Viral hairstylist Nneke Allision talks a bout black hair in the Nineties
38 Taking action against hair discrimination
L’myah Sherae founder of Enact
Equality is on a mission for change
42 Don’t fumble the bundle
First look at The Feme Collection Syn Weave
Jemima Cousins
Rob Wheele
11 Find your fashion flex
38 Taking action against hair discrimination
26 Spell loves
20 Silver lining
34 It's a Nineties thang
04 Scoop
SCOOP
O SO CURLY
Inventor and content creator Shannon Fitzsimmons reflects on the realities of being a self-made entrepreneur
Interview
How to master wash days and foster self-belief in the harsh world of business
O So Curly began with a satin-lined beanie. I remember it like it was yesterday. The idea for the brand came to me at the end of January 2014 and it took 10 months to officially launch. My first order came through Christmas day, and it felt like the best gift ever. From an early age I’ve had an entrepreneurial spirit. In primary school I was one of the only kids with a computer and printer at home. I would take song lyric requests in the playground for 20p and print them. I must have been eight or nine at the time.
Entrepreneurship is not for the weak! For me, what has made a big impact is fostering self-belief. I’ve had to dive deep into selfdevelopment and my faith to build my selfconfidence in business and learning to not fall into the comparison trap. I’ve had my fair share of companies take my ideas, but I had to come to the realisation that they
can copy but they will never do things how I do them because there is only one me!
Being a content creator and business owner has its challenges. I have developed a routine where I focus on O So Curly for a season and then create content for my hair and business channel. Trying to do the two at the same time is a fasttrack to burnout.
I have a YouTube channel with hundreds of videos about starting a business, marketing, shipping and more. Like with my online hair journey it’s from my own challenges and experiences.
My hair journey has developed so much since I started out. Wash days at the beginning of my transition took most of the day to complete, whereas now, I can wash and style my hair within an hour. It’s become second nature and using my brand’s satin accessories help
to make maintenance in-between washes quick and easy. I just spritz my hair with water and add a moisturiser when needed. Growing up I really wanted straight or loose curls because I felt like my hair was an inconvenience. It took so long to style and maintain – it was an absolute chore. I never want the younger generation to feel that way so anything I can do to help make the natural hair journey easier I try to make it happen.
One thing I've noticed running a haircare company is that as a community we’re becoming more woke with what we use and who we support. Gen Z and millennials really care about who’s behind the brands they’re using. This has pushed me to start sharing my story more with behind-the-scenes content so customers can really resonate and trust my good intentions behind every product we launch.
O So Curly Satin Scrunchie, £6
Spell Editor says...
Are you a trend follower or trendsetter? Don’t worry, it’s not a trick question. This issue we dabble in a bit of both. Spring brings a swarm of freshness so in the realm of fashion there’s a ton of newness you may or may not like. Turn to page 11 to Find your fashion fix? Here you'll find inspo on how you can make the hot-right-now looks work for you.
We had so much fun working with Olympic medallist Desirèe Henry who puts the record straight on self-discipline, the taboo on menstruation in elite sport and how black female athletes CHOOSE to wear their hair – which supports the feature The fight against hair discrimination, page 38. Happy reading!
Jemima Cousins, Editor @j.coenterprise
Bulletin
Don't get left behind... Stay in the loop!
Fix up look sharp: Suits & ties are back
Since the pandemic, dress down days have become woven into the tapestry of everyday fashion. Take the humble coord tracksuit, it’s fitting for the school run and office. But now the scale has tipped, and we’re back to sharp suits and ties. At her AW25 presentation, the one-to-watch designer Tolu Coker delivered a masterclass in tailoring, blending sharp European cuts with rich diasporic influences.
Beauty brands unite for gynae health
Fresh face... Barry M's image shake up
Barry M, the legendary make-up line born from the punk spirit of ’80s East London has undergone a rebrand. “We’ve always championed boldness and individuality,” says MD Dean Mero, son of founder Barry Mero. “Now, we’re taking that even further – raw, real, and unapologetic.” Expect behind-thescenes content, gritty model shots, and a beauty aesthetic that’s less ‘perfectly posed’ and more ‘caught in the moment’.
This month gynae health pips the top of the agenda with the help of The Eve Appeal’s Get Lippy campaign. With shockingly low awareness of the five gynaecological cancers (only 3% of people can name them all!), this campaign is here to break the silence and get the conversation started. Throughout May, beauty heavyweights like Elemis and Rimmel are donating 10% of sales from selected products to support The Eve Appeal’s vital work. Ateh Jewel, Spell Magazine beauty contributor is also lending her voice to spread awareness.
TheBlackManCan
With over 1.1 million followers, this account centres inspirational role models for black boys and young men. Not just an Instagram page, TheBlackManCan also carries out vital not-for-profit work, including a mentorship programme spanning the USA’s east coast and beyond. However, it’s also their lighthearted memes that keep us smiling from across the pond. Following the fallout of Netflix’s Adolescence, this is the kind of uplifting content we need to see!
Danielle ‘Ebonix’ Udogaranya
If The Sims had an expansion pack for real-world impact, Danielle ‘Ebonix’ Udogaranya would be the star. Since 2015, she’s been crafting custom content that brings quintessential black hairstyles – braids, afros and twists– into the game, making virtual worlds more inclusive. Follow for new CC drops, behindthe-scenes glimpses of her digital artistry, and her ongoing mission to shake up the gaming industry.
Adessy
Need a daily dose of real talk? Adessy is the internet’s best friend, here to help you navigate fear, self-doubt, and the art of romanticising the small joys in life. Pondering on topics like Are We Turning Our Lives Into A Reality Show, her content feels like chatting with a mate who just gets it, so hit follow for feel-good vibes and thoughtful conversations that’ll make you see life’s ups and downs in a whole new way.
