Material Innovations Report 2023

3 Textile Players Spearhead New Era of Sustainable Recycled Cotton

Faux Fur, Real Reach Polartec Launches

Plant-Based OdorFighting Agent

Additive Helps Medical Scrubs Fight Microplastic Pollution

Ganni Ramps Up Material Innovation ‘Arms Race’ with Clothes-FromCarbon Exclusive

Made-in-LA Activewear Uses Microalgae for Moisture-Wicking

55 57 58 60 62 65

Reformation Turns to Tencel For Cool Summer Clothes

MAS Invests in HeiQ’s Cellulose-Based Synthetic Alternative Vaude and UPM Biochemicals in Joint Venture For Bio-based Polyester

Circ Enlists Taiwan Textile Partner to Boost Recycled Lyocell Production

MycoWorks Marks

10 Years With New Product Updates

Cocona Labs Looks Beyond Synthetics

Ambercycle Teams With Bestseller, Tombogo on Regenerated Polyester

*Cotton products are recyclable only in a few communities that have appropriate recycling facilities. †In composting tests, cotton fabric samples underwent a weight loss of approximately 50-77% after 90 days in a composting facility. Li, Lili; Frey, Margaret, Browning, Kristie (2020). Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics. 5 (4). https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/pdf/10.1177/155892501000500406

AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. Service Marks/Trademarks of Cotton Incorporated. © 2023 Cotton Incorporated.

Executive Summary

With each passing day, new ideas, new technologies and new formulations are creating a seismic shift in our marketplace.

Legacy inputs are increasingly making way for more sustainable options as the industry and the consumers that fuel it become ever more conscious of environmental impact.

In that vein, revolutionary ways of using natural ingredients in the textile and apparel field are being brought to market at a rapid rate. From the banana leaf to coffee grounds to algae, a whole ecosystem is being created around taking what was once considered waste and utilizing it anew.

Perhaps the biggest challenge being faced by these nascent breakthroughs (besides funding, of course) is the ability to produce at scale, at reasonable cost and actually getting these products into garments, on store shelves and ultimately to the end consumer.

One way this is being tackled is through collaborations. Fast-fashion behemoths H&M and Zara are leading the charge on this crusade, though they are not alone. We take a look at what they’re doing as well as others including Bestseller and Reformation inside this report.

There is also collaboration further upstream, such as the partnership between Recover, Rieter

and Polopiqué, who have combined forces to produce yarns with a higher percentage of mechanically recycled fibers.

Two other fields that have benefited from recent innovations are antibacterial fabrics and thermoregulation properties in garments. The latest endeavors in those categories are covered as well.

PFAS use continues to be a concern and while progress has been made, and legislation passed to prevent it, we are not out of the woods. As the Hohenstein Institute America’s Debbie Chronicle puts it: “Successful phase-out of PFAS in the entire apparel and footwear value chain will only be possible by eliminating their use from all relevant manufacturing processes.”

We’ve also spoken with leading industry executives about what gets them excited and where they feel the largest challenges ahead lie.

As a whole, the rate of progress from a mere decade ago is mind-boggling. This enthusiasm is tempered, however, by the realities of ramping up production levels, bringing pricing in line with legacy inputs and building a consumer appetite. Interesting times indeed.

Peter Sadera Editor in Chief Sourcing Journal

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Ecovative Raises $30M

Ecovative’s last round of funding was used to construct the world’s largest mycelium farm. Its latest funding will get products grown from that mycelium farm into consumers’ hands.

The mycelium technology company announced the initial closing of a Series E round of over $30 million. It said it will reinvest $15 million into its MyForager Foods subsidiary, founded in 2020, with the rest going toward scaling Ecovative’s Forager business offering sustainable textile and foam products. Viking Global Investors led the round, which included Standard Investments, FootPrint Coalition Ventures and AiiM Partners, bringing Ecovative’s total raise to $120 million.

“It’s amazing what mushrooms can do. Ecovative has shown mycelium’s potential across industries, demonstrated productmarket fits that are already addressing the needs of the Earth,” Jon Schulhof, managing partner at Footprint Coalition Ventures, said. “And this is just the beginning, with huge addressable markets and the potential to make real, lasting change for circular manufacturing.”

Mycelium technology has gained popularity in the textile world in the past decade, with dozens of companies from Bolt Threads and MycoWorks to Von Holzhausen spawning mycelium-based

creations as an alternative to animal leather, adopted by the likes of Stella McCarney, Hermès and Ganni. According to Grand View Research, the non-animal leather market is expected to approach $67 billion by 2030. Ecovative said it’s working toward meeting market demand while focusing on commercial and environmental applications using biology to produce high-performing, planetfriendly outputs—including textiles, packaging and food.

“We’re proud of our team, and the immense progress they have made in a short time, rising to the occasion to bring mycelium technology to scale,” Eben Bayer, co-founder and CEO of Ecovative, said. “Our goal is to hack capitalism to support spaceship Earth: building factories that produce clean air, clean water and healthy soil while growing delightful materials that meet everyday needs and produce extraordinary profits.”

Ecovative has entered into product development agreements with over 15 global brands for fashion and footwear, including Ecco Leather and Pangaia, though many are under NDA agreements. It said the new funding should help it have products such as handbags and shoes commercially available by mid-2024.

In March 2021, Ecovative received $60 million in Series D funding from investors, including Viking Global Investors, with support from AiiM Partners, Senator Investment Group, Trousdale Ventures and other undisclosed backers. While that round of funding was used to construct the world’s largest mycelium farm (capable of growing 3 million pounds of mycelium on one acre of land thanks to the company’s AirMycelium technology), this latest round is focused on funding the manufacturing and distribution of its Forager Foams and Hides for use in finished consumer goods like handbags, apparel and footwear. —Alexandra Harrell

Ramping Up Production

The world’s transition to sustainable materials got a boost with the startup of Origin 1, the first ever commercial plant making CMF or chloromethyl furfural.

A chemical building block, CMF is used to build numerous downstream products like para-xylene, the precursor to PET plastic, and FDCA, furandicarboxylic acid, which is used in sustainable products and materials like the next generation polymer, PEF, polyethylene furanoate. Located in Sarnia, Ontario, the plant will also produce HTC, hydrothermal carbon, whose applications include sustainable carbon black for automotive tires.

These are intermediate chemicals and materials that go into a wide range of end uses, including clothing, textiles, plastics, packaging, car parts, tires, carpeting, toys, fuels, among others, with a $1 trillion addressable market. The new plant represents a significant scale-up of Origin’s technology platform for converting sustainable wood residues into versatile intermediate chemicals. Origin Materials is based in West Sacramento, California.

The plant is expected to play a key role in the development of higher-value products and applications for CMF, HTC and other co-products. These highervalue products are expected to be produced and sold at world-scale from future plants, including Origin 2 and Origin 3, and possibly licensed plants. According to John Bissell, co-founder and co-CEO of Origin, the commercialization of a molecule like CMF is historic.

“We are thrilled to be making our intermediates available to industry on a scale never before achieved.”

—Claire Wilson

Ecco Leather x Ecovative mycelium blue roll.

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Material Moves: Experts Share Innovations to Watch

Sustainability is catalyzing changes in the building blocks of apparel, textiles and footwear. Brands and material suppliers are scoping out and developing new or improved materials that are less environmentally harmful while also providing the performance and properties that customers expect.

From alternatives to animal inputs to PFAS-free functional wear, here is the lowdown on the most notable advances in material innovation this year and what to watch next from individuals in the industry.

which we’ve shared in our Green Paper so that other brands can follow suit.

As state policy in California and proposed legislation at the state and federal level have catapulted PFAS into the limelight, and retailer requirements and litigation have maintained the attention, PFAS is and should be at the top of everyone’s minds. We are looking forward to even more PFAS-free water repellency innovations in the years to come.

KIRSTEN BLACKBURN, director of The Keen Effect, Keen

A big focus for Keen has been eliminating PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances), otherwise known as “forever chemicals,” from our supply chain. In 2018, Keen became one of the first footwear companies to remove PFAS from our products, and most recently in 2022, we hit the milestone of removing PFAS from our packaging as well. Critical to this success was using the precautionary principle, which eliminated nearly 65 percent of our PFAS use by removing durable water repellency technology manufactured with PFAS from products that didn’t need water repellency at all, like sandals. For the remaining product necessitating water and dirt repellency, we invested over 11,000 hours of R&D to unlock safe, effective and affordable alternatives,

ALI STAYART, apparel and accessories director, Salomon North America

There have been significant strides made in the integration of sustainability concepts to materials. Whether it is bio-based membranes, regenerative fibers or circular recyclable materials, we have really seen a commercialization of radical sustainable materials and construction within the industry.

The next innovation the industry should be watching for is the plus one in sustainability above and beyond materials.”

ALI STAYART, Salomon North America

The next innovation the industry should be watching for is the plus one in sustainability above and beyond materials. Chemical treatments that affect water resistance or anti-microbial will shift to more eco-friendly and bio-based options, like Noble’s Ionic+ Botanical used in our new Salomon Sense Aero collection in Spring ‘24. Consumer usage of products through rentals and recycling will continue to grow, and brands’ ways of monitoring CO2 impact and efforts to decrease emissions will start to go into full effect as well.

more sustainable farming methods by Pragati, of which Arkema is a founding member. The dress was realized with a technology that knit directly from spools, eliminating waste by using exactly the amount of yarn needed.

Natural Fiber Welding (NFW) introduced a new Mirum x Tencel development this year. The Tencel is traceable through Lenzing’s Fiber Identification technology and, when combined with NFW’s Mirum, is a circular material option within the bio-based leather alternative space. I think it will be exciting to see the evolution and adoption of this material in the market.

Next-gen and low-impact cellulosic-based fibers are ones to keep an eye on, mainly if from agri-waste feedstock. Bioprocessing is greatly progressing, producing materials, dyestuff and auxiliaries, ensuring high properties. The real leading player is again processing technologies able to have high impact that are building up the factories of the future, with high resource efficiency to shift from wet to dry processing in dyeing, treatments and finishing. Green chemistry is glowing—specifically ionic liquids—not new, but finally in the right way.

KEVIN HANRAHAN, chief marketing officer, high performance polymers, Arkema Inc.

Arkema and RadiciGroup unveiled a 100 percent bio-based dress crafted entirely from castor beans. The dress was made of RadiciGroup’s Biofeel Eleven yarn, which is based on Arkema’s Rilsan Polyamide 11. Rilsan PA11, entirely derived from castor beans, reduces carbon emissions by up to 70 percent compared to traditional nylons (PA6, PA6.6). Many of the world’s castor bean growers have been trained to use

In recent years, there have been notable advancements in sustainable and innovative materials. The biggest material breakthrough this year is the launch of Modern Meadow’s Bio-Vera, a novel, sustainable, animal-free biomaterial that looks and naturally ages like traditional leather or suede. This non-woven material is engineered to surpass the strength of leather while delivering the authentic look, feel and wearability of traditional leather. With an extensive range of colors and finishing options, Bio-Vera redefines possibilities in both durability and aesthetics. The potential for

CALLIE CLAYTON, global client relations manager, Spiber

CHRISTIAN TUBITO, Material Innovation Lab director, Kering

CATHERINE ROGGEROLOVISI, CEO, Modern Meadow

highly creative ready-to-wear, footwear and accessories is boundless, as Bio-Vera unlocks endless design possibilities for fashion designers and creators alike.

KATHERINE HOMUTH, CEO, SRTX

Honestly the problem in materials and fashion is that there isn’t enough innovation. I genuinely can’t point to anything new I’ve seen in the last year that I’m really excited about. It’s why we do the work we do.

A. SYDNEY GLADMAN, PH.D., chief scientific officer, Material Innovation Initiative

While fungi, in the form of mycelium leather, took the stage in the early rise of next-gen materials, we see a new trend of innovators harnessing the unique properties of algae and seaweed for skins, fibers and components like coatings and additives. As notable carbon sinks with unique chemical building blocks, this new wave of exploration could create a “sea change” in the next-gen materials industry, producing environmentally preferable alternatives to silk, wool, leather, petro-synthetics and more.

TESSA CALLAGHAN, co-founder and CEO, Keel Labs

Despite the turmoil we’ve all experienced this year, the growth and implementation of material innovations has only gotten stronger. Action and tangibility are clearly growing themes in 2023, with both brands and innovators coming together in unique and productive ways to bring the next generation of materials to the market. From Nike ISPA’s launch with Living Ink to the partnership of two critical leaders in the space, Natural Fiber Welding and Lenzing, it is inspiring to see the new era of innovation taking form through collaboration, community and new business approaches. As a sector, it’s becoming more important to show than to tell. We can expect to see an influx of real-world products showcased and proven out throughout the market.

Honestly the problem in materials and fashion is that there isn’t enough innovation.”

KATHERINE HOMUTH, SRTX

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The Input Revolution Is Gaining Steam

BE IT IN THE FIELD OR IN THE LAB, NEW TECHNOLOGIES ARE UPENDING THE RAW MATERIALS LANDSCAPE.

By Alexandra Harrell

In tandem with shifting consumer priorities and the development of new technologies, interest in innovative materials has grown drastically in recent years. In fact, a study between the Material Innovation Initiative (MII) and North Mountain Consulting Group found that in the United States, nearly all participants (94 percent) surveyed stated they were at least somewhat likely to purchase next-gen materials, while almost half (45 percent) were highly likely to buy. With that in mind, more than $455 million was invested in next-gen material companies in 2022, the MII reported. And what they’re investing in is found (or made) in three key areas: the land, the sea and the lab. The inputs being explored—from seaweed and shrimp to bacteria and beer—are slowly (but surely) replacing traditional resources.

From the Land

Von Holzhausen

WHO: Vicki von Holzhausen

WHAT: A material innovator using science to replace plastic and leather with plants that believes “someone’s trash is someone else’s treasure,” Von Holzhausen wants to revolutionize how the industry thinks about agricultural waste—starting with the banana leaf.

WHERE: Malibu, California

WHEN: Since 2016

WHY: “The fashion industry doesn’t want limits, and we are built to really supply

material that can express their aesthetics,” Von Holzhausen said. “Just because it’s made out of very earthy substances doesn’t mean it needs to look earthy.”

HOW: The raw material is sourced directly from Indian farming cooperatives where piles of plant waste cover the ground after harvesting. That waste would otherwise be burned, releasing CO2 into the air and toxins into the soil. Farmers collect and send the plant fibers to fiber suppliers, who dispatch them to be spun into yarn via a non-viscous process. Mills knit the material and back it with pesticide-free organic cotton before scientists coat it with the company’s plant-based resin for durability.

Modern Meadow

WHO: Andras Forgacs, Gabor Forgacs, Karoly Jakab, Francoise Marga

WHAT: Modern Meadow’s Bio-Vera is billed as a sustainable, animal-free biomaterial that looks, feels and naturally ages like animal leather. The biotechnology company’s biomaterial is powered by the proprietary Modern Meadow Bio-Alloy technology application platform.

WHERE: Nutley, New Jersey

WHEN: Since 2011

WHY: Having raised more than $183 million in funding, according to Crunchbase, Modern Meadow aims to catalyze real-world impact, moving the industry away from relying on petrochemical and animal-derived inputs.

▼ Von Holzhausen was founded in 2016.

HOW: Sustainable and solvent-free, Bio-Vera starts with a 100 percent renewable non-woven scaffold powered by Bio-Alloy that ensures high performance. The engineered material uses renewable, traceable inputs and requires no special preservation or storage conditions and is readily available at scale with reduced manufacturing complexity and costs. Modern Meadow said it’s committed to responsible sourcing. It “carefully selected” the biomaterials used in Bio-Vera from a combination of post-consumer waste and

bio-renewable technologies. Modern Meadow’s Bio-Alloy is a proprietary mixture of plant-based protein and biopolymer. But the company said the specific sourcing details of the final and finished materials used in Bio-Vera will depend on partner requirements.

Desserto

WHO: Adrián Lopez Velarde

WHAT: Desserto, an alternative leather company known for its cactus-based product, marked its fourth anniversary by

launching a new biomaterial by upcycling a tequila industry by-product: Desserto Agave. Described as a “gift from Mexico to the world,” the plant-based material comprises lignocellulosic materials, which play an important role as substitutes for fossil fuels.

WHERE: Guadalajara, Mexico

WHEN: Since 2019

WHY: “This is a solution that aims to reduce the environmental impact from the tequila and materials industry by offering a plant-based material that is durable and sustainable,” Velarde said.

