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#3/2018
IN WOMEN WE TRUST Next (Female) Generation Cool Young Women are Changing the Italian Fashion Industry Object and Subject Is Feminism Allowed to be Sexy? Heterogeneous, Demanding, and Confident Women as a Target Group in the Digital Age New Cool! What Matters in S/S 2019
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006 EDITORIAL
Turning Point Welcome to these lines. This entire magazine is dedicated to the strong, admirable, and engaged women who shape the fashion industry. The fact that we decided against singling out a particular individual on the cover of style in progress, as we usually do, is of substantively content-related nature. If there is one term that reoccurs in the interviews we conducted with influential women, it is togetherness. They miss such togetherness and are keen to strengthen it in various ways. Solidarity, networks, and alliances are the Achilles heel of empowerment. “Modern women still find it difficult enough to have children while working and to fulfil the standards set by ourselves and society. Furthermore, we women don’t show solidarity to each other. Women with stronger personalities are often envied and disparaged, especially by other women. I sense a lack of team spirit when fighting for a hugely important common cause. Where’s the courage in terms of fashion and our own personalities? This concerns us all, ladies!,” says Andrea Frauenschuh of Frauenschuh in Kitzbühel. She thus sums up one of the common themes in our Statements section (Is Fashion Female?; from page 056) perfectly. But a new generation of female entrepreneurs and executives who are capable of overcoming all kinds of adversities has already arrived. We take an in-depth look at Italian women in particular (Grandezza; from page 074). Women such as Francesca Lusini, Anna Baschirotto, Martina Sossi, Silvia Mazzoli, and Caterina Negra enjoy successful careers in spite of - not because of - the social and economic challenges of recent years and decades. When pondering women and their respective positions, one should not forget the consumers’ point of view. For them, fashion is more than just a pretty shell. Female retailers from Amberg, Berlin, Düsseldorf, Graz, Heidelberg, and Kitzbühel (In Their Eyes; from page 148) draw a colourful kaleidoscope of styles and target groups with the assistance of our illustrator Claudia Meitert. But more than that: they define new values. The good news is that fashion is gaining depth; in “New German” one may call this content. Fashion always had this depth, but it is becoming increasingly important in terms of consumers’ purchase decisions. But where can one indulge in intelligent consumption? For example, in the new stores that style in progress has unearthed (In Store; from page 154). And of course where you work, esteemed readers. After all, it’s all of you who make highquality fashion retailing what it is and always will be: a place of encounter, change, and personality. Cover artwork: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler, Elisabeth Prock-Huber. Photos: provided
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We wish you an inspirational read, Your style in progress team
008 CONTENT
006 EDITORIAL Turning Point
016 RIGHT NOW 122 WANT IT
030 052
WHAT'S THE STORY
IN WOMEN WE TRUST 050 Female Alliance Why women need to put their own house in order first - an opinion piece by Martina Müllner-Seybold. 052 “Strong Women Inspire Me” For designer Dorothee Schumacher, it’s not merely about beautiful dresses, but about beautiful women. 056 Is Fashion Female? Between androgynous design and the proverbial glass ceiling: women from within the fashion industry share their views. 070 “I Can’t Say #MeToo” If one is the Design Director at H&M for 20 years, one dresses more women than any other fashion designer. Margareta van den Bosch sat down for a chat with us. 074 GRANDEZZA What’s so special about the image of women in Italy, you ask? Well, it dresses us - and it’s currently reinventing itself. 076 “Women Want To Be Authentic” Francesca Lusini, the president of Peuterey, strives to return the brand to old strength. 074
078 “Our Perspective Is Female” Liu Jo’s Anna Baschirotto is keen to intensify the dialogue with customers. 080 “We Bear Responsibility” Martina Sossi of 19/91 Lateral Product embodies a new generation of female entrepreneurs. 082 “Fashion Is Edging Closer To Everyday Life” Erika Cavallini’s vision of female beauty follows no predefined pattern. 084 “Equal Opportunities Are Important To Us” Family-owned Pinko traditionally boasts a high proportion of women among its employees - Caterina Negra represents the dynasty’s second generation. 085 “Women Are Changing” She was never a conformist: Silvia Mazzoli of Ottod’Ame designs for women who are like her. 086 “Sometimes I Need To Bare My Claws” Elisabetta Franchi is the heart and soul of her brand. 088 “I Don’t Lose Myself In Discussions” The Orciani sisters are a breath of fresh air at the eponymous accessories manufacturer.
070
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090 “We Never Needed To Reinvent Ourselves” Always in line with its customers: Marc Cain is more mature and younger alike.
www.marc-cain.com
010 CONTENT
094 How Will Women Buy Tomorrow? Nicoletta Schaper sat down with both female consumers and retailers to chat about the joy and woes of shopping. 102 Between Object and Subject Strong women - and a man - reflect on the image of women in fashion. 108 FEMPOWER Women’s careers are also professional careers. 109 “One Needs To Accept Support” As a board member at KATAG, Angelika Schindler-Obenhaus is responsible for billions in sales. 090
110 “We Are The Pippi Longstocking Of The Fashion Industry” Odd Molly CEO Jennie Högstedt Björk has a clear mission: create more Mollys! 112 “We Still Have Enormous Potential” Ulli Ehrlich is a mother of five and the second generation at the helm of Sportalm Kitzbühel. 114 1 + 1 = A+ Two become one: Plein Sud is in the process of a crucial re-launch. 116 On Course for Expansion Heritage brand Paul & Shark is setting course for the future. 117 Everything Easy Italo-brand Circolo 1901 combines classic silhouettes with modern comfort. 118 Life Needs Lemons! Who dances in the rain and smells like lemons? It’s Lemon Jelly. 119 “We Play With Italian Style” Federico Rosi, the Sales Director of Manuel Ritz, opens up about the brand’s plans for the future. 120 Free The Sea North Sails has a new strategy and a noble objective: it strives to battle ocean pollution.
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121 A New Desirability Airfield has pushed the reset button - now the brand also has a new sales strategy in place.
FASHION 132 The New Cool Trends, you ask? Yes, they exist! The comfort mega-trend is but one example. 148 In Their Eyes Female retailers share the women they envisage during the order process.
IN STORE 154 Silent Luxury. Ohhh de Cologne/Cologne 156 The Impossible Possible. Gschwantler/Kirchberg 158 Added Value. Kevin in the Woods/Zurich 160 Lakeside Store. Trunk Clothiers/Zurich 162 The Era of Nous Begins. Nous/Paris 164 A Question of Personality. Du Nord/Oldenburg 166 Forever. Zeitlos/Rottach-Egern, Munich
168 EDITOR'S LETTER Viva l'Italia 162
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168 ABOUT US
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Right Now Alberto Alexa - Here to Stay
Phil Petter Successful Growth
Tradition and longevity are enjoying a revival within the fashion industry. Phil Petter, a family business from Vorarlberg, knows how to create sustainable fashion. The label has been producing knitwear at an exclusive level for decades. High-quality yarns that are mostly sourced from Italy and South Tyrol, great attention to detail, and proven craftsmanship form a solid foundation. Success proves the fabric experts from Vorarlberg right. The autumn/ winter 2018/19 sales season saw the knitwear manufacturer experience a handsome revenue boost in the double-digit range. Above all, the new Alpine collection quickly established itself as a draught horse and international bestseller. Founder and owner Kurt Petter has every reason to be pleased: “Our dynamic sales development shows that we are heading in the right direction and that quality products made in Austria are highly attractive, not least in Asian and American countries.” www.philpetter.com
At Alberto, Alexa now also supports training measures.
Is there an affinity to technology? In Alberto’s case there is. At the beginning of 2017, the concept store in Mönchengladbach was the first in Germany to utilise Alexa’s voice-activated technology. Ever since, the digital assistant has been answering the various questions of customers regarding collections, styles, and fits. Now, Alberto goes a step further and promotes Alexa to a technical assistant. As a voice-driven interaction system, she assists custom managers during training sessions. Alexa asks questions and the participants - Alberto specialists from the stores - answer. To this end, the latter are equipped with buzzers. Alexa reacts immediately with “right” or “wrong” and even provides additional background information on the topic. With such a concentrated charm offensive by this voice-to-voice technology, swift learning success is guaranteed. In addition, the Alberto salespeople and retailers remain well-informed about collections, products, and brands. www.alberto-pants.com
Save the Duck The Saviours of the World
Phil Petter relies heavily on timeless design, exquisite materials, and excellent quality: double-digit growth rates prove the family business right.
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With its spring/summer 2019 collection, Milan-based label Save the Duck has taken yet another step towards sustainability. The brand has made a name for itself as an innovative manufacturer of jackets that don’t contain animal components. Embedded in the sustainability strategy of the parent company Forest 1914, CEO Nicolas Bragi and his team are constantly working on making the label even more environmentally friendly and resource-efficient. In line with this approach, the labelling of its three lines is impeccable. If the duck frolics in front of an orange backdrop, the item is vegan. If it frolics on a green label, it contains additional recycled materials. The “Ocean is my Home” logo with a light blue background is new. It adorns products made of recycled fishing nets. In terms of higher fashion, the company has created an exclusive designer collection in collaboration with Dyne. Christopher Bevans, the latter’s Creative Director, gained fame as the Global Design Director of Nike’s urban apparel line before working on the clothing collections of Jay Z and Kanye West. He was also the Creative Director of Billionaire Boys Club, a label launched by Pharell Williams and Nigo, and successfully established his own brand thereafter. He has now created a total look capsule collection for Save the Duck, with strong streetwear influences. This exclusive range is available at the international showroom Tomorrow. Could the total look approach hint at an extension of the core collection? We are certainly intrigued. Given that a financial investor recently injected funds to finance ambitious expansion plans, the idea may not be as absurde as it sounds. www.savetheduck.com
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Bernhard Aschauer’s CMH GmbH is the representative of K-WAY in Germany and Austria with immediate effect.
Woolrich Drum Roll for Woolrich’s Outdoor Label
CMH GmbH Colourful Newcomer
The art of living? It’s all about dancing in the rain. Jean-Claude Duhamel, the founder of K-WAY, knows a thing or two about rain. His idea for a lightweight, completely water-repellent jacket was born during torrential rainfall in Paris in 1965. These jackets are still the main attraction of the label, even though the nylon windbreakers have long since been supplemented by a fashion line for women, men, and children. This mix of quality materials and designs - classic, modern, or functional - allows K-WAY to stand out from the crowd. CMH GmbH has secured the license rights for Germany and Austria. “We are especially pleased to welcome K-WAY to CMH GmbH, in addition to Superga and Sebago. I see great potential in brands that stand for an iconic piece, yet are capable of more and willing to prove it in broad collections,” says Bernhard Aschauer, the managing director of CMH GmbH. In terms of sales, the company receives support from Düsseldorf-based Agentur Baessler and Munich-based Agentur Kappler. The communication is handled by Munich-based PR agency Think Inc. www.k-way.com
The official debut was at the Pitti Uomo, but it was a badly kept secret that Woolrich had been working on an outdoor line behind closed doors. The reasons for this move: the roots that made the brand famous in the US and the fact that Woolrich Japan recently entered into a very extensive partnership with Japanese company Goldwin. The latter is not only wellknown for its own apparel line, but also as a manufacturer of functional fibres and production partner of other brands. So now the first collection is finally here. Eco, durability, and fun are Woolrich’s keywords for its outdoor line. It combines natural fibres with the latest technology, for people who seek the symbiosis of life outdoors and everyday activities. Woolrich Outdoor Label is characterised by an aesthetic, minimalist design language, versatile key pieces, and the highly zeitgeist-appropriate combination of fashion and function. www.woolrich.eu
Deus ex Machina A Man’s Dream
Deus ex Machina stands for cool menswear with surfer and biker image.
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Cool menswear, a credible story, and an excellent price: Deus ex Machina has all the ingredients to be a revenue generator in the premium retail segment. Accordingly, the label has restructured its distribution network in the German-speaking markets. In order to generate selective and controlled growth, Komet and Helden serves Germany and Austria, while Wearhouse has been hired to cover the Swiss market. Deus ex Machina’s roots lie in Australia, where the brand was created in a backyard workshop specialising in custom bikes and surfboards. The initial idea has long since developed into a whole lifestyle, with stores in Sydney, Los Angeles, Bali, Milan, and Tokyo. The menswear range originates from Italy and not only appeals to surfers, bikers, riders, and skaters. The collection includes tees and sweats, as well as pants and caps, in sun-bleached looks. All pieces feature badges that refer to the label’s roots. “Deus ex Machina is a perfect match for our brand portfolio,” says Wearhouse MD Patrick Ebnoether. “Retail prices ranging from 39 to 99 Euros ensure that young customers become fans who perceive Deus as a cool brand.” www. deuscustom.com, www.kometundhelden.de, www.wearhouse.ch
Something completely new: Woolrich has launched its first outdoor line.
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It must be love: Superga emotionalises its shoes with great success.
Superga “I Love Them!”
Shoes by the Italian brand Superga are among the bestsellers of recent seasons, be they canvas shoes in pure white, one of the countless colour variations, or models in metallic tones made of leather and with plateau soles. The brand’s image has changed lately, mainly due to numerous collaborations such as most recently with model and presenter Alexa Chung, as well as German blogger Caro Daur. Sales have been increasing steadily ever since Turin-based BasicNet SpA took over the management of Superga. BasicNet also manages Kappa, K-Way, and Sebago. “We are currently preparing a series of events aimed at supporting our brick-and-mortar retailers and maintaining our brand image. We strive to stay in constant contact with customers and supporters of Superga, thus making the brand more tangible for consumers with pleasant events, as well as creating lasting attention and excitement,” says Bernhard Aschauer, the owner of Superga Germany. “Our target group
loves Superga and proves it every day, for instance on Instagram. More often than not, our followers write ‘I love them’ in the comments section below the posts. That’s probably the most rewarding statement for a brand. When a product triggers such strong emotions, it increases desirability. The product undergoes an evolution from an exchangeable commodity into a distinctive must-have. Over the last few years, Superga has managed to attract a new, young, and fresh audience that loves the white classic and associates it with emotions and an attitude of freedom and luxury. The brand enjoys a great reputation and is associated with Italy, summer, sun, effortlessness, La Dolce Vita, holidays, and sports, especially in social networks. Thus it has become a product that is desired,” explains Holger Petermann of Think Inc, the communication agency that has served Superga in Germany for more than six years. www.superga.de
Fil Noir A Summer of Ease and Colour
Stripes and more, an indescribably feminine style, and the “finest jersey shirt in the world”… Fil Noir is surprising, summery, and colourful. The Italian shirt specialist celebrates the warm season with light and flowing fabrics, summer prints, and an extra dose of colour. The label’s customers can still expect the tried and tested, but - more than in previous seasons - the spring/summer 2019 collection is complemented by fashionable subtleties. This applies to the Donna and Uomo line alike. In addition, the expert in premium fashion surprises with the “finest jersey shirt in the world”. Fil Noir is committed to colours and patterns. Traditional stripe styles meet exceptional maxi and micro prints, as well as floral designs that range from subtle to lush. The popular variations of blue are blended with vibrant colours. The fabrics are light, fragrant, and flowing. There is no limit to linen. For spring/summer 2019, Fil Noir Donna is colourful and displays unexpectedly feminine attributes: materials, silhouettes, and colours pay homage to femininity. Numerous new blouse styles and dress silhouettes complement the classic shirt range, which surprises with extremely feminine details this season. In addition, an exclusive selection of new, trend-oriented designs adds a contemporary angle to the popular and successful classics within the collection. Once again, the Italian shirt specialist proves its sense for the extraordinary, as well as of quality and perfection - with finishes and details that are second to none. The result is a collection in the spirit of the ease and freshness of summer. www.fil-noir.com 318 style in progress
Le Paris Polo is Lacoste’s successful attempt at leading its iconic design into the future.
Lacoste Le Paris Polo The New Polo Shirt
The French word for crocodile is actually “crocodile”, but the unofficial term surely has to be “Lacoste”. It was tennis player Jean René Lacoste, nicknamed L’Alligator, who invented the polo shirt out of resentment against the stiff jackets and long shirts he was required to wear oncourt. Lacoste’s animal namesake was chosen as the official logo and placed on the chest. The rest is history. To this day, the thick-skinned reptile adorns the sportswear collections of the international label. The range was recently expanded to include a symbiosis of traditional business shirts and sportive polo elegance. The result is called Le Paris Polo and impresses with a straight fit, short length, crease-resistant fabrics, and unrestricted freedom of movement. The stiffened collar and the concealed button tape make the polo the perfect partner for blazers and jackets. 15 colour variations make the choice substantial. Naturally, Lacoste doesn’t abandon the obligatory crocodile for Le Paris Polo: the tonal-embroidered logo subtly ensures that certain something. The new model is available at all Lacoste boutiques, on lacoste.com, and at selected retail partners. www.lacoste.com
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Holubar
First Summer Collection
Holubar, founded in 1947, is a brand that is adored by mountaineers. “In the late 1970s and early 1980s, Holubar was one of the leading organisers of the Annapurna Mountain Trail Race, a mountain race in the Himalaya massif of Nepal,” explains Tomislav Grajzar of Holubar Distribution. The visuals of the print motifs of the new summer collection stem from the brand’s own archive. Holubar gained fame in America and Europe as a true jacket specialist. One of the cult pieces is the orange all-year parka worn by Robert De Niro in the 1972 movie The Deer Hunter. The new summer collection includes a number of light jackets for women and men. At a mark-up of 2.6, retail prices range from 249 to 349 Euros. The printed, Italian-made sweatshirts are yet another highlight. “The rough-knit sweaters, which are made to 100 percent of Cotton Americano, are especially light and were initially very popular among mountaineers due to their breathability. Top quality is ensured by renowned Italian production partners. We quite deliberately develop products that are comfortable to wear, easy to use, and flexible. We strive to offer iconic pieces that meet high standards and demands,” Grajzar adds. In addition, Holubar supplies shorts and swimwear (RRP 99 Euros), accessories such as a tote bag with leather appliqués (RRP 249 Euros), and a rucksack (RRP 179 Euros). The whole collection consists of approx. 40 pieces in many different colours. The team of Room With A View, headed by Christian Obojes, is responsible for sales in Austria. The sales representative in Germany is Düsseldorf-based Modeagentur Weiß, while the Swiss market is covered by Urs Schuler. Holubar was reanimated by sportswear legend Alberto Raengo in 2010. His partners are Grajzar and Thomas Köhler. The customer service centre for the German-speaking markets is located in Germany, while the warehouse is in Italy. www.holubar.it
IQ+ Berlin stands for sporty outerwear, with coolness and function.
IQ+ Berlin Back to Success
The great success of IQ+ Berlin’s parkas for men and women has made history, particularly in the German-speaking premium fashion market: a cool product with function and recognition value at retail prices around 549 Euros. Now Carsten Scheer and Harald Heldmann, founders of IQ+ Berlin and owners of newly founded Essential Style, want to return the brand to its former glory by establishing a financial basis for future growth, as well as a steady focus on its core strength: premium sportswear. The delivery of the autumn/ winter collection is already being handled by Essential Style, whose new production and logistics structures help maintain the brand’s positioning on the market as a premium outdoor sportswear supplier. Scheer remains responsible for product management, marketing, and sales, while administration, production, and logistics are taken over by Hamburg-based Essential Style.
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Holubar’s new summer collection focuses on authentic representation of the brand’s history.
WE RESPECT ANIMALS, WE RECYCLE, WE CLEAN THE OCEAN.
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Jean Atelier was co-founded by Jerome Dahan, fellow founder of 7 for all Mankind and Citizens of Humanity.
JOOP x The Fontenay Hotel Hamburg The Sales Team’s New Clothes
When one shares an exclusive location on Hamburg’s “Aussenalster”, it seems prudent to work together. This rings especially true in the case of Joop and five-star luxury hotel The Fontenay. After all, the brand and the new figurehead of Hamburg’s culinary world not only share a neighbourhood, but are also amazingly similar in terms of values - especially in their common quest for utter perfection. It comes as no surprise that this has resulted in a creative cooperation. The members of the sales team at The Fontenay have been supplied with modern classics from the Joop collections for women and men. The suits embody today’s business fashion. At the same time, they combine timeless elegance, high wearing comfort, and a dash of zeitgeist. Design, materiality, workmanship, and attention to detail are the hallmarks of Joop. The designer label’s collection contributes to the elegant line of the hotel concept. This truly is neighbourhood assistance on another level. www.joop.com
Jean Atelier Luxury Denim Neighbours help each other out: the sales team of The Fontenay have been equipped with Joop suits, thus emphasising the elegance of the “Aussenalster” area.
Made in LA, all materials are from Japan, and the accessories hail from Italy. These facts alone prove how sophisticated Jean Atelier is. The driving force behind the label is Jerome Dahan’s passion for denim. Dahan is known as the founder of 7 for all Mankind and Citizens for Humanity. He therefore has sufficient experience in terms of successful LA luxury denim brands. Dahan co-founded Jean Atelier, which perceives itself as a highend denim label for women that combines coolness and inconspicuous sex appeal, with Noam Hanoch. Jennifer Lawrence, Gigi Hadid, and Kourtney Kardashian
are among the fans of the collection, which is stocked by the likes of Barneys New York, Moda Operandi, Matches Fashion, and Le Bon Marché. The collection consists of jeans and shorts, skirts, dresses, and jackets in figure-flattering silhouettes with a tricolour embroidered stripe as recognition feature. The brand is represented by Brama Group in the EU, UK, Russia, and the Middle East. At a mark-up of 2.7, purchase prices range from 120 to 180 Euros. www.jeanatelier.com
Sun68 Down at the Beach
Bright orange and white contrasts: a fresh and happy first beachwear collection by Sun68.
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Sun68 first presented a small capsule collection of men’s beachwear for spring/summer 2019 at the Pitti in Florence and will showcase it again at the Premium in Berlin. It features two models of bathing shorts in three different material options in bright orange with white contrasts, as well as shirts with colourful floral prints. Parts of the collection are available in children’s sizes - perfect for twinning your style with the little ones. Accessories such as towels, caps, and beach bags complete the collection. www.sun68.com
RENÉ LACOSTE
NOVAK DJOKOVIC
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Glücklich Contemporary Alpitude
Glücklich has been in business for ten years; the label opened its own small store five years ago.
Ten years of vision - Glücklich prioritises modern design that blends with tradition. That’s why the South Tyrolean company has been cooperating with small, highly qualified manufacturers since its beginnings in 2008. These alliances not only guarantee reliable craftsmanship, but also finest fabrics and sophisticated design. The result is timeless, high-quality fashion. For the upcoming collection, Glücklich is focusing on colourful accents. The soft Super Light knitwear for women and men is the ideal solution for indoors and outdoors. In terms of ready-to-wear fashion, the label relies on light tweed fabrics and summery boiled wool from regional producers. They are turned into elegant blazers and sporty jackets. And if that’s not enough to make you happy, Glücklich opened its own little store in the centre of Eppan in 2013. It’s high time to raise the glasses and spoil customers with a limited edition that is currently only available in the store in Eppan. www.gluecklich.it
04651/ Quality and Elegance
Following its market entry initiated by the team of Hamburg-based designer menswear multi-brand store Braun, the menswear label 04651/ is thrilled to serve more than 60 top customers. Braun, however, is not satisfied yet. “It’s time to take it to the next level,” says MD Lars Braun. Participating in the Pitti Uomo in January has not only promoted internationalisation, but was also a clear statement of intent. “With this appearance, we have surely shown everyone how dedicated we are to the success of 04651/. This is not merely a side project of a successful retailer. We believe this market harbours enormous potential,” says Mathias Garske, the responsible Brand Manager. It therefore comes as no surprise that Marcel Egner, an experienced product expert, has been hired as General Manager. Until recently, Egner amassed extensive expertise in the sales department of Stone Island. He brings an excellent network and a high profile to the table. “We are eager to exploit the potential of 04651/ to its fullest extent. I know the qualities of Marcel Egner and the input he can provide in terms of brand development from personal experience,” Lars Braun adds. The new collection remains in line with the brand motto: “A Trip in a Bag”. However, the overall feel of the collection is a little less formal. Garske explains: “Our typical customer likes feeling relaxed in all situations of life, especially when at leisure. This target group is used to switching between business and leisure time seamlessly.” Lars Braun adds: 318 style in progress
04651/ is keen to take business to the next level with a new in-house distribution unit.
“Grip, feel, and comfort are the key factors. 04651/ is cool and informal, but always committed to quality and elegance.” The collection is on display in the new showroom in Munich’s Glockenbach district. www.04651-sylt.de
The team of Dfrost, a renowned retail identity agency headed by Christoph Stelzer, leads retailers into a bright future.
Dfrost Focus on Customer Needs
Christoph Stelzer, CEO and Co-Founder of Dfrost Retail Identity, can sense that change is imminent. “Diversification is the crucial buzzword, as it is the factor that continues to shape the future of the retail industry. On the one hand, this results in a multiplication of business due to numerous trade channels. On the other hand, it means that the number of narrowing target groups is increasing. Both retailers and brands need to come to terms with the fact that a physical store is not necessarily the start or the end of a contemporary customer journey that leads to a purchase. Above all, such a scenario requires one thing: flexibility. The focus is no longer on the products, but on the customers and their needs. Contact with customers begins long before they enter a store and lasts well beyond the farewell. And yet the shopping experience is still characterised by the multi-sensory combination of the product and individual. Customised service and selective inspiration are the be all and end all. That sounds easier than one may think. However, the challenge is to have the courage to be open to new things. For example, this means that the merchandise shouldn’t be locked up and hidden in warehouses; it needs to be in motion constantly and made tangible. Pop-up stores show how it’s done. In terms of service, especially in the context of customer convenience, digitisation creates consistent, personalised, and sustainable customer experiences. It starts with classic Click & Collect services, includes interactive changing rooms, and ends with self-check outs featuring reliable mobile payment solutions. New digital technologies – tailor-made for the respective retail format – have already been implemented. In the store, however, they remain in the background and contribute to customer convenience. Be it VR, AR, or voice-assisted systems, they can all support and enhance the shopping experience when used well. The stationary brand spaces of the future will not merely be points of sale, but need to offer inspiration, experience, and entertainment. The key lies in a clear retail profile and the customer experience; in short: the best shopping experience possible for customers. It’s all about creating store concepts that are adjusted to the purchasing behaviour of modern consumers and, at the same time, actively influence and shape customer needs. The clear goal is to transform the POS into a Point of Fascination: “Stop thinking stores – start thinking stories!” Only those capable of conveying their background stories and offering sufficient space for customer needs can be successful in the future.” www.dfrost.com
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Die Hinterhof agentur “We Have Insider Tips”
After the first order round in the new showroom in “Römerstrasse” in Munich-Schwabing, the Hinterhofagentur team remains highly satisfied with its current portfolio. Dominik Meuer’s priority is always a content evolution within collections. “It’s not our intention to merely present new labels every season. We also strive to maintain excitement within existing collections and to offer our customers something new. We have the insider tips. That’s what we’re known for.” Lightning Bolt, a sportswear collection, is a new addition for spring/summer 2019. The label presents an authentic vintage-style surfer look for men and women. The concept was initially devised by a Hawaiian surfing conglomerate that consists of some of the most prominent names from the surfing scene of the 1960s and 1970s. However, the collection is now manufactured in Portugal, which guarantees beneficial and - if desired - very early delivery dates. Wool & Co, a brand that presented its first womenswear collection last autumn/winter, intends to expand its knitwear and jersey segments significantly. “Our brands focus on new and good merchandise on a consistent basis. The product is the be-all and end-all. What counts for us is the overall package that a brand offers around this product,” Meuer explains. Labels Women: Cape Horn, Des Petits Hauts, Ginger and Ruby, Lab Dip, Lightning Bolt, My Sunday Morning, Rose and Rose, The Jacksons, Wool & Co, Wyse London Labels Men: Bob, Cape Horn, Koike, Lightning Bolt, Manuel Ritz, Portofiori, Uniform Jeans, Wool & Co Die Hinterhofagentur, Munich/Germany, info@diehinterhofagentur.de, www.diehinterhofagentur.de
Lightning Bolt showcases authentic vintage surfer looks in the showroom of Die Hinterhofagentur.
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Komet und Helden Consistent Sustainability
The casual style of Deus Ex Machina appeals to men of all ages.
As of this season, Komet und Helden is the distributer of the menswear label Deus Ex Machina in Germany and Austria. “The relaxed coolness of the collection appeals to men of all ages,” says Henrik Soller, the CEO of Komet und Helden. With retail prices between 39 and 99 Euros, the sportswear range is positioned in the commercial premium segment. AG Jeans is known for producing everything - even zippers and buttons - in-house. What merely applied to jeans in the past is now also true for complementing tops. The entire production process, from jersey material to the manufacturing itself, takes place in the brand’s plant in Mexico. “The t-shirts and sweats impress with the look and feel of vintage pieces, but are absolutely modern in terms of quality,” Soller explains. Following a successful test phase in AG Jeans stores, the collection is now also available to the wholesale sector. Yet another important denim brand, which was added to the agency’s portfolio for the Austrian market on the 1st of June, is 7 for all Mankind. Save the Duck has meanwhile entered a new partnership with the Surfrider Foundation Europe. The result is a capsule collection titled Save the Ocean. It consists of outerwear made of recycled polyester obtained from plastic bottles and fishing nets. The jackets featuring a blue Save the Duck logo are yet another step towards sustainability for the brand. Labels: 7 for all Mankind , AG Jeans, B.D.Baggies, Baracuta, Barena, Blauer USA, Bowery NYC, Deus Ex Machina, DIEMME, Hartford, ottod’Ame, Paltò, Save the Duck, The.Nim, White Sand Komet und Helden, Munich and Düsseldorf/Germany, muenchen@kometundhelden.de, www.kometundhelden.de
D-tails Five Times More Diversity
The Munich-based agency of Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz has added no less than five new collections to its portfolio for the spring/summer 2019 season. They are a breath of fresh air and offer loads of variety. Gazzarrini, an Italian menswear collection in the mid-price segment, not only offers two main collections, but also flash programmes and special season-end productions with higher mark-ups. Beyond the mere distribution of Gazzarrini, the agency plans to open two stores in Germany next year. Another newcomer is Peninsula, a swimwear collection that relies on patterns and colours to convey the Dolce Vita lifestyle of the Italian Riviera. Even IF is an unusual womenswear collection that specialises in sporty interpretations of unconventional cuts. It plays with volume and avant-garde influences. NV-3 also focuses on elegantly geared streetwear. The Italian label offers a very casual trouser collection that relies on flexibility and re-order options with small special lines and a stock programme. Customers who visit the D-tails showroom can now expect a feast for the senses. Walde 1777, a brand specialising in luxury soaps, is the first Beauty & Wellness label to move in. The manufactory, which always prioritises tradition and quality, has been producing soap products based on old and new recipes since 1777. Labels: Add, Bruno Parise, Even IF, Gazzarrini, Ibrigu, Il Bisonte, NV-3, Peninsula, Seboy’s, Walde 1777 D-tails, Munich/Germany, info@d-tails.de, www.d-tails.de
The Even IF collection is manufactured exclusively in Italy. It interprets Asian dressmaking art with avantgarde stylistic elements.
Me and my Paul&Shark.
030 Right Now Agencies
CP Fashion All About Jeans
Silver Jeans from Canada is a core collection of CP Fashion; the brand focuses on the contemporary market and has revised their entire labelling. Unusual details, subdued washes, and an outstanding fit featuring slim and straight cuts with different leg lengths define the brand’s style. “Silver Jeans is particularly successful in the growing plus size market,” says Reinhart Oberstein. “The most important models are also available in German sizes 42 to 54.” Last season’s new addition is Jim X Judy, denim-wear for men and women from Stockholm. The label uses high-quality denim from the best Indigo weavers in Europe in order to stay as close to the market as possible. The price range is another of the brand’s strong suits. The retail price of the core collection lies between 89.90 and 129 Euros. The premium collection costs between 139 and 169 Euros. Invita is a belt collection created by a small Italian family business. “The perfect accessory to our jeans,” says Oberstein. “As can be expected from Italian products, they are fashionable and hand-crafted skilfully. Moreover, the great flexibility allows us to cater to the market quickly and reliably.” Labels: Articles of Society, Greywire, Invita, Jim X Judy, Robins Jeans, Silver Jeans, Ultra Tee CP Fashion, Bad Säckingen, Düsseldorf, and Munich/Germany, info@cpfashion.de, www.cpfashion.de
Axel Arigato, a footwear brand specialising in couture sneakers at reasonable prices, is a new addition to the Ben And portfolio.
Silver Jeans offer a perfect fit, even in the plus size collection.
Agentur Ventrella Artful Embroidery
In cooperation with a supplier, the team headed by Gaby and Michele Ventrella has launched a new project. Under the beautiful title Le Petite Broderie, they have created a small line with elaborate, ethnic embroidery from the Ukraine. The range consists of a tunic, a tunic blouse, a short and floor-length dress, a pair of trousers, and a skirt in five colour variants. Le Petite Broderie affords its customers an opportunity to choose from different embroideries, thus customising their selection. At a mark-up of 2.7, purchase prices range from 160 to 190 Euros. “Le Petite Broderie complements our portfolio of specialists for every product group ideally,” says Gaby Ventrella. The leather accessories of Nove will also offer a small range of embroidered items. The accessories 813 has decided to transfer its prints for silk scarves and shawls onto a small ready-towear programme, thus allowing customers to use individual prints on coats, trousers, and dresses. This small collection is available in silk and cotton. Labels: 813, 820, Avant Toi, Bazar De Luxe, Caliban, Gold Hawk, Giovi, Guglielminotti, Leather Crown, Le Petite Broderie, Le Sarte Pettegole, Maurizio Massimino, NDV, Nine in the Morning, Nove, Tagliatore, Tintoria Mattei Agentur Ventrella, Munich and Düsseldorf/Germany, mode@agentur-ventrella.de, www.agentur-ventrella.de Agentur Ventrella’s Le Petite Broderie offers artful ethnic embroidery on tunics, blouses, and dresses.
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Ben And Bull’s Eye
Axel Arigato, the new footwear label in the portfolio of sales agency Ben And, was launched in 2014 by Max Svardh and Albin Johansson in order to plug a gap in the market: couture-style sneakers at an affordable price. They hit the proverbial Bull’s Eye! A so-called ‘Drop of the Week’ provides retailers with weekly updates, thus ensuring a fresh style. The brand, which manufactures in Portugal, excels in quality and craftsmanship and is available at the likes of Le Bon Marché, Harvey Nichols, and Selfridges. At a mark-up of 2.6, retail prices range from 180 to 280 Euros. NA-KD has its roots in the online segment. Today, it offers stationary retailers four wholesale collections with twelve pre-order programmes per year. “In addition, we are promoting NA-KD with blogger events at selected retailers,” Ben Botas explains. “It gives them an enormous reach.” The most recent pop-up events took place at Ludwig Beck, Breuninger Stuttgart, P&C, Leffers, and Konen. “Moose Knuckles is evolving too,” Botas adds. “In the first season, we focused on influential department stores such as Breuninger, Engelhorn, and Wormland. Recent additions to the customer list include high fashion stores Jades, Abseits, and Mientus.” Labels: 81Hours, Mason’s, Juicy Couture, NA-KD, Filippa K, Ben Sherman, Moose Knuckles, Stefanel, Odd Molly, iBlues, 2Shirtsago, Fortezza Ben And, Munich/Germany, agency@ben-and.com, www.ben-and.com
032 Right Now Agencies
The next gathering is scheduled for the 20th of July in the showroom of Room With A View.
