinion or personal function? Are you a competitor, pleasure seeker, or artist? The answers to these questions will determine the way you arrive at your style—by technical manipulations or pure enjoyment, by functionality or pure creativity. Who are you?
JACOB REEVE | PH: JOSHUA SHELLY | FACEBOOK.COM/JOSHUASHELLYPHOTOGRAPHY
POWER IS ABOUT ABILITY A bodyboarder’s power is really his ability, whether God-given or earned. Is he able to ride waves that others can’t, hit sections that others won’t, or do maneuvers that others don’t? This is the thing that determines the level of a rider’s power. -Jacob Reeve
PAUL BENCO | PH: SACHA SPECKER | THESPEX.COM
BEN PLAYER | PH: ANDREW RAMS | FACEBOOK.COM/ANDREWRAMSPHOTOGRAPHY
TOM RIGBY | PH: AARON GOULDING | JAGMEDIAPRODUCTIONS.COM
MIKE STEWART | PH: SACHA SPECKER | THESPEX.COM
ALEX JOHNSTON | PH: JT GRAY | NORTHSHOREPHOTOS.COM
GUILERMO COBO| PH: ANDREW RAMS | FACEBOOK.COM/ANDREWRAMSPHOTOGRAPHY
DAN CERA | PH: NICOLA LUGO | NICOLALUGO.COM
JASON FINLAY | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY
JESSE KING | PH: CLARK LITTLE | CLARKLITTLE.COM
JEFF HUBBARD | PH: DOOMA PHOTOS
DEREK MIYASHIRO | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY
DAVE HUBBARD | PH: ANDREW RAMS | FACEBOOK.COM/ANDREWRAMSPHOTOGRAPHY
WINSTON McCALL | PH: JYE MCDONALD | JYEMCDONALD.TUMBLR.COM
HAPPY ZUROWSKI | PH: ANDREW RAMS | FACEBOOK.COM/ANDREWRAMSPHOTOGRAPHY
UNKNOWN | PH: SACHA SPECKER | THESPEX.COM
NICHOLAS SEYMOUR | PH: BRENT BIELMAN
JARED HOUSTON | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY
PH: GREG NIELSEN | GREGNIELSENPHOTO.COM
CORY KEISER | PH: JOSHUA SHELLY | FACEBOOK.COM/JOSHUASHELLYPHOTOGRAPHY
PH: JT GRAY | NORTHSHORESURFPHOTOS.COM
JT: Introduce yourself and the band members of your group and how the name Rootz Underground came to be. Rootz: Blessings in the name of the Most High from whom all things are possible. Thank you for your interest in our little band of minstrels. My name is Charles Lazarus, and I’m the one who plays lead on the guitar for you every chance I get. I’ve been gifted in this life to share music with the amazing Paul Smith on keyboards/ vocals, Jeffrey Moss-Solomon on rhythm guitar/vocals, Colin Young thundering the bass, Leon Campbell keeping us tight on drums, and, of course, the poetic Stephen Newland delivering positive messages with a dancing energy. Our name comes out of a time very recently (2000) where the band format was not so prevalent coming out of Kingston, Jamaica. Nowadays there has been a resurgence of bands making it happen at home. However, when we started it was very much against the grain. A sad state considering all the amazing bands that inspired us all and paved the way two decades before in the 80’s. Because we were obscure they said we were “underground.” Naturally, we played roots, which was even less common at the time. The name seemed very obvious and fortunately our good friend Shana pointed it out to us just before a show when we needed to tell the promoter what we were called. JT: Why is reggae music so infectious? Rootz: I’m sure if you asked the band individually you would get six different reasons. However, in my opinion, it’s because of the positive nature of reggae and the ever present need for that energy in the world. I like to compare the job of the musician with that of a massage therapist. They work on your aching body and renew your machine; we work on your energy and refresh your vibration. Reggae is a form of roots music and, as I see it, when we travel this beautiful planet of ours, it resonates with so many cultures. Reggae originates in Jamaica but the world has taken up the art and flavored the music with a touch of uniqueness to each zone. It’s very flattering. I didn’t even comprehend just how far and wide reggae had gone until we started touring. One thing is always consistent, and that is the love power of the people that support the shows.
JT: The talent in Rootz Underground is unbelievable. How did you guys all get together and what makes you guys click? Rootz: I’m flattered that you say “unbelievable” because it means we’re making you dance, but it’s the Most High that is responsible for what comes together and what works. We are merely his instruments. I would say each man’s love of music led us here and to one another. So much has happened since we started jamming together for fun that I can’t even remember what was in my heart at the time other than just happiness. None of us truly knew then where we would be now, or the journey that we had commenced. We’re fortunate enough to all be friends and all be conscious of the joint
sacrifice that has been made by more than just the six of us but also our family and friends as they supported this vision. And most notably we are all grateful to the Creator for selecting us for this task in this life. We strive constantly to reflect our gratitude through servitude. JT: What was your experience like performing in the Hawaiian Islands? Are there any similarities between Jamaica and Hawaii? Rootz: Hawaii is powerful. We were brought to perform by our now good friend Steven of OMNI International. It is a very special place on earth, and the people who understand that blessing are very proud of
the fact. This is the same for Jamaica and Jamaicans. It’s only natural for us to compare the levity of each zone we travel to with that of our own, and rarely do I come to a place that provokes such a desire to spend a portion of my life, if possible. Hawaii is such a place. The love of roots music is also very strong there perhaps because the island vibrations are something both countries have in common. I don’t know enough to be able to put the feeling in words but I’m confident that every local that reads this would be able to do a better job. The point is as musicians we feel the energy of the Hawaiian Islands and it lifts us up. You’re very blessed to live there JT. JT: Tell us about your last album and what’s in store for the future? Any thoughts on returning to Hawaii? Rootz: Our last album was titled simply, “Gravity,” and in truth was a very heavy body of work. Lyrically it was intense and musically it was deep and epic. As all bodies of work that are manifested in a time, it expressed what we were going through as a band and feeling in the world. I feel very connected to “Gravity” for this reason. Just like “Movement,” album before it, I can travel back in time and feel our place along the journey clearly. I’m sure all our fans and friends can relate to this. In the same way our upcoming body of work will achieve the same result. We have given it the title of the lead song, “Return of The Righteous,” and as the name implies it will be very uplifting. The world is headed in a very positive direction—the feeling is palpable. This album is very uplifting and we are excited for you to also experience it. We know we have made it to a place where we can serve you positively once again. JT: Talk about some of the influences in your life and in your music. Rootz: This is another thing that makes our little band of musicians special—we all come from very different musical backgrounds with reggae as our common denominator. With that blessing we bring so many gifts from all around to the table of reggae music for you to taste. There are slivers of all sounds found in our music with that solid foundation of Jamaican reggae drum and bass for us to build on. Again because there are six of us it makes no sense trying to speak for another be-
cause I can only represent myself in further detail with honesty. I love the wind. I love the waves. I relish the sound of tree frogs and crickets during the gloaming hour. I am inspired by my country and the amazing things we have managed to achieve, especially in the creation of music. I’m proud of us and I want to live my life in a way that allows others to carry the baton of our music even further. Jamaica is my second greatest influence. Jah is my first. I dedicate all my work to the Most High. JT: What message are you trying convey to people? Rootz: Love. JT: Who would you like to thank out there? Rootz: I was in the Kingston Airport a few months ago heading to Europe for some shows when Paul pointed out that “Family Man” Barrett was sitting across from us. As you know he was the bass player for Bob Marley and was there during the journey beside Bob and creating those amazing melodies you all have come to know and rely on. They transport you away from harsh realities and comfort you in difficult times and they awaken the revolution that burns inside all the conscious soldiers out there. Well, I would like to thank that great man. Without all the struggles that he and all the Jamaican musicians of the time faced, I’m sure I would not be able to be giving this interview now. JT: Where can people find your music and more about the band? Rootz: The beauty of this modern electronic time is that you can all come along for our adventures. Naturally there’s Facebook & Twitter, but as a hub for all our activities you can always just go straight to www.RootzUnderground.com. We handle all our social media personally. Message us and we will be responding to you directly. You’re our friends and we appreciate your support along the journey. JT: I heard Rootz Underground is involved in some environmental cause as well. What is it? Rootz: YES! I would like to call attention to our main project that we have been working tirelessly towards for the last few years—The Rootz Releaf Project. We started out by encouraging our family, friends, and fans to plant trees, GPS tag the trees and send us photos so that we could mark them on the Google Earth API we have on our site. Each tree works as a vote for our project and allows us to go to corporate and push to support funding various tree planting machines. We are happy to report that in association with our partners at La Reserva Foundation in Costa Rica, we have planted 70,000 trees in the last two years since 2009. Now planting trees is not a revolutionary or new concept, but believe me it’s very vital. Sometimes it’s the fact that a thing is simple which allows it to never get done. Please take some time and visit www.rootzunderground.com/releaf and see what we are about. At present we have a concert series titled “The Rootz Garden” which will be happening in Jamaica throughout this year in aid of various environmental charities.
JT: Any last words… Rootz: We all love this planet in our unique ways. I love my waves and my ocean. It is our responsibility to create awareness, especially with the voice His Majesty has blessed us with. Jah love. PAU.
