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The Good News Setting an example: step-by-step towards
THE GOOD NEWS
Although it is still a long way from the world’s second dirtiest industry to a white vest, the fashion industry has finally understood that sustainability is a completely logical strategy for the future. These businesses lead by example! Photos: Manufacturers
Shoes made of renewable materials can seemingly also create a unicorn. Allbirds is the irrefutable proof!
The ladies in Stella McCartney’s shop window are destined for the com- post heap: sustainable mannequins by Bonaveri.
BIO MANNEQUINS
Bonaveri. It is no secret that Stella McCartney is fully committed to environmental protection. Sustainability is a top priority at the new flagship store on Old Bond Street. The shop exclusively uses the completely biodegradable mannequins (dubbed “B Plast”) by Bonaveri. The leading Italian manufacturer relies on sugar cane derivatives. The mannequins are painted with yet another innovation: B Paint. It is a natural colouring made of organic and renewable ingredients. Bonaveri, Renazzo di Cento/Italy, bonaveri@bonaveri.com, www.bonaveri.com
American Vintage
BAAAH
Allbirds. Silicon Valley is known for innovative technology and creative nerds. Recently, the IT stronghold started turning its attention to fashion. Sheep and unicorn lead the way. In this case, the latter doesn’t refer to the mythical creature, but to a start-up with a valuation in excess of one billion US Dollars: Allbirds. The shoe company was founded in 2015 and is committed to comfort, design, and sustainability. To this end, Allbirds relies heavily on renewable raw materials such as wool from merino sheep, sugar cane, and eucalyptus fibres. Merino wool shoes? An ingenious move: the material keeps the wearer warm, cools, and even protects from moisture. After all, the skin of sheep doesn’t get wet in the rain either. The average price for the wool runners is 95 US Dollars. They are currently sold via the brand’s own e-commerce channels and in stores in San Francisco, New York, and London. Allbirds, San Francisco/US, help@allbirds.com,
STEP BY STEP Martina Schmidl, Managing Director for Germany, Austria, and Switzerland at
www.allbirds.com
“For American Vintage, we are currently working with a new certified jersey production facility in Portugal, as well as with newly developed washing machines that significantly reduce the incredibly high water usage during manufacturing. In addition, parts of our collection are already made of organic cotton. We also use glass bottles instead of plastic ones in our showrooms, refrain from using non-recyclable packaging for catering, and consciously reduce paper consumption. These are our first steps on a path that we want to follow consistently.”
SEXY ECO-JEANS
LIU JO. ITALIAN BRAND LIU JO IS MAKING A NAME FOR ITSELF WITH A CAPSULE COLLECTION CONSISTING OF SUSTAINABLE JEANS. IT WILL BE SHOWCASED FOR THE FIRST TIME AT THE PREMIUM.
WWW.LIUJO.COM
ONTO THE COMPOST HEAP
C&A. Who invented it? Probably some eco-warrior… However, one should at least respectfully acknowledge that a textile giant like C&A has decided to embrace cradle-to-cradle. Following the C2C shirt, C2C jeans were launched last autumn, as was a certification intended to enlighten consumers. www.cunda.com
More than just a friendly turn: Warm-Me en- sures that its Nepalese production site works at capacity.
SHARING IS CARING
Warm-Me. Even sustainability multiplies when it’s shared: Theresa Steinbacher, the Brand Manager of Warm-Me, is an active networker in order to support the label’s Nepalese production site. For example, the Fine Edge knitwear collection launched a capsule in autumn 2018 that was manufactured in Nepal. Shared values, a corresponding understanding of quality, and - above all - the friendship between the two brands quickly proved that Warm-Me’s artisans are also a perfect match for Fine Edge. This is merely the beginning. On Warm-Me’s initiative, two other private labels have decided to utilise the Nepalese workshops. Warm-Me, Salzburg/Austria, theresa@warm-me.com, www.warm-me.com
WANT IT When sustainability becomes a matter of course - fashion brands that have a future no longer plan their success at the expense of others. There’s a different, better way.
ALOHA, SHOES!
OluKai. “Olu” stands for comfort, while “Kai” stands for ocean. The footwear specialist with Hawaiian roots is inspired by modern Hawaii and the island’s cultural diversity. This results in high-quality craftsmanship, modern aesthetics, and functionality. All these properties are embodied by the Nalukai boot. The leisure shoe is made of finest, smooth full-grain leather. The reduced design is underlined by cotton laces and decorative seams. In addition, the high-end lace-up is also equipped with a three-layer, anatomical EVA footbed and a non-slip rubber outsole for support on wet or smooth surfaces. The retail price for the Nalukai boot is 139.95 Euros. It can be purchased, for example, at Bergfreunde.de. A percentage of the company’s proceeds go to the Ama OluKai Foundation, which is dedicated to preserving the cultural heritage of Hawaii.
