WHERE San Diego Magazine Fall 2012

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FALL 2012 WHERESD.COM

THE DARK ARTS THE WHERE GUIDE TO FALL’S MOST OFFBEAT CULTURAL HAPPS

San Diego

®

SAN DIEGO BEER WEEK FASHION MAVEN TRINA TURK GLUTEN-FREE DINING THE FLAMING LIPS’ NEW MUSICAL

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where San Diego Fall 2012 50 DINING

PUBLICATION: Where Magazine COLOR INFO: CMYK LIVE: 7.625” x 10.375” BLEED: 8.375” x 11.125”

the guide Restaurants by cuisine and neighborhood

60 ENTERTAINMENT

Festivals, performing arts and sports

68 ATTRACTIONS + MUSEUMS Landmarks, theme parks and exhibitions

71 SHOPPING The best retail destinations

72 NIGHTLIFE

Hot clubs, lounges and cocktail bars

74 TOURS + TRANSPORT Getting out, getting around

76 MAPS

city tours

where now

features

6 Sips + Suds Prepare for San Diego Beer Week with the latest craft beer news. Plus: L.A.’s hip, whiskey-centric Seven Grand opens a North Park branch.

14 The Dark Arts We round up the season’s most offbeat cultural offerings, from psychedelic musicals and avant-garde sound art to zombie comedy flicks. BY MAYA KROTH

8 Hop Talk The women of San Diego’s craft beer scene recommend some non-bitter brews for more delicate palates. 10 Sweets + Treats Hillcrest’s D Bar is more than just desserts. Plus: Locally based Chuao Chocolatier goes sweet-and-savory with its new maple-bacon chocolate bar.

20 Goodbye, Gluten Passing trend or here-to-stay diet plan? Either way, S.D. chefs are catering to the gluten-free lifestyle. BY WILL CARLESS 46 Guide to the Greens Get the 411 on some of San Diego’s top golf courses.

wheretraveler.com Get the city buzz from WHERE editors worldwide online and on your smartphone.

Downtown La Jolla Beach Cities Uptown North Coast Old Town Balboa Park Baja California

ALSO INSIDE 5 HOT DATES 12 Q&A: TRINA TURK 80 30 THINGS WE LOVE

ON THE COVER The Sedia Inquisitora, or inquisitional chair, on loan from Italy’s Museo della Tortura, is one of several artifacts included in the Museum of Man’s Instruments of Torture exhibition, on view now in Balboa Park. See p. 14 for more offbeat fall culture picks. CONNECT WITH US ONLINE

COURTESY SCOTT WHITE CONTEMPORARY ART

14

Ross Bleckner, Untitled, 2011

26 28 30 32 36 38 40 44

JOB NO: LAB-4457 CLIENT: Spa L’Auberge TRIM: 8.125” x 10.875”

Navigate the county

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The essence of Morocco...in Del Mar.

HEAD TO TOE MOROCCANOIL TREATMENT Restore yourself this fall with Spa L’Auberge’s Head to Toe body treatment, featuring beauty editor favorite, MoroccanOil. Rich in Vitamin E, essential fatty acids and antioxidants, MoroccanOil’s key ingredient, argan oil, helps to nourish, hydrate and improve overall skin tone and texture. This ritual begins with a luxurious head and scalp treatment using nutrient-rich MoroccanOil and MoroccanOil Restorative Hair Mask, followed by an exhilarating full body dry brush and exfoliation of the hands and feet using MoroccanOil Body Buff, a natural orange peel exfoliator to polish and transform your skin. Afterwards, relax your body and soul with a full body hot stone massage using MoroccanOil Intense Hydrating Treatment’s botanical blend gel, leaving your skin and body feeling rejuvenated and refreshed. 110 minutes: : : $210 (Originally $250) To make your reservation, call us at 866.360.4404 or 858.793.6493.

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where

SAN DIEGO

MAGAZINE

On the Web: WhereSD.com PUBLISHER Jeff Levy EDITOR Maya Kroth ART DIRECTOR Carol Wakano

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Nicole Bordges MARKETING DIRECTOR Audrey Nimura ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION ARTIST

Heidi Schwindt

Ryan Furuya

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Will Carless, Nina Garin CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Rich Cook, Amy K. Fellows, Bjarne G. Jensen, Rebecca Morquecho, Edwin Santiago, Brett Shoaf, Ashok Sinha, Ian White ACCOUNT MANAGERS

Kerry Brewer, Joanna McLean, Heather Howard-Heintz, Sara Kemp, Mali Mochow, Laura Napolitano CIRCULATION MANAGER Jordan Fraser PRODUCTION MANAGER Dawn Kiko Cheng INTERIM PRODUCTION MANAGER Catherine Lau WEB MANAGER

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Leanne Killian, Beth Moline, Christine Noriega, Sarah Trainor COPY EDITOR Claire Caraska EDITORIAL INTERN Brianna Dotson VICE PRESIDENT OF NATIONAL SALES Rick Mollineaux 202.463.4550 WEST COAST NATIONAL SALES Tiffany Reinhold 714.813.6600 HONORARY PRESIDENT

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Life in the Living Sea, original oil painting by Wyland© 2011

One Ocean. One Planet. One Artist.

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Visit Wyland Galleries Seaport Village 855 W. Harbor Drive, #52 | San Diego, CA 92101 800-WYLAND-5 | Open Daily, 10am – 9pm

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EMAIL Advertising JLevy@WhereSD.com Editorial Editor@WhereSD.com Art Art@WhereSD.com Production Ads@WhereSD.com Website Christina.Xenos@WhereSD.com Circulation Jordan.Fraser@WhereSD.com Plan ahead for your next visit to San Diego— subscribe to where: Single copy $4, 4 issues $16. Contact: Jordan Fraser, phone: 619.260.5599, E-mail: Jordan.Fraser@WhereSD.com © 2012 Southern California Media Group. All Rights reserved Published by Southern California Media Group. where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications.

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*Bring this ad to Wyland Galleries Seaport Village for a free Wyland print. Valid though November 30, 2012. In San Diego, where magazine is pleased to be a member of San Diego Concierge Association, Gaslamp Quarter Association, San Diego Convention & Visitors Bureau, San Diego Historical Society.

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WHAT’S SIZZLING IN SECONDS FLAT

Hot Dates Fall 2012

SEPT. 16-21 SAN DIEGO RESTAURANT WEEK More than 180 restaurants citywide offer three-course tasting menus for $20, $30 or $40 per person. p. 63 SEPT. 26-30 SAN DIEGO FILM FESTIVAL Five-day bonanza in the Gaslamp Quarter showcases independent feature films, documentaries and shorts between glitzy, star-studded parties. p. 62 SEPT. 29-30 ADAMS AVENUE STREET FAIR SoCal’s largest free two-day music festival puts 90 musical acts on seven stages in Normal Heights. p. 62 SEPT. 21-OCT. 31 HALLOWEEN Yes, Halloween lasts all month in San Diego. Can’t-miss events include Scream Zone in Del Mar, downtown’s Haunted Hotel and Balboa Park’s Haunted Trail, plus the adults-only Monster Bash and costume contest in the Gaslamp. p. 63 OCT. 14 LITTLE ITALY FESTA Held near downtown, the Little Italy Festa attracts some 120,000 attendees with Italian food and a street chalk painting display. p. 62 OCT. 24 BOB DYLAN The folk legend performs with his band and opener Mark Knopfler at the Valley View Casino Center. p. 67

Blue Angels at the Miramar Air Show

SEPT. 8-OCT. 14

ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/ DOUGLAS RIAL

The jet set Even as the city has diversified its economy and become a leader in fields like clean energy, San Diego is still a military town at heart. That spirit is never more clearly on display than during the annual Fleet Week, which is actually a multiple-week celebration of our men and women in uniform, kicking off Sept. 8 with the Fleet Week Football Classic at Qualcomm Stadium. Nostalgia seekers should check out the Coronado Speed Festival (Sept. 22-23), a race of classic autos from the ‘50s, ‘60s and ‘70s. The world’s best civilian and military pilots are the stars at this year’s headline event, the Miramar Air Show, where you can see the Blue Angels in action, along with the Air Force F-22 Raptor, a jet car, acrobatic “wing walkers,” skydivers and more (Oct. 12-14). p. 63 NEARBY EATS Located inside a replica WWI French farmhouse, 94th Aero Squadron is a rustic standby that overlooks Montgomery Field Airport. It’s packed with military memorabilia, including tables equipped with headphones so diners can listen to the FAA control tower. 8885 Balboa Ave., Kearny Mesa, 858.560.6771

Y

OCT. 25 LAKERS VS. KINGS Sacramento and L.A. face off on the basketball court in this pre-season match at the Valley View Casino Center. p. 67 NOV. 2-11 SAN DIEGO BEER WEEK Hundreds of events throughout the city—including beer dinners, festivals, rare bottle tastings, cheese pairings, brewery tours, classes and more—celebrate S.D.’s vibrant craft beer culture. p. 63 NOV. 6-DEC. 16 YOSHIMI BATTLES THE PINK ROBOTS The psychedelic music of the Flaming Lips inspires a new musical at the La Jolla Playhouse. p. 14 NOV. 14-18 CIRQUE DU SOLEIL “DRALION” Acrobatic traditions of east and west meet under Cirque du Soleil’s Grand Chapiteau in this latest touring spectacular, featuring trampolines, contortionists and more p. 63 NOV. 14-18 SAN DIEGO BAY WINE + FOOD FESTIVAL SoCal’s largest wine and food fest features cooking classes, wine-tasting seminars, exhibits, wine dinners and celebrity chefs. p. 62 ONGOING SAN DIEGO CHARGERS NFL team takes on opponents including the Kansas City Chiefs, Baltimore Ravens and more at Qualcomm Stadium. p. 67

Oom-pah your way through the season with beer and bratwurst at one of San Diego’s many popular Oktoberfests, taking place from Ocean Beach to La Mesa. p. 62

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where now San Diego

The best in entertainment, shopping and dining.

» DRINKS

All whiskey, all the time. Ain’t life grand? A second location of the popular downtown-L.A. whiskey bar Seven Grand has set up shop in North Park with a look that trend-watching barflies will find familiar—all dim-lit and dark mahogany, heavy on the taxidermy. Yes, “hunting-lodge-chic” is a design scheme that’s totally overdone by now, but for fans of the brown liquor, it’s worth overlooking a slightly outdated décor in favor of the eye-popping list of premium whiskeys, which number 250 and counting (it’ll eventually get to 400). Single malt, blended, highland, lowland, small-batch, white dog, bourbons older than your average college senior: They’re all here, including labels from unexpected places like Japan and India, plus a variety of cask-strength bourbons. Drink ‘em neat, on the rocks or with a splash of water, or have the barkeep mix you up a sazerac or a rye Manhattan. There’s a good selection of local craft beers, too, plus live jazz, a dedicated cigar-smoking patio and nostalgic black-and-white movies playing silently on unobtrusively placed TVs. 3054 University Ave., North Park, 619.269.8820

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Automatic Brewing Co., one of 18 breweries profiled in San Diego’s Top Brewers

THE NAPA VALLEY OF BEER San Diego’s been called America’s Craft Beer Capital, our local brewers beating out entire countries including Germany, Belgium and the UK at beer competitions. The scene even commands its own annual celebration, San Diego Beer Week (Nov. 2-11). A new book, San Diego’s Top Brewers, offers profiles of 18 of the city’s most interesting craft breweries, from the original (Karl Strauss, opened in 1989) to the famous (Stone) to the upstart (Mother Earth Brew, which brews just 150 barrels per year). In the intro, you’ll learn about IBUs, Firkins and other arcane beer terms and how to tell the difference between a dopplebock and a dunkelweizen; fun sidebars shed light on other local beer-industry players, including a yeast scientist and a baker who uses beer in her cupcake batter. Local chefs offers recipes to accompany each brew (Beeramisu, anyone?), all deliciously photographed in full color. Find the book now at Warwick’s (7812 Girard Ave., La Jolla, 858.454.0347), Bay Books (1029 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.435.0070) or online at sdtopbrewers.com.

High Societe One of the men behind Beer Advocate’s Best Beer in the World recently opened his own 16,000-square-foot brewhouse and tasting room right here in San Diego. Travis Smith, whose resume includes stints at Russian River Brewing Co., home to the cult beer Pliny the Younger, has teamed up with Douglas Constantiner of Orange County’s The Bruery to open Societe Brewing Co., named to honor beer as the world’s greatest social uniter, a beverage that people from all walks of life can appreciate and enjoy together. After bonding over their shared love of sour beers, Smith and Constantiner decided to make that style

a centerpiece of their brewing program, aging their sours in wine barrels for up to 2 years before pouring. Other styles in their repertoire include Belgian-inspired brews, stouts and the local favorite, the hoppy IPA (India Pale Ale). This season in the tasting room try a sample of The Harlot, which combines Belgian yeast strains with European hops. (Fun fact: each of the silhouetted figures in the brewery’s logo and on its tap handles corresponds to a real person from the local food-and-beer community: brewers, pub owners, writers, bartenders and friends.) 8262 Clairemont Mesa Blvd., Kearny Mesa, 858.598.5409

Societe Brewing Co.

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where now San

» beer

Diego

Hop Talk Not a fan of San Diego’s famously ultra-bitter beers? The women of San Diego’s craft-beer scene have a few more palate-friendly brews to try. by flavor characteristics. their gueuze beers include castle brewery gueuze Fond tradition, which tastes like sour patch kids, and Liefman’s cuvée brut, which uses sour cherries to temper the tartness. sours are also lighter on alcohol and calories than some heavier styles, like ipas. tasting is the best way to discover your favorite beers, so High dive co-owner ingrid Qua (pictured, above left) lets patrons taste anything on tap. “i encourage the bartenders to get people to try things,” says Qua. “so many women think they don’t like dark beer because they think it’s strong tasting, but it’s not. it’s chocolate and coffee, it’s malt, it’s sugar and caramel.” they’re often pleasantly surprised by beers like stone’s smoked Vanilla porter, which smells and tastes like vanilla, chocolate, malt and coffee. if you decide to dip a toe in the ipa pool and introduce your pal-

ate to s.d.’s super-hoppy styles, the trick is to start slow, with a lager or pilsner like ballast point’s Longfin Lager. beers farther along the bitter scale include delirium tremens, with nutty, round flavors and a hint of bitterness, and alesmith Horny devil, a belgian strong ale. “these are good, easy bitters,” says rachel Zagari, general manager at Underbelly, a ramen and craft beer spot. “you never want to go the ipa route first.” taming a bitter beer by pairing it with the right food is another route. it sounds odd, but during a tasting at the High dive, they paired a ballast point sculpin ipa with a lemon bar. “suddenly the women started tasting the citrus in the sculpin and realized there are other tastes that underlie the bitter,” Qua says. “it’s really exciting bringing people over to the craft beer side.”

Blind Lady Ale House

DETAILS Blind Lady Ale House 3416 adams ave., normal Heights, 619.255.2491 Green Flash Brewing Co. 6550 mira mesa blvd., mira mesa, 858.622.0085 High Dive 1801 morena blvd., bay park, 619.275.0460 Ritual Tavern 4095 30th st., north park, 619.283.1618 Underbelly 750 w. Fir st., Little italy, 619.269.4626

(top) courtesy san diego top brewers book, (bottom) robert tardio

if, like many women, you’re always saying “i don’t like beer,” chances are you just haven’t tasted the right one to please your palate—yet. while san diego is known for hopped-up and super-bitter beers like green Flash palate wrecker and stone ruination ipa, there’s much more to beer than bitterness. at local brewpubs and breweries, women are downing brown ales, wheat beers, stouts, porters and sours, often because these styles have more balanced flavors that appeal to the feminine palate. Lee chase, the head brewer and co-owner at Blind Lady Ale House, says he’s noticed a difference in the way men and women respond to different beers. “women have better palates than men, and they’re better at sensory evaluation,” he says. “if anything, guys are more prone to tolerate some flaws in beers and women might pick them out and say i’m not going to drink that.” numerous scientific studies support his observation, including one of 8,900 danish kids done by the university of copenhagen, which found that girls have more acute senses of taste and smell than boys. this continues into adulthood. two of the easiest-drinking styles of beer for the bitteraverse are german-style wheat beer and belgian white ale, brewed with wheat, orange peel

and coriander. ballast point’s wahoo wheat beer and coronado brewing company’s orange avenue wit, a california take on a belgian witbier, are popular pours at bay park’s High Dive. many also find beers brewed with a touch of fruit seductive. apricots, raspberries or grapefruit are added during brewing to leave a subtle fruity taste. abita’s raspberry Lager is a hazy purple beer with berry flavors; stiegl grapefruit radler (half lager, half grapefruit soda) is uniquely refreshing, and the green Flash summer saison is a farmhouse ale brewed with oranges, grains of paradise and ginger. Lisa Hinkley, co-owner of Green Flash Brewing Co., discovered she loved sour beers (also known as belgian “gueuze” beers) after she and her husband started their brewery in 2002. “it’s an acidy sour, like a fruit,” says Hinkley. “it is a very funky, different flavor. at first i didn’t get it, but i was not to be deterred.” clea Hantman, a co-owner at blind Lady ale House, asks diners about their favorite wines to help them find a beer. “when people are wine drinkers, i’m going to see if they’re interested in sours because i think it has a lot of the complexity that wine has,” says Hantman. “people who like wine will be surprised because they don’t taste like what we think of as beer.” the diversity of sours abounds: tart Lychee sounds like a yogurt flavor, but it’s actually a beer by orange county’s the bruery that appears at the High dive. there’s a section of gueuze and sour beers at Ritual Tavern in north park, where the user-friendly menu groups brews

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where now San

Diego

» sweets

D is for Decadent

STILL NEED HI RES FROM MAYA

tk caption

bacon: it’s what’s for dessert

The “D” in D Bar stands not just for the desserts crafted by pastry chef Keegan Gerhard, a regular face on the Food Network, but also for dinner and drinks. Located in a cavernous, skylit space on Fifth Avenue near the heart of Hillcrest, newly opened D Bar features a seasonally changing menu of savory eats that includes dishes like vanilla-bacon-wrapped shrimp poppers, salads and sandwiches like the cheeky “sorta a torta,” with pulled pork, avocado, a “slaw situation” and sweet potato fries. There are desserts that would make your inner child freak out, like the waffle ice cream sandwich and a buildyour-own-sundae option, as well as sophisticated cocktails designed to suit your outer adult (we dig the refreshing Peppermelon, made with Bombay gin, black pepper, honey and watermelon). There’s craft beer, too, plus a brief but globetrotting wine list that runs from Japanese sparkling sake and Canadian ice wine to Spanish albariño and Napa Valley pinot noir. 3930 Fifth Ave., Hillcrest, 619.299.3227 Chuao’s maple bacon bar

Sweet and savory have been estranged too long, says locally based Chuao Chocolatier. The artisan chocolatier has recently been experimenting with unexpected flavors to add a salty depth and crunch to its top-flight Venezuelan chocolate. Last year the company made a splash with a crunchy potato-chip chocolate bar, and this season they’re taking it up a notch with a milk chocolate bar spiked with bits of crisp bacon, a hint of maple syrup and bonfire smoked sea salt. It’s a winning combination (though one that may be too subtle for the most fervent bacon devotees). Find Chuao’s maple bacon bar at any of their San Diego chocolate cafés, at the Lumberyard in Encinitas (937-C S. Coast Highway 101, 760.635.1444) at La Jolla’s University Towne Centre (4465 La Jolla Village Drive H-09, 858.546.1463) and at Del Mar Highlands Shopping Center (3485-A1 Del Mar Heights Road, 858.755.0770). 10 WHERESD.COM FALL 2012

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where now San

Diego

» q+a trina turk

With a sleek, Louise Brooks-style bob and clothes that would make any ’60s or ’70s movie siren swoon, designer Trina Turk embodies the retro-chic luxury of her lifestyle brand. Her empire includes women’s ready-to-wear, a menswear line called Mr. Turk (designed by her husband, Jonathan Skow) and a home-décor collection. Turk gives WHERE her take on fall trends, travel and how to look chic on the road. —Rosie Leonetti

What inspired your three-part women’s collection this season? Let’s talk about Fall 2, which we call “Hollywood Heroines.” My inspiration was classic, lady-like heroines like Grace Kelly, Tippi Hedren. Fall 3 is called “English Eccentrics,” and this is where the colors get really bright and pop with a bright turquoise, a bright fuchsia. [Editor’s note: Fall 1, “Modernist Maverick,” arrived in stores in midsummer and was inspired by French textile designer Sonia Delaunay.] What is your idea of the perfect travel outfit? I actually have a uniform. I wear skinny pants, usually black, a striped T-shirt and either my trusty safari jacket that has been around the world with

me, or a short raincoat, depending upon where I’m going or what time of year it is. And I always carry a cardigan or wrap in my carry-on. When choosing shoes for travel, how do you bridge the gap between style and comfort? That’s the hardest thing for me to edit because if I’m going out at night, I want to wear a heel and I want to wear something cool. I go to New York a lot for work, and so during the day, running around from appointment to appointment, a flat shoe is a great thing, but I’m one of those people who might carry shoes around in my bag with me, and slip them off and on. Having a tote bag or a handbag that’s big enough to carry an extra pair of shoes is worth it. What do you most enjoy about arriving in a new destination? As old-fashioned as it may be, I love to get a map from the concierge—an oldfashioned paper map­— and actually figure out where I am in the city,

check out the lay of the land and plot out what I’d like to do on there and how I’m going to accomplish that. If you could impart one piece of fashion wisdom to travelers, what would it be? Don’t take as much as you think you need to take. Laying out every single thing that you’re planning on putting in the suitcase before you actually start putting it in the suitcase is worth doing because then it leaves you room for something that you buy at your destination. How much room do you leave for new purchases? I try not to check luggage, ever. I have a nylon American Apparel bag that folds up really small, and I bring that with me. So if there is something I must have, then I might have to break down and check it on the way back. I’ve never checked anything on the out-going flight though! Trina Turk is sold at Nordstrom and Neiman Marcus. For the full interview, see wheretraveler.com/fashion

jonathan skow

What is on your fall fashion radar? Patterned pants, whether they be plaid or houndstooth or a printed pajama pant. There’s a lot of gorgeous, vibrant color for fall: fuchsias, pomegranates, teal, persimmon-y oranges.

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T H E DA R K A R T S The WheRe guide To WeiRd, Wild and Wacky fall culTuRe. By M AyA K ROT H

MEDIEVAL TORTURE DEVICES

➸A decade ago, the San Diego

Museum of Man mounted a popular yet controversial exhibition of bizarre torture devices from the 16th through 19th centuries, from a chastity belt to the Iron Maiden. Now the museum again displays similar artifacts, this time putting them in a human-rights context that gives the implements— including the rack, thumbscrews and a guillotine—a whole new relevance in a post-9/11, post-Abu Ghraib world. With items on loan from the Museo della Tortura in Italy, Instruments of Torture examines the darker side of human nature—our capacity to inflict intentional suffering on other human beings—and acts as a potent reminder that torture is far from just ancient history. Through July 14, 2013, at San Diego Museum of Man, 1350 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.239.2001, museumofman.org

The Iron Maiden (left) and spiked collar (above) at Instruments of Torture

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PINK ROBOTS & FLAMING LIPS

➸ Her name is Yoshimi, and she's the

heroine of a world-premiere musical at the La Jolla Playhouse. That's right: one of San Diego's most prestigious theaters is teaming up with arguably the weirdest band in rock 'n' roll—psychedelic rockers the Flaming Lips—to present Yoshimi Battles the Pink Robots, a musical about a young Japanese artist who journeys alone into a fantastical

robot-world where evil forces threaten to destroy her. Directed by the Playhouse's multiple Tony Award-winning Director Emeritus Des McAnuff (Jesus Christ Superstar, Jersey Boys), the show is being billed as a dazzling multimedia experience and an allegory of our modern battle for progressive thought and individuality in the face of blind acceptance and conformity. In addition to Yoshimi, the musical also features tunes from Lips albums The Soft Bulletin and At War with the Mystics. Nov. 6-Dec. 16 at La Jolla Playhouse, 2910 Jolla Village Drive, 858.550.1010, lajollaplayhouse.org

tion from their California farm to an internment camp in the wastelands of Wyoming in the wake of the attack on Pearl Harbor. Coinciding with the 60th anniversary of the implementation of the camps, the worldpremiere musical Allegiance opens the Old Globe Theatre's new season, with music and lyrics by Jay Kuo and a cast that includes Tony Award-winning actress Lea Salonga (Miss Saigon, Les Misérables) and Telly Leung (Godspell, Rent). Sept. 6–Oct. 20 (previews Sept. 6–15) at the Old Globe, 1363 Old Globe Way, Balboa Park, 619.23.GLOBE, theoldglobe.org

A TREKKIE TAKES THE STAGE

DANCERS ON A TRAIN

recognizable as Sulu from Star Trek, takes a serious turn as Sam Omura, a World War II veteran compelled by a meeting with a young journalist to reflect upon his family's reloca-

transportation system may seem like strange bedfellows, but when they come together in the annual Trolley Dances, now in its 14th year, the unusual combination works. Guests

➸ Lovably offbeat actor George Takei,

➸ Modern dance and San Diego's public

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(Clockwise from left) Susan Graham's sugar sculptures at Lux; the cast of The Old Globe's Allegiance; Mel Bochner's Blah Blah Blah (2010) at the Quint booth at Art San Diego; Trolley Dances; San Diego Film Festival honoree Gus Van Sant.

board the trolley in La Mesa and get off at six predetermined stops along the rail line; at each stop, some 50 adventurous dancers perform work choreographed specifically in response to the site. Organizers promise a "circus-like" atmosphere thanks to participating choreographers including Greg Sample (of So You Think You Can Dance and Cirque du Soleil fame) and French circus duo WillyGood. Held over two weekends, the event's $30 admission price includes an all-day trolley pass; the two-hour tours leave on the hour between 10 am and 3 pm from Grossmont Transit Center, 8601 Fletcher Parkway, La Mesa. Sept. 29-30 and Oct. 6-7, 619.225.1803, sandiegodancetheater.org

THE FINE ART OF PAPER DOLLS

➸ The pristine white walls of downtown's

Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego are

a long way from City Heights, one of San Diego's most diverse urban neighborhoods and the inspiration for MCASD's latest exhibition, Margaret Noble: 44th and Landis. Noble, who grew up in the neighborhood, mixes imagery borrowed from '80s culture (Ms. PacMan, hip-hop) with Victorian cut-paper dolls to evoke the experience of a child navigating the streets of an inner-city gentrification. Noble, who holds an MFA in sound art from The School of the Art Institute of Chicago, also created 14 handmade paper speakers that broadcast an "experiential soundtrack" throughout the mixed-media installation; Noble will be on hand during two live-sound performances, slated for Oct. 20 and Nov. 17, that will activate the installation with voice and electronic instruments. Through Jan. 20, 2013, at MCASD, 1001 Kettner Blvd., downtown, 858.454.3541, mcasd.org

UNDEAD SUSHI, GAY ZOMBIES & GHOSTS—OH MY!