PH: ALEX VERHARST | PHOTOGRAPHY.VERHARST.COM
PH: MARTIN JUSTINEVICIUS | GLIDEPHOTO.COM
PROFILE SHOT | PH: ROBIN GUERRERO
acob and I go a little ways back. I first met him at Half Point, Sandys about seven or so years ago. He had just recently moved from Maui to Oahu to go to college. He was not a household name in bodyboarding quite yet, but he definitely had a distinct flare to his riding and the potential to go all the way. At least that was the talk in the lineup. He was young, though, so his potential could have easily been lost in the new found freedom away from home. Fortunately, Jacob has always had a good head on his shoulders with his sights fixed on bodyboarding. Instead of letting his studies and work distract him, they kept him in balance. For how busy his schedule was, he always put in enough time to sharpen his skills wherever the surf called him. If it meant driving straight to the North Shore after doing a graveyard shift, surfing for a few hours and then heading back to town for class and then another work shift, he was on it. Very few people are as driven, as passionate about bodyboarding, to make those sorts of sacrifices. Jacob’s drive has been paying off. Let’s not be naïve of his success, though, because Jacob’s achievements as a bodyboarder have never just been handed to him. He has worked really hard. He has been through his fair share of board sponsors and, considering the industry of today in America, sacrificed things few are willing to. The most inspiring thing of all is that he isn’t letting up in his stride either. His sites stretch even higher and he won’t be letting up until he gets there. Surge: Yo Jacob! Can you give the readers a summary of your life from the past four or five years to now? Jacob: The past five years have been crazy. Turbo gave me a great opportunity to travel. This is my fourth year with Turbo. I’ve been traveling, chasing the tour basically. I’m trying to qualify for the tour and working side jobs. I work so many side jobs to just try and travel. It’s been hectic but good. Actually, it flew by really fast. Feels like I just signed with them yesterday. I’ve learned a lot. Just keep going and keep it going as long as I can. Surge: Like they say, time flies when you’re doing what you love to do. Do you feel like you’ve been able to achieve goals you set when you were younger? Jacob: Yes, I’ve achieved most of those goals. I’ve achieved what I wanted to achieve on the US Tour. I feel like I can win it, for sure. But my main goal was to get on tour and travel and compete with all those JACOB FULL TWEAK | PH: DOOMA PHOTOS | FACEBOOK.COM/DOOMAPHOTOS
guys. That’s actually my main goal. I feel like I’ve been falling short. Basically, my main goal growing up was to make the tour and become world champ one day. But I’m taking baby steps. I need to qualify first then I can go for my world champ goal. Surge: Speaking of the tour, what are your thoughts on the IBA and where it’s going? Jacob: It’s going great! They are doing a great job with the media and webcast. I think what you saw last year will keep growing. It’s going to get huge. I love seeing it grow. Surge: Since you have experience with the tour, could you enlighten people on what they are looking for, in terms of judging criteria, on the world tour? Jacob: For me, I’ve watched it for the past three years. A lot of people tell me to do this and to do that. I think the judges really want to see the set waves, bottom turn, and hitting the lip or getting barreled and coming out and doing a maneuver. Basically, they want to see a bottom turn into the maneuver. Really critical sections. They have been rewarding guys hitting big lips and not landing actually. With clean drawn lines into your maneuver. Surge: Just to give people a clear view of how it is for someone like you who is chasing the tour, what’s the price you have to pay in order to do what you’re doing? Whether that being trying to get on tour, scoring waves, etc? Jacob: The price is, at least in my shoes, I don’t have money when I travel. I work my ass off to save money, but I’m broke. That’s one of the biggest prices I have to pay—I have to scrap while I’m traveling. As for scoring waves, for example, when you travel in Australia you might drive ten hours to surf one wave and you don’t know if it’s going to be good or not. Plus, the crowds get hectic. Like at Fronton it can get hectic. So many bodyboarders, but that’s their break. Like when people come to Hawaii to surf Pipe. Surge: Has this choice to live a professional bodyboarding lifestyle been worth it? Jacob: I think it’s a good choice. I know I made a lot of sacrifices. Moved back home to live with my parents. Work side jobs. Not one day, not one single time in my life do I look back and think, “What am I doing? I should be working and saving money.” I like this lifestyle and want to keep doing it as long as I can. I feel like I have a lot more years to go. Surge: Well, it seems like it’s starting to pay off considering your recent 3rd place result at the IBA Box Pro (GSS). Can you give us a summary of the event and how you felt throughout the event? Jacob: The Box Pro was awesome. It was my first time to WA, and it’s a beautiful place. I loved cruising there and bodyboarding some of the spots in WA. It was sick.
PH: SHEA SEVILLA
PH: MITCH NIBBS
The Box event was epic. I started off in the 3rd round of the trials and ended up placing 4th in the trials at Gas Bay. I was amped for the main event at Box. For some reason I felt really comfortable out there. I was feeling great the whole event—focused and confident. I wanted to win, of course, but getting 3rd in my first GSS event was insane. I had really good support at the event as well that made me push it even harder. David Hubbard was my caddie for the last day of the event, and just hearing his voice in the channel cheering me on made me amped and push it even more. Surge: How about that invert you did in the semi? Going for broke, uh? Jacob: Yeah that invert was insane. I wish I would’ve landed, and I would’ve been in the final, for sure; but it’s all good. I didn’t know it was going to fly me out that far into the flats. I was thinking of bailing, but I was like, “Fuck it! I’m going to try and land this. I’m in the semis.” You can say, go for broke, for sure … I thought I was going to get hurt but ended up being fine. Woohoo! Surge: With all the sacrifice required to live this lifestyle, how do you keep everything in balance? Jacob: When I’m home I just try to spend as much time with my family, my friends, and my girlfriend. When I’m on the road, it’s super different. So I try to Skype my girlfriend, my family, and friends. Basically, when I’m not traveling I want to be at home—the barbeques, family breakfast, just being with them 247. That includes my girlfriend, for sure. I try to cherish those moments. They really rejuvenate me when I’m home.
PH: ROMERO OHANA
Surge: Agreed. Family first. Do you ever get homesick? Jacob: When I travel I don’t get homesick. I mean I do in certain ways but not to the extent where I’m like, “I want to go home.” I love to travel. Don’t get me wrong, there are times that I get discouraged when I lose a heat. Like when I’ve flown somewhere like Puerto Rico and lose my first hit, sometimes I think, “Why did I even come here? I could have just gone somewhere else and just surf.” But this is what I want to do. Every time I lose, I just try to talk to my girlfriend, friends, and family. They keep me grounded, keep me going. PH: ROBIN GUERRERO
Surge: Do you feel like the people you travel with have become somewhat of a family away from home? Jacob: Yeah, traveling with the Hawaii guys and South Africans, too. Like Jeff, Dave, D-Phil … D-Phil is cool to travel with. Just really positive guys. I usually hang with them, talk to them. You have to travel with a good bunch of guys because it’s gets tough on the road, and they keep you up when you’re down. Surge: Given your history in the sport, you definitely know PH: ROBIN GUERRERO
“The thing that makes Jake such a special person is his likability, his positive attitude, his simpleness and his love for life. Look, when Jake was young he was so quiet that his teachers wanted to put him in ESL classes (english as a second language) even though he was born and raised in HI. Now he has everyone talking his own crazy language. I don’t think I can go to the beach without hearing someone say zones, hags, somehow, and source. He is always talking about how amazing life is and very rarely shows any type of hate or aggression towards someone else. It amazes me on how much different people from around the world come by the house to hang with Jake for a couple of weeks during the winter but after thinking of the type of person Jake has become I think of how much fun people are missing when they don’t stop by.”
PH: MITCH NIBBS
what is needed in order to make your sponsors happy. What would be your advice to someone looking to get sponsored? Jacob: My advice would be to bodyboard as much as you can, and do as many contests that you can. The kids on Maui are sometimes like, “Well, it’s only one foot.” I them they need to do the contest. Growing up my brother and I did every contest we could. You build your profile that way through contest results. It’s how you show yourself to the public. Like if you’re cocky, you’re a jerk, you’re humble… that’s what people will see. Basically, it’s about just keeping your mouth shut and letting your riding do the talking. That’s what I tell everyone. You have to work your way to get free boards. You have to work for what you get. Surge: What has been your experience with sponsors from the beginning? Jacob: It’s what I thought it would be like. There are some sponsors that want you to be free surfers; there are some that want you to follow the tour. From the grom days, my first sponsor was Custom X and I knew I had to do contests to build my profile. It wasn’t just about free surfing. Surge: You have a blog—www.jacobromerohags.blogspot. com. Why did you start it? Is this something that bodyboarders should do in order to please their sponsors? Jacob: I started the blog for myself at first. I did it so I could look back and see what I did. It wasn’t my sponsor’s idea; it was just my idea. It just started going and getting a lot of hits. Sponsors do like that. My sponsors do, so they had everyone else start one, too. Surge: Tell us about your upbringing in Waiehu, Maui and your influences in bodyboarding. Jacob: My upbringing in Waiehu was pretty good. We had a close bunch of friends—Kona, Riley, Shea, my brother, my cousin—all went to school together and lived in the same area. We surfed every day. The junk thing is there are only rights. Most Maui guys can only go right, so that’s sort of the downfall. It’s still good. I can go left, but there are mostly rights in Waiehu. My influences were the Maui guys that started it all, like Leroy, Jimmy, Chado, Mikey McGuire, Evan. They all surfed Churchez, grew up in Waiehu. Growing up in Waiehu was probably the best thing that could happen to me, for sure. Surge: Jonah, your little brother, took a step back from bodyboarding to pursue a career in the Navy. How do you perceive his life choice in comparison to your career pursuit in bodyboarding? Jacob: Growing up, like when I started bodyboarding, I was a head minded guy. When I set goals and I want to accomplish
PH: JACOB & ROBIN
“I think Jacob is a very special individual. He has this amazing attitude that is just infectious. You can’t help but smile around him. No matter what kind of day or outcome of a contest he has, he manages to find a way to be positive about everything and spread it. I think we could all learn a thing or two from him.” Robin Guerrero
them. I wrote down my bodyboarding goals on a piece of paper, saying I want to do this and that. That goal turned into this goal, and that goal turned into another goal. I feel like I won’t stop until I achieve what I want to do. As for my brother, when we were talking about this situation he told me he achieved all the stuff he wanted to achieve in bodyboarding. He always knew that I would keep going with what I’m doing. I respect Jonah for that. He still bodyboards, still rips. It’s just that I wanted to keep going and haven’t achieved what I set out for myself as a kid. Surge: Who are the most under-rated bodyboarders in the world? Jacob: There are a lot of people, but I don’t see David Hubbard and Dave Phillips in the mags as much as they should. There are a lot of under-rated Hawaiians that rip super hard and don’t really care to be the mags. Like Derek Miyashiro rips super hard. Surge: Who would be, in your opinion, the most underrated younger bodyboarders on Maui? Jacob: Ummm … Kahekili Labatte, for sure. Even Kona Kuailani, Kingsley Uaiwa, and Nic Drose. A bunch of west side guys as well, like Joel, Bryce, and Kaleo. Surge: For those that are curious, what does all this stuff about Hag, Hagi, Hags all about? Jacob: This whole thing started like about two years ago. Jeff started “guy,” or “Guy Hagi.” I heard it from Jeff when he said, “Hey, what’s up Guy Hagi!” Then it evolved to Guy Hag, Hags, Hagatron. It is really complicated, but we got it from Guy Hagi, the weather man on channel 9 news. It was a Kauai-Maui thing. So everyone started calling me Guy Hags, so I used it on my blog. Surge: What is the Hagastand? Jacob: The Hagastand is just like a handstand but with your hands in prone-ing position. Haha! Surge: Do you think it will ever become a go to maneuver in bodyboarding? Jacob: No, I don’t think so. Haha! Surge; Haha! Where do you see yourself in five, ten, fifteen years from now? Jacob: I see myself still following the tour. Married, for sure, with a kid probably. I really want to stay on tour as much as I can make money doing it. If I don’t make the tour in five years then I’ll probably get a job, for sure. Then just bodyboard and not travel as much. Surge: What do people not know about you that they ought?
Jacob: Everything that I say on my blog and Facebook is me, but one thing people don’t know about me is that I used to dropknee more than I proned growing up. Like DK 60% and 40% prone. Surge: Lastly, let’s give a plug to your sponsors. Jacob: Turbo Bodyboards, The Foam Company, Flip mode clothing, and Surge BodyBoard Wax.
