Where Los Angeles, November 2012

NOVEMBER 2012 WHERELA.COM

Los Angeles

®

[ The Nightlife Issue ]

Cocktail Confidential SHHH! 12 HIDDEN NIGHTSPOTS THAT ONLY INSIDERS KNOW

➻

47 AM

Catch Up

Club king Brent Bolthouse's latest venture

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Chill

The Phoenix, Sassafras and other hot spots

Check Out

Space shuttle Endeavour, AFI Fest and more

Chow Down

Matthew Kenney's and Gordon Ramsay's new eateries

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T H E S E A RC H F O R P E R F E C T I O N : The Story Behind Printmaking Over 50 Unique Working Proofs, Bon à Tirers, and Definitive Works on Paper by PICASSO, CHAGALL and MIRÓ

Portrait de Famille Ingresque. I, 1962. Pablo Picasso (1881-1973). Black linocut proof on pink paper.

November 17th through December 16th, 2012

View the full exhibition online at www.galeriemichael.com

Featuring Working Proofs, Bon à Tirers, and Definitive Works on Paper G AbyLPICASSO, E R I ECHAGALL M IandC MIRÓ HAEL Building Museum Quality Collections One Work at a Time

224 North Via Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, CA 90210 T : 3 1 0 . 2 7 3 . November 3 3 7 7 w w17th w . g athrough l e r i e mDecember i c h a e l . c o16th, m 2012 F: 310.273.0879 O l dOver M a s t e50 r s Works | M o d e ron n MView a s t e r as s | well 1 9 t h as C e our n t u r Permanent y P a i n t i n g | Collection Barbizon School

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THE NIGHTLIFE ISSUE NOVEMBER

where Los Angeles 11.12 the guide 66 DINING

Restaurants by cuisine and neighborhood

88 ENTERTAINMENT

Special events, sports and performing arts

90 ATTRACTIONS + MUSEUMS Sights, parks, studio tours and exhibitions

99 SHOPPING

The best in retail destinations

101 NIGHTLIFE

Hottest clubs, lounges and bars

104 TOURS + TRANSPORT Getting out, getting around

107 MAPS

Navigate the county

whereabouts

20

Sayers Club in Hollywood

where now

features

12 Dining Raw talent at M.A.K.E. Gordon Ramsay’s new gastropub Mastro’s on another level

20 Cocktail Confidential Neospeakeasies, reservation-only drinking dens, hidden dance clubs— the hottest L.A. nightspots have an air of secrecy. BY KATIE McCARTHY

14 Nightlife Southern charm at Sassafras The Phoenix rises 16 Attractions Endeavour lands in L.A. Swanky cinemas

62 It’s Personal Some of the hottest chefs have left their posts at established restaurants to cook at their own more personal dining concepts. BY ROGER GRODY

32 36 40 44 48 52 56 58

Beverly Hills Santa Monica West Hollywood Hollywood Downtown Pasadena The Valley South Bay

ALSO INSIDE 8 11 18 112

A NOTE FROM THE EDITOR HOT DATES AFI Fest in Hollywood Q+A Brent Bolthouse 30 THINGS WE LOVE

ON THE COVER Cocktails at Sayers Club in Hollywood.

See the feature on page 20.

CONNECT WITH US ONLINE Get the buzz on the go! Find hundreds of L.A. destinations with the Where USA iPhone app, available in the App Store.

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where M AG A Z INE

On the Web: WhereLA.com

ancient wisdom in a modern world

november 17, 2012 – february 24, 2013

PUBLISHER Jeff Levy EDITOR Katie McCarthy ART DIRECTOR Carol Wakano MARKETING DIRECTOR

Audrey Nimura

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION ARTIST

Heidi Schwindt

Ryan Furuya

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

Leah Bigelow, Suzanne Ennis EDITOR IN CHIEF Benjamin Epstein CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Riley Carter, Roger Grody, Jessica Radloff, Libby Slate CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Dale Berman, Amy K. Fellows, Sarah Hadley, Bjarne G. Jensen, Mark Lipski, Monica Nouwens, Edwin Santiago, Ashok Sinha, Christopher Ian Smith, Ian White ACCOUNT MANAGERS

Krishna Gil, Sara Kemp, Mali Mochow, Kerry Brewer, April Driggers, Heather Howard-Heintz, Joanna McLean SENIOR CIRCULATION & SPECIAL EVENTS MANAGER

Christine Noriega

PRODUCTION MANAGER Dawn Kiko Cheng INTERIM PRODUCTION MANAGER Beth Moline WEB EDITOR Christina Xenos ADMINISTRATION

Brianna Dotson, Jordan Fraser, Leanne Killian, Sarah Trainor

© Steve McCurry

no strangers is a group show about the wonder of culture and the plight of indigenous people around the world. The exhibit poses a fundamental question: What does it mean to be human and alive?

The no strangers exhibit is guest curated by esteemed anthropologist, author and photographer Wade Davis. It features an original short documentary film including interviews with photographers Carol Beckwith & Angela Fisher, Wade Davis, Chris Johns, Lynn Johnson, Steve McCurry, Randy Olson, Chris Rainier, Hamid Sardar and more.

VICE PRESIDENT OF NATIONAL SALES Rick Mollineaux 202.463.4550 WEST COAST NATIONAL SALES Tiffany Reinhold 714.813.6600 DIRECTOR OF NATIONAL DIGITAL SALES Bridget Cody 706.821.6663 HONORARY PRESIDENT

Ted Levy

where Los Angeles

3679 Motor Ave., Suite 300 Los Angeles, California 90034 Phone: 310.280.2880 Fax: 310.280.2890 EMAIL Advertising JLevy@WhereLA.com Editorial Katie.McCarthy@WhereLA.com Art Art@WhereLA.com Production Ads@WhereLA.com Website Christina.Xenos@WhereLA.com Circulation Christine.Noriega@WhereLA.com

HOURS Wednesday – Friday: 11 am – 6 pm Saturday: 11 am – 7:30 pm Sunday: 11 am – 6 pm IRIS Nights Lectures Thursday nights 6:30 - 8:00 pm

LOCATION 2000 Avenue of the Stars Los Angeles, CA 90067 CONTACT 213.403.3000

The Space for Photography will be closed November 1 through November 16 while we prepare for no strangers.

Admission is free.

annenbergspaceforphotography.org

Plan for your next visit to Los Angeles.

Subscribe to where: single copy $4, 12 issues $36.

Contact: Christine Noriega. Phone: 310.280.2880 Email: Christine.Noriega@WhereLA.com © 2012 Southern California Media Group. All rights reserved.

Published by Southern California Media Group. where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions.

All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications.

Printed in the United States Circulation audited by Audit Bureau of Circulations where Los Angeles magazine is pleased to be a member of: Greater Los Angeles Convention and Visitors Bureau, Santa Monica Area Chamber of Commerce, California Restaurant Association, CalTIA, Beverly Hills Chamber of Commerce, Los Angeles Concierge Association.

A MAGGIE AWARD-WINNING PUBLICATION BEST CONSUMER VISITOR’S GUIDE

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Welcome

WITH AN

A note from the editor

STIRRED, NOT SHAKEN There’s more than one way to shake a cocktail. Yes, the ol’ up-down, over-the-shoulder shake is so yesterday, according to Rob Harpest, who spearheads the mixology program at Wolfgang Puck at the Hotel Bel-Air. Harpest’s team just started offering mixology classes at the restaurant, and I was among the first to sign up. First and foremost: Roll, don’t shake.

Harpest and his team say that their cocktail-mixing method—more of a wrist-rolling action—yields fewer ice chips in the drink while still cooling it significantly. Other tips? Martinis should be stirred, not shaken. (Bond was a fool.) Any drink that’s pure alcohol should be stirred, while mixed drinks with non-alcoholic ingredients ought to be shaken. And don’t mess around with piddly little ice cubes; Harpest suggests hand-chipping a single chunk of ice, which won’t dilute your drink as quickly. Then came time to test our teacher’s handiwork. Monroe’s Passion was a sweet-and-spicy pleasure

SUNSET STRIP SUNSET & LA CIENEGA WEST HOLLYWOOD 323-650-0475

of passion fruit juice mingling with rum and a dash of chili syrup. Show Me Love carried on the tropical theme with lychee juice, vodka and elderflower liqueur. My favorite was the Duke of Earl, with Earl Grey tea-infused gin, lemon juice, simple syrup and egg-white froth. It’s been a few weeks

VEGAS STRIP FASHION SHOW LAS VEGAS 702-632-0848

since the class, and suffice it to say my cocktail-shaking arm isn’t looking

www.bootstaronline.com

mixology class yourself, and see the feature Cocktail Confidential on page

And for those days when I don’t have time to hand-chip my ice or infuse my gin, I’m off to Bel-Air. Call the restaurant (310.909.1644) to take a 20 for more great watering holes to hit while in L.A. —KATIE McCARTHY

EDWIN SANTIAGO

any more toned, but at least I have a few more tricks up my sleeve.

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CoME SkatE wIth uS! ice at santa monica NOVEMBER 2, 2012—JANUARY 21, 2013

You’re invited to join the fun as we celebrate ICE at Santa Monica, Downtown Santa Monica’s premier outdoor skating rink.

1324 5th Street, Santa Monica, CA | Corner of 5th St. and Arizona Ave.

Admission and Skate Rental: $12

ICEatSantaMonica.com

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3617 Exposition Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90016

9646 Brighton Way Beverly Hills CA 310 859 1131 15210 N. Scottsdale Road, #160 Scottsdale AZ 480 922 9215

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What’s sizzling in seconds flat

Hot Dates 11.12 Anthony Hopkins in Hitchcock, opening film of AfI fest in Hollywood

THROUGH NOV. 4 DRALION More than 8 million people worldwide have witnessed Cirque du Soleil’s Eastern philosophy–influenced spectacular, which blends ancient Chinese circus traditions and Cirque’s avant-garde style. Join the crowd when the touring production visits Long Beach Arena for a limited engagement. p. 88 OPENING NOV. 1 STANLEY KUBRICK The Los Angeles County Museum of Art explores the intersection of art and film in its retrospective of filmmaker Stanley Kubrick’s extraordinary oeuvre. The comprehensive exhibition features everything from the Dr. Strangelove and 2001: A Space Odyssey producer/ director’s early photos for Look magazine to film props to his unfinished works. p. 98 OPENING NOV. 2 ICE AT SANTA MONICA Downtown Santa Monica turns winter wonderland with the arrival of the popular Santa Monica skating rink, back for its sixth year. The outdoor venue offers skate rentals, lockers, party packages, a snack bar and even a minirink for children under 7. p. 88 NOV. 16 LAKERS VS. SUNS The first matchup between the Los Angeles Lakers and the Phoenix Suns at the Staples Center is one of the season’s most hotly anticipated games. Watch as the rebuilding Suns try to pull of a win against their former teammate, new Laker Steve Nash. p. 90

NOV. 1–8

Sneak Peek Where better than AFI Fest 2012, held at multiple venues in the heart of Hollywood, to catch the buzzed-about films of today en route to becoming the Oscar winners of tomorrow? Those who attended the screening for The Artist at last year’s festival, for which Pedro Almodóvar served as guest artistic director, might argue nowhere. Celebrating its 26th year as a program of the American Film Institute, AFI Fest brings together established and emerging filmmakers from around the world to present their work to movie-loving audiences and the entertainment community. The world premiere of Hitchcock, starring Anthony Hopkins in the role of director/producer Alfred Hitchcock, opens the festival.

