#2/2020
“Fashion is Art“ Endless
Cre-ART-ivity. Why We Need the Radicalism of Art. The Season That Changed Everything. A Digital Bazaar of Future Ideas. Dries van Noten. When the Silent One Raises His Voice.
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EDITORIAL
Cover photo: Endless
The Season That Changed Everything Welcome to these lines. A final editorial meeting took place shortly before the shutdown – a magazine titled “Art & Fashion” was as good as finished. That was the moment everything changed. The astonishing thing is that very little of what was already written has lost relevance during the coronavirus pandemic. As the “central organ of optimism”, as Stephan Huber puts it, we were always committed to ensuring that the first post-corona style in progress edition did not turn into a swan song. That is why we have chosen not to go “back to normal”, but “back to better”. We used the (supposedly) quiet weeks to do our homework. style in progress has invested heavily in distribution and we are proud that this magazine now reaches its target group, people and brands who advance ideas in the upscale premium segment, even more precisely. We are truly grateful to be working for and with precisely this target group, more than ever. style in progress is a community of values – this claim, too, has been proven true.
Ruby Hotels x style in progress
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During the “magazine-free” phase , we shattered www.style-in-progress.com traffic records and our Facebook page (www.facebook.com/styleinprogress online) played host to many lively discussions. The digital communication turbo that has helped so many retailers navigate safely through these uncertain times has also impacted us. You may be pleased to hear that style in progress will remain a loyal companion between issues – via newsletter. Simply visit www.style-in-progress.com/newsletter to subscribe. You can look forward to enjoying an issue full of exciting stories that illustrate what needs to move to the very top of the priorities list in the season that changed everything: creativity. Anything that is not creative has no value, and thus no future. A system-relevant factor that triggers creativity is art. A surprising, inspiring, and ever more relevant bridge that we attempt to build in this issue. After all, to paraphrase our cover star Endless: “Fashion is art.” Enjoy your read! Your style in progress team
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109 Devoted to You Greek brand Devotion Twins on the path to success
012 RIGHT NOW 068 WANT IT
110 A New World The horizons fashion opens up for art
The Season That Changed Everything
112 Cashmere Poetry Pin 1876 by Botto Giuseppe weaves dreams of cashmere
THE LONGVIEW 078 “Magazines Are Our Bibles, Shops Our Churches, and Celebrities Our Gods” London street art artist Endless discusses modern gods and idols.
WHAT’S THE STORY 084 CRE-ART-IVITY 086 Questioning Questions The connection between Tönnies and fashion – an opinion piece by Stephan Huber 088 “We Must Define Who We Are” Dries van Noten’s appeal for new rules in the luxury market 096 Is Fashion Art? Or is this demarcation already obsolete? 100 Awareness as Art Ukrainian artist Julia Beliaeva sees many points of intersection with fashion 104 Paper Dreams Munich-based artist Shirin Sha creates fantasy worlds out of paper 106 “Timing Is Everything” Danish brand Minimum is realigning itself 108 Realignment of Traditional Values La Martina returns to collaborating with local agents 006
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114 Dolce Vita Included A specialist collection with strong roots and a famous name: Tom Ripley 116 “My Work Turns Into Property in a Gallery” Miramar’s murals combine art with a hint of politics 118 Art Space for Spatial Art Is that art or is it for sale? When fashion retailers flirt with art 128 Italian-Made Sustainable Drinking Bottles with Cult Potential Izmee’s drinking bottles are storming the market via Italy’s best boutiques 129 The Smoothest Trousers “Made in Naples” Michael Coal is creating a stir with sophisticated trousers 130 “Art Is My Inspiration” Brand founder and store owner Sophie Mechaly shares her favourite artists 132 “I Am Incredibly Inquisitive” Top auctioneer Robert Ketterer introduces his favourite artists 134 “I Believe in the Transformative Power of Art” Top manager Jochen Zeitz explains why art is part of corporate culture 135 Brand in Focus Parajumpers no longer limits itself to jackets only 136 “Women Can Be Good-Looking and Well-Dressed and Also Be Artists” Beatrix Ost was an Oskar Kokoschka student – now she influences designers
ALPHATAURI.COM
CONTENT
Good Reasons, Good Business
FASHION
Fashion has lost its ease – to gain substance. Those who enjoyed strong business after reopening did so for good reasons. They cultivated and maintained relationships, they recognised and satisfied desires, or they detected and communicated arguments. Fashion now has the unique opportunity to create a new narrative. Instead of a clumsy “this is new”, it is now about all the other reasons that encourage or justify buying. Editor: Isabel Faiss. Text: Isabel Faiss, Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Brands
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138 “Sustainability and Short Shelf-Lives Can Go Together” Top influencers join forces with a top manager on a common quest: Nu-In 139 Never Out of Style Durable jersey pieces that can be worn from morning to night: Sassenbach
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IN STORE 170 The More, The Better The Storefront Ticker offers smart retail strategies to combat the crisis 173 Tyrolean Free Thinker Franz Kitz/Kitzbühel
140 CRE-ACT-IVITY
174 One Step Beyond Phänomen The Corner/Lucerne
141 So What Is Better Now? Industry experts look to the future
175 Welcome to the Jungle Three Monkeys 030/Prien am Chiemsee
143 “A Win-Win Situation for All” Ruby Hotels founder Michael Struck is occupying shopping centres
176 Style Universe Elisabeth Vienna/Vienna
144 Let the Games Begin Filling the vacuum: an overview of B2B order tools and virtual showroom solutions 150 Key Opportunities Italian fashion pioneers share what they intend to change 152 “Leaders Cannot Be Followers” Ismail Boulaghmal of Clubkind Marketing is Mr Target Group 154 That’s History Retail experts on why nobody should repeat past mistakes
FASHION 156 Good Reasons, Good Business The factors that drive fashion and order rounds in the 2021 season
177 A Completely Self-Sufficient Path Mick’s/Hannover 178 Design Meets Local Colour Mein lieber Schwan/Münsing 179 Buy Less – Choose Well Kari Kari/Zurich 180 Village Idyll Meets Zeitgeist Das Kaminzimmer/Mauterndorf 181 Breath of Fresh Air Hallali/Marling 182 Two in One Claris my Goldie/Ettlingen 183 Oasis of Leisure Rar/Bezau
184 EDITOR’S LETTER Marketplace of Ideas
184 ABOUT US 008
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KENDALL JENNER
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Ignazio Moser, Tanja Gündling, VP AlphaTauri, and Giovanni Masiero
Cüneyt Yilmaz, owner Laufsteg Augsburg, and Andreas Murkudis, Murkudis Berlin, with his son
Tanja Gündling, VP AlphaTauri, Ahmet Mercan, CEO AlphaTauri, and Mik Yong, Head of Design AlphaTauri
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The current AlphaTauri F/S 2021 collection was presented to attending retailers and VIPs during the Grand Prix weekend in the Schönberghof.
AlphaTauri
FAST-PACED COLLECTION PREMIERE The setting could not be more fitting. AlphaTauri, the independent premium fashion brand of Red Bull, presented the highlights of its spring/ summer 2021 collections for women and men at the Formula 1 Grand Prix in Austria. The clothing brand has, after all, been the namesake and long-term partner of Red Bull’s own Formula 1 team, Scuderia AlphaTauri, since the beginning of the year. “We firmly believe in the collective principle. In order to drive our business forward, we need both digital and physical
platforms that allow personal exchanges with retailers, media representatives, and opinion leaders. In addition, the actual buying process cannot be replicated in purely digital form. Nobody buys mere products. The brand world and its spirit must be genuinely experienced,” says Ahmet Mercan, CEO AlphaTauri. 40 mannequins on a 27-metre long catwalk not only provided a glimpse of key looks, but also of product features and textile innovations. The presentation was supplemented by digitally produced clips. The conviction that a brand experience needs to be orchestrated ensures
that AlphaTauri remains innovative. Soon the “Mobile Innovation Lab” – a fully mobile, 60-square-metre pop-up store incorporated into a truck – will embark on a tour of Europe. “We wish to offer our customers and partners exclusive added value, and at the same time we face the challenge that each piece of the collection requires a great deal of explanation. This temporary fashion home allows us to guide visitors through the collections, bringing them to life with digital and virtual solutions,” describes Tanja Gündling, VP AlphaTauri. www.alphatauri.com
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Inpressd
CONNECT AND SIMPLIFY “Inpressd makes collections digitally tangible in a simple way, primarily for the media, but also for the wholesale trade,” explains Nico Hoffmeister, who founded the B2B networking platform for brands and media professionals. The idea is that brands make their information, look books, and mood images available on the platform in well-ordered form, allowing editors, bloggers, and buyers to easily access information while on the move. The photos are tagged with keywords, meaning that the integrated search function allows cross-brand product searches and topic research. Depending on access configuration, cropped frames and mood images are available for download. Alternatively, samples can be ordered for personal photo productions. A connection to the right contact person is automatically established. Another benefit: brands can publish and share news in real time. The cost is 99 Euros per brand per month; media professionals, bloggers, and buyers can use the platform free of charge. www.inpressd.com
What a spectacular sight: RRD’s new showroom in Rome.
RRD
“OPEN TO CHANGE, YET MINDFUL OF PAST BEAUTY”
Nico Hoffmeister has always been keen to interlink the industry. Alongside his role at Inpressd, he is the community manager of the start-up and creativity hubs Textilerei and C-HUB in Mannheim. Photo: Elmar Witt
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Roberto, congratulations on this impressive showroom in Rome! Roberto Ricci, founder of RRD: The new 400-square-metre showroom in Rome’s Ponte Milvio district was opened shortly before the lockdown. In retrospect, one could almost interpret its launch as a premonition of a somewhat different season. Showrooms are more important than ever during this order round. The choice is surprising… The idea for a new showroom was conceived a year ago. It took a while until we found the right location in this loft in Villa Brasini. The premises constitute a complete stylistic break with our collections and also form a strong contrast to our showroom in Milan’s Via Tortona. However, we believe that the classic Renaissance building and our modern, technical looks do have something in common: Italianitá in terms of attention to detail and sense of aesthetics. The pandemic caught us unprepared, just like everyone else. That is why we are all the more pleased to have invested in this showroom before the crisis even happened. Now we can welcome our customers in person and present our collections live here in Latium too. We are looking forward to a “reunion” in real life. What will the upcoming SS21 order round be like? We plan to present our collections in our showrooms in Milan and Rome, as well as, of course, in those of our agents throughout Italy. For our foreign customers who cannot travel, we have devised virtual presentations. Direct contact remains important to us, perhaps even more so than before. We believe that the long lockdown will be followed by a great desire to live “offline” with real emotions, to touch fabrics, and to see the colours in real light. How will order rounds change in the future? I believe a mixture of offline and online to be the best solution. We have to allow customers to decide which modality is best for them on an individual basis. We need to let them experience collections live, but also make their work easier by providing remote access. We do not wish for drastic change and I believe that smooth transition at the right time is the future. We as a label, and I personally, are open to change, yet will always be mindful of past beauty.
LET´S NOT BE BLIND
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Marc O’Polo
“WE VALUE SOLIDARITY” How does the pandemic affect collections, product range composition, or order and delivery cycles? Susanne Schwenger, CPO of Marc O’Polo: The era of superficiality and fast consumption is over. We are now even more focused on staying true to our style and creating favourite pieces that are sustainable and timeless. We strive for icons of modernity. The order phase has been pushed back three weeks and the delivery dates are about 20 percent shorter. Especially the early delivery dates are greatly reduced or, like for Casual Men in May, completely cancelled. The pre-order is complemented by our broad Must-Have and (B)NOS ranges. We have agreed to shoulder risk in advance, meaning that our retail partners can reorder flexibly and without risk. We value solidarity and remain in close contact with our partners to ensure that we can respond to changing situations and demands continuously. Will seasons still be relevant in the future? In terms of ordering and planning, delivery dates are already more crucial than superordinate seasons. As far as collections are concerned, however, seasonal products will always have relevance. Summer themes such as white linen and bohemian dresses, or articles such as tank tops and shorts, are and will remain important. However, the collection component of non-seasonal themes is becoming increasingly significant too. We draw from our own history when developing the collection by consulting the Marc O’Polo archives. The MO’P Era, which is the spring/summer 2021 collection theme, is inspired by the late 80s and early 90s. The collection is extremely modern, self-evident and contemporary. It features many season-independent fashion must-haves. Which changes does this entail for the production process and production countries? As the COVID-19 crisis continues and the developments are not yet foreseeable, that is difficult to assess. We have always maintained a very good relationship with our long-term partners. In the current situation, this allows us to become even stronger together and bonds us with our partners.
“Delivery dates are already more crucial than seasons.” Susanne Schwenger, CPO of Marc O’Polo
Peuterey
DOODLES For several seasons now, Peuterey’s creative laboratory Peuterey.Plurals has been providing artists and creative minds with an opportunity to develop a “new language” for the Italian label. The aim is to address and convince the younger generations, such as Gen-Z or Millennials, with new collections. The inspirations usually stem from the street style segment. The autumn/winter 2020/21 collection is defined by doodling, in other words: scribbling. A doodle is a drawing that is typically created in passing while a person focuses on something else. The maxi down jackets were decorated with doodles of all kinds in four different colours (red, white, black, beige) and are real eye-catchers. “The result of these collaborations between art and fashion is an explosion of ideas that culminate in a unique product. These reinterpretations never leave the consumer unaffected, but evoke emotions,” explains Francesca Lusini, President of Peuterey Group.
The down jacket as a sheet for doodles – the new collection by creative laboratory Peuterey.Plurals.
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Mey Zzzleepwear
DEEP SLEEP
“The industry is losing value and prestige. I want to do my part to change that.” Martina Schmidl, founder of Business Boostery
Business Boostery
Trouble sleeping? This nightwear promises relief. Mey’s latest innovation is Zzzleepwear, which is made of a material called N8TEX®. It features a ceramic inner print and has been proven to promote regenerative sleeping. Mey’s basic quality comprises a cladded material, which utilises Coolmax® fibres to regulate the body’s internal climate balance. The outer cotton layer lends the pieces a natural feel. The inner print is designed to reflect the short-wave currents emanating from the body and ensure relaxed muscles. An eleven-part podcast, which is sleep-inducingly boring according to Mey, provides further support. The scannable access code is printed directly on the nightwear. The bedtime stories can be enjoyed via Spotify. Zzzleepwear can be ordered until the 11th of September and will be available as NOS programme thereafter. Deliveries commence mid-November. www.mey.com
Mey’s new Zzzleepwear combines an innovative product with modern storytelling in the form of a sleep-inducing podcast.
PASSION AND POSITIVITY Martina Schmidl, who has set up her own consulting company Business Boostery, has moved away from classic coaching towards what is known as “boosting”. The entrepreneur explains: “We train managers and their teams to become top performers. It is all about thinking and acting entrepreneurially, thus exploiting maximum potential without losing motivation. The human factor is a company’s most important asset.” She believes that distribution is not set in stone either. “It is about feeling what the market really needs, finding the right partners, and avoiding over-distribution of the respective brand.” What qualifies Martina Schmidl for her job? “I believe in my positive way of approaching issues with enthusiasm and motivation. I refuse to limit myself in terms of thinking and acting, but combine my proactive mentality with excellent strategic skills.” Not least, her expertise is a strong point in favour of Martina Schmidl. She was Worldwide B2B Director for American Vintage until March 2020. www.business-boostery.com
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Munich Fabric Start
HOPETIMISM The Munich Fabric Start plans to host the Fabric Days, a special format for a limited number of exhibitors in four halls of the MOC, from the 1st to 3rd of September 2020. “This format provides Munich with a sales-focused business platform that focuses on essentials,” says managing director Sebastian Klinder. Hope and optimism, or hopetimism for short, is the central theme of the Fabric Days. “The newly coined term reflects a mindset of highlighting new approaches and perspectives,” says Sebastian Klinder. In his words: “It mirrors the spirit with which we can jointly develop future-oriented products and processes that are geared to market needs in a time that is extremely challenging for the industry.” Klinder regards it as the task of Munich Fabric Start to, at the very least, offer a special format to present the trends of autumn/winter 2020/21. The priority is to offer exhibitors and agencies who definitely want to and are able to exhibit in Munich an opportunity to present their innovations at this event. “Together, we can create a professional working environment in Munich that offers an inspiring and efficient atmosphere despite safety and hygiene measures,” says Sebastian Klinder. After all, that is what it is all about: to express confidence, provide inspiration, create experiences, and enable personal exchange – especially during a time of unpredictability. “One simply has to experience, feel, and see how a textile moves. One needs to cultivate friendships and partnerships face-to-face.” Klinder does not envisage purely digital formats as an alternative to the exhibition business, but rather as a supplement, for example when fabrics are not only available as photos, but as digital twins in 3D, and can be used directly within the production cycle. Fabric Days: 1st to 3rd of September 2020. www.munichfabricstart.com
HATS
THE LEGENDARY HAT BRAND
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Gallery Fashion und Gallery Shoes, Gallery Showroom Concept
COMBINING STRENGTHS Ulrike, how are you structuring your trade show in this peculiar year? Ulrike Kähler, Managing Director of Igedo Company & Project Director of Gallery Fashion/Gallery Shoes: We have opted for a joint date for the fashion and footwear segments! The market development indicates that this step is the only correct decision in times of coronavirus. After extensive discussions with exhibitors and retailers, we know how important it is to combine efforts right now. How will this be reflected on the exhibition floor? This mix already works in the showroom concept and premium area. We are well-prepared for this step. In the mid-brand market, we cannot mix the segments unreservedly, owing to the fact that the customer groups are quite different. As an industry platform, we will do all we can to ensure that retailers open up to new ideas rather than tread familiar paths. The Düsseldorf Fashion Days start at the beginning of August, while the Gallery with the Showroom Concept only starts at the end of August. A joint date for all would be desirable. However, we had no other choice due to regulations – hence the partnership with Supreme. What would you like to communicate to Gallery visitors? They can visit the event unconstrained after registering online in advance. The generous premises allow for sufficient distance. We meet the highest standards in terms of hygiene and safety regulations.
“I am in favour of concentrating on one date in Düsseldorf to ensure that retailers travel as little as possible.” Ulrike Kähler
Gallery Showroom Concept: 28th of August to 1st of September 2020, Gallery Fashion/Gallery Shoes: 30th of August to 1st of September 2020, www.gallery-duesseldorf.com
Exciting collaborations augment Gant’s brand value.
Gant
DIGITAL TOGETHER Sales floor scheduling, EDI, digital orders, B2B platform… “We are focusing on digitisation to improve customer support,” emphasises Ralf Meier, Sales Director DACH at Gant. “What we initiated a year ago, is now paving the way for us.” Instead of rigid order systems, retailers can be catered for more individually. “We strive to continuously offer customers innovations in the form of small capsules, without them having to travel for the order,” says Ralf Meier. “Our B2B platform makes it possible to compile product ranges virtually. The models can be viewed from all angles. The tool also offers information and image videos, as well as an EDI interface to ensure that the goods remain available at the POS.” Gant is planning four focused capsules per year. “We start with two collaborations, which are selectively distributed as limited editions: one with footwear brand Diemme, the other with interior design shooting star Luke Edward Hall.” www.gant.de
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Lightning Bolt
HALF A CENTURY OF SURFER CULTURE Surfboard label Lightning Bolt was founded in 1971 in Hawaii by Gerry Lopez. Known as Mr Pipeline, he is one of the most famous surfers in the world. There are various interpretations of the lightning logo. Whispers claim that it could refer to a special strain of marijuana from the 1970s. Others believe it could symbolise the power of nature. Or could it depict the speed surfers achieved with the shorter boards? The fact is, Lightning Bolt quickly evolved into a brand that not only sold surfboards and surf accessories, but also embodied the cool surfer lifestyle. Today, the brand produces in Portugal and ensures that the good vibes and “Hawaiian way of life” live on. Of course, this also means addressing environmental issues. “Our brand is in harmony with the ocean and nature - we bow to their raw power and are grateful for it. They are our refuge and home. The wilderness can unite us, protect us from climate change, and help us live longer and healthier lives. We must make a collective decision to live as a part of it, to share it among ourselves and our environment,” says Maria João Nogueira, Communication Manager of Lightning Bolt. The spring/summer collections for men and women celebrate this spirit. They are primarily made of cotton, blends are avoided. The combination of light colours and strong earthy tones bring the summer and the ocean to t-shirts, hoodies, and caps. Production in Portugal is crucial to the brand, as it supports the local textile industry and helps reduce CO2 emissions. One can be cool and environmentally friendly, even at 50!
The latest F65.0 innovation: the UWE V1 running shoe for men.
F65.0
FETISH
Happy birthday! Lightning Bolt is now a Silver Surfer. The brand celebrates its 50th birthday.
Lightning Bolt in the pipe with surfer Miguel Ruivo.
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One year after its launch, sneaker label F65.0 has released a new running model for men. “Once again, Florian Hofbauer and Manuel von Gadomski have adhered to their premise of creating timeless, individual classics,” says Nico Hoffmeister, who supports the duo from his base in Mannheim. “Now we are starting direct sales in Benelux and Northern Europe, so we have changed our homepage to English.” Retail customers currently include a van Laack Store in Hamburg, 7 Aygan in Stuttgart, and – very soon – Trendfabrik Brühl. Since May, the Netherlands market has been serviced via Atelier 67 B.V. fashion agency by Bob Rekers. “We are obsessed with sneakers, which is why the name F65.0 was chosen. It is the medical term for object fetishism,” explains Hoffmeister. “Production takes place in Portugal, where the sneakers are handcrafted under fair conditions.” In addition to the running model, there are two other styles, each as a hightop and low-top version, at a purchase and retail price of 89.90 and 219 Euros respectively. www.f65punktnull.de
4. – 7. 5. 2021 Frankfurt am Main
Leading International Trade Fair for Processing Textile and Flexible Materials
Beyond progress. texprocess.com
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Goldgarn Denim
SOPHISTICATED The Goldgarn Denim collection, which hails from Mannheim, is being expanded once more. It now also offers denim shirts for men, as well as denim jackets for men and women. “We live and love denim,” says label founder Kerem Oezcelik. “We can look back on 40 years of denim expertise and apply this knowledge to our products.” The jeans, whose style is subtle and casual, are distinguished by carefully considered details. The material is sourced from suppliers such as Isko International BV. The manufactories symbolise traditional craftsmanship and sustainable production with careful use of natural resources. The 500 customers in Europe include Engelhorn, Bailly Diehl, Breuninger, L&T, Garhammer, and Reischmann. Since its foundation, Goldgarn Denim has been a partner of a regional charity named Aufwind Mannheim. One Euro per sold jeans is donated to the organisation in order to help socially disadvantaged children. www.goldgarndenim.de
Goldgarn Denim impresses with incredible attention to detail. The label recently added denim shirts and jackets to its range.
DU4
LIGHT AND SOFT The DU4 collection focuses on innovation. “A new addition is our Light and Soft series featuring shirts made of very light cotton and cotton-linen qualities, which are processed to be super soft and have virtually no interlining,” says David Dufour. The shirts are delivered individually in light fabric bags and are thus free of plastic additives. The order phase starts in July via the agencies of DU4. Deliveries are made from February to April, depending on the customers’ wishes. “We do not want to deliver too early, allowing retail customers to return to a normal delivery cycle,” emphasises Dufour. “We have given a lot of thought as to what retailers need right now, and want to provide arguments.” This includes an expanded NOS programme featuring shirts which, according to Dufour, can be accessed individually from one day to the next. Special requests can be realised at short notice. “It is now paying off that we have always produced in Europe. It allows us to respond to demand.” www.du4.de
Men’s shirt specialist DU4 has introduced a new innovation featuring particularly light, softly finished shirts.
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Managing Partner Matthias Mey navigates Mey through the crisis.
Mey
JUGGLING OPPORTUNITIES During the coronavirus crisis, Mey has demonstrated its ability to operate with agility. Matthias, which measures did you take? Matthias Mey, Managing Partner of Mey and Mey Story: The Hungarian government approached us as early as midMarch with a request to produce mouth and nose masks at our local plant. A little later, the requests from Germany started piling up too, so my brother and I immediately set up a production line here in Albstadt with a small team. Once in crisis mode, one suddenly acts like in the early days of a small business; it quickly becomes clear what works and what does not. Such clear leadership is needed in such times. Now Mey has returned to its core business. It is relatively simple to stop a production line, but to get a full-scale production plant up and running again is considerably more difficult! In order to retain as many employees as possible, we will definitely need the instrument of short-time employment until the end of the year. At the same time, we feel obliged to our subcontractors, because we wish to treat our partners fairly too. What is your most significant insight? I have learned the importance of producing locally or in Europe. The coronavirus crisis has demonstrated how vulnerable our global supply chains really are! Without our regional sourcing, as well as our many long-standing strong partners in Germany and neighbouring countries, we would not have been able to adapt so quickly. In conjunction with production in our own factories, we were able to react quickly to changing environments.
SPRING/SUMMER 2021
GANT.COM
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Premium, Seek & #Fashiontech
HEADING FOR NEW SHORES “Be-in-Berlin”, Bread & Butter, or Panorama – Berlin’s trade show landscape has seen plenty of comings and goings over the past 18 years. Now the Premium and the Seek are leaving the capital together and will take place in conjunction with the Neonyt during the Frankfurt Fashion Week in summer 2021 at the exhibition centre in the heart of the Hessian financial metropolis. style in progress met Anita Tillmann, Managing Partner of Premium Group, to discuss turning points and synergies. Anita, how do you avoid the decision in favour of Frankfurt being interpreted as one against Berlin? You did not take this decision lightly and, after all, you have invested almost 20 years of love in the capital. It is not a question of competition between locations. Every city has strengths and advantages, and everything has its time. We had an exciting and positive experience in Berlin for 18 years and I am grateful that we were able to try things, grow, and successfully establish ourselves as a company. We live in Berlin and love this city. Our trade shows are very successful and we come from a position of strength. Times and needs change, and we need a new narrative – economically strong, sustainable, and sexy. We have to continue developing our concepts, rethink in order to remain competitive in the long term and internationally, and we also have a responsibility to the industry. Frankfurt is the perfect place to put our visions and ideas into practice, and to share a new narrative. Does Frankfurt really still need three different trade shows? Thematically and also conceptually there are many overlapping areas. Sustainability, for example, was always a strong topic at the Premium. In terms of synergy, however, processes will be combined; do three trade fairs with their own companies make sense? How do you differentiate among yourselves? How do you avoid a fight for exhibitors among the three fairs? The new concept is all about the symbiosis of trade show, content, and event. It is about an overall appearance, a happening, and a feeling of togetherness. We have been working closely with the Neonyt in terms of content for a long time. We have already successfully produced our content formats Fashiontech and FashionSustain together in the past. That was very well received. We are currently working on using the synergy of all our events to create a place that surprises, emotionalises, inspires, and excites. How can we envisage the operational management of the
Bold move: Anita Tillmann, Managing Partner Premium Exhibitions, says: “We focus on a new culture of cooperation.”
Premium and the Seek? Will there still be an operational team in Berlin after the show in January, or will the trade shows actually move all their belongings to Frankfurt? We are a digitally progressive company, so space and time have not restrained us for a long time. What does the decision in favour of Frankfurt mean for the Premium site at “Gleisdreieck”? In January we are planning to stage the Premium, the Seek, and the Fashiontech as usual, taking all hygiene concepts into account. We will not leave without saying goodbye properly and loudly. All those who have accompanied us and stood by our side will be invited. Under the motto “Thank you Berlin and Hello Frankfurt”, we plan to present our concept, as well as the network and players from Frankfurt, to the industry and brands. When did it click during negotiations with Messe Frankfurt? What was the point at which you knew: Yes, this is the solution and this is what my team and I are committed to? We have been talking about the idea of a strategic alliance of our trade shows for quite a while now, and we have known each other for over two decades. We share the enthusiasm and passion for our jobs, observe the development of the industry, and recognise the many opportunities that come with change. Concerning Frankfurt, we put our heads together for the first time in October 2019 and explored various scenarios. So it clicked before the negotiations even began. We focus on relevance and business, but also on a new culture of cooperation.
The Premium is moving from the Spree to the Main to offer the fashion industry an international, digital-affine, future-oriented, sustainable business platform.
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Floris van Bommel
OXYGEN American Vintage
ARRIVED Ender, what is your status quo? Ender Sahin, Sales Manager DACH at American Vintage: Following the lockdown in France, our business is picking up again. Our delivery rhythms are now kicking in, because they afford retailers the flexibility they need. In addition to Fall-Winter 2020, they can order from the High Summer Capsule. It features light qualities and linen looks in new colours, which are available immediately. It is pleasing to see that an increasing number of customers are taking advantage of this. The brand has been pushing menswear for the last few seasons. It is developing very encouragingly and has inspired retailers such as Breuninger and Konen. We are very proud of the collection, which is equal to the strong womenswear in its degree of maturity, clean in look and with our typical feel-good character. The investment we have made in our core competence and quality management is bearing fruit. Moreover, American Vintage is increasingly perceived as a complete collection. We intend to pursue this path further. www.americanvintage-store.com
Ender Sahin, Sales Manager DACH at American Vintage, relies on a flexible delivery rhythm.
Pepijn, you refer to margin as the oxygen of the market. Pepijn van Bommel, Commercial Director of Floris van Bommel: Yes, and independent retailers urgently need more of it. Retailers are under massive pressure, be it strict supplier guidelines, an early start of the sales season, in-season discounts, or much too early sales. For a healthier retail sector, it is above all essential to push back the clearance sale. How else will independent retailers, who are so essential for shopping streets and city centres, survive? A big step forward would be to abolish legal regulations and allow brands to determine their pricing policy and length of the sale period themselves. This would be a valuable tool in supporting independent retailers. What steps do you take to be a good partner for trade? We have made our delivery options even more flexible and have switched from three to five delivery windows. In terms of delivery time, we also offer the utmost flexibility. Retailers can receive ordered styles at a time of their choosing later in the season, and, of course, place ad hoc orders. Important key styles are available over a period of five months. Whatever fits into a retailer’s strategy, we can deliver. www.florisvanbommel.com
Circolo 1901
EASY CHIC
Circolo 1901 relies on uncomplicated elegance for both men and women.
Italian brand Circolo 1901, which hails from Apulia, continues to rely on uncomplicated, high-quality collections for men and women. The looks are intended to accompany the wearer from work directly to the cocktail party. Only one thing counts: the personal style of the wearer, which Circolo 1901 strives to upgrade with its “easy chic” mood. The heart of the Circolo 1901 collection remains the so-called “Easy Jacket”. It is an iconic jacket available in many variations. Jersey, piqué, or plush – feeling comfortable is paramount. The outstanding wearing experience impresses retailers and customers alike – and this is also the brand’s major selling point. Anyone who has worn Circolo 1901 will never want to forgo this unique mix of freedom of movement and Italian style.
“As a brand, we are committed to a healthier retail climate with fair conditions for independent retailers.” Pepijn van Bommel, Commercial Director of Floris van Bommel.
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Save The Duck
TEN RIVERS, ONE OCEAN They do not use goose down, or animal products in general. However, they also forego many other things that can be harmful to the environment in conventional production techniques. In keeping with this philosophy, Save the Duck has this year teamed up with Sea Shepherd for a limited capsule collection. The label has agreed to accompany explorer Alex Bellini on his tour of the world’s ten most polluted rivers, all of which feed one single ocean. Save the Duck’s commitment to the environment has been given a prominent figurehead with its Circular Economy Jacket, the first jacket made of 100 percent recycled material. We heard the message loud and clear: Where there is a will, there is a way! www.savetheduck.com
Long-lived favourites: Nuffinz shorts from Austria.