HOW: The company’s latest innovation upcycles tequila production’s pulpy fibrous “bagasse” waste into “a material that can be used to make handbags, garments, accessories and furniture.” Desserto Agave, made with up to 80 percent bio-based content, is available “on-demand” for brands whose values “match our sustainability practices,” Velarde added.

Unless Collective

WHO: Tara Moss, Eric Liedtke

WHAT: Regenerative fashion company

Unless Collective makes 100 percent plant-and-mineral-based clothing and footwear, creating the first brand whose products leave zero waste at the end of life.

WHERE: Portland, Oregon

WHEN: Since 2020

WHY: Unless Collective was inspired by the opportunity to build a plastic-free future for fashion to offer a “better way” to operate

▼ Clockwise from top left: Modern Meadow’s Bio-Vera is a sustainable, animal-free biomaterial; Unless Collective products are 100 percent biodegradable; Desserto uses the waste from tequila production.

than the fast fashion “villain” and its plastichappy status quo.

HOW: The company is exploring end-of-life strategies such as repair and reuse, recycling and composting; that way, even if one of its products does end up in a landfill— or buried in the backyard—it will decompose naturally without spewing plastic waste into the ecosystem. Unless sources cotton from the U.S. and Turkey and corozo nuts from India to produce apparel. It lists all ingredients with each product drop, including threads, trims, embellishments, dyes and inks. For example, the Plant Power Biodegradable Tee is made from 8 oz. 100 percent cotton interlock fabric, cotton thread, cotton tags and labels. Unless tests all products against the American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA) restricted substances list and only uses water-based dyes free of solvents and plastisol.

Dahsheng Chemical (DSC)

WHO: Shi-Liang Chang

WHAT: The latest sustainable innovation from Dahsheng Chemical (DSC) turns some of the spent grounds from the 2.25 billion cups of coffee the world consumes daily into its new Dreamcell Xpresso insole foam technology with odor- and moisturecontrolling features.

WHERE: Taichung City, Taiwan

WHEN: Since 1945

WHY: “DSC is committed to reducing our impact on the environment by using innovative biomaterials to reduce waste and fossil fuel usage,” Johnson Chang, CEO of Dahsheng Chemical, said. “With Dreamcell Xpresso, we can extend the lifecycle and support a circular economy that benefits both manufacturers and consumers without compromising on comfort and performance.”

HOW: Used coffee grounds sent to landfill produce methane, causing a greenhouse effect 28 times higher than carbon dioxide.

DSC works with local coffee providers in Vietnam—the world’s second-largest coffee producer—whose average annual coffee ground waste totals 180,000 tons. Dreamcell Xpresso tackles greenhouse gas emissions

by rerouting those grounds to a footwear component. The Dreamcell Xpresso polyurethane (PU) open-cell foam is made with 20 percent coffee ground waste, decreasing the amount of fossil fuels and energy in the production process. For every one million pairs of Dreamcell Xpresso insoles produced, DSC will recycle approximately 2.19 metric tons of spent coffee grounds, which amounts to a 0.53 metric ton reduction in landfill methane emissions. That’s the equivalent of carbon sequestered by 219 tree seedlings grown for 10 years.

Stella McCartney

WHO: Stella McCartney

WHAT: Stella McCartney debuted an exclusive creation on the April 2023 cover of Vogue: BioSequins, a biodegradable and non-toxic material innovated from plantbased cellulose, using no metals, minerals or synthetic pigments or colorants.

WHERE: London, England

WHEN: Since 2001

WHY: “I am amazed by the iridescent beauty of our BioSequin all-in-one—handcrafted in my London atelier from plant-derived, non-toxic sequins that are even more stunning than conventional options,” McCartney said. “Who says sustainability can’t be sexy?”

used coffee grounds in Vietnam.

▼ Stella McCartney’s BioSequins.

HOW: Collaborating with Radiant Matter, a startup developing a new generation of color and material solutions for the circular economy, brings the LVMH-owned label one step closer to its sustainable goals. Since 2010 Stella McCartney has been a PVC-free brand, including the sequins it uses in its collections. Radiant Matter uses cellulose derived from wood to create a natural iridescence for its glitter without using petroleum or metals.

From the Sea

TômTex

WHO: Uyen Tran

WHAT: TômTex uses seashells and mushrooms to offer cruelty-free and naturally biodegradable textiles that can mimic fabrics like leather, suede, latex, vinyl and more. The bio-based material from the company, whose name mashes up the

Vietnamese word for “shrimp” with “textile,” is petrochemical-free, plastic-free and tanning-free.

WHERE: Brooklyn, New York

WHEN: Since 2020

WHY: After raising $1.9 million in funding, according to Crunchbase, the 2021 LVMH Innovation Award finalist wants to make use of the massive amounts of agricultural waste coming out of Vietnam’s seafood exports as well as shine a light on how green chemistry can move the industry forward and eliminate greenwashing.

HOW: The textile is made from the complex sugar, chitin, found in shrimp shells. This chitin is converted to its most well-known derivative, chitosan, the second most abundant polymer found in nature. Chitosan is also found in the cell walls of mushrooms, which TômTex also utilizes.

Carbonwave

WHO: Geoff Chapin and Ben Ellis

WHAT: Seaweed provides a sustainable and regenerative platform to address CO2 sequestration, pollution and volatility from the Earth’s climate crisis. Carbonwave says it’s the first company to produce a wide range of Sargassum-based biomaterials that can displace fossil fuel-based products, including textiles.

WHERE: Boston, Massachusetts

WHEN: Since 2020

WHY: Sargassum seaweed mats have long been a feature of the North Atlantic Ocean, but over the past 12 years, warming ocean temperatures and pollution runoff have triggered the largest seaweed bloom on the planet—in the Caribbean. Known as the great Atlantic Sargassum belt, this yearly bloom threatens regions from West Africa to the Gulf of Mexico, where it clogs bays and beaches, harms the local ecology and jeopardizes tourism. Accumulated seaweed mats on beaches and landfills also release vast amounts of climate-harming methane while decomposing.

HOW: The seaweed bloom upcycler has raised $12 million in funding, with its latest investment of $5 million led by Mirova, a

▼ TomTex uses seashells and mushrooms to offer cruelty-free and naturally biodegradable textiles; Carbon wave is repurposing the ocean’s Sargassum.

Natixis Investment Managers affiliate focused on sustainable investment, with participation from Viridios Capital, Popular Impact Fund and Katapult Ocean. Carbonwave charts a route for profitable Sargassum processing and has developed a proprietary method of extracting its biopolymers, which are more valuable than the single compounds when extracted separately.

From the Lab

Kintra Fibers

WHO: Billy McCall, Alissa Baer-Lentz

WHAT: Kintra Fibers is a material science company that’s developed a proprietary bio-based and biodegradable polyester polymer with plug-and-play manufacturability through the synthetic textile value chain.

WHERE: Brooklyn, New York

WHEN: Since 2018

WHY: Baier-Lentz said the startup wants to help fashion “transition to be more naturealigned,” noting how the molecular structure of the maker’s bio-inputs are “inherently biodegradable in an oxygen rich environment.” And by eliminating the need to blend with cotton or spandex, Kintra’s mono-material fabric construction allows for easier chemical and mechanical textile recycling.

HOW: Through a Series A funding round, Kintra raised $8 million led by H&M Group and supported by Bestseller and Fashion

for Good, with Parade’s founder and CEO, Cami Téllez, involved as an angel investor. That funding will accelerate the company’s research and development and scaling timeline.

Impermea Materials

WHO: David Zamarin

WHAT: Impermea Materials has worked to identify the unique molecules to “functionalize ordinary substrates to perform in extraordinary ways” with coatings that offer liquid repellency and resistance to stains, fading and mildew. These molecules are also PFAS-free, 100 percent fluorine free, non-toxic, water-based, and are as recyclable, compostable and repulpable as the substrate they’re applied to. When applied to textiles, the water-based coating technology creates a superoleophobic and superhydrophobic repellent coating for various fabrics, ideal for weather gear and menstrual underwear.

WHERE: Framingham, Massachusetts

WHEN: Since 2013

▼ Impermea Materials makes coatings that offer liquid repellency.

▲ Billy McCall and Alissa BaerLentz of Kintra Fibers.

WHY: Until a 2016 class-action lawsuit against Dupont thrust PFAS into the mainstream, “no one really knew what PFAS was,” Zamarin said, describing the challenge of finding a sustainable option that wouldn’t compromise performance, even though “in reality we did” in the earliest days.

HOW: Hydro-Tex 1000 is powered by Siloalkoxyurysilane, a water-based technology designed to develop a breathable, durable, superhydrophobicrepellent textile coating. It’s a safe, non-toxic, fluorine-free treatment optimized for use on cotton, linen, rayon, polyester, denim, nylon and spandex. Hydro-Tex + UV 1010 is also a water-based technology designed to develop a breathable, durable, superhydrophobic repellent coating for textiles that blocks harmful UV rays.

Hydro-Tex + Virushield 1030 is Impermea’s patent-pending protective coating technology designed to turn a conventional textile into a breathable, superhydrophobic barrier that repels larger droplets and traps smaller droplets that may prevent transmission by containing active viruses.

Cornell University

WHO: Juan Hinestroza, Phillip Milner, Tyler Azbell, Yelin Ko

WHAT: Researchers at Cornell University have found a way to chemically break down clothing and reuse polyester compounds to create fire-resistant, antibacterial or wrinkle-free textile coatings. The proof-ofprinciple study (which uses a method known as controlled crystallization) was partly funded by the National Science Foundation and should inspire the fashion industry, which generates 20 percent of global solid waste—much of which ends up illegally dumped in other countries

WHERE: Ithaca, New York

WHEN: The article “Upcycling of Dyed Polyester Fabrics into Copper-1,4Benzenedicarboxylate (CuBDC) Metal–Organic Frameworks” was published in the Industrial & Engineering Chemistry Research journal in late March.

WHY: “I went to some countries and I saw a lot

of textile garbage that was supposed to be recycled or donated, and I was concerned about that,” Hinestroza said. “I wanted to see if we could reuse these materials into something that will have more value.”

HOW: A journal study describes the process of cutting up textiles and chemically decomposing them into a “soup” of raw materials, dyes, additives, dirt

the selective removal of anionic pollutants from aqueous solutions” was published in Chemical Engineering Journal in April.

WHY: “The textile industry is one of the largest contributors to dye wastewater pollution,” Nashef, professor of chemical engineering at Khalifa University, said. “We have developed this nanomaterial which demonstrates high adsorption capacity and strong affinity toward various types of dyes based on their charge, and can be employed as an effective absorbent to remove dyes from textile wastewater. Integrating this technology into the wastewater treatment process can help reduce the industry’s environmental impact and ensure compliance with regulatory standards.”

and esters. A metal solution is added to that soup and building blocks from the polyester share an affinity with the metal, selectively linking together compounds to form tiny cages, also known as metalorganic frameworks, that settle at the bottom of this so-called soup. These cages are then used to make coatings, though the coatings may need structural tweaks to tailor to individual uses (wrinkle resistance, antibacterial).

Khalifa University

WHO: Hassan Arafat, Rawan Abu Alwan, Botagoz Zhuman, Dr. Mahendra Kumar, Dr. Enas Nashef

WHAT: Taking inspiration from the adhesive properties of mussels, which are known for their ability to attach themselves to various surfaces, scientists at Khalifa University have attempted to replicate this ability in their selective nano-adsorbent material, which extracts toxic dyes from wastewater.

WHERE: Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates WHEN: The article “Mussel-inspired polydopamine functionalized with ionic liquid as a novel, eco-efficient adsorbent for

HOW: Since polydopamine functionalized ionic liquid materials combine the adhesive properties of polydopamine and the tunability of ionic liquids, this material can be used in various applications such as coatings, catalysis, biosensing, energy storage, and more. Plus, the nano polydopamine-ionic liquid (NPDA-IL) can be regenerated and reused, which is helpful for dye-related wastewater treatment, Nashef said.

The Deutsche Institute für Textil-und Faserforschung Denkendorf (DITF), the University of Hohenheim, Naturamus

WHO: Benjamin Ewert, Stephen Baz, Thomas Stegmaier, Jamal Sarsour, Isabell Hildermann, Caroline Weiler, Peter Schmich, Ralf Kunert, Matthias Adam

WHAT: The Deutsche Institute für Textil-und Faserforschung Denkendorf (DITF), the University of Hohenheim and natural cosmetics company Naturamus are testing cultivation methods for lavender in organic farming and developing energy-efficient strategies for essential oil production.

WHERE: Denkendorf, Germany

WHEN: The cooperative research project began in mid-2021.

WHY: Distilling essential oils often creates plant-residue by-products. DITF is researching how these residues can be used

I wanted to see if we could reuse these materials into something that will have more value.”

JUAN HINESTROZA, Cornell University

to produce fiber composites for textiles.

HOW: Fibers for textiles can be obtained from the lavender stem. DITF is already working on testing the raw material and separating the fibers. The fibers are bound together by wood (lignin) and pectin. Researchers use aerobic and anaerobic bacteria, alkaline or acidic solutions and enzymes to break the “glues” around the fibers, Stegmaier said.

Columbia University, the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT)

WHO: Dr. Theanne Schiros, Helen Lu, Romare Antrobus

WHAT: Researchers at Columbia University and the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) are developing a compostable, flame-retardant bio-leather based on microbial nanocellulose.

WHERE: New York,

WHEN: The article “Microbial nanocellulose

biotextiles for a circular materials economy” was published in Environmental Science Advances in July 2022.

WHY: “I think what the big lesson learned was that combining microbial biofabrication, bio-based green processing and waste-to-resource strategies for both dyeing and for sourcing raw materials produces a regenerative, high-performance textile with a dramatically reduced environmental impact,” Schiros said. “This is an order of magnitude lower environmental footprint; it’s got a 97 percent lower carbon footprint [than] vegan synthetic leather.”

HOW: The bio-fabrication process begins with feeding the bacteria a carbon source and a nitrogen source. As the bacteria eat, it creates cellulose, which sits atop the liquid as a hydrated biofilm called pellicle. Drawing inspiration from pre-industrial and indigenous science, the pellicle goes through a plantbased lecithin emulsion process before it becomes the leather-like biomaterial.

▲ Researchers at Columbia University and the Fashion Institute of Technology are developing a compostable, flame-retardant bio-leather based on microbial nanocellulose.

Partnerships Bring Innovations To a Broader Audience

FAST-FASHION GIANTS LIKE H&M AND ZARA ARE AMONG THE ESTABLISHED NAMES HELPING NASCENT TECHNOLOGIES SCALE AND COME TO MARKET. By

Alexandra Harrell

Partnerships are crucial to any business but are of particular interest to startups for somewhat obvious reasons: capital, connections and coverage. And the fashion industry, where brands often collaborate with emerging designers or relevant celebrities, is no exception. But when it comes to material innovation, these partnerships are even more vital for the realization of long term aims.

“Brands who step up and work with innovators are in a position to influence the development of next-gen materials and fibers with their aesthetic and performance metrics; they can be a critical force for building a new sustainable materials industry,” Thomasine Dolan, director of material innovation and design at Material Innovation Initiative (MII), said. “In addition to asserting influence in a burgeoning industry, collaborating with material innovators brings a brand closer to achieving their sustainability goals when the fiber or material becomes production ready.”

Co-developing with an emerging innovator is a smart way to ultimately replace core programs that no longer meet a brand’s sustainability goals, Dolan continued, acknowledging that a brand’s involvement with an innovator is not only helpful to that startup but to the industry as a whole when considering price concerns or scaling efforts.

“Collaborations between material innovators and brands are not just important, they are critical,” a spokesperson for MycoWorks, said. “Without partner input and feedback, innovators risk losing sight of

the importance of quality which can result in cutting corners for the sake of speed.”

The mushroom leather leader utilizes its patented Fine Mycelium technology to grow its flagship product, Reishi, in its California facilities. According to the biomaterials company, Reishi features the inherent strength, durability and hand feel of animal leather with a lower environmental impact. It’s tanned and finished by the firm’s European heritage tannery partners using MycoWorks’ proprietary chrome-free tanning and dying technologies.