The closing-night film is Steven Spielberg’s Lincoln, featuring Daniel Day-Lewis as America’s 16th president. Screenings are free. p. 88 NEARBY Ogle silver-screen stars in wax at Madame Tussauds Hollywood (p. 82). Feast on fresh oysters and softshell crab at The Hungry Cat (p. 77) or wood-burned flatbreads at Cleo (p. 74). Party at the library-styled Hemingways (323.469.0040). Don’t forget to take home a souvenir from the shops at Hollywood & Highland Center (p. 100).

Y

OPENING NOV. 17 NO STRANGERS: ANCIENT WISDOM IN A MODERN WORLD What does it mean to be alive? A group show at the Annenberg Space for Photography in Century City poses this question as it regards the plight of indigenous peoples worldwide. The exhibit features images from 24 photographers, plus a short documentary. p. 96 OPENING NOV. 24 A CHRISTMAS CAROL: TWIST YOUR DICKENS! At Kirk Douglas Theatre in Culver City, legendary sketch comedy and improv theater the Second City, whose alums include Tina Fey and Steve Carell, collaborates with Center Theatre Group to give an irreverent twist to Dickens’s classic holiday tale.

Expect drop-in guests and general hilarity. p. 88 OPENING NOV. 30 L.A. AUTO SHOW Automakers rev up car buyers with their latest and greatest offerings at this annual show, held at the L.A. Convention Center downtown. Ticketholders can check out more than 1,000 car makes and models, including more than 40 debuts, plus cutting-edge race cars and alternative fuel vehicles. p. 88 Here for THe weekend? Go to WhereLA.com for our Weekend Roundup, where you can get the lowdown on the coolest festivals, performing arts events, dining promotions and more.

In 1917, two years before the 18th amendment was passed by the federal government and Prohibition began, Los Angeles citizens voted for the city to be declared a “dry town.”

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where now Los Angeles

The best in dining, nightlife and attractions

Âť DINING

Some Like It Raw M.A.k.e., best-selling author and trail-blazing raw-food chef Matthew Kenney’s new dining destination in Santa Monica Place’s the Market, celebrates Southern California produce in cutting-edge, plant-based dishes, all prepared at below 105 degrees Fahrenheit to preserve essential nutrients and enzymes. The ever-changing lunch and dinner menus may include entrees such as California kale salad, composed with blood orange, sun-dried olives, wild dulse and spiced almonds; kimchee dumplings accented with sesame foam; and heirloom tomato lasagna, layered with pistachio pesto, red pepper marinara and pine nut ricotta. Dishes are designed to be shared and paired with biodynamic wines, house-made cocktails and juices. Grab a front-row seat at the tasting bar, where chefs create multicourse menus showcasing dishes in development. (Pictured: rainbow carrot salad.) 395 Santa Monica Place, Santa Monica, 310.394.7046

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Gordon Ramsay’s the Fat Cow at the Grove

GORDON RAMSAY HAS A COW For his new restaurant at the Grove, The Fat Cow, acclaimed celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay envisioned a neighborhood gathering spot serving upscale comfort food in a relaxing atmosphere. That vision turned reality with the help of AK Design network, which designed the vintage-y, warm space, and local farms and purveyors including the adjacent Farmers Market, which provide the menu’s seasonal ingredients and fresh produce.

Now, diners can gather around the communal tables to feast on Ramsay’s lobster mac and cheese and peppercrusted wood-roasted long rib, paired with a distinctive cocktail or local brew, and topped off with an ice cream sundae or another retro dessert from the restaurant’s Moo Bar. 189 The Grove Drive, L.A., 323.965.1020

Prime Time It’s hard to top a night out at Mastro’s in Beverly Hills—that is, until you head upstairs to the swanky establishment’s airy 5,221-square-foot “cosmopolitan oasis,” The Penthouse at Mastro’s Steakhouse. In this sophisticated new dining and lounge space, located on the building’s third floor, guests soak in the atmosphere at white-linen-covered dining tables indoors or en plein air on the terrace, sipping premium hand-crafted cocktails such as the Oaxacan Monk,

served on a hand-cut ice block, or selections from the bar’s elaborate sake and champagne lists. On the menu: the generous signature cuts and iced seafood towers for which Mastro’s is renowned, plus sushi selections developed exclusively for the Penthouse by chef Angel Carbajal of award-winning Nick-San Restaurant in Cabo San Lucas.

(Marinated albacore and black truffles or jalapeño tuna sashimi, anyone?) A DJ keeps the mood light and lively. p. 79

Clear lobster roll from the Penthouse at Mastro’s Steakhouse in Beverly Hills

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Angeles NIGHTLIFE

Pimm’s Cup (left) and Apple Moonshine Crusta at Sassafras in Hollywood

If you’re hankering for a little Southern gentility and a tasty libation, the newest spot from the 1933 Group (of Thirsty Crow and Bigfoot Lodge fame), Sassafras, is just your saloon. Here, a genuine disassembled Savannah townhouse has been painstakingly reconstructed in Hollywood, festooned with moss and bedecked with vintage Southern touches, from a giant stuffed bear to cozy armchairs flanking a real fireplace.

Sidle up to the restored antique bar to try an Apple Moonshine Crusta (house-infused apple-cinnamon moonshine, brown sugar and lemon served in a cinnamon-sugarcrusted glass) or a Toasted Pecan Julep, featuring house-made toasted pecan liquor. Pair your libation with a plate of grits and shrimp, settle in, and enjoy a live music playing—you guessed it—Southern tunes from a balcony above. 1233 Vine St., Hollywood, 323.467.2800

TOP, KRISLYN KOMAROV

Southern Hospitality

GETTING CRAFTY With The Phoenix, L.A. restaurant and nightlife mover-and-shaker Adolfo Suaya has teamed up with the Goat Group (the Surly Goat, Little Bear), and Dolce Group partner Lonnie Moore to create a weathered and warm watering hole amid La Cienega’s glossy Restaurant Row. Certified cicerone (beer sommelier) Ryan Sweeney carefully selected the Phoenix’s impressive lineup of craft beers, and the cocktail specialties include recognizable classics such as the Sidecar and Old Fashioned. The food menu is stripped down to one reasonably priced crowd-pleaser—steak frites. Pool tables, darts, shuffleboard tables and a stage set for live music or impromptu karaoke encourage conviviality, with fireplaces and industrial stools amping up the cozy, casual feel. The bar’s name may conjure a bird taking flight from the ashes, but we see the Phoenix as decidedly, and refreshingly, down-to-earth. 14 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.289.5925

The Phoenix in Beverly Hills

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WHERE NOW Los

Angeles

NASA space shuttle Endeavour atop the Boeing 747 shuttle, in transit to Los Angeles

» ATTRACTIONS Endeavour Comes Home Two decades after its inaugural flight, NASA space shuttle Endeavour, piggybacked atop a special Boeing 747, touched down at Los Angeles International Airport in September. The momentous landing was the end of one era for Endeavour and the beginning of another—this time, as an attraction and teaching tool at the California Science Center in Exposition Park. Visit Endeavour at the Center’s Samuel Oschin Space Shuttle Endeavour Display Pavilion while its permanent home, the Samuel Oschin Air and Space Center, is being built. But first, check out the companion exhibit Endeavour: The California Story to learn about the orbiter, its ties to California and its fascinating legacy in space. p. 96

FILMS WITH BENEFITS The concept is genius, really: Elevate the traditional (read: woefully lacking) moviegoing experience with comfortable reserved seating, bar service and fine dining right in the theater. Experience the revolution at two venues: Cinépolis Luxury Cinemas (180 Promenade Way, Westlake Village, 805.413.8838) and Sundance Sunset Cinema (8000 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.654.2217). At Cinépolis, which features eight state-of-the-art digital

auditoriums, you can socialize in the loungestyle lobby or patio, complete with full dining and bar service, and summon a server at the touch of a button from your leather recliner inside the theater. Sundance Sunset, which shows the independent films for which Sundance Film Festival is renowned, offers five screens, reserved stadium seats with tables, a snack, beer and wine bar, and lounge and patio space. Sure beats squeaky seats and smuggled-in snacks.

TOP, NASA/JIM ROSS

Cinépolis Luxury Cinemas in Westlake Village

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12TH STREE • AT PIECE

WHERE NOW Los

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Angeles

• ESCAPE B

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JENNIFER Z

You moved to L.A. from Joshua Tree. How did your lifestyle change?

I came to L.A. to get sober and I have stayed sober. That’s been the biggest change of my life.

» Q+A A HOUSE TO CALL A HOME Entrepreneur Brent Bolthouse, 42, is Los Angeles nightlife. No one person has been as effective as luring Young Hollywood and Old Hollywood out to see and be seen than this California native. After creating Bolthouse Productions in the ‘90s, he partnered with Sam Nazarian’s SBE Entertainment Group and created such establishments as Hyde, Area, Foxtail and Katsuya.

In 2009, the Hollywood Dell resident joined forces with VOX Entertainment to form Bolthouse VOX, which counts HBO, Mercedes-Benz and Wolfgang Puck among its clients. His newest nightspot, the Bungalow, adjacent to the Fairmont Miramar Hotel & Bungalows in Santa Monica, is a place “that I can call home for my friends and [me],” says Bolthouse. —Jessica Radloff

How has the nightlife industry evolved in the past 10 years?

The landscape has changed so much. The truth is, nightlife in Hollywood has become only about money and the guy who buys tables from $300 to $3,000 per night. There is no vibe, there is no soul, there is no sense of family like there once was 10 or 15 years ago when the whole cast of That ‘70s Show spent every Friday night after a taping at whatever club we had at the time. Additionally, TMZ has changed so much about nightlife. While it feeds the public’s addiction to celebrity, it in turn also keeps those same celebrities out of most clubs.

This is why the Chateau Marmont and SoHo House are better than ever. We all love going to a place that makes us feel safe. do you still enjoy going out to a lounge or club after spending so many years in the business?

I love going out and I love people. Of course I have nights to myself, but even after 22 years, it is still in me. [However,] I don’t love fist-pounding clubs with dance music at 120 decibels on my night off.

How did you come up with the concept for the Bungalow?

For years, I wanted to have a

place on the Westside and have always loved the Baja Cali vibe that is part of L.A. life. Santa Monica needed a place with a vibe that fit their lifestyle. It was one of those “a-ha” moments. what kind of hours does a nightcrawler like you keep?

That’s funny. I’m up by 8:30 am each day and go to bed no later than 2 am. where do you go for the best meal in L.A.?

Tasting Kitchen in Venice, Il Ristorante di Giorgio Baldi, and Fig in Santa Monica. where do you shop?

I like to keep it simple—Chucks and Dior jeans and H&M for everything else. for those that are intimidated

by L.A. nightlife—bottle service, the velvet rope—what’s your best advice for having a good time?