PH: PABLO JIMENEZ | FLICKR.COM/PHOTOS/PABLOJIMENEZINTERNATIONAL
SEAMUS M | PH: SACHA SPECKER | THESPEX.COM
PYPER LUELLEN | PH: EVAN FA | EVANFA.COM
DK WARS MAUI | PH: MARTIN JUSTINIVICUS | GLIDEPHOTOS.COM
We had a week to decide on a spot for DK Wars four man team event. We free surfed our asses off to get prepared for battle. I gave the riders their jerseys the day of sign up so they could get video and photographs and thus establish themselves as a team through the waiting period. Honolua was owned by bodyboarders on the inside bowl with the help of a retarded puppy named Kili-monster. Mark Silva handing out third degree spankings to goons with no aloha … protecting the groms and wahines while getting his own shacks. Maui was full of surprises, but the biggest surprise was the underground talent pool. I wish I could name all the kids that were there—so technically sound at such a young age. Eager, willing to learn, and open minded to a creative way of riding. When it came down to choosing a spot to hold the event, we really wanted to do it at the harbor but the ocean said, “no,” so we made a group vote to where we would do this event. The majority went for Pakuz with a few going for
Ho’okipa point. So the cars and trucks and everything went off in the direction of the zone, which is just a pile of river stones along a shoreline mixed with barnacles and vana so dense I was a little fearful of getting carved up. It’s happened before so my awareness was at a ten. Place had peaks going everywhere. Like a Trestles in Hawaii with more peaks and crafty outside reforms and who knows what lurking around. The best wave I saw ridden was by Cole Hansen. He sat in a rare long shack and came out with a tight spin and slid right back in again, and then bolted down the line and nailed a small oncoming section. Evan Ka’aihui cleaned a lip face off like it was Friday the thirteenth. Doing tight carve reverses with wakes of spray going out the back. Then you had a few sightings of Miles Kauhaahaa and Jimmy Hutaff, throwing in a solid performance on sections. Bobby Kaiwi was also on a style master tear. His brother, Leroy Ka’iwi was holdin’ ground as well. They family’d a peak and split the thing down the middle like a samurai sword. Day-
ton Wago and Kingston were the newer faces throwing down stylish turns and smooth lines in critical spots. Sacapanio, the local battler, was going bonkers with his own style and flow. Multiple spinners into full rail carve slides. I don’t even know how to describe some of the stuff he was doing … double knee backflips for starts. What? It’s on the tapes on my wall or go to ustream.com and search for Maui DK Wars and you’ll see. There were so many teams and colors in the water. To think I started this little firebug. It was surreal. Family Affair, blue team, was fun to watch. Leroy was smooth as ice out there, and Bobby, his brother, was another slick individual in the water. Their two cousins were going at it, too, splitting peaks and demolished as a team. Liquid Courage, yellow team, from Waimanalo, Oahu, was on fire all day. They did team work sessions where one would go out and fire the other one up for a few hours, and then another would come out with an extra team mate and so on and so forth. Definitely a smooth tactic.
In the end, our winners for DK Wars Maui were Family Affair in the four main team division and tie for solo between Cole Hansen and Evan Ka’aihui. All in all, it really couldn’t have been a safer event with teams doing the buddy system and crews meeting each other and friendships being made. Of course, then there were the spectators enjoying surfing the zone as well. This is how a beach event should be. PAU.
JIMMY HUTAFF | DK WARS MAUI | PH: MARTIN JUSTINIVICUS | GLIDEPHOTOS.COM
CHAD O MILITANTE | DK WARS MAUI | PH: MARTIN JUSTINIVICUS | GLIDEPHOTOS.COM
DK WARS MAUI | PH: MARTIN JUSTINIVICUS | GLIDEPHOTOS.COM
LEROY “DA LANDLORD” KAIWI | DK WARS MAUI | PH: MARTIN JUSTINIVICUS | GLIDEPHOTOS.COM
MIKE BRUM | PH: EMO
PH: GHENT SCOTT
What DK means to me? It’s the hardest way to ride a wave, the hardest stance to do on a board. It’s the ultimate challenge. Ever since I was a young grom I loved to DK. Kainoa was my idol—DKing at Pipe and Bowls. Also, Aka, Roach, and Buder… all those guys inspired me to dk. It just looked so sick. I started out surfing as a kid and couldn’t afford a surfboard but got a hold of a bodyboard at like 11 or 12 and loved it. I still remember the first floater I landed and my first DK barrel. Both were at my home break where I learned how to DK. Some of the spots I would watch the older guys ride were heavy slabs with crazy drops, and I always would think, “I can DK that!” It took years of practice but it all paid off once I was able to. A lot of the underground guys from Kauai pushed me a lot since I was a kid. Cass, Ghandigan, Sasha, and the rest of the crew. DK is what put me where I am today in the bodyboarding world. Guys like Dubb, Mase, Lackey, Cass, Micah, and Leroy are doing amazing things with their DK skills. And the younger guys like Miles from Maui (who killed the DK event at Pipe two years in a row), Sammy, and some other groms from Kauai are killin it. Living here in Cali with my wife and kids, I have seen some sick DK skills. Sean Taggert was killin it at one of the DK Wars events in La Jolla, Wally has been killin it every time I see him out, and that kid Dillon was ripping it at Seal… just a lot of talent everywhere. Stoked to see DK growing and more people doing it. -Bud Miyamoto
BUD MIYAMOTO | PH: JOSHUA SHELLY | FACEBOOK.COM/JOSHUASHELLYPHOTOGRAPHY
DAVE WINCHESTER | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY
SPIRIT HERRINGTON | PH: KAMAILE O
TOMMY PAGANO | PH: JOSHUA SHELLY
DEREK MIYAHIRO | PH: EVAN FA | EVANFA.BLOGSPOT.COM
MICAH “DA HAMMAH” MCMULLIN | PH: ANDREW RAMS | FACEBOOK.COM/ANDREWRAMSPHOTOGRAPHY
JUSTIN MEDEIROS | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY
NICOLA LUGO | PH: KOLTON
LEROY “DA LANDLORD” KAIWI | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY
ADAM DUMAS | PH: JOSHUA SHELLY
JOHN GIBSON | PH: EVAN FA | EVANFA.BLOGSPOT.COM
SACHA SPECKER | PH: HOUSTON
PH: NICOLA LUGO | NICOLALUGO.COM
ANTICIPATION | PH: ANDREW RAMS | FACEBOOK.COM/ANDREWRAMS
For far too long it’s been easy to push the young guys aside. Maybe it’s because some of them are still in their pubescence. Maybe it’s because some of them can be obnoxious. Maybe it’s because some of them are actually everything that we wish we were. Whatever the reason, they aren’t slowing down so let’s make peace with the youth that will take everyone’s place in the years to come. This feature is dedicated to the next generation of riders ages 21 & under. While emphasis has been placed on American riders, Surge was able to lock down profiles of various riders from regions around the world. Unfortunately, not all of them. Not even close. For that reason, Surge must acknowledge the many riders that didn’t make this feature. Be it in America or abroad. Whatever the reasons, Surge hopes to showcase you in a similar feature in issues to come. Without further ado, Class of 2012.
MATT HOLZMAN Kekaha, HI
Name | Matt Holzman Age & DOB | 18 & 10.26.93 Home | Kekaha, Hawaii Spot(s) | Kealia, Pipeline Sponsors | Science, Gyroll, Viper, Nukumoi Surf Co., Boogie nation Travels | North Shore, Puerto Rico, New Jersey What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? Pretty much everyone knows everyone, so we share the ocean’s rhythm and have fun. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? Another option was never an option to me. I’m in love with riding waves on the boogie! Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? DHub, for sure, with his unique creative approach to riding waves and versatility. Skipp because of his cool and calm silky smooth style. He’s probably my favorite bodyboarder other than Jeff and Mike. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? My goal is to at least make top nine on the world tour. Claim a USBA Pro title, win a few world tour events, and have many good memories. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? Tahiti because it’s like home—the people are nice, it’s simple living, everyone’s not obsessed over material items, and I would like a fat juicy Teahupoo nug! What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? Mind surf. Anything dealing with the ocean like fishing, diving, sand slithering. Play in the mud. Maybe do some homework if I’m lucky. Mystical exploration adventures to a pristine location are always fun.
MATT HOLZMAN | PH: SACHA SPECKER | SPEX.COM
NICKIAH SHETLEY Dana Point, CA
Name | Nickiah “Creek Boy” Shetley Age & DOB | 16 & 12.16.95 Home | Dana Point, California Spot(s) | Spots in southern OC Sponsors | Toys bodyboards, 662 Mob, my parents Travels | All of southern Orange County, La Jolla, Seal Beach What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? Life as a bodyboarder in the southern OC is kinda ruff ‘cause there aren’t a lot of good breaks, but when it’s good it’s pumping. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? I chose to boogie because I love to be by the beach. Since I can’t stand that good I chose bodyboarding. Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? Eddie Solomon influenced me a lot ‘cause he basically gave me my first board. Also, my best friend Colin Secor ‘cause he’s the one who pushes me to the next level on everything. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? I’m hoping to travel to Mexico by this summer, and by next winter I wanna go to Hawaii. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? If I could pick anywhere in the world I think I would wanna go to Indo ‘cause there are so many breaks that are perfect. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? When the waves are flat I like to hangout with girls at the beach, and when it’s night time I like to rage.
NICKIAH SHETLEY | PH: CAMERON GUNDLOCK
CHAD VILLARIN | PH: MIKE CERRONE
CHAD VILLARIN Kona,HI
PH: EVAN FA
Name | Chadbourne Villarin Age | 21 Homeland | Big Island Spots | The Point Sponsors | None. Mother nature for the waves. Travels | No where but Hawaii What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? Life as a bodyboarder growing up on the Big Island is pretty reefy. Not too much sand for you to just ramble your board on to. The crowds are epic to none most of the time, and you pretty much know everyone. I wouldn’t have wanted to grow up anywhere else but Big Island. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? I played soccer for a while but sorta just blew that off and went for bodyboarding because it was all on me. I like the part of being in the water where it’s just you and the waves. All my friends were into bodyboarding so I just went with the flow of things. Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? No Friends was probably the biggest influence for me and bodyboarding. All the boys who will always be there to yell at me and make sure I boost it or pull in thick. And anyone out there that is pushing the limits of bodyboarding to new heights that will always push others to do the same. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? I don’t know what the future has in store for me, but no matter what it is I know I will always be on a bodyboard. It would be sick just to make a name for myself and earn the respect. Contests don’t amuse me as much as free surf. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? Tahiti, for sure. It’s one of those places you travel to and still feel like you never left home. Plus the waves are all time along with the people. Big barrels and endless pads to launch. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc.)? When the waves are flat there is still choke to do in the ocean. Fishing, diving, rock run, and skip rocks is just a few. Anything to make the time fly by until the next swell arrives.
SEBASTIAN PEREZ Dana Point, CA
PH: EVAN FA
Name | Seabass Perez Age & DOB | 19 & 3.6.92 Home | Dana Point, California Spot(s) | Salt Creek, Wedge Sponsors | Empire Bodyboards, Ally swim fins, Axiom Travels | Indonesia, Hawaii, Mexico, Korea What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? It is pretty good actually. I like the waves a lot. It’s not world class stuff but it’s good times to get techy on waves at the Creek. Other then that, it’s good times hanging with all my friends. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? Just fell in love with the boogie. Was kind of hard to move on to surfing or any of those other water sports. Eddie Solomon was one of the big influences for riding the bodyboard. Love that guy lots … did so much for me. Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? I’d Andre Botha say is one of the bigger influences as well as Eddie Solomon. I like his style of rushing and skill. There are others that influenced me as well, such as Savoji, Skipp, Hubby. There are just so many, but those are the main influences. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? I guess you can say my main goal is to ride bigger and technical waves, and travel a bunch. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? Tahiti so I can get Teahupood. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? Work, party with friends, people watch.