Following the mycelium inoculum and waste sawdust-based material’s 2020 debut at New York Fashion Week, MycoWorks has collaborated with several brands to showcase the bovine alternative, starting first with luxury hatmaker Nick Fouquet last July on a collection comprising an Ecuadorian straw hat with a Reishi band, a baby suede felt fedora with Reishi quarter binding edge finishing and wax thread stitching band as well as a 100-percent Reishi bucket hat.

In October, MycoWorks partnered with General Motors to co-develop the startup’s Fine Mycelium materials for potential use in various applications within automotive design, seemingly still in development. And two months later, furniture company Ligne Roset brought Reishi into the luxury furnishings market with limited-edition pillows called Teneo that were scheduled to be available for purchase starting this year, though they aren’t currently available. Also in

December, there was a collaboration with designer Heron Preston on a limited edition, single piece of art titled “A Fruit Bowl by Heron Preston for MycoWorks,” representing the first of many product launches between the two.

“We work with the world’s best luxury brands, partnering closely with their teams to develop and refine Reishi to meet their high-quality standards,” MycoWorks said. “Our material is used in heritage-quality designs that will be handed down from generation to generation [and] our partners have helped us get there by demanding the very best.”

Textile innovator Evrnu has taken a different approach, working with more accessible brands to accelerate the adoption of its NuCycl lyocell fiber, which is made from pre- and post-consumer textile waste and is up to four times stronger than other cellulosic fibers. It can also be recycled up to five times without compromising performance or quality, thus leading the company to believe it can perform on par with virgin fibers.

“As a fiber ingredient, we are dependent upon brands to integrate NuCycl into their garments in order to reach the consumer and make it into their wardrobe,” Stacy Flynn, CEO and co-founder of Evrnu, said. “This allows us to generate trial, interest and repeat demand. Collaborations are also an endorsement that sustainable fashion fulfills the same desired fashion aesthetics that consumers have come to expect from their favorite brands while providing an added emotional benefit that they are helping the planet through their selection of recycled and recyclable goods.”

Last December, Evrnu collaborated with Zara on a capsule collection comprising two oversized collared shirts and wide-leg trousers featuring the renewable fiber, made using textiles from Zara’s consumer product returns. It sold out in the first week, Flynn said, and the two are currently working on the next phase of their partnership as well as additional capsule collections set to launch next year. In February, material science brand Pangaia released the Renu jacket, the company’s first

denim product made completely from cotton textile waste via the NuCycl.

“The adoptions, and associated publicity and promotion that partnerships afford, has increased our brand awareness and interest, and led to new brand inquiries and adoptions which will be coming to market and further supports the validity of our fibers and innovations,” Flynn said. “These adoptions have also required us to expand the range of end use garments that can be made with our fiber—for example, denim—thus increasing the addressable market for us.”

On the other side of the coin, H&M has invested in numerous future-focused material innovators, such as financing the

▲ Algreen received the H&M Foundation’s Global Change Award.

Swedish textile recycling company Renewcell, who later supplied the brand with tons of virgin-quality Circulose fibers, which are made from unusable textile waste—think old jeans and T-shirts that have been discarded at an industrial scale. The fast-fashion giant has also financed Alchemie Technology and Imogo, two organizations supporting sustainable textile processing. Last year, H&M funded research from Karolinska Institutet and the Swedish University of Agricultural Sciences (SLU) to scale the production of a protein-based fiber that mimics spider silk. Not to mention H&M Foundation’s Global Change Award,

now in its eighth year, which honors the world’s most disruptive innovations.

“We have an urgent opportunity to support innovations that could transform the entire fashion industry—that’s why we’re doubling the grant and the number of winners,” Karl Johan Persson, an H&M Foundation board member, said of this year’s winning class. “We’re giving these innovators a total of two million euros and access to our accelerator program—but we’re also giving the industry an opportunity to connect with these brilliant innovators. I’m excited to see the impact these innovators will make on the industry.”

This year’s winners featured six materialfocused startups, including Algreen, which focuses on biobased foams, adhesives and coatings crafted from natural resources; Nanoloom, which makes high-performance fibers fueled by graphene and the biomimicry of butterflies; and PhycoLabs, which spins seaweed fibers.

“There’s a wide range of solutions among this year’s winners,” Christiane Dolva, strategy lead at the H&M Foundation, said. “If scaled, I believe they could have a real impact on the industry—which needs a holistic transformation if we are to reach a planet positive fashion future.”

▼ Evrnu has partnered with Pangaia and Zara

Going Bananas in India

MAKING THE MOST FROM UNDERUTILIZED INPUTS, INNOVATORS TURN TO NATURE. By

Mayu Saini

Kim Rohde Morgensen, a co-owner at Copenhagen, Denmark-based innovation house Textile Pioneers ApS, traveled a long way to find the material he has been seeking. All the way to Coimbatore in Southern India, in fact.

Having worked in Europe and sourced from countries across Asia, Morgensen has been narrowing down his locales to find the most durable material—and one that will fit the fast changing sustainability guidelines in Europe.

The material that has satisfied this eco-dream? Banana textile.

He’s not just pleased, but as he puts it, “very much excited.”

There are many reasons for this exuberance, he said, showing off the T shirts that are both soft and flexible, a complete change from the rough, harsher texture that has been the usual result of working with these kinds of fibers in the past.

“The banana tree fiber is long, and it has the strength of polyester, while being completely natural. Instead of adding polyester, which is man-made, we are turning to banana which is 100 percent cellulose, and is also 100 percent biodegradable,” he said.

It also satisfies sustainability requirements, he added. “The life of a banana tree is finished after it has borne fruit, and so there is no special land area or water used in this process, it is already waste fiber.”

As he explained it, the pricing too has become more acceptable over time, as has the quality since he first started working with it in 2019.

Banfab Textiles India Pvt Ltd ‘s A Sivakumar, who researched and engineered the product, and has been

awarded the “best banana entrepreneur” by the Indian Council of Agricultural Research (ICAR) reiterated the point: a banana plant completes its life cycle after its fruit is ripe. It can then either be used as agri-waste or cast aside. “India has the largest banana plantations globally, more than 30 percent of global banana fruit is grown in India; one third of all banana trees

pointing out that most banana farmers had small farms, mostly with multi-cropping through the rest of the year.

“It improves the options for farmers who are often struggling,” he said.

The enzyme process for softening the fabric is chemical free process and can make the product softer or tougher as needed.

Talking about the global brands the company is working with, Sundaresh Ramanathan, executive director, Banfab, said the applications of the fiber were across categories.

are grown here, so that gives us an advantage,” he said.

The bananas take about nine months to grow, and the banana trunk, the psuedostem, yields the fiber, with the outer layer being the roughest, and the inner layer the softest.

“We have developed a machine that can be taken to the inside of the plantation itself, so that there is a minimal waste of energy for transportation of the stems, and it is one way of taking the factory to the field. Farmers can also use the agri-waste right away, and this also increases their income,” he said,

“Since the fiber is very strong, with different treatment we can make it harder, for suitcases and other things. It makes a completely bio-degradable sole for shoes, and it is also being used as an upper mesh. Another use is for acoustic panel insulation materials which are in offices and houses in the West, using polyurethane chemical. But the banana panels are stronger, thicker, made from agri-waste and on par with other acoustic panels. It is, of course, very good for textiles, and reduces the chance of skin allergies. We have an office and a factory and a facility for processing 1,000 tons a year capacity,” he said.

Having decided to focus their energy on innovation and collaboration, the options are easily extended, he said. “There are a number of textile mills around, so we can create yarn, textile or garments, very quickly. We are not that keen on the manufacturing side because there is no big value addition in that. We have tied up with two mills with 70,000 spindles each, which are GOTS certified,” Ramanathan added.

Sivakumar, who spent a few years studying and fine-tuning the process said

This is not just about working with people who are doing it to make money—there has to also be the heart in it, and we feel like we need to go to a country where there is a big heart and a big brain.”

KIM ROHDE MORGENSEN, Textile Pioneers ApS

that the percentage of banana fiber in its blend with wool, silk or any other material was still yielding new ways of creativity.

“Once a fiber has more than 52 percent in the mix, it is known by its own name— banana fiber. In this case, what we are making is not banana blended with cotton but rather cotton blended with banana. We are confident about the 70/30 blend between banana and cotton, but are going with 60-40 percent banana to cotton, just to be very safe.”

Both from the Danish-consumer end and the Coimbatore origin, the goal is similar: commercial scalability. Both sides pointed out that funding didn’t come in from other resources, and that meant the focus was on the product—and the material—which spoke for itself.

Morgensen made a comparison with bamboo, which is one of the banana material’s main competitors.

“If you take bamboo and have to make it

soft, you have to use the viscose way, to use a massive amount of chemicals, so you are breaking down everything and building it up again, but here you are only using natural enzymes and no chemicals at all, so carbon emission and water consumption is very low comparted to cotton and other fibers,” he pointed out.

Banana fiber has other global options for sourcing, and uses in various formats, including kimonos in Japan, rugs from Nepal, and sarees in India. ICAR’s National Research Centre for Banana (NRCB) in Tiruchi has been pursuing these channels.

Morgensen has two reasons for choosing the Indian one: “This is not just about working with people who are doing it to make money—there has to also be the heart in it, and we feel like we need to go to a country where there is a big heart and a big brain. That’s why we went mainly to India. There is a lot of production but there is also by tradition a

lot of recycling due to the Indian culture, and the Hindu religion where being sustainable is a part of the religion and culture. It was a lot easier to work with these factories because they have the same mind-set.”

In comparison to the production in other countries, like Bangladesh, he observed: “India is still years ahead.”

The potential for conversion though, is relatively unutilized, with less than 5 percent of the banana stems being used for the production of fiber, according to industry analysts who said that an approximate 1.5 million tons of dry banana fiber can be produced from the pseudostem each year.

As Morgensen pointed out, the material isn’t just about the past. It’s potential was only hindered by the amount of learning ahead, as banana materials emerge with their grease proof, heat resistant properties, and a natural shimmer.

“It’s a lot about looking ahead,” he said.

▼ Drying banana fiber; Left: A Sivakumar in the fields

Chosen for beauty, function and feel.

What Chemists and Academics Say We Need For a Full PFAS Phase-out

SOME IN THE INDUSTRY WANT THE EPA TO ENACT NATIONAL PFAS LEGISLATION TO END THE ‘PATCHWORK’ OF STATE LAWS CURRENTLY INFLUENCING STANDARDS.

By Jennifer Bringle

Six years ago, investigators uncovered an environmental catastrophe in North Carolina. A team of researchers from North Carolina State University had been studying the Cape Fear River watershed, an area in the central and southeastern part of the state that provides drinking water for around 1.5 million people. As they tested water from the river, as well as groundwater, they found unusually high concentrations of a shortchain organofluorine chemical compound known as GenX.

The chemical had been created by the DuPont-owned Chemours facility located in Fayetteville, N.C., as a replacement for perfluorooctanoic acid or PFOA, which has been found to cause cancer and other diseases. But GenX, which is one of many synthetic organofluorine compounds collectively known as per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, or PFAS, has been found to cause some of the same issues as PFOA.

North Carolina’s GenX contamination served as a startling worst-case scenario during a meeting of chemists, academics and other stakeholders at the recent American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists PFAS in textiles summit.

Dr. Detlef Knappe, professor of civil, construction and environmental engineering at N.C. State, worked on the study of the Cape Fear River watershed that discovered GenX contamination. He said that this kind

of environmental disaster should serve as a warning and catalyst for companies to dial back their use of PFAS chemicals.

“The impacts on the lifestyle of this community are dramatic,” he said. “They can no longer drink their water without additional treatment, they no longer feel

safe eating food they grow in their garden, they can no longer fish in their lakes. If you must use PFAS, I implore you to use pollution control equipment so that it doesn’t go into the environment.”

PFAS is an umbrella term for a large class of compounds that are used in a variety of products to provide water- and stainrepellency. In apparel, PFAS can be found in

Successful phase-out of PFAS in the entire apparel and footwear value chain will only be possible by eliminating their use from all relevant manufacturing processes.”

DEBBIE CHRONICLE, Hohenstein Institute America

outdoor clothing such as raincoats, footwear and athletic apparel, among other uses. Many PFAS are known as “forever chemicals” because of their persistence in the environment and even the human body. While some PFAS such as GenX have been identified as toxic, others are still regularly used and haven’t been found to be harmful.

“There’s toxicity that’s associated with certain PFAS that are well-understood in terms of their toxicity, but others are not well-understood,” Knappe said. “Impacts associated with PFAS exposure are immuno-toxicity, liver toxicity and cancer.”

Those PFAS that aren’t well-understood seem to be the tipping point, with some states and companies proposing outright bans for all PFAS while chemical makers and others insist there isn’t have enough information available to write off every compound in the class.

“Because PFAS is an umbrella term, and it’s a subjective term and not an objective one, it’s difficult to define,” said Frank Adamsky, regulatory affairs manager, Daikin, which produces fluorochemicals used in textiles. “We have a legacy environmental contamination issue. The sooner we focus on the actual issue, the greater ability we have to solve it.”

According to the National Institute of Environmental Health Sciences, there are around 9,000 PFAS chemicals in existence. And a University of Toronto study from September 2022 found that 65 percent of clothing products tested contained PFAS, with school uniforms containing the highest concentrations.

Stain resistance on clothing, furniture upholstery and home textiles has proven the most difficult issue to resolve without PFAS. While PFAS-free durable water repellents (DWR) exist, a solution that repels oil-based stains remains elusive.

“We are quite far away from getting a non-fluorinated solution that will repel oil,” said Dr. Luka Kovacevic, senior technical and business development manager, German chemical manufacturer, Rudolf.

Kovacevic said the next generation of

PFAS-free water repellants will use plantbased building blocks and small molecules, extending and polarizing them to make polymers that meet repellency requirements better. But even using natural sources, chemists have to be careful with how they make these alternatives.

“The trend is to move to more sustainable solutions, and we have started looking into renewable, plant-based materials,” he said. “When you start doing that, you must be sure you’re not competing with feed or fuel because that’s reducing the sustainability.”

As consumers become more aware of PFAS, the backlash against use of the chemicals has grown. Class-action lawsuits against apparel makers REI and Thinx have raised the profile of PFAS concerns.

“There is this visceral reaction that members of the public are having,” said Sean M. Sullivan, partner, environmental and natural resources group, Williams Mullen. “Sooner or later, PFAS will become a consumer differentiation criterion.”

In response to those growing concerns about PFAS, several states—California, Colorado, New York, Maine and Washington—have passed legislation

▲ Academics and industry expert discuss what’s needed to leave PFAS in the past.

banning or limiting the use of the chemicals in products sold within their borders. And according to the American Chemistry Council, a total of 276 bills were introduced by states on PFAS in the 2023 legislative session, although not all of them apply to textiles.

As states legislate the use and sale of PFAS and products containing them, companies are finding it harder to maintain compliance.

“Some wish the Environmental Protection Agency [EPA] could enact a national solution to this problem, but even so, these state regulations will still exist, so we’ll still have this patchwork,” Sullivan said.

In the meantime, several apparel and footwear companies have taken proactive measures to eliminate or significantly reduce the use of PFAS in their products. Levi’s was one of the first to phase out PFAS, and H&M also has made a commitment to remove the chemicals from its products. Keen, the footwear brand, also made the move to ban PFAS chemicals from its supply chain.

“Keen inventoried product categories and determined that a sandal designed to get wet didn’t need PFAS,” said Amanda Cattermole of Cattermole Consulting. “That one decision reduced the company’s use of PFAS by 80 percent.”

Cattermole said apparel and footwear brands must first determine if the use of PFAS is necessary, and if so, can an alternative substance be used. The other key is for brands and retailers to fully understand and monitor their supply chains,

where exposure to PFAS can happen in unexpected places due to the pervasive nature of the chemicals.

“Even with the most robust manufacturing systems in place in the supply chain, products may still contain PFAS even if they haven’t been treated with the chemicals,” said Debbie Chronicle, senior sales

executive, textile testing company Hohenstein Institute America.

Chronicle said completely removing PFAS from clothing and shoes is possible, but it will take time and cooperative work across global supply chains.

“Successful phase-out of PFAS in the entire apparel and footwear value chain will only be possible by eliminating their use from all relevant manufacturing processes,” she said. “Considering the persistence of PFAS, this is a really ambitious goal, and it’s going to require international collaboration and a sufficient amount of time to achieve it.”

Because PFAS is an umbrella term, and it’s a subjective term and not an objective one, it’s difficult to define.”

