In Season: F/W 23-24 Denim + Trims Look Book

F/W 23-24

IN SEASON DENIM & TRIMS LOOK BOOK

BLUE RULES The first In Season look book launched in June 2020 when hospitals were at their breaking points, millions were unemployed and millions more were adjusting to working, schooling and living in the confines of their homes. Families and friends were separated. Travel was off limits and typical fashion cycles fell to the wayside as consumers found physical and emotional comfort in loungewear.

What a difference two years makes.

More than 220 million people are fully vaccinated. Employees and students are reacquainted with their morning commutes and consumers of all ages are excited to replenish their wardrobes for a life lived outside of their pandemic bubble.

Despite not getting much wear in 2020, jeans are now the starting point for many consumers rebuilding their closet for various reasons, from being a new size to wanting a fresh look. In the next three months, consumers expect denim (30 percent) to be one of the top clothing purchases, right behind T-shirts (35 percent), according to the Cotton Incorporated Coronavirus Response Survey, March 2022. Nearly half of all consumers (44 percent) say they have worn denim

jeans to work, and in the coming months, more than 7 in 10 consumers (76 percent) say they expect to wear their denim jeans as much or more than they do now.

Denim itself has received a glowup, thanks in part to being a mainstay on fashion week runways. Jeans are prominently featured in The Metropolitan Museum Costume Institute’s exhibition, “In America: A Lexicon of Fashion.” It is the focus of new documentaries, the topic of endless online style guides and remains a key fabric for young designers cutting their teeth in fashion by upcycling old jeans.

But when you strip away the glamorous and buzz-worthy anecdotes about denim, you have a category that is a leader in fashion’s sustainable makeover. The Fall/Winter 2023-2024 fabric and trims collections featured in this look book highlight how investments in recycling, solar energy, wastewater treatment facilities, dyeing technologies and so much more are building a stronger, more efficient and responsible industry. Fabrics are more sustainable, versatile, durable, and touchable than ever before. If that isn't enough reason to get back into jeans, what is?

This Fall/Winter 2023-2024 In Season look book made possible with the support of Cotton Incorporated will help arm designers with the fabric, trims and trend insight they need to know to bring these exciting developments to retail.

CONTENTS MILLS Denim mills are ramping up production of long-lasting and versatile fabrics that brands can apply to the various new fits and throwback fashion trends that consumers cannot get enough of.

TRENDS New denim collections for F/W 23 and S/S 24 reflect the dichotomy of the past two years, with the comfort and nostalgia of perennial indigo favorites and stylish neutrals, mixed with colorful statements meant to brighten our moods.

TRIMS Trims manufacturers have been subject to the same pressures as fabric mills when it comes to going green. Innovative, consciously created products are replacing the deceptively simple elements that have been employed by brands for years.

Photography: George Chinsee Casting: Luis Campuzano Talent: Paris Renda + John Calado @partsmodels

ADVANCE DENIM CHINA + VIETNAM Advancedenim.com

On fashion trends: It is an exciting time in fashion and a great deal of trends are fighting for attention. The importance of texture and constructions that nod to the late ’90s and early 2000s are celebrated in our Y2K line. Enhanced crosshatch looks and multicount warps in comfort stretch constructions were the foundation of denim in Y2K and Advance has updated these looks with sustainable fibers and dyes. Advance is also expanding its range of coated fabrics that blend smooth leather-like stretch fabrics that don’t crack with bright metallic shades that add a pop [of color]. Color and texture will not only be evident on the face of the fabric but will be hidden on the back with printed multicolored fillings that add a layered wash down and a fun cuff.

On technology/investments: Advance Denim is continuing to take a deep look into all production methods to make sure that they are as sustainable as possible, and if they are not that we make the necessary improvements and upgrades. In some instances, we must totally change the traditional machinery as we did with Bigbox dyeing and revisit natural dyes. Our goal this season was to rid the dye process of the harmful chemical sodium hydrosulfite. This chemical has been used to reduce indigo since 1869 but it is highly flammable, toxic and polluting. After three years of development, we introduced BioBlue indigo, a clean and safe indigo reduction system that does not increase your carbon footprint while producing high quality, deep dark true indigo dye.

Most sustainable fabric: The newest eco-friendly style is composed of 70 percent recycled cotton and 30 percent Refibra— all packaged in one durable fabric. It is remarkable to have such a high content of recycled fibers and still exceed strength requirements, but our most sustainable fabric combines a mixture of new innovations. Our botanic dye collection, which uses Bigbox dyeing technology, is a clean natural dyeing solution that uses 94 percent less water than conventional dye methods. Botanic dyes are extracted from natural roots, stems, leaves and fruits. Cleaner natural dyes and sustainable, low water dyeing is just the start.

Then we add sustainable fibers such as recycled cotton, Refibra and cottonized hemp.

Most versatile fabric: Freecross is Advance Denim’s cutting-edge bi-stretch technology that will change the way you feel about bistretch. In comparison to traditional bi-stretch, it has a super soft hand and clean bright wash down. It also has a balanced stretch in both the warp and the fill that is created by low shrinkage in both directions. Low shrinkage not only makes it easy to manufacture but it gives the appearance of vintage non-stretch denim. This stretch technology mixed with both recycled polyester and recycled cotton in a durable 12.3 oz. weight is a versatile mix of both sustainability, comfort and performance.

On raw material costs: Rising costs are problematic in every part of our economy right now, and denim production is certainly not immune. Cotton is the lion share of costs in denim and its price has skyrocketed in the past year and shows no signs of retreating soon. Historically when cotton prices have spiked producers have introduced lower-priced fibers but prices of all raw materials have spiked so there is no safe haven. Advance Denim is working closely with its customers to try and market time purchases to mitigate the impact of these inflationary raw materials. Advance Denim is continuing to produce the high quality, innovative denim that our customers have grown to love, and we feel that our F/W 23-24 line will be focused on market right fashion.

ARTISTIC MILLINERS PAKISTAN Artisticmilliners.com Most sustainable fabric: Our hemp fabric, known as Hannah, is one of our most sustainable fabrics ever. It is produced with minimal environmental impact and is biodegradable. Hemp also requires far less water to produce, while benefiting the land it is grown on in terms of nutrients. The final product is quite robust and therefore long lasting, while still allowing for breathability.