➸ With more than 120 flicks from 20

countries, the programming at the critically lauded San Diego Asian Film Festival covers a whole range of subject matters and genres, not all of them offbeat, but we love this year's

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Left: The music of the Flaming Lips inspires La Jolla Playhouse's world-premiere musical; above: Art of Élan founders Kate Hatmaker and Demarre McGill. Opposite: Ruud van Empel's World #7 (2005); below right: a scene from Dead Sushi at San Diego Asian Film Festival.

slate of more unusual cinematic fare. Like Remington and the Curse of the Zombadings, just your everyday, run-of-the-mill gay zombie comedy-horror flick from the Philippines; Dead Sushi, a Japanese film about mutant killer sashimi, and I am a Ghost, a '70s-style supernatural mystery about a clairvoyant who winds up doing some spectral psychotherapy in order to get a havoc-wreaking spirit to stop haunting a family's home. Nov. 1-9 at UltraStar Hazard Center Cinemas, 7510 Hazard Center Drive, Mission Valley, 619.400.5911, sdaff.org

CROSS-BORDER CLASSICAL

➸ By dubbing its fifth season "Steppin'

Out" and performing in an art museum rather than a concert hall, the innovative Art of Élan reinforces its aim to take the stuffiness out of chamber music by infusing it with influences from unexpected places, whether that means teaming up with a local indie-rock band or presenting a program inspired by Mexican folk music. This fall's Mexicali showcases work by contemporary

Mexican composers like Arturo Márquez as well as seminal ones like 18th-century guitarist Santiago de Murcia, while A Fiddler's Tale is a Stravinsky-inspired narrative written by jazzman Wynton Marsalis about a female violinist who sells out to a diabolical record company exec. Oct. 11 and Nov. 29, San Diego Museum of Art, 1450 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.692.2081, artofelan.org

SINISTER PERFECTION

➸ Rudd Van Empel's digitally enhanced

photo collages present a vision of perfect beauty that's just a little bit ... off. Strange Beauty, on view at the Museum of Photographic Arts this fall, marks the Dutch artist's first American solo exhibition, with more than 40 captivating works created by blending separately photographed images of wide-eyed models, often children, and lush natural details that together create an idyllic yet subtly sinister effect. Oct. 12-Feb. 1, 2013, at the Museum of Photographic Arts, 1649 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.238.7559, mopa.org

ATTENTION-GRABBING GALLERIES

➸ Ho-hum presentation just won't cut it at

the fourth annual Art San Diego, a contemporary art fair where some 60 gallerists from up and down the West Coast and as far away as Korea, China, Australia and Argentina will compete for the attention of local collectors with ever more eye-grabbing displays. Among the highlights are an exhibition of Andy Warhol-themed wooden surfboards from famed shaper Tim Bessell at Alexander Salazar Fine Art, and Mel Bochner's bold, provocative textual monoprints at Quint Contemporary Art, whose booth will also feature an exotic plant installation by local artist Keenan Hartsten. Sept. 6-9 at the Balboa Park Activity Center, 2145 Park Blvd., artsandiego2012.com

ROCK THE RED (SHAG) CARPET

➸ The annual San Diego Film Festival

celebrates quirkier movies that seldom get a shot at the megaplex, but there's fun to be

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had outside the theater, too. Like at a block party themed after Almost Famous, Cameron Crowe's semiautobiographical film about a teenage rock critic growing up in San Diego. On Sept. 28, festival organizers will carpet a downtown street with red shag and show the film on a giant outdoor screen for party guests dressed up in full 1970s regalia—the original Penny Lane is even slated to attend. Another highlight of the fest: a retrospective of the films of Gus Van Sant (Good Will Hunting, Milk), held at the Sherwood Auditorium in La Jolla with the Oscar-nominated director in attendance. Sept. 26-30, various venues, 619.818.2221, sdff.org

BLEEPS, BLOOPS & THE BOOPER

➸ Curator Bonnie Wright has her finger on

the pulse of avant-garde, experimental music and brings her most wonderfully weird finds to San Diego with Fresh Sound, a new music concert series at Space4Art. A highlight of this fall's program is the Sept. 5 performance by improvisational duo Negativwobblyland

(aka Peter Conheim of the sampling art collective Negativland and Jon Leidecker of Wobbly). Their set centers on the use of something called a Booper, a 1970s-era analog feedback instrument created entirely from salvaged radio and amplifier parts that generates an endlessly changing stream of living electronic sound. Sept. 5, Oct. 2, Oct. 18 and Nov. 30 at Space4Art, 325 15th St., East Village, 619.987.6214, henceforthrecords.com/freshsound

but also the process by which those works are produced. So visitors will be able to watch as Graham creates a temporary installation inspired by a wallpaper pattern from her childhood bedroom, rendered entirely in sugar and porcelain. In studio Sept. 6-Oct. 6; on exhibit Sept. 6-Oct. 27 at Lux Art Institute, 1550 S. El Camino Real, Encinitas, 760.436.6611, luxartinstitute.org

SUGAR-SPUN GUNS

➸ The unexpected juxtaposition of fragile

and ferocious is a signature of artist Susan Graham, whose work is inspired by the very American artifacts of her Midwestern upbringing: guns, trucks, lawnmowers and other iconic forms, which she painstakingly sculpts from delicate materials like sugar as a way to explore themes of anxiety and fear in Midwestern culture. This fall Graham is in residence at the uniquely interactive Lux Art Institute in Encinitas, which is dedicated to showing guests not only art objects

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say goodbye t

Gluten-free tofu curry at the brand-new True Food Kitchen in Fashion Valley Mall.

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e to gluten WHETHER IT’S MERE FAD OR A LIFESTYLE THAT’S HERE TO STAY, LOCAL CHEFS ARE CATERING TO THE NEEDS OF A NEW BREED OF DINER. By will carless

I

s it just the latest in a long line of dieting fads to invade Southern California? Or perhaps it’s the closest thing to a nutritional panacea—a harmonizing technique to bring one’s body back into the regular rhythm of the earth? Whatever is driving the trend towards gluten-free eating, one thing’s for sure: the dining establishment in San Diego is taking notice. In the last couple of years, a few local restaurants have sprung up that cater specifically to diners seeking gluten-free fare. But local and visiting foodies with gluten allergies or on gluten-free diets needn’t limit their choices to these select spots. Several local restaurateurs now ensure their menus contain a bevy of gluten-free options, or dishes that can at least be tweaked or refined to cater to a diner’s needs. “People used to give me a blank stare when I asked for glutenfree,” says Rachel Helmer, a local food blogger. “That no longer happens here. The restaurants are getting really knowledgeable, and they’re happy to please.” Gluten is everywhere. It’s not just in bread and baked goods, but also in everything from pasta to soy sauce to imitation duck meat. As a result, dining out can be a minefield for sufferers of gluten allergy, or for diners who have chosen to avoid eating gluten for health reasons. Eating gluten-free isn’t just about avoiding the dinner rolls, it can also mean forgoing much of the menu. So, for some diners, San Diego’s shift towards providing gluten-free options is a godsend. And if one local establishment embodies a full-fledged commitment to gluten-free dining, it’s Casa de Luz in North Park. This space isn’t just about redefining food, but also aims to fundamentally shift diners’ perspectives about the fuel they’re putting inside their body.

Wayo Longoria, who calls himself Casa de Luz’s “steward” (he hates the term “owner” almost as much as the word “restaurant”), described his approach as “using food as medicine.” As such, Casa de Luz only serves one lunch and dinner option daily and encourages patrons to sit communal-style around large wooden tables. “Think of it like visiting your grandmother’s house,” Longoria says. “She doesn’t have a menu, just lovingly prepared, delicious food.” Everything Casa de Luz serves is both 100-percent organic and gluten-free, including a daily selection of desserts. Granola is also served at the communal tables each morning, and Longoria has teamed up with a group from the University of California, San Diego to teach healthy cooking classes above the restaurant. On the other end of the gastronomic spectrum from Casa de Luz’s soups, whole grains and roasted vegetables, the menu at local dining maven Brian Malarkey’s boisterous downtown restaurant Searsucker emphasizes rich, decadent proteins. You won’t find any yoga going on at this buzzing spot, which is packed with partygoers on weekend nights, but you will find a chef willing and able to put a gluten-free spin on your thresher shark, crab cake or flank steak. “We’re in Southern California! We’ve been doing carb-free and gluten-free for a long time,” says Malarkey. “At all of my restaurants, whatever the customer wants, we make it happen.” Malarkey says he believes gluten-free is the latest diet fad, but stressed that’s not at all a bad thing. Having cut down on the carbs himself thanks to a spree on Atkins, Malarkey’s happy to cater to any whim, no matter how serious or fleeting it may be.

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“So many of the gluten-free baked goods on offer out there just aren’t very good,” says bakery owner Mike Barbanti. “We wanted to change that.”

CASA DE LUZ 2920 University Ave., North Park 619.550.1857 SEARSUCKER 611 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter 619.233.7327 CUSP Hotel La Jolla, 7955 La Jolla Shores Drive, La Jolla 858.551.3620 BROCKTON VILLA 1235 Coast Blvd., La Jolla 858.454.7393 TRUE FOOD KITCHEN Fashion Valley Mall, 7007 Friars Road, Mission Valley 619.810.2929 2GOOD2B BAKERY 204-H N. El Camino Real, Encinitas 760.942.4663

Across town, newly opened Cusp at the Hotel La Jolla employs a similar attitude. Executive Chef Donald Lockhart is no stranger to cooking for diverse diets. He spent a couple of years cheffing in Egypt, and Lockhart buzzes with ideas to banish gluten or other allergy-inducing ingredients while making a dish even more exciting: Perhaps a pasta made from chickpea flour? Or a rich sauce to drizzle over lamb made with yogurt instead of cream? Lockhart describes his menu as “coastal Mediterranean,” and you’ll find dishes inspired by North Africa (Moroccan-spiced king salmon), Italy (kampachi carpaccio) and Spain (mussels with chorizo and roasted garlic)— all of which are gluten-free. Brockton Villa, perched atop stunning La Jolla Cove, offers a wide range of gluten-free options that are specifically marked on its menu. Several dishes were designed with modification in mind, and even the breakfast options err on the side of proteins rather than carbs. Take the pulled pork and chorizo chilaquiles. This savory mound of juicy meat and earthy corn tortillas doesn’t contain a speck of gluten, and it’s a hearty rival to the restaurant’s famous “coast toast.” Similarly, True Food Kitchen in Mission Valley clearly defines the gluten-free options available on its menu, and they’re plentiful. The new restaurant, part of a small chain, is working hard to bring concepts like farm-to-table and sustainable dining to megachain-dominated food courts, and its choice of location, in the heart of one of the city’s bustling shopping malls, speaks to this commitment. “That’s the celebration for us—to expose a large number of people to really, really good, nutritional food made with locally sourced ingredients,” says General Manager

Anthony Viveros. “And providing gluten-free options is a big part of what we do.” A great stop for a mid-shopping-spree lunch or an après-sale dinner, True Food Kitchen’s delicious gluten-free fare includes a Mediterranean chopped salad with quinoa, feta, cucumber, olives, cherry tomatoes and Marcona almonds; a turkey burger happily nestled between two pieces of gluten-free bread; and the heavenly, molten-centered flourless chocolate cake, wedged between a layer of caramel and a ball of homemade gluten-free ice cream, sprinkled with cocoa nibs. It’s a must-have dessert. Dessert is, in fact, one of the most difficult meals to replace when one goes gluten-free, but thankfully there’s 2Good2B Bakery and Café in Encinitas, which co-founder Mike Barbanti says he created in order to fill a much-needed nutritional niche. “So many of the gluten-free baked goods on offer out there just aren’t very good,” Barbanti says. “We wanted to change that.” 2Good2B offers breakfasts ranging from baked muffins to omelets, and a lunch/dinner menu that includes a wide selection of sandwiches and pizzas. Barbanti also raves about his desserts, like the banana raisin bread pudding and sticky cinnamon rolls, plus cupcakes, lemon bars and brownies, which Barbanti says are some of his best-sellers. The message is clear in San Diego’s culinary world: Whether it’s a fad or the future of modern cooking, glutenfree is a trend that’s high on the minds of the city’s chefs and restaurateurs, who continue to expand their commitment to serving delicious food while banishing gluten from an ever-increasing portion of the menu.

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Clockwise from opposite: True Food Kitchen; oysters at Brockton Villa; 2Good2B Bakery’s top-selling glutenfree cupcakes.

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exploring

Downtown

Left to right: the historic Balboa Theatre; the harbor and skyline at sunset; browsing the Gaslamp Quarter’s many boutiques and galleries.

The past and present come together in San Diego’s lively, historic downtown neighborhoods.

Gaslamp Quarter

Businessman Alonzo Erastus Horton envisioned San Diego as a bustling port city, and in 1867 he spent $264 for 800 acres he called “New Town.” Today, New Town is known as the historic Gaslamp Quarter, or simply “The Gaslamp.” Comprising more than 16 blocks, the Gaslamp stretches from Broadway to Har­bor Drive (just north of the Convention Center), with Fourth, Fifth and Sixth ave­nues as its main thoroughfares. Anchoring the area’s northwest end is Horton Plaza, a small square with a bubbling fountain on the corner of Broadway and Fourth. The Gaslamp’s immaculately preserved Victorian-style buildings are home to dozens of restaurants, clubs, ­theaters and retailers. Several tour guides offer an insider’s look at the Gaslamp (see p. 74), or create your own: The area can be easily covered on foot, or rent from Bike Revolution (522 Sixth Ave.) to navigate the district on two wheels. If you start your exploration at the southern end of the Gaslamp, you’ll find Chuck Jones Gallery (232 Fifth Ave.), one of only three in the nation showcasing the work of the Oscarwinning animator responsible for the Road Runner, Wile E. Coyote and Marvin the Martian. Shop for designer resale at Carolyn’s (310 K St.) or pre-owned luxury watches at Nikki & Co. Fine Jewelers (562 Fifth Ave.). Find clothing, towels and bedsheets made from bamboo at Cariloha (435 J St.). For national retailers, venture farther up Fifth, where you’ll find well-known stores like footwear boutique Sketchers (480 Fifth Ave.), Quiksilver (402 Fifth Ave.), Urban Outfitters (665 Fifth Ave.) and Dutch brand G-Star Raw (470 Fifth Ave.), with styles for men and women. Or make your way over to Westfield Horton Plaza (see p. 71), a multilevel outdoor mall with a kaleidoscopic design that kicked off the revitalization of downtown when it was constructed in 1985. It’s now home to some 100 restaurants and shops including White House Black Market, Macy’s, BCBG and more. There’s also culture to be had at the mall: San Diego Repertory Theatre performs on the Lyceum Theatre stage, and the historic Balboa Theatre anchors the shopping center’s eastern edge, at Fourth Avenue and E Street (see p. 63). After a long day of shopping and sightseeing, sate your hunger at one of the Gaslamp’s 100-plus restaurants and cafés, ranging from American to Chinese to Indian to Thai to steak and seafood (see dining guide, p. 61). Parking can be dicey in the Gaslamp; a garage is your best bet. Horton Plaza, with entrances on Fourth Avenue and G Street, offers up to three hours of free parking if you self-

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validate at machines on levels 1, 3 and 5. Be sure to note your “vegetable” or “fruit” level; it can be a confusing garage (619.239.8180). Park It On Market is a 500-space garage at Market Street with entrances on Sixth and Seventh avenues (619.232.1271); while 6th & K Parkade offers 1,230 spots, with entrances on Sixth and Seventh avenues (619.233.6624). For more information, call the ­Gas­lamp Quarter Association (619.233.5227).

Downtown’s Core

Arts and culture abound downtown. Sites worth exploring include the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego and the New Children’s Museum, an interactive art/play place for kids of all ages (see p. 70). The San Diego Chinese ­Historical Museum (404 Third Ave.) also features a beautiful garden with a koi pond. More than a century old, the San Diego Symphony performs at Copley Symphony Hall (see p. 66), while Broadway/San Diego brings touring shows to the Civic Theatre (1100 Third Ave.), and Spreckels Theatre (121 Broadway) hosts many performing arts events throughout the year. See page 63 for theater listings.

(opposite, from left) NELS AKERLUND, BRETT SHoaF/ARTISTIC VISUALS, ASHOK SINHA

East Village

The construction of Petco Park (100 Park Blvd.), home of the San Diego Padres, helped gentrify this once-gritty neighborhood east of the Gaslamp. Eight years on, it’s now rife with entertainment options. Pick up a creamy burrata at Venissimo Cheese (871 G St.), which also offers cheesemaking classes, or grab a fine California cabernet sauvignon at Bacchus Wine Market (647 G St.), a retail shop that also serves wine and beer by the glass in its wine bar.

You can even snag a Tony Gwynn jersey at the Padres Team Store (J St. at Seventh Ave.). The area’s burgeoning art scene includes a few notable galleries: the edgy Periscope Project, built from stacked shipping cargo containers near the corner of 15th and K, and Alexander Salazar Fine Art, featuring mixedmedia work from emerging and mid-career contemporary artists (640 Broadway).

You can also shop for vintage and modern furniture, art and home accessories at chic @HOM (2310-B Kettner Blvd.) or Mixture (2210 Kettner Blvd.), identifiable by its large roll-up garage door. Foodies won’t want to miss the Saturday morning Mercato on Date Street, one of the city’s most popular farmer’s markets (619.233.3769).

Little Italy

Embarcadero

A few blocks northwest of ­downtown, Little Italy is home to fabulous restaurants, galleries, boutiques and markets dotting the main drag, India Street. Highlights include Bottlecraft (2161 India St.), a craft beer shop and tasting room; Noel-Baza Fine Art (2165 India St.), a wellrespected contemporary art gallery featuring legends and locals alike; trendy women’s boutique Melero (1918 India St.), and Bella Stanza (1501 India St.), with Murano glass, Italian ceramics and more. Take time to explore the streets branching off from India, too: The colorful cottages of the Fir Street Shops include Carol Gardyne Studio (1840 Columbia St.), with hand-painted silk scarves, and Vitreum (619 W. Fir St.), specializing in simple, elegant ceramics. On Cedar, Vocabulary (414 W. Cedar St.) is a chic boutique with clothes from up-and-coming designers. A gelato from Pappalecco (1602 State St.) is a nice reward after a long day. Running parallel to India Street, Kettner Boulevard forms the spine of the art-anddesign district. A gallery cluster near the corner of Kettner and Kalmia includes cool Subtext Gallery (2479 Kettner Blvd.), focused on lowbrow and graphic artists. Monthly on the second Friday, many area galleries host evening receptions.

Another entertainment destination is Seaport Village (see p. 71), a 14-acre outdoor plaza with shops and a beautiful 19th-century carousel. The bayside boardwalk is ideal for walking to and from the Convention Center. Grab an iced cappuccino from Upstart Crow Trading Company (835-C W. Harbor Drive) and head for the Embarcadero Marina Park, which offers bike and jogging trails, basketball courts and picnicking. Continue north along the harbor to Broadway Pier, where you can embark on sightseeing excursions or catch the Coronado Ferry (1050 N. Harbor Drive), which travels across the bay several times daily. The USS Midway (see p. 71) invites the public to learn about America’s longestserving aircraft carrier. Many of the storytelling docents are veterans who served on the carrier over its 47-year history. The floating Maritime Museum (see p. 70) features several historic ships, including the HMS Surprise from the film Master and Commander. Keep your eyes open for Urban Trees, a public art project consisting of tree-like sculptures—many of which move with the bay breeze—placed along Harbor Drive. For a map of these neighborhoods, see page 78. For information about restaurants in this area, see page 61.

tease, please

great find Located near some of the Gaslamp’s hippest nightlife is Tease, a new boutique that caters to the cool, club-going young woman by mixing big-name brands like Joe’s Jeans and Wildfox with jewelry and accessories from local designers. The versatile, eye-teasing collection highlights funky, edgy options (think: skull-printed leggings and vintage graphic tees) as well as more feminine picks, like dainty lace dresses and chiffon maxi skirts. If you’re just looking for something to help you cope with the Southern California sun, stop by to browse their selection of vintage sunglasses from designers like Dior and YSL, or pick up a flirty animal-print bikini. 435 Island Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.795.2690.

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exploring

La Jolla

Left to right: the gateway to the La Jolla cave; Nancy Rubins’ Pleasure Point at the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego; the view from Salk Institute.

La Jolla is a jewel sparkling with art, theater, fine dining, boutique shopping and the area’s best outdoor recreation.

BOUTIQUES AND GALLERIES

La Jolla’s spectacular streets are lined with high-end boutiques, antique stores and art galleries. Prospect Street and Girard Avenue form the spines of the village shopping district, but don’t be afraid to venture off onto side streets, where hidden gems await, including Brooks Brothers (1055 Wall St.); the boutique stationery shop Sweet Paper, run by design-savvy sisters (7660-A Fay Ave.), and Las Manos del Artesano (7940 Herschel Ave.), a gallery showcasing Latin American folk art, jewelry, pottery and more. On Girard, amid national brands like Banana Republic (7841 Girard Ave.), we love women’s apparel boutique Kerut (7944 Girard Ave.), a well-appointed spot run by a stylist. It’s not uncommon to find cupcakes and bubbly awaiting your arrival. Farther down Girard is La Maisonette (7631 Girard Ave.), an oasis of Parisian and French country gifts and textiles, as well as independent bookseller D.G. Wills (7461 Girard Ave.), for that rare first-edition. Back on Prospect Street, a slew of female-friendly stores welcome shoppers, including Victoria’s Secret (1111 Prospect St.), locally designed swimwear shop Sauvage (1025 Prospect St.) and Robina (1261 Prospect St.), with chic women’s apparel and accessories. There’s also Westime (1227 Prospect St.), with high-end designer watches for both men and women. The village is also home to many well-respected art galleries, whose collections range from landscape photography to Picasso canvases. A handful are clustered close together on Girard Avenue, making it easy to hop between them on nights when they all have coordinated opening receptions. Quint Gallery (7547 Girard Ave.) showcases edgy work by national artists like Ryan McGinness, while Scott White Contemporary Art (7655 Girard St.) represents emerging and mid-career artists as well as collections that include work by the likes of Willem deKooning and Alexander Calder. Joseph Bellows Gallery (7661 Girard Ave.) mounts regular exhibitions of stunning black-and-white photography. La Jolla Boulevard heads south out of the village toward Bird Rock, where worthwhile boutiques for women include Capricorn (5544-B La Jolla Blvd.) and Mimi & Red (5630 La Jolla Blvd.), with threads from cutting-edge designers. Break for coffee at Bird Rock Coffee Roast­ ers (5627 La Jolla Blvd.), whose sought-after beans are served at cafés throughout the city, or pick up a loaf of gluten-free bread at Julian Bakery (5621 La Jolla Blvd.). The neighborhood of La Jolla Shores, just a short drive up Torrey Pines Road, is also worth a visit. The wide, flat beach is perfect for swimming and sunning, while the main drag, Avenida de la Playa, is lined with eateries and rental shops with all the surf and kayak gear you need.

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(opposite, from left) IAN WHITE, edwin santiago, courtesy symphony at salk

arts & Science

The University of Cali­fornia, San Diego (9500 Gilman Drive) is home to one of the best theaters in the country: La Jolla Playhouse (see p. 61 for additional theater listings). The theater was founded in 1947 by actors Mel Ferrer, Dorothy McGuire and La Jolla native Gregory Peck. Each season is a mix of classic and daring productions; many have gone straight to Broadway. The Stuart Collection, a group of site-specific outdoor sculptures, adds to the artistic setting at UCSD (p. 71). A 24-foot giant teddy bear made of boulders and a 560-foot-long Snake Path are among the artworks placed throughout the 1,200-acre campus. Just north of campus is the Salk Institute for Biological Studies (10010 N. Torrey Pines Road), an architectural masterpiece designed by Louis Kahn. The scientific research complex was named in honor of Dr. Jonas Salk, who discovered a vaccine for polio and later lived in La Jolla. Tours of campus architecture are available to the public (858.453.4100 x1262). Southwest of campus sits Scripps Institu­ tion of Oceanography (8622 Kennel Way) and neighboring Birch Aquarium (see p. 68), both among the best ocean life learning centers in the world. In La Jolla village, the Museum of Con­ temp­orary Art San Diego (see p. 70) examines the boundaries of art created since 1950. Housed in the former home of Ellen Browning Scripps, the museum’s galleries boast an unparalleled ocean view, while Nancy Rubins’ stunning large-scale, nautical-inspired artwork adorns the museum’s west side. Definitely schedule a stop at the gift shop. The Athenaeum Music and Arts Library (1008 Wall St.) features year-round art exhibitions, plus jazz and chamber music concerts,

and a treasure trove of books and records. Many well-known names have called La Jolla home, including Theodor “Dr. Seuss” Geisel, actress Raquel Welch, motivational speaker Tony Robbins and author Anne Rice.

Recreation

La Jolla is paradise for outdoorsy types. The Cove (1100 Coast Blvd.) is a haven for swimmers and snorkelers; La Jolla Shores (8200 Camino del Oro) has easy access for scuba divers; and Windansea (6800 Neptune Place), immortalized in Tom Wolfe’s The Pump House Gang, is the ultimate surfing break. Children’s Pool, a small cove next to Ellen Browning Scripps Park, is a place to observe wildlife, particularly the harbor seals that have taken over the area. The seals’ encampment has caused an ongoing community debate: Some residents want to reclaim the cove for a children’s pool; others advocate for the seals. For a quick bite, try one of the many oceanview restaurants along Prospect Street or Coast Boulevard.

Torrey Pines

Torrey Pines is just north of La Jolla village. There, you’ll find the 2,000-acre Torrey Pines State Reserve, which offers eight miles of hiking trails winding through wind-sculpted pines and wildflowers. Located off Coast Highway 101 between La Jolla and Del Mar, the reserve was established to protect the nation’s rarest pine tree, the Pinus torreyana. The visitors center, a pueblo-style structure at the top of Park Road, is available to help with guided tours. One of the reserve’s trails leads directly to Torrey Pines State Beach, located on North Torrey Pines Road. The beach, which spans 4.5 miles from Del Mar to the cliffs at Torrey Pines Mesa, is a great place for swimming,

boating and fishing. You can also catch these amazing ocean views from up high, via a hang glider or paraglider. The Torrey Pines Glider Port and Flight Park (2800 Torrey Pines Scenic Drive) offers flights (tandem, too) for novices and extreme adventure seekers. Adjacent Blacks Beach is a two-mile sandy strip known for great surfing—and nude sunbathing (“not officially sanctioned”). Getting to Blacks isn’t easy. If you can, park near the Glider Port and hike to the bottom of the bluffs, paying close attention to warning signs about unstable cliffs. You can walk a mile from Torrey Pines State Beach, but access may be blocked by high tides. The Torrey Pines Golf Course (see p. 46) gives golfers the ultimate indulgence: two courses with stunning ocean views. In 2008, the landmark became one of the only public courses to host a U.S. Open; it’s also the site of the PGA Tour’s Farmers Insurance Open.

Golden Triangle

The area east of La Jolla village is known as the Golden Triangle, bordered by Interstate 5 on the west, Interstate 805 on the east and State Route 52 on the south. This triangular area includes upscale hotels, fine dining and great shopping. The shopping district revolves around Westfield University Towne Centre (see p. 71), which locals shorten to “UTC.” This outdoor mall, anchored by Macy’s and Nordstrom, features dozens of eateries and retail storefronts, including Anthropologie, Ann Taylor, Banana Republic, Apple, Tumi and Williams-Sonoma. From the village, go north on Torrey Pines Road and turn right on La Jolla Village Drive. For a map of these neighborhoods, see page 79. For a list of restaurants in this area, see page 61.

pack a picnic

great find There are so many beaches and grassy spots along San Diego’s coast that call for romantic picnics. Those looking to pack their baskets with something more than subs and chips will find plenty at Ariccia Italian Market. Newly open in La Jolla village, Ariccia has a menu full of gourmet to-go items, including porchetta sandwiches with balsamic onion marmalade, panzanella salad with heirloom tomatoes and fresh pastas. Add a homemade macaron for dessert, or enjoy one with tea or espresso on the sidewalk patio. There are also loads of items that make fine gifts, including olive oils, marmalades and tomato sauces that come in beautiful glass bottles. 7441-A Girard Ave., 858.551.7675 —Nina Garin

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exploring

Beach Cities

Left to right: heading out for a surf in Coronado; boards and beach cruisers at the Mission Beach Boardwalk; the lighthouse at Point Loma.

From Coronado to Pacific Beach: Welcome to Southern California’s most scenic oceanside neighborhoods.