SEABASS | PH: ANDREW RAMS
BAS | PH: COBUS BOSMAN | SHEEPALIGN.TUMBLR.COM
BAS KOOPMANS Cape Town, South Africa
PH: WARREN BAYNES
Name | Bas Koopmans Age & DOB | 17 & 11.4.94 Home | Melkbos Strand, Cape Town, South Africa Spot(s) | Tube Wave, Derdersteen Sponsors | Pride, Attica, Melkbos Surf Travels | Canary Islands What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? In Cape Town, me and my mates live for the early mornings and long drives up the coast on the weekends. The west coast of South Africa is my favorite place—cold, dark water with large slabs and endless beaches. It’s paradise in the middle of nowhere. Bodyboarding is misunderstood in SA. It’s seen as a sport you do if you cannot stand up surf, but our presence is growing big time and we are enjoying the fruits of the southern tip of Africa big time. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? I enjoy it so much more than anything else! I love the feeling of a heavy thick wave picking me up and letting me scoop down the face into a big keg. It’s so much more exhilarating than anything else. That grin you have on your face after a epic surf says it all. Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? I like to have a broad spectrum of riding and style that I keep in the back of my head. Mixing and matching what is the most stylish, fun, and enjoyable. Growing up in Cape town watching Jerry surf has always given me positive influence and helped on my riding. Growing up on the same waves and spots as him, Spex, and Mark Mccarthy— who are the coolest guys in the wateh. They are always messing around and having a good time, friendly and helpful … love surfing with these guys. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? I would like to travel as much as possible, compete overseas and make it into the GSS one day. Who knows? I’m looking forward to everything. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? I would like to go to Oz. I have a few Saffa mates that live there, or who have traveled there, and it just looks like such a sick place with such sick waves! Hawaii and Mexico are also super high on my list. The beach cricket contests and waves in Hawaii look like the biggest blast ever. I don’t know where I would go, I want to do it all. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? I SUP, down hill skate board, go crayfish diving, and chill with mates.
TREVOR KAM Honolulu, HI
PH: EMALIA ZUTTERMEISTER
Name | Trevor Kam Age & DOB | 19 & 2.1.93 Home | Honolulu, Hawaii Spot(s) | Sandy Beach and The Zone Sponsors | Science Bodyboards, MS Zipper Fins, and Gyroll Leashes Travels | Maui, Big Island, Kauai, California, New Jersey, and Puerto Rico What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? It’s very difficult to stand out because there are so many good bodyboarders here in Hawaii. Also, the crowd here on Oahu is very heavy. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? Well, I started off surfing and moved to bodyboarding because it seemed like there was no limit to progressing and it was just more fun. Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? A big influence on me in bodyboarding is Aka Lyman because he always encouraged me to do better when everyone else did not believe in me other than my parents. He pushed me to get better but having to learn the ways of bodyboarding on my own like maneuvers and how to read waves, etc. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? Pipe Champ and maybe win the World Title. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? I’d travel to Rarotonga ‘cause the culture there is unique and rich. Plus I heard the surf there is epic. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? Play X-box, cruise it with the boys, and play basketball.
TREVOR KAM | PH: WADE SAUNDERS
JB HILLEN Waianae, HI
Name | JB Hillen Age & DOB | 19 & 6.6.92 Home | Waianae, Hawaii Spot(s) | Spots around home and North Shore Sponsors | Science Bodyboards, MS Viper, Spunjah Chronic, Sukebe Incorporation, Heights Productions. Travels | Canary Islands What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? Life as a bodyboarder where I’m from is an original place. Everybody does it but not everybody takes it to the next level and serious enough to not just make it a hobby but make it a career. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? I chose bodyboarding over any sport in tha world because I love to do it. Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? Believe it or not, but my sister influenced me to jump on a spunj. My dad pushed me from there and what made me who I am now is watching my number one idol, Jeff Hubbard. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? One thing that I will accomplish before my days are done is to land a double backflip. If not that, bodyboard Tahiti. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? One place I dreamed of going and will turn that dream into reality is to go to Tahiti. Why? Because Tahiti has the most perfect waves I have ever seen. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? If there are no waves, I’m either training, eating good (or trying to), spending time with my fam bam, and skating hills with Lisa Katsura. Nuff said.
JB HILLEN | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON
RYAN FRAZZETTA | PH: MIKE CERRONE
RYAN FRAZZETTA Long Beach, CA
Name | Ryan Frazzetta Age & DOB | 17 & 4.29.94 Home | Long Beach, California Spot(s) | Seal and 40th Street Sponsors | Since my family and I own Alternative Surf, I guess you could say I’m sponsored by AS. Travels | Hawaii What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? Bodyboarding is pretty much under the radar around here. Also, don’t get the best waves all the time but it definitely has its days. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? I loved waking up early and getting that first wave before sunup. Bodyboarding is such a unique sport that you can influence your riding with so much style and define yourself in your riding. I am hooked! Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? When I was just starting, I definitely looked up to the old Alternative Surf crew. Jeremy Wright was always super stoked and Nick Arant’s style was always so smooth. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? I definitely want to keep pushing Alternative Surf to be the best bodyboard shop around! It will definitely be fun to see where it can go. I really want to travel and get good waves around the world. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? I would probably go to Tahiti. I always see their waves over there, and they have such diverse waves. Especially after watching Within, they have good waves for sure. Plus getting out of a 4/3 would be nice, too. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? I definitely don’t like sitting around. When I am not working at AS, I’m usually out mountain biking or at the gym. Taking the pup to the dog beach is always a good time as well.
ALAN LAMPHERE | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON
ALAN LAMPHERE Hawaii Kai, HI
PH: KRISTY KAKU
Name | Alan Lamphere Age & DOB | 20 & 5.18.91 Home | Hawaii Kai, Oahu Spot(s) | Sandys, Pipe, OTW, & “The Zone” Sponsors | Science Bodyboards Travels | Around the Hawaiian Islands, California, New Jersey, Indonesia What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? Being a bodyboarder is somewhat of a relaxed dream. What place is better than Hawaii to grow up and be a young, inspired bodyboarder. The weather is nice, the water is warm, and the waves are unreal. It’s also stressful to surf NS and not only try to gain respect from other bodyboarders, but the surfers as well. Also, as a bodyboarder, I wish the scene was bigger than it is. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? I chose bodyboarding because it is a challenging and versatile sport that I became addicted to during middle school. On a bodyboard you have the option to prone, drop knee, stand up, or skim. I just can’t get enough of any part of it. Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? The bodyboarders that influenced the way I bodyboard are my friends, such as Mike Stewart, Jeff Hubb, Dave Hubb, Jacob Romero, Jonah Romero, Leroy Kaiwi, Keoni Haina, Nate Rubio, BULA, Keahi Parker, Patrick Akana, and Jay Uehara. My family also influences me a lot with all their support, and without it I wouldn’t have made it this far. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? Some things I hope to accomplish in bodyboarding are definitely a lot more traveling for contests and to explore different countries while bodyboarding. Another accomplishment would be to have a world title and be out there competing with guys on the world tour. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? If I could travel to anywhere in the world my choice would have to be Tahiti because the waves look too damn good—from heavy/shallow barrels, warm water, and mega ramps. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? The things I do when the waves are flat are hiking, skateboarding, swimming, diving, diving off things, and hanging out with my friends.
TRAVIS SMITH | PH: JAMES HENNESSY | bulimicbarbarians.tumblr.com
TRAVIS SMITH Kauai, HI
PH: JAMES HENNESSY
Name | Travis “Trigger” Smith Age & DOB | 19 & 12.10.92 Home | Kilauea, Kauai, Hawaii Spot(s) | Pine Trees Sponsors | Boogie Nation Travels | California, NYC, NJ, Singapore, Hong Kong, New Zealand, Australia, France, Italy, Cook islands, Tahiti, China, Indonesia, and Philippines. What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? I love it! There really aren’t many of us from Kauai, mostly the Boogie Nation crew. Lately, I’ve been noticing more young groms coming up, which is cool! Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? Well, my brothers and I started being around the ocean at a young age, and we all started bodyboarding. Time went on. When my brothers started surfing, I tried it and it wasn’t for me. So I got pretty into bodyboarding and started realizing the benefits of bodyboarding. Bodyboarding heavier waves at a young age with my brothers was something really cool. I would go bodyboard a crazy suck up makeable shorebreak while my surfer friends were surfing mush somewhere else. My little brother Koa surfed the waves I bodyboarded a lot. That’s why he gets critical these days in crazy waves! Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? I really think the talent level on Kauai in unreal! I get to surf with the Hubbard brothers every once in a while, which is amazing. There are a few local guys that are really big inspirations to me—Oshi Grady and Kepa Kruse. The whole Boogie Nation crew is classic and they all rip. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? It’s hard with our industry being small compared to surfing, but I love competing and free surfing glassy waves. I’m happy with just that. Bigger goals would be to do some tour events in the near future. I could really see myself helping out with some events with judging or directing in the future as well. I think it’s really important for up and comers to do all the contests they can. It’s a great way to get your name out there. I honesty think bodyboarding is going to be huge. The IBA World Tour this year was incredible. I’m pretty into watching the ASP surfing tour as well, and I thought the IBA was way more entertaining this year for the first time ever. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? I would love to spend one month down in Tahiti. I went when I was 12 and surfed huge Teahupoo and didn’t get anything. I’ve been thinking of that wave ever since that experience. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? I’ve been training a lot—running and lifting weights. I feel so much more comfortable in the water and I consistently feel good.
SEAN DEVARIAN | PH: JORDAN ANAST | JORDANANAST.ZENFOLIO.COM
SEAN DEVERIAN Dana Point, CA
Name | Sean Deverian Age & DOB | 18 & 8.27.93 Home | Dana Point, California Spot(s) | Wherever’s barreling Sponsors | Empire, Ally, Axiom Travels | Hawaii, hopefully Aus soon. What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? Hard. Waves are rarely good and usually crowded, but you are always waiting for that planned surf trip to come. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? Because I saw my brother doing it and it looked cool. You can hit more lips and ride a wave differently than a surfer could. Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? I would probably say Hubb. He’s just the man and launches like no other and still somehow lands them. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? I would say a cover shot would be a great goal to accomplish before I die. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? Umm … probably somewhere in Aus. The waves are great there and hot chicks. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? Basketball with friends or any sport really. I really enjoy girls if I can get them.
COLLIN GODDARD | PH: JEREMY PHILIPS | JEREMYPHILLIPSPHOTOGRAPHY.COM
COLLIN GODDARD San Clemente, CA
PH: MIKE BAIN
Name | Collin Lee Goddard Age & DOB | 18 & 6.21.93 Home | San Clemente, California Spot(s) | Croplies Sponsors | Catchsurf - Division71 Bodyboards and Stealth Fins, ebodyboarding.com Travels | Hawaii, Mexico, Indonesia, Taiwan, Japan, Arizona What is life like as a bodyboarder where youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re from? I live in a small surf town with a lot of really talented surfers, so being a bodyboarder is pretty interesting. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? It just seemed the most fun. Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? Tom Prince with his control and power. I also like the way Ben Player surfs. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? Change Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s view on boogie boarding and just keep progressing in the water If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? Ahh, maybe London. Place looks cool. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? Skateboard, spearfish, mischief with friends.