Most versatile fabric: Carlet is s a mix of our own Milliner Cotton Initiative cotton, post-industrial waste fabric, Tencel and elastane.

The fabric is one of those products that is fun to experiment with because the washdowns are great and gives you a broad range of colors.

On fashion trends: Y2K fashion is on the rise, and it’s a trend we’re here for. Between Euphoria’s popularity and TikTok fueled interest in vibrant, futuristic, slightly retro looks, we’ve bet big it is continuing. Our items favor that wide-leg aesthetic and celebrate boldness and mobility while also having amazing laser efficiency.

We’ve also updated the look with serious conscious cred, featuring fibers from Lenzing and Milliner Organic Cotton.

On technology/investments: One of our most ambitious plans is finally coming to fruition with the launch of Circular Park. Circular Park is a purpose-built fabric recovery facility, powered by clean energy, capable of recovering up to half a million tonnes of textile waste every month and will become the beating heart of our circularity efforts, centralizing our post-industrial waste and postconsumer waste processes into this brand-new green campus.

On raw material costs: Raw material costs have been an unavoidable reality the past couple of seasons, so we’ve gone comparatively lighter in terms of weights, and are focusing more on medium to light shades to help drive production efficiencies.

It’s something we all must contend with so we’re trying to find innovative solutions where we can.

CALIK DENIM TURKEY Calikdenim.com

Most sustainable fabric: The most sustainable fabric would have to be one from RE/J, Calik’s super-ecological, sustainability orientated concept that contains recycled content from post- and pre-consumer waste. Environmentally friendly fibers like Lycra EcoMade and Repreve recycled polyester are also used, and fabrics are dyed with Dyepro, a zero water and no chemical waste dyeing technology. Kenshin D-Clear Caribbean Blue DP is one of the fabrics. It contains 80 percent pre-consumer recycled cotton and 20 percent post-consumer recycled cotton. We also have Holo Black OD Black DP, which has 80 percent pre-consumer recycled cotton and 20 percent post-consumer recycled cotton. Its warp dye and fabric overdye is done with sustainable dyeing methods.

Most versatile fabric: One of the most versatile fabrics is Harvey from the brand-new Rawtech concept. In Rawtech, fabrics have a raw denim look but also have a high elasticity that makes it perfect for skinny and slim fits. Combining high elasticity with a raw look is difficult because normally when a fabric isn’t washed, it is cut and sewn and put into the marketplace raw. Once the consumer washes the garment at home it will shrink according to the weft and warp shrinkage values. Calik has limited these shrinkage values so consumers can maintain their pair of jeans for longer periods. Harvey is high stretch with about 70 percent elasticity and has a weft shrinkage of between 0 and -3.5 percent, which is the same as rigid fabrics.

On fashion trends: As denim begins to recover from the impact of the pandemic, nostalgia and comfort are first to be back in style.

Authentic denim washes continue to set the tone. Denim sees the continued decline of skinny styles as roomier fits gain momentum and the 1990s is more important than ever for design inspiration.

Some of the most important trends reveal a sense of postpandemic normalization like party dressing using embellishments and bright colors, and comfort through wide-leg, flare, loose and slouchy fits. Other key trends include distressed textures, low-rise jeans, matching sets, denim jackets and cargo pants.

On technology/investments: E-Last is still one of Calik's biggest and newest innovations. E-last is a power stretch product group that has weft shrinkage values stabilized for rigid articles. Some of the advantages of E-Last fabrics are how they fit like the first time every time, preventing baggy and saggy looks. The technology also prevents puckering problems.

On raw material costs: Price increases have occurred in the denim industry, as is the case with price increases all over the world. Calik has done our best to make this process as smooth as possible, considering both our production processes and our customers and being their solution partner.

PANTHER DENIM HONG KONG + CHINA Tatfung-tex.com Most sustainable fabric: It is hard to measure which fabric is the most sustainable because each development is focusing on a different aspect. Our major indigo-saving development, Indigo Dehydro, saves dye stuff by 20 percent to 30 percent and reduces water consumption by up to 95 percent. We plan to change all our dye technique to this within two to three years. Then it comes to the question of materials. We have some key developments on recycled cotton, biodegradable polyester and elastane. Since we have an in-house spinning facility, we can use our post-industrial waste cotton in our fabrications without sacrificing aesthetic and performance. As a factory, we believe that making our production plant sustainable is a priority, therefore we utilized recycled water.

In our facilities, we are also expanding our usage of solar energy.

It might sound far-fetched, but our goal is to make our production net zero emission.

Most versatile fabric: Our most versatile fabrics are in our Marbelous collection, which has the vintage aesthetic based on the orange-peel effect of the 1970s. The fabrics are suitable for both men’s and women’s, and perfectly designed for jackets or five-pocket jeans.

On fashion trends: We are expanding our rigid and comfort stretch development as women’s trends go toward wider fits. We also believe that the vibe of ’90s denim is coming back.

On technology/investments: We are investing in a finishing technology that can make the denim softer and minimize shrinkage.

On raw material costs: We believe all mills are facing the same situation. However, we are trying not to be too cost sensitive in our development because our value is quality, sustainability and innovation. We believe that we can sustain because we are offering this kind of product.

BOSSA TURKEY Bossa.com

Most sustainable fabric: Future Denim combines sustainable fibers and dyeing techniques for 100 percent sustainable denim.

Most colors in the collection are suitable for laser and ozone and we can achieve beautiful effects with our new In Green sustainable washing technology. We have also new laser friendly color, Swordstorm. The fabric called Alondra Swordstorm has high sustainable fiber content.

Most versatile fabric: EverFit Denim offers exceptional flexibility, maximum comfort and great recovery performance thanks to an innovative technology that allows for extra wear between washes, recovering the fit after wearing. Our All In One concept can be used for every style. One of our All In One fabrics is the Thurtston Aliceblue, which is designed with a recycled blend and a new color Aliceblue. This color is very special with its bright and lively look.

You can also achieve perfect shades at every stage of washing.

