Horses and Turtles and Deer, OH MY! Into the wilds of Cumberland Island
The Live Oak A St. Marys Icon
Steel Magnolias Trailblazers. Camden’s Founding Mothers
9St. Marys—Step Into Her Light
10The Live Oak—ASt. Marys Icon
12When ATree’s Not Just ATree
FEATURES
51St. Marys’Treasure Keepers
54St. Marys Yesteryear
56Around Town
14Living the Coastal Georgia Dream: Cumberland Harbour
19ALegacy of Good Times & Great Food
24The Quarters at Cumberland Island: ACultural Memory
30ASymphony of Serenity & Splendor: Cumberland Palms
32Happily Ever Afters Begin in St. Marys
37Steel Magnolias. Trailblazers. Camden’s Founding Mothers
40Captivating Setting. Signature Lifestyle. Osprey Cove
44It’s Great Bein’a Kid in St. Marys
60Horses and Turtles and Deer, OH MY! Into the wilds of Cumberland Island
63ATapestry of Wonders: Laurel Island
68Where History Lives Part II
72St. Marys Power
74Toe Tappin’. Hand Clappin’. Lip Smackin’Fun. The Woodbine Opry
77Women at Play: Red Hat Society
79It’s Dog’s Life
99Mind-Body-Spirit: Making the Connection in St. Marys
Southern Georgia. Even the words fall sweetly on the tongue like the juice of a sun-ripened peach or a seductively rich Pinot Noir. This is the land that captured the hearts of writers such as Sidney Lanier, Flannery O’Connor, Alice Walker…the list is as long as the evening shadows. It is a world of deep mystery, open hearts and inspirational views – an enigma, a benison and a way of being.
The citizens of Historic St. Marys, Southern Georgia’s most luminous star, walk through their lives bathed in the light that is particular to this land of marsh, river and sea. This celestial
presence, both corporeal and visceral, beckons the photographer, writer, artist and dreamer within us all.
The shifting hues of St. Marys form a captivating palette of color and mood. On a rare, rain-soft day there’s no better beginning than a long, lingering waterfront breakfast at The Riverside Café. The aroma of coffee twines about the scent of the sea while we gaze at the shimmering brushed-pewter of sky and river. The Cumberland Queen departs and her farewell salute echoes in the misty air.
After breakfast, we walk to the long
dock that stretches out into the marsh and pause to look in wonder still. One never ceases to be entranced by this endless vista, for the marsh that sweeps toward the Florida coast shifts and alters hourly as the changing light paints upon its canvas. This rare ecosystem is the jewel in the crown of the Low Country—alive with growth, birth, change, renewal and infinite beauty.
“Ye marshes, how candid and simple and nothing-withholding and free Ye publish yourselves to the sky and offer yourselves to the sea.” Sidney Lanier
O braided dusks of the oak and woven shades of the vine, While the riotous noon-day sun of the June-day long did shine. Ye held me fast in your hear t and I held you fast in mine.
Ye marshes, how candid and simple and nothing-withholding and free Ye publish yourselves to the sky and offer yourselves to the sea.
Sidney Lanier
Another morning, drenched in the dew-soaked light of a new day, magnolia trees reflect the sun from their rich foliage while the palms capture the rays and toss them back like diamonds into the air. Bougainvilla and hibiscus blossoms drink in the moisture as the earth prepares itself for the noon heat. Even then, in the mid-day intensity of light and warmth, there is that which delights the eye within the shadows of massive Live Oaks draped in Spanish Moss. It is a unique interplay of color and depth, known only in this land of entrancing contradictions.
“O braided dusks of the oak and woven shades of the vine, While the riotous noon-day sun of the June-day long did shine.Ye held me fast in your heart and I held you fast in mine.”
Sidney Lanier
Then there is the “Magic Hour.” That legendary time of golden light and violet hue that whispers to the artist in every soul. All pause to savor this exquisite delight of warm, evening breezes, cocktails on the front porch, children’s voices, neighbors waving as they stroll by. This is St. Marys at her most captivating—a small town
cradled within “the vast sweet visage of space.” (Sidney Lanier).
We invite you to experience a place and a way of being that will captivate and enthrall, but be warned…though you may leave St Marys, you will do so altered in some profound way for there is no leaving this “Brigadoon” without carrying her within your heart forever.
Special thanks to Alex Kearns for these sentiments that so beautifully capture another dimension of the magic of St. Marys.
Like a stalwart sentinel, the grove of majestic live oaks that stands at the edge of St. Marys’ Historic District is the picture perfect entry to yesteryear. The lush canopy festooned with Spanish moss sets the stage for an authentic southern experience but, more than that, serves as an iconic tribute to the grace and grandeur with which St. Marys has stepped into the third millennium.
For hundreds of years, the live oaks— Southern live oaks—have stood their ground in Coastal Georgia, and the City of St. Marys is rallying
to ensure that as many as possible will continue to reign for centuries to come.
Recently, the City formed their own Tree Board with the goal of ongoing tree protection and preservation.
Thomas Jefferson once said that the best time to plant a tree is a long time ago,” new Tree Board Chairman Tom McClendon said. “And the second best time is right now.”
McClendon, who is also the principal at St. Marys Elementary School, says that a lot of live oaks in St. Marys are mature, and because they’re in a city, not a lot of natural re-generation is happening.
“We need to build for the future,” McClendon continued,
Washington Oak, but when it was felled, the Free Masons Camden Lodge #16 planted four more oaks in its place. Sections of the Washington Oak were sent to the Navy Yard in Boston to be used to repair the USS Constitution.
Bellisle—of the long-standing Donini family who own and continue to run the oldest nursery and florist in Camden County—has high hopes that as more residents become aware of the Live Oak Society, a new wave of registered trees will take their place on the national list.
“This is a wonderful way to honor someone special,” said Bellisle as she explained that the registration process is simple (see editor’s note), and allows for the tree to be named by the person registering it. “What could be more meaningful to someone than to have a living entity that could be here for hundreds more years carrying your name into the future?” she said.
Bellisle and the Donini family continue to do their part in perpetuating the growth of live oaks in St. Marys by donating live oak saplings to the city each year on Arbor Day. It is her hopes that funding can be found to erect beautiful wood signs to designate the registered trees at some time in the future.
A poet once wrote, “Trees are the earth’s endless effort to speak to the listening heaven.” To believe this is to understand the importance of revering the majesty of our great live oaks and to keep sacred their age-old dignity.