Coronado

Coronado is an island of small-town quaintness amid San Diego’s big-city bustle. Well, it’s not really an island, though many locals call it that. Coro­nado is actually an ­isthmus, attached to the mainland at the southern end of Silver Strand State Beach. Though driving there via the iconic Coro­nado Bridge is always a thrill, it’s also great fun to travel by sea. The Coronado/San Diego Ferry leaves on the hour from downtown’s Broadway Pier between 9 am and 9 pm (619.234.4111), while San Diego Water Taxi offers on-call transportation around the bay from 9 am to 10 pm (619.235.8294). Upon arrival, you can browse the shops and restaurants at Coronado Ferry Landing Marketplace (1201 First St.), then rent a cruiser at Bikes and Beyond to explore Coronado’s flat, tree-lined side streets. Head south on the main drag of Orange Avenue to find an inviting entertainment district, with shops like Coronado Taste of Oils (954 Orange Ave.), where you can sample dozens of flavors of gourmet olive oils and vinegars, and Blue Jeans & Bikinis, which makes it easy to shop for those two items women notoriously hate having to try on (971 Orange Ave.). Pick up a new paperback at Bay Books (1029 Orange Ave.), and pop into The Attic (1011 Orange Ave.) for modern home décor pieces, antique accents and fun jewelry from local designers. You’ll find another cluster of shops selling designer clothing and eyewear, home décor and more coastal California merchandise inside the storybook Hotel del Coronado (1500 Orange Ave.), opened in 1888 and designated a National Historic Landmark in 1977. For more on the town’s history, stop by the Coronado Museum of History and Art (1100 Orange Ave.). Spreckels Park (Orange Ave. between Sixth and Seventh sts.) sits between these two retail zones and is an ideal place to take a break from all that strenuous shopping.

Shelter Island and Harbor Island

Shelter Island and Harbor Island aren’t really “islands” either; they’re connected to the mainland and were created more than 35 years ago with tons of sand dredged from the floor of the bay. Shelter Island, with its many bars, restaurants and nautically themed stores, is the departure point for various sportfishing charters. The area is also home to Humphrey’s Concerts by the Bay, a 1,400-seat outdoor theater that hosts jazz, blues and pop headliners in warmer months (see p. 66). Nearby Harbor Island has its own, smaller outdoor festival site, Spanish Landing Park, and several bayview restaurants. Both islands offer postcard vistas of the downtown skyline, plus flat paths for walks and bike rides.

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(opposite, left to right) ASHOK SINHA, IAN WHITE, edwin santiago

Ocean Beach and Point Loma

“O.B.” for short, this neighborhood is truly one of San Diego’s most unique. It’s an endless summer of love in O.B., an aggregation of aging hippies, surfers, ­bikers, artists, ­musicians and other free spirits. OBceans possess a strong sense of community and territorial pride best summed up by a oncepopular bumper sticker: “U.S. out of O.B.” The main drag, Newport Avenue, smells of incense and has many shops catering to the O.B. lifestyle, but also plenty of antiques dealers at places like Newport Avenue Antiques (4836 Newport Ave.). Music junkies will love the vintage vinyl at Cow Records (5029 ­Newport Ave.), while Galactic Comics (4981 Newport Ave.) is heaven for graphic-novel fans. The Corner Store (4873 Newport Ave.) is home to an array of shabby-chic furnishings, tea sets, vintage costume jewelry and an adorable Bichon Frise named Lucy. Just off Newport, Noon (4993 Niagara Ave.) has handmade letterpress cards and jewelry. Wind down the day with a leisurely stroll down the Ocean Beach Pier, which, at 1,971 feet, is one of the longest concrete piers in the ­country. A casual café is situated about halfway down the pier, making for a nice refueling point. Nearby Point Loma is home to a small but charming array of restaurants and cafés, as well as the Cabrillo National Monument, Fort ­Rosecrans ­National Cemetery and military installations. The Cabrillo National Monument (see p. 68) offers panoramic vistas stretching from San Diego to Mexico. There are also hiking trails, tidepools, a historic ­lighthouse, a bookstore and museum exhibits about conquistador Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo, the founder of San Diego.

Mission Beach and Pacific Beach

Two of San Diego’s most popular beaches, Mission Beach and Pacific Beach (“P.B.” to locals) form an ­unbroken band of sand that ­stretches for three miles, from the mouth of Mission Bay to the rocky points of La Jolla. Both are overflowing with restaurants, bars and boutiques. South Mission Beach is home to serious beach volleyball and bayside basketball games. Farther north, check out the star attraction at the Belmont Park amusement park: the Giant Dipper, a restored 1925 wooden roller coaster (see p. 68). Another landmark dating back to 1925 is Crystal Pier, at the foot of Garnet Avenue in P.B. This 400-foot-long wooden pier is gated and lined with rental cottages. However, the pier is open to the public during the day and is always popular with fishermen. The best way to experience this area is to walk along the boardwalk, where peoplewatching is not just encouraged, it’s a must. If the nonstop parade of skateboarders, inliners, bikers, ­joggers and walkers gets to be too much, walk across Mission Boulevard to the bayside boardwalk, where there’s much less of a scene. Garnet Avenue and Mission Boulevard form the backbone of this funky, retro retail district, which boasts dozens of small shops filled with surfing gear, swimsuits and casual wear. Begin the 10-block shopping stroll where the two main streets intersect, then head east. (Note: These are long blocks.) First order of business: find that perfect bikini. SunSplash (979 Garnet Ave.) can help, with stylish swimwear and casual beachwear in a wide array of sizes. For the rest of the outfit, try Chillers Showroom (4667 Cass

great find

St.), a spacious shop just off the main drag selling men’s and women’s clothing in a relaxed, lounge-like atmosphere. Farther up Garnet Avenue is Rusty Spokes Vintage Bicycles (1344 Garnet Ave.), which specializes in antique and classic cycles. Venturing north on Mission Boulevard from Garnet leads you to Urban Outfitters (4516 Mission Blvd.), various bike-rental shops and Surfindian (4658 Mission Blvd.), a gallery with art inspired by San Diego’s most sacred sport. Heading south brings you to Mission Beach, home to bikini emporium Pilar’s Beachwear (3790 Mission Blvd.), which has been suiting up San Diegans for more than 30 years.

Mission Bay Park

Mission Bay Park is a 4,000-acre gathering spot for locals and visitors to enjoy outdoor activities including running, biking, skating, kite-flying, sailing and boating. The park is made up of various coves, points and islands with excellent ­picnicking spots and fire pits. ­Several sportfishing charters depart daily from Mission Bay, and a variety of ­watercraft can be rented from nearby shops. If you’re feeling adventurous, try your hand at stand-up paddleboarding. The west side of the bay is also home to several resort hotels and SeaWorld (see p. 68), the internationally known park with some 12,000 aquatic animals. Don’t miss Shark Encounter, an underwater walkway offering a peek into the world of sand tiger, bonnethead and whitetip sharks, and the new Turtle Reef exhibition and ride. For a map of these neighborhoods, see page 77. For information about restaurants in this area, see page 61.

hecho en mexico

From the outside, Coronado’s Këo Jewelry looks like a traditional jewelry store, complete with pristine glass cases and plush red curtains. But every piece in this small but well-stocked boutique was made in Mexico—specifically, Guadalajara. So instead of classic hoop earrings, you’ll find them embellished with brightly colored beads. And silk red strings stand in where gold chains should be. The store also sells gold-plated bracelets dripping with whimsical charms inspired by Mexico’s indigenous people. Each piece in this relatively new spot is handmade, which means no two souvenirs are created exactly alike. 940 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.435.1890 —Nina Garin

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exploring

Uptown

Left to right: In the heart of artsy North Park; the historic Birch North Park Theatre; Hillcrest by night.

Hillcrest, Mission Hills, North Park: Neighborhoods full of culture, character and charm.

Uptown encompasses some of S.D.’s most diverse and eclectic neighborhoods. Hillcrest, which borders Balboa Park’s northwest corner, is one of the county’s most vibrant areas. Adjacent University Heights and Mission Hills are filled with Craftsman-style homes and quaint boutiques. Just east of Hillcrest, a renovated theater, galleries and cafés have helped North Park become San Diego’s newest arts district, while its residential neighbor to the south is the area’s best-kept secret for unique gift shopping.

Hillcrest

The hub of Hillcrest, at the intersection of University and Fifth avenues, is a buzzing, heavily trafficked scene throughout the day, with cars lined up in both directions and joggers, dogwalkers and coffee-sippers crowding the sidewalks. Fabulous shopping begins at University and First avenues and runs 12 blocks to Park Boulevard. Score vases, candles and home décor at Cathedral (435 University Ave.), retro urban footwear at Mint (525 University Ave.) and hip men’s fashions and home accents at House Boi (1435 ­University Ave.). Just off the main drag, you’ll find all manner of headgear at the Village Hat Shop (3821 Fourth Ave.). Leave time to peruse 5th Avenue Books (3838 Fifth Ave.) ­and ­Bluestocking Books (3817 Fifth Ave.), whose shelves are lined with out-of-print and rare tomes. By night, Hillcrest lights up with restaurants, bars and dance clubs and a great art-house movie theater, the Landmark (3965 Fifth Ave. #200).

UNIVERSITY HEIGHTS & MISSION HILLS

Northeast of Hillcrest on Park Boulevard lies quaint University Heights, home to ethnic eateries and good shopping at places like Frock You (4121 Park Blvd.), a clothing store whose helpful staff knows its stuff when it comes to vintage fashion. University Heights also has an astonishing number of cafés for such a small neighborhood, each catering to a different clientele. We love the back patio at quiet, well-designed Monica’s at the Park (1735 Adams Ave.) for a cappuccino break. The streets of gorgeous Mission Hills, northwest of Hillcrest, are lined with stately homes, quaint cafés and boutiques. Cecilia’s (928 Fort Stockton Drive #115) offers the latest fashions for women, including lots of stuff by local designers, while Maison en Provence (820 Fort Stockton Drive) carries French country home accessories. Presidio Park, at the western edge of ­this neighborhood, is historically significant as the site

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of the first European settlement in California (619.692.4918). Scenic trails lead to the neighboring Junípero Serra Museum. The museum, built in 1929, is a ­replica of the mission erected there in 1769.

Fresh produce at the Hillcrest farmer’s market, held every Sunday.

North Park

Centered at University Avenue and 30th Street, North Park is San Diego’s newest arts district, thanks in part to the restoration of the historic 1928 Birch North Park Theatre (2891 University Ave.). Gallery-hopping events are held select Saturday nights from 6 to 9 pm; check northparkarts.org for details. The area is also home to dozens of independent clothing and décor boutiques. We love the organic cotton baby clothes and stylish art books sold at Pigment (3827 30th St.), while Aloha Sunday (3118 University Ave.) has surf-inspired clothing and accessories for men. After dark, North Park comes alive with dozens of bars, clubs and restaurants.

(opposite, center) amy k. fellows, (others) bjarne g. jensen, (this page, top) rich cook

SOUTH PARK

About a mile south of University on 30th Street lies the quiet neighborhood known as South Park. Though largely residential, South Park does have a few good neighborhood eateries and bars, and it’s a great place to shop for gifts while supporting the local independent merchants. Favorite retailers in this area include The Grove bookstore (3010 Juniper St.), which also has a crafting nook inside; modern home furnishings and design emporium Progress (2225 30th St.) and Make Good (2207 Fern St.), with clothing, home accents, jewelry and other items from local crafters. For a map of these neighborhoods, see page 78. For a list of restaurants in this area, see page 61.

great find

tea time

When San Diegans look for tea that doesn’t come in a pre-packaged bag, they head to South Park’s Halcyon Tea. This sparse but relaxing spot carries loose-leaf teas from around the world: Oolongs from Taiwan, white teas from China, black teas from India. The teas are packed in rows and rows of airtight metal tins and served by a knowledgeable staffer, happy to help shoppers find the right flavor. Along with teas, the store also stocks single-serve teacups, glass teapots, even kits to make Matcha. And those new to tea are welcome to stop by Halcyon’s free tasting events every Friday from 5 to 7 pm. 3009 Beech St., South Park, 619.450.4224 —Nina Garin

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Photo by Luci Dumas Fine Photography

EVENT CALENDAR ArtOberfest Walkabout

www.SouthParkScene.com Enjoy an evening of festivities throughout South Park, highlighting the arts, crafts and designs by local talents in shops and restaurants. Plus music, free trolley, Beech St. BBQ, movie under the stars.

PROGRESS products are sourced from small studios who are passionate about quality modern design at an affordable price.

The charm of Junc is its gestalt. A unique selection of accessories, dresses, art, modern and classic clothing and recycled furniture.

Progress

Junc Life and Style

2225 30 Street 619.280.5501 progresssouthpark.com th

2209 Fern Street 619.283.2611 junclifeandstyle.com

Saturday, October 6, 2012 6-10pm

Twinkle Twinkle Mix & Mingle

www.SouthParkScene.com Twinkling lights in trees, carolers and local crafts, tasty holiday menus and snacks, plus the San Diego Mandolin Orchestra...all in South Park for the Holiday Walkabout, kicking off the holiday season in style. Free trolley, specials and sales, too.

Saturday, December 1, 2012 6-10pm

SouthParkSCENE.COM FOR MAPS, DIRECTORY, EVENT INFOrmatiOn AND MORE!

SouthPark_FA12_10up_FINAL.indd 032-35_Uptown_WSD.indd 34 1

Tacos and sushi...the only place in town that serves both! Enjoy half-off deals “Taco Tuesday” or “Sushi Sunday” and Happy Hour Mon-Fri, 4-7 pm.

A neighborhood wine pub featuring small production wine, craft beer on tap and a light food menu.

Juan Chou

The Rose Wine Pub on 30th

3023 Juniper Street 619.487.0455 juanchous.com

2219 30th Street 619.280.1815 therosewinepub.com

8/9/12 4:11 PM


Photo by Unleashed Photography

Bringing the authenticity of Parisian flavors, ambiance and elegance to the heart of San Diego.

A place where you can find quality dog and cat food, treats, toys, self serve wash and South Bark’s world famous Blueberry Facial®.

Take a “palatable journey” across our new menu that has been inspired by the world and created by denizens of global cuisine.

Café Madeleine

South Bark Dog Wash

Vagabond Kitchen

2248 30 Street 619.544.1735

2037 30 Street 619.232.7387 southbark.com

2310 30th Street South 619.255.1035 vagabondkitchen.com

Alchemy Restaurant & Lounge serves cultural fare and craft cocktails in a casual and hip setting.

Enjoy burgers, comfort food, regional wines, local beers in a friendly, open-air environment. Families, couples, dogs—it’s all good.

A unique gallery of fine art and oddities featuring a full custom tattoo studio with world renowned artists.

Alchemy

Station Tavern

th

1503 30th Street 619.255.0616 alchemysandiego.com

032-35_Uptown_WSD.indd 35

th

2204 Fern Street 619.255.0657 stationtavern.com

Left Hand Black

1947 Fern Street #5 619.546.6555 lhblk.com

8/6/12 4:27 4:12 PM


exploring

North Coast

Left to right: the Self-Realization Fellowship in Encinitas; the Del Mar Fairgrounds; the surfer sculpture locals call the Cardiff “kook.”

Del Mar, Solana Beach, Encinitas, Carlsbad ... These cities exemplify the good life.

Del Mar

Del Mar’s celebrity status began more than 70 years ago, when the oceanside paradise became home of the Del Mar Racetrack (2260 Jimmy Durante Blvd.). Actors Bing Crosby and Pat O’Brien helped establish the track—and its track record for hosting the Hollywood elite at the Thoroughbred Club. Ava Gardner, W.C. Fields, Lucille Ball, Desi Arnaz, Jimmy Durante and Mickey Rooney were among the regulars in the late 1930s, ‘40s and ‘50s. Today, the racing season runs from mid-July to early September, but exciting events are held at the Del Mar Fairgrounds year-round. Jimmy Durante Boulevard—named for the famous entertainer who lived in Del Mar— paves the way from the track to the heart of the village. The intersection of Camino del Mar and 15th Street forms Del Mar’s center. The three-story Del Mar Plaza (see p. 71) has scenic fountains and sweeping ocean views, plus upscale shops like clothing boutiques Gerhard and Peaches en Regalia; Loghman Jewelers, with Italian jewelry and watches; and chains like Banana Republic and Sunglass Hut. There’s more retail along Del Mar’s main street, Camino del Mar, and the area can easily be covered on foot. The shopping district is lined with shops including Carolyn’s (1310 Camino del Mar), with designer resale, plus several casual cafés and eateries. More great shopping is a short drive away. East of the Fair­grounds, off I-5 on Via de la Valle, is Flower Hill Promenade (2720 Via de la Valle), where shops include women’s boutique TRE, men’s clothier Patrick James and Dallman Chocolate Boutique. At the end of the day, walk to Seagrove Park (Coast Blvd. at 15th St.) to enjoy a brilliant sunset. From the hush of the surf you can almost hear the echo of Bing Crosby, singing the jingle he wrote in honor of the track: Where the turf meets the surf, down at old Del Mar...

Solana Beach

Solana Beach is home to some of the most chic stores in San Diego County. The Cedros Design District begins at South Cedros Avenue and Lomas Santa Fe Drive, easily accessible by The Coaster, the train that runs from downtown San Diego to Oceanside. More than 50 shops spanning a quarter-mile feature fashion, home furnishings and antiques. Most of the boutiques on South Cedros are housed in renovated Quonset huts (iron warehouses shaped like a half-cylinder), giving this neighborhood an artistic feel. Fuel up for your walking tour of the neighborhood at Claire’s (246 N. Cedros Ave.), across from

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the train station. It’s the kind of eco-conscious place that provides preferred parking for electric and hybrid cars. This stretch of Cedros is also home to Susan Street Fine Art, a contemporary art gallery (200 N. Cedros Ave.), and Tobi Blatt (152 N. Cedros Ave.), with women’s clothing from labels like True Religion. Cross Lomas Santa Fe to explore South Cedros: We love Cedros Soles (143 S. Cedros Ave.) for the latest footwear; HIS (111 S. Cedros Ave. #200), a store geared towards the styleminded guy; and Bixby & Ball (214 S. Cedros Ave.), with linens, home décor items and other coastal-lifestyle accessories. Linger long enough to smell the sweet aromas springing from Mistral (146 S. Cedros Ave.), a small bungalow with soaps and lotions imported from France. You’ll also find hip home décor and art books at Solo (309 S. Cedros Ave.) and everything for the modern garden at color-splashed Chicweed (240 S. Cedros Ave.). Nestled among the retail shops is one of the county’s top live music venues: The Belly Up Tavern (see p. 73), a Solana Beach landmark for more than 35 years.

(opposite, left) IAN WHITE, (OTHERS) REBECCA Morquecho

Encinitas and cardiff-by-the-sea

Heading north on 101 from Solana Beach, you’ll pass through the small surf community of Cardiff-by-the-Sea. Be sure to get a picture with the Cardiff “kook,” the sculpture of a surfer that locals have fondly ridiculed for years. Officially named The Magic Carpet Ride, the statue is often dressed up in outrageous outfits (military fatigues, a toga, a bikini) by anonymous midnight marauders. As you continue north approaching downtown Encinitas, you’ll see a unique silhouette among the palm trees. The Self-Realization

Fellowship Retreat and Hermitage (215 K St.), with its lotus blossom–shaped towers, dates back to 1937. A portion of the grounds is open free to the public. A stroll through the lush, cliffside gardens offers views of surfers at nearby Swami’s Beach (1298 S. Coast Hwy. 101), a popular break for longboarders. Up the road, The Lumberyard’s two-dozen or so shops include stylish clothier Mog & Rue, modern home-and-garden store Grounded and Chuao Chocolatier, whose gourmet sweets are made from the finest Venezuelan chocolate. Don’t miss deepFling, with silver jewelry from Scandinavian designers. The Lumberyard also has an array of wine bars, eateries and cafés, many with outdoor seating (937 S. Coast Hwy. 101). In the center of downtown, the historic La Paloma Theatre (471 S. Coast Hwy. 101) has anchored the district since the 1920s and still hosts concerts and screenings of independent films. Boutiques and restaurants also line the strip. Boasting a shiny new Whole Foods, Pacific Station is also home to Icons boutique, with denim, tees, boho-chic blouses and more (687 S. Coast Hwy. 101). North Coast Highway 101 runs through sleepy Leucadia, where it’s easy to speed right by gems like Lou’s Records (434 N. Coast Hwy. 101), with its selection of hip LPs and CDs, and Ducky Waddles ­Emporium (414 N. Coast Hwy. 101), with its ­excellent collection of books on all things arty or bawdy. A great cluster of shops is found at The Gold Coast (466 N. Coast Hwy. 101), whose tenants include stylish children’s boutique Daisy B. A short drive inland leads to San Diego Botanic Garden, a 35-acre treasure showcasing more than 3,000 rare and exotic plants (see p. 68).

Carlsbad

Downtown Carlsbad is a picturesque seaside village with tree-lined roads, restaurants and boutique shopping. Along Carlsbad Village Drive, the main drag, you’ll find two local landmarks: Ocean House (300 Carlsbad Village Drive), a restaurant and nighttime hot spot that boasts beautiful Victorian architecture, and nearby Frazier’s Well (2802 Carlsbad Blvd.), where sea captain John Frazier discovered mineral water in 1882. Next to Ocean House is Carlsbad Village Faire, a shopping center home to several casual eateries and shops. Retail on nearby State Street includes antique stores and shops like Fairen Del (2940 State St.), with an assortment of fine leather goods, shoes, handbags and jewelry. A short drive east of the freeway on Palomar Airport Road leads to great outlet shopping at Carlsbad ­Premium Outlets (see p. 71), with brand-name stores like BCBG, Kenneth Cole and Michael Kors. Continuing on Palomar Airport Road from the outlets will lead you to another cluster of attractions. LegoLand (see p. 68) is 128 acres of kid-­friendly entertainment that includes a new Sea Life Aquarium. Nearby, the Museum of Making Music (see p. 70) is filled with musical memorabilia. La Costa Resort and Spa (2100 Costa del Mar Road) is home to the Chopra Center for Well Being, with spa therapies and wellness ­programs created by holistic specialist Deepak Chopra. Two miles south of La Costa is The Forum (see p. 71), an outdoor, Spanish-style mall whose shops include Tilly’s surf shop, Anthropologie and organic skincare shop NuboNau. For a map of these neighborhoods, see page 79. For information about restaurants in this area, see page 61.

FIND YOUR BLISS

great find All it takes to get a true sense of San Diego’s beach community is a trip to Bliss 101. Almost everything in the eclectic Encinitas gift shop was made by locals, from the charming picture frames made out of reclaimed wood to the sunny paintings of popular landmarks. There are jellyfish pillows, ocean-hued candles and dresses that are perfect for beach gatherings. Bliss has a sister store in Oahu’s North Shore, so there’s a big emphasis on surf culture, which explains why you can buy photographs taken by pro surfer Rob Machado. You’ll also find handcrafted furniture, nontraditional china sets and one-of-a-kind gifts for kids. 687 S. Coast Highway 101, Encinitas, 760.487.1900 —Nina Garin

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exploring

Old Town

Left to right: The Cosmopolitan Hotel; colorful souvenirs; Colorado House, home of the Wells Fargo Museum. Opposite page: Palms shadowed on adobe.

San Diego celebrates Mexican and Spanish Colonial history.

On the hilltop overlooking Old Town is the site where, in 1769, Padre Junípero Serra established Mission Basilica San Diego de Alcalá. In 1774, Serra’s mission was moved to a location six miles east, but a colony of residents remained and the area became known as California’s first permanent European settlement. Today, the Junípero Serra Museum (2727 Presidio Drive) stands on that same hill, overlooking the festive neighborhood now called Old Town San Diego.

Living History and culture

Old Town State Historic Park, a pedestrian-only area spanning six blocks, is home to more than a dozen of San Diego’s earliest buildings—some original, others reproductions—including a general store, Wells Fargo Bank, adobe homes and the first office of the San Diego Union, the city’s oldest newspaper. Stop in at Rust General Store for some old-timey candies before checking out Casa de Estudillo, the 1825 home of Spanish aristocrat Don Jose Antonio de Estudillo. Other historical structures include the recently renovated Cosmopolitan Hotel and Seeley Stable Museum, a reconstruction of the 1850s-era stagecoach stop that now houses a collection of vintage carriages. Park aides lead tours of the sites, leaving from the Old Town Visitor’s Center in the Robinson Rose building, located on the plaza. No reservations are necessary and tours are free (619.220.5422). Adjacent to the plaza, Fiesta de Reyes (2754 Calhoun St.) is filled with restaurants and shops that celebrate Mexican and American history; don’t miss the Urban Seed, which not only has a huge selection of heritage vegetable seeds but also French antiques and elegant home décor pieces. Costumed storytellers and artisans throughout the plaza add to the ambiance. Up the hill at Harney and Juan streets you’ll find the Mormon Battalion, which tells the story of the church military unit that came west to help with the Mexican-American War, and Heritage Park, the site of seven restored Victorian buildings that were moved to this site from downtown San Diego after World War II to escape demolition due to modern development. The park also houses Southern California’s first synagogue, Temple Beth Israel, built in 1889. More historical sites line San Diego Avenue, which leads out of Old Town State Park to the south. Construction on the gorgeous Church of the Immaculate Conception, still an active Catholic church, began in 1868 in an effort to replace the existing adobe church with

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a brick structure, but was not completed for more than 50 years. Farther up san Diego avenue, behind an adobe wall, is El Campo Santo, the city’s first cemetery, established in 1850, and the San Diego Sheriff’s Museum and Educational Center (2384 San Diego Ave.), built 100 feet from where san Diego’s original cobblestone jail once stood. it features exhibits displaying weapons and equipment used by the county’s 28 sheriffs over the past 150 years. The Casa del Rey Moro Museum (2471 Congress St.) is a small house transformed into a scholarly treasure of african world history, with a focus on the afro-spanish, afro-Mexican and african-american heritage in old Town and California. hungry for more? Take in a show at the Old Town Theatre (4040 Twiggs St.), operated by the critically acclaimed Cygnet Theatre Company.

shopping

old Town’s many shops offer everything from authentic goods to touristy tchotchkes. You can browse the large collection of Mexican folk art at Miranda’s Courtyard (2548 Congress St.), or shop for women and children’s fashions made from eco-friendly cotton and alpaca at Wandering Sage (2415 San Diego Ave.). next door, Gourmet Café has an array of chocolate truffles and other sweets. on the back side of the park, Taylor street is home to Bazaar del Mundo (4133 Taylor St.), a two-story emporium of international folk arts, fashion, jewelry and home décor. Wind down your shopping day with a glass of pinot at Wine Cabana (2539 Congress St.). For a map of this neighborhood, see page 78. For a list of restaurants in this area, see page 61.

ashok sinha

CURTAINS UP

great find Billed as a cross between Fully Committed and The Producers, Mistakes Were Made is a witty satire from writer Craig Wright (Six Feet Under) that gets its West Coast premiere at Cygnet Theatre’s intimate Old Town venue. The story centers on Felix Artifex, a beleaguered Broadway producer charged with turning a playwright’s pretentious flights of fancy into something that people might actually pay to see. Star Phil Johnson is a local favorite with big-city credentials, including Les Miserables on Broadway. Mistakes Were Made runs Sept. 29-Oct. 21 (in previews from Sept. 20). Nightly shows Weds.-Sun., plus Sat.-Sun. matinees. Old Town Theatre, 4040 Twiggs St., 619.337.1525

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exploring

Balboa Park

Left to right: the graceful architecture of the House of Hospitality; a bonobo at play at the San Diego Zoo (located inside the park); the Old Globe Theatre.

Art, music and performance bloom year-round.

Spanning 1,200 acres of lush, beautifully landscaped terrain, Balboa Park is known as San Diego’s “crown jewel,” offering a variety of outdoor recreation options for kids and adults alike, not to mention a verdant respite from the bustle of the city’s increasingly metropolitan pace. The park is also the seat of San Diego’s thriving cultural scene. Nestled between palm trees and botanical gardens, ornate Spanish Colonial buildings house many of the park’s museums and art exhibits. Several of the buildings were constructed as part of two world fairs: the Panama-California Exposition in 1915–16, and the California-Pacific International Exposition in 1935–36. ­ It can take more than one day to see and enjoy each museum, garden and attraction. The Visitors Center (619.239.0512) in the House of Hospitality offers a Passport to Balboa Park, allowing admission to any of the park’s museums for one week. (Keep in mind some museums are closed on Mondays.) Deluxe ­packages include passes to the neighboring San Diego Zoo. Or go high-tech and let the park’s iPhone app be your guide.

