Bureau of Taste

The Bureau of Taste Vol. 5

www.souschef.co.uk

2023

Have You Eaten? Deliciously Simple Asian Cooking for Every Mood by Verna Gao is published by DK, £20. Photography: Lizzie Mayson FIND THE RECIPE AT: souschef.co.uk/bureau-of-taste-print

VERNA GAO’S CHEESECAKE • DR RUPY’S VEGAN FEAST • NEW JAPANESE KUTANI WARE • ALEXINA ANATOLE’S CUPBOARD STAPLES • Q&A WITH EMIKO DAVIES • EXTRAORDINARY GIFT IDEAS • FOODIE CROSSWORD • FRENCH ARTISAN KNIVES • CHRISTMAS LIQUORICE

Recipe

Entertainment

Interview

Matcha Burnt Basque Cheesecake

Can You Complete The Sous Chef Crossword?

Emiko Davies On The Food Of Her Childhood

P.2

www.souschef.co.uk

2023

Interview

‘Gohan’

by Emiko Davies

Australian-Japanese cook and writer Emiko Davies has lived in many countries across the world. Her home is currently between Florence and Pisa, where she hosts cookery classes and workshops. She has written several cookbooks inspired by the food of Florence and Tuscany. Her new book Gohan is an exploration of the Japanese recipes of her childhood.

WHICH BOOKS, WRITERS AND CHEFS HAVE INFLUENCED YOU OVER YOUR LIFE?

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE INGREDIENT TO COOK WITH RIGHT NOW?

The first cookbooks I fell in love with were Tessa Kiros’ books. I love how she wove stories about a place using the recipes, along with evocative photographs of food and places.

I am having a moment with colatura di Alici, which is basically the fish sauce of Italy. It’s an ancient preparation, where fresh anchovies are layered with salt in special barrels and the liquid that drips out is what is collected. It is extremely flavourful, you only need a few drops in a pasta dish or as part of a salad dressing to take the whole thing to another level!

[Try Colatura di Alici for yourself, from Sous Chef]

When I started my own food writing career, I really loved reading old cookbooks — Alice B Toklas, Elizabeth David and Patience Gray, for example. Theirs were cookbooks without any pictures that transported you instantly through the food and the writing.

I would take these books to read like novels before I even cooked anything out of them. More recently, I was also very inspired by Hetty McKinnon’s cookbook To Asia with Love, where McKinnon shares stories and recipes from her Chinese family.

WERE YOU ALWAYS DESTINED TO COOK? Ever since I was a child I’ve always loved cooking (and eating, I think those things go hand in hand) and I love working with my hands.

Cooking I think came very naturally to me because it’s such a creative process and I am a creative person — I ended up studying Fine Art and art restoration before turning to cooking and food writing and I think that for me they are actually all related, they’re all things that let me work with my hands.

I loved the aspect of preservation in my art restoration work and the idea of preserving recipes and stories and passing them on has always been very appealing.

ANY RECENT DISCOVERIES YOU CAN SHARE WITH US?

quite fluffy (a bit like whipping egg whites) and then you can just eat it on top of rice, or mix in other favourite ingredients. You can stir it into miso soup (it loses some of its stickiness that way) or top it with a fried egg! I have a cousin who cooks it with minced pork and garlic chives — delicious.

WHERE DO YOU FIND INSPIRATION? I like to look into a dish that has a story to tell, especially if it is a story that people don’t know well.

I also really appreciate a dish that can talk about a place or vice versa. Often it might just be a trip to a new place I haven’t been before to taste something new that sparks my curiosity.

Natto (Japanese fermented soy beans) is one of those things that is either loved or hated, even in Japan. But it is incredibly good for you, and I have to say I have fallen in love with its flavour, which is something I’d describe as reminiscent of Vegemite.

I have grown up with natto in the house, my mother and sister love them, but I realised I had never really revisited trying them after a failed attempt as a child (this is why things need to always be tried again and again!).

So last year I finally tried natto again.

I interviewed all my family members who love it, seeking their favourite ways to eat it so I could try them. The thing I love about it (other than how I think of my family as I eat it) is that it can be eaten so many different ways — you should flavour it with hot mustard and soy sauce, and mix it really well until it is

GOHAN: Everyday Japanese Cooking by Emiko Davies (Smith Street Books, £26) Photography: Yuki Sugiura

Chef Favourites

Inside MasterChef Finalist Alexina Anatole’s Cupboard Alexina Anatole started her career on a trading floor in the City of London. But an obsession with food was always present. In the last year of her twenties she decided that she was finally ready to enter MasterChef. Weeks of competing resulted in her reaching the final of the 2021 season, coming runner up to champion Thomas Rhodes.