Room with a view Content is King
The monthly MAG With A View newsletter is gaining in popularity. It offers much inspiration on topics such as food, music, work, digital, fashion, travel, and interior design. Only recently, Room With A View teamed up with Headless to offer a content service for newsletters. “Retailers often struggle with generating sufficient interesting content for their newsletters. Headless drafts exciting articles and offers them to the retailers. Naturally, they can also order complete newsletters, tailor-made so to speak,” says agency owner Christian Obojes. Following the great success of the Gathering premiere in January, the next event is scheduled for the 30th of July. Retailers from Austria and neighbouring Bavaria are cordially invited to attend exciting discussion panels with three to four participants each. Alexandra Weber is the most recent addition to the Room With A View team. She advises the customers in all digital matters. Weber provides retailers
with the best images and stories of the ordered brands for social media posts and newsletters. Effective immediately, Sophie Frohmader is responsible for the R13 brand in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. A new addition to the portfolio is Devotion Twins, a dress collection from Greece. Labels: Alto, Article of Society, Arkk Copenhagen, Better Rich, D.A.T.E Sneakers, Devotion Twins, Ecoalf, Hanky Panky, Happy Socks, Holubar, Lauren Moshi, Moon Boot, Moose Knuckles, Pomandere, R13, RRD, Stand Stockholm, Steamery, Steven K, Swell, The White Brand, Veja, Warm Me, White Sand, Xacus Room With A View, Salzburg/Austria, office@roomwithaview.at, www.roomwithaview.at
The Style Manifest Fast Rhythm
Steve Herrmann and Aphrodite Popis have established an agency specialising in a niche that is becoming increasingly relevant: fast fashion collections that produce small programmes at short intervals, mostly in Europe to facilitate a fast rhythm. “We are still a young agency and may therefore perceive the market differently than many old hands. Real-time collections are in line with the zeitgeist; they are what the market needs and consumers want. And we can see that our customers can generate excellent revenue once they have understood the principle. This is the future,” Herrmann explains. Some collections offer 20 to 30 new items per month and delivery takes no more than 5 to 15 days. The Style Manifest was initially launched as a fashion blog in 2012. American brand Anine Bing was the very first partner and is still an important portfolio brand to this day. After relocating to Berlin in 2016, the team opened the first Anine Bing store in Germany in September of the same year in Berlin-Mitte. Last year, the agency moved to its showroom in Berlin-Kreuzberg. Labels: Anine Bing, Bacon, Hironaé Paris, Magali Pascal, Matin, Ragdoll LA, Sincerely Jules The Style Manifest, Berlin/Germany, office@tsma-fashion.com, www.tsma-fashion.com 318 style in progress
American brand Anine Bing was the first partner of The Style Manifest and is still an important brand within the portfolio of the Berlin-based fashion agency.
Airfield is preparing for the future. The brand is a new addition to the Michaelis Fashion Agency portfolio.
Michaelis Fashion Agency New Location
A breath of fresh air at Airfield: the Austrian brand based in Seewalchen has prepared its design and marketing departments for the future. In terms of sales, it relies on the competence of agencies. Michaelis Fashion Agency is the brand’s new sales representative in the German states of Bavaria, Baden-Württemberg, Rhineland Palatinate, Southern Hesse, and Saarland. “Airfield has embodied perfect fits and excellent service for decades. It offers a sporty look with a touch of femininity,” says agency CEO René Michaelis. “The reinterpreted overall setup at Airfield has convinced us as an agency.” After spending 15 years in the Lodenfreypark, the agency has relocated to new premises. “The Fashion Mall in ‘Karl Weinmair Strasse’ combines a large number of collections that complement our brand portfolio,” Michaelis explains. On the ground floor of “Karl Weinmair Strasse 11”, he now showcases brands such as Marlino, RRD Roberto Ricci Designs, and the colourful, vivacious collection by Yippie Hippie on 280 square metres. Last but not least, he also displays Peuterey. “We have represented this outdoor premium brand for 15 years and have been involved in its success story almost from the offset. In terms of lightness, functionality, and material innovation, Peuterey is still among the market leaders.” Labels: Airfield, Marlino, Peuterey, RRD Roberto Ricci Designs, Yippie Hippie Michaelis Fashion Agency, Munich/ Germany, T 0049.171.4888924, mail@michaelis-fashion-agency.com, www.michaelis-fashion-agency.com
COLLEC TION SPRING 2019 CPD DÜSSELDORF 21/22/23 JULY 2018 DÜSSELDORF SHOWROOM RATHER STR. 49E 5TH FLOOR
GERMANY NORTH, AGENTUR STEFAN MAU, ST. ANNENUFER 3 BLOCK R3, D-20457 HAMBURG, PHONE +49 40 300 879 58, MOBIL +49 171 774 189 0, OFFICE@AGTMAU.DE GERMANY WEST, ROLAND GOMOLLA, RATHER STRASSE 49E, D-40476 DÜSSELDORF, PHONE +49 211 943 03 40, ROLANDGOMOLLA@BETTER-RICH.COM GERMANY MIDDLE, BIRGITTA ZÖLLER MODEAGENTUR, HEYNE FABRIK HAUS 12 / 1.STOCK, LILISTRASSE 83E, D-63067 OFFENBACH, PHONE +49 69 401 588 02, MOBIL +49 178 760 53 85, BIRGITTAZOELLER@BETTER-RICH.COM GERMANY SOUTH-WEST, AGENTUR GÖPPERT2, URS & SVENJA GÖPPERT, EURO FASHION CENTER / 3. ETAGE, MAHDENTALSTRASSE 100, D-71065 SINDELFINGEN, PHONE +49 7031 792 452, MOBIL +49 172 633 19 27, S.GOEPPERT@AGENTUR-ANSORGE.DE GERMANY SOUTH-WEST / GERMANY SOUTH, FASHIONWORKS, AGENTUR THOMAS VOGEL, FRANKFURTER RING 162, D-80807 MÜNCHEN, PHONE +49 89 350 649 48, MOBIL +49 179 460 352 4, THOMASVOGEL@BETTER-RICH.COM GERMANY EAST, PR FASHION GMBH & CO. KG, LARS RIEMENSCHNEIDER, WASSERSCHLOSS, SCHLESISCHE STRASSE 26, D 10997 BERLIN, PHONE +49 30 707 814 50, MOBIL +49 171 652 691 2, INFO@PR-FASHION.DE AUSTRIA, ROOM WITH A VIEW, CHRISTIAN OBOJES, STELZHAMERSTRASSE 5A, A-5020 SALZBURG, PHONE +43 662 875 651, OFFICE@ROOMWITHAVIEW.AT NETHERLANDS, BETTER RICH, THOMAS-ANDREAS DREXLER, RATHER STRASSE 49E, D-40476 DÜSSELDORF, PHONE +49 2871 995 789 22, ANDREASDREXLER@BETTER-RICH.COM SWITZERLAND, KAMM+KAMM COMPANY, PATRICK KAMM, SEESTRASSE 95, CH-8800 THALWIL, PHONE +41 44 771 75 65, INFO@KAMMCOMPANY.CH
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Heritage Agents
“We’re Breaking New Ground” The start of the new season not only brings a few changes for Malte Kötteritz and Michael Brockmann, but also new challenges. On the one hand, the team has agreed to represent the Italian collection Fortela starting with the spring/summer 2019 season. The brand is a true gem in terms of Italian menswear. The masculine, rough look and the elaborate designs were created by the skilful mind of Alessandro Squarzi. As a style icon, fashion expert, and designer he is the perfect role model for his own collection. It combines natural casualness with high-quality materials, thus providing a glimpse of Squarzi’s incredible know-how in terms of international fashion and trend history. To this end, the designer often delves into his own archive, picks up originals, and incorporates details without ever decorating a collection that is reduced to its essence. “Alessandro Squarzi has injected a new zeitgeist into Italian menswear with relaxed, masculine silhouettes and rough materials,” Kötteritz says.
Womenswear Debut for Heritage Agents
The second new addition brings change both in terms of content and location. Circolo 1901, a brand that hails from the South Italian city of Bari, is eager to present its menswear and womenswear collection side by side. The agency strengthened its team with Carmen Rabe as Head of Sales Women in order to serve the new womenswear customers. The highlight of the collection is its Easy Wear spirit, which is combined with an innovative idea: printed jerseys. The design team replicates the surfaces of classic outer fabrics, turns them into high-resolution print images, and then prints them onto jersey materials utilising a specially developed technique. “Circolo 1901 is the innovative alternative to classic sports jacket suppliers such as Boss. They also serve similar price ranges,” Kötteritz explains. At a mark-up of 2.7, retail prices range from 349 to 449 Euros for sports jackets and from 179 to 199 Euros for trousers. Circolo 1901 offers flexible re-order options via a stock programme. All items are produced in the brand’s own manufacturing facilities in Europe.
Specialisation
The agency remains true to its philosophy of offering a specialist for every product group. The uncontested shirt specialist is Bagutta. “We are convinced by the brand’s specialisation in the shirt genre and the enormous range of interpretations and themes that Bagutta takes up every season,” Brockmann adds. Some good news regarding accessories reached us shortly before the editorial deadline: the Italian bag manufacturer Campomaggi has added a men’s line to its highly successful women’s collection. The sales representative in Germany and Austria is,
of course, Heritage Agents. “The quality standards of this brand are simply incredible. Its products are a perfect match for us in terms of content,” Kötteritz says while explaining the reasons for this addition. Labels: Bagutta, Campomaggi, Circolo 1901, Fortela, Lardini, Matteucci, Mey Story Heritage Agents, Munich/Germany, office@heritage-agents.com, www.heritage-agents.com
The collection Fortela is Alessandro Squarzi (pictured) brainchild. The designer-turned agent is known for his distinctive style.
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034 Right Now Agencies
Marion Hoferer focuses on hot-sellers that are not available everywhere, such as Pride To Be.
Vestitus Concentrated Store Power
The most prominent newcomer at Vestitus is C.P. Company; the agency has been representing the brand in Germany and Austria since March. “The label is still managed by the family of Massimo Osti, one of the forefathers of sportswear,” Peter Haertel says. “The current Head of Marketing is his son Lorenzo Osti. The brand is currently experiencing a noticeable upswing.” Jacob Cohën has opened its first mono-brand store on Milan’s “Via della Spiga”. The label impresses with Japanese Kurabo denim in innovative washes and with its typical detailed design. In addition, it offers a large selection of colours and materials in the chino and non-denim range. Another core brand is Herno, which is also opening a mono-brand store in Milan in June. The name Fedeli stands for polo shirts and shirts made of Egyptian cotton in sorbet and pastel colours, which are supplemented with sustainably produced eco-cashmere knitwear. Antonelli is particularly feminine this season with a plethora of dresses made of organza and chiffon with floral prints. Delicate blouses made of technical, washable silk reflect the entry-level price range of the brand, which now also focuses on its own retail presence and plans to open a store in Milan in July. Labels: Antonelli, C.P. Company, Fedeli, Finamore, Herno, Jacob Cohën, L.B.M., Santoni, Tortona 21 Vestitus GmbH, Düsseldorf/Germany, service@vestitus.eu, www.vestitus.eu
Modeist “We Offer Offline Labels”
The C.P. Company advertising campaign for Düsseldorf can be adapted for other German cities.
Marion Hoferer’s last order season confirmed that she is heading in the right direction. “Our strategy to focus on price-aggressive labels that are not available in every store - and barely available online - vindicates us time and time again. We reduce pressure by ensuring that our products and prices serve a very large niche. Simply put: that’s what retailers need. Our customers earn good money with our labels. It works and I’m really proud,” Hoferer says. From a strategic point of view, this means that the agency had to sever ties with a few smaller labels to add more depth to others. Pride To Be, for instance, has decided to expand
Room Nine Agency Full Steam Ahead
Henri Lloyd, a tradition-steeped sailing brand from Manchester, is re-issuing its jackets from the 1970s.
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its fake fur collection by two thirds from 20 to 60 pieces. The focus is on transitional jackets featuring new qualities of fake fur, fake down, and nylon that are very thin and light. The blouse collection by Silk Sister has decided to add no less than four new qualities next season - for the entire size range from XS to 3XL. “It requires courage to produce sizes up to 3XL, but we are encouraging our labels in this respect, especially as we can see that retailers are selling such products,” Hoferer adds while explaining yet another strategic decision. She is looking forward to working with Roos+Roos, a new addition to the agency portfolio. The driving force behind the newcomer is a Cologne-based designer who manufactures limited edition bag lines made of salmon skins in Germany. As of the 1st of June, Modeist occupies new premises (the address remains the same) managed by Hoferer’s son Timothy Hoferer. Labels: B.Belt, Blaumax, Bodylanguage Sportswear, Dolores, I Peace, Jakke, Knit Knit, Pride To Be, Sassi Cara, Silk Sisters, Sold Out Modeist GmbH, Munich and Düsseldorf/Germany, info@b-kleidung.com, www.modeist.com
Henri Lloyd is one of the newcomers at Room Nine Agency. “This traditional sailing brand from Manchester was among the first to introduce watertight jackets with welded seams,” says Torsten Müller. “The brand pays homage to its tradition by re-issuing the jackets from the 1970s as highend sportswear.” Refrique of Portugal initially specialised in jackets for workers in cold storage facilities who also needed something to wear outside during hot summers. Today, the brand offers a jacket and sportswear collection. Müller represents Refrique in Germany and Austria. For the coming year, Orlebar Brown has agreed on a collaboration with Formula 1 pilot Daniel Riccardo, as well as on the launch of a special James Bond collection. Tretorn is to re-issue its tennis shoe original, which was worn by greats such as Björn Borg and Martina Navratilova, at retail prices between 99 and 129 Euros. Watson Cashmere, the menswear line of Gorg&us Cashmere, is made of yarns sourced exclusively in Nepal. “The look is classy and fashionable, with embroidered slogans such as ‘Hard Working Man’ or ‘Apres Ski’,” Müller explains. He is the distributer of the line in Germany. Last but not least, Harmont & Blaine is synonymous with classic menswear from Naples, easily recognisable by the dachshund logo on its shirts. Labels: Bomboogie, Ero Coats, Flip Flop, Harmont & Blaine, Henri Lloyd, Orlebar Brown, Refrigue, Tretorn, Watson Cashmere Room Nine Fashion Agency, Düsseldorf/Germany, torsten.mueller@roomnineagency.de, www.roomnineagency.de
Johnny Talbot & Adrian Runhof
Meike Lohmann
Fashion designers / Talbot Runhof
Visual artist / Kauft mehr Kunst
Dirk Hoberg
Markus Meindl
Entrepreneur / Meindl Fashion
Two-star chef / Ophelia restaurant Constance
Lay your trust in the world‘s finest white T-shirt. Find out more online or shop at Andreas Murkudis/Berlin, Braun/Hamburg, Engelhorn/Mannheim, Lodenfrey/München, Dantendorfer/Salzburg, Helmut Eder/Kitzbühel, Phänomen/Luzern, Oger/Amsterdam, Rose & Born/Stockholm, Man on the Boon/Seoul, Joyce/Hong Kong, United Arrows/Tokyo etc. www.meystory.com
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Rolf Griesinger Internationale Mode Showroom Move
The two newcomers Aybi (left) and Frenken bolster the womenswear portfolio of Select Studio.
Rolf Griesinger’s fashion agency has relocated to the Fashion Mall Bronce in Schwabing, thus moving into an environment that harbours many other premium fashion brands. Moreover, the owner has adjusted the brand portfolio: “Our two shooting stars are Hana San and Lu Ren. We are happy to report that these collections are very successful in Germany.” The Hana San blouse collection, created by French designer Carine Melkonian, embodies simple modernity. Melkonian combines her passion for Japanese culture with a reduced look and focuses on essentials. Inspired by the black-and-white aesthetic of fashion photographers like Peter Lindbergh, she specialises in wonderfully detailed cotton blouses for strong, confident women. The Lu Ren cashmere line impresses with clean looks and high-quality workmanship. Brown Allan of New York also uses finest materials for its more sporty collection. The portfolio is complemented by dresses by Animapop and beautiful scarves by Storiatipic of Paris. Jackets by IQ+ Berlin have been an integral part of the portfolio for many years. Labels: Animapop, Brown Allan, IQ+ Berlin, Hana San, Lu Ren, Storiatipic Rolf Griesinger Internationale Mode GmbH, Munich/Germany, office@griesinger-mode.de, www.griesinger-mode.de
Select Studio Additions to the Premium Segment
If you ask Select Studio’s Bernard Waage what the coming season has in store for him, he answers with two names: Aybi and Frenken. With these two new collections, the agency intends to focus on boutiques in the German-speaking markets and - in particular - on the premium segment. The Select Studio team starts its efforts as of the spring/summer 2019 season. The driving force behind Munich-based womenswear label Aybi is a well-known expert in the fashion industry. After all, Aysen Bitzer was the founder of 0039Italy. Her new collection, which is manufactured in Germany, focuses on colourful blouses and dresses in high-quality material combinations of silk, cotton, and cashmere. Even though Aybi has only been on the market for roughly a year, it has already established itself in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. The brand has now teamed up with Select Studio to take the next step. The second addition is Frenken, a sophisticated womenswear collection designed in The Netherlands by Erik Frenken. The designer, who was the founder of Avelon, questions and reinterprets existing fashion norms in a very artistic and experimental manner. He turns a coat into a skirt or turns a lining outwards. The retail prices for the collection, which is manufactured exclusively in Europe, range from 200 to 1,200 Euros. Labels: Aybi, By Malene Birger, Frenken, Garment Project, Gestuz, Hudson, J. Lindeberg, Oscar Jacobson, Scandinavian Edition, Zoe Karssen Select Studio, Munich and Düsseldorf/ Germany, info@select-studio.com, www.select-studio.com
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Simple and beautiful: Hana San of France is a welcome addition to the agency’s brand portfolio.
Outerwear by Duno is a shooting star at Adventure Fashion Agency. The agency managed to increase the number of retail customers from 20 to 110.
Adventure Fashion Agency Zero Returns
This is what the market has been waiting for: Duno, an outerwear manufacturer, combines innovation and functionality at a reasonable price. From the outset, the concept convinced customers such as Schnitzler,
KaDeWe, Hirmer, Engelhorn, and Strolz. “Duno is fantastic. We had zero returns in the last autumn/winter season,” Marc Kofler of Adventure Fashion Agency gushes. The agency represents the Italian brand from Vinci in Germany and Austria. The summer collection also convinces with a style that is withdrawn, yet fashionable. At a mark-up of 2.8, purchase prices range from 75 to 170 Euros. A new addition to the agency’s portfolio is Cockaigne, a brand adorned with embroidery and sequins. The label specialises in tees, sweats, and sweatpants for women at retail prices between 59 and 149 Euros. The mark-up stands at 3.0. Cockaigne launches four collections per year. Tonno e Panna is part of the Fashion Pure stable. It offers a programme of high-quality women’s blouses characterised by expressive prints and low-maintenance qualities. At a 3.0 mark-up, retail prices range from 89 to 149 Euros. Last but not least, Adventure Fashion Agency has added DL1961, a sustainable denim brand, to its portfolio. The label’s jeans promise 360° movement. “The driving force behind the collection, which appeals to women in particular, are the weavers of famous denim brands from LA,” Kofler explains. “In addition, a new importer ensures reliable service.” Labels: 120%, Berna, Cockaigne, DESA1972, DL1961, Duno, Iheart, Jenny Packham, Matchless, Mucho Gusto, Peuterey, Tonno & Panna, Trvl Drss, Via Masini 80, Zenggi Adventure GmbH, Düsseldorf/Germany, T 0049.211.431049, info@adventure-gmbh.de, www.adventure-gmbh.de
PROUDLY PEOPLE Circolo 1901 supports real people.
*No models were harmed in the making of this ADV
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Moormann & Co. Summer! Colour! Product! And Style!
The label Sunny is new to the Moormann & Co. agency, featuring handcrafted raffia and rattan bags, baskets, and hats at purchase prices ranging from 25 to 80 Euros. Valerie Khalfon’s collection puts a modern spin on lace in various textures and colours. This summer also brings matching accessories, making every day a beach day. “Clients such as Breuninger, Reyer, and Lodenfrey are very satisfied with the collection,” says Klara Moormann. The women’s leather collection Stouls remains powerful, bursting with style and colour. Orciani pairs nonchalance and elegance, as seen in the must-have Sveva bag, which comes in new textures and colours. Customers such as Lodenfrey in Munich, as well as the KaDeWe, will feature Orciani as early as this coming winter. “Moreover, our charity label Myeisha is very close to my heart,” says Klara Moormann. “Designer Sandra Baumeister has made a dream come true by moving her family to Namibia in order to help local communities and to design the bags that are handmade in the country. The proceeds go to charity, currently the construction of an orphanage.” Finally the newest addition in the men’s department is Maurizio Baldassari. “The philosophy is ‘A Brand To Discover’,” says Timo Moormann. Waiting to be discovered are modern basics with a fresh look, knitting patterns and prints made in Italy. Labels: Gimo’s Leder, Gimo’s Sportswear, Kathleen Madden, Maurizio Baldassari, Maison Lener, Myeisha, Orciani, Stephan Boya, Stouls, Sunny, Unfleur, Valerie Khalfon, Zanieri Cashmere Moormann & Co., Düsseldorf/Germany, k.moormann@moormann-co.com, www.moormann-co.com Stouls has dedicated itself to colourful leather: cool, elegant, and innovative.
Proper British: the John Richmond collection is part of the Aco Modeagentur Germany portfolio.
MAB Fashion “Communication Remains Crucial”
MAB Fashion has recently been appointed as the distributer of Splendid in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. The label will be showcased in the agency’s Düsseldorf-based showroom from the 21st of July onwards. In addition to its well-known basics, the brand now also offers two complete collections per year. Each collection consists of three delivery groups. There are also complementary capsule collections that either focus on specific theme worlds or are the result of cooperations with designers, labels, and artists. Splendid’s extensive NOS programme is titled “The Ultimate Tee”. At a mark-up of 2.7, retail prices for sweaters range from 89 to 139 Euros. One of the agency’s classics is sneakers brand National Standard. In 2013, the label added a capsule collection for women to its range for men. Today, National Standard offers a completely independent women’s collection that is - as always - pure and innovative. Retail prices range from 180 to 269 Euros. “Communication remains crucial for us,” says Regis Benabou. “In order to increase media exposure of our brands, we now cooperate with Hamburg-based Vertikom, one of the most renowned communication agencies in the German-speaking market. We expect a lot from that.” Labels: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Ba&sh, Designers Remix, Jerome Dreyfuss, Jimmy Choo Textile Accessoires, Mackage, Mes Demoiselles, National Standard, Paul & Joe, Paul & Joe Sister, Splendid, Rachel Zoe Collection, The Kooples, The Kooples Sport MAB Fashion/Modeagentur Benabou, Düsseldorf/Germany, info@mab-fashion.com, www.mab-fashion.com Splendid is a new addition to the MAB Fashion portfolio: it has added two complete collections to its popular range of basics.
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Aco Modeagentur Germany Two Become One
Focussing on the essentials and service are the top priorities of Aco Modeagentur Germany. The Contemporary segment is among the most important within its portfolio. It features brands such as Pinko, Quantum Courage, Twinset, My Twin, and Seventy. In terms of the Advanced Contemporary segment, the agency not only focuses on well-known names such as Elisabetta Franchi and Versace Collection, but also on the likes of English designer John Richmond, whose collection has returned with a full range after a short seasonal break. “Parosh of Milan is particularly successful in terms of sales,” says Michael Schulz, the CEO of Aco Modeagentur Germany. “In addition, Plein Sud has been completely realigned for this season. Two become one: both Plein Sud and Plein Sud Jeans are henceforth known as Plein Sud only.” The portfolio is complemented by the accessories lines by Pinko and Twinset, as well as by the independent bag specialists Gianni Chiarini and Gum by Gianni Chiarini. While Aco Germany acts as a sales agency, the consulting firm The Farm continues to promote the development of new retail concepts. Labels: 1970, Alex Munroe, Gianni Chiarini, Gum by Gianni Chiarini, Ebony & Ivory, Elisabetta Franchi, John Richmond, Just Cavalli, My Twin, Parosh, Plein Sud, Pinko, Sadey, Seventy, Twinset Milano, Versace Collection Aco Modeagentur Germany, Düsseldorf/Germany, kontakt@ acomode.de, www.acomode.de The Farm, Düsseldorf/Germany, grow@thefarmbyaco.de, www.thefarmbyaco.de
BESTCOMPANY1982.IT _ FALIS2014 +39 0185 1759437 _ info@falis2014.com OLMESCARRETTISTUDIO
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Labo.Art photographed by Koto Bolofo: the perfect presentation of an artistic collection.
Agentur Mindner Cuddly Additions
Sandra Mindner, who has established her showroom near the Nymphenburg Palace, loves unearthing small specialists. A perfect example for Mindner’s skill is 8 Eden Avenue, a label created by Munich-based designer Jessica Breidt. This season, it will showcase its collection in the exclusive Berlin Salon for the first time. Breidt’s luxurious cashmere scarves are woven and embroidered by a cooperative in the Himalayas of northern India. The soft material is also a speciality of Bloom by Harald Heldmann from Hamburg. Mindner added this label to her portfolio this season. Another highlight is the Constanza T. collection, which is manufactured in northern Italy on hand knitting machines. “That’s true luxury,” she gushes while highlighting the quality of the handcrafted cashmere line. Sevendaywonder, another Italian brand, offers fashionable blouses and tops in cool designs. Labels such as Fabienne Chapot are particularly strong in terms of revenue. In April, Mindner staged a well-attended popup concept at Ludwig Beck with this particular collection. The agency also promotes beautiful smaller items such as accessories and jewellery. A trip to northern Munich is always worth its while. Labels: 8 Eden Avenue, Bloom, Canadian, Constanza T., C.P.-29, Fabienne Chapot, Graumann, Ivylee Copenhagen, La Feé Marabouteé, Lazar Studio, LeJu, Pernille Corydon, Pieszak, SevenDayWonder, Under Protection Modeagentur Mindner, Munich/ Germany, buero@modeagentur-mindner.com, www.modeagentur-mindner.com
A combination of luxury and social commitment: the cashmere label 8 Eden Avenue graces the Berlin Salon for the first time.
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Agentur Toepfer Reduced to the Essence
Labo.Art is one of the new additions to the portfolio of Agentur Toepfer; the agency now represents the label in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. True to its name, Labo.Art pursues a reduced approach that feels truly artistic. The driving force behind the label is Ludovica Diligu, an Italian designer who has set up her studio in Berlin and has been delighting customers from near and far with her Labo. Art Store in Berlin’s Bikini for years. So far, Labo.Art has primarily served retailers in Italy, the US, and Asia, but now it’s time to focus on the German-speaking market. Another newcomer is Salvatore Santoro, an Italian leather collection for women and men. Its style is cool and clean to highlight the dyed and over-dyed leather. Just in time for its tenth anniversary, the 8PM label is launching a ten-piece capsule collection which features a collection highlight from every year. Roqa, a luxury streetwear collection by Mirela Stanoiu, has enjoyed success with its womenswear and is now ready to cater for men too. “Roqa is enormously successful, even though the first third of the year was difficult due to the weather,” says Senior Partner Christina Jahn. Another advantage of the label is its mark-up between 2.8 and 3.0. Labels: 8PM, An(+)other, Asciari, Erika Cavallini, Faliero Sarti, F Cashmere, GMS-75, Labo.art, Lodenthal, Lost in Me, Myths, Research History, Roqa, Salvatore Santoro, Semi Couture, Sgamo, Siyu, Smarteez Agentur Toepfer GmbH & Co. KG, Düsseldorf/Germany, office@agentur-toepfer.com, www.agentur-toepfer.com
Agentur Heininger The Luxury Niche
When Gabi Heininger decided to start her own showroom approximately 10 years ago, she made the decision in the knowledge that customers looking for fashion are different to customers interested in shoes and accessories. They have different order rhythms and habits. “Orders for shoes and accessories are, unlike those for fashion collections, placed at trade shows. Customers come to order, so I have to be there with my team,” the agency owner says. This summer, Heininger will bring Zespà Aix-en Provence to the Premium in Berlin for the first time. By specialising in exquisite, mostly hand-crafted products from family businesses and tradition-steeped companies, she has assembled a brand portfolio that focuses on continuity and operates in an exclusive niche that highlights individual products. Heininger is currently working on a digital showroom to improve service levels. She’s also developing her own shoe line: “We will debut the range at the Gallery. It’s a small selection of ballerinas and other low-foot models. The aim is to be less dependent on suppliers in terms of topics and to complement our offer,” Heininger explains. Labels: Coral Blue, D.A.T.E., Gaimo Espadrilles, Inuikii, Mèlinè, Numero 10 Bags, Officine Creative, Zespà Aix-en Provence Showroom Gabi Heininger, Munich/Germany, office@agenturheininger.de, www.agenturheininger.de
With Zespà Aix-en Provence, a shoe and accessories collection, Gabi Heininger has added yet another perfect niche supplier to her brand portfolio.
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Agentur Schwarte In Balance
Parajumpers zählt zu den stärksten Kollektionen der Agentur Schwarte, die die Marke in ganz Deutschland vertreibt.
Parajumpers is among the strongest performers in Agentur Schwarte’s portfolio. The agency represents the label throughout Germany.
The menswear by Daniele Fiesoli balances fashion innovation with luxurious carry-overs while committing in full to the “Made in Italy” philosophy. The womenswear by Italian knitwear specialist Collezione 01 is an independent capsule collection defined by subtle sexiness. Fil Noir’s women’s collection, on the other hand, is more playful and feminine, while the shirts for men impress with casualness, as well as washed jersey and linen qualities. The entry and medium price range in retail remain below 100 Euros. AT.P.CO offers a pre-collection with a December delivery date; it focuses on garment-dyed chinos and denims. At a mark-up of 3.0, retail prices range from 119 to 159 Euros. Divisibile impresses with new outer fabrics made of recycled PET bottles. The technical down jackets boast a special feature: each model is not only completely reversible, but also divisible. “This means customers can acquire several styles in one jacket,” says Matthias Schwarte. Weber+Weber has created a flash collection dedicated to the topic of travel. It includes sports jackets and vests made of boiled wool, which are especially popular among retailers. Labels: Armani Exchange, Emporio Armani, AT.P.CO, Collezione 01, Daniele Fiesoli, Divisibile, Fil Noir, Hide&Jack, Jet Set, Parajumpers, People of Shibuya, Sundek, Weber+Weber Agentur Schwarte, Munich/Germany, office@agentur-schwarte.de, www.agentur-schwarte.de
Premium Brand Group A Firework of Colours
The Begg & Co manufactory has been producing scarves and plaids made of high-quality natural materials for no less than 152 years. “The great development on an international level in recent years shows monochrome classics and checks, as well as modern designs and exclusive collaborations with renowned artists,” says Erika Palese, whose agency Premium Brand Group is the brand’s distributer. For spring/summer 2019, the artist John Booth has created a capsule collection defined by strong colours. Booth, who studied fashion print design at Central Saint Martin’s College, has worked for the likes of Fendi and Lou Dalton. “The incredible colour variety with qualities ranging from feather-light to heavy is what distinguishes Begg,” Palese adds. “An extensive stock programme allows for short-term orders.” Derek Rose has developed a high-quality resort collection with special fits. It consists of linen Bermuda shorts and pants, linen shirts, t-shirts, polo shirts, and swim shorts. “The third collection is even more sophisticated and impresses with bold colours for summer 2019,” Palese says. The Bespoke Dudes stands for classic-cool sunglasses that suit both men and women alike. The shades are hand-crafted in a small Italian manufactory. Labels: Begg & Co, Derek Rose, Les Ottomans, Nobis, The Bespoke Dudes Eyewear Premium Brand Group, Munich/Germany, office@premiumbrandgroup.de, www.premiumbrandgroup.de Begg & Co teams up with artists for colourful capsule collections.
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Switzerland The WEARHOUSE phone: +41 44 912 12 00 wearhouse@wearhouse.ch wearhouse.ch
SYD • BALI • L A • MLN • TKO DEUSCUSTOMS.COM
Germany & Austria KOMET UND HELDEN phone: +49 89 97 05 280 info@kometundhelden.de kometundhelden.de
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Fashiontech, Berlin
Taking advantage of the opportunities of digitisation: Anita Tillmann, the CEO of Premium Group, is promoting a matter close to her heart with the Fashiontech conference.
“Digitisation is a Great Opportunity for Small Businesses”
With its Fashiontech format, which takes place during the Fashion Week in Berlin, the Premium Group has created a business platform that brings together international decision-makers from the fields of fashion, tech, marketing, retail, start-ups, politics, and media. 4,200 participants contributed to the event in January. Trade visitors of the fashion exhibitions Premium, Show&Order, Seek, and Bright can access the Fashiontech free of charge. Since last season, the Ministry of Economics is the patron of the kick-off event. In an interview with style in progress, Anita Tillmann talks about why Germany is currently not at the forefront of digitisation and what it takes to promote digital development at all corporate levels. Interview: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Premium Group What must small and medium-sized companies from the textile industry both retailers and brands - do to assert themselves alongside online giants and top players in the short, medium, and long term? The good and bad news is that there is no single salutary solution for all market participants. Such a solution never existed in the past either. Moreover, the challenges and opportunities in the textile industry are quite different to those in the clothing industry. We are all still at the beginning of digitisation and it’s an ongoing and rapidly evolving process. Generally speaking, it is crucial to monitor the new tools of digitisation actively and to experiment with them in order to understand their benefits and, if necessary, to integrate them wholly or partly in the respective businesses. This means, above all, that one shouldn’t be passive. It’s important to deal with topics such as online marketing and e-commerce on the one hand, as well as with customer journeys and experiences on the other. One needs to scrutinise and critically question everything. The aim is to find out what has proven itself and can be further developed in the future, or where there is need for optimisation and action. In my opinion, every store can expand and exploit the strengths of direct customer contact and the associated emotions on location. To this end, one needs to, however, understand the strengths and weaknesses, as well as the advantages and disadvantages of e-commerce. Which tools can one apply and implement? The same applies to brands, because there is much untapped potential - not only in terms of digital marketing, but also in terms of logistics and partnerships. How should sustainable governmental development programmes be structured and what framework conditions need to be created to ensure that Germany can catch up in terms of digitisation? The patronage of the Ministry of Economics was a good start. We are very pleased about the attentive and sincere way political circles perceive the topic. We are in close contact with the Fashion Council Germany. We have established a dialogue and are currently working very hard on everything else. What do politicians need to do to ensure equal opportunities and fair competition, especially for the countless small businesses?
