Spell Magazine October 2021

10 2021

H A I R

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B E A U T Y

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L I F E S T Y L E

Yinka Bokinni Radio's biggest and brightest voice speaks her truth

spellmagazine.com

Urban Locs - Butterfly Locs • Colour: T1B/30 © 2021 Feme Ltd.

The innovative 'one lock' looping system is designed for a fast and easy crochet install

Experience Faux Locs

The new Urban Locs is a bumper collection of high-quality synthetic fibre loc strands. Each pack comes with 18 pre-loc’d and pre-looped strands ready for a fast and easy crochet install.

Exclusively distributed by Feme Ltd | feme.com

10 Easy listening

08 Scream queens

Contents 04 S coop Breaking beauty news and the latest hair happenings 06 E verything you need for Black History Month Bespoke buys from the best blackowned businesses 08 S cream queens Halloween make-up to get you inspired 10 E asy listening Tune in with Capital XTRA's presenter Yinka Bokinni

04 Scoop

14 3 reasons to make faux locs your winter style We take an in-depth look at the commitment-free look 18 T he skinimalism movement A bit lazy with skin care? This strippedback beauty trend is for you 20 T he best salons for…

This month we head hunt the places to go for protective styling

24 Let’s talk about sex

22 S pell loves Feed your inner product junkie 24 L et’s talk about sex Oloni’s Netflix series and sexual wellness take centre stage 26 B ulletin The latest offers from spellbeauty.com

06 Everything you need for Black History Month

More pages Cover of Yinka Bokinni

22 Spell loves

EDITOR Jemima Cousins SUB EDITOR Julie Vuong WRITERS Jennifer Meredith, Keysha Davis, Gemma Rusiecki DESIGNER Marzena Wilk

FIND US ONLINE @spellmagazine E: editorial@spellmagazine.com

COVER OF YINKA BOKINNI FULL CREDITS INSIDE BACK COVER

© 2021 Feme Ltd. Reproduction of the contents of Spell Magazine in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited.

The views and opinions expressed in this magazine are the author’s own, and may not reflect the views and opinions of Feme Ltd.

P O SCO ry goss! all the indust Bulletin with

"OVERCOMING SKIN DISCOLOURATION AND UNREALISTIC EXPECTATIONS ABOUT BEAUTY"

Vitamin C Glow Serum and Active Fading Serum, both £41.50

Interview

On layering formulations, avoiding others, and finding the positives

BEHIND THE BRAND

DW AESTHETICS DW Aesthetics founder Cynthia Adjei on helping skin discolouration sufferers transform their complexions with her non-toxic skincare range.

Read the full interview at spellmagazine.com

“I spent my teenage years in my bedroom wishing I looked like my pretty friends. With the onset of puberty, my skin tone began to change. My face and neck became darker than the rest of my body with lighter patches developing on the side of my neck to my chest. Acne and oily skin also kicked in, which felt like a triple attack on my confidence.

steroids and high concentrations of hydroquinone and acids. These types of ingredients should be used with caution in conjunction with professional skincare advice. Instead, use sun protection every day and minimise sun exposure. Also, introduce mild acids to your weekly regime and double cleanse to ensure every scrap of make-up is removed.

“To try and address the problem, I began using products that caused more damage because I couldn’t afford quality skincare and wasn’t knowledgeable about ingredients. I count myself lucky that I didn’t cause myself long-term harm.

“Layering your skincare can be an effective method for treating multiple skin concerns in one go.

While previously a basic routine was a three-step process, nowadays it can mean layering six or more products. Thinner formulations cannot penetrate through the barrier of thicker ones, so my advice is to always apply the lighter formulas first.

“Women with hyperpigmentation should avoid skin lightening products that contain SPELL

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“Make-up is a quick option for covering discoloration. There are so many options available, and it can be a temporary or long-term solution depending on how your discoloration affects you. Make-up was a great saviour for me. However, it added to my insecurity as I couldn’t face the outside world without covering up.

“Unrealistic beauty images have created false standards that lead women to feel insecure and anxious about their looks.

Filters have reached such a dangerous place for young girls and older women, too.

Clients send me heavily edited images of how they want their skin to look, trying to fit an ideal that doesn’t exist.

I feel it's my duty to highlight the positives about their real skin."

Hair

PINTEREST DEVELOPS HAIR PATTERN SEARCH FEATURE

Competition

CANTU CURL AWARDS PARTNER WITH SPELL MAGAZINE FOR GRAND PRIZE

Good news... Pinterest has added a Hair Pattern feature that makes finding inspo for your next style super easy. Now you can narrow down your search based on hair texture, with new filters including protective, coily, curly, wavy, straight and shaved/ bald. “This new tool will mark a much-needed milestone for racial equity in the world of coding,” says hairstylist Naeemah LaFond, who consulted with Pinterest during the design process.

We're excited to announce our partnership with textured haircare specialist Cantu for the third Cantu Curl Awards. Talented hair creators (note: non-professionals included) will battle it out for a chance to win a host of prizes, including £5,000 cash and a 12-month paid gig as Cantu’s brand ambassador. The first-place winner will also assist celebrity hairdresser Dionne Smith for a Spell cover shoot in 2022. Editor Jemima Cousins says: “We’re so excited to be taking part in this fantastic competition, which champions the black community while boosting creative talent that often goes unseen in the mainstream media."

GROWING PAINS

Save vs Splurge

Grown: The Black Girls’ Guide to Glowing Up is the phenomenal debut by Black Girls’ Book Club founders Melissa CummingsQuarry and Natalie A. Carter.

With advice for teens on everything from caring for natural hair to managing money, it’s the celebration of black British girlhood we all need. Buy from waterstones.com, £12.99.

BEAUTY

SHEET MASK BAN Holland & Barrett has banned the sale of singleuse sheet masks from all stores nationwide and online.

It’s estimated that globally, one million disposable masks are thrown away every day. To make a stand 5% of profits will go the charity Ocean Generation.