WHO to follow
AFIMI
When an Olympic legend like ShellyAnn Fraser-Pryce launches a haircare brand, you know it’s going to be elite. AFIMI (a play on Jamaican patois meaning It's For Me) is a luxurious eight-step haircare line inspired by Jamaica, designed to keep textured hair healthy and hydrated. Expect island vibes, haircare wisdom, and proof that even the fastest woman in the world slows down for self-care.
Zen.to.paper
Diversity in children’s books is long overdue, and Zenovia Grant is making sure it happens. Following the success of her self-published book Taye’s Hairy Adventure, she’s expanding her portfolio with stunning book covers and exhibitions. She told us: "Remember that reading doesn’t need to be a chore – always make it fun and always keep the child at the centre of their learning."
Gina Obeng
Resistance bands, music and serious glute burn – Gina Obeng knows how to turn a workout into a full-on event. The Gymshark athlete and founder of Beats and Bands started out teaching banded workouts from her living room, and now she’s hosting sell-out sessions (one even featured Azealia Banks!). Follow for gym memes, workout motivation, and ticket drops to her next high-energy fitness party.
EVERYTHING YOU NEED for boho braids
Get the look according to the experts
Stylist: Do you want knotless water wave braids or crotchet deep curls? Decisions, decisions.
The uptake in boho braids has been pretty and phenomenal. The vast selection of curl patterns, colour combos and installation methods are not only morish, but it also means no look is the same. When it comes to landing your perfect boho style “it requires a bit of know-how,” says celebrity braid specialist Molecia Seasay. So where do you start?
According to Spell Beauty brand ambassador Aisha Ibrahim human hair is the way to go “for style longevity” but there are alternatives. “With the right care human hair will not tangle or matte and can last between six to eight weeks. If you’re partial to synthetic hair you can detangle and reset the curl with a leave-in conditioning spray or foam mousse,” advises Ibrahim.
Knotless braids have become the signature look for boho braids. Defined by crisp partings, silky shine and swooping baby hairs, achieve this flawless effect with a non-alcohol gel formulated with quality ingredients. “Just because your hair is tucked away in a protective style, it doesn’t mean you should get lazy about the products used to maintain it,” says celebrity stylist and boho braid expert May Jayema. “Styling and prepping your natural hair with moisture orientated products will prevent dryness and ward off breakage.”
Scalp care is paramount too. Apply a scalptargeting serum or oil to alleviate flakes and lessen tension on the hair follicles. This can be done as part of your weekly refresh or when needed. To keep your boho braids flowy and glossy round the clock, before you shower or go to bed, wrap them in a satin or silk lined scarf. This will control frizz levels, but if you choose can be a part of the aesthetic.
BOHO BEAUTY SPRAY & SLAY LOCKED IN
EMPIRE BULK
Deep Bulk, from £25.99
Bond Healing Leave-in Spray, £15.50
BEST FOR HUMAN HAIR BEST FOR CROCHET INSTALL BEST FOR SINGLE P LAITS
SHEA MOISTURE
Strong Hold Styling Gel, £12.99
FRIZZ-FREE SLICK BACK
CROCHET COOL
URBAN Bermuda Box Braid, from £6.49
ROOT REVIVAL
KERASILK Redensifying Scalp Serum, £36
FRESH FIX
MANE EVENT
RUWA
Pre-Stretched Braid, from £4.49
UBERLISS
CANTU
Satin Lined Shower Cap, £10.50
BABY TRESS 3-in-1 Tool, £7.99
flex
From key wardrobe updates to glowing skin and renewed hairspiration, here’s everything you need to hit refresh on your look for the spring/summer season
BALLETCORE REVIVAL
You don’t have to brave a barre class to ooze the minimalist chic of a ballerina (although, kudos to you if you do). The SS25 catwalks were awash with Nutcracker-worthy looks, from 16 Arlington’s sleek buns and body-skimming silhouettes, to more overt ballet references, such as Simone Rocha’s avant garde tutus. Short of walking into the office en pointe, this trend is easy to emulate with soft pastels, satin pumps and neatly-laid edges. Think Misty Copeland meets off-duty model.
Charlie Wheelerfor 16 Arlington
Deborah Ion for Yuhan Wang
Midi Skirt, RIVER ISLAND, £46
Thong Bodysuit, SKIMS, £70 Ballet Flats, OLIVER BONAS, £125
Glued 4 Brows & Edges, GOT2B, £5.85
OFF-KILTER
Forget perfect symmetry – this season is all about the unexpected. Designers like Nensi Dojaka and Labrum sent artfully unbalanced silhouettes down the runway, from slashed hemlines to asymmetrical necklines that feel effortlessly cool. The look isn’t just for clothing either – think mismatched earrings, side-swept hairstyles and offbeat layering that can extend to your skincare routine. The key? Embracing imbalance. If it feels wrong, it’s probably right.
Charlie Wheeler for Labrum
Sophie Holden for Karoline
Charlie Wheeler for Nensi
Dojaka
Dress, H&M, £12.99
Trousers, MANIÈRE DE VOIR , £109.99
Top, NEXT, £28
Earrings, PRYA , £30
Skin Renewal Serum, GROWN ALCHEMIST, £58
DRAW THE LINE
Stripes are getting a bold new makeover, and the only rule is that there are none. At Sinead Gorey, 2006-era pop-punk stripes made a comeback, while Jingdong presented preppy horizontals paired with ‘old money’ trenches and tweed co-ords. Whether you’re mixing widths, directions, or colours, more is more. Lean into the trend with unexpected pairings, because classic stripes are just the beginning.
Euro Straight HH, PREMIUM NOW, from £21.99
Candy Stripe
Detangling Spray, R+CO, £25 Hat, CLAUDIE PIERLOT, £109
Trousers, TU, £18
Trainers, MONSOON , £55
Simran Kaur for Sinead Gorey Cris Fragkou for Nensi Dojaka
Necklace, WOLF & BADGER , £35 4TH & RECKLESS, £40
SAY IT LOUD
Statement tees are far from a fleeting trend, and 2025 is keeping the conversation going. Sassy slogans, political statements and tongue-incheek phrases took over the runways, from Chopova Lowena’s streetwise energy to Ashish’s knitted affirmations. The best part? There’s a slogan for every mood. Style yours with sharp tailoring or laid-back denim – either way, let your clothes and accessories do the talking.
