The Next

Come January, we all start to wonder about the new, the proven, and the innovative. Just in time for the start of the autumn/ winter 2016/17 order season, we offer a promising prospect of the most influential topics of the season.

Mel Nienaber, Marlino:

“As a child of the 1970s, the fashion of that decade has always captivated me. The wild and revolutionary rock & roll attitude of that era inspires me constantly. However, my ideas are not exclusively focused on this particular topic, but merely circle around it and hint at it, thus leaving sufficient leeway for the individual interpretations of the wearers. Depending on with which outfit you combine, let’s say, a lambskin coat, it can look very refined. However, the same coat can also compliment a hippie look when combined with a floor-length skirt.”

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Sophia Bitter, CMO at

Airfield: “Airfield’s autumn/ winter 2016/17 collection pays homage to the style icons of the 70s, such as Ali McGraw and Farah Fawcett. This has created a casual, sporty look with a touch of upscale hippie feeling.”

Modern Boho

The 1970s look, which complemented the Boho look playfully with fringed details and crochet elements during the spring/ summer season, will be significantly more restrained in autumn/winter. The focus is on waisted Shearling coats and jackets, wool capes, bow blouses, and turtlenecks. All the aforementioned items team up with slim-fit flared trousers to define a clean casual look.

Minimum Burberry Odd Molly Milestone Bloom

Alberto Woman

Marco Lanowy, managing director of Alberto: “The creative studios of Alberto have been toying with different designs and materials, as well as tinkering with various cuts, shapes, and functions, for more than 90 years. We don’t limit ourselves to a single shape, mainly because trousers in all variations are our passion and expertise. As a specialist for precisely engineered cuts, we are happy about all new fashion trends, because we are renowned for reacting to customer needs both flexibly and sensitively. Most importantly, every new trend allows us to prove our skill and creative potential in terms of trouser manufacturing once again.”

Flared Flair

Culottes remain omnipresent in the autumn/winter season. Voluminous cuts, such as Palazzo and Marlene trousers in maxi lengths, continue to dominate the fashion collections. While the summer culottes were made of cotton and light fabrics, the culottes for next season are mostly made of denim material. This gives the trousers a sportier streetwear character.

Calvin Klein Collection Marc O’Polo Strenesse Ralph Lauren Marc Cain

Minimum

Simona Barbieri, founder and creative director of Twin Set - Simona Barbieri: “The opening of the season is focused on a proposal for ‘dall’appeal’ autumn colours - muted, yet accentuated by black as a background. The floral prints are made of Georgette and knitted materials, softening shades of pink and green.”

The Power of Flowers

Flower Power without any hippie throwbacks - this is where extroverted patterns meet minimalist silhouettes. The stylish all-over prints and large-scale floral designs are a perfect match for classic blouses and coats made of Teddy or Faux Fur. Clear cuts paired with eye-catching blossom motifs create a truly classy look. This is probably the most colourful trend of the autumn/winter season.

Windsor Lucky de Luca Closed

Andreas Schimon, product manager at CG - Club of Gents: “The focus is on slimfit suits, often with a waistcoat, but also interpreted in a more sporty fashion with patched pockets. Tapered-fit trousers and pleats create new cuts. The silhouettes remain slender, while soft and round shoulders dominate the overall look. The lapels are, in some cases, a little more voluminous than before. Pure S120 wool from Italy, supplied by Barberi and Cerutti, as well as woven diamond and honeycomb patterns by Marzotto, upgrade the collection even more.”

Thommy Hilfiger Tailored

Modern Tailoring

The ready-to-wear aspect is once again at the forefront of many collections, but with new influences. The waistcoat is no longer merely a part of the style, but can make a fashion statement in its own right. The fit remains slim, but casual; the materials are more varied than before. Classic cuts made of high-quality new wool in herringbone patterns and tweed are just as important as sporty jackets and jogging pants in elegant wool qualities and supple jersey materials. They act as a style break in contrast to the strict business look.

Carl Gross Black Line Marc O‘Polo CG Club Of Gents Luis Trenker Dornschild

Meindl

Björn Gericke, founder of G-LAB: “In all areas of life, we rely on innovation and high-tech. Why should we not include those aspects in our clothing?”

André Berger, CEO Handstich: “The motto of our autumn/ winter 2016 collection is ‘no season’. This means that the collection also includes pieces that are, in the context of a winter season, lighter and more timeless than before. We focus on a material mix of uniformly dyed leather, nylon, and wool qualities with small details in the lining and contrasting lock-stitch seams.”

Material Mix

Different materials, one hue - the material mix for autumn/winter 2016/17 is a monotone colour theme. On the one hand in an all-over look from head to toe, where coarse woollen fabrics are combined with flowing materials to create a sporty look, on the other hand in a mix of various material surfaces in a uniform hue. In winter, the outerwear is mostly processed in combinations of leather, nylon, and neoprene. The wintry colours range from earthy and warm brown tones, over grey and anthracite, to styles in pure black.

G-Lab Blaumax Woolrich Mountain Force Marlino

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Barb’one

Valentino de Luca, founder and designer of Barb’one and Lucky de Luca: “We believe that jeans are at the forefront this season! Barb’one display the entire spectrum in terms of looks and fits - all in the highest quality possible. Edgy patches and used looks - but also clean models with softer washes - are at the centre of menswear in tapered fits, while the women’s segment focuses on boyfriend and skinny jeans. Naturally, all our items are manufactured exclusively in Italy.”

Forever Denim

This season, the streetwear classic returns to a more opulent look. Patches and “used effects” are just as important as patchwork elements and extravagant washes. The women’s fashion segment focuses on perfect fits. Due to innovative, highly elastic stretch fabrics, the modelling effect comes hand in hand with excellent wearing comfort. This makes looks ranging from casual to glamorous possible.

Diesel Alberto Nudie Jeans Joop Liu Jo Hilfiger Denim

Martina Schmidl, wholesale director for Germany & Austria at American Vintage: “Speed is very important to American Vintage. The fact that 70% of our production processes take place in Europe ensure short distances, which, in turn, means that we can react to the needs of stationary retailers and e-commerce companies extremely quickly. The spring/ summer 2016 collection focuses on easy-to-wear styles such as oversize tshirts, knitwear, dresses, and culottes in flowing qualities like silk, Cupro, and high-end viscose, as well as linen and cotton. An additional flash collection (with delivery dates in April/May) complements the summer collection with high-summer pieces in new styles and fresh colours.”

American Vintage

To the Point

The recipe for a successful repeat order or the quick deal based on fast trends: powdery and berry-like colours, soft-wash look, cuddly summer cashmere, wide-fit trousers, and suede accessories.

Onomato Heldmann Philo-Sofie Catwalk Junkie

Souve