1. Date Syrup

The competition led her to realise that she might actually have a talent for cooking but, more importantly, it helped her to better understand her philosophy around food and flavour.

cranberries, tea, coffee, cocoa and liquorice - each recipe will expand your repertoire!

Her new cookbook ‘Bitter’ is a celebration of bitter ingredients, and how to use them. From grapefruit and bitter oranges, bitter greens, tahini, beer, walnuts,

Here are the Sous Chef ingredients she always has in her cupboards:

2. Tajin Chile & Lime

3. Valrhona Cocoa Powder

4. Orange Blossom Water

‘Bitter’ by Alexina Anatole is published by Square Peg. Photographer Yuki Sugiura.

5. Dried Shiitake Mushrooms

6. Abido Mahleb Powder 7. La Brujula Sardines

8. Wild Fennel Pollen

P.3

www.souschef.co.uk

2023

Recipe

Matcha Burnt Basque Cheesecake

by Verna Gao "If you asked a room full of people to name their favourite dessert, chances are a fair number would say a good cheesecake. I don’t blame them – what’s not to love about the combination of cream, cheese and sugar?

The first time I made a burnt Basque cheesecake, it was for a first date. We’d agreed to go on a picnic for the occasion and he casually mentioned, as he listed all the things he was going to bring, that he was coeliac.

NEW PUGLIAN SPLATTER CERAMICS

INGREDIENTS 400g cream cheese 145g caster sugar 2 large eggs 300ml double cream ½ tsp vanilla extract 3 tbsp gluten-free cornflour 1 tbsp good-quality matcha tea powder pinch of salt

Preheat the oven to 220ºC/200ºC fan/425ºF/Gas 7.

Line the base and sides of a deep loose-bottomed 18cm cake tin with 2 large sheets of baking paper, one of the sheets turned at 45 degrees, so the corners point in different directions. Next, press the paper into the tin and fold over any paper protruding above the rim of the cake tin – this will help you lift the cheesecake out after baking. Don’t worry about any creases as they add to the character of the cheesecake.

Coincidentally, I’d been meaning to try this cheesecake for ages, and, of course, I did, and it was a big hit. That summer, I spent many hours perfecting the recipe, because my first few attempts weren’t quite as I’d hoped, but I got there in the end.

In a stand mixer or using a hand whisk, manual or electric, combine the cream cheese and sugar in a large mixing bowl until smooth. Add the eggs, one at a time, and mix together thoroughly.

So, here I present to you one of my top desserts to make at home, and a matcha version, just because I love all things matcha. The cheesecake is flourless, meaning it’s perfect for coeliacs and those on a gluten-free diet."

Next, add the cream and vanilla to the cream-cheese mixture and whisk until everything is well combined, scraping down the sides a few times with a spatula to help.

Mix the cornflour, matcha powder and salt together in a bowl, then gradually sift the mixture into the cream mixture and fold it in making sure there are no lumps and it’s well incorporated.

Matcha powder can be lumpy, so sifting it with the cornflour helps to achieve an ultra-smooth consistency.

Pour the matcha mixture into the prepared cake tin, tap the tin on the work surface to make sure there are no air bubbles and level the top.

Just arrived! We’re excited to reveal new and bespoke colours of our splattered Puglian ceramic range for 2023.

Discover our new dark green (perfect for Christmas tablescaping) plus a bespoke blend of lilac and orange.

Sous Chef’s plates, pasta bowls, pitchers and egg cups are all made by hand in Puglia, meaning each piece is unique.

These new colours join our existing range of red, blue, black and yellow. Look out for a choice of large mugs too - perfect for a warming tea after a long walk, as the weeks get chillier.

Or use to serve mulled wine around the campfire.

JAPANESE KUTANI WARE

Bake the cheesecake for 30–45 minutes, depending on your oven. I always start with 30 minutes to check how much colour there is on top – you want it to look fairly dark and puffed up like a soufflé. Insert a skewer into the centre to check the cheesecake is ready; the middle should be a little runny when fully cooked but not too wet. If you gently shake the tin from side-to-side, the cheesecake should have a slight wobble, but will firm up once cool and continue to set in the refrigerator.

