138 WHAT'S THE STORY
Joop. IT’S COMING HOME The brand Joop and its future is currently one of the most intensively discussed topics. Thorsten Stiebing has taken the reigns to put an end to these discussions by implementing a clear strategy that focuses on Germany as Joop’s home country and strongest core market. Interview: Stephan Huber. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Joop
Mr Stiebing, do you cherish challenges?
Joop has enormous potential, enjoys an exceptionally high level of awareness, and is well-positioned in the market - all this is often underestimated. The task certainly isn’t a home run, but I accepted the job offer with pleasure, mainly because I have always liked Joop and the brand is an important element with a lot of potential within Holy Group. True, we have a brand awareness of 95 percent, high ambitions, and a strong brand image. The Joop brand still generates considerable retail revenue - not only with fashion, but also with licensed products such as bags and shoes, watches and jewellery, eyewear, and Joop Living. If we manage to channel this power in the right direction, in clear product groups and details, then we are on the right track. Joop is a brand with tremendous value - not only for us, but also for retailers. So what is the exact plan?
The plan is clear. We will get the brand back to where it belongs. One of the very first steps was moving back into the Joop Villa in Hamburg. This villa embodies Joop and is the brand’s origin - this is where Wolfgang Joop’s studio was. Your heart skips a beat when you enter 116 style in progress
the building. The cornflower is still engraved in the windows of the upper floor. Even after seven years of third-party use, the name Joop was still on the doorbell. The headline is “House of JOOP!” - this is where every aspect of the brand is united: Joop, Joop Jeans, and Joop Living. For us, the Joop Villa is a question of attitude. Joop is a premium brand, which is why I believe that our pricing strategy is right on the money. We have sharpened the brand’s profile. We are clear in terms of strategy and style. In terms of investment, we will focus on the product, there’s no discussion in that respect. We remain focused on the premium market - with our own individual touch and passion for our project. In terms of brand building in the fashion segment, Joop is our priority. Joop Jeans - with its glamorous past - will be an important factor again and enhance the brand. The concept is designed around Joop in the centre and Joop Jeans as part of the core. It is a derivative, but not a completely different collection. In terms of style and taste, Joop Jeans is inspired by Joop and will be developed further with intent. This is what we are currently working on with the design team, which is led by Gregor Langerspacher. The retail industry has missed Joop Jeans. The line was extremely successful and we plan to build on that success. The strategy has always been to pursue the approach of a global premium brand. We will definitely expand, because that’s what Joop is all about and Joop has the necessary potential to grow. In order to develop the brand
Thorsten Stiebing has developed a coherent concept for Joop; it focuses on a new beginning with Joop Jeans and – most of all – a return to the brand’s origins.
from the core, we have also taken a close look at the brand CI and substantiated it with content. The brand colour will be a deep dark blue, on which we place the Joop lettering in white - that does the premium claim justice and lends the products a certain power. Is Wolfgang Joop returning as the face of the brand also part of the plan?
His DNA is deeply embedded in the brand and he remains an important orientation factor for the future. What will the new Joop Jeans collection look like?
Joop Jeans is a complete collection. That being said, the focus is, of course, on jeans with retail prices ranging from 99 to 159 Euros. We want Joop Jeans to appeal to a wide audience and generate proportionate revenues. Joop’s women’s fashion will, for now, only be sold via the brand’s own channels?
We are currently in the process of developing a new winter 2016/17 collection with a highly motivated, fresh design team. We were inspired by a new type of Joop woman; the entire concept is based on that type. The collection will be made available in autumn 2016 and consists of approximately 100 items. Is there a specific timetable for its return to wholesale?
As a first step, we are selling the collection in our own stores and via our own channels, both nationally and internationally. We will decide whether to move into wholesale after the winter 2016/17 season. We are more vertically integrated and more focused on our own sales areas than before - this may lead to very interesting opportunities. Were there first talks with customers before the brand’s re-launch?
We presented our strategy to selected key accounts. They were