WOW OILS Organic Black Seed Oil, £11.70

EQUI BOTANICS Black Seed Hair Elixir, £54 SPELL

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EVERYTHING YOU NEED FOR

Black History Month

Nubian Skin

In honour of Black History Month, we explore black magic in the hair, beauty, fashion and art industries

Black History Month is upon us.

Created by American historian Carter G. Woodson and brought to the UK

by Ghanaian analyst Akyaaba AddaiSebo, this annual observance is the reason our social media feeds are filled with historic quotes and black and white images every October. It’s why schools and universities dedicate month-long educational events to the Civil Rights Movement and Windrush generation; and why the homepages of our on-demand television services are filled with the work of black creators, such as the critically acclaimed documentary, 13th, and the must-see

Pose which centers around LGBTQ life in 1980s New York.

However, not only is Black History Month about retrospectively appreciating and honouring those that came before us, the challenges they endured, and all that they achieved. It is also about the here and now – the people who are innovating and creating spaces in industries where there were previously few.

Over the past year, following the rise of the Black Lives Matter movement, we have witnessed a burst of inspiration SPELL

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and motivation from black creatives, business people and leaders, as well as funding and support from sources inside and outside the community. Despite the challenges of our generation, including the ravages of the pandemic, pioneers within the industries continue to build foundations for future progression.

This month, Spell Magazine looks at the trailblazers within the hair, beauty, fashion and art sectors, those who have made names for themselves, and the ones to watch. It’s everything you need to celebrate Black History Month.

WIG WEAR

ART

WELLNESS

RADSWAN Radgrip T-shape Faux Scalp, £29

I CAN’T BE STUNG BY YOU (BLUE) A2 Giclee Print by Chinakwe, £250

LIHA BEAUTY Idan Oil, £39

BODY

FASHION

BEAUTY

FLO Organic Tampons, £4.99

APRIL & ALEX One Shoulder Jacket, £486

ANITA GRANT Double Cream Leave-In Conditioner, £7.75

GREETING CARD

STYLING

LINGERIE

STREETGREETS Gwan Wid It Card, £3.20

DIONNE SMITH Signature Straighteners and Hair Mats, £100

NUBIAN SKIN Plumetis Bodysuit, £75

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@lipsticknick

@mariipvzz

SCREAM QUEENS When a pair of plastic fang prosthetics just won’t cut it, take inspiration from your favourite make-up artists on the ‘Gram and up the fright factor with paints, powders and pigments. We see a prize for Best Fancy Dress with your name on it...

SHRINE Red Blood Glitter Tears, £6.50

@cakefacerj

@iamnatashamondesir

@itsjustfatimah

@afroglory

@chelypink23

MAKEUP REVOLUTION Disney Nightmare Before Christmas Eyeshadow Palette, £15

@jakobejay

TRENDS 2021

BEN NYE 3D Special Effects Kit, £28

MAKEUP REVOLUTION Disney Nightmare Before Christmas Eyeshadow Palette, £15 SPELL

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4-way parting softer cap Pre-plucked Swiss lace Heat-resistant up to 180º

ENDLESS STYLING OPTIONS To find out more go to www.feme.com EXCLUSIVELY DISTRIBUTED BY FEME LTD. +44 (0)20 8254 3600 - SALES@FEME.COM

Style shown: Vixen Blow Out Straight 26” Colour 950 © 2021 Feme Ltd

listening

E A S Y We tune in with Capital XTRA radio presenter, Yinka Bokinni, about male opinions, HairTok and designer crocs

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Did video kill the radio star? Not according to radio DJ and television presenter Yinka Bokinni. She’s hit the ground running in both mediums – much like her move into marathons, starting with this year’s 26.2mile race in the capital. Between pounding the pavements to keep up with a rigorous training schedule, and 12-hour long studio days, the self-confessed radio nerd is adding more strings to her bow with TED talks, true crime shows and groundbreaking television documentaries.

For her debut Spell cover, Yinka fills in the gaps on her flourishing career, reveals how she winds down with soul-nourishing self-care, and missed the boat on Balenciaga Crocs. We spoke to Yinka before the London Marathon, which took place on 3 October 2021.

YOU’VE JUST ANNOUNCED THAT YOU’RE RUNNING FOR THE LONDON MARATHON - HOW IS THAT FITTING INTO YOUR SCHEDULE?

I just run everywhere! Anywhere in London, look out the window and you might see me running past! I have a training schedule with a trainer and a group chat, but I’m really fit and work out a lot anyway. When the opportunity came to work with Sports Direct and New Balance, I would have been mad to turn it down. It’s tough and will take a lot out of me, but I better finish!

BEING A RADIO PRESENTER DOES IT MAKE YOU LESS IMAGE FOCUSED?

I’m a radio nerd, so for me it’s about the job. But ultimately, radio is an anonymous medium in that people have to actively search to find how you look. It takes the pressure off a bit.

However, I think that radio is a lot less forgiving than TV. On TV you can nod and gesture, whereas on radio that’s radio silence. So there’s pressure to fill that silence and be quippy, quick and quirky. But it’s what I live for.

WHAT’S YOUR RELATIONSHIP LIKE WITH YOUR HAIR?

I’m having a bad hair decade! I went natural six or seven years ago, and I still don’t know what hair type I have.

Everyone tells me it’s 4C, so I go with that. I don’t have shiny curls, it’s quite kinky. It took me a while to love it because my sisters have that 4A texture - they just put conditioner on

“I DON’T GIVE A HECK WHAT MEN THINK… I DO MY HAIR FOR MYSELF” it, and Bob’s your uncle, whereas I’m getting my hair braided a lot of the time. However, the versatility with my texture is unmatched, so I like to be experimental and switch it up. It’s been a long road, but finally, in my thirties, I’m starting to love it.

DO YOU THINK BRANDS ARE DOING A GOOD JOB AT REPPING DIFFERENT HAIR TYPES TODAY?

I think it’s better than it was before.

Everything has the ability to improve.