Hair Grips, UMBERTO GIANNINI , £10
Shopping Bag, THE FEME COLLECTION , Free in selected stores
@by.regiina wearing Willy Chavarria
Sophie Holde for Chopova
CrazySexyCurl Honey Setting Foam, THE DOUX , £15.99
THE NEW NEUTRAL
Move over, beige – ‘Mocha Mousse’ is the shade of the season. This rich, warming brown dominated the SS25 collections, with designers like Tolu Coker and Masha Popova proving that neutrals don’t have to be boring. Whether you opt for a silky slip dress, dark-to-rich-brown ombre hair extensions, or a bronzed make-up moment, this hue brings understated luxury with a side of espresso-toned dimension.
Velvet Fit Lipstick Refill in Baranagomi, SUQQU, £30
The Feme Collection 2-in-1 Premium Synthetic
The Feme Collection Ponytail (New Styles)
The Feme Collection Half Wig
The Feme Collection 2-in-1 100% Human Hair
The Feme Collection SYN Weave
Sensationnel Bare Lace Wig
Olympic silver medallist Desirèe Henry sets the record straight on self-discipline, the taboo surrounding menstruation in elite sport and how black female athletes CHOOSE to wear their hair. Interview with Spell Magazine editor Jemima Cousins
Photography by Desmond Murray y Hair by Aycan Kemal using Feme
Wig and Sensationnel Bare Lace
Make-up by Natasha Wright
Styling by Simone Sylvester
Assisted by Noëlle Dobra
Art directing by Jemima Cousins
It’s a bright Spring morning when British Olympic silver medallist Desirèe Henry enters Spell Magazine’s HQ. She’s been up from 6am to make the call time for her debut cover shoot. For someone who had a four-hour training session the day before with head coach and 1992 Olympic Champion Linford Christie OBE, she’s raring to go. “I always say start with the intention to
having a good day,” she beams with twinkling eyes as she takes a seat in the salon chair ready for glam.
The order of the day is to show a side of Henry the world hasn’t seen. A customised 30-inch burgundy wig isn’t her usually steez but she’s willing to play muse today. “I fell in love with the mood board the moment I saw it. I’m all for try new looks.” Currently
she’s training for the World Relay Championships so her OOTD is an allblack matching gym set. “I try to make an effort with my outfits for training. Sometimes I coordinate tracksuits, and I do notice the positive impact it has on how I feel. I don’t work in an office, and it’s crazy, there are times I wish I did because I’d get the chance to dress up more. Gym gear is my uniform, so I gotta make it work.”
Stylist’s Own; Sunglasses:
For Henry, looking good and feeling good applies to race days too when confidence is key. “For the 2024 Games I laid out my clothes out the day before. I coordinated my socks with my hair bow. My nails had hints of lilac to match the purple running track. Honestly, it was a whole thought out process.”
Henry was part of Team GBs 4x100m relay squad at the Paris 2024 Summer Olympics. This was her second appearance at the Games. With reports of five billion people tuning in, that’s approximately half of the world’s population, how does a 29-year-old woman from north London Edmonton deal with the pressure? The answer: Embrace it. “There was a real possibility that I wouldn’t make the team because the UK has so many great female sprinters. But I knew how hard I worked and all the preparation I put in. This was a real earned moment for me, it was not given. And so, I embraced every moment like it was my last.”
Her positive outlook is admirable and contagious and takes our conversation to offshoot topics like hashtag Monday motivation – “Take continuous small itty-bitty steps and you’ll get closer to achieving your goals”. Her thoughts on the viral ‘morning routine’ trend: “Yeah, if you have time to do half the stuff people are posting that’s great. But if not, take 30 seconds to breath, meditate, reflect and get going with the day.”
Same goes for discipline: “There’s no hard or fast rule. You just have to consistently show up. I’m not a robot, and yeah there are times I don’t feel like training, but the days I might be lagging all add up to the final result. And that goes for a lot of things in life. Rather than trying to jump to the end goal, focus on the small everyday actions.”
Being of Caribbean descent (Antiguan and Guyanese), Henry proudly attributes her drive to succeed with her upbringing. She is
Hair: Sensationnel Bare
Lace Gluless
Lace
Wig Unit
1 in colour
Secret
Highlight Ginger.
Styling: Wealthy
Boys Club Embellished Shirt; Grace
Weller
Jeans; Shoes –Models Own; Jewellery: Oliver Bonas
See page 21 for credits
the youngest of three sisters, and with a joyous smile, reflects on how this gave her an advantage to pursue her dreams: “I was able to watch my siblings make good and bad choices and see how the consequences played out with my parents. They were strict but when it came to me, they were a bit more laidback, maybe because I was the youngest. This allowed me to not have so much pressure and helped me navigate my own path. My sisters went down the academic route of going to university, and have gone on to achieve amazing things, but I knew athletics was my calling.”
Luckily, Henry’s parents had a positively laissez-faire attitude towards a career in sprinting which was another advantage. “I’m very grateful to them as they did not hold me back. When I speak to my teammates from other cultural backgrounds like Africa and even the UK, their parents’ attitude was very different. For them, sport wasn’t a reliable career choice, so this made me more disciplined to show my parents how much I wanted this.”
“I’M SO PROUD OF HOW WE WEAR OUR HAIR. IT’S OUR SELFEXPRESSION OF HOW WE DECIDE TO TURN UP AND REPRESENT.”
Women’s sports is an industry worth over £1 billion. As it continues to gain ground in popularity, this has opened the space for candid conversations on taboo topics like performing during the time of the month. Several top-level female sprinters including Dina Asher-Smith and English Gardner have stepped forward to share their experiences to suffering physical setbacks, particularly in the finals, due to their cycle. “This isn’t women making excuses, it’s a real issue that affects us and the research is now there to support this,” says Henry.
