The Sky is falling. And our Oceans came from up there. Not surprising that surfing has always been referred to as a cosmic experience. After all, most of the earth’s Ocean’s were created by marauding comets.The bombardment would have happened some eight million years after the earth was formed. That’s right. Comets, not Asteroids. Comets being made up primarily of ice, where asteroids are mostly metal and rock. Billions of years ago, when our planet was just a baby, these comets and their precious loads of frozen ice slammed into the earth quite often. The Earth a target for the free floating chunks of debris that has always pinballed around in space at the mercy of whatever gravitational forces they may encounter.
centuries. At least now they seem to be getting the attention they deserve for providing the stuff that allowed all life on earth.
The evidence of this comes from a signature of the ratio of heavy hydrogen, or deuterium content of our Ocean’s water. The scientific community was stoked when they found that ice on a comet called 103P/Hartley2, analyzed by an infrared instrument aboard Europe’s Herschel space telescope, had the same deuterium ratio as water on earth. One wise-ass scientist starting calling Comets “dirty snowballs” and the space humor stuck. How could it not when the things are just ice and space dirt? And lead a lonely existence. Looping around the sun in orbits that are measured not by hours, but by
The true locals of our world have always been the waves. So as you absorb this new issue of Surftime. Take the time to look at the waves more than the surfers. Because it is the waves, and the ocean that produces them, that demands our respect above all others. A respect reserved for royalty. The Ocean and her waves are what are truly in command of our happiness and health. So treat them accordingly. Or die a small creature.
Astrophysicists have long puzzled over the original source of water on Earth. The place was so scorchingly hot in its infancy that anything that touched it evaporated. 4 million years ago, water would have only existed in the freezing outer reaches of space. Until recently it was believed that only 10% of the water on earth was from colliding comets. But now that number is climbing and showing no sign of stopping with every new piece of evidence. Which in all ways is what this new Surftime locals only issue is all about. Our Ocean’s celestial beginnings and how they relate to us today. Because the true locals of our world have never been human.
GALLERY: BELONGING. HOPING. LOVING. HOME.
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Apology. Surftime regrets crediting last issue’s cover to the wrong photographer. This great cover was actually photographed by Pete Frieden.
COVER: Local Blerong Darmayasa, right at home. Photography by Liquid Barrel
the photography issue
The monsoon experience Photos and words by Dobi
THE MONSOON EXPERIENCE
Joining the fun at a fickle East Side break, local Garut Widiarta showed up at the perfect time, the perfect tide and with the perfect attitude to join the 48 hour crew. 1 2 SURFTIME
onsoon in Bali. The outside surfing world knows so little about it. Memories of sugarplum days at Uluwatu, Padang Padang, hot and sunny…paradise. Not the Monsoon mood. No. With its overcast days blowing out the Bukit for four months, and its sweeping rains squalls marching through the Isthmus and the brown water surfing from the emptying rivermouths. No, the monsoon is a very different Bali. All most people know about the Eastside is the word
Keramas. Having surely achieved lexicon status now that the spot is on the WSL hit list. But there is much more to the Eastside. Much more. But They are not served on a silver platter like the Bukit. Less obvious, more temperamental, local knowledge and local ownership is what will get you your fix. That and a certain rain washed cleanliness to all. Super clear mornings with views of all the mountains from Merbuk in the North West, to the highest and most active, Agung
in the North East. This monsoon, however, was not so glamorous. It seemed to be making up for drier wet seasons of the last few years by bucketing down with rain far more days than it wasn’t. With many a dawn wake up postponed by torrential downpours. Kuta flooding and reports from Pacitan in Java looking like it had almost been washed away. Sometimes you don’t get chances on the monsoon reefs for
proper waves when things are this weather torn. Sometimes, you gotta look for the windows. Sometimes you only get 48 hours. Just like we did. After a few hoax swells turned out to be fizzers, I got some real info. Although the forecast for Bali was pretty average, I got news from my good friend Thommo, who lives in front of North Point in Western Australia, that they were gearing up their skis for a
6m swell that was about to hit the next day. West Oz was about to get bombed. Marlon Gerber and I timed it out. Marlon decided to bring two of his smaller boards while I brought along my 6’5’’ Gerry Lopez single fin. As soon as we got our first glimpse of the Ocean north of Sanur, we realized Thommo wasn’t joking. Massive thick lines of swell were slamming into a certain black sand beach break.
Rizal Tandjung was tuned in from take off to kick out. Channeling Gerry Lopez, for Rizal, it was a cakewalk.
Marlon realized he’d brought the wrong boards. At Keramas we sat in the car as huge waves marched in. With a crazy wide barreling left-hander up the beach going ballistic, but deadly without an exit. Marlon paddled out alone on his little board. I hung out with Betet Merta and shot with my 200mm lens. It was almost too big and raw for Marlon and Keramas, with most of the waves breaking wide and just turning into a big fat wall that would connect with an evil closeout closer to shore. Marlon’s 5’4” was obviously not enough.
The call was made to check a rarely breaking left hander. After getting stuck in the rain trying to turn the car around in the tiny car park north of the river at Keramas, we were finally underway with Betet in the lead. We arrived at another secret car park just as Rizal Tandjung was pulling up, son Varun in tow. I knew it was going to be too good a session to not shoot in the water. Marlon grabbed my Gerry Lopez single fin to give himself some paddle power.
You can see it. The supreme comfort of being a true local on an island of absolutley perfect waves. Varun Tandjung, Sinar Tandjung, Rizal Tandjung and Betet Merta. Local royalty ready for the next session.
Obviously, it was Rizal’s day. One of those sessions where he was in perfect rhythm, picking off the sets, tuning in and busting loose with the most recognizable style on the island. Rizal’s Tandjung’s legacy grows on every wave he chooses.
Smart. He was going to need every inch of it. We made it out to the lineup where one goofy foot in particular was getting blown out of the most perfect waves I had seen in months. As we got to the lineup the next set bombed through. That goofy footer turned out to be Brazilian barrel rider Bruno Santos. Soon enough, I was treated to some of the best barrel riding in Bali. Rizal, Marlon,
Betet, Bruno and later, Garut and Mustafa, taking turns getting spat out on this magic piece of reef that usually lies dormant and windy. Often there is a battle that goes on in your mind when youâ€™re taking photos of surfing instead of surfing yourself. But with this calibre of surfers out and no other photog-
raphers in sight, I was just as buzzed as the surfers themselves. Thereâ€™s something cool about being locked in a solid piece of Ocean and lining up a surfer, like a duel out of an old western movie, and pressing down the trigger to fire off a bunch of photos while the ocean turns inside out. When you see everyone buzzing afterwards from looking at your photos its a bloody nice feeling
too. Which is exactly what happened after a stoked out Rizal hosted us to a feed and some beers after the session. Plans were then made to make the most of this swell with a dawn session the next day. I left most of my stuff in Marlonâ€™s car, took my batteries back to the place I was staying, plugged them in and crashed out. Alarms were set for 0450.