FRANK ADAMSKY, Daikin

Supima’s Industry Leading AQRe Program Brings Transparency Front and Center

The industry is seeking supply chain visibility, particularly in raw materials. U.S. Pima cotton brand Supima is supporting this quest for transparency through its newly launched AQRe™ Project, which combines forensic verification with blockchain technology. Here, Supima president and CEO Marc Lewkowitz discusses what sets Supima cotton apart—from traceability to tensile strength.

Sourcing Journal: Why is AQRe Project a gamechanger for Supima cotton transparency?

Marc Lewkowitz: In combining TextileGenesis™ for real-time digital traceability with Oritain™ for physical authentication, AQRe Project (pronounced acre) has created an integrated platform that provides, for the first time in textile industry history, both complete chain of custody and authentication of Supima content across the supply chain. Most companies still do not have much—if any—insight past their Tier 1 suppliers. Our investment in AQRe creates a framework to deliver new industry benchmark-setting processes to enable Supima partners to achieve credibility in product provenance and integrity.

What are some of the challenges of creating full visibility across the cotton ecosystem outside of U.S.-grown American Pima?

M.L.: The AQRe Project is possible only because of the rigorous standards that have developed around the cultivation and marketing of Supima over the past century. Where Supima cotton is grown, there are distinct farming and agricultural practices, required fiber classification and tracking and strict regulations in place. The broader cotton production complex is a massive industry that represents the largest natural fiber crop in the world along with disparate producing areas and regions, multiple fiber varieties and qualities and numerous different practices. This entails a much more complicated structure that cannot yet be simplified into a singular “cotton” conversation.

The farm is a center of cotton innovation. What latest advancements are you seeing that boost the sustainability of cotton cultivation?

M.L.: Supima growers are considering various solutions and possible practices that continue to build on the best

practices already implemented. Based on the region and unique production environment, the challenges vary by grower, soil type and microclimate. Options and solutions for improving best practices are highly variable from grower to grower and season to season. Data has a great capacity to bring equity across a larger data set but is hampered by the technological investment needed for this to happen. One of the goals of AQRe is to launch a process to synthesize past production data to create industry benchmarks across different aspects of production.

What are some of the most innovative ways your partners have used Supima fibers recently?

M.L.: Fundamentally, Supima is a premium cotton and can be used in any products that are typically made from cotton or other fibers. The benefits of a Supima cotton reside within the special qualities of the fiber’s strength, fineness and length that naturally yield better feeling and performing fabrics. A novel application by material brand Solucell™ uses Supima cotton in a core-spun process in which a recyclable core filament is wrapped in Supima. During the finishing process, the core dissolves and is recovered, leaving a hollow yarn core structure like a capillary pathway that imparts enhanced yarn characteristics. This facilitates quick dry, moisture management and thermoregulation properties.

As you mentioned, Pima is a premium fiber choice. How is demand for Pima cotton trending in apparel and textiles?

M.L.: Slowly but surely, the sustainability aspect of long-lasting, natural fibers like Supima is connecting with consumers. Transparency and authenticity of Supima’s supply chain, supported by AQRe, only serve to enhance and advance these advantages. Consumers win because they are provided highquality clothing with better performance characteristics like durability, longevity and comfort along with the credibility of the brand or retailer that has engaged a verified, transparent supply chain.

Our investment in AQRe creates a framework to deliver new industry benchmark-setting processes to enable Supima partners to achieve credibility in product provenance and integrity.”

3 Textile Players Spearhead New Era of Sustainable Recycled Cotton

RECOVER, RIETER AND POLOPIQUÉ HAVE JOINED FORCES TO PRODUCE YARNS WITH A HIGHER PERCENTAGE OF MECHANICALLY RECYCLED FIBERS. By

Alexandra Harrell

Recover, Rieter and Polopiqué—three players in different stages of the textile supply chain—have partnered up to help the industry produce yarns with a higher percentage of mechanically recycled fibers.

The three companies are responding to rising demand for high-quality and fine ring-spun cotton yarns with a higher proportion of recycled fibers, a challenge the industry is struggling to tackle. Revealed during ITMA 2023 in Milan, this partnership aims to meet this demand, which could open up new possibilities for yarn production.

By combining Recover’s recycling technology with Rieter’s experience in spinning systems and machines along with Polopiqué’s textile manufacturing prowess, the trio has created a high-quality, sustainable garment. It’s made from a Ne 30 compact yarn containing 40 percent recycled post-industrial fabric waste, versus the usual 20 percent of recycled fiber content found in most recycled ring yarn.

“We’re proud to team up with Recover and Polopiqué in a breakthrough effort that will pave the way toward a more sustainable future,” Franziska Häfeli, head sales and marketing, business group machines and systems at Rieter, said. “Our specialized expertise in spinning recycled fibers will help achieve our shared goals so together we will make recycling mainstream.”

The ring-spinning process used for this

project includes Rieter’s comber and compacting device, Compactdrum. Recover’s recycled cotton fibers were blended with virgin cotton at a 50/50 ratio. When combining the blend, the undesirable short fibers are removed, enhancing yarn quality and improving the running performance of the ring spinning machine.

Plus, those fibers removed by the comber are suitable for processing in the Rieter rotor spinning machine. The process aims to be Global Recycling Standard (GRS) certified.

“Recover is thrilled to collaborate with Rieter and Polopiqué in this partnership that is spearheading a new era of sustainability in the textile industry,” Alfredo Ferre, CEO of

We’re proud to team up with Recover and Polopiqué in a breakthrough effort that will pave the way toward a more sustainable future.”

FRANZISKA HÄFELI, Rieter

Recover, said. “By increasing the percentage of the recycled content in the yarn and final product, we can achieve our goal to scale the adoption of sustainable fibers, like Recover, and make a lasting positive impact on the planet.”

As demand for recycled cotton continues to mount, particularly under the growing pressure of regulatory requirements, this partnership aims to serve as a “catalyst for change.” The trio will continue to collaborate and explore further opportunities to accelerate fashion’s adoption of sustainable practices.

“Polopiqué’s mission to continuously test,

develop and create new and exciting products, through the use of cutting-edge technology and new and innovative raw materials, is and has been achievable through the partnerships created over the years,” Eduardo Guimarães, weaving director at Polopiqué, said. “Being able to come together with Rieter and Recover, both long-standing partners of ours, is a privilege, especially considering the aim and focus for this project. Coming together and sharing knowledge and how know has allowed us to reach our collective product objective, and excitement for the impact that this will have on our industry.”

▲ The trials successfully created a garment made from a Ne 30 compact yarn that contains 40 percent of recycled post-industrial fabric waste.

Photo by Ana Palacios

How Sateri Utilizes Advanced Technology to Raise Circularity and Lower Carbon Emissions

As excess waste continues to pose a significant problem for the fashion industry, many manufacturers across the globe are looking for technological advancements to solve the problem.

Here, Ben Huang Wen Bin, senior sustainability manager for innovation and Miranda Chen Jie, strategic marketing director at Sateri, tells Sourcing Journal how the viscose rayon manufacturer is improving its technology to increase the content of recycled raw materials and how the company is lowering its carbon footprint.

Sourcing Journal: How does Sateri plan to achieve net-zero carbon emissions by 2050?

Ben Huang Wen Bin: In our journey toward net-zero by 2050, Sateri is prioritizing minimizing our carbon footprint, focusing on the following four areas to reach our goals; improvements in energy efficiency, utilization of renewable energy, innovation in lowcarbon products and cooperation toward a low-carbon value chain.

Recently, we completed carbon footprint accounting—a way of calculating how much greenhouse gas an organization emits—at product and enterprise levels and established a systematic carbon data management system. Sateri’s commitment to its low-carbon transformation is not only reflected in our operations, but also focused on empowering the entire supply chain. We researched the low-carbon transformation status of key category suppliers and investigated trends in the industry to help identify suitable low-carbon strategies for the supply chain. We will continue to explore science-based means of progressing toward an increasingly low-carbon supply chain while ensuring stable and high-quality supply.

What is Sateri’s Lyocell fiber, and what is it derived from? What are some of the sustainable qualities the fiber possesses?

Miranda Chen Jie: Sateri’s Lyocell—a biodegradable fiber—is made from wood pulp that comes from sustainable plantations. The manufacturing process is eco-friendly, using a closed-loop technology that requires minimal chemical input and an organic solvent that is non-toxic and harmless.

Additionally, the solvent can be 99.7 percent recovered and recycled.

What raw materials innovations do you currently have in the works? How is Sateri practicing a circular economy?

M.C.J.: The fashion industry’s current economic system can be considered a “linear economy,” built on a model of extracting raw materials from nature, turning them into products and then discarding them as waste. This burdens the environment and contributes to the climate, biodiversity and pollution crises. Circular economy, on the other hand, aims to minimize waste and promote sustainable use of natural resources,

through smarter product design, longer use, recycling and more.

Sateri is practicing a circular economy. A large amount of fast-fashion clothing is discarded in China every year [China throws away 26 million tons of clothes every year, less than 1 percent of which is reused or recycled, according to state news agency Xinhua] so there is an urgent need to address the issue of recycling textile waste. That’s why Sateri independently developed an innovative and circular next-generation cellulosic fiber-containing recycled content, FINEX™—short for Fiber Next—using textile waste as the raw material.

Additionally, Sateri has introduced concrete changes to promote zerocarbon development within the industry. In 2022, Sateri launched three carbon neutral products under the EcoCosy® (viscose), a biodegradable textile fiber made from sustainably-managed plantations, Sateri Lyocell and FINEX™ brands. All three products have obtained PAS 2060 verification—a standard designed to help companies achieve true carbon neutrality through earnest means. This is a giant leap forward for Sateri on its path toward green, low-carbon, sustainable development.

Our high-quality products are born from our strong culture of market back innovation, and we are committed to advancing the concept of technological innovation and transformation throughout the entire industry.

A large amount of fast-fashion clothing is discarded in China every year, so there is an urgent need to address the issue of recycling textile waste.”

Faux Fur, Real Reach

BIOFLUFF’S MARTIN STÜBLER DISCUSSES THE ART OF COMBINING MODERN TECHNOLOGY WITH CENTURIES-OLD TANNING TRADITIONS.

By Alexandra Harrell

Despite proposed fur band across the U.S. and the EU and waning consumer interest in the animal by-product, the search for a cruelty-free and environmentally-friendly solution has been going on for some time.

Enter BioFluff, which has created what it deems the world’s first 100 percent plant-based, petrochemical-free, sustainable alternative to animal- and plastic-based fur targeting the luxury market. According to an internal life cycle analysis (LCA), BioFluff emits 95 percent less greenhouse gas emissions than animal fur and 75 percent less than synthetic fur.

In November, the San-Francisco-based company, which was founded in 2021, closed a pre-seed round of $500,000 with funding from SOSV’s IndieBio fund, venture capitalist partnership Joyance partners and entrepreneurial asset management firm Ataraxia Partners Limited, among others. And though it’s still in stealth mode, the LVMH Innovation Award nominee is on track to close a significantly larger funding round and has drummed up support from some of the leading labels in the luxury sector.

Here, BioFluff’s co-founder and CEO Martin Stübler talks with Sourcing Journal about the company’s mind-set, materials and momentum.

Sourcing Journal: Walk me through the mission and ethos of BioFluff.

Martin Stübler: BioFluff is a B2B materials supplier to existing fashion or lifestyle brands with the long-term vision of replacing all animal and all synthetic fur. Our goal is to remove animals from the

supply chain, but we see a much bigger challenge in removing microplastics and toxins from the environment.

As an undergrad, I studied farming, mechanical engineering and food science in Austria. I then went to grad school in upstate New York and did some more research around plant materials. After I graduated with a couple of different degrees, I was like, I have absolutely no idea where I’m going—

time, I was exposed for the very first time to not just leather but also fur. And that was the lightbulb moment for BioFluff. I thought, “we have so many companies creating leather alternatives, why is no one tackling fur?”

SJ: One of the issues I see in the material innovation sector is the ability to go from lab to market. Tell me how you scaled from working in a vacuum, so to speak, to an industrial level.

M.S.: For us, it was really luck. I knew that in order to create a scalable process, I needed to understand what’s out there and what the best practices are right now. And it’s hard to get up-to-date industry knowledge about how this process is executed; the textile industry is very protective of their trade secrets, their knowledge, their IP. I couldn’t get ahold of anyone on e-mail—I knew there were manufacturers I needed to talk to, but they didn’t want to talk to me, and that’s totally understandable.

no transferable skills for the workforce. So I did what everybody does when looking for meaning or purpose: I moved to California.

I joined a small startup there in 2019, the first and oldest company producing mycelium leather, MycoWorks. And then, in 2020, I ran out of a work visa, so I had to return to Europe for a few weeks. I was planning on staying for a short time, but due to an unfortunate event, I ended up staying for about a year and a half. So, I started working hands-on in a tannery. During this

So, I would go to Italy, show up to a factory with a bottle of wine and be like, “Ciao!” and try to convince them to let me in and establish a relationship. I did this throughout Spain, Italy, France, Germany, to really get to know people and understand what the best practices are right now. And from there, we decided there are two manufacturing partners—one in Belgium, one in Italy—that work really well; we can bring them up to speed on our process easily because they have almost the perfect machinery, the right know-how, the right resources. And that’s how I started the BioFluff process: by finding the right people that can execute.

Brands are very much forward-thinking; all the brands we’re working with are focused on really improving their Gen Z footprint.”

MATIN STÜBLER, BioFluff

SJ: As you said, these skilled laborers—it can be generational; their parents, their grandparents potentially worked in that factory, so, understandably, they would be protective of that, even if at the end of the day, it’s going to be beneficial to them. You can see how it would be a challenge to navigate that.

MS: Absolutely. I fully acknowledge that and it’s even harder for industries like, mushroom leather. They were trying to develop their own proprietary technology, going really deep into the science aspects. And in my opinion, many mushroom companies didn’t listen enough to the industry experts already out there. It sounds stupid, but think about tanneries. Tanneries know a lot about leather, and many companies didn’t partner with tanneries. We did—that’s why I was working at one.

SJ: You don’t need to completely reinvent the wheel to do something new.

M.S.: That’s the thing. You don’t need to reinvent the wheel. You’re trying to improve what’s there, not start from scratch.

SJ: Are you able to speak on what exactly BioFluff is made of?

M.S.: BioFluff is a completely plant fiber-based replica of animal fur. I’m unfortunately unable to disclose the plants we’re using, but it’s a mixture and it depends on the animal fur we’re trying to emulate. We’re using a combination of different fibers. Different plants have different fibers—longer fibers, stronger fibers, shorter, softer, even hollow fibers—that can create different insulation properties, different hand feel, different draping.

SJ: You utilize by-product fibers. Any challenges sourcing or cultivating them?

M.S.: The materials we’re using, depending on the agricultural conditions, could be a main crop or an agricultural waste stream. There’s over a million metric tons of this material available in Europe and Asia. So a million metric tons means we can produce all the BioFluff in the world.

SJ: Is that where you’re predominately sourcing from, Asia and Europe?

M.S.: Right now, only Europe. Asia will be

interesting in the future because it has a better price point, but right now, our luxury clients really value European-made raw materials. And they’re happy to afford a premium. Why not start a company with a completely European product for the luxury track and then maybe create a secondary BioFluff that’s more for premium fashion at a lower price point.

SJ: Was targeting the luxury sector deliberate?

M.S.: It was strategic. Our first step for BioFluff is to get a stamp of approval from high fashion or luxury fashion, simply because it’s a very exposed market. It’s guiding to all other markets. If a runway show showcases BioFluff, then suddenly other markets are like, “Ooh.” So, although high luxury fashion doesn’t purchase a lot of material—they probably purchase a few 100 square meters a year for specific collections—we couldn’t make money from that. But what we can make money from is the exposure and validation that they give us. So first step, luxury clients, but then we will branch out and pivot into more mid-market, accessible markets because we believe we can drive much more revenue and have a much bigger environmental impact by replacing plastic.

SJ: While animal fur was so big with older generations, Gen Z is more interested in sustainability and circularity, so you’ve sort of got a built-in customer with them. But that generation isn’t really in a place to afford luxury products quite yet.

M.S.: That’s how we want to position BioFluff—as a Gen Z material. But the reason why brands are already working with us is because the biggest goal for all luxury brands out there is how can we attract Gen Z; they will have money very soon, how can we be ready for that? There is a challenging timing aspect to it, as you pointed out. But brands are very much forward-thinking; all the brands we’re working with are focused on really improving their Gen Z footprint.