PH: MIKE CERRONE
CALVIN CERRONE Kailua Kona, HI
Name | Calvin Cerrone Age & DOB | 12 & 3.6.00 Home | Kailua-Kona, Hawaii Spot(s) | Honlâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and secret spots on the Big Island Sponsors | Science, MS Viper, Gyroll Travels | Hawaiian islands What is life like as a bodyboarder where youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re from? Everyone is really supportive of the groms. There are many good young bodyboarders on the island. The waves on the Big Island are made for bodyboarding. We always on a 4&4 mission to secret spots. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? I have always had the most fun bodyboarding and I really have a passion for it. Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? My dad, Mike Cerrone, is an amazing bodyboarder and photographer. He coaches me in competitions and pushes me to charge. Keahi Parker has helped me a lot to put myself out there and get promoted with Science and the bodyboarding world. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? I want to travel the world as a professional bodyboarder, charge heavy waves, and compete in the USBA and, later on, IBA. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? I would choose to go to Tahiti for the big blue barrels. Plus my dad has hookups there. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc.)? Training, school, and homework.
CALVIN CERRONE | PH: MIKE CERRONE
KEKOANUI KAUAHI-DANIELS Makakilo, HI
PH: “DAD” GREG DANIELS
Name | Kekoanui Kauahi-Daniels Age & DOB | 12 & 4.29.99 Home | Makakilo, Oahu Spot(s) | Kewalos and westside spots Sponsors | None What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? Started bodysurfing at about five years old at White Plains in the shorebreak. My dad bought me a Walmart board and some fins when I was six. I used that board until it could barely float anymore. Then when I was ten my dad bought me my first real LMNOP board. That’s when I started getting more serious about bodyboarding. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? I like the feel of the drop and pulling into the barrel. I’ve also met a lot of friends and gone to some cool spots with just my dad and me. Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? My dad and my uncles. I look up to the Kamehameha Surf Team’s coaches, too. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? I’d like to also get better at surfing so I can bodyboard and surf. I want to come out of big barrels and launch fat airs. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? So far I’ve gone to some spots on the North Shore. I think of the North Shore as an adventure even though it’s only forty minutes away. Maybe one day my dad will take me to Kauai if I’m lucky. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? I like to play video games and chill with my friends. I should clean my room but I’m too lazy.
PH: “DAD” GREG DANIELS
PH: “DAD” KEKAI PAULSON
KAYA HOKUA PAULSEN Mililani, HI
PH: “DAD” KEKAI PAULSON
Name | Kaya Hokua Paulsen Age & D.O.B | 9 & 2-14-03 Home | Mililani, Oahu, Hawaii Spots | V-land, Waimea rivermouth, inside bowl at Chuns, Malaekahana Beach breaks, Lani’s, Waikiki Walls, Kewalos, and secret spots Sponsors | None Travels | So far, the farthest is Makapu’u. Outer islands are definitely on the horizon. What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? Not many spongers at my age but I have had a lot of people ask about my age and when I started. Especially when I go to Waikiki Walls. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? I started out bodysurfing Waimea rivermouth when I was five. I almost got an in an out one day and my dad told me if he had a sponge under me, I would of came out. The next time we went to the beach, I gave the sponge a shot. It was all up hill from there. Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? Jeff Hubbard, Mitch Rawlins, Dave Hubbard What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? I want to gain knowledge and understanding of the ocean. Also, to take the lessons learned and apply them to life. The ocean is a great mentor to have. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? Lucky we live Hawaii because it rarely goes flat. It’s more like when I need a change of pace, we go stand up paddling, bodysurfing, play basketball, ride bike with friends.
MIKE BAIN Virginia Beach, VA
Name | Michael Holloway Bain Age & DOB | 19 & 1.18.93 Home | Home is where the heart is. Currently living in San Diego. Grew up in Virginia Beach, Virginia. Spot(s) | Bread in the Outer Banks, NC. Cruising So Cal at the moment. Sponsors | Division 71 and Stealth Fins (by Catch Surf), Zion Wetsuits US. Travels | Up and down the East Coast, South Carolina to New Jersey. Puerto Escondido, Mexico, Costa Rica, and the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii. What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? Life as a bodyboarder in Virginia Beach is pretty tough. Pretty much still looked at as, “You can’t stand up?” It’s mainly because there are no waves suited for bodyboarding over there to put on a real display of our sport. The only way to get good waves to boogie is a multiple hour drive north or south. There is a small crew of guys dedicated to making it happen, though. When the stars align and the sandbars form, that is when bodyboarding is on. Sick barrels to ramps with just you and your buddies out. Sometimes there might not be anyone else in the water for miles. It is all about passion over there. You have to wait through some really long flat spells and then go on a mission to score. After putting in the dedication to surf, you really learn to appreciate the waves while they are in front of you and just to ride for the love of it. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? I grew up by the ocean, but I was more into field sports when I was really young. Standup surfing never really intrigued me. I think I saw No Friends’ video Lost Cause when I was like twelve and thought, “Woah, these guys are going huge. That looks so fun!” So once I tried it out, I was hooked from the beginning. The connection of our bodies to the ocean is fascinating to me. Being able to subject our bodies to the raw power of the ocean and Mother Nature feels like being in another world to me. Standing up on waves is really fun, but the connection just isn’t the same. Surfing a hollow wave with a bodyboard feels so natural. It is such a rush to be putting yourself into a new challenge of really intense situations back to back and making it out on pure instinct and feeling. Going deeper, bigger, faster. There is always huge room for progression. There is such a huge measure of experience to be gained from the lifestyle that goes along with it. This is what I love. Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? When I first got into the sport, I would say I was influenced most by Mitch Rawlins and Jeff Hubbard. Jeff simply because he was going massive. I wanted to go big in anything I chose to do and he set a clear example of what was possible in bodyboarding. By watching him, I always knew whatever was done, could be done bigger and better. I
saw Mitch Rawlins surfing so powerfully and making it look smooth. Linking moves and flowing so well on a wave that it looked natural and easy. That’s what I wanted to do. But aside from me dreaming, Ricky Miller was a huge influence on me as a younger kid. He took me under his wing and would take me down to the OBX to surf with the boys when it was on. He took me on my first real trip to Mex Pipe when I was sixteen, and it was a real eye opener. It was huge having him there in such a critical stage of development. I was able to learn by constantly cruising with the older crew, get my mind in the right place, and get going in a good direction. Above all though, God is my biggest influence. Surfing in the ocean is a really pure and blatant connection from Him to me. It is hard to find the words to explain it, but I believe we are in His hands out in the ocean, simply. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? I hope to travel, meet, and experience as much as this world has to offer. I want to go where I have not been, see what I have not seen, and meet anything I have not encountered. I want to be able to inspire people and be inspired. I want to leave an impact on people and have an impact left on me. There is so much more to learn. Bodyboarding is my ticket. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? One place, seriously? Haha! Although Tahiti is definitely on the top of my list for destinations to make it to, I have had my eye on some amazing looking set ups somewhere in Indonesia. It would be a full on journey to go score there, and I would love to make the adventure. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? Fortunately, with a car there is almost always something to be found. I like to cruise and appreciate what is happening at the moment. Finding a new way to interact with the day all the time. I try to stay healthy and fit, so I regularly include some sort of exercise into each day. I love to get creative. Drawing, writing, brainstorming, planning. Even just going out and exploring. I have been working a fair bit over the last couple years to save up some extra coin to travel. Restaurants, crew work setting up for music shows (putting up the scaffolds, speakers, lighting, wires, etc), working as a dock attendant with all sorts of boats, jet skis, and water equipment. I also work as a camp counselor and teaching surf lessons in the summer had to be most fun, for sure.
KAHEKILI LABATTE | PH: WADE SAUNDERS
KAHEKILI LABATTE Maui, HI
PH: MATT CATIGLIONE
Name | Kahekili “Special K” LaBatte Age & DOB 17 & 1.2.95 Home | Lahaina, Maui, HI Spot(s) | Honolua bay, Kharbs Sponsors | Turbo Bodyboards, Alpinestars, Hi-Tech Surf & Sports Travels | All Around Hawai’i, Cali, and New Jersey What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? Life as a bodyboarder on Maui is fun. It’s great to see bodyboarding blowing up so much everywhere on Maui. The waves are pretty good, too. Whenever it’s small it’s pretty crowded, but when the waves get huge that’s when all the bodyboarders shine. I swear there’s no crowd at all … it’s great. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? From when I was young I did every sport from wrestling to basketball. I even started surfing before I finally got on the boogie. I chose bodyboarding because it was cool and a lot of my friends were doing it. Then I just got hooked and fell in love with the sport! Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? As of right now I have to say Jacob Romero and Jeff Hubbard! Jacob because whenever he takes me surfing I get inspired to keep pushing myself to get to his level. I just get inspired on how hard he tweaks every move. Jeff because how huge he goes no matter what! What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? Get on the GSS and maybe get a world title! If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? Australia, for sure. The waves look so epic, and they have rights and lefts. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? School work, workout, video games have been ruling my life, though, recently. Haha!
ADAM WAITES Durban, South Africa
PH: TYLER WALKER
Name | Adam Waites Age | 19 Home | Durban, South Africa Spot(s) | Bronze Beach, North Coast reefs. North Beach Sponsors | Thiel Board Company, Network9 Travels | Around South Africa, Canary Islands What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? It’s great. There is great wave variety, and it’s pretty uncrowded. In town, there are a lot of fun quality beach breaks and, with everyone surfing and the crowds watching from the piers, it gets super competitive. It’s a good environment to push your riding. If you get out of town on the north and south coasts there are some world class reefs to rush. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? My primary school had bodyboarding after school and not surfing, so I guess it started there. Who, or what, influences the way you bodyboard the most? I was influenced Andre Botha’s crazy old stuff, like in No Friends 4. My brother and I always surf together, and I spend most of the time competing with him. Now I’m more influenced by super tech riders like Joe Clarke and Dallas Singer. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? If I can travel around the world to bodyboard I’ll be living the dream. Don’t really mind if it’s trips or contests. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? Vietnam … I could just disappear for a few months and take it all in. Apparently there are some fun waves to be found there as well, so it sounds like a pretty sweet deal. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? A bit of downhill, work on my website, some swimming and bodysurfing to stay fit.
ADAM WAITES | PH: TYLER WALKER
BRYCE JACINTO Lahaina, HI
Name | Bryce Jacinto Age & DOB | 20 & 3.26.92 Home | Lahaina, Hawaii Spot(s) | Lahaina Harbor, Ironwoods, Honolua Bay Sponsors | Custom X, Lahaina Crossfit Travels | Oahu, California, New Jersey What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? Life as a bodyboarder where I’m from is starting to grow now days. It’s a life style to many here. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? My best friend Joel got me into it and I just fell in love with it. Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? My friends always push me, and bodyboard flicks always are inspirational. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? I hope to accomplish competing in the IBA World Tour and travel the world. And the cover of a magazine! If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? I would travel to Australia to surf their amazing waves. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? I’m usually working one of my jobs, doing some crossfit, frolfing, or hanging out with my family, friends, and girlfriend.