Go to The Bungalow and skip the velvet rope. We’re a neighborhood place with a warm and welcome vibe. deTAILS The Bungalow 101 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.899.8530 Chateau Marmont 8221 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.656.1010 dior Homme 315 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.247.8003 fig Fairmont Miramar Hotel & Bungalows, 101 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.319.3111 H&M 6922 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.466.7633; Sunset Plaza, 8580 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.855.9683; additional locations at hm.com Il ristorante di Giorgio Baldi 114 W. Channel Road, Santa Monica, 310.573.1660 SoHo House 9200 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.432.9200 Tasting kitchen 1633 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.392.6644

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How did you get involved in the hospitality and nightlife industry?

I was 19, and it happened at the right time and place, with my first club being Opus Lily. I had no idea what I was getting myself into, but there was a line with 300 kids by 10 pm.

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BY CHANCE • CAMILLA • CAMILLA AND MARC • CHASER • CHELSEA FLOWER • CLOVER CANYON • CURRENT/ELLIOTT • CUT 25 • DAVID LERNER • ELIZABETH & JAMES • ENZA COSTA • ESCAPE BY MATHEW WILLIAMSON • ETOILE ISABEL MARANT • EQUIPMENT • FINDERS

9647 Brighton Way

3013 Yamato Road

Boca Raton Hotel & Rsort

Beverly Hills

Boca Raton

EXCLUSIVELY FOR MEMBERS AND HOTEL GUESTS

310.278.6200

561.394.0899

561.347.6595

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cocktail confidential NEOSPEAKEASIES, RESERVATION-ONLY DRINKING DENS, HIDDEN DANCE CLUBS—THE HOTTEST L.A. NIGHTSPOTS HAVE AN AIR OF SECRECY. by Katie MCCarthy

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Red carpets, celebrity guest lists, mile-long lines—L.A. nightlife has its fair share of spectacles. But lately, flashy clubs on high-traffic boulevards have given way to sophisticated bars in clandestine locales known by a select few. Allow us to let you in on L.A. nightlife's little secrets.

➻BLIND BARBER

Business in front, party in back. No, we're not talking about your cousin's mullet. We mean the Culver City speakeasy Blind Barber, the recently opened import from New York City's East Village. Behind a glass door simply marked "barber shop," hipsters get haircuts and old-fashioned hot-towel shaves while sipping complimentary cocktails. Come 6 pm, those in the know proceed through a door hidden behind a towel closet and into a chic

parlor. Here, mixologists at a patinated-brass bar serve handcrafted cocktails—five house options and five seasonal—created with local produce. For hungry patrons, there's a menu of gourmet grilled-cheese sandwiches. 10797 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.841.6679

➻BAR THIRTEEN From its roost in the Pershing Square Building, Perch is the downtown rooftop bar du jour with an after-hours French-bistro vibe (steak frites and kir royals,

Opposite: Old Fashioned at the Varnish downtown.

This page: drink cart at Sayers Club in Hollywood

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Clockwise from left: Beacher's Madhouse in Hollywood; £10 in Beverly Hills; Seventy7 in Culver City

➻£10

if the Hollywood club scene leaves you longing for a night more civilized—say, one spent swirling and savoring a fine scotch with don draper-esque panache— then ring £10 (that's "10 pound") at the montage Beverly Hills. this reservationonly spot nestled above the scott Conanthelmed scarpetta serves macallan whiskeys and whiskey cocktails with a perfectionist touch: cooled with large spherical ice chunks made of water imported from the scottish Highlands, and presented in lalique crystal glasses. do a tasting or indulge in the macallan 64, a 64-year-old aged singlemalt whiskey and the brand's finest. 225 N. Cañon drive, Beverly Hills, 310.860.5808

➻BASEMENT TAVERN

if the victorian looks as if it was plucked from a residential neighborhood and dropped onto santa monica's main street, that's because

it was. the historic former private home's patio is a chic, romantic spot for enjoying cocktails amid strings of twinkling lights.

Walk around back to a discreet door and amble down two staircases and you find its underground speakeasy, Basement tavern. enjoy live music from local bands while nursing a libation—delia's elixir is named for the victorian's ghost, the matriarch of the family who lived in the mansion in the 1890s. pull your pals into the game room for a little friendly competition; there are board games as well as a Nintendo Wii system. 2640 main st., santa monica, 310.396.2469

➻SAYERS CLUB Where hot dogs and fist-pumping collide, sayers Club can only be found by wandering inside Hollywood's papaya King, the New York-based fast-food joint offering franks and tropical juices. the trendy sBe entertainment Group operates both venues, but while anyone can indulge in one of papaya King's chili-smothered franks, it takes considerably more finesse to make it through the door of exclusive sayers Club, whose "secret" entrance is to the left of the counter. the sexy club features tufted leather couches, rough-hewn brick walls and major attitude. Handcrafted cocktails designed by mixologist ryan magarian tempt revelers, and djs and live-music acts keep the party going.

1645 Wilcox ave., Hollywood, 323.871.8233

➻THE WRITERS ROOM if the walls of the Writers room could talk, oh, the tales they'd tell. Writers such as f. scott fitzgerald, ernest Hemingway and William faulkner and Hollywood power players frequented the bar formerly in this space, the "back room" of musso & frank restaurant. the nightspot has been restored courtesy of nightlife visionary Nur Khan and investors including actors jason segal and jack Huston. a décor highlight is a 1928 elevator cage, which functions as vip booth with curtains and a daybed. Celebrated local mixologist daniel Nelson commands a cocktail menu inspired by the ethnic neighborhoods of los angeles. 6685 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.491.4148 ➻SEVENTY7

a bar hidden behind ... another bar? seventy7 in Culver City has the ultimate cover. an approachable neighborhood joint, rocco's tavern is a reliable choice for a cold pint and a greasy slice, but a sleeker crowd heads to seventy7 lounge, accessible through an alley adjacent to rocco's and marked by a sign that simply reads "cocktails." utter the password (consult seventy7's twitter feed; it changes nightly) to enter the sleek bar and lounge. order a sip from the absinthe fountain or a signature cocktail such as the plaid Bikini with whiskey, elderflower syrup, Yellow Chartreuse, grapefruit juice and bitters. 3843 main st., Culver City, 310.559.7707

previous spread, left: trujillo paumier

anyone?) and impressive views of Bunker Hill's skyscrapers and pershing square. venture beneath perch to its newer, lesserknown counterpart, Bar thirteen, still so clandestine that even the perch website contains no word of its existence. When you've had enough of the alfresco scene, head downstairs to this dark, intimate den for live entertainment (jazz, burlesque and stand-up comedy) and artisan cocktails.

448 s. Hill st., downtown, 213.802.1770

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SHOPPING AT ITS FINEST Find the latest styles and hottest trends at your favorite shops.

Enjoy one of 10 restaurants or dine al fresco at the Dining Terrace with 16 express eateries.

Pick up a VIP Visitor Card filled with special offers for our out-of town guests at the Westfield Concierge.

10250 Santa Monica Blvd. Los Angeles, CA 90067 310.277.3898 Westfield.com

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Macy’s Bloomingdale’s

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From top: oldschool elegance at Basement Tavern in Santa Monica; the Writers Room in Hollywood

Q+A:

John Terzian at l.a.'s trendier nightspots, the velvet ropes are so impenetrable that they're practically ironclad. john terzian, owner and operator of the taste-making H.Wood.Group responsible for nightspots such as Bootsy Bellows in West Hollywood and santa monica's shorebar, offers tips for getting past the strictest gatekeepers.

I was afraid you might say that.

Any other tips? the people [who get in the door] are friends of friends, or know someone. and if they don't, they usually dress the part. they dress up for a night out. they don't look like they're going to a day at the beach.

What's the best way to get a doorman sweet on you? When people get in that don't have a connection to the place, they say, "i'm in from tennessee visiting, heard all about it, would love to get in." that person has a better

shot .... say, "Hi, i'm so-and-so, is there anything you could do for us?"

Words to avoid? "do you have any idea who i am?" or "do you have any idea who i work for?"—two lines that are an automatic "no."

I get the sense that you've seen a lot of tantrums. i had a person screaming he was best friends with john terzian, and i said, "Why don't you call him on the phone?" and he said, “i will!”

Do women have an easier time getting through doors than men? i think women always have a better shot of getting in. [laughs.] they tend to run the world.

➻THE VARNISH

Cole's downtown is one of l.a.'s oldest restaurants, and more than 100 years after it started slinging french dip sandwiches, the 213 Nightlife group enlivened it with a much-needed, prohibitionera-glam makeover. its loft-dwelling hipster clientele is content to sit at a front bar sipping the classic cocktails on offer, but the most coveted seats are through a discreet door at the back of the restaurant that leads to the varnish. a leader of l.a.'s recent cocktail renaissance, the varnish helped bring drinks such as the old fashioned back in style. fittingly, an old-school vibe permeates the décor down to the smallest detail. (Yes, your suspendered bartender is taking calls on an antique rotary telephone.) 118 e. 6th st., downtown, 213.622.9999

➻BEACHER'S MADHOUSE david arquette is onstage, and oompa loompas are flying overhead. No, you haven't been drinking too much. (Well, maybe you have.)

You're just at Beacher's madhouse, the Hollywood roosevelt Hotel's ultimate den of debauchery. Nightlife mogul jeff Beacher's

legendary venue has made a permanent home in Hollywood with investors including arquette, an occasional emcee. if you make it past the doorman, you'll walk through a door disguised as a bookcase and into a vaudeville-theaterlike space that hosts a range of oddball entertainment. spring for bottle service and a fully costumed oompa loompa whizzes through the air on wires and drops your beverage at your table. 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.785.3036

➻THE ROGER ROOM

take into account the gaggles of well-dressed denizens going in and out the door at 370 North la Cienega Blvd., and the neon signage indicating a psychic parlor suddenly looks ... suspicious. even those in the know may walk past the roger room a few times before realizing the storefront is a fake. With its stained-glass windows, cozy booths and retro wall murals, the cocktail bar looks like the kind of place where flappers would have gotten a little wild back in the day. the roger room has style to spare, but nightcrawlers come for the drinks, concocted /continued on page 28

joHN terZiaN: dale BermaN

What's a surefire way to get in the door at a hot lounge or club?

Buy a table. i think you make a reservation for bottle service.

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Downtown Burbank Welcome to

Orochon Ramen

220 N San Fernando Boulevard (818) 845-0817 www.orochon-ramen.com Orochon Ramen is home to the Special #2 challenge, which was featured on the Travel Channel’s Man vs. Food and is famous for being the hottest ramen soup on the planet!

Urban Outfitters

330 N San Fernando Boulevard (818) 842-7053 www.urbanoutfitters.com If you’re a metropolitan trendsetter, Urban Outfitters has your outfit. From quirky to oddball, from super cute to hyper chic, this stylish retailer puts the “urban” back in Burbank.

Coach

Downtown BurBank Chosen as the region’s Best Downtown by readers of Los Angeles Daily for two consecutive years. Downtown Burbank is the commercial heartbeat of the city, a regional entertainment and shopping destination that attracts millions of visitors per year. And to boast, Downtown Burbank’s flagship AMC 16 is one of the top grossing theaters in the USA. Come see what all the buzz is about and EXPLORE, UNWIND and DINE with us!

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201 E Magnolia Boulevard #246 (818) 566-8691 www.coach.com For the most luxurious handbags in the world, head over to Coach in Burbank Town Center. Lovingly made with the finest leather, Coach embodies heritage, craftsmanship and design with styles that are classic, yet completely new.