The St. Marys Live Oak Society Tour
What an inspiring walk or golf cart ride is through the streets of St. Marys, visiting these beautiful trees that are currently registered with the Live Oak Society:
The Quillian Oak 310 Wheeler Street
The Dodge Oak & The Purdy Oak at Christ Episcopal Church 311 Wheeler Street
The Bishop Stephen Elliott Oak Next to driveway at 311 Wheeler Street
The Gilligan Oak In front of 401 Wheeler Street Corner of Wheeler & Conyers (this tree died in the 90s)
The Benton Hall Oak In front of 403 Wheeler Street
The Lassie Hall Oak Next to the Gillican Oak and Behind the Benton Hall Oak Near 403 Wheeler Street
The Wright Oak In yard of 404 Wheeler Street
The Elvira Wildes Oak In front of 404 Wheeler Street
The Dr George & Dot Barker Oak Near the corner of Wheeler & Dillingham Street Next to 407 Wheeler Street
The James Tillery Oak Corner of Osborne & Dillingham Streets
Southwest corner of Elementary School
The Margaret Austin Oak Corner of Church & Ready Streets Northeast corner of Elementary School
The Peter J. Baker Oak & The Brittany Cameron Jordon Oak 800 block of Ready Street in median
The Gilman Oak Entrance of old Gilman Paper Company
The Murray Whiddon Oak Beside house at 109 East Church Street
The Clark Oak In front of 209 East Church Street
The George Gray Oak In median on Church Street Between Norris and Ready
The Captain Lang Oak Corner of Norris & Church Streets
The Mignon-Sterling Oak On Norris Street just north of Church Street (Marsh side of road)
The (John R.) Hernandez Oak Median in front of City Hall
The Lucille Trapnell Oak South side of City Hall Osborne Street
The Washington Oak Median in front of Orange Hall (there remains just the stump)
The Flood Oak & The Rudolph Oak In median at Osborne & Weed Streets
The Pratt-Wood Oak At The First Presbyterian Church 100 West Conyers Street
The Bailey Oak & The McDowell Oak In front of McDowell Park Next to Presbyterian Church
here is something both mystical and exciting about living at water’s edge, whether it is a river, an ocean, a marshland, or the legendary Intracoastal Waterway. There is an extraordinary sense of well-being and serenity that enfolds water-graced land, and nowhere is that sense more profound than on Coastal Georgia’s magnificent peninsula that is Cumberland Harbour.
One of the last remaining stretches of pristine land on Georgia’s revered coastline, Cumberland Harbour encompasses more than a thousand acres of natural sanctuary, hemmed by saltmarshes and framed by the confluence of three rivers making their way to the sea. Vistas of astonishing beauty greet visitors as they tour the oak-canopied grounds of a land that is as significant in history as it is in its natural gifts.
January 13, 1815, was the fateful day that a British force of 700 left their camp on neighboring Cumberland Island to circle around and attack Point Peter (site of Cumberland Harbour).With only 120 men to defend the Fort, the Americans were forced to retreat after a small ambush that served only to delay the British. This was to be the last battle of the War of 1812, contrary to popular belief that Andrew Jackson’s Battle of New Orleans had that distinct designation.
The British burned the Fort’s buildings, and then proceeded to loot St. Marys and her surrounding plantations. Relics from much of that loot were uncovered during a recent archaeological excavation underwritten by Cumberland Harbour’s developers, Land Resource. Cumberland Harbour residents enjoy telling their friends and family about the role their new homeland played in history, and appreciate Land Resource’s continued commitment to honor that role with a planned historical monument paying tribute to the event.
As respectful as residents are of Cumberland Harbour’s historical legacy, it is with sheer awe that they celebrate its natural beauty. They stand—seemingly at the edge of the world—and gaze out into the serene expanse that draws marshlands and rivers and tidal creeks to deep ocean waters just minutes away.
Five miles of Cumberland Harbour shoreline look directly at Cumberland Island, named by The Travel Channel as “America’s most beautiful wilderness beach.” Sailors from all points of the globe recognize the adjacent inlet as passage to safe harbor, and boating enthusiasts who call Cumberland Harbour home are thrilled by the deep water and instant access to nearby ports of call. Indeed, Fernandina Beach on Amelia Island, Florida is mere minutes away—an easy cruise for daytime adventures or evening entertainment.
With a planned marina and yacht club that will rival even South Florida’s most envied facilities, it’s not surprising that more and more yachters are putting Cumberland Harbour on their prime list of “best places to live the boating life.”
But it doesn’t take a boat to enjoy the great outdoors that Cumberland Harbour is built into. Stunning sunrises and sunsets, whispering pines and majestic oaks, natural springs and tidal creeks, ocean breezes and star-studded skies, snowy egrets and great right whales—this is a land blessed by beauty and preserved by visionaries whose passion for nature is evident in every home site. And what grand homes they are!
Some of the region’s most acclaimed builders head up Cumberland Harbour’s build team. It was no surprise that HGTV chose Cumberland Harbour as the site for its 2004 Dream Home. After all, the setting is one right out of storybooks. And just as the Dream Home enjoys a million dollar view, so too do Cumberland Harbour’s other homes whether amidst a woodland preserve, at the edge of the marsh, or riverside. It is a tribute to its developers that its unabashed devotion to maintaining
balance and harmony with nature is evident throughout the entire community.
A tour through the various neighborhoods proves the point: Charleston Place with its southern colonial gentility. The Oaks with its centuries-old live oaks and Point Peter Creek home sites with porch views of the Atlantic Ocean. The Retreat where cottage homes meld into mystical woodlands. The Battery with grand homes that share the same view as the HGTV Dream Home. And The Yacht Club Estates where boaters will bond, sharing high-seas stories at the planned marina.
When a person buys a homesite at Cumberland Harbour, they buy more than a place to build a house; they buy a place
Marys Magazine
where history is preserved and where wildlife, land and water are protected. They buy, as well, a playground to rival all playgrounds—six tennis courts, three pools, state-of-the-art fitness center , springhouse for community gatherings, gazebos, and an abundance of parks that welcome play at all levels. But most of all, they buy a sense of time and place that elevates living to its highest form.
With the southern charms of Downtown Historic St. Marys just minutes away, an international airport a half-hour drive away, and a panoramic surround of pristine waters, life at Cumberland Harbour awaits those who are ready to authentically and passionately live their Coastal Georgia dream.