Nuffinz
FREE YOUR BALLS Ultra-comfortable shorts for men for after surfing, after sports, or for the home office: Andreas Gähwiler set out with this vision when he launched Nuffinz in 2018. The CEO of the company builder V_labs secured funding via Kickstarter. The label has been experiencing highs and lows, but can always rely on the tremendous support of an organically growing community of ambassadors who, like Gähwiler himself, would prefer to never take the shorts off again. Nuffinz uses the teddy quality of the organic cotton fabric inside-out to further increase wearing comfort. www.nuffinz.com
Galeries Lafayette x Kreuzberger Himmel
DEPARTMENT STORE ANGELS Since early 2018, a team of refugees from seven nations has been demonstrating how eye-level integration can work in Berlin’s Kreuzberger Himmel restaurant. A pop-up space has recently been set up in the gourmet section of French department store Galeries Lafayette. Here, guests can order a selection of the most popular dishes, including Arabic wraps, Syrian delicacies, and various types of humus. “We are very grateful for this wonderful cooperation and the ongoing support of Galeries Lafayette. The ordered closure was not easy for us, which is why we appreciate this great opportunity,” says initiator Andreas Tölke. He launched the restaurant in cooperation with the charity Be an Angel. Andreas Tölke and his team cooked for several hundred homeless every day during the coronavirus lockdown. www.kreuzberger-himmel.de, www.beanangel.direct
Fighting for a common cause: Sea Shepherd and Save The Duck.
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Good food, interesting conversations: the Kreuzberger Himmel team now runs a pop-up at Galeries Lafayette.
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Italian style is always in fashion.
Monaco Duck
ASK CARL!
A statement loafer with added value: 20 percent of the online sales price was returned to retailers.
Such a service initiative deserves applause. The team headed by Julian Hermsdorf and Carl Warkentin has really upped its game. A specially designed statement slipper demonstrates the dedication to retail partners. 20 percent of the proceeds from online orders were transferred to the buyer’s retailer of choice. Monaco Duck has also maintained its close ties with customers. A recent newsletter to followers and customers says it all: “Being available for all kind of questions is part of our Monaco Duck philosophy. What is new, however, is that you now receive a personal Instagram video reply directly from our founder Carl!” No sooner said than done, Carl Warkentin answered questions once a month. www.monacoduck.com
Les Deux
POP-UP CONCEPT Having run a pop-up store on “Rosenthaler Platz” in “Berlin Mitte” since October 2019, Danish menswear brand Les Deux has opted to continue its retail expansion by opening a 25-square-metre shop-in-shop concept called “The Box” at Engelhorn in Mannheim. The range mainly consists of the successful NOS programme and the pre-autumn 2020 collection. “We are very proud to further develop our ‘The Box’ concept for Les Deux in collaboration with Engelhorn. We will also intensify the cooperation with other retail partners throughout the coming seasons,” says Ilya Morgan, Managing Partner of Deluxe Distribution. His agency is Les Deux’s general representative in Germany – with the support of Agentur Wittmann of Düsseldorf and Masch Agency of Munich. The Austrian market is handled by Room With A View of Salzburg. www.lesdeux.dk
Barba Napoli
HAND IN HAND
The Les Deux pop-up store in the entrance area at Engelhorn Mannheim relies on colourful and detailed staging.
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Not even idle during shutdown: Barba Napoli has reorganized itself, realigned its 110 employees, set up smart working, and reconfigured its warehouse. The initial shock was followed by a thirst for action: Raffaele Barba recounts how hard times were, but he does it with the sympathy and positive manner for which Neapolitans are famed. “The spring/summer 2021 collections are reduced in size. They pick up styles from the 2020 collection, so retailers will not have the problem of ‘outdated’ merchandise. Many classics remain and we focus even more on our features such as traditional tailoring and ‘Made in Italy’.” Barba will also implement the digitisation of the next order round: “We had to take this step, simply because many of our foreign customers will not be able to visit our Milan showroom.” In the DACH region, the label is represented by Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz’s fashion agency D-Tails.
REVOLUTIONAL ® JACQUARD BERMUDA
B2B-PORTAL
alberto-pants.com CREATED IN MÖNCHENGLADBACH
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Olaf Schmidt, Vice President Textiles & Textile Technologies Messe Frankfurt.
Messe Frankfurt
THE NEW COALITION Messe Frankfurt and the Premium Group are jointly initiating Frankfurt Fashion Week next summer. The Premium, Seek, and Neonyt trade shows, as well as the Fashion Sustain and Fashion Tech conference formats, are scheduled to take place in the Main metropolis in July 2021, accompanied by catwalk shows and events. style in progress spoke to Olaf Schmidt, Vice President Textiles & Textile Technologies of Messe Frankfurt, about visitor frequency, funding, and the farewell to Berlin in January. How is Frankfurt, as a trade fair venue, expected to attract more buyers in the future, especially given the steady decline in the number of international visitors in Berlin? The future vision of a fashion week is set to become reality in Frankfurt. The intelligent intermeshing of fashion, new technologies, and sustainability is crucial for the fashion and textile industry. With Applied Sustainability and Applied Digitisation as content USPs, Frankfurt Fashion Week is addressing these issues. The result is a modern and contemporary format that sets itself apart from existing Fashion Weeks and defines new benchmarks. International visitors are obviously one of the main focal points. To this end, we are, among other things, setting up an international VIP buyer programme. Of course, the central location and the easy accessibility via the international airport are particularly attractive for international guests. The extremely short distances between the exhibition centre, the city, the transport hubs, and the urban hotspots are also advantageous for visitors. You plan to create an “ecosystem of tradeshows, conferences, runways, and events for professionals and consumers”. What will this new system look like? That is correct. We strive to create a new fashion ecosystem featuring five platforms, three trade shows, two conferences, and more than 2,000 designers, brands, and fashion companies. At the heart of the system are Europe’s biggest fashion fairs: Premium, the most relevant business platform for advanced womenswear and menswear in Europe, Seek, one of the most progressive
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Banking centre and fashion metropolis: worlds collide between skyscrapers in Frankfurt. The Frankfurt Fashion Week aims to provide new impulses for the fashion business.
trade shows for contemporary fashion, and Neonyt, the leading hub for sustainable fashion. The Frankfurt Fashion Week is aimed at a future-oriented, digital-affine fashion and lifestyle community: business to business, business to consumer, business to people, people to people. Of course, the trade shows will only be accessible to trade visitors. However, fashion and lifestyle should be experienced by everyone throughout the city. The City of Frankfurt expects the Fashion Week to generate an indirect profit of over 200 million Euros per year. What will the 10 million Euros in funding provided by the state and the city be used for? The Frankfurt Fashion Week will be of great economic relevance for the Frankfurt region. It is an important, positive signal in these difficult times. The investment totalling 10 million Euros for the next three years, pledged by the city and the state, is earmarked, among other things, for the development of various measures such as location marketing, promotion of young talent, and for the aforementioned international VIP buyer programme. What are the current plans for the A/W shows in January 2021 – will there be a farewell event of Neonyt in Berlin? Definitely! We want to thank Berlin with the last Neonyt in the city. The trade show grew up in Berlin. The city has always been very dear to us and we had a great time here. We are very much looking forward to seeing everyone again in January 2021. Bye bye Berlin, welcome Frankfurt. Both aspects must be celebrated! www.frankfurt.fashion, www.neonyt.messefrankfurt.com
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Ulli Ehrlich has been at the helm of Sportalm since the end of last year and is thus the driving force behind the new collection that bears her name.
Sportalm
MATTER OF THE HEART Sportalm has decided to complement its eponymous base collection by launching a new range called Ulli Ehrlich. “It is a matter close to my heart,” says Ulli Ehrlich, who assumed control of the Kitzbühel-based company at the end of 2019 and has been assisted by Norbert Lock in an advisory capacity since November. “This new range invokes our roots as a sports-related family business.” The focus is on fashionable, sporty indoor and outdoor jackets, complemented by shirts, knitwear, leggings, skirts, and dresses. “Each piece is a powerful statement, meaning that it also impresses as a stand-alone garment,” says Ehrlich. Characteristics of the style are sporty elements such as hoods for blazers, drawstrings, and tape details, as well as plenty of silver, strong colours, and striking prints. The materials, such as neoprene and techno stretch, are
inspired by functional sportswear. The prices of the 70-piece range are in line with the main collection. Retail prices for indoor jackets average 300 Euros, while outdoor jackets cost between 400 and 500 Euros. At a mark-up of 2.7, trousers range from 129 to 229 Euros. Including the Sportalm collection, the company now offers 300 styles. Deliveries start in December. www.sportalm.at
Dornschild
HIT THE ROAD Who says roles cannot be reversed? In this order round, Dornschild embarks on a special road trip with its agent Lars Fischer of Moderaum Fischer. Lars Fischer plans to hop into a vintage van and visit all clients in person. The journey can be followed on an individual website and social media, including live videos and Instagram stories. “People enjoy personal contact and we are keen to make personal contact something special,” says Jörn Boysen, co-founder of Dornschild. www.dornschild.com
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Distributed by Deluxe Distribution GmbH & Co. KG Contact: info@deluxe-distribution.de
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Sealup
LOOKING AHEAD Sealup, a traditional Milanese brand, has used the shutdown for new projects and is starting the order round confidently. In the first phase, the jacket manufacturer cut back production and started producing masks, which were mainly donated to the Humanitas hospital in Milan. In the second phase, the focus shifted to planning the coming collection, a new start so to speak. The design team scoured Sealup’s complete archive of over 4,000 pieces and created an SS21 collection that embodies the company’s DNA and tradition. It is a small collection of selected pieces with cult character – a reduction to essentials, just what the retail trade currently needs. Moreover, the already planned investment in digitisation has been accelerated so that the brand’s collections and stock range can be accessed via Joor. “We are very upbeat, because we see many markets reopening and showing a certain vitality and interest, such as China,” says Pino Vaghi, the General Export Manager of Sealup. www.sealup.net
A trendsetter in coats and jackets yesterday and today: Sealup.
Style Munich More Space and Time
Blauer USA owner and designer Enzo Fusco is both realistic and optimistic.
Blauer USA
THE SECRET IS LOYALTY The current order round will be quite different. How will Blauer USA cope? For the SS21 season, we plan to present a slightly downsized collection. It takes into account that temperatures have changed this time of year. We are presenting jackets of different weights for different temperatures. In addition, we, as always, address the issue of the environment by offering models made of recycled material. Now more than ever, solid relationships and loyal alliances between business partners matter. Do you have any advice on how to overcome the crisis together? We have always invested in excellent relationships with suppliers and customers. These days, we help and support them all the more with a generous exchange policy and special payment terms. At such delicate times, it is very important to work as a team and to regard customers and suppliers as partners. The aim is to all return to full performance as quickly as possible and look to the future together. What are your expectations for the sales round? Our expectations are quite sober, as we have forecast a twenty to twenty-five percent drop in orders for next year. This assessment is based on a study that has analysed the situation in Italy on a global scale. But as I said, together we will succeed, as always.
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The Style Munich showroom event will take place for the fourth time on the “Zenith” premises from the 20th to 27th of August. Agencies like Cuore Tricolore, Caramia Fashion Favourites, IP5, and Fashion & Shoes, as well as labels such as Baum & Pferdegarten and Hidnander, have already agreed to attend. “We were driven by a single question: How can we create a collaboration of agencies, labels, and buyers in a way that makes sense and is fun for everyone? Result: No trade show! Simply a somewhat larger showroom where people meet in a relaxed atmosphere to discuss collections in detail,” says initiator Toni Leis. 20th to 27th of August, www.stylemunich.de
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Alberto
“LICK YOUR WOUNDS AND MOVE ON” Marco, has the fashion industry learned its lesson? Marco Lanowy, Managing Partner of Alberto: We have seen many grand announcements. What I think was often not taken into account in the approaches, is that fashion also has a preliminary step. It takes years to change such a complex structure. We set out six or seven years ago to change our processes, but also our attitude. What is the key to brand modernity? We are an update generation – just consider iPhones, software, or even cars. This is exactly how we specialists must think when developing our ranges. That is why we cancelled intermediate collections a long time ago. They are not needed as long as you take your models – and their according updates – seriously. We strive to ensure that our products do not lose relevance over their entire life cycle of several years. What is the key to customer address? In addition to all hard facts such as fit, durability, quality, and of course emotion, the main key to customer contact is to listen, to seize opportunities. We focused strongly on cross-selling during the crisis, for example. When the golf shops were unable to sell golf pants, because the courses were closed, we asked ourselves: What are people who usually play golf doing right now? They are cycling. So we started selling our bike jeans through those channels. Similarly, we turned the feedback on our golf pants into a new opportunity. Many customers tell us that they feel so comfortable in them that they also wear them when they go hiking, cycling or walking in the city. We have decided to position these pants as hybrid sports pants with selected, strong partners. It works, mainly because we did not invent this approach in the marketing department. It is actually based on real customer feedback.
Embrace the Future: Alberto’s 2021 collection introduces important innovations such as three organic denim models. At the same time, the brand has adapted promptly during the pandemic by carrying over parts of the summer 2020 collection into next summer to protect the products from seasonal devaluation.
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Supreme
“THE SEASON WILL DRAG ON, NO QUESTION ABOUT THAT” Aline, many agents and brands believe the respective trade show dates in Düsseldorf and Munich are too late. Many retailers, on the other hand, love the schedule. How do you respond to critics of the timing? Aline Müller-Schade, co-founder of Munichfashion Company: First and foremost, everyone wants the seasons to “normalise” again, i.e. to ensure the goods arrive in stores as close to actual consumer needs as possible, and ensure a regulated “sale” at a later date. The early bird catches the worm. True to this motto, many industry players, both agencies and manufacturers, are pressing ahead to reach retailers as early as possible, and to secure orders as quickly as possible. They are desperate not to lose them on the way. It remains to be seen whether agencies and manufacturers have misinterpreted the situation. We have heard from the retail trade that many have given our order show schedule their vote of confidence. Fact is that the upcoming season will be very different. Predictable or not, the season will drag on. There is no question about that. The choice of dates was, of course, also influenced by factors such as approval procedures. At your events, the exchange between manufacturers always takes place in a particularly cordial atmosphere. Will all the after-fair events have to be cancelled this time around? Our cordial exchange is not limited to evening events. I think everyone will understand if we cannot host them right now. Our exhibitors and visitors currently perceive our commitment as emphatic. Evening events simply are not a priority at the moment! Supreme Women&Men Düsseldorf, 28th to 31st of August 2020 Supreme Women&Men Munich, 12th to 15th of September 2020
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Buy-fair.de
DO GOOD BY BUYING BRANDS ONLINE
The Coppolecchia-Reinartz dynasty has news! The fashion expert and founder of D-Tails has teamed up with Themo Tschaidse of Kanzlei Tschaidse in Munich to launch an innovative project: buy-fair.de. The virtual marketplace allows retailers to discreetly sell residual items outside their store and do good at the same time. Top retailers have already agreed to participate and can look forward to receiving valuable data from the channel. The aim is to avoid “wasting” older branded goods in the store whilst supporting non-profit organisations. Naturally, consumers also benefit from this new shopping system: they can buy high-quality brand products at a discounted price and pat themselves on the back since part of the purchase price is donated. “It is very important to us that, in addition to the original price and offer price, you can clearly see what percentage goes to charity.” www.buy-fair.de
Kick-Off Munich We Stick Together
Stetson
“THE CUSTOMER DECIDES HOW TO ORDER” Keyword “Buy less – buy better”. How has the new consumer attitude manifested itself at Stetson? Klaus Kirschner, CEO & Managing Partner of Friedrich W. Schneider GmbH & Co. KG / Stetson Europe: This consumer attitude is not really new for Stetson’s customers. We have in fact always primarily had customers who buy our product with the expectation that the purchase will accompany them for the rest of their lives. Depending on the product and how it is treated, this may not always work, but our low return rate means we have a pretty good track record. “Buy less – buy better” has always been 100% our policy, and it seems this stance is being proved right now. We do not manufacture products that you have to write off or even throw away if they are not sold immediately. Home office, video meetings, and physical distancing have become the new standard overnight. What has fundamentally changed at Stetson? I think we have simply learned to understand and utilise some additional options better. We now know who can work from home and still perform – or even outperform – and who needs the structure of an office to achieve optimal results. We have learned how much time you suddenly have for long deferred work when you are no longer travelling the world to attend all kinds of appointments personally. However, we have also learned for which topics a personal meeting is essential. Finding the right balance is the challenge, and it will level off over time. The order round commences without trade shows in Florence and Berlin for the first time. What will the new season bring for you? We are all very curious. Generally speaking, we are in the arguably rather luxurious position of having more than 30 agents and representatives who are travelling throughout Europe on our behalf. We assume that most appointments are conducted in person. A product that one has felt and/or worn can be purchased with peace of mind. At the same time, we have also created the technological foundations to present our collection digitally. At the end of the day, our customer decides how to order.
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It all began with a few phone calls between colleagues: Florian Ranft and Henrik Soller of Komet und Helden in Munich got the ball rolling for what can be described as their “home game”. Renowned agencies such as Matthias Schwarte Modeagentur, Heritage Showroom, Agentur McAlpine, Ben And, Modeagentur Andreas Saam, Modeagentur Raab, Agentur Moormann, Agentur Kappler, and Modeagentur Klauser have committed to a joint event. The aforementioned agencies plan to welcome their clients at Kick-Off Munich from the 31st of July to 2nd of August 2020. The corresponding winter event is scheduled to take place alongside the Ispo from the 29th to 31st of January 2021. Is Kick-Off Munich the start of something bigger? Given the participants, everything is possible. 31st of July to 2nd of August 2020
Munich Connect The Multi-Agency Showroom
Something has been brewing in Munich – something good. All parties have agreed on a common schedule. Thus, the Munich Connect, a showroom format initiated by Petra McAlpine and Klara Moormann of Moormann & Co with agencies like Room von Berlin three seasons ago, will take place once again in Munich from the 20th to 26th August. The address remains the same, only the name of the location has changed from “Reithalle” to “Utopia”. 20th to 26th August, www.munichconnect.de
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Ecoalf
UPCYCLING THE OCEAN
French chic meets “Made in Italy”: Les Copains has realigned itself.
Les Copains owes its comeback to this young team: Creative Director Yossi Coen, Brand Manager Camilla Zambelli, and CEO Rodolfo Zambelli.
Spanish brand Ecoalf is maintaining its course of continual development with the aim of reducing environmental pollution even faster, by avoiding unnecessary waste. Its new luggage line features four bags made of ultra-light and particularly robust recycled materials. A large travel bag and a trolley version, with between 28 and 95 litres volume, are now available at prices ranging from 149 to 199 Euros. As with the introduction of the Yoga collection, the luggage pieces are initially only available via Ecoalf’s own stores and online shop before being offered for wholesale. “In order to be even more transparent, Ecoalf plans to equip all products with a QR code that allows customers to determine how much CO2, water, P04, or transport kilometres have been saved by using the recycled materials, who manufactured the products, and which certificates have been awarded to the respective production sites,” explains Ecoalf founder and president Javier Goyeneche. The brand’s sales agent in Germany is Deluxe Distribution. Austria is covered by Room With A View, while Switzerland is covered by Agentur Eins Zwei Zwei Eins. www.ecoalf.com
Les Copains
A REVIVAL The ideal blend of Italian know-how and French savoir faire – this is how Les Copains presents itself under new management. The French label was acquired by the Zambelli family of Bologna in October 2019 and re-launched in February 2020 during the Milan Fashion Week. The Zambelli family, and their company Super srl, have set themselves ambitious goals at both domestic and international level: “It was imperative to us to respect the essence of Les Copains and reinterpret all the brand’s characteristic elements: the naval style, the Navy Blue 188, the golden details, or the ribbed knit. We are proud to have remained faithful to a look that combines classic and contemporary style, and to have focused on collections of durable, high-quality pieces: not the fireworks of a single season, but timeless elegance that lasts,” says brand manager Camilla Zambelli. Yossi Coen was recruited as creative director for the ambitious relaunch project. The Israeli designer meticulously studied the Les Copains archive and drew inspiration for the inaugural collections from 1970s Paris. The new Les Copains woman is timeless and loves informal elegance. She values high-quality materials and, of course, Italian craftsmanship. “Our typical customer is a young career woman who appreciates everyday elegance that adapts to the wearer and does not dominate her,” adds Camilla Zambelli. Les Copains has entrusted a well-known player in the German-speaking world with distribution in the DACH region: Agentur Klauser has represented the label since early 2020. www.lescopains.com
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Ecoalf now also offers luggage made of recycled plastic bottles.
www.du4.de
LIGHT AND SOFT AS A FEATHER. OUR LIGHT & SOFT SHIRT. FOR A NATURAL SKIN FEELING – EVERYDAY.
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Pitti Immagine
DOLCE & GABBANA ALTA MODA SHOW IN FLORENCE The Pitti Uomo of summer 2020 has been cancelled and replaced by online order platform ePitti Connect. However, fashion in the city lives on. The City of Florence and Pitti Immagine will be sending a powerful reminder by hosting a Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda fashion show and other events on the 2nd and 3rd of September. In addition to world-famous designers, the events will also feature the craftsmen and artigiani who make Alta Moda creations like those of Dolce & Gabbana possible. All events will be broadcast live on the websites of Pitti Immagine and Dolce & Gabbana. www.pittimmagine.com
A strong sign of life from Florence: Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, in collaboration with the Pitti Immagine and the City of Florence, plan to celebrate fashion on the 2nd and 3rd of September. The Alta Moda fashion show and numerous other events will be streamed live.
Modehaus Schnitzler
90 MINUTES Schnitzler is upping the pace. The same-day delivery service offered by the fashion house is now not only faster, but also – thanks to cargo bikes – more environmentally friendly. In cooperation with Leezenheroes, Schnitzler promises that any online order can be delivered by bike couriers within the city area in 90 minutes: to the office, to your home, to the lake, to the canal, or to the hotel. But that is not all. Andreas Weitkamp: “As a very special extra, we utilise the main train station as a delivery hub. We deliver orders to a locker, allowing commuters to pick up their order directly on the way to or from the train.” In these turbulent times for the stationary retail trade, entrepreneur Andreas Weitkamp relies on a “hands-on mentality” and new ideas: “We owe it to our team to constantly think and act with an eye to the future.” www.modehaus-schnitzler.de
Place your order at Schnitzler and receive the goods at home or in the office within 90 minutes. Schnitzler and Leezenheroes make it possible. Andreas Weitkamp, Anissa Große Hokamp (both Modehaus Schnitzler), and Florian Voss (Leezenheroes, centre) are the “riding force” behind the sportive project.
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Perfectly placed back pockets are just one of many features of Fracomina’s new Bella fits.
Fracomina
CIAO BELLA! “Bella” is the name of the new fit concept of Italian jeans manufacturer Fracomina. The brand has tested 200 different styles over two years and optimised them for the female body. The result is a fit that adjusts perfectly, provides support, and accentuates leg and body ergonomics with cleverly placed back pockets. The range is celebrating its premiere this season and is available in both pre-order and post-order. Fracomina distributes its collection via its own showroom in Lodenfrey Park, but also enjoys the support of fashion agencies Modeagentur ER-CE and Modeagentur Arno Przewoznik. www.fracomina.com
Floris van Bommel 9th generation shoemaker since 1734
DĂźsseldorf: Gallery Shoes, MĂźnchen: Supreme, Essenz
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Mehr wie 100 Modelle auf Lager, Kostenloser Versand
Customer Service (deutschsprachig): +31 13 51 36 930, vertrieb@florisvanbommel.com
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Madl Couture
TREASURE TROVE 700 square metres of studios, premises and fabric stocks that other designers can only dream of, and a customer catalogue that takes your breath away – traditional costume designer Carolin Sinemus became the custodian of a truly unique treasure trove at the beginning of June: Madl Couture in Salzburg. The founder of fusion brand Sisi Wasabi manages her little slice of paradise with the help of ten employees. “I wish to make my individual style visible whilst preserving this special treasure,” says the entrepreneur, who has worked as a designer for brands such as Gössl in recent years. “I really enjoy the studio concept, and I think it is very much in line with the current zeitgeist,” Carolin Sinemus adds. www.madlsalzburg.com
The women’s collection by National Geographic also incorporates all iconic features of the brand.
National Geographic
PREMIERE FOR WOMEN
Madl Couture, located in Salzburg’s famous “Getreidegasse”, is a renowned yet somewhat concealed source of high-quality, custom-made traditional costumes and couture. Designer Carolin Sinemus recently took over the traditional business. ©Ursula Seelenbacher
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National Geographic has its next premiere lined up. As of autumn 2020, the outerwear brand also offers a collection for women. It, of course, meets the same high standards as the men’s collection. “We believe in our product and our shared responsibility to use resources sensibly. Among other aspects, our strategy includes the use of recycled materials and organic cotton, taking greatest care when selecting production partners, and placing a strong focus on safe working conditions and fair wages,” says Patrick Andrist, CEO of CoreM. His company is the licensee and producer of the National Geographic apparel collection. The independent character of the design is clearly discernible – it skilfully plays with hybrid concepts featuring clear cuts and timeless design. Muted shades collide with pop colours. The “Yellow Border”, the iconic National Geographic logo, adds accents with high recognition value. Quality and sophisticated design ensure the brand’s outerwear remains a long-term companion. www.thecorem.com
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Room Nine “As an agency, we need to move NOW,” says
agency owner Thorsten Müller. He means this literally, which is proven by the fact that he spent most of the last few weeks in his car while visiting and, above all, talking to his customers. “Most are at 75 percent of the previous year’s level, as are we as an agency. This is a positive sign at the end of the last few months.” For the coming season, his new portfolio additions include Dsquared2 Body & Beach and Zegna Bodywear. “We also see a lot of potential in Hero7, which has just secured the licences for all James Bond film posters and all photographic material of Steve McQueen.” The collections will be presented in the Düsseldorf showroom and at the Supreme in Munich from the 20th of July. www.roomninefashionagency.de
A high-calibre license secured by Hero7 for its t-shirt collection: prints of Steve McQueen.
Michaelis Fashion Agency
FOCUS ON LEADERS René, what is currently the most important task of an agency? René Michaelis, Managing Director of Michaelis Fashion Agency: More than ever, we must create trust in order to identify the right course for our partners. A retailer recently thanked me for how cooperative and appreciative we are in dealing with their business during the crisis, which shows that personal advice has become even more crucial. Which brand cooperates particularly well? Peuterey, because the brand approaches customers proactively. It is not without reason that Peuterey has achieved 30 percent growth in the last two years. Now we are thinking about enabling virtual ordering for the brand. What else is new? Yippie Hippie has adjusted its base prices, but remains true to its “small-but-beautiful” philosophy. We will offer an Absolut Cashmere programme featuring 40 colours for late November from the end of July onwards. Customers tell us there is no better 100 percent cashmere product within the key retail price range of 169 to 229 Euros. In addition, there are blended qualities such as bamboo or linen cashmere ready for delivery in March/April.
National Geographic is a recent portfolio addition that has fully convinced Patrick Ebnöther.
The Wearhouse Fashion
FOCUS ON RELEVANCE The two new portfolio additions, added by Patrick Ebnöther at the beginning of the year, have convinced him fully despite the challenges the retail trade has recently faced: “One is National Geographic, where we were able to achieve an excellent placement rate among our customers based on the brand’s recognition and credibility with regard to sustainability. Secondly, sales of the Italian knitwear collection Daniele Fiesoli were also very pleasing.” In the upcoming ordering round, during which Patrick Ebnöther and his team are offering showroom appointments from mid-July to the end of September, the pre and main collections will be shown simultaneously for the first time, although the pre collections can only be sold until mid-August. “A challenging time like the last weeks inevitably reveals the relevance of a collection. We are expecting a drop of 20 to 30 percent in budgets. We are therefore abstaining from introducing new labels for the moment and are focusing on providing continuity with our established brands.” Labels: Caliban, Campomaggi, Circolo 1901, Daniele Fiesoli, Deus ex Machina, Duno, GMS-75, Ibeliv, Le Bonnet, Mason’s, Mey Story, National Geographic, Paltò, Save the Duck, Stone Island, White Sand The Wearhouse Fashion, Erlenbach/ Switzerland, patrick@wearhouse.ch, www.wearhouse.ch
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Peuterey: innovative and customer-oriented alike.
Labels: Absolute Cashmere, Paris, Peuterey, Yippie Hippie Michaelis Fashion Agency, Munich/Germany, mail@michaelis-fashion-agency.com, www.michaelis-fashion-agency.com
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ModeIst
“I AM INCREDIBLY PROUD…”
Handcrafted and fully recyclable: Italian statement sneakers by Yatay.
…of my customers, who have been responding with excellent ideas and such a great spirit of innovation over the past few months. Having regular customers pays off in times like these,” says Marion Hoferer. She opened her showrooms in Düsseldorf and Munich for business on the 13th of July, and will most likely keep them open until the end of August. The collections share a clear focus. “I call it ‘Four Seasons Stories’. Our products can be worn all year round and introduced to market exactly when the customer needs them. I am not a fan of new rhythms, but of products that are designed to the point and work regardless of occasion or weather because they are unique and have value.” Specifically, this means that fake fur collection Pride to be will present its first small range of dresses and blouses in the coming summer. The legwear collection Dolores will also be expanded with washed blazers in the same quality as the trousers. The agency remains true to its philosophy of harnessing small, refined brands to inject fresh momentum into its customers’ stores with new additions such as a bag collection by La Milanese, kimonos by Kleed, Italian sneakers by Yatay, and baseball caps by Yu/me. Labels: Alessandra Chamonix, Alife, Avantgarde Spirits, Chaaya, Controfigura, Dolores, Griffin, Gudrun & Gudrun, Kleed, Kooreloo, La Milanesa, Mitawa, Pride to be, Sassenbach, Sassicara, Sold out, Ulysses, Yatay, Yu/me ModeIst, Munich and Düsseldorf/Germany, info@b-kleidung.com, www.modeist.com
Modeagentur Flessa
SHOOTING STAR Claudia, your motto for the season is: “The show must go on.” Claudia Flessa, owner of Flessa Modeagentur: We have enlarged our showroom to 180 square meters in order to have more room for the collections, and to be able to offer customers individual appointments on-site. We intend to focus on our existing collections, which is why we have only added a small knitwear range from Australia to our portfolio. Mia Fratino offers long, casual sweaters made of sustainable Mongolian cashmere and a super soft, non-peeling possum/cashmere/silk blend. It is an excellent addition to our cashmere darling 360Cashmere! Which collection warrants a closer look? I would highlight our shooting star, Dualist of Paris. We started in winter, now we offer reversible all-round jackets, cool bomber jackets, and parkas made of recycled and sustainable materials: animal-free, functional, and stylish with an excellent price-performance ratio. Labels: 360Cashmere, Drome, Dualist, Ella Silla, Hálo, Hayley Menzies, Mia Fratino, Michael Stars Flessa Modeagentur, Buch am Buchrain/Germany, flessa@flessa-modeagentur.de, www.flessa-modeagentur.de
Set reacted to a changing environment by adjusting its timing.
Handelsagentur Hanna “The order, as we know it, will need to be redesigned,”
Dualist is stylish, sustainable, and functional.
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says agency owner Petra Hanna. Virtual tools such as live chats, image videos, and video presentations complement the service portfolio for digital ordering alongside look books and order books. Most portfolio brands already offer such services. Harnessing a mix of classic pre-order and short-term programmes of four to six weeks for Cotton Candy and Miss Goodlife, Petra Hanna focuses primarily on brands “that are close to demand, ready to wear, and fill a niche.” Partners such as 10days or Set had already switched to monthly programmes early on. www.handelsagenturhanna.de
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Komet und Helden
“THE EXCHANGE ALONE HAS MADE IT WORTHWHILE”
The restrictive online concept of Cuore Tricolore has proven highly beneficial for Hidnander.
