Issue
3
2021
CHEF’S TABLE: THE WYLD DOCK BAR
PAGE 24 \ SAVANNAH, GEORGIA
Southern SOIL
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Contents
08
18
IN DEFENSE OF SNAKES
SMALL FARM SPOTLIGHT
PAGE 08
a growing food movement
PAGE 18 \ JONES CREEK FARM
24
29
CHEF’S TABLE
THE STATE OF THE MAGAZINE
PAGE 24 \ THE WYLD DOCK BAR
04....... EDITORIAL 36....... NATIVE PLANT HIGHLIGHT
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PAGE 29 \ FOLLOW OUR PROGRESS!
40...... SOME KINDA GOOD 44...... THE BOOKWORM
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Southern SOIL
Editorial In this issue, we cover an interesting topic which
snakes and shares some of the ways that snakes
may seem out of place in a magazine that is
play an important role on their family farm.
focused on food! But snakes are not as far off topic as they might seem at first glance.
A big thank you to Executive Chef and co-owner of The Wyld Dock Bar, Tony Seichrist, for serving
A balanced and healthy ecosystem should be the
up some great food and taking the time to give us
goal of any farmer working with regenerative/
an inside look at his kitchen! Read all about it in
sustainable methods. And snakes are definitely part
the Chef’s Table feature. Be sure to check out this
of a healthy ecosystem here in Southeast Georgia,
great spot for food and views next time you’re in
where we are home to approximately 46 species of
Savannah. (See photo highlights next page.)
snakes. These snakes range from a few inches in size to several feet! Venomous and non-venomous. If you’re on the fence about snakes or if you’re one of those people who believes the only good snake is a dead snake - please take a few moments to read In Defense of Snakes and let’s see if we can’t 4
change your mind! I interviewed Steve Hein of the Center for Wildlife Education at Georgia Southern for this article. If you haven’t had a chance to check out the Center, you should definitely make a point to do so. They not only have an extensive snake collection but some pretty awesome birds of prey as well. Among other things, Steve is known as the person to whom Freedom flies when the Bald Eagle does his flyovers for the football games. I have a personal connection with Freedom because my graduation from GSU was Freedom’s first flight as the official GSU mascot. (Freedom has an injury to his beak that makes him unable to live in the wild.) I also spoke with Kristan Fretwell of Hunter Cattle Company. Kristan is an outspoken advocate for
If you are enjoying the content that Southern Soil provides and have the means to do so, please consider making a small donation to help pay it forward and keep our content free to read!
LeeAnna Tatum
LEEANNA TATUM, Editor
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Possibly a copperhead. Not intended for identification purposes.
Photo by Travis Bugar on Scopio
a growing food movement
In Defense of Snakes
by LeeAnna Tatum
Even just the mention, let alone the sight, of them
experience with their extensive reptile collection as
generates a strong reaction - I’m talking about
well. He has also led hundreds of demonstrations
snakes!
and talks over the years, both with visitors to the Center and audiences across the US.
Love them or hate them, there is little room for ambivalence where this reptile is concerned. And
“The Wildlife Center exists because we want to
while some people are fond of saying, “the only
put into context man’s relationship with the natural
good snake is a dead snake,” I’d like to help make
world around him,” Steve explained. “If I had to pick
the case in defense of this often maligned creature.
one species or one animal of which we have grossly misinterpreted their role in the ecosystem it would
Georgia is home to a rich biodiversity of native
be snakes.”
snakes which includes 46 native species, of which only six are venomous. Snakes are common in woodlands, parks and backyards throughout the State. When we engage with the outdoor environment,
Why We Fear Snakes and Why We Really Shouldn’t
chances are good that there are snakes nearby.
Steve hypothesized that we have a cultural bias
If you find that thought disturbing, take comfort
against snakes that likely stems from a number of
in knowing that chances are also good that you’ll
sources including the Bible (depicting Satan as a
never even know they’re there.
serpent) and also an inherited fear of venomous snakes that at one time was quite legitimate.
We as humans also have a tendency to fear (or hate) that which we do not know or understand. So,
While a snake bite from a venomous snake native to
let’s take a few minutes out of our busy day to get
North America is rarely fatal today (approximately
to know a little more about our reptilian neighbors!
5 per year), due to advances in modern medicine and the rapidity with which it can be administered,
I recently sat down with Steve Hein, Founder
it wasn’t all that long ago when a snake bite could
and Executive Director of the Center for Wildlife
very well be deadly. And a fear of snakes in general,
Education at Georgia Southern University. Though
if you couldn’t differentiate between venomous and
Steve’s expertise is birds of prey, as the director
nonvenomous, was indeed a healthy fear.
of the Center for 29 years, he has gained a lot of (con tinued on page 10)
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Speaking of his grandfather’s generation, Steve mentioned that most people could readily identify one snake in particular and it was viewed as almost Photo by Pablo Nidam on Scopio
sacrilege to kill one. “The Eastern Kingsnake was given its name as the king of snakes because it’s immune to venomous snakes and it’s a constrictor. The name speaks to how we see it, people know not to kill the black snake with the white stripes as if it’s out there hunting the venomous snakes for the survival of mankind!” As compared to five deaths per year from venomous snake bits, an average of 40 people die each year in the US as a result of dog bites. As Steve put it, “That which we call our ‘best friend’ is what we’re most likely to be bitten by.”
A rattlesnake. Maybe an Eastern Diamondback, but probably a Western Diamondback (Not for identification purposes). Here are a few fun facts about things more likely to kill you this year than a snake bite. You are nine times more likely to die from a lightning strike than a snake bite (this is less of a fun fact when lightning is striking nearby as I’m typing this). You are nine times more likely to die from a bee, hornet or wasp
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sting than a snake bite.
Who’s More Dangerous? Steve also points out that snake bites are not as random as we might think. There are actually some pretty specific demographics that are associated with this particular type of medical emergency. Knowing that, pause here for just a moment before reading further and consider what you think this group of likely candidates might be. If you had to guess, would you think of a particular race? Which gender? What about age group? Would our snake bite demographic group trend younger or older? What about bite location? Ankle, maybe? What about the hand? And finally, would you think individuals in this illustrious group would likely be
a growing food movement
sober? Or intoxicated?
Most of the time, snake bites don’t just happen.