ARTS & CULTURE

Performing arts abound in the park. The Old Globe Theatre routinely presents top talent in world-renowned productions; fall features include Allegiance (Sept. 7-Oct. 21), a new musical about the Japanese internment during World War II starring Star Trek’s George Takei, and Good People (Sept. 29-Oct. 28), the Tony-nominated play from Pulitzer Prize winner David Lindsay-Abaire (Rabbit Hole). See p. 61 for more theater listings. Elsewhere in the park, the Marie Hitchcock Puppet Theatre presents whimsical puppet shows, while Spreckels Organ Pavilion houses the world’s largest ­outdoor pipe organ, with some 4,500 pipes. Free concerts are offered Sundays at 2 pm. The park is also home to groups celebrating culture. The House of Pacific Relations International Cottages promotes the heritage of countries around the world by hosting open houses and weekend festivals. Neighboring WorldBeat Center uses art, music, dance and education to celebrate African and indigenous cultures, while Centro Cultural de la Raza is a multidisciplinary center dedicated to the preservation of Chicano/Latino culture. The park has a vast array of institutions celebrating the visual arts, past and present. Known for its presentation of eclectic traveling exhibitions, the San Diego Museum of Art also has a trove of Renaissance and Baroque works, plus a large Asian collection; an exhibition of American post-Impressionist Charles Reiffel’s work opens Nov. 8. The world-class

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Museum of Photographic Arts showcases compelling photography and also presents films in its state-of-the-art theater. The Mingei International Museum is dedicated to folk art, craft and design from around the world, while the Timken Museum of Art is home to the Putnam Foundation’s renowned collection of European and Byzantine art, including Russian religious paintings. The San Diego Art Institute’s Museum of the Living Artist presents exhibitions by contemporary local artists every four to six weeks, and the historic Spanish Village Art Center is a collection of 37 studios representing more than 200 artists working in media ranging from sculpture to blown glass; the charming courtyard setting is meant to evoke an Old World town square.

(OPPOSITE) BJARNE G. JENSEN EXCEPT BONOBO COURTESY SAN DIEGO ZOO; (THIS PAGE, TOP) EDWIN SANTIAGO

SCIENCE & HISTORY

Balboa Park’s many non-visual-art museums are a huge draw for children, but most distinguish themselves by crafting exhibitions that also appeal to adult sensibilities. The San Diego Air and Space Museum salutes aviation with 68 original, reproduction and model airplanes and spacecraft. The Reuben H. Fleet Science Center has interactive science exhibitions and an IMAX Dome theater. The country’s largest multisports museum, the San Diego Hall of Champions has interactive displays inviting sports fans to test their athletic and broadcasting skills. From antiques to hot rods, the San Diego Automotive Museum’s collection illustrates the evolution of the automobile. The San Diego Natural History Museum’s life-sized T-Rex skeleton, fossil exhibits and 3-D theater let visitors explore the natural world. Dedicated to the study of anthropology,

The iconic Museum of Man

GREAT FIND

AMERICAN IDOLS

Three museums, including Balboa Park’s Timken and San Diego Museum of Art, collaboratively present Behold, America!, a showcase of American art from their respective permanent collections. Featuring work by Thomas Eakins, Mary Cassatt, Andy Warhol, Sol LeWitt and more, the exhibition spans from the colonial period to the present, inviting reflection on the evolution of our national identity. Portraits by Cindy Sherman are a highlight of SDMA’s portion of the show, while the Timken will explore the minimalist work of Agnes Martin, among others (both open Nov. 10). Georgia O’Keeffe landscapes and Robert Irwin installations will be on view at La Jolla’s Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego starting Sept. 16.

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the San Diego Museum of Man explores cultures of the world, especially the Americas. The largest of its kind, the Model Railroad Museum boasts scale models and interactive features for children. The Museum of San Diego History features traveling shows and exhibitions culled from the Historical Society’s vast collection. At the Veteran’s Museum & Memorial Center visitors will find military uniforms from World War I, Vietnam and the Korean War, as well as maritime paintings by local artists and other displays. The Marston House (see p. 69), an Arts & Crafts mansion designed in 1905 by noted architect Irving Gill, is a must for history and architecture buffs; the grounds also feature a carriage house and gardens.

ATTrACTionS & gArDenS

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The park’s major attraction is, of course, the San Diego Zoo (see p. 68), with some 4,000 rare and endangered species. Among the animal residents you’ll find the much-beloved meerkats, Asian and African elephants, monkeys, birds and more. Be sure to stop by Panda Canyon to say hello to the newest 2:12 PM member of the clan, Yun Zi. After visiting the zoo, try your hand at the brass ring game from your perch atop a hand-carved pony on the Balboa Park Carousel. Both kids and grown-ups are welcome on the Balboa Park Miniature Railroad, which takes a three-minute, half-mile trip through four acres of the park. The park also features several gardens, a legacy left by its founding “mother,” botanist Kate Sessions. Complete with ornate fountains and colorful tiling, the Spanishstyle Alcazar Garden, which abuts the Art Institute and Mingei Museum, blooms with 7,000 brilliantly colored annuals. The Japanese Friendship Garden features a Zen meditation garden and bonsai exhibit, while the sunken Zoro Garden has an interesting history: It was designed as a nudist colony during the 1935 California-Pacific International Exposition but is now a habitat for monarch, sulfur and swallowtail butterflies. Also built for the Expo, the Old Cactus Garden has succulents and other exotic plants. With some 2,100 orchids, ferns, poinsettias and other plants, the Botanical Building is among the world’s largest lath structures; along with its gorgeous Lily Pond, it’s one of the park’s most photographed sites.

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reCreATion

From hiking and jogging to tennis and bocce ball, you’ll find it in the park. The Balboa Park Activity Center has facilities for badminton, table tennis, volleyball and more, while the Balboa Park Municipal Golf Course offers striking views of downtown and Coronado. At Texas and Upas streets, on the park’s northeast end, the Morley Field Sports Complex is a haven for disc golf fans and other sports nuts, boasting a pool, velodrome, archery range and bocce court. Check in here for information on the many hike and bike trails through Florida Canyon, a popular workout spot for joggers. The nearby Balboa Tennis Club is open to the public, with 25 courts and a full-service pro shop, plus lessons and clinics. The dapper, white-clad members of the San Diego Lawn Bowling Club, which has been around for more than 75 years, play seven days a week near the corner of Sixth Ave. and Laurel St. Visitors are welcome to join the fun and receive a free lesson. There are also a few leash-free dog parks here, including one at Balboa Drive and El Prado, south of the Cabrillo Bridge, and another at Morley Field, northwest of the tennis courts.

SPECIAL EXHIBITION

NOW OPEN!

Dining

Several casual snack bars and coffee carts can be found throughout the park and inside certain museums. For a sit-down experience, try The Prado, whose lively, colorful interior and charming garden patio—not to mention hearty American cuisine, refreshing salads and exotic South American cocktails—have made it a longtime local favorite. The Tea Pavilion at the Japanese Friendship Garden serves tea, noodles and sushi in a casual setting, while the Sculpture Court Café at the San Diego Museum of Art is a good bet for salads and sandwiches. For the at-home gourmand, the Balboa Park Food & Wine School has classes in everything from fondue-making to sushi rolling taught by celebrated local chefs, plus wine education. Be sure to make reservations in advance, though, as classes tend to fill up quickly. A map of Balboa Park is on page 78. Museums and attractions are listed in the where guide.

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exploring

Baja

Left to right: Rosarito’s Castle restaurant; a chef preparing the popular Sunday brunch at La Fonda Hotel, near Ensenada; a rustic wagon at Pueblo Plaza shopping arcade in Rosarito.

Mexico is 20 minutes and a world away from downtown San Diego.

The San Ysidro border cros­sing is the world’s busiest, a gateway to the 1,000-mile-long Baja Cali­fornia peninsula, where rugged desert meets spectacular coastline and lively cities offer great shopping, excellent dining and endless entertainment. The closest points of interest are within easy reach and make for a memorable day trip.

Tijuana

The world’s most popular border city is a cultural, nightlife and shopping hub. While the famed Avenida Revolución was once at the center of the action—and is still home to restaurants like Caesar’s (Av. Revolución between Fourth and Fifth sts.), where the eponymous salad was invented in the 1920s—today most of the nightlife is concentrated along Calle Sexta, or Sixth Street. Perhaps the most striking attraction in the area is the Centro Cultural Tijuana, known as CECUT (Paseo de los Héroes and Mina, 011.52.664.687.9650), an impressive spherical building that rises over the city’s Zona Río district. Inside, art exhibits, performances, planetarium shows and giant-screen Omnimax movies offer visitors plenty to see. Family theme-park fun can be found at Mundo Divertido La Mesa (Paseo de los Heroes and Jose Maria Velasco #2578, 011.52.664.701.7133), which boasts a roller coaster, miniature golf, go-karts, batting cages and arcade games.

Rosarito and Puerto Nuevo

Thirty minutes south of Tijuana, Rosarito welcomes visitors with its relaxed atmosphere and ocean views. This city offers surfing and horseback riding by day and boisterous nightlife at places such as Papas & Beer (Eucalipto 400 and Coronado, 011.52.661.612.0444). The city is also home to the legendary Rosarito Beach Hotel (Blvd. Benito Juarez #31, 800.343.8582), which has hosted Hollywood celebrities for decades. It offers luxury spas, pier fishing, fine dining, swimming pools, boutiques and more. Just south of Rosarito is the small town of Puerto Nuevo, famed for its delectably prepared lobster, and Baja Studios, a movie theme park and studio where parts of Titanic and Pearl Harbor were filmed.

Ensenada

Overlooking the Pacific, the toll road south from Tijuana ushers travelers into the vibrant port of Ensenada, where visitors can experience scenic wine country and plenty of shopping. On Boulevard Costero, Ensenada’s waterfront thoroughfare, take in Mercado de Mariscos, an indoor/

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outdoor fish market. The stunning grounds of the Riviera del Pacifico (Blvd. Costero and Av. Riviera) serve as Ensenada’s civic and cultural center. Once a 1930s gambling palace, its whitewashed hacienda-style building features a natural history museum and grand ballrooms. Don’t miss the famous Hussong’s Cantina (Av. Ruiz #113, 011.52.646.178.3210), the oldest bar in the Californias and the purported birthplace of the margarita. The cantina’s popularity hasn’t faded in more than 110 years of operation. About 20 miles south of Ensenada lies La Bufadora, a spectacular ocean blowhole that channels the pounding surf into sprays that reach more than 70 feet. The small main street houses arts and crafts vendors and seafood restaurants, and the coastline is ideal for kayaking, scuba diving and snorkeling.

Nuts and sundries at a sidewalk market Below: the modern Centro ­Cultural in Tijuana.

Mark hiss (except opposite, middle by will carless; this page, bottom by victor magdaleno)

Fast Facts

U.S. citizens traveling as far as Ensenada for less than 72 hours need not have a tourist card but must show proof of citizenship (passport or birth certificate with photo ID) when crossing back into the U.S. Non-U.S. citizens must have a passport. Mexican auto insurance is recommended but not required, and can be purchased from dealers along the border. Uninsured drivers involved in an accident can be jailed until financial responsibility is assigned. U.S. dollars are widely accepted, as are credit cards, though often with a steep surcharge. Always ask first. Most ATMs accept U.S.-issued cards in the Plus or Cirrus systems. Tourists can bring back up to $800 in merchandise dutyfree. Those 21 and older can bring back one liter of alcohol duty-free. Dial 078 for bilingual tourist help; dial 040 for local information.

get there

tours and transportation

Trolleys headed for the border depart downtown’s Santa Fe Depot regularly. Visitors can walk across the border, then take a bus or catch a cab into Tijuana. Drivers can take I-5 or I-805 south to the San Ysidro border crossing. Low-cost parking lots are available in San Ysidro for those that don’t want to drive in. Allow plenty of time to cross back into the U.S., as the border wait for vehicles can run up to two hours or more. Day trips are offered by companies including Andiamo Tours (619.632.4571), Universo Bajacaliforniano (011.52.646.178.2232) and Turista Libre (turistalibre.com), whose alternative daytrips offer a unique look into the quirkier side of Tijuana.

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Torrey Pines Golf Course

A GUIDE TO

tHe greens FROM THE DESERT TO THE SEA, SAN DIEGO’S GOT GAME

la costa resort and sPa Measure your game against golfing’s elite at La Costa, the site of numerous PGA Tour events. Amid 400 acres in the coastal foothills of Carlsbad, La Costa features two 18-hole courses, including the recently redone championship North Course; a driving range; equipment rental and Southern California’s only TOUR Golf Academy. The

last four holes of the South Course are known as “the longest mile in golf.” 2100 Costa del Mar Road, Carlsbad, 800.854.5000

torrey Pines golf course Site of the 2008 U.S. Open and the annual PGA tournament known as the Farmers Insurance Open, this is one of the best-known courses in America. (Tiger Woods and local

Phil Mickelson are among the greats who have played here.) The two courses have stunning ocean views from the bluffs above the Pacific, wide fairways and sloping greens. The South Course (par 72; 7,628 yards) is a bit more difficult than the North (par 72; 6,874 yards), with the seventh and 12th holes being two of the town’s toughest. 11480 N. Torrey Pines Road, La Jolla, 858.552.1662

ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/SPC-HQ

Talk about sand traps and water hazards. San Diego has two of the biggest: the Anza-Borrego desert and the Pacific Ocean. Coastal cliffs and desert mountains set the scene for some of the best golf in the world. More than 90 courses are open to the public, and players of all levels can take a swing at links near the city center or at par-3 courses for that quick fix. One day on the greens will be all it takes to understand why San Diego County is truly a golfer’s paradise.

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steele canyon golf club A perfect combination of scenery and challenge, this 27-hole course in the East County community of Jamul is the only one in San Diego designed by Gary Player. It features three distinct courses, each with four sets of tees that invite all levels of play. Canyon Nine provides breathtaking elevations; Ranch Nine winds through fields surrounding a working ranch; and Meadow Nine stretches along the pastoral valley floor where wildlife often plays through. Steele Canyon was named one of the top 10 courses in California by Golf for Women and received Golf Digest’s four-star award. 3199 Stonefield Drive, Jamul, 619.441.6900

maderas golf club This Johnny Miller- and Robert Muir Graves– designed course is set in secluded canyons and ravines 20 minutes northeast of downtown, complemented by oaks, sycamores, creeks, lakes, waterfalls and 40 acres of native wildflowers. This 18-hole course plays to 7,115 yards from the back tees—and with five sets of tees, it can be enjoyed by golfers of all skill levels. The renowned maintenance practices of Troon Golf assure championship conditions every day of the week. 17750 Old Coach Road, Poway, 866.233.0496

riverwalk golf club Location, location, location. This is San Diego’s most convenient and centrally located golf club. The 27-hole course was redesigned by Ted Robinson Sr. and Jr., and features nearly 100 bunkers, splashy waterfalls and well-protected bentgrass greens. A night-lit driving range is open every day; call for times. 1150 Fashion Valley Road, San Diego, 619.296.4653

Park Hyatt aviara The only Arnold Palmer signature golf course in San Diego, Aviara winds through rolling valleys with ocean views. Named by Golf Digest and Golf magazines as one of the best

resort courses in America, and by Condé Nast Traveler as one of the best in the world, the resort also welcomes non-guests to play. 7447 Batiquitos Drive, Carlsbad, 760.603.6900

carmel mountain rancH country club Although not particularly scenic (some holes front Rancho Bernardo housing developments), it’s one of the county’s more demanding courses. Almost every hole is either uphill or down, with ravines, natural boulder formations and streams adding to the test. 14050 Carmel Ridge Road, San Diego, 858.487.9224

sail Ho golf club Built by A.G. Spalding, Sail Ho is one of the oldest courses in the country, dating back to the ‘20s. Originally known as the San Diego Country Club, the 1,023-yard, ninehole course recently received a $3.3 million face-lift. 2960 Truxton Road, Liberty Station, Point Loma, 619.222.4653

barona creek golf club This par-72 course over 7,088 yards has received numerous accolades since its opening in 2001. Created by Gary Roger Baird Design, the course includes more than 100 bunkers and a series of lakes and ponds. It was also the host site for the 2007 Nationwide Tour Championships. 1932 Wildcat Canyon Road, Barona Valley Ranch Resort & Casino, Lakeside, 619.387.7018

rancHo bernardo inn Recently renovated after its original 1962 opening, this 18-hole championship course nestled into the northeastern part of San Diego County features two natural lakes, a driving range with grass or mat tees and a championship yardage of 6,631. The resort has hosted PGA and LPGA events and offers instruction and clinics by PGA pros. 17550 Bernardo Oaks Drive, Rancho Bernardo, 858.675.8470

coronado municiPal golf course If you’re able to get on this 18-hole championship course, you may have difficulty keeping your eye on the ball: From the back nine, the views of the Coronado Bridge and the San Diego skyline across the bay can be beautifully distracting. 2000 Visalia Row, Coronado, 619.435.3121

sycuan resort Set amid rugged mountains and natural rock outcroppings, Sycuan Resort is a 25-minute drive east from downtown San Diego. There are two 18-hole championship courses and an 18-hole executive course spread over some 425 acres. Also onsite is a golf school designed exclusively for women of all ages and skill levels, taught by LPGA professionals. 3007 Dehesa Road, El Cajon, 619.442.3425

salt creek golf club Carved through the foothills of Mount Miguel, this 280-acre layout is a links design by John Cook. It features three lakes, 78 bunkers and plenty of lush wetlands. The scenic course is surrounded by a wildlife refuge—not housing developments. Five sets of tees make it playable for all levels, measuring 6,889 yards from the back tees and 5,505 from the forward tees. 525 Hunte Parkway, Chula Vista, 619.482.4666

tHe crossings at carlsbad Located about a mile from the ocean and 30 minutes from downtown San Diego, this 18-hole championship course is the city’s newest facility. As envisioned by architect Greg Nash, the course’s design is inspired by the protected wetlands and rugged canyons surrounding it. Five bridges (or crossings) link the course, which plays par 72 over 6,835 yards. The Crossings also features a lighted practice center, golf shop, walking trails and restaurants. 5800 The Crossings Drive, Carlsbad, 760.444.1800

golf baja Can’t get a tee time, or just craving some post-links mariscos? Head to Baja California, where the crowds are scarce, the scenery is unbeatable and the price is right. These three courses are all within an hour’s drive of the border.

Club Campestre de tijuana The 18-hole urban course at the Tijuana Country Club has an impressive pedigree: It was designed by world-class course architect Alister MacKenzie. Agua Caliente 11311, Tijuana, B.C., 888.217.1165 real del mar This coastal resort 15 minutes south of the border features a par-72, 18-hole course set among canyons; navigating the narrow fairways can be challenging—in a good way. KM 19.5 Tijuana-Ensenada Toll Road, Rosarito, B.C., 800.662.6180 bajamar They call this 27-hole, links-style championship course “the Pebble Beach of Baja” for its multiple cliffside holes; don’t miss Oceano No. 5, 185-yard par-three that carries over a roiling cove. KM 77.5 Tijuana-Ensenada Toll Road, Ensenada, B.C, 888.311.6076.

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where

the guide FALL 2012

DRINK

Classic quaffs New “culinary-inspired” cocktails have arrived at Jsix, the jazzy farm-to-table restaurant on the ground floor of the Hotel Solamar. Utilizing citrus and herbs grown on the hotel’s rooftop garden, the bar has crafted a slate of potent but eminently quaffable sippers inspired by cocktail classics from way back when. Our fave is the Scotsman (pictured), an iced Johnny Walker Blackbased drink whose preparation changes with the seasons, and the Empire State, a Manhattan variation made with vanilla-bean-infused rye whiskey and house-pickled spiced cherries. 616 J St., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.531.8744. p. 53

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Dining SPOTLIGHT

American The 3RD CORNER WINE SHOP & BISTRO  Combining a casual French-American bistro with a retail wine shop, these popular spots give foodies a wealth of pairing options at any budget. L, D (daily till 2 am; closed M in O.B.).  2265 Bacon St., Ocean Beach, 619.223.2700.  Map J8; 897 S. Coast Hwy. 101, Encinitas, 760.942.2104. $$  Map W22 anthology  Swank Little Italy three-story supper club with Todd Allison’s New American menu and live jazz, blues or rock music nightly. L (Tu-F), D (M-Sa), Br (Su).  1337 India St., Little Italy, 619.595.0300. $$  Map P15 Avenue 5  Stylish, comfortable neighborhood eatery serves seasonal French-American cuisine within walking distance of Balboa Park museums and theaters. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su), Br (Su).  2760 Fifth Ave. #100, Bankers Hill, 619.542.0394. $$$  Map O16

UK on wheels

The Brits are known for many things, but haute cuisine generally isn’t one of them. English-born Chef David Keylock is on a mission to change negative attitudes about British food with his newly launched gourmet food truck, God Save the Cuisine, painted to look like one of London’s famous double-decker buses. Keylock, who worked in the kitchens of The Queen herself at Buckingham Palace and Windsor Castle, serves up delectable twists on English classics, like banger dogs, spiced lamb on naan, fish ‘n’ chips tacos and Yorkshire pudding. When you consider Keylock’s royal pedrigree and the organic ingredients he uses, this truly is food fit for a queen. Track the truck via Twitter (@GSTCuisine) or at godsavethecuisine.com.

bankers hill bar and restaurant  Mismatched antique chairs decorate this casual spot with an urban-industrial vibe. Chef Carl Schroeder’s topnotch seasonal menu includes his signature pork tacos and a great burger. D (nightly).  2202 Fourth Ave., Bankers Hill, 619.231.0222. $$  Map O16 barleymash  Smack in the center of the Gaslamp, this spacious brick-walled sports bar serves burgers, spicy beer-boiled prawns and hearty “Barley pie”; martinis galore at Ginger’s cocktail lounge downstairs. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su).  600 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.255.7373. $$  Map Q16 Bertrand at MISTER A’s  Incredible 12th-floor views complemented by fresh, seasonal ingredients. Appetizers range from mac ‘n’ cheese to pan-seared scallops, augmented by an outstanding wine list. L (M–F), D (nightly).  2550 Fifth Ave., Bankers Hill, 619.239.1377. $$$  Map O16 Brockton Villa  An 1894 cottage with spectacular ocean view. Try the Coast Toast, a French toast soufflé from the breakfast menu. B, L, D (daily).  1235 Coast Blvd., La Jolla, 858.454.7393. $$  Map W19 CardifF chart house  Seafood and steakhouse has picturesque coastline location with floor-to-ceiling windows. Indulge in hot chocolate lava cake for dessert. L, D (daily); Br (Su).  2588 S. Coast Hwy. 101, Cardiffby-the-Sea, 760.436.4044. $$$  Map W22 Craft + commerce  Gastropub-inspired food like roasted bone marrow, fried pickles and bacon cracker jacks, plus handcrafted cocktails, local beers and a lively, social bar atmosphere. L, D (daily), Br (Sa-Su).  675 W. Beech St., Little Italy, 619.269.2202. $$  Map W22 CROCE’S RESTAURANT & jazz BAR  Awardwinning cuisine includes seafood, p­asta, poultry, lamb and beef. Run by musician Jim Croce’s widow, Ingrid, the downtown venue pays tribute to its namesake with live music nightly. B, L (Sa-Su); D (nightly).  802 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.233.4355. $$$  Map Q16 dick’s last resort  Buckets of ribs, catfish and crab legs served by a purposefully irreverent waitstaff, plus 66 beers and live music nightly (Th-Sa). L, D (daily).  345 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.231.9100. $$  Map Q16 GINGHAM  Celebri-Chef Brian Malarky’s new “urban cowboy” diner is a twist on classic BBQ: slow-roasted meats, ribs and fried chicken. Craft cocktails and local beers, too. L, D (daily); Br (Su).  8384 La Mesa Blvd., La Mesa, 619.797.1922. $$  Map E4 house of blues  Dan Aykroyd’s nightclub/restaurant features live music nightly in the basement venue and

Guidelines

Restaurants are listed by city on page 60. Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps on pages 76–79. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

Index American............................... 50 Breakfast..................................51 Brewpubs.................................51 California Cuisine................52 Chinese....................................53 Desserts................................. 54 Eclectic/Fusion.................... 54 French..................................... 54

International......................... 54 Italian........................................55 Japanese.................................56 Mexican/Southwestern... 57 Seafood................................58 Steak......................................59 Thai....................................... 60 Wine Bars........................... 60

Southern cuisine (voodoo shrimp, rosemary cornbread, baby-back ribs) in the upstairs restaurant. Sidewalk café dining. D (nightly).  1055 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.299.2583. $$  Map Q16 Jimmy’s Famous American Tavern  Spicy California cheeseburgers and specialty cocktails served in a fun, casual bayside venue; outdoor patio offers great marina views. L, D (daily); Br (Su).  4990 N. Harbor Drive, Point Loma, 619.226.2103. $$  Map K9 THE LION’S SHARE  Unpretentious lounge boasts craft cocktails and game meats (antelope sliders, boar ribs) plus whole fish, pasta and more. D (nightly).  629 Kettner Blvd., downtown, 619.564.6924. $$  Map Q15 NEIGHBORHOOD  This gastropub is a bit snobbish about its condiments (you’ll find no ketchup here), but makes up for it with tasty gourmet burgers, hand-cut sweet potato fries and 27 craft brews. L, D (daily).  777 G St., East Village, 619.446.0002. $  Map Q16 OCEAN HOUSE OF CARLSBAD VILLAGE  Lovely spot in a Victorian mansion comes alive nightly with live entertain­ment and outside dining. Serving seafood, steak and pasta. L, D (daily); Br (Su).  300 Carlsbad Blvd., Carlsbad, 760.729.4131. $$  Map T22 quality social  Billed as “a bar, with food,” this dive-bar-gone-upscale features booze-friendly eats like bacon-wrapped hotdogs and housemade pretzel bites. D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa-Su).  789 Sixth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.501.7675. $$  Map Q16 RED LIGHT DISTRICT  Indulge in Chef Jason Maitland’s bacon-fat mac ‘n’ cheese or cast-iron baked escargot at the Gaslamp’s brand-new dining room and social house. L, D (daily).  409 F St., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.255.2800. $$$  Map Q16 r gang eatery  Top Chef alum Rich Sweeney runs this colorful, clubhouse-like comfort-food spot with a lively open-air patio. Favorites include smoked Gouda mac ‘n’ cheese, portobello fries and tater tots. L (TuTh), D (Tu-Su), Br (F-Su).  3683 Fifth Ave., Hillcrest, 619.677.2845. $$  Map N16 SALTBOX  Hip gastrolounge features entrées made from farm-fresh ingredients and retro-inspired craft cocktails. B, D (daily); L (M-F); Br (Sa-Su).  1047 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.515.3003. $$  Map Q16 searsucker  At this always-hopping Gaslamp hotspot, Top Chef finalist Brian Malarkey crafts a bold, flavorful menu that ranges from a mammoth 32-oz. rib eye to mini appetizer bites. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Su).  611 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.233.7327. $$$  Map Q16

In town for San Diego Beer Week? Sample the local hop-filled bounty at one of many local brewpubs, from Blind Lady Ale House to Stone Brewing Co., listed on p. 51.