Brands like X-Pression have provided hair for braiding for ages. But there are also newer companies like Afrocenchix who offer natural products, and my hair drinks that stuff! I haven’t found something more compatible since I discovered broccoli! So I think that brands are doing better, but there’s a long way to go in terms of representing hair types and making that more visible, especially for someone like me who doesn’t have curly hair.

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DO YOU THINK NOWADAYS GUYS ARE MORE ACCEPTING OF WOMEN WEARING WIGS AND WEAVES?

I couldn’t tell you, I don’t give a heck what men think. If they are more accepting, good for them, because they should be getting over themselves. I do my hair for myself. I love looking good and feeling pride.

But I also want to look good for other women, because we know that when someone who identifies as being a woman, or even non-binary, walks into a room and their hair is laid or freshly braided, you appreciate the time that has gone into it.

HAVE YOU TAKEN ANY BEAUTY TIPS FROM TIKTOK? IF SO, DO SHARE

Yes, and I’m ashamed because there are certain things I’ve learned that I really didn’t know. For example, when you’re braiding your hair you should actually part it and put it in elastic bands and then braid on top. That

IN YOUR OPINION, WHAT MAKES YOU GOOD AT YOUR JOB?

I think I’m good at my job because of who I am. At work, we talk a lot about what we would be doing if we weren’t in our current jobs, and I say that I’ve been fired from pretty much every job that I ever had before I started in broadcasting and presenting. I don’t say that with pride because it’s obviously a little bit embarrassing, but it’s a fact. And I got fired from these jobs because I never really cared or had any passion for the work. When I found something that I could do for free, or even pay to do, you learn a certain tenacity that makes you good at your job. The compliments from listeners help as well - I find it’s a little bit like oxygen sometimes!

WHAT GOT YOU INTO TRUE CRIME?

“I’VE BEEN FIRED FROM PRETTY MUCH EVERY JOB” cut three hours out of my styling time. TikTokkers always say ‘trust the process’, and they have me watching for hours on HairTok. WE KNOW YOU LOVE YOUR CROCS! IF THEY MADE A CROC HEEL, WOULD YOU WEAR IT?

Balenciaga did make one but it sold out, so I couldn’t get it! But I did buy a Gucci croc and now everyone thinks I’ve lost my mind.

So many people want to know this because I randomly started publishing true crime YouTube videos and no one asked me to do it! I’m fascinated and morbidly curious about the things that people do to one another. I’m not a violent person; I don’t even raise my voice much. So I can’t imagine being in the mindframe of the people in the cases I’ve researched. It’s also a different string to my bow, so it’s quite fulfilling to show a different side to myself and the light and shade of my personality, as well as bringing a different take on true crime. I’m working with Channel 4 on a documentary about online hit men, as well as a longer online series, and that’s really exciting because it’s something that I dreamed up in my dining room. It’s called The Kill List, and it’s in two parts. There are people who have paid money to have people killed,

and they put out information about the victim on the dark web, like their name, age, address, phone number and job title. We’re investigating how real this threat is and what happens when the incidents aren’t investigated. It’s a bizarre world.

DESCRIBE YOUR PERFECT HALLOWEEN FANCY DRESS OUTFIT?

Voldemort! I love Harry Potter! I’m going to a Halloween party hosted by a friend who always suggests a theme; in 2018 it was American Horror Story: Freak Show, 2019 was Alice In Wonderland, and this year it’s ‘villains’.

So I’m going to wear a bald cap, tape my nose down, buy a Nagini and become Voldemort.

WHO’S THE BIGGEST INSPIRATION IN YOUR LIFE?

I’ve got four: all of my sisters. I adore them. And around 10 of my best mates! If I had to pick my biggest inspiration, though, it would be my friend Dionne because she’s just ‘herself’ and she’s always in my corner. When people ask me about inspirations, I always go close to home.

In terms of more well known people, I’m inspired by Trisha Goddard. I think she’s a G and the way she shut down Piers Morgan the other day was wicked.

Shayna also inspires me, because to put up with me is a feat, and she’s my best friend and that comes across to listeners which is why I think the show does so well. It’s a blessing to be able to work with her.

Follow @yinkabokinni Visit spellmagazine.co.uk for Yinka’s BTS

YINKA’S CHART TOPPERS Turn up the volume with style hits inspired by our radio star

PANDORA Harry Potter Silver Snitch Clasp Bangle, £70

NEW BALANCE Icon Crew, £45 BIG BEAUTIFUL HAIR Kinky Curly, £22.99

CROCS Tie-Dye Lined Clog, £49.99

SPELL

AFROCHENIX Seal Moisture LockingHair Oil, £15.99

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Hair: Outre Big Beautiful Hair Kinky Curly Fashion: (This page) BoohooMan Blazer Accessories: (Both pages) Earrings Vicki Sarge; Bracelet & Necklace Tilly Sveaas Fashion: (Left page) Top stylist’s own; Trousers Versace

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3 reasons to wear faux locs We talk to the hair pros about the protective style of the moment

Did you know the hashtag #fauxlocs has been searched over million times?

At Spell we’ve looked into our crystal ball and predict faux locs will continue to be popular, even in the winter months.

The omnipresent style, which uses synthetic extensions to mimic the look of traditional locs, has been in heavy rotation among our favourite celebs and influencers. If you haven’t tried the commitmentfree style, here are a few reasons to give it a go...

YOU DON’T HAVE TO DO A SINGLE THING

There are many ways to install faux locs. The most popular include doing a full head of single braids and wrapping hair extensions around each plait (pretty time-consuming and heavy on the head), and the crochet method, which involves canerowing your natural hair and using a latch hook needle to feed the strands through. Rebecca, crochet braid specialist and founder of Becrochetcreation has found many of her clients have turned to faux locs because of the easy maintenance.

“Unlike other protective styles – think braids and canerows – faux locs don’t have to look pristine. A slightly ‘lived in’ look makes them appear more authentic.”