On fashion trends: This season we divided the collection in three groups based on cultural trends and influences. In Outdoor Living, it is all about reconciling with the planet and enjoying its outdoor wonders with a sustainable approach and weatherproof fabrications that can be functional and comfortable. In Easy Does It, we stay true to loose cuts and true blue washes. It has a gender fluid aesthetic that makes an easy wardrobe to share with others.

In Deconstructed Delight, we focus on upcycling denim into reconstructed new silhouettes for a modern take on casualwear. It is time to Frankenstein your closet.

On technology/investments: We are planning to commission our recycling plant in the first quarter of 2022. Machinery investments for this plant have been completed but it is still under construction.

Thirty percent of our present production is GRS certified and this rate is much higher than the industry value. Capacity of our new machine investment will be 240 tons monthly. At Bossa, we aim at operating the recycling plant with a 100 percent capacity with new yarn investment to be made over the few next years.

ADM PAKISTAN Admdenim.com

Most sustainable fabric: ADM’s Verte Denim takes a holistic approach to sustainability by utilizing all sustainable raw materials and processes. This includes organic cotton, recycled cotton with pre- and post-consumer recycled yarns, Tencel, Lycra T400, and aniline-free indigo dyes and efficient dyes that require fewer dips.

On fashion trends: Sustainability is behind ADM’s trends. The F/W 23-24 collection offers cottonized hemp and certified organic cotton blends, recycled cotton blended with ecologically made fibers like EcoMade Lycra and EcoMade T400 and seasonless options such as ecru and undyed denim. Sustainable coatings and overdyes are also trending.

On technology/investments: We believe in continuous growth and development. ADM is considered as one of the key players in bringing new technology and innovation to the industry in Pakistan. Bluescan is a measurement technology for fabric that allows us to analyze and identify the fabric sensitivity to laser abrasion and the reaction to the wash. The Bluescan technology evaluates denim blankets, automatically providing repeatable, standardized results without the need or bias of human interpretation.

ADM has also established a large recycling facility in partnership with Recover, where we are converting textile waste into fiber. We are producing yarn, fabrics and garments in the same complex, helping us reduce our carbon footprint and completing the sustainability loop.

On raw material costs: Recent hikes in raw material and freight delays had an adverse impact on the industry. ADM has managed to minimize the impact of these issues through its vertical operation. This helps us increase our productivity and time effectiveness by managing all operations under a single complex facility ensuring better prices and lead time for our customers. We planned to minimize the impact of increased costs by scaling our production facilities, which result in lower cost per unit. Our fabric mill scaled up its operations to the capacity of producing 2.75 million yards fabric every month and our garment unit scaled its production capacity up to 1 million pieces per month.

AFM PAKISTAN Artisticfabricmills.com

Most sustainable fabric: Our IndiLOOP fabric is made up of postindustrial waste, Refibra and Lycra EcoMade. However, the true innovation in sustainability comes from the 100 percent recycled indigo that is used to dye the yarn. A special proprietary technique has made it possible for us to extract indigo from lead lines that is then reused and recycled to dye fresh yarn. The result is a truly unique offering of shades that are dyed sustainably, reducing waste and the consumption of water and energy. Additionally, we are have a 100 percent post-industrial waste fabric from our Undone collection in a herringbone construction which gets its bleach-blue shade through the natural recycling of mill waste, without any new dyes applied to the yarns.

Most versatile fabric: Our A4-0501529 fabric is a blend of recycled cotton, elastane, Thermolite EcoMade and Coolmax, making it an all-season fabric. It is constructed to look like an authentic cross hatch with a soft hand-feel and super stretch performance. It is currently offered in a jet black that washes down with micro slubs. We believe this is the most versatile fabric in the range as its performance, look and feel can be used across several divisions and product categories through all seasons.

On fashion trends: The collection in general is curated to cater to an inclusive customer. The fashion trends we are focusing on are genderless fabrics with high performance. We are also taking inspiration from the Y2K revival, adding constructions that allow for oversized baggy fits, straight leg and slouchy low-rise jeans.

On technology/investments: We’re introducing our Lycra Adaptiv article, which has a soft slub polo warp. It has between 90 percent and 100 percent stretch, giving the wearer unparalleled flexibility in movement without excessive compression for ease in wearability. Additionally, we are also introducing our latest venture, AFM Organic Cotton, in collaboration with WWF Pakistan, to farm organic cotton, creating income opportunities and livelihood for farmers in the region as well as adding transparency to the supply chain. In the third quarter of this year, we will be launching our newest fabric mill that is custom-built to be environmentally friendly and will double our current fabric production capacity.

On raw material costs: While the rise in cost of raw materials is impacting our operations and prices, we’re working as an organization to find alternatives internally to absorb most of the rising costs in an efficient manner. By reevaluating our supply chain and sources of raw material and recycling waste where we can, we are consistently pushing to make the most efficient use of the resources available to us. We are also trying to offset rising raw material costs by using solar power to reduce our energy consumption and keep production running given the challenges we are locally facing with the energy crisis.

NAVEENA DENIM MILLS PAKISTAN Naveenadenimmills.com

Most sustainable fabric: Our Agraloop fabrics use Agraloop BioFibre, a natural textile-grade fiber derived from agricultural crops. Agraloop processes leftovers from various food and medicine crops including oilseed hemp/flax, CBD hemp, banana and pineapple, and the manufacturing process uses nearly zero water. It is a new innovative fiber mindfully sourced for circularity.

Most versatile fabric: The most versatile fabric collection is Dualistic, which combines outstanding stretch and cooling characteristics with an authentic denim look and touch. We achieve this thanks to a proprietary combination of Lycra T400 and a special finishing process. The fabrics provide easy stretch, very low bagging and sagging, good moisture management and a natural hand feel and aesthetic with minimal shine on the surface.

On fashion trends: One of our focuses is conscious and smart stretch fabrics. Consumers are shifting their focus from trend to function. Smart stretch fabrics like our Wraptech 2.0 and SelfFit fabrics provide comfort but also have a lower impact on the environment. We are also focused on authentic, rustic and earthy fabrics that combine old and new, harvested and regenerated in an effort to find eco-alternatives for the industry. Retrotech and Retrosoft concepts are good examples for this trend. Retrosoft fabrics are made with a 50 percent Tencel blend and have an authentic marble look with a super soft touch.

