Volume Formula

Volume

Formula

More is more. When fashion seeks more space, it results in new avantgarde silhouettes, wide cuts, futuristic designs, and oversized knit looks. This season, almost everything revolves around the word “more”, both in terms of cuts and materials. There is also no restraint regarding colours and prints. Forget the squeamishness of pastel and nude! Embrace leopard prints and acid neon colours! Wide trousers, jumbo down jackets, XXL cashmeres - “oversize” is the catchword under which the season celebrates its big appearance. Editorial: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Brands

Print Inc

Leopard & Co are about to make a big leap forward. Safari prints meet robust colour blocking. New are minimals and all-over prints on delicate qualities such as cashmere and silk. However, fake fur is quite capable of withstanding the pressure too.

Liu Jo

Marc O‘ Polo Pure

Trend Spotting

Karolina Landowski is a fashion journalist and trend consultant at Fashion Trend Pool, an international network of footwear and fashion experts. With her trend reports and lectures, she offers creative input for designers and decisive order support for buyers. She has agreed to map out the trends of the season for style in progress.

Karolina, what are the focal topics of the autumn/winter 2019/20 season?

It’s going to be a season full of contrasts. Fashion is following a variety of trends: expressive and provocative, classic and nostalgic, multicultural, transgressive, and - of course - many sportive impulses. The reflection on tradition and tailoring is a counter-movement to the fast pace of our time.

Which materials are most significant?

The focus is on fabrics with character that hover between nature and high-tech. Sur faces with structure, fancies with striking motifs, and digital printing techniques are on the rise. A recurrent theme is the combination of woolly volume and functional high-tech. In addition to fluffy wool, lush fake fur, soft plush, velour, and cord, favourites include striking jacquards and alienated patterns such as checks and hounds-tooth.

What’s happening in terms of outerwear?

Sport, outerwear, protection, function - the boundaries continue to blur. This is primarily caused by the fusion of high-tech with technical, innovative, and smart qualities. The most conspicuous manifestation is the emergence of voluminous puffas in the form of jackets, coats, and blousons. Oversized models come in bold power colours, sometimes even patterned.

Which new silhouettes can we expect?

It’ll be hard to overlook the influence of the 1980s. Architecturally over-cut shoulders and cocoon shapes define the new silhouettes.

What’s happening in the trouser segment?

Trousers will be significantly wider. The waistband rises, while the waist itself is often highlighted with wrapped belts. One can sense that the oversized shapes of the 1980s are making a gradual come back in this segment too. Trousers are complemented by casual trench coats or classic woven fur coats.

Which shoes complete the new looks?

The new lengths and silhouettes pave the way for a comeback of long-shaft boots. Sneakers are a given. The influence of technical, functional materials is still rising! This results in many hybrids. The transition to the hiking boot is fluent. Western boots remain a strong topic too.

Jumbo Down

Voluminous down jackets and coats take the shape of XXL puffas, bomber jackets, and field jackets. But the real action is happening on the surface: elaborate material mixes featuring nylon and leather, fake fur, and tech twills, as well as paper and dry touch elements, lend the classic quilted jacket a new, matt look.

Quartz Peuterey Plurals Sportalm

Coolotte

The focus in womenswear is shifting back to trousers. The culotte is fashionably re-interpreted with high waists, extreme widths, and XXL lacings on the waist. Flares and girlfriend cuts are also in the mix. Particularly striking are lengths that often end above the ankle.

AT.P.CO Closed Dolores

Laid Back Hero

Formal wear for nonconformists, relaxed casual looks, and robust outdoor outfits - the lone wolf is loosening up a little. Clean no-brainer basics meet high-quality workmanship and fine materials. Calm, earthy colours underline the naturalness of the relaxed silhouettes and cuts.

Closed Schneiders Digel

Oversize Softness

Delicate cashmeres in glamorous volumes with XXL stitches and patterns prove how refined knitwear can be. As rich unis or with ingenious structures, exogenous silhouettes stage the material dramatically.

360Cashmere Falconeri Marlino

Tech(no) AvantgardE

Function meets constructed volume; strongly exaggerated architectural cuts take shape in unusual material combinations. This athleisure wear thrives on strong colours such as acid orange and colour blocking.

FTC Cashmere C.P. Company Marc O‘Polo Denim

BIG POW WOW

In decorations and patterns the season celebrates the creative mix and match of different ethnicities and cultures. Indian embroidery meets coarse leather patches. Boots meet coarse knitwear in the form of ponchos and XXL cardigans.

Alpha Studio Marni Powderhorn

IN STORE BECAUSE TAKING A CTION IS ALWAYS RIG HT It requires joy, passion, and maybe even a dash of obsession to ensure that the stationary retail trade remains the very first contact point for customers, despite the shift in sales towards the online segment. We have compiled a list of exemplary store concepts for you…

Text: Isabel Faiss, Martina Müllner-Seybold, Kay Alexander Plonka, Nicoletta Schaper, Veronika Zangl. Photos: Stores