BRYCE JACINTO | PH: WADE SAUNDERS
MAX RUSSELL | PH: CARLOS SANTA | CARLOS-SANTA.TUMBLR.COM
Max Russell Newport Beach, CA
PH: ALEX CONDON
Name | Max Russell Age & DOB | 18 & 6.25.93 Home | Newport Beach, California Spot(s) | Wedge Sponsors | Custom X Bodyboards Travels | Hawaii What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? Searching for waves until summer south swells start filling in. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? The local beach where all us groms grew up was a fun shorebreak so the boogie came naturally. Who, or what, iinfluenced the way you bodyboard the most? Andre Botha’s insane charging and Mitch Rawlin’s perfect scoops. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? Becoming comfortable in any conditions in the water. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? West Australia for perfect empty beach breaks and sharky slabs! What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? Chill with the boys, parties, chase after chicks, skating, and Xbox 360.
ERIC PIERCE Dana Point, CA
PH: CALEB BURNS
Name | Eric Pierce Age & DOB | 17 & 3.8.94 Home | Dana Point, California Spot(s) | Salt Creek, secret wedges Sponsors | Parents! Looking for sponsors. Travels | Hawaii What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? It’s pretty tough man. Surfers think that they are all good enough to compete on the world tour and it’s nearly impossible to get a good, uncrowded day. At least we have a few Laguna Beach wedges that the stand ups tend to stay away from, but then you have to deal with the “world class” skimmers. To sum up the So Cal boogie scene, I’d say we don’t get any respect and are not taken seriously, but hopefully the up and coming groms will help put us on the map. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? My dad is a former surfer. He actually had me in the water at the local beach ever since I was five, but I would never go out if the waves were over two feet. I was this way until about 7th grade until I met some cool friends who were starting to go more often and take it more seriously, which got me into it. Watching all the old Mike Stewart footage at pipe also got me super amped to try the sport! Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? The boys Brandon Nasr and Omid Moraveji push me super hard to get better and better with each session. If I hadn’t met Brandon at driving school I would have not gotten so serious and probably would have quit awhile back. So big shout out to the crew. Love you guys. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? I hope to get a few sponsor stickers on the bottom of my board and surf the best possible waves for bodyboarding in the world while I have the chance to. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? NSW, Australia. If I got to surf good Box Beach, Aussie Pipe, and Nuggan Point, I would die a happy and achieved man. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? I play baseball, which actually occupies most all of my time when I’m not out in the water. We do tend to get a lot of flat spells here in Cali, but we try to find the most decent of waves that we can while it’s small. I also like to cruise around on the Sector 9 and just have fun times with the boys.
ERIC PIERCE | PH: CAMERON GUNDERLOCK | FACEBOOK.COM/CAMERONGUNDERLOCK
NICOLAS DROSE Paia, Maui, HI
PH: DANIEL KAUHAAHAA
Name | Nicolas Drose Age & DOB | 16 & 4.26.95 Home | Paia, Maui, Hawaii Spot(s) | Hookipa, Paia Bay, Ledges, etc. Sponsors | God, parents, Manta Body boards, Pod Fins, The Foam Company, 808 ALLDAY clothing, and Dizm eyewear! Travels | All over Hawaii, West Coast, and East Coast. What is life like as a body boarder where you’re from? Life’s good. Some ups and downs but I can’t complain. I got some of the best friends because of bodyboarding. Definitely changed my life Why did you choose body boarding instead of another sport? I chose bodyboarding for obvious reasons. It’s the most fun you could possibly have, but also because some of the coolest people do it and it’s easy to fall in love with. Who, or what, influenced the way you body board the most? My sister’s boyfriend got me my first body board DVD, Leroy. Also, I would watch a video of Miles Kauha’a’ha’a everyday that really got me into it. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? To know someone got into the sport because of me, and to be known as a positive influence, but at the same time have fun every day in the water! If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? Mexico because the waves out there look too fun, or Tahiti because it’s a nice place and I hear the people there have true aloha. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? Working at Foam Co. or bombing a hill somewhere.
NICOLAS DROSE | PH: DANIEL KAUHAAHAA
DAVIS BLACKWELL Mandura, Western Australia
PH: NATHAN TYACK
Name | Davis Blackwell Age & DOB | 15 & 3.14.96 Home | Mandurah, Western Australia Spot(s) | Mandurah Wedge Sponsors | Turbo Bodyboards, Unite Clothing, Reeflex Wetsuits, Inverted Travels | Well, at the moment, I’m in Hawaii. For the rest of the year I will be following most of the Aussie tour events and trying to get overseas as much as I can. What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? In Mandurah, it’s not too bad. There aren’t heaps of people bodyboarding, but still enough people to do the local Mandurah Bodyboarding Club which is pretty cool. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? I chose bodyboarding because it is what I enjoy doing the most. Who, or what, iinfluenced the way you bodyboard the most? Kings video’s—The Joker 1 and 2—always gets me super amped before a surf, so I guess that influences the way I bodyboard. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? In the future, I hope to travel and surf the best waves all over the world and have as much fun as I can! If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? I would travel to Mexico, because it has perfect beach breaks. Also, it’s the home of tacos, and tacos are my favorite food. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? When the surf is flat I’ll be hanging out with friends or at the beach playing around on a soft-top surfboard. Haha!
DAVIS BLACKWELL | PH: CHRIS GURNEY | CHRISGURNEY.COM.AU
JARED BROWN Yorba Linda, CA
PH: TOSH DEMELLO
Name | Jared Brown Age & DOB | 21 & 6.12.90 Home | Yorba Linda, CA Spot(s) | 40th Street Sponsors | Alternative Surf Bodyboard Shop, Science Bodyboards, Creatures of Leisure, CAVA Apparel, Reeflex USA Travels | Hawaii, Mexico What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? Besides getting hassled by surfers and living 30 minutes from the beach, it’s good! Living way inland has always had its down falls, but in a way it’s pushed me to better myself. I’m really stoked I grew up in Southern California because we’re all a tight nit group. Everyone pushes everyone and everyone knows everyone. Definitely going to be a lot of talent coming out of Cali in the next couple of years. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? It’s just something I grew up doing with my dad and brothers and eventually just fell in love with it. So, in a cliché way, it choose me. Haha! Plus, no better feeling then getting shacked on a sponge. Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? So many people have influenced me throughout the years it’s ridiculous. If anything, it would have to be my 40th family. I owe a lot to those guys, for sure. Not only them but my brother Justin as well. If it wasn’t for him pushing me I’d still be kooking it. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? I hope to accomplish a lot. My main goal is just to keep progressing. This sport is growing so fast with people and new tricks that we as bodyboarders constantly have to keep pushing ourselves. Getting more photos and footage is also on my to do list. Also, being on the world tour eventually would be sick. Oh yeah, can’t forget … making Alternative Surf bigger and better. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? If it was surf related, Indo for obvious reasons. Haha! If it was for fun—Europe. Always been into traveling and both those places just offer so much. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? Well, if I’m not working, which is rare, I try to stay as active as possible. Lots of hiking and skating. Photography has always been fun to do when the waves aren’t that great. Whooping my family in ping pong has suddenly become my latest time killer.
JARED BROWN | PH: CARLOS SANTA | CARLOS-SANTA.TUMBLR.COM
ALEX BROWN | PH: AARON GOULDING | JAGMEDIAPRODICTIONS.COM
ALEX MAKAI BROWN Kalaheo, Kauai, HI
PH: JASON BROWN
Name | Alex Makai Brown Age & DOB | 19 & 9.27.92 Home | Kalaheo, Kauai, Hi Spots | Nukumoi, Black house, Heroins Sponsors | NO.6, Pull-in underwear, See You Never clothing, Nukumoi Surf Co., Surge BodyBoard Wax Travels | New Jersey, California, HI, Africa, Europe What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? Kauai is amazing place to be a bodyboarder. Small island with a plethora of spots and wave conditions make this a wonderland for this sport. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? For a Kauai local the ocean is a way of life. My middle name, Makai, means “by the ocean,” and I grew up doing all kinds of water sports. I have so many uncles who have inspired and encouraged me and my entire family surfs, bodyboards, dives, and fishes as a lifestyle. I have focused on bodyboarding because I find it the most enjoyable and extreme. Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? My dad, Jason Brown, would have to be the biggest most influential person in my bodyboarding philosophy. His attitude on life, in general, is do it the best you can or don’t do it at all. Next would be my uncle Chris Burkhart who shares my dad’s attitude and explains their friendship. Mike Stewart draws the best lines I’ve ever seen, and Jeff Hubbard puts things together like no one else. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? My dream and goal is a world title and nothing short of it. I train and practice for this goal alone. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? Australia! Too many mutant slabs and ramps plus guys that know how to go big. I think I could learn from them and then one day represent HI properly with all those dream waves. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? Train. Free diving, swimming, longboarding, hiking, camping, hunting, soccer, the gym, trampoline, work, run.
JOSH SUMAIT Hau’ula, HI
PH: EVAN FA
Name | Joshua Adam Kamakanamana’olanaalohalani Sumait Age & DOB | 19 & 4.12.92 Home | Hau’ula, Hawaii. Spot(s) | OTW, V-land, and spots around home. Sponsors | None Travels | Big Island What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? Life is pretty chill on the North Shore. Super tight crew with da boys out here … everyone knows everyone and we take care of each other. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? I chose bodyboarding because it was way more fun than running around on a field. It looked way more fun than surfing, and something pushed me to just be different. Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? Always looked up to the boys: Bradda Michah, B-Willz, and Asa guys. Back in the day they pushed me to go hard and charge and get up on the knee. I figured that if they’re from the eastside, and they can do it, I could guarantee get there one day. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? I would like to turn pro one day and surf all over the world. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? I would have to go to Cloud Nine. Barrel fest, for sure. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? Gotta love playing jah’s music.
JOSH SUMAIT | PH: MAKANA CHAFFEE
ALVINO TAPUAI Papeete, Tahiti
Name | Alvino Tupuai Age & DOB | 21 Home | Papeete Tahiti Spots | Teahupoo, Taapuna Sponsors | 662 Ride Shop Tahiti, OSIRIS Tahiti, Teva import. Travels | Hawaii, outer islands of Tahiti What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? I think that Tahiti is a perfect island for bodyboarders. The waves are amazing all year, we have all kind of spots that work on different swells, and it’s always exiting to surf with some friends that charge. It makes you want to push your limits. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? I chose bodyboarding because my friends were going to surf near my home in Papeete. At the time, I just wanted to have fun. Then a couple years later my cousin Tahurai Henry invited me to surf Teahupoo. We had so much fun that day that I wanted to surf it again and again. A couple of months later I went to live there with Tahurai and his little family. That’s how the story began. Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? Simon Thorton was definitely the guy that I watched from the beginning. He is the guy that inspired me the most. It’s incredible how he surfs the place. He is charging so hard with so much control. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? In the future my goal is to travel arround the world. I really want to go to Australia to surf different waves compared to what we have here in Tahiti. I also want to progress in the big wave surfing. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? If I had the chance to travel, I would like to do a surf trip in Australia because it’s a place where you can surf so many good waves. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? When the waves are flat, I’m taking care of the 662 Ride Shop. I do some exercise to keep myself in good shape. During the weekends, I like to go out with my friends and have fun. There is always a cool party to go to.