On technology/investments: We want to draw attention to a problem that is underrated in terms of sustainability: product returns. Increasing product returns are a huge problem for the industry, consumers and the environment. Statista reported that 48 percent of online shoppers said they returned an online order in the last 12 months. The top reasons for returns were about size and fit. So, we thought that one of the elements of our reduction strategy should be about removing the causes of returns.

Our Self-Fit technology creates products that fit different body types and sizes at the same time. A pair of Self-Fit jeans fits two sizes up and down, so it is adaptable to any silhouette, and provides excellent shape retention and recovery. For brands, the revolutionary technology means fewer product returns, less restocking expenses and better inventory management.

For the environment, Self-Fit means fewer carbon emissions from transportation and durable and long wear life garments for everyone.

On raw material costs: Raw material prices are changing almost daily. The recent situation in Ukraine also had a negative impact in many aspects. With most of our customers, we are negotiating seasonal prices according to the increasing costs, and being a vertically integrated unit, we are securing raw materials and cotton for them. Having control over our raw materials keeps us away from the dangers of everyday changes and we can commit to longterm pricing strategies. We reflect some of the additional cost to our customers but also assume a significant part ourselves.

VICUNHA BRAZIL Vicunha.com

Most versatile fabric: The Kasper, Kasper Dark and Kasper Black family of products have a cotton/elastane composition that allows for great washing effects such as rips and frayed fabrics with a natural appearance, in addition to versatile dyeing. Using the same family of products makes it possible to put together a large collection with a variety of shades without high laundry costs.

On fashion trends: Optimism, combined with the need for expression and celebration, drive the rise of sexy and glamorous jeans. Historical revivalism will continue to influence fashion. The maximalism of the ’80s with its contrasting volumes and laundry effects, coupled with the relaxed fits, low waists and cargo design of the ’90s and ’00s will inspire even more vibrant and energetic creations. Surfaces that highlight textures are important. Cross effects and well-marked twills connect the past to the future.

On technology/investments: We’re launching Zatar Eco in the V. Moove Fit collection. This line of products features Lycra Dual FX technology, which provides a soft touch, excellent flexibility and a perfect recovery. We have added Vicunha’s [recycled] yarns and Lycra with pre-consumer recycled material. This article has GRS certification and has the Vicunha Eco Cycle—Recycle seal.

On raw material costs: The constant price increases in cotton, which is our major raw material, affect the entire textile industry.

Vicunha is always attentive to these movements and searches for alternative resources such as hemp and recycled polyester.

In addition, we use recycled cotton, reducing our impact on the environment and the consumption of virgin material.

Most sustainable fabric: Our Rodin product contains Vicunha pre-consumer recycled fiber and a 100 percent lyocell weft. It uses an ecological production process in which 99.8 percent of solvents are reused and the waste is used as fertilizer for some plants. It is GRS- and BCI-certified and it carries the Vicunha Eco Cycle— Recycle seal. In our color denim collection, we have Eco Squash Color, an item that includes recycled polyester filament from PET bottles. It uses a water-saving dye process and has BCI and RCS certification, as well as the Vicunha Eco Cycle—Less Water and Eco Cycle PET stamps.

ISKO TURKEY Iskodenim.com

Most sustainable fabric: All our fabrics are extremely sustainable, thanks to the constant effort we put in improving our R-Two technology in every collection. The entire 2023 Collection Vol. 2 contains recycled materials and 96 percent of the collection has between 20 percent and 96 percent recycled materials. In addition to this, we are constantly improving the production process behind the collection by using less and less water, energy and chemicals.

Most versatile fabric: Versatility really depends on how you look at it. If the focus is comfort and fashion, the Isko Blue Skin, Isko Reform HP and Isko Reform XP product groups offer amazing stretch and incredible holding power for an extremely flattering fit.

From an authenticity standpoint, Isko Rigid, Isko Comfort and Isko Xmen product groups provide a heritage look with a contemporary edge, keeping these fabrics fresh, accessible and versatile.

On fashion trends: Authentic looks and ’80s open-end constructions are still very much on trend and present in the markets. We are also seeing high-end luxury fabrics becoming more prevalent with unique applications and interesting techniques. Bright fabrics with a softer hand feel are also very important.

On technology/investments: R-Two 50+ is our latest technology and allows us to develop fabrics with over 50 percent recycled materials, while keeping the same look of our beloved denim constructions. We are also providing a huge variety of color options to our customers, with natural mineral colors being a big part of this. For the first time, we are also presenting a new group of fabrics that contain no virgin cotton. They are the result of our commitment to reducing the amount of virgin materials we use in our fabrics.

On raw material costs: Isko has been investing in sustainability and technology for a very long time and we continue to do so. The rise in cost of virgin materials is not a surprise but [we are] driven by our commitment to sustainability. We were already working in a direction to decrease the use of raw materials and reduce our carbon footprint. This vision naturally leads us to use fewer virgin materials, less water, less energy and other sources. R-Two 50+ technology is an example of how we take care of the environment whilst our customers continue to receive amazing durability in our fabrics.

SAITEX FABRICS VIETNAM Sai-tex.com/mill Most sustainable fabric: As a sustainable fabric manufacturer, all fabrics [in] our collection will benefit from our fabric mill set up with LEED Gold certification…. Besides that, a major part of sustainability are the fibers and colors we use in our products. All our denim fabrics are dyed with the Smart Indigo system, which is hydrosulphite-free and uses just water and caustic soda to reduce the indigo. We only use rope-dyeing technology from Karl Mayer, which gives us a higher dye penetration, resulting in the use of 25 percent less chemical and dye stuff. [Our] man-made fibers… are recycled and utilized alongside regenerative cotton allowing the Saitex mill to reach the highest standards of [Global Recycle Standard], [Cradle to Cradle] and Regenagri certifications.

Additionally, all our fabrics are traceable from seed to shelf due to close partnerships with farms.

Most versatile fabric: The most versatile fabrics are our stretch fabrics that incorporate Lycra Dual FX T400 technology blended with Coolmax EcoMade fibers which are made with recycled materials. Those fabrics will be comfortable to wear with better recovery and the comfort of Coolmax that will make them allweather fabrics.