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There’s definitely still a lot to do, but the government will not be able to rescue companies that refuse to address the topic and aren’t active on their own accord. I believe that digitisation is a great opportunity for small businesses, because they can react much faster and with more agility than ponderous conglomerates. When it comes to IT technology in particular - and in both its hardware and software sectors - Germans still peddle the cliché that this field is dominated by men. How are key positions filled in practice and what distinguishes the Fashiontech segment from the classic IT sector? Let’s boil it down: IT is classic programming. It seems men find this easier than women, but that is an educational issue. Both IT and programming need to be made an integral part of every school curriculum. This is enormously important! Our school system is completely outdated. I have been involved in the female empowerment movement for a long time. This also involves the topic of key positions for women at different levels. I coach, network, speak at conferences, and try to encourage women to recognise and seize opportunities when they arise. This is extremely exciting. In the course of digitisation, many new jobs and opportunities have been created. As I said, we are still at the beginning… What added value can buyers and brands expect when visiting the Fashiontech? Which programme items would you recommend? The Fashiontech Berlin is Europe’s leading conference on digital transformation in our industry and addresses the entire ecosystem. Berlin is Europe’s leading digital hub. Over the past few years, more than 100,000 permanent jobs have been created here in the start-up sector alone. In line with the motto “Listen! Learn! Experience!”, the conference explores the latest trends in digitisation, presents success stories, and introduces newcomers. Experts give concrete recommendations for action, which are then explored in-depth in workshops or master classes. There is a small exhibition area to make the topic more tangible. It’s all about gathering information, making new contacts, expanding your own network, and actively participating in digitisation. Kick-Off Event: 2nd of July 2018, Conference: 4th of July 2018, www.fashiontech.berlin
Floris van Bommel 9th generation shoemaker since 1734
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Scandinavian manifesto: the Pitti presented 15 designers from Denmark, Sweden, and Norway in cooperation with the Copenhagen trade show Revolver.
Pitti Immagine Uomo Reorganisation of Menswear
The 94th edition of the Pitti Uomo rearranged the areas dedicated to the menswear segments that are currently experiencing more development than others. These include Lifestyle and Outdoor, Athleisure, and Avant-Garde, as well as newcomers from northern Europe. The Italian Ministry of Economic Development supported the Pitti by contributing to a special programme featuring a “Made in Italy” campaign. The event also presented special projects such as the exhibition “Fanatic Feelings - Fashion Plays Football”. To mark the 70th anniversary of Herno, Claudio Marenzi took guests into the past, present, and future of the brand. Other highlights included the fashion shows of MCM and Shinpei Yamagishi’s new label Bed J.W. Ford, as well as a Birkenstock showcase event. In addition, Japanese designer Fumito Ganryu, who worked for Comme des Garcons until recently, introduced his own label to the public. This season’s special guest country was Georgia. In cooperation with the foundation Pitti Immagine Discovery, the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tbilisi, and the Georgian Ministry of Economic Development, the most important fashion designers of the country were presented. This season’s guest designer was London-based Craig Green. As previously reported, Paul Surridge, who showcased his first menswear collection for Roberto Cavalli, was welcomed as a special guest. www.pittimmagine.com
A strong double act for the order season: the Gallery and Gallery Shoes in Düsseldorf.
Gallery/Gallery Shoes Concentrated Agency Power
Four order dates for fashion, accessories, and shoes concentrate strategic forces on the shores of the Rhine. The Gallery and Gallery Shoes take place four times a year in the “Böhler” industrial area. In July, the Gallery will once again focus on agencies. The “Premium Zone” concept pools them in the so-called “Kaltstahlhalle”. When the order phase hots up, the hall will remain open two days longer than the regular runtime of the event. In total, it will be open for five days from Friday to Tuesday. A separate entry and catering area underlines this development. “The size and ambience of ‘Kaltstahlhalle’ is perfect for this newly created area. From the next event onwards, all retail agencies that have attended the Gallery in the past will showcase their portfolios from Friday to Tuesday,” says Ulrike Kähler, the Managing Director of Igedo Company. The next Gallery Shoes event in September will be expanded by adding yet another hall. According to Kähler, the additional hall is the aforementioned “Kaltstahlhalle” with approx. 1,900 square metres of gross exhibition space. The aim is to lure more exhibitors to Düsseldorf. Services such as a central entrance tent and an outdoor zone with event and catering facilities are likely to make the next trade show in September even more enjoyable for buyers. Gallery: 21st to 23rd of July 2018; Showroom Concept: 20th to 24th of July 2018, Gallery Shoes: 2nd to 4th of September 2018, www.the-gallery-duesseldorf.com 318 style in progress
Munich Fabric Start & Munich Apparel Source Holistic Profile
The autumn/winter 2019/20 season starts with the View Premium Selection trade show in July 2018. It showcases more than 300 international collections, thus highlighting developments in terms of new materials and colours. “In the context of the Munich Fabric Start, which takes place in September and displays more than 1,800 collections by more than 1,000 suppliers, our holistic exhibition profile is the right choice. We react to current market developments, support trend-setting processes within the industry segment, and provide sustainable innovations and impulses,” says Wolfgang Klinder, the MD of Munich Fabric Start. The strong trend towards the integration of technology and the development of individual product segments are among the priority competences of the trade show, which is an exclusive, expert-developed event that provides impulses, highlights solutions, and offers an opportunity for direct exchange. The all-day conference titled “patterns X.0”, for example, focuses on the fashion industry in the era of digitisation. It also touches on topics such as trends of tomorrow, changing consumer behaviour, market development, and revolutions in product innovation. The Munich Fabric Start offers a wide range of information and leaves room for exciting discussions. A tightly timed array of top-class trend seminars, panel discussions, and workshops completes the offering. 4th to 6th of September 2018, Bluezone, 4th and 5th of September 2018, View Premium Selection, 17th and 18th of July 2018, www.munichfabricstart.com
The Munich Fabric Start focuses on interactive networking in order to create a strong community within the international textile and fashion industries.
Artist Anselm Reyle exhibits his works at the Premium in Berlin.
Premium, Seek, Show & Order, Bright Creativity and Art
Hall 2 at the Premium is a veritable playground for creative minds this summer: “Content, Commerce, and Community”. Art, food, magazines, and digital innovations are the stars. An installation by renowned artist Anselm Reyle of the König Galerie Berlin is among the highlights of the contemporary art presentations. A number of cooperations, such as the one with Fashion Council Germany, are aimed at bringing more international top buyers to Berlin. La Martina is set to host a bike polo game. At the Young Talents Collaboration Space designers, musicians, and artists present products and projects that were developed in collaboration with brands from the Premium’s exhibitor portfolio. The Show & Order on the 5th floor of the “Kühlhaus” at “Station Berlin” features an Experience Area with 358 Studio Nail Bar, Shan Rahimkhan Styling, Rebirth Style, Holy Flowers, Sygnes, Savue Makeup, Binu Beauty, and an Influencer Area, among many other things. The trade show Bright at “Arena Kreuzberg”, just around the corner from the Seek, opens its doors to consumers this summer - at least to a certain extent. 3rd to 5th July 2018, www.premiumexhibitions.com
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Panorama It’s The Mix
With a multitude of innovations and a clear focus on the needs of the retail industry, the Panorama Berlin offers a swifter overview, more information, and more inspiration. Eleven halls with a total exhibition area of 45,000 square metres showcase a wide range of menswear and womenswear, as well as shoes, accessories, and lifestyle products. At the entrance, visitors can stroll through a compact area dedicated to the 20 most exciting specialists and newcomer brands. “The ‘Select’ area is a focus area in which we present exciting newcomers and product highlights every season. Here, the spotlight is on the product itself and key pieces of the collections. The uniform look of the individual, pre-built stands sharpens the focus on the essentials. It is particularly beneficial to smaller brands and product specialists,” Jörg Wichmann, the CEO of Panorama Berlin, explains. The expanded womenswear area, which now spreads out over more than 3,000 square metres, is all about women’s apparel and carefully selected plus size brands. “By re-organising the shoe and accessories areas, we finally have the space required to satisfy the huge demand and to showcase even more high-quality women’s fashion. ‘Belle’ is a unique area for self-confident women with high standards. It showcases a modern mix of outstanding collections and fine accessories,” Wichmann says. The new ‘Retail Solutions’ hall is dedicated to the questions of what drives the retail trade and what will be important for it in the future. It features service providers, retail solution providers, and retail design professionals, as well as gastronomic concepts that can be integrated into retail concepts. A business club, workshops, and presentation areas complete the event and invite retailers and brands to find individual solutions for their respective businesses. “We firmly believe that the World Wide Web is an opportunity for dedicated retailers, not a threat. It may seem hostile at first glance, but it offers brilliant solutions for the retail trade at second glance. Our aim is to create a platform for companies that offer relevant retail solutions - digital or otherwise - to connect with one of the world’s top-selling market segments: the fashion retail industry,” Wichmann adds.
The various lifestyle areas in the halls showcase a large selection of unusual non-textiles, including high-quality BBQ equipment, bicycles, headphones, stationery items, teas, fragrances, gift ideas, and other amusing gadgets. The new branch of the ‘Nova’ hall presents the sporty format ‘Nova Court’ for the very first time. Here, activewear and athleisure brands, as well as beach and swimwear labels, sneaker makers, and yoga, feelgood, and urban zen suppliers, show how classic sportswear translates into a diverse fashion and lifestyle context. Additional ‘Active Areas’ round off the experience for visitors with strong visual concepts. The Panorama Berlin has decided to publish a free trend guide for the first time. It contains all important topics and trends of the exhibitors for the spring/summer 2019 season. Brands that have decided to make their debut at the Panorama Berlin include Jane Lushka, Freds Bruder, Passigatti, NA-KD, Naf Naf, Jacqueline de Yong, Matinique, Zeze, Jessica Graaf, Lufian, Dr. Denim, Reell, Tigha, Ragwear, Saucony, Paez, and Flip Flop. 3rd to 5th of July 2018, www.panorama-berlin.com
The Panorama Berlin has opted for expanding its womenswear area. With concepts such as ‘Nova Court’ and ‘Retail Solutions’ it now also caters for completely new segments.
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THE VEST BRAND WWW.DORNSCHILD.COM
050 WHAT'S THE STORY IN WOMEN WE TRUST
Female Alliance An opinion piece by Martina Müllner-Seybold.
If one person benefits, it is others who suffer. #metoo, #TimeIsUp, and New Feminism all deserve praise as initiatives that attempt to return balance to an area of life that is characterised by great imbalance. Nevertheless, women in positions of responsibility are just the beginning. Their task is so much greater than merely clearing the 50 percent hurdle or redefining role models. Anyone who proclaims feminism today cannot do so without a broader context. How can one speak of empowerment in fashion while poorly paid female workers sew the t-shirts adorned with the feminist slogans that are currently so fashionable? How can one use the salary increase that is meant to guarantee equal pay to continue to consume as if it isn’t evident that our fast fashion madness is irreparably destroying our nature and climate? The awakening this industry needs is far more profound than the one demanded by most feminist theses. And that’s exactly why hope is female. Women are more empathetic, more prudent, and more sensitive. Women are masterful at keeping many balls in the air at the same time. Even though it is regrettable that we women are tasked with housework once more, the first house we need to put in order is our own. Given that women compare so obsessively, true solidarity is still far off. However, it is unlikely that any woman can conquer such a mountain of responsibility alone. 318 style in progress
Solidarity with men is just as crucial as solidarity among ourselves. But as long as consumption, children, and bodies are trimmed and staged to make others jealous, the task remains bloody difficult. Following female stars, starlets, and opinion makers on social media is a little like porn. Deep down inside one knows that “thigh gap” bikini photos, a daily changing designer handbag, and the healthy and incredibly groomed family world is about as close to reality as - well, you get the picture. But once you’ve zapped onto it, it would be incredibly conservative to blush and change the channel. So should we renounce it all? For heaven’s sake, no! Comparison is the fuel of this industry. Without a striking presentation and the subsequent “must (also) have” effect, our segment in particular would be ruined. That’s why we need a genuine alliance that runs deeper than the glossy surface. Only when Kim Kardashian and Alice Schwarzer can count on mutual tolerance, understanding, and solidarity, will we be where we belong. What can fashion contribute, you ask? Much more than merely making us look pretty.
antonellifirenze.com
052 WHAT'S THE STORY IN WOMEN WE TRUST
Dorothee Schumacher 318 style in progress
WHAT'S THE STORY 053 IN WOMEN WE TRUST
“Strong Women Inspire Me” Designer, entrepreneur, mother of four, and woman whisperer – what began with three t-shirts has since developed into a solid medium-sized company. Each collection is yet another sign of the maturity of Dorothee Schumacher, as well as of her empathy for and with women. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photo: Schumacher
You have achieved great things as a businesswoman. How did being a woman influence, shape, promote, or hinder this path?
It is a crucial part of my journey. I am convinced that the strength of a woman lies in her femininity - and this is reflected time and time again in my encounters with customers and women all over the world. Your company boasts a high percentage of female employees. You are known for trusting women and heaving them into leading positions. Is this a natural process or a deliberate choice?
It’s completely natural. What could be more beautiful than
women who reinforce each other mutually? I consider myself lucky to work in an environment with so many women on a daily basis. Each of them is writing her own story. Years of collaboration with certain women have enriched and shaped my understanding of women to this day.
Only very few of your competitors are as savvy as you when it comes to understanding how modern, successful women want to dress. Jil Sander used to say that she designs armour for women, you have a more sensitive, more playful, easier, and more natural design approach. What does today’s
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054 WHAT'S THE STORY IN WOMEN WE TRUST
fashion need to provide for women like you?
For me, it’s not merely about beautiful clothes, but beautiful women. It’s all about beauty that comes from within, strength that already exists, and real personalities - I want my fashion to reflect these aspects. A dress doesn’t make a woman radiant. She already radiates from within and her look affords her an opportunity to express who she is without words. In this sense, I perceive fashion as a wonderful way of self-expression - and that at first glance. You have always had very loyal retail customers and consumers. Over the last few months, however, I have heard more positive feedback than ever about your brand: “on point”, “absolutely accurate”, “beautiful”, “she has reinvented herself”, and “so contemporary”. Which adjustments did you make? Do you believe that you have outdone yourself?
A brand never stops evolving. The same applies to a woman and humans in general. Someone who is 23 years old is not the same person as she may be 30 years later. Brands evolve over time too. I believe that developments such as digitisation and social media have afforded me an opportunity to communicate more directly and personally with my clients. The immediate bond has become stronger, while the dialogue has become faster and more diverse. This is a big development and change is ever-present. At the same time, it is a wonderful feeling to see the loyalty and enthusiasm of our retail partners. They are keen to accompany us, grow with us, 318 style in progress
“For me, it’s not merely about beauti ful clothes, but beautiful women.” Dorothee Schumacher
and discover new things with us. The interplay of innovation and tradition is becoming more seamless, thus creating an exciting radiance. If one is successful as a woman, one’s private life becomes public quite automatically. You, for example, are a mother and you founded the business with your ex-husband. Hardly any report on male executives includes such details. Would you prefer that successful women no longer have to justify that they can handle their private life? Or would you rather see men having to explain who is looking after their kids while they’re rushing from appointment to appointment?
I am surrounded by women who, in their own way, reconcile their private lives with professional success quite intuitively. All I can say from my perspective is that both are inextricably linked. I consider myself lucky to run a family business - not only in the sense that my own children show an interest in the company and shape it with me, but also with regard to the spirit we embody as a team. We operate as a large
family - the parallels complement each other perfectly.
The image of women is changing significantly, even without considering keywords such as #metoo or New Feminism. To what extent are your designs inspired by social currents? To what extent are you influenced by current affairs?
It is touching to see how far-reaching taboos are broken and how many people engage in open discussions about issues that affect us all. Such dialogue paves new ways. In this context, fashion is always part of current affairs. Just like humans interact with each other in a socio-political context, fashion is also part of a bigger picture. It can only touch people emotionally if it remains on the pulse of the times. It’s not about trends, but rather about empathy.
You not only support women within your business, but also those in need of help: girls in Nepal and women suffering from breast cancer, for instance. Do you feel it is your responsibility to give something back?
I am inspired by strong women. The common theme of all these projects is the fact that alleged weaknesses turn out to be strengths. Only recently, for example, I cooperated with Rita in Palma. It’s a great initiative, run by an even greater young woman, that combines traditional craftsmanship with modern design. The initiative created a limited edition necklace for us; I have mine with me every day. Rita in Palma allows women with a migrant background to create accessories utilising traditional techniques. It affords them an
opportunity to start an independent life with a well-paid job. Such stories inspire and touch me: women who reinforce each other mutually with all their different facets!
What do you, as an entrepreneur and designer, want to achieve for the next generation? What’s your wish for young women and girls?
I hope that an increasing number of women manage to follow their own paths and that what former generations fought for can be taken for granted in the future. Maybe my story can inspire young women. That’s what my heart desires… Feminism is rather hip at the moment. Does this help the discussion in general?
Every movement and development has a past, a present, and a future. At the moment, many are participating in this particular dialogue - and that’s a good thing. And when will we women in fashion reach our ultimate goal?
I hope we never reach it. This wonderful journey should never end.
www.add.it
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IS FASHION FEMALE? The fashion world is, first and foremost, associated with the female gender. It depends, to a large part, on women who are fashion-conscious and willing to invest in fashion. How feminine are today’s collections? How feminine are they allowed to be? Perhaps the current often supposedly masculine - looks for women represent a new, more emancipated femininity, or even a new form of feminism? And what about our industry as a whole? Is the fashion business female? Are there enough women in positions of responsibility or are there still too few? Female industry professionals provide some exciting answers. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka, Martina Mßllner-Seybold, Nicoletta Schaper. Illustrations: Claudia Meitert@ Caroline Seidler
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WOW WOMAN
THIS CONCERNS US!
Martina Philipp, Owner, Max Laurenz Vienna No, fashion is currently not female. And that benefits my personal taste! It really doesn’t need to be oversized all the time, but the increasingly sportive focus is in line with the zeitgeist and represents progress in my eyes. I think the truth lies - as always - somewhere in the middle. Today, a woman can wear whatever she pleases: feminine, sexy, overdressed, oversized, sporty… And the best thing is that you can mix it all up. If you can master that, the result is something really cool: the WOW WOMAN. My advantage as a retailer is that many women are overwhelmed by the countless possibilities and thus choose to rely on me. Excellent advice scores 100 points in this context. My tip: pick out the right items for every occasion and avoid creating an all-over look. Fashion shouldn’t be taken too seriously; it should be fun. You should feel comfortable with the look you wear! Personally, I base my outfit choice on moods rather than on occasions. For me, it’s better to leave some things out than trying to force the next step up: less is more! Given that most of my customers are older than 40, I focus on the casualness of fashion. Being too ‘showy’ at our age often makes us look older than we want to be. Furthermore, an overall appearance is important to me. It’s not just about clothing, but also about body language, elegance, and positive charisma.
Andrea Frauenschuh, CEO, Frauenschuh Kitzbühel We are living in a time of total upheaval. Women in Austria won the right to vote 100 years ago. Emancipation is on the rise, but if you look very closely, it becomes clear that the process is still in motion. To this day, women are paid less across the board. In Austria and Germany, it is at least 25 percent less on average. And still fewer women than men find themselves in leading positions, both in companies and politics. And then there’s this new shift to right-wing ideals. One can feel the conservative undercurrent in the affected governments! While it’s very commendable that some designers are trying to protect women, isn’t this ‘pop feminism’ just another must-have accessory that’s way off the mark? I attempt to live feminism in line with my personal beliefs. In my capacity as buyer, I try to picture my typical customer: a demanding, professionally successful woman trying to live up to her family and career, as well as facing social challenges. I want my product range to reflect the woman as she is in real life, without falling into provocative or sexist stereotypes. But the self-conception of fashion isn’t quite there yet. Modern women still find it difficult enough to have children while working and to fulfil the standards set by ourselves and society. Furthermore, we women don’t show solidarity to each other. Women with a stronger personality are often envied and disparaged, especially by other women. I sense a lack of team spirit when fighting for a hugely important common cause. Where’s the courage in terms of fashion and our own personalities? This concerns us all, ladies!
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THE NEW FEMININITY
Sandra Denkena, Owner, Du Nord Oldenburg In my eyes, our typical customer is a strong woman who makes her own decisions in terms of clothing. She does that for herself, not for others. I think that’s feminine, because it’s strong! For me, personality is much more important than femininity. In my opinion, a woman is all the more fashionable and contemporary when she doesn’t dress too feminine, especially since the very feminine style often doesn’t suit the reality of everyday life. I have three children and manage three stores. I am always on the road and need to be able to move in my clothing. I would feel very uncomfortable if I had to mount my bike in a little dress and high heels! Women should have the courage to be individual. Our biggest challenge is to dress them accordingly in our store. It’s most fun to dress self-confident, self-determined women. I really wish there were more of them. These women embody the new femininity for me.
FEELING, CHAOS, SURPRISE
Ela Reck, Owner, Tuxedo Düsseldorf Is fashion female? I find the question rather peculiar. I always arrive at the same answer. Fashion can be everything: change, feeling, chaos, surprise, ever-new. It doesn’t matter whether fashion is made by women for women or by men, both heterosexual or homosexual. Perhaps a homosexual man understands women better, because he perceives women differently? Let’s take Giorgio Armani as an example, or Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel. I get goose bumps when I see the shows. Just look at the imagination and creativity he has when reinterpreting the overriding topic over and over again! Then, to name a female designer, there’s Sophie D’Hoore - a delicate, fragile looking woman who makes such strong fashion: clean and almost architectural for a modern and confident woman. I’m equally loathe to determine whether fashion is in a particularly male or female phase at the moment. Supposedly male looks don’t necessarily take away a woman’s femininity, because a woman can even look insanely feminine in a tuxedo.
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Contact: Manuela Windisch Nebauer – mwn@lunariacashmere.de
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BEHIND THE SCENES
Julia Menthel & Rike Döpp, Partner & CEOs, Agency V Strong women have their place in fashion history - from Vionnet to Chanel. But when it comes to earning money, men pull the strings. Be it medium-sized denim and sportswear retailers or large multinational corporations such as LVMH and Kering, there’s always a man in charge. However, if you look behind the scenes, you will find significantly more feminine power. Head-hunter Floriane de Saint Pierre is an institution when it comes to finding talent for the most sought-after creative jobs in the industry. Karla Otto, who runs one of the world’s largest multinational PR firms, is even from Germany. Sensitivity is seemingly still a female domain. However, when it comes to stock exchange listings or sportswear, the first thing you see is men in dark suits. The situation is changing, albeit slowly. Nevertheless, we ask ourselves whether, as a woman, you really want to spend your time talking to textile manufacturers in industrial areas. Wouldn’t it be more exciting to organise the next Viktor & Rolf show with Karla?
COMFORT AND SPORTINESS
Ingrid Strassburger, Owner, Strassburger Stuttgart I think today’s fashion can be feminine, but it certainly doesn’t have to be. Modern women decide very individually whether they wear a sweatshirt and jeans or a great dress. My customers dress in a more feminine style, but occasionally they like to combine a silk blouse with sweatpants or buy a hoodie by brands like Roqa. Although I think they probably wear the latter for sport. Generally speaking, comfort and sportiness are on the up, which is reflected at Strassburger in the mix of sporty and feminine items. Fashion was a lot more feminine ten to fifteen years ago - there were more dresses and skirts. Back then, it was unusual to see a middle-aged woman in sportswear. Today, it is as natural as wearing sneakers.
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PANORAMA-BERLIN.COM
CONNECTING COMMUNITIES
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IMPORTANT TURNAROUND
Vreni Frost, Founder & Editor-in-Chief, neverever.me & techandthecity.de In terms of the purchasing power of the female target group, fashion is certainly a female industry. Far more buying decisions are made by women than by men. The market has been aware of this for quite some time and is responding accordingly with adapted advertising strategies, even though most of them remain pitifully clichéd. But if we look inside the corporations, we primarily find men who determine what women should consume. However, movements like #metoo and #ihaveembraced have triggered a long-term rethink in this respect. An increasing number of women are fed up with being compartmentalised - or in this case: stuck in corsets - and are confidently calling for more tolerance in fashion. The trend points towards more individualism and self-awareness, away from the mainstream monotony of the Kardashians. The many unisex collections implemented by both premium brands and fast fashion labels highlight a trend reversal. In my eyes, this is a welcome and important turnaround.
EXCITING MIXTURE
Tanja Gründling, Head of Retail & Deputy Head of Global Consumer Products, Red Bull & Alpha Tauri The fashion industry is more female in comparison to other sectors, but it isn’t female per se. Within the Alpha Tauri team, the mix of male and female executives and product managers is one of the guarantors of success. Above all, the exchange of different perspectives and approaches is essential for the final product. Our in-house design team creates high-quality and innovative collections for women AND men. It collaborates with renowned textile manufacturers to develop our own textile technologies. Including these areas highlights the diversity of the fashion industry. For me, it is always nice to see how this mix of male and female decision makers acts as the driving force behind our exciting industry.
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GENDERLESS FASHIONTECH
Antje Hundhausen, Vice President Brand Experience, Deutsche Telekom As the founder of Telekom Fashion Fusion, a programme that promotes visionary concepts developed by startups and young entrepreneurs in the fields of fashion, technology, and product design, I probably have a slightly different view of fashion, especially as we are mainly interested in developments at the interface between fashion and technology. Looking at the finalists of 2018, we have a fairly balanced ratio of women and men. The presented projects also address both female and male audiences: apparel that controls apps, knitwear that can communicate, and 3D body scans that replace changing rooms. I think the future will be defined by a certain lifestyle, not by whether something has been specifically developed for women or men. Our goal for 2018 is to introduce the best project - with Deutsche Telekom and the jury as the driving force - to the market, regardless of the gender.
IMPORTANT EVERY DAY
Anja Grabherr-Petter, Designer, Phil Petter This is an interesting question, especially for someone like me, who designs men’s fashion‌ Naturally, for me as a designer, I first and foremost perceive fashion as male. As part of my job, I think from the perspective of men on a daily basis. My priority is to ensure that their needs are met and that they look great in my designs. In my world, fashion is therefore ostensibly not female. What may be considered female is my approach to creation, the high affinity with which I pursue fashion, and the importance I attach to fashion every day. The latter applies to me personally as a woman and to my company as an entrepreneur.
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Walter Moser GmbH, A-4863 Seewalchen am Attersee, Industriegebiet 2, T +43 (0) 7662 31 75-0, E office@airfield.at, www.airfield.at
MEET US AT CPD The Gallery Düsseldorf July 21 - July 23, 2018 Showroom Düsseldorf Agentur Berning & AIRFIELD International Showroom
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CHANGES
Sophia Bittner, Chief Marketing Officer, Airfield It’s no secret that women not only have to work harder to earn recognition; their appearance is under much more social scrutiny than that of men. For a long time the idea prevailed that women who wanted to be taken seriously in the working world needed to come across as neither too sexy, nor too feminine. I see a huge change in today’s society and this is reflected in the look of modern women. Clothing tends to be noticed and perceived as an expression of social changes. The current co-existence of fashion trends and socio-political action is not happening for the first time and I think it is a wonderful thing. I would love to see more femininity and a sense of beauty in the fashion industry again. This does not necessarily apply to women, but to the growing trend to reduce fashion to statistics, sales quotas, and profit. These things are certainly important, but we all work in an industry that depends - more than any other - on emotion, gut feeling, and passion for the product. The fashion industry will only change into what it deserves to be once we consciously remember that - an industry that creates beautiful things in an irrational and passionate manner, instead of getting caught up in sale battles and statistics.
SOLIDARITY
Maria Chiara Teza, CEO of Think Inc. Communications Of course there are still clear categories for men and women male and female. I am, however, excited to see that the boundaries are shifting. The simple reason for this is that the demands and views of people are changing. We have become more open to many things and that is reflected in collections and brands. Masculine fabrics are combined with feminine fabrics or colours. This places an initially masculine product in a new, exciting context. Naturally, the same applies to womenswear collections. It’s truly wonderful! It opens up, removes boundaries, and makes styling more enjoyable. At the end of the day, it unifies us. The fact that men are still in charge is not a fashion industry phenomenon. What is surprising is that change seems to come a little slower in this creative and aesthetic sector. It will balance out in due course. Change will not necessarily be triggered by the industry itself, but by prevailing megatrends. In this respect, women will play a significant role in the future. Ergo: we are living in a global world that is becoming increasingly international. It is all the more beautiful for it. I therefore believe it is only right and proper that men can wear feminine colours and women can see a men’s shirt as the focal point of their style. Christiane Arp has been pioneering this stance for quite some time.
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Rio de Janeiro FALL / WIN TER 2018
oddmolly.com Distribution Germany: BEN AND GmbH, agency@ben-and.com +49 (0) 89 323 080 46
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ALTERNATIVE CONCEPTS
Cherie Birkner, Photographer and Founder of Sustainable Fashion Matterz What does femininity mean? The topic is definitely open to dispute and there is no blackand-white answer to the question. For me, fertility is a significant characteristic of femininity. The fashion industry certainly isn’t fertile, because it is one of the dirtiest industries in terms of pollution. Production plants are pumping wastewater containing harmful chemicals into the groundwater, while the huge volume of pesticides required for cultivating cotton results in barren soils. This isn’t modern and feminine. Nevertheless, one needs to differentiate. The industry doesn’t only consist of large fashion chains run by men who earn money by exploiting women. Change within the fashion industry is gaining momentum, because consumers and labels have identified the relevant problems and are either eager to find solutions or have already implemented alternative concepts.
REAL SOLIDARITY
Julia Leifert, Founder & Designer Philomena Zanetti One of the many slogan t-shirts that one can spot increasingly often in public and which is presented online in a media-effective manner reads ‘The Future is Female’. This started well before the latest designer shows, by the way. Combative slogans are supposed to promote emancipation and women’s rights. But they are not an invention of the #metoo and ‘Women’s March’ movement; they date back to the 1970s. Nevertheless, the aforementioned slogan is a perfect fit for the chests of young women who show solidarity with those who protest against injustice. But how sincere can the message be given how regularly grievances within the fashion industry itself are uncovered? Behind the glossy façade of this industry, poorly paid women are often required to produce the pieces that make us feel like we’re making a difference on a piece-rate basis. Those women are also entitled to a future without oppression, repression, and disadvantages. And before we have understood - let alone overcome - the problem, we can find the next t-shirt online. It reads: ‘You cannot exploit women in one country to empower them in another’. Of course you can buy it – at an unbeatably low price.
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“I Can’t Say #Metoo” While fashions and those who create them attract the most attention with their comings and goings, there are very few masterminds capable of breaking such patterns with sheer skill. One of them is Margareta van den Bosch. The woman who was the Design Director of H&M for more than 20 years is now 75 years old. Her work was and remains - style-defining for generations of consumers who wear H&M because of the brand’s flair for current trends, not merely because of the price. It’s fair to say that Margareta van den Bosch saw this particular sign of the times when others didn’t. She has dealt with more images of women than most in the fashion industry. Interview: Stephan Huber. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photo: H&M
I’m sitting here in Stockholm with one of the most influential individuals in women’s fashion of the last decades. From my point of view, what H&M brought to fashion was a game changer. What was your approach when you started at H&M?
When I started at H&M in 1987, we were represented in six countries and we were seven designers. Today, H&M is active in 69 markets and has more than 330 designers. My approach was to develop the whole design department, to get more involved in trend research and the physical creation of the collections. I wanted to improve the whole team. When I came to H&M and I brought a lot of experience with me - the designers just bought the designs for some trendy garments. They put the trends together, but didn’t really have an impact on the influences of what the collections became. So that was my ambition: to give the whole design process a more profes-
sional feel. We created several concepts to have an assortment for different occasions.
I always find it somewhat silly to especially emphasise performance, power, or influence of women. But reality is as it is, not least in fashion even though about twothirds of sales are generated by women. And most people probably perceive “fashion” as female in nature. Yet the industry is male-dominated. Why?
Not at H&M - we have about 80 percent women in our team, even in managerial positions such as country managers or the director of the buying department for example. But I agree: although we see a lot of women working in the fashion industry, it’s still the businessmen who are in charge. They take care of the budgets and costs. Every concept needs someone who is responsible for the business and, more often than not, that person has studied business. But on the other hand, you have someone
responsible for design. So it is more complex today than it was before…
Was that ever an issue for you? Was there something like a “glass ceiling” for you? Or obstacles and disadvantages, BECAUSE you are a woman…?
No, I don’t think so. Even when I worked in Italy in small family-owned companies, which often had some kind of strict hierarchy in place, I never felt that way. My professionalism has always been my backbone. I had the talent, so nobody ever bothered to ask about my gender. Fashion is an extremely well-suited accelerant for social debates, especially in terms of actual or apparent “women’s issues”. What do you think about #Metoo?
I can’t say #Metoo, because I never experienced such things during the course of my career. But I am certain that there is a lot to talk about it in the fashion industry. We have a lot of people working in this field,
including very young models. This is certainly an issue for young, inexperienced designers. But I have no personal experience in this respect.
Another buzz-word associated with the fashion industry is body shaming?
It’s true that fashion creates artificial images of women. That is a problem. If you see the fashion shows, they always put on someone who is big and someone who is old to create some kind of balance. That’s a reaction to the needs of consumers and the media, but it doesn’t run very deep. Some people still have difficulties finding clothing in their sizes. But it’s good to be open and speak about it. No one should be ashamed to show herself. Do you agree that fashion creates an image that creates pressure for young girls?
Yes. It’s getting better, because so many voices are speaking out against it today - new voices. And the industry has changed its mind in terms of style in progress 318
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models, for example. We all want to show people who look healthy, but it is, of course, the job of a model to present the clothes and to look good in them. Exposing your body is part of the game.
I remember the big H&M campaign featuring Pamela Anderson. It was perceived as very offensive. Would that be possible today?
No, I don’t think so. It wouldn’t be possible today. People think it is too sexist and they are against that. It’s not just a small group of media influencers either, that’s the opinion of the consumers as well. Was it sexist?
It was, but nobody reacted at that time. Today, there is no way you could get away with it. Aren’t we becoming increasingly “conservative” in this context?
Of course. Everything needs to be politically correct. In my opinion, it is far too much to be correct all the time. Yes, we received a lot of criticism from feminists and people who rejected the posters of H&M, especially here and in Norway. In Sweden, for example, you are not allowed to launch a public campaign that is too sexist anymore. But apart from that, we wouldn’t do it anymore. It’s a matter of timing. You have to be super careful in terms of the message of a campaign, even if you want to make a joke. It’s better to be prepared if nobody laughs. There are a lot of jokes that one can no longer tell, even if you have a creative and artistic approach as a designer. For my personal taste, there’s a little bit too much correctness. Is being politically correct restricting the creative process? Let’s take Picasso. He was definitely an awful guy when it comes to women. To be consistent, should we remove his paintings from museums?