Cuore Tricolore
“THE FRONT IS WHERE NOBODY KNOWS WHAT THEY ARE DOING” …laughs visionary Uwe Deinert when asked about his strategy for the coming order season. “Now concepts like the one we pursue with brands like Hidnander are paying dividends. The first step was to forego online sales completely. The second step involved online sales via the web shops of stationary retailers only – always with the promise not to feature on any platforms.” Cuore Tricolore has invested in its own structures and established itself as a true retail partner with its 365-day service. The team is now reaping the benefits. A new addition to the showroom is sneaker brand Rubirosa, a tribute to style icon Rubi Rosa, one of the most distinguished gentlemen of the 50s. On the 20th of July, Uwe Deinert opened his Düsseldorf showroom. He will also contribute yet again to the fourth season of the Style Munich showroom concept, which takes place in Munich’s “Kohlebunker” next to “Zenithhalle” from the 20th to 27th of August. Labels: Chevignon, Flotte, Hidnander, On Parle De Vous, The Seller, Paloma Barcelo, Rubirosa Cuore Tricolore, Düsseldorf/Germany, info@cuore-tricolore.com, www.cuore-tricolore.com
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Florian, you are the driving force behind Kick-Off Munich. How did that come about? Florian Ranft, co-owner of Komet und Helden: We want to keep things easy for our customers. The dates are confusing, and there is no weekend event to gather information. We have created exactly that in cooperation with other important Munich players. For me personally, I can say that the exchange between colleagues alone has made it worthwhile. Talking to colleagues about the situation and the upcoming season has been rewarding. What were the pleasant surprises of the shutdown for you? To see how committed small, sophisticated stores battle their way through with a loyal customer base. We even received repeat orders for individual products like the Baracuta G9 jacket, which proved to us that icons have a particular appeal at this time. Jeans also performed relatively stable. Are there any new additions to your portfolio? We have deferred all offers until next season. I do not think that there is a willingness to introduce new brands this season. There is so much new to communicate for the existing brands. Many have reacted positively and creatively to the crisis, and it is important for us to focus on that. Labels: 7 for all mankind, AG, Aniven, Baracuta, Barena Venezia (Men), Blauer USA, Deus Ex Machina, Dickies, Diemme, Halfboy, Hartford, Le Bonnet, ottod’Ame, Paige, Save The Duck, White Sand Komet und Helden, Munich & Düsseldorf/ Germany, www.kometundhelden.de
Crisis resistant: Baracuta was one of the brands that surprised with repeat orders during the shutdown.
“Stagnation is not a state of mind,” says Christian Klaus of Modeagentur Klaus. Consequently, there is a new addition to the portfolio: Lollys Laundry.
Agentur Klaus
“WE NEED TO SHOW SOMETHING NEW” Stagnation is not a condition that Christian Klaus considers a premise, especially after the last few weeks. In his agency’s case, that means forging full-speed ahead in its showroom in Salzburg-Bergheim from mid-July to the end of August. The brand portfolio has been enhanced by the addition of Danish womenswear line Lollys Laundry. “We were impressed by the overall fashion statement of the collection, which has a clear profile and implements a romantic look and cool rock-chic elements within an attractive price-performance ratio.” Generally speaking, delivery dates for all collections will be delayed by at least four weeks over the coming months. “We observe and promote an adjustment of delivery dates to market realities, which means that it is now possible to sell at full price closer to the time of demand and, above all, for longer. At last we are witnessing that the quality and individuality of a collection is really appreciated by the customer – something we have been imploring for years,” says Christian Klaus, describing the comparatively good status quo of his customers and his agency. The latter has hit a nerve with predominantly casual and fashionable core statements. Labels: Freedomday, Gustav, JC Sophie, Kyra & Ko, Lollys Laundry, Marc Aurel, Margittes, Oakwood, Penn & Ink N.Y., Pom Amsterdam, Resort Finest Modeagentur Klaus, Salzburg/Austria, office@modeagentur-klaus.at, www.modeagentur-klaus.at
www.MEINLIEBESGLUECK.de // IG: MEINLIEBESGLUECK
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Deluxe Distribution
FAIR FOOTWEAR The Deluxe Distribution specialists have added a new footwear label to their DACH portfolio. The Berlin-based agency is now the general representative of the wholesale business of German shoe brand Ekn. The label is among the pioneers of fair and environmentally friendly sneakers, shoes, and sandals in its home market. “The collection features around 80 different models at retail prices between 79 and 199 Euros, supplemented by limited editions such as the signature model of singer Max Herre. We are now focusing on positioning the brand at our retail partners while gradually expanding the distribution network,” says Thorsten Lange of Deluxe Distribution. The founder of Frontline, a mail order business that evolved into an online shop, joined the Deluxe Distribution management in 2019. Labels: Casall, Ecoalf, Ekn Footwear, Lez-a-Lez, Les Deux, Skfk, United Nude, Roscomar Deluxe Distribution, Berlin/Germany, info@deluxe-distribution.de, www.deluxe-distribution.de
Room von Berlin “We have to secure the budgets in Düsseldorf at the beginning of August, as we cannot wait for the trade shows in September,” argues Michaela von
Berlin with regard to her schedule for the upcoming order round. She will be in Düsseldorf and Munich from the 5th of August and 20th of August respectively. In the run-up to the trade shows, the order process is also assisted by digital tools such as Joor and Brand Boom. One of the recent success factors was the localisation of production. “Especially with casual wear by Liv Bergen, produced in Portugal, we managed to navigate recent changes successfully. The relaxed looks of our brands, which are capable of swift course changes, meet the spirit of the times.” www.roomvonberlin.de
Joggers and sweatshirts: casual looks by Liv Bergen proved popular during the lockdown.
Sundek is under new management this season. “It is a Formula 1 car that finally has the right driver behind the wheel,” says Matthias Schwarte.
Agentur Schwarte
“IT WORKS!”
Ekn is one of the most renowned German fair footwear pioneers. The label not only offers leather footwear, but also a vegan range.
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Matthias, is the more relaxed timing being met with acceptance? The August sale date is very appealing, almost a throwback to the old days. If we remained a mere four weeks behind in retail, we would have really achieved something, but that would require retailers to play ball in terms of first lines. What makes you feel particularly optimistic right now? Our outdoor specialists such as Parajumpers and People of Shibuya have reacted swiftly by increasing the proportion of so-called hybrid items in their collections. They are playing out the season flawlessly with a broader range of sportswear. Your insider tip for the season? Sundek. It will be the first collection since the brand was taken over by Simona Babieri and Tiziano Sgarbi, the creators of Twinset. The Californian lifestyle brand has fantastic heritage. It is like a Formula 1 car that finally has the right driver behind the wheel. They are evolving way beyond beachwear, which is extremely exciting. Labels: Armani Exchange, 59 inches, AT.P.CO, Balr, Collezione 01, Daniele Fiesoli, Fil Noir, Mason Garments, Parajumpers, People of Shibuya, Saucony, S.T.R.A., Sundek, Weber + Weber Agentur Schwarte, Munich/Germany, office@agentur-schwarte.de, www.agentur-schwarte.de
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Die Hinterhofagentur
“OUR GLASS IS ALWAYS HALF FULL…”
Modeagentur Cocron
REGIONAL WINS
“…but it depends what is in it,” laughs Dominik Meuer. His credo is to start into the season optimistically. In Die Hinterhofagentur’s case, it starts in the first week of August in Düsseldorf. “For the spring/summer 2021 season, our brands offer a digital ordering option, although the majority of our customers prefer to view the collections in person. The sample collections will be streamlined a little as everyone refocuses on their strengths. We strive to provide an effective and interesting proposal in conjunction with our suppliers. We plan to concentrate on important portfolio brands.” The consumer climate index for the second quarter of 2020 confirms what Dominik Meuer has observed in recent weeks: “The smaller, individual, and owner-managed stores are recovering quicker, as is proven by their positive feedback. The customer relies all the more on trusted retailers. This is an incredible opportunity.” Labels: AdHoc, Bob, Des Petits Hauts, Goodmatch, Koike, Lightning Bolt, Manuel Ritz, Monaco Duck, Original Vintage Style, The Jacksons, Portofiori, Wool & Co Die Hinterhofagentur, Munich/Germany, info@diehinterhofagentur.de, www.diehinterhofagentur.de
The entrepreneurial members of the Salzburg-based Cocron family have been noticing an ever-increasing demand for products manufactured in Europe in small quantities. “The most obvious example is the continued success of our Italian brands, such as Vicario Cinque. The collection is manufactured in small factories in the greater Vicenza area, using environmentally friendly dyes,” says Gerhard Cocron. “The mood is improving again. It was essential for us to remain in close contact with both our customers and suppliers,” Uli Cocron adds. There are first signs of optimism for the incoming order season. “Our suppliers are capable of reacting quickly to new developments, and the range of in-season programmes will increase, even on a digital level. We have arranged many individual appointments at our showroom in Salzburg between July and September,” Uli Cocron reveals. Labels: #7.0 Settepuntozero, Apart, Cat Noir, Chiara B., Fine Mood, Ibu Jewels, Stegmann Hamburg, Vicario Cinque, Zanetti 1965, Zaubermond Modeagentur Cocron, Salzburg/Austria, office@cocronmodeagentur.at, www.cocronmodeagentur.at
Eins Zwei Zwei Eins
CLIMATE NEUTRAL BASICS
Constant interaction is a top priority. Collections such as Vicario Cinque can respond to retailer feedback at short notice. Modeagentur Cocron acts as a knowledgeable intermediary.
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Danish brand Organic Basics of Copenhagen is a new addition to the Swiss agency’s portfolio. The product range consists of underwear and basics, for example t-shirts and sweatshirts made of high quality fabrics sourced from organic farming, renewable resources, and recycled materials – certified and manufactured in Europe. In 2015, Organic Basics secured its initial funding via a crowdfunding campaign in less than 24 hours. The label has been developing steadily ever since. New items for the summer include swimming trunks and bikinis. Organic Basics will soon launch a denim line that allows the easy removal of rivets and buttons to facilitate recycling at the end of the life cycle. Labels: 7 For All Mankind, Ecoalf, Organic Basics, Knowledge Cotton Apparel, Warm Me, Happy Socks, Mystique, Alto Milano, Wood’d, SA.AL & Co. Eins Zwei Zwei Eins Fashion Agency GmbH, Zurich/Switzerland, severin@einszweizweieins.ch, www.einszweizweieins.ch
Organic Basics focuses on aspects such as health, environment, and social issues, which are becoming increasingly important for a growing number of consumers.
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Agentur Stefan Wittmann
TONGUE-IN-CHEEK CLASSICS Stefan Wittmann’s agency is assuming the distribution of Brosbi, a label created by Munich-based brothers Dennis and Yves-Oliver Wilke, in numerous German territories. It will offer its very first independent women’s collection of around 35 pieces from summer ‘21 onwards. The men’s line comprises about 70 styles, of which especially t-shirts, sweatshirts, and shirts have so far been bought by women as unisex pieces. In addition, the agency is responsible for the distribution of Canadian Classics, Collezione No 01, Daniele Fiesoli, Ecoalf, Date, La Residence, Les Deux, and Litchi in various areas of Germany. Labels: Brosbi, Happy, La Feé Maraboutée, La Petite Francaise, Nalho, Schoe, Sylt Bohème Agentur Stefan Wittmann, Düsseldorf/Germany, T 0049.211.58589690, stefan.wittmann@agentur-wittmann.de, www.agentur-wittmann.de
Brosbi is best known for its humorous labelling and self-ironic prints.
Heritage Showroom
“KEEP IT SIMPLE” They had the right idea in 2019. Malte Kötteritz and Michael Brockmann advanced the digitisation of their agency earlier than others. They did so to an extent that allowed them to benefit from their efforts enormously over the last few weeks. They were able to provide their services without limitations. “In our genre, customers want to be able to touch the qualities,” says Brockmann. This is proven by a packed schedule featuring appointments between the 8th and 12th of August – first in Düsseldorf, then in Munich. In close partnership with their brands, Heritage Showroom embraces a clear credo: “Do it well, but keep it simple. It is difficult to communicate products that require long-winded explanation and collections that are too complex. This applies to both the order process and the sales floor. We focus on core competences, on quality instead of complexity.” Brockmann also expects that his clients have not reserved budgets for experiments. “We believe this is the wrong time for us to introduce new brands. We prefer to deepen our relationship with the brands we welcomed last season: Warm Me, Myths, and The Nim. They all have enormous potential.” Labels: Circolo 1901, Mey Story, Myths, The Nim, Warm Me Heritage Showroom, Munich/Germany, info@heritage-showroom.de, www.heritage-showroom.de
Digital service campaign in Berlin: Mela Bauer has designed her own customer service platform.
“We and our customers need to be present on all channels,” says Mela Bauer. She reacted
promptly when customer enquiries began to pile up. Within a very short time, her agency compiled online tutorials that explain digital applications in a simple way. Digital tools were also incorporated into the order round, which started in the Berlin showroom on the 15th of July. It is supported by a virtual order festival featuring collection presentations, order dates, catwalk shows, designer interviews, webinars, and discussion rounds – live or on screen. www.melagence.com Highlight of the incoming order round: Heritage Showroom developed a jacket with a unique fit for German customers in collaboration with Circolo 1901.
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INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOW FOR FASHION, SHOES AND ACCESSORIES
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Gallery FASHION & Gallery SHOES, August 30 – September 1, 2020 Showroom Concept, August 28 – September 1, 2020 AREAL BÖHLER l DÜSSELDORF
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Petra Esparza McAlpine Agency “There is still a question mark over Düsseldorf,” says Petra Esparza
McAlpine. The new showroom format devised by Petra McAlpine and Klara Moormann of Moormann & Co in the style of a multi-agency show, entitled Munich Connect, will take place again this year. The two founders are once again inviting befriended agencies, such as Room von Berlin, and selected designers to present their collections in the former Münchner Reithalle, now called Utopia, from the 20th to 25th of August. www.esparza-mcalpine.de
Meta Pesch “It requires an excellent salesperson to persuade a buyer to order without an original sample,” says Meta Pesch comment-
ing on the digitisation of the entire order process for traditional costume collection Alpenherz. “They have promoted digitisation and invested in the future. From August 2020 onwards, our retailers will have access to a comfortable B2B pre-order system to complement the B2B online shop. We welcome this development greatly.” In terms of content, the collection continues to evolve towards a more fashionable alignment, which has now led to the first fashion stores being acquired as customers. www.metapesch.com
Izmee aims to be the new it-piece. The innovative drinking bottle brand hails from Italy.
D-Tails
“UPHOLDING OUR VALUES” Patrick, it is going to be a very different and exciting order season. What are you planning for D-Tails? Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz, owner of D-Tails: It is zero hour and we can start over, but still need to uphold our values. Our values before the crisis remain the same, only reinforced: service, authenticity, European products, real content, and personal contact. The latter is all the more important today. In addition to the Milan showroom and company headquarters in the Loft Accaierie Breda, we remain available for the German-speaking markets throughout the season with Janaina Rothschild and GC Coppolecchia. We also plan to organise real order days in cities such as Hamburg, Frankfurt, Vienna, and Salzburg. We intend to present our collections locally, thus relieving buyers. As always, the showrooms in Munich and Düsseldorf remain active and we plan to participate in the following confirmed events: Gallery Düsseldorf, Supreme Munich, Micam, White Milano, and Tranoi Paris. Any changes in the brand portfolio? Here, too, we are picking up where we left off before the crisis. We would like to continue to present collections that excel through uniqueness, high European quality standards, fairness, and a great deal of style. Izmee, a “Made in Italy” drinking bottle destined to become a fashion item, is a new addition. Labels: ACBC, Alexander Smith, Andreas 1947, Anita Bilardi, Barba Napoli, Beltepà, Bitossi, Fabi, Fracap, Gallo 1927, Il Bisonte, Izmee, Kaya Sophie Milano, RRD Donna, Michael Coal, Sealup, Wushu D-Tails, Munich & Düsseldorf/Germany, info@d-tails.de, www.d-tails.de
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Jackets and skirts also appeal to fashion boutiques: the traditional costume collection by Alpenherz.
KLAUSER – Lindberghstraße 3, D-80939 München – infoline Tel +49 (0)89 231199-70
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With Danish brand Minimum, Ben And welcomes a serviceoriented collection.
Ben And
DIGITAL SHOWROOMING PIONEER Ben Botas has a well-defined strategy: Ben And 2.0. This implies a long-term plan and investing in the future immediately. One available tool is digitisation, as in a truly digital showroom. On the 15th of July, the team launched the Evently concept for a fully integrated, virtual showroom, developed especially for Ben And in collaboration with IT experts. The agency now welcomes all customers who cannot make their way to the showroom online. A three-dimensional virtual image of the Munich showroom awaits, in which customers can move around at the click of a mouse. Upon entering a room containing a collection, every single piece can be selected individually and viewed as a 360-degree image. The virtual showroom visit is complemented by a live chat function, which enables the agency team to advise their clients personally in real time, and to record the order. “In a second step, we are planning to further expand the platform into a fully integrated mode that will also allow the order process to proceed digitally,” says Ben Botas, who sees Evently as an ideal extension. More Room for All Brands “I expect to see at least 80 percent of our customers in the showrooms in Munich and Düsseldorf by the end of August,” says Ben Botas. There is more space for visitors, too. In Munich, Ben And presents the men’s collections in a stylish old mansion, while womenswear is on display in the adjacent studio. The total showroom area of 900 square metres has recently been extensively renovated. In Düsseldorf, too, a new 300 square metre showroom has been opened in the harbour district. This is the home of young fashion collections Na-kd, Gina Tricot, and Kendall & Kylie. “This means that we have increased our showroom space in Düsseldorf to a total of 1,000 square metres. We have developed very well over the last three years, which I am particularly pleased about in these times,” Ben Botas adds.
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More room: In Düsseldorf, Ben And has expanded its total showroom space to 1,000 square metres by adding an additional showroom in the harbour district. In Munich, the agency boasts more than 900 square metres.
The Sleeping Princess There are also a few changes in the brand portfolio to report. For one, there is the addition of Danish brand Minimum. It is a sustainable, comprehensible, and price-performance-oriented womenswear and menswear collection with a two-month interval and an extensive NOS range. In addition, Ben And has agreed to represent La Martina, an Italian classic, across the DACH region as of spring/summer 2021. “We see enormous potential in this case, because La Martina is a strong name. We intend to develop the collection for our markets and restore modernity. We are incidentally already working on the AW collection.” Labels: Axel Arrigato, Filippa K, Gina Tricot, Hvisk, Kendall & Kylie, La Martina, Limitato, Mason’s, Minimum, Moose Knuckels, Na-kd, Nu-In, Paul x Claire, Second Female, Stefan Brandt, Stutterheim, Zoe Ona Ben And, Munich & Düsseldorf/Germany, agency@ben-and.com, www.ben-and.com
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sassenbach_style
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Agentur Klauser
Room With A View
NEW SHORT-NOTICE SPECIALIST
“SUSTAINABILITY IS OUR PATH”
Agentur Klauser now represents the label Kontatto. The short-notice Italian womenswear specialist has launched a knitwear range in many different styles for autumn. At a mark-up of 3.0, purchase prices range from 29 to 32 Euros. In future, the two main collections are complemented by two capsule collections at Christmas and Easter, as well as by new merchandise every week. The latter is immediately available ex stock. Blouse specialist Blooming also offers customers the possibility to order products at short notice in an uncomplicated manner. Besides classic white cotton blouses in three silhouettes, the range includes numerous silk tops in many different colours. Free categorisation, no minimum order – delivered within four weeks. Labels: 2Stars, Bagnoli Sartoria Napoli, BCC:ed, Blooming, Briglia, Original Bombers, Care Label, Dragon Diffusion, Felicia Magno, Filippo de Laurentiis, FourTen, Giangi, In the Box, Kontatto, Les Tricots de Léa, Les Copains, Lunaria, Majestic Filatures, Manrico Cashmire, Maurizio Miri, Pierre Louis Mascia, Noize, Openspace by Faking, Salvatore Piccolo, Teezy, Ventcouvert Agentur Klauser, Munich/Germany, info@kirstenklauser.de, www.klauserpressoffice.com
Christian, what is the motto of the season? Christian Obojes, owner of Room With A View: Everything will be fine. (laughs) It is a bit up and down. We hear something different every day, from extremely positive news to restrained reactions. I am encouraged by the joy with which my employees like Christopher Mönch or Sassi Weissbacher approach the season. Four new brands in one go? Yes, because brands such as Organic Basic and Colorful Standard are perfectly suited to our philosophy. They are sustainable collections, but also genuine 365-day labels that are not season-dependent. What makes you happy? The positive economic outlook for brands like Ecoalf or Veja, and that the crisis has had no adverse effect on sustainability. On the contrary, sustainability is our path.
Blooming and Agentur Klauser provide the retail trade with goods on demand at short notice.
Labels: Anne Delaigle, Casall, Colorful Standard, Cristina beautiful life, Devotion, Ecoalf, Happy Socks, Krakatau, Les Deux, Lovelies, Moonboot, Moose Knuckles, National Geographic, Organic Basic, Pomandere, RRD, Stand Studio, Steamery, Tomorrow Denim, Veja, Warm Me Room With A View, Salzburg/Austria, office@roomwithaview.at, www.roomwithaview.at
Haven collaborates exclusively with eco brands.
Haven
FULL SERVICE SUSTAINABILITY Tina Bächle’s sales agency Haven, which specialises in sustainable labels, welcomes its customers in six locations: at its home base in Berlin, in Hamburg, in Munich, in Stuttgart, in Düsseldorf, and in Nuremberg. The order round runs from early August to mid-September. “The picture emerging in retail is highly diverse: from retailers who remain very cautious to store owners who view this crisis as an opportunity for sustainable fashion,” says Tina Bächle. In the opinion of Haven’s managing director, it is clear who the beneficiaries of this crisis are: “I believe that brands that maintained a presence with campaigns, social media, or newsletters during the shutdown have benefited. Many retailers have also shown great initiative with Instagram live shopping, online shops, delivery services, or voucher campaigns for regular customers.” Labels: Cus, Fremdformat, Hydrophil, Mud Jeans, Nine to Five, Thinking Mu, Vatter Haven Vertriebs GmbH, Nuremberg/Germany, hello@haven-agency.de, www.haven-agency.de
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“Brands like Ecoalf or Veja have proven themselves during the crisis, one more reason to further strengthen this pillar of our agency,” says Christian Obojes. Pictured: Colorful Standard.
Parajumpers • Daniele Fiesoli • Collezione 01 • Fil Noir • Sundek • People of Shibuya • Weber+Weber • BALR. • Mason Garments • AT.P.CO • Parajumpers • Daniele Fiesol • Collezione 01 • Fil Noir • Sundek • People of Shibuya • Weber+Weber • BALR. • Mason Garments • AT.P.CO • Parajumpers • Daniele Fiesoli • Collezione 01 • Fil Noir • Sundek • People of Shibuya • Weber+Weber • BALR. • Mason Garments • AT.P.CO • Parajumpers • Daniele Fiesoli • Collezione 01 • Fil Noir • Sundek • People of Shibuya • Weber+Weber • BALR. • Mason Garments • AT.P.CO • Parajumpers • Daniele Fiesoli • Collezione 01 • Fil Noir • Sundek • People of Shibuya • Weber+Weber • BALR. • Mason Garments • AT.P.CO
Heinrich-Kley-Straße 6 • 80807 München T +49 - 89 - 35 80 57 6 • office@agentur-schwarte.de • www.agentur-schwarte.de Showroom Düsseldorf: Kaiserswertherstraße 132 • 40474 Düsseldorf
WANT IT
Excitement and diversity, innovation and normality – the new stars in the brand sky shine brightly. A clearly defined credo is the be-all and end-all.
Closed Cycle
Rifò. Rifò is Tuscan for “io rifaccio” and
means “I make new, I renew”. The label from Prato was launched in 2017 with the support of a crowdfunding via Ulule and has been growing steadily ever since with its fair collections. The two young entrepreneurs Niccolò Cirpiani and Clarissa Cecchi were always convinced that fashion must be sustainable, local, and social. The brand recycles cashmere to make sweaters, hats, and scarves. In 2019, denim items such as sweatshirts, jackets, and shirts made from old jeans were introduced. The recycling process and the creation of new collections is performed manually by experienced “artigiani” in Prato. Moreover, the #2lovePrato initiative ensures that two Euros go to the city’s charitable organisations for every Rifò piece sold. Rifò proves that circle economy is possible and, above all, cool. Rifò, Prato/Italy, ciao@rifo-lab.com, www.rifo-lab.com
Fashion for Future
Hey Soho. Transparency, sustainability,
Italy x Far East
Wushu Ruyi. Wushu has been an authority in the realm of sneakers for 35 years. The Italian label was launched by the Lorini brothers in 1985. Wushu itself is one of the oldest forms of martial arts. The Wushu philosophy had fascinated the Lorini brothers as early as the late 1970s, which is when they introduced the sport to Italy. What they were lacking was suitable training footwear. The result was the first Wushu shoe with Ruyi branding. Ruyi symbolises happiness, joy, and perfection. In its latest sneaker collection, Wushu focuses on two models for men and women, which can be ordered in a variety of colour and material combinations. Wushu Ruyi, Milan/Italy, info@wushuruyi.com, www.wushuruyi.com
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and fair trade – the principles of Hey Soho’s procurement and production processes are well-defined. With statements such as “Catch Me”, “Good Girl”, or “Play”, Hey Soho’s shirts reflect an affirmative attitude towards life. Simultaneously, founder Elise Seitz’s SoHo reference hints at a strong influence by the cosmopolitan districts in New York and Hong Kong. “We strive to inspire people to change fashion, to go out and stand up for a good cause. Every little step counts, and everyone can make it!” The current unisex collection includes t-shirts with retail prices starting at 49 Euros. Sweaters and hoodies start at 89 Euros. Sizes range from XS to XXL. Hey Soho, Hamburg/Germany, info@hey-soho.com, www.hey-soho.com
WANT IT
Everyday Wear
Sold Out. The name is a promise! With
Sold Out, the creators of trouser brand Dolores are providing their customers with a wonderful tool to increase receipts and, at the same time, inspire customers with beautiful, affordable, universal pieces. Comfortable tops, casual trousers, coveralls, and dresses in fresh colours cover the entire range of everyday life from home to nightlife. The three collections, which will be delivered from November onwards, are themed: loungewear, cashmere touch, and bedtime stories. Retail prices never exceed 150 Euros. The label is pursuing a selective sales strategy in cooperation with ModeIst, allowing independent retailers to outsmart large multinationals. ModeIst, Munich & Düsseldorf/Germany, T 0049.151.64506485, info@b-kleidung.com, www.modeist.com
Gio Giacobbe
Edoardo Iannuzzi
One Sole, One Hundred Shoes
ACBC. The brand name ACBC stands for Anything Can Be Changed. The Italian footwear label takes its name very seriously. The two young founders, Gio Giacobbe (CEO and named one of the TOP 100 managers by Forbes Italia in 2019) and Edoardo Iannuzzi (Creative Director), plan to conquer the shoe market and change the world with their so-called Modular Sneakers. The principle: the sole can be connected to up to 100 shafts with a zipper and can thus be easily and repeatedly replaced. The so-called Zipshoe™ is extremely versatile thanks to the countless “skin variations”. It can be sporty, casual, even elegant. Another topic that the spirited start-up duo addresses with these models is sustainability. All materials are of plant-based origin: corn, grapes, eucalyptus, or algae. All old shoes that are returned by customers are recycled and reused for playground flooring. This shoe concept has a bright future, as confirmed by awards such as “Best Startup 2020” in the BHeroes TV programme (broadcast on Sky) and “Innovator Dell’Anno” from Wpp, Amici della Triennale, and Triennale Milano. In addition, the label can boast successful collaborations with brands such as Armani, Moschino, and MTV. Everything can be changed and improved. ACBC illustrates how. ACBC, Milan/Italy, T 0039.02.49702903, ciao@acbc.com, www.acbc.com
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Francophile
Meggy K. Munich. Modern architec-
Eco Scandi
Storm & Marie. Rebellious and delicate, untamed yet elegant. Danish brand Storm & Marie thrives on contrary and authentic fashion. Signe Elisabeth Vedel and Kim Vedel Hansen launched their brand in 2010. The top priority has always been diversity. The feminine designs are influenced by the typical Scandinavian attitude towards life and environmental accountability. Accordingly, the materials follow the principle of sustainability. The models are not subject to fleeting trends. Express collections have no place in the brand’s philosophy. Instead, Storm & Marie focuses on quality and classic design that can be easily combined. Purchase prices range from 18 to 73 Euros. The packaging material, made of biodegradable plastic, is equally sustainable. The tags are made of stone paper, which requires less water in production than conventional paper. Storm & Marie, Copenhagen/Denmark, kim@stormandmarie.com, www.stormandmarie.com
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ture and art inspire the collections by Meggy K. Munich. Owner Meggy Kaiser primarily draws such inspiration from travelling. She harbours a special affection for France, which is why the label’s handbags are always given French women’s names. From Audrey to Zoè, the models stand for clear lines, luxurious craftsmanship, and timeless elegance. Each accessory is designed with the ambition to create a faithful companion for many years. The foundation is a sustainable and ethically correct design philosophy. This includes, among other aspects, the consistent processing of vegetable-tanned leather to minimise the brand’s impact on the environment. Meggy K. Munich works exclusively with producers who guarantee fair and healthy working conditions. Seasonal reordering is possible subject to stock availability. At a mark-up of 2.6, recommended retail prices range from 79 to 499 Euros. Meggy K. Munich, Munich/Germany, a.larontonda@meggy-k-munich.com, www.meggy-k-munich.com
Sunshine
Bagni Luisa. The Milan label was created in 2019 based on an idea developed by communications expert Luisa Bertoldo. After ten years of brand development for others, Luisa was ready to launch her own. The current Bagni Luisa collection offers four different t-shirt designs for young and old. The organic cotton pieces feature the “Italo flair” of Mediterranean beaches. They will certainly make you crave ice cream, pizza, and the sea. The pieces in retro-look are unisex and can currently be purchased online and at Amore Shop in Berlin. However, the desire to gain a foothold in Germany is great, especially as the country is known for its love of Italy. Soon Bagni Luisa will surprise with a collaboration with swimsuit label “Mimì à la mer”. The label will offer jewellery from autumn 2021 onwards. Bagni Luisa, Milan/Italy, bagniluisa@luisabertoldo.com, www.bagniluisa.com
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WANT IT
Parisian Chic
Ami Paris. Alexandre Mattiussi, the chief designer and founder of Ami Paris, believes that “9” is his lucky number. It is set to bring us joy once more in 2020, the year of the label’s ninth anniversary. Mattiussi was a fashion designer in Paris before he opted for self-employment, meaning he has a wealth of industry experience. It therefore comes as no surprise that Barneys New York, Le Bon Marchè Paris, and online giant Mr Porter ordered the first collection on the spot. Today, Ami Paris is considered a household name in department stores such as Harrods London or Galeries Lafayette Paris. The brand also runs its own stores, from Paris to Hong Kong. Ami Paris’ style is best described as pleasant, approachable, and modest. At the same time, the brand quite deliberately oscillates between the luxury and creative segments. Instead of elaborate red carpet collections, the label focuses on Parisian chic at affordable prices. Orders can be placed online. Ami Paris, Paris/France, info@amiparis.fr, www.amiparis.com
Sneaker Statement
Yatay. Umberto de Marco is a member of the entrepreneurial de Marco dynasty. They run Coronet of Milan, a business which specialises in the production of artificial leather. The full-circle approach of his sneaker brand Yatay, which was launched in 2018, covers all aspects from production to recycling/upcycling: a CO2 neutral factory, artificial leather made of 75 percent sustainable materials (50 percent corn, 25 percent recycled plastic), and an appeal to return used shoes to ensure that the rubber soles can be upcycled. For every pair of shoes sold, Yatay plants a tree in Kenya in partnership with One Tree Planted. The unisex sneakers are available in a hightop and low-top version in up to 12 different colours. Retail prices start at 200 Euros. Yatay is listed at reference retailers such as Selfridges and L’Eclareur. Yatay, Milan/Italy, hello@yatayatay.com, www.yatayatay.com
Boundless
Kleed. Carolina Guedes Cruz draws all her inspiration from Africa, which she describes as a world of boundless wonder. The colours, the prints, the fascination for wild animals – she absorbs them all in her designs. “Kleed is a small, refined collection of kimonos, caftans, dresses, and pyjamas made of pure silk, manufactured with the utmost care in Portugal,” says Marion Hoferer of fashion agency ModeIst. Kleed is her latest portfolio arrival from southern Europe. Sustainability is as important to Carolina Guedes Cruz as the quality of her handcrafted designs produced in Lisbon. The small-scale collections consist of around 20 pieces only. At a markup of 2.7, retail prices range from 200 to 250 Euros. A percentage of the profit goes to Save the Rhino. Kleed, Lisbon/Portugal, T 00351.917.687271, info@kleedkimonos.com, www.kleedkimonos.com 072
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WANT IT
Made in Five Ways
La Milanesa. The La Milanesa bag collection draws its creativity from the hidden Milanese workshops in the “5 Vie” district. Here, designer Cinzia Macchi explores natural materials from which she creates her extraordinary bags in an upcycling process. Pieces full of joy and elegance. In 2018, Cinzia Macchi debuted with her first La Milanesa designs at the Salone del Mobile design fair in Milan. At the heart of the collections are various shoppers made of recycled plastic and jute, dressed in leftover fabric sources from Milan’s artisan workshops. The results are incredibly fashionable bags made of brocade, cotton, or linen featuring small details like feathers, borders, fringes, or even raffia. Due to the elaborate, handmade manufacturing process, each piece has a unique character. “Every creation is unique and has its own style. The craftsmanship, as well as the search for special fabrics and materials, always evoke something: a place, an object, a smell, a person from the present or past, other cultures that touch the heart,” the designer says. The heart is a good cue for La Milanesa, as creator Cinzia Macchi helps where she can. Be it during the Covid 19 pandemic with the “Italia Bag” capsule, part of the proceeds of which went to the San Donato hospital group, or through her collaboration with the “Fare per Bene”, which fights for the professional reintegration of abused women. La Milanesa, Milan/Italy, T 0039.351.9724577, info@lamilanesa.it, www.lamilanesa.it
Richness
Beltepá. The label is named after
Beltepá, a district of the Uzbek capital Tashkent where the Alotto-De Marchi family of Turin had the idea for the eponymous brand. Antonella, the founder of the label, was immediately fascinated by the richness of local fabrics and, thanks to her meeting with the seamstress Nigora, she was able to learn plenty about the country’s traditional sewing and embroidery. It soon became clear to her that she wanted to combine these fine and elaborate fabrics with Italian creativity and fashion know-how, and that she would thus finally fulfil her dream of having her own fashion label. The family business has been producing caftans and coats made of Uzbek velvet, wool, cotton, atlas, adras, barmal, and bekasab since 2018 – exclusively in Italy. Each piece is unique: the perfect liaison of oriental colour explosion and Italian handicraft. D-Tails, Munich/Germany, info@d-tails.de, www.beltepa.com
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w w w. m o d e i s t . c o m ·
MODEist zeigt:
modeistagency
WANT IT
Picture Book
Ro’Skinwear. One piece looks like
body art, printed with fonts, all kind of symbols, and graphics. Rosanna Fedele, an Italian jazz singer and designer, strives for her label to blend fashion and art, thus creating truly unique pieces of clothing. What began in 2014 with leggings and mesh shirts has since been complemented with jerseys and skirts, as well as – since autumn/winter 2020/21 – knitwear. The bi-annual collections are manufactured in Italy. The customer list boasts 40 names in the label’s home market and another 60 throughout Europe. The latter include Different Fashion Sylt, Pool Constance, and Ruby Linz. At a mark-up between 2.8 and 3.0, purchase prices for shirts start at 45 Euros. Rosso18 s.r.l.s., Rome/Italy, info@ro-skinwear.com, www.ro-skinwear.com
Effect Yarn Specialists
Lanificio dell’Olivo. Rodolfo
Querci founded Lanificio dell’Olivo in 1947 in Prato, originally a city of fabric manufacturers. Querci, however, had other plans. He wanted to produce yarns – and very special ones at that. This was the beginning of one of the most successful stories of yarn production in Tuscany. The company history is marked by milestones: brushed yarns in the 1950s, the processing of exquisite fibres such as alpaca and mohair in the 1960s, the family co-founded Pitti Filati in the 1970s, and the international breakthrough in the 1980s. In the 1990s, the women in the family gained control and refocused on the women’s market. The 2000s brought about new technologies and a specialisation in “filati fantasia” (“effect yarn”). Today, the company is strongly committed to sustainability. The company’s Going Green programme is making concrete changes in terms of social responsibility, reducing the use of chemicals, and optimising energy consumption. Lanificio dell’Olivo S.p.a., Florence/Italy, info@lanificiodellolivo.com, www.lanificiodellolivo.com
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Urban Accessories
Paprcuts. A little crowdfunding project
hits the big time. Launched in Berlin in 2014, Paprcuts has grown considerably in recent years and now offers a wide range of accessories. The lifestyle products such as wallets, watches, and smartphonewww cases are made of tear-resistant and waterproof Tyvek material. It is as thin as leather, yet every bit as robust. Paprcuts strives to make the world a happier place with its colourful accessories, which is why each model is printed with different designs. A production facility in Friedrichshain is in line with the sustainability principle. The young business promotes the local economy and celebrates diversity with an international team. Paprcuts distributes its own products. Retailers can access a B2B platform that allows reorders at any time. Purchase prices range from 5.99 to 19.99 Euros. Sneakers were added to the portfolio recently and are now also available to retailers. Paprcuts, Berlin/Germany, info@paprcuts.de, www.paprcuts.de
THE LONGVIEW
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THE LONGVIEW
Endless, based in London, has become a permanent fixture in international street art, not least because of his thematization of major fashion brands and icons.