Same place, different day, different tide. The magic that was out there the previous afternoon had shifted. With more happening down the reef and heading towards the beachies, with the sets hitting either side but not there. With the more famous reefs looking a bit crowded, the call was made to check the beachies.
With enough barrels under his belt, Betet Merta turned his attention to a lunchbreak beachbreak session. Flying above, around and through section after section, he left the crowd in his dust.
The great Marlon Gerber. Finding himself undergunned after a close out session at giant Keramas, he switched to photographer Dobiâ€™s vintage single fin for the next secret session. Riding with his inmitable style, his performance was nuanced with memories from the past. Hopefully the next generation is taking notes.
Pulling up 10 minutes later, in the corner of the beach next to a flowing brown rivermouth, a right hander seemed to be calling the natural footers. Looking picture perfect it seemed a good choice to avoid driving around all morning checking spots in the slowly fading swell. As we were walking down to the beach some familiar faces were leaving the surf
saying ‘it looks better than it is”. Not what you want to hear. Everyone except Betet seemed to mis-read the waves and seemed to be struggling. Betet was having none of it and proceeded to spend the next hour or two blowing the back out of every wave and spinning and slicing his way to the beach. Betet on fire right there.
Marlon was keen to head back for the barn, but after taking pics the last few sessions I convinced him to take me to Sanur Reef so I could grab a few waves. Having been in the sun for a few hours, Marlon opted to catch some Z’s in the car while I ran down through the small shops and boat ticket offices with my board and was greeted by still perfect
4-5ft Sanur with only 10 guys out. Over excited to finally be surfing, I messed up the first couple of waves. So I paddled out the back and waited. Sitting there only a few minutes, a big lump came in. Everyone else was going to be too inside. I couldnâ€™t believe my luck. Sometimes things just go your way I guess. Weird things like that happen in the
Ocean if you are a believer. I turned around and pegged a classic Sanur reef wave all the way to the end, my single fin doing what it was meant to do.In this crazy post-storm bright sunshine with dark clouds all around, I got that monsoon moment that I needed. Sometimes all you need is a good 48 hours to make you smile for weeks.
One can imagine how many perfect waves these locals have seen barrel down the Eastside reefs. Still, after all the years, when another perfect set rolls through, they just canâ€™t seem to take their eyes off the spectacle of it all.
You can always count on Mustafa Jeksen to bring an outrageous sensibility to any session. A charger par excellence, he still knows how to boogie now and then.
The World’s Biggest Beachbreak Has Alot To Answer For Photos by Bradley Masters
Left: Don’t limit your challenges…challenge your limits. Right: The small harbor at Nazare. Unholy waves breaking just outside. Many a surfer has pulled into this safe harbor after the madness and thanked his or her lucky stars for deliverance.
t’s like being a cop. A cop that has seen so many photos of dead bodies that they don’t really effect him anymore. Us surfers, having seen countless images of Nazare in Portugal, may be just like those cops. But it doesn’t mean the images are any less significant. Each and every one. These are waves unimaginable. Nightmares. Monsters. And yet man has figured out how to ride them. Without so much as a single casualty. That’s a record way better than the NASA space program. Man has figured it out. Much the same way we figured out how to fly. Build the right equipment, throw in some guts, and you have lift-off. But when you examine the world’s gnarliest beachbreak, really take a good
look at it, it still baffles the imagination. BEYOND THE PHOTOS: This sand-bottomed big-wave spot is located 75 miles north of Lisbon, Portugal. The sleepy fishing of village of nearby Nazare lends its name. As of 2014, Nazare was beleived to be the place where the four largest waves ever ridden took place. It’s not hard to see why. Winter swells aimed at Nazaré mutate after rolling in through an offshore canyon that runs 16,000 feet deep. Like a firehose, this venturi energy focuses the waves onto massive sandbars very close to shore. The sandbars slow the energy and
These waves are not set to the scale of the human body…they are set to the size of Human spirit.
cut it up into towering peaks that can only be considered unearthly. And remarkably, unlike most big-wave breaks, Nazaré also provides excellent surf during small and medium sized swells. According to the Encyclopedia of Surfing, “waves have been ridden at Nazaré since at least 1968, when surfers were filmed on playful three-footers as part of an Endless Summer-like travelogue film called “Follow Me”. Local waveriders enjoyed the break up to about 10 feet for years, but the spot wasn’t on the surf world’s radar until November, 2011. That year, Hawaiian big-wave surfer Garrett McNamara was filmed riding a gigantic wave at Nazaré, later pegged by the Billabong XXL committee at 78 feet—a new world record. Overnight, McNamara and Nazaré became mainstream media darlings”. Indeed.
Over the next few years, the claim of “biggest wave ever ridden” would be attached to three more rides at Nazaré. McNamara repeated in January, 2013, on what was unofficially called a 100 foot wave. In 2013, Brazilian Carlos Burle plummeted down the face of an enormous steel-grey peak before being steamrolled by whitewater. Surfers now declared Burle’s wave to be the largest ridden in history. Then in 2014, a British plumber named Andrew Cotton was towed into a wave that was even taller. So tall that surfers are afraid to even give it a height for fear of being laughed at. One brave Portugal newspaper put it at 120 feet. Yet the questions remain as to credibility of these waves as the biggest in history. To many, Nazaré remains the uninvited guest at surfing’s big-wave party, due to the fact that the wave face can slope out in front of a rider to a point where it doesn’t seem to be a “wave” so much as a capping swell. Big-wave star Greg Long called it “A novelty wave. It stands up for half a second and then it’s over.” Regardless, the surf at Nazaré is indisputably large, powerful, and deadly. Especially the area along the beach and cliffs, which is the most horrifying shorebreak in the world. Female Brazilian big-wave charger Maya Gabeira nearly drowned at Nazaré in October 2013, after first breaking her ankle in a wipeout, then losing consciousness in the shorebreak. She was dragged to the beach by Carlos Burle and revived by a rescue crew. It was a near death that today still remains a portent of more deaths if the madness to push bigger and badder continues. The question here is not what’s next…it’s what’s bigger.