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what he was and what he did. He was terrible to women, but he wasn’t a rapist or anything like that. Maybe it’s a question of the right balance. There are artists who harbour both a genius and a demon within. He created something that has value for us today and we should appreciate that. We can’t start re-evaluating every person in history based on their political correctness, especially artists. Is fashion actually as superficial as it is often accused to be, especially by the socalled intellectual elite?
First of all, fashion is a vehicle to express your own personality. How can that be superficial? That’s the first message you send out, that’s how you present yourself. Of course, some people don’t have that option, possibly because they cannot afford it. But I think fashion has developed into a kind of creative expression - and even an art form - over the years. It has become more intellectual. To be honest, why should something like fashion not be superficial? Sometimes it’s absolutely ok if something is created to make people happy and more beautiful without a deeper meaning to it. When I started in the 1970s, designing fashion was perceived as very superficial. How could you dedicate your life to something profane like that? Nowadays, fashion interacts with culture and art. It has developed a common interest in people’s lifestyles. People take pictures of themselves for social media all the time. We all care about what others are wearing; it’s enveloping everybody. You once claimed: “When it comes to clothes, everything has been done”. Is there no longer new ground to break for fashion?
In terms of quality, materials, the recycling of old clothes, and sustainability, there is loads of new ground to break. There’s a lot of work to do in this respect. Consumers really shouldn’t replace their clothes every season; they should enjoy them longer. Today, everything is in fashion at the same time. It’s just our way of thinking that forbids us to buy the same
clothes again. So in my opinion, the idea of fast fashion is long outdated, because nobody needs to have items that fast. Still, people are boasting how fast there are, but for what? It merely indicates bad quality and copying. Fabrics are the driving force of today’s fashion business. It’s a weird feeling to sit in the headquarters of H&M and to talk about long-lasting clothes and sustainability. You were the inventor of Fast Fashion.
Yes, but we don’t like the term fast fashion, mainly because it is not true. First of all, we make a huge effort in terms of sustainability. We conduct a lot of research concerning recycling, for example. We are totally into that topic. When people want everything faster, you have to consider things like e-commerce and same-day delivery. I believe in online, but I don’t think that everything has to be this fast. The distribution must have an impact on how we buy things. More and more people are aware of that and what the fast turnaround of products means for our planet.
Speaking of uncharted territory, you definitely were a pioneer when you started the legendary designer collaborations at H&M. These are still your responsibility to this day.
Actually, the initial idea came from the marketing department. First, we just planned to do it for three years, but then it became so popular that we decided to continue. People queue for days to be the first to own those pieces. The latest collaboration, which will be launched in November, is with Moschino. For most people, it’s a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to own an item by Moschino. In other words: you made luxury democratic. Others accuse you of devaluing luxury, because luxury simply cannot be democratic.
No, of course luxury itself cannot be democratic. But we had very small volumes in a very short period; that was a win-win for both parties. The designers got publicity for a
short time and our consumers got a piece of high fashion. Did it change the feeling for price and value in a way?
Sure, that was a downsizing of prices. The designers didn’t understand how we could produce a product of that quality at that price. They were very surprised. Phoebe Philo is your personal favourite for a future collaboration. Does she represent a new image of women in fashion?
Definitely. She has such a great style that is also wearable. Everybody in fashion is constantly looking what she is doing and what she will be doing next. She is a woman I look up to. She’s a real influencer. Are there other women that you considered to be very influential?
There are many: Miuccia Prada of course, Stella McCartney, Isabel Marant, Diane von Fürstenberg, and Donatella Versace to name but a few. Finally, looking to the future you mentioned that one of the biggest game changers in your career was the Internet. What’s your verdict?
It changed everything. Today, we have global trends that all look similar, because we all watch the same movies, we all follow the same influencers, and we all see the same images. Honestly, I am not sure that the impact of the Internet was for the best. It brought so much pressure to be fast. It’s no longer about telling a story correctly - it’s all about being the first one telling it. The celebrity culture has such a big influence on everything we do. Personally, I don’t understand it. But I understand that it is there and we have to work with it. Especially in fashion, our modern, liberal society makes a dangerous promise to young people trough social media: you can be everything you want to be. That leads to young people having false expectations. They think they don’t need an education to become a designer; they believe they merely need to have 3.5 million followers on Instagram.
# p e u te rey
p e u te rey. c om
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GRAN DEZZA Why does the self-conception of Italian women affect us all? Because the Italian image of women is exported with Italian fashion. The country has never lacked women with strong personalities and fashion is benefitting from the fact that these women are now rising through the ranks in terms of both social and entrepreneurial standing. There is still a lot of room for a new kind of strong Italian woman between the so-called Velina the much-criticised showgirls of Italian TV - and the pastacooking mamma. style in progress sat down for a chat with the designers and entrepreneurs of a new generation.
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Leadership based on the principle of meritocracy: Francesca Lusini, the president of Peuterey Group, wants to ensure that her employees work in capacities that suit them best - both personally and for the company.
Francesca Lusini
“WOMEN WANT TO BE AUTHENTIC” Francesca Lusini, the president of Tuscany-based Peuterey Group, is tasked to restore the brand to its old strength. To this end, she trusts in female skills and competences. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photo: Peuterey
The fashion industry predominantly designs for and sells to women. However, the ratio of women in leading positions doesn’t reflect this. Do you see signs of change?
I definitely do and I support this strongly. An increasing number of women are becoming managing directors, creative directors, and CEOs. That’s very positive! Many women have that “special something”, be it strength, multi-tasking abilities, empathy, or determination. Regardless of the genre, I believe meritocracy is the most important factor and I encourage my team to do their best, both at work and in their private lives. Are women ready?
Absolutely! I am happy to see young women pursuing their dreams and showing determination to build a career with passion, consciousness, and commitment.
How do you encourage young women in your company?
318 style in progress
Dream big, study hard, follow your instincts, and care about people…
Is it particularly difficult for women to rise to leading positions in Italy?
Regardless of gender or country, such a path is always difficult. You need to prepare properly, define priorities, take risks, interact with others, and - in some cases - fight for what you believe in. At the same time, you also need to maintain a positive and exemplary attitude towards all team members. Is there enough political, public, and social support for women?
I believe you shouldn’t wait for somebody else’s support. If you wait, you’re not acting and not finding a solution, thus not doing your best. You merely wait. That certainly isn’t part of my nature.
For decades, Italian fashion dressed women for their social obligations rather than work. Today, many designers acknowledge that they need to dress women for all their everyday challenges, including taking the kids to the kindergarten, attending important meetings, and going out for an aperitif.
Absolutely! Today, we have a wide variety of styles to choose
from, both privately and at work. Peuterey has a motto: #RealityTelling. We believe that, first and foremost, clothing needs to satisfy needs while remaining representative, useful, and functional on an everyday basis. A woman’s reality always beats fiction: it requires a supreme effort to be yourself. What is Peuterey’s image of women?
We have an affinity to women who have neither an interest in nor the time for - exhibitionism. They are individuals who give back to society and establish bonds in their private and business lives. These women want to be clothed, not costumed. We strive for designs that are soulful and timeless. Truth, honesty, and purpose define the new luxury. Do modern women want to dress differently?
Women want to be authentic. Our experience tells us that they value quality and attention to detail. They share Peuterey’s values. They are on the lookout for versatile jackets that will complement their wardrobes for a long time, thus accompanying them while they shape their lives and share their stories with others. Is this reflected in your advertising campaigns?
Be it in advertising campaigns or social media content - we strive to show women in all aspects of life. It is important to have a strong personality and a positive attitude, not just a beautiful face. As a matter of fact, our campaign video for autumn/winter will take this into account by portraying people from different cultures who come together to interact, laugh, and enjoy life. Are women still in charge of purchase decisions within their respective families?
I think men listen to women, but the male curiosity in terms of fashion has increased. Men research brands in social media and magazines. This helps them make more confident decisions. They pay more attention to the quality of the products and the values of the brand they choose to wear.
078 WHAT'S THE STORY IN WOMEN WE TRUST
Anna Baschirotto has 20 years of experience in the luxury fashion industry. By appointing her as Global Marketing & Communication Director, Liu Jo hopes to improve its own image, raise brand awareness, and enhance the brand’s reputation.
Anna Baschirotto
“OUR PERSPECTIVE IS FEMALE” Liu Jo is a women’s brand through and through. President Marco Machi manages a company in which 85 percent of employees are female. By promoting women like Anna Baschirotto to leading positions, he hopes to elevate the dialogue with female consumers to a whole new level. style in progress sat down for a chat with the woman in charge of international marketing and communication. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photo: Liu Jo
Fortunately, the number of women in leading positions is increasing. Is it a good time for women to pursue a career?
Generally speaking, it is an important time for women in society, especially for women in executive roles - across all industries. As a woman, I’m happy to see increasingly strong and smooth cooperation in the fashion world, as well as an increase in recognition of female skills that have been underestimated for too long. Fashion is an 318 style in progress
industry that largely speaks of women and their complexity, so it cannot exist without females with strong messages. How does Liu Jo perceive women?
It perceives a confident, resolute woman who embraces femininity in a well-balanced, all-out manner. She balances work and private life without ever forgetting her own identity as an individual and a woman. Does the new brand of feminism influence the design language of Liu Jo?
“New Feminism” and the empowerment of women have always been close to the brand’s heart and we have effectively embraced the topics for many seasons now. That’s why women with personality were at the centre of the last few advertising campaigns. We intend to continue pursuing this approach with a more sophisticated image of fashion. Liu Jo’s designs revolve around femininity and its many facets. We have always designed fits and styles that suit and dress every woman. We strive to make women feel more beautiful, more empowered, and
more like themselves.
What are the skills that women in leading positions bring to the table?
Vision, strategy, courage, skills, passion, and unrestrained curiosity… How do you promote women within your company?
Liu Jo is a company in which women account for approx. 85 percent of the staff. That shows how the brand perceives the work of the women who represent its deepest, most genuine soul at several levels. The female point of view is always where we start when developing strategies, projects, or products. Liu Jo talks to and is inspired by women. The company strives to give women a voice, genuinely and pervasively. In our specific case, there’s still a lot to do in terms of finding the right balance and to give women more flexibility within a smart working environment. These are important areas in which the company is investing a lot of energy. What are your short-term and medium-term goals?
We are definitely keen to work on the brand image and com-
munication in order to improve the quality and positioning. The autumn/winter 2018 season is our starting point for a strong and dynamic synergy of offline and online communication. Generally speaking, we are investing in the dialogue with our female consumers. We want to get to know them better and establish mutual understanding between the brand and female consumers. In what way can your female skills help to achieve these goals?
Being a woman in this position definitely helps. One of our self-declared goals is to engage new consumers while reinforcing the conversation with existing consumers. I believe the fact that I’m a woman can actually help the brand build a more effective, in-depth dialogue that speaks to women from their perspective.
080 WHAT'S THE STORY IN WOMEN WE TRUST
1991 is the year she was born. With her brand 19/91 Lateral Product, Martina Sossi represents the lifestyle of millennials in many ways. She strives to shift the focus from blind consumerism to fashion with value.
Martina Sossi
“WE BEAR RESPONSIBILITY” Martina Sossi perceives herself as an “interpreneur”. She enjoys the backing of her parents’ family business, but is nevertheless keen to leave her own mark on the company. 19/91 Lateral Product is her interpretation of a modern woman who pushes boundaries - just like she does herself. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photo: 19/91 Lateral Product
You represent a new generation of Italian entrepreneurs: educated in the US with a global mindset, yet still deeply rooted. Your collection is being manufactured exclusively in Italy…
We millennials bear a certain amount of responsibility. We are very fortunate that our parents have created such a fantastic base for us. It’s our responsibil318 style in progress
ity to make what already exists contemporary. If one launches a brand in the manner I did, one can only think globally. We are so connected today. We are addressing the world from the very first moment. Therefore, it’s important to create a product that not only suits a slim white woman, but suits all skin colours, cultures, and sizes. We also bear a responsibility for our homeland. If we merely have a profit-oriented mindset and outsource production to low-wage countries, what should become of our own country?
And yet you launched your brand in the US first. How does that particular market inspire you?
I travelled to the US for the first time when I was 15 and I saw what a woman can achieve there. This still fascinates me to this day. I wanted to launch the brand in the US, because I feel
that market is very open to concepts like mine. Americans like these kind of “brain things”. What makes 19/91 Lateral Product so suitable for modern women?
My starting point was a material that is functional, yet still incredibly high-quality. It bridges the gap between athleisure and ready-to-wear. It is pleasant to wear, wonderfully practical, and one recognises the high quality at first glance. It is perfectly in line with my vision. I base all my ideas on anatomy and always think in silhouettes. And the vision is…?
I want to create a timeless, high-quality collection that is inclusive by nature. I have no interest in current trends. The focus needs to return to the product. That’s why my first collection was completely black. It highlighted the conceptual approach even more. Interest-
ingly, Italian women understand this quite intuitively. They can tell that there is a difference between my products and fast fashion. They reflect on the idea and consequently understand that 19/91 Lateral Product is a brand with substance.
You are part of a generation of women who know almost no limits in terms of options. What would you want to improve?
The fact that I produce in Italy is an important point. We have to resist the throw-away mentality in fashion. We need to ensure that our products and brands have value again. It requires a lot of sensitivity and I believe that women are good at that. The focus needs to return to the consumer. This isn’t achieved by being excellent in understanding numbers and algorithms. We need to translate emotions and needs into clothing.
082 WHAT'S THE STORY IN WOMEN WE TRUST
Her designs are clear, feminine, and avant-garde. Erika Cavallini creates fashion for a woman with her feet firmly on the ground.
Erika Cavallini
“FASHION IS EDGING CLOSER TO EVERYDAY LIFE” Her style is clear, occasionally avant-garde, and always feminine. With her collections Erika Cavallini, as well as the second line Semi Couture, the eponymous Italian businesswoman is enjoying international success and has thus emancipated herself from the classic role of Italian women. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photo: Erika Cavallini
Erika Cavallini, was your career as a fashion designer a foregone conclusion?
After completing art school, I worked as a consultant until I was tired of pursuing the goals of others. Initially, I wanted to open a restaurant with my sister, but in the summer of 2008, while strolling through a Provencal market, I had the idea to design a ten-piece collection 318 style in progress
for my friends. That’s how the adventure started! Today, I operate within a group that owns four more brands. If you ask me how I made it this far, I’d definitely say it’s down to dedication and teamwork. Which challenges does an Italian woman with professional ambitions face today?
Let me put it this way: the Italian perception of family, which still has great significance in our country, certainly doesn’t make it easier for a woman who wants both a career and a family.
Italian fashion in particular has the image of being more adorned, which is more in keeping with a woman who focuses on her social life rather than work. Is the understanding of roles changing?
Today’s fashion is edging closer to everyday life. When I design my collections, I look at my own
situation and create items that I myself would wear between office work, meetings, and dinners with friends. My penultimate winter collection was inspired by the power of women in order to express awareness of a woman’s inner strength and her vital role - with strong shoulders, slim lines, and clear silhouettes. Last summer, I sent many different women aged between 20 and 70 onto the catwalk. They were real, working women who play an active role in society and everyday life. My fashion and my idea of beauty are not subject to any restrictive schemes. You are a passionate collector of furniture and other interior design items. Is this reflected in your collections?
Design of all kinds is my great passion. It certainly helps my creative work. I love collecting things and designing spaces. My store in Via della Spiga in
Milan, for example, I designed in wonderful teamwork with Amo Studio Design from my hometown of Modena. It’s defined by beautiful materials, few superstructures, and well-balanced colours. It also features some real finds. This project resulted in something that I see as my own and it really reflects my personality. How will your collection evolve?
I imagine a woman who is becoming more elegant and sophisticated without ever being excessive. Today, recycling is a very important topic for me. Since time immemorial, I have included unique pieces in my collections by transforming vintage pieces into something new. This is laborious work, but it has symbolic value. After all, our customers will place more emphasis on personalisation and uniqueness in the future.
084 WHAT'S THE STORY IN WOMEN WE TRUST
Caterina Negra is responsible for design at contemporary brand Pinko. She also embodies a new generation of young, strong Italian women.
Caterina Negra
“EQUAL OPPORTUNITIES ARE IMPORTANT TO US” The driving force behind the high-end contemporary brand Pinko is an independent family business. Caterina Negra, the daughter of founder Pietro Negra, is responsible for design. She fulfils her job with verve and inventiveness. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photo: Caterina Negra
Caterina Negra, you are part of a generation of modern and emancipated Italian women. Is society changing?
I’m actually really convinced that change is finally taking place. We are experiencing a moment of empowerment that will surely result in more women in leading positions in all areas! At Pinko, women have always played a central role. When the company was founded by my parents in the early 1990s, my mother took centre stage. As a 318 style in progress
modern, strong, and ambitious woman, she has always been a role model for how personal dreams, work, and family can be reconciled. The proportion of women is very high in our company, be it in the design, retail, or marketing department. Equal opportunities are important to us! This is one of the reasons why we have set up a day-care centre at our headquarters in Fidenza. Nevertheless, women are still far from enjoying equal opportunities in many cases.
That’s true. Just look at the tornado within the Hollywood universe that created the #metoo movement and which is merely the proverbial tip of the iceberg. I am, however, confident that this, along with the desire for women to support each other, will give a great boost to change. Which female skills could help propel women to the executive level of companies?
We are perfectionists by nature and set very high standards for ourselves. We are very disciplined and also have the ability to subordinate things to our goals. In addition, we are good listeners and have creative sensibility. I believe that we women are - more than ever ready to take advantage of the opportunities that may arise. Even though we are still at the beginning of a long journey, this new feminism, which is spreading across the globe, will help us along. What should fashion for the modern woman be? What must it fulfil?
Today, it is all about the needs of a modern, strong, curious, and creative woman who fulfils her many responsibilities. She is a woman with personality and a sense of irony, who feels comfortable with her body and doesn’t like stereotypes. This has always been evident in the
Pinko advertising campaigns, for which we always cast women with huge personalities: feminine and sensual, but also courageous. How will the Pinko brand evolve? What are the next steps?
We are increasingly focusing on sustainability in terms of environment, ethics, and labour, as proven by our initiative Pinko x Treedom and our new social plan. In addition, we have reorganised and strengthened our design team. We now have a very young and versatile team. Working with young talents is wonderful; they show incredible enthusiasm and have many great ideas! Furthermore, we are in constant dialogue with the market. By listening closely to our partners, we are highly adaptable and evolve as a brand.
WHAT'S THE STORY 085 IN WOMEN WE TRUST
A creative mind through and through: Silvia Mazzoli is the creator of Ottod’Ame, a brand that celebrates femininity beyond all clichés.
Silvia Mazzoli
“WOMEN ARE CHANGING” Silvia Mazzoli, the founder of the Ottod’Ame brand, is a role model: freethinking and unconventional with a design language of her own - and that’s why she is so strong. It’s difficult to assign the designer to a specific category. The brand is a commitment to the diversity of female consumers for whom the successful businesswoman creates pieces. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photo: Ottod’Ame
Does the fashion industry take into account the fact it lives off women to a high extent?
It’s certainly true that men’s fashion is more recognised internationally. It’s definitely more difficult to stand out in women’s fashion, because there is more competition and its complexity leads to more supply. What prevents women from pursuing a career?
Women apportion their energy to their various societal roles and their families, but I can see a big change in this respect.
What does it take to build your own brand? And is the next generation of women ready to take on these challenges?
It requires an incredible amount of passion. You need to believe in yourself immovably. I love surrounding myself with young
women who bring vigour and determination to the table. In Italy, we have excellent schools in the field of fashion. In my own company, I am very willing to give young women an opportunity to gain practical experience. Is society doing enough to promote women in leading positions?
Yes, there is support, but there are still too few female leaders. Which social role of women do your designs reflect?
The role of women is changing significantly; women themselves are changing. The fact that a woman is no longer merely in the kitchen is also reflected in different clothing styles. Cloth-
ing has to be suitable for many situations in everyday life.
Which type of woman do you design for?
I design for a woman who values her appearance, but is not obsessive. She sees shopping as fun and enjoys discovering high-quality products. Have demands changed?
I prefer to picture a woman who loves comfort without sacrificing originality - a woman who has found her own style and masters an entire day in her clothes. This is also reflected in our advertising campaigns. Our style can be very different, but it has a common spirit. Ottod’Ame women are unique and they should feel that way too. style in progress 318
086 WHAT'S THE STORY IN WOMEN WE TRUST
Elisabetta Franchi stands for fashion that is as strong as it is feminine. This is not a contradiction for the Italian designer, who is also known for her commitment to animal welfare.
Elisabetta Franchi
“SOMETIMES I NEED TO BARE MY CLAWS” Elisabetta Franchi is the heart and soul of her own brand, which she promotes with creativity, passion, and pragmatism. Her feminine, yet powerful, designs appeal to strong women beyond Italy’s borders. Among them are stars such as Angelina Jolie, Kate Hudson, Jennifer Lopez, and Dita von Teese. Text: Nicoletta Schaper.
Photo: Elisabetta Franchi
Elisabetta Franchi, your fashion combines femininity and strength. How strong are women in our industry?
Compared to men, women have always had to make twice the effort in order to stand out, especially in positions that have been associated with male protagonists over the years. I think the situation is changing, but it is still very difficult for us. Only truly confident women 318 style in progress
have the power to achieve their goals. To reach a certain level in one’s job, it is necessary to show great determination and to work hard every day, with clear goals in mind. Surely we should be further down the line in this respect.
I think it’s because society has been structured the way it is for centuries. Only in recent decades have women really succeeded in gaining more rights and freedom. This is a topic that is close to my heart. That’s why I am keen to highlight it in my collections, such as in my current summer collection, which was inspired by the America of the late 19th century. This was a time when women started taking their first steps towards independence. Is gaining this independence even more difficult for Italian women?
I can say that Italy has evolved quite a bit, but it’s still hard for
a woman to live and build a career here. Much needs to be improved.
What is your personal recipe for success?
You can be a pleasant and sensual woman, but you must also be able to bare your claws and defend yourself when needed.
Today’s modern women have many roles to play. What vision do you have in mind when designing your collection?
She is very active and dynamic, a diligent, working woman who faces many challenges of everyday life. For all her strength, she loves being glamorous and refined and knows how to emphasise her femininity without ever foregoing style and elegance. For this type of woman, whom I try to convey to my audience, I often draw inspiration from famous female personalities who were an example of strength and style. My latest autumn/winter
2018 collection is inspired by the Italian actress Monica Vitti. Every collection is a personal evolution, another step in the development of my brand and aesthetics.
Apart from your fashion, you are also known for your special commitment to animal welfare. Since 2015, your collections are free from animal products.
In my opinion, the use of animals in the manufacture of fashion or clothing is nothing short of barbarity! I strongly believe that it is possible to create comprehensive collections without having to kill animals. An increasing number of people are becoming aware of the topic, which means an increasing number of designers are deciding to follow this path and to pursue a fur-free policy.
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088 WHAT'S THE STORY IN WOMEN WE TRUST
Hey, Mrs President: Claudia Orciani replaced her father as the managing director - or as Italians say: “presidente” - of Orciani SpA.
Claudia Orciani
“I DON’T LOSE MYSELF IN DISCUSSIONS” Claudia Orciani has grown into the role of managing director of leather goods manufacturer Orciani gradually. The company is a family business through and through. Father Claudio has been the eminence since Orciani’s foundation in 1978, while her sister is responsible for the design of belts, bags, small leather goods, and travel accessories. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photo: Orciani
You represent a new generation of Italian entrepreneurs: highly educated, with a global mindset, yet still deeply rooted…
That describes exactly how I feel and who I am: a cosmopolitan, yet rooted in my homeland. I have a global vision of life and work, but with values that have been passed on from one generation to the next. Since I was little, I have travelled a lot. My family is my anchor. Now that I have joined the family business, I am travelling even more. However, my family and the company remain my sanctuary, the perfect place to analyse what I have seen and learned on the road with clarity. Your products are produced exclusively in Italy. Which aspects have your sister and you brought to the company and how did you reconcile them with the roots of the business?
318 style in progress
To that end, I would like to elaborate on what I said at the beginning. Italy and the rest of the world, the past and the future, tradition and innovation - this is what we instil in the various departments of the company: from the commercial to the stylistic side, as well as in terms of marketing and all creative agendas. It’s a solid combination of aspects that are only seemingly contradictory, but are, in fact, in dialogue with each other and lead the business to new results. That was our task from the outset.
Your brand combines femininity and strength. How strong are women in our industry?
In every industry - not just in fashion - there are factors that define a brand and its recognisability in the market. The DNA of Orciani is certainly “wild & rock”, singular, independent of trends, and a little rebellious without ever losing sight of its inherent elegance and simplicity. These are attributes with which I identify myself and which I convey as an individual. As the saying goes: everyone is what they do and - today more than ever - everyone is what they communicate. I am a young woman who has taken on responsibility in the company and who has grown into this role gradually with strength and willpower, yet without relinquishing my feminine side as a woman and mother. Which skills do women in leading positions bring to the table?
I don’t have a recipe for female leadership. I can, however, say that the example set by my father helped me a lot: a boss who was always present in the company, a team player who always conveyed his goals. He was able to delegate without ever relinquishing control. That’s what defines an excellent leader: keeping a balance between making decisions and handing responsibility to the team. It’s all about assembling a group of people willing to make inroads, but who are also intelligent enough to accept the company’s decisions when necessary. I certainly don’t lack steadfastness, analytical capability, or willingness to compromise. However, I don’t lose myself in discussions if I’m convinced that I’m right. What should accessories for modern women be? What should they stand for?
The first word that comes to mind when I think about accessories for modern women is multi-tasking. They need to be functional, versatile, and suitable for many occasions and moments. In short, they should be something that accompanies you throughout the day: during the morning in the office, in the afternoon in the park, and when meeting girlfriends in the evening - an object that expresses our identity as women who are feminine, maternal, and masculine at the same time. What are the next steps for Orciani? How will the brand evolve?
We are in the midst of a profound transformation. Our company needs to present itself self-evidently on this new stage. Our brand must adapt to the new rules of the market and new social dynamics. Internationalisation is one aspect: an entrepreneurial response to an unstoppable globalisation process. However, we don’t believe that internationalisation means abandoning our identity. On the contrary, we strive to strengthen our identity in order to show and communicate it to the whole world. The other aspect leading to profound changes is digitisation. This challenge cannot be mastered by merely buying some software. The solution is to guide people to take advantage of the new opportunities that arise. We plan to launch our new website shortly. It will be fully responsive and dynamic, because we believe that e-commerce is of paramount importance due to its role as a virtual storefront. Generally speaking, I think it would be short-sighted to merely speak of steps. I believe it is fundamental to subject the product to constant evolution. The best way to respond to the dynamics of the market is to never stand still. Our family has always been committed to this approach.
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090 WHAT'S THE STORY IN WOMEN WE TRUST
In his capacity as the Managing Director of Sales, Norbert Lock relies heavily on close partnerships, in-depth exchange, and identification with the company.
Karin Veit, the Managing Director of Design, has been working at Marc Cain since 1975. This unusual continuity is most certainly a strength.
Marc Cain 318 style in progress
WHAT'S THE STORY 091 IN WOMEN WE TRUST
“We Never Needed to Reinvent Ourselves” In spite of major changes in the market, Marc Cain has remained a constant and successful player over many years. In an interview with style in progress Editor-in-Chief Stephan Huber, Karin Veit, the Managing Director of Design, and Norbert Lock, the Managing Director of Sales, explain how they manage to reconcile continuity with flexibility while always keeping a close eye on the Marc Cain customer. Interview: Stephan Huber. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Marc Cain
Mrs Veit, are you a women whisperer?
Karin Veit: Maybe one could say that, yes. When I design, I always start with myself. I go by what interests and touches me, as well as current trend highlights. That’s what has to be translated into a collection.
At the same time, both society and the industry itself have changed fundamentally in recent years. The same applies to the target group.
Karin Veit: That’s why it’s all the more important to keep up. Our exchange with sales and retail is very close. What is changing? What is currently in? What defines the zeitgeist? All of this flows into our design. Marc Cain is no longer merely one collection. It is divided into several labels such as Marc Cain Collection, Marc
Cain Sports, and Marc Cain Additions. We work in small topics, in stories. This approach is very popular. Norbert Lock: Our consistency is the other secret of our success. Marc Cain doesn’t hire new designers or product managers every four years. That preserves our DNA and allows us to build on our expertise. Is this continuity a requirement for remaining fast and flexible?
Karin Veit: It is certainly decisive. I have been working at Marc Cain since 1975. I know our typical customer and her needs. I try to implement trends fashionably and commercially with her in mind. The pace within the industry has increased enormously, which has - in turn - accelerated the collection rhythms.
Especially fashion for women has changed massively.
Norbert Lock: Through our various labels, we have the opportunity to adapt to new trends without losing sight of our DNA - be it the fit-wear trend, contemporary, or the trend towards individuality with coordinates. The retail trade often couldn’t change as quickly as the trends came up. For a long time, there wasn’t even a customer base for contemporary! We benefit from the fact that fashion increasingly focuses on one piece, because we have always been strong in terms of individual pieces. Another advantage is that we - unlike other well-known brands - don’t have our roots in the ready-to-wear segment. So it was easier for us to address the cross-dressing topic, which
has always been style-defining for Marc Cain anyway. Another secret of success seems to be that you have overcome the need to think in seasons by picking up a range of topics.
Karin Veit: We turned our backs on those two years ago. We take the term ready-to-wear literally. Norbert Lock: In June, we can neither deliver white linen, nor heavy knitwear. It’s especially challenging to offer something that is perceived by the customer as “just in time” in the transitional months of November, December, June, and July. Our industry has succeeded in making sure that customers buy fashion long before they actually wear it. It is as absurd as people buying an
style in progress 318
092 WHAT'S THE STORY IN WOMEN WE TRUST
iPhone X and having to wait three months for it to be unlocked.
Karin Veit: That’s exactly why we don’t call it a spring collection, but a collection with a delivery date in November that can actually be worn in November. It needs to be marketable early, because the clearance sales start in May. We no longer think in summer and winter collections, but in colours, prints, and materials. The delivery dates have remained the same. Norbert Lock: It has proven to be useful to divide the delivery itself into smaller groups. Large customers like PKZ or Jelmoli require a certain volume from us, but there is a mass of goods in retail to start off with. The art lies in the right introduction rhythm and the right merchandising approach. We no longer rely on three large topics, but also offer capsules that we call “Top of the Week” or “Top of the Month”. How did you take the retailers on board?
Norbert Lock: We offer fashion coaching, which is an essential element of our communication strategy. Over the past seven weeks, we presented the collection themes to our retail partners in Vienna, Zurich, Amsterdam, Antwerp, London, and Moscow. The focus is, of course, on sales assistants. It is vital that they understand Marc Cain. These coaching sessions are in high demand, as are the coaching session in our in-house Marc Cain Academy. The Garhammer team, for example, was willing to board a bus at 4am to ensure that they have enough time for a company tour before the coaching starts. It’s not just about sales advice, but also about style advice and merchandising. We also convey our knitting 318 style in progress
and printing processes, which are core competences of Marc Cain. But that also suggests that the product alone is no longer sufficient…
Norbert Lock: We strive to convey the world of Marc Cain to retailers and department stores. We also handle merchandising for some major customers, which is often expected of us as a strong partner. When we design the shop windows at Breuninger, P&C Nord, Appelrath, KaDeWe, and Oberpollinger, it’s a marketing investment that pays off for us too. The current core target group is the very first generation to grow up with vertical concepts. Thus it has learned a very different definition of fashion and consumption. The next generation has grown up with the Internet and online shopping. How do you adapt to such changes?
Norbert Lock: In the premium segment, we have always focused on a woman aged 50 or older. In terms of Marc Cain Sports, the typical customers are even a little older. Many of them are no longer working and enjoy dressing casually. They may have worn our business looks for 20 years and would like to remain true to Marc Cain, because they trust the brand. It’s interesting that you speak about that so openly, especially as our industry tends to be so youth-driven.
Norbert Lock: A 25-year-old student can’t afford a cashmere sweater for 350 Euros. The same applies to a young mother who has just bought a house with her husband. A 35-year-old articled clerk may treat herself to a Marc Cain Essential jersey blazer for 199 Euros as a first step into our
world. Surprisingly, our typical online customer is ten years younger. So the latter is almost half a generation younger than the women who shop in the Marc Cain stores.
Norbert Lock: Younger people have a different approach. For example, if my 27-year-old daughter is looking for a dirndl dress online, she doesn’t search for a brand. She types in the terms “dirndl with blouse” and “turquoise”. When a 40-year-old needs a dress for a wedding in Mallorca, she might type “dress”, “colourful”, and “embroidered”. That’s how she finds Marc Cain, even if she has never heard about the brand before and would never have thought about visiting one of our stores. The latter has to do with a certain threshold anxiety. In this respect, our TV commercials, which are aimed at addressing our younger customers, have proved very helpful. Which other reasons explain why Marc Cain manages what so many others fail at: not to age with the customers, but to evolve with young customers?
Karin Veit: We surround ourselves with many young and creative people. Our experienced designers with a lot of know-how work very closely with young designers. Everyone can benefit from each other, thus creating fresh energy. Marc Cain took digitisation seriously at an early stage. How do you connect the brand to the customers?
Norbert Lock: Our own stores are linked to our warehouse, which means that one can see immediately whether an item is available in a certain colour or size. The next step is to add our franchise stores to this network by October. Next year, we
strive to embed our multi-label partners too. Whereby we are shifting the commodity risk even further to our side, because we reserve the goods for our retail partners without purchase guarantees.
This could facilitate the seasonal cleaning within the retail trade, especially as it allows various retailers to exchange goods with each other.
Norbert Lock: That’s our vision of the future, yes. There are, however, still some unresolved issues such as settlement and data protection. Many retailers are reluctant to share data, even though I see great potential for added value on the retail side. What will determine the market in the next three to five years? And what answers does Marc Cain have?
Norbert Lock: The general perception is that consumers spend most of their money on travelling and eating out. But as long as they do that, I am not worried about the future of fashion. After all, they want to be well dressed while pursuing those particular activities. We will continue to work on how we can reach our target group and to find out how the segments of the retail trade shift. How high is the future percentage of coordinates? How will the premium segment evolve? Will contemporary prevail? In line with our principles, we will react flexibly and adjust our collections accordingly. We never had to reinvent ourselves as a brand, we merely supplement the offering.
094 WHAT'S THE STORY IN WOMEN WE TRUST
SALON DIALOGUE
HOW WILL WOMEN BUY TOMORROW?
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WHAT'S THE STORY 095 IN WOMEN WE TRUST
What is the key when it comes to buying fashion? Storytelling is fair enough, but how much advice is really desirable? And what about online shopping? In our style in progress salon dialogue, female consumers and retail experts discuss the current state of the retail trade and its future.
Interview and text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Peter Schaffrath
Retail experts and female consumers met up in Düsseldorf’s Malkasten for the style in progress salon dialogue,
style in progress: Today, the retail trade offers an enormous variety, but fewer and fewer customers are willing to visit stores. Is everyone shopping online?