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Dining Solace & the Moonlight Lounge Chef Matt Gordon of Urban Solace expands his upscale-comfortfood empire to North County, this time with an emphasis on seafood. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su).  25 East E St., Encinitas, 760.753.2433. $$$  Map W22 TRACTOR ROOM  This dimly lit spot is decked out in hunting lodge chic, with a game-heavy menu that includes crispy elk ravioli and venison meatloaf, plus killer craft cocktails. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su).  3687 Fifth Ave., Hillcrest, 619.543.1007. $$  Map N16 URBAN SOLACE  Neighborhood joint features updated New American comfort cuisine and an intriguing wine, craft beer and cocktail list. Locals love the warm cheese biscuits and Sunday bluegrass brunch. L, D (daily); Br (Su).  3823 30th St., North Park, 619.295.6464. $$  Map N17

Breakfast beach grass cafe  A breezy and casually chic eatery by the beach serves up a health-conscious menu of granola, flapjacks, salads and more. B, L, D (daily).  159 S. Highway 101, Solana Beach, 858.509.0632. $$  Map X22 Brian’s 24  Old-school clubby spot features a mahogany bar, crystal chandelier and 24-hour dining (midnight brunch, anyone?). Burgers, steaks, pasta and chicken and waffles, too. B, L, D (daily).  828 Sixth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.702.8410. $$  Map Q16 CAFÉ 222  Locals line up in droves for Cafe 222’s quirky American cuisine and whimsical décor. Popular menu items include the peanut butter waffle with bananas at breakfast; tuna melts, salads and more at lunch. B, L (daily).  222 Island Ave., downtown, 619.236.9902. $  Map R15 The Cottage  Housed in a charming turn-of-the-century home complete with garden patio, the Cottage is hugely ­popular for breakfast (don’t miss the coffee cake). Sammies and burgers at lunch. B, L (daily); D (Tu-Sa).  7702 Fay Ave., La Jolla, 858.454.8409. $$  Map W19 HASH HOUSE A GO GO  Huge portions of “twisted farm food” that will make your eyes bulge: egg scrambles and more arrive on massive platters, speared with a giant rosemary branch. Expect a long wait at weekend brunch. B, L (daily); D (Tu-Su).  3628 Fifth Ave., Hillcrest, 619.298.4646. $$  Map N16 IsABEL’S CANTINA  A cool, casual spot near the beach serves health-conscious, bold-flavored Latin and Asianinfluenced fare, from tamales to udon noodles. B, L, D (daily).  966 Felspar St., Pacific Beach, 858.272.8400. $$  Map H7 The Mission  This super-popular mini-chain of vegetarian-friendly spots is known for pancakes, French toast, smoothies, breakfast burritos, baked goods and eclectic food. B, L (daily).  3795 Mission Blvd., Mission Beach, 858.488.9060,  Map I7; 2801 University Ave., North Park, 619.220.8992,  Map N17; 1250 J St., East Village, 619.232.7662. $  Map Q17 richard walker’s pancake house  Popular downtown spot with a huge selection of mouth-watering flapjacks and other breakfast and lunch fare. Favorites include the baked apple pancake. B, L (daily).  520 Front St., downtown, 619.231.7777. $  Map Q15 SNOOZE, an a.m. EATERY  Bright, energetic breakfast joint features breakfast faves like eggs Benedict, pancakes, breakfast cocktails and more. B, L (daily).  3940 Fifth Ave., Hillcrest, 619.500.3344. $$  Map N16

Brewpubs Blind Lady Ale House  This bicyclist-friendly uptown spot is a local favorite thanks to its gourmet pizzas, handcrafted organic salads and vast beer selection. There’s even

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Dining a mini-brewery in the back. L, D (Tu-Su).  3416 Adams Ave., Normal Heights, 619.255.2491. $$  Map I12 CORONADO BREWING COMPANY  Fresh from the local microbrewery, the diverse beer selection complements the steaks, seafood, pizzas and pastas in this casual family environment. L, D (daily).  170 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.437.4452. $$  Map L11 Pizza Port  A huge hit with locals, Pizza Port’s three locations deliver quirkily named pies, award-winning private-label beers and a fun, family-friendly environment just blocks from the beach. L, D (daily).  135 N. Highway 101, Solana Beach, 858.481.7332,  Map X22; 571 Carlsbad Village Drive, Carlsbad, 760.720.7007,  Map T22; 1956 Bacon St., Ocean Beach, 619.224.4700. $$  Map W22

NOW SERVING SUNDAY BRUNCH CRAFT COCKTAILS LATE NITE EATS LOCAL FOOD

Stone Brewing Company  Home of Arrogant Bastard Ale, Stone’s massive brewery comes complete with scenic gardens and a restaurant serving eclectic, beer-friendly food inspired by cuisines of the world, like wild boar ribs and duck tacos. L, D (daily).  1999 Citricado Parkway, Escondido, 760.471.4999. $$$  Map C3 yard house  World’s largest selection of draft beer with American fusion cuisine including orange-peel chicken and pan-seared ahi. Extensive ­children’s menu, late-night dining, 152 beers on tap. L, D (daily).  1023 Fourth Ave., downtown, 619.233.9273. $$  Map P16

California Cuisine 1500 OCEAN  Housemade pastas and adventurous starters with bold, inventive flavors define this specialoccasion spot on Coronado, complete with intimate ocean-view terrace, beach cabanas and a wine cellar. D (Tu-Sa).  Hotel del Coronado, 1500 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.522.8490. $$$$  Map L10

3175 INDIA STREET SAN DIEGO CA 92103 619 358 9766 STARLITESANDIEGO.COM A 21 & UP ESTABLISHMENT

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK FOOD UNTIL MIDNIGHT HARD TO FIND SPIRITS

A.R. VALENTIEN  Named for an Impressionist painter whose canvases adorn the walls of this Craftsman-style structure, this celebrated spot features seasonal ingredients fresh from the farm, with Chef Jeff Jackson at the helm. B (Sa-Su); L, D (daily).  11480 N. Torrey Pines Road, La Jolla, 858.777.6635. $$$  Map S19 Arterra  A favorite power-lunch spot, Arterra’s seasonal menu makes good use of locally sourced ingredients in dishes like braised beef short ribs. Sushi bar and outdoor lounge with fire pits and cabanas, too. B (daily), L (M–F), D (M–Sa).  Mariott Del Mar, 11966 El Camino Real, Del Mar, 858.369.6032. $$$  Map X22 bluefire grill  La Costa Resort’s stylish destination dining spot serves coastal delicacies and seasonal vegetables. Elegant setting with indoor waterfall and outdoor fire pits. D (Tu-Sa).  2100 Costa del Mar Road, ­Carlsbad, 760.929.6306. $$$  Map T22 Dobson’s  Power-lunch spot has great California cuisine with a touch of Italian, French, Spanish and Asian, plus seafood ­specialties, including to-die-for mussel bisque with puffed pastry. L (M–F), D (M–Sa).  956 Broadway Circle, downtown, 619.231.6771. $$$  Map Q15 flavor del mar  Contemporary California coastal cuisine in an airy, ocean-view space. L (W-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su).  1555 Camino Del Mar, Del Mar, 858.755.3663. $$$  Map X22 George’s AT THE COVE  La Jolla institution comprises three levels (from elegant to casual), all with picture-perfect views. Award-winning Chef Trey Foshee creates fresh seafood, steak and regional cuisine. L, D (daily).  1250 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.454.4244. $$$$  Map W19 Grant grill  Chef Mark Kropczynski creates dishes with ingredients native to the region—jumbo diver scallops are a signature dish—while Jeff Josenhans crafts mixology magic behind the bar, all inside the historic U.S. Grant Hotel. B, L, D (daily).  326 Broadway, downtown, 619.744.2077. $$$$  Map Q16

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Dining JAYNE’S GASTROPUB  Gastronomy meets pub grub at this UK-inspired casual eatery in Normal Heights. Don’t miss the Jayne burger or the chips and gravy poutine. D (T-Sa). 4677 30th St., North Park, 619.563.1011. $$  Map J12 JSIX  Modern restaurant in Hotel Solamar features seasonal foods inspired by the coastline and area farms, lots of handcrafted elements and wines from Washington to Baja. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su).  616 J St., Gaslamp, 619.531.8744. $$$  Map Q16 JRDN  Hip restaurant at Tower 23 Hotel has steak and seafood dishes, as well as a full raw bar. Patio offers boardwalk and ocean views and great people-watching. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su).  723 Felspar St., Pacific Beach, 858.270.5736. $$$  Map H7 kitchen 1540  Farm-to-table is the concept at this sustainability-minded eatery at L’Auberge Del Mar hotel, featuring cured meats, gourmet cheeses, seafood and pasta dishes and more. B, L, D (daily); Br (Su).  1540 Camino del Mar, Del Mar, 858.793.6460. $$$  Map X22 THE LINKERY  Named one of the best farm-to-table restaurants in the U.S. for its near-exclusive use of local, seasonal ingredients, the Linkery makes nearly everything in-house, including its gourmet sausages. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su).  3794 30th St., North Park, 619.255.8778. $$  Map J12 MARKET RESTAURANT + BAR  Chef Carl Schroeder crafts modern cuisine using local produce, handmade cheeses and locally raised meat. Highlights include the blue cheese souffle, market veggie tasting and desserts like Meyer lemon-cream crepes. D (nightly).  3702 Via de la Valle, Del Mar, 858.523.0007. $$$  Map X22 MISTRAL  Acclaimed Chef Patrick Ponsaty makes unique French/Italian dishes using farm-fresh ingredients and herbs grown in the hotel’s on-site garden. D (Tu-Sa), Br (Su).  4000 Coronado Bay Road, Loews Coronado Bay Resort, Coronado, 619.424.4000. $$$  Map L11 NINE-TEN  Award-winning Chef Jason Knibb creates evolving California cuisine from local, organic ingredients. The Jamaican jerk pork belly appetizer and the braised short rib entrée are highlights. B, L, D (daily).  Grande Colonial Hotel, 910 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.964.5400. $$  Map V19 Sky Room  Elegant dining room features contemporary California cuisine atop a classic hotel with fantastic scenic views. More than 1,000 wines to choose from. D (W-Su).  1132 Prospect St., La Valencia Hotel, La Jolla, 858.454.0771. $$$$  Map W19 STARLITE  Dazzling design complements sustainably farmed food and boutique cocktails at this ultra-hip restaurant/bar. Don’t miss the burger on brioche and the signature Starlite Mule. D (nightly), Br (Su). 21+.  3175 India St., Midtown, 619.358.9766. $$$  Map O15 whisknladle  Chef Ryan Johnson uses local organic ingredients in back-to-basics dishes like roasted bone marrow and chorizo-date fritters. Outdoor patio great for people-watching. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su).  1044 Wall St., La Jolla, 858.551.7575. $$  Map W19

Chinese DEL MAR RENDEZVOUS  Upscale Chinese bistro featuring entrées like Mongolian rack of lamb and steak Shangri-La, plus handmade dumplings and sauces made in-house. L (M-Sa), D (nightly).  1555 Camino del Mar #102, Del Mar, 858.755.2669. $$  Map X22 JASMINE SEAFOOD RESTAURANT  Popular for dim sum, this casual spot also serves authentic Hong Kong-style seafood, duck and barbecue entrées at dinner. L, D (daily).  4609 Convoy St., Kearny Mesa, 858.268.0888. $$  Map G1

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Dining

Underbelly, p. 57 Panda inn A rare sit-down spot at Horton Plaza mall serving Mandarin-style dishes like tea-smoked duck and Phoenix chicken; finish with white-chocolatecovered fortune cookies. L (M-F), D (daily). 506 Horton Plaza, downtown, 619.233.7800. $$ Map Q16 REd PEaRL KiTCHEn Pan-Asian cuisine served in a hip, contemporary bar setting decked out with dark lacquered tones contrasted with vibrant colors and textures. Favorite dishes include hearts of palm salad, spicy tuna tartare, crispy tofu and Alaskan halibut. D (nightly). 440 J St., Gaslamp, 619.231.1100. $$ Map R16

BiSTRO d’aSia Innovative blend of flavors from Beijing, Bangkok and Saigon in dishes like whole Peking duck and “dancing” scallops. Sushi, too: the citrus spicy scallop roll is a happy-hour staple. L, D (daily). 1301 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.437.6677. $$ Map L10

vinCEnT’S Locals’ favorite is a great start to an evening of entertainment at nearby California Center for the Arts. Creative update of classic French cuisine. L (Tu–F), D (Tu–Sa). 113 W. Grand Ave., Escondido, 760.745.3835. $$ Map C3

BURLaP This “Asian cowboy” eatery’s tagline is “Where the West Eats Meat.” Bold flavors and even bolder décor from Thomas Schoos define this hoppin’ spot from celebri-Chef Brian Malarkey. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Su). 12995 El Camino Real #21, Del Mar, 858.369.5700. $$$ Map X22

vinTaGE BiSTRO French comfort food prepared with California-style touches and fine wines in a quaint and intimate bistro setting. L, D (Tu–Sa). 2961 State St., Carlsbad, 760.729.7097. $$ Map T22

indiGO GRiLL Award-winning Chef Deborah Scott explores her love of the spicy and sweet in her twist on Southwestern cuisine. Try her famous Indian corn pudding; Jiffy cornbread mix never tasted so decadent. D (nightly), Br (Su). 1536 India St., Little Italy, 619.234.6802. $$ Map P15 ROPPOnGi Cutting-edge eatery with spectacular décor, including a wall-sized aquarium and outdoor fireplace. Chef Stephen Window’s list of Pacific Rim–style tapas is as extensive as it is excellent. L, D (daily). 875 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.551.5252. $$$ Map W19

French addiSOn Chef William Bradley creates deliriously tasty, elegant dishes from local ingredients with French influences at this ultra-fine restaurant at the Grand Del Mar. D (Tu-Sa). 5200 Grand Del Mar Way, Del Mar, 858.314.1900. $$$$ Map X22

WanG’S nORTH PaRK A former JC Penney’s becomes a sophisticated restaurant and lounge with a wide-ranging menu of Asian dishes and creative cocktails. D (nightly). 3029 University Ave., North Park, 619.291.7500. $$ Map N18

BO BEaU Chef Katherine Humphus’ classic French dishes (boeuf bourguignon, chicken fricasse) are served in a cozy and inviting atmosphere in bohemian Ocean Beach. D (nightly). 4996 W. Point Loma Blvd., Ocean Beach, 619.224.2884 $$ Map J8

Desserts

CaFé CHLOE Locals’-fave offers afternoon “urban tea” (booking required) and bistro cuisine like smoked trout salad, cheese plates and moules frites in a casually elegant setting, complete with patio. B, D (daily). 721 Ninth Ave., East Village, 619.232.3242. $$ Map Q17

CUPS Retro-styled organic cupcake lounge features vegan and gluten-free options plus cheekily named standards like the Elvis (chocolate cake with banana cream filling and peanut buttercream). Open daily. 7857 Girard Ave., La Jolla, 858.459.2877. $ Map W19 EXTRaORdinaRY dESSERTS Topped with edible flowers and gold flakes, Karen Krasne’s stunning tarts, cakes and other treats are truly extraordinary. A must-try. Open daily. 1430 Union St., Little Italy, 619.294.7001, Map P16; 2929 Fifth Ave., Hillcrest, 619.294.2132. $$ Map O16 GHiRaRdELLi SOda FOUnTain A staple in the Gaslamp, this old-timey soda shop serves up rich sundaes, shakes and malts that will take you back to childhood. Open daily. 643 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.234.2449. $ Map Q16

CHEz LOMa Classic romantic dining in a historic Victorian house. Continental/Nouvelle French cuisine with seafood specialties. D (nightly). 1132 Loma Ave., Coronado, 619.435.0661. $$$ Map L10 FaRM HOUSE CaFé At this popular neighborhood spot, Chef Olivier Bioteau serves up rustic French cuisine (like pain perdu with lavender honey) in a cozy and casual setting; tiny patio, too. D (Tu-Su); Br (Su). 2121 Adams Ave., University Heights, 619.269.9662. $$$ Map I12

International aLCHEMY Comfort food with an international twist, using regional ingredients in a low-key (but often noisy) neighborhood spot. Bacon-infused vodka in the Hail Mary is a brunch highlight. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1503 30th St., South Park, 619.255.0616. $$ Map K12 BaYU’S aUTHEnTiC ETHiOPian CUiSinE Find spiced meats, hearty vegetable dishes, injera bread and a popular lunch buffet at this vegetarian-friendly spot in Hillcrest. L, D (daily). 530 University Ave., Hillcrest, 619.269.6142. $$ Map N16 BERTa’S LaTin aMERiCan Latin American specialties can be sampled via generously apportioned tapas in this little Old Town cottage. Entrées like Brazilian vatapá should not be missed. L, D (Tu–Su). 3928 Twiggs St., Old Town, 619.295.2343. $$ Map N13 CaFE SEviLLa Recently reopened in a new Gaslamp location, Sevilla still serves up the same Spanish tapas, seafood specialties, flamenco and salsa lessons that have made it a longtime local favorite. D (nightly). 353 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.233.5979 $$ Map R16 CHOPaHn Enjoy authentic Afghan cuisine including Aushak (steamed dumpling filled with leek and onion) and an array of California wines in a serene setting just off the Gaslamp’s crowded main drag. L (W-Su), D (nightly). 750 Sixth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.236.9236. $$$ Map R16 COSTa BRava Coastal eatery serves Spain’s greatest hits, from jamón iberico to paella to tapas—and don’t forget the sangria. Live music offered throughout the week. L, D (daily). 1653 Garnet Ave., Pacific Beach, 858.273.1218. $$ Map H8 MEdiTERRanEan ROOM Chef Lance Repp’s menu features flavors from across the Mediterranean, including North Africa and Turkey, in dishes like lemon roasted chicken and confit of Moroccan-spiced duck. B, L, D (daily); Br (Su). La Valencia Hotel, 1132 Prospect Ave., La Jolla, 858.551.3765. $$$ Map W19

MaRinE ROOM Outstanding nouveau French food like macadamia-pesto-crusted salmon and artisan cheeses by Chef Bernard Guillas in an unparalleled oceanfront location (at high tide, waves can reach the windows!). D (nightly). 2000 Spindrift Drive, La Jolla, 858.459.7222. $$$$ Map W20

MOnSOOn Authentic Northern Indian cuisine in sophisticated environment. Bounteous lunch buffet; entrées include Bangalore masala and lamb curry. Signature cocktails and wines by the glass. L, D (daily). 729 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.234.5555. $$ Map Q16

MiLLE FLEURS This über-romantic restaurant is a classic date spot in remote, exclusive Rancho Santa Fe. The cuisine is creative, updated French/California (think: escargot and whole dover sole meunière). L (Tu– F), D (nightly). 6009 Paseo Delicias, Rancho Santa Fe, 858.756.3085. $$$$ Map W23

THE PRadO The Prado’s dramatic garden patio is the perfect setting for a drink or a bite after a long day of sightseeing in Balboa Park. The eclectic American menu is spiked with Latin/Italian flair. L (daily), D (Tu-Su). 1549 El Prado, House of Hospitality, Balboa Park, 619.557.9441. $$ Map O17

Eclectic/Fusion

PaMPLEMOUSSE GRiLLE Former New York Chef Jeffrey Strauss brings an imaginative flair to his country French– influenced American menu in a quirky, casually elegant setting near the racetrack. L (F), D (nightly). 514 Via de la Valle, Solana Beach, 858.792.9090. $$$ Map W22

EL q’ERO A rare Peruvian restaurant in North County, featuring regional classics such as lomo saltado and the signature beverage, chicha morada, made from purple corn. L (Tu-Sa), D (M-Sa). 564 S. Coast Hwy. 101, Encinitas, 760.753.9050. $$ Map V22

BaLi Hai Tiki oasis has a Polynesian menu by Chef Ben Lieberman, featuring Korean barbecued ribs and wok-fried whole striped bass, plus fabulous bay views. L (M-Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su). 2230 Shelter Island Drive, Shelter Island, 619.222.1181. $$$ Map K9

TaPEnadE Chef Jean-Michel Diot’s traditional preparations incorporate Mediterranean flavors from regions beyond France. Decadent and savory desserts as well as vegetarian options. L (Tu–F), D (nightly). 7612 Fay Ave., La Jolla, 858.551.7500. $$$ Map W19

REi dO GadO Brazilian-style steakhouse serves succulent mesquite-cooked beef and pork, brought tableside on skewers until you tell them to stop. L, D (daily). 939 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.702.8464. $$ Map Q16

HEavEnLY CUPCaKE Sweets boutique rotates flavors daily, from banana to mocha chip to red velvet. Open daily. 518 Sixth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.235.9235 $ Map Q16 MiCHELE COULOn dESSERTiER A longtime favorite among La Jolla locals, Coulon whips up tortes, homemade jams, breads and quiches using local organic products. (M-Sa). 7556-D Fay Ave., La Jolla, 858.456.5098. $ Map W19

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Experience a FRESH APPROACH

Dining ROYAL INDIA Palatial Gaslamp spot features Northern Indian specialties, bountiful vegetarian options and 30+ different curries. Buffet L (daily), D (nightly). 329 Market St., Gaslamp, 619.269.9999. $$ Map R16

Italian ACQUA AL 2 Sister restaurant to a like-named establishment in Florence, Italy, this spot (a Padres player favorite) serves fresh Tuscan fare in a stylish setting. Pastas, steaks and sandwiches for lunch. L (M–F), D (nightly). 322 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.230.0382. $$ Map Q16 ARRIVEDERCI Charming restaurant with sidewalk seating draws loads of locals for its gnocchi of the day. Sandwiches, pizzas and wines also available. L, D (daily). 3845 Fourth Ave., Hillcrest, 619.299.6282. $$ Map N16

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ASTI Northern Italian with a bistro feel, fresh seafood and steak specialties. Bustling patio dining area makes for great people-watching. L, D (daily). 728 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.232.8844. $$ Map Q16 BENCOTTO Italian for “well-cooked,” this slick, airy new spot in the modern Q Building earns raves for simple but well-executed create-your-own pasta dishes and other Italian specialities. L, D (Tu-Su). 750 W. Fir St., Little Italy, 619.450.4786. $$ Map P15 BICE Milanese authenticity from Chef Mario Cassineri in the heart of downtown; don’t miss the cheese and salumi bar. Great cocktails, too. D (nightly). 425 Island Ave., Gaslamp, 619.239.BICE. $$$ Map Q16 BUCA DI BEPPO Family-style platters of ravioli al pomodoro or spaghetti and meatballs served up in a kitschy and friendly atmosphere. L, D (daily). 705 Sixth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.233.7272. $$ Map Q16 CUCINA URBANA Crowded, chic neighborhood hotspot features housemade pastas, oven-baked pizzas and more Italian farm-to-table cuisine. Wash it down with a sophisticated cocktail or a selection from the onsite retail wine shop. L (Tu-F), D (nightly). 505 Laurel St., Bankers Hill, 619.239.2222. $$ Map O16 DAVANTI ENOTECA Lively newcomer serves rustic Italian share plates like mascarpone polenta, plus pasta, pizza and salumi. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1655 India St., Little Italy, 619.237.9606, Map P15; 12955 El Camino Real, Del Mar, 858.519.5060, $$ Map X22 IL FORNAIO Authentic Italian recipes including excellent pasta, pizza and regional specialties paired with handmade breads. Coronado location has great bay views. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1555 Camino del Mar #301, Del Mar, 858.755.8876, Map X22; 1333 First St., Coronado, 619.437.4911. $$ Map L10 JACK & GIULIO’S Known for its scampi and its spaghetti and meatballs, this Old Town Italian spot is a local favorite. Excellent wines for pairing. D (nightly). 2391 San Diego Ave., Old Town, 619.294.2074. $$ Map N14 LA VILLA Chic Little Italy newcomer with lively patio brings a farm-to-table sensibility to the neighborhood. Signature dishes include crispy-skin Scottish salmon with braised escarole. L, D (daily). 1646 India St., Little Italy, 619.255.5221. $$$ Map P16 THE OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY Italian comfort food served in a historic building with upstairs billiard room and loft bar. Family-friendly with large portions. L, D (daily). 275 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.233.4323. $$ Map R16 OLD VENICE Local favorite boasts easy-going, candlelit atmosphere and Italian cuisine with Mediterranean flavors. Enjoy dishes like the spicy Roma shrimp and chicken picatta. L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 2910 Cañon St., Point Loma, 619.222.5888. $$ Map K8

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Dining Osteria PanevinO Colorful ceramics and marble set the Italian feel for authentic Tuscan cuisine in a classic sidewalk café style; pair your pasta with a domestic or Italian wine. L, D (daily). 722 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.595.7959. $$ Map Q16 Piatti Delicious pastas (ravioli al limone) and other Italian faves near the ocean in La Jolla Shores. The setting is elegant yet family-friendly, with a quaint outdoor patio. L, D (daily); Br (Sa–Su). 2182 Avenida de la Playa, La Jolla, 858.454.1589. $$ Map V20 PO PazzO Italian for “a little crazy,” the menu at this Little Italy spot goes way beyond pasta, to steaks, seafood, veal and more. L, D (daily). 1917 India St., Little Italy, 619.238.1917. $$$ Map P15 trattOria Fantastica Popular eatery serving Sicilian fare in a casual setting, with a charming patio in the back. Specialties include wood-fired pizza and red wine osso bucco. B, L, D (daily). 1735 India St., Little Italy, 619.234.1735. $$ Map P15 trattOria i trULLi Superb pasta and sauces in a rustic setting with more than 100 wines to choose from. The créme brûlée shouldn’t be missed. L, D (daily). 830 S. Coast Hwy. 101 #100, Encinitas, 760.943.6800. $$ Map V22

Using an iPad right at your table build an amazing meal by choosing among over 150 fresh ingredients: Burgers, Pizzas, Mac’n’Cheese, Salads, Shakes, Desserts and a great selection of Beers and Wines all stacked in your flavor! SO MUCH FUN! Fashion Valley / Next To Valet 7007 Friars Rd, San Diego, CA 92108, 619-225-7900

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vivace Marvelous Northern Italian cuisine with a California twist made fresh using only organic ingredients at this gorgeous restaurant at the Park Hyatt Aviara Resort. D (M-Sa), Br (Su). 7100 Four Seasons Point, Carlsbad, 760.603.6999. $$$ Map U22 vigiLUcci’s ristOrante Italian favorites plus Prime steaks, fresh seafood and savory veal, coupled with elegant décor, cozy piano bar and ocean views. L, D (daily); Br (Su at Coronado and Carlsbad). 1300 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.522.0946, Map L10; 2943 State St., Carlsbad, 760.434.2500, Map T22; 505 S. Coast Hwy. 101, Encinitas, 760.942.7332. $$$ Map V22

Japanese caFe JaPengO Bustling atmosphere attracts a hip after-work crowd to this upscale spot specializing in artistic sushi and cocktails. L (M–F), D (nightly). 8960 University Center Lane, La Jolla/Golden Triangle, 858.450.3355. $$ Map T21 HarneY sUsHi Find award-winning sushi with a molecular gastronomy twist at this groovy local minichain, where live DJs spin nightly. L (M-F), D (nightly). 3964 Harney St., Old Town, 619.295.3272, Map J10; 301 Mission Ave., Oceanside, 760.967.1820. $$ Map S22 KatsUYa Master Sushi Chef Katsuya Uechi’s menu features unique rolls, sashimi platters and signature dishes like yellowtail with jalapeño and miso-marinated black cod. L (M-F), D (nightly). 600 F St., downtown, 619.814.2000. $$$ nObU After conquering L.A., New York, Miami, London and Vegas, celeb Chef Nobu Matsuhisa brings his brand to the Hard Rock Hotel. The miso black cod is a house specialty. D (nightly). 207 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.814.4124. $$$ Map Q16 ra sUsHi A hip sushi bar that also features a creative menu of Japanese fusion dishes. Lively bar has Asian-themed cocktails and flat-screen TVs. L, D (daily). 474 Broadway, downtown, 619.321.0021. $$ Map Q16 sUsHi On tHe rOcK This raucous sushi bar is ideal for the fun-seeker who appreciates rock music and a high energy atmosphere with creative rolls and fresh catch. L, D (daily). 1025 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.459.3208. $$ Map W19

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Dining Taka Hip, upscale sushi bar with inventive Asian fusion dishes like miso black cod and oysters dynamite on and off the menu. D (nightly). 555 Fifth Ave.,  Gaslamp, 619.338.0555. $$  Map Q16  uNDeRBelly  Build your own elevated noodle creation from toppings like bacon-wrapped mushrooms and kimchi octopus at this hip, casual ramen bar. L, D (daily). 750 Fir St., Little Italy, 619.269.4626. $  Map P15 zeNBu Innovative sushi rolls and sashimi crafted from line-caught fish brought in by the owner’s personal fleet of fishing boats. Ask the staff about special offthe-menu rolls. D (nightly). 7660 Fay Ave., La Jolla,  858.454.4540,  Map W19; 2003 San Elijo Ave., Cardiff,  760.633.2223. $$$  Map W22