It is the rare surfer who can say he has looked over his left shoulder on a backside bottom turn to see the entire Atlantic Ocean looming above him.
A CHAMPION SPEAKS ON NAZARE: Newly crowned Big Wave World Champion Billy Kemper had this to say about Nazare where he won his title: I went last year because I was in striking range of the World Title. Same deal this year. I don’t think it’s a paddle wave. There’s so much risk and so little reward. I know on its day of days it’s a really insane wave. But its not a place where I’m checking the charts every week. It’s heavy, man. It’ll take your life away in a heartbeat. So much current and obstacles on the wave, and it’s unpredictable. There’s no reef, there’s no channel. And there’s a giant cliff, where if
you go right and miss your ski grab there’s a good chance you’ll never be seen again. It’s just not what I want. I want to get the ride of the year and the barrel of my life. I’m not the guy who’s going to order 11’0” boards and chase a swell and go straight on the biggest wave of the year and get absolutely flogged. I have no desire to do that. I want to ride good waves like Mav’s and Jaws, that’s what I’m chasing in life right now. I got kids, a family to feed, and so much to lose. I’m not going to beat the shit out of myself for no reason. Still, the venue is as good as a venue gets, and the wave is 100-foot every other week of the year. So sooner or later the wind will be right and you’re going to get an opportunity to run an event. Plus, the
Being in the shadow of one of these beasts can be the loneliest place on earth.
government and people down there support surfing more than any place I’ve ever been in my life. This year, I was in the first heat and Nazare was nuts: huge, windy, out of control. Mike Parsons looked at me and said, “What do you think?” I said, “Let’s run this thing. I didn’t fly here to call it off. I flew here because I’m 200 points behind 1stplace for the Title.” In the back of my mind, I knew I needed to place higher than Kai Lenny to win the World Title. That first heat was so gnarly. It was the surfers’ decision to call it off that day, though there were a couple guys, Pete Mel and myself, who wanted to keep running. We said, “We have to finish this event now or finish it at half the size tomorrow with better conditions.” They called it off. The other question in the air was if we could split the prizemoney and the points and there was no way I was getting on a plane and coming home after just advancing through my first heat in those conditions. It was a smart decision to cancel and then
surf the next day. The next day there were still 20-30-foot faces. It wasn’t the biggest event, but it was fully contestable. Guys were drawing different lines. I think if we’d known that, we would’ve been there with smaller boards, like 8’6”s, and approached the wave differently, doing big turns. But we had fun, and I did exactly what I needed to do. I’ve been surfing the QS since I was a teenager, and I could’ve sat on Kai for an hour to make sure he didn’t catch a wave. But I’ve known him since he was in diapers and just thought, “Let’s give ourselves space and try to perform, see what happens. Let the best man win.” I was behind the whole first half of the heat. Midway through, I told myself to just start riding waves. It’s a beachbreak, and I knew I’d find something eventually that’d give me a score. Once I heard I made it into 2nd and there was 15 minutes left, I slowly started making my way towards Kai. With about eight minutes left, I got on the priority side of him going right, ‘cause Lucas was going on those lefts. I just held position on those rights. Kai gave me a couple paddles and tried to get into position, but I knew what was on the line and I would’ve paddled him to France if I had to. It paid off: I ended up getting 2nd, he ended up getting 4th, and I jumped him by almost 3,000 points. I became the big wave world Champion that day”. (Kemper). With the overwhelming support of the Portuguese people, future of Nazare is set in stone as part of our surfing existence. To some a novelty wave. To others a crucible. Here in Indonesia, a world away from Nazare’s horrendous, cold, thundering giants, we need only ask ourselves one question. What, if anything, does it mean to us?.
Defying all human sense and order, to ride the giants of Nazare takes a certain brand of madness. A chaos of mind that must match the chaos of the conditions. The key to survival is understanding your insanity.
“Big Desert Point. I broke my back out there in 2007. That scared the crap out of me. I thought I was going to be paralyzed. I couldn’t feel my hands for about 30 secs. Lucky it was dead low tide and I got washed in. Otherwise I think I would have drowned that day. Photography by Kelbow
3 8 SURFTIME
Surf adventurer Tai Graham. Be it Desert Point, giant Australia or freezing Norway, he is never far from home. Photography by E Magnusson
When you travel to these far off places, what is the Bali spirit you bring with you? I think what Bali has taught me most is that no matter who you are and where you are from, one day you might bump into that same person again down the track. So call it the spirit of connecting people together. Bali has that, all walks of life connecting and getting along in this tiny island surrounded by its bigger brother and sister islands. It holds so much magic and so much strength to be able to stand strong alone, knowing that what goes around comes around, be it good or bad. Your Norway connection is very personal now? At first I liked Norway for the snow. Being a brown skinned Polynesian blooded boy the cold wasn’t really for me. But the more I got to understand the place and the people, the more I loved it. Its unique, the Viking history, a strong connection with nature that I
could relate to. They’re tough people. My lady is from there, our son was born there. The people are welcoming, it’s a nice clean, well run country. But I love the rawness about it. The waves are raw. Surfing in the cold is f*cking raw. Walking over snow on the beach, minus 10 air temp, zero degree water, 7 mm wetsuits with hoods and gloves and boots. Raw. What is it like to surf in ice? It’s cold when your getting changed, that’s the worst part . Getting into and out of your wetsuit. The greatest thing is the empty line-ups. The weight of a 7mm wetsuit adds about 6kgs. Plus your stiff as a robot. You feel old, really old. But you feel alive. It’s as beautiful as sitting in the Mentawai, looking back at the white sand and coconut trees. Has fatherhood changed the way you approach your ocean life? I’m not sure yet. We are all a bit selfish as
surfers.Once we see swell charts light up we get blind sighted to what’s going on around us, and we go surfing. It takes patience to be with surfers, hats off to the partners that put up with us. Whatever the future holds, our lives will always be around the ocean. I know that much.
Tai Graham’s international travels has allowed him extraordinary friendships. Being connected to people from the countries you visit allow extraordinary experiences as well. Here Jerome Sayhoun and Tai launch a pre-dawn attack to a secret slab in a far off place. There is a courage in engaging the world. And opportunity. Photography by Joey Griffiths
Spread: “I Didn’t tell my missus I was going to surf this Oz wave that day. I sent her a picture when I got in and she just sent back one of those emoji faces that said “no soup for you”. Photography by Joey Griffiths Above right: In his element, Oz. Photography by Joey Griffiths Below right: In the elements. Norway. Photography by Joey Griffiths
What do you think is the thing inside all surfers that make us explore the far reaches of the world seeking extreme waves? I get asked this all the time by people that don’t surf and I think everyone has that curiosity in them, humans have it. Plus, we all want that feeling of being somewhere awesome that no one else was. Even if someone was there before us just having that day to your self is very fulfilling. I think that’s what drives people to explore, look at snowboarders, sailors, hikers, mountaineers, hunters, even musicians in a way. To go where no one else has gone before in the way you did it. Its very rewarding.
around and see how much fun you have with them.