“The reality is even if you feel tired you still must go out there and perform. It’s part and parcel to being a professional female athlete. I use an app called Flo to track my cycle. If I have a training session where I feel fatigue or my body is not cooperating, I know not to be so hard on myself. On championship days you
must rise to the occasion no matter what, but other times it’s knowing when to take it easy.”
Another topic we at SPELL wanted to sink our proverbial teeth into is hair. For many black female sportswomen, how they choose to wear their hair has taken precedent over their achievements. On some occasions it’s viewed through a positive lens. For example, the Jamaican and American female sprinters wear mermaid-coloured lacefront weaves unapologetically. Think of Shelly-Ann Fraser-Pryce and Sha’Carri Richardson who tossed her wig into the crowd after winning the championships because she wanted people to know: “I’m not gonna change the confidence in myself ever”. On the other hand, one of the world’s greatest gymnasts, Simone Biles, publicly faced harsh comments because her natural hair reverted in the heat. “If you haven’t got anything nice to say just don’t say it,” says Henry.
“As a black female athlete, you’re already trying to overcome so many adversities like gaining respect on the world stage. Even when you perform over and beyond, you’re constantly having to prove yourself with every race. This [hair] is just another layer.
“I’m so proud of how we wear our hair. It’s our self-expression of how we decide to turn up and represent. And that’s so powerful because the younger generation are watching, and it will give them confidence.”
There’s absolute truth in Henry’s words and she recalls training in America and being “in awe” of how the female athletes turned up to training with “pristine hair”. “Seeing how the Americans did their hair gave me the inspiration to wear my natural hair. Now when I train, I make sure I use a bit of Cantu Protective Styles Braiding and Twisting Gel to slick the edges. With how intense my sessions are, my edges stay put a couple of hours before it sweats out, which for an edge tamer is impressive.”
For those of us who avoid going to the gym after a silk press, Henry has some firm words of wisdom. “Modify the type of training you’re doing depending on your hairstyle. You can do Pilates or yoga to stretch the muscles and therefore not sweat as much. The aim is to always do something proactive and productive to help your body.”
She also manages to put sweat in a positive light. “Exercise helps to open your pores and get rid of toxins.
TRACK STARS
Because you’re drinking more water, you’re flushing out your system too which will help your skin glow. Of course this must be supported with a good skin routine. I use Neutrogena’s face wash twice a day and exfoliate once a week.”
The battle of winter body versus summer body is a narrative we no longer indulge. Instead, we’re seeking answers on how to maintain a balanced approach to fitness all year round: “Do something that excites you,” enthuses Henry. “If you can look forward to doing the physical activity, that’s half the battle done.”
But what about the great curse of cheat days? “Oh, I suffer from that too. I get through a pack of chocolate digestives in the blink of an eye. Look, when I’m giving fitness advice, I’m aware I’m coming from a place of privilege. My full-time job is to train, and I understand not everyone has that luxury; they’ll have kids to look after or work night shifts. So I say become mindful of the activities you do, for example, walking to the bus stop or cleaning the house. All of that contributes to burning the calories.”
So without further ado grab the vacuum and get to Spring cleaning –your body with thank you!
DRINKS ON YOU
Do you struggle gulping down health supplements or getting through eight glasses of water a day? Perhaps a beauty boosting beverage is the answer you’re seeking. Packed with holistic hero ingredients like bamboo and reishi mushroom to name a few, these mindful remedies help to heal the body and calm the mind warding off oxidative stress aka aging. For a beauty fix, try collagen water for healthier skin, hair and nails. After all, self-care starts within.
spell loves
FEED YOUR INNER PRODUCT JUNKIE
New launches to add to your lust list this month
KIN , Euphorics Bloom (8 pack), £31
JUNO, Bamboo Water (6 pack), £12.90
THE EYES HAVE IT
Haus Labs by Lady Gaga is all about ingenuity. The triclone skin technology in the foundation has impressed beauty editors across the world (including the Spell team). Following suit is the B Structural Volumizing + Lengthening Mascara, £27 –the world’s first vegan B-Silk powered wand. What does that mean? Fluttery and nourished lashes for those with sensitive eyes.
TIDE , Collagen Water (12 pack), £30
Unsplash
BOUNCE BACK
With the countdown on to summer body goals, boobuddy is a comfortable support band that reduces bounce by up to 70 per cent, minimising discomfort and long-term damage to breast tissue caused by working out. Simply wear over a sports bra for instant stability.
SENT WITH LOVE
SPILL THE TEE
Newly in from South Africa, lelive (“leh-lee-veh”) meaning light of the world, is a skincare line that checks all the eco-friendly and inclusive boxes: conscious packaging, vegan-friendly, gender neutral and pregnancy-safe. But what made us smile are the pun intended product names – a cleanser called cleaner colada, and an eye treatment aptly named eye-conic, gives the high-end brand a cute sense of humour.
Oversize tees are no longer just for sleeping in. And when you find the right one, like this caricature emblazoned graphic t-shirt by the upcoming British brand, Attren, you’ll find it captures the glance of passers-by, or even becomes an icebreaker in socially awkward situations.
SKIN CARE
reasons not to go cheap on skincare 9
Your skin will thank you
In the quest for ‘good skin’ we find ourselves in the perennial struggle of spend vs. save. Through TikTok osmosis, we’ve entered a phase of championing inexpensive skincare hacks. Take slugging – the act of slathering Vaseline on the face to prevent dryness and protect the moisture barrier. It received 673.4 million views. And did it work? Kind of.
The beauty space is saturated with brands promising fast and effective results at a reasonable price. In the throes of a cost-ofliving crisis you can argue this is music to our ears. But when you delve deeper (past the epidermis), you’ll quickly realise making an investment yields better results long-term.
Here, we talk to a range of experts, from award-winning beauty writers to CEOs for leading skincare brands, to find out the real reasons why spending a bit more will do wonders for your complexion.