Award-winning hairstylist and faux loc wearer Dionne Smith adds cleansing the hair every few weeks means women have time to get on with other things in their lives. “It’s a fact women are seeking out quicker hair solutions.

No one wants to spend all day in the salon, especially not every week. A simple astringent ingredient like apple cider vinegar will remove grime and build-up from your scalp and keep the extensions clean.”

THERE ARE DIFFERENT LOC STYLES TO CHOOSE FROM

Faux locs are far from boring. You can play with the length, experiment with colour and wear textures of every kind. Hairstylist and owner of Elite Hair Lounge, Talisha Cox

explains further: “This trend has evolved so much. Distressed locs, the bohemian cousin to passion twists and butterfly locs, have what I call a distinctive curly-fries loop that gives a signature curl,” she says. “I think people love the fact that they can have any desired loc; long, short, dip-dye colouring, skinny, jumbo sized – all without the commitment of locking their hair.” Rebecca adds, “It’s great to see brands have become more inventive with the textures and styles available, making it more appealing to those who normally might not consider it.”

IT LOOKS FASHIONABLE AND PROFESSIONAL

Rihanna wore piled high dreadlocks in the movie Ocean 8; Zendaya rocked faux locs on the red carpet; musical duo Chloe x Halle frequently mix their natural locs with extensions. Making it to mainstream fashion has certainly cemented faux locs’ style prowess. As mentioned, this is one of the few hairstyles that actually look better the ‘messier’ they become, and yet, this hairstyle can be worn in a professional capacity.

“Sadly, locs have an outdated stigma of being unkempt and messy but things are changing,” says Jemima Cousins, head of content at Spell Beauty. “With key figures like Dawn Butler wearing locs in the House of Commons and influencers pairing the style with today’s fashion trends, it’s becoming less of a novelty and more of a norm.”

The latest ‘locstars’ available on Spell Beauty Essential buys for maintaining and refreshing locs at the two-week point and beyond

Wow Oils Organic Tea Tree, Green Tea & Peppermint Oils, £11.70

ORS Olive Oil Wrap Set Mousse, £4.99 Design Essential Edge Tamer, £x.xx

Urban Locs Butterfly Locs, £10.99

The ‘one-loop’ lock makes it easy to re-install strands

Use a detoxifying oil to massage your scalp SPELL

Keep flyaways at bay with a few squirts of mousse

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Reseal or re-wrap loose locs with an edge control

Strand TEST

Infinity Locs One for the quintessential boho babe, the strand DNA for this style is a perfect mix of passion twists and goddess locs.

Often worn long in a thin-to-medium thickness, the loose curly ends and silky loc strands provide the signature finish.

Quick fact: Soft against the skin Leigh-Anne Pinnock

Ciara

Jaden

TAKE A CLOSER LOOK AT THE NEW URBAN LOCS AND REPLICATE YOUR FAVOURITE STYLES

Butterfly Locs Taking elements from the Distressed Loc with its tightly coiled construct, Butterfly Locs are famed for the ‘pipe cleaner style’ curl. The double strand twist can be unravelled to reveal a defined S-curl shape. For how-to tutorials, head over to YouTube.

Quick fact: Odourless and shed-free

Rihanna

Chloe x Halle

Badu Locs If you’re vying for something a little more bespoke, this new style of loc has a chunky structure and blunt ends.

Perfect for creating an instant bob effect (sans scissors) or a fashion-forward loc style, the grown-out root-effect is a firm favourite amongst fashion bloggers.

Quick fact: 100% Premium Syn Fibre

Rebel Kink Jumbo Locs A close match to Rastafarian dreadlocks, these thick locs came to fame in recent times thanks to Rihanna’s pineapple updo. The yarn twist and coarse flyaways are just some of the features that lend it a faux authenticity.

Quick fact: Can be installed using loop crocheting

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Distressed Locs A popular choice of strand for creating Goddess Locs, this ubiquitous dreadlock has become the holiday look of the decade. Defined by its long skinny length, budding Rapunzel’s will love that it starts from 20” inches. The wrap effect on the strand can look smooth or rough depending on the hair’s texture. Either way, it looks stunning!

Quick fact: Itch-free and anti-bacterial

SUBSCRIBE TODAY & GET FREE DELIVERY Stay connected and tune in to the latest news, views and trends in the world of hair and beauty. Head over to spellmagazine.co.uk and spellbeauty.com to purchase the annual subscription. *Only available for delivery in the UK

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Follow

Glossier

Forget applying endless layers of skincare every day. Those in the know are using fewer products while returning to a natural kind of beauty. Coined ‘skinimalism’, this new simplified approach to skincare means stripping back lengthy regimes to achieve a natural glow.

“Streamlining your routine is definitely the way forward,” confirms Wo Skincare founder Karen LeeThompson. “Skinimalism is all about cutting out unnecessary products and using only what your skin really needs.”

The skinimalism movement Let your natural beauty shine through with a new streamlined skincare regime #LessIsMore

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The movement has evolved from South Korea’s ‘skipcare’ trend, which began gaining momentum after its extreme multi-step routines got a little bit out of hand.

And after turning to athome beauty boosters during the pandemic for some indulgence and selfcare, skinimalism is just the tonic for our busy postlockdown lives.

Beauty and Seoul founder Maree Kinder is also an advocate, admitting that she’s never been a fan of the infamous 10-step K-beauty routine: “Realistically, no one has time to commit to that every day,” she says.

“I do like a longer pamper session on a Sunday evening though as I find it resets me for the week ahead.

Ultimately, it’s about understanding what works best for your skin and finding good quality products.”

BACK TO BASICS According to the experts, often all that’s needed to achieve great skin is a thorough cleanse, targeted serum, moisturiser and SPF. More than this and you could be doing more harm than good. “Using too many products at once with concentrated actives could tip the scales towards irritation rather than benefits,” says Lee-Thompson.

“When the skin’s natural barrier function is disrupted it becomes sensitive, red or flaky, which are the tell-tale signs that you’re overdoing it.”