A hearty round of applause erupted from the community last fall when Gaila and Jerry Brandon announced the re-opening of Seagle’s Cafe. Today the kudos continue to flow as great food, good times, and warm southern hospitality are served up against a backdrop of intriguing history, romantic waterfront views, and legendary sunsets.
“It’s all about the experience,” Gaila tells us as she explains how the new Seagle’s concept evolved. “We knew we wanted to serve great food at decent prices, but we also wanted to create a unique dining experience— more ambience, and a constantly changing menu.”
Kevin Berry, Gaila’s son and manager of the new Seagle’s, hit the ground running after his illuminating stint with the Ritz-Carlton where he was indoctrinated into the world of dining on a higher level. Seeking a tavern-style atmosphere with a bit of sophistication where people from
“It’s five o’clock somewhere!” And for St. Marys’ visitors and residents, a new reason to extol that bewitching hour awaits in the Riverview’s tres chic martini bar. Whimsical in design and warm in atmosphere, Gala’s Martini Bar is a study in fun. Elevated barstools give patrons a bird’s eye view of the ever-changing St. Marys River—a tall ship today is framed by a soft palette of orange, pink and purple—the legendary St. Marys sunset as promised. Spirited laughter mingles with serious business talk as table by table the room fills with an eclectic, ageless group of bacchanals. We’re on “Gala” time now, and everyone seems intent on fulfilling the bar’s namesake anointment. Though spirits of all kinds are offered at this non-smoking bar, clearly, for the most part, patrons are intent on seizing the pleasures of a well-made martini. Everyone’s tastes are covered in the extensive menu, but favorites include the Chocolate Martini made with Godiva Chocolate Liqueur; the Sour Apple (absolutely puckerific!); and the Key West in St. Marys Martini—Key Largo Liqueur, Pineapple Juice, OJ, and Key Lime. Top-shelf vodka and gin meld with exotic flavors to create adult beverages that lend an air of sophistication to even the most casually-dressed imbibers. The pleasure of the drink is made even more enjoyable when
the eye.
FROM JAMES BOND TO JIMMY BUFFET
Parrotheads might enjoy a nip at a Key West Martini in Gala’s Martini Bar, but their evening won’t be complete without a visit next door to Seagle’s Saloon—“Where Good Friends Meet.” This is “Cheers” St. Marys style. Where “everyone knows your name.” The charm of this authentic saloon begins with a clear lack of class distinction: the CEO of a Fortune 500 company is regaled by the handyman on the next barstool. A store clerk is entertained by the antics of a high-ranking Navy officer. Seagle’s Saloon— as it should be everywhere in the world—is a gathering place where the playing field has been truly leveled. The only requirement to participate in the reveling is to be open to a good time. Rest assured your evening won’t end before you’ve been properly sassed by Miz Cindy Deen, whose repertoire for the under-belly of the English language commands great appall for many but great respect for the sailors who are her only competition when it comes to coloring the world with words. She’s as good as entertainment gets when you’re in the mood for good times, and travel journals constantly put her on their “must continued on page 00
served up by bartender/manager Heather, a decidedly delightful treat to
The year is 1850. At evening’s edge of a crisp fall day, smoke curls from the chimney of a tiny wood cabin set amidst cotton fields and range stock. Drifting across dew-laden meadows and tidal flats, wisps mingle with the early evening mist of Cumberland Sound. The serene symphony of a lone flute echoes through ancient oaks, softening the clack-clack-clacking of the evening cicadas. The work day is done.
This is the slave quarters of Cumberland Island where hundreds of families— mothers, fathers, children—tend the fields and livestock for plantation owner Robert Stafford.
He is a kind man—Robert Stafford. A man with an uncommon affinity for his slaves. His relationships with “persons of color” sometimes conflict with the law. And though he isn’t married—and never will be—his closeness to the mother of his six children will last more than 50 years. She is Elizabeth Bernardey, plantation nurse and mulatto woman.
Robert Stafford was born to a poor white family on December 8, 1790 on Cumberland Island near present-day Sea Camp. Through shrewd business ventures, he became the wealthiest planter in the region beginning with the purchase of 600 acres from the daughter of General Nathanael Green of Revolutionary War fame. Stafford would go on to acquire more than 8,000 acres of Cumberland Island’s fertile plantation grounds, and at one time he owned 348 slaves.
The Stafford Plantation slave quarters comprised a compound of 24 cabins and one larger building that is figured to have been a medical facility, storehouse and/or meeting house. Each of the 24 cabins was approximately 16 x 21 feet and had three small windows. It is not known how many family members might occupy a single home. All that remains of the quarters today are 24 crumbling chimneys.
Though considered by archeologists to be one of the best-preserved slave quarters in the United States, the ruins on Cumberland Island have succumbed to the forces over the years. The tabby brick footings have softened into advanced deterioration. But much has been discovered about the daily lives of the slaves through archeological digs at The Quarters. Ceramic bowls, mugs, plates and chamber pots were uncovered as well as spirit bottle glass which led historians to the conclusion that Stafford’s slaves were allowed leisure activities. Gunflints, percussion caps, lead shot, and net sinkers recovered from the site indicate that the slaves were permitted to hunt wild game and fish to supplement their diet. Fragments of flutes suggested that music was a part of their daily life. The recovery of a single slate pencil is tantalizing evidence that writing (illegal for slaves) and possible reading must have taken place at the quarters. The fact that no evidence of leg irons or restraints were ever found on the plantation supports the notion that Robert Stafford was, indeed, a kind “master.”
When emancipation came, a small number of Stafford’s former slaves remained on Cumberland Island, moving to the area known as High Point. Most, however, left the island enticed by the Southern Homestead Act of 1866. That post-war act opened up 46 million acres of public land for sale in 160-acre plots in the Southern states of Alabama, Arkansas, Florida, Louisiana, and Mississippi.
The Quarters - 1850
Stafford Plantation
Cumberland Island, Georgia
Painting by Martin Pate. Courtesy Southeast Ar cheological Center, National Park Service.