Quality of ingredients
The phrase “you get what you pay for” may not apply to everything, but it certainly has validity when it comes to the ingredients found in our skincare products.
“Cheaper products often use lower-quality or less-effective ingredients. They might rely on fillers, synthetic chemicals, or preservatives that don’t deliver the same benefits as higherquality, active ingredients found in more expensive product,” says Dija Ayodele, founder of the Black Skin Directory.
These low-grade ingredients are commonly used to ‘bulk out’ the product, preserve it or change its consistency. Among them are some potentially harmful components, including parabens, dyes and silicone-based ingredients worth avoiding.
Formulation and stability
While we’re on the subject of what’s inside the bottle, high-quality skincare brands invest in better formulations. Advanced formulas tend to be well-balanced, stable, and effective. It’s often the case cheaper products do not have the same level of scientific research behind them, making them less effective or potentially even irritating. Beauty writer Anita Bhagwandas says: “Moisturisers have big molecules, which means they sit on the skin’s surface to essentially ‘keep things out.’ But serums have smaller molecules that can – depending on their formulations and ingredients – penetrate slightly deeper levels of the skin. So, if it’s a financial choice, get a serum that targets whatever concerns you have (perhaps you’re looking for an antioxidant like vitamin C, for example) and use that before using a cheaper moisturiser.”
Skin sensitivity
When it comes to creating specialist products for specific needs, such as sensitive skin, a high-end skincare brand usually comes out on top for having targeting products. Whereas a cheaper product might be a catch-all for general skin types – think dry, oily or combination – its more expensive alternative may delve deeper to address individual problems, such as cystic acne, hyperpigmentation, rosacea or keratosis pilaris (rough bumps on the skin caused by keratin build-up).
Not only that, but these products often fit into a holistic, step-based skincare line that tackles the problem from all angles. Think cleanser, toner, moisturiser. “A well-formulated cleanser ensures that the skin remains balanced, refreshed, and ready to absorb the next skincare steps effectively,” says skincare expert Shenuka Fernando.
Long-term results
While a cheap product may seem effective at first, it may not provide long-term results. Higher-quality skincare can deliver more noticeable improvements over time because it contains proven active ingredients that support the skin’s health and appearance in the long run. For example, “Mannitol is an effective stabiliser and can help maintain the efficacy of other skincare ingredients over time. Usually it is found in premium products but is worth incorporating into your routine,” says skincare formulator and founder of Skin Masterclass, Cigdem Kemal Yilmaz.
Packaging and preservation
Pretty packaging isn’t just for show! Top brands often invest in better packaging that helps preserve the potency of their products, like air-tight containers or UVprotective bottles. Founder of SuperfoodLx Paula Francis says, “Some of our premium formulas like the Hair, Skin & Nail Oil is stored in a brown glass bottle to protect it from white light and UV rays which can cause degradation.”
And if it just happens to look good on your bathroom shelf, what’s the harm?
Fusing nature and science
While we swear by our shea butter and castor oil in their purest forms, using high-tech, luxury skincare doesn’t mean we’re going against nature. Often, higher-end products make the most of the natural ingredients that are available by utilising botanical extracts, minerals and proteins, and combine them with innovative manufacturing methods to create targeted formulas. “We have looked at the skincare concerns that our customers, our audience and, predominantly, black people face, and we developed products using ingredients that are science-backed but in their natural form,” explains Yaw Okyere founder of Ava Estell.
Rigorous trialling
All skincare brands have to follow strict rules before a product can hit the shelves,
but those in the higher price ranges often invest heavily in testing their products for efficacy and safety. To ensure their products are effective for specific skin concerns, they work with dermatologists, chemists and clinical trials. Founder of Melasun Marina Camu shares, “With my product development leader, we spent a lot of time working on the lab formulation brief and non-negotiables. I partnered with an amazing well-established local lab that specialised in suncare formulation. They developed formulations which combine a range of SPF levels, adaptable to a broad spectrum, with skin enhancement ingredients to ensure a good hydration level.”
Ethical sourcing and sustainability
Though ethical values are not exclusive to premium brands, they may prioritise ethical sourcing of ingredients and sustainable practices in production, packaging, and transportation as standard. This might include the use of organic or eco-friendly ingredients, cruelty-free testing, or sustainable packaging, in comparison to cheaper brands, which may cut costs by sourcing budget, unsustainable ingredients or using non-recyclable packaging materials.
No harsh additives
Back to that all-important ingredients list – “the shorter, the better” is a good rule to follow. Cheaper products may include a myriad of harsh additives like alcohols and artificial fragrances that can result in inflammation or sensitivity, particularly for those with more delicate skin. 4.5.6 Skin founder Noelly Michoux reveals the mindful approach taken at the formulation stage. “Our signature Vitalized Water is a great vector for other ingredients, to the functional agents used to create textures, which are free of all nano-plastics and silicones, using gentle nature-like emulsifiers, eliminating all drying ingredients, denatured alcohol, all petrolderived ingredients and having a balanced approach to using active science-backed ingredients to deliver efficacy without the backlash of high concentration ingredients.”
“CHEAPER ISN’T ALWAYS BETTER WHEN IT COMES TO PAYING THE PRICE FOR BEAUTY, EVEN WITH SKINCARE PRODUCTS”
INvEStmENt pIECES
It ain’t about the money, money, money…
ZO SKIN HEALTH
Gel Sunscreen
Broad-Spectrum SPF 50, £46
BESt SpFS
DARLING
Protect+Me SPF50, £37
BESt NIght CREAmS
DR NYLA
Rejuvenating Night Cream, £140
ELEMIS
Pro-Collagen Night Cream, £110
BESt LED mASKS
BEAUTYPRO LED Wand, £79
DR DENNIS Gross Spectralite EyeCare Max Pro, £200
47 SKIN Daily SPF30, £35
MEDIK8 Advanced Night Restore, £59
CURRENTBODY Face & Neck Kit, £679.99 Avlon Europe
1 CHECK EXPIRY
Out of date skincare products can contribute to breakouts. Be sure to check expiration dates. Old products can lose effectiveness and harbour bacteria.
tRIED & tEStED
Premium products we’re championing
PEEPCLUB
Original Heated Eye Wand, £65
After a day of screens this nifty device will soothe dry eyes in minutes. It’s portability and temperature control makes the hot compress a little archaic. If you’re new to LED beauty too, start with a small gadget like this to gauge the benefits.