On fashion trends: Our collections are merging East and West trends in denim. Rich indigo shades with perfect yarn characters of the East merging with the soft touch and comfort of the West.

Authentic denim construction continues with a modern twist. Old vintage color, constructions in rigid fabrics, and incorporation of different stretch levels have their place in Saitex’s collections.

On technology/investments: We have invested in the best available technology, and we plan to increase our capacities from 1 Mio. yards per month to 2 Mio. yards per month. Parallel to this, we are watching the latest trends for finishing technology that will allow us to minimize the impacts of the laundry stage. As a circular manufacturer, we believe that technology should be invested in a holistic approach and benefit the complete value chain.

On raw material costs: With rising costs, the challenge is to find ways to offset the increase of material prices with cost savings based on responsible manufacturing and innovative processes.

That means our fabric should allow the garment manufacturers to offset the impact of higher fabric prices with production benefits such as increasing efficiency, less fabric consumption and reduced laundry processes. That will benefit the garment manufacturers, brands and the environment.

AGI DENIM PAKISTAN Agidenim.com

Most sustainable fabric: In the world of color denim, one of our most interesting concepts is Kaleido. The collection of fabrics and jeans are dyed and washed completely with recycled water.

Most versatile fabric: We have the New Authentics fabric range which can be used across styles for all genders. The Easy Laser shades offer a wide range of easy wash downs. It combines the hardworking construction of denim and comfort and features just the right amount of stretch.

On fashion trends: Texture via exaggerated and oversized fabric constructions, as well as colors—especially transient hues like blue and black—are currently in demand. Softness through the use of drape-friendly fabric constructions and blends are also trending.

On technology/investments: AGI Denim has unveiled its new state-of-the-art spinning mill, which was designed to support the future fibers of denim from the ground up.

On raw material costs: Early on during collection planning, we decided not to slow down on innovation research and development. We did see that, with rising raw materials prices, clients were unable to add many new fabrications into their lines.

To support current retail price tickets, we leveraged competencies in our new facilities to unlock efficiencies, especially in spinning and raw materials management. On the other hand, we felt that to remain at the forefront of the industry, we need to continue pushing forward.

GLOBAL DENIM MEXICO Globaldenim.com/mx

Most sustainable fabric: At Global, we don’t only create sustainable fabric collections, but we apply sustainability to our core processes to ensure every fabric we make has top standards and eco qualities. We are proud to say today, all our fabrics contain a percentage of recycled content coming from post-industrial waste and pre-consumer waste. Our Light Ray Collection not only includes recycled cotton, but also fibers like Tencel and Lycra T400 and is made to be the most laser friendly possible.

Most versatile fabric: Our most versatile fabrics are from the Supreme collection. They are also our most super stretch fabrics to date. Having more than 80 percent stretchability, amazing recovery and beautiful shaping qualities, these fabrics resolve many issues happening in the supply chain and on a customer level. Given the rise of online shopping, sizing is a great issue for brands when it comes to returns. This fabric intends to eliminate that struggle.

The stretch qualities allow fabrics to adapt to many sizes, making not only a relief on the retail side but also on the consumer side as we know weight fluctuates. We want the final consumer to have a long-lasting garment that can be worn through [body changes]. Though it’s a topic mostly in the women market, we are introducing the concept for men with three new fabrics.

On fashion trends: Our F/W 23-24 theme is called All Together, which embraces inclusivity and personal style. We have fabrics for men and women, and others that can fit a genderless look. We have fabrics that cater to trends from the ’60s, ’80s and Y2K. On technology/investments: We are making some major changes in our compliance and sustainability departments, bringing innovations in traceability and transparency. We are also adding new machinery which will reduce our energy and water consumption and help us reutilize some chemicals. In the product development space, we are starting to make our first developments with hemp, and hope that this will be a huge category moving forward.

On raw material costs: It is true that there is a price hike due to a shortage of raw materials in the market and their value fluctuations. This heavily impacts the market as it creates a lot of pressure around prices and costs of production. Nevertheless, we are trying to work internally and do everything we can to minimize the price increase for our customers.

CRESCENT BAHUMAN LTD. PAKISTAN Crescentbahuman.com

Most sustainable fabric: One development that stands out is XA-3401-A, a fabric made with a combination of post-consumer and post-industrial cotton waste blended with hemp, recycled polyester and eco-elastane. We used our Naya Dyeing technique for this fabric which saves 98 percent water in dyeing and finishing as compared to conventional process.

Most versatile fabric: Our fabric collection made with [the indigo dyeing solution] Blue Infinity is one of the most versatile products, creating multiple hues of blue shades from the same color. We have developed authentic salt-and-pepper effect fabrics with soft touch and comfort properties to give comfort along with the usage of responsible fibers like biodegradable polyester and elastane.

On fashion trends:We have partnered with designer Miles Johnson to launch CBL x Miles Johnson—A Lighter Touch, a collection that provides a clean, fresh and celebrated Californian look with nostalgic ’70s denim fabrics and shades. Naturally Soft is a collection made from cotton-based fabrics with [the] hand feel of lyocell and modal built in to the fabrics. Forever Dark is a stay dark fabric that doesn’t fade away and its natural color sustains more home laundries than standard fabrics.

On technology/investments: We have engineered a gamechanging technology that takes blue shades to a new level, from classical indigo-like hues to a variety of new shades. Blue Infinity is a new way to color denim warps. It provides a way to produce shades and looks for all denim categories.

CBL has partnered with PaperTale, a blockchain-based transparency solution. Every step in [the] production process will be registered and verified. [This] will enable brands and end customers to see the full journey of their product.

Our journey towards smart factory 4.0 implementation will simply enable us to automate the processes and get real-time data to make optimal and informed decisions, which will benefit us and our customers. In our digital journey from fiber to finish, we are 33 percent along the way.

On raw material costs: The sharp rise in cotton prices has induced us to discover new opportunities and methodologies.

Therefore, we are using alternate fibers and technological support through smart supply chain solutions.

VIDALIA MILLS UNITED STATES Vidaliamills.com

Most sustainable fabric: We consider all of our fabrics to be sustainable as we use small batch local cotton from farms in our region of the country. All of our fabrics use 100 percent USA cotton.