In April of 2006, a Stafford family reunion was held, and 94 descendants of former slaves journeyed to Cumberland Island to visit the home of their ancestors. Doctors, lawyers, preachers—sons and daughters Robert Stafford would be proud to call his own. One by one, Stafford family members stepped up to a chimney and touched the face of history, many shedding tears at having, long last, met their heritage. With eyes closed, it was easy to imagine the curling smoke and the serene symphony of a haunting flute echoing through ancient oaks. It was easy to hear the soulful sounds of negro spirituals like Old Black Joe softening the edges of a full day’s work. And easier still it was to conjure up the conflicting emotions—joy, fear, relief, worry, hope—experienced by a people freed. Their people. The slaves of The Quarters on Cumberland Island.
Editor’s Note: “The Quarter s” painted by artist Martin Pate is one result of over 25 years of collaborative archeological and archival r esearch conducted by the National Park Service and noted historian Mrs. Mary R. Bullard on the history of Cumberland Island. The scene, with minimal speculation and artistic license, depicts a slave community of locally prominent plantation owner Robert Stafford as it would have appeared in the fall of 1850. The setting of the scene is midway up the island on the west side overlooking the tidal flats of Cumberland Sound. The painting is on permanent display in the Cumberland Island National Seashore Visitors Center on St. Marys’ waterfront. Special thanks to Brenda Barber Taylor for the photos of the chimneys.
Martin Pate is a renowned portrait painter on contract with the Southeast Archeological Center, National Park Service, to prepare historically accurate illustrations for popular histories, accounts, or illustrations of specific cultural events based on available cultural r esources information. Many of his works can be see online at www.pateart.com.
Everything must be perfect. The dress. The music. The flowers. The setting. It is the day when families are joined, covenants are pledged, and happily ever afters take flight. This is your wedding day—the first day of the rest of your life. And there truly is no lovelier spot to say “I do” than here in St. Marys, Georgia.
Picturesque settings abound in St. Marys. The Grande Dame of antebellum mansions, Orange Hall, makes for an authentic Cinderella story with her majestic staircase and sweeping veranda. St. Marys’ Waterfront Park and its romantic gazebo serves up a backdrop of whispering marshes, glistening river waters, and Florida just a few hundred yards away. The Marsh Walkout (just west of the Waterfront Park) is a lovely, serene scene for sunset weddings when the magic hour lends an almost surreal sense to a small ceremony. Smaller continued on page 00
ceremonies are also beautifully presented in St. Marys’ quaint bed and breakfast inns in the Historic District. For those who prefer the sanctity of a holy setting, St. Marys is prolific in historic churches of virtually all denominations.
Just a few minutes off the waterfront, many couples choose a “closer to nature” wedding at Crooked River State Park. The historic Tabby Ruins (near the Naval Submarine Base) makes a striking altar to frame a perfect afternoon ceremony. Both Osprey Cove and Laurel Island Country Clubs know how to throw the ultimate wedding and offer complete wedding packages as well.
Couples seeking something a bit more exotic might take a cue from JFK, Jr. and wed on nearby Cumberland Island.
Private launches or the Cumberland Island Ferry easily transport guests to the Island where a simple ceremony seaside or amidst the Dungeness Ruins makes for a most memorable occasion.
Cumberland Island’s Greyfield Inn (where JFK, Jr. and bride held their post-wedding ceremony) hosts picture book weddings in and around the turn-of-the-century mansion.
From the simple to the sensational, St. Marys is the stuff that fairy tale weddings are made of. This is where love lives, and where legendary “I do’s” are as abundant as the stars that dazzle the indigo night skies of Coastal Georgia. Photographs courtesy of Enchanting Media. www.enchantingmedia.com.
Much has been written about the founding fathers of St. Marys whose names grace the wood-carved street signs throughout the city—Osborne, Weed, Bryant and others— twenty men who, in 1787, paid the big sum of $38 each to purchase Buttermilk Bluff which became known as St. Marys. But much less has been written about the women who played a pivotal role in the growth of St. Marys and Camden County. What does a land baroness, an educator, an Acadian, and a general’s wife have in common? These are the women who helped shape the destiny of St. Marys. Some live only in our memories, and others continue to make an indelible mark on our beautiful town.
Catherine Littlefield Greene Miller
Catherine Littlefield (Caty to her friends) was a vivacious little woman and a favorite of George and Martha
Washington. Her husband, General Nathaniel Greene, was considered by Washington to be the best of his generals to succeed him. After General Greene’s premature death in 1786 at the young age of 44, Caty married her children’s tutor, Phinias Miller. The Millers befriended Eli Whitney, inventor of the cotton gin, and they poured their limited funds into his invention but were unable to protect his patent. The Millers moved to Cumberland Island where General Greene had purchased 7,000 acres of land. Caty is credited with building Cumberland Island’s first Dungeness. Her many friends included such legends as Lighthorse Harry Lee, Aaron Burr and Alexander Hamilton. After the disastrous duel between Burr and Hamilton in which Hamilton was killed, Burr came south and asked to visit the Millers on the Island. Caty’s steadfast loyalty to her friend
Alexander Hamilton kept her from receiving Burr who arrived to an empty house when he landed on the island. Catherine Littlefield Greene Miller, “Loyal Friend,” died on Cumberland Island at the age of 60.
Rhoda Wadsworth Clark
Born in Litchfield, Connecticut, Rhoda Wadsworth Clark came to St. Marys in 1801 after marrying Archibald Clark who had taken the position of Customs Collector for the Port of St. Marys. Clark, the scion of a wealthy Savannah family, met Rhoda Wadsworth while attending Litchfield Law School.
During the War of 1812, when Admiral Cockburn and his sailors took St. Marys, Archibald Clark was imprisoned in the brig of the English ship because he refused to tell the admiral where the customs funds had been hidden. In
retaliation, the admiral decided to burn Clark’s timber mill, and set sail up the St. Marys River. A friend of Clark’s, William Cone, rode ahead and he and others bushwhacked the ship and killed 28 British sailors.
At one point Admiral Cockburn took over the Clark home where Mrs. Clark and her children remained. It is alleged that Admiral Cockburn, upon seeing the English Crown design in Rhoda Clark’s parlor carpet said, “Madame, I see you have the Crown in your home.” Whereupon she replied, “Yes, and you’ll notice we have it under foot.”
The Clarks parented ten children. Sadly, seven of which died in childhood and one died in college. Their descendant, Tom Nesbitt, renovated the Clark home on Osborne Street, St. Marys’ oldest private residence, and lives there now with his wife, Catherine.