Jetskis and vests surfing. What is the greatest thing about it? People turn up their noses to them, but mostly that’s cos they’ve never had a fun day on one. Go surf a slab with no one
What is the deepest thing you have learned about yourself through surfing? I think the ability to constantly push yourself and challenge yourself. Personally I like the challenge of trying to figure out the play, the
Do you feel that surfing is a deep connection with nature no matter where you are? I think all of us, no matter what craft or wave size we are on, can agree that there are those connected moments. Sun rising, birds coasting over the warm air drafts of the waves, the silence, the mountains on the shore, a fisherman in his canoe in the channel. There are so many moments that us as surfers have this unique moment with nature that I feel plays a big part in to bringing us back for more each and every day.
charts and then pushing yourself out of your comfort zone. But I apply that to all areas of my life. Business, family, personal things. Its taught me to a lot about pressing the pause button, having a moment to reflect and then feel out what you can learn and can possibly do better, or just accept that you did do you best and it is what it is.
A recent trip to Morocco allowed Tai to open up on long right walls, punctuated with dark, deep barrels as mysterious as the country itself. Photography by Joey Griffiths
Photography by E Magnusson
Photography by Joey Griffiths
Not scared of just about anything, Tai Graham has embraced the homeland of his wife and the birthplace of his son with open arms. â€œDream are where you make themâ€?. Tai, Norway dreamtime. 2018.
What is the deepest thing you hope to learn about yourself through surfing? I guess the constant learning. I just want to keep learning and to keep growing within myself. I also want to learn from the best and be able to share my knowledge. It’s a very rewarding feeling to be able to help others achieve their goals. There’s some things you keep closer to your chest for the right people, but overall I think it’s a special thing being able to help others. What is the best possible future of travel surfing for Indonesian surfer? I think a lot of countries need to take a page out of the young Brazilian surfers books. What they did was simply take home away from home. They always had
the talent, they always had the hunger and desire in them, but what they lacked and what so many other nations lack, is that feeling of comfort when they weren’t at home. Once they started seeing the benefits, and of course receiving the funds to be able to take family, friends, wives and girlfriends away with them, they made traveling fun. Instead of sleeping on the couch and being the outsider, they took home away from home and spoke the same language, laughed at the inside jokes, craved the same meals, they starting to enjoy being on the road. The world got smaller and the fans came out in droves and supported them. Look at snapper, its like Rio down there with the drums and singing and dancing. Once Indonesia gathers together,
feels as one, travels as one, the expat Balinese living abroad will come out in force and show support and I think then you’ll start to see better results. They have the talent. They need to grow the hunger, understand why they are doing it and overall try and take home away from home. I believe a kids like Rio Waida, Ketut Agus, Varun Tandjung are surfing really good, Bronson is ripping. I believe these kids can do some damage and get on tour. I’d love to see them band together and try take home away from home. What is your sage advice to anyone in Bali considering surfing beyond the far horizon? Go for it.
Photography by E Magnusson
Diah Rahayu Dewi. There is no force more powerful than a woman determined to rise. 4 8 SURFTIME
Photos by Liquid Barrel
urftime Magazine recently caught up with Diah Rahayu Dewi for a stream of consciousness conversation with Indonesiaâ€™s leading female surfing role model:.
She is not looking for a Knight, she is looking for her own sword. Diah, not afraid of the power on the East side.
“I would say that my main responsibilities as a professional surfer would be to always represent the Search philosophy of Rip Curl. It is such a great concept. Always seeking new places, new challenges, new waves and meeting them head on. I hope the next generation of female surfers take this on. One of the best things as a pro surfer is the travel budget you get. It is like a dream to know that you always can go anywhere you like and have the support to do it. As long as you are truly representing the brand that believes in you. And you have to
rip and work hard with the photographers. It is not a lazy job. But being able to travel at will is something you have to earn in life. It is not a gift. Its a wage. Travel? I have always dreamed of going to Hawaii. Their are alot of waves beyond the North shore. I really want to surf Honolua Bay. It looks so incredible when the big female pro’s surf it. Funny that just about the best surf spot on the tour is reserved for women. Social media is something that the next generation has got to get wired, but they cannot lose themselves in it. To be a pro, it is more of a
Diah’s new training regimen would kill most men. And it shows, particularly in her new cutbacks. Pinpoint force in the face of mankind.
tool of the trade, you have to take it as part of your profession. The message you send has to be as real as your surfing. Surfers everywhere can spot a fake surfer a mile away. So rip first, instagram later. The Kelly wave pool is on my bucket list too. Perfect for a female surfer. No crowds, so you can get any wave you want and really focus on it. It’s very safe, but will still give you a chance to see what you’ve got. If you kook out at a wavepool like that then you were never a good surfer in the first place, that’s for sure. That place shows everyone who
Clearly built for the Ocean, comfortable amidst its power, Diah seems to not only fuse with the feminine spirit of the Ocean, but also with itâ€™s strength.
you are”. “The main challenge for a female Indonesian is recognition from our Government as a national sport. Once we can convince them of that and get the financial support for programs, the sky’s the limit. I think we could win the Olympics. I love that I am of pure Indonesian blood. I feel it in my body when I surf our waves. The thing is, you need to feel it when you are in a different country’s waves. This is how surfing can be a real career for an Indonesian girl. Ripping everywhere, being healthy and happy
and leading the way. I can’t believe I have been a pro surfer with Rip Curl since I was a 15 year old grom. And I still had time to finish all my studies. I am very proud of this. And I believe surfing gave me the power to get through it all. Like the Asean Games in 2008, where I was determined to finish in the top three. I got a bronze medal there. Dream come true. And dreams keep happening. I am now also an Ambassador for Atlas pearls. Beautiful jewelry from the sea. It’s so perfect for me. I hope I can get them to sponsor other female surfers too. I under-
Girl power has never looked better for Indonesia. The women are doing it on their own, one wave at a time. Taina Izquierdo and Diah Rahayu Dewi, ready to take on the world.
stand why some girls think it is dangerous to surf. When I was 13 years old, I got run over by a guy and took three stitches in my head. But that just made me tougher. Now no one runs over me. I make sure of that. Because no one will ever be able to stop me from surfing for all of my life. I want to be remembered as the Indonesian Surfer Girl that inspired the future for girls everywhere. My message will always be never give up and always focus on your goals”. Dream it, do it.