This is especially true if your skin isn’t used to lots of products, says Kinder: “I think many people get excited by the thought of a new routine, buy a ton of new products and try them out immediately, which can overwhelm your skin.” All of this is in addition to the maskne and stress-related breakouts that have marred our faces for well over a year. It’s time to go back to basics.

WHERE TO START? “Healthy skin begins with a robust but gentle cleanse,” says Lee-Thompson.

“When the skin is free from dirt, sweat or impurities, it’s more receptive to the products applied afterwards.”

Investing in a serum is a great way to boost the results of any regime. “The one product to invest the most money into is a serum,” says Anne Marie Hughes, lead educator at Million Dollar Facial. “The correct serum for the correct skin condition is key. The right one will treat so many issues such as dryness, pigmentation, dehydration and fine lines.”

Sarah Zimmer, founder of skincare brand NAYA (nayaglow.com), agrees, adding: “I’d write a love poem to serums if I could. I’ve always loved serum – it’s the one product that can really make a difference. Think of it as a supplement for your skin.”

To complete your routine, a good moisturiser and SPF are essential: “No matter what condition your skin is in, a well-formulated moisturiser is a must as it helps bring it back to its natural balance,” adds Lee-Thompson.

If you’re wondering how it’s possible to achieve great results with such minimal products, the secret is to

invest in formulas that contain the most effective ingredients for your skin type. A specialist skin analysis is a worthy investment if you’re unsure about which camp your skin falls into.

However, if that’s out of your price range (some can be a big investment), there are plenty of online quizzes to help you on your way.

KNOWING YOUR SKIN As a general rule, those with normal skin can get away with using most skincare ingredients. So if you’re lucky enough to have balanced skin, you can choose products that will enhance your natural glow, such as vitamin C. Those with an oily complexion should focus on gentle and hydrating products such as glycolic acid cleansers, serums with hyaluronic acid and oil-free moisturisers. Dry skin types, meanwhile, can enlist humectants and occlusives to help retain moisture.

Lastly, if your skin is sensitive, calming ingredients such as aloe vera, shea butter and squalane are a must.

Of course, your skin can be a combination of the above, so it’s important to remember that one size doesn’t necessary fit all: “My advice is to try and understand your own unique skin and what works best for it,” says Kinder. “I will always introduce one new product at a time to my routine when testing anything out.” Zimmer agrees, adding: “I always tell our customers to patch test and recommend applying samples beforehand to help understand what works or what doesn’t. The key is to be patient: the skin takes 28 days to go through a cycle and it drums to its own beat.”

And even when you’ve found a routine that works, you’ll need to keep a close eye on your skin in case of changes and switch things up if necessary: “As our skin is always changing, we all have our own different needs,” says Thompson-Lee. “So ensure you adapt your routine to what your skin needs rather than just adding in more products.” The bottom line is that it will take some trial and error to decipher your skin’s unique needs. But once you do, the experts agree that there’s no need to waste time and money using myriad products. “Above all, look at that ingredient list and start to learn what works for your skin and what doesn’t,” Zimmer concludes.

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Roadmap to better skin Glossier Super Glow, £24

Normal:

ceramides, retinol, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, green tea

Philosophy Purity One-Step Cleanser, £22

Oily:

glycolic acid, salicylic acid, BHAs, niacinamide, beta glucan and hyaluronic acid

Olay Perfecting Serum, £9.99

Dry:

lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, shea butterhyaluronic acid

The Ordinary Plant-Derived Squalane, £5.50

Sensitive:

squalane, camomile extract, yeast extracts, shea butter, calendula, vitamin E

THE BEST SALONS FOR… Protective styles that can take days if you don’t book with a professional

Faux Locs

My Hair Bar There’s nothing My Hair Bar can’t do when it comes to installing extensions. With team members being certified celebrity hairstylists, this west London boutique is the crème de le crème in hairdressing. If you like a menu with options you’ll be spoilt for choice here as you can discuss with the stylist the best installation method for you and order hair in advance so its ready for your next appointment. @myhairbarlondon

Braiding

New York Hair Design If you want to brag to your friends that your single plaits were done by the fastest braider in the world, then head down to New York Hair Design. Salon owner Aycan Kemal not only holds the Guinness Book of Records title since 2011; she’s a multi award-winning stylist too.

The quaint salon in North London is easy to get to and is open seven days a week.

There are braid services for kids and adults, which means you can do the school run and still make it home in time for tea. @nyhairdesign

BEST BUY

X-pression Ruwa £4.49 These presectioned bundles of joy are a beginner braider’s bestfriend

BEST BUY

Urban Locs from £5.99 Hate synthetic hair that scratches against the skin? This offers a softer, featherweight, and more natural look

Crocheting

Be Crochet Creation Taking the crochet art form to new levels is the mobile stylist Rebecca Emmanuel who goes by the alias becrochetcreation. The crochet braid expert has a dab hand at creating all finishes from box fresh braids to waistskimming water waves. Scroll through the insta page to see how natural-looking and authentic the styles are, but best of all watch the pro live in action. @becrochetcreation BEST BUY

African Collection Jamaican Bounce £5.99 Achieve long-lasting curls without having to spring for pricey human hair SPELL

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Set your own trends What’s new, exclusive and iconic.

Discover our curated digital hair and beauty boutique today.

Biocare Labs

The Feme Collection V

Swiss X

Lace Wig Gloss Waves

Design Essentials

Baby Tress Edge Styler

SPELLBEAUTY.COM SpellBeautyUk

Urban Locs Infinity Locs

Flora & Curl

spell loves FEED YOUR INNER PRODUCT JUNKIE From next-gen beauty buys to animal-friendly shampoo, here are the must-have products on our radar this month

Afronani Cherry Blossom Hair Comb, £10.99

FORGET ME KNOTS

A decent comb is a worthy investment. The everyday tool may come over a bit old-school but there are cooler designs on the rise. Afronani’s Cherry Blossom Hair Comb doesn’t just look good: its wide-tooth design is gentle on hair strands and scalps while being easy to clean, too. Every curly girl needs a widetooth comb and Flora & Curl’s Gentle Curl Comb makes detangling a breeze thanks to its spacious teeth. If breakage is a concern, Manta’s Healthy Hair Brush features a patented Flexguard base so each bristle can turn a full 360-degrees, minimising stress on your locks. Clever.