AVA ESTELL
Magix Cream, £29.99
With over 14k five star reviews this cream is doing something right. Made with a myriad of natural oils and butters to effectively treat and fade hyperpigmentation, this is a summer must-have.
4.5.6 SKIN
Brightening Serum, £55
Texture is the holy grail for good skin. This serum refines lines and purifies pores, so you wake up to a clearer complexion that glows. But if you need hydration during the day, it can be used as a daily moisturiser too as it’s not too heavy.
SUPERFOODLX
Hair Skin and Nail Oil, £24
Treating acne scars takes patience but before you throw in the towel give this powerhouse oil a go. Massage in one or two droplets to the problem area to kickstart skin renewal.
2 GENTLE EXFOLIATION
Use once a week a BHA (i.e. salicylic acid) exfoliant to clear out clogged pores. If your skin is sensitive try an enzyme exfoliator to reduce irritation.
3
HYDRATE WITHOUT CLOGGING PORES
Richer winter creams can be too heavy for is time of year. Switch to a gel-based or lightweight, noncomedogenic moisturiser with hyaluronic acid and niacinamide to balance oil production.
4
PROTECT YOUR SKIN
Never skip SPF! Warmer weather means more sun exposure, which can cause post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) –dark marks left behind by acne. The best way to prevent this is by using a broadspectrum SPF 30+ daily.
5
GET A FACIAL
For stubborn skin issues get a professional facial like LED Light Therapy, a chemical peel or hydrafacial. These non-invssive treatments require minimal downtime.
Edges looking snatched, Edges on fleek, Edges slayed – don’t you just love our inventiveness! Catchphrases cemented our love for larger than life baby hairs. If you have the time and skill, you can customise your edges into shapes that would make Picasso proud. But if you want something more ready-made, wigmakers have been taking notes. Outre Melted Hairline Swirlista (see opposite) has a generous amount of soft HD transparent lace to pluck and swirl baby hairs into elegant spirals or more dramatised swoops.
IT’S A
Nneke Allison founder of HoochTeeStyles explains why we need to stock up on the spritz and the bonding glue
Fetch the spritz and bonding glue because the hair creativity from the Nineties is kicking down the door. The most polished and preened hairstyles worn by iconic R&B and hip-hop stars have risen from the grave of music magazines and bedroom posters. Now is the time to refamiliarise yourself with burnt end braids à la Brandy to pristine French rolls and retro “hee hee haa” fingerwaves.
There’s no doubt this was an era for flexing black hair artistry. “Fashion and hair trends always come full circle, but I can honestly say the Nineties aesthetics will always heavily influence future hairstyles and clothing,” says Nneke Allison founder of HoochTeeStyles, a style house specialising in nostalgic hair. “I’ve always had a love for Nineties culture. I was born in 1994 myself, so I was really in the midst of these iconic looks.”
Rappers like Megan Thee Stallion, Spice, Cardi B and Glorilla have helped modernise the elaborate vibe of Nineties swag. But to give credit where credit is due: “Lil Kim is a true icon,” says Allison “In her 1996 music video Crush On You she pulled off so many clean pressed, brightly coloured wigs. She paved the way for women to be confident and comfortable with their hair, body, and sexuality.”
The level of extraness is for your choosing. Jamaican dancehall queens, who were the originators of this trend had a penchant for exhibitionist colour. The kaleidoscope of shades only had one rule: the brighter the better. Throwback lookbooks dedicated to black women would have pages of flamboyant styles where stylists
“THE LEVEL OF EXTRANESS IS FOR YOUR CHOOSING”
Nneke Allison
would show their creative prowess through the medium of crème press, spritz and a hot comb. It was the norm see 5-in-1 hair adornments displaying a crimped fringe, a French roll at the back, a waterfall ponytail on top, dip-dyed ends and the piece de resistance, a zip sewn-in at the base of the pony.
The Bronner Brothers show based in Atlanta and Afro Hair & Beauty (AHB) in London have become opportunities for hair creatives to show their craft to a live audience. One year at AHB as part of the Sensationnel Icon show, a model wore a wedding cake on her head, fashioned out of wefted weaves. Whereas this sits at the OTT end of the spectrum – more sculpture than style – Allison has developed a more accessible approach. “When you get a HoochTeeStyles pixie cut prepare to have a pop of colour or a blend of bright tones. I always tailor it to the client factoring in their skin tone and personality.”
Whether it’s to your taste or not, the skill required and attention to detail for Nineties hair demands the highest respect. Black women are known to spend hours in the salon, but little thought goes towards the hairstylist *correction* hair artisan working their unparallelled magic. “The pixie cut is in demand, and if your client has a whole head of hair, you must figure out a way to get it to lay ultra flat. The secret lies in the braiding; small partings and technique are paramount. For clients that have long hair I always do different braiding methods i.e. a circular pattern to avoid the quick weave or sew in becoming clumpy.”
The stigma of these styles looking ‘ghetto’ or ‘rachet’ is one that Allison refutes. “I think the girls that get it get it. The reality is these hairstyles are created by confident unapologetic women, who just so happen to come from less fortunate areas. The moment these styles reach high fashion spaces the narrative changes to ‘’creative’’, ‘’expressive’’ or even ‘’brave’’. Unfortunately, this is how the world treats black culture.”
With nearly half a million TikTok views, HoochTeeStyles Nineties glam is making waves – the old school mousse and swoop way. “My content brings it right back to the South where you get the ghetto fab looks. A lot of people when they think of the Nineties it’s Aaliyah in Tommy Hilfiger or TLC wearing oversized clothes with Timberland boots. Trends will always come round in full circle, but the Nineties will always be prominent in influencing hair, beauty and fashion –after all. it was our best years!”