Stephanie Mayer, fashion editor at Jades24: I do believe that the mass of fashion overwhelms many. In addition, there isn’t just one trend to follow, but ten. That’s why our online shop Jades24.com offers style suggestions for every item of clothing to show what it could be combined with. Most employed women certainly have no desire to sacrifice an entire Saturday for shopping. Time has become the greatest luxury of all. Ultimately, our online shop does nothing else than gift our customers more time. Simone Chrystall, owner of Chrystall Düsseldorf: The time factor definitely plays into the hands of the online trade. In my Chrystall store, I have attempted to combine shopping with gastronomy. This approach caters for customers who have the time to meet their girlfriends for a coffee after buying fashion. Today, the café is operated by someone else, mainly because I couldn’t give the catering operation the time and passion it deserves. Even though my customers still combine a shopping session with a visit to the café, my customer frequency continues to decline and I haven’t found a solution yet. Given the enormous product ranges, consumers definitely crave guidance. But many retailers fail to supply just that.
Maria Mertens: In Germany, there are many women who would like to receive my advice, but they are not willing to pay for it. Some of them are friends, but I also believe that this stance is rooted in the German mentality. Other countries, like the US, are a little further in this respect. There, style coaching is a welcome service and is paid as such.
to know the product range of all stores in order to find the right fashion for the respective type. After all, I don’t want to redefine my client or impose my style on her. The work behind the scenes often goes unnoticed. I know a woman who goes into town with her husband every weekend and spends 30,000 Euros on clothes. However, the looks she creates are often not particularly flattering. This woman would never admit that she needs advice. That applies to many people, I think. Everyone thinks they have taste. Patricia Dickmann, real estate agent: I also believe that there is a market for coaching - or better: that there will be a market in this country. In my industry, we have companies that style homes in order to make them more marketable. It’s called home-staging. This method is particularly beneficial in new properties, because the interior designer can influence the process from the start, which also gives customers planning security. I can imagine that the same would work well in the fashion industry.
Maria Mertens: When the advice comes from a business, it is no longer objective. Style coaching is hard work. I have to make myself acquainted with the wardrobe of the respective client to determine what it lacks and what would fit in. I need
Allegra Isert, AMD fashion student: I prefer visiting the stores. I want to see the colours as they really are and I love the feel of materials. But maybe I’m not your average customer in this respect. My friend recently
This is one of the reasons why new job profiles, such as shopping consultants, have emerged. Maria Mertens, you act as a style coach for your clients in Paris and Milan. How did that come about?
Maria Mertens: It wasn’t difficult to get started in Paris. I was selling fashion in my store at the time and a woman was so excited by my look that she asked me whether she could book me as a consultant. She was really thrilled with my service and recommended me to others. I was also recommended in Milan by a friend with a large circle of friends and acquaintances. So one thing led to another. Why not in Germany?
Many German luxury retailers, such as Breuninger, have been offering this service for quite some time and not only to their VIP customers.
Allegra, at the tender age of 19 you are the youngest in the group. Do young people prefer to buy online - especially as you grew up with the Internet?
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told me about her last visit to Zara. She left straight away, because she felt the place was too untidy! So she ordered loads of stuff online - only to send everything back, because she didn’t like any of it. Many think that’s the way things work today. Personally, I find it too time-consuming to go to the post office with a parcel or to pay in advance for something that I don’t want to keep. If I shop online, I do so quite deliberately - only when I have seen an item and know the size fits, but the store didn’t have it in stock. In those cases, I prefer to shop online rather than having to go back later. Peggy Berger-Hopp, marketing assistant: I really don’t like visiting stores like Zara; the volume of goods drives me crazy. You could move the hangers ten years ago, but not anymore. I have so little desire to go shopping anyway; I simply don’t have enough time. I prefer to frequent a few smaller stores. In Düsseldorf, for example, I enjoy concept stores such as Unterhaltung:Lieblingsstücke or Selekteur. In these stores, I never look for anything specific, but I always find something. I find things that surprise me! I have the best ideas in such stores, including gift ideas. I’m not
“Given the enormous product ranges, consumers definitely crave guidance. But many retailers fail to supply just that.” Simone Chrystall, owner of Chrystall Düsseldorf
318 style in progress
a customer who looks for specific items. I’d return home frustrated after not finding anything. Patricia Dickmann: If I want to buy white pants, I usually do some research in advance as to where they can be purchased and then I buy them too. I’m usually in a rush timewise, which is why I’m not overly critical, even if the pants aren’t exactly what I was looking for. If I have more time, I enjoy visiting small stores like the ones in Düsseldorf-Flingern. I love stores in which I can feel that the owner shares my fashion taste. In those cases, it feels like they bought all their stock just for me. Stephanie Mayer: Today, it is more important than ever to sell a lifestyle. Some smaller stores create entire theme worlds that prove the owner has thought very hard about the customers and what they could like besides fashion. At Jades24, we also promote specific topics such as the Coachella Festival. While it is clear that not all of our customers are likely to attend the festival, they still enjoy buying a piece of the dream and lifestyle. This is exactly where the retail trade needs to do more to attract those who may not enjoy buying fashion. Simone Chrystall: That’s exactly what we’re working on. However, we have noticed a trend proving that impulse buys, such as a vase decorated in the style of the fashion, are in decline. An increasing number of customers want to check online first to see whether the item is cheaper somewhere else. And there’s always someone online who has put that particular series on sale, thus offering it cheaper! It makes life very difficult for us. Even when customers trust us and are convinced by the product, they want to make sure that they pay the cheapest price. Patricia Dickmann: I really enjoy buying an item I love right on the spot. I enjoy the experience all the more when a salesperson packs it nicely and maybe even puts a cute bow on the bag. This is what defines a great shopping experience for me. Simone Chrystall: However, many customers come to the store to look around before they go online to see if the desired item is available as a bargain somewhere else. The industry itself has to shoulder much of the blame. I haven’t reduced prices as rigorously as I used to for the last two years; I believe one shouldn’t devalue the product too much. On a different note, I feel as if looks aren’t as new and different every season. The new collections don’t surprise me as much as they used to. The fact that retailers fall prey to their own insecurities - and thus order similar ranges and avoid risks - reinforces this impression. But if I buy something out of the ordinary for the store, I can tell that my customers aren’t ready for it yet. They’ll ask for it a season later, when I no longer have it in stock. At the same time, fashion has gathered pace again. This certainly has something
“Influencers may always look great, but they no longer embody their own style. They get all their stuff from brands. In my opinion, that’s not real.” Allegra Isert, AMD fashion student
to do with the fact that today’s consumers are better informed. Does this mean it takes longer than we think for a trend to reach consumers?
Maria Mertens: It does in many cases, yes. The first pre-fall turtleneck sweaters hit the stores in April, which is before consumers have even worn their summer wardrobe. This pace overwhelms almost everyone. Peggy Berger-Hopp: I thought it was a good time to buy a new bikini back in March. I entered the store wrapped in thick clothes, because it was quite cold outside. I tried on two or three models in the changing room, but nothing looked good on my winter-white skin with pressure sores caused by stockings on my leg. It was definitely too early for bikinis! I only felt a desire to buy summer things when the first warm rays of sunshine appeared in mid-April. Simone Chrystall: I feel the same way. But sometimes I have a plan and buy early, mainly because I know that I won’t be able to get certain items later. Maria Mertens: At Eickhoff, certain items really weren’t in stock later. They had three versions - that was it. Today, creating an
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098 WHAT'S THE STORY IN WOMEN WE TRUST
and just want to own everything they see. Even a shower gel that was created by some influencer… At the end of the day, it’s just a normal shower gel that costs three Euros more. Stephanie Mayer: In fact, 90 to 95 percent of my outfits are inspired by Instagram. I don’t care whether influencers are paid to wear certain brands. The look is the only thing that counts for me. And every look can be replicated with other brands than Gucci and the like. I am, for example, inspired by Anine Bing, who showcases very wearable fashion. Her street styles don’t look like they’ve come straight out of a shop window or reflect some obscure looks presented in glossy magazines. The huge advantage of e-retailers is convenience.
Maria Mertens: With the disadvantage, however, that one needs to pay twice when ordering two sizes to choose from. Stephanie Mayer: Not in our case! We offer shopping on account, meaning that we only debit the price of what you actually purchased.
“I love stores in which I can feel that the owner shares my fashion taste. In those cases, it feels like they bought all their stock just for me.” Patricia Dickmann, real estate agent
artificial shortage no longer works because of online shopping. Today, items one can see at online fashion shows are - in some cases available instantly. Fashion customers want those items right away, not in half a year. Stephanie Mayer: The entire Missoni swimwear collection was sold out at Jades24 in March within a few days, which surprised us somewhat. Some collections by famous bloggers sell out within seconds. Our typical customer is fashion-savvy, is aware of upcoming trends, and knows what is limited. In this segment, there really are no boundaries in terms of “too early” for us! Speaking of bloggers and their playground, Instagram: both play an important role in the promotion of fashion trends today.
Allegra Isert: Personally, I am not a big fan, even though I find the influencer phenomenon quite exciting from a professional point of view. They may always look great, but they no longer embody their own style. They get all their stuff from brands. In my opinion, that’s not real. Are your friends, especially those who don’t study fashion, aware of that?
Allegra Isert: I guess not. Most people don’t bother with looking behind the scenes 318 style in progress
The high return rate is indeed a huge issue for many e-retailers. Is it actually worth it for a multi-label retailer to have an online shop?
Stephanie Mayer: In our case it definitely is. Ordering that much to choose from is rather exceptional. Maybe the fact that we operate in a high-price segment makes people more deliberate. Customers who order five items from us usually don’t send them back. It’s certainly different for Zara and Mango. We also strive to be as precise as possible in the description of the items in order to avoid returns. Simone Chrystall: At Chrystall, we actively promote the option to take home items to choose from. Strangely, this offer is rarely accepted. It seems as if customers have inhibitions to do so. An online shop will always remain impersonal, which means stores will always be able to convince with personality and individual advice. However, selling something is a very difficult skill to master and entails so much more than merely taking sweaters off shelves. Allegra Isert: I am a woman who knows exactly what she wants. I don’t need much help, even though it sometimes feels odd when I have to do everything myself in a store. On the other hand, I don’t want to be asked constantly: Do you like that? Does this suit you? I welcome a few suggestions or that the sales assistant hangs up an item in the changing room for me. Simone Chrystall: Giving excellent advice is an art. One should never give customers the feeling that one is eager to convince them of buying something desperately. One mustn’t forget that salespeople are required to work in the stores until 7pm and even on Saturdays, mostly at a relatively low income. This job is subject to very different demands than
ten years ago. In addition, the profession is usually undervalued.
What needs to change to make you want to return to stores? What is important to you personally?
Peggy Berger-Hopp: I always enjoy exploring the background story of what I buy. Is it a small manufactory that keeps traditional craftsmanship alive by utilising old machines? Or is it a footwear specialist from Portugal that lovingly manufactures handsewn shoes? I am willing to spend more money on such stories. Allegra Isert: I come from Bocholt near the Dutch border, where there are many small stores in which one knows everyone personally. Even when I’m in Holland, I prefer to visit the small boutiques, where everything is closely related and paints an overall picture. Brands are more of an afterthought in this context. On the other hand, I also buy a lot from Zara, mainly because the price is good and the trends are fast. Peggy Berger-Hopp: My grown-up daughter, who is 21 years old now, doesn’t like going into town at all. She only frequents two or three stores in which she has enjoyed positive experiences and that offer inexpensive fashion. An example is Subdued in Düsseldorf’s historic town centre. Our buying behaviour is contrary. If I leave the
“In Germany, there are many women who would like to receive my advice, but they are not willing to pay for it.” Maria Mertens, style coach
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house on a Saturday, I open my closet. If she leaves the house on a Saturday, she wants to go shopping. I’m a stranger to this world. I prefer buying something that is more durable due to its quality. That seems more sustainable to me. Stephanie Mayer: Clothing is always an expression of how you feel. It allows you to discover and express new facets of your personality. This obviously plays into the hands of the fashion industry. Peggy Berger-Hopp: I believe there are so many other ways to express your identity other than via clothing, as so many young people tend to do. I wish they could just rest within themselves. Then everything else would fall into place. Stephanie Mayer: But clothing can be helpful in this respect. I chose to wear a blazer today; it makes me feel a little smarter! Today’s consumers are said to be loyal to neither store nor brand. Do you still experience such loyalty nonetheless?
Patricia Dickmann: I have this loyalty. Even though I look all over the place, I still always return to that one underwear store. I think the range assembled by the owner is simply stunning. I am also loyal to some brands. However, quality is more important to me than a brand.
“Just think how many goods are being produced despite dwindling resources. I can’t imagine it will go on like this forever.” Peggy Berger-Hopp, marketing assistant
318 style in progress
What do you expect from a store that you visit? Or what do stores lack from time to time?
Patricia Dickmann: I would like a holistic approach to advice. I know what I like, but I sometimes struggle with combinations. I’d enjoy some styling advice as long as it comes at a reasonable price. Stephanie Mayer: Modern consumers want to be inspired and surprised. While Zara redecorates several times a week, the smaller stores display the same collections for weeks. It’s more difficult for them, because they don’t have the capacity to re-dress the mannequins and re-design the shop window every day. Maria Mertens: One also doesn’t even get new goods delivered anymore. Simone Chrystall: We are trying to offset that problem by not presenting all goods at once, but by releasing them to the sales floor gradually. Peggy Berger-Hopp: As a salesperson, one needs to develop a sense for the customer. I work in the Düsseldorf branch of Repeat Cashmere a few days a week. Recently, a lady entered the store just before closing time. She had visited us many times, but she had never bought anything. She seemed really unfriendly at first. I still acted the same as I always do, with the result that she left the store happy an hour later, after spending 1,000 Euros. Maria Mertens: She noticed that someone is taking the time to serve her. That’s why she felt comfortable and started buying. Simone Chrystall: We have very different types of salespeople; they are just as diverse as our customers. Some enjoy intensive advice and want the sales assistant to be right behind them, while others feel beset in such a situation. Some customers prefer to visit the store when their favourite sales assistant is on duty. I don’t think that a consistent strategy for how best to deal with customers exists. Stephanie Mayer: Many customers are highly sensitive. They want honest advice, but not all of them can stomach an honest opinion. Simone Chrystall: Most women feel comfortable when a sales assistant has an open ear for their wishes and takes the time for a personal exchange. Stephanie Mayer: Our online customers may have spent the whole day talking, be it with their kids or in business meetings. They are happy to be left in peace. When buying online, one doesn’t have to engage in small talk that may cost another half hour. Simone Chrystall: Still, I don’t believe that all stores will have disappeared in ten or twenty years time. Maybe there will be more showrooms to facilitate online shopping, but I am convinced that brands will still have to present themselves offline. It is still very difficult to create a brand online. Why
“Time has become the greatest luxury of all. Ultimately, our online shop does nothing else than gift our customers more time.” Stephanie Mayer, fashion editor at Jades24
else would so many e-retailers open stores of their own? Because it’s easier to interact with customers… Peggy Berger-Hopp: The retail industry will prevail, albeit perhaps not in the form as we know it today. The young consumers of today will undergo a transformation. Just think how many goods are being produced despite dwindling resources. I can’t imagine it will go on like this forever. Maria Mertens: I wouldn’t be surprised if craftsmanship experiences a renaissance. The personal and individual aspects are becoming even more important, because the consumer is overwhelmed by mass in the long run. Stephanie Mayer: Nevertheless, the online trade will certainly continue to grow, because the time factor plays an increasingly important role too. I think that stationary retailers will draw more from digitisation in the future, for instance by installing intelligent mirrors. There are an increasing number of smart, digital solutions that can be integrated into a business naturally. But there will also always be customers who love the shopping experience only a store can offer and who will take the time for a proper shopping spree.
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Between
OBJECT and Subject The Image of Women in Fashion
Following Trump and #MeToo, new feminism is en vogue. Catwalks act as a stage for real statements. For a long time, fashion wasn’t political at all - today it is. The new feminine self-perception does not renounce femininity, as is seen in the depiction of powerful women with sex appeal. At the same time, there are fierce debates within the industry and advertising campaigns - as in the case of Saint Laurent - are banned when women are depicted as too submissive. What is sexy and self-determined? What is supposedly imposed? Opinions differ widely about how strong women should behave and the self-image of women is far from self-evident. Fashion is looking for its own take on the situation. It comes out fighting and emphasises sex appeal. But it also hides behind bulky oversize items, wide men’s trousers, and unisex designs. What has to change in fashion and the industry in general in order to ensure that women finally make the transition from object to subject? Text: Petrina Engelke, Ina Köhler, Martina Müllner-Seybold, Kay Alexander Plonka, Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Interviewees, Reid Beels, Jennifer Fey
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Live the Freedom
Lena Terlutter, Influencer and Owner of Boutique Belgique and BB Loves Cologne
The Industry is Experimenting Susann Hoffmann, Co-Founder of Edition F
“For some it is freedom, self-realisation, creativity, and expression. For others it is a vile routine, a celebration of superficiality, or a path to a safe zone where one doesn’t attract attention or - even worse - forgets oneself. Fashion is perceived so differently and yet it is always more than the clothes we wear. Whether consciously or unconsciously, the clothes we wear underline social stereotypes: hipster, philistine, normal, you name it. We are sexy or reserved, conservative or extreme. The categories seem more infinite than ever, but at the end of the day we are still searching for a construct that allows us to understand who we are and who our opposite is. The dilemma is that nobody knows what’s what these days anyway. So, the question is whether fashion really helps us in the search for who we are or whether it is merely a means to an end to do justice to the personal chameleon, to re-express one’s attitude on a daily basis. Sometimes quietly, sometimes loudly… After all, I don’t eat spaghetti every single day. One thing is certain: the industry is experimenting. And we are playing along as consumers. But do I believe in the fashion dictate and in consumers that allow themselves to be driven by an industry that fills our stores? Hardly… Today, fashion strives to be more political than ever. Bold statements on feminism, freedom, or the anti-Trump movement can be found on shirts, sweaters, and caps. It almost seems as if the product doesn’t matter; it’s all about the positioning in terms of content. What fashion is currently experiencing comes from consumers. The world is becoming more political, feminism is socially acceptable again, and everyone has something to say against Trump. Especially the female voices are getting louder and more self-confident. That’s fantastic. After all, we have praised the ‘old white man’ in the sky for decades. The world is changing. The same applies to fashion and the industry. Those who don’t change are yesterday’s news. The latter is barely imaginable in fashion.”
“Fashion is communication. It is a signal, an appeal, and a mirror image of every individual and society. It is the outside of the inside, so to speak. It has always been - and will always be - political, but has lacked such (unwanted, yet necessary) anchors and ‘crying points’ such as Trump and #metoo. Those who define themselves - or allow themselves to be defined - as a slave and object are just that. The compulsive image of women as objects should be seen as part of ‘Trump’s fake world of lacking culture’. Nothing needs to change in terms of fashion; there shouldn’t even be a debate about that. The absolute implicitness that fashion is a way to express oneself and should be fun needs to be rediscovered. Thank god we live in a free country: everyone is allowed to marry whoever they want and everyone is allowed to be whoever they want (and express it with fashion). It is exactly this freedom that I love and live to the fullest in my job as an entrepreneur. I can express myself and my personality with my style and, at best, inspire my followers. On Instagram, I not only share my business life, but also provide many insights into my private life, my family, and our home. I am often asked how I manage to reconcile it all: managing my businesses, kids, family, friends, and hobbies. My job doesn’t really feel like work for me. I draw strength from it rather than it draining me. The comments on my blog suggest that I am perceived as a power woman. Naturally, it makes me very happy if I can encourage women to pursue their dreams confidently. Women strive to - and can - achieve anything today. They are keen to be successful both professionally and privately. That balancing act is often not easy. At the same time, they have to fight clichés and hold their own more than men. The saddest aspect of the debate is not the men, but the women themselves. Nobody fights dirtier than women against women, or even worse: mothers against mothers. It’s a shame that women don’t support each other more and pat each other on the back when something great has been achieved. I hope that my postings contribute to proving that it is possible to do both. Family and career are compatible. At the same time, I hope that women can feel free and express themselves creatively.” style in progress 318
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Diversity via Inclusion
Keah Brown, US-based journalist who created the hashtag #DisabledAndCute
Fashion Thrives on Contradiction Petra Fladenhofer, Marketing Director of The KaDeWe Group
“I believe this discussion currently includes many aspects that don’t really belong together. Fashion is an expression of our gender affiliation or an expression of playing with said affiliation. Fashion tells a story about feelings and moods, thus thriving on contradictions. In the 1920s, women wore suits and sported bobs. They were economical, but not necessarily self-sufficient. Kim Kardashian’s fashion expression, however, is in line with the cliché of a self-imposed porn-chic and, at the same time, undermines it at least to the extent that she is even more successful than her husband. Likewise, the fashion content and its business are often contradictory. Weren’t Palestinian scarves in fashion a while back? For example, the majority of individuals buying fashion are female, but women remain underrepresented in the business itself. The reasons for this are similar to other industries. Are the ‘statements’ on the catwalks ‘real’ or merely bold and marketable catchwords? Time will tell…” 318 style in progress
“The fashion world’s predominant image of women is often a very thin, white, or ethnically ambiguous woman in varied sexualised contexts or positions. After the #MeToo movement gained traction, I’ve seen only a little change: more campaigns where the same women are less sexualised. There has been a push to give these photo shoots more context in giving women agency to be sexual if they please. But that’s only one aspect. Ableism - the discrimination in favour of able-bodied people - is all around us and it affects our everyday lives, beliefs, decisions, and actions. Much of that is a dislike of what people don’t understand, and some don’t ever want to. Fashion should consider and champion diversity via inclusion that begins by showcasing non-binary people of colour and all genders. There is also the fact that most clothing is not able to fit disabled bodies, because our bodies are often not symmetrical. Apart from that, I think clothes can fail us in that not all people are thin and petite - and not all people love feminine styled clothing. It is a very big question what the fashion industry should start doing in order to address these failures. I am still trying to figure out the answer. The first thing that can be done to fix these issues is an apology, yes, but also a promise and execution of action. The fashion industry should make more clothes for disabled people. I think they have to work on the fear of doing something wrong and try it anyway. I would also serve the industry to feature people with different types of bodies - including disabilities, both physical and invisible - in advertising so that people see people in the real world reflected back to them. I think a hashtag can achieve a lot and already has, as I can tell as the creator of #DisabledAndCute. It began online, so people without Internet access didn’t know about it until it started reaching print-based publications. I think it has opened people’s eyes a bit and helped able-bodied people confront their biases. It is also providing disabled people with a sense of community. So it’s more than a hashtag; it’s a movement. I think that’s what hashtags can do. Sometimes, when we trivialise them, we are actually trivialising communities and hard work. I’m a journalist and writer first and foremost, but some people only think of me as a hashtag creator. Nevertheless, I’m very proud of the work that I do both as a writer and with the hashtag, limitations and all.”
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P R E M I U M B E R L I N , H A L L E 3 , S TA N D D 2 1 AGENTUR WAGNER HAMBURG – AGENTUR TSTYLE HAMBURG – AGENTUR WAGNER DÜSSELDORF – MIKE ISTEL DÜSSELDORF DIE MODEBOTSCHAFT OFFENBACH – MATTHIAS SCHWARTE MÜNCHEN – FRANÇOIS BÜCHE GLATTBRUGG – FREE MOUNTAIN SALZBURG
106 WHAT'S THE STORY IN WOMEN WE TRUST
Analysis of the Content
Prof. Kai Jünemann, Photographer, University of Applied Sciences & Arts Dortmund
“One of the most pressing issues - and therefore one of the most desirable in terms of change - is the fact that there still aren’t enough women in key, decision-making positions of major fashion houses. At the same time, women are still - in terms of percentage - massively underrepresented among the international photographers who shoot for magazines like Vogue and Elle - and shape modern campaigns. More EllesVMH and more women like Maria Grazia Chiuri could lead to a short-term fashion hype being anchored within social consensus in small steps. Young female photographers like Harley Weir, Jana Gerberding, and Laura Kaczmarek utilise completely different storytelling techniques to portray new and differentiated images of women, especially in fashion photography. Established publications such as the legendary Pirelli Calendar have been booking photographers like Annie Leibovitz, Peter Lindhberg, and Tim Walker for years. They stage their motifs in a way that are far removed from conventional, supposedly erotic imagery worlds. Artists such as Nan Goldin, whose work has always had a strong focus on issues of ‘gender building’, now cooperate with fashion houses (Bottega Veneta, supreme, etc.). Platforms like girlsareawesome.com connect and portray ‘women who live their lives with style and strength’. And last but not least, the feminist angle was and is omnipresent in numerous fashion shows of the last season(s). The broad field of fashion photography primarily works with models who are booked in a similar way to actors, albeit with a few exceptions (for example Jürgen Teller or Ryan McGinley). This approach presupposes a certain degree of objectification per se, albeit more in the sense of pursuing the idea of staging normative stereotypes rather than actual objectification. For this reason, I consider the analysis of the content of the respective photographic settings to be much more important. Which images of women, role models, clichés, and scenography can I (still) show as a photographer? And which ones do I actually want to show? The individual creative position may and must be reconsidered constantly, not least in the context of social responsibility. An ongoing open discourse is a prerequisite. The ‘strength of a woman’ and the feminist concerns definitely should not be gauged by the length of the skirt’s hem.” 318 style in progress
It’s About Attitude Again
Nicole Adler, Author and Initiator of Wien for Women Only
“The standardised image of women - young, thin, and immaculate (very stereotypical) - is what is so irritating and almost disturbing today. The editing techniques and optimisation options that flood our imagery via Instagram and social media change our perception of reality. One has to sell oneself and stage oneself in the best possible way, thus turning into a commodity, a product. Pouting lips and wide open eyes turn all these young influencer girls and social media queens into dolls - they solidify to objects. The fashion business itself merely follows this distorted image contingently. Trendsetting labels such as Vetements (with stylist Lotta Valkova) and Balenciaga are quite deliberately placing people from the streets on the catwalk, thus propagating different ideals. It’s more about attitude, coolness, protest, and the genderless theme. Let’s not forget that ugly sneakers and XL shirts have conquered the female street style (if one can still call it that in this context). Fashion is fighting back - and that’s encouraging.”
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FE M R PO W E ME N T ARE NEVER S R E E R A C ’S N E M REAL-LIFE WO DINARY, AND R O A R T X E S Y A W L LINEAR, A THRILLER. A S A G IN IT C X E S SOMETIMES A CEO OF A , R U E N E R P E R T N E BOARD MEMBER, ADE WOMAN -M F L E S R O , S S E FAMILY BUSIN REER STILL A C L U F S S E C C U S FEMALES WITH A . THE ST YLE IN N IO T N E T T A T C A R SEEM TO ATT EXCEPTIONAL F O S IT A R T R O P S PROGRES Y PROVE R T S U D IN N IO H S A EF WOMEN WITHIN TH HE ATTENTION T L L A E V R E S E D THAT THEY FULLY THEY RECEIVE.
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“ONE NEEDS TO ACCEPT SUPPORT”
Angelika Schindler-Obenhaus worked at Horten, SinnLeffers, Boecker, and CBR before joining Bielefeld-based KATAG in 2005. She has been a board member of the system services provider for the fashion industry since 2010.
As a member of the board of KATAG, Angelika Schindler-Obenhaus is one of the few women in German fashion who manages more than a billion in turnover. She has had a decisive impact on the restructuring process of the ancillary textile services provider. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photo: KATAG AG
“My career would no longer be possible today,” says Angelika Schindler-Obenhaus. Instead of a master’s degree, the businesswoman brings a classic education within the textile industry to the table. She worked as a retail saleswoman, retail assistant, and department manager. She also went from being a branch assistant to working as a buyer. “More often than not, I was the first woman in the respective positions,” Schindler-Obenhaus adds. “All my mentors were men; some of them gave me more credit than I gave myself.” She seized every single opportunity with courage, worked hard, and displayed what she calls female perfectionism. “Slowly but surely, I’m learning to let go of the latter and to delegate from time to time. I’m still far too involved in operational aspects,” laughs the woman who has been on the board of Europe’s leading provider of system services to the fashion industry since 2010. She is in charge of vertical systems, purchasing, IT,
sales, and marketing, as well as sourcing and procurement. She is thus responsible for key positions that have contributed to KATAG’s transformation from a somewhat dusty purchasing organisation into a modern service provider. Schindler-Obenhaus poured her heart and soul into the 14 own brands and their trading-up. “Many of our retail partners, such as Konen and L&T, traded up, which had to be taken into account by our own brands. There were initial plans to buy a brand, but I asked for the permission to prove that we can operate in the premium sector ourselves.” Breaking with Old Structures
Not least because of her work for CBR Group, Schindler-Obenhaus has a lot of experience in setting up and operating vertically integrated systems. With a healthy dose of gut feeling and courage in terms of both branding and sourcing, she managed to convince KATAG. “(THE MERCER) N.Y. is clearly one of our figureheads; I’m particularly proud of that.” In terms of marketing, she has established close ties with Glam-o-Meter’s Annette Weber and Victoria Rader. (THE MERCER) N.Y. also produces their small fashion collection. “Annette is one of those women whose career inspires me and with whom I can practice real networking. We help each
other to be more successful.” According to the board member, this is probably the biggest drawback for women with career ambitions. “We simply don’t have the same network as men in similar positions.” Networks are, however, indispensable once one reaches a certain level in one’s profession. “KATAG is downright exemplary in this respect. Dr Daniel Terberger offered me a lot of support and allowed me to do my thing, even though my job didn’t necessarily make me the most popular employee at the beginning.” Schindler-Obenhaus saw it as her task to break with old structures. What is seen as a success story today, required many tough decisions. “However, I believe women are often better at making tough calls, because they remain empathetic as leaders.” She is also more than happy to pass on her experience. “67 percent of our employees are female and we train many women. Unfortunately, many women decide against accepting encouragement and support. At the end of the day, one needs to be willing to accept support.”
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110 WHAT'S THE STORY IN WOMEN WE TRUST
“WE ARE THE PIPPI LONGSTOCKING OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY”
43-year-old Jennie Högstedt Björk joined Odd Molly in 2011. She used to work for H&M and is an experienced business controller and executive.
Jennie Högstedt Björk will replace her predecessor Anna Attemark as CEO of Odd Molly in August 2018. The fact that the new CEO comes from the own ranks rather than being recruited externally is typical of the listed company based in Stockholm. Even the brand vision encourages one Molly to promote the other. Interview: Stephan Huber. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Odd Molly
Odd Molly has undergone an amazing evolution. The brand has not only generated continual growth since its launch in 2002, but has also continuously developed its look and positioning. How did you achieve that?
The aspiration has always been to create a clothes brand that would dare to stand out, be imaginative, and make its own way. Odd Molly wouldn’t exist without Molly, a skater girl in Venice Beach in the 1980s. Molly was the only girl in her group of friends who didn’t strive to fit in. Instead, she was herself and went her own way. Our vision is to create more Mollys in the world, strengthen girls, and make them believe in themselves. I believe this has made the brand both relevant and au-
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thentic. Another reason for our continuous development is that we’ve always strived to create exciting designs and take on new categories that include bold and beautiful colours, unique patterns, and handmade details without compromising continuity in our design. Our style is strong and clear, thus easy to apply to different product groups. Knowing and understanding one’s target group is essential. How or under which influences has this target group in this case women - changed in recent years?
We can sense a clear change over the past few years in the sense that our customers become increasingly daring, for example in terms of prints and colours. Our key objective is to increase sales outside of Sweden and we have noticed that international customers are even more daring than Swedish customers at times. That’s very fortunate for us. For us as a company, the work we’ve done in regard to sustainability has been very important. We can see that those kinds of questions are becoming increasingly important to customers. We sense a lot of interest and engagement from our customers in this area, much more than we did a couple of years ago. Another trend that de-
fines our customers is that they oppose the principle of mass consumption. They prefer buying fewer really great pieces that will last for a long time. Odd Molly is the most sought-after brand on the largest Swedish e-retailers of second-hand products. We see that as proof of the quality of our products and their long life cycle. How do women shape Odd Molly as a business?
It’s important to us to embody our vision within the company, to help create more Mollys in the world, strengthen girls, and make them believe in themselves. I also think that many of us perceive ourselves as a Molly. We work hard to create an atmosphere that promotes new ideas and courage. This has resulted in a team that dares to take a stand and show initiative. This has subsequently resulted in us primarily recruiting internally, because it’s easy to spot potential within the existing team. Who is Odd Molly addressing today?
Wholesale is crucial for us. It’s very important to us to not exclude anyone, but a true Molly is someone who breaks with conventions to follow her own dreams in life. We sometimes describe ourselves as the Pippi Longstocking of the fashion industry. The women we address are women who dare to stand out and want to be noticed. Our
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design is feminine and flattering in order to look good on everyone, regardless of age, figure, or skin colour.
Unadjusted, strong, and thus trend-independent: Odd Molly caters for women who see no need to adapt.
Let’s talk about digitisation. How has your company faced the perhaps biggest challenge within our industry?
We were quite early when we established our own dynamic e-commerce operations in 2011. Thus we are well-equipped in terms of picking up new digital trends. We operate in an extremely fast-paced environment, so it has been crucial for us to adjust in order to keep up in terms of production, logistics, digital marketing, and technical improvements. There’s no end to this development, so it has been vital to improve the competences that digitisation requires in-house. Digitisation aside, we mustn’t forget the experience of a store visit and being advised by dedicated professionals. In the future, global growth with multi-brand retailers is a priority. From a consumer perspective, we believe it is essential to experience Odd Molly with other brands. From an insider tip to an international brand with a presence in 40 countries what are your next medium-term goals in a very competitive market?
To immerse ourselves in new markets and to remain fearless - always.
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112 WHAT'S THE STORY IN WOMEN WE TRUST
“WE STILL HAVE ENORMOUS POTENTIAL”
Ulli Ehrlich represents the second generation at the helm of Sportalm Kitzbühel.
Are one’s own roots really always a blessing? The Sportalm Kitzbühel brand has its roots in the traditional costume and skiwear segments, yet it still successfully established itself as an international fashion house. MD Ulli Ehrlich and Stephan Huber, the Editor-in-Chief of style in progress, took the company’s 65th anniversary as an opportunity to talk about achievements, future goals, and what it takes to run a business as a woman and a mother of five. Interview: Stephan Huber. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Volksbank Tirol/Berger, Sportalm
15 years ago, you started establishing Sportalm Kitzbühel as a fashion brand outside the limiting boundaries of traditional costumes and skiwear. Was the decision born out of necessity?
Ulli Ehrlich, MD of Sportalm Kitzbühel: Taking such a courageous step was rather born out of an intuitive instinct in combination with the necessary impartiality. If we had thought about it more carefully and commissioned marketing studies, we probably would have decided against such a move and would never have come as far as we have. Naturally, we are very pleased that we have succeeded in bringing a unique style to the world.
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How does a comparatively small family business manage to do this?