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el agave No mere burrito factory, this is upscale Mexico City-style cuisine in exotic dishes like cuitlacoche tlacoyo on blue corn tortillas. There are also some 2,000 tequilas available to sample. L, D (daily). 2304 San  Diego Ave., Old Town, 619.220.0692. $$  Map M14 alfONSO’S A La Jolla institution since 1971, Alfonso’s prime location offers great people-watching from the sidewalk terrace. Family recipes include carne asada Alfonso. L, D (daily). 1251 Prospect St., La Jolla,  858.454.2232. $$  Map V19 Cafe COyOTe South-of-the-border classics in a lively setting right in the center of Old Town. Choose from more than 100 tequilas in your margarita to wash down an order of enchiladas suizas. B, L, D (daily). 2461 San  Diego Ave., Old Town, 619.291.4695. $$  Map M14 CaNDelaS Find tequila prawns flambé over ahi tuna (but no burritos) at this romantic nouvelle Mexican spot with breathtaking views of San Diego’s skyline. D (nightly) at both locations; additional Br (Su), L (M-F) in Coronado only. 416 Third Ave., downtown,  619.702.4455,  Map R16; 1201 First St. #115, Coronado,  619.435.4900. $$$  Map L10 CaSa guaDalajaRa Talavera tiles, folk art, a garden patio and a 200-year-old pepper tree define the setting; cuisine includes regional dishes like chicken and mango quesadilla and tequila-lime shrimp. L, D (daily).   4105 Taylor St., Old Town, 619.295.5111. $$  Map N13  la fIeSTa California-style Mexican dishes like lobster quesadilla and Tijuana burger in a casual, colorful, centrally located setting. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 628 Fifth  Ave., Gaslamp, 619.232.4242. $$  Map Q16  eN fuegO A Mexican restaurant with a lively bar scene, En Fuego specializes in traditional Mexican food like empanadas, tamales and seafood specialties such as mango salsa tilapia. Sip on specialty mojitos and margaritas of all flavors. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1342  Camino del Mar, Del Mar, 858.792.6551. $$  Map X22  mIguel’S COCINa This family-owned restaurant chain dates back to 1982. Each location has its own breezy vibe, but all serve Miguel’s seriously addictive queso dip. L, D (daily); Br (Su, also Sa on Coronado). 2912 Shelter Island  Drive, 619.224.2401,  Map K9; 1351 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.437.4237,  Map L10; 2444 San Diego Ave., Old  Town, 619.298.9840, $$  Map N13 OlD TOWN meXICaN Cafe This Old Town staple is famous for its handmade tortillas, which you can see being made fresh daily through the restaurant’s front window. A festive atmosphere awaits inside. B, L, D (daily). 2489 San  Diego Ave., Old Town, 619.297.4330. $  Map N13 el Take IT eaSy No burritos at this cool, urban Tijuana-inspired “gastrocantina.” Instead try the house-cured country ham or rabbit cazuela. World-class craft beers and boutique wines, too. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 3926  30th St., North Park. 619.291.1859. $$  Map J12

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Dining EL VITRAL  Serving creative, authentic Mexican fare, signature margaritas (try the Cuco-Yaya) and more than 250 tequilas in an airy converted warehouse space near the ballpark. Br (Sa-Su); D (nightly).  815 J St., East Village, 619.236.9420. $$$  Map R16

Seafood anthony’s fish grotto  Bayside restaurant has served up fresh catches, fish ‘n’ chips and Mama’s famous clam chowders for 60 years running. And you can’t argue with those bay views. L (M-Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su).  1360 N. Harbor Drive, Embarcadero, 619.232.5103. $$$  Map Q15 BALEEN  Paradise Point Resort’s signature restaurant serves upscale seafood and “land-food” with stellar bay views in an island-inspired and family-friendly environment. D (nightly).  1404 W. Vacation Road, Mission Bay, 858.490.6363. $$$  Map I8 Blue Point Coastal Cuisine  California-style seafood and fresh oysters plus blue crab and white truffle mac ‘n’ cheese. Hip martini bar and decadent desserts, too. D (nightly).  565 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.233.6623. $$$$  Map Q16 the brigantine  Popular chain with a rollicking happy hour, steaks and chops is known for its fish tacos, swordfish and oyster bars. L, D (daily), Br (Su at Del Mar and Coronado).  2725 Shelter Island Drive, Shelter Island, 619.224.2871,  Map K8; 3263 Camino del Mar, Del Mar, 858.481.1166,  Map X22; 1333 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.435.4166. $$  Map L10 CORONADO BOATHOUSE 1887  Prime rib and fish specialties like macadamia-crusted halibut in a historic structure on the waterfront. D (nightly).  1701 Strand Way, Coronado, 619.435.0155. $$  Map L10 Donovan’s prime seafood Popular steakhouse chain makes a splash with this chef-driven seafood venture in prime Gaslamp location. D (M-Sa).  333 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.906.4850. $$$  Map R16 eddie V’s prime seafood Find seafood classics like shrimp cocktail, ahi tartare and lobster bisque, plus 28-day aged Prime center-cut steaks at this new La Jolla spot. D (nightly).  1270 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.459.5500. $$$-$$$$  Map W19 The Fish Market/Top of the Market  Casual dining includes seafood and sushi, plus oyster bar and bay view. Upstairs: Top of the Market features fine seafood and an expanded wine list. L, D (daily).  750 N. Harbor Drive, Embarcadero, 619.232.3474,  Map Q15; 640 Via de la Valle, Solana Beach, 858.755.2277. $$  Map X22 humphrey’s RESTAURANT  Yacht-club views with bayside seafood like sauteed Georges bank scallops and pepper-crusted king salmon. B, L, D (daily); Br (Su).  2241 Shelter Island Drive, Shelter Island, 619.224.3577. $$$  Map K8

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island prime  Seafood, steak and cocktails complemented by one of the city’s best views. Adjacent C Level Lounge on the spacious deck is popular with the after-work crowd. L, D (daily).  880 Harbor Island Drive, Harbor Island, 619.298.6802. $$$  Map J10 Mccormick & schmick’s  Stylish seafood chain is located in the Omni Hotel, adjacent to Petco Park. Fresh catch includes some local selections like swordfish and albacore from nearby Catalina Island. B, L, D (daily).  675 L St., downtown, 619.645.6545. $$$  Map Q16 The oceanaire seafood room  Retro oceanliner design features a bustling cocktail scene with oyster bar. Market-fresh seafood and regionally inspired dishes star on the daily-changing menu. D (nightly).  400 J St., Gaslamp, 619.858.2277. $$$  Map Q16

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Dining

SPECTACULAR WATERFRONT DINING Enjoy breathtaking breathtaking views views Enjoy of the the coastline coastline while while you you of dine on on fresh fresh fish fish specialties, specialties, dine award-winning prime prime rib rib and and award-winning decadent desserts. desserts. decadent Chart House House is is your your place place Chart for outstanding outstanding cuisine cuisine and and for impeccable service. service. impeccable

OSETRA Indulge in caviar, vodka and oysters at this progressive eatery, whose interior is defined by a three-story wine tower. Prime-aged meats are also on the menu. D (nightly). 904 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.239.1800. $$$ Map Q16 PACIFICA DEL MAR Upscale ocean-view Asian fusion spot attracts a power crowd with mustard catfish and sugar-spiced salmon. Visit the vodka bar with more than 160 selections. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1555 Camino del Mar, Del Mar, 858.792.0476. $$$ Map X22 PEOHE’S Tropical décor with spectacular water views and Pacific Rim plates like crispy wok-fried whole bass and fire shrimp. L, D (daily); Br (Su). 1201 First St., Coronado, 619.437.4474. $$$ Map K10

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Peohe’s offers offers guests guests an an Peohe’s island-inspired menu menu featuring featuring island-inspired an eclectic eclectic mix mix of of fresh fresh seafood, seafood, an mouthwatering steaks, steaks, new new wave wave mouthwatering sushi and and more. more. Enjoy Enjoy Peohe’s Peohe’s sushi all new new modern modern decor decor and and all stunning waterfront waterfront view view of of stunning the San San Diego Diego skyline. skyline. the

SALLY’S Chef Sarah Linkenheil presides over this marina venue with amazing views and exhibition kitchen. Seafoodheavy menu includes chili-cumin diver scallops and lobster pot pie. L, D (daily) Manchester Grand Hyatt, 1 Market Place, Embarcadero, 619.358.6740. $$$ Map Q15 SEA ROCKET BISTRO Find creative dishes made using only local, sustainable seafood and organic produce. Specialties include sea urchin bisque in the shell and portobello mushroom sandwich, plus craft beers and wines. L (Sa-Su), D (nightly). 3382 30th St., North Park, 619.255.7049. $$ Map N18

Steak COWBOY STAR With barstools upholstered in cowhide, this downtown steakhouse is decked out in Old West style. Great cocktails. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su). 640 10th Ave., East Village, 619.450.5880. $$$ Map Q17 DONOVAN’S STEAK & CHOP HOUSE The power crowd noshes on huge portions of Prime steaks, chops and seafood paired with award-winning wines in a lively atmosphere. D (nightly; M-Sa at La Jolla). 4340 La Jolla Village Drive, La Jolla, 858.450.6666, Map T21; 570 K St., Gaslamp, 619.237.9700. $$$ Map R16 FLEMING’S PRIME STEAKHOUSE & WINE BAR Upscale steakhouse with Prime steaks, seafood, hearty side dishes and an excellent wine list (100+ choices by the glass). D (nightly). 8970 University Center Lane, La Jolla, 858.535.0078, Map T21; 380 K St., Gaslamp, 619.237.1155. $$$-$$$$ Map Q16

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GEORGES ON FIFTH Wins over diners with its center-cut certified Angus Prime beef, American Kobe, fresh seafood, pasta and award-winning wine list. Live music Sa. D (nightly). 835 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.702.0444. $$$$ Map Q16 GREYSTONE, THE STEAKHOUSE Prime steaks, seafood (try the Dover sole prepared tableside) and pastas in a great downtown location. Beefy menu includes filet mignon potstickers, Kobe carpaccio and more. D (nightly). 658 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.232.0225. $$$ Map Q16 LOU & MICKEY’S Chop house with a mid-century feel features Prime steaks, chops and seafood, plus martinis shaken tableside and 350+-item wine list. L, D (daily). 224 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.237.4900. $$$ Map Q16

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MORTON’S, THE STEAKHOUSE USDA Prime-aged beef, seafood, fine wine, chilled cocktails, decadent desserts, crisp white linens and great service at the edge of the historic Gaslamp Quarter. D (nightly). 285 J St., downtown, 619.696.3369. $$$-$$$$ Map Q16 THE PALM RESTAURANT Steak, lobster and pastas served in a saloon-like atmosphere with classic caricatures drawn with charcoals and pastels right on the walls. D (nightly). 615 J St., Gaslamp, 619.702.6500. $$$ Map P16

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Dining The Steakhouse at Azul La Jolla  Chef Carmine Lopez has a menu featuring Waygu beef and fresh seafood. A garden patio is defined by a contemporary glass-encircled fire ring. D (nightly), Br (F-Su).  1250 Prospect St. #C10, La Jolla, 858.454.9616. $$$  Map W19 VIGILUCCI’S SEAFOOD, STEAK & CHOP HOUSE  Italian-influenced chop house features steaks, oysters (baked and on the half shell) and pastas like the classic capellini checca, along with breathtaking beach views. L, D (daily); Br (Su). 3878 Carlsbad Blvd., Carlsbad, 760.434.2580. $$$  Map T22

Thai Lotus thai  Elegant bamboo décor and modern Thai cuisine with specialties including Choo Chee pork chops and roasted half-duck curry. L (M-F), D (nightly).  3761 Sixth Ave., Hillcrest, 619.299.8272,  Map N16; 906 Market St., downtown, 619.595.0115. $$  Map Q17 rama  Traditional Thai in a stylish, exotic setting (check out the waterfall in the back room). Specialties include Crying Tiger, with thinly sliced filet mignon. L (M-Sa), D (nightly).  327 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.501.8424. $$  Map Q16 Spice & Rice Thai Kitchen  Local favorite offers creative twist on Thai in specialties like Panang curry duck and spicy chili halibut. L (M–Sa), D (nightly).  7734 Girard Ave., La Jolla, 858.456.0466. $$  Map W19

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Swadee Restaurant of Coronado  Quaint eatery in Coronado known for its tasty curries and friendly service. L (M-Sa), D (nightly).  1001 C Ave., Coronado, 619.435.8110. $$  Map L10

Wine Bars counterpoint  Ultra-friendly neighborhood wine bar serves salads, panini, craft beer, international wines and gourmet cheeses. L (Sa-Su), D (nightly).  830 25th St., Golden Hill, 619.564.6722. $$  Map Q18 THE GRAPE  S.D.’s original wine bar features excellent wine list plus artisanal cheeses, breads and antipasti. Open nightly at 5 pm.  823 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.238.8010. $$  Map Q15

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WE OLIVE  Olive oil tasting room also includes coastalview wine bar featuring California wines and tastings of gourmet food items. L, D (daily).  1158 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.551.8250. $$  Map W19 the wine lover  Parisian-inspired wine shop features California and international wines, gourmet cheeses and imported olives. Store open daily from 4:30 pm.  L (Tu-Su), D (nightly). 3968 Fifth Ave., Hillcrest, 619.294.9200. $$$  Map V23 wine steals  Lively atmosphere and wine-friendly eats (cheeses, pizzas and charcuterie) at good prices. Open daily.  1953 San Elijo Ave., Cardiff, 760.230.2657, Map W22; 1243 University Ave., Hillcrest, 619.295.1188,  Map N17; 2970 Truxton Road, Point Loma, 619.221.1959. $$  Map J9 WINE VAULT & BISTRO  A truly special find in Mission Hills, this place serves five-course set-menu wine dinners every Saturday, with wine flights and special events during the week. Food ranges from Italian to French to California, depending on the evening.  3731-A India St., S. Mission Hills, 619.295.3939. $$  Map P15

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Restaurants City Index Our superguide by area, with cross reference to listings by cuisine. GASLAMP QUARTER AREA aCqua al 2  (Italian).............................................................................. 55 asti  (Italian)................................................................................................... 55 barleymash  (American)..................................................................... 50 bice  (Italian).................................................................................................. 55 blue point  (Seafood)............................................................................ 58 brian’s 24  (Breakfast)............................................................................ 51 buca di beppo  (Italian)...................................................................... 55 cAFE SEVILLA  (International)............................................................... 54 cHOPAHN  (International)........................................................................ 54 croce’s  (American)................................................................................. 50 dick’s last resort  (American).................................................... 50 donovan’s  (Steak)............................................................................... 59 donovan’s prime seafood  (Seafood)............................... 58 LA FIESTA  (Mexican)................................................................................. 57 fleming’s  (Steak).................................................................................... 59 Georges on fifth  (Steak)............................................................. 59 GHIRARDELLI SODA FOUNTAIN  (Desserts)............................ 54 the grape  (Wine bars).......................................................................... 60 greystone  (Steak)................................................................................ 59 HEAVENLY CUPCAKE  (Desserts)..................................................... 54 House of Blues  (American)............................................................ 50 JSIX  (California Cuisine)............................................................................... 53 katsuya  (Japanese)................................................................................. 56 lou & mickey’s  (Steak)..................................................................... 59 mccormick & schmick’s  (Seafood) ...................................... 58 monsoon  (International) .................................................................... 54 nOBU  (Japanese)......................................................................................... 56 The oceanaire  (Seafood)................................................................. 58 tHE OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY  (Italian).................................. 55 osetrA  (Seafood)...................................................................................... 59 osteria panevino  (Italian)............................................................ 56 THE PALM RESTAURANT  (Steak)................................................... 59 quality social  (American).............................................................. 50 rama  (Thai)................................................................................................. 60 red light district  (American)..................................................... 50 rED PEARL KITCHEN  (Chinese)....................................................... 54 rei do gado  (International)............................................................... 54 royal INDIA  (International)................................................................. 55 saltbox  (American)................................................................................. 50 searsucker  (American)....................................................................... 50 taka  (Japanese)........................................................................................... 57

downtown/EAST VILLAGE/EMBARCADERO ANTHONY’S FISH GROTTO  (Seafood)........................................ 58 cafe 222  (Breakfast)................................................................................ 51 cafe CHLOE  (French)............................................................................. 54 CANDELAS  (Mexican/Southwestern)................................................... 57 CounterpoinT  (Wine Bars).............................................................. 60 Cowboy star (Steak).............................................. 59 dobson’s  (California Cuisine).............................................................. 52 the fish market  (Seafood) ............................................................ 58 grant grill  (California Cuisine)........................................................ 52 the lion’s share  (American)......................................................... 50 lotus thai  (Thai)................................................................................... 60 the mission  (Breakfast)....................................................................... 51 morton’s, THE STEAKHOUSE  (Steak)................................... 59 neighborhood  (American)............................................................ 50 panda inn  (Chinese)............................................................................. 54 ra sushi  (Japanese)................................................................................. 56 richard walker’s pancake HOUSE  (Breakfast)......... 51 sally’s  (Seafood)....................................................................................... 59 top of the market  (Seafood)..................................................... 58 El Vitral  (Mexican/Southwestern)...................................................... 58 YARD HOUSE  (Brewpubs)...................................................................... 52

Little italy ANTHOLOGY  (American)....................................................................... 50 bencotto  (Italian)................................................................................. 55 CRAFT + COMMERCE  (American)................................................... 50 davanti enoteca  (Italian)............................................................. 55 extraordinary desserts  (Desserts)................................... 54 indigo grill  (Eclectic/Fusion)........................................................... 54 la villa  (Italian)........................................................................................ 55 po pazzo  (Italian).................................................................................... 56

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trattoria fantastica  (Italian)................................................. 56 underbelly  (Japanese)........................................................................ 57 wine vault & bistro  (Wine bars)............................................... 60

La jolla alfonso’s  (Mexican/Southwestern)................................................. 57 A.R. Valentien  (California Cuisine).................................................. 52 brockton villa  (American)........................................................... 50 cafe japengo  (Japanese)................................................................. 56 cups  (Dessert)............................................................................................. 54 the cottage  (Breakfast).................................................................... 51 donovan’s  (Steak)............................................................................... 59 Eddie V’s prime seafood  (Seafood)...................................... 58 fleming’s  (Steak).................................................................................... 59 george’s at the cove  (Cal. Cuisine)....................................... 52 marine room  (French)....................................................................... 54 Mediterranean Room  (International).................................... 54 michele coulon  (Desserts)........................................................... 54 nine-ten  (California Cuisine)................................................................. 53 piatti  (Italian)............................................................................................... 56 roppongi  (Eclectic/Fusion).................................................................. 54 sky room  (California Cuisine).............................................................. 53 spice & rice  (Thai)................................................................................. 60 Steakhouse at azul  (Steak)....................................................... 60 sushi on the rock  (Japanese).................................................... 56 tapEnade  (French).................................................................................. 54 Whisknladle  (California Cuisine)..................................................... 53 we olive  (Wine bar)................................................................................ 60 zenbu  (Japanese)....................................................................................... 57

mission bay/beaches the 3rd corner  (American)........................................................... 50 baleen  (Seafood)...................................................................................... 58 bo beau  (French)...................................................................................... 54 Costa brava  (International)............................................................... 54 isabel’s cantina  (Breakfast)........................................................... 51 JRDN  (California Cuisine)............................................................................ 53 the mission  (Breakfast)....................................................................... 51 pizza port  (Brewpubs).......................................................................... 52

Harbor & shelter islandS point loma bali hai  (Eclectic/Fusion)........................................................................ 54 the brigantine  (Seafood)................................................................ 58 humphrey’s restaurant  (Seafood)....................................... 58 island Prime  (Seafood)....................................................................... 58 jimmy’s famous American tavern (American)............................ 50 miguel’s cocina  (Mexican/Southwestern).................................. 57 OLD venice  (Italian)............................................................................... 55 wine steals  (Wine bars)..................................................................... 60

CORONADO 1500 OCEAN  (California Cuisine)......................................................... 52 bistro d’Asia  (Eclectic/Fusion)......................................................... 54 the brigantine  (Seafood)................................................................ 58 candelas  (Mexican/Southwestern)................................................... 57 chez loma  (French).............................................................................. 54 coronado boathouse 1887  (Seafood)............................. 58 coronado brewing co.  (Brewpubs).................................... 52 il fornaio  (Italian)................................................................................ 55 miguel’s cocina  (Mexican/Southwestern).................................. 57 Mistral  (California Cuisine).................................................................... 53 Peohe’s  (Seafood).................................................................................... 59 swadee restauranT  (Thai)......................................................... 60 Vigilucci’s Ristorante  (Italian)............................................... 56

del mar/rancho Santa fe ADDISON  (French)..................................................................................... 54 Arterra  (California Cuisine).................................................................. 52 the brigantine  (Seafood)................................................................ 58 burlap  (Eclectic/Fusion).......................................................................... 54 davanti enoteca  (Italian)............................................................. 55 DEL MAR RENDEZVOUS  (Chinese)............................................... 53 Flavor del mar  (California Cuisine)............................................. 52

en fuego  (Mexican/Southwestern).................................................... 57 il fornaio  (Italian)................................................................................ 55 kitchen 1540  (California Cuisine)...................................................... 53 MARKET  (California Cuisine).................................................................... 53 mille fleurs  (French).......................................................................... 54 pacifica del mar  (Seafood)........................................................... 59

North coastal the 3rd corner  (American)........................................................... 50 beach grass cafe  (Breakfast)..................................................... 51 bluefire grill  (California Cuisine)................................................... 52 cardiff chart house  (American)............................................ 50 the fish market  (Seafood)............................................................. 58 Harney Sushi  (Japanese)................................................................... 56 OCEAN HOUSE  (American).................................................................. 50 PAMPLEMOUSSE grille  (French)................................................. 54 pizza port  (Brewpubs).......................................................................... 52 EL Q’ERO  (International).......................................................................... 54 solace & the moonlight  lounge  (American)............................................................................. 51 TRATTORIA I TRULLI  (Italian)............................................................. 56 VIGILUCCI’S SEAFOOD, STEAK & CHOP HOUSE  (Steak)................................................. 60 vigilucci’s ristorante  (Italian)............................................... 56 VINTAGE BISTRO  (French)................................................................... 54 vivace  (Italian)........................................................................................... 56 Wine steals  (Wine bars)..................................................................... 60 zenbu  (Japanese)....................................................................................... 57

escondido/La mesa gingham  (American).............................................................................. 50 stone brewing co.  (Brewpubs)................................................. 52 Vincent’s  (French).................................................................................. 54

hillcrest/NORTH PARK/ mission hills Alchemy  (International)......................................................................... 54 ARRIVEDERCI  (Italian)............................................................................ 55 avenue 5  (American).............................................................................. 50 Bankers hill  (American).................................................................... 50 bayu’s ethiopian cuisine  (Int’l)............................................. 54 bertrand at mr. a’s  (American)................................................ 50 blind lady ale house  (Brewpubs)........................................... 51 CUCINA URBANA  (Italian).................................................................. 55 extraordinary desserts  (Desserts)................................... 54 farm house cafe  (French)............................................................ 54 hash house a go go  (Breakfast)............................................. 51 jayne’s gastropub  (California Cuisine).................................... 53 The Linkery  (California Cuisine)......................................................... 53 lotus thai  (Thai)................................................................................... 60 the mission  (Breakfast)....................................................................... 51 the prado  (International).................................................................... 54 r gang eatery  (American)............................................................... 50 sea rocket bistro  (Seafood)....................................................... 59 snooze  (Breakfast).................................................................................. 51 STARLITE  (California Cuisine) .................................................................. 53 el take it easy  (Mexican/Southwestern)...................................... 57 tractor room  (American).............................................................. 51 urban solace  (American)................................................................ 51 wang’s  (Chinese)...................................................................................... 54 the wine lover  (Wine bars)........................................................... 60 wine steals  (Wine bars)..................................................................... 60

Old town el agave  (Mexican/Southwestern)...................................................... 57 berta’s  (International).............................................................................. 54 cafe coyote  (Mexican/Southwestern).......................................... 57 casa guadalajara  (Mexican/Southwestern)......................... 57 Harney sushi  (Japanese)................................................................... 56 jack & giulio’s  (Italian).................................................................... 55 miguel’s cocina  (Mexican)............................................................. 57 old town mexican cafe  (Mexican)..................................... 57

Mission valley/kearny mesa JASMINE SEAFOOD  (Chinese).......................................................... 53

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Entertainment SAN DIEGO FESTIVAL OF BEER Sept. 21. The 18th annual festival features live music and samples from more than 100 different microbreweries. Columbia and B sts., downtown, sdbeerfest.org. Map Q15 ARTWALK ON THE BAY Sept. 22-23. Artists from around the nation and Mexico display their original artworks for exhibition and sale in this open-air gallery with beautiful bay views. The Waterfront Park at the Hilton San Diego Bayfront, downtown, 619.615.1090. Map R16 SAN DIEGO BLuES FESTIVAL Sept. 22. Each admission provides 30 meals for hungry San Diegans. Henry Gray, Tab Benoit, Janiva Magness, Kim Wilson’s Blues All-Stars, Ben Powell, Missy Andersen, Taryn Donath, Zac Harmon, Nathan James & the Rhythm Scratchers and Randy Oxford Band. Embarcadero Marina Park North, 500 Kettner Blvd., downtown, 619.686.6200 Map R15

Stand up!