5 6 SURFTIME
Photos by Liquid Barrel
Surftime Magazine announces the first of what will become a new award at Annual Surftime Awards. â€œLocal of the Yearâ€?. Our first nominee, Blerong Darmayasa. He is off to a blistering start this summer season. Connecting with photographer Liquid Barrel for tube after tube. Aside from gracing our cover this issue, this guy has been hitting the surf from dawn to dusk, embodying the spirit of what it means to be a connected local on this island. A die hard Padma Boy, that surf club is lucky to have his dedication and downright enthusiasm leading the way into 2018.
We see so many barrel shots of Blerong that sometimes we forget that he is a hellion off the lip. With a new quiver and feet like a Tokay Gecko, he manages to stay connected to his board through outrageous beachbreak suicide moves time and again. There is something about this kind of surfing that tells us this summer season is going to be truly memorable. And that Blerong will assuredly be one of the heaviest performance elements of the season.
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THE LIQUID BARREL PORTFOLIO I
t is what spectators will never be able to see. You can sit court side and hear tennis players breath. You can sit ringside and get splattered with the blood of boxers, you can sit at the fifty yard line of the Superbowl and see the pain and smell the fear in the players eyes. But with surfing, the spectator misses out on 99 percent of the experience. Warm and dry on land, they cannot know the sounds and furies of the surfing experience. They are not wet, they cannot hear it and they can barely imagine it. Aside from all the talk of surfing’s cosmic connections with nature, it remains primarily an athletic endeavor. Most surfers don’t even realize we sweat when we surf. Water photography is actually as close as a spectator can get without either getting in the way or drowning. And here, in these photos, we have the opportunity to examine, close up, the kinetic dynamics of the surfing act. The athleticism, the grace, the intensity that we often overlook. Because surfing just feels so damn good we forget just how much expertise and physical effort we put into it. And in these photo’s is our chance to take a look.
Betet Merta, Keramas. Fury in the eyes of the beholder.
Lempog Jackson, Keramas. Eye to eye, flying in the moment.
Marlon Gerber, Keramas. An F1 driverâ€™s focus on the turn ahead.
SEE YOU SURF IT’S NOT JUST A SELFIE WORLD ANYMORE… AND THAT’S A GOOD THING
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nless you’re a top pro, chances are that you are not going to have a top flight photographer behind a tripod on the beach shooting your every move. The civilian surfers among us have had to tie our dreams to Go Pro’s glued to the noses of our surfboards or stuffed in our mouths like a slobbering mongrel’s bone. But all that is about to change. SEEYOUSURF.com is going to make you look like star.
Creator Gherardo Marchelli tells all: How does SEEYOUSURF.com work? SYS is a global community that allows surfers and photographers to buy and sell surfing pictures. Surfers can easily find pictures of themselves, while photographers have the chance to turn their photography into a job. All you have to do as a photographer is to open a SYS account and start uploading pictures, adding the date and the surf spot. You decide the price of each picture. SYS photographers usually wear SYS T-shirts or hats. Some even fly an SYS flag. As a surfer, find pictures by using our spot and date powered search engine and click on it and buy it. Simple. How does it benefit a photographer? The benefit for photographers is that you no longer have to chase surfers as they exit from the water and have endless discussions about price or on how to send the pictures and hopefully get a payment. How does it benefit a surfer? One way is that if you are a surfer/Photographer, you can help finance a surf trip. The other way is you can just surf hard all day and check out your photos whenever you want. How does it benefit a surf shop/schools? They can sell pictures shot during surfing lessons, or issue vouchers for customers so they can get a free picture of themselves if purchasing something in the shop. And shops and surf schools have the chance to advertise their activity on Seeyousurf. Easy. Who created SYS? Gherardo Marchelli, an Italian entrepeneur who has a passion for surfing and photography. A few years ago he realized that, on one hand, it was a very common wish among surfers to have pictures of themselves while surfing. It’s wasn’t that easy…. now it is.
What has been the surfer and photographer feedback so far? We have had a great feedback and support from both communities. What country is it working best in now? BALI is definitely a key country for SYS as it is a hub for surfers coming from all over the world for its beautiful waves How does a surfer know if a SYS photographer has shot him? SYS has a powerful social media presence and all of the albums loaded on the platform are promoted on our Facebook page “SURF”. On 99.99% percent of cases, pictures are online up to 24 hours from when they have been shot. The cool thing is that, when a new photographer subscribes, he/she usually uploads some old pictures. So, every once in a while, take a look at your favorite spot homepage. You might find some pictures of yourself that you didn’t know about. How many photographers are signed up as of now? As of now, we have 5695 users and its growing fast. What does the future hold for SYS, particularly in Bali? Our main goal is to expand continuously in order to give a service to the worldwide surfing community. In the short term, our next step is to have a SYS App which, thanks to GPS location, will definitely increase the chances to put surfer and photographers in touch. We are currently setting the base for a launch in markets that haven’t been explored yet, like the ones in some countries from South America or the Philippines. As for Bali, we will continue to engage new local photographers to ensure good coverage on the surf spots and we will start promoting SYS among surf shop/schools and surfing events/contests. What about local photographers? They love it. It is such a great thing for local photographers. This way they don’t miss anyone. They can just focus on their photography and do an even better job. Plus, the surfer that says no on the beach might change his mind later when he thinks back on his surf. This will not take anything away from the local photographer, this can only help him make even more money. We are very involved with local surfing communities and wish to make them happy. This is a priority with us.