Matilda Harris
Known as the “Mother of Black Education in Camden County,” Matilda Harris was born in Camden County in 1857. Because at the time there were no public schools for black children in Camden County, she attended school in Jacksonville and was also tutored by private teachers. After her education, she began teaching black children by traveling to the churches in each community, holding classes for three-month periods, boarding with families one week at a time.
Mrs. Harris taught for 60 years, from 1871 until her death in 1931. By working with both black and white friends and county officials, she helped establish one-teacher schools in every black community throughout the county. And through her guidance and efforts, public schools for black youngsters were established. She also worked as an in-home demonstration agent as well as supervisor for the black schools. Mrs. Harris organized the first PTA for blacks, and was a respected Sunday school teacher and church secretary. She formed a civic group responsible for the building of the block wall around the black section of Oak Grove Cemetery. The Matilda Harris Elementary School in Kingsland was so named in her honor, and a portrait of this founding mother hangs in the school lobby.
Marguerite Comeau
Carbon
In 1755, the English took control of Nova Scotia from the French, and Acadian men, women and children were driven from their homes with nothing but the clothes on their backs. They were put onto sailing ships, and whole families were separated. The French refugees were sent to ports in many areas of what would become the USA, as well as the Caribbean.
Marguerite Comeau was one of these children. She apparently never saw her family again. This young refugee eventually came to San Domingue,
a West Indies island for people of French descent. While there, she married a Mr. Carbon, and they had a daughter, also named Marguerite. This daughter married a Frenchman named Joseph Descleaux. During an insurrection in 1799, Joseph Descleaux brought his wife, daughter and her mother, Marguerite Comeau Carbon, to the United States, where they found their way from Charleston to St. Marys. Mrs. Carbon died in 1829 at the age of 80, and is buried in Oak Grove Cemetery, with an inscription in French on her tombstone.
The Descleaux and Vocelle families intermarried and until some time in the 1950s, were leading citizens in St. Marys. Lucien Vocelle operated a grocery in downtown St. Marys. Lucien’s son, James, authored a county history at the age of 17, and became a prominent figure in Florida politics
Maria Ponce DuFour
Young Louis DuFour came to St. Marys in 1801, a refugee from the West Indies, whose father had been in the military there and whose parents had died of yellow fever. Louis was of French/Swiss descent, having been born in Dunkirk, France.
Sometime before 1816, he married a young woman from St. Augustine, Maria Ponce, of Spanish descent, educated in the Catholic schools of St. Augustine. Family history indicates that at the age of fourteen, she and her older sister moved to Fernandina to work in the Catholic mission. According to her fifth generation descendant, John DuFour, “Mrs. Louis DuFour was very concerned about religion in the growing little City of St. Marys, this being a frontier town where much crime was committed both day and night, and people lived by their guns.”
The Union Church of St. Marys was used by all denominations from the time it was built in 1808. In 1828 the church became Presbyterian by an act of the Legislature, which meant the other congregations had to find
new homes. The Catholics in the city came to Mrs. DuFour with a request that they be allowed to use the second floor of the DuFours’ store, located at the corner of River Street (now St. Marys) and Wheeler Streets, as a place of worship.
In 1842 the bank building which is now the Roman Catholic chapel was up for sale, and Mrs. DuFour either bought the building or obtained it for the use of the church. John DuFour said about his ancestor, “The great women of this part of the young nation are to be credited for keeping us together, trying to build Christian homes.”
Mrs. DuFour is buried in Oak Grove cemetery, and her descendant in this area is a Guale Historical Society member, Mrs. Bebe Williams. Bebe’s aunt, Bebe Lang, was instrumental in seeing Camden County history archived and made available through the Bryan-Lang Library.
Lucy Coleman Carnegie
There are a number of scenarios about why the Carnegies came to Cumberland Island. One is that Lucy saw an ad in a lady’s magazine and became interested. Another is that she and her husband, Thomas, were cruising down the Intracoastal Waterway on their way to Coral Gables, Florida, saw the beautiful flowers on the grounds of the ruins of the Greene/Miller Dungeness, and were enthralled. The most plausible explanation is that while Lucy was enrolled in a girls’ school, they spent winters in Fernandina, and she became familiar with the Island. Whatever the background, we do know Thomas Carnegie purchased 4,000 acres, comprising the second Dungeness property, in 1881. Sadly, Lucy also became a young widow in 1886, when Thomas died at the age of 43 from pneumonia, leaving Lucy with nine children.
That’s when Lucy moved her family from Pittsburgh to the Georgia coast, completed the Victorian home they had begun, and over the years,
purchased 90% of the island and became the Grand Matriarch of what we call the Carnegie Colony.
Money was never a problem with Lucy. When Thomas Carnegie died, she held 15-17% of the stock in Carnegie Steel. Over the next 14 years Andrew Carnegie, her friend and brother-in-law, bought much of this stock from Lucy, in order that he might have controlling interest in the company.
Lucy completely renovated and enlarged the mansion Dungeness from 1904-07, into the massive home St. Marys residents observed burning in 1958. She built homes for her children as they married, and may have become the county’s largest employer at that time, employing as many as 300 workers on the estate. Many current residents of Camden County have ancestors who worked for her.
Lucy Coleman Carnegie’s granddaughters, Lucy Ferguson and Nancy Rockefeller, and greatgranddaughter Rhetta Wright, were dedicated to the preservation of Cumberland Island, and had the connections to prevent the exploitation of the island by developers.
Douglas Louise Clark Hernandez
The diaries of Douglas Louise Clark Hernandez’ mother can be found at the Bryan Lang Library, and are an intriguing look into St. Marys of yesteryear. Douglas (as she was called) married John Rabadan Hernandez, whose parents lived in the house on the site of the current Porter-Bachlott House where they ran a grocery store on the first floor. They sold their grocery store to “Papa” Sterling, and just one day after moving the inventory to the new location across the street, the house burned down.
John ran the commissary at the pogey plant where the old mill now stands. After the pogey plant shut down and John suffered a heart attack, times
were tough for the Hernandez family. But Douglas’ resourcefulness kept the family going. Son Ward (who later became mayor) remembers his mother selling “frocks” to help make ends meet. John, Douglas and Ward opened a grocery store in the space that Market on the Square currently occupies. Douglas worked behind the counter while her husband delivered the groceries. The children in town knew him as “Nandez.” Credit was never a problem at the Hernandez Grocery. Douglas’ “soft touch” was renown around town, and when the store finally closed, it is said that tens of thousands of dollars of credit slips were simply torn up, freeing many, many needy families from a debt that would have been hard to pay.