With the success of shows like the Comedy Central celebrity roasts and FX’s Louie, starring Louis C.K., it’s clear that standup comedy is officially having a moment, and San Diego has a new venue that’s attracting some of the most promising talent on the circuit to a brick-walled basement in the Gaslamp Quarter. Since opening its doors in March, the American Comedy Co. has hosted boldfaced names like Saturday Night Live veterans Kevin Nealon and Tim Meadows (pictured); upcoming comics include JB Smoove, of Curb Your Enthusiasm fame (Sept. 6-8), and Jamie Kennedy (Sept. 13-15). For the latest schedule, log on to the club’s website, americancomedyco.com. 2818-B Sixth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.795.3858

OLD GLOBE SHAKESpEARE FESTIVAL Through Sept. 29. The Old Globe presents As You Like It and Richard III, performed in nightly repertory on the outdoor stage. 1363 Old Globe Way, Balboa Park, 619.234.5623. Map Q17 CORONADO ART WALK Sept. 15-16. Open-air arts festival accompanied by performers and live music. More than 90 artists will display their wares in historic downtown Coronado. 1100 Orange Ave., 619.435.7242. Map L11 pACIFIC ISLANDER FESTIVAL Sept. 22-23. The 17th annual event celebrates the food, art and culture of Melanesia, Micronesia and Polynesia. Ski Beach, Mission Bay, 619.699.8797. Map I8 ADAMS AVENuE STREET FAIR Sept. 29-30. The 31st annual event, SoCal’s largest free two-day music festival, features 70 musical acts on six stages, plus carnival rides, beer gardens, vendors and more. Adams Ave. between 32nd and 35th streets, Normal Heights, 619.282.7329. Map I12 OCEANSIDE HARBOR DAYS Sept. 29-30. Sun, sand, surf and activities, from pier fishing to boat-building contests. Oceanside Harbor, 760.722.1534. Map S22 CABRILLO FESTIVAL Sept. 29-30. Special events commemorate Juan Cabrillo’s exploration of the West Coast in 1542. Ballast Point and Cabrillo National Monument, 1800 Cabrillo Memorial Drive, Point Loma, 619.557.5450. Map L8 SAN DIEGO FILM FESTIVAL Sept. 26-30. Five-day bonanza in the Gaslamp showcases independent feature films, documentaries and shorts. Gaslamp 15 Cinemas, 619.582.2368. Map Q16 FASHION WEEK SAN DIEGO Oct. 1-7. San Diego’s first fashion week will showcase local and national designers, with a range of styles from street couture to modern glamour. Hard Rock Hotel, 207 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.702.3000 Map Q16; FIDM, 350 10th Ave., East Village, 619.235.2049 Map Q16 JuLIAN FALL AppLE HARVEST Mid-Sept.-Oct. Enjoy autumn foliage, art, entertainment and seasonal foods such as apple cider and pie. Special events on weekends, including the Julian Grape Stomp Festa on Sept. 1. Julian, 760.765.1857. Map C6 OKTOBERFEST LA MESA Oct. 5-7. About 200,000 revelers attend this 38th annual Oktoberfest, the largest of its kind west of the Mississippi. Three hundred vendors, three beer gardens, five food courts and a kiddie carnival fill six city blocks. Spring St. and La Mesa Blvd., La Mesa, 619.462.3002. Map E3

Guidelines

Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps on pages 76–79. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

Index

Festivals ................................62 Special Events.........................62 Theater .................................63 Music + Dance ..................65 Sports....................................67 Casinos.................................67

Attractions ..........................68 Wineries ..............................68 Museums ............................69 Destination Shopping ......71 Nightlife................................72 Tours......................................74

OLD TOWN ART FESTIVAL Oct. 6-7. More than 100 hand-picked artists from across the country show and sell their works in Old Town State Historic Park. 4000 Twiggs St., Old Town, 619.233.5008. Map J10

THE GOuRMET EXpERIENCE Sept. 22-23. Taste the newest gourmet foods, test kitchen equipment, check out new trends in decorating. Del Mar Fairgrounds, 2260 Jimmy Durante Blvd., thegourmetexpo.com Map X22 LA JOLLA ART & WINE FESTIVAL Oct. 13-14. This two-day event features 300 SoCal and Baja artists plus fine local wines and beer, live entertainment and more. Girard Ave., between Prospect Ave. and Kline St. lajollaartandwinefestival.com. Map W19 OCEAN BEACH OKTOBERFEST Oct. 12-13. Live bands, bratwurst-eating contests, a sausage toss and more on O.B.’s Newport Avenue. Ocean Beach, 619.224.4906. Map J8 LITTLE ITALY FESTA Oct. 14. Music, Italian food and specialty crafts are highlighted at this free event, which also features a popular street painting festival. India St. between Ash and Grape sts., Little Italy, 619.615.1092. Map P15 SAN DIEGO ASIAN FILM FESTIVAL Nov. 1-9. The 12th annual event includes feature films, shorts and animation from Asian artists worldwide. UltraStar Cinemas, 7519 Hazard Center Drive, Mission Valley, 858.565.1264. Map M18 DEL MAR HARVEST FESTIVAL Oct. 19-21. This 37th annual festival showcases 300 American artists, plus entertainment, food samples and kids’ crafts. 2260 Jimmy Durante Blvd., Del Mar, 415.447.3205. Map X22 SAN DIEGO ITALIAN FILM FESTIVAL Oct. 26-Nov. 10. The fourth annual event presents 14 recent awardwinning Italian films with English subtitles. Museum of Photographic Arts, 1649 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.238.7559. Map O18 CARLSBAD VILLAGE FAIRE Nov. 4. Street fair features more than 900 vendors with international food, art and live entertainment. Grand Avenue near the ocean, Carlsbad, 760.945.9288. Map T22 SAN DIEGO BAY WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL Nov. 14-18. SoCal’s largest wine and food fest features cooking classes, wine-tasting seminars, exhibits, wine dinners and celebrity chefs. Embarcadero Marina Park North, downtown, 619.342.7337. Map R15 SAN DIEGO THANKSGIVING DIXIELAND JAZZ FESTIVAL Nov. 21-25. The 33rd annual event features 25+ performances by international artists. Town & Country Hotel, 500 Hotel Circle North, Mission Valley, 619.297.5277. Map M15

Comedian Steve Martin has worn many hats: banjo player, author, actor—even playwright. Fans shouldn’t miss his adaptation of “The Underpants” at North Coast Rep. p. 65

mark mecalis

Festivals

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Entertainment Special Events ART SAN DIEGO Sept. 6-9. Contemporary art fair features gallery exhibitors, panel discussions, art labs and special events. Balboa Park, 619.564.3333. Map O18

Margaret Noble 44th and Landis

SAN DIEGO BAYFAIR Sept. 14-16. Crowds flock to Ski Beach to catch the World Series of Power Boat Racing, featuring intense water competition and the fastest powerboats in the world. Race course runs between Crown Point and Fiesta Island, Mission Bay, 619.434.8260. Map I9 DISNEY LIVE! Sept. 27. Disney channel characters are brought to life as Phineas and Ferb comes to the stage. Valley View Casino Center, 3500 Sports Arena Blvd., Midway, 619.224.4171. Map N13

AUGUST 9, 2012 THROUGH JANUARY 20, 2013

FLEET WEEK SAN DIEGO Sept. 8-Oct. 14. A tribute to military service men and women includes U.S. Navy ship tours (Sept. 15-16), Coronado Speed Festival vintage car races (Sept. 22-23) and the Miramar Air Show (Oct. 12-14). 619.858.1545.

Victorian era meets ‘80s pop culture in this immersive installation and sound environment.

SAN DIEGO RESTAuRANT WEEK Sept. 16-21. More than 160 of San Diego’s best restaurants offer fixed price, three-course meals in this eighth annual event. Visit website for participating restaurants. sandiegorestaurantweek.com.

DOWNTOWN 1100 Kettner Blvd. 858 454 3541 www.mcasd.org

HAuNTED HOTEL Sept. 21-Oct. 31. (closed M-Tu but open nightly from Oct. 22-31). Not for the faint of heart, this spooky maze will have everyone screaming. 424 Market Street, Gaslamp Quarter, 619.231.0131. Map Q16 SCREAM ZONE Sept. 28-Oct. 14 (weekends only); Oct 17-Oct. 31 (nightly). Eerie attractions include the Haunted Hayride, Chamber of Chills and House of Horror. Del Mar Fairgrounds, 2260 Jimmy Durante Blvd., Del Mar, 858.755.1161. Map X22

Margaret Noble, artist book detail

San Diego Symphony

Great Concerts All Year Long! FAMILY POPS

HAuNTED TRAIL Sept. 28-Oct. 31. (closed M-Tu but open nightly from Oct. 22-31). No ordinary walk in the park, this mile-long scary trail features a Carnival of Carnage (not suitable for kids under 10). Balboa Park, 619.696.SCARE. Map O17 DISNEY ON ICE Oct. 10-14. Watch as 65 of Disney’s unforgettable characters from 18 stories come to life celebrating 100 years of magic. Valley View Casino Center, 3500 Sports Arena Blvd. 619.224.4171. Map J9 GHOST HuNTING TOuR Oct. 12-13, 19-20. Creepy ghost tours inside the Whaley House prove why it’s dubbed the most haunted house in America. 2476 San Diego Ave., 619.297.7511. Map N14 MONSTER BASH Oct. 27. 12th annual festive street party features live bands, DJs and a costume contest. 21 and over. Gaslamp Quarter, 619.233.5008. Map Q16 SAN DIEGO BEER WEEK Nov. 2-11. More than 300 citywide events including beer dinners, rare bottle tastings, cheese pairings and brewery tours celebrate S.D.’s internationally recognized craft beer culture. Various locations. sdbw.org. CIRQuE Du SOLEIL “DRALION” Nov. 14-18. The four elements that govern the natural order take on a human form in Cirque’s latest. Valley View Casino Center, 3500 Sports Arena Blvd., Midway District, 619.224.4171. Map J9

CLASSICAL

For Complete Season Information: CALL 619.235.0804 or VISIT sandiegosymphony.com

MOTHER GOOSE pARADE Nov. 18. The 66th annual parade offers free family fun to start the holiday season. Route begins on Main St. and Magnolia Ave., El Cajon, 619.444.8712. Map E4

Theater A HAMMER, A BELL, AND A SONG TO SING Nov. 3-Dec. 2. This musical devoted to the art of the

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Entertainment protest song reminds us that change is possible.  Lyceum Theatre, 79 Horton Plaza, downtown, 619.231.3586.  Map Q16 allegiance  Sept. 7-Oct. 21. A story of family, love and patriotism set during the Japanese-American internment of World War II, starring George Takei.  Old Globe Theatre, 1363 Old Globe Way, Balboa Park, 619.23.GLOBE.  Map Q16

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Around the World in 80 Days  Oct. 5-Nov. 18. In 1872, Phileas Fogg, with his wily servant Passepartout, sets out to win a bet that he can circle the globe in just 80 days. Jules Verne’s classic travel adventure comes to vivid life in this wild and exciting new production.  Lamb’s Players Theatre, 1142 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.437.0600.  Map L10

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as you like it  Through Sept. 30. Shakespeare’s comedy about flirtation, friendship and mistaken identity is a lighthearted look at the fickle nature of love. Part of the Old Globe’s Summer Shakespeare Festival.  Lowell Davies Festival Theatre at the Old Globe, 1363 Old Globe Way, Balboa Park, 619.23.GLOBE.  Map Q16 exit interview  Sept. 29-Oct. 21. A professor axed from a nameless university tries to answer some loaded questions from the university’s humble HR pawn in this smart comedy.  Lyceum Theatre, 79 Horton Plaza, downtown, 619.231.3586.  Map Q16 Glengarry Glen Ross  Sept. 18-Oct. 21. David Mamet’s scorching Pulitzer-winning play follows a group of desperate salesmen in a Chicago real estate office whose culture rewards the strong, punishes the weak and values success above all else.  Potiker Theatre at the La Jolla Playhouse, UCSD, 9500 Gilman Drive, La Jolla, 858.550.1010.  Map T20 Good people  Sept. 29-Oct. 28. David LindsayAbaire’s funny and insightful Tony-nominated Broadway hit explores whether or not the American Dream is still possible. Contains strong language.  White WhereSD_Mag_SafariPark_Fall2012.indd 1 Theatre at the Old Globe, 1363 Old Globe Way, Balboa Park, 619.23.GLOBE.  Map Q16 The Authority on Custom Jewelry

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“ Isn’t she worth it? ”

inherit the wind  Through Sept. 25. The Old Globe’s Shakespeare Festival’s lone non-Bard play is loosely based on the Scopes Monkey Trial, a taut legal drama about the age-old conflict between science and faith.  Lowell Davies Festival Theatre at the Old Globe, 1363 Old Globe Way, Balboa Park, 619.23.GLOBE.  Map Q16 Jekyll & hyde  Oct.2-7. After four years on Broadway and multiple worldwide tours, this dark and dangerous love story from Tony- and Grammy-nominated Frank Wildhorn returns in a stunning new production.  Broadway/San Diego, Civic Theatre, Third Ave. and B St., downtown, 619.570.1100.  Map Q16 Mistakes Were Made  Sept. 20-Oct. 21. Phil Johnson stars as Felix Artifex, a fast-talking B-list Broadway producer who gets in over his head when he takes on an epic about the French Revolution.  Cygnet Theatre in Old Town, 4040 Twiggs St., Old Town, 619.337.1525.  Map E3 peter pan  Nov. 13-18. Tony Award nominee Cathy Rigby takes flight in this all-new touring production of the J.M. Barrie classic.  Broadway/San Diego, Civic Theatre, Third Ave. and B St., downtown, 619.570.1100.  Map Q16

“ Every piece of Jewelry was design by someone. Precious few are design for someone” - Charles Koll

Pippin  Sept. 6-Oct. 14. A reimagined, innovative staging of a musical favorite. Pippin is a hip, tongue-incheek, anachronistic fairy tale that captivated Broadway audiences.  Diversionary Theatre, 4545 Park Blvd. #101, Unversity Heights, 619.220.0097.  Map M18 RICHARD III  Through Sept. 29. Shakespeare’s ruthless villain embarks on a bloody campaign to seize and keep the English crown in this Old Globe Summer Shakespeare Festival production.  Lowell Davies Festival Theatre at the Old Globe, 1363 Old Globe Way, Balboa Park, 619.23.GLOBE.  Map Q16

7007 Friars Road, Suite 691 t: 619.298.5655 f:619.298.5665 info@charleskollcom www.charleskoll.com

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Entertainment SEE HOW THEY RuN Through Sept. 23. Philip King’s hilarious British-wartime caper is filled with extraordinary characters, mistaken identities and surprise visitors. Lamb’s Players Theatre, 1142 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.437.0600. Map L10 THE uNDERpANTS Sept. 8-30. Comedian Steve Martin has reinvigorated Carl Sternheim’s hilarious 1910 farce about a man with an unusual problem: his wife’s underpants won’t stay on! North Coast Repertory Theatre, 987-D Lomas Santa Fe Drive, Solana Beach, 858.481.1055. Map X22 WHEN LAST WE FLEW Nov. 8-Dec. 9. Inspired by Tony Kushner’s Angels in America, this play offers a moving and often humorous look at life in small-town America from a contemporary teenage perspective. Diversionary Theatre, 4545 Park Blvd. #101, University Heights, 619.220.0097. Map M18 WORDS BY: IRA GERSHWIN AND THE GREAT AMERICAN SONGBOOK Oct. 20-Nov. 11. This worldpremiere musical offers insights into the private lives of the Gershwin brothers, set to some of the greatest songs ever written. North Coast Repertory Theatre, 987-D Lomas Santa Fe Drive, Solana Beach, 858.481.1055. Map X22 YOSHIMI BATTLES THE pINK ROBOTS Nov. 6-Dec. 16. Inspired by the whimsical, psychedelic music of The Flaming Lips, this world-premiere musical from Tony-winning director Des McAnuff reveals the triumph of love and optimism over the mystery of our own mortality. Mandell Weiss Forum at the La Jolla Playhouse, UCSD, 9500 Gilman Drive, La Jolla, 858.550.1010. Map T20 For day-of-show, half-price tickets, visit the Arts Tix booth in downtown San Diego at Horton Plaza, 619.497.5000, or at California Center for the Arts in Escondido, 360 N. Escondido Blvd., 800.988.4253, or visit www.sandiegoperforms.com.

Music + Dance ARTpOWER! Music, dance, art and film series at UCSD. Oct. 14: Fink. Various locations around UCSD campus. artpwr.com ATHENAEuM MuSIC AND ARTS LIBRARY Chamber Concert Series: Oct. 7: Odair Assad; Nov. 15: Nathan Gunn. 1008 Wall St., La Jolla Map W19 BALBOA THEATRE Oct. 14: Alfie Boe; Oct. 17: Jethro Tull’s Ian Anderson; Dec 1: Under The Streetlamp. 868 Fourth Ave., downtown, 619.570.1100. Map Q16 BIRCH AQuARIuM AT SCRIppS Green Flash Seaside Summer Concert Series. Live music on the plaza with ocean view at sunset. Sept. 19: Steve Poltz. 2300 Expedition Way, La Jolla, 858.534.FISH. Map R15 BIRCH NORTH pARK THEATRE Sept. 2: The Tallest Man On Earth; Sept. 28-30, Oct. 4-7, and 11-14: Footloose. 2891 University Ave., North Park, 619.239.8836. Map N18

Open daily 9-5 in La Jolla • 858-534-FISH • aquarium.ucsd.edu

CALIFORNIA CENTER FOR THE ARTS Saturday nights in Sept.: Cine en el Parque; Sept. 5: The Mar Dels; Sept. 22: Daniel Lessner, piano; Sept. 27-30: Little Mermaid Jr.; Oct. 3: Sublime Jazz; Oct. 6: Stephen Salters, baritone; Oct. 7: Mega Light Bollywood Music Program; Oct. 13: American Choral Classics; Oct. 20: US Air Force Band; Oct. 21: Amadeus in Concert; Nov. 7: Michael Sanchez Trio; Nov. 11: Nova Goes Hollywood; Nov. 30-Dec. 1: The Nutcracker. 340 N. Escondido Blvd., Escondido, 800.988.4253. Map B3 CRICKET WIRELESS AMpHITHEATER Sept. 7: Dave Matthews Band; Sept. 10: Linkin Park and Incubus; Sept. 14: Jack FM’s Big Show; Sept. 15: Rascal Flatts; Sept. 29: Jason Mraz; Oct. 4: Florence + The Machine. Call ahead for complete schedule. 2050 Entertainment Circle, Chula Vista, 619.671.3600. Map F4

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Entertainment fresh sound Bringing new music to San Diegans featuring electronic, experimental, contemporary, classical and improvised sound. Sept. 5: Dieter Moebius, Jay Lesser, Wobbly and Peter Conheim; Oct. 2: Ken Filiano and Anders Nilsson; Oct. 18: En echo: Miller Puckette, Juliana Snapper and Philippe Manoury; Nov. 30: Michael Dessen with Trio.  Space4Art, 325 15th St., East Village, 619.269.7230.  Map Q17

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Harrah’s Rincon Casino—Open Sky Theater  Sept. 7: Jeff Foxworthy; Sept. 9: BB King and Tedeschi Trucks Band; Sept. 15: Marco Antonio Solis; Sept. 23: Daryl Hall & John Oates. Call for complete schedule.  777 Harrah’s Rincon Way, Valley Center, 877.777.2457.  Map B4 Humphrey’s concerts by the bay  Sept. 6: Pink Martini; Sept. 10: Olivia Newton-John; Sept. 13: Doobie Brothers; Sept. 18: Roger Hodgson; Sept. 23: Tony Bennett; Sept. 25: Bonnie Raitt; Sept. 29: Crosby, Stills & Nash; Oct. 4: George Thorogood & The Destroyers.  2241 Shelter Island Drive, Shelter Island, 619.224.3577.  Map F4

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la jolla symphony and chorus  Nov. 3-4: Angel of Response: Steve Schick conducts a program featuring compositions by John Cage and Ludwig van Beethoven w/ appearance by guest artist Missy Mazzoli.  Mandeville Auditorium at UCSD, La Jolla Village Drive, La Jolla, 858.534.4637.  Map T20 open air theatre at sdsu  Sept. 30: The Shins/ Washed Out; Oct. 2: Furthur. Call for complete schedule.  5500 Campanile Drive, SDSU, 619.594.0429.  Map E3 orchestra nova  (formerly S.D. Chamber Orchestra). Oct. 20-22: Amadeus in Concert; Nov. 10-12: Charlie Chaplin silent film accompanied by a live orchestra. Various locations.  858.350.0290. rimac arena at ucsd  Call for complete schedule.  9500 Gilman Drive, La Jolla, 858.534.8569.  Map T20 SAN DIEGO CIVIC THEATER  Sept. 8: Mike Epps & Friends; Oct. 27-28: Dracula; Nov. 21: The Fresh Beat Band; Nov. 24: Straight No Chaser.  1100 Third Ave., downtown, 619.570.1100.  Map Q16 SAN DIEGO SYMPHONY SUMMER POPS  Sept. 1-2: Tchaikovsky Spectacular.  Embarcadero Marina Park South, Embarcadero, 619.235.0804.  Map Q14 SAN DIEGO SYMPHONY  Jacobs Masterworks: Oct. 5,7: Lang Lang Plays Beethoven’s Emperor; Jahja Ling, conductor; Lang Lang piano; Oct. 6: Opus 2012 Concert and Gala w/ Lang Lang and Jahja Ling; Oct. 12-14: Ohlsson (piano) Plays Tchaikovsky; Oct. 26-28: Brahms’ Fourth feat. Ray Chen, violin; Nov. 2-4: Mahler’s Fifth feat. Ralph Kirshbaum, cello; Nov. 16-18: Christof Perick, conductor; Jeff Thayer, violin; City Lights: Nov. 9, 10: A Night at the Cotton Club: Marvin Hamlisch, conductor; Eldar Djangirov, piano; Nikki Yanofski, vocals.  Copley Symphony Hall, 750 B St., downtown, 619.235.0804.  Map Q14  Chamber Music Series: Oct. 30: Ray Chen Plays Mendelssohn.  The Neurosciences Institute, 10640 John Jay Hopkins Drive, La Jolla, 619.235.0804.  Map S20 SPRECKELS ORGAN PAVILION  Su, 2–3 pm. Free concerts on the world’s largest outdoor pipe organ.  Balboa Park, 619.702.8138. Map O17 Spreckels theatre  Oct. 3: The Head and The Heart. Call for complete schedule.  121 Broadway, downtown, 800.745.3000.  Map Q16 TrollEy Dances  Sept. 29-30 and Oct. 6-7: Modern dance meets public transit on S.D.’s trolley lines. Site-specific performances by renowned choreographers. Begins at the Grantville trolley station and follows the Green Line into Santee. Tickets include all-day trolley pass: $15-$30; kids 5 and under free.  619.225.1803.  Map Q16

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Entertainment VALLEY VIEW CASINO CENTER (formerly San Diego sports arena)  Sept. 23: Red Hot Chili Peppers; Sept. 27: Disney Live!; Oct. 4: The Black Keys; Oct. 8: Peter Gabriel; Oct. 10-14: Disney on Ice; Oct. 20: Carrie Underwood; Oct. 24: Bob Dylan. Call for complete schedule.  3500 Sports Arena Blvd., Midway, 619.224.4171.  Map N13 viejas arena at sdsu  Call for complete schedule.  5500 Canyon Crest Drive, SDSU, 619.594.0429.  Map E3

Sports L.A. Lakers vs. Sacramento Kings  Oct. 25: Exhibition game between Los Angeles and Sacramento basketball teams.  Valley View Casino Center, 3500 Sports Arena Blvd., Midway, 619.224.4171.  Map N13 SAN DIEGO PADRES  Major League Baseball. Sept. 3-5: L.A. Dodgers; Sept. 7-9: Arizona Diamondbacks; Sept. 10-12: St. Louis Cardinals; Sept. 14-16: Colorado Rockies; Sept. 21-23: S.F. Giants.  Petco Park, 100 Park Blvd., East Village, 619.795.5000.  Map Q16

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POWAY RODEO  Sept. 28-29. 40th annual rodeo features bull riding, calf roping and more.  14336 Tierra Bonita Road, Poway, 866.776.7633.  Map D3

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BARONA VALLEY RANCH RESORT AND CASINO  More than 2,000 slot machines, 70+ table games, satellite wagering and an all-you-can-eat buffet. 6/16/10 4:58 PM 24 hours.  1932 Wildcat Canyon Road, Lakeside, Daily, 619.443.2300.  Map D4 CASINO PAUMA  Tropically themed complex with more than 35,000 square feet of gaming, 850 slots, 24 table games, poker parlor and non-smoking section. Daily, 24 hours.  777 Pauma Reservation Road, Pauma Valley, 760.891.7900.  Map A4 PALA RESORT AND CASINO  Features 2,250 state-of-the-art slots and video machines, 85 Vegasstyle gaming tables, eight restaurants and entertainment in two lounges.  11154 Hwy. 76, Pala, 760.510.5100.  Map A3 PECHANGA RESORT AND CASINO  Video machines, table games, lunch buffet and entertainment center ­featuring live concerts and ­professional boxing. Alcohol served. Daily, 24 hours.  45000 Pechanga Parkway, Temecula, 951.693.1819.  Map A3 HARRAH’S RINCON CASINO  Slots paradise. Daily, 24 hours.  777 Harrah’s Rincon Way, Valley Center, 760.751.3100.  Map B4 SYCUAN CASINO  Find high-stakes bingo, pai gow poker, slots and four restaurants at this East County gambling hall, plus a 500-seat theater. Daily, 24 hours.  5469 Casino Way, El Cajon, 619.445.6002.  Map D5 VALLEY VIEW CASINO  High-limit blackjack, 1,750 slots, steakhouse and 24-hour café, free valet parking and separate non-smoking gaming and bar area. Daily, 24 hours.  16300 Nyemii Pass Road, Valley Center, 760.291.5500.  Map B4

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Attractions + Museums Attractions BELMONT PARK  A beachfront landmark with the ­ istoric Giant Dipper roller coaster, Wave House, ­Liberty h Carousel, a family playland, SoCal’s largest indoor pool, arcades and more. Call for dates and hours.  3190 Mission Blvd., Mission Beach, 858.488.1549.  Map I8 BIRCH AQUARIUM AT SCRIPPS  Explore one of the U.S.’s largest oceanographic museums, and enjoy a ­spectacular view from the tidepool plaza. Open daily 9 am–5 pm. $14; seniors $10; kids 3-17 $9.50; children 2 and under free. Three-hour courtesy parking.  2300 ­Expedition Way, La Jolla, 858.534.3474.  Map U20 cabrillo NATIONAL MONUMENT  Exhibits, whale watching, tidepools, trails, the restored Old Point Loma Lighthouse and spectacular views. Daily 9 am–5 pm. $3-5.  1800 Cabrillo Memorial Drive, Point Loma, 619.557.5450.  Map L8 k1 speed SoCal’s first electric indoor kart racing center lets 20-horsepower electric karts roam 70,000 square feet of space; arcade games, too. 6212 Corte del Abeto, Carlsbad, 760.929.2225. Map U23 LEGOLAND  Find 50+ rides and shows and Sea Life Aquarium’s seven-foot-long Lego submarine. Also check out the recently opened waterpark complete with lazy river. Adults $75; kids 3–12 and seniors 60+ $65 (add $14/ticket for admission to aquarium or water park; add $20/ticket for admission to all three). Aquarium-only: adults $20, kids 3-12 $15. Parking $12–20. Call for hours.  1 Legoland Drive, Carlsbad, 760.918.5346.  Map U22 safari PARK  (formerly the Wild Animal Park). Take a safari adventure through the 1,800–acre wildlife preserve, home to herds of exotic animals roaming in vast enclosures resembling African and Asian plains. Safari packages start at $42 for adults; children 3–11 $32; kids 2 and under free. Cars $10–15. Daily 9-5 pm.  15500 San Pasqual Valley Road, Escondido, 760.747.8702.­Map C3 San diego BOTANIC GARDEN  One of the world’s most diverse plant collections. Daily 9 am–5 pm (till 8 pm Th). $12; seniors 60+ $8; kids 3-12 $6; kids 2 and under free. Parking $2.  230 Quail Gardens Drive, Encinitas, 760.436.3036.  Map V22

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SAN DIEGO ZOO  World-famous zoo has more than 4,000 rare and endangered animals in state–of–the–art environment. $42; kids 3–11 $32; kids 2 and under free. Free parking. Open daily 9 am-9 pm.  2920 Zoo Drive, Balboa Park, 619.231.1515.  Map O17

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SEAWORLD  The 189-acre adventure park features thousands of marine animals including killer whales plus fish, reptiles and birds. $73; kids 3–9 $65; kids 2 and under free. Parking $14-19. Open daily; call for hours and combo rates.  500 SeaWorld Drive, Mission Bay Park, 800.25.SHAMU.  Map I8 U.S. OLYMPIC TRAINING CENTER  One of only four OTCs in the U.S., this year-round facility features field hockey, archery, soccer, BMX facilities and more. Daily 9 am-5 pm. Guided tours Sa at 11 am. Free.  2800 Olympic Pkwy., Chula Vista, 619.656.1500.  Map F4

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bernardo winery  Founded in 1899 by Sicilian winemakers, this is the oldest continuously operating winery in SoCal. Also on-site: a restaurant, chocolatier and art galleries, including a glassblowing studio. Tastings daily.  13330 Paseo Del Verano N., Rancho Bernardo, 858.487.1866.  Map C4

CARRUTH CELLARS  Urban winery and tasting room makes wine from Northern California grapes; tastings W-Su.  320 S. Cedros Ave. #400, Solana Beach, 858.847.9463.  Map X22

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Attractions + Museums L.A. CETTO The largest winery in Baja’s scenic wine region, which produces 90 percent of Mexico’s wine. Open daily for tastings; also features olive oil, chocolates and gifts. KM 73.5 Tecate-Ensenada Highway, Valle de Guadalupe, Baja California, Mexico, lacetto.com. MENGHINI WINERY Boutique Julian winery produces just 4,000 cases of Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon annually. Tastings daily. 1150 Julian Orchards Drive, Julian, 760.765.2072. Map C6 ORFILA VINEYARDS Growing Syrah, Viognier, Muscat Canelli and more, this boutique winery produces about 10,000 cases of Rhone-style wines annually. 13455 San Pasqual Road, Escondido, 760.738.6500. Map C3