Our great strength is our sense of values. Our own production facility allows us to manufacture in Europe and to stand for sustainability. Consumers are becoming ever more sensitive in that respect. That gives us the requisite know-how for the future. Are your brand’s roots in the traditional costume and skiwear segments a hurdle, especially as a brand based in Kitzbühel?
It can be a hurdle if the origin implies that our fashion is all about boiled wool and loden. Initially, that was only a hurdle in the German-speaking markets. Today, we stand for a unique design language. We only know how to be Sportalm and we don’t desire to be anything else. We cannot deny our DNA, especially as skiwear and traditional costumes still account for 30 percent and 10 percent of our sales respectively. Our strongest foothold is the fashion that is successful on an international level. In the Czech Republic, for instance, we were immediately perceived as a cool brand without being reduced to the traditional costume topic. What benefits the brand in the long run is the general trend towards sportiness and functionality.
Our know-how allows us to combine fashion and function authentically. Other fashion brands find that difficult or even impossible to achieve. It goes without saying that a Sportalm parka needs to endure wind, rain, and snow. During a training session in our showroom, one of the attending sales assistants argued that the down jacket by brand XY is much softer. I explained that it’s softer because it lacks functionality. As soon as you upgrade nylon technologically, it gains stiffness. He understood that immediately; it was a real eye-opener for him. Was the path to success beset with challenges?
We struggled with the economic difficulties in the Russian market. After all, that market is especially important to us. At the same time, we lost a major retail customer when Sport Eybl filed for insolvency in 2014. We need to thank my father Wilhelm Ehrlich and his conservative financial policy for the fact that these two events didn’t endanger the existence of Sportalm. We then scrutinised all our costs, analysed our markets, and - of course - optimised our collection. That brought us back on track. What are your self-declared goals?
We still have enormous potential, both in existing markets and in future ones. My vi-
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sion is to establish Sportalm Kitzbühel as a lifestyle brand. Although the term may be a little trite, I don’t know of a better one. And I am utterly convinced that we have what it takes. Our heritage and our roots in Kitzbühel, which embodies sportiness and tradition with a touch of glamour, lend the brand the emotion it needs to be successful - be it in China, where we are in the process of launching our skiwear, or in our core markets, where we intend to grow hand-in-hand with our retail partners. Even in our female-dominated industry, women in leading positions remain a rarity. Aren’t women predestined to empathise with the respective target groups?
It is true that it isn’t logical for men to run businesses that are primarily about women. But being a woman in a leading position is also not exactly family-friendly. As an entrepreneur, I have the luxury of knowing that my five children are taken care of and I enjoy the backing of my family. In addition, I can make my own schedule. I want to be able to attend school plays and ski races. I want to be able to pick up my son when the school calls telling me that he isn’t feeling well. I wouldn’t enjoy such flexibility if I was an employee. Frankly, I don’t know how I would feel about having an employee like me with five children. I have all the more respect for single mothers who are forced to handle everything alone!
Today, Sportalm stands - above all - for fashion, yet without ever denying its roots in the traditional costume and skiwear segments.
So achieving equal rights in our industry is thwarted by the proverbial glass ceiling?
I believe so. It may be possible for companies like Google to provide childcare to women, but we, as a fashion company, simply can’t afford it, especially as we don’t have the profit margins of a technology company. Apart from children, women still stand in their own way too often. Men cry “Me!” and literally pound their chests. Women, on the other hand, whisper “We!” and are too modest to emphasise their own performance. I catch myself doing that too! Success requires entrepreneurship and a willingness to take risks, no matter whether you’re a man or a woman. Fortune favours the capable. And you need this fortune to nurture the seed that was sown.
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114 WHAT'S THE STORY
Luxury-contemporary: the two Plein Sud lines have been merged into one. The collection now offers a broader spectrum of clothing, ranging from casual wear to evening robes. Line extensions such as jewellery, footwear, and – a little later – handbags complement the range.
Plein Sud. 1 + 1 = A+ Following the takeover by Italy-based MMB Group, Plein Sud has been tasked with accelerating its development plan under new management and with considerable financial support from its new owner. The brand’s two lines were merged into one in an attempt to strengthen the label as a whole. style in progress met with CEO Gaetano Sallorenzo to talk about his plans to reposition Plein Sud in the luxury-contemporary segment. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photo: Plein Sud
The phone call didn’t come as a surprise. Gaetano Sallorenzo has extensive international management experience due to his previous positions at brands such as Giorgio Armani, Calvin Klein, Replay, Stuart Weitzmann, and – most recently – Giambattista Valli. It’s only natural that the financial backers of MMB Group, who are all from the fashion industry, would have such a highflier on their radar. “Plein Sud captivated me immediately. The brand has an exceptional history. The brand perception has never suffered, even in difficult times. It has a loyal fan base, both among exceptional retailers and consumers. I am really looking forward to taking advantage of this potential and building upon it.” The first strategic step may seem a tad drastic: the two lines Plein Sud and Plein Sud Jeanius 318 style in progress
have been merged. “We are now integrating various aspects of the wardrobe into one strong brand. The approximately 180-piece collection now offers a broader spectrum of fashion, ranging from casual jeans and sweatshirt outfits to evening robes. This reflects the way modern women dress. They love combining pieces. The market is certainly changing significantly.” Sallorenzo stresses that the price is not the decisive factor for a luxury-contemporary brand. “It’s always about the product and its intrinsic value. Women understand the value of the goods they purchase as long as the quality appeals to them.” To ensure said quality, production in Italy is essential: “We cooperate with small manufactories; they are true artists. The fact that our design, marketing, and product teams are able to work with those craftsmen on-location creates the innovation that is so crucial for success. However, innovation is always based on the product and a result of dialogue. Is it possible to wash this beautiful leather jacket one more time to make it more modern? As soon as the next day, one receives a prototype that boasts all the special features ingrained in Plein Sud’s DNA.” Old Strength – New Strength
The brand feels impressively modern due to its strong and feminine – yet never cutesy – look. Remaining relevant for 32 years is an achievement for which founder Fayçal
Amor deserves massive respect. “This heritage is now complemented by a new structure, young talent, and fresh energy,” Sallorenzo says. “We have embarked on a journey to become a lifestyle brand. This season, we have added a jewellery collection. In autumn, we will add a footwear range and a little later a handbag line.” In terms of distribution, the brand has opted for a restrained approach. “Right now, our goals aren’t numbers-driven. It is not our aim to double the number of 150 worldwide retail partners we serve today. Our investors also have long-term plans for the brand. Naturally, we are always happy to grow, but we want to grow in a sensible and correct way.” ACO Modeagentur is Plein Sud’s representative in Germany and Austria. “We perceive Michael Schulz, the MD of ACO Modeagentur, as someone who we can trust completely in terms of our realignment plan,” Sallorenzo gushes. Plein Sud has teamed up with equally established partners in Ianiz Coriza and Fashion Club 70 in Switzerland and Belgium respectively. While the collection is currently on display in the showrooms, Plein Sud will thrust highlights into the limelight of the Fashion Week catwalks in Paris and Milan in September. “This is yet another part of our DNA and will evolve over time,” Sallorenzo says with joyful anticipation.
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116 WHAT'S THE STORY
Courage, concentration, and elegance: Enrico Airoldi, the MD of Paul & Shark, knows what it takes. Jackets by Paul & Shark combine craftsmanship, high-tech, and Italian production expertise.
Paul & Shark. ON COURSE FOR EXPANSION Paul & Sharks’ recipe for success is based on quality, technology, and creativity. The owner family’s passion for the sea and a healthy dose of pioneering spirit have allowed the brand to establish itself as a major player in the sports fashion segment over the last 40 years. MD Enrico Airoldi is hoisting the sales and setting course for expansion yet again. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Paul & Shark
Sailing has always been fascinating. It therefore comes as no surprise that Paul & Shark has dedicated itself to the sport since 1976. The brand is owned by the family business Dama, which is currently run by the third generation in the person of CEO Andrea Dini. The name Paul & Shark derives from an old sailing boat that Paolo, the son of company founder Ludovico, discovered at a sail maker in Maine. The business has specialised in high-end knitwear since the 1920s and has acted as production partner for many renowned Italian ready-to-wear suppliers and French luxury brands. To this day, it produces exclusively in Italy utilising state-of-the-art machinery from Germany and Japan. In 2012, the company installed a 120,000 kWh solar energy system on the roof of its headquarters. It covers 15 percent of the energy demand. 318 style in progress
This blend of history and future technology is what defines Paul & Shark as a brand. The collection for men, women, and children also includes shoes and accessories. The total look principle proves that the brand has long since created its own lifestyle world. The archive offers sufficient inspiration. One of the first products was a water-repellent pullover for sailors. To this day, the brand relies heavily on its knitwear expertise in every collection. Paul & Shark also remains in touch with sailing as a sport. For summer 2019, the label has teamed up with two renowned sailing teams to create two capsule collections. The first pays homage to Chinook, one of the oldest sailing boats to still roam the seven seas. The second is dedicated to the crew of the ultramodern M32 catamaran, whose concept is based on technical excellence. New Markets - Excellent Service
Enrico Airoldi was appointed as MD of Paul & Shark in March 2017 and has been tasked with expansion. “Our focus is on global growth and the development of new markets such as India and Azerbaijan. We currently serve more than 70 export markets. They account for almost 90 percent of our revenue. Europe alone contributes 60 percent to our turnover. Needless to say, our own stores in prime locations in Milan, Paris, New York, London, and Singapore contribute greatly,”
Airoldi says. “We serve 240 mono-brand stores worldwide. Some are run by us and others by franchisees, many of them in China. In January, we opened stores in cities like Tel Aviv and St. Petersburg, as well as corners at Harry Rosen in Toronto, Illum in Copenhagen, Hirmer in Munich, and Van Graaf in Danzig. Our own stores allow us to maintain constant dialogue with consumers, thus improving our service levels anew every day. For example, we offer a line called ‘Always Paul & Shark’, which makes classic pieces available ex stock as carry-overs. 15 years ago, we founded the Paul & Shark Club for our most loyal customers and it now counts 200,000 members,” Airoldi explains. In Germany and Austria, the brand serves more than 130 retail customers, among them shop-in-shop concepts at the likes of KaDeWe. The sales representative is Agentur Thomas Oliviero in Düsseldorf. The Swiss market is covered by Karl Manser Textilagentur. A recent cooperation project with Nick Wooster proves that Paul & Shark is not all about tradition: Wooster individually customised a string of cult jackets from the past. www.paulandshark.it
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Circolo 1901 founder Gennaro Dargenio has every reason to be happy: his collection based on easiness is perfectly in line with the current zeitgeist.
Be it for men or women - comfort and convenience come in a formal, modern silhouette.
Circolo 1901. EVERYTHING EASY Circolo 1901 knows how to interpret ready-to-wear clothing in a modern way: dyed, partially printed jersey fabrics turn the sports jacket into an Easy Jacket and the suit into an Easy Outfit. The look is highly popular. In an interview with style in progress, founder Gennaro Dargenio reveals his plans. Interview: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Circolo 1901
As of this season, Circolo 1901 has hired Heritage Agents as its sales representative in Germany and Austria. What are your goals?
The German market is very important for the brand. Our objective is to consolidate and develop our presence, as well as - above all - the brand awareness and visibility in high-end boutiques and department stores. Together with Heritage Agents, we strive to develop a strong relationship with buyers and retailers in order to inform them in-depth about what the brand stands for, its concept in general, and what makes Circolo 1901 so unique. You cooperate with 1,000 retailers in 17 countries. What can your brand offer retailers today?
Circolo 1901 is a unique project. It is a strong brand that focuses its communication strategy on proud individuals. Circolo, which means “club” in English, actually created a club for true and authentic people who act as testimonials in our advertising campaign. We selected normal men and women who represent and correspond to the brand idea with their attitude, style, and lifestyle. We
strive to establish the same connection with buyers and retailers. We approach those who share our values and objectives. Your brand stands for easiness and your most important piece is the socalled Easy Jacket. Why is comfort such a vital aspect in today’s ready-to-wear market?
The Easy Jacket is the perfect synthesis of our brand essence: a dyed, printed fleece jacket with unique comfort and fit. It adapts to whoever is wearing it instantly. We translated this idea into a lifestyle: the Easy Outfit. A style that suits every occasion, yet never requires one. It’s a real innovation for men and women seeking a classic look without having to forego the comfort of casual clothing. Actually, Circolo 1901 is perfect for both men who normally don’t wear suits and men who are looking for an easy alternative to formal suits. Heritage Agents will also represent your womenswear collection. How does the women’s collection differ from the men’s? What’s the focus?
The womenswear collection of Circolo 1901 is based on the same concept and values. It’s a catalogue that embodies two attitudes. Firstly, it consists of timeless, iconic pieces, reinterpreted in new colours and fits each season. Secondly, it has a “like a boy” approach. It offers Easy Outfits that are in line with our DNA, yet still adapt to trends. The pieces are elegant, modern, and original with contemporary fits - yet always easy. Its Italian roots are essential for Circolo 1901. What are the upsides of producing close to home?
Circolo 1901 may be easy, but it isn’t simple to manufacture. We use fabrics from the casual clothing segment to produce formal and classic items. Innovation and research are our main drivers. For example, we have developed a unique and exclusive cashmere touch effect for fleece fabrics. The entire production chain takes place in-house: design, sourcing, prints, and patterns are developed in our headquarters in Italy. Production then takes place in our own plant in Romania, supervised by our production teams. What are the highlights of your spring/ summer 2019 collection?
We have developed prints for our jersey and piquet items. For men, we have introduced new styles and fabrics such as linen/cotton blends for an extremely light and breezy sports jacket. Then there’s a 4-pocket jacket inspired by military styles, but realised in fleece and piquet, both in plain colours and with prints. We also offer new variants of the Panama jacket, which is a style somewhere between jacket and shirt, with various prints. Another highlight is our range of light, piece-dyed knitwear shirts, which are mostly short-sleeved. They are a perfect match for our sports jackets and trousers. In terms of womenswear, we have introduced new blazer styles in different lengths such as double-breasted variants in plain colours and with prints. Micro pied-de-poule, stripes, and checks are wonderfully suited to our “like a boy” philosophy. Specials such as a pantsuit in Panama style in plain colours or with prints, a sleeveless smoking blazer, and a lightweight trench are additional highlights. style in progress 318
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José Pinto is an influential figure in the international shoe business. Many brands rely on the soles and components manufactured in his production plant. The Lemon Jelly brand is his baby.
Singing in the rain: Lemon Jelly stands for fun on your feet.
Lemon Jelly. LIFE NEEDS LEMONS! Cheerful, positive, and life-affirming - Lemon Jelly is the creation of José Pinto, who ennobled his Portuguese shoe sole manufacturing company by launching the aforementioned brand. The recipe is simple: designs that bring a smile to your lips, buckets of creativity, and the scent of lemons. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Lemon Jelly
Your company enjoys a long history in terms of producing shoe components. How did the launch of a brand come about in 2013?
After 40 years in the footwear business designing and producing soles for the world we decided it was time to sell a product as we imagine it. After five years of hard work and passion, we made our dream a reality. Lemon Jelly is a brand that is designed and produced 100% in Portugal. Portugal is a popular production country. Today, pioneers such as Lemon Jelly are using their know-how and creativity for their own brands. Is Portugal reinventing itself right before our very eyes?
The footwear industry of Portugal has managed to reinvent itself while retaining its know-how in the country. Unlike in other countries, the industry never gave up, which is why we are stronger than ever today. The hard work of an entire industry - or 318 style in progress
even country - has attracted international attention. This helps in terms of reinforcing the quality, innovation level, and creativity of Portuguese products. We need to take advantage of this hype and prove what we stand for. Lemon Jelly is fun, colourful, and vivacious. You paint a very positive image. Please explain your strategy…
We always have the women who wear Lemon Jelly in mind: urban, independent women who have a natural sex appeal. They are happy and glamorous. Sometimes they are a little irreverent, but they have nothing to prove. These women are from all over the world, of every race, of all political persuasions, and of all religions. They are women who love life! We target these women, because they reflect how we feel as a company. That’s how we see the world and that’s what we stand for. We are proud of all the hard work it takes to make this brand come alive. You serve 500 points of sale in 35 countries. What are your plans in terms of growth?
We expect continual double-digit growth in both existing and new markets.
Will you continue to rely on the retail trade, maybe even your own retail operations? Why are stationary retailers so essential for brand building?
Stationary retailers are indeed essential. Maybe one day we will have our own stores?
We really love the retail trade, but it is not our aim to establish a global retail network. We strive to offer consumers an exquisite experience. Strategically speaking, a strong network of multi-brand retailers is our top priority. It should consist of hand-picked partners who share our vision of Lemon Jelly and enable us to be close to our customers. Will you stick to shoes only?
We love celebrating iconic footwear styles by immortalising them in plastic. Our brand is only five years old, yet we have achieved so much. We have a young creative team with many ideas and we have loads of surprises in store for the upcoming seasons! How does one communicate brand values today?
Our most important USPs are quality, innovation, and creativity. These aspects are reflected in our products, as well as in our young, cheeky communication concept. Strategically, we utilise new media channels, events, and our website to communicate our values. What treats can you offer the retail trade?
We offer a pre-order service, for example. We also allow retailers to re-order and exchange goods during the season. In addition, we can supply them with special styles. We take partnerships and close cooperation very seriously. www.lemonjelly.com
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In his capacity as Sales Director, Federico Rosi is in charge of 25 million Euros in annual sales, 40 percent of which are generated abroad.
Autumn (left) or spring (right): modern masculinity defines the Manuel Ritz look.
Manuel Ritz. “WE PLAY WITH ITALIAN STYLE” Manuel Ritz is a self-confident Italian collection with a completely un-Italian name - the menswear range from the Paolini stable presents a fashionable, modern, and playful take on the entry-price level. The brand clearly has big plans. style in progress spoke to Sales Director Federico Rosi. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Manuel Ritz
You’re really giving it a go in the German-speaking countries, aren’t you?
Definitely! In Hinterhofagentur we have chosen a partner of whom we expect to enhance our position in Germany and Austria both quantitatively and - above all - qualitatively. The main focus is on multi-brand retailers. The decision paid off in the first season. We generated more revenue and - most importantly - improved our positioning. The Swiss market is covered from Milan. In Switzerland, we strengthen our cooperation
with an important retailer from season to season, thus generating continual growth. Italian taste at a sensational price-performance ratio - how can Manuel Ritz increase brand awareness among consumers?
In order to increase brand awareness, we invest in communication measures and showcase our collections at the Premium. We try to address consumers primarily via social media and POS marketing. The backing of Paolini Group must be a big help in this respect…
It helps to be Italian when taking your first steps into the market, because it attracts the attention of important players in our industry. Brand image, product quality, and service excellence are crucial. Enjoying the backing of a company with solid roots in terms of production and a strong organisational structure is a fundamental success factor for Manuel Ritz. What makes Manuel Ritz so special?
We play with Italian style and use colours boldly. This makes our items unique and is consistent with the individualistic spirit of our customers. Manuel Ritz allows you to express your personal style in a modern and unconventional way. How do you spoil your retail partners?
We launched a stock programme a few seasons ago. Our customers can re-order and exchange goods via a B2B portal. This allows us to ensure high sales ratios together. The suit is predicted to make a huge comeback. How does one persuade a generation used to t-shirts and jeans to wear suits again?
It’s certainly not easy to persuade young customers to consider suits, but we accept the challenge gladly. Seeing that we re-interpret ready-to-wear fashion ironically and individually, we stand a good chance. A few seasons ago, we added a line that is far less “dressy” to our business and evening suits. This new line is casual, cool, and above all - comfortable. It’s much
easier to wear! Our jersey suits, for example, are very popular in Italy and in our export markets. In the case of our model named “Nuvola” - which means “cloud” - we eliminated all stiffness. The suit is incredibly light, comfortable, soft, and modern.
Are there plans to follow up the mono-brand store in Milan with others - even virtual stores?
Yes, because we received very positive feedback and are eager to multiply it, both in Italy and abroad. We are currently focusing on Munich, where we will open our first store in Germany. Our own online shop will be re-launched early 2019. We take our business relationship with the most important e-retailers very seriously.
What are your plans in terms of export?
Continental Europe is our strength; we’re traditionally well-positioned here. We enjoyed a good start in Russia and Japan. Now we are working on the Chinese market, where we are investing in retail operations with a local partner. style in progress 318
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Willem Wijnen, the CCO of North Sails, focuses on the combination of environmental protection and shopping experience.
Sails manufactured by North Sails are used by participants of both the Volvo Ocean Race and the America’s Cup.
North Sails combines technical innovations from within the sailing sport with an urban lifestyle.
North Sails. FREE THE SEA Following the takeover by Oakley Capital, the sail and sportswear manufacturer North Sails was fundamentally restructured. As part of this process, the apparel collection was completely overhauled. With campaigns such as “Go Beyond Plastic” and the use of new, zero-waste materials, the brand is eager to step up its efforts to protect our oceans.. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: North Sails
Founded in 1957 by American sailor and Olympic champion Lowell North in San Diego, California, North Sails quickly developed into one of the world’s most innovative sail manufacturers. The company issued a license for a textile collection in 1989. In 2014, North Technology Group, the owner of the North Sails brand, was sold to private equity house Oakley Capital. Tomasoni Topsail, the Italy-based licensee for Europe and Asia, was also acquired by Oakley Capital. In Italy, Tomasoni Topsail manages 16 own North Sails stores and 21 franchise shops, as well as own branches in St.Tropez, Barcelona, and Hamburg. Fresh Breeze
In order to freshen up the sail manufacturer’s sportswear collection, North Sails hired a highly experienced crew. In January 2017, Englishman Ben Mears was appointed as Global Creative Director for the textile collection. Prior to this appointment, he worked 318 style in progress
at Churchs, Yves Saint Laurent, Emanuel Ungaro, Jaeger, and as Design Director of Tommy Hilfiger. Since August 2016, Dutchman Willem Wijnen has been responsible for global retail and wholesale expansion in his capacity as Chief Customer Officer. In the past, he was the Chief Marketing Officer of the multi-brand store The Sting. “We are well under way to making the collection more sustainable, step by step. Especially our high-volume bestsellers will be made exclusively of sustainable materials in the future. Our logistics and production partners are constantly developing more environmentally friendly processes to further improve our carbon footprint,” Wijnen explains. In January 2018, TP Sports was named as the sales representative for Germany. “We serve more than 1,000 retail customers in Italy, Spain, France, Germany, The Netherlands, and Australia,” Wijnen adds. The approx. 300-piece lifestyle collection for men and women is on display at the Pitti Uomo in Florence and at the Premium in Berlin. The more technical and sports-oriented NSX collection consists of approx. 50 items in clean designs. A selective high-performance collection named Crew Performance is dedicated to true sailors. Timeless classics such as polo shirts and chinos are available as part of a NOS programme. Active Marine Conservation
The t-shirts - and soon also the sweatshirts - of the Free The Sea capsule collection are
made of Recover Blue, a blend of recycled cotton and PET bottles. One percent of North Sails’ worldwide sales are donated to the UK-based Ocean Family Foundation. The foundation is committed to preserving the biodiversity of our oceans and combats the spread of marine pollution. “Our motto is ‘Go Beyond’, which means that the promotion of innovation and the spirit of discovery are fundamental elements of the North Sails philosophy. We strive to expand our nature conversation efforts, thus taking even more responsibility for the preservation of our planet. Here in our headquarters in Italy, we no longer use PET bottles. We drink filtered tap water from Dopper bottles,” Wijnen reveals. In addition, North Sails supports projects such as A Plastic Planet, an initiative to avoid disposable plastic packaging. The list of current North Sails brand ambassadors includes marine biologist Ocean Ramsey, who dedicates her life to the conservation of Great White Sharks in Hawaii, and underwater photographer Juan Oliphant, the founder of the One Ocean Research & Diving Association. In Italy, the marine biologist Maria Sole Bianco of the World Commission of Protected Areas (WCPA) acts as a brand ambassador. She gives speeches at schools and organises many beach clean-up campaigns. With this in mind, let us Free The Sea from as much plastic waste as possible! www.northsails.com
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Blogger Zura Lindner of Shortstoriesandskirts presents fashion by Airfield.
Airfield CEO Walter Moser and Chief Marketing Officer Sophia Bitter are preparing the brand for the future.
Airfield. A NEW DESIRABILITY The latest trends are already ingrained in Airfield’s fashion DNA: great news for the Austrian brand that has recently made some key adjustments on the way back to success. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Airfield
The look is simultaneously sporty and feminine, with strong colours and the occasional burst of opulence. Jersey-bonded nylon jackets, parkas in fresh silhouettes, and technical materials with playful details are all typical of Airfield’s womenswear, which has stood for these feminine, sporty looks since long before the athleisure trend hit the streets. Out with the Old
After years’ of success, the past five have been rather quiet for the brand from Seewalchen, mainly due to cleaner and more stern fashion trends. Airfield CEO Walter Moser considers these years to have been a time for stock-taking. “We have commissioned a wide market study in order to find out where we are and how consumers view the brand. The results have shown that we must focus on the essence of our brand in order to modernise it for the future.”
Outdoor fashion, blazers, and indoor jackets are the core competence of Airfield, founded in 1994, which has its roots in functional sports and skiwear. Andreas Angerer joined the young Airfield design team as head designer a year ago in order to strengthen these core competences and to streamline the collection. “We went through all company levels right up to public image step by step,” says Moser. Aside from production and logistics, there is a new focus on sales. “Before, salaried employees were responsible for sales. The disadvantage here lies in the isolated display in the showroom,” says Moser. “We now cooperate with sales agencies for Germany. Airfield is a perfect match for their brand portfolios.” The agencies Boumans and Seebach are responsible for the North and the East, respectively. Berning is in charge of North Rhine-Westphalia and Michaelis of Bavaria, Baden-Württemberg, Rhineland-Palatinate and Saarland. “The agents have a different approach and the necessary overview to place our brand in the correct position within the trade.” In other markets such as France and Russia, sales have been changed accordingly. Canada and the United States are to follow. “We want to work with our wholesalers to achieve sales that see Airfield regain its desirability,” says Walter Moser.
An Image – A Goa
Gradually, all Airfield Stores and shop-inshops will be updated to a contemporary store design: with the appeal of a concept store where there is a lot to discover, from fashion to accessories. The new Airfield store in the “Fünf Höfe” in Munich, which opens in July, is a great example. In terms of communication it was also time for some modernisation. “We have been present in social media for several years now and we have strengthened this presence,” says Chief Marketing Officer Sophia Bitter. “Airfield was one of the first labels to take well-known blogger VikyandtheKid on board for the summer campaign one and a half years ago and among the first to book fashion icon Carmen Dell’Orefice for a generational campaign. The credo of our brand is modernity.” Airfield cooperates with bloggers and influencers like Annette Weber from Glamometer and Füsun Lindner from Shortstoriesandskirts. June will see the release of an online corporate blog with a style report, in addition to print campaigns in leading fashion magazines. “It is important to convey the same image across all channels,” says Sophia Bitter. Walter Moser adds: “We want to make sure the product is once again met with the appreciation and desire it deserves.” www.airfield.at style in progress 318
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The Little Sister?
SEIDENFELT. When Freds Bruder launches a new bag collection, the first question that comes to mind is whether this is the little sister. However, Seidenfelt is clearly an influencer-affine label right from the outset. It’s too cool to be cocky, too stylish to stand in the shadow of its brother for even a moment. To this end, the new label has hired an entire design team. Seidenfelt relies on a manufactory approach, which it translates into clean styles for the commercial price segment. The purchase prices for shoppers, bucket bags, cross-bodies, and bowling bags range from 18 to 36 Euros, with a mark-up between 2.7 and 2.8. The base collection consists of 10 designs and is continually updated with up to 10 current trend styles. Seidenfelt entered the German retail market in October 2017. It is currently serving this market exclusively via its own online shop, but the plan is to place the brand at selected retailers after its appearance at the Panorama in July 2018. For now, however, customers such as Conleys have already committed to Seidenfelt. Freds Bruder, Dinslaken/Germany, T 0049.2064.6042121, vertrieb@fredsbruder.de, www.seidenfelt.de
A Nest With Wings
NIÙ. The history of this brand is based on two opposites that link the two founders, the siblings Serena and Bruno Cibischino, in a rather exciting manner. On the one hand, Niù, the name of the Udine-based firm, is based on the Friulian word for “nest”. The brand is clearly proud of its “Made in Italy” pedigree. On the other hand, the 21-strong design team seems magically drawn to the most mysterious places in the world - mostly in Africa - to find inspiration for the coming seasons. The Eyegasm agency has been representing the sophisticated total look collection in Germany and Austria since last January. “We took over Niù when it had 20 customers with the aim of adding 70 to 75 more,” Damir Prins-Juric and Henk Prins, the agency owners, say. The extraordinary cut of the Niù designs, the nonchalance of its styles, the exotic patterns and colours, and the exact fits had convinced them immediately. Niù produces two collections per year within a classic pre-order model. The average purchase price for the summer and winter collections lies at 70 and 75 Euros respectively. The mark-up ranges from 2.7 to 2.8. Niù S.R.L., Udine/Italy, T 0039.0432.526990, info@niu-fashion.it, www.niu-fashion.it
Fair Trade Knitwear From the Andes
KARINFRAIDENRAIJ. The collection of Munich-based designer Karin Fraidenraij immediately reveals her passion for finest camelid wool and sophisticated cuts. What one cannot see is the underlying philosophy. The high-quality llama and alpaca wool is sourced from traditional breeding farms in the highlands of the Andes. Karin Fraidenraij puts the idea of sustainability into practice by producing on-site under socially and ecologically fair conditions. Since 2011, she has been selling her knitwear collection for women via her own web shop, in a studio store in Munich’s “Wagnerstrasse”, and via selected green fashion stores such as Glore. The designer produces one winter collection per year; it consists of approximately 25 items at retail prices between 30 and 300 Euros. In the long term, she intends to participate in trade shows and to acquire new e-retail partners. Her collection is currently available in Germany, Switzerland, and Japan.