ALVINO TAPUAI | PH: ERIC SHINITZER
SHAWBAZ SOAIA | PH: EVAN FA
SHAWBAZ SOAIA Kailua Kona, HI
PH: MIKE CERRONE
Name | Shawbaz Soaia Age & DOB | 16 & 9.29.95 Home | Kailua-Kona, Hawaii Spots | Magics Point, Banyans, Old Az Sponsors | Science, MS Viper, Gyroll, OGBC Bike Company, Momentum. What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? Cool people and talented riders everywhere. All you can do is excel and wanna bodyboard all day. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? I chose bodyboarding because it feels awesome when you’re in a different zone besides on land where anything can happen at any moment. Definitely always keeps you wondering. Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? Mike Stewart and the way he charges influenced me the most along with Jeff Hubbard and his crazy airs. Definitely all the Big Island bodyboarders I watched sitting on the beach when I was younger. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? What I hope to accomplish in bodyboarding would to become a big wave rider and explore the world making videos and hopefully win a one world title one day. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? If I could travel to one place in the world it would have to be all of the Pacific Islands one by one because they are heaven on earth and have some of the best waves and nicest people. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc.)? What I do when there aren’t waves is hunt, hike, and ride my fixie bike around for exercise. Maybe a jog now and then.
KUA SALINAS Kailua-Kona, HI
PH: MIKE CERRONE
Name | Kua Salinas Age & DOB | 15 & 12.27.95 Home | Kailua-Kona, Hawaii Spot(s) | Magics and Banyans Sponsors | Science, Millers Surf and Sport Travels | Oahu, Maui, Kauai. No where outside of the Hawaiian chain yet. What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? It is really underground. There are many hard rippers and everyone kills it, but it can be scary at some moments at certain breaks. They regulate really hard especially when it’s big and the waves themselves are on the rocks, so you have no escape. Everyone is always looking forward to surfing because we rarely get good waves, but when we do we all take advantage of the opportunity to surf unbelievable waves. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? We are all waterman in my family. The ocean has been a part of my life since I was very young. Truthfully, my dad was the main reason I started to bodyboard, though. He inspired me to start bodyboarding and helped and guided me so I could learn the rules and how to position my hands on the board. If it weren’t for him I would be no where right now. Who, or what, influenced the way your bodyboard the most? My dad influenced me the most. He always tried to talk to me to start something new and consider surfing, but I just blew it off until one day I realized I was missing out and that I should actually start to go and surf. I had a blast the first time and then I took the step to get better equipment to improve my riding. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? I want to become a professional bodyboarder and travel the world and learn different cultures and discoverer new places. I want to travel to beautiful places and surf exotic untouched waves. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? I would want to travel to Tahiti because of their beautiful waves, exotic island beauty, and big huge waves with spitting caves. But also to surf with Tahitian bodyboarders and meet new people and learn their culture. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc.)? I like to stay active when there are no waves. Training such as running, swimming, lifting light weights, and staying active any way possible. You have to have a great lung capacity when you are a surfer, so the swimming and running kick in a lot. PH: MIKE CERRONE
CHRISTIAN SEKAS Newport Beach, CA
PH: CHRISTIAN SEKAS
Name | Christian Sekas Age & DOB | 20 & 7.6.91 Home | Newport Beach, California Spot(s) | Wedge is the spot, but I love to anywhere with good friends and wide barrels. Travels | Hawaii and Southern Baja What is life like where you’re from as a bodyboarder? The bodyboarding scene seems to be growing in Southern California. The shops in South County are getting tons of young kids stoked and in the water. It is good for the industry. As a bodyboarder in a lineup of surfers, I can always sit on the inside and snag a few good ones. With the exception of a few select spots that are really good for bodyboarding, Cali keeps me happy on my sponge. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? I was always more entertained as a kid by pulling into barrels at the shorebreak than surfing mushy “Old Man’s” or wherever my dad would take my brothers and me. I surf now when the waves are small, but nothing compares to bottom turning into a heavy one you’re not going to make. Who, or what influenced the way you bodyboarding the most? I love the way Mike Stewart and Spencer Skipper surf. Their style is sick and seems to have come naturally from how they learned to surf. I never forced myself to cross my legs like a lot of kids seem to do. If it does not happen naturally it is not your style. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? Not hesitating at the next ramp I have will be a big enough accomplishment for me. Bodyboarding is an avenue for me to enjoy God’s creation. I love it and hope to get some good ones this summer. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? I think Tahiti. The bodyboarders there seem to be stepping it up, and they have the waves to push the limits. The fishing is unreal, the waves are good, water is warm, and the people welcoming to visitors. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? When the waves are flat I hope for clear water. Spearfishing is something I love doing. It is a lot different from bodyboarding, but it is another great way to enjoy the ocean if you can handle the frigid water and the pesky seals. My master passion is for sure growing in the knowledge of the God who radically changed my life—Jesus Christ.
PH: BRETT WINNERS | HAOLEWANTPOUNDPOUND.BLOGSPOT.COM
JOEL STEEN Kailua-Kona, HI
PH: WADE SAUNDERS
Name | Joel Steen Age & DOB | 20 & 6.19.91 Home | Lahaina, Maui, Hawaii Spot(s) | Lahaina harbor,Iron woods, Honolua bay and a few others Sponsors | None Travels | I have been to California once. What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? It’s pretty mellow but it can be hard at times. Like most places the majority of the people in the water are surfers, and it can be kind of awkward when you are the only bodyboarder in the line up. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? I chose bodyboarding because I grew up going to shorebreaks, and I thought it was pretty awesome. Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? I would have to say my friend Bryce influenced the way that I dropknee, but who influenced my riding the most is a tough question. I look up to a lot of riders. My friend Kupai really kills it and throws chunks that I can only dream of doing one day. On the pro level I like watching David Hubbard, Kim Feast, and Bud Miyamoto. Their styles are mind blowing, and I am always taking notes. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? Maybe place in a couple of contest, get into a couple of solid videos, and I definitely want to get a board sponsor. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? I don’t really have a specific place in mind but somewhere with glassy hollow barrels and launch pad sections sound good. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? When there are no waves I usually hang out with the girlfriend. skate, lift weights, go running, and I also have a bad habit of collecting things.
PH: THOMAS GAY | OCEAN ALLIES | FACEBOOK.COM/OCEANALLIES
TANNER MCDANIEL Kauai, HI
PH: TIM HAMILTON
Name | Tanner McDaniel Age & DOB | 13 & 2.28.99 Home | Kauai, Hawaii Spot(s) | Inside Waiohi Sponsors | Science Bodyboards, Gyroll, MS Viper, Kona Red, Poipu Surf Travels | Most of the Hawaiian islands, California, New Jersey, and Puerto Rico What is life like as a bodyboarder where youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re from? Well, I live on the south side of Kauai so in the summer time the waves are pumping almost every day. When the winter comes around I have to travel a little farther to get waves on the north or west side. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? I started out at a local beach break where you were only allowed to bodyboard, so once I got into it (putting on fins and using a leash) it seemed like the best option. I also feel more free with the moves, flips, spins, and other maneuvers. Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? Jeff Hubbard, Mike Stewart, David Phillips, Jacob Romero, Timmy Hamilton, and Jason Bitzer What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? My dream is to travel the world as a professional bodyboarder, but anything else that comes along is great. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? Indonesia, for sure, because the waves are amazing and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a place I have wanted to go to since I started bodyboarding. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc.)? On Kauai there is almost always waves somewhere, but when the waves are flat I am on my trampoline or just cruising with friends.
PH: NEAL MIYAKE
CHASE O’LEARY Port Macquarie, NSW, AU
PH: JOSH TABONE
Name | Chase O’Leary Age & DOB | 20 & 2.10.91 Home | Port Macquarie, NSW, Australia Spot(s) | Breakwall Sponsors | Funkshen, Limited Edition, Attica Travels | Hawaii, Fiji, Chile, Peru, Samoa, Indo, Cooks, Philippines, etc. What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? In Port Mac, we just got officially recognized as the “Bodyboard Capital of Australia.” So, yeah, you could say our town has a lot of passion and respect for bodyboarding because of guys like Eppo and Kingy. We have 2 world boog champs from our town! Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? I tried soccer and BMX when I was younger and got pretty into it. Then I started going to the beach a lot and tried surfing for a few weeks, then mixed it up booging and gradually became hooked on the boog ‘cause you can get barreled easier I suppose… hah! Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? I love the way Kingy and Thorto ride barrels. They sit as deep as you possibly can. There are heaps of other guys that do it but I grew up watching those guys do it out at B-Wall. Also, I like how Novy surfs. Just his style and how powerful he is. Chris James for hitting massive sections and just getting launched. Haha! Almost forgot Rawlins… I think you’d know why. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? Win an IBA event. Doesn’t matter where… just want to win one of the things. Surf new waves at remote locations around the world and document it with the best equipment (phantom cams, etc). If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? I like to kick back when I go away. Some places are really full on and rushed, etc. I really like all the Pacific Islands like Samoa, Fiji, etc, ‘cause they just cruise and seem to not have a worry in the world. I also want to surf P-Pass pretty damn bad; want to try and get over there this year. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? Play a lot of Golf, I’m half looking forward to retiring so I can play even more. Haha! The odd spot fishing and tennis with a dash of partying (only in moderation though). The surf where I live is pretty consistent so it’s pretty rare that the surf will be too small to surf. PH: JOSH TABONE | JOSHTABONEPHOTO.BLOGSPOT.COM
CODY LUCAS Sourth Kona, HI
PH: MIKE CERRONE
Name | Cody Lucas Age & DOB | 18 & 4.9.93 Home | South Kona, Big Island, Hawaii Spots | Hookena, Ke’ei, Napo’opo’o, Majics Point/Wedge, Banyans, Hash, Ghost Trees, Coast Guards, Pololu Valley, Waipio Valley, rest of BI Sponsors | Science, Viper, Gyroll, Conscious Riddims, Kona Boys, Waimea Surf Classics, Patz Pies, BI family Travels | Sandys, South Shore, Pipe, Big Beach, Santa Cruz in Cali
who you are. Experimenting with flips and rotations sandsliding with the boys is by far some of the best memories I have. Also the fact that Mike Stewart is the man, and he came from BI and went to Konawaena just like me. Meeting him and getting on the team has changed my life in so many ways. Not to be a clone, but gotta be like Mike! What do you want to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? Surfing as many waves of the world as possible, and taking groms along with me to watch them charge. Just trying to get the younger generation of rippers to get motivated and take it to the next level. It would be sick to eventually have my own brand and run a shop where everyone could just come and lounge and share ideas and views on the art of bodyboarding. I just want to go as big as possible with everything; go next level and invent new tricks!