Endless “Magazines Are Our Bibles, Shops Our Churches, and Celebrities Our Gods” Even his discoverer was a man of fashion: Ed Burstell of Liberty London spotted the art of Endless in the streets of London. The street artist scored his first big coup when he designed the shop windows for the famous London department store. His work, which is heavily influenced by pop culture, often features popular symbols and logos. Endless portrays a world in which brands and stars are the new gods – and at the same time critically examines this world through the lens of his own artistic creativity. He has collaborated with art greats such as Gilbert and George, and also worked for brands such as Fiorucci and Karl Lagerfeld. Capsules with fashion brands are just as much part of his craft as the design of stores, bars, and murals. Stephan Huber sat down with Endless to chat about new and future gods. Interview: Stephan Huber. Text: Manfred Thurner. Photos: Endless
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M
aybe let us start with the most difficult aspect, namely trying to classify art, or even the social function of art. Why or what for does society actually need art? Art allows us to record a moment in time, with no limit creatively. Art as an action is totally unique when compared to other means of documentation. It’s subjective. This is why some form of art has always existed - from the beginning of time, through to the modern world. People have always needed art and I can’t see that changing any time soon. What can art trigger? Making art can trigger a wide range of feelings, as does viewing it. I produce my best work when I am excited and feeling a positive energy from a new idea. As an artist, you always hope these feelings can trigger the same kind of energy with the viewer. What can art do? Or is there something that art is not allowed to do? Art can do nothing, or art can do everything. I have always said that art is there for people to get what they need from it, whatever that may be. Why is street art today not only socially accepted, but has even become a determining part of the global art market? The media has brought street art into the mainstream, giving it value. The art dealers and galleries changed the cultural value into monetary value, and now it is viewed in a completely different way as people think they can profit from it, so it is taken more seriously. Does that take away the credibility that characterises street art so much? The best part of street art is the fact that it is free for everyone to see and enjoy (or hate). There are no social boundaries, no snobby gallery employee reluctantly offering you a brochure and nobody telling you what to take from it. Hopefully it will continue this way and people will not start to only consider what the piece is “worth”. At the same time, we experience the powerful role that art and street art play in so-called “peripheral countries”. Not least thanks to the multiplier social media. How do you experience that? The beauty of street art and art in general is that you can make art from anything, you just need your imagination. Every country has their own “art scene” – the rest of the world may just not know about it. Street art has become a cultural
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phenomenon and social media has enabled that. If street art brings art fans to a country they would not normally visit, it would widen their cultural knowledge, which can only be a good thing. Why Endless? I first used the name Endless to denote my creative thought process, but it has since taken on a new meaning within the artwork, to give depth to the philosophy of the work. The name serves as a constant reminder that creativity is limitless – and with my brain pretty much working in overdrive 24/7, it is pretty apt. Your work is confusing in many ways, in the best sense. You play with elements and icons of modern consumer society, but this is never obvious or instructive. You do not seem to judge. But it is probably much better if you explain the background and content of your art than if I dare to interpret it. You have got it right – my work conveys neither a positive nor negative message, but rather a neutral, artistic representation of the world I see around me. In this modern world, our priorities have changed. Renaissance paintings mostly consist of religious depictions, so I take this idea and apply it to the modern world. The magazines are our bibles, the shops our churches and the celebrities our Gods. I also comment on the advertising industry throughout my work, it is an interesting topic. Why did fashion become such an important topic in your work? And may I add the question: What is your personal connection to fashion? I see billboard adverts and shopfront window displays as a version of street art – we, as a society, worship the brands, almost in the form of a “new era religion”, which we are constantly being told that we “need”. Fashion and branding is something we see every day and we probably do not give it much thought. By portraying the fashion models/ designers as icons of worship, I am connecting classic art to a modern day audience. My personal connection to fashion is just from an artistic perspective mainly, derived from what I have seen in magazines throughout the years – I like to see the bridging of the gap between fashion, art, and design. At this point I would like to have a deeper look at some of your works connected to fashion. The Chapel Logo is kind of a common thread in your work and it seems to be much more than just a tongue-in-cheek decorative element. What is that all about? By changing “Chanel” to “Chapel”, I am simply commenting on the way the brand is worshiped
“The best part of street art is the fact that it is free for everyone to see and enjoy (or hate).”
SUSTAINABLE PREMIUM KNITWEAR SINCE 1973 S/S 2021 WWW.PHILPETTER.COM
THE LONGVIEW
by so many on a global scale. The perfume bottle shape is instantly recognisable and iconic as an object. People see the logo and the shape of the bottle and instantly connect with it in some way or another. I love the fact that such a simple shape can become so well-known and attached to something that represents “luxury”. It is all about advertising. The almost symbiotic relationship between art and fashion is not new. I believe a completely new quality of this relationship is developing, mainly because fashion is desperately looking for new content and narratives, and hopes to find them in art. Can that work? Some would say that fashion IS art. There is a fine line. Perhaps down the line as we see positive changes in the fashion world, the art and fashion spheres will collide even more so, with bespoke and one off hand-painted items of clothing? Who knows where it could go. What is the attraction of collaborations with well-known brands or large companies? Any artist would be lying if they said they did not care about exposure. Reaching a wider audience with your creations can only be a good thing. My recent collaboration with Karl Lagerfeld was an opportunity I jumped at, as I often depict Karl throughout my works, he was an icon in so many ways, with a multitude of talents and unbelievable work ethic. After putting up some street art of Karl in Amsterdam, the Karl Lagerfeld team reached out to me (prior to his death) and asked if I wanted to paint a mural in their head office, I ended up collaborating with a capsule collection of t-shirts and hoodies. The people who wear the clothing are walking billboards for my art, enabling it to be seen by a wider audience and perhaps a different demographic. Big brands are usually more ethical too, which is important. Let me come back to the social or political role of art: The fashion industry is faced with rather unpleasant truths: overconsumption, overproduction, a catastrophic environmental balance, social upheaval... and consequently an increasing problem of justification. Ultimately, fashion is once again a mirror of society and a mirror of misguided capitalism. What role can art and the artist play as influencers? That of the disruptor or merely that of the jester? An important topic indeed. Fast fashion and throwaway fashion is a huge problem and much work needs to be done. I think that as long as people are made aware of the problem, they can take what they want from it. Personally, I have never been a fan of telling people what to do or
“Art with a message is great, but is it the job of an artist to make the planet a better place?”
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“By portraying the fashion models/designers as icons of worship, I am connecting classic art to a modern day audience.”
what to think through my art. This goes back to the question about my art not being instructive or judgemental. People can do what they want, it is not my business. Sometimes artists can get too swept up with the social media hype and telling people how to behave. Art with a message is great, but is it the job of an artist to make the planet a better place? Personally, I think it depends on the artist. Artists should be selective with the brands they collaborate with, we all know that better quality products last longer and need replacing less frequently, but unfortunately many online fast fashion companies make offers to influencers that they cannot refuse.
THE LONGVIEW
“By changing ‘Chanel’ to ‘Chapel’, I am simply commenting on the way the brand is worshipped by so many on a global scale.”
KATE FRAGILE Mixed media on canvas with a resin finish
CHAPEL WORSHIP KARL DRIPS
ENDLESS LIZZY VUITTON BLUE
Mixed media on canvas with a resin finish
Acrylic and spray paint on canvas
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WHAT’S THE STORY
CREATIVITY IS THE KEY TO A SUCCESSFUL REORGANIZATION OF THE INDUSTRY. INSPIRATION IS WHAT ULTIMATELY TRANSFORMS FASHION INTO ART.
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C r e-A R T- i v i t y
QUESTIONING QUESTIONS Not only fashion must rediscover creativity as the key to future success. An opinion piece by Stephan Huber
T
he Tönnies affair will undoubtedly leave its mark on society. The very fact that such working and hygiene conditions are possible in the heart of Europe (keyword “community of values”), and even more so in the heart of Germany (keyword “role model”), has quite justifiably horrified large sections of the public. The system behind cheap meat has been laid bare mercilessly. It is in fact so evident that looking away or avoiding the issue is no longer possible. There is no longer an excuse for those who buy such products. They must now know that others pay the price for them, and that this price is way too high. Beyond the obvious and disgusting, namely the cruel exploitation of humans and animals, there is an aspect that deeply affects the foundations of our social system. Many people, who would be only too happy to flip the switch on the verifiably successful symbiosis of democracy and market economy, sweepingly perceive the Tönnies scandal as a key indicator of the inherent dysfunctionality of capitalism, and the need to overcome it. In reality, however, this scandal is evidence of a lack of – or at least a dysfunctional system of – regulatory policy. To reiterate: freedom is not defined by an absence of rules and laws. Indeed, freedom must ALWAYS be protected by
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rules against those who seek to abuse it for individual benefit and thus to the detriment or harm of countless others. A company, or entire industry, whose existence is based on rampant exploitation, largely protected by legislation (in this case: regulatory policy), should be stripped of its very basis of existence – not least to protect the market economy. This is the responsibility of politicians and a challenge for society as a whole in equal measure. There is a direct link between Gütersloh and the collapse of the Rana Plaza more than seven years ago. The latter was, of course, a much more horrifying portrayal of the underlying morals of unchecked globalisation. That building collapsed in Bangladesh, meaning it was sufficiently far away to avoid thinking about what the death toll of 1,500 people actually meant. Have there been consequences? Were the promises made following the shocking images really kept? Was or is the fundamental question of how we can redefine consumption in order to return it to what it really is (or should be) in public perception, namely the basis of prosperity and the engine of all innovation, being seriously discussed? Who is in a position to ask this question without shackles and radical solutions in mind? Who has the answers? The fact that this issue of style in progress, published in truly historic circumstances, immerses itself so deeply into the world of ideas and narratives surrounding art was not planned, but is also no random coincidence. Right here and now is the perfect moment to remember that we must face these future challenges with creativity, with respect for originality, with love for the idea.
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“WE MUST DEFINE WHO WE ARE” Designer Dries van Noten addressed the industry in an open letter during lockdown. He received much applause, yet was misunderstood. When Dries van Noten calls for more realism and level-headedness, he has no commercial but a creative objective in mind: to bring back the magic. Interview: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Dries van Noten
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our “Just In” initiative triggered an exchange between high-ranking players in the elite genre of the fashion industry. How did that come about? First of all, I would like to stress that I never intended to portray myself as a leader or even to gain an advantage for my company. I did not expect it to look like I was attempting to be a figurehead at the time. Maybe I was a little naïve in that respect. What is your primary objective? This was also readily misunderstood. It is certainly not a question of making arrangements of any kind. I am committed to bringing our rhythm back into line with the needs of the end customer, mainly because our industry can seem to have forgotten that there is an end customer who is trying to keep up with us. What was particularly exciting for you during this process, which started with a couple of zoom calls? It was incredibly diverse. Designers, retailers, distributors, fashion show organisers, PR experts… we all listened to each other and explored each other’s needs. We quickly came to realise that for many “See Now, Buy Now” is in fact the next evolutionary step and that our system ought to evolve accordingly. However, therein also lies the danger. Which is? If we only present the collection to the public six months after it has been pre-ordered by the buyers, the danger can be that it will be purely commercial factors that drive the trying rather than the creative vision expected of our sector. So you do not believe that time-to-market times can be reduced? I believe that the elite genre, or the part of fashion that is still driven by designers, has been forced to adjust to the pace of fast fashion over the last few 088
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WHAT’S THE STORY
The silent one has found his voice. During the shutdown, Dries van Noten highlighted industry shortcomings in an open letter.
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Dries van Noten is convinced that fashion has the duty and responsibility to explain the values of designer fashion to the consumer.
years. I have no intention to badmouth fast fashion, I simply want to state that this pace is impossible to match in our segment. Can this distinction be explained to the consumer? Yes, and we have a responsibility to do so now. We need to learn how to better explain why our clothing is the way it is. For example, I work with a damask manufactured in Lyon. This craft is in danger of being wiped out. When we cooperate with this particular fabric manufacturer, we contribute to his survival. It is true that this has never really been a priority in the communication of designer brands. Aside of the name, the piece came without any further explanation. 090
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WHAT'S THE STORY
Yes, we in fashion were perhaps a little too focused on self-expression. Without glorifying the COVID-19 situation in any way, the forced pause has nevertheless afforded us an opportunity to ask ourselves who we actually are. This may sound trivial, but the fact is that we actually spend most of our time talking to ourselves and our peers. This whole circus that travels from show to show – at the end of the day it always consists of the same people. And yes, there are advertisements and editorials that we can use to convey information, but often they are only used to impress this peer group, not to inform the end consumer. So what must we do? We need to share our passion again. That was in fact one of the most fascinating aspects of this forum, to exchange views and realise with how much passion the others go about their business too. However, this does not mean that our group has found the proverbial Philosopher’s Stone. What is important is that we want to change for the better, want to take responsibility and change that we are so out of step with the end customer. We need to challenge ourselves, find answers, and then be able to explain them to the end customer. It is no longer sufficient to simply classify something under the term luxury; we must also be able to explain who we are and why the pieces cost as much as they do. Not everyone will be capable of conveying this – in terms of communication, fashion has so far always relied on the word “new”. Absolutely, which is why we have to not only provide knowledge to our end customers, but also to ourselves. Especially the young generation does not necessarily know the difference between poplin, seersucker, or damask. We also need to tell that story, but above all we need to convey the magic that is created by our manufacturers. The end customers need to share that passion. We must preserve these artisan businesses and explain how important it is to maintain them and their passion for their respective crafts. Again, it is not about price or price fixing, it is about restoring healthy economic conditions that allow us to earn the money we need to produce pieces that make the end customer feel our passion. We have to ensure that the people who have crafted these products have a chance to maintain their small manufactories. That will not be possible in permanent sale mode… That is correct. The situation in the US has, for example, become especially extreme. Over there one has a mere month to sell at full price. Which brings us to a controversial subject on which I would like to hear your opinion. Are the prices that the luxury segment invokes really always justifiable? My personal impression as an end consumer is that many prices are simply made up by marketing departments. 092
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“It is not about price or price fixing; it is about restoring healthy economic conditions that allow us to earn the money we need to produce pieces that make the end customer feel our passion.”
That may well be true, but I really have no desire to interfere in the pricing policy of others. This was never the purpose of the open letter we wrote. We all know that a certain amount of honesty in our segment goes hand-in-hand with sustainability. The most sustainable thing one can do is to produce less. This would also make it easier to enforce regular prices. Of course, high prices that result from this honest, sustainable path are also linked to the simple reality that not everyone who likes your things can actually afford them. So we have to ask ourselves: How can we achieve that? How do we deal with the situation? How do we remain engaged with fans who cannot afford a coat that costs 2,000 Euros. You have not set yourself an easy task… The important thing is that we do not lose sight of the positive aspects despite all the negative ones. Yes, people will consume less. Yes, clothing may have lost relevance as a form of self-expression. Maybe this means we need to shrink a little and redefine our own relevance. We need to refocus on passion, joy, and craft. Could “no season” be an answer? Certainly for some, but it depends on who you are and how you manufacture. Young designers, for example, are not going to be able to deliver that. In our genre, it is acquired knowledge that you present your collection, sell it, and then use these figures to find someone who will temporarily finance fabrics and production until retailers pay their bills. This does not work with a running production. So it does not work for designer fashion. It works perfectly for jeans though. However, there is another aspect that strikes a chord with me as a creative. I am very happy to have a show and a fixed date when the season is over. After all, I am telling a story and I have to finish one story to start a new one. This has been my approach to being creative for 32 years. This is my view of things. This is how I can express myself.
WHAT'S THE STORY
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Presenting collections on the catwalk only when they are already in stores? Dries van Noten views this as both an opportunity and a challenge. One has to, however, ensure that creativity remains the top priority.
“I am very happy to have a show and a fixed date when the season is over.�
What do you think will change? I honestly do not know. In our own environment we hear people saying that they want to be more conscious in terms of consumption, perhaps maybe only buy one or two really special pieces per season. In the same way, however, it is just as possible that we fall back into our bad habits and soon return to feeling it is okay to fly a hundred people to a special place for a fashion show. The important thing is to maintain respect: respect for the end customer, respect for ourselves and our cause, and respect for those who choose to tread a different path. 094
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Does respect for customers also entail focusing everything on them? We need to listen. As a creative mind, one can, however, also listen too much. At the end of the day, one needs to remain capable of surprise, to be able to pull the proverbial rabbit out of the hat. That is our role. We need to create magic, forge a certain taste, guide people, and inspire them. Those who always only ask their customers whether they would like a rabbit conjured out of a hat, will never spread magic.
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IS FASHION ART?
“How dare fashion call itself art,” cries the one side. “Of course fashion is art,” counters the other side. One thing is clear: in the search for relevance, the liaison between fashion and art has reached a new peak. style in progress asked designers, retailers, and authors what unites fashion and art, and what separates them. Text: Stefanie Buchacher, Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek, Martina Müllner-Seybold, Nicoletta Schaper. Illustrations: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler
NATURAL MASTERPIECES
CATEGORIES ARE OBSOLETE
Esma Annemon Dil, author “The Dadaists and Surrealists, as well as designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli or Coco Chanel, had begun to transcend limits. Jean Cocteau was an artist, designer, and author, but also a fashion collaborator. Warhol’s Factory became a symbol for the dissolution of advanced culture and popular culture. Ever since the Metropolitan Museum – mainly through the efforts of Diana Vreeland – began celebrating fashion with major annual exhibitions in the mid-1970s, even such institutions no longer think in strict categories. Are fashion fans aware of how much the aesthetics of the streetwear icon Supreme is influenced by Barbara Kruger’s red-underlaid text art? That is why far-sighted fashion houses commission young designers and artists to create editions that justify their brand’s presence at an Art Basel, Frieze, or Biennale.”
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Andrea Bardelli, CEO of 19Andrea’s47 “Art inspires fashion, just as fashion inspires art. Fashion creations are not only worn, they can also be great masterpieces of craftsmanship and an expression of great skill. This is the foundation of our own collection, which is inspired by nature in the coming season. We have, for example, designed stoles that are printed with natural plants such as flowers, leaves, berries, and roots. The result is reminiscent of a natural footprint and produces fascinating effects – one can discover individual petals and plant veins in the material, which are, in turn, true works of natural art.”
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FASHION IS SUBSTANTIATED ART
Yossi Coen, designer at Les Copains “I love this question! As I see it, art is the creative expression of an individual and can be conveyed in different ways: as a drawing for instance – be it on fabric or some other material. Art is, however, defined by the viewer rather than the person who creates it. Whoever creates art ‘merely’ expresses it. Some unique haute couture pieces are considered art, while some works of art exist thousand-fold and are thus considered commercial. So, my only answer must be that the viewer decides subjectively. Ultimately, fashion is a form of art for me, even if it serves a function, because it is the substantiation of something you carry within you.”
MOVEMENT
WE NEED DREAMS
Francesca Lusini, CEO Peuterey “In this day and age, the dualism in the discussion about fashion and art should be eliminated. They are no longer two separate disciplines. In fact, designers and artisans are inspired by art and often on par with artists. After all, art and fashion are both expressions of one’s own self, one’s own world view, and the topics relevant within. Accordingly, artists commissioned by the fashion industry are afforded an opportunity to instil their vision in a product, thus lending it more scope and experimental freedom. Ultimately, this is how you reach a larger audience. The manifestations of both worlds, fashion and art, allow us to dream. And that is what we need: dreams.”
Ela Holscher-Di Marco, owner of Ela Selected Düsseldorf “There is fashion that has no artistic attributes – it is always the same. For me, however, true fashion means movement. It inspires me and moves me forward. From this moment on, fashion is art as created by designers such as Martin Margiela and Henrik Vibskov. Their designs express movement and constructivism. One could hang the pieces on the wall like paintings or place them in stores as sculptures. In the same way, the wearer of expertly cut clothing transforms and turns into an object in its own right. This is also the underlying principle of my collection, which is always based on a geometric shape such as a circle or triangle. The artistic aspect of fashion is what still inspires me and always energises me anew, even after 43 years as a fashion retailer.”
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THE SUM OF ELEMENTS
Alain Fracassi, designer at Doppiaa “It depends on what type of fashion and art one is talking about. There is one kind of fashion, and there is another kind of fashion. The same goes for art. Not every form of art is fashionable, in the sense of ‘en vogue’, and not every piece of fashion with an artistic claim can be called art. If at all, fashion design is only capable of expressing its artistic talent through very individual style. By this I mean an authentic attitude, a unique perspective, and visionary ideas that ultimately create value through sartorial craftsmanship and individual artistry – an intuition that swims against the tide and is ahead of our time, proud of its own identity, work, and history. Once we are capable of recognising the power of these individual elements and uniting them, then it is possible for real art to burst through.”
RICHNESS AND IMAGINATION
Tullio Marani, designer and owner of Henry Beguelin “Both art and fashion are meant to inspire us to dream. Of course, the higher the quality and originality of the creations, the more they are able to do so. Fashion can be art and art is subject to fashion, but both transcend our everyday life, exceed our primary needs, and bestow idealistic richness and imagination on our lives. Perhaps this perception stems from a very specific Italian understanding. The Italian word for craftsman, namely ‘artigiano’, includes the term art, as in ‘arte’. We have, by the way, increased our (self-)awareness in this respect again. Craftsmanship was not particularly respected in Italy either for a while. Craftsmanship was synonymous with being poor, which is why everyone aspired to an academic career. However, the prestige of craftsmanship has begun to increase again in recent years.”
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WHAT'S THE STORY
Julia Beliaeva lives and works in Kyiv.
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JULIA BELIAEVA
AWARENESS AS ART Highly talented Ukrainian artist Julia Beliaeva faces the contradictions of a globalised media society with ruthless intimacy – an extremely exciting approach. Interview: Stephan Huber. Photos: Julia Beliaeva
It is striking how much contemporary art and its narratives are shaped by (young) women, especially women from “peripheral” countries that are in the midst of social breaks and conflicts. Is struggle an engine of creativity? I cannot speak for everybody, but I can speak for myself. The reason why I am an artist is my personal sensibility to different directions of human activity and life. I have always been interested in a lot of things concurrently, but generally I attempt to comprehend my own life in my works. It is very important for me that my art does not reflect any nationality. The world has been globalised, everybody has the right to express his or her point of view, and this is what our time is valuable for, this is how it exceeds previous times, as today every voice can be heard. Art is fighting for new ways of perception, reflecting events that happen today in its own way. We can see it in different areas: intimate, social, and global. Moreover, changes that happen right now have a global character, and we depend on each other as never before. The art is a funhouse mirror reflecting the world, it decides which part to zoom in on and which to deform. Is the Corona pandemic an accelerator for all of these processes and developments? Corona is somehow the globalisation of a virus. This is a challenge for humanity in many aspects. It reminds us that the most important thing in life is soul development. And I think it is an era of true art, awareness as art
even. That may sound abstract. Anticipations are always difficult to describe, and society is now reactive. We see political crises in many countries. Evolution has never been easy. You deal intensively and radically with yourself in your art. Why? By means of my self-portraits, I realise myself. Feministic aspects are also brought up in these works. For my inspiration I often use symbolic scenes and characters, adopting and trying them on myself. I find freedom in using myself as the object of my research, I am not restricted in ideas and modifications. I move beyond the borders of my personality in these works. I see many, very different points of contact with fashion. Is there a logical interaction between art and fashion? Fashion is a social phenomenon. I had several significant collaboration projects in the field of fashion when we worked with the public extensively. One of the latest projects was for a central store in Kyiv named “TSUM”, where I presented a series of sculptures representing the theme of myths in social networks and distorted reality under the influence of social media. The sculptures were shown in store windows and were seen by hundreds style in progress
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“Art is a funhouse mirror reflecting the world,” says artist Julia Beliaeva about her line of work.
of people per day. Also, the virtual fashion show in collaboration with the FINCH design brand gave us the opportunity to expand the scope of closed fashion shows and gave everyone interested the possibility to see this show for “chosen ones” by means of virtual reality. Are there questions of identity that connect both? Yes, I guess this is the part of my individuality. Fashion is very obviously looking for closeness to art or artists. Are collaborations appealing? Collaboration of fashion and art is attractive, but not now. Collaboration is not always an easy thing for me,
but I think that teamwork is a very valuable experience regardless. I would also like to admit that fashion is prone to technology and digital art, and I am very glad this is the case. How important is fashion for yourself? Fashion is like a game. I like the idea that, by means of fashion, it is possible to try different roles or simply be yourself. Now fashion is not dictating, it rather gives an opportunity to choose. www.julia-beliaeva.com style in progress
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SHIRIN SHA
PAPER DREAMS Anja Shahinniya, founder of the art project Shirin Sha, has turned her passion into a profession by creating impressive shop window decorations, catalogues, and pop-up cards made of paper for luxury brands. As a former fashion editor, she discovered her talent in set design – drawing, cutting, and modelling are still an integral part of her art today. Shahinniya’s sensitivity and attention to detail are highly valued by brands such as Cada, Cartier, Bulgari, Mercedes Benz, Nymphenburg, and Parmigiani. Interview: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Photos: Shirin Sha
Anja, how would you describe your art? Is it paper art? Given that paper plays a major part in my work, one could use paper art as an umbrella term. It is definitely nothing like origami. Every assignment requires its own implementation, applying various techniques that I have acquired over time. My first step is always to make a sketch. Then, depending on the size of the objects, I start cutting out shapes with scissors, scalpels, or knives. After that, I assemble all the components by hand. When working on very small and detailed motifs, I utilise laser technology to ensure I can duplicate them as required. To what extent does fashion still play a role in your projects? Would you describe yourself as an artist? As a former editor at various fashion magazines, fashion will always play a very important role in my life. I continue to work closely with the fashion world and often draw inspiration for my paper art from the Paris fashion shows. I struggle with the term ‘artist’, because I am still at the beginning of my career. I consider Frida Kahlo, Picasso, and others to be artists. Shop windows are meant to attract the interest of customers and differentiate retailers from the competition. As a bonus of sorts, your type of visual merchandising is also ecological and less costly. Paper is down-to-earth and tangible for everyone. It is sustainable and affordable. I almost exclusively process sustainable paper manufactured by Papiermanufaktur Gmund from Tegernsee. It feels fantastic to use such a material. It is important to me, too, that my paper attracts attention without imposing itself on anyone. It is intended to describe the product, to highlight it. Many clients have informed me that walk-in customers stop in front of my window displays and then enter the respective store to ask for my paper art. When the end consumer steps into the store, it is a victory for both the retailer and me. My creations do not have an abstract price, but are calculated from the hours required for conception and implementation. For Bulgari, for example, I spent three months designing flowers – almost day and night. I am, however, pretty certain that I am cheaper than an advertising agency. (laughs)
“We are driven and pressed for time way too often… we should just pause for breath. I try to create dream worlds in which one can immerse oneself and forget about the real world for a while. That is a lovely notion,” says Anja Shahinniya.
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Casper Bech Olesen is in charge of international sales at Minimum. The Danish brand has established itself in a strategically focused manner and is now cooperating with fashion agency Ben And.