“The context says it’s not random,” Steve explained,
Snakes bite when they have run out of other
“statistics show the most common victim of snake
options for defending themselves.
bites to be: young, white, male and bitten on the hand. When they rush them to the hospital and
Snakes are both prey and predator. Their colors
they’re doing the tox screen, alcohol levels are
and patterns work well to camouflage them and
significant.”
this works well for them in both of their roles. It keeps them hidden from what they’re hunting but
“If you’re looking for a dangerous animal,” Steve
it also keeps them hidden from the things that are
concludes, “it’s a young white male who has been
hunting them (most often this would be something
drinking.”
like the Red-tailed hawk). Rattlesnakes have the added benefit of a rattle to help them warn off
We’re not looking to pick on young white males
those who might inadvertently cause them harm
here, just to make the point that the average person
(like, you know, young white males with a little liquid
being bit by a snake is not someone who happens
courage).
to be minding their own business and just walking down a wooded path or working in their garden.
Their very last line of defense is to bite. Even then, (con tinued on page 12)
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they can control the amount of venom they release
As to our instincts of thinking the only good snake
and will often not waste their venom on something
is a dead snake, many studies have shown that
that will not end up being a food source for them
snakes perform vital roles within our ecosystems
(this is called a dry bite).
and should be appreciated not annihilated.
If you want to coexist on this planet with snakes
And as previously covered, attempting to kill a
and not get bit, it’s pretty simple - leave them alone.
snake is often the biggest contributing factor leading to a snake bite. “It doesn’t take a whole lot of education to do what is right by everybody and to keep you, specifically
Photo by David Schliepp on Scopio
the human, out of harm’s way,” Steve said. “The worst thing you can do is go grab the broom, the knife, the hatchet.. It really starts going south at that point.” (Also, keep in mind that while you do have the right to protect yourself and others by killing a venomous Nonvenomous Green Rough Snake (photo for visual interest only, not for identification).
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snake, you do not have the right to kill other species. It is actually illegal in the State of Georgia to intentionally kill any of the 40 non venomous
How To Properly React to a Snake “In 29 years of being on the road talking to countless audiences from federal judges to the highest socio economics to the very impoverished… you cannot distinguish between the responses …
species.) The correct response when you encounter a snake? “Just stop, take two steps back, and walk away; and we’re all going to be just fine,” Steve assured.
I ask the audience, ‘what do people do when they encounter snakes?’ and the response is always, ‘scream, run and try to kill it!’.” Our ingrained responses are essentially all wrong. “We scream and the snake doesn’t have ears … run from them and they’re one of the slowest animals on land moving about 2 - 3 miles per hour for most
Why We Should Appreciate Snakes Rather Than Fear Them “There have been a lot of studies done that show how well adapted snakes are to act as a control mechanism for rodents,” Steve said.
snakes … you can skip away faster than they can
He went on to discuss the role of rodents in
follow… and they have no reason to come after you
spreading things like the bubonic plague which
anyway,” Steve explains.
was far more deadly than any of the most potent
Photo provided by Kristan Fretwell, Hunter Cattle Co.
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venomous snakes could ever hope to be. Though it was the fleas carrying the disease, it was the rats that enabled its pervasiveness. “Rats were thrown over castle walls to unleash the deadly plague and kill as many people as possible, they didn’t toss venomous snakes over the walls,” Steve joked. The danger of venomous snakes is not as grave as what we think it is, conversely snakes can go anywhere a rodent can go, so they provide a great benefit. “Something like 25%, maybe even higher globally, of the foods and grains that are put in place to feed humans are consumed by rodents before they ever even come to market,” Steve explained. And this study from the University of Nebraska puts a number on that financial cost - just for that one
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State alone! “The University of Nebraska estimates that mice cause $20 million in damage annually in Nebraska alone. Snakes can slowly prowl to hunt, able to enter burrows and tight spaces where other predators like cats or hawks can’t go, and traps can’t be set.”
Snake Appreciation on the Farm 101 with Kristan Fretwell I also had the opportunity to talk with Kristan Fretwell of Hunter Cattle Farm in Brooklet. Kristan is a teacher turned farmer who still likes to teach! Instead of being confined to a classroom, Kristan (con tinued on page 1 4)
Meadow Fretwell (6) of Hunter Cattle pictured here with a rat snake being moved from the chicken house. ISSUE ~ 3 ~ 2021
Southern SOIL (con tinued f r om page 13) Photo provided by Kristan Fretwell, Hunter Cattle Co.
teaches people who visit her farm about farm life and where their food comes from. She also takes every opportunity to help educate people about the importance of snakes! “I always encourage people to familiarize themselves with snakes,” Kristan said. “If you can identify the venomous ones, I think it will ease your fears. So many people are scared of these little things that could not hurt you even if they tried. And they do so much good for our environment.” “Having a farm, having rats and rodents getting into feed and destroying feed is way worse than having snakes,” Kristan continued. “Second of all, most snakes we see … I would say 80% maybe more … are good (nonvenomous) snakes.” When nonvenomous snakes find their way to places on the farm where they cause some havoc, like the chicken coops, Kristan simply removes
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Forest Fretwell (15) of Hunter Cattle pictured with a king snake found on the farm.
them and puts them where they can earn their keep
rats getting into all the feed bags. It’s kind of like
by eating rodents or in areas where a venomous
our payment to them for keeping the place rodent
snake has been spotted.
free.” “When and if we ever see any venomous snakes, that is probably where we end up concentrating any
Photo provided by Kristan Fretwell, Hunter Cattle Co.
of the other snakes that we find on the property, especially king snakes,” she added. DISCLAIMER: This is not a “how-to” guide. No one is suggesting that the recommended course of action is to pick up and move random snakes. Kristan and her family have educated themselves on snakes and learned to readily identify the six varieties of venomous snakes that call Georgia home. This has been vital information for them to learn since they “We definitely lose some eggs to snakes,” she said,
do come in regular contact with snakes and it is
“but I’d much rather not have rat pee and poop and
necessary for them to remove the snakes from the
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chicken coops to protect their livestock.
sometimes, though rare, those encounters end in a bite from a venomous snake.
“I’ve found for the kids and me, It’s a lot easier to identify the (venomous) ones in order to know if it’s
I had such an experience the week that I started
safe or not.”
working on this article.
“My boys were in the yard and they came across a
I was outside in my own yard with my dog, Blue.
Kingsnake eating a Copperhead,” Kristan recalled.