▼ BioFluff is a completely plant fiber-based replica of animal fur.

How Naia™ Renew Fibers Curb Waste Without Compromising Performance

Fashion is confronting its wasteful linear model and taking steps to become more circular. Contributing to closing the loop, Eastman developed a version of its low-impact Naia™ cellulosic fibers that uses recycled feedstocks. Carolina Sister-Cohn, global marketing leader for Eastman’s textiles division, shared the latest developments for Naia™ Renew.

Sourcing Journal: As the industry chases circularity, how can molecular recycling increase the use of non-virgin and waste inputs?

Carolina Sister-Cohn: Some of the greatest challenges we face in the textiles industry, and the world, are the overconsumption of raw materials and the massive generation of unrecyclable waste. Through Eastman’s carbon renewal technology, also known as molecular recycling, we provide a solution for those hard-to-recycle waste materials—including textiles—that would

brands worldwide are using Naia™ at scale, many of which have also adopted Naia™ Renew. By 2025, more than 50 percent of our portfolio will be comprised of Naia™ Renew fibers, increasing to over 90 percent by 2030.

We have committed to upscaling our recycled content fibers by progressively increasing the proportions available in our product portfolio. In 2022, we partnered with Patagonia to launch a limited run of T-shirts made with Naia™ Renew ES, which is produced with 60 percent recycled content, including 20 percent recycled cellulose.

Along with environmental benefits, how does Naia™ address consumers’ demands for apparel?

C.S.C.: Sustainability and performance should never be mutually exclusive, and Naia™ Renew fibers have zero tradeoffs on quality, comfort and ease of care. Naia™ filament yarns translate into silky, drapey, luxurious garments that can be laundered at home, while Naia™ staple fibers are spun into lush yarns that are supremely soft, quick-drying and help reduce pilling in garments for a longerlasting, new appearance. Naia™ is the perfect fiber for individuality and uniqueness and can be used in applications including ready-towear, casualwear, sweaters and much more.

Amid growing expectations for transparency, how are you supporting supply chain traceability for Naia™?

otherwise be destined for landfill or incineration. This process breaks materials down to their basic molecular building blocks, which are then used as a feedstock to create Naia™ Renew cellulose acetate fibers. Molecular recycling supports the conservation of natural resources, reducing our reliance on fossil-based feedstocks.

Since Naia™ Renew launched in 2020, how have you scaled up production of these recycled content fibers?

C.S.C.: Our brand promise is to deliver sustainable textiles to the world, and we can only do that through continuous innovation and collaboration. Over 60

Naia™ fibers are widely blended with other materials. Many brands are integrating our filament yarn into their collections as an alternative to silk, not only keeping the softness and luster of texture but also improving the stainremoval effect and providing easier care—customers can wave goodbye to dry cleaners. Our staple fiber is preferred as a blend with other fibers such as recycled polyester, modal, lyocell and cotton to improve sustainability and performance, adding superior softness, better dry rates and odor management to fabrics. With Naia™ fibers, consumers can feel just as good about their garments as they do in them.

C.S.C.: Traceability and transparency are fast becoming a business imperative in the textiles industry. Our partnership with TextileGenesis™ plays a crucial role in identifying and tracking the path Naia™ takes—from sourcing raw materials to producing the final garment, which we then share with brand partners. In the end, this gives consumers the information they need to make confident choices about their fashion and helps us deliver on our sustainability commitments.

We have also implemented a fabric certification program, which allows brands to verify that the fabrics they purchase from mills are indeed made with Naia™ fibers.

By 2025, more than 50 percent of our portfolio will be comprised of Naia™ Renew fibers, increasing to over 90 percent by 2030.”

“

Polartec Launches Plant-Based Odor-Fighting Agent

THE PERFORMANCE TEXTILE MAKER DEBUTED FRESH FACE, A MINT OIL-BASED CHEMISTRY DESIGNED TO KEEP OFFENSIVE SMELLS AT BAY. By

Kate Nishimura

Polartec’s latest innovation aims to help outdoor adventurers fight the funk.

The company last month revealed the launch of Fresh Face, an odor reducer for fabric technologies that is natural, renewable and biodegradable. The plant-based deodorizing agent is made with botanical mint oil, providing a non-toxic alternative to conventional fabric fresheners.

The innovation will debut this season across Polartec’s breathable, fast-drying Delta line of fabrics, which offer a cooling sensation through moisture wicking and dispersal. The odor-fighting technology was derived from a non-GMO mint oil plant extract harvested and distilled in Willamette, Ore. using a steam extraction process with minimal ecological impact. The process is Bluesign and Oeko-Tex Standard 100-certified, Polartec added.

The company also assessed the effectiveness of the mint-based fabric additive against its previous silver-based odor-control technology, analyzing their performance over six weeks. Garments were worn by testers throughout that time, followed by a comprehensive smell test, which was conducted to gauge Fresh Face’s ability to keep odors from becoming embedded. Researchers subsequently put the clothing through 50 wash cycles to simulate accelerated wear-and-tear. Afterward, it was

reintroduced into everyday conditions for another six weeks.

“Fresh Face represents a significant breakthrough in our quest for sustainable textile solutions,” Polartec director of product management Karen Beattie said. “It is a natural, renewable, and biodegradable odor reducer that not only outperforms our existing technologies but also aligns with

our commitment to environmental responsibility.” Fresh Face is currently being used across summer line products from 66°North, ThruDark, and a number of outdoor and active sports brands.

The textile solutions provider and its parent company, Milliken & Co., are known for performance fabrics with qualities like moisture-wicking, odor control, flame resistance, durable water repellency (DWR) and soil release, developed for the outdoor

Fresh Face represents a significant breakthrough in our quest for sustainable textile solutions.”

KAREN BEATTIE, Polartec

industry as well as workwear, military gear and medical use. In recent years, the company has kicked its eco-engineering efforts into high gear.

Earlier this year, Milliken became the first multi-market textile manufacturer in the U.S. to eliminate PFAS from its product lines, having begun the process of scrubbing the forever chemicals from its supply chain over three years ago. Its research lab developed a proprietary soil-repellent chemistry with analogous performance to standard PFAS-based solutions, allowing it to replace the compounds while continuing to serve existing clients.

Meanwhile, Polartec’s Power Shield weather protection fabric guards against the elements using a solution derived from non-GMO and non-human food consumption feedstocks. The PFAS-free DWR, used across its soft shell fabrics, allows for breathability while keeping water from getting through to a wearer’s skin.

As it broadens its bio-based offerings, Polartec is also deepening its commitment to U.S. manufacturing. Headquartered in Spartanburg, S.C., Milliken announced last fall that it was investing $27.4 million into expanding operations in the state to add production lines that will increase capacity.

▲ Polartec’s Fresh Face fights odors with eco-friendly technology.

How Bio-Based Innovation Leads the Charge To Defossilize the Material Value Chain

Materials matter. And in the quest for sustainable alternatives, a lot of emphasis has been put on recycled solutions. While they might play a role to net zero, they still face limitations to fill the demand for fashion and footwear products.

Enter bio-based materials, emerging as an effective circular solution to mitigate the industry’s overreliance on petrochemistry.

“Bio-based materials adoption is inevitable to support brands in their journey to defossilize their supply chains and realize significant steps towards net zero” said Jason Robinson, CEO of plant-based material innovation company Evoco.

Sourcing Journal: What are some common industry misconceptions about plant-based materials?

Jason Robinson: It’s a misconception to think that biomaterials are either prototypes or in the early stages of research and design, and far from mass production. Evoco has been commercial for years and has produced millions of pairs of shoe components—scaling to hit the hundreds of millions.

Another misconception is to consider that highly sustainable solutions lack in performance. Our material technologies are designed to match and sometimes outperform the incumbent solutions first. Our R&D team adapts our formulations to our customers’ requirements to ensure that we ultimately meet their endconsumers’ needs, delivering enduring performance via superior mechanical properties for longer use cycles.

And finally, questions often arise on the nature of the feedstocks used to create biomaterials. At Evoco we leverage a variety of inputs from agricultural, forestry, by-products and waste, and we can adapt to a variety of first- and second-generation feedstocks, depending on local supply chains.

Some of the current feedstocks include

industrial corn and does not compete with the food supply. Our technology uses the low-calorie starch by-product (something humans cannot consume) left over after the corn is processed for animal feed and human consumption. No potential food source or land is diverted to non-food requirements.

Currently the portion of arable land dedicated for biopolymers represents 0.015 percent of its total and is estimated

Tell us about Evoco’s FATESTM technology and your latest bio-based innovation for footwear?

J.R.: FATESTM is an eco-foam made with up to 85 percent of sustainably sourced plants, an industry-leading bio-based content. Its patented formulation cuts greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions by up to 70 percent in comparison to conventional PU material, a benefit substantiated by a third-party verified Life Cycle Assessment (LCA). Evoco initially partnered with established footwear brands such as Vans, Keen and Timberland, and has since expanded to the automotive, bedding and apparel industries.

We recently opened our own production facility in Vietnam to meet our customers’ demand and we are planning to accelerate our operational footprint expansion globally as we tackle new verticals.

This summer, we are launching our FATESTM Open cell Sheetstock technology, a lightweight foam solution designed to replace the most standard component type in the footwear industry: the die-cut and compression-molded insole used in the assembly of billions of shoes every year.

As an innovation company, what are your plans to service other industries?

to increase to 0.058 percent in 2026. To put things in perspective, a quarter of food grown is discarded. If only one tenth was allocated to biopolymers, it would allow enough raw materials to replace all petrochemical based plastics.

Future feedstocks will include biomass materials such as castor oil, nutshell oils waste residue, lignin and algae, with potential to use the 2nd generation agricultural wastes.

J.R.: We are expanding our plant-based material innovation platform to support our consumer goods partners on their journey to defossilize their supply chain and delight consumers with highperformance, low-carbon products with minimized end-of-life impact.

Our innovation roadmap includes a plant based leather alternative, plastics, adhesives and 3D printing. By putting plants at the center of our platform, we can leverage a variety of feedstocks to develop a wide range of formulations resulting in numerous applications.

*Source: European Bioplastics (2021), FAO Stats (2020), nova-Institute (2021), and Institute for Bioplastics and Biocomposites (2019), University of Virginia (2016). Info: www.european-bioplastics.org

A quarter of food grown is discarded.

If only one tenth was allocated to biopolymers, it would allow enough raw materials to replace all petrochemical based plastics.*

Additive Helps Medical Scrubs Fight Microplastic Pollution

KINDTHREAD’S LAUNDAU AND NEW YORK-BASED WELLES MAKE THEIR MEDICAL SCRUBS WITH CICLO, THE TEXTILE ADDITIVE THAT MAKES POLYESTER BIODEGRADABLE.

By Claire Wilson

Agrowing number of America’s 20 million healthcare workers will soon be able to wash their scrubs without polluting the environment with microplastics that will live forever.

Several brands now manufacture the professional gear with Ciclo, the additive to polyester and nylon yarn that allows the rogue polluting microplastic fiber to biodegrade like natural wool and cotton.

Two of the scrubs companies working with Ciclo are Kindthread’s Laundau brand, based in California, and New York-based Welles, two of whose founding principals came from the design studios of couturier Oscar de la Renta.

Welles was founded by two partners with a collective 30 years in high-end apparel, Rachel Rothenberg-Saenz and Alexandra Bayliss, who wanted to come up with a sustainable alternative to the typical polyester scrubs ensemble. They happened upon Ciclo in their research on an impromptu stop at Parkdale Mills, which owns the company as part of a joint venture. Then, in full pandemic mode, the pair answered an RFP by then-Governor Andrew Cuomo for companies giving a boost to the PPE industry in New York state. They were the first of 40,000 applicants to get funding.

Their resulting scrubs are completely bio-degradable in 1,300 days instead of the 200-350 years polyester lingers in a landfill, they are PFAS-free and don’t release toxic microfiber pollution into the environment, an

attribute Rothenburg-Saenz considers particularly important.

“There are now microplastics in breast milk, blood and food, and there are serious health conditions directly attributable to them,” she said.

In her view, taking more care with clothing provides a partial solution. “There is such a lack of information about clothing, the

apparel like a maternity flight suit for the Air Force, and is making headway into the spa world. Future target industries include culinary, hospitality and construction uniforms. It’s eyeing a closed-loop take-back program that could eventually repurpose materials for scrubs.

Biodegradable polyester and nylon may also eclipse market fervor for anti-microbial treatments which start out as something of a shield against bacteria but which can eventually become less effective through washing, especially in commercial laundries.

The medical workwear industry is valued at $10 billion in the U.S. and $79 billion globally, according to a 2021 study by Frost & Sullivan that was commissioned by Figs. These numbers are poised to grow with the increase in the number of minimally invasive surgical procedures conducted routinely, growth of ground-floor walk-in medical clinics and extended care facilities for the elderly, in addition to technological advancements in medical apparel textiles.

finishes and dyes and chemicals on the skin, especially when you think of food with the nutritional panel,” she said. “There are even medical professionals treating cancer while wearing [things containing] formaldehyde.”

It took a few tries to come up with the right hand, but since Ciclo accounts for less than 1 percent of the fiber, the added cost to the garment is negligible.

Welles has since moved into military

Ciclo is not yet being used in the kind of disposable non-woven PPE that was so ubiquitous during the pandemic. Something is in the works, but nothing has yet come to market, according to Andrea Ferris, co-founder and CEO of Intrinsic Textiles Group, originators of Ciclo and partners with Parkdale, the largest spun yarn facility in the Western Hemisphere. Ciclo was launched in 2017.

Also fueling industry growth is a trend that now has approximately 85 percent of medical professionals choosing their own workwear

There is such a lack of information about clothing, the finishes and dyes and chemicals on the skin, especially when you think of food with the nutritional panel.”

RACHEL ROTHENBERG-SAENZ, Welles

because they want something more stylish, especially after weathering the pandemic.

Sale of medical workwear made with Ciclo could benefit from conscious consumers who don’t want to damage the environment or contribute to textile pollution worldwide. Ciclo is an additive that is permanently embedded in the matrix of the polyester or nylon fiber during the melt extrusion phase. It creates countless pathways for the microbes that live in the environment to be attracted to the material as a nutrient source, breaking them down like any natural fiber. Ciclo leaves the fabric as durable and wrinkle-free as it was designed to be but makes fibers more flexible and therefore less likely to break off and become a pollutant.

It creates pathways for the microbes that live in the environment to be attracted to the material as a nutrient source and ultimately break it down.

“They are biodegradable in environments where you have moisture and access to microbes over long periods of time,” Ferris said. “These environments are actually environments where microfibers are prolific pollutants.”

Ciclo has undergone rigorous testing using ASTM and ISO criteria, and in multiple environments, including wastewater treatment plant sludge. According to Ferris, between 65 percent and 99 percent of microfibers that go through a treatment plant can get stuck in the sludge which later ends up as soil amendments or fertilizers, making it a great testing ground.

Ferris noted that Ciclo polyester degrades at a rate slightly better than that of wool.

A long-term study by a third-party lab using an ASTM Test Method found that Ciclo polyester biodegraded 87.6 percent and wool biodegraded 71.2 percent after 600 days, she said. “We also like to note that the time it takes any material to biodegrade in uncontrolled natural

conditions will vary based on many factors.”

Ciclo has been given an Eco Passport by Oeko-Tex certification. It is completely non-toxic, including to marine life.

So far, Ciclo is used in 50 clothing brands worldwide, including Billabong, Finisterre, Jag Jeans, Definite Articles by the founder of Untuckit, Dovetail Workwear and Target. Further adoption would help put an end to the fugitive microfiber pollution that gets into the ocean and which grew exponentially between 2000 and 2020, when output in the textile industry surged from 58 million tons to 109 million tons worldwide.

Recognizing the severity of the microplastic problem, France has mandated that by 2025, all washing machines and dryers have filters that capture it, and the UK is making a similar move

▲ Laundau’s scrubs for men and women are made biodegradable by Ciclo.

How Polartec Breathes New Life Into Non-Traditional Materials

Creating innovative fabrics that are durable, long-lasting and breathable, among other qualities, can sometimes be challenging. Doing so in a sustainable way is even harder. However, one premium provider of innovative and sustainable textile solutions—with more than 100 years of fabric innovations under its belt—has managed to crack the code.

Here, Karen Beattie, global director of product marketing at Polartec, discusses the company’s latest “eco-engineering” material innovations and how it continues to reduce waste.