MINIMUM
“TIMING IS EVERYTHING” Danish brand Minimum is realigning itself in the DACH region. With sales agency Ben And as new distribution partner, the strengths of the dynamic collection are to be highlighted even more effectively. For spring/summer 2021, the brand is relying on a mix of digital and physical orders. Interview: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Minimum
What will the order process look like in the future? Casper Bech Olesen, International Sales Manager of Minimum: There is no doubt that the Covid-19 pandemic has accelerated corporate and brand strategies on how to serve customers digitally. We are launching a virtual showroom for the SS21 season. Does that mean that digital sales is the only way forward? No, but it is definitely a combination of both digital elements and physical presence. What has changed in terms of collection and delivery strategy? The old days of too early deliveries and stock sitting on the shelves for weeks, or even months, before being relevant are gone as cash flow is increasingly limited. Hence, timing is everything. We have used the last couple of months proactively in order to re106
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Minimum strives to competently occupy the entry-level price range in the premium segment. The brand presents a series of measures that reduce the risk for retailers and make the collection more effective.
think our current collection flow and size. In the process, we have managed to narrow our core product groups down to a handful per season, alongside complementary products. We are selling in looks and themes within a certain delivery month. What has changed in terms of the pre/ in-season order ratio? Pre-order budgets are generally being cut, placing more risk on the brands. Our response is digital. As of SS21, we are ready to implement an “endless aisle” feature for our physical retailers to ensure they never run out of stock. Furthermore, we can offer an “online to online” solution where we mirror our stock with our partners’ e-commerce platforms and auto-replenish. This is a vital element of our riskless Essentials concept, a NOS programme. All above initiatives are giving our physical retailers some of the ammunition and strengths that big e-commerce platforms enjoy. The small, mobile retailers have demonstrated their merits during the crisis.
Minimum addresses retailers of a certain size, many of whom lack credit insurance as sorely as customer frequency. What is your strategy? We handle that case by case. Our offers are based on the history and latest info we have on the respective customer. Through close dialogue and co-planning, we always manage to find a solution suitable for all partners involved. You have struck up a new partnership with Ben And for the German-speaking markets… Our newly established partnership with Ben And emphasises the strategy we launched a year ago. We are targeting an “entry premium” distribution and positioning, which is one of the obvious core competencies of the Ben And team. Our expectations for the new partnership in the German market are very high and we cannot wait to kick off the SS21 season. We are eager to present our initiatives for both existing partners and potential customers.
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A return to modernity and a precisely calibrated collection subdivided into four delivery dates – this is how La Martina intends to build on past success in the German-speaking countries.
Enrico Roselli strives to adapt global strategies to local requirements: with a NOS programme specifically for the DACH market, for example.
LA MARTINA
REALIGNMENT OF TRADITIONAL VALUES A well-known name aspires to return to the DACH market at full strength. To this end, La Martina has enlisted the support of Ben And. style in progress spoke with Enrico Roselli, CEO of La Martina, about his plans. Text: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Photos: La Martina
Back for good. With its SS21 collection, La Martina is starting its DACH sales cooperation with Munich-based fashion agency Ben And. Both sides are highly motivated. The Italian family business with Argentinean roots was once globally renowned for its polo sportswear. Over the last few years, the company conducted business in the DACH region independently. Now, however, it is essential to harness the crisis to address new opportunities. Ben Botas and his team are the perfect choice for this task: “During the lockdown, it became even clearer how important it is to have the right partners in place and, consequently, to promote fair and transparent cooperation. Fair play remains our core value in this context,” Enrico Roselli, CEO of La Martina Europe, explains. There are four collections, which also feature 108
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several themed capsules, with four delivery dates. In addition, La Martina is currently working on an NOS programme for the German-speaking market. “We initiated the aforementioned NOS programme in collaboration with the design team. It includes trousers, as well as polos and shirts. We are planning to establish a warehouse in Germany for this purpose, enabling us to react as quickly and flexibly as possible to changing demand.” Simultaneously, it is also a question of focusing and concentrating on core topics. “The looks are pre-selected to present an optimal overview to customers,” says Ben Botas. Enrico Roselli adds: “An innovative global strategy requires local implementation with slight adjustments in regional interpretation. One should not be arrogant enough to believe that a global strategy can be applied equally in all markets.” In the same spirit, La Martina is also rebooting its business in the Benelux countries in partnership with renowned sales agency D-Lux Concept. DESIGN AND DIGITISATION
In keeping with recent market developments, La Martina has been preparing for realign-
ment for several seasons. On the one hand, the collections are now more relaxed. The look is younger, intended for a target group between 30 and 40 years of age. On the other hand, digitisation is a major factor. It not only encompasses active social media work, but extends to all levels of the corporate structure, in particular the cooperation with the retail sector. In the near future, every La Martina customer should soon be able to virtually retrieve communication material (POS material, press material, etc.), and also have access to the central stock inventory. A retailer who currently only stocks La Martina’s clothing collection will be able to access the virtual warehouse for other product groups via this system. This means that the retailer in question could, for example, order a pair of La Martina shoes upon customer request. “One of the things we have invested heavily in is the synergy between us and the retail industry, especially independent multi-brand retailers. Our ideal future vision is to integrate every La Martina partner into our platforms in a manner that allows them to access services and content as quickly and directly as possible,” says Enrico Roselli.
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Greek designer Athina Parnasa (left) named Devotion Twins after her twins. Is it a coincidence that distribution and global brand management are handled by the twins Sandjar and Sara Safay (right)? By the way: their brother, who is, among other duties, responsible for the US business of Devotion Twins, is a Gemini.
DEVOTION TWINS
DEVOTED TO YOU The rapid international ascent of Greek brand Devotion Twins is really inspiring: Feminine dresses packed with value, a perfect balance of icons and surprises. Designer Athina Parnasa has managed to transform a one-hit wonder into a brand with a clear USP. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Devotion Twins
“Athina recently suggested that I love Devotion Twins even more than she does,” laughs Sara Safay, Global Brand Manager of Devotion Twins. Since 2018, she has, with the help of her brothers Sandjar and Sassan, transformed the brand founded in 2001 into an international phenomenon. The distributor SASAtrend, managed by the aforementioned brothers, manages the brand’s activities in the DACH market, as well as in other key markets such as the US, Europe, Australia, and many more. “We now even have customers in South Africa, Bermuda, and Singapore,” says Sara Safay. The brand manager believes there are many reasons why Devotion Twins is such a phenomenon in all these countries: “It is the joy of life, the effortless femininity, the simplicity. Simply put, a woman is beautiful in a Devotion Twin dress.” The dresses, all of which are sustainably produced in Greece, require a great
deal of handicraft. “An Ella dress requires at least four meters of fabric, which is cut and dyed by hand directly on site in Athens. That explains the price,” says Sara Safay. MORE THAN ELLA
“The success of the Ella dress is remarkable. It is the definition of easy-to-wear. Put it on and look great, be it in the supermarket or on the beach. What makes it so successful, however, is that the cut is absolutely new. We have not seen a great deal of innovation in the womenswear segment in recent years. Devotion Twins was a turning point in that respect,” Sara Safay argues. Designer Athina Parnasa ensures that this novelty value of the collection does not fade away. “The current spring/summer 2021 collection really gave me goose bumps, that is how beautiful it is,” says Sara Safay enthusiastically. “Each collection is an invitation to retailers to rediscover Devotion Twins anew. An individual selection allows them to focus what works best in their respective stores.”
Additionally, the collection is being expanded considerably: a girls’ collection (Sara Safay: “Just imagine the hype on Instagram.”), home accessories, everyday masks, bags, towels, hats, and pillows. “We are approached by retailers who want to list Devotion Twins on a daily basis, but our sales agents are highly selective. SASAtrend is committed to long-term thinking. We have no interest in burning a brand,” says Sara Safay. “It goes without saying that we do not supply large retailers who would dump the brand in sales. Devotion Twins has no need for sales, even during the pandemic we generated sensational figures.” The original’s status is to be underpinned by a clearer branding approach. The fact that the success of Devotion Twins is bound to attract numerous imitators is something Sara Safay views with professionalism. “The beautiful thing about these dresses is that they bring women together, but you are only part of that community if you are wearing a real Devotion Twin dress.” style in progress
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Italian artist Zamoc has worked for Sun 68 on several occasions. He covered the entire façade of the brand’s headquarters with striking murals.
A NEW WORLD Art serves as inspiration for fashion in many ways: the friction between the disciplines alone can provide stimuli. Sparks fly when ever fashion and art decide to collaborate – and not only in the creative process. style in progress asked brands to reflect on the non-obvious nature of their collaborations. Text: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek, Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Brands
UNDER THE SKIN Sun 68. In early 2018, Sun 68 hired Italian artist Zamoc to embellish the façade of its headquarters in Noventa di Piave near Venice. It all started with a mural depicting a huge tiger in oriental tattoo style. Since then, Zamoc has worked on the building several times, meaning it is now completely “tattooed” with an impressive jungle of animals and plants. The collaboration has since been extended. Commissioned by Sun 68, the artist also painted the hangar of a former customs office in Treviso during a live painting session. “Sun 68 strives to share important values with its audience through such creative projects and collaborations. Sun 68 is not only about fashion. The brand is aware that the only way to continue to dream, dare, share emotions, and really experience life is through the interplay of music, art, and sport,” says Maria Chiara Teza. Her agency Think Inc. Communications specialises in launching and communicating such projects with clients.
The collection has benefited from Weber + Weber’s projects with dancers: “If a piece is sufficiently flexible to dance in, then it is outstandingly comfortable in everyday life,” says designer Christian Weber.
IN THE COMFORT ZONE Weber + Weber. “We constantly hear from our customers that Weber + Weber is so comfortable to wear. We have undoubtedly acquired this attribute while working on projects involving dancers. If a piece is sufficiently flexible to dance in, then it is outstandingly comfortable in everyday life,” says Christian Weber. A personal encounter with Ina Broeckx and Walter Matteini, the heads of international dance ensemble Imperfect Dancers, inspired Christian and Manuel Weber: Shakespeare material danced expressively in Weber + Weber’s signature quality, socalled Felted Wool. “The dancers sweated quite a bit in the first costumes,” laughs Christian Weber. Since then, the Austrian brand and its production partners have developed stretchable loden flyweights that convince both on stage and in everyday life. “In terms of fit and freedom of movement, we have benefited greatly. Furthermore, we have staged impressive customer events and fashion shows featuring dancers.” Weber + Weber remains true to this approach. Another dancer, Tristan Ridel from the Vienna State Opera Ballet, stars in the latest campaign video.
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North Sails reached a new – and broader – audience with its highly decorated film about plastic pollution.
CHILD’S PLAY North Sails. As part of an environmental project titled “What about you”, North Sails has released the film “Le Mer” in collaboration with director Victor Claramunt. The message is clear: plastic is polluting our oceans – even little children are aware of that. The short film features children between 6 and 11 years of age who soberly explain how we are still polluting our oceans with plastic, and how strongly it affects our everyday lives. “Collaborations such as this one with Victor allow us to deliver messages that are meaningful to us to a broader audience, directly and quickly. And through children, one can reach people’s hearts even quicker,” says North Sails marketing director Elisa Riva. The film also attracted some unexpected attention to the fashion brand. “Le Mer” impressed the film critics, thus earning several international film awards. “When art and fashion unite creativity, talent, fantasy, and originality, the result is something truly amazing,” Riva smiles.
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Wafer-thin cashmere scarves from the current Pin 1876 collection. The German agency is Meier & Rybinski.
Pin 1876 procures its cashmere directly from goat breeders and certified farms in the Alashan region of Mongolia.
PIN 1876 BY BOTTO GIUSEPPE
CASHMERE POETRY
Giuseppe Botto Poala founded his wool weaving mill near Biella in 1876. Almost 150 years later, the company is still owned by the family. Today, the Giuseppe Botto & Figli manufactory is one of the most important specialists in fabrics, jersey, knitting yarns, knitting embroidery, and weaving. The fourth generation has now created the Pin 1876 accessory label, which inspires with its high-quality cashmere scarves. Text: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Photos: Pin 1876 by Botto Giuseppe
The name is quickly explained: founder Botto Giuseppe Poala bore the nickname “Pin”. Now his great-grandchildren pay tribute to the visionary entrepreneur with a collection bearing his name. Extremely soft cashmere and innovative styles have earned Pin 1876 a worldwide reputation as an absolute insider tip. It goes without saying that the entire production is “Made in Italy”. The collection is a pioneer in terms of its commitment to the environment and fair trade. The cashmere scarves are produced in two manufacturing plants in Valle Mosso (near Biella) 112
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and Tarcento (near Udine), which have been investing in renewable energies for more than ten years. The roof of the oldest plant is covered with large photovoltaic panels and generates 1,000,000 kWh of solar energy, which corresponds to saving about 420 tonnes of CO2 per year. The factory in Tarcento even has its own dam, which produces 8,000,000 kWh. Pin 1876 also procures the precious raw material, cashmere wool from the Alashan region in Inner Mongolia, directly from goat breeders and certified farms. For the traditional label, sustainability also means respect for the animals. GLOBAL RESPONSIBILITY, LOCAL PRODUCTION
On arrival, in Italy, the cashmere is spun into a wafer-thin thread and knitted. Pin 1876 also pays close attention to the selection of dyes when colouring the yarns.
Currently the sophisticated cashmere scarves are available in 50 different plain colours and 20 melange combinations. In addition to square models, the label offers the so-called Infinity collection featuring loop scarves. Designed as an all-season product, all existing retailers of the brand can benefit from the so-called Quick Service, which ensures that reorders are delivered within 48 hours. Embedded in the strong parent company, Pin 1876 has the freedom to be innovative and future-oriented. The expansion drive is impressive. In the past three years, sales have risen by 30 percent annually. Pin 1876 currently has 700 retail partners, 200 of them in Italy and 500 abroad. The export markets account for 75 percent of total sales, the most important countries being Germany, Japan, and the US. Following the re-start, the Botto family looks ahead with plenty of optimism – an attitude that was already exemplified by great-grandfather Pin.
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Franz Bäumler is responsible for the design of the Italian-made Tom Ripley brand.
Precisely what retailers want: Tom Ripley is a compact specialist collection that perfectly combines Italian style and solid structures.
Wolfgang Müller, Managing Director of Hajo Polo & Sportswear, is developing a high-quality niche collection with Tom Ripley.
TOM RIPLEY
DOLCE VITA INCLUDED Quite astonishing. Tom Ripley as a brand name for a high-end polo and knitwear collection, is that even possible? Wolfgang Müller is thrilled that it is. His concisely positioned brand gives the retail trade what it needs: quality and style with great sensitivity, but without expiry date. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Tom Ripley
“Tom Ripley has always fascinated me,” admits Wolfgang Müller. The audacity of simply asking whether one could register the name with such a positive connotation as a brand name for a collection was definitely worth it: Tom Ripley was born. Wolfgang Müller is an acting managing director at Hajo Polo & Sportswear alongside his father Hans Joachim Müller, but has nevertheless decided to treat himself to an additional creative and entrepreneurial arena. The Italian knitting competence, a real asset for Tom Ripley, had been instilled in the 114
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company years ago with the takeover of the then insolvent premium knitting specialist Maselli. “We focus on high-grade, very cultivated knitting qualities with added value,” explains Tom Ripley designer Franz Bäumler. A number of innovations have been incorporated into Tom Ripley: H2Dry K-Wool, Stereo System, Cashmere Blend and, in summer, polo shirts made of finest Filo di Scozia cotton. The brand’s claim “The Italian Way of Americano” could also be translated as “The German Way of Americano”, as this is the unbeatable Tom Ripley combination: Italian competence and excellence paired with German reliability and structure. Tom Ripley also bridges this gap in terms of fit: a thoroughly Italian look, perfectly fitted for men in the DACH area. Inspiration is drawn from the Italian Dolce Vita of the 1950s, the style world of Tom Ripley actor Alain Delon. STRONG NICHE PLAYER
It may be a small niche, but this is exactly why Wolfgang Müller and his team strive to become specialists. Hajo’s solid structures are the perfect harbour for a racy speedboat – or more likely: a Riva boat – to drop its anchor.
Fashion heard what it sounds like when it revs its engines at the Premium in January. “With retail prices ranging from 99 to 149 Euros, we are an interesting proposition for the retail trade. Tom Ripley presents an opportunity to stand out with a truly unique collection,” Wolfgang Müller argues. “Our goal is to secure 120 retailers in the DACH region. We consciously decided to ensure that Tom Ripley cannot be bought on every corner.” Every product proudly displays its Italian heritage on its label. Designer Franz Bäumler enjoys the freedom of expressing himself in detailed polos or creative knitting. “Men are receptive to this combination of good style and tangible quality. Our brand provides premium fashion retailers with a fresh concept that sets their respective product ranges apart from the usual market mainstream,” Wolfgang Müller says. The company has remained true to the principle of an extremely compact collection size; repeat orders and stock ranges have also been part of the business principle from the very beginning. “We think in a spirit of partnership, today more than ever,” Wolfgang Müller summarises. www.tom-ripley.com
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MIRAMAR
“MY WORK TURNS INTO ‘PROPERTY’ IN A GALLERY” Miramar Muh’d, 23, was born in Amman, Jordan, the daughter of an Iraqi family. She grew up in a family of artists, first working classically and later shifting to street art, which brought her worldwide recognition. Her murals address injustice and the oppression of women. Interview: Stephan Huber. Photos: Miramar
“This might sound funny but before getting into street art, I did not understand why skateboarders and street artists dress like that, until I found myself painting in the streets,” says 23-year-old street artist Miramar from Amman.
Were the weeks of lockdown a turning point for you, both as an individual and artist? As a person who got used to going out almost every day, it was hard for me to adapt at the beginning. As time went by, I started to like the feeling of solitude and accepting the heavy feeling of uncertainty, which led me to believe that certainty is just an illusion even in times of stability. As an artist, it was a rough experience for me, my studio was far from my house and all my artistic tools and artworks were stuck there for two months due to the full lockdown in Amman. It was hard at the beginning. After a while, I found some alternative materials to create and luckily found some clay as I have always wanted to try sculpting and that was the perfect time to do so. For the first time I had the chance to create my first full sculpture of a male portrait from clay. Your biography is incredibly exciting. You were born into an Iraqi family and today you work in Amman, Jordan. And you are a woman. I know that should not matter today, but in fact it still does. What determined your way into the art world? I am a member of an Iraqi family living in exile in Amman, Jordan due to my father’s political activity, so I was born away from home. The only thing that determines my way into art is simply my humanitarian beliefs of humanity’s deep need for expression no matter what gender. It feels difficult for me to recall my gender until it is pointed out for me, and that might sound weird but my “unnatural” way of unseeing gender was the flag that saved me from following society’s gender roles and broke all those limits associated with them, internally. Although, externally, I do face gender discrimination all the time, but when I create these large murals while hanging on a platform mid-air, it gives shocking evidence of what I am able to do as a “woman”. 116
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Street art in particular has always had an important socio-political component. I have the feeling that its narrative character is becoming increasingly important again. What are your thoughts on the subject? Does your art convey messages? I believe that as a tool for communication, art functions as a catalyst for social change through making personal experiences accessible by giving them form and structure – empowering minorities through representation and including them into public discourse, therefore fostering understanding. With this “consciousness-raising” approach to art production, I started my career at the age of 19 painting portraits of the individual to hone my technique and create distinct aesthetics, emphasising the emotional expressions of vulnerability and intimacy. To further promote this notion, I realised the confined space of the gallery not only turned my work into “property” rather than a body of knowledge, but also limited viewership, hindering its effect on social change. I thus turned to street art to transform the way my community in Amman engages with my work, converting my art into a dynamic construct weaved into the fabric of the urban landscape. With street art, I aim to create works born of our needs and to make art more accessible and inclusive for the general public rather than being only exhibited in white cubes and for one specific elite social class. Art, not least street art, has had – and still has – a strong influence on styles and trends. Does fashion, in turn, have a similar effect on you? This might sound funny but before getting into street art, I did not understand why skateboarders and street artists dress like that, until I found myself painting in the streets, where I gradually started wearing and collecting streetwear. A street
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environment is highly demanding when it comes to feeling comfortable, practical and confident. I believe besides looking good, streetwear provides what is necessary to make the streets feel comfortable like home. Interdisciplinarity is one of the most significant drivers of creativity. What are your sources of inspiration? At the beginning of my journey as a studio artist, my main source was the process of deep exploration of my expressive instincts while using my family’s background and the visual stimuli of our home as my source of inspiration and knowledge. I was also diagnosed with Borderline Personality Disorder, and art acted as a form of therapy and a way of coping with the challenges associated with being non-neurotypical. Art taught me that there are no limits to unlocking my potential and visiting new territories of my personhood. With a furtive tendency towards expanding my expressive horizon, I honed my technique and formed my distinct aesthetic of portraits with minimal color schemes and compositions that highlight different states of strength, vulnerability, and intimacy. However, eventually the canvas stopped being enough for me. I needed larger scales, and thus transitioned to outdoor murals. In moving from a small canvas onto a large wall, I became lighter and thus opened myself to possibilities for floating to new creative experiments and media. Street art is an inherently public medium, not confined by the walls of the gallery. Working on my pieces feels communal rather than individual. The
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artworks seem to become more than objects fixed in time and space; they are living things that generate reactions and therefore engender distinct forms of engagement between the producer and audience in public space. In the process of producing work outdoors, I approach a state of oneness as if the public is expressing itself through me. My experiences as a street artist have been pivotal in shaping my belief that art can facilitate mutual solidarities within specific communities. Furthermore, being in a minority as a female street artist in Jordan while often depicting women in my work highlights my desire to deploy aesthetics as a way to reframe dominant gender norms. Eventually, I can say that my source and inspiration is the bridge I built throughout my journey between fine art and street art. Being both a studio artist and a street artist feels very paradoxical just like Yin and Yang; very opposing yet complementing in a way that constantly inspires me and renews my concepts. Instill included you in the list of 50 women who will shape the world in 2020. What does that mean to you? I felt very appreciated and connected with people, and that made me feel even more powerful.
“With street art, I aim to make art more accessible and inclusive for the general public rather than for one specific elite social class.” Miramar
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What are the status symbols of today? In times of a consumer society sensitised in an ecologically critical context the focus has shifted from product to attitude. Art has become the ultimate stylistic device for this new aspiration. One can adorn oneself with it, profit from it. It is gilded. Collectors and galleries are not the only ones to boost their image with art. The fashion trade also enjoys utilising art to present itself as a brand or connoisseur. The retail area acts as an interdisciplinary platform and concept. This is the foundation of a success story that is gaining momentum internationally. Text: Janaina Engelmann-BrothĂĄnek, Isabel Faiss, Martina MĂźllner-Seybold, Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Stores
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The Greatest You/Shenyang The Room for All Occasions The Greatest You, a Shenyang-based concept store, opened its doors to the public in January. It can be redesigned completely within a single day. As a creative platform and meeting place for the interdisciplinary art scene, The Greatest You also houses a cafĂŠ, spa, and flower shop alongside the store. In addition, the store space will be used regularly for exhibitions, events, collection presentations, and other community events. The holistic concept, devised by the Ramporino design team headed by Marcella Campa and Stefano Avesani, is perceived as pioneering in China. Polished Steel as Eye-Catcher The idea of permanent change is the creative guideline of The Greatest You. Customers should find new visual inspiration as often as possible, not merely across the product range. At the centre of the retail space are two flower-like semicircles of curved polished steel. The larger semicircle houses changing rooms and storage facilities, while the smaller demarcates an area for art exhibitions that can be rotated around its own axis.
Metal is the principal material within the store. It may be neutral, but it also reacts to what is happening around it through light reflections.
The Greatest You, Kerry Parkside N202, Qingnian Street No.139, Shenyang/China
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The oversized mirrors in the souterrain of Mirror Garden interact with fashion, perspectives, and the self-reflection of the customers.
Mirror Garden/Beijing The Perfect Illusion Oversized mirrors create optical perspectives that lead nowhere and make the room seem infinite. Simultaneously, planted murals as highlights create the perception of a blend of interior and exterior. Especially in Beijing – China’s vibrant, loud, and shrill capital – the staging of an avant-garde, reduced, and subtle aesthetic should be interpreted as the outcry of an art scene that is still relatively young. Contemporary art has only been socially acceptable in China since the Deng Xiaoping era (1979 to 1997) and has since attracted a young fan base whose financial resources are virtually unlimited. These Chinese yuppies, the children of nouveau-riche families, have studied in the West. Now they are boosting their prestige by acquiring collections by prominent artists. For purposes of comparison: the value of all contemporary Chinese art auctioned in China and Hong Kong amounted to 1.1 billion US Dollars in 2018. (Source: Statista, October 2019). With its Mirror Garden concept store, Chinese architectural firm Archstudio, under the direction of Han Wenq Qiang and Li Xiaoming, has created an avant-garde temple in one of the few remaining historic buildings in Beijing’s Dongsi Old City district. This is where art, architecture, interior design, culinary delights, and avant-garde fashion merge. The concept store opened in April 2019 and features fashion collections by designers such as Uma Wang, MA+, Marc Le Bihan, and Empress47, as well as an area with selected design furniture, a small restaurant area with open kitchen, and a lounge. Mirror Garden, Dongsi Subdistrict, Beijing/China
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The name says it all: Mirror Garden interweaves mirrored surfaces and green areas, creating the illusion of a seamless unity of interior and exterior. A unique art project in the heart of Beijing.
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10 Corso Como/Milan Creative Mastermind This particular success story celebrates its 30th anniversary this year. It remains, however, literally state-of-the-art in terms of the liaison between fashion and art. When Carla Sozzani opened her Galleria in 1990, followed by the launch of 10 Corso Como one year later, she created the very first concept store that is still the ultimate benchmark – more so than ever. In a manner of speaking, she is the inventor of “Slow Shopping”. However, she is also an art collector, curator of her own collection, style icon, publicist, patron of the international fashion and art scene, and, by the way, one of the most successful entrepreneurs in the fashion business. Sozzani has professionalised conceiving fashion and art as a singular entity and marketing them as such. After Milan, 10 Corso Como opened stores in New York, Seoul, Beijing, and Shanghai. An integral part of all stores is a close collaboration with the local and international art scene,
which ranges from the design of retail spaces to temporary collaborations and collection presentations. Name Dropping as Side Effect In the exhibition “Between Art & Fashion - Photographs from the collection of Carla Sozzani”, Fondazione Sozzani presents 160 photographs by a total of 87 different artists, all of whom have approached the fashion theme in their own way. The list of contributors reads like the who’s who of the photography community of the last two centuries, featuring Helmut Newton, Man Ray, Leni Riefenstahl, and Irving Penn. 10 Corso Como, Corso Como 10, 20154 Milan/Italy, www.10corsocomo.com
In addition to names such as Helmut Newton, Paolo Roversi, or Sara Moon, Galleria Sozzani has welcomed everyone of rank and name. Shown here are the works of Walker Evans and the current exhibition of fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez.
Key features of the Milan store include exclusive collaborations and exhibitions with designers such as Victor & Rolf, Salvatore Ferragamo, or Carla Sozzani’s close friend Azzedine Alaia.
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Trongyee/Shantou Everything in Flux With the design concept for the Trongyee Boutique in Shantou, China, the design team of AD Architecture has transformed a very limited space into a blend of art, architecture, and fashion. In doing so, the firm has expanded the boundaries of the 90-square-metre premises with optical illusions. Deconstruction of Three-Dimensional Space The low ceiling on the upper floor and the labyrinthine layout were a major challenge. Therefore, the decision was made to design the multi-brand store for designer brands such as Atelier J.FB, Cochains, Grace Feng, Front, and Mili.Xu like an art gallery and to place cubic, geometric shapes made of raw natural stone in the space like exhibits. By giving the floor, ceiling and walls the same colour, the rooms were deliberately stripped of their three-dimensionality. On the upper floor, a corrugated metal ceiling symbolises the constant change a multi-brand store undergoes, always in flux and renewing itself. The reflecting metal is also intended to create the illusion of scale, as the rooms are only 2.20 metres high. Trongyee Boutique. No. 6 Building, Qinghua Town Shantou, Guardong Province/China
Artistic illusion technique: the low ceiling is breached by the illusion of a reflecting water surface on the ceiling.
Artistic design transforms the store into a gallery.
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Surreal and bizarre: this room projects a moment far in the future, showing people in a digitally overdeveloped environment with a touch of nostalgia.
Gentle Monster’s design concept features Mars as the focal point where our analogue and digital futures meet. SKP-Select knows no boundaries in terms of creativity.
critical, and artistic store designs. The assignment was to redesign the entire mall. It seems it is an open-ended project, especially as the result is a persiflage on the future of the consumer society and the compatibility of digital and analogous worlds.
SKP-Select/Beijing The Mall of Superlatives A pilot project with international appeal opened its doors in Beijing in January. As the embodiment of the Chinese luxury market and its insatiable thirst for Western high fashion status symbols, Shin Kong Palace in Beijing has been the movement’s epicentre since 2007. In order to keep up with the times and – more importantly – the clientele, the luxury mall is gradually evolving into a gigantic department store. This transformation process knows no limits. The entire redesign of SKP-Select, located to the south, was awarded to eyewear brand Gentle Monster of Seoul. The label is renowned for its shrill,
The Future Farm The concept illustrates our irrepressible curiosity about the future, as well as the needs of the day after tomorrow. Gentle Monster recreates our visions and interpretations of possible answers to the most pressing questions through a theatrical experience of space – and is not squeamish about it either. On the Art Experiment Space on the ground floor, Gentle Monster has built its Future Farm, where sheep are processed mechanically as raw material for clothing. Machines have long since grabbed power and are manipulating us humans through artificial intelligence. The entire mall has become a gigantic exhibition that takes an unusually critical look at consumption and art. Shin Kong Palace, 86 Jianguo Lu, 100025 Beijing/China, www.skp-beijing.com style in progress
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Atelier de’ Nerli is located to the left of the Arno (Oltrarno) and borders the hip San Frediano district, in the heart of the Florentine bohemia.
Gianluca Camilotto and Daniele Cavalli are professional partners and friends for life.
Atelier de’ Nerli/Florence Next Generation Cavalli Daniele Cavalli is an entrepreneur, a creative mind, and the son of designer Roberto Cavalli. In 2019, he opened Atelier de’ Nerli in Oltrarno in Florence. The district is known today, as it was then, for the rich craftsmanship tradition that defines the term “Florentine”. “I wished to create a place of symbiosis of Tuscan food culture, Florentine art, and craftsmanship in general. I wanted it to be inviting and warm – a salon where tourists can experience Florence and locals feel at home.” Bordering on the hip and fresh Borgo San Frediano, the location is in fact the perfect blend of art gallery and restaurant. The premises are flooded with light through large arched 124
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windows. The design of the atelier reflects the Cavalli family’s passion for beauty and craftsmanship, which Daniele has also adopted for Atelier de’ Nerli. Craftsmanship Only local “artigiani” were commissioned for the furnishing. The gold-plated mise en place, the crystal jugs by Moleria Locht, and the velvet sofas by Casa Wolf featuring fabrics from the Setificio Fiorentino are punctuated by the bold choice of wall colours. The atmosphere resembles a living room of the Florentine bohemian era: vintage and international, yet still in line with tradition. Chef Gianluca Camilotto, although still young, is already one of the best chefs in Florence. He presents Tuscan cuisine that is simple, but with the highest standards of quality and taste. Atelier de’ Nerli, Piazza Dei Nerli 8/9r, Florence/Italy, ateilerdenerli.it
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Die Macherei/Zurich Design Experience Die Macherei is a creative collective dedicated to local design. Fashion, architecture, handicraft, art, and photography coexist and interact with each other, inspiring each other in interdisciplinary symbiosis. Its home is a cube of considerable height. However, the premises should not be perceived as a museum, but as a meeting place. “The exchange with clients and with each other is the foundation of our concept and encourages collective thought,” says Miranda Kaloudis, who runs Die Macherei with Stefanie Sixt, Chelsea Morrissey, and Stephanie Kunz. The labels on show include functional bags by Sputnik Zurich and MDK, as well as Greengap. The latter offers murals featuring vertical gardens. Guest labels showcase jewellery, footwear, fashion, and even furniture. Their common denominators are local roots and sustainable concepts. Exclusive – Hip – Much Discussed The store is part of Europaallee, a newly developed quarter in close vicinity of the main train station. It is exclusive, hip, and much discussed. As a niche concept, Die Macherei breathes life into the new quarter, as does the neighbouring Kosmos cultural centre with its sophisticated cinema programme, book salon, and bistro. Die Macherei’s highlights include workshops and events such as the usually well-attended “Design Aperós” that showcase the latest collections. Die Macherei, Lagerstrasse 4, Zurich/Switzerland. www.diemacherei.ch Gallery? Boutique? Die Macherei is a flexible thought and space concept that offers a home for young designers and artists.