Though the dogs
“It was one of the craziest coolest things I’ve ever
have a fenced
witnessed. And I thought to myself - people who are
section of my yard
just killing all snakes would kill good ones that are
that I keep cut
helping get rid of the bad ones.”
short, I had Blue out with me in the
“We definitely are snake advocates because of that,”
orchard section
she continued. “I also recently read that there’s an
of my yard, where
insane amount of ticks that snakes eat every year
let’s just say,
that are on the rodents. They’re helpful all the way
nature was given
around and most of them don’t want anything to do
the final say.
with you.” So, of course, Blue chose to go in the high grass “You still need to be smart,” she continued. “I can’t
to take care of his business. At that point, I saw
tell you how many snakes … every single rat snake
him react as if he’d been bitten by something and
we caught from out of our chicken pens, we caught
he was starting to put his nose to the ground to
with our hands and relocated them somewhere we
investigate what had bit him.
wanted them. They’re very docile.” Not wanting him to get bit again, I immediately “Every now and then you’ll get one that’s a little
called him over to me and he came. My first instinct
sassier,” she concluded after a pause.
was to go over there myself and look and see if I
In the 18 years that they have been on the farm, there has only been one negative encounter with a venomous snake when one of their dogs was bit. The dog survived with no adverse effects.
could identify what had bitten him. But thankfully, I decided to prioritize getting him the care he needed as quickly as possible. The initial bite location began swelling immediately, there was a little blood, but not much. He acted as if
Let’s Get Real - Bites Do Happen Ok, so let’s get real! Sometimes encounters with
he was in some distress and drooled excessively on the drive to the vet (though admittedly it was hard to tell because he always drools excessively when he goes for rides).
snakes happen, even though they are rare. And (con tinued on page 16)
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It turned out that he had been bit by a Copperhead.
So, if you, someone you are with, or a pet gets bit by
I got him to his vet quickly and he received excellent
a snake: DO seek medical or veterinary care quickly.
care including an antivenom, pain meds and IV
Time does matter. DON’T attempt to catch or kill the
fluids which helped his body flush out the toxins
snake for identification purposes. As Blue’s vet, DVM
more quickly. He stayed overnight for observation
Jeremy Faris told me, they do not want or need to
and came home the next morning with absolutely
see the snake that bites your pet - don’t put yourself
no long term effects.
at risk and make a bad situation that much worse.
So, yes, unpleasant things can happen with venomous snakes. I did not enjoy the experience at all and neither did Blue (poor guy didn’t stand still to poop for nearly a week).
How to Identify a Venomous Snake (Hint: Don’t Bother!) There are ways to identify a venomous snake from a non-venomous snake. With only six venomous
I also came home after leaving Blue at the vet that
snakes in Georgia and 40 non-venomous snakes, as
day and worked for the next two days to cut back
Kristan mentioned, it’s simpler to learn to ID those six.
the grass and clear some land to make more of my
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yard less appealing for that Copperhead and others
“The triangular shaped head is quite readily
that might be lurking nearby.
apparent,” Steve said of the venomous species.
I did not however try to seek and destroy. I also did
“Also, the eye has an elliptical pupil rather than a
not and will not completely clean up and sanitize my
round eye - imagine a cat eye versus a dog eye. But
yard. I actually do want snakes. I don’t even mind if
I would suggest never to use that distinguishing
some of them are venomous. What I do want to do
factor. Because if you’re looking that closely at a
is discourage them from wanting to hang out in the
snake’s eye, you’re getting way too close and we
same spaces that my dogs and I hang out.
call that natural selection,” Steve said with a laugh.
It’s also important to note that Blue is a very
“But the triangular shape and also the size of
big dog. Copperheads are the least venomous
the head relative to the body,” he continued. “The
snakes and the most treatable when it comes to
constrictors and the snakes like Coachwhips and
encounters with dogs. Things could have been very
Black Racers … any long, skinny snake, for the most
different had Blue been a smaller breed, been bitten
part, is not going to be venomous. If it looks like
on his chest and not his foot, and/or been bitten by
your arm where it has a big head, kind of a little
a rattlesnake that released a full load of venom.
neck and then quickly becomes a stout-bodied snake - probably a good chance it’s venomous.”
There are lots of ways that we were fortunate in this encounter.
“We have one exception to that which is the Coral snake, which is identified by its color pattern: ‘red touches yellow, kill a fellow; red touches black,
a growing food movement poison lack’ … but we don’t want to remember
Center, one of the things that is most gratifying …
rhymes - just leave it alone!” he concluded.
are the people who send me photos on the phone to identify snakes and tell me that because of the Wildlife Center, they are not killing them,” Steve said.
Conclusion - The Only Good Snake is a Living Snake
“That’s a big takeaway!”
When it comes to snakes, there is no reason to fear
head cut off, I realize that there’s still work to be done.”
or hate them across the board.
“And while I don’t ever reprimand anyone,” he continued, “when I’m asked to identify a snake with its
Let’s continue the work in defense of snakes!
Snakes, even venomous ones, are not sitting around plotting your demise! In fact, they simply want to be left alone. Their color and pattern makes
If you want to learn more and get up close up and
them blend in to their surroundings, not so they can
personal at no risk to your health, visit the Center for
spring out at unsuspecting humans, but so that you
Wildlife Education at Georgia Southern University!
won’t know that they’re there at all.
For an informative brochure on Georgia’s snakes and
If you do see a snake, stop, take two steps back and walk away! It really is as simple as that. “Being reflective of my 29 years at the Wildlife
some definitive information on identifying the venomous species, visit Georgia’s DNR site here. For more things that are more likely to kill you than a snake, visit this site.
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Small Farm
Spotlight
I n t h is series, g et t o kn o w mo re a b o u t t h e sma ll far m o p era t io n s t h a t a re u sin g su st a in a b le met h o d s t o help meet t h e lo ca l d ema n d f o r f resh f o o d . An d meet the f a rmers t h a t a re ma kin g it h a p p en !