Olukai, Hawaii/US, T +1.866.4679694, info@olukai.com, www.olukai.com WHEN WOMEN MOVE FORWARD, THE WORLD MOVES WITH THEM
Raven + Lily. The African proverb above forms the base for Raven + Lily’s business model. Launched in 2008 as an NGO by Kirsten Dickerson and Sophia Lin in collaboration with designers from LA, Raven + Lily was transformed into a corporation in 2011 and relocated to Austin, Texas. The label’s fair-trade fashion strives to empower women all over the globe. It encourages them to work, to learn, and - last but not least - to be economically successful. The label employs approximately 1,500 women in Mexico, Peru, Morocco, Ethiopia, Kenya, South Africa, India, and Malaysia, who manufacture the pieces in artful and traditional handcraft. Raven + Lily guarantees its women a secure job, fair pay, health insurance, and training programmes. The brand also enables them to participate in social entrepreneurship projects. At its headquarters in Austin, the team offers an Open Space Office as a creative meeting place for women. “We are not yet represented in the European market, but we would be happy to establish partnerships with like-minded people,” says Raven + Lily’s Katie Chaput. The label intends to expand its e-commerce and wholesale activities in 2019.
Raven + Lily, Austin/Texas/US, T 001.737.2091072, sales@ravenandlily.com, www.ravenandlily.com ROTTERDAM CONNECTION
The Good People. Ivo van Deyzen, the founder of the Rotterdam-based label, is quite obviously not a perpetrator of fast consumption. Quality, style, sustainability, and a positive mindset are core values of his menswear label. He creates uncluttered complete looks around the themes of jackets, shirts, knitwear, denim, and chinos. All items can be viewed in the flagship store in Rotterdam’s “Pannekoekstraat”. The philosophy of The Good People states that the product life cycle should have as little negative impact on humans and the environment as possible. Timeless design, partially organic materials from Europe, and production partners in countries such as Portugal and Italy ensure long-lasting quality. The label offers two collections per year, each consisting of approximately 100 pieces. Purchase prices range from 40 to 80 Euros with a 2.7 mark-up. The progressive menswear has convinced the likes of Schnitzler Münster, Adler Altona, Revier4 Frankfurt, Tide 12 Sankt Peter Ording, and Daniels Cologne.
The Good People, Rotterdam/ The Netherlands, T 0031.651922220, ivo@thegoodpeople.nl, www.thegoodpeople.com
NEW LIFE FOR OLD SAILS
727 Sailbags. The climate change and similar issues have created a sustainability boom. 727 Sailbags is breaking new ground to stand out from the competition. The international label utilises recycled sails. Be it mainsails, gennakers, or spinnakers, each material tells its own story. The same applies to the Dinghy Backpack. This latest product is sewn by hand and impresses with functional features. Back reinforcement and shoulder straps ensure comfort. A recycled rope fastening allows easy access to the personal belongings stowed inside. A zipper provides quick access to the laptop compartment. Hidden compartments and a detachable section add extra volume. The Dinghy Backpack combines innovation and design. It is available in the colours amber, light grey, and black. Retail prices range from 250 to 275 Euros. The wholesale and retail launch is scheduled for spring 2019.
727 Sailbags, Lorient/France, T +33.6510.93975, Cfurber@727sailbags.com, www.727sailbags.com FAIR, EXOTIC, LUXURIOUS
Sana Jardin. The seven multi-faceted eau de parfums by Sana Jardin were created by IFF Master Perfumer Carlos Benaim and are based on the vitality of plants with highly concentrated natural perfume oils. They are free of artificial colours, parabens, and formaldehydes. The fragrances are free of animal ingredients and were not tested on animals. The brand, founded by Amy Christiansen Si-Ahmed, attaches great importance to social commitment and fair working conditions. “Starting with the pickers in Morocco, who harvest each flower by hand, Sana Jardin’s Beyond Sustainability movement overcomes limitations and empowers women both economically and socially,” says Gloria Massaro-Conrad, whose Premium Beauty Brands agency is the sales representative in the German-speaking market. “Sana Jardin won the Eco Beauty Award at the CEW Beauty Awards 2018.” Retail prices range from 95 Euros for 50ml to 185 Euros for 100ml - the mark-up is 2.0. The list of customers includes Harrods, Lodenfrey, and The Kitchener Switzerland.
Premium Beauty Brands GmbH, Cologne/Germany, T 0049.163.251.9839, gloria@premiumbeautybrands.com, www.sanajardin.com SUSTAINABLE LUXURY
Esemplare. Fulvio Botto and Francesco Martorella, co-founders of Pattern S.r.l., launched Esemplare in 2015. The duo decided to set a good example by developing water-repellent and windproof fabrics made of recycled PET bottles for their ultralight jackets. The materials are sourced in Italy, the pieces manufactured in Europe. The special feature: welded seams. “We have created the perfect blend of technical material innovation and urban design. Our reverse Y-construction of the fabrics allows us to give the structure a unique texture in terms of feel and comfort,” Martorella explains. Each jacket requires 10 to 12 recycled PET bottles. At a mark-up of 2.8, retail prices for the multi-seasonal pieces range from 300 to 700 Euros. The list of reference customers includes Saks Fifth Avenue in New York, Merci in Paris, and Lodenfrey in Munich. The collection consists of approx. 40 items for men and women, including sweatshirts. The range is on show at the Pitti Uomo in Florence and in the showroom of Agentur Klauser in Munich.