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The Strangers Club/Cape Town Adventurers and Collectors Emma Vith has been running The Strangers Club with former schoolmate Adam Reilly for nigh on three years. It all began with a small weekend market in her parents’ warehouse. Incidentally, they run a store named Out of this World right next to The Strangers Club. There they have, for the last 25 years, been trading in sustainable and ethically produced African “Back to the Roots” art, as well as in handmade interior design items. Under the tutelage of her father Peter, 23-year-old Emma, who was born and raised in Cape Town and studied Business & Branding, spent a year up-cycling the store interior with old stock material. The club started out as a café and deli with a huge courtyard. It has since established itself as a meeting place for the creative and fashion industries. Its shaded terraces provide the perfect setting for meetings and remote working. For the past year, the rear part of the club has housed a store that exclusively stocks fashion, jewellery, accessories, and beauty products by African brands, ninety percent of which hail from Cape Town. Besides quality, design, and haptics, the main selection criteria for inclusion are ethically responsible production methods, the ethos of the respective manufacturers, and products that are not widely available elsewhere in the Cape Town area. The Strangers Club is a café, a creative hub for Cape Town’s international community, and an internationally connected store with a regional product range. It unites the traditional and contemporary aspects of Africa.
The Strangers Club, 1 Braemar Rd, Cape Town/South Africa www.thestrangersclub.co.za
The Strangers Club, a 250-square-metre venue, is hidden in a side street of Cape Town’s Greenpoint district.
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International flair coupled with the richness in detail so typical for the country: the Robinsons department store is not only the largest of its kind in the Middle East, but also undoubtedly the one that pays most attention to detail.
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Robinsons/United Arab Emirates Oasis of Inspiration Being the largest department store in the Middle East is a major achievement in itself. However, Dubai-based Al Futtaim Group went far beyond merely investing in pomp and glamour. Visitors can expect straightforward, effortless store design – ornamental in details, but incredibly modern. Architecture studio HMKM has created the largest department store in the Middle East in Dubai. It offers 20,000 square metres of prime retail space. In terms of marketing and visual merchandising, Exalis has established clear guidelines. The brand promise of providing an oasis of inspiration was implemented in collaboration with internationally renowned artist and photographer Ernesto Artillo. In-store shop windows, artistic visual merchandising, and an opening event that truly deserved the label “grand” – Al Futtaim Group relies heavily on interactive animations, customising studios, and master classes on various topics. Advisor of the mall, Mayouri Sengchanh was profoundly impressed by the freedom to pay attention to every detail: “A signature fragrance for every department, as well as mood-lifting music or lighting tailored to each section… The Robinsons department store pays close attention to every detail.” Robinsons, Ground floor Level 1 & 2 Dubai Festival City Mall, Dubai/United Arab Emirates style in progress
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There are two Izmee models, IZ ON and IZ OFF. The ON model is made of food grade 304 stainless steel and features the innovative Q3System, which consists of two steel partitions and a copper layer, keeping liquids inside hot for 12h and cold for 24h. ON is available in three sizes: 810 ml, 510 ml, 310 ml. OFF is also made of food grade 304 stainless steel and impresses with extreme lightness of a mere 126 grams. OFF is also available in three sizes: 500 ml, 550 ml and 860 ml. All bottles are BPAfree and, in addition to the steel cap, feature a special base: non-slip, with a mirror-effect, customisable (e.g. name engraving), and noiseless (no unpleasant clinking noise when putting it down). The bottles are available in approximately 100 different textures and colours.
Serial entrepreneur Enrico Accettola launched his drinking bottles at the 300 best fashion stores in Italy.
IZMEE
ITALIAN-MADE SUSTAINABLE DRINKING BOTTLES WITH CULT POTENTIAL Italian serial entrepreneur Enrico Accettola has launched a new project: Izmee drinking bottles with high fashion appeal. Speaking to style in progress, he reveals why he believes they can achieve cult status. Text: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Photos: Izmee
Mr Accettola, you – as a multi-faceted entrepreneur, communications expert and serial entrepreneur – simply have to explain to us how one comes up with an idea like Izmee: a sustainable and practical drinking bottle as a fashion item. After twenty years of business, one yearns for something really meaningful. Not that I lacked anything in my career, but it was time to give something back. I asked myself what and how, and the answer was quickly found. There were two options: either donate and/ or encourage change. My project is based on both of these principles. I want to do something for the environment, encourage people to drink water from their own bottles, and, at the same time, cooperate with a non-profit organisation. Plastic has to go, but the bottles should not only fulfil their purpose, but also 128
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look great. Like the mobile phone, it should become an everyday companion: to the office, to sports, and also at home. It would be fantastic if Izmee would become the “Made in Italy” fashion must-have of the next few years, exclusively available in high-end shops as a true “accessory”. Perhaps this could increase green awareness among everyone, including super fashion-conscious customers. The environment has long been a concern for our society, but it takes a product with a certain appeal at a fair price to reach everyone. In addition, for every bottle sold, a donation goes to CESVI, a non-profit organisation that defends human rights. What makes a start-up successful these days? If there is something I would like to share with my younger start-up colleagues, it is to have a clear vision and to stay true to it, and to find the right ambassadors. I referred to our mission in the previous answer. In the case of Izmee, it was obvious from the outset that we want to rely on exclusivity in terms of retailers. We want to help them with the introduction of the product. We deliberately approached the best high-end stores in Italy only, and these 300 stores started selling our bottles in mid-June. The merchandise had
been in stock for ages, but we still delayed online sales. It was incredibly important to us not to disadvantage the retailers. Furthermore, there are certain models that are exclusively available in stores. Customers can find them on the Internet, but cannot buy them online. Simply click on the product and enter your location to find out which retailers stock the model in question. Which projects are planned for the DACH region? We are only just getting started abroad. We are thrilled to have Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz on board. He immersed himself in the product, fell in love with it, and has never stopped providing positive input for our product launch in this very important market. We are also aiming for the high-end segment in Germany and are very proud that a retailer like Loden-Frey has already placed a first order. We will definitely also collaborate with relevant influencers in Germany and are very confident that our “drink à porter” concept can gain a foothold there too. German customers have always attached great importance to the environment and Italian craftsmanship. That is exactly what Izmee is: sustainable, practical, beautiful, and with a design 100% “Made in Italy”.
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In Italy, the collection has become one of the most sought-after trouser ranges in the premium segment in record time: Michael Coal.
Michele Carbone – or Michael Coal – comes from a traditional Neapolitan shirt manufacturing family and ventured into a completely new product group: trousers.
MICHAEL COAL
THE SMOOTHEST TROUSERS “MADE IN NAPLES” Trouser specialist Michael Coal from Naples is celebrating its tenth anniversary this year. style in progress talked to Michele Carbone, CEO and Creative Director of Michael Coal, about the status quo and plans for the future. Interview: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Photos: Michael Coal
Michele, Michael Coal is celebrating its tenth anniversary in this very unusual year. How did your latest label come about? Why trousers? My brothers and I actually started out in shirt production. We produced shirts for other labels for years, at some point I was looking for a new incentive. I wanted to learn something new. That is how we started making trousers. The engineering and drawing of trousers fascinates me. I really enjoy creating this particular type of garment. How did the brand develop? What are your future prospects? At first I wanted to take it slowly and only sold the trousers to shops in three Italian regions: Veneto, Lombardy, and Campania. The pieces were well received, as they are a “Made in Italy” product and suit a mid to
high end retail segment, but are still extremely attractive in price. Today, we are among the three best-selling trouser brands in Italy and are ready for new adventures. We have greatly strengthened the company internally in recent years, investing in production, customer care, and the build-up of our stock. In addition, we naturally also closely monitored the markets that attract our interest. Expansion abroad is therefore our next step, and in Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz of D-tails we have found the right partner for Germany. He, as a half-Italian, understands the label and, at the same time, addresses the wishes and needs of the German customers. The next destination after Germany is Belgium, and so on. One step at a time – carefully but determinedly. We internalised this approach during the lockdown. Since you mention it, how was the shutdown for you? Same as for everyone else – very sudden and violent. Italy had to react quickly and many industries were abandoned by the state. We made the best of it, focused on the eventual reopening, and tried to continue providing
a good service to our customers by offering discounts and allowing customers to store merchandise in our warehouse. We have learned to be even more flexible and to stick together. We collaborate with various workshops between Naples and Benevento, and support 350 families. When the short-time work salaries were late, it was obvious that we would advance them. We are a team. The only way to survive the crisis was together. And now a more light-hearted question to conclude: What is your vision of the fashion-conscious man? There is no such thing as just one vision. Everyone has his or her own style and should be allowed to find it and experiment with it. At the moment, I quite like a relaxed and “grown-up” version of Lord Fauntleroy from the movie “The Little Lord” – classic, stylish, and yet uncomplicated. I like trousers with a little volume, like the ones from our upcoming collection. I combine them with a t-shirt or shirt, depending on the occasion, and then add a casual field jacket. A mix of styles from South Korea and Japan with a lot of Italian flair, which I believe is currently cool and up-to-date. style in progress
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Sophie Mechaly founded the Paul & Joe brand, owns the visionary Parisian menswear store Boys Don’t Cry, and is a passionate art collector. For style in progress she shares the three artists who inspire her most.
“Art Is My Inspiration”
Genieve Figgis: Colour Intensity and Irony “Her painting technique is incredible. The way she uses colours and references historical paintings in a very fresh, romantic, and strange way is unique. Many of her paintings are inspired by old masters like Fragonard, Goya, or Vermeer, but are then deformed and ridiculed. The faces become grimaces, while the surroundings turn into psychedelic fantasy worlds. Her sceneries are often romantic, even bordering on kitsch, and could be scenes from a fairy tale.” Genieve Figgis: Genieve Figgis, Picnic, 2018, Acrylic on canvas, 60 x 80 x 4 cm 23 5/8 x 31 1/2 x 1 5/8in © Genieve Figgis - Photo: Rebecca Fanuele Courtesy of the Artist and Almine Rech
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Sayre Gomez: Dystopia and Photorealism “I discovered his work in one of my favourite smaller galleries in LA, the Ghebaly Gallery. I especially love his photorealistic paintings, usually combined with randomly found objects. He uses everyday life items to transport you into a different world. One of my favourite works of Sayre is a painting that features real door handles and stickers. You have the feeling of finding yourself in an American diner, looking out onto a slightly dystopian paradise – without a single human in sight. Other paintings also show scenes from American everyday life with a total absence of people.” Sayre Gomez: Sayre Gomez, Hungry Boy, 2019, Acrylic on canvas, 72 x 108 inches Courtesy of the Artist and François Ghebaly, Los Angeles Photo: Robert Wedemeyer
Vanessa Stockard: Rich in Contrast and Caricatural “Vanessa’s work is dreamy, dark, and humorous. I came across her paintings because we share a love for cats. I love the way she incorporates her cats into almost every painting. Her naïve and caricatural approach is very close to the aesthetic of my own brand. I love to mix floral archive prints with modern fabrics. Stockard places her cats on a cute chair in a huge dark room. Her choice of colour and her rough yet sensitive brushstrokes, as well as her very girly elements combined with an edgy, darker atmosphere, are very inspiring for me.” Vanessa Stockard: Vanessa Stockard, Floof, 40x40 cm
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Soaring sales figures year after year, record prices for the works of significant artists – Ketterer Kunst can certainly be described as a shooting star among auction houses worldwide. Owner Robert Ketterer shares his personal “Top 3” of the most exciting artists.
“I Am Incredibly Inquisitive”
Katharina Grosse: Colour and Meticulousness “I am a huge fan of Katharina Grosse! She is incredibly colourful and expressive. The more famous she becomes, the more meticulous and decelerated she gets. She then questions herself even more critically or retreats to New Zealand to work in peace for six months. She could sell ten times as much, especially as she is represented at Gagosian in NY, which is the largest gallery ever. However, she steadfastly refuses to succumb to the temptation to do so. In a market dominated by successful artists producing in bulk, her approach has a very soothing effect on me.” Katharina Grosse: Katharina Grosse, Mumbling Mud – Underground, 2018, chi K11 art museum, Shanghai, China, Acrylic on soil and various objects, 370 x 1.620 x 2.400 cm, © Katharina Grosse und VG Bild-Kunst, Bonn, 2019; Commissioned by chi K11 art museum; Courtesy Galerie nächst St. Stephan/ Rosemarie Schwarzwälder, Wien / Foto: JJYPHOTO
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Njideka Akunyili Crosby: Self-Confidence and Authenticity “I first encountered the works of Nigerian artist Njideka Akunyili Crosby at ‘Haus der Kunst’. She addresses her origins and traditional gender roles. She explores both subjects in a very subtle manner, utilising many interior scenes. Her works almost remind me of the beginnings of Pop Art, a little like the subjects of Tom Wesselmann’s works. Crosby is not really an established name as yet, but she is a rising – and very bright – star in the firmament of art. She seems real to me, because she has developed her own style without bowing to trends.” Njideka Akunyili Crosby: Njideka Akunyili Crosby, Haus der Kunst München Photograph: Brigitte Sire
Sterling Ruby: Expression and Pop Culture “American artist Sterling Ruby explores a variety of techniques. Sometimes he expresses himself on large-scale sprayed canvases, other times in collages, sculptures, or video works. Raf Simons has often drawn inspiration from Ruby. Now the artist has created his own fashion line in collaboration with S.R.Studio. LA.CA. The pieces resemble painting canvases splattered with paint, thus referencing the pop cultures of Ruby’s youth. What I like most about them is that they are unique and new, with a high recognition value. That is such an important aspect of today’s art, and possibly also of today’s fashion.” Sterling Ruby: S.R.Studio LA.CA.
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JOCHEN ZEITZ
“I BELIEVE IN THE TRANSFORMATIVE POWER OF ART” Until 2012, Jochen Zeitz was CEO of Puma, where he introduced a long-term sustainability programme commencing in 2010. He was also heavily involved in sustainable projects while he served on Kering’s supervisory board. Today, Zeitz is CEO and Chairman of the Board of Harley Davidson. His great love is Africa. His collection of contemporary African art has been on display at the Museum of Contemporary African Art in Cape Town since 2017. style in progress sat down for a chat with the visionary manager.
Jochen Zeitz is an expert and admirer of the African continent and its culture. He speaks six foreign languages, including Swahili, and runs a farm in Kenya.
Interview: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Huft & Crow
The Zeitz MOCAA Museum was established in a former grain silo in Cape Town harbour. The roof now houses a hotel.
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Why the Zeitz MOCAA? Why Cape Town? The establishment of the Zeitz MOCAA came about through a confluence of factors. In 2008, I decided to build a world-class collection of contemporary art from Africa and its diaspora. The idea and vision behind it was to create a major museum collection that one day could be housed on the African continent. Simultaneously, the V&A Waterfront in Cape Town recognised the significance of its grain silo complex as an historic complex. The debate about possible uses lasted years. The desire was to house something of public civic significance that is open to the public. It was eventually decided to turn the space into an art museum, for which a collection was needed. Our visions were aligned. We met with the team at the V&A Waterfront and took it from there. You are a pioneer of the sustainability debate. You demanded early on that environmental factors should become balance sheet factors. Does the same apply to the promotion of art? Absolutely. The museum places significant emphasis on educational training and school programmes, in the hope of inspiring younger generations and maintaining access for all. What role should art play in a global corporation? I believe in the transformative power of art. It contributes to cultural evolutions, and changes perceptions and behaviour. Art opens new horizons. For too long, there have not been sufficient opportunities for the incredible creativity and artistic talent from Africa to be presented to the world. What can the fashion industry learn from art? The fashion industry and the art world are already inextricably linked. Creativity, uniqueness, and innovation are fundamental to both. So in the same way that we need to provide platforms for a diversity of artists, we must do so for anyone in fashion. Of course, the practice must always be sustainable. Conduct business in such a way that it looks to the betterment of the current and future generations. www.zeitzmocaa.museum
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Increasingly complete yet still a jacket brand - Parajumpers performs this balancing act perfectly.
PARAJUMPERS
BRAND IN FOCUS A permanent fixture in the jacket sector: Parajumpers is expanding its collection around its core product. The unique Parajumpers spirit is inherent in all these new products. style in progress sat down for a chat with the brand’s international sales manager Cristina Paulon. Interview: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Parajumpers
Much has changed in the collection; it has become broader. Do you still consider yourself a “jacket brand”? Absolutely, Parajumpers remains a jackets brand. That is what we do best, and where we are unique. It is where our core competences lie and what gave the brand its identity. However, being a brand means that what you are good at becomes a promise of quality and style in many other categories too. Customers love our hoodies and crew necks, ask for our logo tees and polos, and also believe in our hybrids collection. The most recent introduction is a beautiful line of pants from our soon-to-be-presented very latest SS21 collection, made of incredibly comfortable yet sophisticated materials. Last but not least, our accessories line features some incredibly cool backpacks and summer caps, with the look and feel of our greatest outerwear pieces.
During the pandemic, brands and retailers alike were forced to find creative solutions. What are the positive lessons your company has taken away from these traumatic weeks? I would consider two great takeaways. From an internal organisational standpoint, it is the importance of swiftly adapting strategies and plans to ever-changing contexts, especially when such a dramatic and unique event occurs. From a brand management and/or commercial point of view, it is the importance of keeping the brand’s own values at the centre of all consumer strategies. Brands that were able to connect with their end consumers due to a great background story, as well as great storytelling in general, have managed to keep their community close, even during such a terrible period. Do you expect consumer behaviour to change? How will consumers react? Some customers will probably be more mindful of what they buy, or how much they spend. These customers will most likely prefer to buy risk-free and standard products, simple and safe. On the other hand, some
customers will seek to gain more positive vibes from their new purchases, preferring inspirational pieces – almost as a symbol of rebirth. They will prioritise editorial colours and shapes, as well as interesting details and characteristics, over the most obvious choices. We place more hope in the second type as a typical Parajumpers customer. This is what our spring/summer collection reflects. This order round will be very different. What measures are you taking to ensure that all retailers have access to all relevant information about the collection, to make sure they understand the background story? Naturally, we offer a virtual showroom containing all information about the collection and all styles worn by models. It is important to give customers the necessary tools to see the collection and to make their life, as well as the life of sales representatives, as easy as possible. However, we plan to try and avoid substituting showroom appointments wherever possible while respecting all implemented safety protocols. style in progress
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The Olson twins consider the adopted New Yorker Beatrix Ost an inspiration. The artist studied with Oskar Kokoschka, among others, and came to New York in the mid-1970s.
BEATRIX OST
“WOMEN CAN BE GOOD-LOOKING AND WELL-DRESSED AND ALSO BE ARTISTS”
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Born in Stuttgart in 1940, Beatrix Ost exhibited her paintings and sculptures in the US and Germany after moving to New York in the mid-70s, and yet she considers herself not pushy enough for the business side of art. More than 50,000 Instagram followers consider Ost an icon herself, with her signature blue or violet hair, her knack for an Edwardian style combined with pieces by designers like Azzedine Alaia or Yunya Watanabe, as well as her own creations. In 2016, the Olsen twins’ fashion label The Row revealed Ost as their muse. For the artist, however, crossing the line between art and fashion has also led to discrimination. Interview: Petrina Engelke. Photos: Stacey Evans
Ms. Ost, you had a famous teacher: Oskar Kokoschka. How did that come about? He had a school in Salzburg. He would only let us do watercolours, and we had to sketch nudes while they did slow movements. When I brought those back to Munich, a wealthy fellow I knew there bought almost everything. From that period, everything just flew out the window. How did you make new connections later, when you came to New York? That was a very dramatic change. I became a surrealistic painter, and I could not find a gallery, even though there were women who owned galleries like Mary Boone. Through some channel you would give them your slides and your résumé and then you got a phone call for an interview. When I came into the gallery, I could tell she already thought: This one is not getting in here. There was a whole group who occupied the art scene. They all came from Yale and everybody was in a certain uniform. I was too elegant for the art world. How would an artist have to look to fit in? Well, very casual, wearing jeans and no make-up, and fitting the lingo as well. I was just not that. In the 70s and 80s, I was often dismissed when I said that I am an artist. They said: “No, you are so good-looking, are you not in fashion?” Today, it is a totally different scene. You can be enormously elegant and chic, you can show your success, and you can be yourself. Women can be good-looking and well-dressed and also be artists.
Let us return to the unamusing aspect of art. At the end of the day, you need to sell. Yeah. I had two children very early in my life, and I was divorced. In order to be free as a painter, I made money on the side. I did a lot of fashion shoots as a model and made really good money with that in Germany. Fast forward to today: Apart from your art, you design jewellery for Article 22. Yes. The little snakes came out this fall and they were a hot seller over Christmas. I was always told: “Beatrix, get into fashion, you will be so successful.” However, I soon figured out that 95 percent of fashion is business and 5 percent is creativity. You have to have a business mind to do fashion, and that did not interest me greatly. I would, however, love to see fashion houses invite artists and let them be artistic. Is that not kind of what happen with the Olson twins? We were seeing each other in some kind of scene in New York and then did a photo shoot. They did not come to me and say: “What would you think, what should we do?” They only cited me as an interesting person and inspiration. Did that have any consequences for you? I have a lot of Instagram followers now and I am not really doing much on the platform, just posting a few photos. You have also been one of the subjects of a book called “The Art of Dressing”. Would you agree that dressing is an art? I think dressing should be a form of self-expression. So therefore it is the art of the self. We are all exquisite creatures, because we are human beings. When you see that, and you see yourself, then you can create something around your body, which is a gift. The only thing we can control is ourselves and our own actions. I think the effort to dress in the morning, that is for your own wellbeing. Do you wear a belt over it? Do you put a bouquet of flowers on the little lapel? Do you combine it with something completely contrary? That is you, that is your artistic moment.
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NU-IN
“SUSTAINABILTY AND SHORT SHELF-LIVES CAN GO TOGETHER” Fashion forward, always sustainable – the Nu-In brand is proof that sustainability is also feasible for a fast-moving fashion collection. In collaboration with Stefanie Griesinger and Marcus Butler, industrial mastermind Mike Mikkelborg conceived the brand as his ultimate masterpiece. Then came COVID-19 – and actually made Nu-In all the more successful. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Nu-In
It took Nu-In no more than 14 days after the launch – which took place during a worldwide pandemic no less – to surpass the desired sales figures for the launch month. Congratulations! We are so grateful for the phenomenal customer response to our fashion first, affordable, and entirely sustainable business model. Not in my wildest imagination did I think we would meet sales targets when the pandemic and global economic crisis were not even on the radar yet. We spent our first weekends scrambling to restock quickly enough to meet the demand. Our supply base has been phenomenal throughout. Pre-planning with dye/print materials on hand, as well as our dedicated capacities, are putting us to the test. The ability to react to demand has never been more important. Our investments in effective systems, the demand analytics tool Tiyo.app, and a responsive, consumer-focused buying team with retail mentality will allow us to take advantage of this dream scenario even more efficiently. Why did your latest business venture succeed so quickly? It is really quite simple. There are four discounting periods, no more. They are well-planned and short. We have adopted a supply-to-demand strategy that harnesses consumer demand insights and have tied that into a world-class speed-to-market business model. Furthermore, we utilise new technologies such as Sizolution. This sizing app allows us to avoid unnecessary returns, which not only makes our customers happier, but also prevents the devaluation of merchandise. Sustainability is often equated with slow fashion, but Nu-In is as quick as the influencers that promote the brand. Is that not a contradiction? This is, in my opinion, a misconception. Offering new trends with short shelf lives does not create waste as long as supply and demand are balanced in advance. In 2019, more than 1 billion garments were produced, but a shocking 200 million items were never sold. That constitutes a horrible waste and is a completely unnecessary oversupply of goods. If companies adopted demand-driven, speed-to-market strategies, we would only produce what is needed rather than waste. 138
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Nu-In proves that a fashion forward brand can be sustainable.
Stefanie Griesinger (seated right) and Marcus Butler (seated left) are not merely the faces of the Nu-In brand, but also own the sustainable fashion brand with Mike Mikkelborg (far right).
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Silent sensuality: “The whole magic lies in the right cuts,” is how Michaela Sassenbach describes her design philosophy for the Sassenbach jersey collection.
SASSENBACH
NEVER OUT OF STYLE Her designs thrive on silhouettes that consistently focus on clarity and consciously avoid decoration. Michaela Sassenbach has the vision of an all-in-one piece that can be worn in the morning to mow the lawn and in the evening at the opera, with sensitive elegance and wearing comfort. One of her success secrets: a special high-tech jersey material from Italy. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Sassenbach
“My first encounter with the material was actually a coincidence. I met a former study colleague on the street who is responsible for the distribution of the material, and so one thing led to another,” Michaela Sassenbach explains. What makes her so enthusiastic about the jersey material? “It is light, super casual, and uncomplicated – yet elegant, timeless, sustainable, and fairly produced.” The focus on this one fabric quality is the common thread of every collection, it creates a serene look and best expresses the design
style. The whole magic lies in the right cuts, because the look is very tidy and thrives on the simplicity of the silhouettes. “It simply makes women beautiful,” says the designer. Her collection is sophisticated. Sassenbach deduces this standard from herself as a prototype for her typical customer. As a working mother of three children, the trained fashion designer was always on the lookout for clothes that you could slip into, feel comfortable in, and always look good in. The wearing comfort of her multi-talented garments still remains the top priority to this day, closely followed by a strict production philosophy: the fabric originates from Italy and manufacturing takes place in Germany. Sassenbach attaches great importance to appropriate payment and adherence to deadlines. In addition, the environment should be polluted as little as possible, so production is made to order and transport routes are kept as short as possible. LOCAL PRODUCTION = SERVICE
“Production in Germany makes it possible to re-order at very short notice,” explains Mari-
on Hoferer of fashion agency ModeIst as just one of the many advantages of working with Sassenbach. In addition to the classic main collections for summer and winter, the brand also offers small intermediate programmes and new colours. The jersey material comes in several thicknesses, covering a wide range of applications including shirts, blouses, trousers, dresses, jumpsuits, blazers, and coats. “The soft fabric is breathable, crease-resistant and uncomplicated. This creates a style twist combining elegance, comfort and nonchalance for every occasion,” says Marion Hoferer, describing the enormous potential she sees in Sassenbach in the stationary retail sector. “Online, the brand is exclusively available at its retail partners, not on any platforms.” The list of reference customers already features Daniels in Cologne and Munich, Moosbrugger in Rottach Egern, and Bailly Diehl. Sassenbach started out small and very subtle, a matter close to the heart of the designer, whose slow fashion approach places great emphasis on sustainability and care: “It is so much fun to watch Sassenbach grow, step by step.” style in progress
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CRE
ACT IVITY THERE IS SO MUCH CREATIVITY IN ACTION. TURNING CHAOS INTO A NEW, BETTER STRUCTURE IS THE ORDER OF THE DAY.
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C r e-AC T- i t v i t y
SO WHAT IS BETTER NOW?
The time for reflection was perhaps the most valuable aspect of the weeks that Europe was in lockdown. Removed from their everyday routines, many companies seized the opportunity to take advantage of change. style in progress went forth to find out which changes are still in place after the re-opening and which have brought about positive developments. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Illustrations: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler
DESIRABILITY AND RELIABILITY
WORKING TOGETHER
Norbert Gresch, owner of Agentur Norbert Gresch “I have received a great deal of feedback on the petition I started, which gives me great confidence that there is a large number of people who want to make a difference and change things in this industry. Apart from that, the contact and exchange with our retailers has intensified even more. We now make zoom calls and exchange information on topics beyond the sales lists. This energy really inspires me.”
Uwe Bernecker, owner of Funky Staff “Our formula has always been desirability and reliability on a hanger – even before the crisis started. Now, however, we have learned how much these two values are proving true at all levels. First and foremost, the look has to be consistent, unique, and spontaneously appealing. We are pleased that our brand is recognised as such. Once this core task has been accomplished, it is important to be an honest and reliable partner for retailers. In turn, I believe that we, as a brand, can also demand honesty and reliability from producers, agents, and retail partners. We have experienced a positive selection process, which is reflected in our strong gains in the early order days. We think, manufacture, and deliver ready-to-wear.”
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A NEW US
Olaf Schmid, Vice President Textiles & Textile Technologies of Messe Frankfurt “The decision of Premium Group and Messe Frankfurt regarding Frankfurt was made before the corona crisis. However, the current situation also creates opportunities from which the Frankfurt Fashion Week can benefit: new ways of thinking and solutions. The industry is undergoing a transformation towards increased digital networking, innovative production, and sustainability. Our aim is to set new standards with future-oriented approaches and formats, and to create a shared platform for the industry. We strive to convey a new sense of unity, which is what people are currently longing for more than ever.”
REAL EXCHANGE
Gregor Grüner, co-owner of Grüner “Communication has improved – both between our customers and us, and between our brands and us. We have received plenty of encouragement for our open, honest communication. On the industry side, a number of brands have earned tremendous merit for providing very concrete support – for example, by providing us with in-demand merchandise, photos, and product data. This partnership will pay off for brands, because it will certainly influence the budgets we have to decide on this season.”
AN EXCITING SEASON
Damir Prins-Juric, co-owner of Agentur Prins-Juric “The shutdown has shown that THE fashion industry does not exist. Small shops have other interests than big verticals, brands have other concerns than agents… Nevertheless, I have the impression that understanding and appreciation for each other has increased. We agencies, in particular, can prove what our services are worth this season – without trade shows and random hits. I am really looking forward to that.” 142
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RUBY HOTELS
“A WIN-WIN SITUATION FOR ALL” Michael Struck, founder of Ruby Hotels, has surprised his peers on several occasions. With a sleek, modern, and deeply digitised hotel concept, his hotels and workspaces surpass their competitors in terms of cost efficiency, performance, customer loyalty, and comfort factor. Now the group is beginning to make a name for itself in the conversion of retail space. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Ruby Hotels, Thorsten Jochim
x Hotels Ruby rogress p in IAL! style SPEC SON A E and S t R coun ing ORDE ate dis ney by us e r m o o o r th m t e % a v 5 1 st: sa n booking e reakfa free b e “SIP” wh in Munich d the co uby Hotels eldorf. R üss and D m/sip tels.co y b ho u .r w ww
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he test run in Düsseldorf ’s Kö-Galerie, where Hotel Ruby Coco moved into the premises above the stores, has proved to be a resounding success. Now Ruby Hotels, a group of hotels and workspaces in Germany, Austria, Switzerland, the UK, and Finland, is moving into Stuttgart’s Gerber complex. The demanding conversion is scheduled to start in autumn 2021. 8,000 square metres of former retail area will be turned into 150 hotel rooms and 1,700 square metres of coworking space. “The conversion of retail space in the heart of Stuttgart constitutes a milestone for us,” says Michael Struck, CEO and founder of Ruby Hotels. The entrepreneur has been setting new industry standards with his “Lean Luxury” concept for several years. As a former management consultant and experienced senior executive, Michael Struck created the Ruby Hotels by combining his wealth of professional knowledge with an agile, modern hospitality concept. “We rely heavily on centralisation and digitisation. By centralising and largely automating administration, reservations, marketing, and other tasks, we create synergies, higher quality assurance, and, of course, a commercial advantage. Our cost position is therefore twice as good as that of competitors who generate the same revenue per room and deliver, from the guests’ perspective, the same level of quality. Compared to our competitors’ 35 to 30 percent, our personnel costs merely represent 17 to 19 percent. This results in, above all, an enormous fixed cost advantage, with which we can compensate cyclical and economic fluctuations more effectively. While competitors require 60 to 65 percent occupancy to reach their break-even point, we merely require 40 percent. I could go on and on about this list of parameters that we have been tweaking continuously. The most important message, however, is that when margins are under pressure,
Win-win: Ruby Hotels is breaking new ground with the conversion of retail space, for example in Stuttgart’s Gerber complex. Vacancies are replaced by hotel rooms and coworking spaces – no wonder Michael Struck’s ideas are appealing to investors.
as is the case in the hotel industry, you can either moan about it, or you can adapt, think, find solutions, and invest.” Michael Struck attaches particular importance to the idea that the experience for the guest or employee should never suffer, but should, if anything, improve. “Our Lean Luxury concept takes a very close look at what guests perceive as essential and what can be omitted. I believe this can be a useful analogy for the fashion industry. Bling and status are no longer key for modern customers. The focus is on quality, durability, and individual well-being. Allow me to return to the language of hotels. Our guests will happily forego marble reception halls and golden taps as long as they can experience cutting-edge design, efficient operations, and a tangible spirit.”