Flora & Curl Gentle Curl Comb, £6

Manta Healthy Hair Brush, £25

INSTA LOVE

Pics & captions we’ve liked on the ‘gram this month

@pekelariley Caption: “Baby I gave this #mannequin aka ‘Manny Monae’ some real love. (Well actually I made it with a wig.)”

@viviennewestwood Caption: “We express ourselves through clothes when we dress up. For us, fashion makes the World go round.” #AKVWAW21

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@heycarra Caption: “Did you know that sebum is your very own tailored and personalised conditioner?”

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@ulovemegs Caption: “Lol so this was one of my pandemic excitements for the day! You know a little cookie activity lol. It’s just for decoration lol!

THE FUTURE’S NOW

KEYS Soulcare Radiant Eye Cream, £28

These are not another run-of-the-mill beauty launch. Oh no, this is the future and it starts on your dressing table.

Laura Mercier has introduced a luminous version of its cult Translucent Setting Powder, offering a 12-hour filter-finish with no photo flashback - the real definition of #nofilter. Glow Hub’s new next-gen acid serums and Keys Radiant Eye Cream work like pricey skin lifting lotions and potions minus the harsh ingredients. And finally, Airfro Run’s Conditioning Hair Balm Stick is one of the first brands for afro hair taking a nod to eco-packaging. What’s the saying... The future’s bright?

LAURA MERCIER Light Catcher Setting Powder, £33.50

GLOW HUB Hydration Hero, £14

AIRFRO Run, £10.95

DIRTY DOGS

Animal lovers, rejoice: Faith In Nature has created a range of doggy shampoos with natural formulas that are just as kind to the planet as its versions for humans. Choose from three types, depending on your furry companion’s hair dilemmas, including Detangling, Gentle and Deep Cleansing (from £5.79). Alternatively, try Dr Bonner’s Pure-Castile Liquid Soap, £12.75, which can be used on your own hands and body too.

Dr. Bronner’s

Faith in Nature

FOREIGN EXCHANGE

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Whether you wear workout gear to dash to the shops or to, erm, actually workout, swap your usual labels for something foreign (quite literally). The black owned activewear line called Le’Foreign launched earlier this year is being seen in all the right places, including NYFW. Ready to hit the UK streets, shop the latest collection from the official website.

LET’S TALK ABOUT SEX Oloni

Sex expert Oloni’s is taking her agony aunt advice – and huge internet fanbase – to a new red-hot Netflix series out now

MORE SEX, PLEASE The announcement of the show is more proof that Netflix is changing the way sex based shows are viewed.

This is thanks to its brilliant comedy Sex Education, which has just released a new third season, as well as racy drama Sex/Life, which has been commissioned for a second series.

Sex: Unzipped features, alongside Oloni, a star-studded line-up, led

by US rapper Saweetie. In huge demand, she was recently named the face of MAC and joined forces with McDonalds, no less. Also on the show’s roster of special guests are London Hughes, Romesh Ranganathan, Kathryn Ryan. The show is said to be

Sex: Unzipped is the next in Netflix’s series of sex-based programmes – and this one comes with added spice: our very own Oloni. A sex and relationships expert – called “the agony aunt for the influencer age” by the BBC – she’s joined as an expert on the new show. If you’ve ever read (or joined in with) Oloni’s famous conversations on social media, using her trademark opener ‘Ladies, shall we have some fun?’ you’ll already be pumped to hear about her exciting move into TV stardom. She has a brilliant knack of eliciting the sauciest, most intimate responses from followers about their personal encounters and experiences.

So what can we expect?

a comedy aiming to bring a dose of “sex positivity” while also helping to “address the biggest misconceptions surrounding sex & identity”, say Netflix.

CHANGING THE CULTURE The show is the latest development in Oloni’s career. A big champion of women’s sexual rights, she runs Simply Oloni, a platform for sex and relationship features, as well as being co-host of podcast Laid Bare, where the British-Nigerian serves as the resident agony aunt, listening and helping to solve her listeners’ relationship dilemmas.

She cites her work experience at Cosmopolitan as the jumping off point SPELL

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for her career as a sexual expert. She told the Huffington Post in 2019: “I felt the culture of dating and hook-up culture for a black woman and a white woman were different. Black women were being quiet about sex but it didn’t mean we weren’t having it.”

In 2015 she began her own blog and started receiving emails and messages asking for her advice. It didn’t matter that she didn’t have formal qualifications, her influence and network expanded – and hasn’t stopped. Now Oloni has a huge following, yet an intimate one, where fans share their most personal secrets.

Available on Netflix

FEELING

myself

Fur

Today, we’re enlightened about sex more than ever, so much so, beauty regimes have expanded to encompass self-love and sexual wellness. Shop the brands taking a sexually inclusive approach.

Level-up your self-care regime with WooWoo’s vegan and cruelty-free feminine hygiene range. With packaging you can proudly display, they have everything you need to care for the nether regions.

From £3.75

Woo Woo

Smile Makers

Made with natural and non-toxic ingredients, Fur’s hard-working range for up-top, down there and everywhere in between hydrates, softens and eradicates ingrown hairs.

From £28

Suzanna K

Westlab

Think vibrators are tasteless? Think again. Breaking taboos with their empowering, discreet and femalefocused products, Smile Makers are on a mission to bring sexual pleasure out in the open.

From £12.95 Lights off, candles lit. Suzanna K sensuous candles elevate your intimate experiences. Available in a range of unique, non-binary scents, prepare to make celebrating your identity a fulfiling daily ritual.

From £28 There’s no need to rush getting in the mood. A few sprinkles of Westlab Recover Bath Salts will set the pace for mindful relaxation and one-on-one time.