Wild Carvery

150 E Olive Avenue (818) 859-7233 www.wildcarvery.com Wild Carvery uses natural meat, organic produce and fresh ingredients to provide the most natural foods available. Delivery available. Open from breakfast to dinner daily.

Mama Hong’s Vietnamese Kitchen

211 N San Fernando Boulevard (818) 558-6262 Mama Hong’s Vietnamese Kitchen specializes in authentic Vietnamese cuisine made from scratch in-house, based on recipes handed down for many generations.

Experience Vietnamese cuisine as it should be: fresh, healthy and delicious!

IKEA

600 N San Fernando Boulevard (818) 842-4532 www.ikea.com/us/en/store/burbank Check out the IKEA Family Benefits card for monthly product discounts, free coffee or hot tea in the restaurant, and more Småland time for the kids—30 extra minutes (capacity-depending).

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My Big Fat Greek Restaurant

201 E Magnolia Boulevard #276 (818) 559-1300 www.mybigfatgreekrestaurant.com Greek cuisine made from the freshest local ingredients, My Big Fat Greek Restaurant is a feast fit for the Olympian gods. Surrender to the luscious flavors of spanakopita, mousaka and souvlaki served in the warm hospitality of the restaurant.

Active Ride Shop

328 N San Fernando Boulevard #1 (818) 333-1580 www.activerideshop.com Active Ride Shop is Southern California’s ultimate casual lifestyle destination owned and operated by skateboarders. Offering a wide range of skate and snowboards, the store has the best selection around for street shoes, clothing and accessories.

Hokkaido Seafood Buffet

Story Tavern

150 S San Fernando Boulevard (818) 567-4200 www.storytavernburbank.com An authentic tavern offering 20 varieties of craft beer on tap with an amazing wine and cider list, Story Tavern’s features comfort food, good times and great company served with a dash of Burbank history.

109 E Palm Avenue (818) 260-9888 www.hokkaidoseafood.com Serving a mix of Japanese and Chinese gourmet dishes, Hokkaido Seafood Buffet features a Teppanyaki iron grill and a menu featuring organic salads, fresh fish and hot food such as radish beef stew, baked spinach and fried bananas.

Backside

139 N San Fernando Boulevard (818) 559-7573 www.backsideonline.com A rare find nowadays, Backside is the real deal -- an independent music store stacked high with vinyl, cd’s and street apparel.

With a knowledgeable staff, frequent DJ appearances and an arty vibe, Backside has been a popular Downtown Burbank hangout for nearly 20 years.

Flappers Comedy Club

102 E Magnolia Boulevard (818) 845-9721 www.comedycasting.com Laugh with tinsel town’s top talent at Flappers Comedy Club, where they’re still celebrating the repeal of Prohibition. Sizzling cuisine and intense cocktails pair up with first-rate comedic performances in three dining and show areas.

The Backhouse Restaurant

150 S San Fernando Boulevard (818) 524-2288 www.backhouserestaurant.com An offshoot of the ultra-trendy Wokcano Restaurant and Lounge, The Backhouse Yakitori and Sushi Bar delivers simple foods with a menu featuring bento box lunches, tapas-style small plates and yakitori, skewers cooked on an open fire.

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La Descarga in Hollywood

www.vuarnet.com

continued from page 24/ by preeminent L.A. mixologist Damian Windsor. 370 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.854.1300

© 2012 Photo: Zai Aragon

➻LA DESCARGA

vuarnet glasses are available in your beverly hills 9509 s. santa monica blvd off rodeo dr - tel. 310 247 9479

First, you have to find La Descarga's storefront—next door to a taco stand, on a block on the edge of Hollywood that looks nothing like a destination. Step inside, march up the staircase, and walk into ... an office.

Then, with a knowing smile, a babely hostess throws open a pair of wardrobe doors to reveal the entrance for this otherworldly, Cuban-styled rum bar.

Bartenders busy themselves muddling lime and sugar for mojitos while patrons, who mind the upscale dress code, look on. A jazz band and dancer, who performs hourly, entertain on the walkway above; an open-air cigar lounge in back provides another hangout space. 1159 Western Ave., Hollywood, 323.466.1324

even knows what it's called! The former private dining room at the Chateau Marmont in West Hollywood was recently converted to a supertiny, superexclusive and unnamed cocktail destination hidden in a corner of the hotel's restaurant. (Hotel guests may be favored at the door; reservations are suggested.) With just four tables and swanky sips such as the Professor (gin, blood orange and fig bitters) and La Fume de Jalisco (mezcal, Aperol, habanero chiliinfused agave and lime), the bar is bound to attract the Hollywood power players who have flocked to the hotel since it opened in 1927. Columbia Pictures founder Harry Cohn once quipped, "If you must get into trouble, do it at the Chateau Marmont." We (and Lindsay Lohan) couldn't agree more.

8221 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.656.1010

Daniel Djang / ThirstyinLA.com

➻THE BAR AT CHATEAU MARMONT It's so hush-hush, no one

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JOIN US December 1st at our ANNUAL HOLIDAY TREE LIGHTING. HOME OF BOUTIQUES & PAMPERING, THE GREEN LIGHT DISTRICT AND THE HAPPIEST HOUR ALL ON HISTORIC MAIN STREET.

GOGA 2710 main st.

310.452.1695 shopgoga.com

LA VECCHIA CUCINA 2654 main st.

310.399.7979 lavecchia.com

ADELHEID & EUPHEMIA STUDIO 2802 main st., suite 3 310.570.5267 shoppingcarttree.com

A featured contestant on Project Runway and Project Runway All-Stars, Gordana Gehlhausen, brings her one-of-a-kind accessories, couture dresses and chic casual wear to Main Street.

Santa Monica’s finest neighborhood Italian restaurant since 1990. Offering outstanding cuisine, great wine, full bar and warm hospitality. Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Shopping-cart tree artist Anthony Schmitt is now scheduling appointments for your creative/interior needs and design services for consultation. Email anthony@anthonyschmittdesigns.com.

A world away from the ordinary, a block away from the beach

O’BRIEN’S IRISH PUB 2941 main st.

310.396.4725 obrienspub.com

MINDFULNEST 2711 main st.

310.452.5409 mindfulnest.com

BASEMENT TAVERN 2640 main st.

818.648.8391 thevictorian.com

This cozy neighborhood pub has been around since 1995, proudly serving a great range of brews, whiskeys and spirits as well as fine Irish and American cuisine.

Live music nightly!

American made adornments for your home, body and soul, featuring more than 100 artists who create cards, jewelry, metal, mixed media, paintings, prints and pottery!

The Victorian, frequently used as a wedding/events venue, has a hidden “speak-easy” style bar called Basement Tavern at the Victorian.

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where abouts The City of Angels is the most vibrant city in the Western Hemisphere and one of its most diverse.

The area generally referred to as L.A. is actually made up of numerous cities and neighborhoods. Here’s our guide to the most visited among them.

m 4:15 PM

IAN WHITE

CITY INDEX

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BEVERLY HILLS SANTA MONICA WEST HOLLYWOOD HOLLYWOOD DOWNTOWN PASADENA THE VALLEY SOUTH BAY MAPS

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exploring

Beverly Hills

Beverly Hills is a luxury lover’s mecca: designer shopping, fine dining, mansions.

Century City, Westwood and Culver City are pockets with their own draws.

Few neighborhoods match Beverly Hills’ grip on the popular imagination, thanks to a history studded with more celebrity and excess than an Aaron Spelling TV series. Today, luxury juggernauts lure well-heeled shoppers to Rodeo Drive, while the mansions of famous locals past and present draw busloads of lookyloos. Nearby cities and neighborhoods stake their own claims to L.A.’s affections, including skyscraper-speckled Century City, known for business and high-end shopping; Westwood, home to UCLA; and Culver City, an emerging dining and cultural destination steeped in entertainment-industry history.

THE MANSIONS

The launch of Beverly Hills’ glamorous reputation dates to the early 20th century, when the then-new Beverly Hills Hotel ushered in a frenzy of movie-star mansion-building in the hills north of Sunset Boulevard. Today, the population of 35,000 is more economically diverse than Tinseltown might suggest. Nonetheless, the triumvirate of Beverly Hills, Holmby Hills and Bel-Air still attracts its share of famous residents, including the Stefani-Rossdale and Beckham families. Hop on the Beverly Hills Trolley Tour or book ahead with Starline Tours to see notable homes in the ‘hood, along with other local landmarks packed into the city’s nearly six square miles. Among the more storied and oft-filmed estates nestled in the hills is the 19th-century English Revival-style Greystone Mansion & Park, whose graceful cityowned grounds are open for strolling.

RODEO DRIVE + GOLDEN TRIANGLE

From Greystone, head west on Sunset Boulevard, then hang on to your wallet as you turn south onto Rodeo Drive. After passing through a tony residential neighborhood, you enter the shopping district known as the Golden Triangle, bounded by Santa Monica and Wilshire

RUSH STREET AND KIRK DOUGLAS THEATRE, EDWIN SANTIAGO; TWO RODEO, BJARNE G. JENSEN. OPPOSITE: ian white

From left: Rush Street bar and Kirk Douglas Theatre, both in Culver City; Two Rodeo in Beverly Hills

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new in town

Chanel on Rodeo Drive

Beverly Hills Brownie Company

Fourteen unique brownie varieties baked fresh daily. 315 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.275.1295

Blind Barber

Get groomed before cocktail hour at this barbershop/speak-easy mash-up.

10797 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.841.6679

Rolex

Leader in luxury timepieces sets up shop with one of the country’s largest collections of Rolex watches. 360 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.887.4200

Sprinkles Ice Cream

Ice cream parlor adjacent to Sprinkles Cupcakes scoops handcrafted flavors.

9631 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.274.7890

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boulevards and Cañon Drive. David Yurman and Tom Ford each recently opened flagships on Rodeo, reminding retailers that 90210 is still the most prestigious ZIP code in the States. Ascend the Italian-esque side street to Tiffany & Co., perched atop Two Rodeo.

Pause for the quintessential Beverly Hills snapshot before continuing on to the Beverly Wilshire Hotel (of Pretty Woman fame) at the south end of Rodeo. Continuing west, pass Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Barneys New York, the reigning luxury retail titans along this stretch of Wilshire. At Santa Monica Boulevard, you hit the Beverly Hilton Hotel, which rolls out 30,000 square feet of red carpet annually to host the Golden Globe Awards.

THE INDUSTRY + THE ARTS

Beverly Hills isn’t all shopping sprees and gated estates: Talent agencies William Morris, Endeavor and United Talent Agency are just three of the entertainment business powerhouses based here. Witness fierce negotiations and wooing over Cobb salads at The Grill on the Alley on Dayton Way and Spago on Cañon. The city’s cultural treasure-troves include the Paley Center for Media and the Samuel Goldwyn Theater at the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, both of which hold screenings.

Promising even more cultural programming is the forthcoming Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts, which will transform the historic Beverly Hills Post Office into an entertainment destination.