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PONTE FAMILY ESTATE WINERY This 300-acre vineyard grows mostly Cabernet, Merlot and Chardonnay, plus other Italian varieties; tasting room open daily. 35053 Rancho California Road, Temecula, 951.694.8855. Map A2 SOUTH COAST WINERY RESORT AND SPA This winner of the California State Golden Bear Winery of the Year Award produces some 65,000 cases annually. Tastings daily. 34843 Rancho California Road, Temecula, 951.587.9463. Map A2 THORNTON WINERY Medal-winning sparkling winery is housed in a vineyard-view chateau in Temecula. Tasting lounge open daily; tours on weekends. 32575 Rancho California Road, Temecula, 951.699.0099. Map A2

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WILSON CREEK WINERY AND VINEYARD Known for its almond champagne, this Tuscan-inspired estate also includes a restaurant and tasting room, both open daily. 35960 Rancho California Road, Temecula, 951.699.9463. Map A2 WITCH CREEK WINERY Two tasting rooms, including one in the heart of Carlsbad, offer samplings of Witch Creek’s full-bodied wines daily, each with a feline-inspired name. 2906 Carlsbad Blvd., Carlsbad, 760.765.2023, Map T22; 2000 Main St., Julian, 760.720.7499. Map C6

Museums CALIFORNIA SURF MUSEUM Collection of surfing artifacts and memorabilia, plus exhibits about surfing legends. Rare surfing collectibles in museum gift shop. Daily 10 am–4 pm, Th 10 am-8 pm. Adults $5; seniors/ military/students $3; kids under 12 free. 312 Pier View Way, Oceanside, 760.721.6876. Map S22 CENTRO CULTURAL DE LA RAZA Celebrates Mexican, Chicano and indigenous art and culture with vibrant murals, art exhibits and performances. Gallery open Tu–Su noon–4 pm. Suggested donation $5. 2125 Park Blvd., Balboa Park, 619.235.6135. Map P17 CORONADO MUSEUM OF HISTORY AND ART Galleries of historical memorabilia reveal a rich past. 10 am-5 pm (daily). Suggested donation $2–4. 1100 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.435.7242. Map L10 GEORGE W. AND ANNA GUNN MARSTON HOUSE Craftsman-style house designed by renowned architects William Hebbard and Irving Gill in 1905. Period furnishings, pottery and an Indian basketry collection. Open for tours F-M 10 am–5 pm. Adults $10; $4 kids 6-12; kids under 5 free. 3525 Seventh Ave., Balboa Park, 619.297.9327. Map O16 MARITIME MUSEUM Visit the 1863 barque Star of India (world’s oldest active ship), the 1898 steam ferryboat Berkeley, the 1904 steam yacht Medea, a Soviet-era submarine and the HMS Surprise, the Royal Navy frigate featured in the film Master and Commander. Daily 9 am–9 pm. $15; seniors/military/teens $11; kids 6-12 $8; children 5 and under free. The schooner Californian also offers half-day sailing trips ($31-42). 1492 N. Harbor Drive, Embarcadero, 619.234.9153. Map P14

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MuSEuM OF CONTEMpORARY ART SAN DIEGO Renowned for its vast collection and thoughtprovoking exhibits, this museum features post-1950s art spanning many genres and media. Both locations open Th–Tu 11 am–5 pm, third Th 11 am–7 pm. Closed W. $5-10 admission valid for 7 days; ages 25 and under free; free third Th 5-7 pm. 700 Prospect St., La Jolla, Map W19; 1001 and 1100 Kettner Blvd., downtown, 858.454.3541. Map Q15 MuSEuM OF MAKING MuSIC Vintage instruments, interactive audio and visual exhibits offer dynamic look into the history of American popular music. Tu–Su 10 am–5 pm. $5–8; kids 5 and under free. 5790 Armada Drive, Carlsbad, 760.438.5996. Map U23 MuSEuM OF pHOTOGRApHIC ARTS Collection includes contemporary photography, social documentary and photojournalism. Film screenings, too. Tu-Su 10 am–5 pm. $5–8; kids 12 and under free. Free second Tues. 1649 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.238.7559. Map O17 NEW CHILDREN’S MuSEuM Downtown’s newest museum, designed just for kids, encourages visitors to touch and interact with exhibits. M-Sa 10 am–4 pm (Th till 6 pm; closed W); Su noon-4 pm. $10; seniors/ military $5; children under 1 free. Free second Su. 200 W. Island Ave., downtown, 619.233.8792. Map Q16 OCEANSIDE MuSEuM OF ART Regional and international artists showcased in exhibits ranging from landscape painting to studio furniture, neon sculpture, art quilts and architectural glass. Tu–Sa 10 am–4 pm, Su 1-4 pm. $5–8 (students/military free). Free every Tuesday in 2012. 704 Pier View Way, Oceanside, 760.435.3720. Map S22

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MINGEI INTERNATIONAL MuSEuM Exhibits celebrate folk art. Tu–Su 10 am–4 pm. $5–8; children 5 and under free. 1439 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.239.0003. Map O17 MISSION SAN DIEGO DE ALCALÁ The first of 21 missions stretching north along the California coast, this one was established by Junípero Serra in 1769 on Presidio Hill and moved to this site in 1774. Daily mass in the chapel at 7 am and 5:30 pm and tools and artifacts on display. Visitors center open daily 9 am–4:45 pm. Adults $3; kids/seniors $2. 10818 San Diego Mission Road, Mission Valley, 619.281.8449. Map I12

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REuBEN H. FLEET SCIENCE CENTER Interactive science galleries invite visitors to explore the wonders of astronomy and physics. Giant-screen films run in the IMAX Dome Theater. M-Th 10 am–5 pm (open later during holiday breaks), F till 8 pm, Sa till 8 pm, Su till 6 pm. $9.75-11.75 (IMAX films extra); kids 2 and under free. 1875 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.238.1233. Map O17 SAN DIEGO AIR & SpACE MuSEuM Hot-air balloons, jets and historic aircraft from around the world. Daily 10 am–5:30 pm. $7-17.50 (How Things Fly exhibition admission is $12-24), kids 2 and under free. 2001 Pan American Plaza, Balboa Park, 619.234.8291. Map P17 SAN DIEGO HALL OF CHAMpIONS Three levels and 68,000 square feet of sports exhibits and interactive displays form the largest multi-sports museum in the U.S. Daily 10 am–4:30 pm. $6; seniors/military $4; kids 7-17 $3; kids 2 and under free. 2131 Pan American Plaza, Balboa Park, 619.234.2544. Map O17 SAN DIEGO MuSEuM OF ART Diverse collection includes Italian Renaissance and Spanish Baroque works, 19th–20th century American and European paintings and sculptures and a vast Asian collection. M–Sa 10 am–5 pm (closed W), Su noon-5 pm. $4.50–12; kids 6 and under free. 1450 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.232.7931. Map O17

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Shopping SAN DIEGO MUSEUM OF MAN Go on a journey of the human experience highlighting our physical and cultural development through permanent and changing exhibits. Daily 10 am–4:30 pm; $5–12.50; children 2 and under free. 1350 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.239.2001. Map O17 SAN DIEGO NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM Dinosaur displays, giant-screen films, photography exhibitions and more. Daily 10 am-5 pm. $11–17; children 2 and under free; free for active military first Tu. 1788 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.232.3821. Map O17

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STUART COLLECTION OF SCULPTURE Scattered across the UCSD campus, outdoor art collection includes talking and singing trees, Sun God and more. Free. Gilman and La Jolla Village drives, La Jolla, 858.534.2230. Map T20 USS MIDWAY The world’s largest floating naval-aviation museum has restored airplanes on the flight deck and interactive exhibits inside. Daily 10 am–5 pm. $10–18; military/kids 5 and under free. 910 N. Harbor Drive, Embarcadero, 619.544.9600. Map Q14

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CARLSBAD PREMIUM OUTLETS 90 outlet stores (Barneys New York to Polo Ralph Lauren to Banana Republic) in a nice outdoor setting. 5620 Paseo del Norte, Carlsbad, 760.804.9000. Map U22 DEL MAR PLAZA With more than 20 shops, including Banana Republic and Chico’s, and nine restaurants, this gorgeous tri-level boutique shopping plaza overlooks the Pacific Ocean. 1555 Camino del Mar, Del Mar, 858.792.1555. Map X22 FASHION VALLEY Beautiful bi-level, outdoor mall with 200+ shops like Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton and Tory Burch, five department stores, eight restaurants and 18-screen movie theater. 7007 Friars Road, Mission Valley, 619.688.9113. Map J10 THE FORUM AT CARLSBAD Elegant, tree-lined outdoor center with dozens of shops and restaurants, including Anthropologie and Sur La Table. 1905 Calle Barcelona, Carlsbad, 760.479.0166. Map V23 LAS AMERICAS PREMIUM OUTLETS Spanish Colonial-style outlet mall has 125+ shops. 4211 Camino de la Plaza, San Ysidro, 619.934.8400. Map F3 OTAY RANCH TOWN CENTER Shops at this South County mall include Apple and Sephora; there’s also outdoor fire pits, a dog park and a movie theater. 2015 Birch Road, Suite 500, Chula Vista, 619.656.9100. Map F3 SEAPORT VILLAGE Picturesque and charming outdoor plaza on the waterfront features 54 one-of-a-kind shops and galleries. 849 W. Harbor Drive, Embarcadero, 619.235.4014. Map R15 WESTFIELD HORTON PLAZA Multi-level outdoor mall featuring almost 200 shops, two restaurants and a food court. Anchored by Macy’s and Nordstrom. 324 Horton Plaza, downtown, 619.239.8180. Map Q16 WESTFIELD UTC Outdoor mall has more than 180 shops, five restaurants and a food court. Located near UCSD, the mall is anchored by Macy’s, Sears and Nordstrom. 4545 La Jolla Village Drive, Golden Triangle, 858.546.8858. Map T21

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207/FLOAT Rock ‘n’ roll glamour at the Hard Rock Hotel; two nightspots offer different vibes, from the street-level 207 lounge to the rooftop Float, featuring bottle service in poolside cabanas. Hard Rock Hotel, 207 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.702.3000. Map Q16

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Nightlife

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4TH & B Local favorite for live music, located downtown adjacent to the Gaslamp Quarter. Call for shows. 345 B St., downtown, 619.231.4343. Map Q16 ANTHOLOGY Chic three-story venue with amazing acoustics has live jazz, Latin, blues and rock. 1337 India St., Little Italy, 619.595.0300. Map Q15 BASIC Urban bar in a cool, renovated warehouse near the ballpark serves brick-oven pizzas. 410 10th Ave., East Village, 619.531.8869. Map Q17 BOOTLEGGER This spacious, light-filled spot features vintage Prohibition-inspired design accents plus pub grub, flat-screen TVs and more. 804 Market St., East Village, 619.794.BOOT. Map Q17 THE CASBAH Small but legendary rock club has hosted superstars like Nirvana, Smashing Pumpkins on their way up. Live music nightly. 2501 Kettner Blvd., Midtown, 619.232.4355. Map P15 DOuBLE DEuCE Country-rock bar features mechanical bull, DJs and dancing downstairs, stripper pole and interactive games in upstairs cocktail bar. 528 F St., Gaslamp, 619.450.6522. Map Q16 EAST VILLAGE TAVERN & BOWL Sports bar and bowling alley near Petco Park also has darts and pool. 950 Market St., East Village, 619.677.BOWL. Map R17 EL CAMINO Indoor/outdoor Mexican eatery and cantina features unique under-the-flight-path location. 2400 India St., Little Italy, 619.685.3881. Map P15 EL DORADO Hip downtown bar boasts retro-clad mixologists, couture cocktails and DJs. 1030 Broadway, East Village, 619.237.0550. Map Q17 THE FIELD Gaslamp Irish pub has excellent fish & chips, frothy pints and patio seating, plus live enter- Solace.indd 1 tainment select evenings. 544 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.232.9840. Map Q16

oll Rock n R

Dueling

FLuXX Ambiance-changing dance club from the design team behind Sidebar and Stingaree. 500 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.232.8100. Map Q16

Pianos

8/6/12 10:13 AM

HENRY’S puB Nightclub and restaurant serves California cuisine and showcases live entertainment nightly. 618 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.238.2389. Map Q16 HOuSE OF BLuES Live rock, blues and pop music, plus Sunday gospel brunch. Call for current shows. 1055 Fifth Ave., downtown, 619.299.2583. Map Q16 THE IVY Vegas-worthy club in the Andaz Hotel has sexy décor and rooftop bar with downtown views. 600 F St., Gaslamp 619.814.2055. Map I8 ONYX DJs, jazz and cocktails in bi-level Gaslamp nightpot. 852 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.235.6699. Map Q16 QuALITY SOCIAL Surprises at this “elevated dive bar” include live art, a vintage photo booth, private champagne parlor and an emphasis on scotch and rye. 789 Sixth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.501.7675. Map Q16 pATRICK’S II Live music, drinks and dancing. Blues, soul and rock bands nightly. No cover charge Su-Th. 428 F St., Gaslamp, 619.233.3077. Map Q16 THE SHOuT! HOuSE Dueling pianos played by impossible-to-stump musicians. Music ranges from classic rock to contemporary hits. 655 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.231.6700. Map Q16 SIDEBAR DJs, dancing and bottle service at this sexy, modern downtown lounge. 536 Market St., Gaslamp, 619.696.0946. Map Q16

LIVE DUELING PIANOS

PLAYING YOUR REQUESTS

GREAT FOOD FUN DRINKS

OPEN 7 NIGHTS A WEEK 655 4th Ave, Gaslamp Quarter

(619) 231-6700 www.THESHOUTHOUSE.com

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VERANT GROUP ESTABLISHMENTS · 600 5TH AVE SAN DIEGO ·

Nightlife

yes,

STINGAREE Tri-level dance club with rooftop cabanas. Ultra hip nightspot with several house specialty drinks. Dress code enforced. 454 Sixth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.544.9500. Map Q16

THE CHEF SPIKED THE FOOD.

drink up.

THE TIpSY CROW A neighborhood bar with three levels including pool tables, shuffleboard and trivia. 770 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.338.9300. Map Q16 STOuT Belly up to the bar and tip back a pint at this comfortable neighborhood pub. 1125 Sixth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.702.7933. Map Q16 THE TILTED KILT Scottish-themed pub near the ballpark has 30 plasma TVs and pretty barmaids serving up 24 international brews. 310 10th Ave., East Village, 619.814.5458. Map Q17 TOp OF THE HYATT Panoramic vistas from the West Coast’s tallest waterfront building. Take in the sunset or enjoy the lights of downtown. 1 Market Place, downtown, 619.232.1234. Map Q15 VIN DE SYRAH Alice in Wonderland-themed subterranean nightspot has eye-popping design, live music, wine and full bar. 901 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.234.4166. Map Q16 VOYEuR Punk-inspired Gaslamp bar features DJs, fashion events and on-site boutique. 755 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.756.7678. Map Q16

La Jolla .com

BARFLY Sports bar by day, DJ/dance club by night in the heart of the village. 909 Prospect St., 858.454.2323. Map W19 CAFE JApENGO Beautiful people to go along with the artistic sushi and Asian fusion fare. 8960 University Center Lane, UTC, 858.450.3355. Map T21 WHALING BAR Classic old-school haunt at La Valencia Hotel has an Old World seaside feeling and has played host to a who’s who of La Jolla society. 1132 Prospect St., 858.454.0771. Map W19

kev templi n e

stop in.

E X E CU

BRUNCH SAT-SUN

10am-3pm

TIVE CH EF

ton

North County

BELLY up North County’s premier live music venue. Voted best live music venue and lauded by Rolling Stone magazine. 143 S. Cedros Ave., Solana Beach, 858.481.8140. Map X22 COYOTE BAR & GRILL Hot live music and cool fire pits. Indoor/outdoor spot offers casual ambience and a view. 300 Carlsbad Village Drive, Carlsbad, 760.729.4695. Map T22 EN FuEGO Lively singles vibe and tasty Mexican food served up on this restaurant’s bustling patio. 1342 Camino del Mar, Del Mar, 858.792.6551. Map X22

LUNCH MON-FRI 11am

JIMMY O’S A favorite of sports fans and locals. Choose between the sports bar and the nightclub. 225 W. 15th St., Del Mar, 858.350.3735. Map X22

Beaches

710 BEACH CLuB Steps from the beach, this live music venue has everything from rock to hip-hop. 710 Garnet Ave., Pacific Beach, 858.483.7844. Map H8 BAR WEST This 5,000-foot upscale bar and lounge merges downtown chic with the casual attitude of the beach. 959 Hornblend St., Pacific Beach, 858.273.9378. Map H8 HuMpHREY’S BACKSTAGE LOuNGE Live jazz and blues along with dancing. A longtime favorite located right on the water. 2241 Shelter Island Drive, Shelter Island, 619.224.3577. Map K8

our other deliciously dirty secret. gingersgaslamp.com

JRDN “Jordan,” Tower 23’s hip bar, overlooks the ocean and has a variety of signature cocktails and a full raw bar. 4551 Ocean Blvd., Pacific Beach, 858.270.5736. Map K8

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Tours +Transport SOUTH BEACH BAR & GRILL Just steps away from the ocean, this bar offers light fare and drinks. 5059 Newport Ave., Ocean Beach, 619.226.4577. Map J8 TURQUOISE CAFE BAR EUROPA This Euro-style wine bar has tapas, cask wines and live music nightly. 873 Turquoise St., Pacific Beach, 858.488.4200. Map H8

San Diego Beer and Wine Tours

26%

Tours + Transport ADVENTURE R.I.B. RIDES Intimate dolphin, whalewatching and sightseeing excursions onboard a Navy SEAL Rigid Inflatable Boat (R.I.B.) with U.S. Coast Guard Captain Ken Manzoni. 619.808.2822. BALBOA PARK Free tours about history, architecture, horticulture and botanical gardens. Call for schedule. Visitors Center, House of Hospitality, 1549 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.239.0512. Map P17 BIPLANE, AIR COMBAT & WARBIRD ADVENTURES Among the airborne tours offered are gentle or thrilling coastal biplane rides for two, you-fly-it air combat, loops and rolls in a WWII warbird. Montgomery Field, 760.930.0903. Map U23 CITYPASS Discount combo packages for the San Diego Zoo, Safari Park, SeaWorld, Universal Studios Hollywood, Disneyland and Disney’s California Adventure. $279 (kids $239). 888.330.5008, citypass.com. CORONADO HISTORICAL ASSOCIATION TOURS History and architecture walking tours including the Hotel del Coronado. Reservations required. 1100 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.437.8788. Map L11

4 famous attractions

UNIQUE! GREEN! FUN! SDbeerwine.com 858-551-5115 San Diego’s Best Beer, Wine and Food! • Train Tours • Chauffeured Tours • Walking Tours • Beer/Wine Tasting Dinner Parties • Grape Stomp Fun Ask about our Custom Brewery and Winery Adventures!

Perfect for bridal, IDEAL FOR: bachelor(ette), birthday, anniversary birthdays, & corporate celebrations.

3-Day Park Hopper® to Disneyland® Park and Disney California Adventure® Park

anniversaries & corporate events.

Gift certificates available.

CORONADO TOURING Walking tour around the historic Hotel del Coronado and neighborhood. Tu, Th and Sa at 11 am. $12; children 3 and under free. Meet at Glorietta Bay Inn, 1630 Glorietta Blvd., Coronado, SD Beer & Wine_FA12v2.indd 1 619.435.5993. Map L11

8/3/12 12:17 PM

CORPORATE HELICOPTERS Great views of La Jolla and downtown from the comfort of a private helicopter. Montgomery Field, 800.345.6737. Map H11 DESTINATION TEMECULA Door-to-door excursions to Temecula Wine Country, including wine tastings, complimentary wine glass, lunch and free time in Old Town Temecula. 28475 Old Town Front St., Temecula, 800.584.8162. Map A2

Universal Studios HollywoodSM

EXECUCAR Premier luxury sedan and SUV service, flat rates, group services and frequent-flier points and miles with select airlines. 123 Camino de la Reina #200, Mission Valley, 800.410.4444. Map M16 FLAGSHIP CRUISES AND EVENTS Daily narrated tours of San Diego Bay plus brunch and dinner cruises, water taxi and more. 1050 N. Harbor Drive, Embarcadero, 800.442.7847. Map Q14 GASLAMP QUARTER HISTORICAL FOUNDATION Two-hour walking tour of the Gaslamp, Sa 11 am. $15. 410 Island Ave., Gaslamp, 619.233.4692. Map R1 GASLAMP SEGWAY Guided segway tours of historic neighborhoods including La Jolla and Coronado. Reservations required. 308 G St., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.239.2111. Map R16 HORNBLOWER CRUISES Daily narrated tours of San Diego Bay, plus dinner cruises, yacht charters, whale watching, weddings and events. 1066 N. Harbor Drive, Broadway Pier, Embarcadero, 619.686.8700. Map Q4 LA JOLLA KAYAK Cave and snorkel tours, bike and kayak rentals, whale-watching excursions and more. 2199 Avenida de la Playa, La Jolla Shores, 858.459.1114. Map V20

SeaWorld® San Diego

Buy at these attractions - Good for 14 days - Skip most ticket lines ONLY Ages 3-9

279 $239

$

Connect with CityPASS

(888) 330-5008 or citypass.com

Pricing and programs are subject to change.

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Tours +Transport LIMO KINGS Travel in style with luxurious limousine service. Call for reservations. 2871 Madison Ave., University Heights, 619.261.6343. Map I12 MAGICAL ADVENTuRES Offering hot air balloon flights over Del Mar & Temecula Valley Wine Country. 866.ENJOY.US. OLD TOWN TROLLEY TOuRS OF SAN DIEGO Narrated sightseeing tour explores San Diego and Coronado via trolley or “SEAL” (sea and land vehicle). On-and-off boarding privileges. Call for nearest pickup point and reservations. 619.298.8687. ORION SAILING CHARTERS Offering daily cruises on San Diego Bay. Charters are also available on classic 1934 sailing vessel. Sheraton Harbor Island East, 1380 Harbor Island Drive, 619.574.7504. Map P13 SAIL SAN DIEGO Enjoy San Diego Bay on afternoon and sunset sails. Snacks, drinks included. Customized accommodations available. 2051 Shelter Island Drive, Shelter Island, 619.297.7426. Map K9 SAN DIEGO BEER AND WINE TOuRS Guided winery and brewery tours, plus food-pairing walking tours. 858.551.5115. SAN DIEGO CHINESE HISTORICAL SOCIETY Walking tour of the Asian Pacific Historic District. Second Tu-Sa 10:30 am, Sun noon. Reservations required. $2; children under 12 free. Chinese Historical Museum, 404 Third Ave., downtown, 619.338.9888. Map R16 SAN DIEGO SCENIC TOuRS Daily half-day and full-day tours of attractions in San Diego and Mexico, including the Agua Caliente Racetrack in Tijuana. 858.273.8687. SEAL TOuR This unique amphibious tour explores San Diego Bay and its environs. Departs Th-M from Seaport Village. 619.298.8687. Map Q15 SKYSuRFER HOT AIR BALLOON COMpANY 40-60 minute hot-air balloon tours (with champagne) over Del Mar and Temecula. 2658 Del Mar Heights Road #198, Del Mar, 858.481.6800. Map I8 SO DIEGO TOuRS Culinary, nightlife and bike/walk sightseeing tours geared toward active visitors. 345 Sixth Ave., East Village, 619.233.8687. Map Q17 Sup CORONADO Group and private lessons in the new sport of stand-up paddleboarding, plus ocean and bay tours. Various Coronado locations, 619.888.7686. SupER SHuTTLE Runs to and from the airport 24 hours a day. All major cards. Individuals, groups and charters welcome. Earn frequent-flier points and miles with select airlines. 800.BLUE.VAN. SKYY LIMOuSINE Upscale limousine and sedan service for the savvy traveler. Call for reservations. 1310 K St., Gaslamp, 619.239.SKYY. Map R17 uRBAN SAFARIS Weekend walkabouts of San Diego neighborhoods (or by appointment). 619.944.9255. WHERE YOu WANT TO BE TOuRS Scavenger hunt explores downtown S.D. Walk and bike tours also available. 619.917.6037. XpLORE OFFSHORE Personalized ocean-rafting on a Navy SEAL-style boat: high-speed sightseeing, snorkeling and evening cocktails on the waterfront. 858.456.1636.

where?

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Maps  san diego county 1

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Maps  downtown + little italy + uptown

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30 things we love San Diego

1

The kid-friendly sweets and adult-friendly cocktails at Hillcrest’s new D Bar. p. 8 Browsing the handmadein-Mexico jewelry at Këo in Coronado. p. 31 Being served fish ‘n’ chips tacos by a food-truck chef who used to cook for the Queen of England at God Save the Cuisine. p. 50 Taking in a rock show at the Belly Up Tavern in Solana Beach. p. 73 Golfing the same greens as Jack Nicklaus and Phil Mickelson at La Costa Resort. p. 46 Braving the cask-strength bourbon and 250 other whiskeys at North Park’s Seven Grand. p. 6 The fact that the awesomesounding Flaming Lips musical Yoshimi Battles the Pink Robots, will get its world premiere here, at the La Jolla Playhouse. p. 14

where in the world

15

10

24

13

Espressos and after-dinner gelato in Little Italy. p. 27 Tailgating before a San Diego Chargers game at Qualcomm Stadium. p. 67 Gearing up for San Diego Beer Week by sampling all the taps at Blind Lady Ale House. p. 10 Catching a flick at the recently renovated Vintage Village Theatre (820 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.437.6161). Chuao Chocolatier’s tasty experiments in sweet-and-savory chocolate bars (mmmm, bacon!). p. 8

These feminine, professional shoes from the new Ann Taylor concept store at Fashion Valley Mall. p. 71 Sampling hard-to-find beers from all over the world at Bottlecraft (2161 India St., Little Italy, 619.487.9493). Watching this military town flex its patriotic muscles at Fleet Week. p. 5 The up-and-coming and veteran comics that perform at the Gaslamp’s new American Comedy Co. p. 62 The fall “Mr. Turk” line from fashion maven Trina Turk. 12

Prepping for a big night out with a blowout at Drybar (12857 El Camino Real, Del Mar, 858.771.0820).

Ricotta and mozzrella cheese-making classes at Venissimo (various locations, venissimo.com).

Getting lost in the stacks at the classic D.G. Wills bookshop (7812 Girard Ave., 858.454.0347).

Correctly guessing Vagabond’s weekly riddle and winning a dessert (2310 30th St., South Park, 619.255.1035).

WHERE is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com UNITED STATES Alaska, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Denver, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul,

19 Driving east for cider and pie during the Julian Fall Apple Harvest. p. 62 The Cindy Sherman portraits in Behold, America! p. 40 Wandering through the cactus wonderland that is Balboa Park’s Desert Garden. p. 40 Picnic-prepping at La Jolla’s Ariccia Italian Market. p. 29 Scotch cocktails at Jsix. p. 49 Seeing the Iron Maiden up-close at the Museum of Man. p. 14 Having lots of dining options when gluten-free guests come to visit. p. 20 Scoping out local designers at Fashion Week San Diego. p. 62 Autumn at the beach: summer weather without the summer crowds.

New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

80 WHERESD.COM FALL 2012

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!

3

©2012 kitchen 1540 at l’auberge

©2012 kitchen 1540 at l’auberge

1:13 PM PM 2 1:13

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COME COMEPLAY. PLAY. Described byby our new Executive Chef Scott Thomas Dolbee Described our new Executive Chef Scott Thomas Dolbee asas “playful, whimsical and modern,” the new lunch and dinner “playful, whimsical and modern,” the new lunch and dinner menus mark the next chapter in in the evolution of of KITCHEN 1540. menus mark the next chapter the evolution KITCHEN 1540. CoMplIMeNtary valet parKINg. CoMplIMeNtary valet parKINg. MeNtIoN tHIs adad for a CoMplIMeNtary dessert (oNe per table). MeNtIoN tHIs for a CoMplIMeNtary dessert (oNe per table).

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call forfor reservations 858.793.6460. call reservations 858.793.6460.

8/6/12 4:034:03 8/29/12 1:30 PM PM 8/6/12


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