Sourcing Journal: Polartec has been turning recycled plastic bottles into garments for 30 years. To date, how many

bottles has Polartec recycled?

Karen Beattie: Polartec invented recycled fleece over 30 years ago. Through continuous development and added recycled styles across our global offering, we have upcycled over 2 billion single-use polyethylene terephthalate (PET) bottles, thereby reducing landfill waste and turning it into high-quality, long-lasting performance apparel.

How does Polartec plan on reducing the carbon impacts of its inputs to support its Science Based Target initiative (SBTi) approved net-zero targets?

K.B.: Milliken & Company, the parent company of Polartec, holds approved science-based net-zero targets via the science-based targets initiative (SBTi) and extends across its entire business portfolio. Milliken and Polartec have committed to reaching real net-zero greenhouse gas emissions across the value chain by 2050 from a 2018 base year. Additionally, Milliken is one of the first 50 companies globally to achieve approved science-based net-zero targets and is the first company to be approved in South Carolina, where Milliken’s global headquarters is located.

What are Polartec’s latest material innovations?

K.B.: One of our latest innovations is Polartec® Power Shield™. It is made from

a combination of plant-based and nonper- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) materials and has an industryleading combination of waterproofness, windproofness, long-lasting breathability, high durability and comfortable stretch. Additionally, Polartec Power Shield is the most capable and versatile waterproof breathable technology to date in our fabric portfolio with non-PFAS alternatives across its entire range of fabrics and more.

Another innovation is our Polartec® Fresh Face, a natural and renewable odor reducer for fabric technologies. Leveraging the power of botanical mint—harvested and distilled in the lush Willamette region of Oregon—the plant-based deodorizer offers a sustainable alternative to traditional fabric fresheners, setting a new standard in odor reduction technology. This reinforces Polartec’s commitment to eco-engineering and has received approval from prestigious global certifications including Bluesign and Oeko-Tex Standard 100.

One of Polartec’s textile innovations is Shed Less. How is this innovation mitigating textile fiber fragment shedding in fleece type construction, and by how much?

K.B.: As Polartec and our customers’ awareness of the home laundering vector for fiber fragment waste from textiles grew, our EcoEngineering™ mindset drove us to develop a solution. That is why we developed Polartec® Shed Less, a process that combines yarn construction, knitting, chemistry and manufacturing to reduce home laundry fiber fragment shedding by an average of 85 percent, according to AATCC TM212-2021.

After five years of study into how to identify and test fiber fragmentation levels in apparel, the Shed Less process works by engineering the lofted fibers that give fleece its soft hand the ability to resist breaking and rubbing off during home laundering. The first fabric to receive this new technology is our Polartec® 200 Series Fleece, the modern version of the original PolarFleece® which launched in 1981, and in 1993, the first performance fleece knit from yarn made from recycled plastic bottles.

Shed Less is just one step in the right direction. We have more innovations planned for the future, so stay tuned.

We have practiced waste reduction, fiber fragment containment and upcycling programs in our manufacturing plants for decades.”

Ganni Ramps Up Material Innovation

‘Arms Race’ with Clothes-From-Carbon Exclusive

IF ACHIEVED AT SCALE, THIS PROCESS COULD CHANGE THE WAY GARMENTS ARE PRODUCED.. By

Jasmin Malik Chua

Abit of fluff may not look like much but it’s the start of something potentially much bigger.

The brainchild of California-based startup Rubi Labs, the yarn comprises lyocell derived from carbon dioxide captured from manufacturing waste streams. Scaled up, it could change the way garments are produced by sequestering greenhouse gases instead of pumping more of them out. It could even result in the creation of truly climate-neutral products—no complicated accounting or controversial offsets necessary.

While the future is still some distance away, the possibility is an enticing one, particularly for Ganni boss Nicolaj Reffstrup, who showed off samples at the Global Fashion Summit in Copenhagen on Tuesday.

He has every reason to be excited.

The Danish brand, which poured money to pilot the material earlier this year, will be the first fashion purveyor to trial fabrics made with Rubi Labs’ technology. Reffstrup, who came across founding twin sisters Leila and Neeka Mashouf through his work at Giant Ventures, a London-based venture capital firm on whose board he serves, described Rubi Labs as a “dream come true” and a “natural extension” of Ganni’s carbon insetting strategy, which involves cutting emissions in its own supply chain rather than somewhere completely divorced from its operations. He has since transferred the stake to his own venture fund, Look Up

Ventures, which invests in deep-tech solutions to the climate crisis.

Rubi Labs, which describes itself as a “symbiotic manufacturing” company, uses enzyme-powered biochemical processes to gobble up carbon dioxide, discharging pure cellulose pulp in its place. Reffstrup said he envisions—in time—installing carbon sequestration equipment across the brand’s myriad manufacturing nodes, from dye plants to yarn spinners, creating a zerowaste pipeline from emissions generation to feedstock production. But he knows not to get ahead of himself. The first step is to put Rubi Labs’ lyocell through the paces by blending 20 percent of it with the industrystandard stuff. Then will come the trials, likely lots of them, to make sure it aligns with Ganni’s parameters, including look, feel and durability, as well as applicability.

“We then look at product development, like how can we use this material? What kind of product doesn’t make sense for us?” he said. “With cow leather, for instance, it has a broad range of applicability because it’s kind of it’s a heavily commoditized product that we know how to use. Whereas innovative materials might, in the beginning, have a more narrow scope. We don’t dare to do a full jacket or skirt, so we figure out what’s most viable.”

It’s only then that Ganni works with a company like Rubi Labs to develop specific offtake agreements to take those products to market. Initial investment is important but

so are more enduring commitments, Reffstrup said.

Ganni is by now an old hand at working with materials that are on the knife edge of commercialization. Through its Fabrics of the Future initiative, it’s collaborating with some 30 innovators, including Bolt Threads, which manufactures Mylo, a myceliumderived cowhide alternative, and Renewcell, whose Circlulose material stems from 100 percent textile waste.

Textiles are a key pillar of Ganni’s sustainability strategy. More than 70 percent of the It Girl brand’s collection is currently made with certified organic or recycled materials. By 2025, it has committed to sourcing at least 10 percent from Fabrics of the Future.

“Sixty-five percent of our carbon footprint is derived from the materials that we put into the product,” Reffstrup said. “So they play a major role in bringing down our footprint by 50 percent by 2027. We can’t do that without fixing our use of fabrics.”

One thing Ganni doesn’t one to do is hoard them, even ones with which it has played an integral role in incubating. Rubi

Labs, for instance, has offtake agreements with H&M Group, Patagonia, Reformation and others, which was how it was able to cobble together $8.7 million in seed funding to get off the ground in the first place.

Excluding others from innovative solutions would be a “disaster,” Reffstrup said. “Without profits, you won’t scale, without scale, you won’t have impact—that’s our mantra.”

That doesn’t mean Ganni can’t have first dibs, which it does with Rubi Labs’ lyocell, he said with a grin. That, in his opinion, is where the “arms race” lies.

Reffstrup doesn’t know when the first Rubi Labs-infused garments will roll off the line. A “real world” ramp-up of a previously lab-scale technology isn’t the same as simply churning out an extra 10,000 T-shirts, he said. Making sure something has legs is also important.

“The thing is also we’re careful not to do kind of fringy projects,” he said. “We don’t want to launch like a tiny wallet or something like that. Just to be able to announce that we’re doing it.”

With Rubi Labs, the idea is to look at what

▲ Rubi Labs uses enzyme-powered biochemical processes to gobble up carbon dioxide, discharging pure cellulose pulp in its place.

kind of existing fibers its lyocell can replace and then generate enough volume to be able to accomplish that. Otherwise, Reffstrup said, it will just be a “game of claiming sustainability” without making a difference. Rubi Labs may not be able to produce “insane” quantities of its material at the moment, but it’s getting “closer and closer,” he added.

And the harsh reality is that change— meaningful change, anyway—takes time.

“If you want to reconfigure an industry that’s mostly dominated by commodities produced at scale, it’s a big job, whether you’re fermenting proteins for food or replacing cellulose-based materials,” Reffstrup said. “I’m sometimes surprised that people are surprised [by this]. We might not be at a perfect stage yet, but we’ll get there for sure. Just ask Elon Musk, right? You start out with a really silly electrical car and you end up with a Tesla. That’s the biggest car at the moment in China.”

Neeka Mashouf, CEO and co-founder of Rubi Labs, said that Ganni was an obvious partner.

“We created Rubi to ensure our planetary future by restoring Earth’s ecological balance with reimagined supply chains that are symbiotic with the planet—starting with

fashion,” she said. “Ganni has been instrumental in helping us to bridge the relationship between brands and manufacturing partners in order to build a future where entire manufacturing plants can truly be reinvented.”

Other companies are looking at carbon dioxide as a raw material. In December,

firm, touts AirCarbon, a bioplastic made by mixing captured greenhouse gases, such as methane, with microorganisms in a bioreactor. To demonstrate the material’s potential, it sells a range of purses, wallets, sunglasses and smartphone covers under the label Covalent.

Reffstrup sees this as a way of turning a problem into an opportunity. There’s an excess of carbon dioxide everywhere, which is why the planet is in the trouble it’s in. We need to figure out what to do with it.

Ganni may not describe itself as a “sustainable” brand, but it wants to be a responsible one. Reffstrup admitted to having a few sleepless nights. Faced with the polluting nature of fashion, he and his wife, Ditte Reffstrup, who serves as the company’s creative director, once considered walking away from the business altogether.

Illinois-based Lanzatech feted a party dress collection with Zara using polyester made by turning waste carbon sources into ethanol. (Lululemon also has its eye on the technology.) Newlight, another California

“But then I realized that fashion is here to stay, right?” Reffstrup said. “So doing better than most of the others every day and ensure that [we] make progress—that’s the moral compromise that I had to enter into with my kind of better self. We recognize that we’re not sustainable yet, but that’s the ultimate aim. We want to be a fashion company that does no harm.”

We created Rubi to ensure our planetary future by restoring Earth’s ecological balance with reimagined supply chains that are symbiotic with the planet— starting with fashion.”

NEEKA MASHOUF, Rubi Labs

Energizing Infrared-Responsive Textiles For Performance And Wellness

To create its infrared-responsive textile CELLIANT, materials science company Hologenix infuses proprietary bioceramic minerals into fibers and yarns (or prints them on fabric surfaces). These bioceramics capture the user’s body heat, converts it into infrared energy, then re-emits it back into the body. The benefit (demonstrated in the company’s 10 peer-reviewed, published studies) is an increase in local circulation and cellular oxygenation, helping to improve strength and endurance, speed recovery, promote restful sleep and more. Seth Casden, CEO and co-founder of Hologenix, explains the applications.

Sourcing Journal: How can textile innovation such as Celliant enhance performance apparel and human potential?

Seth Casden: Most performance apparel or textiles up to this point have been focused on functional enhancements, such as durability or moisture-wicking properties. CELLIANT not only has functional enhancements but physiological benefits as well. The textile enhances the wearer’s experience of the fabric, but also the wearer’s body and physical state as well. We see the shift in benefiting human performance as the next evolution of performance apparel.

What about improving wellness via health, comfort, sleep, etc.?

S.C.: Whether we are lounging on our furniture, driving our car, sleeping in our beds or going about our day in our typical wardrobe, we are almost always in contact with some kind of textile. Say you spend 22 hours of the day in contact with a CELLIANT-powered textile. This is equivalent to 20-30 minutes in an infrared sauna—all without breaking a sweat or disrupting your daily routine with a trip to the spa. If you can passively improve your health and well-being as you go about your day, all automated for you in the background, why wouldn’t we start to expect and envision a world where all fabrics are wellness fabrics?

How has Celliant’s applications evolved since it was introduced?

S.C.: CELLIANT’s primary use cases in the beginning were bedding and activewear, and first iteration carriers were polyester and nylon. As part of our evolution and philosophy as an ingredient brand, we want to drive demand rather than respond to it, so we have expanded our carrier solutions to include CELLIANT with REPREVE and CELLIANT Viscose for nature-based and recycled options. In addition to the in-yarn solutions, we are seeing a lot of interest in our CELLIANT Print coating solution, which allows for CELLIANT to be printed onto the surface of virtually any textile, whether natural or synthetic, regardless of whether it is a current in-yarn option for us. The possibilities become limitless.

How is Celliant creating more sustainable textiles? Innovation must be backed by sustainability.

S.C.: We couldn’t agree more. By providing best-in-class recycled polyester options and certified sustainable viscose alternatives, we are providing opportunities for brands and industries to explore the duality between sustainability and functionality, offering solutions that check both boxes. We are actively seeking innovation partners to team up for new sustainable solutions. We are also getting close to commercializing another new recycled solution that we believe will fill a large gap in the marketplace. Stay tuned!

How can brands and retailers leverage branded fibers to differentiate their collections and add value to their products?

S.C.: CELLIANT is also utilized in bedding, medical devices and supplies, pet products, upholstery for both residential and commercial environments and more. In these markets, and particularly apparel, the level of saturation and competition makes it hard to stand out. Savvy brands recognize how ingredient partners help solve problems and build customer loyalty. CELLIANT’s range and benefits solve a multitude of problems for different populations, but at our core we are turning everyday products into wearable wellness, providing tangible and lowbarrier solutions that support today’s busy lifestyle.

Why wouldn’t we start to expect and envision a world where all fabrics are wellness fabrics?”

Made-in-LA Activewear Uses Microalgae for Moisture-Wicking

FOUR-YEAR-OLD SALT LAKE CITY OUTDOOR BRAND WNDR ALPINE TURNED TO LOS ANGELES’ LEFTY PRODUCTION FOR ITS FIRST PERFORMANCE APPAREL. By Kate Nishimura

Utah’s WNDR Alpine made its new microalgae-oil-coated performance apparel at Lefty Production’s Los Angeles garment manufacturing facility.

Last month, the four-year-old Salt Lake City ski gear maker announced the launch of the Made-in-America Phase Series apparel collection, its first foray into activewear. A subsidiary of California biotechnology company Checkerspot, which specializes in creating unique oils that replace conventional polymers, WNDR Alpine has long used microalgae oil to replace non-renewable plastics in its skis and snowboards. Now, it’s using it in clothing, working with Swiss green chemistry innovator Beyond Surface Technologies to create an all-new compound.

The material, dubbed MiDori BioWick WA, is a petroleum-free textile finish that is designed to wick moisture away from a wearer’s skin. Its carbon footprint is said to be 80 percent lower than conventional wicking finishes, while delivering the same performance qualities.

WNDR Alpine founder and general manager Matt Sterbenz was interested in expanding the microalgae-powered technology’s applications beyond athletic equipment. “I think of the Phase Series as an important part of our progression to bring bio-based innovation to life through products that benefit the mountain athlete,”

he said. “The collection’s name is a tribute to the many different environments, situations, and phases of the day in which we envisioned the use of this apparel in our core community.”

The five pieces in the Phase Series were developed using recycled and biobased materials beyond the MiDori microalgae coating, he added. Recycled nylon, recycled

, WNDR Alpine

elastane and Tencel add performance qualities such as stretch and comfort. Priced at $65-$135, the collection offers long and short-sleeve shirts, a unisex hoodie, and men’s and women’s all-purpose pants. Fabric for the Isotrope shirt and Stasis unisex tee comes from Taiwan, while Portugal supplies the material that makes up the Advect genderless hoodie.

“Expanding the reach and impact of microalgae-derived materials is critical to us,

Expanding the reach and impact of microalgaederived materials is critical to us.”

ROMY KOLES

so we designed the Phase Series for exertion, recovery, and everything in between,” WNDR Alpine soft goods manager Romy Koles said. “The Phase Series is packed with hidden features that embody both performance and minimalism, to create a package that’s equally comfortable for biking, hiking, urban wear, and anything our community might be up to in between alpine activities.”

Producing close to market supports WNDR Alpine’s sustainability profile. “To further support our mission of environmentally responsible performance, we’re utilizing a U.S.-based production house and fulfilling directly to our community via carbon neutral shipping from our Design Lab in Salt Lake City,” he said of the company’s decision to manufacture at Lefty’s facility in L.A.’s Fashion District.

With the launch of the limited collection,

WNDR Alpine aims to generate awareness for its performance textile solutions like MiDori. “It is the full package that sets it apart and makes it an industry first,” Beyond Surface Technologies CEO Matthias Foessel said. “This is a plug-and-play solution that enables mass volume adoption to empower the entire apparel industry players to lower their carbon footprint and meet environmental impact targets.” MiDori is commercially available now to brands and designers.