From £7.99 From the award-winning kegel trainer to the world’s first smart breast pump, Elvie is bringing femtech out of the dark ages. Think: smart, sleek and hassle-free wearables.

From £169

Elvie

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The

SpellBeauty.com

SPELL-OMETER What’s hot and what’s not in the world of Spell

BULLETIN

Launches, promos and discounts you don’t want to miss

HOT

Urban Locs Butterfly Locs

@roffy_babs

@lythegoodtree

NOT

TAPED UP This eyeliner ‘hack’ is another TikTok trend that takes more time than it saves.

IT’S BACK The highly anticipated third season of You hits our screens on 15 October.

@zendaya

FRESH OUT Poor weather and supply chain issues may spell a pumpkin shortage for keen Halloweeners!

Thanks to the naturallooking and low maintenance nature of the hairstyle, Urban Twist Passion Twist has been a firm favourite on Spell Beuty. Now with with 30% off for a limited time only, it’s not too late to get on board with the trend. Each strand is water repellant and lightweight, making it easy to style and care for. Available in 11 natural shades too, it’s time to add a little twist to your style.

Off-White x Ginori

BLONDE MOMENT

HERE’S THE TEA Off-White has launched a tea set with Ginori 1735 - but we’re not here for the $720 price tag.

With Queen Bey turning 40 this September her honeyed locks are embedded in our minds. Follow suit with Goddess Remi Silky.

Made with 100% remi human hair, these extensions offer a ready-towear blonde that doesn’t require dyeing. Featuring a reinforced weft to prevent shedding, it can be installed in multiple ways too.

Prices from £47.60.

@esthermukundgi

@younetflix

BUTTON UP AW21’s cult piece is the Jacquemus La maille Pralù cropped cardigan, from £225

Flutter your way to gorgeous faux Butterfly Locs with the new Urban Locs range! A perfect mix of goddess and passion twists, the deep wave loc has been trending on the socials all year! Snap up the look today or explore other textures (turn to page 14 for the full selection), to nail the look you want. Each style is made with 100% itch-free and anti-bacteria Premium Syn Fibre. Prices start from £5.99 per pack.

DO THE TWIST

Pinterest

BRIGHT EYES White liner sales are up! We love this avant garde take by @lythegoodtree.

GOT BUTTERFLIES

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LITTLECK BLA BOOK

SH O P DU CTS TH E PR O FE AT U RE D

IN TH IS M O N TH ’S IS SU E

B E AU T Y

ANITA GRANT anitagrant.com BEN NYE bennye.com DW AESTHETICS dwaesthetics.com FUR cultbeauty.co.uk GLOSSIER glossier.com GLOW HUB mintgreen.store HOLLAND & BARRETT

hollandandbarrett.com KEYS Harrods.com LAURA MERCIER spacenk.com LIHA lihabeauty.com MAKEUP REVOLUTION

revolutionbeauty.com OLAY boots.com PHILOSOPHY philosophyskincare.co.uk SHRINE weareshrine.com THE ORDINARY cultbeauty.co.uk WESTLAB westlabsalts.co.uk

HAIR

AFRICAN COLLECTION spellbeauty.com AFROANI afroanishop.com AFROCHENIX afrochenix.com AIRFRO myairfro.com BIG BEAUTIFUL HAIR spellbeauty.com CANTU superdrug.com DESIGN ESSENTIALS spellbeauty.com DIONNE SMITH SIGNATURE

signaturebydionnesmith.com DR BRONNER spellbeauty.com EQUI BOTANICS equibotanics.com FAITH IN NATURE faithinnature.co.uk FLORA AND CURL floracurl.co.uk GODDESS REMI spellbeauty.com MANTA mantahair.com ORS OLIVE OIL spellbeauty.com RADSWAN radswan.com URBAN LOCS spellbeauty.com URBAN TWIST spellbeauty.com WOW OILS spellbeauty.com X-PRESSION RUWA spellbeauty.com

E X T R AS

CROCS crocs.co.uk ELVIE feeunique.com FLO lookfantastic.com GROWN: THE BLACK GIRLS’ GUIDE TO GLOWING UP waterstones.com LE’FOREIGN leforeigns.com NEW BALANCE newbalance.co.uk NUBIAN SKIN nubianskin.com PANDORA pandora.net PRINT BY CHINAKWE chinakwe.com STREET GREETS streetgreets.co.uk SUZANNA K suzannak.com WOO WOO feeunique.com COVER CREDITS Photography Zek Snaps Hair Pashcanel Mitchell Make-up Natasha Wright Styling Mariamu Fundi Assisted by Ellie Ford and OJ Adensanya

WHERE TO FIND SPELL SALONS

AFROTHERAPY 235 Fore Street, London, N18 2TZ, 020 8345 5621 APRIL HAIR SALON 5 Bull Street, Burnley, BB11 1DW, 01282 839 726 CHOP CHOP LONDON 60 Charlotte Rd, London EC2A 3QT; 020 3488 1492 COBELLA 5 Kensington High Street, London, W8 5NP, 020 7118 1277 DKUK 191 Queen's Road, Peckham, London, SE15 2NG, 020 3609 0920 ELITE HAIR LOUNGE 24 Sidney Road, London, SW9 0TS, 020 7207 5904 GEORGE KOSIT HAIR 10-12 Bristol Street, Birmingham, B5 7AA, 0121 622 6782 HAIR 305 305 Brompton Road, London, SW3 2DY, 020 7118 1277 HYPE COIFFURE 186 Lavender Hill, Battersea, London, SW11 5TQ, 020 7223 3800 JUNIOR GREEN LONDON 55 Kensington Church Street, London, W8 4BA, 020 7752 0620 LATHANIEL’S COUTURE 196 Coldharbour Lane, London, SE5 9QH, 020 3601 0683 MIMI ET MINA 16 Needham Road, London, W11 2RP, 020 7727 9356 MY HAIR BAR 22 Warren Street, London, W1T 5LU, 020 7380 0188 NEW YORK HAIR DESIGN 2 Langham Parade, London, N15 3ND, 020 8888 3397 NICKY OLIVER HAIRDRESSING 32 Oldham Street, Manchester, M1 1JN, 0161 241 0380 PECKHAM PALMS Peckham Palm Arcade, Unit 1-14 Bournemouth Close, Peckham Rye, London, SE15 4PB, 020 7062 2000 PURELY NATURAL 119 The Grove, London, E15 1EN, 020 8221 0122 RCNQ 10 Hilton Steet, Manchester M1 1JF; 0161 222 0200 SIMPLY GORGEOUS 79 Kingsgate Road, Kilburn, London, NW6 4JY, 020 7625 4500 THE CURL BAR 210 Middle Lane, Hornsey, London, N8 7LA, 020 3667 7204 THE HAIR SANCTUARY 166 Cross Street, Sale, Manchester M33 7AQ; 0161 536 1249 THINK PRETTY 301 High Road Leytonstone, London, E11 4HH, 020 7232 5168