CENTURY CITY

Heading west from Beverly Hills on Santa Monica Boulevard, you enter the 0.3-squaremile modern acropolis of Century City. International Creative Management and Creative Artists Association are located here, as is a

Fox Studio lot and countless legal, financial, entertainment and hospitality firms. But those outside the biz won’t be excluded. Just past Avenue of the Stars, you hit the upscale Westfield Century City shopping center, with luxury boutiques and dining venues to rival those of Beverly Hills. Nearby on Constellation Boulevard, Top Chef judge Tom Colicchio draws epicures to his acclaimed restaurant Craft and lower-priced Craftbar.

Steps away, The Annenberg Space for Photography displays cutting-edge exhibits of digital and print photography.

UCLA

A few miles northeast of Century City is the University of California, Los Angeles, one of the top public universities in the country.

Visitors are welcome at several university attractions, including the Fowler Museum of Cultural History and the outdoor Franklin D. Murphy Sculpture Garden in the north campus, the planetarium on the south campus and the seven-acre Mildred E. Mathias Botanical Gardens (100 Stein Plaza Driveway). The Hammer Museum is nearby and houses works by Degas and Rembrandt as well as contemporary works and installations.

Paid parking is available in UCLA lots and structures throughout the 419-acre campus.

WESTWOOD VILLAGE

Just south of the campus, the pedestrianfriendly Westwood Village features independent shops and cafes among its art deco and Mediterranean Revival buildings, as well as two landmark movie theaters at the intersection of Broxton and Weyburn avenues: the 1936 marquee-wrapped Bruin Theater, and the Village Theater across the street. Built circa 1931, the Village Theater is a favorite for movie premieres and thus prime starspotting territory. Another don’t-miss venue is the award-winning Geffen Playhouse,

located on LeConte Avenue in one of the oldest buildings in Westwood.

CULVER CITY

Covering five square miles about four miles southeast of Westwood, Culver City has benefited from a polish in the past few years, and now boasts a thriving downtown. The Kirk Douglas Theatre and the Ivy Substation, home to the Actors’ Gang, bookend the downtown area and stage excellent live productions throughout the year. Traveling east on Washington Boulevard, don’t miss the sprawling Helms Bakery complex, which contains dozens of high-end furniture showrooms. Moving along Washington, the scene-y Arts District has more than 30 art galleries and exhibition spaces clustered along Washington and La Cienega boulevards. At the intersection of Washington and National boulevards is one end of the anticipated new Expo Line, a Metro light rail that traverses from Culver City to Exposition Park and the University of Southern California to the heart of downtown.

Hollywood gets all the attention, but it’s Culver City that claims the official motto “The Heart of Screenland.” In 1915, Ince/ Triangle Studios, today Sony Pictures Studios, opened at 10202 W. Washington Blvd. Classics including The Wizard of Oz would eventually be filmed on the lots of the pioneering movie studio. The stately Thomas H. Ince Studio opened in 1918. Today, Culver City’s screen culture is still going strong, with the TV series Cougar Town among the productions filming at Culver Studios, and the Spider-Man franchise among the hits produced on the historic lots at Sony. Fully experience Culver City’s screen heritage by taking a studio tour at Sony.

For bold items, see listings in the where guide.

For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see pages 108–109.

great find

WALK ON THE WILD SIDE Endangered and illegally trafficked exotic animals find sanctuary at the Star Eco Station in Culver City, an environmental science museum and exotic wildlife rescue center. For the past 14 years, Star Eco Station has worked with the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and other government and environmental organizations to provide a haven for such animals as iguanas, parrots, alligators and bobcats. Visitors can participate in hands-on lessons in ecology and environmentalism, interacting with birds, wildcats, reptiles and ocean life in a tropical jungle setting. The station also aims to enhance the discovery experience with a unique storm-drain display and a walk-through kelp forest. 10101 Jefferson Blvd., Culver City, 310.842.8060, ecostation.org

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BHRAC

8 0 0. 479. 59 9 6 | www.BH Rent AC a r.co m

Beve rl y H i l l s H o l l ywo o d L a s Ve g a s L AX Los An g e l e s

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exploring

Santa Monica

From left: Parker Mesa Overlook in Pacific Palisades; the Venice canals; Pacific Park at Santa Monica Pier

pubs such as Ye Olde King’s Head that hint at the city’s large population of British expats. anchoring the promenade at Broadway is Santa Monica Place, a pristine open-air shopping center with nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, 80 boutiques and a top-level dining deck with a food court, upscale restaurants and a gourmet marketplace. east on Broadway is the legendary Fred Segal, an emporium of high-end shops on each side of 5th street. santa Monica pier, built in 1909, is at the end of Colorado avenue and features Pacific Park, a miniamusement park with food stands and rides, including a solar-powered, Led-lit Ferris wheel.

More Hot BloCKS

northeast of third street promenade, the stretch of tree-lined Montana avenue between 6th and 17th streets is busy, but still pleasant. its boutiques, including anat B., planet Blue and Roseark, are of a more independent variety than those lining the promenade. Father’s Office,

this page and opposite: ian white

In the 1800s, a real estate agent called Santa Monica “the Santa Monica has Zenith City by the Sunset Sea.” The 21st-century version of the approachable vibe of a beach town Santa Monica fulfills its early promise with a bustling downtown and beach that draw millions of visitors per year. By the shore with the benefits are athletic activities and the West Coast’s most famous pier; of a major city— on dry land are shops that suit a variety of tastes and hundreds nightlife, dining, of dining options. Pacific Coast Highway connects SaMo with entertainment and destinations such as Malibu and Topanga. shopping galore.

Malibu, Venice tHirD Street + tHe pier Third Street Promenade, three pedestrian-only blocks on 3rd street between Broadway and and Brentwood wilshire Boulevard, is perpetually teeming with people. Visitors can hit dozens of boutiques, watch movies at three cinemas or gawk at the myriad street artists. are appealing if they don’t refuel at the eateries along 3rd, visitors can venture to the surrounding blocks options nearby. to Blue Plate Oysterette or Sugarfish, and imbibe at the hotel shangri-La’s rooftop bar or

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Robert Irwin’s Central Garden at the Getty Center in Brentwood

new in town Mercado

the duo behind Yxta Cocina Mexicana dishes up signature Mexican small plates and unique cocktail creations. 1416 4th St., Santa Monica, 310.526.7121

Satine

Jeannie lee opens her second l.A. luxury boutique, offering ready-to-wear runway and indie designer attire. 1508 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.6218

Scoop NYC

trendsetting new York–based boutique opens first California location. 216 26th St., Santa Monica, 424.238.5499

Shorebar

Handcrafted-cocktail bar in laid-back locale. 112 W. Channel road, Santa Monica, 310.429.1851

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known for its stellar burger, Locanda Portofino and R+D Kitchen are tops for dining; dessert lovers might venture to Sweet Lady Jane for its famous cakes, adored by celebs.

Just minutes south of downtown Santa Monica, Main Street is a quieter destination that still retains Santa Monica’s beachyupscale vibe. The long stretch between Pico Boulevard and Rose Avenue contains a number of galleries, restaurants, British pubs and boutiques (mostly femme-friendly) such as Arm Candy, Goga and Hip’tique. The California Heritage Museum is in a transplanted Victorian-era home, as is the Victorian, adjacent to the museum, which features a cool downstairs speak-easy, Basement Tavern.

THE ARTS

Visitors can take in plays at Main Street’s Edgemar Center for the Arts, housed in an angular concrete structure designed by Frank Gehry. An even wider variety of entertainment is at the Broad Stage, Santa Monica College’s first-rate, 499-seat performing arts center that hosts pop and classical music concerts, film, dance and theater.

As L.A. has emerged as a fine-arts capital, the campuslike Bergamot Station (2525 Michigan Ave.) has become an important destination. It’s home to 30 galleries, the Santa Monica Museum of Art and a cafe.

MALIBU

Twenty miles north of Santa Monica on Pacific Coast Highway is Malibu. Stars have made their homes here since the 1920s when May Rindge, the eccentric wife of an heir who once owned all of Malibu, began inviting celebs to live in Malibu Colony to pay the legal bills she racked up from fighting developers.

Much of Malibu’s best destinations are visible from PCH, such as the many restaurants with ocean views, from the supercasual (Malibu Seafood) to the upscale (Geoffrey’s).

Adjacent to the Malibu Lagoon and Bird Sanctuary, the Adamson House is filled with historic tile. The celebrity-frequented Malibu Country Mart serves as the area’s town square. Together with adjacent Malibu Village and Malibu Lumber Yard shopping centers, there are enough trendy shops and restaurants to while away an afternoon.

Inland, nearing Calabasas, are many wineries such as Malibu Family Wines and Sip Malibu, which offer tastings. Malibu Discovery Tours hosts tours of the region.

TOPANGA + PACIFIC PALISADES

In the counterculture 1960s, hippies and musicians such as Neil Young hid out in idyllic Topanga, accessed by long, winding Topanga Canyon Boulevard from PCH. Removed from urban activity, it retains its bohemian vibe and independently owned businesses. Hiking trails allow visitors to bask in Topanga’s woodsy beauty. Dining is best by the burbling creek at restaurants such as Abuelitas and Inn of the Seventh Ray. Pine Tree Circle has a lovely bistro and a few boutiques and galleries.

There’s more than initially meets the eye in seemingly sleepy, family-friendly Pacific Palisades, south of Topanga on PCH and accessed from Temescal Canyon Road. Hikers love the shady trails in Temescal Gateway Park. Cafes and upscale mom-and-pop shops such as Elyse Walker and the Prince’s Table can be found between Via de la Paz and Monument Street near Sunset Boulevard. One relatively unknown gem is the SelfRealization Fellowship Lake Shrine on Sunset, a breathtaking oasis on 10 acres with a lush garden and koi- and swan-filled lake.

Also, the resplendent Getty Villa, often mistakenly identified as being in Malibu, is in Pacific Palisades. Styled as a Julius Caesarera villa, it’s filled with Greco-Roman antiquities. Advance timed tickets are required.

VENICE

Abbot Kinney famously won the land that would become Venice in a coin toss. He sought to develop it as an American version of the Italian city; the canals are still there, today lined with sleek modern homes and million-dollar bungalows. His namesake Abbot Kinney Boulevard is Venice’s coolest section, where The Tasting Kitchen, Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea and boutiques such as Steven Alan, Linus Bikes, Guild and Jack Spade are the main attractions. Looky-loos love to stroll Ocean Front Walk to ogle the street vendors and performers, or bodybuilders at Muscle Beach.

BRENTWOOD

Reese Witherspoon, Ben Affleck and Jennifer Garner are some of the celebrities who live in this affluent enclave northeast of Santa Monica. San Vicente Boulevard functions as the neighborhood’s main street, with copious independent shops, bakeries, cafes and restaurants between Bundy Drive and where San Vicente becomes Federal Avenue. The petite Brentwood Country Mart, a unique open-air shopping center built in 1948, maintains a retro farmhouse charm but keeps retail offerings contemporary and upscale.

The area’s biggest draw is the Getty Center, the hilltop museum that houses J. Paul Getty’s spectacular art collection.

