Act Now! Experts reveal what the fashion industry can do

ACT NOW!

The topic has been on the agenda for quite a while.

But how can the fashion and textile industries improve in the short and medium term in order to achieve a more sustainable textile chain? We put this question to various individuals who deal with this complex issue.

Text: Ina Köhler. Illustrations: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler

SUSTAINABLE ACTION IS A MUST Georg Dieners, Secretary General of OEKO-TEX Service Group

“The topic of sustainability is now being discussed widely. Sustainable action is a must in the face of global resource consumption. Processes and supply chains need to be optimised ecologically and made more socially responsible. In this context, the STeP label by OEKO-TEX® can be a helpful tool. With this certificate, we ensure that local labour standards in the production countries comply with the relevant legal requirements. The companies we certify guaran tee freedom of assembly, allow unions, and rule out child labour. With the OEKO-TEX® Standard Made in Green, we combine the assessment of production sites and product testing. I’d also like to share my opinion on the so-called ‘Textile Alliance’. The initiative was launched in 2014 by Gerd Müller, the Development Minister of perceive the fact that all major industry protagonists were brought to the table and the issue of sustainability thus found a broader audience as a partial success. Now, however, concrete action must follow. OEKO-TEX® offers solutions for brands and retailers. It is now the turn of the companies to take action.”

CHANGE THE INDUSTRY Thimo Schwenzfeier, Show Director Neonyt at Messe Frankfurt

“Sustainability needs to be followed up consistently. Fashion labels exhibiting at Neonyt must meet clear social and environmental crite ria. It’s not enough to use a bit of organic cotton. Innovation power also plays a central role. However, it is clear that sustainable fashion labels must first and foremost address the fashionable zeitgeist in order to be successful in the long term. Our ultimate vision is to change the industry as a whole through collaboration and innovation, sustainability and technology. To this end, we have created Neonyt as a business and communication platform. Thus, we provide an even broader stage for sustainability and innovation and create a framework within which one can find n ew business partners, exchange ideas, and give each other new impetus. In January, we have decided to introduce a common focus topic for the very first time. This time the topic is water. The Fashionsustain conference, which is a central part of the hub, revolves around high ly topical issues ranging from microplastics to water stewardship. What is discussed on the conference stage is made tangible in the exhibition area titled ‘Showcase of Change’. Beforehand, we plan to

Germany, due to poor working conditions in production countries. I stage a two-day thinkathon.”

DIGITAL TECHNOLOGIES AND CIRCULAR ECONOMY Prof. Dr. Uwe Demele, Dean of Master Programme “Sustainability in Fashion and Creative Industries (M.A.)” at AMD Akademie Mode & Design Berlin

“Future-oriented designers incorporate the entire value chain. This results in a circular economy that could reveal potential for cost sav ings and yield increases. Many start-ups are already pursuing this principle. They exclusively use renewable raw materials for textile production. Thus, the production process is eco-efficient with the lowest possible energy consumption. Transport routes are short ened and cause less emissions. The garments themselves are of high quality and durable, despite taking fair labour and social standards into account. An increasing number of customers demand sustainability management of this kind. Science contributes to this development by conducting research in the spirit of circular economy. Digitisation plays an important role: 3D scanning allows the production of individual, tailor-made gar ments. This results in less waste due to a sparing use of materials. Digital technologies inspire material research. A rapid prototyping process allows the production of vegan leather from mushrooms or plant remains. Such regenerable, natural raw materials are the basis for the creation of life cycle assessments utilising modern software. This enables designers to determine the most sustainable eco-foot print of a product in advance. Sustainable design includes considerations of longevity, recycling, and disposal. 3D printing allows, for example, the production of buttons with biopolymers. Furthermore, digital platforms facilitate the implementation of sharing and upcy cling concepts. This is an area in which AMD Berlin is conducting research proactively.”

ACHIEVING MORE TOGETHER Dr. Jürgen Janssen, Head of Alliance Secretariat, Alliance for Sustainable Textiles

“Any company can - and should - demand and promote sustaina bility within its sphere of influence. Our textile alliance, however, is based on the idea that the enormous challenges of a global fashion and textile industry cannot be faced by one company alone. We can only achieve comprehensive changes to the benefit of all through concentrated influence and joint action. Currently, our alliance represents 50 percent of German clothing retail sales. The alliance’s social and ecological goals would, of course, benefit in the short term if those companies that are not part of the alliance yet would join too. Together we can achieve more than alone. The alliance members implement the principle of corporate due dili gence. In the medium term, such an approach will become increasingly normal. Our recommendations: unite by joining the alliance, be aware of the risks within your own supply chain, implement corresponding plans of action, and - if necessary - adapt your respective business model. This also means learning from each other and taking joint action. In principle: stop waiting and let’s get started!”