Karin Fraidenraij, Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.38898136, sales@ka-fraidenraij.com, www.karinfraidenraij.com
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Nouveau Chic
HIRONAÉ PARIS. When Jennifer Druyer and Emilie Messal introduced their brand Hironaé Paris in January 2015, the heart of the collection was a fine selection of intricately crafted leather designs that focused primarily on the tradition of craftsmanship and the characteristics of the material itself. Over the years, the collection has been expanded considerably and now offers basics such as t-shirts and jeans, as well as suits. Today, Hironaé Paris stands for contemporary French fashion and has positioned itself in the premium market alongside brands such as Anine Bing, Acne Studios, Saint Laurent, and Chloé in more than 10 European countries. The Style Manifest Agency has been representing the brand since the last autumn/winter collection and placed it at retailers such as Anita Hass and Jades. The purchase prices, which start at 32 Euros for a t-shirt and end at 389 Euros for a current bestseller like a jacket made of organic leather, have a mark-up of 2.7. Steve Hermann, the CEO of The Style Manifest Agency, plans to pursue a cautious expansion strategy in Germany. In the long term, he sees Hironaé Paris as a candidate for the standard ranges of contemporary department stores. Hironaé SAS EMJD, Gemenos/France, T 0033.808.151781, emilie@hironae.com, www.hironae.com 318 style in progress
Urban Adventures Do It Yourself HEIMPLANET. This Hamburg-based business is known primarily for its inflatable tents. However, the backpacks of the innovative label are equally impressive. This season, Heimplanet introduces a revised version of its popular Monolith Daypacks. A whole range of improvements make this backpack the ultimate companion for travelling and everyday life. These include a larger laptop compartment, redesigned handles, and new colours and patterns. T-shirts featuring the proven Coolever technology, which ensures that sweat is immediately absorbed and thus removed from the body, are also available in new designs. The fibre combination of cotton, polyester, and spandex guarantees a high wearing comfort. The surface texture, which is 30 percent higher than in conventional shirts, allows particularly fast moisture absorption and dries quicker. Naturally, this proves advantageous for sports and travelling, as the t-shirts can be reused much sooner after washing and hardly crease. Heimplanet, Hamburg/Germany, T +49.40.999995500, info@heimplanet.com, www.heimplanet.com
COSCOON. This Berlin-based natural cosmetics label has been breaking new ground in the industry since 2015. Customers are afforded an opportunity to “self-produce” natural cosmetics without extensive research and shopping. The pretty gift packaging not only contains the exact ingredients for the recipe, but also crucibles, hygiene gloves, labels, and detailed instructions. “We strive to offer everyone an opportunity to mix fresh cosmetics without anything that pollutes the skin and environment,” explains Sonja Steberl, a co-founder of Coscoon. “We believe many people enjoy the DIY angle. And we facilitate that.” Coscoon’s products use organic raw materials and natural ingredients of the highest quality. While selecting the recipes and suppliers, the two founders made sure that the products are free of silicones, parabens, synthetic fragrances, paraffin, and other petroleum derivatives. The oils and butter are from certified organic sources. In addition, none of the formulas use preservatives of any kind. Coscoon Cosmetics, Berlin/Germany, T +49.30.21954969, hello@coscoon.com, www.coscoon.com
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Fresh Catch Arrivederci Michelin Silhouette
BACON CLOTHING. That down is experiencing a revival is not least due to strong silhouettes that were first used in the avant-garde. Bacon Clothing is one the latest new players to enter the fray. The down jackets by the Italian brand impress with comfort, chic, and extraordinary features. The designer duo Andrea Pilato Barrara and Chiara Capitani combine new fits, exciting over-cuts, and innovative proportions with strong colours. The materials are sourced from companies around Milan. The down feathers are certified to European standards. The special blend ratio is responsible for the amazing lightness of the jackets. At a mark-up of 2.6, purchase prices range from 179 to 299 Euros. Permanent orders are possible via a stock list; the minimum order volume is 15 jackets. In addition, Bacon Clothing offers fast re-orders and delivery routes, as well as one collection per year. Customers in the German-speaking markets include Anita Hass Hamburg, Jades Düsseldorf, Zoë Saarbrücken, Ortner Dortmund, Abseits Stuttgart, Reyer Hallein, Diva by Makole Salzburg, and Attitude Verbier. Bacon Clothing, Cernusu sul Naviglio/Italy, T 0039.02.38263654, office@agordat.com, www.baconclothing.com
Wunderkind
AXEL ARIGATO. A new sneaker star is born and how it shines! When insider media channels are just as excited as Vogue, it’s clear that something special is happening. In this case, it’s a label founded by Max Svardh and Albin Johansson in 2014. The initial idea was to offer high-fashion sneakers at a reasonable price. Retail prices range from 180 to 230 Euros. The mark-up for NOS items and fashion styles is 2.4 and 2.6 respectively. The pace is high: there’s a “Drop of the Week” model on Instagram every week. The aim is to avoid seeming old-fashioned in the fast-paced world of social media. The label, which added clothing to its portfolio in 2017, opened its first flagship store, designed by renowned architect Christian Halleröd, in London. This first minimalistic sneaker temple was soon followed by others. Some of them - like the one in Stockholm - were only temporary. Retailers such as Le Bon Marché, Opening Ceremony, Lane Crawford, Harvey Nichols, and Selfridges have already recognised the brand’s potential. The distribution partner for the German-speaking countries is Ben And. Axel Arigato, Stockholm/Sweden, T 0046.76.0515429, wholesale@axelarigato.com, www.axelarigato.com
ROOS+ROOS. The euphoria with which Marion Hoferer of Munich-based agency Modeist speaks about her latest discovery is so contagious that “fresh catch” has two meanings in this case. On the one hand, Hoferer literally “fished” designer Michael Patrick Roos, whose bag manufactory was hidden in a courtyard in Cologne over the last few years, out of nowhere. On the other hand, Roos has been working with a rather unusual material for some time now: Nanai leather. It is salmon leather obtained in a process developed over many years of research. The salmon skins, which are an industrial by-product of certified organic salmon farms, are tanned without using chromium. Roos cooperates with the Bavarian firm Nanai, the only German producer of salmon leather. Roos perceives his preferred material as the perfect substitute for exotic leathers such as ray, snake, ostrich, and alligator. He knows no limits when it comes to processing. Roos has developed his own braiding techniques, utilises washed and oiled leather, and uses coloured skins. Each bag is unique and every model is only manufactured in strictly limited quantities. As of next season, a limited edition will be sold through the Modeist agency. Purchase prices range from 150 to 450 Euros. Hoferer believes these bags are the perfect accessory for demanding customers who enjoy new things, product innovations, and sustainability. Roos+Roos, Cologne/Germany, d7conceptstore@t-online.de, www.roosundroos.eu
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True Luxury Spirit of Milan
MAURIZIO BALDASSARI. The heart of Milan’s fashion world is Brera, an inspiring neighbourhood of small boutiques, galleries, restaurants, and cafés. Brera Essentials by Maurizio Baldassari pay homage to the spirit of this district. The casually elegant “Made in Italy” collection is run by a Milan-based family business that is highly customer-oriented. The NOS menswear, consisting of timeless and modern pieces, is made of materials such as cashmere and antiperspirant, multifunctional merino wool. The latter is also used by the sports industry. The focus is on knitwear such as blazers, sweaters, and cardigans, which are complemented by short coats and sporty blousons. Agentur Moormann, which has a showroom in Düsseldorf, introduced the collection to the German market last season. The average purchase price for jackets and coats from the last winter collection is 350 Euros. Cardigans set you back 198 Euros, while trousers cost 50 Euros. The mark-up is 2.8. Maurizio Baldassari, Milan/Italy, T 0039.02.6596523, lisa@mauriziobaldassari.it, www.mauriziobaldassari.it 318 style in progress
WOMMELSDORFF. Anne Schramm learned how the interplay of tradition and perfection can shape a product during her time at the couture house of Christian Dior. Today, she has turned both aspects into characteristic features of her Wommelsdorff knitwear collection, which combines old craftsmanship with modern innovation. Born in the Ruhr area, the designer founded her label in 2008 and named it after her grandmother Maria Wommelsdorff, who passed on her enthusiasm for traditional handicrafts to her granddaughter. The collection is made of highly exclusive materials processed by German knitters for a small, international customer base including Barney’s New York and Bon Marché Paris. In doing so, Schramm reflects on the original definition of luxury that excludes perpetual availability. As she knows every knitter and her knitting style personally, Schramm knows who is the best choice for each model. At the end, she sews the label into every item herself. This appreciation, the time investment, and attention to detail are present in every piece. Purchase prices for cashmere sweaters and cardigans range from 330 to 410 Euros and from 380 to 850 Euros respectively. Modeagentur Anke Burkhardt, Pahlen/Germany, T 0049.4803.6011, info@ankeburkhardt.de, www.wommelsdorff-berlin.com
Relaxed Contemporary
JC SOPHIE. The collections of Netherlands-based brand JC Sophie convinced Colorful Trade’s Jörg Korfhage instantly with a carefree, feminine, and clear fashion statement that underlines a very modern attitude. JC Sophie’s four collections per year deliver a playful total look that edges ever closer to the actual time of sale due to a split of delivery dates. Since the introduction of the brand in the German market with the autumn/winter 2018 collection, Colorful Trade has managed to win over customers such as 5 Secrets Fashionstore in Hamburg and Baily Diehl. The compact collection consists of 120 to 150 pieces and is clearly structured by theme. At a mark-up of 3.0, retail prices range from 49 Euros for tops to 99 Euros for knitwear. A B2B web shop is currently in the works and will offer customers additional digital services. As a first step, the agency intends to place JC Sophie in boutiques and owner-managed stores. After that, it will target the modern woman and contemporary fashion departments in fashion stores. JC Sophie, AD Doorn/The Netherlands, T 0031.613.947041, info@jcsophie.nl, www.jcsophie.nl
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Greater Not Smaller, Not Equal
Colourful Knitwear
ROSA & ME. Düsseldorf-based Dagmar von Schmaus launched her fashion label Rosa & Me in 2004. She places special emphasis on the comfortable fit of her high-quality garments and combines her cashmere products with silk, wool, micro modal, bamboo, and linen. The collection is inspired by various fashion trends from other countries and the respective production techniques. Rosa & Me strives to surprise with a variety of shapes and colours. The label interprets cashmere with a keen sense of what young women like to wear. This is how high-quality classics turn into new, light, and colourful trend pieces. The designs are characterised by comfortable cuts and modern shapes. Prints, inlays, cool slogans, and eye-catching appliqués adorn the approximately 80 different styles. At a mark-up of 2.7, retail prices range from 139 to 769 Euros for pullovers, cardigans, jogging pants, and scarves. The summer collections also include t-shirts and hot pants. Since the beginning of the year, Rosa & Me enjoys the support of Fashion Logistik GmbH in terms of delivery implementation. The collection can be viewed at the Supreme in Düsseldorf and Munich. Fashion Logistik GmbH, Schönau am Königssee/Germany, T +49.8652.65630.33, a.aschauer@fashion-logistik.com, www.fashion-logistik.com
>A. The name Aksel Lund Svindal stands for many things: Alpine skiing, success, and popularity. Since this spring, the name also stands for an ecologically reconcilable and sustainably manufactured fashion collection. And while we’re discussing names: it’s called “Greater Than A”. In cooperation with renowned fashion designers and product developers, Svindal himself masterminded the creation of a sporty lifestyle collection for men made exclusively of recyclable or compostable materials. To mark the autumn/winter 2018 season, Michael Hoehenberger’s Munich-based agency Sta-yle officially launched the brand and started distribution in the German-speaking market. “I was convinced by the product after the very first meeting in Oslo, not only because of Aksel Lund Svindal, but also because of the design, the qualities, the sustainability aspect, and my good experiences with Scandinavian companies. We were on the same wavelength immediately,” Hoehenberger says. In two collections per year, >A focuses on an uncomplicated, timeless, and up-to-date design language, as well as on a particularly luxurious athleisure look in terms of materials. Average purchase prices range from 20 to 40 Euros for t-shirts and from 100 to 255 Euros for jackets. All prices are subject to a 2.7 mark-up. In its very first order season, >A managed to acquire customers such as a A Better Story in Munich and Jennewein in St. Anton. This is just the beginning… Atulus AS, Oslo/Norway, T 0047.950.24399, marius@greaterthana.no, www.greaterthana.no
For Urban Nomads
VEECOLLECTIVE. Berlin-based designer Lili Radu, who made a name for herself with innovative handbags, has launched a new, independent bag collection. “With VeeCollective we have created a completely new, unique, and very modern product,” Radu says. “The lightness and wearability of the bags are unique in the market; we weave the very robust and waterproof nylon material ourselves.” A typical feature is the geometric design of the quilting, which ensures that the bags are collapsible and lends them a sculptural look. The bags can be used as sports bags, shoppers, and weekenders. The models are available in three sizes and strong colours such as silver, platinum, gold, electric blue, hot red, neon lime, warm yellow, midnight blue, and black. The collection is complemented by a backpack, a Vee Side Bag, and Vee Slides. The latter are summer slippers. A price example: the purchase price for the small bag is 55 Euros and it is sold for 149 Euros in retail. The two collections serve 130 stores worldwide, among them Ludwig Beck, Steffl, and Barney’s Japan. VeeCollective GmbH, Berlin/Germany, T 0049.30.25781367, sales@vee-collective.com, www.vee-collective.com
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Wearable Art
ABSTRACT. Fashion and art truly are the perfect combination. Anna Molteni, the designer and photographer who founded the accessories brand Abstract, is of the same opinion. The scarves and shawls of the label, which is located on the picturesque Lake Como, are exclusively manufactured in Italy and combine craftsmanship with innovative weaving and finishing techniques. Sustainability and a respectful handling of natural resources have always been the top priorities. Molteni’s passion for photography and modern art forms the foundation for Abstract’s extraordinary look. Exclusive multi-stripe photographs look particularly striking on scarves and shawls made of high-quality organic cotton or especially soft linen. In addition to photo prints, Molteni enjoys experimenting with extraordinary material blends and various finishing techniques. Abstract’s collection includes fashionable bandanas made of pure silk, extravagantly pleated scarves, and models featuring exceptional weaves - for both women and men. Purchase prices between 50 and 65 Euros mean that Abstract is at home in the premium segment. The calculation factor stands at 2.8. Alberta Pepe, Milan/Italy, T 0039.393.1373868, albertapepeshowroom@gmail.com, www.am-abstract.it 318 style in progress
The Perfume
AER SCENTS. Modern, complex, and distinctive - Stefan Kehl, a session make-up artist, and Ted Young-Ing, who has worked as an Art Director for brands such as Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Topshop, Brooks England, and Habitat in the past, launched their own perfume label in December 2017. Aer Scents combines their long-standing passion for fragrances, luxury, beauty, handcrafted products, and sustainability in one brand. The two founders create the recipes, look for the ingredients at small suppliers around the globe, and even design and fill the flacons. Aer Scents only uses herbal ingredients and has been awarded a cruelty-free certificate. All products are hand-crafted in Berlin. Most ingredients are organic or were foraged in the wild. The first series consists of the four extraordinary fragrances Nagarmotha, Cade, Amber, and Cedar. Aer Scents is currently available at selected retail partners such as The Store x Soho House Berlin, 10 Corso Como, and Wheadon. The retail price for 30ml of perfume is 120 Euros. Aer Scents, Berlin/Germany, T 0049.178.5012882, aer@aerscents.com, www.aerscents.com
Folkloric Patterns
DEVOTION TWINS. Greece is currently one of the most popular rediscovered tourist destinations. Blue seas, endless sunshine, good food, whitewashed houses, small islands, and light summer dresses - what more could one ask for? The Devotion Twins collection from Athens is inspired by folkloric patterns. One can choose from long and short dresses, wide tops and overalls, and shirts and shorts. The approximately 60 pieces, which are made of silk, viscose, and cotton, are produced in Greece. Accessories will be added next season. The label, which was founded in 2001, has 35 customers in the capital alone and another 60 throughout the country. Purchase prices range from 55 to 85 Euros, while retail prices range from 149 to 269 Euros. Workmanship and quality are first class. Customers in Germany include Baily Diehl, Classico, Typosphäre, Punch & Judy Düsseldorf, Shopfashion Hamburg, and Lemoni Munich. The collection is on display at the Premium in Berlin. Wholesale Company, Athens/Greece, T 0030.210.2619679, info@devotion.gr, www.devotion.gr
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The Shirt for Women
Family Ties
NV-3. Fashionable, piece-dyed stretch pants made of cotton wool form the DNA of the NV-3 brand and its first collection for the spring/summer 2019 season. The label is as pragmatic as its name, but details add the spice. The driving force behind NV-3 is none other than designer Rino Stilli, who developed the elegant, highly fashionable trouser collection, which is manufactured in Italy, together with his two children Valentina and Manuel. The collection, which consists of approx. 20 items, focuses on two main silhouettes, a more commercial high-cut waist, a highly fashionable fit, and - above all - colours. “I was convinced by the interplay of elegance and streetwear, as well as the delicate flair for a well-balanced colour palette. There are currently very few fashionable trousers on the market, even though the jeans market is completely dormant,” says Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz. While the collection is aimed primarily at women, it also offers a small capsule programme for men. Following a successful test run for the autumn/winter season, the D-Tails agency plans to start distributing the brand in German-speaking countries in summer 2019. At a mark-up of 2.7, retail prices range from 69 to 199 Euros. NV-3, Milan/Italy, T 0039.349.3639809, sales@nv-3.com, www.nv-3.com
EDELLE. “Why can’t I have that?” is a question that Hilke Blömeke, the founder of the men’s shirt collection Edward Copper, was asked frequently in the past. “This demand became my personal incentive to create a blouse of the same quality.” This motivation has resulted in Edelle, an entire collection of women’s blouses. Once again, the focus is on modern cuts, the use of high-quality fabrics supplied by European manufacturers, and - last but not least - production within Europe. To achieve optimal wearing comfort, the collection pays great attention to details. The labels that come into contact with the skin have weaved edges, the mother-of-pearl buttons are not too thin, and the blouses boast soft cotton inserts. “When the first female customers started buying Edward Copper shirts in the smallest size available, we implemented our most popular model with female measurements, including a small shark collar featuring removable stiffeners and turned, soft-washed sleeves,” Blömeke explains. That was two years ago. Today, in the fourth season, Edelle also offers tunics, casual oversized styles, and subtle A-shapes made of TwoPly cotton qualities that can sometimes be garment-dyed. Some models are plain, while others sport fine or blocked stripes. The colour palette includes white, light blue, and pink, as well as navy, burned red, khaki, and indigo. Common to all models is the typical simplicity of Edward Copper and its understatement. Purchase prices range from 53 to 99 Euros, while retail prices range from 149 to 279 Euros. So how is Edward Copper itself doing? It’s still performing well at retailers such as Hirmer Studio Munich, Sportiv Kampmann Heidelberg, and Roberto Bauer Lichtenfels. On an international level the brand is listed at the likes of Rialto Living in Palma de Majorca. In Germany, Blömeke distributes both collections herself. Switzerland is covered by Zurich-based agency EinsZweiZweiEins, while Austria is served by Salzburg-based agency Knaus oder Knaus. Edelle, Düsseldorf/Deutschland, T 0049.170.5447676, showroom@edwardcopper.com, www.edwardcopper.com
Wanderlust
ROA. Hiking is experiencing a huge comeback. Studies claim that 70 percent of the German population explore nature on foot regularly. The great outdoors are appealing to everyone - singles, young families, couples, and the so-called Best Agers. Roa, an Italian hiking shoe brand, caters for the needs of mountaineering enthusiasts who value functionality, but also have a flair for aesthetics. All models of the 20-piece unisex collection boast trekking-suitable Vibram soles. In addition, the shoes are made of lightweight materials that are also used in bullet-proof vests, are particularly impact-resistant, and offer a high shear resistance. Roa is listed at stores such as Slam Jam Socialism, KM20 Moscow, Soto Berlin, and Mr Porter. Retail prices range from 250 to 425 Euros. The collection is on display at the Pitti Uomo, as well as during the Fashion Weeks in Milan, Paris, and New York in the respective showrooms of Italian distributer Slam Jam. Among others, Slam Jam also represents the brands Aries, Kappa Kontroll, Napa by Martine Rose, Office, United Standard, and U.P.W.W. Slam Jam, Ferrara/Italy, T 0039.0532.251211, info@slamjam.com, www.roa-hiking.com
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Between ReadyTo-Wear and Casualwear Offline Premiere
BALR. When the two e-commerce experts and football fans Juul Manders and Ralph de Geus launched their leisurewear brand with Netherlands football star Demy de Zeeuw in 2013, they naturally did so in their own web shop only. The launch was orchestrated with loads of star appeal and accompanied by hype on Instagram and the like. As of the upcoming season, BALR will, for the very first time, approach selected stores in the German-speaking markets, represented by Timothy Hoferer from Modeist Men. The agency has showrooms in Munich and Düsseldorf. The brand, which is headquartered in the Netherlands, offers a comprehensive NOS programme to supplement the classic pre-order model. BALR embodies the lifestyle of the international football jet-set. It produces relaxed, sporty leisurewear with reduced logo prints and sophisticated details. The t-shirts, hoodies, sweatpants, sneakers, and caps for women and men are only available in black and white. At a mark-up of 2.7, purchase prices range from 35 Euros for a t-shirt to 66 Euros for sneakers. Trousers cost 62 Euros. BALR, Alkmaar/The Netherlands, T 0031.88.2257368, info@balr.com, www.balr.com 318 style in progress
GAZZARRINI. In January, Gazzarrini’s Italian menswear collection staged its big comeback after a complete re-launch at the Pitti Immagine Uomo in Florence. The brand was taken over by Gruppo GGM Italia in 2017. Shortly after the aforementioned trade show, Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz’s D-Tails agency agreed to become the label’s sales representative for the German-speaking markets. No coincidence, as he explains: “I had been monitoring the brand for quite some time and was completely convinced by its performance at the Pitti. The look is neat and smart, but also appeals to younger customers. The quality is very high due to production facilities in Naples.” Gazzarrini is owned by a family business that operates an old leather factory within a conglomeration of suppliers in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius. The close proximity to other traditional manufactories, including a fabrics manufacturer, is why Gazzarrini can offer its customers maximum flexibility. The brand offers two main collections, two flash programmes, and - for some customers - even a Fine Pezza range (a limited edition of surplus materials with a high mark-up). Marco Ciampalini, who was appointed as Creative Director in 2010, has injected an exciting formal menswear/sportswear twist into the collection. At a mark-up of 2.7 to 2.9, purchase prices range from 55 Euros for shirts to 70 Euros for knitwear. Suits cost between 120 and 140 Euros. Gazzarrini, Milan/Italy, T 0039.081.5109035, info@gazzarrini.com, www.gazzarrini.com
Sustainable Cup To-Go
KAFFEEFORM. During a shopping spree or on the way to work, a quick coffee on the go is automatism for many of us. In Germany alone, 320,000 disposable cups are used every hour. They have a life cycle of a mere 15 minutes. The cups cause bins to overflow and pollute parks and squares. As a rule, they are not made of recycled fibres - trees are felled to aid the production process. Given that most cups are made of plastic, crude oil is needed too. And let’s not forget that plastic lid. Kaffeeform, a Berlin-based label which has been producing cappuccino and espresso cups from recycled coffee grounds since 2012, now also offers a to-go cup that recently received the Red Dot Design Award in the “Best of the Best” category. Characteristic properties of Kaffeeform’s material are the marbled, wood-like surface, the smell of coffee, the long life cycle, and the light weight. The retail price stands at 14.90 Euros. Apart from the fact that coffee tastes terrible in paper cups, the label’s aim is to fight against mountains of garbage and the waste of resources. Kaffeeform UG, Berlin/Germany, mail@kaffeeform.com, www.kaffeeform.com
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The Mastermind’s New Project
EVEN IF. The creative mastermind behind Even IF, a fresh Italian brand, is none other than renowned designer Rino Stilli. After gaining experience in high fashion and success with his brand Novemb3r, Even IF is his new canvas for a clean look that is reduced to the essence of special silhouettes, qualities, and avant-garde cuts. For the spring/summer 2019 season, D-Tails has taken responsibility for sales in the German-speaking market. The agency intends to increase the number of customers from currently 10 to 40 in the medium term. “This is exactly the look that customers, who are struggling to find intellectually implemented and clean styles after the departure of Jil Sander and most Japanese designers, have been looking for,” Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz argues. At a mark-up of 3.0, the purchase prices for blouses range from 55 to 60 Euros. A dress costs approx. 90 Euros, while knitwear items set you back roughly 70 Euros. The two collections per year are produced exclusively in Italy - in a tradition-steeped factory near Venice to be precise. Even IF, Venice/Italy, T 0039.0415.702609, sales@evenif.biz, www.evenif.biz
Quiet Eccentricity
LALO. In her home country of Georgia, Lalo is celebrated as a shooting star among local designers. Her creations are feminine and extravagant. Her colourful and daring designs electrify at first glance. The cuts are avant-garde, yet still very wearable - a fascinating quiet eccentricity. Lalo has a passion for special hand-knitting and manufacturing techniques for coats and jackets, preferably in combination with transparent dresses in bright colours, with batik patterns, or degradé sequins. An exuberant adornment with high-quality deco elements such as feathers, embroidery, and glam buttons lends the glowing pieces trendy opulence. Lalo celebrates the glamour of the pleasure-seeking Roaring Twenties, a style defining era characterised by excess, enjoyment, and emancipation that propagated the image of strong women. The designer injects the ideals of the time, as well as today’s female independence and individuality, into her collection. Her bold and artistic design language internalises the image of a modern, self-confident woman who enjoys attracting attention with extravagant accents. Lalo Cardigans, Tbilisi/Georgia, T 0099.5.579725511, info@lalocardigans.com, www.lalocardigans.com
From Woman to Woman
TANJA HELLMUTH STUDIOS. “Limit everything to the essential, but do not remove the poetry.” Tanja Hellmuth chose this credo of the Japanese Wabi-Sabi doctrine as the guiding principle for her new label. “It is a collection created by a woman for women,” Hellmuth explains. She was responsible for the design department of St. Emile for 18 years. Today, she consults the brand Hessnatur as a CCO in addition to running her own label. Her collection certainly reflects an artistic approach. After all, Hellmuth, who is an award-winning artist, has a diploma in painting, sculpturing, drawing, and design. She focuses on all-season dresses such as brightly coloured silk twill dresses with exclusive prints that can be casually or elegantly enhanced with accessories, uni-coloured shaping jersey dresses, and luxurious sweaters. Purchase prices for the designer dresses, which are manufactured in Hungary and Italy, range from 143 to 286 Euros. Retail prices range from 399 to 799 Euros. Hellmuth has enjoyed success from the outset. The customer list already includes renowned retailers such as Bungalow Stuttgart and Mike Shay Sylt. Hellmuth, Tanja Hellmuth Studios, Mühltal/Germany, T 0049.6151.6290973, jasmin.schut@hellmuth-studios.com, www.hellmuth-studios.com style in progress 318
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The New
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Just chill! If a unisex t-shirt can be justifiably described as a defining element of a season, then fashion is clearly as mellow as it was last in the 1980s. While silhouettes are becoming more relaxed and the demand for comfort in the menswear segment has ended the skinny fit era, sportswear is gaining influence significantly. These trends are literally in-depth in nature, because the qualities and colours have rarely been as important as now for an entire season. Editor: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Manufacturers
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About the Fit
Away from the large comfort and stretch waves, womenswear is remembering its classic roots. It regularly quotes classic menswear in a high-necked and very dressed manner. These quotes meet delicate colours and even more delicate fabrics. This is the exact countermovement to the omnipresent casual trend and easy-wear attitude. Different volumes, avant-garde cuts, and relaxed silhouettes almost make excessive decoration superfluous.
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Roberto Cavalli
Liu Jo
Strenesse
Comma
Pence
Niu
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Freedom of Movement
Antonelli
FTC Cashmere
Superga
Isabelle Desiree Mi-A-Ko, Marc O’Polo Director Division Casual Women, and Stefan Siegel, Marc O’Polo Director Division Casual Men How did you implement your inspirations for spring/summer 2019? The athleisure topic injected the joy of action and movement into casual collections. Today, the wearing comfort, sporty details, and colours are integrated into modern casual looks, combined with all-over prints, and reinterpreted. The key aspect is “freedom of movement”, be it during sport, on the couch, or in business looks. The USP: enhanced day-time looks influenced by sports. Was there a trend that surprised you? Coloured, patterned outerwear, dress potential, and jersey ready-to-wear - all this for women… How important are trends for the industry and how important are they for Marc O’Polo? If one strives to recognise trends and bring them to the sales floor swiftly, one can only lose. There is always someone who’s even faster. But if one takes time for details, the perfect silhouette, and durable materials, one is strong and distinctive as we are.
Windsor
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Athletic Glam
Streetwear meets sportswear meets high fashion attitude‌ Sporty silhouettes are fashionably translated and reinterpreted. Function meets the dynamics of the 1980s and 1990s with neon colours, casual crossover looks, and a hint of provocation.
The View from the Ferris Wheel
Yossi Cohen, Creative Director ADD What can we expect from the spring/summer 2019 season? I believe that spring/summer 2019 is all about our search for a new feel-good factor. We strive to create new values by blending the old and the present to craft a new future. We also discover a new desire for the values of nature, which I call Bio & Technology. What inspired you during your brainstorming sessions? I seek inspiration by imagining that I am an observer sitting in a Ferris wheel, looking at things from different perspectives in order to discover new aspects. This season it’s all about outdoor, nature, and function, but in artful context. The ADD summer collection focuses on the possibilities and evolution of the lightdown topic. What role do fashion trends play in the collection development of ADD? ADD is all about identity and lifestyle. Social trends are important in order to understand our target group and its needs. We enjoy observing fashion trends, but we only harness them if they match the brand philosophy of ADD.
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Peuterey
Blauer USA
FTC Cashmere
Sportalm
Woolrich Outdoor Label
Handstich
RRD
People of Shibuya
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The Trend Matrix
19/91 Lateral Product
Paul & Shark
Parajumpers
Save the Duck
North Sails
Airfield
Andrea Cané, Creative Director Woolrich Which trends are, in your opinion, the strongest and how does Woolrich implement them? This year we decided to reference the 1980s and 1990s. Woolrich has been in business since 1830 and our industry is constantly drawing inspiration from the past. The most important topics are streetwear, logo mania, and genderlessness. Streetwear has its roots in workwear and sportswear. That has always been our design matrix, because we were the outfitters of the men and women who developed the infrastructure of America’s society over the last two centuries. Does the fashion industry really still need trends to generate sales? I don’t think so. The industry needs excitement and brands need to express their respective strengths. They need to communicate with consumers and convey to them what they stand for. I myself, for example, am constantly surfing between our historical archives and the next generation’s attitude, which helps me to gain a clearer perspective for the brand’s direction while remaining faithful to our heritage. The new generation looks at our heritage from a fresh angle, thus reinterpreting it anew every time they wear and stage our brand in a different way.
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A Bunch of Boho
Multicultural influences are paired with meticulously crafted details and urban nonchalance. The Boho trend still prevails. Fringes, stitching, floral prints, and floor-length dresses add a touch of romance to the mix.
Quality over Quantity
Mel Nienaber, Creative Director Marlino Is there a product, colour, or detail one really needs to have next summer? Decoration remains an important topic. Gold and rhinestones finely dosed - set the highlights, while candy colours, large-scale prints, and stripes add a hint of freshness. In terms of qualities, linen is celebrating a huge comeback. Therefore, Silk Sisters not only utilises cotton, silk, and viscose in the new season, but also fine summery linen-jersey. The weather is being freaky, so fashion follows suit. It Peace relies on stylish rain jackets and coats made of coated jersey. They are light, elastic, and waterproof with welded seams. The small collection combines the beautiful with the useful. What are, generally speaking, the strong trends for the spring/ summer 2019 season? The athleisure trend, relaxed dress codes, and the emergence of new working and living environments mean that casual wear, office outfits, and evening wear are merging somewhat. It is therefore clear to us that the creative interplay of outfits will continue. Streetwear meets couture, t-shirts made of silk, blouses with polo collars, army jackets with rhinestones, tailor-made oversize dresses, and tuxedo-style jogging pants - they are comfortable and suitable for everyday use while remaining chic.
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Ivko
Lucky de Luca
Liu Jo
Windsor
Roberto Cavalli
Niu
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Antonelli
Seidenfelt
Odd Molly
Xacus
Yippie Hippie
An An Londree
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Italo-Disco
The 1990s and 1980s are back! Boxy jeans and leather jackets, authentic acid washes on denim, and loads of glamour and colour… Let’s not forget references to the punk movement and metallic shades. More decoration is almost impossible.
The Winning Formula
Marco Marchi, President and Head of Style Liu Jo What’s hot and what’s not in summer 2019? Jeans are, as always, hot. Summer 2019 is no exception. Iconic yet never identical, they are undisputed star of the upcoming season. Their diversity and universality reflect the entire Liu Jo collection: different fits and washes are the key effects that animate and enhance the canvas, thus enriching it and adding value. What topics will be on everybody’s lips this season? Accessories will become even more important for Liu Jo and the fashion industry in general. Our focus is - above all - on the interplay of fashion and accessories. The sportswear topic, reinterpreted with a ‘fashion’ approach, remains extremely trendy. How important are trends for Liu Jo? Trends are important. How can one comprehend the zeitgeist if fashion didn’t have the duty to translate and interpret it? Our winning ‘formula’ is a perfect balance between identity and trend research. Digel Move
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Bik Bok
Lemon Jelly
Replay
Liu Jo
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Casualness Establishes Itself
Schott NYC
Sportalm
Fred GÜtz, Head of Design Drykorn What are the highlights of the spring/summer 2019 season? There are many! Cool Hawaiian themes, new silhouettes, high-class suits, and Western elements - those are the defining aspects of Drykorn’s menswear collection. We have developed a specific print for this collection. It will feature as a common theme in all product groups. Which topics did one have to have an eye on for spring/summer 2019? Generally speaking, we try to keep track of all trends. The important step is to define the right trends for the collection and to add the necessary amount of Drykorn DNA for our customers. Last summer, for instance, we created a new theme titled Drynamic. We injected technicalfunctional materials into ready-to-wear looks and styles. We have expanded this theme for summer 2019. What role do trends really play today? Is it not true that everyone is defining trends of their own? Trends are important, because they are always a breath of fresh air. Not every trend becomes a Drykorn trend, however. Not every trend becomes a bestseller. Nevertheless, we enjoy reacting to trends.
Wrangler
Paul & Shark x Nick Wooster
Postyr
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Streetwear Dandy
The menswear segment has entered a more relaxed phase now that skinny and super skinny fits are in decline. The ready-to-wear collections are loosening up. References to sports and streetwear certainly help in this respect. The relaxed cuts add tension through more volume, especially in trousers.
Comfort is Indispensable
Manuel und Christian Weber, Founder and Designer Weber+Weber What will be really exciting about the spring/summer 2019 season? Very light materials are really exciting! However, almost all these fabrics have stretch qualities, thus offering unprecedented ease and comfort. The summer jacket is a key style. On really hot days, one of our gilets is the best choice for the well-dressed. Even knitwear with sartorial details is now as light as a t-shirt. These are worn instead of shirts under blazers or gilets. If one opts for a shirt, it has to have a stand-up collar. What’s the focal point of your collection? The focal point is on new washes, dyes, and finishes for jackets and vests. The innovation lies primarily in fabrics, but also in the feel of the ready-to-wear pieces. We are dragging the gilet into the limelight. What about trends? Men are searching for special items. Every model tells a story about its origin and exceptional manufacturing processes. This needs to be inconspicuous in the look itself, but should be recognisable in the details. Comfort is indispensable and is a prerequisite. Comfort will prevail in menswear collections.
Alberto
Lardini
Luis Trenker
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Aston Martin by Hackett
Bomboogie
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Easy Like Sunday Morning Floris van Bommel
Weber + Weber
Manuel Ritz
Joop
Dornschild
Regent
Gabriele Pasini
Luigi Lardini, Creative Director Lardini What inspired you for the spring/summer 2019 season? For Lardini’s spring/ summer 2019 collection, I drew inspiration from the imagination and creativity of Renato Zavagli, an Italian illustrator who enjoyed cult status in the 1960s and was also known as René Gruau. The collection also reflects the atmosphere of Saint Tropez with sunny colours such as yellow ochre, orange, red, blue, and orange-green. What are the strong fashion trends and how do you react to them? Today’s strongest trends revolve around wear ability, updating products with extra comfort, and careful attention to details. The most important aspect is the comfort of our outfits. The cuts are no longer tight, but much more relaxed. Instead, refined details enrich the outfit. So trends still have a “raison d’être” within the fashion industry? Yes. If there were no trends, fashion wouldn’t exist. However, I feel that the fashion industry needs to educate consumers. We are losing our good taste. We must convey a clear set of rules.
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The Big Easy
Super soft, washed, and printed jerseys form the epicentre. Wearability, coolness, and vibe: casual looks are defined by relaxed, wide silhouettes, oversize fits, and layering. It’s all about wearing comfort and the softness of materials, as well as the nonchalance of non-colour combinations.
Digitalisation vs. Pause
Guido Östländer, Head of Design Cinque Men Is there an overarching buzzword for spring/ summer 2019? Comfort… Every piece needs to be even more comfortable than it already is. The motto is “Power Stretch”. Which topics do you expect to prevail in spring/ summer 2019? Comfort… The current zeitgeist is characterised by digitisation on the one hand, as well as a willingness to pause on the other. One doesn’t want to fall behind, but one doesn’t want to lose oneself either. Comfort becomes a philosophy of life and will define the next few seasons. Does our industry still need global trends and are they still implementable? Trends are still important for the industry, because people enjoy being attracted and seduced by trends. As soon as trends are advertised, the herd follows suit. We’ll join in if a colour or pattern is hip, as long as the move doesn’t jeopardise our brand.
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1888 Steiner
Begg & Co
Alberto
Bloom
Manuel Ritz
Derek Rose
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Less Dressy
Blaumax
Matthias Garske, Brand Manager 04651/ What are your expectations for the spring/summer 2019 season? Passion, hunger, and a readiness for new things…! Which themes of the season do you find particularly exciting? Easier and casual, less dressy… Generally speaking, which trends are strong enough to succeed? I believe fabric softness and the intrinsic value of the materials used will prevail, coupled with relaxed silhouettes in terms of fittings. In your opinion, how important are trends for our industry today? Trends define a period of time rather than being a purely seasonal phenomenon. Thus, they are indispensable as strategy indicators for the industry.
Marc O’Polo
Better Rich
Lucky de Luca
04651/
Sebago
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Plain White Tee
It’s impossible to reduce a trend to its essence in a more radical manner. Let’s celebrate the comeback of “less is more”: plain shirts, extremely clean looks, tone-in-tone pastels. Eye-catchers are XXL slogans and logo prints in the style of the 1990s. The materials are high-quality and restrained. All hail bright colours, denim shorts, and leather jackets in college style.
Schott NYC
Just Cavalli
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Alpha Studio
People of Shibuya
Edward Copper
Mey Story
Juvia
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Uncompromising Coolness
Joop
Lunaria Cashmere
Zeshan Ahmed (picture) and Eduard Komaretho What is the motto of the spring/summer 2019 season? The motto is: “Back to Basics”. A unisex tee and a unisex hoodie reflect the new way of thinking. Fashion hasn’t been this cool for a while! It is surprising how permanently and naturally classic sports and streetwear topics have established themselves in high fashion. Which strong topics do you expect to prevail? I’d say authentic materials and logos of your favourite brand, as well as wide, unconstructed trouser silhouettes. Also loads of denim, preferably in heavier weights, no longer necessarily with a stretch component, with authentic washes and no longer merely in skinny styles… How powerful are trends today? The industry needs and seeks out trends. On the other hand, there are consumers who move faster and more unpredictably than ever. The willingness to obey commands is waning, while the significance of spontaneous developments outside traditional hierarchies is increasing. New role models who have less affinity to the industry are becoming more influential in terms of development. In contrast, we are seeing an increasing concentration of providers. It’s an exciting fight concerning individuality and fashion!