Nyoman Satria, Canggu, boosting for the common man. Photography by Liquid Barrel
G A L L E R Y BELONGING. HOPING. LOVING. HOME. Although summer is officially here, most locals will remember this past monsoon season as the big one. Biggest rainfall in over a decade. And that was good news for the East side. Secret sandbars popped up all over the place, a few danger reefs became carpets of sand and the steady advance of countless badaiâ€™s winds groomed the barrier reefs to perfection. There was so much surf that a sort of peace fell into the the usually high-pressure lineups. Here, Rahtu Suargita reaps the rainy fashion_ roxy & dragon rewards, somewhere near Sanur. Photography by Dobi 68
Tonjo Darmaputra, usually all smiles, found himself in some giant beachbreak barrels on our own North Shore. He was surprised as anyone to find all the rain had created his very own Backdoor Pipeline. And when he swung into tunnels like this one, that famous smile was replaced with a get-meout-of-here howl. Photography by Liquid Barrel
Sima Rai spent most the monsoon on a new training program. Leaned down to a natural fighting weight, riding thinner, faster Mayhem designs, the King of Tuban is tuned up and ready for the eastern tradewinds to groom his homeground reefs to perfection. Here he is working out at small Canggu, dreaming of a certain spot that lies beneath the shadows of jumbo jets. Photography by Joey Griffiths
Muklis Anwar has been very, very quiet lately. And with good reason. His region of Bali has had a banner wet season. The northern boys are exhausted. With so many new hard-to-find beachbreaks and firing sandstone reefs, crowds often thinned down to one. Muklisâ€™s says his biggest challenge this year was loneliness. Photography by Double D
As he starts to put muscle on his frame and take his surfing more seriously, Ketut Agus is in line for a shot at the WCT. His challenge will be found in focus, training, power and desire. But the age old Bali challenge remains. Why endure the travel and stress of comps when everything, absolutely everything you would ever want, is all here? The future for Ketut lies in an inner strength. Will he unleash the animal? Only time will tell. Photography by Liquid Barrel
FEATURING . ROXY & DRAGON
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KOMANG SUDARSANA, PRO SURFER, WEARS THE FAKIE MATTE BLACK FLOATABLE SUNGLASSES AND THE DRAGON KNOT BADGE TEE
KOMANG WEARS THE MICK FANNING SIGNATURE COLLECTION SUNGLASSES WITH THE DRAGON ARC ALLIANCE TEE
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CODE: 35075003 PRICE: 2.739.000 IDR
STYLE NO: CVS2508 PRICE: 199.000 IDR METALLICS
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STYLE NO: CVS1506 PRICE: 399.000 IDR YOGI
STYLE NO: CVS1506 PRICE: 399.000 IDR KINGPIN
STYLE NO: CVS1509 PRICE: 199.000 IDR 8 4 SURFTIME
PRICE: 495.000 IDR BURCH EYE
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BURCH STONEY 19’’ STH
PRICE: 965.000 IDR
BURCH STONEY 19” TAG
PRICE: 965.000 IDR
A. JJF DF REGATA TEE PRICE: 399.900 IDR B. PENDLETON CHIEF POCKET TEE PRICE: 399.900 IDR C. PENDLETON HAT PRICE: 359.900 IDR D. PHNTM JJ4 ELITE BST PRICE: 1.699.900 IDR E. PHNTM JJF MARITIME BST PRICE: 649.900 IDR F. PHNTM PENDELTON BST PRICE: 649.900 IDR
SECRET SPOT CANGGU IS FOR EVERYONE!
ust ask Alex, the jubilant owner of this fantastic new cafe perfectly located in Canggu. Inspired by the mantra “Live clean, eat clean, surf clean”, this is the perfect place to catch a great, mega-healthy meal before or after you surf. The place features delicious and organic everything. From a staggeringly good gelato do-it-yourself bar to a full menu of delectables. Vegan lovers can rejoice as well at the menu’s special section for that tribe. Try the Avocado toast or the wild strawberry waffle and you will be making the secret spot a regular stop for years to come. Easy to find and even easier to hang out at, go get it. Jl. Pantai Berawa No.44, Tibubeneng, Kuta Utara, Kabupaten Badung, Bali 80361 0813-3791-5791.
TOGURUGA FILM HONORED AT UBUD FILM FESTIVAL
he International Indigenous Film Festival Bali has honored TOGURUGA, Director Carlo Coral’s meditation on the child surfers of Morotai. Building their own surfboards from jungle trees or the shipwrecks that wash ashore on their island, this child tribe of stoked surfers is a joy to behold. Coral’s seamless cinematography and languid editing make this short film not one to miss. A reminder of the child inside us all and how much we love surfing. Look for new showings all over Indonesia. You will be glad that you did.
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EKAJAYA FAST BOAT RIPS! T
he entire fleet of Ekajaya Fast Boats are powered by four new Volvo D16, MH 750 Horsepower engines. 210 passengers can be carried by each vessel which can cruise at a blistering 35 knots. All engines meet international standards, certified and guaranteed. Ekajaya Fast Boat is the smart solution if you have a large number of friends traveling together with or if itâ€™s just you. Our fleetâ€™s large capacity and brand new engines offer total comfort and safety, giving you the feeling that you are on your own private yacht. We have a full AC cabin, wide spaced, high quality seating, a sun deck, and complete, certified safety equipment. We cruise with the newest GPS Navigation systems, ship-to-shore radios, and roomy, comfortable toilets for all. Clearly, Ekajaya is the way to go.
SEE YOU SURF PHOTO OF THE MONTH GIVEAWAY
ook to this page each issue to see if you have been selected as the SYS photo of the month. If you are selected, its a free prize package for you. Take a look at this monthâ€™s photo from Keramas. Is it you? If so, come get your prize. Look for the SYS photographers at your favorite beach now. For more info visit www.seeyousurf.com
Available at: Deus Canggu Deus Oberoi Deus Petitenget Single Fin Drifter Uluwatu Drifter Seminyak Moon Rock Blue Panic I Blue Panic II Canaan Star Surf Huffian Line Blue Ocean Surfer Paradise Kelan Loko Surf Balianas Shop
FREE INSIGHT GIVEAWAY! Thank you Wayan Badra. And thank you for the incredible artwork. We hope to keep bringing the spirit of Indonesian surfing to you for years to come. Drop by and pick up your Insight prize package anytime. We are as stoked as you are.