WHAT'S THE STORY
C r e-AC T- i t v i t y
LET THE GAMES BEGIN Who in your company was the real driving force behind digitisation? Your CEO? Your CTO? Or was it COVID-19? A meme that did the rounds during the crisis hits the nail on the head. The shutdown/lockdown phase has made digital formats the new standard. In line with manufacturers, the last few months have been defined by heavy investments by agencies, trade shows, and B2B platforms. We are currently living through the acid test of a season without leading trade fairs. Better: we are experiencing it digitally. style in progress has compiled what various players are planning and implementing. Editors: Janaina Engelmann-BrothĂĄnek, Isabel Faiss, Martina MĂźllner-Seybold, Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Brands and interviewees
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C r e-AC T- i t v i t y
Colect.io offers subscription models of its software solutions for B2B orders, B2B web shops, virtual showrooms, digital showrooms, and in-store solutions. Arthur Hoffman was appointed as executive director one year ago.
“EVEN WE MISS TRADE SHOWS” Arthur Hoffman is the executive director of Colect.io. Around 400 brands use the company’s Software-as-a-Service solution. Colect. io has set its sight on the German market of late, which is demonstrated by the appointment of Thomas Ott to the advisory board. The company has also signed a cooperation agreement with Katag AG.
Arthur, a season without trade shows surely means that your solutions – such as B2B sales platforms, virtual showrooms, and endless aisles – are experiencing a huge boost? That is true. At least we no longer need to explain the benefits of a virtual showroom or a B2B ordering tool. However, even we miss the personal contact a trade show can offer. It is, quite simply, the perfect tool for that kind of exchange. Getting to know each other, gaining an idea of our product – without this initial contact, the sales cycle is indeed longer. With Marc O’Polo, a really significant German player has pledged support for Colect.io. Was there much champagne? Yes, we are very proud of the achievement. We are also proud that we managed to recruit Thomas Ott as a board member and Robert Braaksma as a Berlin-based contact person for Germany. The same applies to our partnership with Katag AG. Every new customer is a new challenge for us, to help the respective brand to achieve a distinctive and strong identity.
Can this succeed in a world in which many standards must be adhered to simply for reasons of usability or compatibility? Definitely, because they ensure that users navigate intuitively, allowing us to focus on the brand, its story, and its products. I think that is a very important aspect. Despite all the technical factors, it is essential to remember that we are talking about a physical product that has a look and a certain fit. It is worn in a specific way. In addition to the well-known players, the pandemic has flushed a whole range of B2B ordering tools, virtual showrooms, and online trade fairs onto the market. How many of these will ultimately survive? Our field of vision is still blurred. The medium-term consequences of the Corona crisis are only just beginning to manifest themselves. However, it is already clear that the digital workload in an order is increasing. We will all benefit from this. In the long term, however, I believe that the field will level off at three to four players. style in progress
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TRANSFORMATION
Premium x Joor Experience the Premium in digital form? Premium Group has made this possible by teaming up with Joor, the world’s largest B2B wholesale platform, to create a digital event called Premium+Seek Passport. Via a website and the Passport app, the brands’ look books and key looks, curated by the Premium and Seek trade shows, can be viewed and ordered in virtual showrooms. In addition, retailers are informed comprehensively about general trend stories and key topics such as sustainability. “It was the next logical step for us to consolidate our digital offering with Premium+Seek Passport in order to offer our customers a seamless transition between online and offline,” says Anita Tillmann, the Managing Partner of Premium Group. “Digitisation is a fantastic opportunity for brands and buyers to remain relevant and conduct international business.” The digital Premium+Seek Passport launched on the 14th of July and extends into October 2020. For the autumn/winter 2021/22 season, the digital experience is to merge with the physical in an event in Berlin. There, brands and retailers can exchange contacts, make appointments, and order directly via the mobile Passport app. www.premiumexhibitions.com
Premium Group transfers its recipe for success into the digital world with the Premium+Seek Passport event.
Vevently launched its virtual showroom pilot project in collaboration with fashion agency Ben And in mid-July.
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“WE ARE NOT ABOUT QUANTITY...”
Vevently …but about quality”, says Drako Palic. In mid-July, his company and fashion agency Ben And launched the Vevently platform. It not only provides a virtual showroom, but is also intended to offer a wide variety of expansion options enabling the digitisation of other internal agency processes. Developed by IT Experts. All three team members – Gerhard Wartha, Darko Palic, and Stefan Hoferer – have many years of experience in this genre and in finding service-oriented solutions for agencies. “We digitally mirror the respective agency showroom and equip it with all the features that users are already familiar with from e-commerce. Personal contact with the customer, direct communication, and the individual user experience are our top priorities. We employ tools such as augmented reality and virtual reality to make this experience even more exciting,” explains Gerhard Wartha. 24/7 Service. “Every customer must be able to log in to view the collections 24/7. We have to be faster and more flexible, even in terms of scheduling,” explains Stefan Hoferer, who brings industry know-how to the table. He sees enormous potential for Vevently as a “hybrid solution” that combines the virtual with the real. www.vevently.com
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WHAT’S THE STORY
Giulio Di Sabato, one of the initiators of Best Showroom and owner of Sari Spazio Fashion Showroom: “Every crisis presents opportunities. You have to learn how to ride the wave of the crisis. That is easer as a unit than as a lone warrior.”
BEST SHOWROOM
“WE NEED UNITY AND DIGITAL EXCELLENCE” Milan’s fashion showrooms are joining forces. Under the leadership of Giulio Di Sabato, the owner of Sari Spazio Fashion Showroom and president of Assomoda, they have agreed to create Best Showroom. In collaboration with the trade association Confcommercio Milano, as well as other showrooms such as Gruppo Zappieri Showroom, Casile & Casile, and Studio Zeta, Best Showroom aims to consolidate resources. The first goal: the digitisation of the spring/summer 2021 order cycle.
You, in cooperation with Confcommercio Milano and other colleagues, have set up a network of showrooms. Is the crisis the perfect opportunity to turn visions into reality? I firmly believe that times of crisis always present many opportunities. The Greek word crisis (krísis) means choice and decision. So it is up to us whether we want to ride the wave of the crisis, or drown in it. I have 30 years of experience in this business – first as owner of Sari Spazio Fashion Showroom,
then as President of Assomoda and active member of Confcommercio Milano. I have been observing for a fairly long time how agents and distributors in Italy, as well as in many other countries, tend to act on their own. We quickly realised, i.e. I and a group of colleagues with whom I share the passion for this business, that now is the perfect time to implement a vision that I have been nurturing for the last five years or so. We strive to create a network of exclusive showrooms for Milan and Italy. This is how the concept for Best Showroom came about. The ultimate dream would be to establish a shared home in other cities such as Paris. We envisage a fashion house for selected showrooms of similar size and relevance, that share the same values of high quality standards and fair competition. What will future order rounds in Milan be like? Best Showroom is an association which agents and distributors can join after being reviewed by a committee. We already have 50 members and our objective is to support them in all areas. Now it is a matter of combining forces and creating a new business model. It definitely starts with digitisation. We will have one shared platform, a virtual showroom that is divided into many smaller showrooms. This is where our business will take place for the time being. The interested parties can view all collections and order with the approval of the individual showroom. Naturally, it is essential to protect our members. Furthermore, we do not only seek to support our members in sales, but also to offer a full-service package that includes joint communication, advertising, and internationalisation. As I said earlier, a fashion house as we know it from New York (Fashion Avenue), Los Angeles (LA Mart), or Miami (Fashion District), but only on a virtual level for now. At the beginning of July 2020, we launched the first round of orders in a fully virtual environment, and we hope to implement the concept in other countries soon. A pop-up version of Best Showroom during the order round in Paris is something I could imagine happening, for instance. style in progress
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NO LIMITS
Brandlab Fashion A showroom in the Louvre – or any other place for that matter, real or surreal. Whether abstract or designed exactly according specifications, the masterminds behind Brandlab Fashion, Jen Drury and Don O’Connell, offer a holistic digital showroom solution. The Key Feature. They transport your dream showroom into the virtual world, claiming to be the first fully integrated digital virtual reality showroom. The Budget. The budget is reasonable, the possibilities are endless. You can stroll through showrooms, attend lectures and conferences, have private chats, and place orders. The Distinguishing Feature. An underlying communication tool enables live audio and video recordings. One literally strolls through the showroom with up to five people and can discuss the merchandise in real time, choose products, view archived campaign and look book images, and order digitally.
Scalability. The platform can be accessed by up to 2,000 people at the same time, which is an interesting option for smaller trade shows. “Our development team worked around the clock to find a solution that would allow us to create virtual showrooms remotely, without having to photograph physical samples in our studio,” explains Jen Drury. “We are now capable of creating realistic 3D assets from existing static images or CAD drawings.” www.brandlabfashion.com
A showroom in the Louvre: Brandlab Fashion makes every location possible.
CUUUB
INSPIRED BY COMPUTER GAMES Frank Dürr and Norbert Ropelt of Acameo developed their idea of a 3D web store that can be entered via a mouse click and operated with interactive modules, and in which products can be taken off the shelf and viewed before they are purchased, on the basis of indoor mapping technology.
Hearing the sound of footsteps makes the experience so realistic: shopping in a 3D web shop.
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Frank, how do you explain indoor mapping to digital immigrants? A camera trolley with a 360 degree lens moves through rooms and scans them. We translate this data into digital space and map that reality as accurately as possible. This can be applied to very small and very large areas, even to entire city districts. Since our launch in 2019, we have focused on brick-and-mortar retailers and have opened the first 3D web stores. How do you enter a Cuuub store on a flat screen? You simply click on the threshold. Various sound effects – such as the sound of footsteps, the background music of the respective store, and the clanging of coat hangers when selecting a piece – make the experience real. How is the market reacting? People are banging down our doors. The concept can be applied to everything from a showroom to a trade show or mall, even an entire city! We take the brick-and-mortar shopping experience very seriously and transfer it to the digital sphere. So we do not use VR, as the application needs to be mass marketable. www.cuuub.com
C r e-AC T- i t v i t y
“NO CURRENT B2B PLATFORM CAN HANDLE AI” Agency intelligence is your cue. Peter Balzarek, GH Order/Deniba: The fact that I, as the face of GH Order by Deniba, claim that the virtual systems will not replace the personal order may seem somewhat surprising at first glance. However, this is not only my unwavering belief, but also evident: no matter how perfect the B2B system is, it lacks the magic and the proverbial agency intelligence (AI). Sales agents are professionals with a very special talent. They cannot be mimicked in a virtual environment? Who wants an imitation when you can have the original? Our industry is incredibly complex and it needs people who can respond to all the madness that our business entails. What is the thing we miss most when trade fairs are cancelled? Obviously, the new discoveries. No order platform can provide that yet. In order to launch something new in times like these, you need people who have earned your trust, who pull you aside and say: “I have something really exciting for you.” Peter Balzarek is the face and heart of GH Order by Deniba: “The crisis has unleashed a lot of creative energy in agencies, which is being translated into concrete improvements of our system.”
WHAT’S THE STORY
The fully integrated virtual showroom was only the beginning. NuOrder is in the process of developing additional features, as well as striking further partnerships with trade shows.
NUORDER
GOLIATH When NuOrder was launched in 2011, the concept was completely new to the industry. The current market leader has since developed into a well-established partner for virtual solutions, particularly in the US. With 2,000 brands and 500,000 retailers worldwide, NuOrder certainly boasts the most prominent customer base. Heath Wells, co-owner and Co-CEO of NuOrder, recently announced another high-profile partnership with Saks Fifth Avenue.
Heath, how would you describe NuOrder in one tweet? NuOrder sits between brands and retailers to help them conduct commerce digitally. We enable brands to digitise the showroom and sales process. They can create digital line sheets that allow buyers to order anytime, anywhere. You have a prominent customer base in America. How is the situation in Europe? Europe is a big focus for us. 40 percent of our gross merchandising volume is outside the US. What are the next steps for NuOrder? We recently launched a digital trade show to complement our platform. It allows brands and buyers to connect with each other. We are already partnering with key trade shows globally, and recently announced our partnership with leading trade fair organiser Informa. It is known for formats such as Coterie, Project, and MICAM Americas. We plan to announce additional partnerships in the coming weeks. www.nuorder.com
DIGITAL FASHION WEEK
Fashion Cloud hosts the Digital Fashion Week from the 28th to 30th of July. With an exciting range of services for brands and retailers, Fashion Cloud underlines its claim to market leadership. The company, with offices in Hamburg and Amsterdam, provides its tools to 400 brands. “We intend to fill a vacuum with the Digital Fashion Week,” says René Schellen, co-founder of Fashion Cloud. “Our conversations suggest that limits will be cut by 20 to 30 percent, making it all the more important for brands to fly their flags early. Given the lack of trade shows, we strive to develop the Digital Fashion Week into an information and presentation platform.” In addition to a supporting programme featuring master classes, brands can present themselves in 20-minute brand sessions. The first confirmed participants are Comma, Marc O’Polo, Summum Woman, and Digel. Cooperation partners of the Digital Fashion Week are Unitex, BTE, Katag AG, Euretco, EK/ Servicegroup, and the trade fair Modefabriek. The Digital Fashion Week is promoted via all channels available to Fashion Cloud, the brands, and all involved partners. Participation is free of charge for retailers. www.fashion.cloud
A digital kick-off for the fashion industry organised by Fashion Cloud: the Digital Fashion Week from the 28th to 30th of July.
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KEY OPPORTUNITIES
The crisis is the decision to learn from it. This is implied by the etymology of the Greek term “krísis”. Which opportunities should be seized now? style in progress talked to key players of the Italian fashion industry. Text: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Illustrations: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler
STRENGTHEN IDENTITY AND COMPETENCE
PRIORITISING ESSENTIALS
Giuseppe Colombo, CEO und Creative Director of Gallo 1927 “This crisis is an opportunity to reshape daily life, as well as to focus on basic values and essentials. Our values – such as passion for what we do, uncompromising quality, creativity, research, and innovation – have made Gallo the benchmark for high-end socks since 1927. These are the historical foundations on which we have built our company’s success. They are the main reason why our customers returned to our branches when they reopened after the lockdown. They are, however, not the only reason. We have learned to value time more consciously, and to work on developing aesthetically exciting products that are increasingly ethical, environmentally conscious, and fair.”
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Gennaro Dargenio, founder of Circolo 1901 “We quickly and emphatically came to the conclusion that we wanted to work on a spring/summer 2021 collection that would embody the Circolo 1901 DNA to 100 percent. More than ever, we wish to express our identity, distinctiveness, and personality. As a brand, we have always had one clear goal: to combine style and elegance with functionality and comfort. Now our time has come. A time in which the superfluous must surrender the field to the essential. Furthermore, we are waiting for the full reopening of stores in order to emerge strengthened from this extraordinary situation together with our customers. Finally, I firmly believe that we can only face the future with competence and courage.”
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WHAT’S THE STORY
PLACE OF HUMANITY
Beppe Angiolini, owner of Sugar and Honorary President of Camera Buyer Italia “The lockdown in Italy was a very difficult time, and even now things are not easy and rosy, especially for the retail sector. Without intending to sound rhetorical, I must confess, however, that I already see change. I see more humanity, more mindfulness – and that is what we need. When we reopened Sugar in Arezzo on the 18th of May, we were met with an incredible turnout. It was a truly wonderful day. Everyone was happy to see each other again and to be able to communicate – it was a great moment of solidarity. The time has come for stores to revert back to being meeting places where people exchange ideas and listen to each other. They should become places of deceleration, where you can enjoy fashion in a more relaxed manner.”
THE SMALL THINGS IN LIFE
Eleonora Marini, Communication Specialist of Rifò S.r.l. “The situation we have experienced has called everything into question. We have realised what is necessary and what is superfluous. We have realised that small things, like a walk in the woods or a homemade cake, can bring us great joy. In this moment, which we refer to as a new beginning, we have the opportunity to introduce this awareness into our daily lives. We are at a crucial turning point: either we continue to heed all that we have learned during this time, or we tick off this “learning period” as a mere subordinate movement of history. The choice is ours.”
REMAIN TRUE TO YOURSELF
Alessandro Squarzi, showroom owner and Creative Director of Fortela “All these changes are proof that consistency always pays off in the end. As far as I am concerned, I have always been consistent and my Fortela brand is proof of this. I have always sought to create garments that do not follow fleeting trends, but are iconic, timeless favourite pieces with a background story. I firmly believe that I have made the right choice. I believe that the changes that have always taken place throughout history provide new points of reference, but I also believe that the past will always endure. History cannot simply be erased.”
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Ismail Boulaghmal is the owner of Clubkind Marketing and has cooperated with many streetwear brands. He was, for instance, an integral part of Fila’s comeback. Hip hop, streetwear, and sportswear are matters close to his heart.
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WHAT’S THE STORY
CLUBKIND MARKETING
“LEADERS CANNOT BE FOLLOWERS” What can fashion brands learn from Fortnite? How does one stand out in a brand environment for which collaborations are the panacea for more content? Ismail Boulaghmal, founder of Clubkind Marketing, helped establish the Snipes brand and now consults companies such as Urban Classics, Saturn Group, and Bestseller Group. In this style in progress interview he provides exciting answers. Interview: Nicoletta Schaper. Photo: Clubkind Marketing
O
ne of your demands is that fashion brands should adopt the way Fortnite game handles its skins. What exactly do you mean? Fortnite has become a successful brand in its own right. Its skins, which can be compared to the trend styles of fashion brands, are often only available for a limited amount of time and create a real hype within the community. The short-term availability, as well as the fact that they are incredibly sought-after, means that they are practically produced on-demand and without surplus. This redefines the principles of supply and demand: now a single offer triggers a demand, with the possibility to launch many more offers without any risk. Ingenious! The fashion industry is already able to do that too – at least in the textile sector. The industry in general is, however, still struggling with the “on-demand” aspect. Yet it is already quite easy to implement. For example, I recently planned a release for a pop artist with a massive fan base. He promoted a capsule of two t-shirts and sweaters with a special print for ten days. The fans could then order online within a period of just 48 hours, with the success that 14,000 items were ordered, manufactured, and delivered by a German textile manufacturer within ten days. Everyone benefitted! Of course, the margin would have been higher had the products been produced in China. However, it makes sense to pay more for something that is more exclusive and increases brand value. By following this principle, we could prevent what has been hounding the fashion world for the last decade: overproduction and permanent sales. The result is devaluation. Every sale contaminates the environment and the brand that signs off on it. The kids are not interested in sales. Sales are embarrassing! The core impulse of fashion is to buy value. The hype around Balenciaga, Gucci, YSL, Fendi,
Prada, Offwhite, and Supreme proved just that. A sneaker by Gucci always maintains its price. It is almost impossible to find them discounted. That is what youth culture is all about: showing that you are wearing something of value. Whoever wears the Gucci sneakers, shows others that he or she is wearing something of substance. Wearing sneakers from a sale, however, shows that one is wearing something with no sustainable value. The life span of products is increasingly shorter, because companies strive to preserve liquidity and storage capacities. This used to work quite well with two sale phases a year, but unfortunately the sale carousel started turning ever faster. All the more consumers are now turning their attention to price stability, something that is currently only maintained by luxury brands. Yet sportswear brands should benefit enormously from the prevailing sportswear trend, even more so due to “stay at home” during lockdown. That is true, but many sports and streetwear brands in the mid-range segment are suffering from brand erosion, because it was impossible to distinguish what they stand for. No brand marketing, no selective distribution, no clear direction, no cultural return – all this results in a decline in sharpness of profile. Not just one, but three or four models are teased simultaneously every season, so that the releases overlap. Many sportswear brands entered collaborations without any tangible added-value or content, thus once again relinquishing leadership to luxury brands. I firmly believe that the era of collaborations is over anyway. When Virgil Abloh collaborates with Ikea, it proves that he does not perceive cooperating with fashion brands as interesting. Brands like Louis Vuitton cultivate their value and build on their icons – as do Supreme, Apple, and Cartier, for example. Value stems from brands that claim leadership and dictate what happens instead of taking orders. Yet today’s power lies firmly with the consumer. Leaders cannot be followers. Brands that are too consumer-driven are always in a downward spiral. Did Andy Warhol ask anybody for advice before he painted the Campbell can? Or did Amy Winehouse ask somebody for advice before her music was released? Tinker Hatfield was initially ridiculed for trying to incorporate air into a sole! Creativity is art, and those who are part of a certain culture understand its art and create products that the community of that particular culture likes to buy. Without sale!
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WHAT'S THE STORY
C r e-AC T- i t v i t y
THAT’S HISTORY
Now is exactly the time to reconsider trends and idiosyncrasies of the industry, and realign focus. Which aspects will (hopefully) soon be mere things of the past? Here is what retailers and industry professionals think. Text: Stefanie Buchacher. Illustrations: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler
TOO MUCH MERCHANDISE, TOO EARLY DELIVERIES
Anneliese Reiter, owner Frauenzimmer “During the lockdown, an awareness of regionality and quality of products has emerged. Many of our customers are now contemplating whether they can obtain their object of desire locally before filling a shopping cart at an online giant. What will hopefully remain things of the past: too much merchandise, too early deliveries, and maybe we can work together to put an end to these discount battles. This would, of course, happen if there were less merchandise on the market.”
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TURNING POINT OF HYPERGLOBALISATION
Dominic Fellinger, owner Fellinger Moden “I hope that this time will be a turning point in hyperglobalisation. Many things need to change. Many levers cannot (only) be adjusted by retailers, but even more so by the industry itself! We should definitely leave delivery rhythms that are not in line with seasons behind. In terms of this aspect, we changed our limit even before the season started. I refuse to buy product groups or brands that are largely sold at reduced prices, such as thick winter jackets. What really should be a thing of the past is e-commerce with free shipping and returns. It should not be this easy for customers to order an infinite number of goods and be able to send them back for free! Another thing we should abandon is disrespect of value. Value should regain more value, so to speak!”
WHAT’S THE STORY
C r e-AC T- i t v i t y
CRAZY RHYTHMS, HUGE PURCHASE VOLUMES
Jule Ehrenreich, co-owner Lautenschlager “We are looking forward to when carefree shopping returns to our store and we can once again welcome our customers with a hug, a glass of sparkling wine, or a cup of coffee. Irrespective of that, now would be the time to change things. What we should abandon are, for example, premature order/delivery dates or bloated purchase volumes. It would be good if everything were more in line with the respective seasons – no shorts in January or coats in August. Some companies should reduce their purchase volumes a little. Especially when lots of 8 or 12 are stipulated, that leaves us with a lot of merchandise for the sales floor.”
GOODBYE PREMATURE DISCOUNT CAMPAIGNS
Kirsten Esser & Anke Kemp, owners Dein Lieblingsladen “The coronavirus has triggered a change of perspective. The aim should be to adjust delivery times to meet the increasing demand for ‘ready-to-wear’ fashion, thus rendering premature discount campaigns superfluous. Instead of globalisation, European business relations should be intensified and international shipping channels should be reconsidered. The consequences of limited supply chains and product availability were felt by both retailers and customers. We would welcome an end to competition among retailers and, independently of this, a strengthening of cohesion (#supportyourlocals). Ultimately, customers enjoy a cityscape with small, individual shops. Instead of buying from online giants, they prefer to buy from committed retailers.”
LESS COMPETITION, MORE COOPERATION
Meta Pesch, owner Agentur Pesch Salzburg “What I hope will be consigned to the past? Competitive mindsets. I sincerely hope that the coronavirus has taught us that we can only be strong together, or even stronger together. I thought it was so wonderful to see how everyone in my WhatsApp group was helping each other, exchanging tips and information, and motivating each other – even those who stand in direct competition for the same target groups! I myself love this community spirit and try to practice it whenever possible. For me, this was one of the positive side aspects of the corona pandemic: the cooperation and exchange, the deep understanding and compassion for each other.”
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o G od o Reas ns, Good e Busin ss
FASHION
Fashion has lost its ease – to gain substance. Those who enjoyed strong business after reopening did so for good reasons. They cultivated and maintained relationships, they recognised and satisfied desires, or they detected and communicated arguments. Fashion now has the unique opportunity to create a new narrative. Instead of a clumsy “this is new”, it is now about all the other reasons that encourage or justify buying. Editor: Isabel Faiss. Text: Isabel Faiss, Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Brands
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FASHION
Future Technology
The devil is not only in the details, but also in the fibres. Without further ado, the experimental laboratory is simply relocated into nature. The avant-gardists and pioneers in this field are experimenting with admixtures of graphite, algae, and phosphorescent particles of marine animals. Ecoalf, for example, presents a new fibre that harnesses photocatalysis to filter nitrogen, sulphur dioxides, and particulate matter from the air while also destroying bacteria. In this case, the journey is the reward and the vision is clear: to make fashion better for people and the environment.
Senscommon
EgonLab
Vollebak
C.P. Company
Vollebak
CLEAN AIR “As part of our commitment to the people and the planet, we are introducing a new ecological technology that cleans the air while wearing Ecoalf. It even helps kill bacteria at the same time. It has the potential to be a powerful weapon in the fight against air pollution and transmission of infectious diseases. Pureti, our cooperation partner in this case, is part of the Horizon 2020 project, which is the most important research and innovation programme in the EU. Its aim is to combat urban pollution over the next 60 years. The fabrics we use reduce air pollution by 40% and destroy 99.99% of bacteria. The coating of the jacket or sneakers converts pollution into water vapor and salt through photocatalysis. This allows us to compensate for the pollution caused by 10,000 kilometres in a car with approximately 1.5 jackets or 12 pairs of sneakers.� Javier Goyeneche, founder and president of Ecoalf
Ecoalf
Senscommon
P.E.Nation
Ecoalf
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FASHION
Logo-ism
Status and luxury are in trouble. If there is no audience, there is less need to show off. At least one would think so. Not least because of a new, prominent advertising space right in the customer’s face, however, the logo love continues. There are, of course, much simpler reasons as to why the striking is flourishing. Online shops are registering more mobile device customers than ever, and the screen of a smartphone is not made for subtle stimuli. Product marketing and self-presentation also primarily happen on the small screen, meaning that clear messages are the best way to achieve targets.
CyK by Constantly K
Mads Norgaard
Les Deux
Re/Done
WAY OF LIFE “For us, the logo is more than just a way of showing off the brand. We strive to communicate a lifestyle, a sense of belonging. This is our home. It is who we are and what we have built with people who joined the journey throughout the years.” Andreas von der Heide, co-founder of Les Deux
The Colorful Crew/Greenstyle Munich
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Marc O’Polo
Ecoalf
FASHION
Kirin
Constantly K
Save the Duck
Balr
Green Berlin
Stetson
Adidas x GAA
Lightning Bolt
Lightning Bolt
National Geographic
Templa
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FASHION
Less and Better
Spending money on fashion? Gladly, as long as social and ecological standards are maintained to a high degree. The crisis has given people a clearer understanding that everything is interrelated and that conscious fashion consumption does make a difference. Less, but better – one does not wish to refill emptied cupboards without purpose, reason, and morality. This brings new attention to truly valuable pieces: a special item trumps a whole bag of normal.
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Wool & Co
Marc O’Polo
360 Cashmere
Lemon Jelly/Greenstyle Munich
American Vintage
Circolo 1901
Sassenbach
Tom Ripley
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Selected Femme
North Sails
Closed
Michael Coal
Blauer USA
Mey
Goldgarn
INNOVATION IS MANDATORY “Standstill is the wrong signal. We strive to offer something new and believe in the future. In terms of the collection this means significantly more colour for fine knitwear, innovative superfine jacquard polo shirts, and knitted overshirts in cool, functional fabrics. Innovation does not rule out longevity, on the contrary. The customer is seeking high-quality products that may cost a little more, but remain favourite items for more than a few seasons. The new collection will once again feature clean basics that are enshrined in the Phil Petter DNA.� Anja Grabherr-Petter, Managing Director of Phil Petter
Dualist
Dornschild
Lightning Bolt
DU4
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FASHION
Hedonism
Fashion still holds some magic. In a society driven ever more strongly by reason, it allows us to forget everything for a while and devote ourselves fully to emotion. It rewards, makes happy, and delights. The most important adjustment screws for this beautiful intoxication must be turned on the manufacturer’s side. The value-for-money antennas have never been more finely tuned. “See now, buy now” only works as long as the price label does not hold any unpleasant surprises. Let’s face a reality: brands whose prices only seem reasonable during a sale or in an outlet have a serious problem. A problem that even regulating sale phases cannot solve.
Lemon Jelly/Greenstyle Munich
Hero7
Baum und Pferdgarten
Belle Ikat
Munthe
Hayley Menzies
Kleed
Day Birger et Mikkelsen
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FASHION
BEAUTIFUL MERCHANDISE “The consensus seems to be that women buy emotionally. I, however, believe that this now applies to men too. Perhaps the emotional impulse is not merely to look, but certainly to touch. Beautiful, valuable goods are a haptic seduction that men are happy to succumb to, especially when the price tag does not conceal any nasty surprises and the gut feeling is reinforced by the head.” Wolfgang Müller, owner of Tom Ripley
Copenhagen Studios
Ivko
La Martina
Izmee
Marc O’Polo
Silk Sisters
Les Copains
Lollys Laundries
Pin 1876 by Botto Giuseppe
La Milanesa
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FASHION
New Work
When the right to a home office is enshrined in law in Germany this autumn, it will affect the very last bastion of readyto-wear specialists. After all, dress codes erode permanently in smart working mode. Style experts are still arguing about what actually erodes while wearing sweatpants. Fact is that the new working reality is the catalyst for a long-lasting shift towards more comfort and cool casualness. This also applies in full to the ladies, who, however, know how to cope in other ways. The importance of ornamental items for everything above the table edge is increasing enormously, while footwear is losing ground. A different kind of exciting…
Sassenbach
Patrizia Pepe
RRD
Gestuz
Gant
Lovjoi
CULTIVATED CASUALNESS “Creativity is currently shaped by reduction and concentration on the essential. The trend towards more casualness and wider silhouettes is continuing, but now, after the crisis, I firmly believe in aesthetics and sexiness. Maybe not this season, but definitely in the next… The longing for experiences is great and this will be reflected in consumption. Humans are not created to limit themselves to bare essentials. They also want what they do not really need.” Marco Götz, founder of Drykorn
Sophie Schnoor
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FASHION
Marni
Mads Norgaard
Aymuse
Pommandère
Circolo 1901
Aybi
Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini
Nümph
Sun 68
Manuel Ritz
Charles & Keith
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FASHION
Architecture and Sculpture
Sculptural forms clash with architectural minimalism. The avant-garde takes a constructive approach, almost as if the body were a building. Clear, straight shapes and exaggerated volumes quote from Bauhaus textbooks and botany. Fashion loses its superficial costume style, and serves a purpose once more. The supposed minimalism contains great richness: in research, in understanding, in innovation. Because the master builders of new fashion know their materials, they can once again make great strides.
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Shipsheip
Judy Zhang
Mads Norgaard
Alberta Ferretti
EgonLab
Second Female
Minimum
House of Dagmar
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FASHION
Simonetta Ravizza
Canali
Richert Beil Utopia
Envin Levé
Drome
Rianna+KENDIMA
Cecilie Bahnsen
Marni
BREAKING BOUNDARIES “I reject the notion that to understand something means it needs to be familiar, generic, or formulaic. Rather than to repeat and regurgitate what already exists, I strive to create new relationships that break down these pre-existing boundaries and challenge the idea of what something is, and the function it serves. There is comfort in what is familiar and labelled. I want to disrupt the comfort, redefine a category, and create newness that challenges fashion’s function and purpose.” Rob Maniscalco, Creative Director of Templa
Judy Zhang
J. Lindeberg
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FASHION
Digital Fashion
Nothing remains as it was. Even the design process itself is increasingly departing from the clichÊd image of the musekissed creative who fills an entire sketch pad with one single burst of inspiration. Those who work with 3D software and AI-supported forecasts speak a different language. How much digitisation will change fashion is not yet foreseeable. It is foreseeable, however, that even the current preoccupation with the possibilities is linking new synapses in designers’ brains. Incidentally, the same applies to intelligent merchandise management: shifts from S/S 2020 to 2021 quickly became reality wherever intelligent management tools have long been commonplace.
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Mey
Maqu
Alberto
Peuterey
Gant
Bogner
Sealup
Sportalm
TRANSPARENCY “What was once a very time-intensive process that entailed many physical mood boards, has been simplified significantly by digitisation. Leveraging our PLM product content allows us to present and share the collection across teams and suppliers, which results in more transparency and faster decision-making processes. It also reduces the prototype processes and ensures a more sustainable footprint.” Karen Vogele, Executive Vice President Product & Design at Gant
FASHION
Manuel Ritz
North Sails
Sun 68
Drykorn
Parajumpers
Floris van Bommel
Blauer USA
Phil Petter
BomBoogie
Marc O’Polo
People of Shibuya
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IN STORE
STOREFRONT THE MORE, THE BETTER
TICKER
Difficult questions require complex answers? Not necessarily, especially in the retail trade, where the most obvious solution is to act. At present, the biggest mistake one can make is inaction. During the shutdown, the retail industry had the historic opportunity to explore all possible means of customer retention, communication, interaction, and digitisation. There were and are no limits to improvisation. Text: Isabel Faiss, Stephanie Buchacher. Photos: Stores
Mela Bauer (right) and her team launched their own online store for all customers and agency brands virtually overnight.
Melagence Local
#SUPPORTEACHOTHER Mela Bauer launched a digital service campaign for customers of Agentur Melagence in March. This gave rise to the idea of Melagence Local, a proprietary online shop exclusively for the agency’s customers and portfolio brands. “Overnight, every store had access to a high-quality online shop with corresponding traffic, our brands had an active shop window, and we, as hosts, had a certain amount of influence,” Mela Bauer explains. local.melagence.com
Frank Hirt brought his community with him everywhere. He invited them to marvel at the newly arrived summer merchandise via video chat and provided tips for outdoor activities. Kerstin Feiertag fights with commitment and personal effort.
Sestra Store, Graz
ROLL UP YOUR SLEEVES X-Sport Kastellaun, Hunsrück
FAR BEYOND THE STORE
Owner Frank Hirt of X-Sport Kastellaun interpreted the locked store as a challenge rather than a hindrance. Via Instagram and Facebook, he involved his customers in a vivid and very personal way in his everyday life as a retailer: product and family videos, exciting outdoor activities, creative competitions, expert telephone advice, CO2-neutral delivery service by bike, and plenty of professional entertainment for the community. www.x-sport.de
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This was the motto of Kerstin Feiertag, who launched a website with online shop a mere 18 days into the lockdown. In addition, Sestra increased its Instagram activity, including collaborations with local bloggers that resulted in strong sales. What proves useful in times of crisis: regular customers and a selective product range. “Our customers have always bought locally quite deliberately and have now reinforced this attitude. We sell a lifestyle and offer plenty of individuality.” www.sestra-store.com
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Bube & König, Nuremberg
DON’T LET THE GOOD ONES GO! This was the appeal of the Bube & König team on the crowdfunding platform Startnext in March, where they raised approximately 4,500 Euros within a very short time. For example: “For a donation of 200 Euros you receive a voucher worth 100 Euros and a kiss!” The voucher sales were accompanied by advertising measures on social media channels such as Instagram and a delivery service. This allowed the store owners to navigate the crisis successfully. www.bubeundkoenig.de
Steven Kautler, Raimar Bratt, and Sandro Nuzzo of Bube & König in Nuremberg have brought their customers on board.
Three Monkeys 030, Prien am Chiemsee
HUMOUR IS KEY
Esther Süß-Wörz not only surprises her customers with quirky actions, she sometimes even lures them out of their shell. For example, she spontaneously offers a 10 percent discount to anyone willing to sing a love song on Valentine’s Day or to perform a skateboard trick outside the store. This stands out in the tranquil town of Prien am Chiemsee and also on Instagram, where the Three Monkeys faced the lockdown with wit and honesty. The result: extreme demand, 24/7 customer advice via direct message, and up to 12h screen time for the owners. www.threemonkeys030.shop
“We want to make our customers laugh,” says Esther Süß-Wörz – in the store, via social media, and via the online shop launched during the lockdown.
Kerstin Görling of Hayashi in Frankfurt laid the foundation for her success during the enforced break on Instagram.
Hayashi, Frankfurt
HIGH VOLTAGE: A LIVE WIRE TO THE CUSTOMER Kerstin Görling believes that she and her team worked hard throughout the lockdown period – and it has certainly paid off. To secure an online presence, they moved into the web shop of Daniel Steindorf’s Uebervart store in Frankfurt at very short notice, quasi as a subtenant. They also hosted live shopping events on their own Instagram account. Within an hour, the Hayashi team generated the turnover of a “normal” Saturday. “Our extensive groundwork on Instagram over the last few years has been essential in this respect. Of our 27,000 followers, an average of 200 attended the live shopping events, which resulted in a kind of buying competition.” This direct and very personal proximity to her customers is the positive experience that Kerstin Görling would like to retain for herself and her team: “One should never neglect this direct line to one’s customers.” www.hayashi-shop.com
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INSTORE WITH PERSONA LITY
Anything but anonymous, everything but stereotypical, and with as much personality as possible – anyone who embarks on a retail expedition in the 20s of the new millennium is required to fully commit to this mantra. The fact that human contact remains paramount, even if it is not exactly opportune at this moment, does not phase this generation of retailers. Their ties to the customer are close – even from a distance, if necessary. Text: Stefanie Buchacher, Martina Müllner-Seybold, Kay Alexander Plonka, Veronika Zangl
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IN STORE
The young streetwear store Franz Kitz stretches over approximately 300 square metres.
Franz Kitz / KITZBÜHEL
TYROLEAN FREE THINKER
Photos: Franz Kitz
T
he ambience is reminiscent of a hip urban loft: bare wall sections, exposed cables on the ceiling, and even the odd tile left behind by the previous tenant. In fact, Franz Kitz has been a breath of fresh air in the illustrious Tyrolean ski resort of Kitzbühel since 2017. “We strive to be affordable for the young and young-at-heart,” explains Lucas Etz, one of the managing directors of the lifestyle store in “Bichlstrasse”, which is close to the town centre. A bar is adjoined to the sales area at the rear of the store. Thus, anyone so inclined can enjoy coffee specialities, craft beer, wine, or other beverages while shopping. “The interior embraces the sustainability theme. Instead of state-of-the-art furniture, we use old wooden chairs that have been reupholstered. Wooden product carriers ensure that the store can be separated from the catering area if required. Since the bar is also open in the evening, this is absolutely essential.” The retail space is located in the front area of the store. “We stock a wide selection of streetwear. This includes, for example, a wall with New Balance, Arkk, Puma, and other sneakers. Other major suppliers include Iriedaily, Champion, Carhartt, Nike, and Happy Socks.” The lifestyle concept is always open to new ideas, of which the popup area in the store is testament. The central location, meaning that the store is easy to reach on foot, is a real bonus. “Finding parking spaces in Kitzbühel is always a bit of a problem,” says Etz.
Lucas Etz, Manuel Gianmoena and Alexander Etz are Franz Kitz. Their lifestyle concept breathes new life into the noble winter sports resort.
Franz Kitz Bichlstrasse 22, Kitzbühel/Austria www.franz-kitz.com Opening: July 2017 Owners: Lucas Etz, Alexander Etz, Manuel Gianmoena Sales area: 200 sqm retail, 140 sqm gastro Brands: Arkk Copenhagen, Carhartt, Champion, Happy Socks, Iriedaily, Kapten & Son, New Balance, Nike, Under Armour
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IN STORE
A restrained store design in black and white creates the perfect stage for high fashion.
The Corner by Phänomen / LUCERNE
ONE STEP BEYOND
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Is a crisis the best time to launch a new store? “If we do our job well and offer individual service, we have a future,” insists the Rogger family.
The Corner by Phänomen Weinmarkt 7, Lucerne/Switzerland www.phaenomen.ch www.fashion-lifestyle.ch Owners: Sonja and Fritz Rogger-Furrer Managing directors: Laura Rogger, Marina Bayat-Rogger Opening: July 2020 Employees: 7 Sales area: 400 sqm Brands for women: Balenciaga, Etro, Givenchy, Moncler, Saint Laurent, Stella McCartney, Valentino Brands for men: Balenciaga, Dolce & Gabbana, Ermenegildo Zegna, Givenchy, Moncler, Saint Laurent, Stone Island, Valentino
Photos: The Corner by Phänomen
arina Bayat-Rogger and Laura Rogger’s new store is their first foray into the luxury segment. “Lucerne has always lacked a luxury fashion location,” says Bayat-Rogger. “We strive to change that.” The Corner is located in a corner building on the historic “Weinmarkt”, which is also home to the two existing Phänomen stores. High fashion by Givenchy, Stella McCartney, Saint Laurent, and Balenciaga is staged across four floors in spacious, light-flooded areas. “The ground floor not only offers accessories, but also a bar as a meeting place,” Bayat-Rogger explains. The upper floors, two dedicated to womenswear and one to menswear, have a more intimate feel. The prospects are promising. As a significant trading centre for watches, Lucerne attracts an affluent clientele from Asia and the Middle East. Then there is the loyal clientele of Phänomen. The family has always relied on personal interaction and advice. This is not a mere business strategy, but a philosophy that dates back to 1988. What Sonja and Fritz Rogger-Furrer started with pioneering spirit and passion, is now continuously evolving under the leadership of their daughters. They can still, however, rely on their parents’ support. While Sonja Rogger-Furrer assists in terms of purchasing, sales, and administration, Fritz Rogger-Furrer devised the conversion of The Corner and its visual merchandising. Now he knows Phänomen is in capable hands, he is preparing his own retirement. Phänomen remains steadfast in its decision to forego any form of online business. It operates “live” in Lucerne.
IN STORE
Three Monkeys 030/PRIEN AM CHIEMSEE
WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE
W
ho does not know the three monkeys that cover their eyes, ears, and mouth respectively. In Japanese mythology, this imagery has a deeper meaning. Those who see, hear, and speak no evil can change their lives for the better. This allegory immediately appealed to Esther and Frank Wörz, as well as their daughter Amelie. All three are, after all, radically positive individuals. The result is an extraordinary space of joy, warmth, and free spirit, where people of all walks of life can meet and hang out together. On top of that, the unconventional product range creates genuine encounters and conversations. Three Monkeys 030 reveals a world of its own, spread out across approximately 110 square metres. This world is worth exploring for its clothes, accessories, design utensils, crockery, postcards, and jewellery, as well as its specially designed shirts, sweaters, and accessories bearing the slogan “Life is better at the lake”. The latter are the result of a collaboration with a Danish label and printed using an antique stamp printing method. The store has also established a separate corner for Freitag bags. “I love making people laugh, to shock and inspire them,” says dynamic store owner Esther. “More often than not, it turns out that opposites have plenty in common.”
Three Monkeys 030 Seestrasse 8, Prien am Chiemsee/Germany @threemonkeys030 Owners: Esther Süss-Wörz, Frank Wörz Opening: February 2018 Sales area: 110 sqm Fashion and accessories brands: Derbe, Freitag, Ripndip, Roxy, Stance, Quiksilver Lifestyle brands: Broste Copenhagen, Kay Bojesen, Normann Copenhagen
Photos: Three Monkeys 030
Given the deep connection Esther and Frank Wörz, and their daughter Amelie, feel with the three wise monkeys from Japanese mythology, it is no surprise that the three quirky figures are the patron saints of this unconventional concept store on the shores of Chiemsee.
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Elisabeth Vienna / VIENNA
STYLE UNIVERSE
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Sabine Groiss launched Elisabeth Vienna in 2016. She perceives the store as the living proof that the stationary retail trade is not dead.
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Elisabeth Vienna Wollzeile 34, Vienna/Austria www.elisabethvienna.at Managing Director: Sabine Groiss Opening: 2016 Sales area: 60 sqm Brands: among others Cambio, Cellar Door, Selected Femme, Someday, Xacus
Photos: Elisabeth Vienna
veryone in Vienna knows the “Wollzeile”. It was, however, pure coincidence that Sabine Groiss chose this particular street as the location for her store. “I had merely experienced Vienna as a tourist at the time,” says the native German who moved to Austria for love. “I didn’t analyse customer frequency. I became aware of ‘Wollzeile’ because it’s a charming street that still harbours individual, owner-managed stores. It’s like a district within a district. One knows and greets one another.” The name is a reference to Austria and its famous Empress Elisabeth. “She represents a self-confident, vivacious woman with both feet firmly on the ground,” Groiss explains. It was important to her to make a statement by launching Elisabeth Vienna. “One often hears that the stationary retail trade is dead, but is that really true? I can’t imagine that it is, as long as you have a clear message and concept.” Groiss took up the challenge in 2016 and Elisabeth Vienna is still thriving. “My product range represents a certain style universe. I think ‘fashion without chichi’ describes it best. Quality, fit, and value for money are extremely important to me. That’s why my customers can find a shirt for 20 Euros, as well as a cashmere sweater, in my store.” Groiss believes that trends are relevant, but she doesn’t act on all of them. She also pays great attention to the intrinsic value of every individual piece and the presentation thereof. Everything is carefully laid out on 60 square metres. “The store is clear and concise, as the pieces should make an impression. For me, interior design is a constant process that draws from the zeitgeist.” By renewing decorations regularly, she offers her customers both the reliability of the familiar and the excitement of new imagery.
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The interior of the store, located in Hannover’s “Luisenstrasse”, was designed by Inna Dobiasch.
Mick’s / HANNOVER
A COMPLETELY SELFSUFFICIENT PATH
Photos: Mick‘s
“I
believe there are corporate people and entrepreneurial people – I am one of the latter,” says Mick Möller. The Nagold graduate was acutely aware that, given the reputation his parents’ store enjoyed, it would be difficult to shake off the “son of ” label. He decided to spend a year at Lodenfrey in Munich, where he learned much. The 24-year-old soon felt a desire to return home. He forged his own concept to appeal to a new generation of customers. “Our customers are from my generation up into the late 50s. They travel frequently, and they are fascinated by quality.” This perfectly matches the owner’s own personality. He scouts extensively. “My brands are newcomers, underdogs.” Big brands? No way! At Mick’s, exchange happens at eye level. One talks shop, discovers new details, and unearths secrets with Möller and his two salespeople. “We have the whole world on the screens of our smart phones and can buy anytime, anywhere. Humans are, however, social beings. When we retailers manage to fulfil their desires, we remain the first port of call. We need a strong profile that conveys a message,” Möller argues. It’s exciting to see which conclusions he draws for his own purchasing strategy. “I’m not a brand collector. We collaborate with suppliers who are real experts. That requires depth. Product ranges that merely touch upon everything, mainly to satisfy everything and everyone, are interchangeable. Such stores will disappear.”
The young only wear streetwear? Mick Möller proves the opposite by offering exquisite brands, icons of ready-to-wear clothing, and modern sartorial highlights.
Mick’s Luisenstrasse 8-9, Hannover/Germany www.micks-hannover.de Opening: 2019 Owner: Mick Möller Sales area: 160 sqm Brands: among others Camoshita, Hackett, Incotex, John Smedley, Kired, Ma.Strum, Nine in the Morning, Paul Smith, Roberto Collina, Sartorio Accessories brands: Church’s, Doucal’s, Fausto Colato, Shibumi
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IN STORE
As blue as the lake: “Mein lieber Schwan” in Münsing on Lake Starnberg impresses with an affectionately curated portfolio of small, often unknown manufacturers and manufactories.
Mein lieber Schwan / MÜNSING
H
idden away in Münsing, a town on the eastern shore of Lake Starnberg that is better known for its recreational attractions, one can find a lovingly designed and curated concept store named “Mein lieber Schwan”. Owner Susanne Platzer offers a selection of exclusive, hand-picked products ranging from fashion and accessories to interior items and housewares. It even stocks stationery and prints. She enjoys sniffing out “fashion truffles” at small, often unknown manufacturers and finds inspiration during journeys, at trade shows, and on platforms like Instagram. “After spending years as a designer of brand spaces and brand experiences, I wanted to create a life-friendly workspace and a product world that offers added value. My own shopping habits proved that the oversupply of mass goods, both stationary and online, reduced my desire to consume,” says Platzer. Thus she was all the more inspired by small, regional stores offering sensibly curated product ranges, as well as items produced in manufactories. The location is no coincidence, by the way. “The past twelve years here in Münsing have taught me that a proximity to water and mountains attracts many inspired, life-conscious people. They flee from the city and its oversupply. What unites them is a longing for the countryside and nature. The curation principle suits this area perfectly.”
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Mein lieber Schwan Hauptstrasse 6 Münsing/Germany @mein.lieber.schwan Owner: Susanne Platzer Opening: November 2017 Sales area: 60 sqm Brands: Alyki Cashmere, American Vintage, Ann Kurz, Armedangels, Arnhem, Atelier Humanoid, Blundstone, Hey Soho, Langerchen, Maison Labiche, Moismont, Ledermanufaktur München, Niu Italy, Samsoe & Samsoe, Saskia Dietz Jewellery
Photos: Mein lieber Schwan
DESIGN MEETS LOCAL COLOUR
IN STORE
Kari Kari / ZURICH
BUY LESS – CHOOSE WELL
N
ina Gschwilm developed the idea for her fair fashion concept store while conducting research for her own cosmetics label Kosmic. “It is important to me to show that it’s possible to buy fashionably in a conscious and fair manner,” Gschwilm explains. What’s so special about her concept is that all labels are selected on the basis of several sustainability-related criteria. These are displayed transparently in the store and on the products, thus ensuring that customers can decide which criteria and characteristics are relevant to their purchase decision. For this purpose, Gschwilm developed her own index. It incorporates certificates, but doesn’t necessarily require them. “Unfortunately, some smaller labels offer products that are manufactured fairly and from natural materials, but don’t yet have the financial means to afford certificates. It’s important to us to know the people and principles behind the products and to communicate their ideas transparently.” The credo is: “Buy less – choose well.” This motto applies to the product range, which includes fair fashion, accessories, jewellery, and even a number of beauty products, as well as to the presentation of goods. The store is clean and homely, which is underpinned by green elements such as floating and standing plant decorations. The fine assortment can also be purchased via the company’s own online shop, which currently accounts for 20 percent of sales.
Nina Gschwilm took over Zurich-based store Kari Kari in March 2017. She has focused on curated slow fashion ever since.
Kari Kari Kalkbreitestrasse 43, Zurich/Switzerland www.karikari.ch, @karikarizh Owner: Nina Gschwilm Opening: March 2017 Sales area: 80 sqm Employees: 2 Brands: Armedangels, Beaumont Organic, By Signe, Cossac, CUS, Diarte, Jungle Folk, Kings of Indigo, Knowledge Cotton Apparel, Kosmic, Kowtow, Mara Hoffman, Nette Rose, Nuori, O My Bag, Palorosa, Pura Clothing, Sunad, Swedish Stockings, Thunders Love, Underprotection, Woodlot, Woron, Zamt
Photos: Kari Kari
Eleven sustainability criteria underpin the order process, meaning that customers can make a conscious purchase decision.
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Cosy, stylish and modern: Das Kaminzimmer appeals to a wide audience and has established itself as a meeting place for locals and guests alike just a few weeks after opening.
Das Kaminzimmer / MAUTERNDORF
VILLAGE IDYLL MEETS ZEITGEIST
S
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Karin Rainer has plenty of ideas for her concept store: from summer barbecues in the garden to pop-up stores.
Das Kaminzimmer Markt 238, Mauterndorf/Austria Instagram: das_kaminzimmer Opening: 1st of January 2020 Owner: Karin Rainer Sales area: 90 sqm Fashion brands: among others Absolut Cashmere, Cat Noir, La Fille des Fleurs, Risskio, Zaubermond Furniture, fabric, and accessories brands: among others Fischbacher, Kare, Lambert, Mathilde, Pfleger Luxury Weaving Stoffe, Riverdale, Tre Pini
Photos: Das Kaminzimmer
ome opportunities simply need to be seized. “When my partner bought the old building across the street to build apartments, I decided to take the plunge too,” says Karin Rainer, explaining her decision to place all her eggs in one basket by opening her own concept store. The grand opening of Das Kaminzimmer in Mauterndorf took place in January 2020. “We had to renovate the entire building. Only the fireplace was allowed to remain. Given that the store used to serve as a living room, the name is, of course, also synonymous with homeliness. My guests should feel thoroughly comfortable.” The Lungau native is indeed highly creative in terms of customer well-being. She is even a trained sommelier. As a certified wine expert, Rainer is very familiar with the Austrian wine scene. The in-house bar does, however, not only offer a variety of wines, but also other specialities. “We have a huge table where visitors can sit down and chat,” Rainer reveals. “They browse through the product range and take home a piece or two.” The store has no clear focal point yet. “We offer everything the heart desires: fashion from mid-price to cashmere, home accessories such as embroidered velvet upholstery or alpaca cushions, and jewellery lines made of local wood.” With regard to purchasing, Karin Rainer once again relies on her gut feeling – and her contacts. She headed the fashion, accessories, and footwear departments at Freudenhaus in Obertauern for eight years, where she was also responsible for purchasing - know-how from which she is now reaping the benefits. A focus on the fashion sector is the long-term objective. The businesswoman sees the fact that she can register her first regular customers just a few weeks after the grand opening as a great compliment and endorsement.
IN STORE
Hallali / MARLING
BREATH OF FRESH AIR
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ndrea Waldner was born to do this. Her father bought the premises which now house Hallali before her birth. The former stable used to be a store for hunting clothes with long-standing heritage. When Waldner took over after a few detours, including gastronomy projects and internships in the fashion industry, she decided to choose a name that makes a statement. The traditional hunting call of “Halali” was transformed into a fresher “Hallali”. This style also characterises the range of the boutique. “We combine the classic traditional costume element with modern influences,” explains Waldner, whose sales area extends over three floors. “The women’s department is on the top floor. What looks like the ground floor from the street is actually – due to our special location – the second floor. That is the men’s department, while the actual ground floor houses the outlet.” The top priority at Hallali is customer satisfaction. There are already concrete plans to perfect the shopping experience. “We have an inhouse seamstress and plan to establish a studio. We are currently in the test phase,” Waldner reveals. In the future, it should be possible to realise small, additional wishes immediately. Waldner cites a jacket for the classic dirndl as an example. “It sounds profane, but if you are getting married on a mountain, you should be kept warm. We design such models in our studio and adapt them to the individual needs of the wearer.” This degree of customer care pays off. On average, customers remain in the store for two to three hours. “And some even arrange their holidays around a visit to our store,” says Waldner happily.
Hallali Gampenstrasse 8, Marling/South Tyrol www.hallali.it Owner: Andrea Waldner Sales area: approx. 400 sqm Brands: among others Amsel, Better Rich, Cambio, Elisabeth Eugeni, FFC, Fil Noir, Giesswein, Glücklich, Gössl, Hiltl, Juvia, Lanz, Le Tricot Perugia, Lodenfrey, Luis Trenker, Meindl, Phil Petter, Repeat Cashmere, Sabine Sommeregger, Sportalm, Susanne Spatt, Van Laack, Weber + Weber, Hutmacher Zapf
“Fashion should be affordable,” says Hallali owner Andrea Waldner.
Photos: Hallali
“Every piece attracts the right customer.” – Hallali focuses on customer satisfaction.
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IN STORE
Claris My Goldie / ETTLINGEN
TWO IN ONE
Z
eitgeist should certainly never be neglected. “However, we do not follow every trend,” explains Claris My Goldie owner Nadine Hanke. She and her sister Catharina Golder currently run the second-generation family business. “We have our own style, which is natural and relaxed. We also have no qualms whatsoever to combine premium fashion with more affordable pieces from time to time,” Hanke smiles. This boldness is engrained in her DNA. “By launching Claris, our mother jumped in at the deep end,” she argues. “She has always been very petite. There were no suitable products available in Germany at the time. That is why she stocked up on fashion in Italy. One day she decided to take matters into her own hands. She evolved from a head secretary into a boutique owner.” The business initially consisted of two stores. While Claris specialised in premium fashion, Goldie focused on the inexpensive segment. The sisters decided to merge the concepts in 2019. “We stage My Goldie in the front area, Claris in the back,” Hanke explains. “This setup is very popular. After all, the Claris ladies have grown older and are occasionally willing to consider more affordable pieces. The My Goldie customers, on the other hand, have entered the professional world full-time. This increases their demands on fashion. However, we are eager to combine the two areas in the long term.” Customer loyalty is a top priority at Claris My Goldie. “We always have our customers in mind during the buying process. We have known some of them since they visited our store as little children. That creates a very special bond. We know what they want. Naturally, we bear that in mind.” Furthermore, the Claris My Goldie team relies on customer events such as in-house fashion shows or shopping events with live music. Monotony is clearly a term one does not know in Ettlingen.
A dedicated team: Nadine Hanke and her sister Catharina Golder merged the two family-owned stores to form Claris My Goldie.
Claris My Goldie Marktpassage 16, Ettlingen/Germany www.clarismygoldie.de Instagram: my.goldie & claris.my.goldie Opening: Claris 1979, Goldie 2009, Reunion Claris My Goldie 2019 Owners: Nadine Hanke, Catharina Golder Sales area: 120 sqm Brands: among others Armed Angels, Cambio, Catwalk Junkie, Cotton Candy, Dawn, Dorothee Schumacher, Friendly Hunting, Marc Cain, Minimum, Na-Kd, Not Shy, Pepe Jeans, Princess Goes Hollywood
Photos: Claris My Goldie
A hidden gem at “Marktpassagenhof”: Claris My Goldie in Ettlingen has 120 square metres of sales area.
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IN STORE
In addition to fashion and stationery, Rar also offers gifts for children and babies such as cool teething rings and rattles, cute bibs, and gorgeous lamps.
Rar / BEZAU
OASIS OF LEISURE
Photos: Rar
T
he “Bregenzerwald” region has a lot to offer. Changes are afoot. In Egg, the Behmann family runs three stores with a total of 40 employees. The main store offers fashion for men and women on 400 square metres. The affiliated toy and stationery stores spread out over 200 square metres each. The stationery store was initially a pop-up. Last year, the premises in Bezau were converted into a concept store featuring a café by the architecture firm Innauer-Matt. The interior design concept is based on natural materials, pastel colours, plenty of wood, and a light-flooded modern ambience. Today, the shop not only offers a wide range of accessories, but also a great selection of books, children’s books, and lifestyle articles, as well as an extensive range of fashion collections. “It takes time and patience to find rarities. Our heart beats for small labels,” explains Julia Matt, who runs the shop with her brother Michael Behmann. Customers can browse through a wide range of notebooks, cards, wrapping paper, exciting novels, hip cookbooks, coffee table books, and a fine selection of magazines. Upon entering the store, the heart of every paper lover is likely to jump for joy. The lovingly curated Instagram account provides an excellent insight into the range.
Rar Brugg 393, Bezau/Austria www.rar-schoenes.com Owner: Michael Behmann Employees: 4 Fashion brands: And Less, Anerkjendt, Cotton Candy, Jan n June, Kaffee, KMB, Lee Jeans, Native Youth, Modström, Pavement, Rockamora, Samsoe & Samsoe, Someday, Selected Homme, Sparkz Lifestyle brands: Ann Kurz, Doiy, Donkey Products, Fabelab, House Doctor, LA:Bruket, Life is delicious, Madame Stoltz, Nicolas Vahé, Trixie, Yope, Vielö
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EDITOR'S LETTER
Marketplace of Ideas The summer of 2020 makes possible – or better: necessitates – a scenario that has been discussed extensively and controversially in recent years, but would probably never have come to pass in this particular form without the historically unprecedented circumstances triggered by the coronavirus pandemic: a season without trade shows. In this context, the Janus-faced virus once again proves that it is not the cause of a problem or a challenge, but an admittedly breath-taking accelerator. After all, it became obvious many years ago that trade shows in particular not only have to change, but actually have to reinvent themselves. No one would ever deny Anita Tillmann’s visionary spirit and creative potential. Yet it was the Premium creator herself who, as early as last year, expressed her belief that “old school” trade fairs and fashion weeks have no long-term future as successful seasonal fixtures or highlights of an industry that is undergoing fundamental change at all levels, and indeed in all its sub-segments. This ruthless and bold assessment of facts, which naturally also affect her own business, is based on several market developments that trade shows have not yet been able to accommodate. Incidentally, this finding is internationally valid and should not be misinterpreted as an accusation. Trade fairs are ultimately a mirror of the market and its participants. The persistence of our industry is, however, really quite remarkable, especially in the context of literally everyone knowing that change is indeed necessary. I would like to highlight three exemplary points: bout the right timing: The debate about trade show dates 1) A has been accompanying me ever since I started working in our beautiful industry – in other words: for a very, very, very long time. In view of the increasing dissolution of seasons as we know them, and I believe that this dissolution is completely justified and absolutely necessary, as well as the enormous impact that the inevitable digitisation of design and large parts of the supply chain will have on all processes and their timing, there is so much more at stake than the rather mundane question of who claims which date. The future seasonal progression, and thus also the future dates of trade shows, need to be discussed outside the box – no holds barred. 2) Who will pay? The burden of financing still rests squarely on the shoulders of the industry, even though the initial underlying deal has long since ceased to apply. For many years, the (extensive) investment in a representative trade
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Editors-In-Chief Stephan Huber stephan@style-in-progress.com Martina Müllner-Seybold martina@style-in-progress.com Editorial Staff Stefanie Buchacher Petrina Engelke Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek Isabel Faiss Kay Alexander Plonka Nicoletta Schaper Veronika Zangl Art Direction, Production Elisabeth Prock-Huber elisabeth@style-in-progress.com
show presence has not been offset by an objectively assessable ROI in the form of well-filled order books. Many have begun questioning the notion that the communicative value, i.e. brand building and networking, is proportional to the financial outlay. This questioning has become increasingly frank and open of late, especially in view of the noticeable drop in visitor traffic, which all trade fairs, and thus also the exhibitors, have had to – and still have to – absorb. It is, however, often overlooked that the number of retail outlets, and thus the number of potential trade fair visitors, has shrunk significantly in recent years. 3) Nobody is an island, not even fashion. It has never been more evident that our industry needs to internalise interdisciplinary thinking and action. In a consumer-driven reality, fashion must always be understood in a social and cultural context, especially from an economic perspective. So, what we need in the future, and I mean need in the sense of a genuine necessity, are no longer marketplaces for products, but marketplaces for ideas. The idea is to learn... from each other and with each other. Anyone who succeeds in offering the best concept for the, I repeat, absolutely essential repositioning of the trade show can look forward to a bright future. Location debates are, in this case, of relatively minor importance. Yours truly, Stephan Huber stephan@style-in-progress.com P.S.: I cannot count how often I have read #weareinthistogether in recent weeks. We are ALWAYS in this together!
Advertising Stephan Huber stephan@style-in-progress.com Advertising Representatives Berlin Kay Alexander Plonka kay@style-in-progress.com Italy Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek janaina@style-in-progress.com Back Office Management Sigrid Staber sigrid@style-in-progress.com
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Next Issue January 2021.
The current situation does not allow for an exact publication date.