Last month, WNDR Alpine owner Checkerspot received the SXSW Innovation Award in Design in partnership with studios What For Design and Fun Stuff Design. Their winning submission, dubbed the Pollinator Kit, was a polyurethane casting system that enables product designers to make traditionally plastic footwear and apparel inputs like eyelets and zipper with bio-based content.

▼ WNDR Alpine’s new performance apparel. Right: The Stasis unisex T-shirt.

Taking Cotton’s Natural Performance To the Next Level

Cotton fibers have many inherent qualities, including durability and breathability, but research and promotional organization Cotton Incorporated is developing innovations that give the material added properties. Here, Cotton Incorporated’s Vikki Martin, vice president, fiber competition; Yvonne Johnson, senior director, product development; Mike Shen, vice president and managing director, product development and implementation; and Mark Messura, senior vice president, global supply chain marketing, discuss how the company is making cotton an even more appealing option for the industry and consumers.

Sourcing Journal: Fiber quality can vary between cotton bales. How does Cotton Incorporated’s Engineered Fiber Selection® system help mills pick the right bale for their purpose?

Vikki Martin: The Engineered Fiber Selection® (EFS®) System is an innovative cotton logistics, evaluation and optimization tool that enables textile mills to select the most appropriate cotton for their products. Using this system, mills can customize the fiber quality ranges suitable for their yarn and determine the required fiber quality ranges based on inventory. This helps them control critical fiber properties needed to ensure consistent laydowns. Additionally, the system provides analytical tools and reports that spinning and quality control managers can use to evaluate and track quality. With EFS®, mills can reduce inventory, avoid unnecessary purchases and maintain quality during spinning to produce consistent yarns for their customers.

Cotton Incorporated’s innovations also include fabric performance technologies. What are some key solutions, and how can designers use them?

Yvonne Johnson: Cotton is innately soft, breathable and strong. Two effective performance technologies developed at Cotton Incorporated’s research center build on the inherent qualities of cotton to extend its wear and provide protection against the elements: a water-repellent finish called STORM COTTON™ technology, and a wear-extending finish, TOUGH COTTON™ technology. STORM COTTON™ technology can be applied to myriad cotton and cotton-rich lifestyle

apparel in fabric or garment form, so it can be the last step after embellishing processes, like eco-friendly laser etching techniques on jeans. The technology does not impact the softness and breathability of a garment, so the wearer’s comfort is not compromised. Meanwhile, TOUGH COTTON™ technology helps cotton reach a new level of product longevity. Cotton is the star fiber in denim and has performed as a workwear item through the centuries because it is tough wearing. Adding TOUGH COTTON™ technology increases the abrasion resistance of a cotton fabric up to five times for durability and sustainability.

What is the latest R&D development

related to your performance technologies?

Mike Shen: Since TOUGH COTTON™ technology launched, it has gained wide industry momentum and been adopted by brands and retailers such as Walmart, Target, Kohl’s, Lands’ End and more. It was typically applied to fabrics. To further develop this platform, the process has been expanded so it can now be applied on both cotton yarns and garments. This offers mills, brands and retailers more versatile product offerings as well as the flexibility to design and engineer robust and lasting cotton products.

What makes cotton an appealing choice for outdoor apparel?

Mark Messura: Outdoor apparel is a category enjoyed by people who love the environment and all that we can do outside. It’s active, it’s performance and it’s working with nature. Cotton is all these things. As a natural fiber that is renewable, biodegradable, sustainable and naturally circular, all the innovation needed is embedded in the fiber itself. But cotton can be engineered to do even more, and innovations such as moisturewicking TransDRY® technology and water-repellent STORM COTTON™ technology bring cotton products to the highest standards of performance and technical innovation. TOUGH COTTON™ Technology makes cotton apparel meet consumers’ expectations for long-lasting quality and value—good for consumers and the environment, too.

As a natural fiber…all the innovation needed is embedded in the fiber itself. But cotton can be engineered to do even more.”

—MARK MESSURA

Reformation Turns to Tencel For Cool Summer Clothes

LENZING-MADE TENCEL FIBER IS SAID TO HAVE A COOLING EFFECT WITH TWICE AS MUCH MOISTURE ABSORBENCY AS COTTON.

By Alexandra Harrell

Reformation turned to Tencel for a summerready fashion collection.

The sustainable California fashion brand used the popular Lenzing fiber for its latest collection of warm-weather styles. Tencel is said to have a cooling effect naturally embedded with twice as much moisture absorbency as cotton. The partnership highlights Reformation’s ambition to be “circular” by the end of the decade and bring sustainable fashion to the masses.

“Using better materials like Tencel in our clothing is a core way we make progress against our ambitious commitments to become climate positive by 2025 and circular by 2030,” Kathleen Talbot, Reformation’s chief sustainability officer and vice president of operations, said. “We’re excited to welcome summer with these fresh picks from Tencel, a long-time fiber partner featured throughout Reformation’s apparel line.”

The collection, available online now and in Reformation stores from June 19-July 3, offers Mediterranean-inspired colorways including citrus, ocean blue and rich greens.

“The Ref x Tencel collection showcases the perfect blend of style and sustainability as a testament to our enduring relationship and shared mission to create a better future for people and the planet, representing an ongoing collaboration between like-minded brands, to encourage and inspire positive change in fashion,” Sharon Pérez Arevalo, senior business development manager of textile business in

▲ Reformation’s Izara knit dress, made of Tencel lyocell and spandex.

Americas for the Lenzing Group, said.

Tencel has been a long-time partner of the L.A.-based It Girl brand, first working together on Tencel-linen Earth Day T-shirts

in 2016. This collection uses Tencel lyocell, a plant-based fiber made from renewable wood sources from sustainably managed forests that uses less water than similar fibers through a closed-loop production process. It also uses Tencel modal fibers extracted from sustainably managed wood sources via an environmentally responsible, energy-efficient pulp-tofiber process.

Last month, Reformation laid out a “net positive” clothing plan, pledging to be circular by 2030. It pledged to be climate positive by 2025 in 2020. In April, the brand made progress on these ambitions, debuting leather handbags that are made to be recycled through the RefRecycling program.

▲ Reformation’s Tommie knit dress made of Tencel lyocell and spandex.

Using better materials like Tencel in our clothing is a core way we make progress against our ambitious commitments to become climate positive by 2025.”

KATHLEEN TALBOT, Reformation

Inspired by its Partner Brands, Panther Fosters a Positive Cycle of Innovation

As denim manufacturers across the globe continue to increase their innovations, prioritizing their customers’ sustainable wants and needs becomes more important, according to fully integrated textile manufacturing company Panther Denim.

Here, Tim Huesemann, sales director at Tat Fung Textile Co., Ltd, parent company of Panther Denim, tells Sourcing Journal how the company is improving the performance of recycled cotton and the steps it’s taking to help its partners become more sustainable— from certification to an in-house marketing team.

Sourcing Journal: What is Panther’s latest material innovation and how does it improve recycled cotton’s capabilities?

Tim Huesemann: Fabrics made from recycled cotton and waste significantly reduce our reliance on pure cotton, leading to substantial reductions in water consumption, carbon dioxide emissions and energy usage throughout the cultivation process. However, one major concern has been the strength of recycled cotton, which has traditionally been weaker than virgin cotton. This limitation has hindered the overall performance of recycled cotton fabrics, particularly in terms of tensile and tear strength.

Our innovative yarn-spinning department has been working hard to solve this, and we are happy to announce that we are progressing in the right direction. In fact, we developed a unique spinning technique that minimizes the drop in tensile and tear strength associated with recycled cotton, thus enhancing it.

From a raw material perspective, how are you supporting your downstream partners in becoming more sustainable?

T.H.: It’s no surprise that transparency is of utmost importance, especially when it concerns raw materials. We are committed to assisting our downstream partners by ensuring transparency through invoice and certification for the cotton we use during production, therefore making it quick and easy for buyers to trace the origin of the cotton. Additionally, we have an in-house marketing team that specializes in creating customized, professional marketing materials that are engaging and user-friendly. The advantages of our services lie in simplifying the promotion

of new materials. We understand that introducing novel products can generate numerous inquiries from the general public. Our marketing team anticipates potential issues and proactively devises solutions in advance. By doing so, we alleviate the challenges associated with promoting new materials.

Panther recently launched Retro Dye. What are its main properties and benefits?

T.H.: Retro Dye is a dye that infuses fabrics with a vintage aesthetic. We believe it’s the future of eco-fade. The key benefit of this dye is that it uses less water than regular reactive dye, making it more sustainable. Additionally, it is easy to

produce and the denim is already dyed. This means it can be washed by traditional denim laundries without garment dye facilities, making it an easy and convenient option for brands. Wash it like indigo, wear it like denim, enjoy it like chinos.

As a main player in circularity, what can the denim industry teach the general apparel industry about increasing sustainable innovations?

T.H.: The denim community continues to prioritize innovative practices. Regardless of the challenges posed by the global economy, we are committed to pushing boundaries and minimizing our environmental impact. The presence of exceptional denim producers serves as a constant source of inspiration, fostering a positive cycle of innovation within the industry.

Additionally, expressing our gratitude to denim brands that value and encourage innovation and quality is essential. Their support fuels the premium denim business and contributes to the overall sustainability of the industry. Choosing to be innovative is not easy as it often entails substantial increases in development costs. However, the decision-makers must possess a comprehensive perspective on business development to navigate this challenge successfully.

Choosing to be innovative is not easy as it often entails substantial increases in development costs.”

MAS Invests in HeiQ’s CelluloseBased Synthetic Alternative

MAS WILL BECOME THE FIRST PRODUCER PARTNER FOR AEONIQ, A CELLULOSIC FILAMENT YARN THAT PERFORMS SIMILARLY TO POLYESTER OR NYLON.

By Sarah Jones

The apparel industry today relies heavily on synthetic fibers such as polyester, but clothing brands and manufacturers are increasingly seeking out alternatives to these materials due to their fossil fuel feedstocks, microplastic shedding and long lifespan in landfills.

Sri Lanka-based MAS Holdings, which produces apparel and textiles for brands including Lululemon and Gap, is among the companies seeking out greener materials. In service of this goal, the manufacturing and technology firm has taken a stake in material firm HeiQ’s AeoniQ GmbH subsidiary. Through this agreement, MAS will become the first producer partner for AeoniQ, a cellulosic filament yarn that performs similarly to polyester or nylon. Instead of solely entering a supplier partnership, MAS chose to make a financial investment to help this material scale quicker.

“As a manufacturer, we have a unique view of the sustainability challenges that face the industry and the kind of initiative, effort and collaboration that’s required to make the changes that are needed in how we operate as an industry,” Nemanthie Kooragamage, director, group sustainable business at MAS Holdings, told Sourcing Journal. “We also strongly believe that sustainable innovations like HeiQ AeoniQ need to be scaled and quickly for it to be a viable, sustainable solution that is widely available. Investment is critical to this, and we felt that we could contribute actively towards a growth of a solution that we believe in.”

AeoniQ is a “climate-positive” continuous filament yarn. It uses feedstocks such as non-valorized agricultural waste, bacterial cellulose and Circulose, a material made from recycled cotton. HeiQ says that each ton of AeoniQ has the potential to reduce CO2 emissions by 5 tons. Additionally, more than 99 percent of the water used to produce the yarn is recycled. The cellulosic yarns biodegrade, and they can also be

perpetually recycled, creating a closed loop. The deal includes a five-year offtake agreement with a total value of $100 million. MAS will procure 3,000 tons of AeoniQ yarn in 2025, as well as 5,000 tons each year from 2026 through 2029.

“MAS’ investment and offtake agreement serves as resounding proof that leading

As a manufacturer, we have a unique view of the sustainability challenges that face the industry and the kind of initiative, effort and collaboration that’s required to make the changes that are needed.”

NEMANTHIE KOORAGAMAGE, MAS Holdings

textiles value chain players recognize HeiQ AeoniQ as the ultimate game-changer, placing their trust in its transformative power, and is a natural result of the confidence built over a decade that HeiQ and MAS have been doing business together,” said Carlo Centonze, CEO of HeiQ Group, in a statement.

HeiQ debuted its AeoniQ technology in the fourth quarter of 2021, and the yarn has been manufactured at a pilot plant in Austria since the third quarter of 2022. By the end of 2023, HeiQ plans to triple the factory’s current 100-ton capacity to 300 tons. By 2026, HeiQ will invest $250 million to build a gigafactory that can manufacture 30,000 tons of AeoniQ per year.

“While we were exploring this space, we considered many different alternatives for us to play in,” said Kooragamage. “What really attracted us to HeiQ AeoniQ was twofold: firstly, the material itself, and secondly, the plan that HeiQ had in place to convert a scalable part of the industry, with a roadmap to cost neutrality.”

According to Kooragamage, AeoniQ has a “higher tenacity” than other cellulosic fibers, which is beneficial for design and production. “MAS has access to different technologies of creating fabric and material, ranging from lace to one-knit to seamless and open width fabrics,” she said. “We have found that HeiQ AeoniQ is versatile across all these technologies and, due to its unique characteristics, can unlock areas that were not possible before with natural or manmade yarn.”

In addition to its own use of AeoniQ, part of MAS’ intent with this investment is to make the yarn available to more of the

industry. Kooragamage noted that as a manufacturer, MAS also has “influence both up and down the value chain,” including with its suppliers and retail brands.

This stake moves MAS closer to its goal to have sustainable products represent half its revenue stream by 2025, part of its Plan for Change initiative. To reach this target, MAS is focused on innovation, sustainable material sourcing and circularity.

“We want to be able to have options to convert more and more of our product portfolio into sustainable alternatives,” said Kooragamage. “This is what makes innovative solutions like HeiQ AeoniQ so attractive to us, as it...allows us to source more sustainable raw materials, while also potentially addressing the challenges that the industry faces in terms of emissions and apparel waste.”

▲ HeiQ’s AeoniQ performs similarly to polyester and nylon

Vaude and UPM Biochemicals in Joint Venture For Bio-based Polyester

THE GERMAN CHEMICAL COMPANY WILL OPEN AN $822.4 MILLION PLANT THIS YEAR TO SUSTAIN THE SUPPLY.

By Claire

Wilson

Hoping to set an example for the textile industry as it inches toward sustainability, UPM Biochemicals and Vaude, a German supplier of outdoor apparel, will launch a line of outerwear made from bio-based chemicals.

First up will be a fleece jacket made from wood-based polyester, a small step meant to begin closing the gap between recycled fibers and sustainable virgin ones.

It will be made from a new biomonoethylene glycol (BioMEG) called BioPura, formulated by UPM to replace the traditional monoethylene glycol in polyester that is made from crude oil. BioPura has the same molecular structure as the MEG being used currently so is therefore easily added to existing polyester manufacturing processes.

BioPura will be a component in a polyester yarn that will be polymerized and spun by chemical company Indorama Ventures at its German facility in Guben. The yarn will then be woven into a new kind of bio-based polyester fabric by Pontetorto, a textile weaver in Prato, Italy. That fabric will go into the making of the new fleece jackets by Vaude, which has always been an active in moving the textile sector into sustainability and circularity.

To Michael Duetsch, vice president of biochemical at UPM, this will advance the shift away from petroleum-based textiles.

“We are prototyping a world beyond

fossils with Vaude, proving that the next level of sustainable textiles is possible,” he said. “Vaude sets an example in breaking away from oil-based textiles and reducing emissions that the whole world must follow.”

René Bethmann, Vaude’s senior innovation manager, noted how making polyester from recycled feedstock is key to sustainability and adds to the life of a garment.

“Sustainability and product longevity go hand in hand,” he said. “By incorporating UPM’s bio-based materials, we are able to further explore and unlock the power of renewable circularity—to use less, source

from renewable sources, and ensure the product can remain in the value chain after its useful life.”

Polyester is the world’s most widely used fiber, yet only 14.8 percent is derived from recycled feedstock. UPM is further trying to rectify that with the investment of $822.4 million into an industrial scale biorefinery in Leuna, Germany, where it will convert sustainably sourced, certified hardwood into next-generation biochemicals. The target date for the start-up of the new refinery is the end of 2023. It is expected to produce 220,000 tons of the wood-based product annually.