Jabodetabek: PT.Gagan Indonesia (Ipanema), PT.Sukses Sinar Abadi (NIXON), PT.Exhibition Network Indonesia, PT. Indonesia AirAsia, PT.Harindotama Mandiri (OP & Redsand), Pola Grade, PT.Coca - Cola Distribution Indonesia, BEAM GLOBAL ASIA PTE LTD, PT. Amerta Indah Otsuka (Pocari Sweat), Point Break Bekasi, Point Break Blok M, Point Break Karawaci, Point Break Kelapa Gading, Point Break Serang, Point Break Taman Anggrek, Point Break Aeon Tanggerang, Djournal Cilandak town square, J.co Cilandak town square, Brew&co Cilandak Town Square, Kopiluwak Cilandak Town Square, Tapas movida Cilandak Town Square, Excelco Cilandak Town Square, Starbuck Cilandak Town Square, Hagendaz Cilandak Town Square, My Kopi Cilandak Town Square, Conouseour Cilandak Town Square, Liberica Cilandak Town Square, The Coffe Bean Cilandak Town Square, Malay Village Cilandak Town Square, Mangkok putih Cilandak Town Square, Fish&co Cilandak Town Square, Hatten wines Kemang, Coffe corner Kemang, Largo bistro Kemang, Beergarden Kemang, Moe’s place Kemang, The coffe bean Kemang, Kopi seruput Kemang, Chiken chon Kemang, Esia café Kemang, Anomali café Kemang, Signature café Kemang, Café mondo Kemang, Koi Kemang, VIN + Kemang, JCO Kemang, Casa Kemang, Takigawa Kemang, Starbuck Kemang, Pizza marzano Kemang, Kedai kopi 89 Kemang, Daily bread Pondok Indah Mall 1, Kafe betawi Pondok Indah Mall 1, Regal coffe Pondok Indah Mall 1, The coffe bean Pondok Indah Mall 1, Chopstix Pondok Indah Mall 1, Out Back Pondok Indah Mall 1, Starbuck coffee Pondok Indah Mall 1, J.Co Pondok Indah Mall 1, Teritorri Pondok Indah Mall 1, Fatburger Pondok Indah Mall 1, Soursally Pondok Indah Mall 1, Taichan Pondok Indah Mall 2, Regal coffe Pondok
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Indah Mall 2, jitllada Pondok Indah Mall 2, Takigawa Pondok Indah Mall 2, Bakerzin Pondok Indah Mall 2, Hanei Pondok Indah Mall 2, Din tai fung Pondok Indah Mall 2, Shabu tei Pondok Indah Mall 2, The Café Cartel Pondok Indah Mall 2, Radja Ketjil Pondok Indah Mall 2, Fish & co Pondok Indah Mall 2, Suntiang Pondok Indah Mall 2, Coldstone Pondok Indah Mall 2, Seruput Pondok Indah Mall 2, Opasuki Pondok Indah Mall 2, Sushi tei Pondok Indah Mall 2, Pizza marzano Pondok Indah Mall 2, Dellifrance Pondok Indah Mall 2, Victoria caffe Pondok Indah Mall 2, The coffe bean Pondok Indah Mall 2, Krispy kreme Pondok Indah Mall 2, Red bean Pondok Indah Mall 1, Hagen daz Pondok Indah Mall 2, Kenny Roger Roasters Pondok Indah Mall 2, Killiney Kopitiam Grand Indonesia, Sushi Tei Grand Indonesia, Kopi Luwak Grand Indonesia, Kenny Roger Roasters Grand Indonesia, Kafe Betawi Grand Indonesia, Fish & co Grand Indonesia, Cali Deli Grand Indonesia, Pizza Marzano Grand Indonesia, Starbuck Coffe Grand Indonesia, Burger King Grand Indonesia, Krispy Kreme Grand Indonesia, The Coffe Bean Grand Indonesia Lt. 1, Hagen Daz Grand Indonesia, Takigawa Grand Indonesia, Djournal Grand Indonesia, Sushi Tei Plaza Indonesia, Starbuck Plaza Indonesia, The Coffee Bean Plaza Indonesia, Segafredo Plaza Indonesia, Shabu-shabu house Plaza Indonesia, Opus café Plaza Indonesia, Chopstix Plaza Indonesia, Kitchenette Plaza Indonesia, Bakerzin Plaza Indonesia, Kopi Luwak Plaza Indonesia, Red tomato Plaza Indonesia, Fatburger Plaza Indonesia, Kafe Betawi Plaza Indonesia, Yakun Kaya Toast Plaza Indonesia, Bistro baron Plaza Indonesia. Jawa Barat: Point Break Bandung Super Mall, Heaven Skateboard, Asep Kusdinar Pangandaran.
Jawa Timur: Point Break World Tunjungan Plaza II. Jawa Tengah dan DIY Jogyakarta: Point Break Hartono.
Point Break World Banjarmasin, Point Break Pentacity Mall.
Point Break World Panakkukang, Point Break Gorontalo, Point Break Palopo, Point Break Tantura Palu.
Point Break Mall Ambon City Centre, Point Break Maluku City Mall, Point Break Ternate.
Point Break Andalas Padang, Point Break Basko, Point Break Batam Centre, Point Break Palembang Square, Point Break World Palembang Icon, Square extension, Point Break Ciputra Pekan Baru, Point Break Sun Plaza Medan, Substance padang.
NUSA TENGGARA BARAT
Royal Surf Mataram, Senggigi, Billabong Gili Trawangan, Blue Surf Gili Trawangan, Hurley Gili Trawangan, Sumbawa (Pesawat Trans Nusa DPS-Dompu, Lakey), Sempiak Vila Selong Belanak, Lombok.