Most versatile fabric: Our Rumsfeld fabric is 100 percent USA cotton with a deep 28 percent pure rope dyed indigo. This fabric is very versatile. It washes down into many beautiful shades and really works well with laser and ozone as well.

On fashion trends: We don't consider Vidalia to be a mill that follow trends. We manufacture core basic classic denim products on the most historic denim looms in the world manufactured in Louisiana. We have a very tight collection at this point, we are a few months away from offering 68-inch-wide denim as well as our core selvedge products.

On raw material costs: As a domestic vendor in the USA we don’t have all of the issues with raw material that others in the world have. For sure the cost of cotton is extremely high, but we will only be passing a small percent of that increase on to our customers.

Denim’s Permanent and Growing Place in a Post-Covid World Consumers are becoming less cautious and looking forward to moving on from Covid-19 precautions. As they return to more “normal” lives after the past two years, interest in wearing denim remains high. New denim collections for F/W 23 and S/S 24 reflect the dichotomy of the past two years, with the comfort and nostalgia of perennial indigo favorites and stylish neutrals, mixed with colorful statements meant to brighten our moods.

Responses to a Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™ survey conducted in March 2022 indicate that more than threefourths of U.S. consumers (79 percent) say they are wearing denim jeans the same (48 percent) or more often (31 percent).

In fact, more than one-third of consumers (36 percent) say that denim jeans are the bottoms they wear most often. That is followed by sweatpants/joggers (19 percent), leggings/jeggings (15 percent),

casual pants (13 percent), and active pants (9 percent).

One potential influence on denim’s current popularity boost is that more consumers have started to resume the activities they participated in before Covid-19 began. Almost half of consumers (49 percent) say they have most recently purchased new clothing for going out and socializing, and 45 percent have purchased new clothes for work, according

A D V E R T O R I A L

year. A good portion of consumers who are looking to buy new denim over the next year are looking to do so in order to expand their denim wardrobes, rather than simply replenishing or replacing garments.

This is up significantly from 28 percent of consumers in 2021, which is a positive sign for the upcoming denim market.

Although consumers are looking to return to a semblance of normalcy, fit and comfort are still of utmost importance.

Over nine in 10 consumers say fit (96 percent), comfort (95 percent), quality (93 percent), and durability (91 percent) are important factors in their denim purchase decisions.

Two in five consumers (40 percent) say they always or usually check the fiber content before purchasing their denim jeans, according to the 2022 Monitor™ research. And what kind of denim are consumers interested in purchasing?

Cotton and cotton-rich denim. Nearly three-fourths of consumers (74 percent) say they prefer their denim jeans to be made of cotton or cotton with spandex for a little stretch.

Shoppers’ preferences for cotton in denim is evident. More than four in five

to the 2022 Monitor™ survey. The survey also reveals that over a third (36 percent) of consumers expect to wear denim jeans more often while working remotely than they did before the pandemic. As many consumers prepare to return to the workplace full time, or at least in a hybrid schedule, some are hopeful for relaxed dress codes as they ease back in. Should the workplace become more casual, nearly two in five consumers (44 percent, up from 39 percent in 2021) say they would expect to wear denim more often.

The majority of consumers (53 percent) say they are wearing denim jeans at least three times a week, and consumers over the age of 35 are more likely than their younger counterparts to wear denim this frequently. Additionally, 81 percent of consumers say they prefer to go places where they can wear jeans.

Looking ahead, consumer interest in denim remains steady and looks even more promising than years past. Similar to 2021, more than four in five consumers (85 percent) say they plan to purchase the same amount (60 percent) or more (25 percent) denim jeans over the next

consumers say cotton-rich jeans are the most authentic (84 percent), sustainable (84 percent), comfortable (83 percent), breathable (83 percent), and the softest (82 percent) compared to manmade fiberblended jeans.

Another good sign for the denim market? This year consumers are also willing to pay more for their denim. On average, consumers in the U.S. say they typically pay $49 for a pair of denim jeans, which is up 12 percent from 2021. The pandemic could also be having an impact on the style of jeans that are popular. Or could it be a Gen-Z influence? A third of consumers (33 percent), say they are now wearing their relaxed or casual cut jeans more often now than pre-Covid, which is up from 26 percent in 2021.

According to a January 2022 Cotton Incorporated “Perceptions of Cotton Survey,” 67 percent of consumers say cotton and cotton blends are best suited for today’s fashions. And Cotton Incorporated’s fashion marketing team forecasts that today’s denim fashions hope to be classic and comfortable, stylish yet approachable, and bring about not only joy but a sense of optimism.

Which have you been wearing most often?

Active Pants

Casual Pants

Jeans

Leggings/ Jeggings

Sweatpants/Joggers

Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle MonitorTM survey, March 2022

FABRICAST COLLECTION F ™

Here are the emerging trends in denim, as spotted and curated by Cotton Incorporated’s fashion marketing team and product development and implementation department—the engine behind the company’s vast FABRICAST™ library of cotton fabric “recipes.”

Cotton Incorporated FABRICAST™ Collection #7273 Cotton-rich stretch denim (97 percent cotton/3 percent spandex) with DRY INDIGO® foamed warp, enzyme washed with Tonello NoStone™ garment finishing technology

VERSATILE INDIGO BLUES This season’s array of blues is reassuringly versatile and hold prominence as the perennial denim favorite. Classically dark indigo keeps its foothold in a wide range of silhouettes while deep, illuminated blue enters the scene with a strong metaverse appeal. Mid shades are highlighted by a modern azure tone that finds its niche in inspired looks as lighter hues round out a compelling collection.

Tonal blues pair of women jeans with a poc Cotton Incorporated FABRICAST™ Collection #7327 100 percent cotton lightweight indigo denim with printed WICKING WINDOWS™ and PCM cooling technology

Cotton Incorporated FABRICAST™ Collection #7289 100 percent cotton denim embroidered with multi-twist novelty yarn, enzyme washed with Tonello NoStone™ garment finishing technology

CITRUS HUES Packing a punch are citrus brights in electric lime and blood orange that brighten our mood and make a statement.

Both can be used sparingly as accents, but for maximum impact, go bold and mix with other high-profile colors, prints and patterns to bring not only joy but a sense of optimism as well.

