Better Than Ever The fashion industry is doing better than

BETTER THAN E VER

Perception vs truth: the fashion industry is in a damn good place right now.

An opinion piece by Isabel Faiss

In 2017, the Germans spent more money on fashion than ever before. The fashion industry generated revenues of 35 billion Euros, a year-on-year increase of 2.9 percent. And there’s no sign of slowing down. Between 1970 and 1980, fashion consumption in Germany more than doubled. At 11.7 percent, the fashion segment tops the e-commerce volumes statistics by product group. According to a study titled “Pulse of the Fashion Industry 2018”, no less than 75 percent of global fashion companies improved their environmental and social responsibility ratings by 6 points from 32 to 38 (of 100) last year. Digital showrooms are replacing sample production, which spares resources and lowers logistics expenses. Technology advances have enabled Salvatore Ferragamo to introduce fibres made of citrus fruits that feel like silk and are biodegradable. In short: good news isn’t hard to find.

Someone Said It, Finally… For the last 12 years, I have drafted an imaginary letter to the editor of the ARD (Arnulfstrasse 42, 80835 Munich) every evening at 8.16pm. Oddly enough, nobody has ever reacted to it. The subject: “And finally, the good news of the day…” But then came “Der Stern”. This is not a metaphor, but a German magazine. Or rather: then came author Walter Wüllenweber and his book with the title (loosely translated) “Great News: Humanity Isn’t Doing Well - But Better Than Ever”. He substantiates his thesis with sufficient facts and figures to make hormone levels rise. Example? Here goes: “Since 2010, scientists have been able to prove that the ozone hole is actually shrinking. […] Today, people are healthier, richer, safer, more educated, and more liberated than ever before.”

We Are Doing Bloody Well Nevertheless, people are moaning and groaning more than ever. As mentioned earlier: perception vs truth. Our attention economy quite simply designates more space for bad news. A phenomenon that is well-known in the fashion industry. After all, e-commerce is utterly destroying stationary retailers, consumers are turning into over-informed bargain hunters, fashion fairs are being bought up by online giants, and sustainability is transforming into a mere marketing tool. In this industry, the unreasonable call for 12 collections per year makes the Dollar signs in Scrooge McDuck’s eyes spin. And then one is surprised that there is no demand. Well, it’s covered. How scary is that? Isn’t the unwritten rule that the next season can only be better than the last, even though everything was better back in the old days? Why do the numbers speak such a different language than the general perception?

Today, nobody would dare to sell a t-shirt straight out of the box, because the shit is so hot that everyone wants it. Right? City centres are increasingly monopolistic. The establishment is being hounded by Fast Fashion discounters. There are, of course, global influences that turn statements such as “from LA, but without punitive taxes” into a selling point. And yet the industry is doing better than it ever has. One or two problems could be homemade, or owed to the fact that the industry is still sceptical of change while it is overtaken by said change in reality.

Sources: www.bevh.org, Bundesverband E-Commerce und Versandhandel Deutschland; Pulse of the Fashion Industry 2018, Global Fashion Agenda, Boston Consulting Group.