Kuta: Alam Kul-Kul Hotel, Back Door, Balcony Rest & Bar, Huffian, Bali Learn To Surf, Billabong Kuta Square, Bliss Wayan Hotel, Blue Groove, Blue Ocean Shop, Blue Panic I, Blue Panic II, Dragon Office, Dragon Shop, Eikon Bar, G-Land, Halfway Surf, Hard Rock Café, Hard Rock Radio,
Hot Banana, Hurley Kuta Square, Hurley Poppies Lane II, Indodream, Hurley Factory Outlet Simpang Siur, Naruki, Oddyseys Surfing School, Ovault Legian, Papaya Surf, Pro Surf School, PT.Billabong Indonesia Office, Quiksilver Beachwalk, Quiksilver Kuta Square, Quiksilver Premium, Ripcurl Bemo Corner, Ripcurl Kuta Square, Rip Curl Memo, Star Surf, Sunkissed, Surfer Girl, Surfer Girl Office, Surfer Girl PODS, The Pit, Toke, Tubes Bar, Volcom Bemo Corner, Volcom Kuta Square, Yayasan GUS, Bali Niksoma Hotel, BSO, Cozy, Hurley Factory Outlet, Istana Rama Hotel, Kuta Seaview Hotel, Luke Studer Shop, Mercure Hotel, Nero Bali, OZ Radio, POP Hotel, PT.Jarosite (Rip Curl), PT.Sinar Sosro, PT. Transnusa Air Services (TransNusa), Ramayana Hotel, Rip Curl OSO, Rip Curl Sunset Road, Rosso Vivo, Ryosi Restaurant, Starbuck Café Pantai, Take Restaurant, The 101 Legian Hotel, The Stones, TJ’s Restaurant, VI AI PI, Hotel Santika, Blue Wave, Trans Nusa. Tuban: Aston Kuta, Bali Dynasty Hotel, Bamboo Restaurant, Batan Waru Restaurant, Billabong Discovery Mall, Blue Fin, Bubba Gum, Ryoshi, Discovery Hotel, Envy Restaurant, Golden Lotus, Hacienda Restaurant, Holiday Inn Resort, Hurley Discovery Mall, Kuta Lines Discovery Mall, Kuta Paradiso Hotel, Magani Hotel, PT. Volcom Indonesia Office, Quiksilver Discovery Mall, Ramada Bintang Bali, Risata Bali Resort. Legian: Dahui, All Season Hotel, Camankila Hotel, Cibola, Huck Happy Store, Hurley Legian, Jayakarta Hotel,Legian Beach Hotel, Macaroni Bar Bar & Restautant, Ovault Beachwalk, Poco Loco Bar & Rest, PT.Jaya Bersama (Rip Curl Surf School), PT.Quiksilver Indonesia, Quiksilver Café, Quiksilver Legian, Ripcurl
Legian, Ripcurl Melasti, Sky Surf, SWICH Restaurant, Tanaya Bed and Breakfast, The Bokha Hotel, The Granmas Hotel Jl. Legian, Trattoria, Zanzibar Restaurant, Bali Mandira Hotel. Seminyak, Oberoi, Petitenget: Afends, Anantara Seminyak Resort & Spa, Biku Restaurant, Billabong Bintang, Billabong Seminyak, Canggu Deli, Channel Islands, Cocoon Restaurant, DC Seminyak Square, Deus Oberoi, Deus Petitenget, Drifter Shop, Fave Hotel, Hurley Indonesia, Hurley Oberoi, Insight Seminyak, IZE Hotel, Laca-Laca Restaurant, Lanai Restaurant, Made’s Warung Seminyak, Mannekepis Restaurant, Meja Kitchen & Bar, Motel Mexicola Restaurant, Oakley Seminyak, Volcom Shop, Petitenget Restaurant, Potato Head, Puravida Seminyak, Quiksilver Bintang, Quiksilver Oberoi, Quiksilver Petitenget, Red Carpet, Rip Curl Bintang, Rip Curl Seminyak, Rumors Restaurant, Ryosi Restaurant, Single FIN Seminyak, SOHO Restaurant, Surfer Girl Seminyak Square, Tekor Bali Restaurant, The Grandmas Hotel Dyana Pura, The Haven Hotel, Betelnut Restaurant, Black Canyon Seminyak Square, By The Sea Shop, Chandi Restaurant, Dylon Long Bottom, Eat Well Restaurant, Queens Tandor Restaurant, Taco Casa, Miyura Restaurant, Kinky Tiki Bar. Nusa Dua: Nusa Dua Beach Grill, PT.Bali Bijaksana (Oakley) Office, Ovault Nusa Dua. Uluwatu, Jimbaran: Surfer Paradise Kelan, Drifter Office, Hansel Surfboards, Quiksilver Uluwatu, Single Fin Shop, Single Fin Restaurant, Warung Ketty, Warung Lana, White Monkey, Surf Edge/ Uluwatu Café, Noh by Pison, Nusa Surf, Loko Shop. Secret Spot Jimbaran.
Sanur, Denpasar: Bali Adventure Tours, Bali Hai Cruise, Batu Jimbar Restaurant, BIMC Hospital, Bir Bintang, Bounty Cruise, Coca-Cola Distribution Bali, CV.Royalindo Pacific (No Fear), G-Xtreme, International SOS, Yoska Surf, Kopi Bali, Ombak Shop, PT. Planet Selancar Mandiri, Red Bull, Rip Curl Sanur, Starbuck Café Sanur, Tiket To the Moon, Tiara Dewata, Soputan, Tiara Dewata Denpasar, Tiara Dewata MonangManing, Tiara Dewata Gatsu, Toko Buku Leny, Kios Rama, Bali Scuba, Ocean Gravity (Bali Diving School), Nova Dive Center, All 4 Diving, Billabong. Canggu: Billabong Batu Bolong, Billabong Canggu, Café di Batu Bolong, Café di Echo Beach, Café di Jalan Uluwatu, Deus Canggu, Hurley Brawa, PT.Deus Ex Machina Indonesia Office, Quiksilver Canggu / Echo Beach, REDZ Surf Boards, Reef Canggu, Hurley Outlet Store Berawa, Seven Shores / 69 Slam, Oldmans Restaurant & Bar, The Lawn. Balianas shop, Loco Shop, Canggu Deli, Swich Brawa, Loko Shop, Brawa Surf Shop, Matcha Cafe Brawa, Nude Cafe Brawa, Onboard Store Batu Bolong, Echo Beach Club Canggu. Secret Spot Brawa Tabanan: Toko Buku Sastra Mas. Gianyar: Bali Zoo, Komune Hotel, Bali Safari & Marine Park, SOBEK Lembongan : Billabong Lembongan
Carkit Agent (Far East ) Pte Ltd.
Media Partner ASC (Asian Surfing Championship)
CLOSE OU T:
SIGNS OF THE TIMES I
n a new regular feature for Surftime Magazine, we will be taking a look back at what has made the sport so great. Because you cannot know where you are going unless you know where you have been. Contributions of our proud past welcome. Just send them to Surftimemagazine@gmail.com. There is a t-shirt in it for you
1969. Sunset Beach, Oahu, Hawaii.Way before man on man competition and leashes and thrusters and videos, the Duke Kahanamoku Classic featured 9 men in the finals Think about that. From left to right: Joey Cabell Eddie Aikau, Billy Hamilton, Fred Hemmings, Gordo Barreda, Paul Strauch, Mike Doyle, Rolf Arness and Felipe Pomar. Left: 1970. At the height of his powers, Muralist, cartoonist, artist Rick Griffin took a break from creating the psychedelic eraâ€™s greatest rock posters to pen this mural for the surf movie Pacific Vibrations. It was a groovy time in surfing and a great time for rock and roll and a grim time in Vietnam. But posters like this defined the anti-war movement and eventually were instrumental in bringing it to a close. Surfers, natural protesters from the very beginning, were part of it all. Both images courtesy of Taschen books, SURFING by Jim Heiman. Visit: www.taschen.com
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Photography by Marcus Paladino
THE LOCALS ONLY ISSUE # 113 | V.19 N.3 |