What is it like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? Big Island bodyboarders are somewhat underground but ripping. It is a very tight community where everyone knows everyone. Swells get blocked from the outer islands, but when the right ones come through, it’s the best place in the world because there are so many different spots all over the island that are so off the grid you can score world class by yourself. There are so many of the boys who kill it and have world class talent but want nothing to do with contests because they have so much love for their zone. Big Island is super mellow and it’s really like one big family. Because the island is so young, the reef is hectic and makes for some slabs. The majority of the spots over here are heavy, shallow slabs even when it’s sand. Growing up on the reefs of the BI, a lot of the riders over here are out of their minds and will charge anything. It’s a good mentality to have. Why did you choose Bodyboarding instead of another sport? I chose bodyboarding because I couldn’t handle coaches constantly snapping and giving orders. In the ocean there are no rules, only your personal limitations. Bodyboarding is a sport that pushes boundaries and breaks the laws of physics, whether it be a huge tweaked out flip or a heavy death slab. Bodyboarding is the perfect mix of fear, fun, and adrenaline. I love that with bodyboarding you can feel the wave and do whatever you want on any section of it. Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? Growing up down south at Hookena sandsliding with the crew down there—Jesse, George, Joe Anderson, Ikie boy, Brandon, Dukie, Preston, Pearson, Percy Gio, Dalton Pua, Big T, Rippa Bradley, and so many more. Those were the boys that pushed me to get nuts and have no fear. All of them had their own style that was so sick and clean. All of those names could be in the Pipe Challenge today, but they all went their own ways. No Joke. So underground that they didn’t need the contests and all the hype. Also, all the boys down at Majics and that whole crew … you know
If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? Firing Cloudbreak. Private 10 star island resort thing with kawa and beautiful women. Really, oh not to mention the raging, nonstop, freight train foamball, wide open barrel of a wave. Yes! What do you do when the surf is flat? I just started my second semester of community college majoring in Tropical Environment Agroforestry Management. Stoked! When not in class or working and it’s flat, I’m either hunting, diving, training, bombing hills, or just cruising.
PH: MIKE CERRONE
MURPHY BARTLING Newport Beach, CA
PH: JENAVIEVE BELAIR
Name | Murphy Bartling Age & DOB | 19 & 10.29.92 Home | Currently living in Newport Beach, California, where I was born and raised Spot(s) | Local boogie spot has just been Wedge since day one Sponsors | Free Agent Travels | I’ve been lucky enough to stay on Oahu the past four winters and surf world-class waves. I’ve traveled a bit of Kauai and Southern Baja as well as most all of California. What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? Summer is super fun … constant wedgers coming through at the compound. Winter, on the other hand, is just a bit trickier when it comes to ﬁnding good waves. Not to mention dealing with punk surfers everywhere. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? I love getting barreled. Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? I feel that Mike Stewart has influenced me the most because I feel that he has a better understanding of waves than anyone else in this world. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? I hope to journey down to Australia sometime in the next 8-10 months, but more than anything I really just want to get some heavy barrels If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? I think I would have to say an Ireland tour would be amazing. To have an understanding of my cultural heritage, get some epic shacks at Riley’s, not to mention grab a few beers in Dublin and potentially meet some ﬁne young ladies. A potential layover in the Canary’s in order to snag a few nuggys at Fronton. What do you do when the surf is ﬂat (hobbies, etc)? Art is definitely one of my main interests. Other than that, I usually spend my time trying to educate myself, hanging out with friends and family, as well as having the occasional beer or cocktail.
PH: NICOLA LUGO | NICOLALUGO.COM
PH: NATE RUBIO
KEONI HAINA Aina Haina, Oahu, HI
PH: NATE RUBIO
Name | Keoni Haina Age & DOB | 21 & 8.12.90 Home | Aina Haina, Oahu, Hawaii Spot(s) | Half Point, The Zone, OTW, and Pipe. Sponsors | Custom X Travels | No where yet. What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? Life as a bodyboarder is pretty cruise for the most part. Down at the spots I usually go to the crowd is pretty mellow. When it come to North Shore, it gets tough. Being young and surfing out there means I don’t get a lot of respect from anyone, especially from surfers. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? I chose bodyboarding because it was just the most epic thing I’ve ever done. The feeling of getting barreled or punting a good air couldn’t compare to anything else I’ve done in my life so far! Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? The guys who come to mind would have to be Mike Stewart, Jeff Hubbard, Aka Lyman, Jacob Romero, Jonah Romero, JMV, Evan Fa, Alan Lamphere, and BULA; but I can probably name a lot of other people but the list would be kind of long. A few of these guys push me to surf better everyday, and I watch them to see how I can better myself as a bodyboarder. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? I hope to be on the world tour and traveling the world surfing all kinds of epic spots. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? If I had the chance, I would love to go to Tahiti. I’ve watched countless clips and videos of the place and can’t get over how sick the waves are there! What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? When the waves are crappy I usually go and work out … like run and other stuff. Sometimes I hop on Xbox, and if not that I cruise with the boys doing all kinds of crazy things.
KALEO DELATORI Napili, Maui, HI
PH: EVAN FA
Name | Kaleo Delatori Age & DOB | 20 & 11.5.91 Home | Napili, Maui, Hawaii Spot(s) | Some secrets and H-Bay Sponsors | The FOAM COmpany Travels | Hawaiian Islands, West Coast USA What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? It’s super sick! Although surrounded by surfers 90% of the time, us bodyboarders prove that we belong in any lineup. There are so many underground guys here it’s ridiculous. Inspiration. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? Versatility: Stand up, Prone, DK, whatever you want and it’s there. Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? Dave Hubbard, Ryan Hardy, and Spencer Skipper. Nothing ever looks forced, just smooth lines all over. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? Get better in every aspect and excel in comps and free surf. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? Australia. Wedges, wedges, wedges! Need I say more? What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? Skate, Yoga, Ph/Vid Editing, annndd DG!
PH: WADE SAUNDERS
TEHEI TAHIRI French Polynesia, Tahiti
Name | Tehei Tahirivairau Age & DOB | 19 & 2.5.92 Home | Puuanauia, Tahiti, French Polynesia Spot(s) | Taapuna Sponsors | None Travels | Home What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? The life of a bodyboarder here is very hard and expensive. We juggle between school and bodyboard training. You go training before and after school. For me, I wake up at 4 o’clock in the morning to go surfing, and I leave the spot for school at 6 o’clock because school begins at 7 o’clock. When school is finished I go surf again. When we’re on school holiday, we go surf all day. We have a very good way of life. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? I chose bodyboarding because my father did it before, so he influenced me. I didn’t choose another sport because I love to ride the sea and feel the adrenaline when I take off on a wave. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? In the future I would like to travel around the world and ride the best waves. I want to do international contests for more experience. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? If I could travel I would want to go to Shipstern, Luna Park, Pipe, Indonesia, Chile, Padang Padang, or El Fronton. Only one is not possible because I want them all. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc.)? When the surf is flat I go running, play on my long board, or I wakeboard or surf on the internet. Haha!
PH: DAVE BAKER
RIVER RANDLE Sunset Beach, HI
PH: RYAN SWAGLEY
Name | River Rush Randle Age & DOB | 15 & 1.2.97 Home | Sunset Beach, Oahu Spot(s) | Velzyland Sponsors | None Travels | Fiji, South Australia What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? Unique to say the least, considering the surfer to bodyboarder ratio is 100 to 1. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? I had a love for it since I first started that surfing couldn’t achieve, and considering the waves are a few seconds away, literally, it seemed like the best option. Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? Jonny Correa and Evan Fa. They’re some of the underground guys pushing the sport to its full potential and bringing style back to Hawaii. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? Win a contest or two, gain a sponsor, and go on a team trip. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? Definitely Australia … the people are friendly, the riders rip, and the sandbars are perfect. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? Spearfishing is a close second to bodyboarding, and is my way of keeping sane until the waves are good again.
PH: ROGER FA
PH: JAMES MERTENS | JAMESNATURALPHOTOGRAPHY.SMUGMUG.COM
Name | Sammy Morretino Age & DOB |15 & 11.29.96 Home | Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii Spot(s) | Breneckees, Shipwrecks, Hell’s Reef, Inside PK’s, and some secret wedges Sponsors | Science Bodyboards, Plastic People Clothing, The Vert Effect, and Poipu Surf Company. Travels | California, New Jersey, Oahu, Maui, and the Big Island. What is life like as a bodyboarder where you’re from? It’s pretty good. There are a lot of good waves to boogie, but I think at some spots surfers don’t give the bodyboarders the respect they deserve. But I think being a bodyboarder on Kauai is epic. I got to watch the Hubbard brothers boogie when I was growing up so that helped me a lot. Also, there are just so much waves on Kauai that haven’t been ridden, so you can easily find your own wave that nobody knows about. Kauai has so many underground
SAMMY MORENTINO Koloa, Kauai
PH: JAMES MERTENS
riders; it’s unbelievable how much talent they all have. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? I chose bodyboarding because you can do so much more tricks on a bodyboard than on a surfboard. My dad was a bodyboarder, and he used to put me on his board and catch waves with me. If it wasn’t for my dad, I don’t know if I would be the bodyboarder I am today. He pushed me so hard to start doing contests. I used to hate contests. I just wanted to have fun bodyboarding. I never knew I could make a career out of bodyboarding. I just did it to have fun. Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? I would have to say Dave Hubbard and the Boogie Nation crew, for sure. To me, I think Dave Hubbard is the most stylish and versatile bodyboarder in the world, and I try to bodyboard like him. He’s just so good at dropknee, prone, and standup. If I could have a bodyboarding coach it would be Dave Hubbard, for sure. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? I hope to become a world champion for prone and dropknee. That is my ultimate goal in bodyboarding. Also, I would like to get more kids to start bodyboarding so they can enjoy the sport as much as I do and just have fun doing what they love to do. Also, I would like to start my own bodyboarding company when I get older. If you could travel to one place in the world where would it be and why? I would have to say Australia because there are so much types of good waves there—slabs, wedges, beachbreaks, and reefbreaks. My friend told me that the natives are super cool people. Australia would have to be my dream trip. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc.)? When it’s flat I try to edit clips of me and my friends. I’m trying to create a video of the Kauai underground riders so they can start getting noticed for what they do in the ocean. Sometimes I skate but I just hurt my arm skating pretty bad so I’m over skating for a while.
JOHN DUVALL French Polynesia, Tahiti
PH: ERIC SCHNITZER
Name | John Duval Age & DOB | 21 & 8.19.90 Home | Tahiti Spot(s) | Teahupoo & other spots Sponsors | None Travels | Hawaii and outer islands of Tahiti What is life like as a bodyboarder where youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re from? The life here is pretty simple. There are no worries. Most of the Tahitians are good people, and the waves are perfect. Why did you choose bodyboarding instead of another sport? My brother bought me a bodyboard when I was 15 years oId. That`s why I chose bodyboarding. A surfboard was too expensive at the time. Who, or what, influenced the way you bodyboard the most? I would say that Jono Bruce, Mitch Rawlins, Jared Houston, and Brendon Newton are the guys that influenced me the most because of their style and the way they charge. What do you hope to accomplish in bodyboarding in the future? My dream is to surf and improve in the big wave conditions of Tahiti. If you could travel to one place in the world, where would it be and why? I think that Australia is attracting me the most. The country is so big, so they have a lot of surf spots. I know that the best waves are in French Polynesia, but I just want to try a different way of life instead of the Tahitian life. What do you do when the surf is flat (hobbies, etc)? I pretty much relax and have fun in the ocean. I also like hiking and cruising at the river. When I`m bored I just waste my time on Facebook. Haha! I enjoy partying with my friends!
PH: ERIC SCHNITZER
PH: NEAL MIYAKE
Jean Ferreira Photo: LemosImages.com
PH: AARON GOULDING | JAGMEDIAPRODICTIONS.COM
Mike Stewart foreshadowing the shape of things to come in Version 6.0. Due for release in June 2012.
MIKE STEWART | PH: AARON GOULDING | JAGMEDIAPRODUCTIONS.COM