MARINA DEL REY

Marina del Rey’s main attraction is the marina, the largest manmade small-craft harbor in the world. Restaurants in the fisherman’s wharf are positioned to take advantage of the views. You can rent kayaks from UCLA Marina Aquatic Center (14001 Fiji Way), or shop and dine at Waterside at the Marina, located at Lincoln Boulevard and Fiji Way. For bold items, see listings in the where guide.­­ For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 108.

great find

LIKE A BOX OF CHOCOLATES For those looking to add a little bit of luxury to their lives, John Kelly Chocolates has the solution: truffle fudge! Each handcrafted piece delights with a creamy center of high-quality, natural ingredients coated in a layer of semisweet chocolate, produced at its factory in Hollywood. The signature truffle fudge bars can be savored solo or shared, and the single-serving truffle fudge bites come in flavors such as cappuccino, dark chocolate and orange. Experience chocolate overload at two John Kelly L.A. locations; the stores also sell assorted boxes, gift towers and corporate gifts. 1111½ Montana Ave., Santa Monica, 310.899.0900; 1508 N. Sierra Bonita Ave., Hollywood, 323.851.3269. johnkellychocolates.com

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MAVE_

Explore more than 150 shops, restaurants and services from 6th to 17th streets in Santa Monica.

John KElly ChoColatEs 1111½ Montana ave, 310.899.0900 johnkellychocolates.com

lonDon solE 1331 Montana ave, 310.255.0937 londonsole.com

Visit this national award-winning chocolatier’s beautiful store, and be surrounded by decadent truffle fudge, walnut caramel clusters, chocolate-dipped fruit and other artisan chocolate delights. Choose from single bars, gift boxes, or custom assortments. All handmade in Hollywood, and offered in 17 flavors, many topped with exotic salts. Gluten free, kosher.

London Sole offers the world’s largest collection of ballet flats, ballerina pumps, classic driving loafers and other exquisite traditional flat footwear from designer Jane Winkworth. The Montana and San Francisco boutiques are hot spots for celebrities who have fallen in love with the simple, sophisticated and sometimes bold designs.

Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 12pm-5pm

Mon-Sat 10am-6:30pm; Sun 11am-6pm

Mon-Sat 10am-6pm

thREE BaGs FUll

staCia 808 11th street, 310.393.7100 shopstacia.com

stEP shoEs 1004 Montana ave, 310.899.4409 Step Shoes offers the finest European quality footwear with brands such as Thierry Rabotin, Aguatalia, Cordani, Cydwoq, Mephisto MBT, Isabella Fiore and many more. In addition to its selection of comfortable and classy shoes, Step Shoes has a variety of distinctive handbags and fun accessories to choose from. Step Shoes is where style and comfort come together in total harmony.

Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 12pm-5pm

the sweater store

716 Montana ave, 310.395.5559 threebagsfull.com Featuring the very best in American and European knitwear. Style, service and versatility–we make travel easy and elegant–small to 2x. From the simplest cotton cardigan to luxurious handknits, Three Bags Full has got you covered.

Mon 10am-5pm; Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Open most Sundays 11am-5pm. Call first.

Montana EyEs 709 Montana ave, 310.917.4474 Do you accessorize with eyewear? Or, are you in the market for that perfect new pair of prescription glasses? Montana Eyes has showcased high-end eyewear for twenty years. This special boutique has any style to suit your needs: from the hottest trends to custom-frames and vintage specs. Come see for yourself why Hollywood stars shop at Montana Eyes.

The Stacia Ecoknits collection is designed locally in Santa Monica by designer Stacy Johnson. The sustainable bamboo knits are friendly to the earth and feel great against your skin. The colorful knitwear collection includes cardigans, dresses, sweaters, scarves, and a new Home collection, all made in luxurious, washable bamboo. Visit the new beach bungalow inspired boutique and discover bamboo!

Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm

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exploring

West Hollywood

Trends in fashion, design and food often begin in L.A., and many of those innovations can be traced to the pioneering community of West Hollywood.

For a municipality measuring less than two square miles and with fewer than 35,000 residents, West Hollywood wields enormous influence over the L.A. lifestyle. With a disproportionate number of world-class art galleries, fashion boutiques, restaurants, nightclubs and theaters, it’s a frequent destination for locals and tourists alike. The city, often referred to as WeHo, is home to a large and influential gay community, protective of the city’s cultural development and quality of life. West Hollywood and the adjacent Mid-City West area celebrate diversity, as hipsters live in harmony with senior citizens and immigrants.

Sunset Strip

After dark, this iconic stretch of Sunset Boulevard between Doheny Drive and Crescent Heights Avenue becomes the hottest stretch of asphalt in L.A. County. The club scene rocks here with many legendary establishments. The Roxy, Whisky a Go-Go and Rainbow Bar have a long history of hosting performances from rock ‘n’ roll’s finest. Other Sunset Strip nightclubs include the Viper Room and the Key Club. The Comedy Store continues to showcase the leading names in standup as well as emerging stars. During the day, boutiques such as Live! on Sunset and beloved Book Soup draw traffic.

Hotels are an integral part of the Sunset Strip scene. Chateau Marmont, a glorious and notorious celebrity hangout throughout the decades, remains a discreet local getaway.

Skybar, at the style-conscious Mondrian, retains its aura of exclusivity. At the Sunset Tower Hotel, Bugsy Siegel’s former suite has been converted into the Tower Bar.

SUNSET PLAZA

Sunset Plaza, between La Cienega and San Vicente Boulevards on Sunset Boulevard, is a collection of tony shops and bistros with an international flavor and free parking, a novelty

the grove, christopher ian smith; mel’s drive-in, ian White. opposite: monica nouwens

From left: The Grove; Farmers Market; Mel’s Drive-In on the Sunset Strip

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The Broad Contemporary Art Museum at Los Angeles County Museum of Art

new in town Dash

the Kardashian sisters relocate their womenswear boutique to trendy Melrose Avenue. 8420 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.782.6822

Persephenie

Certified aromatherapist and perfumer offers custom scents, essential oils, and handmade jewelry and incenses. 304 S. edinburgh Ave., L.A., 323.658.7507

Tom Bergin’s

Historic irish pub is gutted and revamped.

Also new is a menu of irish whiskeys and imported beers. 840 S. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.936.7151

Weeked Lovers

trendy, kitschy and classic combine at stylish clothing shop for women and children. 351 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.933.9032

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in this neighborhood. This is the city’s Euro Zone, where you’re apt to hear more French and Italian than Valley Girl. For up-to-theminute fashion, check out the collections at Oliver Peoples or either of the two H. Lorenzo shops. And after splurging for an outfit that’s all the rage in St. Barts, settle into one of several chic cafes, whose tables spill onto the sidewalk.

MELROSE AVENUE

Melrose Avenue has become virtually synonymous with trendiness, and new expressions in fashion, art and food continue to percolate up and down this street with multiple personalities. One stretch of Melrose, east of Fairfax Avenue, has an eclectic mix of indie boutiques, cafes and coffeehouses interspersed with tattoo parlors and vintage shops. Stores such as Wasteland and Ed Hardy have wild façades and vibrant signage that add energy to the scene. Farther west, Melrose becomes très sophistiqué, showcasing upscale tastes at Fred Segal, Kelly Wearstler, TenOverSix and Marc Jacobs. Just off Melrose is the quiet, fashionable three-block street of Melrose Place, where Bentleys line up for chic salons such as Frédéric Fekkai and cutting-edge boutiques such as Zero + Maria Cornejo, Monique Lhuillier or Marni.

THE AVENUES

Melrose Avenue’s massive Pacific Design Center is the hub of L.A.’s flourishing art, fashion and design district known as the Avenues, which runs along Melrose Avenue and Beverly and Robertson boulevards. The complex itself—monolithic blue, green and red buildings designed by celebrated architect Cesar Pelli—is itself noteworthy (you’ll either love it or hate it), but its 1.2 million square feet houses more than 130 showrooms catering to professional designers and luxury homeowners. PDC is also home to a

satellite of downtown’s Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) and a stylish Wolfgang Puck eatery, Red Seven.

BEVERLY + WEST 3rd

Beverly Boulevard and West 3rd Street are major east-west streets running through West Hollywood, filled with trendy restaurants, design showrooms and boutiques from some of the hottest up-and-coming clothing designers. The two streets bracket the landmark eight-level Beverly Center, whose design is reminiscent of Paris’ Pompidou Center. Bloomingdale’s, Henri Bendel, Fendi, Gucci, Stuart Weitzman and the Capital Grille are among more than 160 establishments drawing consumers.

On West 3rd Street east of Beverly Center, you’ll find favorite boutiques such as Shareen, Alexis Bittar for jewelry and Eggy for high-end children’s attire. There are many dining options such as Suzanne Goin’s AOC, plus a branch of Manhattan’s Magnolia Bakery. On Beverly Boulevard, you can browse vintage Lanvin at Beige, or score handcrafted shoes at Calleen Cordero. Afterward, you can experience market-fresh American cuisine at Cooks County or hearty Italian on the romantic patio at Dominick’s.

ROBERTSON BOULEVARD

Beverly Hills may be the toniest shopping district in L.A., but West Hollywood’s Robertson Boulevard is not far behind, particularly if you’re young and hot and have your own reality show. The celebutante set hits Curve for designer womenswear, Zimmermann for haute swimwear and Kitson for trendy accessories. A cutting-edge Chanel concept store illustrates the difference between Robertson Boulevard and more staid Rodeo Drive. For a breather between boutique-hopping, consider a cocktail with crab cakes on the picket-

fenced patio of Ivy Restaurant, where famous faces practically outnumber those of civilians.

FAIRFAX DISTRICT

Technically part of the city of Los Angeles, the Fairfax District is one of the most culturally diverse and artsy neighborhoods in the West Hollywood area. At Fairfax Avenue and Wilshire Boulevard is the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), a renowned multifaceted facility with more than 100,000 works from around the world. The Broad Contemporary Art Museum, designed by architect Renzo Piano, showcases art from the contemporary and modern eras, while the latest additions to the LACMA campus include the Lynda and Stewart Resnick Exhibition Pavilion and Ray’s & Stark Bar. Adjacent to LACMA is the Page Museum at the La Brea Tar Pits. Additional venues at this formidable Museum Row include the Petersen Automotive Museum and the Architecture and Design Museum. South of the museums is a surprise for curious foodies: a neighborhood known as Little Ethiopia, where acclaimed Ethiopian restaurants are located.

Be prepared to eat with your hands!

One of the district’s anchors is the historic Farmers Market, with more than 100 open-air produce stalls, shops and eateries. There are spots to satisfy virtually any craving, including a wine bar, taquería and stands with authentic Louisiana gumbo and Korean barbecue. Adjacent and connected by a vintage trolley is The Grove, an outdoor, pedestrian-only shopping center. The Grove has the character of an old-fashioned village square, with stained-glass street lamps and central fountain. Nordstrom, a movie theater and stores such as Athleta and Splendid are joined by eateries and restaurants.