Phil Petter
Blaumax
Better Rich
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Style groups? Target groups? It’s not easy to categorise today’s female consumers. They are versatile, diverse, and able to distinguish between passion for fashion and consumption awareness. style in progress asked buyers to share the women they envisage while doing their job. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold, Kay Alexander Plonka. Illustration: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler. Photos: Interviewees
“This Is a Lifestyle”
Christiane Lindner’s Zeitgeist store has held its ground in Amberg, a tranquil town in the Upper Palatinate, for 27 years now. 90 percent of her customers are regular customers. “We’re the brand in their eyes, that’s for sure. Stories are important to our customers,” she says. The store stocks pillows from South Africa with a charity background and proudly communicates that Odeeh’s studio is located in Giebelstadt, not in Milan or Paris. “Those who eat consciously, take good care of their body, and are health-conscious are interested in fashion that fits their lifestyle. This is a mindset - a lifestyle.” Zeitgeist customers enjoy updating their seasonal wardrobe with high-quality, durable, fun-loving, colourful, and feminine pieces. “I believe it’s important to convey that our products emphasise value. We don’t sell disposable fashion. We sell items that would complement the piece you bought from us last season.”
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“Desire for a New Look”
In his capacity as Buying Director of P&C Düsseldorf, Vito Santoro is responsible for the fashion claim of the chain’s more than 70 branches. Santoro worked for Closed for many years and made a name for himself with his own store called Identità Italiana in the past. Thus, his appointment is a commitment to trading up by P&C. In addition to shop-in-shop concepts, one of the leading German fashion retailers intends to sharpen its own profile by displaying younger premium brands. “The woman I buy for is versatile, privately and professionally successful, and self-confident. She pays attention to her appearance. I don’t necessarily focus on specific professions or age groups. This woman values the quality, ethics, and design of a product. Brand names are less important than the feeling of being surprised by what she sees. This surprise instils a desire for a new look in her.” style in progress 318
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“Different Residences, Different Styles”
As suggested by its location between popular après ski hotspots, shopping at Sinnesberger Englhaus has a certain holiday feeling about it. “Our typical customer has different residences, which is reflected in her wardrobe. She wears a completely different style in her hometown Hamburg than in Kitzbühel,” says Brigitte Sinnesberger, who has been managing two stores in Kitzbühel with her husband Michael for more than 15 years. “She combines sportiness with elegance. For example, fur is still a topic in a winter resort, while it is becoming increasingly rare in larger cities. A customer who takes care of herself and takes sport seriously is interested in art, lifestyle, design, restaurants, and travelling. She doesn’t mind a bit of sparkle. Our typical customer expresses her status with jewellery and bags by the so-called First Lines. Sinnesberger Englhaus offers figure-conscious customers, who are young at heart and often married with teenage children, a wardrobe with a healthy dose of glamour and decoration - modern, wearable, and casually interpreted.” 318 style in progress
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“Epicurean Through and Through”
Nathalie Nicoletti of Blue Sense in Heidelberg brings a bit of holiday feeling to the university city. “Our Portuguese wines, delicacies, and ceramics from Vista Portuguese attract customers who share our love for the good life.” On Saturdays, the store often turns into a meeting point for little groups who know, advise, and animate each other. “Many of our customers become more courageous with every visit, because they realise that their outfits are complimented.” A consultation always needs to be honest and at eye level. This requires much personal appreciation. “I always see the individual first. In many cases, I only know my customers by first name and know nothing about their social status.” It’s not unusual for a business relationship to turn private. “Some customers have become friends who we enjoy going out for dinner with after a day of shopping. I like to imagine women who are confident in wearing an effortless, sporty-elegant look and who express their appreciation for themselves with clothing.” style in progress 318
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“I Believe in an Excellent Wardrobe”
The Voo Store, located in the backyard of “Oranienstrasse” in Kreuzberg, is a Berlin institution in terms of sneakers and avant-garde designers. “The woman I buy for may seem a little austere at first glance. At second glance, she is a bit clumsy and sexy. Her hair is ruffled at times. She may not be a classic beauty, but she turns heads due to her self-confidence and wit. I see a woman who loves classic combinations and looks, but is not afraid of a topsy-turvy mix,” explains Herbert Hofmann, the Creative Director and Head of Buying at Voo Store. “I firmly believe in assembling a wardrobe that allows you to mix almost everything you own. It’s the result of basing purchase decisions on taste rather than running after every trend. This woman prefers to shop in the store, not online. She thinks long and hard before she buys an item. She hand-picks unique pieces that she keeps forever and still cherishes after years. A curiosity for new things is more important to her than brand image. Such a woman will ask where an item was manufactured. I imagine a woman who enjoys eating well and likes talking about food. She travels a lot - that’s what she spends most of her money on.” 318 style in progress
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“Inspiration and Decision Support”
“The most important thing is that we enjoy ourselves and have fun during the buying process,” says Kathrin Bauer. She manages Magazzin in Graz together with her sister Tini Köck. The 250-square-metre store bridges the gap between sports and fashion. “I always ask myself what could inspire my female customers. Which outfits attract attention?” Be it in the shop window or on the website, special items lure customers into the store. “We mix our price segments: from a Missoni dress for 599 Euros to ballerinas by Tom’s for 69 Euros. This reflects today’s buying behaviour and reduces the reluctance people may feel in terms of entering the store. We strive to make decisions for our customers. They don’t want to search for hours, both online and offline. Our female customers appreciate that we are a place they can trust. They know that everything fits and that they feel comfortable in our store. They are always looking for new favourite pieces and prefer items with interesting background stories. Everybody loves hearing stories that inspire.” style in progress 318
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Ohhh de Cologne inspires its customers with an exquisite range of products spread out over 300 square metres
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s soon as one enters the premises, all stress is left at the door. It feels as if visitors can breathe freely in this light-flooded store with a ceiling height of almost seven metres, floor-to-ceiling windows, and white walls. The special feature is, however, the product range, which can be explored on a small island in the middle. HISTORY AND CRAFTSMANSHIP Nothing feels overloaded, yet there is a lot to see. There is fashion by Sea NY and underwear by Le Slip Francais, but clothing is almost secondary alongside the beauty products. The store stocks facial care products by The Ordinary, food supplements by Oeganics, and vegan nail polish by Nailberry, which provides perfect coverage upon first application. In addition, it showcases delicate jewellery from Sophie by Sophie, exclusive fragrances by Diana Vreeland, and jam in a tube by Meia Dúzia in flavours
Ohhh de Cologne/Cologne.
A loud appearance with a lot of bling is certainly not Gloria Massaro-Conrad and Silvia Philipp’s cup of tea. They launched their concept store Ohhh de Cologne, which specialises in high-quality niche items, in January.
Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Ohhh de Cologne
SILENT LUXURY
Silvia Cristina Machado Philipp and Gloria Massaro-Conrad, the owners of Ohhh de Cologne, fulfilled a dream when they launched their store. “We want our store to stock what we love and what convinces us.”
such as strawberry with port and chilli. KaDeWe is the only other store to stock the latter in Germany. “We brought together everything that excites us and isn’t available on every corner,” Philipp says. The store specialises in niche products that are often sustainable, have a charity background, and a background story that is waiting to be narrated. Perfect examples are the soaps and scented candles by Claus Porto, a manufactory founded in Portugal in 1930. It was re-launched with recyclable packaging sporting motifs from the company archive. Let’s not forget Féret-Parfumer of France, which draws from its 100-year tradition and offers a small organic cosmetics line based on honey. Ohhh de Cologne also showcases a range of interior products including room dividers, mirrors, and vintage carpets, as well as art by Tape That and Patrick Foua. Philipp and Massaro-Conrad have a flair for trends and they have created an adequate forum with Ohhh de Cologne. Philipp was the CEO of an advertising agency specialising in the beauty industry for ten years and has collaborated with brands such as L’Oreal, Henkel, and LVMH. Massaro-Conrad, on the other hand, has distributed high-end niche brands on an international level in the past. Today, both owners are still in the distribution game under the umbrella of Premium Beauty Brands; some of those brands are also stocked by Ohhh de Cologne. AURA AND RANGE Ohhh de Cologne is located in the historic “Spichernhöfe” next to Cologne’s “Stadtgarten”,
in the immediate vicinity of lawyers, consultants, a fitness centre, the Boffi kitchen showroom, and restaurants. This environment promises the perfect clientele for the concept store. Half a year after its grand opening, Ohhh de Cologne already has many regular customers who adore the store’s aura and product range. They are always on the lookout for surprises. For example, Massaro-Conrad and Philipp are considering a cosmetics studio on the upper floor and are planning an online shop. “We strive to avoid being static and to act in line with our needs,” Massaro-Conrad emphasises. “We are cosmopolitan and flexible. It brings us great pleasure to pass on our passion.”
Ohhh de Cologne – Concept Store Spichernstr. 6, 50672 Cologne/Germany www.ohhhdecologne.com Opening: January 2018 Owner and CEO: Gloria Massaro-Conrad, Silivia Cristina Machado Philipp Employees: 4 Sales area: 300 sqm Brands for women: Byredo, Claus Porto, Diana Vreeland, Eau de Couvent, Escentric Molecules, Fountain, Féret Parfumeur, Juicebox, Kosho, Le Slip Français, Meia Dúzia, Nailberry, Niod, Ogaenics, The A-Club, The Ordinary, The Liquid Health, Sea NY, Selahatin, 2787 Parfums, and others… Brands for men: Byredo, Claus Porto, Diana Vreeland, Eau de Couvent, Escentric Molecules, Fountain, Féret Parfumeur, Juicebox, Kosho, Le Slip Français, Meia Dúzia, Niod, Ogaenics, The A-Club, The Ordinary, The Liquid Health, Sea NY, Selahatin, 2787 Parfums, and others… Accessories and interior brands: Degrenne Paris, Frederike von Cranach, Gur, Hibi, Qeeboo, Red Edition, Rizzoli New York, Sophie by Sophie, Thomas Poganitsch, Vintage Carpets, and others… style in progress 318
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Many people doubted that a concept store with a luxurious, hand-picked selection of brands could be successful in Kirchberg in Tyrol. Christoph Pรถll has proved them all wrong. Pictured: the wine bar.
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history as it was written in many winter sports resorts. Founded four generations ago as a humble shoemaking business, the following generations gradually added a little zeitgeist - first sportswear, then footwear. The parental generation of Christoph Pöll divvied up the business between two families. One family branch focuses on sportswear, the other on shoes and fashion. “It was never my plan to become involved in my mother’s company. I initially wanted to stay a year, but I’ve been here for seven already,” says the man who gave Gschwantler a completely new spin. Today, the business has twenty employees in four stores in Kirchberg in Tyrol: the concept store, the shoe shop, the Warehouse off-price concept, and a Closed store. CONTACT POINTS BEYOND FASHION It turns out that his passion for wine was the decisive turning point. The concept store in Kirchberg boasts an adjoining wine bar, which has already earned an excellent, independ-
Gschwantler/Kirchberg.
Without making much noise, Gschwantler has established itself in Kirchberg, Kitzbühel, and Innsbruck. The focal point is the concept store in Kirchberg in Tyrol, in which Christoph Pöll relies on bold brand decisions. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Gschwantler
THE IMPOSSIBLE POSSIBLE
ent reputation. Both in terms of wine and fashion, Pöll defies comparability. “It’s important to offer things that are not available elsewhere, things that convince with quality rather than names,” the entrepreneur explains. There was no alternative to occupying a niche in the fashion segment. Only a few kilometres away from the glamorous village Kitzbühel, many First Lines are already blocked by competitors. “I really enjoy discovering new brands that aren’t available in our region yet.” Moving from one insider tip to the next, constantly researching, and always a step ahead of the pack - Pöll manages this balancing act in a surprisingly quiet manner. His work is reflected, fast, and consistent. The most astonishing aspect: “In many cases, we don’t even have to explain much when we introduce a new brand. Our customers often already know about it.” Pöll is aware of how fortunate he is to have established ties with regular customers who are just as passionate about finding new pearls as he is. THE OUTPOSTS AND THE VISION Gschwantler expanded its reach by adding stores in Innsbruck and Kitzbühel to its portfolio, always aware how important it is to stay true to its own roots. “I’ve come to realise that we really need to retain the Gschwantler philosophy.” This task is easiest at home, where customers not only pop in to buy clothing and/or fine shoes. “For many, a glass of wine or an espresso at our bar is an integral part of a sophisticated après-ski experience.” Early delivery dates are essential for a strong winter season. “Our spring starts in December,” Pöll muses. The fashion enthusiast is particularly impressed by designers who resist the devaluation spiral. “The anniversary capsule collection by Proenza Shouler is an excellent example. It consists of reinterpreted highlights from the brand’s historical archives.”
With this in mind, Pöll is currently working on a brand that translates the spirit of the region into fashion. “Our customers are looking for something unique that they can take back home after spending their holidays here.” Now that sounds interesting, doesn’t it?
He dives for pearls: Christoph Pöll is eager to maintain Gschwantler as a vehicle for his vision of the extraordinary.
Gschwantler Baderstrasse 2 6365 Kirchberg in Tyrol/Austria www.gschwantler.com Opening: 2011 (concept store) Owners: Gschwantler-Pöll family Employees: 20 Sales area: approx. 750 sqm (6 branches) Brands for women: Alanui, Alexa Chung, Alyx, Antonia Zander, Bella Freud, Cambio, Christian Wijnants, Closed, Dorothee Schumacher, Ellery, Faith Connextion, Frame, Golden Goose Deluxe Brand, Jacquemus, JW Anderson, Kenzo, Marni, Paige, Partow, Proenza Shouler, R13, RTA, Seductive, The Elder Statesman, Thom Brown, Vilshenko, Vivetta, Zimmermann Brands for men: AMI, Alyx, Bertoni 1949, Canada Goose, Closed , Faith Connextion, Harris Wharf London, M. Cohen, Missoni, Orlebar Brown, P.O.A.N., R13, Rick Owens, Santagniello, Seductive, The Elder Statesmen, Valstar Shoe brands: Alden, Astorfelx, Barbanera, Doratheymur, Golden Goose Deluxe Brand, Francesco Russo, Kennel & Schmenger, Jimmy Choo, Ludwig Reiter, Nicolas Kirkwood, Officine Creative, Rupert Sanderson, Sanai, Strategia, Stuart Weitzman, Tabitha Simmons, Truman´s, UGG, Unützer Accessories brands: A Lab On Fire, Baobab, Culti, Elena Ghisellini, Fornasetti, JW Anderson, Luscious Lips, M. Cohen, Mühlbauer, Nick Fouquet, Nomanclature, Proenza Schouler, TeNeues, TFK Perfumes, Tom Dixon, Stiebich & Rieth, s’oud, Valextra style in progress 318
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Kevin in the Woods is the outdoor specialist in Zurich; it strives to combine style and function skilfully.
R Kevin in the Woods/Zurich.
Marco Karim El Haddachi hit the mark with his idea of combining fashion and function. His customers love the mix of cool brands with an urban design approach and outdoor performance. As a location, he chose Zurich’s new trend district “Europaallee”, which is close to the nightlife district “Langstrasse”.
Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Kevin in the Woods
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hineland-born Marco Karim El Haddachi has been living in Switzerland since 2006. At first, the business graduate worked for an international fashion group from Germany and local fashion suppliers before opening his own store in 2015. He opted for a 180-square-metre shop in the new “Europaallee” district. The upcoming 80,000-square-metre area connects the nightlife district with the city centre and the main train station. It is within walking distance of the famous “Bahnhofstrasse”. The aforementioned “Europaallee” district combines hotels, restaurants, offices, universities, retailers, and approximately 400 apartments. Companies such as Google, UBS, Leonteq, and Credit Suisse have recently relocated their offices to the new area. When the district is completed in 2020, it will act as a new centre of life for approximately 8,000 employees and 5,000 students.
URBAN MEETS NATURE “As soon as you leave the house and are active outdoors - be it on your way to work on your bike, walking the dog in the park, meeting friends at the lake, or heading into the mountains - you want your clothing to offer an added value in terms of function, even within an urban area. However, you also don’t want it to be as colourful and sporty as the high-performance garments intended for use in the high-Alpine regions. The key words are multi-functionality and style. Our customers prefer a clean and modern look that is also sporty and casual. They want clothing that allows them to travel comfortably, while still being well-dressed. The jeans and chinos by Alchemy Equip-
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ment are an excellent example: they feature a 3xDry coating developed by Schoeller and thus repel water and dirt while remaining light and breathable. They are not only practical, but also fit perfectly and look great,” Marco Karim El Haddachi explains. He came up with the design for the store interior himself within two days using a free 3D architecture programme downloaded from the Internet. To implement his ideas, he teamed up with a local joinery. Stained spruce wood underlines the outdoor character, while product carriers with integrated LED lights reflect the modernity and functionality of the concept. An absolute highlight is the wooden pergola, also made of stained solid spruce, which looks particularly spectacular in this room with a ceiling height of 4 metres. “The ambivalence of city and nature, as well as the contrast created by concrete and wood, reflect our concept perfectly. We made the premises a little more accessible by adding contemporary plants,” Marco Karim El Haddachi adds. By the way, the name of the store is not
based on the films “Kevin Home Alone” or “The Cabin in the Woods”, but stands for sophisticated looks in a functional fashion context. The name Kevin originates from the Irish language and means something like “grace from birth”.
Kevin in the Woods Europaallee, Lagerstrasse 82 Zurich/Switzerland www.kevininthewoods.com Opening: 2015 Owner: Marco Karim El Haddachi Employees: 2 Sales area: 165 sqm Brands: And Wander, Alchemy Equipment, Allterrain, Armor Lux, Bellroy, C6, Caputo & Co., Eastlogue, Ecoalf, Halo, Heimplanet, Herno, Hestra, Isaora, Mission Workshop, Mikia, Norse Projects, Outerknown, Peak Performance, Penfield, Snow Peak, Solstice, Topo Designs, Veja, We Norwegians, Welter Shelter
Wood, concrete, and plants reflect the diversified store concept.
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The store’s interior is a mix of Scandinavian effortlessness and British understatement.
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Mats Klingberg prefers items of timeless beauty, which is why his style is more classical than modern.
Trunk Clothiers/Zurich.
With his Trunk stores in London, his shopin-shop concepts in three Lane Crawford department stores in Hong Kong, and his online shop, the Swede Mats Klingberg is setting new standards in the world of contemporary menswear. In May, he opened his latest store on the so-called “Gold Coast” of Lake Zurich, thus virtually picking up his target group at their house and office doors. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Trunk Clothiers
LAKESIDE STORE
t’s quite amazing what a single store can do. Ever since the Swede Mats Klingberg opened Trunk Clothiers in London’s “Chiltern Street” in September 2010, many consider him to be the new godfather of menswear. Trunk Clothiers offers its customers modern classics of the highest quality from all over the world. The presentation and combination convey a skilfully restrained style and lightness. In addition to suits, coats, chinos, shirts, and shoes, the product range also includes fragrances, bags, and eyewear to match the respective looks. Trunk Clothiers now even boasts its own collection consisting of basics for all seasons. The target audience are men, aged between 35 and 55, who travel a lot, work in senior positions in global corporations, or run their own businesses - often in the creative industries. Klingberg didn’t earn his reputation by chance. He studied Fashion Merchandising Management at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, obtained a MSc in Business and Economics in Sweden, and worked for some of the world’s leading fashion tailors, as well as in Zurich’s hotel management industry. THE SUNNY SIDE OF THE LAKE After 20 years of absence, he decided to return to the epicentre of the Swiss economic and financial world. “Zurich is a great city. Switzerland is a beautiful country with an abundance of nature and a very international population,” Klingberg says. The location of the new store, about halfway between “Seebad Utoquai” and the “Chinagarten”, is quite deliberately a little away from the large shopping and business areas. “This district is characterised by a slower pace and customers are thus in less of a hurry than elsewhere. The area is currently experiencing significant change. We are in
excellent company. The new Monocle project is unfolding right next door. It will consist of a shop, a café, and a bar,” Klingberg explains. He works hard to maintain his reputation as a first-class buyer and curator. He and his team travel to the Pitti Uomo in Florence every season; he also visits the Capsule and the MAN in Paris. He sometimes also checks out other trade shows in cities such as New York, Berlin, or London. The selected brands have a special background story in common. New additions for the coming seasons include De Bonne Facture and Paraboots from France, Perfumer H Fragrances from the UK, Fujito from Japan, leather accessories by PB0110 from Germany, and Söder Seifen from Switzerland. “Quality, design, and materials are the decisive factors. But above all, the story and the people behind a company are much more important than the brand itself. Right now, De Bonne Facture is one of my favourites. Unlike others, they are very transparent about where their clothes are manufactured. They even state the companies that produced the fabrics on the labels.” Asked if he ever considered opening a store for women, Klingberg answers: “I think about it every day, mainly because I have been asked to do just that more often lately. But to be honest, we would need to add an entire additional department to our team. There are no such plans at the moment.”
Trunk Clothiers Dufourstrasse 90 Zurich/Switzerland www.trunkclothiers.com Opening: May 2018 Owner: Mats Klingberg Store manager: Cedric Wessner Employees: 3 Sales area: 65 sqm Brands: Aspesi, Boglioli, Camoshita, Common Projects, Gitman, Incotex, Lardini, Ludwig Reiter, Paraboot, The Gigi, Trunk Clothiers, and many more… style in progress 318
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A white cube for brands and their presentation: the Parisian architecture studio L’Atelier HA opted for a more subdued design quite deliberately.
T Nous/Paris.
Colette is dead - long live Nous! Not far from the old store, former employees of the Parisian cult shop on Rue Cambon have launched a new retail concept for men that combines streetwear, luxury, and technology. Text: Quynh Tran. Photos: Nous
THE ERA OF NOUS BEGINS
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he end of an era - there is no better way to describe the closure of the Parisian concept store Colette, which was an international fixture and a pioneer of innovative retail concepts for decades. Founder Colette Rousseaux retired last December and her daughter and successor Sarah Andelman, until recently the Creative Director of Colette, decided to enter the consulting business by launching her new project Just An Idea. The old cult store was, however, so sorely missed that a loyal European Colette customer is rumoured to have invested in a quasi-successor. Just in time for the men’s fashion week - and just a few weeks after Colette’s closure - a new concept store called Nous (in English: We) opened its doors in January 2018. The store is managed by former Colette employees. At the helm are Sébastien Chapelle, who was responsible for Colette’s watch range and technology department for fourteen years, and Marvin Dein, who spent nine years curating the streetwear section. Given the expertise of the aforementioned founders, the new concept is primarily aimed at men, but a large part of the product range is quite unisex-suitable. Defined by exposed concrete, stainless steel, and black interiors, the 150-square-metre store is designed to resemble a white cube. The design was contributed by the Parisian architecture agency L’Atelier HA.
WELL-KNOWN CONCEPT AND INDIVIDUAL HANDWRITING Despite a sharper selection, Colette is clearly the blueprint. The sportswear-centred range includes both high-end luxury items and affordable souvenirs. Collections by well-known brands such as Nike and Balenciaga are showcased next to newcomers like Rokit of LA. One finds special editions by Converse and Vans, as well as Casio watches for 100 Euros right next to special models by Rolex for 51,000 Euros. The store also stocks culinary souvenirs such as champagne with cannabis flavour, indie magazines, mobile phone cases, and cameras, as well as brands that were transferred from Colette. The latter include shades by Thierry Lasry and Illesteva, candles by Mizensir, and jewellery by Eyefunny. Fashion and lifestyle enthusiasts seem to have been waiting for this store. The first customers formed an orderly queue during the soft-opening in order to be part of the grand opening, which was marked by the launch of the OnePlus 5T Android smart phone. Nous has not only revitalised the Colette concept, but also reflects the zeitgeist with special editions and its focus on sportswear. Former Colette customers may find that more than just the concept and brands seem familiar: many employees of the old store have found a new home here - from sales assistants to security guards. In short: things have largely remained the same despite being new, both on a conceptual and very personal level.
Nous Paris 48 Rue Cambon, 75001 Paris/France Opening: 8 January 2018 Managing directors: Sébastien Chapelle, Marvin Dein Sales area: 150 sqm Brands: Balenciaga, Billionaire Boys Club, Born x Raised, Casio, Converse, Eyecandy, Illesteva, Leica, Mizensir, Neighborhood, Nike, Rokit, Rolex, Rozoy & Picot, Sony, Stampd, The Skaterroom, Thierry Lasry, Vans
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Nous is seen as the legitimate heir of Colette. This is hardly surprising given that the owners used to be leading employees at the former cult store.
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Those who visit Du Nord in Oldenburg feel at home immediately and appreciate the hand-picked product range.
T Du Nord/Oldenburg.
A veritable top-seller among the brands stocked by Du Nord, you ask? There is no such thing. Instead, Du Nord impresses with a welcoming atmosphere and a product mix that thrills its customers. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Du Nord
A QUESTION OF PERSONALITY
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here’s a huge construction site right in front of the store’s door. The “Wassenplatz” has been undergoing extensive rebuilding for quite some time. “Usually that’s a big drawback for a fashion store, but amazingly we have not suffered any losses,” says Sandra Denkena. In 2015, she decided to take a bit of a risk by relocating Du Nord from the hidden “Passage Herbartgang” to this more central location, thus making Du Nord more visible. This step has, however, paid off 100%. INTO THE LIMELIGHT Du Nord was launched by Helga Denkena, who is Sandra Denkena’s mother-in-law, in 1972. Back then, it stocked exclusive brands such as Les Copains and Aigner. In 1999, Sandra Denkena took over the business in the tranquil city of Oldenburg. She modernised the store, adapted the product range, and restructured the team. “It is important
to me that my team consists of a healthy blend of young and older staff. My youngest employee is 20, the oldest is 72,” Sandra Denkena reveals. “It is inspiring to see how the different generations work together. That certainly contributes to our success.” Every customer is always happy to heed the advice of the employees. Du Nord relies heavily on personality and individual advice. The 330-square-metre store’s design is modern and warm. It features concrete, wooden floors, and a cosy yellow sofa in front of a brass wall. 110 square metres of the store are, however, occupied by a Closed franchise
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store, which Sandra Denkena opened at the same time due to her long-standing relationship with the brand. It is the perfect solution, because the premises would have been too big for Du Nord alone and Closed appeals to a broader audience. In addition, Du Nord offers an exclusive brand mix including many German collections such as Odeeh. “Both the brand’s fashion and the collaboration with its designers are wonderful,” Sandra Denkena gushes. “I can say the same about Talbot Runhof, Gabriele Frantzen, and my agents. I need to establish a good working relationship with the people behind the collections. At the end of the day, that’s what makes our store successful, because it means that my employees and I believe in what we’re selling.” The same applies to the leather collections Stouls and Utzon, the knitwear labels Suzusan and Wommelsdorff, and the more commercial Roqa collection. “Every single customer leaves our store with a very individual outfit,” Sandra Denkena stresses. “It can be a combination of a silk blouse by
Casper Schandorff beweist mit Project 4 ein Gespür für Trends.
Lareida and a pedal pusher by Closed. Maybe add a jacket by Odeeh and shoes by Jil Sander Navy. Only recently, a customer told me that she loves being able to buy all that in a single store. In Berlin, she’d have to visit dozens of stores.”
“We strive to spoil our customers,” says Sandra Denkena, the owner of Du Nord.
Du Nord Heiligengeistwall 11, 26122 Oldenburg/Germany www.du-nord.com First opening: July 1972 Relaunch after move: July 2015 Owner: Sandra Denkena Employees: 12 Sales area: 330 sqm, of which 110 sqm Closed franchise shop-in-shop Brands for women: Closed, Etro, Gabriele Frantzen, Herno, Jil Sander Navy, Lareida, Lili Radu, Max Mara, Marjana von Berlepsch, Massimo Palomba, Odeeh, Olvis, Roqa, Suzusan, Stouls, Talbot Runhof, Utzon, Wommelsdorff, Yves Salomon Accessories brands: Bois, Casamorati, Compagnie de Provence, Dr. Bronners, Iphoria, Kaell, Le Cord, The Merchant of Venice, Velvet Sock’s, Voluspa style in progress 318
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A happy liaison: Andrea Weindl is in a relationship with the interior designer of her two stores and is soon to be married.
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Andrea Weindl has no interest in chasing trends; she wants to create independent styles.
Zeitlos/Rottach-Egern, Munich.
From Lake Tegernsee to Munich: Andrea Weindl’s Zeitlos boutiques focus on bohemian fashion, favourite pieces, and a healthy dose of deceleration. Text: Veronika Zangl. Photos: Zeitlos
FOREVER
ho has been tampering with the clock? At Zeitlos, located next to “Glockenbach” in Munich’s rather posh city centre, the culprit is clearly Andrea Weindl. This is the young entrepreneur’s second store within a few years. The first Zeitlos store opened its doors in 2015 on Lake Tegernsee, in the tranquil village of Rottach-Egern. When asked about the reasons for the location, Weindl replied mischievously: “Because I’m a native.” In fact, Weindl, who originally studied marketing and business administration, had the vision for Zeitlos in her head for quite some time. Even the name was already set in stone when premises became available. As soon as Weindl heard about it, it was clear: “I had to have it. This is my chance.” LUCK IS… Slow Fashion has long since established itself as a buzzword and is used excessively at times. Weindl can only smile. In fact, her fashion concept doesn’t flirt with the term in its usual form. Instead, the motivated entrepreneur relies on actual deceleration. “My goal is to offer timeless fashion for every age group,” Weindl explains. Her target audience is very diverse. It ranges from a young 20-year-old who likes to dress in a romantic-purist manner to an 80-year-old with firm ideas. It is important to Weindl that her customers can find favourite pieces. That is, clothing that will bring joy to its owner for a very long time. “It should be a companion that you still see as a beautiful piece ten years in,” Weindl gushes and adds: “I think that’s wonderful.” At the same time, the timelessness also creates divergent combination possibilities. This is precisely the point Zeitlos strives to make by promoting consciousness. Fashion doesn’t need to be fast-paced to provide fun and enjoyment. The main thing is that one feels comfortable. “I now also stock home accessories and gifts. I am very diversified.”
HYGGE IN BAVARIAN The charm of Zeitlos is also defined by its penchant for Scandinavia, both on the shores of Lake Tegernsee and the Glockenbach. This is not only due to the collections, which are mostly brands like Noa Noa of Denmark, by TiMo of Norway, and Odd Molly of Sweden. Finally, Zeitlos now also offers fashion by local labels such as Sorgenfri Sylt. Weindl pays great attention to detail. This is also reflected in the design concept of the stores. The design was realised by Scope 3’s team of interior designers and focuses primarily on natural materials - with great success! “The dialogue between regional reclaimed wood and feminine, romantic clothing is a great combination,” Weindl says with enthusiasm. In fact, the dark wood, which stands in stark contrast to the open space of the sales floor, creates a rural Bavarian touch. However, there’s always that hint of Scandinavia. The keyword is Inga Lindström. Weindl is now in a relationship with her interior designer. Thus, the next expansion step is on the cards. However, it is private in nature and will take place in front of a wedding altar.
Zeitlos Tegernsee/Glockenbach Owner: Andrea Weindl Opening: 2015 in Rottach-Egern, 2017 in Munich Employees: 3 Sales area: 85 sqm in Rottach-Egern, 25 sqm in Munich Brands: by TiMo, Ivko, Moscow, Mos Mosh, Noa Noa, Odd Molly, Penn & Ink, Sorgenfri Sylt, 10Days Accessories brands: Beck Söndergaard, Bloomingville, Fineline style in progress 318
168 EDITOR'S LETTER /// ABOUT US
Publisher, editorial office, advertising department and owner UCM-Verlag B2B Media GmbH & Co KG Salzweg 17, 5081 Salzburg-Anif Austria T 0043.6246.89 79 99 F 0043.6246.89 79 89 office@ucm-verlag.at www.ucm-verlag.at
Viva l'Italia
Management Stephan Huber Nicolaus Zott
Viva l’Italia, l’Italia che lavora, l’Italia che si dispera, l’Italia che si innamora, l’Italia metà dovere e metà fortuna, viva l’Italia, l’Italia sulla luna.
Editors-in-chief Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Martina Müllner-Seybold martina.muellner@ucm-verlag.at
(Francesco de Gregori, 1979)
When the Squadra Azzura lost the play-offs against Sweden in November 2017, the unthink able fact that the World Cup will take place without Italy was perceived as a watershed moment with enormous symbolic power. Surely those who remained unmoved by the tears of Gianluigi Buffon have no heart, but the tears also proved that this great football nation needs a real, honest, and rigorous fresh start. Pars pro toto! Now that the World Cup has started, it still seems unthinkable that Italy is not a part of it. However, Europe now has other reasons to monitor the developments in the country, that evokes desire and love in so many of us, with concern. This is a nation that has taught us all so much about life, creativity, food, and style, yet also about aberrations and grotesque wastefulness - not only in terms of money and resources, but also of an abundance of talent. At the same time, Italy is a prime example of a lack of reliable political structures. I tend to think that the phenomenal Italian talent for improvisation, which forms the foundation of the country’s admired creative potential, was ultimately born out of that absence - a natural and necessary evolutionary adjustment. It is not my ambition to make a grand statement, but when one has worked as long in and with the fashion industry as I have - and as many of you have, dear readers - then one most likely has de318 style in progress
veloped a different, deeper, and more respectful relationship with Italy. The country justifiably and unwaveringly plays a special role in our fashion world. This was proved yet again over the last few days in Florence and Milan. There are so many wonderful people one thinks about while hearing and reading the latest headlines. These headlines are not only full of concern for recent social and economic developments, but also full of arrogance. While our current concerns certainly aren’t new, they catch Italy and Europe in significantly more delicate economic and geopolitical times than 5 or 10 years ago. The mindset has changed and paved the way for political change that not only divides Europe as a whole, but - above all - the societies of individual countries. But one must never forget that this political change is the result of free, democratic elections. The same applies to Italy. Perceiving the result as undesir able or disquieting, mainly because it has heaved potentially destructive powers into positions of responsibility, is certainly a legitimate opinion, but it isn’t a root cause analysis. Italy doesn’t need self-righteousness, it needs optimism and trust. That’s what friends are for, especially when the going gets tough. At the end of the day, Europe needs Italy. And Italy needs Europe. Yours truly, Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at
Art direction/production Elisabeth Prock-Huber elisabeth@ucm-verlag.at Contributing writers Petrina Engelke Isabel Faiss Ina Köhler Kay Alexander Plonka Nicoletta Schaper Quynh Tran Veronika Zangl Illustrator Claudia Meitert Image editor Johannes Hemetsberger Advertising director Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Publisher’s assistant, distribution Sigrid Staber sigrid.staber@ucm-verlag.at Christina Hörbiger christina.hoerbiger@ucm-verlag.at English translations Manfred Thurner Printing sandlerprint&packaging 3671 Marbach, Austria Printing coordinator Manfred Reitenbach
Next issue 16 October 2018
Spring/Summer 2018 Shaneke, Dani, Florence and Britt Tenerife