SHOPS

NORTH LONDON EDMONTON HAIR & COSMETICS LIMITED 257-159 Fore Street, Edmonton, N18 2TY, 0208 887 6158 HAIRITAGE 1 Queens Parade, Walm Lane NW2 5HT, 020 3417 4844 PAK’S HAIR BOUTIQUE 25 Stroud Green Road, Stroud Green, N4 3EF, 0207 263 2331 PAK’S HAIR & COSMETICS HARLESDEN 5 ­ 7 Craven Park Road, Harlesden, NW10, 8SH, 0208 963 1730 EAST LONDON BEAUTY QUEEN COSMETICS­Unit 19, 70-73 The Mall, The Stratford Centre, Stratford, E15 1XQ, 0208 534 8786 JUDITH'S HAIR & BEAUTY Barking Rd, London E13 8HJ, 07949 818778 PAK COSMETICS 212 Heathway, Dagenham, Greater London RM10 9NS, 0208 592 9108 QUEENS COSMETICS 3 ­ 91 Green St, Upton Park, E13 9AU, 0208 471 1699 SUPERGROWS COSMETICS 2 ­ 4-25 Queens Market, Upton Park, E13 9BA, 0208 552 9886

YOUR HAIR & BEAUTY S ­ tratford Centre, 20 Broadway, E15 4QS, 0208 555 0946 SOUTH LONDON PAK’S HAIR CENTRE 141 Rye Lane, Peckham, SE15 4ST, 0207 732 2822 PECKHAM LEVELS F1-F6 Peckham Town Centre Carpark, 95A Rye Lane, London SE15 4ST SABINA HAIR & COSMETICS 68-70 Rye Lane, Peckham, SE15 5BY, 0207 469 7356 SABINA 6 ­ 9 Mitcham Road, Tooting Broadway, SW17 9PB, 0208 682 0055 SABINA 6B Greens End, Woolwich, SE18 6HX, 0208 855 5266 YOUR HAIR & BEAUTY 37 Lewis Grove, Lewisham, SE13 6BG, 0208 318 0999 NORTH WEST ENGLAND PAUL’S HAIR WORLD 53 Barbirolli Way, Arndale Centre, Manchester, M4 2HU, 0161 839 0708 PAUL’S HAIR WORLD 29-30 Oldham Street, Manchester, M1 1JG, 0161 834 6498 RAPUNZELS HAIR CITY 315 Smithdown Road, Liverpool, Merseyside, L15 0EB, 0151 733 4333 LIVERPOOL HAIR & COSMETICS 31 Dawson Way, St Johns Shopping Centre, Liverpool, Merseyside, L1 1LY, 0151 708 0699 YORKSHIRE & THE HUMBER CC HAIR & BEAUTY 256-258 Roundhay Road, Leeds, West Yorkshire, LS8 5RL, 0113 249 5562 and Unit 2 & 3 Leeming House, Vicar Lane, Leeds, LS1 6BY, 07709 836 498 BRITS HAIR & BEAUTY 30 Kirkgate, Bradford, West Yorkshire, BD1 1QL, 01274 733 287 PRISSY'S 6 Saint James Road, Halifax, West Yorkshire, HX1 1YS, 01422 345 482 CC HAIR & BEAUTY 119-129 Chapeltown Road, Leeds, West Yorkshire, LS7 3DU, 0113 262 3728 TALKING HEADS 51-57 St Sepulchre Gate, Doncaster, DN1 1UB, 01302 328 720 WEST MIDLANDS TZ ENTERPRISES 40 Queen Street, Wolverhampton, West Midlands, WV1 3JW, 01902 574 920 EAST ANGLIA BEAUTY BY ZARA Grays, Essex, RM17 6QJ, 01375 376 050 SOUTH EAST ENGLAND MIA HAIR & BEAUTY 41 Mill Street Luton, LU1 2NA, 01582 727 878 ABV HAIR & BEAUTY STORE 79 Lowfield Street, Dartford, Kent, DA1, 01322 276 003 BISMI COSMETICS 7 Farthing Grove, Netherfield, Milton Keynes, MK6 4HH, 01908 393 144 MAADE HAIR & BEAUTY 4 Rhode Street, ME4 4AL, 01634924102 QUEEN MALAIKA 29 Kingston Road, Portsmouth, PO2 7DP, 02392862044 SCOTLAND ELEORA LTD 94 King Street, Aberdeen, AB24 5BA, 0122 446 7896 SINE HAIR & BEAUTY 196 Hope Street, Glasgow G2 2UG, 0141 237 4556 LUSH HAIR Unit 38-41 Inshop Paisley Centre, High St., Paisley, Glasgow, 0141 887 7025

VIRGIN REMI

VELVET VIBES Hair that gives off the right energy.

Easy to dye, tone and bleach – The Feme Collection V™ Virgin Remi hair at its purest.

Exclusively distributed by Feme Ltd | feme.com