For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of West Hollywood, see pages 108–109.

great find

INSPIRED HANDCRAFT The Japanese aesthetic of wabi-sabi embraces the natural, simple and mutable, imperfections and all. While the artists represented in the welcoming, light-filled West Hollywood concept gallery Iko Iko may not all consciously subscribe to those principles, there is a clear current of wabi-sabi-ish thoughtfulness and hand-hewn uniqueness running through the shop’s ceramics, textiles, wooden pieces, clothing and jewelry. Of particular resonance are Japanese Hagi ware tea ceremony vessels, plywood and reclaimed-wood Waka Waka furniture pieces (designed and handcrafted by the shop’s co-owner, Shin Okuda), vintage Japanese indigo cloth, edgy-yet-delicate Hannah Keefe chain jewelry and Rowena Sartin denim work aprons. 931 N. Fairfax Ave., West Hollywood, 323.719.1079, ikoikospace.com

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c t c la

M V

AT THE INTERSECTION OF PAST & PRESENT.

ince 1934, the Original Farmers Market has stood at the crossroads of Los Angeles history and culture. Today, it remains one of the last of the Hollywood legends, attracting people from all over the world to enjoy its eclectic mix of restaurants, grocers, shops and the best people watching the city has to offer. In a world ruled by change, the Original Farmers Market stands as an enduring landmark, steadfast at the junction of then and now, on the corner of Third and Fairfax.

Market events and activities throughout the year.

Visit www.farmersmarketla.com for calendars and updates.

®

“MEET ME AT THIRD

&

FAIRFAX”

6333 W. THIRD ST., LOS ANGELES, CA 90036 • 323.933.9211 OR 866.993.9211 MONDAY–FRIDAY 9AM–9PM • SATURDAY 9AM–8PM • SUNDAY 10AM–7PM 040-043_WHolly_WLA.indd 43

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exploring

Hollywood

From left: The Frank Lloyd Wright-designed Hollyhock House; Hollywood Walk of Fame; carousel in Griffith Park in Los Feliz

“Hollywood is a state of mind” was a popular refrain when this part of Los Angeles was in the midst of its decline not long ago. But with hot new boutiques, restaurants, hotels and condos sprouting up, it has reemerged as a bona fide destination. Amid a spirit of transformation, the neon lights on Hollywood Boulevard’s landmark movie palaces are fired up again, as waves of international visitors mingle with colorful locals. This new Golden Age of Hollywood marks the best time to visit in decades.

Hollywood + Highland

The Hollywood & Highland Center has been a catalyst for the rebirth of Hollywood Boulevard. Its Dolby Theatre, formerly the Kodak Theatre, is the home of the Academy Awards and new Cirque du Soleil show Iris, which premiered last year. The center’s shops are varied, including Lucky Brand and Louis Vuitton, and it boasts two nightclubs, the Highlands and Level 3. The central Babylon Court frames views of the iconic Hollywood sign. Built in 1923 to advertise a housing development, the 45-foot-high letters originally read “Hollywoodland.” Next door to Hollywood & Highland is Grauman’s Chinese Theatre, famous for its celebrity handprints embedded in the cement out front.

SHOWTIME

Just across the street from Hollywood & Highland is the ornate, lavishly illuminated El Capitan Theatre. Masterfully restored by Disney, it offers special presentations of the studio’s animated releases combined with performances using an antique Wurlitzer pipe organ and childrenpleasing stage shows. Jimmy Kimmel Live! tapes in an ABC studio next door. The Egyptian Theatre—built in 1922 around the time that King Tut’s tomb was discovered—screens eclectic artsy fare. The landmark Pantages Theatre has staged megahit musicals including Wicked, and the Hollywood Palladium has a rich history of showcasing headlining musicians.

THIS PAGE AND OPPOSITE: IAN WHITE

Hollywood is reclaiming its legendary glamour, and once-bohemian Los Feliz and Silver Lake are sharing in Tinseltown’s new Golden Age.

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new in town Bar Stella

extension of french bistro Cafe Stella recalls Casablanca with Moroccan speak-easy style. 3932 w. Sunset Blvd., Silver lake, 323.666.0265

Blok

dancers, vodkas and red dĂŠcor provide a flashback to old-school Moscow at russion-themed nightclub. 1650 n.

Schrader Blvd., Hollywood, 323.785.0011

Clare Vivier

flagship boutique features the designer’s line of brightly colored, minimalist handbags, accessories and gadget cases. 3339 w. Sunset Blvd., Silver lake, 323.665.2476

Dream Collective

designer kathryn Bentley displays her high-end costume jewelry and fine jewelry lines, plus clothing and accessories, at flagship store. 1404 Micheltorena St., Silver lake, 323.660.2000

Griffith Observatory in Griffith Park

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Walk of fame

The sidewalks along 15 blocks of Hollywood Boulevard (La Brea Avenue to Gower Street) and three blocks of Vine Street (Yucca Street to Sunset Boulevard) are inlaid with the legendary brass-and-terrazzo stars honoring celebrities from the entertainment industry.

More than 2,400 stars are enshrined beneath the feet of tourists, but the roster is not without its quirks—Pee-wee Herman has one but Clint Eastwood doesn’t. Marilyn Monroe’s star is steps from Hollywood & Highland, and John Lennon’s is appropriately located in front of the Capitol Records Building, the structure designed to resemble a stack of records.

museums, HollYWooD-sTYle

Hollywood has its museums, but don’t expect to encounter Picasso or Monet, or even a T. rex skeleton. Next to Grauman’s Chinese Theatre is Madame Tussauds Hollywood, filled with more than 100 wax figures ranging from legends Clark Gable and Audrey Hepburn to contemporary icons such as Justin Timberlake and Lady Gaga.

You can ponder some zany accomplishments at the Guinness World Records Museum, while the Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Museum offers bizarre exhibitions on double-headed animals and shrunken human heads. Serious movie buffs, however, head to the Hollywood Museum, which occupies four floors of the historic Max Factor Building. Among the 10,000 costumes and artifacts on display are Indiana Jones’ whip, Rocky Balboa’s boxing gloves and W.C. Fields’ top hat.

aRouND VINe

The storied intersection of Hollywood Boulevard and Vine Street, the epicenter of the Hollywood Walk of Fame, boasted a large concentration of entertainment industry companies in the 1920s. It’s a different Hol-

lywood today, but the magic of this location endures in the soaring W Hollywood Hotel & Residences, which boasts Delphine brasserie and Drai’s rooftop club. A Metro station is integrated into the hotel; Hollywood is particularly well served by mass transit. Across the street is boutique hotel the Redbury and its stylish Middle Eastern restaurant, Cleo.

Sunset Boulevard and Vine is in transition, but dance clubs and eateries give this corner plenty of character. Serious cinephiles catch their flicks at ArcLight Cinemas, where it’s easy to spot a celeb. Close by is Amoeba Music, where music fans and collectors browse the aisles through 31,000 square feet of space packed with rare vinyl records, CDs and memorabilia.

A couple of blocks west is the stylish minicomplex Space 15 Twenty, catering to shoppers well into the evening. The center is anchored by a supersize Urban Outfitters and complemented by other hip boutiques.

NIGHTCRaWlING

The revival of Hollywood has only enhanced its endless nightlife opportunities, and a lively bar and club scene permeates the district. On Hollywood Boulevard, you can party under the guise of literary advancement at library-themed Hemingway’s, or attempt to get past the velvet ropes at MyHouse and Supperclub. Cahuenga Boulevard also hosts dozens of clubs.

Quintessentially L.A. but a galaxy removed from Hollywood Boulevard is the Hollywood Bowl, the largest outdoor amphitheater in the U.S., where the Los Angeles Philharmonic takes up residence from June to October. Picnicking under the stars here is among the most memorable experiences in L.A. Nearby is the Ford Amphitheatre, featuring a more intimate environment for international music, dance and family fare.

los felIZ + sIlVeR lake

These neighborhoods are among the bestkept secrets in the county. Vermont Avenue, the main drag in Los Feliz, presents a collection of shops and restaurants that range from bohemian to chic. Skylight Books and 24/7 diner Fred 62 are popular hangouts. Newer lounges such as Rockwell represent the neighborhood’s increasing sophistication.

A once-forgotten stretch of Hollywood Boulevard in Los Feliz now hosts trendy boutiques such as Confederacy and restaurants including cult fave Umami Burger. Fully transformed is Silver Lake Boulevard, now crowded with eateries and upscale retailers.

At Sunset Junction, where Sunset and Santa Monica Boulevards intersect and the eponymous music festival takes place every summer, is where Los Feliz transitions into Silver Lake. Foodies hang at casual Forage or the Cheese Store of Silverlake, while aspiring screenwriters hammer at their laptops and sip lattes at Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea.

GRIffITH PaRk

The largest urban park in America, this sprawling swath is an ideal place to hike, picnic, golf, ride horses and more. The Charlie Turner Trailhead begins at the Griffith Observatory, one of the great planetariums in the world and a frequent filming location. The hike up Mount Hollywood (three miles round trip) provides views of the Hollywood sign, and the nearby Greek Theatre, a 5,700-seat amphitheater, is a legendary music venue.

Also located in Griffith Park is the underrated Los Angeles Zoo and Botanical Gardens and the Western heritage-oriented Autry National Center, both accessible from the Ventura (SR 134) or Golden State (I-5) freeways.

For bold items, see listings in the where guide.

For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see pages 109–110.

great find

IT’S ECLECTIC Take one part gift boutique and add a pinch of vintage and a dash of art to get Co-op 28, a co-operational (hence the name) boutique for men and women set in the heart of Los Feliz. All of the items in Co-op’s inventory of jewelry, clothing, accessories, bath and body products, pillows and candles are either handmade or produced by more than 115 local, national and international independent designers. The boutique’s newest addition, a vintage collection, includes clothing and accessories, lunch boxes and pop-culture items.

A back gallery displays changing exhibits that spotlight artwork from local painters and sculptors. For shoppers with a sweet tooth, Co-op offers candy selections, sold by the pound. 1728 N. Vermont Ave., Los Feliz, 323.669.2828, coop28.blogspot.com

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© 2012 Hasbro. All Rights Reserved. © 2012 Paramount Pictures Corporation. All Rights Reserved. ©2012 Universal Studios. All Rights Reserved. 12-ADV-11964

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exploring

Downtown

From left: City Hall; signage in Grand Central Market; the Frank Gehry-designed Walt Disney Concert Hall

Beverly Hills and Venice Beach may be favorite tourist attractions, but downtown should not be overlooked. Historic art deco structures share the street-scape with glass- or titaniumclad masterpieces, and even movie stars are snapping up hip lofts carved out of turn-of-the-century structures. The city’s arts scene roars to life in downtown, a place where the usual image of L.A. as “laid-back” hardly applies.

Union Station

The ornate Union Station was the last of the grand railroad terminals built in the U.S. Its importance faded as the automobile began to dominate life in L.A., but Union Station has staged a comeback, thanks to a renovation and downtown’s new energy. From Union Station, the hub of the Metro system, you can board the Red Line to Hollywood and the San Fernando Valley or the light rail Gold Line to Pasadena, Blue Line to Long Beach and Expo Line to Culver City. Nonstop bus service to LAX is available 24/7. Metrolink commuter trains connect distant suburbs, and you can jump on an Amtrak train for a scenic journey along the coast.

Grand Avenue + MUSIC CENTER

The heart of L.A.’s performing-arts scene and the site of its most dramatic architecture, Grand Avenue is beginning to live up to its name. On Bunker Hill, once filled with Victorian mansions, four venues make up a formidable collection of stages at The Music Center. The 3,200-seat Dorothy Chandler Pavilion is home to the Los Angeles Opera, and the Ahmanson Theatre and the Mark Taper Forum host theatrical productions.