FASHION TRENDS

A D V E R T O R I A L

ELEVATED NEUTRALS Neutrals are surprisingly varied; they pair well with other hues or can act as a statement unto themselves. Subdued, modern looks, utilitarian looks, or even denim that has distinct craftmanship elevate these colors. Creamy white becomes a staple, while khaki is stylish and approachable. Light and smoky gray create an unexpected statement and can morph from edgy to tailored.

Cotton Incorporated FABRICAST™ Collection #7072-2A Cotton-rich stretch twill denim (98 percent cotton/2 percent spandex) with EarthColors®, Tonello NoStone™ garment finishing technology

used in a n’s denim corduroy cket detail

A mud coating is an unexpected finish on a pair of lightweight twill jeans.

Caption: Cotton Incorporated FABRICAST™ Collection #7072-1C 100 percent cotton broken twill denim with EarthColors®, Tonello NoStone™ garment finishing technology

ABOUT COTTON INCORPORATED Cotton Incorporated, the research and promotion company for cotton, has a range of resources for the denim sector including: denim construction inspirations from the company’s FABRICAST® collection of fabric construction inspirations; 3D digital fabric downloads compatible with Browzwear and CLO available on www.cottonworks.com; consumer and industry market data; and the opportunity to participate in the Blue Jeans Go Green™ denim recycling program that collects unwanted denim and transforms it into a range of new and useful products (www. bluejeansgogreen.org).

DRY INDIGO® is a trademark of Tejidos Royo.

NoStone™ is a trademark of Tonello.

EarthColors® is a trademark of Archroma.

Blue Jeans Go Green™ is a trademark of Cotton Incorporated.

All images in the trend section are courtesy of Cotton Incorporated.

SMALL DETAILS, BIG IMPACT RENEWABLE RESOURCES AND CIRCULAR DESIGN GUIDE FALL/WINTER 23-24 TRIMS COLLECTIONS. w o r d s _____KATE NISHIMURA

Discussions about denim often center on silhouettes and washes, from the waning favorability of the skintight, spandex-laden skinny styles of the 2010s to the popularization of looserfitting wide-leg looks. But a jean’s most unique and compelling characteristics often lie in trims, from labels to buttons and rivets and all the details in between.

In recent seasons, trims manufacturers have been subject to the same pressures as denimmakers themselves when it comes to going green. Using recycled or recyclable materials and designing for disassembly at a garment’s end-oflife stage are some of the considerations on the minds of these makers. Innovative, consciously created products are replacing the deceptively simple elements that have been employed by brands for years.

AVERY DENNISON “Retailers and brands rely on embellishments to help tell their unique story and differentiate themselves in the market, and to connect with consumers,” said Amy Lee, Avery Dennison senior manager of trends and apparel insights. “As we’ve seen across the apparel industry, sustainable solutions are preferred and until recently, there’s been a gap in the market around providing embellishments that are sustainable and don’t compromise bespoke color and graphic stories.”

The company has been developing a suite of products, like labels and embellishments, that its team feels could move the needle in helping brands create fully sustainable offerings. “Our collection of closed-loop woven labels and patches are made from yarns which use post-industrial waste,” Lee said. These elements, which she said maintain similar performance and graphic detail quality to standard recycled polyester, can be dyed to fit a brand’s existing color palette.

Lee has noted a newfound attention to trims in recent years, as brands become more sophisticated in their understanding of their own supply chains, from farm to store shelf. “Brands are looking at every stage of the manufacturing process, from raw materials through to finished goods,” she explained, “and seeing what levers they can pull to lower the environmental impact.”

Many have made circular commitments that they hope to achieve within the next decade, if not the next three to five years. “There’s an increasing demand for products which advance the circular

economy, with the ultimate goal of reducing waste,” she said. No element—not even a label—is too small to warrant consideration.

Shoppers are also developing a more discerning palette when it comes to consumption habits, prizing quality and longevity, as well as versatility, over going totally trendy. “The denim trend cycle will increasingly reflect this, through seasonless, timeless collections and fewer drops that are created more consciously,” Lee said.

Since they plan on holding onto their purchases longer, many shoppers (84 percent, according to Accenture data) gravitate to personalized products, and they aren’t hesitating to shell out for pieces that feel like they were created just for them. “With our newly launched external embellishment portfolio, Embelex, we can help brands offer differentiated SKUs and customization at scale,” Lee said, like individualized patches and heat transfer applications. As shoppers finally begin to emerge from the cocoon of the Covid crisis, “bold and inventive embellishments” that allow them to make a statement are appealing to their sense of wanting to be seen.

Avery Dennison is also investing in technology that makes it easier for brands and consumers to track the provenance of goods.

“As apparel labels become more digital, every item owned will have a unique ID and a means of unlocking vital information about caring for and ultimately recycling the garment,” she projected.

“With legislation moving from voluntary to mandatory, the savviest brands will adopt digital IDs and communications platforms early, and design circularity and traceability into their ranges.”

Avery Dennison

DORLET At the heart of French trims supplier Dorlet’s sustainability strategy for the coming seasons is its Wild Project, a line of hardware designed to be removed and recycled. As its name would suggest, the platform represents a radical departure from the traditional trims-building mentality. While the job of a button or a rivet was once to remain attached to its garment forever, CEO Thibault Greuzat believes that easier disassembly is the key to making sure more jeans get recycled.

“We designed this brand-new line of product with screws for buttons and rivets that are easy to remove, reuse and recycle,” he said. The metals are kept “raw” and untreated by chemicals, underscoring the ease with which they can be melted down and recycled. According to Greuzat, the increased functionality also makes them easier to attach, lending speed to the production process. “Through our Wild Project we try to push the brands to use products that are easy to recycle,” he said, “but more than this, we are also promoting items that can survive through several garments’ lives.”

The company is also soldiering forward with its Diabolo removable buttons, which launched in 2020 with a wooden model that was 100-percent biodegradable. Now, the line contains many different versions, from raw brass to Global Recycled Standard-certified (GRS) materials. Consumers can remove the buttons themselves before sending their jeans off to be recycled, or, they can treat the hardware as an opportunity for personalization, switching it out for another version and revitalizing an old pair of jeans in the process.