▼ UPM has formulated a polyester made from trees that will be made into outdoor clothing by Vaude.

Photo by Schon/Getty

Circ Enlists Taiwan Textile Partner to Boost Recycled Lyocell Production

THE TEXTILE RECYCLING GROUP IS TEAMING WITH ACEGREEN ECO-MATERIAL TECHNOLOGY CO. TO SCALE ITS BUSINESS.

By Kate Nishimura

Virginia-based textile recycling innovator

Circ is going global as it scales up production of its reconstituted waste fibers.

The group has established a formal strategic partnership with Acegreen Eco-Material Technology Co., a subsidiary of Taiwan’s Acelon Chemicals & Fiber Corp., to manufacture lyocell derived from Circ’s unique hydrothermal blended textile recycling process. Using heat and pressure, poly-cotton blends are separated into synthetic content and natural fiber, and the reclaimed cotton is then rendered into flakes and turned into a pulp used to make new lyocell.

The formalized, long-term partnership comes after nearly five years of collaboration, in which Acegreen has scaled up production to commercially viable levels, according to Circ chief operating officer Conor Hartman. Acegreen will aid the firm on research and development projects while continuing to promote the commercial success of the recycled material, which the two firms recently leveraged in a spring 2023 capsule with Zara.

“There’s so much interest in circular materials right now, and I think everyone who has seen the quality of what was released with Zara is happy with it and interested in doing more,” he told Sourcing Journal. This spring, the firm announced a $25-million investment from Zalando and

Avery Dennison to accelerate its engineering expansion.

The companies believe the innovation has the potential to radically change the raw materials market. According to environmental non-profit Canopy, 300 million trees are cut down each year for use in manmade cellulosic fibers (MMCFs) like viscose and lyocell. The group’s research revealed that just 25 percent of globally discarded cotton and viscose fabrics would fully offset the tree pulp needed to serve the MMCF market, and using the waste as feedstock would not only save trees, but cut carbon emissions and water use.

What’s more, Circ CEO Peter Majeranowski said that the material developed with Acegreen, made with 50 percent recycled content and 50 percent Forest Stewardship Council-certified pulp, is a long and continuous filament fiber. “It creates different properties for the end product—you get these very soft, drapey, silky outcomes that are really terrific, with high strength,” he explained. Moving forward, the group is working to incorporate a greater percentage of recycled content into the material.

“The future for manmade cellulosic fibers, like lyocell, is reclaimed cotton in place of tree pulp,” Acegreen CEO Roger Chou said. The partnership with Circ will lead to the recovery

of “tens of millions of tons of cotton currently going to landfill or incineration because it is trapped in blends with polyester.”

Hartman said that Circ was attracted to Acegreen’s “advanced thinking around circular markets,” and that the companies’ mutual commitment to closing the loop

solidified their partnership. “They had the R&D capacity to do basically what no other company in the world was capable of doing in lyocell and MMCF development, and we’ve seen them really investing in that over time.”

The company achieved Canopy Green Shirt certification in 2022, scoring a 28 out of 35 potential assessment points from the environmental group for participating in audits, investing in research projects, publicly sharing its supplier list and adopting local and regional policies related to green production. Acegreen also boasts clients across a range of industries, from fashion apparel to the medical space, as well as companies that manufacture industrial textiles.

Circ is also working with unnamed partners to take on the reclaimed polymer content that comes from its hydrothermal recycling process. “Our products, whether lyocell or polyester, can be utilized in a variety of ways,” Hartman said, including new textiles or plastic products. “There’s so many

applications in the world. We’re in the textile market now, but we see incredible growth opportunities in other areas in the future.”

“We will entertain any application that is equal or upcycled value,” Majeranowski added. “For us, it’s a win if we divert waste from landfill and incineration.”

▲ Circ’s capsule collection with Zara, released this spring, contains recycled cotton and polyester.

The future for manmade cellulosic fibers, like lyocell, is reclaimed cotton in place of tree pulp.”

ROGER CHOU, Acegreen CEO

MycoWorks Marks 10 Years With New Product Updates

THE MYCELIUM-LEATHER MAKER RELEASED THREE NEW VERSIONS OF ITS REISHI ALT-LEATHER AS A KEY BRAND PARTNER DROPPED NEW HAT STYLES. By Kate Nishimura

California-based MycoWorks is celebrating a decade in business by adding three new alt-leather offerings to its biomaterials assortment.

The company’s hero product, Reishi, is a mycelium-based alternative to traditional leather. The material differs from other “mushroom leathers” on the market in that it is grown as a biomaterial sheet like a hide, and does not depend on polymer films, fillers or backings to lend strength and durability.

MycoWorks revealed the debut of of Reishi Doux, Reishi Natural, and Reishi Pebble—new variants that offer unique properties related to hand-feel and performance—to suit different applications in fashion.

MycoWorks said it first previewed these Fine Mycelium prototype products in 2016. While those preliminary efforts demonstrated both durability and softness, they lacked tensile strength. Seven years of research and development yielded breakthroughs in mycelium fermentation and tanning, and the new suite of altleathers exceeds performance standards set by the luxury sector, including flexibility, finish adhesion, tear strength and abrasion resistance, MycoWorks said. The company plans to produce them at a first-of-its-kind, commercial-scale Fine Mycelium factory in Union, S.C.

Phil Ross began exploring myceliumbased material development in the 1990s, demonstrating the material’s structural

capabilities and its potential applications for the fashion industry. In 2013, Ross and Sophia Wang founded MycoWorks.

“Heritage-level quality can only be achieved with long-term dedication to discovery, paired with a commitment to craft and the transmission of deep expertise,” Patrick Thomas, MycoWorks board member and former CEO of Hermès, said. The Fine

Mycelium platform, he added, combines “artisanal mastery with a rigorous approach to material innovation in a scalable way.”

The company’s vice president of product management, Bill Morris, credits European tannery partners with helping to improve the material’s performance this year.

“Our current product has surprised and delighted our brand partners, who have witnessed its evolution,” he said, noting that

Heritage-level quality can only be achieved with long-term dedication to discovery, paired with a commitment to craft and the transmission of deep expertise.”

PATRICK THOMAS, MycoWorks

the latest Fine Mycelium offering offers new levels of technical performance. Hermès, General Motors, Ligne Roset, Heron Preston and Nick Fouquet are among the material innovator’s brand partners.

“It took a lot of development, innovation, and patience to reach this milestone,” MycoWorks CEO Matt Scullin said. “While most plant- or mycelium-based alternative materials use plastic to meet baseline performance standards, MycoWorks has spent ten years taking no shortcuts, in order to achieve the biotech innovations behind our proprietary process.

“Operating vertically—owning our entire technology stack, rather than licensing and outsourcing—has given us the depth of expertise required to bring a new material to market,” Scullin said.

“This is a breakthrough for the luxury industry,” Thibault Schockert, CEO of luxury leather goods factory Cuir du Vaudreuil, added. “This improvement gives us the opportunity to introduce an entirely new category to our business.”

MycoWorks brand partner, Venice, Calif.

hatmaker Nick Fouquet, followed the company’s news Thursday with an announcement that he would be expanding his Made with Reishi hat collection with three new styles. Available for order immediately, the hats will add to more than a dozen other styles currently featuring Reishi.

“We are known for our modern aesthetic that infuses whimsical, California-inspired elements with bespoke European detail,” Fouquet said. “Reishi is the only leather alternative that meets our quality standards. The ultimate test for us was when our craftspeople couldn’t tell the difference between Reishi and animal leather.”

The French-American designer said shoppers have responded positively to the leather alternative, demonstrating their demand for animal-free, non-polymer options that offer high quality and low environmental impact. “Our customers love the Made with Reishi collection and the positive social media sentiment has been overwhelming,” said.

▼ MycoWorks Reishi Natural offering.

▲ A style from hatmaker Nick Fouquet’s Made with Reishi collection.

Cocona Labs Looks Beyond Synthetics

THE TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY COMPANY WANTS TO SCALE ITS TEMPERATURE-REGULATING TECHNOLOGY. By

Kate Nishimura

Cocona Labs is working to scale its 37.5 temperature-regulating technology beyond synthetic fabrics.

The company’s products manage humidity and heat through the use of active volcanic minerals embedded in polyester fibers. The 37.5 brand has expanded its portfolio across categories from apparel to bedding, outerwear and footwear, with brands like Burberry, Banana Republic, Arc’teryx, Sleep Number, First Lite and Target sleep brand Casa Luna adopting its solutions across knits and woven fabrics.

“It’s permanently embedded in the product, which is one thing that makes our technology unique,” Cocona Labs president Blair Kanis told Sourcing Journal. “It’s never going to wash out; it lasts for the lifetime of the garment.” The patented technology was found to increase athletic performance by 26 percent in a study conducted by CU Boulder.

Last year, the company announced that it planned to imbue all 37.5 products with an Enhanced Biodegradation (+EB) additive that promotes fiber breakdown at the end of a product’s lifecycle. Third-party testing conducted by Eden Research Laboratory showed that fabrics made with 37.5 yarns broke down almost completely after two years in accelerated landfill conditions, compared with conventional polyester fibers, which can persist for decades, if not centuries.

One year after its decision to treat all products with +EB, Kanis said the company is thinking about the future, and moving beyond synthetic fibers. “The majority of the fabrics made with our technology are

blended—cotton-polyester blends, for example,” she added. “You don’t need to use 100-percent 37.5 polyester to achieve the benefits of our technology.” Many brand partners have engineered products developed with man-made cellulosics, cottons and other materials.

“37.5 is only offered through synthetic fibers right now, however, we’ve got some developments in the works this year to bring

particle index, or API, meaning that we want to make sure there’s a certain amount of active particles in the fabric blend so it s performs the way the technology is intended.”

Kanis said she wants to see more fabrics using recycled polyester and 37.5. “What I think is really interesting about the way we sit in the supply chain is that we have the ability to work with our brands to incorporate sustainability in different ways,” she said. “37.5 being a permanent natural mineral, we can also encourage brands to use recycled yarn, which works sustainability into the beginning of the product lifecycle, and now with the +EB additive, we can complete that cycle with benefits at end of life.”

Cocona Labs is working to scale its 37.5 temperature-regulating technology beyond synthetic fabrics.

the technology to other natural fibers,” Kanis said. Those efforts have not yet entered the commercial realm, though there is an appetite to see the textile technology applied to a wider range of inputs, she said.

Doing so will be possible with the help of Cocona Labs’ supply chain partners. The company works with licensed mills which purchase a master-batch of 37.5 yarns with which to develop full polyester or blended textiles. Kanis said mills are required to submit samples to Cocona Labs’ quality control labs in Boulder, Col. for verification, along with samples of any new fabrics that are made with the product. “We do have a certain active

The company’s products manage humidity and heat through the use of active volcanic minerals embedded in polyester fibers. The 37.5 brand has expanded its portfolio across categories from apparel to bedding, outerwear and footwear, with brands like Burberry, Banana Republic, Arc’teryx, Sleep Number, First Lite and Target sleep brand Casa Luna adopting its solutions across knits and woven fabrics.

“It’s permanently embedded in the product, which is one thing that makes our technology unique,” Cocona Labs president Blair Kanis told Sourcing Journal. “It’s never going to wash out; it lasts for the lifetime of the garment.” The patented technology was found to increase athletic performance by 26 percent in a study conducted by CU Boulder.

It’s never going to wash out; it lasts for the lifetime of the garment.”

BLAIR KANIS, Cocona Labs

Last year, the company announced that it planned to imbue all 37.5 products with an Enhanced Biodegradation (+EB) additive that promotes fiber breakdown at the end of a product’s lifecycle. Third-party testing conducted by Eden Research Laboratory showed that fabrics made with 37.5 yarns broke down almost completely after two years in accelerated landfill conditions, compared with conventional polyester fibers, which can persist for decades, if not centuries.

One year after its decision to treat all products with +EB, Kanis said the company is thinking about the future, and moving beyond synthetic fibers. “The majority of the fabrics made with our technology are blended—cotton-polyester blends, for example,” she added. “You don’t need to use 100-percent 37.5 polyester to achieve the benefits of our technology.” Many brand partners have engineered products developed with man-made cellulosics, cottons and other materials.

“37.5 is only offered through synthetic fibers right now, however, we’ve got some developments in the works this year to bring the technology to other natural fibers,” Kanis said. Those efforts have not yet entered the commercial realm, though there is an

appetite to see the textile technology applied to a wider range of inputs, she said.

Doing so will be possible with the help of Cocona Labs’ supply chain partners. The company works with licensed mills which purchase a master-batch of 37.5 yarns with which to develop full polyester or blended textiles. Kanis said mills are required to submit samples to Cocona Labs’ quality control labs in Boulder, Col. for verification, along with samples of any new fabrics that are made with the product. “We do have a certain active particle index, or API, meaning that we want to make sure there’s a certain amount of active particles in the fabric blend so it s performs the way the technology is intended.”

Kanis said she wants to see more fabrics using recycled polyester and 37.5. “What I think is really interesting about the way we sit in the supply chain is that we have the ability to work with our brands to incorporate sustainability in different ways,” she said. “37.5 being a permanent natural mineral, we can also encourage brands to use recycled yarn, which works sustainability into the beginning of the product lifecycle, and now with the +EB additive, we can complete that cycle with benefits at end of life.”

▲ Cocona Labs is working to scale its 37.5 temperature-regulating technology beyond synthetic fabrics.

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Ambercycle Teams With Bestseller, Tombogo on Regenerated Polyester

TOMBOGO SHOWED MEN’S WEAR MADE WITH CYCORA AT PARIS FASHION WEEK WHILE A BESTSELLER BRAND USED THE CIRCULAR MATERIAL IN A NEW DRESS. By

Chelsea Dobrosielski

Bestseller’s Selected brand is once again centering circularity in its latest release, a limited-edition dress made with regenerated polyester.

The dress represents Bestseller’s first product made with Cycora from Ambercycle, a circular materials science company it invested in a year and a half ago. The “regenerated” polyester converts post-consumer textiles and industrial waste into new, usable material. Selected Femme’s Cycora summer dress, available Wednesday on Selected’s website and at select retail stores in Denmark, is 50 percent Cycora and 50 percent recycled polyester.

“We are very focused on accelerating the enormous opportunity of enabling circularity in the fashion industry,” Shay Sethi, CEO and co-founder of Ambercycle, said in a statement. “We see textile-to-textile regeneration as one of the most impactful actions the industry can take toward decarbonization and are grateful for like-minded, supportive partners like Bestseller who operate with a long-term focus on circularity.”

Selected earned the right to use Bestseller’s first delivery of Cycora after winning the company’s internal Circular Design Challenge in September. Selected debuted designs born from that competition in March as part of a circular capsule collection that included a 100 percent

recycled cotton T-shirt, a 100 percent organic cotton denim set and an undyed overshirt.

“Companies like ours, with ambitious sustainability targets and commitments, must continuously support textile-to-textile recycling innovation to make it an everyday reality,” Camilla Skjønning Jørgensen, Bestseller’s innovation manager, said in a

▲ Tombogo showed new men’s styles made with Ambercycle’s regenerated polyester on the Paris Fashion Week runway.

statement. “Ambercycle has a technology that is quite unique, using molecular regeneration which is less dependent on energy compared to other recycling processes.”

Ambercycle, which is currently moving toward commercializing Cycora, estimates

the material offsets close to half the carbon dioxide emissions associated with virginpolyester production. In the past year, it has collaborated with the performance fabric firm Pertex, running brand Saucony and, most recently, the fashion label Tombogo.

Tombogo showed new men’s styles made with Ambercycle’s regenerated polyester on the Paris Fashion Week runway.

Tombogo, which debuted its Cycora collection at Paris Fashion Week last month, first learned of the materials company last year when it released its own collaboration with Saucony around the same time as

Ambercycle, founder and designer Tommy Bogo said in a video promoting the collaboration. Both based in Los Angeles, the two companies linked up and decided to collaborate on a collection. Inspired by Bogo’s initial visit to the Cycora laboratory and warehouses, the collection features workwear-inspired pieces, including a multi-use jumpsuit with zip-off pants; a jacket with detachable sleeves and backpack; and shorts.

▲ Bestseller’s Selected brand released a dress made using Ambercycle’s regenerated polyester.

Companies like ours, with ambitious sustainability targets and commitments, must continuously support textile-to-textile recycling innovation to make it an everyday reality.”

CAMILLA SKJØNNING JØRGENSEN, Bestseller

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