Continue to bake the cheesecake for a further 10–15 minutes if it isn’t ready, keeping an eye on it as you go.

Once cooked, remove the cheesecake from the oven and let it cool in the tin to room temperature. It will collapse slightly in the middle as it cools.

Have You Eaten?: Deliciously Simple Asian Cooking for Every Mood by Verna Gao is published by DK, £20.

Photography: Lizzie Mayson

You can eat the cheesecake at this stage when still slightly gooey in the middle, or chill in the fridge for a couple of hours until ready to eat.

TOP PICK

Lakrids Christmas Liquorice

New in at Sous Chef! Japanese artisan ceramicists, Seikou, started producing hand-painted porcelain nearly a hundred years ago. The family-owned business is loved in Japan for its kutani style.

Kutani-yaki, or kutani-ware, is a technique that uses thick overglaze, bold colours and hand-painted detail. Kutani-ware pieces are often decorated with flowers, animals and geometric motifs.

Seikou use traditional techniques to create colourful, contemporary crockery that is both beautiful and practical. As well as intricate floral patterns, you'll find playful motifs such as dancing pandas, and charming bluebirds. Use your Seikou tableware to create a richly patterned set, with bold bright colours. Mix and match your favourite motifs, or choose a collection with the same pattern.

ARTISAN FRENCH KNIVES

It’s a moment we look forward to every year. Lakrids Christmas liquorice has landed in our offices!

The Christmas butter cookie liquorice balls are rich with warming cinnamon - a wonderful sweet snack to enjoy all festive season. The sweet, chewy liquorice centre is coated in a creamy dulce chocolate coating, crunchy butter caramel and sweet cinnamon sugar.

Meanwhile Lakrids Christmas Classic – salty caramel chocolate liquorice - is a favourite, with a shimmery Christmas makeover. The sweet liquorice centre is enrobed in creamy Belgian caramel chocolate that’s spiked with salt. Each piece is rolled in a glowing coppery-bronze edible shimmer for a festive feel.

If you’re a liquorice fan, be sure to pick up your Lakrids Advent Calendar for 2023...

Selling fast already!

TO READ MORE VISIT souschef.co.uk/bureau-of-taste-print

The original Laguiole knife dates back to 1829, when a simple folding knife became the talk of the town. And soon the whole country fell in love with these knives for their practicality and elegant, intricate design.

Each knife features a bee or fly decoration on the bolster.

This is not only a nod to Laguiole’s heritage, but also strengthens the knife itself. Some say Napoleon awarded the use of a bee in recognition of Laguiole’s support for the emperor, or for their bravery. However, the stories are disputed and perhaps lost with time…

Each knife is handcrafted from start to finish by just one artisan. Find the new designs at Sous Chef.

P.4 As a small family business, we’re thrilled you’ve ordered from us. Thank you!

www.souschef.co.uk THE SOUS CHEF CROSSWORD #005

ACROSS 2. Indian spiced tea (4) 3. Italian lemon liqueur (10) 6. Mexican toasted tortilla, filled with cheese (10) 7. Dark purple berry, high in antioxidants (4) 9. Fruit, colour (6) 10. American aubergine (8) 14. Chinese dumpling (6) 16. ‘Pocket’ bread (4) 18. Fermented soybean, similar to tofu (6) 19. Filled, rolled cake (7)

I started Sous Chef in 2012 because I couldn’t easily find the ingredients I wanted to cook with.

Today, we have over 6,000 of the world’s finest and most exciting ingredients and cookware under one roof. We’ve won awards. We’re excited to share our inspiration with you.

Welcome to our little bureau… where we bring together our favourite treats and recipes from the last month.

DOWN 1. Italian Christmas bread (9) 3. Large serving spoon (5) 4. Classic pizza style (10) 5. Fresh, green soy beans (7) 8. Crispy lettuce (7) 11. Rotten (6) 12. Small, salted flower bud - used in tartare sauce (5) 13. Indian lentil dish (4) 15. Overnight ___ (4) 17. Vietnamese noodle broth (3)

Happy cooking!

Nicola, Sous Chef Founder

JOY EVERY TIME If for any reason you are not totally satisfied with your order, please contact me and my team who will make it right. hello@souschef.co.uk 0800 270 7591

Lucy, Head of Customer Happiness P.S. Please tag us on Instagram with @souschefuk and #souschefbox – we LOVE to see what you have chosen!