Greuzat said Dorlet has seen “more and more requests to adapt the trims, considering fabric and fit” amid a change in consumer appetites for looser denim styles. “This is part of our DNA—to design a product that matches with the garment fabric,” he said.

" WE ARE PROMOTING ITEMS THAT CAN SURVIVE THROUGH SEVERAL GARMENTS' LIVES." – THIBAULT GREUZAT, DORLET

Dorlet

YKK Japan’s foremost fastening products manufacturer YKK is no stranger to circular innovation, having recently released a secondgeneration removable metal trim selection of shank buttons and rivets, according to sustainability manager Brian La Plante.

“We have taken the learnings from our earlier generation to create a product that can use our standard attachment machinery for application on garments, thereby speeding up production,” he said. “We also designed the product to be much faster and easier to remove at the end of the garment’s life.”

In addition to improving the trims’ functionality, YKK is continuing to develop an expanded portfolio of plating technology. The group’s AcroPlating process, which debuted in a limited capacity in 2019, negates the need for harmful chemicals like cyanide, chromium, and selenium. The low-energy process reduces greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions, water use, electricity consumption and sludge generation from plating brass. Shiny finishes on zippers, snaps and buttons can be achieved without the same impacts as traditional electroplating.

Moving forward, the company looks to increase “the variety of finishes and the types of products” that can be put through the AcroPlating process, La Plante said. “For example, we can offer our 3Y metal zipper in an AcroPlating silver finish with a recycled polyester tape,” he added, greatly reducing the adverse environmental impacts usually associated with that process.

YKK is also continuing its research into how its trims fit into the circular ecosystem at large. “Over the last year and half, we have run several pilot projects with brands partners to better understand the challenges that trims pose in circular systems,” La Plante said, “and how to design products that are compatible with these systems.” The company is working with the Ellen MacArthur Foundation to gain a better understanding of the challenges that brands face in creating circular products.

“Interestingly the trend that is impacting our business more than new fits or styling is the requests for our more sustainable products,” he added. “Customers are showing a larger interest in trims made from recycled materials or finished using more environmentally friendly processes than ever before.”

YKK

Cadica

CADICA Cadica’s forthcoming range of denim products “are created with a strong sense of responsibility,” commercial director Carlo Parisatto said, aiming for “fewer products, but richer details and ideas.”

According to the Capri, Italy-founded label and hangtag resource, the newest collection was designed to target unisex and genderneutral styles as a means of reducing waste and sample production.

Blending natural materials and organic fibers with recycled elements, “our mission is to give creative but sustainable and workable suggestions for our fashion customers and partners,” Parisatto said.

Cadica services its denim customers with products like woven labels made with Global Organic Textile Standard-certified (GOTS) organic cotton yarn, tags made from recycled paper products from food waste, patches made with fibers from cactus or anana, and buttons made of 100-percent natural corozo—a vegetable ivory derived from palm kernels, hemp, and mother of pearl. The company also offers prints made with bio-based inks, shopping and shipping bags made from pulp derived from renewable wood, and self-assembling boxes that optimize shipping and minimize transport emissions. “We have worked with particular attention on the new ethical-choice items,” Parisatto said, like felt made with recycled plastic, soluble accessories that disappear in water, and bioplastics and biodegradable resins.

Transparency has also become a priority for brands, so detailed information about each of the company’s Ethical Choice products is available, from material makeup to certifications, the group said. “We have created a special selection of accessories starting from key concepts such as quality, duration and re-use,” Parisatto stated. “The Ethical Choice aims at a new sustainable vision which protects society and the environment,” allowing clothes, finishing, packaging, fabrics, materials and fibers to “re-enter the economy after their use, without ever becoming waste.”

TRIMCO Trimco’s latest collection is 80 percent comprised of sustainable or preferred materials, the group’s sustainability coordinator, Lone Mogensen, told Rivet. “Our main goal is to create collections with as high a sustainable material content as possible,” she said—with the aim of reaching 100 percent recycled, recyclable or organic content in the near future.

Recycled polyester yarns have long been a part of the North American and European labeling and trims provider’s repertoire, but it is continuously introducing new materials and natural material blends to reduce plastic usage and waste. One such innovation is SeaCell, a yarn made with seaweed biomass, and the company recently introduced formulations made with eggshells and coffee grounds to complete its roster of unexpected inputs.

These elements are blended with flax, cotton, viscose and Repreve’s plastic-waste based polyester fiber and offer their own benefits, like odor control and durability. “We love to explore,” Mogensen said, pointing to another novelty: denim jeans buttons made from abandoned fishnets. “The buttons feature a metal top cap, finished using oxidization rather than electroplating to reduce the usage of chemicals.”

According to Mogensen, these innovations represent but a small selection of the consciously sourced products it aims to integrate, more substantially, into its business moving forward.

“We could not remain silent at the changes that drive the world of fashion these days,” she said, including “the increasing number of

" LOOK AND FUNCTIONALITY HAVE TO GO HAND IN H AND..."

– L ONE MOGENSEN, TRIMCO

Trimco

regulations that brands need to answer to in terms of traceability across their supply chain.”

To service brands better from a transparency standpoint, Trimco’s Product DNA supply chain traceability platform has “becomes the pinnacle of our current work,” Mogensen added, helping brands monitor and report on compliance across their value chains. “As a company with a great focus on sustainability, circularity and traceability have always been priority.”

The need for such a solution is only growing stronger across the company’s client portfolio. “We see a strong tendency to add trims and accessories to denim that comply with the materials used for garments,” Mogensen said. “Look and functionality have to go hand in hand, so we want to secure a long-lasting solution, whether we're talking organic cotton or pre-loved fibers.”

Today, the company said its customers are looking for “fun and colorful options,” for their trims, and pre-loved fibers are becoming table stakes. Fortunately, going green hasn’t limited their color palettes, and the sustainability coordinator said she was “pleasantly surprised to witness more special requests” like embroidered patches made with recycled polyester or organic cotton.

While reducing reliance on fossil-fuel-based fibers is a slow going process—“we will not get there overnight,” she added—brands should be encouraged to search for sustainable trims. “We believe that sustainability doesn't bring limitations,” Mogensen said. “On the contrary, it opens to creativity and new ways of thinking."