Jones Creek Farm located in Midway is a small
to do something about it and do something for
family-run farm in its second year of operation
the community. Midway doesn’t have a farm so I
producing high-end soaps, tea blends and seasonal
wanted to start something there because of that.”
produce. “I’ve always been into organically grown produce, I Stephanie Jones runs the farm with her husband
hate that everything you buy at the store is so full
and four children.
of chemicals so that’s kind of what spurred me into this. I wanted to produce as much food as possible
“When I started the farm,” Stephanie explained, “I
- I wanted to be self-sufficient and I wanted to do it
wanted to do things as sustainably as possible. I
in a responsible and resourceful way.”
was frustrated with our food system and I wanted 18
Jacob and Stephanie Jones Photos in this article are provided by Stephanie Jones
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Originally from Portland, Oregon, Stephanie grew
it is so nutrient-dense, I wanted to learn how to
up with gardens as both her grandparents and
grow it here - where it’s not supposed to grow. We
her father were avid gardeners. But since moving
have about 100 trees so far and I want to grow that
to Midway, she has had to learn a lot on her own
number to 600-800 trees. I want to get to the point
through trial and error.
where I can harvest 200 trees every single week and have it on a four week rotation. That’s what I’m
Stephanie currently produces about 30 varieties
working up to.”
of high-end soaps on the farm which is currently the main source of funding for much of the farm’s
In addition to moringa, they also grow hibiscus for
infrastructure. The couple is currently renovating
their teas, of which there are four different blends.
a shed that they plan to use as a commercially licensed kitchen as they have quickly outgrown the limitations of a cottage license. But the thing that really drives Stephanie is the moringa plant!
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“The tea blends kind of just happened by accident,” Stephanie explained. “I was making the hibiscus tea blends for myself and I started posting pictures of the hibiscus plants growing and they were beautiful and people started getting excited about it. I’m like whoa I might need more than three plants then “Moringa is my passion project,” she said. “The
because I want some for myself!”
main focus that has started me on this journey is the fascination with the moringa plant. Because
(con tinued on page 20)
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The ingredients for the teas are grown on the farm
“My goal is to grow 100% of the ingredients for our
as much as possible and they are working toward
teas here on the farm,” she continued. “We’ve even
being able to grow all their own ingredients a few
started with black tea plants - bulong, green, grey
years down the line.
tea, black tea - it’s all grown from the same plant, it’s just different based on how it’s harvested and processed. So we’re experimenting growing black tea plants on the farm so hopefully in the next couple of years we’ll actually have tea.” It was also important for Stephanie to be able to provide fresh produce grown without the use of chemicals for herself and her community in Midway. So, a half acre garden plot is dedicated to annual produce like tomatoes, peppers, squash and herbs.
“The mint, moringa and hibiscus we grow 20
ourselves,” Stephanie said. “Some things I’m not growing here on the farm yet, so I do have to source some of the ingredients for some of the tea blends. One of my favorite blends is the hibiscus raspberry but I can’t produce enough of the raspberry leaves because of the heat.”
The farm also partners with local honey producer, Poet’s Blend. The partnership allows the bees to benefit from 20 acres of land that is not being treated with chemicals and all the plants that grow there, while the farm benefits from having lots of happy pollinators. And, of course, there’s the honey! Due to Covid-related shutdowns to markets last
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year and some lingering unknowns regarding which markets would re-open this year, the family is focusing on growing their farm in 2021. Expanding the space that can be used for planting and preparing their new kitchen and onsite shop, so they will be prepared for growth in 2022. Also on the farm is a small fruit orchard and food forest which will become a source for local fruit in the community including: peaches, figs and mullberries.
Nathan, Alexya, Alison, and Morgan
To shop for soaps and teas visit their website and be sure to follow the farm’s progress on Facebook.
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Chef’s TABLE In some restaurant kitchens, there is a table reserved for special guests who have a privileged dining experience that includes a front row view of the chef at work. This is referred to as the “chef’s table”. In this series, we aim to give our readers a chef’s table experience as we introduce you to some of our area’s chefs and their cuisine with a behind the scenes glimpse into their kitchens and a taste of their fare.
Chef’s Table: The Wyld Dock Bar (Savannah, Georgia) 24
Article by: LeeAnna Tatum
When you bite into a slice of watermelon and are blown away by the flavor that is completely elevated with the addition of a few basic ingredients - you know you’re in for a treat for the rest of your meal! For Executive Chef and co-owner of The Wyld Dock Bar, Tony Seichrist, this dish (called “sliced watermelon” on the menu) epitomizes his approach to food - source great ingredients, treat them simply and let them shine! Seichrist, an Atlanta native, learned to appreciate
up hunting and fishing which helped him develop
quality ingredients cooked well from his earliest
a close connection to his food sources and an
childhood experiences. He learned to cook at a
appreciation for good food.
young age from his mother who often utilized fresh ingredients from the garden. He also grew
Siechrist was 20 when his love of cooking took him
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to a professional kitchen where he offered to work
“We came down here and fell in love with it. It has a
for free for the chance to learn.
lot of challenges based on the location, you can see the ocean is about three feet away,” Siechrist said,
“I went and found the best chef I could while I was
gesturing to the water. “And it ends up in our front
in Athens - Hugh Acheson who is pretty damn
yard a lot. I pulled an eel out of my office once,” he
famous now - and I said I’ll work for you for free
said with a laugh, “… it was still alive.”
until you hire me. He said ok and about a month in, he hired me!”
“It’s a strange place to have a restaurant,” he continued, “but it’s amazing. We’re in our
In addition to working at a number of top
environment quite literally. This is more like a boat
restaurants in Georgia, Siechrist spent a year in Italy
that doesn’t move than it is a building at this point.
at culinary school.
We have a lot of fun challenges like hurricanes, but
“After that, I was the Head Chef at Greyfield Inn
it’s totally worth it. I wouldn’t trade it for anything!”
for a bit, on Cumberland Island, and that kind of
Due to the location, the vibe is decidedly casual
reignited my love for the lowcountry,” Siechrist
(dining is almost exclusively outdoors with the
explained. “When I was kid, we visited Fripp Island a lot and I always loved Beaufort and all the coastal towns and it felt like a great place.” When The Wyld Dock location became available,
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Siechrist and his business partner Brad Syfan were actively looking for a restaurant location. They purchased, renamed, rebranded and revamped the restaurant (formerly Bonna Bella) about seven years ago. exception of a very small indoor dining space) and seafood is featured prominently on the seasonallyinfluenced menu. “Our clientele is really diverse,” Siechrist explained, “we get a little bit of everybody, because our menu is super laid back and super approachable, I don’t think we fall into any kind of particular category. We do a lot of the work of a fine-dining restaurant, but I don’t think we feel that way. You can get off your boat and walk in without your shoes on, so we’re sort of this weird hodgepodge of fine dining and (con tinued on page 26)
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very casual dining and I think that speaks to literally
“What that means for us - we take responsibility for
everybody.”
our own products as much as possible … we do as much of our own sourcing as we can.” “We have a great pork producer down here, Brandon from Grassroots, we love him to death - he does a great job,” Siechrist continued. “I think we buy John of Comfort Farms out of ground beef all the time. They work with dairies and it’s dairy farm beef - it’s a totally different product. The quality of that beef (coming from an older animal) is very different, it has a lot more beefy flavor … For our purposes, it’s ground and it makes an excellent beefy burger ... For us it’s perfect.”