Douglas also served as librarian for both the city and county libraries and was instrumental in establishing a cafeteria for the school. The Hernandezs were devout Mormons, and even though there was no Mormon Church in St. Marys, they made sure their children went to Sunday school at a local church every Sunday.
Dot Barker
Much beloved wife of Dr. George Barker, Dot Barker was a noted civic and cultural leader in St. Marys. She was the driving force behind the restoration and furnishing of Orange Hall. The music room in Orange Hall is named in her honor and the fountain in front of Orange Hall was donated in her honor.
According to long-time friend Wanda Bennett, one of Dot’s first involvements after moving to St. Marys in 1949 was the St. Marys Woman’s Club. She was very active in getting the Woman’s Club Building built—the same building that now houses the St. Marys Welcome Center. Dot worked tirelessly to raise money for numerous worthwhile causes including the building of the hospital. She enjoyed helping Santa distribute stockings on Christmas Eve, served as room mother, worked with the Boy
Scouts and Girl Scouts, and helped beautify Downtown St. Marys by upgrading landscaping and planting flowers in public spaces. Dot’s son, Bobby, says that his mother was “a true southern lady and would do whatever it took to make St. Marys a better place to live.”
In addition to these revered women who have gone before us, two grand ladies are working diligently to preserve the rich history of St. Marys and Camden County. Eloise Yancey Bailey Thompson spearheaded a committee to develop and publish the history of the county. The resulting publication, Camden’s Challenge, can be found in local bookstores. Mrs. Thompson is a charter member and past president of the Guale Historical Society and recipient of the Historian of the Year Award from the society.
Mrs. Thompson and Dr. Ann Harris Stoddard recently collaborated in the writing of another important publication about local history—The Tompkins-Holzendorf Legacy. Dr. Stoddard is a professor emerita of the University of North Florida and former president of the Guale Historical Society as well.
Special thanks to Ann Stacy for the compilation of the major portion of the Founding Mothers article. Ann serves as secretary for the Guale Historical Society and sits on the St. Marys Historic Preservation Committee as well. Some information was taken by sources provided by the Bryan-Lang Library.
Imagine…meandering tidal creeks and stately magnolias. Expansive salt marshes and untouched woodlands. Sweeping vistas of water-fingered trails jeweled by thick azalea understories. It would take but one aerial pass across the picturesque lands that comprise Osprey Cove to surmise the obvious: this is the living heart of the Georgia Low Country and the embodiment of all the beauty and quietude afforded a world-class nature wonderland.
As if the setting alone were not enough to entice those aspiring to a lifestyle of privilege and distinction, Osprey Cove takes paramount living to the next level with masterpiece homes, a luxurious clubhouse, and a championship golf course.
The Homes
A premier setting calls for premier builders, and some of the most distinguished builders in the southeast are creating showcase homes at Osprey Cove. From classic low-country to stately mini-mansions, the homes of Osprey Cove exude “privilege and distinction.” The red carpet was recently rolled out at Osprey Cove’s newest designer model homes which give prospective residents an eloquent preview into their future life in their own custom home. Whether they choose the solitude of a wooded preserve home site, the serenity of the marshfront, or the drama of golf views, residents will find themselves immersed in an enchanting ambience that only Mother Nature herself could create.
The Golf Course
The accolades accorded Osprey Cove’s Mark McCumber-designed golf course could fill volumes. From Golfweek’s “Top 5 in Georgia” designation to Golf Digest’s prestigious 4-star rating, clearly this award-winning championship course remains a favorite by professionals as well as players at all skill levels. Set against a backdrop of breathtaking vistas that define the St. Marys River basin, the fairways meld in effortless unity with the great outdoors as would be expected from a world-class course.
The Clubhouse
The Osprey Cove lifestyle defines living as a “high art,” and nowhere is
this ultimate lifestyle more emphatic than at the community’s Golf Club and River Club. Two million dollars was spent recently in the renovation of the golf clubhouse presenting members with a private club experience like no other. Overlooking a double green with picturesque sweeps of the tidal marshland in the background, the Terrace Grille sets the social scene with all the perks of private membership including culinary presentations by Osprey Cove’s own renowned chef. Guest suites are available for out of town guests and interested parties who would like their own preview of the Osprey Cove experience. Just down the street, The River Club features a private boat launch with direct deep water access to the Intracoastal Waterway, fitness center, Har-Tru tennis courts, junior Olympic pool, children’s pool and playground, and on-site boat storage.
As Osprey Cove’s final neighborhoods are opening up to unprecedented sales, it is easy to see why boaters, golfers, outdoor enthusiasts, and families who just enjoy the tranquil beauty of a low-country sanctuary are choosing to make Osprey Cove their home. With an envied St. Marys’ address and a location just 20 minutes from the Jacksonville International Airport, and a short drive from exciting destinations like St. Augustine, Jekyll Island, St. Simons
Island and Savannah, Osprey Cove is increasingly becoming the neighborhood of choice for couples and families seeking luxury living on a higher level.
Winding River In Harmony with Nature
Just six minutes from the gates of Osprey Cove—also boasting a St. Marys address—lays the picture-perfect community of Winding River. Nostalgia reigns supreme at Winding River where baby boomers re-live the easy days of yesteryear, and children discover the abundance of nature and all her wonders: collecting fireflies, lakeside picnics, gliding through the tidal creeks on a kayak, strolling through the woodlands on rustic boardwalks, greeting friendly neighbors on an evening walk on sidewalks that line meandering streetscapes. A vivid slice of
pure Americana lives richly at Winding River, and residents enjoy a distinct “softening of the edges” every time they return to their coastal retreat homes. Living at Winding River helps one understand why they call it the “great” outdoors.
The beautiful homes of Winding River are nestled in the open arms of some of the Low Country’s most striking landscapes—pristine woodlands, serene salt marshes, shimmering lakes and tidal tributaries. Crooked River State Park, just minutes away, is a great launching point for boating enthusiasts (on-site boat and RV storage is another perk for Winding River residents). An array of parks and interconnected trails throughout the community draw nature lovers of all ages into the sunshine that Coastal Georgia serves up in plentitude. And the social scene is as plentiful as Winding River’s natural beauty.