Courtesy of Charisse Kenion
1. THE FEME COLLECTION
Full Lace Wig Cap, £5.99
For a stocking cap weave, lay a good foundation with this stretchable and adjustable full lace version.
5. NOMA SANA
Silk Tress Hair
Straightener, £180
Every old-school salon had a hot comb. This modern-day version won’t burn the scalp or singe the ends.
2. CRÈME OF NATURE
Style & Shine Foaming Mousse, £4.50
Definition with zero frizz is the name of the game. Use this mousse to finish and set styles under the dryer.
6. SCHWARZKOPF
Live Colour, £6.99
Go for full throttle colour with a semi-permanent that won’t scrimp on the shade intensity. Remember you can choose your level of extraness.
3. SENSATIONNEL
Goddess Select Remi, from £28
A favourite with the Aunties, the first generation of weaves are the go-to for streaky highlights and quick weaves.
7. GOT2B
Blasting Freeze Spray, £2.49
Ordinary hairsprays add extra hold. This one sculpts, moulds and defies gravity, therefore essential for Nineties glam.
4. KERACARE
Crème Press, £12
Achieve sleekness with the mirror-shine by using this OG press crème that doubles up as heat protector. An essential for old-school glam
8. INDOLA
Texture Glue, £6.99
Unlike yesteryear, today’s styling gels are more sophisticated and contain no minerals or alcohol to dry out natural hair.
Taking action against hair discrimination
52% of Black people’s self-esteem has been damaged by hair discrimination. Founder and CEO of Enact Equality, L’myah Sherae says it must end here.
In the UK, 93% of the black population have faced microaggressions related to their hair, predominantly at school or in the workplace. That’s over 2.3 million children, teenagers and adults who have been discriminated against, simply for embracing their natural hair texture. The notion that braids are unprofessional or an afro is ‘disruptive’ in the classroom is rooted in a long history of systemic racism designed to target and treat people of colour unfairly.
The Enact Equality is a non-profit policy and campaign organisation spearheading the mission to make lasting, legislative change that will enhance and better the lives and experiences of black children and adults across the UK. The newly launched Discrimination Reporting Platform is a dedicated, online portal providing a safe, inclusive space for those who have experienced hair discrimination of any kind to seek guidance, support and ultimately, galvanise policy makers to drive meaningful change.
Users will be able to work with the Enact Equality team to drive their desired outcome, from helping to advocate for policy change with the team, to pro-bono law firm referrals. In the UK, known hair discrimination cases can start in nursery at as young as four years old, then continue throughout childhood educational experiences and into adult life. This
Founder
and CEO of Enact Equality, L’myah Sherae
is a major step forward in supporting people to advocate for their rights.
Founder and CEO of Enact Equality, L’myah Sherae says: “Our reporting platform at Enact Equality is a critical tool in the fight against discrimination, an issue that cannot be ignored. The platform isn’t just about data collection; it empowers our community to take a stand and demand accountability. Our hair is not unprofessional or a distraction; it is a fundamental part of who we are. Through this initiative, we are reclaiming our narrative and insisting on the respect and recognition we deserve.”
On a mission to change the rules for good, we speak to Sherae about her aims to influence legislative change, the importance to making a stand and her brutally truthful TED Talk.
WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO START ENACT EQUALITY, AND HOW DID YOUR OWN EXPERIENCES SHAPE ITS MISSION?
I’ve been passionate about racial justice for as long as I can remember, and there’s one experience in particular that stands out vividly from my childhood. Growing up in Nottingham and attending a predominantly white school, I recall a teacher reading aloud from a book called Of Mice and Men. When they came across a racial slur, they didn’t censor it or address its implications, leaving me feeling really uncomfortable. I literally remember all of my classmates turning to look at me, and suddenly feeling hypervisible. That evening, I told my mum about what happened. She went to the school the next day and explained to teachers why the use of such language was unacceptable. As a result, the school reformed how they approached books containing racial slurs, agreeing to censor the language or provide necessary context.
That moment taught me an invaluable lesson: I have the power to speak up and effect change. It instilled in me the belief that no one should have to endure such an isolating experience, especially as a child. Years later,
that belief became the foundation for Enact Equality. My mission is to use this platform to address racial inequalities and ensure that others are protected, supported and empowered to make a difference.
HAIR DISCRIMINATION IS A SYSTEMIC ISSUE. WHY DO YOU THINK IT HAS PERSISTED FOR SO LONG, AND WHAT SOCIETAL FACTORS CONTRIBUTE TO IT?
Hair discrimination has persisted for so long because it’s deeply ingrained in our societal norms and institutions. It’s a form of systemic racism that’s often overlooked or trivialised. The persistence of eurocentric beauty standards in media, workplaces, the sporting industry and schools has played a significant role in perpetuating these harmful attitudes.
Moreover, the lack of explicit legal protections against hair discrimination has allowed it to continue unchecked in many areas. It’s a complex issue that intersects with broader racial prejudices and cultural misunderstandings. That’s why addressing it requires a multifaceted approach, targeting both policy changes and societal attitudes.
HOW DOES ENACT EQUALITY’S NEW DISCRIMINATION REPORTING PLATFORM WORK, AND WHAT KIND OF IMPACT DO YOU HOPE IT WILL HAVE FOR INDIVIDUALS WHO FACE HAIR DISCRIMINATION?
Our new Afro Hair Discrimination Reporting Platform is a gamechanger. It’s an innovative tool that allows people across the UK to report instances of race-based hair discrimination easily. What makes it truly special is the option for users to request free legal advice from our partner law firms. This feature is crucial because it empowers individuals with the support they need to stand up against discrimination.