Siechrist is committed to sourcing the best ingredients he can find and puts in a lot of work to establish relationships with local producers and purveyors. 26
“It’s a lot of legwork, more than anything, that is required if you want to source locally,” he explained. “Obviously seafood is our prime thing, so we spend a lot of time working with local fishermen, local purveyors that are sourcing locally. We get our shrimp from Dubberly’s right off the boat.” Having those local sources served the restaurant well during the food shortages experienced elsewhere during 2020. “We had our sources stabilized when everyone else was freaking out,” Siechrist said. “That wasn’t why we sourced locally but it was a happy accident. A lot of how I feel about big food is that it’s sort of dangerous in a way - it destabilizes us ... and makes everyone reliant on the same systems and that’s inherently dangerous.” “I love the idea of having that food security by
a growing food movement
having these well-
product we can and do as little to it as possible.
diversified systems
And there you go! That’s kind of who we are.”
and having a lot of people to call on,
I visited The Wyld Dock Bar with my sister and
and they also have a
Southern Soil’s Art Director, Kelly White. We went
better product.”
on a weekday (thankfully cooler than average) afternoon in June. With a fan and a breeze and a
“Our philosophy here
beautiful view of the water from the back deck, we
is to get the best
enjoyed an array of items from the menu. I already mentioned the watermelon (which is not something I would have expected to earn a mention at all, if I’m being honest). Everything was very well prepared with a few simple ingredients and great attention to detail. I especially enjoyed the special of the day which was a whole fried flounder that was (con tinued on page 28)
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absolutely delicious. The presentation of the whole fish was beautiful and appetizing and it tasted every bit as good as it looked! Kelly, who has tried fish tacos from quite a few Savannah area restaurants, thought the Local Adobo Fish Tacos we had were the best she’d ever eaten. Prices are very reasonable and the menu is not complicated, making it a great spot for a casual lunch or an evening out. The views are great and there’s a sense that the fresh seafood practically
it’s hard to find or out of the way, just not on the beaten path. Which makes it almost have the feel of a private club - if you’re there, you must be in the know! Accessible by land or sea, no matter how you arrive at the Wyld Dock Bar - you’ll be glad you’re there. For more information including their menu with pricing, check out their website.
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jumps straight from the water to your plate … after a short and much appreciated detour through the kitchen, of course! And as the name implies, there is a well-stocked bar to help quench your thirst! The Wyld is not a place you’ll likely stumble on by accident, so if you’re there it’s most likely that you arrived on purpose! That’s not to say that
Southern
SOIL
a growing food movement
The State of the Magazine Follow our progress!
a growing food
movement
by LeeAnna Tatum It’s hard to believe, but we are halfway into our fourth year of publication for Southern Soil! Our first issue was published in 2018 and we have produced 18 more issues since then. Let me start by introducing myself. My name is LeeAnna Tatum and I am the founder, editor and publisher of Southern Soil. I also write much of the content, manage our social media, sell advertising … well, you get the idea. But by no means am I doing this alone. My talented sister, Kelly White, is a graphic designer with a couple of decades of experience to her credit. She is more than simply the Art Director for
Southern Soil; she has been incredibly supportive of my dream and my vision, and more importantly, she has brought her own passion to the business with her commitment to helping small business owners build their brand identity. I was also very fortunate to meet with Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser in the early stages of developing the magazine. She has been such an enthusiastic supporter since that very first day and I’m so grateful for the voice she brings to the local food conversation. When I first approached her about the possibility (con tinued on page 30)
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of writing for the magazine, I told her that I needed someone to fill the “fun extrovert” void in the content that I knew I would never be able to fill! And she has done a great job of doing that over the years. I have also really enjoyed the collaboration with the wonderful people of the Coastal Plains Chapter of the Georgia Native Plant Society. They have put in a lot of effort to share with us their knowledge and appreciation for our local plant life. I’ve learned so much through their articles and I always look forward to reading them.
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I’m so grateful to have had a number of fantastic contributors who have each brought their own unique perspective to the table and have enriched the conversation immensely. Thank you to each of you! Though Southern Soil is not yet financially sustainable (it is not earning enough advertising revenue to cover the annual expenses including any salaries), we continue to bring the stories of our local food systems because of the support of our faithful advertisers! I cannot thank them enough for the support they have shown over the years. Not only helping this fledgling small business, but also paying it forward by helping so many other small businesses in our communities get the attention they deserve through our articles and content.
The Sentient Bean in Savannah, Halyards Restaurant Group on St Simons, Way Green in Waycross and my local bank, The Claxton Bank came on board as advertisers when we were just getting off the ground and were building our audience from scratch. Georgia Sea Grill, Brighter Day and Down South House and Home have been amazing in their support as well. And our 2021 feature article sponsors are awesome: The Salt Table, Exclusive Engravings and Longwood Plantation. For every business that placed even one ad with us over the years, know that it has made an impact and we are grateful! We hope it was a positive and prosperous experience for you. If you have a business in the area (we cover 46 counties), I would love to discuss advertising opportunities with you and let you know how we can help you connect with some pretty awesome conscientious consumers who love supporting local businesses! By advertising with us, you not only promote your own business but you are also helping other small businesses here in Southeast Georgia and you’re making a positive influence on the local economy and the local environment. I truly believe it’s a win-win-win arrangement, because a stronger, more sustainable community benefits us all. It has been my privilege to meet, interview, get to know and work with
a growing food movement
some truly remarkable people over the past three and a half years and to get a good look at our local food systems. When I was first looking into starting this magazine, I honestly didn’t know if I would find enough to write about to fill one issue! But here I am well into my fourth year and I find that nearly every encounter opens the door to another avenue of discovery. It’s easy to get discouraged here in Southeast Georgia when it comes to local food. Many of us (certainly including myself in this) live in rural areas where fresh local food is hard to find. Conventional farming is still King here and it is evident at every turn.
own backyards. In Southeast Georgia, we can grow blueberries almost without even trying. We have access to a vast array of seafood right off our shores. Our long growing season makes us vulnerable to weeds and pests but also provides ample temperate weather for growing food all year long. And pasture-raised animals thrive in our climate (with adequate accommodations). The pandemic brought many flaws within the US food system to light and made people sit up and take notice. Many, for the first time in their lives, started looking at where their food actually comes from and weren’t too happy with what they saw. And many turned to local supplies when their usual sources fell through. While some of those people simply returned to shopping as usual once supply lines were restored, others who had experienced local food for the first time out of necessity have chosen to continue sourcing locally. (con tinued on page 32)
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Commercial chicken houses, row after row of commodity crops, few grocery stores, even fewer farmers’ markets. People looking at you like you might just be from Mars if you mention words like “organic”, “sustainable” or “pasture raised.” But I want you to know that you should take heart! There is hope. There are more people than you probably imagine that are out here everyday in your communities working hard to improve our local food. People who, just like you, know that there is a better way to bring food to the table. People who also understand the unique and critical connection between food, body, spirit and the soil itself. Over the years, I have learned that we have an amazingly diverse food system right here in our
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I honestly believe that the more people know about our current industrialized system and the more they learn about how different some of our local farmers are doing things, the more they will choose to support farms that are using sustainable, regenerative and humane methods. And that’s why I continue to do what I do. To educate and encourage consumers to think about the real-world consequences that their food purchases have. And to encourage those working hard to change our food system that the work they are doing is not in vain and they are not alone! But Southern Soil was never intended to be a one way street. It’s meant to be a platform - a table, if you will - to gather people together to have important conversations about food and sustainability. This is where you come in!
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I feel that in many ways, we are right on target where I would want us to be. We have established ourselves in Southeast Georgia and are putting out quality content and growing our audience every day. Which is great! But I want more. I want more engagement. I want more input. I want more give and take.
a growing food movement
I want Southern Soil to go from being a good source of information, to being an essential tool in the growing local food movement. That’s what Southern Soil has always been about for me - growing the local food movement! That’s why I have included on our website a directory of local sustainable farms. I use the term “sustainable” to describe any farm that is not using chemical fertilizers/pesticides/herbicides, not engaging in confined animal feeding operations, using humane husbandry methods with livestock, and working toward improving the life and health of the soil on which they farm. Some of these farms are certified by different organizations, some are not. Some refer to themselves as regenerative or organic or sustainable. Some use integrated pest control or hydroponic growing systems or certified organic inputs, or integration of livestock. But they all are committed to growing food that is healthier for our
bodies and for the earth than what our conventional farming is doing. And I’m all for that. As a consumer myself, I wanted to create the website that I was looking for. I wanted ONE place where I could find farms near me that were producing the kind of foods I wanted to eat. But what I found was that I had to look through lots of different websites because the sites that listed farms only listed the farms that were members of their organization. An organization those farms had to pay to be a part of. And as a consumer, I was not interested in what membership fees a farm could afford. And as a champion of small businesses, I was not interested in creating yet another site that would require fees in order to be included.
(con tinued on page 3 4)
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So, our directory exists to help consumers find farms near them that are doing their best to grow great food without causing harm to (and in fact most often helping) the environment, using humane animal husbandry practices, and refraining from the use of harmful chemicals. I also wanted a site that would help me find restaurants that source their foods from the same kinds of farms that I do. So, I included them as well! I feel like this is one area of Southern Soil that has not been utilized to its fullest potential. I would like this directory to be comprehensive and to stay up to date. For this, I need your help! I am just one person and can’t possibly discover all the farms and restaurants that should be listed on this directory. So, please feel free to contact me and let me know if there is a place that should be added or perhaps that doesn’t need to be included any longer.
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That about sums up where we are! Where are we headed? Look for us to continue our coverage of local farms and restaurants and sustainable businesses! We are definitely growing and we are excited to continue to reach more people and share more perspectives. Here are a few things that you can do (right now!) that won’t cost you a dime and will help us tremendously as we work hard to help grow our local food movement! 1. Go to our homepage! If you have not already signed up for our email list, you should be prompted to do so (if not, there is a “subscribe” link that you can click on). You will NOT be spammed by us with loads of emails. By the time I have written and published the magazine, I’m all wrote out (written out? Writ out?) … I’m done. I am trying to work up to sending out two
emails per month, right now I send out about 6 per year. I will not be flooding your inbox. 2. Follow us on Facebook and Instagram 3. ENGAGE on Facebook and Instagram. Unless you yourself run a business and must administer social media accounts, you may not be aware that it has become increasingly difficult for small businesses to communicate with their followers on social media. I won’t go into all the details, but here’s the takeaway - if you don’t engage with a page (i.e. react to posts by “liking” “loving” … yada, yada; comment on posts; or share posts) you will stop seeing posts from that page on your newsfeed. Even if you have liked and followed that page - the content will simply not make it into your life unless you actually go to that page and look at it intentionally. So here’s what I do when I’m scrolling .... I react to pretty much everything I see in my newsfeed that was posted by a small business that I know. I do that because I know it helps them reach more people and it costs me absolutely nothing but the move of a finger on a screen. 4. SHARE our magazine links. If you enjoy the content we offer in our digital magazine, please share it! There is a chance that a friend or family member will also get something good out of it and it helps us get the word out and increase our audience. And it’s FREE. 5. Provide feedback! I’d love to hear from you. I’d like to know if you like what you’re getting. I’d like to know if you’d like to get something a little different. Do you have a great story idea? Let me know. Do you yourself have something important to say? Let me know. I’m an introvert, so I don’t often say “the more, the merrier”; but in this case I do! The more input, the better.
a growing food movement
The more voices we can have at the table, the better the conversation. Add your voice! 6. If you have a brick and mortar location or regularly set up a booth at farmers’ markets or pop-up markets and would like to share Southern Soil with your customers, please send me an email and request some information cards. I will happily get some to you!
If you read the magazine and would like to help financially, please consider donating the amount of your favorite print subscription or entertainment service subscription. If we had even $10 from
everyone who reads the magazine, it would make a tremendous impact on our ability to continue this work. I’ve established a GoFundMe account to make it simple to donate, but if you’d prefer donating with a different method, please send us an email: info@ southernsoil.org.
Thank you so much for being a part of this journey!
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Chickasaw plum flowers appear in early spring. Photo: Heather Brasell
a growing food movement
Native Plant Highlight: Chickasaw Plum prunus angustifolia
By Mary Alice Applegate maapple@mac.com
This article is courtesy of the Coast Plain Chapter of the Georgia Native Plant Society. The GNPS is dedicated to promoting the stewardship and conservation of Georgia’s native plants and their habitats. The Coastal Plain Chapter serves the people in the Coastal Plain ecoregion of Georgia. This includes all areas south of the Fall Line in middle Georgia, from the Alabama and Florida borders to the Atlantic ocean. To learn more, please visit their website.
How many of you remember picking and eating
or mountain cherry. A long-lived perennial, it can
wild plums growing on the road side in early
grow up to 25 feet tall and produces suckers
summer? Most likely, you were enjoying this tart
to form dense thickets. The leaves are simple,
native treat!
alternate, having blades with acute tips, up to 2.4” long, by .8” wide. The margins are finely
Chickasaw plum / Prunus angustifolia is a
serrated and each tooth has a tiny red gland on
popular plant for developing wildlife habitat,
the tip.
37
but it also is a favorite for making wine, jellies and preserves. This species is one of several
The plant was cultivated by the Chickasaw
native wild plums that you see in thickets along
Indians and other indigenous peoples who
roadsides and overgrown fields.
consumed it fresh or dried it for winter, long before colonists arrived. In William Bartram’s
The taste may be too tart and acidic to be really
travels through the southeastern U.S. in the late
enjoyed in their raw state, but you can make a
18th century, he wrote that “he never saw the
beautiful and tasty bright red jelly using simple
Chickasaw plum wild in the forests but always in
recipes found on the internet. Real aficionados
old deserted Indian plantations.” He hypothesized
may make wine using some minimal wine-
that the Chickasaw Indians brought it from the
making equipment and ingredients.
Southwest beyond the Mississippi River. Flowers appear in early spring, before the leaves.
Description The Chickasaw plum is a deciduous shrub or small tree in the Rosaceae (rose) family. It is also commonly known as sand plum, sandhill plum,
Flowers have five petals and are bisexual, about 1/2” in diameter, white, in umbels of 2-4 flowers. The branches are thorny and slender. The fruit forms yellow or red drupes which are round and 1/4” to 1/2” in diameter. They mature in early (con tinued on page 38)
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summer and are edible though they contain
an acid pH, but will grow in a wide range of
a large stone. It should be noted that though
soil types. It can be propagated by seed, the
poison severity is low - the stems, leaves and
harvest of suckers, and by cuttings. Cuttings
seeds contain cyanide and should not be eaten.
taken from semi-hardwood and softwood in summer are the easiest to root. Germination of most seeds requires cold stratification.
Benefits in Home Landscape Though they are part of the rural landscape in much of the southern and south central United States, you may consider planting one as a specimen or several for an informal hedge, windbreak, or for erosion control. To keep the plant in check in a small space, prevent unwanted
When ripened, Chickasaw plum fruit can be eaten fresh 38
spread by removing the suckers.
or made into jellies, preserves or other desserts. Photo: John Ruter, University of Georgia, Bugwood.org
Its white flowers are beautiful in the spring. Insects and disease may occasionally attack this species,
Native Habitat
but are not a
Habitats (in USDA zones 5a - 8b) include open
serious problem
woodlands, woodland edges, forest openings, savannas, prairies, plains, meadows, pastures, fence rows and roadsides. In full sun, it will be denser and fuller and will colonize more thickly. In part shade, it will be more airy and will colonize more loosely.
in conservation settings. Commercial plantings of plum may require the control of the primary insect pest,
Basic Care Chickasaw plum prefers loose, sandy soil and uses little water, once established. It prefers
plum curculio (Conotrachelus nenuphar ).
Chickasaw plum flowers appear in early spring. Photo: Heather Brasell
a growing food movement
Chickasaw Plum is a thicket-forming small tree with thorny side branches. Photo: Karan Rawlins, University of Georgia, Bugwood.org
References Kirckman, L. K., Brown, C. L., and Leopold, D. L., 2018. Native Trees of the Southeast: An Identification Guide. 291 pp. Timber Press, Portland, OR. Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center: https://www. wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=pran3
Wildlife Benefit Birds, squirrels and other animals eat the fruit, and the thorny thicket of Chickasaw plum is valuable for songbird and game bird nesting. Chickasaw plums are of special value to native bees. It also provides nectar and is a larval host plant for several species of butterflies, including coral hairstreak (Satyrium titus), eastern tiger swallowtail (Papilio glaucus), spring azure (Celastrina laden),
Mellenchamp, L. 2014. Native Plants of the Southeast: A Comprehensive Guide to the Best 460 Species for the Garden. 251 pp. Timber Press, Portland, OR. North Carolina Extension Gardener Tool Box: https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/prunusangustifolia/#poison University of Florida UF / IFAS Gardening Solutions. https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/ plants/trees-and-shrubs/trees/chickasaw-plum. html
viceroy (Limenitis archippus), and red-spotted
USDA NRCS Plant Fact Sheet. https://plants.usda.
purple (Limenitis anthemis astyanax).
gov/factsheet/pdf/fs_pran3.pdf
ISSUE ~ 3 ~ 2021
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Photo courtesy of Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser
a growing food movement
Some Kinda Good in the Neighborhood by Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser is the author of the best-selling memoir “Some Kinda Good.” Featured in Forbes, on Food Network and ABC, she writes about Southern, coastal cuisine, locally sourced and in-season. Connect with her on social media by liking Some Kinda Good on Facebook, or follow @SKGFoodBlog on Instagram and Twitter. To learn more, visit RebekahLingenfelser.com.
Fresh Food Collaboration and Recipe Inspiration Good things come to those who collaborate.
shop your local farmers’ market or sign up for Local
Southern Soil magazine and Local Farm Bag
Farm Bag Savannah, and get cookin’.
Savannah have hooked me up! If you follow Some Kinda Good on social media, Of course, if you’re reading this, you know Southern
you may have seen my first farm bag delivery
Soil magazine well. If you’ve not been introduced
unbagging. I went live on Facebook to unpack it,
to Local Farm Bag Savannah, it is a must. Quite
and boy, was it amazing. It was like Christmas in
simply, Local Farm Bag Savannah is practically a
the heart of summertime. I discovered a never-
mobile farmers’ market delivering the finest locally
ending bag filled with healthy,
grown produce directly to your doorstep each and
high-quality, interesting food,
every week. I had the great privilege of experiencing
and I never even had to leave the
this for the first time recently, and I’m happy to
house. My bag was filled with a
share that I’ll be consistently showcasing these
fresh loaf of ciabatta, mangos,
Georgia-grown ingredients with you, featuring
cantaloupe, romaine lettuce,
what’s in season now in my recipes right here in
Corno di Toro red peppers, corn
Some Kinda Good in the Neighborhood. As y’all
on the cob, peaches, and a
know, my style of cooking is right along those lines
bunch of little green tomatillos.
anyway - Southern, coastal cuisine locally sourced
This produce not only provided
and in season. Thank you to LeeAnna Tatum and
a burst of inspiration for me
the team at Southern Soil, as well as Erik from
in the kitchen, but hours of
Local Farm Bag Savannah, for this awesome
entertainment for the chef that I
partnership. I can’t wait to share Some Kinda Good
am.
recipes with you, and I hope you’ll be inspired to
(con tinued on page 4 2)
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I’ve made mango salsa to top off grilled chicken,
cooking or weeknight dinners. Top it off with
salsa verde, grilled romaine with charred lemon,
fragrant basil from the garden and freshly grated
roasted red peppers and squash with dill butter,
parmesan cheese.
and even used the tart salsa verde as a sauce for tossing pasta. That’s the recipe I’m sharing today:
Be sure to visit SomeKindaGood.com or check out
Tomatillo Tricolor Tortellini with Shrimp. With
my best-selling memoir with recipes for more on
cheese-filled, colorful pasta, and a tangy salsa
what’s local and in season now.
verde, this dish is perfect for easy summertime
Salsa Verde
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Mango Salsa
a growing food movement
Tomatillo Tricolor Tortellini One recipe for tomatillo salsa verde (about 2 cups)
with
Shrimp
Cook pasta according to package directions. Drain. In a large bowl, toss pasta with salsa verde and
•
1 pound tricolor tortellini pasta
set aside. Season shrimp with salt and pepper. In a
•
1 pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
medium saucepan over medium heat, add olive oil.
•
2 cloves garlic, sliced
Saute garlic for 30 seconds. Add shrimp and cook
•
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
for 2 - 3 minutes until pink. Remove from the heat
•
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
and add shrimp mixture to pasta. Add cheese and
•
1 cup Parmesan cheese, freshly grated
fresh basil. Toss to combine. Taste for seasoning.
•
1 bunch fresh basil
Add salt and pepper if needed. Enjoy!
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Photos in this article are courtesy of Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser
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orm w k oo B e
reading the best and weeding the rest REVISITING LOCAL FOOD BOOKS BY LOCAL AUTHORS I love reading books about food and food systems - books on permaculture, books on food justice, cookbooks, books about gardening - well, you get the idea! The Bookworm is my opportunity to share with you the good books that I read and let you know a little about them so you can decide if you’d like to read them too. In this edition of Bookworm, I’m sharing three reviews of books from local authors that we’ve featured so far. Buy a great book and support a local author, you can’t beat that. 44
In her book The Seed Underground: A Growing Revolution
it’s also essential
to Save Food, Janisse Ray discusses the vital work that
to preserve the
seed savers are doing to protect our food sources and
cultural heritage
biodiversity.
that is integrally connected to the
In her conversational approach to storytelling, Ray conveys
seed.
the dire impact that corporations have had on our collective seed supply, not only through genetic modification and
Ray’s book acts
patenting but also through the process of selecting to
as a seed itself,
preserve seeds that work well commercially regardless of
holding within
other considerations (like a little thing called taste).
it the spark of life and
But thankfully there are still those among us who are
hope that lies
working diligently to save a wide variety of heirloom plants
ready to take
through the process of seed saving - which requires a great
root within
deal of seed planting and growing as well!
the reader,
Ray has traveled the country to meet with a few of this quirky cast of characters and shares their stories and those of their seeds; conveying the message that not only is it important to protect biodiversity through seed saving but
germinating the desire to protect our plant heritage, and cultivating the need to put hands in soil and take part in the revolutionary act of gardening.
In her book Some Kinda Good: Good Food and Good Company, That’s What It’s All About, Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser shares her
a growing food movement
enthusiasm for food, the South and Coastal living. To quote myself as it says on the back cover, “Rebekah’s delectable writing invites readers to relax in a rocking chair on the front porch and sip on a tall glass of iced tea while she serves up stories of Southern hospitality and food traditions. Her book is the perfect recipe of personal experiences blended with cooking tips and life lessons, seasoned with her own blend of Southern sass.” This book is part memoir and part cookbook. From unexpected job loss to dream opportunities on the Food Network, learn about the people and places that have inspired Rebekah on her food journey as she unabashedly pursues her dream!
Bress ‘N’ Nyam: Gullah Geechee Recipes from a Sixth Generation Farmer written by Matthew Raiford with Amy Paige Condon takes readers through Raiford’s culinary journey: from a childhood surrounded by good cooks to his military career and exposure to cuisines and food traditions around the world and back to his deep roots on the family farm and Gullah Geechee heritage. “Bress ‘N’ Nyam” is Gullah for “bless and eat” which gets right to the heart of Raiford’s family food traditions. Peppered with personal stories with heaps of cultural and historical references, this cookbook provides a deep look into the cuisine of Coastal Georgia - Southern cooking that goes way beyond stereotypical foods like fried chicken (but there’s a 2-day recipe for that too!). Raiford goes back to his roots with recipes like Blackberry Doobie, a cobbler his Nan would make using fresh-picked blackberries foraged from around the family farm; and weaves in recipes and techniques picked up along the way like Snapper on the Half Shell. Organized in categories by their elemental source, the book is divided into sections: earth, water, fire, wind, nectar and spirits. Raiford’s recipes range from rustic to sophisticated and simple (3-ingredient biscuits) to complicated (how to host a pig roast). Bress ‘N’ Nyam welcomes the reader into Raiford’s personal S S U Eculture. ~ 3 ~ 2021 history with food and provides a valuable perspective into the South’s rich and variedI food
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