The Savannah Club will be the heartbeat of the community, an elegant gathering space with a fireplace and kitchen, comfy conversation nooks and game tables, a well-equipped fitness center, tennis courts, junior-Olympic swimming pool with a beach-like entry, and a wading pool and playground for the little ones. The design of The Savannah Club embodies a fun lifestyle with ongoing events planned by the Winding River lifestyle director—wine tastings, gourmet
A Signature Lifestyle. A Captivating Setting. Osprey Cove
cooking lessons, pizza parties for the kids—continuous offerings that reflect the residents’ interests and passions. Winding River residents have the added bonus of golf privileges on Osprey Cove’s private course.
The high touch of the Winding River lifestyle is complimented by the high-tech advantage of living in a community planned by visionaries. The Landmar Group, developers of Winding River and Osprey Cove, is known nationally as a company that delivers distinctive lifestyles along with quality homes and extraordinary home sites. Their eStreet Neighborhood Network is the perfect example of how cutting-edge communications technology can dramatically improve the quality of lifestyle on a daily basis. The eStreet network connects residents to the global internet community while linking them to each other in a community resident website as well, making it easy to access services offered by neighbors such as dog-walking or babysitting. Both Winding River and Osprey Cove exemplify the harmonious blending of neighborhood with nature. Both offer sensational lifestyles and the timeless charm of low country living. Combined with the ultra-desirable Historic St. Marys address, this is surely how life was meant to be lived.
Huckleberry Finn and Tom Sawyer would be right at home in St. Marys, Georgia. Plenty of white picket fences that Tom could bamboozle his friend Ben into painting. A lazy river perfect for floating on a ramshackle raft. A fishing pier to inspire some of Tom’s great fishing stories. And plenty of Aunt Pollys and Becky Thatchers to add just enough sweetness to any sunny afternoon. The Norman Rockwell essence of growing up in St. Marys is still very much alive, and one would be hard-pressed to find a more desirable place to be a kid than in St. Marys.
“Kid-quality” begins with education. The Camden County
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any in Georgia—comparable to a rating one might find in a progressive suburb outside a major city. St. Marys Elementary is just a few blocks from the river—one of only two schools in Georgia that close to a waterfront. Its location affords certain opportunities for learning that children of land-bound cities might not be able to access. For example, the hands-on Marine Science program led by local award-winning teacher Becci Curry. Through this program, students are able to participate in actual research that will be used by the federal government. They can just walk down to the waterfront and conduct real science. In the spring, St. Marys Elementary third-graders take a field trip to Cumberland Island, just minutes from the mainland.
their boat, fish, chase fiddler crabs, watch the sea otters and dolphins, make a wish at the fountain, or just monkey around a bit on the massive gym set that sits on a generous bed of white sand.
From May through September, local and visiting children have another recreational siren calling their name—St. Marys Aquatic Park, just a few minutes from the waterfront. (Tom and Huck would have loved this!) The park offers a “thousand ways to get wet” that include a winding shallow river, Splash Mountain, and a twister slide they call the “Orange Crush.”
“It’s the hardest thought I’ve ever fought To think of growin’ up—”
But the waterfront is not just about learning. It’s the perfect place for some serious playtime. The Howard Gilman Memorial Waterfront Park draws families from around the region. They come to picnic, launch
No matter the season, Camden County’s Leisure Services Division serves up an impressive number of recreational options for kids. With 27 parks in the county—from passive, to multi-use, to sports complexes—there are plenty of activities for all age groups. Baseball, football, basketball, volley ball, tennis, soccer, all-star cheerleading, gymnastics, swimming, wrestling, boxing, golf, track & field and continued on page 00
handprints on a plate. The colorful atmosphere in Pineapple Patch lends itself well to the creation of whimsical art pieces—piggy banks, goblets, picture frames—lovely gifts for doting grandparents. Manager Jennifer Thornhill plays host to many young groups including Girl Scout troops, school field trips, and birthday parties. “It’s a gift you can make yourself in just 30 minutes to an hour,” said Thornhill. Such a small investment of time for a memento that is bound to be cherished a lifetime. Thornhill will even ship items for visitors who aren’t planning on staying the three days it takes to cure the pieces.
Not every town has its own Submarine Museum, another great place to take kids for an afternoon of adventure. They can even man an authentic periscope while pretending to be a captain in the Queen’s Navy or (a better bet) the good guy pursuing a villainous pirate ship in the depths of the Caribbean.
And if you don’t want to take the kids out for entertainment, St. Marys has their own mobile creative entertainer for kids— Melodie Lane Floyd, “Clown of Kindness.”
party planner and will create children’s theme parties that range from a Western roundup to a Hawaiian luau. One of her most popular parties is the Little Princess Tea Party where she appears as a life-sized Barbie, and little girls dress as princesses.
Bein’ a Kid
Recorded by local artist Arlie McLendon www.arlie123.com
Silhouettes on a pale moon night
Worked up a sweat catchin’fireflies.
Gettin’up a game called traffic light
You know you gotta win.
Climbin’up a tree to see the movie screen
Hopin’ its at least PG
Move a little over so I can see
How I remember bein’a kid.
Gettin’ up in the mornin’ to go to school
Learnin’what’s right and what ain’t cool.
Teacher don’t you make me look like a fool
With another history pop quiz.
Gettin’the paddle for playin’in the hall
An’ readin’ dirty words off the bathroom wall.
Never cared to play kick ball.
How I remember bein’a kid.
(chorus)
Face-painting, balloon sculpting, party favors and bubbles are part of her bag of tricks. And for the special birthday honoree, she writes a customized story and frames it for hanging. Melodie has that innate ability of instantly bonding with the little ones, and loves to make them smile. Children adore her sidekick, Albert L The Monkey, as well. Melodie’s Party Gram service is also something that children and adults get a kick out of as she delivers special messages with lots of love, warmth and creativity
If you ever thought about all the things you done,
Sometimes getting’ in trouble was part of havin’fun.
And lookin’ back it seems you couldn’t ever get enough
It’s the hardest thought I’ve ever fought
To think of growin’up—
Campin’out with my friends in a brand new tent
Allowance saved and allowance spent.
Melodie is the quintessential entertainer for children and has a repertoire of characters that not only entertain but encourage positive personal traits. Her “Happy Lane” is a vintage clown that teaches children about kindness, honesty, love, respect, friendship and manners. (Sounds like a dream nanny.) She’s an accomplished
Hopin’ to lose our innocence
With a dirty magazine.