We hope the platform will have a significant impact by providing a clear picture of the scale and nature of hair discrimination in the
“HAIR DISCRIMINATION HAS PERSISTED FOR SO LONG BECAUSE IT’S DEEPLY INGRAINED IN OUR SOCIETAL NORMS AND INSTITUTIONS”
UK. This data will be invaluable for informing policy changes and raising awareness. Plus, by offering direct support to those affected, we’re giving individuals the tools they need to challenge discrimination and drive meaningful change.
YOUR PLATFORM OFFERS PROBONO LAW FIRM REFERRALS AND POLICY ADVOCACY. CAN YOU SHARE EXAMPLES OF HOW THESE SERVICES MIGHT HELP SOMEONE NAVIGATE A DISCRIMINATION CASE?
Our platform’s pro-bono law firm referrals provide individuals with access to legal experts who can guide them through the complexities of discrimination cases. For example, if someone is reprimanded at work for wearing their natural hair or a protective style, they might not know their rights or how to challenge such actions. Through our platform, they can connect with a trusted law firm for free advice on how to file a complaint, gather evidence, and take appropriate legal action. This support empowers them to stand up against unfair treatment and seek justice.
On the policy advocacy side, the platform collects anonymised data from reported cases, which we use to push for systemic change. For instance, if reports reveal patterns of discriminatory school policies, we can work with policymakers to introduce more inclusive guidelines that protect natural and afro hairstyles. By combining direct legal support with broader advocacy efforts, our platform ensures that individuals not only receive immediate help but also contribute to long-term societal change.
FOR THOSE WHO HAVE FACED THIS ISSUE, WHAT ARE SOME OF THE PSYCHOLOGICAL IMPACTS EXPERIENCED MENTALLY AND EMOTIONALLY?
The psychological impact of hair discrimination can be profound and long-lasting. Many individuals I’ve encountered report feelings of shame, lowered self-esteem, and a sense of not belonging. It’s heartbreaking to see how these experiences, especially when they occur in childhood, can shape a person’s self-image and mental health well into adulthood.
I’ve also observed increased stress and anxiety among those who feel pressured to alter their natural hair to fit in or avoid discrimination. This constant worry about how their hair will be perceived can be exhausting and demoralising. No one should have to sacrifice their identity or dignity just to be accepted. We want to create a society where everyone can feel confident and celebrated exactly as they are.
IN YOUR TED TALK, YOU HIGHLIGHT YOUR OWN UNCOMFORTABLE EXPERIENCES...
In my TEDx Talk, I share a deeply personal story from my first fulltime job in politics that highlights the urgency of addressing hair discrimination. I had been invited to a political event and was genuinely excited to be there. Just as the room fell silent and the event was about to start, a senior colleague shouted out from behind me and said I needed a garden rake to “sort out” my hair because, in her words, she couldn’t see past me. It was an incredibly disrespectful comment with clear
racist undertones. As someone new to the political sector, this moment was not only humiliating but also disheartening, especially since it came from someone in a position of power.
What made this experience even more disturbing was the context. This happened in a room filled with some of the most powerful figures in the country, the very people responsible for leading the nation. It underscored for me how deeply rooted and pervasive hair discrimination is, extending to the highest echelons of society. This is why it’s so critical to address this issue, not just in schools and workplaces, but across every sphere of society.
WHAT SPECIFIC LAWS OR POLICIES WOULD YOU LIKE TO SEE INTRODUCED OR AMENDED TO PROTECT AGAINST HAIR DISCRIMINATION?
At Enact Equality, we’re championing crucial legislative reform to combat hair discrimination. We’re supporting calls to amend the Equality Act 2010 to explicitly protect against race-based hair discrimination. This amendment would not only provide a clear legal framework for addressing such cases but also signal a firm commitment to eradicating these outdated and harmful biases.
In addition to legislative change, we’re advocating for comprehensive national guidelines on inclusive hair policies for schools and workplaces. While our collaboration with the Equality and Human Rights Commission to create policy guidance for schools is a promising step, we believe stronger protections are needed across all sectors to ensure everyone can express their identity without fear of prejudice or exclusion.
HAIR DISCRIMINATION OFTEN STARTS IN SCHOOLS. WHAT ROLE DOES IT PLAY IN EITHER PERPETUATING OR PREVENTING THIS ISSUE?
Unfortunately, many schools have been sites of discrimination, with policies that unfairly target natural
afro hairstyles. However, educators also have the power to be agents of positive change.
We need schools to adopt inclusive policies that celebrate diversity in all its forms, including hair textures and styles. Educators can help by educating themselves and their students about the cultural significance of different hairstyles and challenging their own biases. By creating an environment where all hair types are respected, schools can set a powerful example for society at large.
WHAT
STEPS CAN INDIVIDUALS, ORGANISATIONS, AND POLICYMAKERS TAKE TO PROMOTE A CULTURE OF ACCEPTANCE AND CELEBRATION OF NATURAL HAIR?
To actively combat hair discrimination, individuals can start by educating themselves about the cultural significance and diversity of afro hair. Challenging personal biases and speaking out against
discriminatory comments or policies in schools, workplaces, and social settings is essential. Supporting campaigns and initiatives that celebrate natural hair and amplifying the voices of those affected by discrimination can also drive awareness and solidarity.
Organisations and policymakers must take more systemic action too. Employers and schools should implement inclusive hair policies that explicitly protect natural and afro hairstyles, ensuring that no one is penalised for embracing their identity. Policymakers can strengthen these efforts by amending the Equality Act 2010 to explicitly ban hair discrimination.
Ultimately, we all have a responsibility to challenge stereotypes and create a culture where natural hair is not merely accepted but celebrated unapologetically. It’s about honouring the essence, power, and undeniable beauty of every hair type and style.
Photographyby Richard Miles. Hair by Lisa Farrall. Makeup by Lauren Kay. Styling by Lewis Robert Cameron
The new Feme Collection SYN Weave comes in must-wear textures, stand out colours and lengths up to 30 inches
Clockwise: Deep Wave in colour 1B; Straight in colour T4/613 and Jerry Bohemian T1B/27