Recipe

PUMPKIN BRAISED IN MILK EMIKO DAVIES “Soy sauce–spiked milk turns into the most delicious, soft curds in this silky sweet pumpkin dish, which seems an unlikely combination considering that milk has not long been a widespread part of Japanese cuisine.

In fact, until the 19th century, milk, like red meat, was taboo.

Actually, milk and dairy products have been around since about the 7th century, but it wasn’t until the Meiji era, when the ban on animal products was officially lifted, that they began to flourish.

By the 1950s, in a postwar recovery effort, milk became a part of the national school lunch program, which helped it become an everyday food.

Today, the place that is synonymous with fresh milk in Japan is Hokkaido, in the far north of the country, which has a climate and land more suitable for dairy farming than the humid, rugged and mountainous regions further south.

JOY EVERYWHERE

牛乳

ミルク

So, this is a rather unusual dish, but it is so delicious.

The small, dark green–skinned kabocha (also known as Japanese pumpkin or squash) with bright orange flesh is best for this recipe because it is wonderfully sweet and nutty with a floury consistency that reminds me of chestnuts.

As it cooks, the edges soften and become incorporated into the creamy dressing. You could use butternut pumpkin (squash) or sweet potato as a substitute, but another reason I love Japanese pumpkin is that you can (and should) eat the skin. I have found the prized Italian pumpkin zucca mantovana is practically identical to a proper kabocha.

Like most simmered dishes in Japanese cuisine, gentle cooking is key, so that the pumpkin does not get mushy. But if you do go too far, have no fear: add a splash of rice wine vinegar and eat it cold the next day.

It’s a rather welcome substitute to creamy potato salad, and I have to admit perhaps my favourite way to have it. This would be ideal in a lunchtime bento box or as a side dish to some grilled fish or meat.”

400g kabocha pumpkin, skin on 180ml milk 1 tablespoon soy sauce 2 teaspoons sugar 2 teaspoons rice wine vinegar

METHOD Chop the pumpkin into small chunks, about 2.5 cm (1 in) long.

Remove the seeds but leave the skin on, which not only adds flavour and creates a nice contrast in colour and texture, but it also will help the pumpkin retain its shape. In a small saucepan, combine all the ingredients except for the vinegar.

Together we are making a difference. So far we have provided meals to nursery school children in Ethiopia, donated to Pakistan to help flood crisis relief, and given medical supplies for children in Ukraine.

SCAN FOR ALL THE RECIPES, PRODUCTS & CROSSWORD ANSWERS!

It’s interesting to note that there are two ways to say milk in Japanese, one is written in kanji characters: gyunyu , while the other is an adaption of the English word, miruku, and so it is written in katakana, the set of characters used only for foreign words: . The difference is that gyunyu is simply whole milk and miruku usually describes a milk product.

INGREDIENTS

With every Sous Chef parcel, something amazing happens in the world. Every time you order with Sous Chef, giving is embedded towards the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), through our partnership with B1G1.

SCAN TO CHOOSE YOUR PARCEL’S IMPACT

2023

GOHAN: Everyday Japanese Cooking by Emiko Davies (Smith Street Books, £26) Photography: Yuki Sugiura

Bring to a simmer and cook gently over a low heat, uncovered, for 10 minutes, then cover with a lid until the pumpkin is soft but not falling apart and the milk has turned into thick, creamy curds, faintly resembling ricotta, about 10 minutes. Serve warm or cold with a splash of rice wine vinegar stirred through, if desired.

CHRISTMAS IS COMING...

DR RUPY’S EXPRESS VEGAN DINNER PARTY

Is it too early to mention? Christmas is a very special time of year for us at Sous Chef - we’ve been looking forward to it for close to a year! We’ve been busy finding artisan products and tableware (from all corners of the world) to bring you an extraordinary Christmas.

"I love one of the recipe tester’s comments on this meal: ‘It was amazing food that looked like you’d been in the kitchen all day when in reality the prep took no time at all!’ That’s exactly how a feast should be.”

Find Dr Rupy’s full recipe for roasted cauliflower and aubergine spread at souschef.co.uk now.

OR GO STRAIGHT TO souschef.co.uk/bureau-of-taste-print

Extraordinary food gifts for 2023 are arriving every day. Scan the QR on the left to find new ideas for your Christmas list.

COOKS by Dr Rupy Aujla (Ebury Press, £22) Photo: David Loftus.