Playin’army with baseball bats
GI Joes and this and that.
Air guitar didn’t have a name yet.
How I remember bein’a kid.
What else is great about being a kid in St. Marys? The people. Their attitudes toward children are softer, more inclusive. It’s as if they themselves remember what it was like to be a kid. Most St. Maryians still have that twinkle in their eye and a penchant for innocent mischief that incites laughter. It is contagious, this spirit of kindness. And visitors often find themselves caught up in it. For those who have forgotten how to play, a visit to St. Marys, Georgia—where it’s great bein’ a kid—is a wonderful refresher course.
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What’s so great about being a kid in St. Marys now?
“The playground at the waterfront park. The aquatic park. Riding in the golf cart.”
Sam Lockamy, Age 9
“Being able to fish from the fishing pier everyday.”
Noah Keeth, Age 8
“Getting ice cream at Market on the Square.”
Zachary Goldwire, Age 6
“There are always fun things to do. And everybody in all the stores is so friendly to children.”
Caty Stagl, Age 7
“Taking my lab for a swim at the boat ramp. Casting a net and catching shrimp and fish. All the festivals and downtown celebrations. St. Marys Rocks!!!”
Robbie Brandon, Age 9
“I can walk to school and feel safe. The festivals and parades. And it’s great living where you know everyone.”
Falcon Harbinson, Age 11
What was so great about being a kid in St. Marys back then? “Swimming around the shrimp boats. Getting a soda at the soda fountain in Bennett’s Drugs (now where Riverview Hotel is). Playing Snooker in the pool hall. Playing pinball at Larry’s Chicken Box. Going to my parents’ drive-in movie six nights a week. Staying outside ‘til Mama rang the dinner bell.”
Matt Hernandez
Proprietor of Kings Bay Fixtures
“Having the entire community looking after you. Swimming and mudding in Borrell Creek. Roaming through the woods, hunting, eating chinkapins from the trees that once were common. Drinking warm milk from Tutney Bell’s cow. Riding the doodle bug to Kingsland to meet my father after work, and riding back in his car. Having no keys to the house, because there was no reason to lock it. Knowing nearly everyone in town.”
Charlie Smith, Jr., Attorney
“The freedom we had and the safety we felt. Our parents would just tell us when to be home and let us go. There was always something fun to do outside: fishing, swimming, going out on a boat. There were still cows in the streets when I was growing up in the 40s and 50s.”
Herbert Rowland, Educator
“Going barefoot to school.”
Calvin Lang
Proprietor of Lang’s Marina & Lang’s Seafood Restaurant
“Everybody looked after everyone. If you did anything wrong, your parents would know it before you got home. We walked and rode our bikes everywhere, waded in “Medgie Mo” Creek, and danced to the jukebox that was on the pavilion.”
Bettie Ketelboeter, Former Resident
“Driving at 14. Knowing everybody in town.”
Linda Love, Former Regent of DAR
Orange Hall
One of America’s most inspiring examples of Greek Revival Architecture resides just two blocks from St. Marys’ waterfront at Orange Hall. Serving as St. Marys’ house museum, Orange Hall’s doors are open to visitors for a first-hand look at the grandeur of the Antebellum South. Graced with period furnishings donated by local citizens and Carnegie family items on loan from the National Park Service, the interiors of the three-story beauty are rich with tales of yesteryear. Built sometime between 1829 and 1839 (the age is still under study), Orange Hall is constructed of mortis and timber with wooden pegs. Doric columns crown the wide veranda that
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History, nature, and adventure are all considered treasures by St.Marys’ way of measuring. And when it comes to small towns, St. Marys stands at the forefront of treasure-keeping with—not one—but three museums, all within a two-block area.
overlooks the stately oaks of Osborne Street. In 1973, Orange Hall was placed on the National Register of Historic Places, and is now a beacon for history buffs and romance seekers. Visitors are entranced by stories of the grand lifestyle of Orange Hall residents and by St. Marys’ most famous spirit, little Jane, who, it is said, can be seen peering out an upstairs window, or heard pattering across the floor. She has been known to move toys and dolls in her room during the night as well. www.orangehall.org
St. Marys Submarine Museum
As home of Kings Bay Naval Submarine Base, one of only two Trident submarine bases in the world, it is only natural that St. Marys plays host to one of the world’s most extensive collections of submarine memorabilia and displays. St. Marys Submarine Museum is located right on the riverfront and offers visitors an opportunity to get up-close and personal with the history and operation of America’s most famous submarines. The museum’s working periscope is among the most modern at any museum in the world, and kids of all ages love trying their hand at a lookout. The museum features models of torpedoes, deep-sea diving suits and submarine uniforms, command plaques, photographs and scaled replicas of submarines, an area for watching movies on submarines, working sonar panels, a history of submarines, a gift shop, and a display dedicated to the eight submariners who received the Medal of Honor. www.stmaryssubmuseum.com
Cumbe rland Island
National Seashore Museum
Contrary to popular belief that the last battle of the War of 1812 was fought in New Orleans, the last battle was actually fought at St. Marys’ Point Peter. Cited as a “significant event in a significant war,” it was a fateful winter morning in 1815 when 600 British troops overwhelmed 130 American soldiers and felled the fort that defended Coastal Georgia. The date was January 13, five days after General Andrew Jackson defeated the British in the infamous Battle of New Orleans. Yes, the war was already over, but the remote British troops had not gotten word. The history of the “Forgotten Invasion” is poignantly portrayed in a colorful exhibit at the Cumberland Island National Seashore Museum just one block from the waterfront. Relics of the last battle tell the untold story through finds from a 67,000 artifact dig funded by Land Resources Companies, developers of Cumberland Harbour that sits on the site of the last battle. In adjoining rooms of the museum, a depiction of the grandiose life of the Carnegies on Cumberland Island gives visitors an inside peek into that netherworld of the rich. Cumberland Island’s history—from the Timucua Indians through the steel magnate era and beyond—is illustrated as well as the intriguing ecosystems unique to the island. www.nps.gov/archive/cuis/pphtml/facilities.html
St. Marys shows her patriotism during July 4th celebration.
St. Marys Kingfish Classic brings in the big ones.
Culinary Arts chefs showcase skills at Taste of Camden.
Scarecrow Stroll is star of St. Marys annual Hay Days Celebration.
The Goodbread House all dressed up for the Candlelight Tour of Homes. (Seated:
