Wanted! The young target group follows its own rules

WANTED!

Coveted, yet hard to reach: the target group consisting of 15 to 25-year-olds follows its own rules in terms of consumption and communication. As digital natives, they grew up differently than the previous generation. How does the youth tick? And how can brands and retailers reach them? Nicoletta Schaper investigates. Photo: Peuterey Plurals

Newseum turns into a meeting place every Saturday. The concept store in Nuremberg attracts a young audience. One can hear hip-hop vibes and scraps of English. A number of people from Adidas in nearby Herzogenaurach regularly meet up for coffee here at the weekends. One can spot a group of young people taking selfies in new outfits in the spot dedicated to creating posts that can be shared online instantly. Store manager Nico Crämer has achieved what many dream of: he has turned Newseum into a destination for Generation Z.

PLAYGROUND

This generation is a desperately coveted target group, but it’s incredibly hard to reach. It seems odd, especially as this particular generation is interested in fashion, as was proven last year in a study conducted by the University of Vienna. More than 2,000 ninth to twelfth grade students were asked what they spend their pocket money on. With 42.9 percent, clothing is among the top answers alongside food and activities with friends. “The importance of clothing is growing immensely,” Crämer agrees. “They now spend more money on fashion than on their mobile phones.”

However, being relevant to the youth no longer has anything to do with what one used to call best practices. “Many would love to have them as customers, but nobody takes them seriously,” says Holger Petermann, the owner of Think Inc Communications. “Today, even 18-year-olds have an international network and have emancipated themselves with far greater brand awareness than before. Many older people simply cannot understand how they tick and what is important to them.”

Winni Klenk, the owner of Abseits in Stuttgart, is curious. “The youth seems about as unorthodox as they have been since the 1980s. Their look can be utterly incomprehensible, even for a 30-year-old.” In November 2017, Klenk launched Frieder 39, a store that stocks

Freed from convention and unmoved by the conventional: Gen Z has its own understanding of fashion.

top-end brands such as Off-White, Ader Error, and Marcelo Burlon, as well as Champion, Misbhv, and Y-3. “I wanted to prove to the youth that we stationary retailers have something to offer,” Klenk explains. He seems to have been successful. In the past, the younger customers merely flashed a mobile phone image of the desired piece at him or his colleagues and left instantly if it wasn’t in stock. “Today, they look around and try things on, because we have earned their respect.” Klenk is a long-time professional in the business, but at Frieder 39 he gives his young crew free reign in terms of advice. He knows that they have better access to the target group in all aspects. “One has to let them do their work, perceive them as entrepreneurs within the company,” Klenk emphasises. “Young customers enjoy an exchange on equal terms in a store. Then they’re willing to listen to our advice,” store manager Christian Wiedmaier adds. “A connection is quickly established as soon as they realise that we know what we’re talking about and that we speak their language.”

HIP-HOP FOR EVERYONE

Especially larger fashion houses are often too number-focused, not allowing enough room for new trends. Damian Scharping, the buyer for Men’s Premium, Contemporary, and Outdoor at Breuninger, has set himself the task of expanding the scope. “We’ve been focusing on change for the last two years, bringing in many new brands for a younger audience: among them Off-White, A Cold Wall, Heron Preston, and Comme des Garçons.” A limited-edition capsule by Off-White and Breuninger was launched in the latter’s flagship store in Stuttgart with streetwear influencers like Jean-Claude Mpassy and Willy Iffland on the 10th of October 2018. “The capsule was sold out in the Breuninger stores in Stuttgart, Düsseldorf, and Nuremberg, as well as in the online shop, within a few hours,” Scharping reveals.

Apropos Off-White: Virgil Abloh has not only injected hip-hop into high fashion in the wake of Kanye West, but created a hype with an impact that extends far beyond the bubble. Crämer: “The topic is no longer a niche, but runs through the entire range of fashion from Stüssy to Louis Vuitton. This should not be underestimated.” Limited editions and collaborations, which combine what is generally considered incompatible, fuel the hype even more. This has created a resell market around Off-White, Supreme, and the like. It has little to do with sustainability, but all the more with desirability. “The

“We strive to create designs that appeal to the people and that they want to be a part of.” Albin Johansson, CEO of Axel Arigato

“The digital natives are the first generation not to apply make-up or dress up for face-toface encounters, but for the photographs they take of themselves and others of them.” Carl Tillessen, trend analyst “Young people are much more receptive for nature conservation and sustainability than many people think. North Sails, a client who is very committed to such topics, proves this.” Holger Petermann, owner of Think Inc Communications

“We don’t want to scatter a high-quality brand such as Balr. We want to build a market presence in a selective and sustainable manner.” Timothy Hoferer, CEO of Modeist Men

streetwear culture has become powerful and fast, boosted by social media,” Scharping says. This also changes the demands on fashion, which now first and foremost needs to be Instagram-compatible. “In order to be photogenic, clothing primarily needs strong colours, strong contrasts, and exciting proportions,” trend analyst Carl Tillessen stated during a lecture at Deutsches Mode Institut. “Once one realises that the thumbnail of an Instagram photo is merely two by two inches large on a smart phone, one understands why silhouettes are becoming more significant, why logos are becoming bigger, and why colour-blocking is becoming ever more striking. It comes as no surprise that pieces by Off-White, Palm Angels, and Supreme are adapting the look of traffic signs and flags. They are, after all, signals that are supposed to be clearly visible from a distance and in poor visibility.” A style that commercial brands have tapped into too, bought by those who don’t feel like spending 400 Euros on a Supreme sweatshirt.

CONTENT AND COMMUNITY

Newseum boasts more than 9,000 followers on Instagram. Crämer posts a photo of a bumper car in front of his store or a funny photo that has absolutely nothing to do with fashion. But he also posts a photo of trainee Felix wearing a hoodie by Brain Dead. “We want to be perceived as real and ensure that our store has a unique profile,” Crämer emphasises. “This also means that we think twice about which trends we pick up and which brands suit our profile.”

The makers of Na-kd are especially skilled at playing the game. Utilising a network of more than 300,000 influencers worldwide and numerous brand collaborations, the Swedish label drops fashionable styles on a daily basis - witnessed by 1.8 million followers on Instagram. “We need to know our customers and be wherever they are,” says co-founder Magnus Hjörne. As of this year, Na-kd’s fashion is no longer only presented by models, but also by influencers and customers. A brand-new app creates even more customer proximity. Every user can co-determine new styles based on likes. “It allows our customers to feel like fashion designers,” says Thorsten Baumann, the Wholesale Director at Na-kd. “Their own, unique look is becoming increasingly important to them, which we notice when they put together an outfit consisting of all sorts of styles.” “The brand has understood what the youth want right from the offset,” says Petermann

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BERLIN-PREMIUM 15.01.- 17.01.2019 HALLE 7, STAND J02 WHOLESALE INQUIRIES INFO@IQPLUSBERLIN.COM

to the point. “As a brand that was launched digitally, Na-kd seems to have found the optimal way to connect with the target group faster than anyone else. And it’s making the best of this advantage consistently.”

The same applies to Balr, a sportswear brand that was launched online by e-commerce professionals Juul Manders and Ralph de Geus with Dutch football star Demy de Zeeuw. Perfectly positioned in all social media channels, Balr presents itself as a premium brand linked to football. It grows via its fan base, be it in the US, Japan, or the Benelux states. “They are absolute marketing professionals and remain true to their image. I doubt anyone can do what they do any better,” says Timothy Hoferer, whose fashion agency Modeist Men represents the label in the German-speaking market. “Whether on Instagram, Facebook, Snapchat, or our website, we not only create content, but also respond to and like the posts of our fans,” says brand co-founder Manders. “They are not just customers - they are our community.”

While studying fashion management, Erik Scholz launched a blog titled Erikschlz.com. In May 2018, he won the About You Award for the most influential social media stars in the “Upcoming” category. Fashion is his passion. His most important sources of information are Highsnobiety and Hypebeast. “In the blog, I showcase my looks and sometimes publish some socially critical pieces,” says the 20-year-old with 82,000 followers on Instagram. “I think my followers appreciate the fact that I come across as a friend rather than an unapproachable role model. I’m someone they can relate to.” More importantly, his adoration for key pieces by Supreme or the Triple S sneakers by Balenciaga seems authentic, not bought. This is something that young consumers are very aware of these days.

Are they also more conscious of sustainability, especially as they were born into a world of abundance? “Hardly, otherwise they wouldn’t flock to H&M,” says Phillip Ikrath, a Board Member at the German Institute for Youth Culture Research. “If a style looks good, sustainability has no impact whatsoever in the fast-moving world of fashion.” “I definitely sense an openness to sustainability-related

“Young people have become much more purposeful than they used to be when spending money on branded products. They are ready to dig deep into their pockets, because they promise social prestige.” Philipp Ikrath, Board Member at the German Institute for Youth Culture Research

“You need really good salespeople in the store. People who think independently as entrepreneurs within your own company.” Winni Klenk, owner of Frieder 39 Stuttgart

“In the past, the George Gina & Lucy wave brought many young customers into our store. Currently, it’s the UGGs and Canada Goose jackets. These pieces allay the threshold fear a young girl may experience. And because we treat her well, she enjoys coming back.” Sari Heuser, owner of Bratfisch Giessen

“We want to transform the point of sale into a point of experience.” Damian Scharping, buyer for Men’s Premium, Contemporary, and Outdoor at Breuninger

topics,” Crämer argues. “If a well-known brand launched a corresponding capsule, it would provide us with an even better selling proposition.”

LIVE FOR AN AUDIENCE OF MILLIONS

More than ownership, Generation Z is all about experiences. “This is yet another reason why music festivals are booming,” Petermann points out. “If you’re young, you want to have a choice. Should I go and see a band or go out for a meal? Should I simply chill? Young people don’t want to be dictated anymore. They no longer want one-dimensional experiences. This permeates all areas.”

Even the computer games community meets offline. The Gamescom in Cologne, which took place in August 2018, was a real crowd puller for the youth. 370,000 visitors enjoyed the vibrant atmosphere. The League of Legends World Championship reaches an audience of millions. The first Fortnite World Cup is scheduled for later this year. Such events fill huge arenas and are streamed live to young people all around the globe. “First-hand experiences are becoming increasingly important in the age of digitisation,” says Albin Johansson, the CEO of Swedish clothing and sneaker brand Axel Arigato. The label is keen to conquer the German-speaking market with the help of fashion agency Ben And. “People are looking for authentic experiences. I would go even further and say that originality has become less important - in favour of authenticity.” The brand opened its first German store in Berlin in autumn last year. More will follow, accompanied by parties and sneaker customising events. “This is how customers connect with us as a brand,” Johansson explains. “I’m a huge fan of seeing and trying on fashion in a store. Online lacks the shopping experience,” Scholz argues. “Even that feeling of being handed a bag containing the coveted piece is unique to me.”