The flashiest Music Center venue is architect Frank Gehry’s curvaceous, jaw-dropping Walt Disney Concert Hall, home of the Los Angeles Philharmonic. Its young music director, Gustavo Dudamel, exudes an energy that rivals the building’s audacious design. Also housed at Disney Hall, with a separate entrance around the corner, is REDCAT, which offers performance and visual arts productions. Patina offers elegant feasts inside Disney Hall.

from left: sarah hadley; ian white; ashok sinha. opposite: ian white

L.A.’s urban center reflects the cultural diversity, worldclass architecture and dynamic commerce that make the city a superstar on the global stage.

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new in town Grand Park

Four blocks from the Music Center to City Hall feature terraces, olive trees, a performance lawn/stage and a memorial fountain. Between Grand Avenue and Hill Street and First and Temple streets, downtown, 213.974.1311

Mo-Chica

Peruvian Chef Ricardo Zarate transplants modest debut eatery to expanded, industrial-chic space.

514 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.622.3744

Sandast High-quality, vintage-inspired bags and belts for men and women from designer Milan Franeta. 1205 S. Hill St., downtown, 213.748.1210

The Bradbury Building is an iconic example of Italian Renaissance Revival architecture.

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Steps from the Music Center is the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels, designed

by Spanish architect José Rafael Moneo. A short walk south on Grand is the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA), Southern California’s premier contemporary art museum.

The Omni Hotel and California Plaza are adjacent. Nearby Angels Knoll is a welcome patch of greenery amid the concrete jungle.

Angels Flight, a vintage funicular that climbs to California Plaza from Hill Street below, is billed as “The Shortest Railway in the World” (just 298 feet!); a ride costs 25 cents. At the foot of the hill, the Bunker Hill Steps rise five stories at the U.S. Bank Tower, the tallest building west of the Mississippi.

Across the street is the Los Angeles Public Library, an art deco masterpiece.

OLVERA STREET

The origin of the city of Los Angeles, dating back to 1781, is El Pueblo de Los Angeles, a collection of 27 buildings along festive pedestrian concourse Olvera Street. The city’s oldest building, Avila Adobe (circa 1818), is located here, along with Mexican restaurants, mariachi bands and merchants offering arts and crafts. A few blocks away is the city’s oldest restaurant, Philippe the Original (1908), where a cup of joe is just 45 cents.

HISTORIC DISTRICTS

Often overlooked by tourists is the Broadway Theatre District, home to once-opulent movie palaces. A few, such as the Orpheum Theatre, have been restored to their original grandeur. Historic structures are being converted into lofts; Johnny Depp owns a condo in Broadway’s Eastern Columbia Building. The Bradbury Building (304 S. Broadway), built in 1893 in the Italian Renaissance Revival style, was featured in the film Blade Runner.

Spring Street from 4th to 7th streets is a rapidly awakening area once referred to as the “Wall Street of the West.” Steps from this historic district is a row of hip bars on 6th Street (between Main and Los Angeles streets) that includes The Varnish.

SHOPPING DISTRICTS

Downtown’s heritage as a mercantile center can still be experienced in its historic shopping districts, popular with bargain hunters.

The Jewelry District draws shoppers to markets such as St. Vincent Jewelry Center (650 S. Hill St.), where 500 merchants offer gold, diamonds and baubles. In the neighboring Fashion District, 115 blocks centered around the California Market Center, you can find designer clothing items. At Santee Alley, an open-air bargain bazaar, designer trends breed low-priced knockoffs. The Flower District offers blooms at wholesale prices. And for an awesome array of produce and international foods, Grand Central Market, near the foot of Angels Flight, is the place to go. Many vendors here deal in cash only.

CHINATOWN

Chinatown remains a great destination for sampling dim sum or browsing for authentic clothing, tea or home furnishings. Cultural highlights include the ornate Thien Hau Temple (750 Yale St.) and the Chinese American Museum. Pedestrian-oriented Chung King Road and Gin Ling Way are now home to galleries and Mountain Bar, while Broadway boasts cool boutiques. Dodger Stadium is a short drive away, as is San Antonio Winery, which offers tours and tastings.

LITTLE TOKYO

Little Tokyo is still a proud ethnic enclave, but it, too, is emerging as an up-and-coming hipster ’hood. The dining scene is popping, led by newer restaurants such as Lazy Ox

Canteen, and you can still nibble on traditional sushi prepared by veteran chefs at Japanese Village Plaza. Just a few steps down 1st Street is the sleek, glass-ensconced Japanese American National Museum. The Geffen Contemporary, a Frank Gehry-renovated branch of MOCA, is next door. At 2nd and Main streets is the historic Cathedral of Saint Vibiana, formerly home of the Los Angeles Archdiocese.

W

L.A. LIVE

The $2.5 billion L.A. Live project has been called the epicenter of the downtown renaissance. Staples Center, home to the Los Angeles Lakers, Clippers and Kings, hosts top pop acts, as does Nokia Theatre L.A. Live, which boasts state-of-the-art acoustics. The adjoining Grammy Museum honors myriad music genres with videos, artifacts and interactive exhibits. A dozen restaurants and nightlife venues—WP24, Trader Vic’s and Lucky Strike Lanes, to name a few—face a massive urban plaza lined with towering LED screens. The Los Angeles Convention Center, encompassing 16-plus acres of exhibition space, is also here.

EXPOSITION PARK

Just south of downtown is Exposition Park, whose grounds hold major museums and the Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum. The sevenacre Exposition Park Rose Garden is legendary, and the Beaux-Arts-style Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County offers insight into prehistoric giants. Other attractions include the California African American Museum and the California Science Center with its 3-D IMAX theater. The science center is the future home of space shuttle Endeavour.

Farther west of Exposition Park is the jazz and blues capital of Leimert Park; south is Watts, home of the Watts Towers.

For bold items, see listings in the where guide.

For a detailed map of downtown, see page 109.

great find

FASHION INDEPENDENCE Sixhundred began as a dream of graphic designer Alan Bunao’s to provide a place to showcase clothing lines from up-and-coming designers, as well as his own. The intersection of Spring and 6th streets provided the location and the team, consisting of Bunao and buyers Orlando Reneau and Kelly Love, supplied the foundation to create a boutique specializing in independent designers from around the world. Bunao’s creative eye, Reneau’s knowledge of vintage and Love’s passion for fashion collide amid woodwork and piping décor and unique furniture. Sixhundred’s recently expanded space houses brands including Marshall Artist, Sky Clothing, Dimepiece Design, Love Nail Tree and JRevolution. 600 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.599.1600, sixhundredla.com

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LA CIENEGA BLVD LA CIENEGA BLVD LA CIENEGA BLVD

DESCENDING BUNKER HILL

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3rdStre

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PYRRHA

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8315 West 3rd Street (323) 424-4807 pyrrha.com

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Couture loungewear and pajamas designed by Renee Claire and made in L.A. Also featuring fine bedding and gifts.

Mention ad for a free gift with purchase.

BEDHEAD PAJAMAS 8336 West 3rd Street (323) 653-8336 bedheadpjs.com

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Handmade sterling silver and 14k gold jewelry cast from 19th-century wax seals rich in inspirational imagery.

CRESCENT HEIGHTS BLVD CRESCENT HEIGHTS BLVD CRESCENT HEIGHTS BLVD CRESCENT HEIGHTS BLVD

WEST 3RD STREET

The Orlando on Third, a fashionable, boutique hotel in a vibrant, urban neighborhood. Enjoy a taste of living L.A.!

ORLANDO HOTEL 8384 West 3rd Street (800) 624-6835 theorlando.com

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W. 3RD STREET W. 3RD STREET W. 3RD STREET W. 3RD STREET W. 3RD STREET W. 3RD STREET

Contemporary children’s clothing, toys and accessories.

EGGY

8365 West 3rd Street (323) 658-8882 shopeggy.com

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Show Pony features eco-clothing, hand-crafted jewelry, one-of-a-kind accessories, leather handbags, shoes and unique gifts.

SHOW PONY

8363 West 3rd Street (323) 782-4212 showponylosangeles.com

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exploring

Pasadena

Pasadena, aka the Crown City, brings a blend of small-town charm and cosmopolitan energy. Eagle Rock, Glendale and the San Gabriel Valley are also worth discovering.

Just minutes from downtown via the historic Arroyo Seco Parkway or the Metro Gold Line train, Pasadena is no ordinary bedroom community. The Craftsman-style bungalows in its leafy neighborhoods hint of a world-renowned architectural heritage, and institutions such as the Tournament of Roses, Caltech and NASA’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory, nearby, give the community a gravitas far beyond its size. In neighboring San Gabriel Valley communities, additional treasures await.

Old Pasadena

A tribute to foresighted urban planning is the 22-square block shopping district known as Old Pasadena, roughly bounded by Walnut Street and Del Mar Boulevard, Arroyo Parkway and Pasadena Avenue. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the once-neglected district contains restored buildings and the city’s trendiest boutiques, nightclubs and restaurants such as Cheval Blanc Bistro and Haven Gastropub + Brewery.

Pedestrian-only alleys meander through One Colorado, where an eclectic collection of restaurants have alfresco dining overlooking a sculpture-strewn square.

A few steps east of Old Pasadena lies Paseo Colorado, an inviting shopping center with ArcLight Cinemas and upscale shops such as Coach and BCBG Max Azria lining garden promenades. A variety of dining options is offered at this mixed-use development, whose open-air design frames views of such historic structures as Pasadena City Hall (100 N. Garfield Ave.).

Playhouse District

Anchored by the Mission-style Pasadena Playhouse, this district is filled with upscale antique shops, boutiques and dining rooms with ornate façades. Also present is the Le Cordon Bleu-affiliated College of Culinary Arts, with a restaurant open to the public, and the famed Ice House comedy club. The neighboring Boston Court Performing Arts Center presents dramas and musicals. The pagoda-crowned Pacific Asia Museum features exotic

from left: amy k. fellows; edwin santiago; bjarne g. jensen. opposite: edwin santiago

From left: The streets of Old Pasadena; Pasadena City Hall; Colorado Street Bridge

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new in town Bellacures

Chic salon’s newest location beautifies with manicures, pedicures and waxing.

40 Mills Place, Pasadena, 626.264.8616

Individual Medley

Vintage collection of clothing for adults and kids, housewares and knickknacks.

3176 Glendale Blvd., Atwater Village, 323.665.5344

Ración

Old Town restaurant is inspired by pintxos bars in Spain’s San Sebastian. 119 W. Green St., Pasadena, 626.396.3090

The Stillroom

Handcrafted muddled cocktails and entree classics at stylish seafood restaurant and upscale lounge. 181 E. Glenarm St., Pasadena, 626.799.0700

The Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens in San Marino

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decorative arts from every corner of Asia, and the Pasadena Museum of California Art celebrates Golden State painters and sculptors from 1850 to the present. Dining choices include Pie ’n Burger, a favorite Caltech dive.

Just east of the Playhouse District, South Lake Avenue provides a vibrant shopping environment. At the Commons and Burlington Arcade, charming boutiques are set around European-style courtyards. A drive farther south on Lake Avenue reveals the opulent, historic Langham Huntington Hotel.

Orange Grove Boulevard

This wide boulevard, once called Millionaire’s Row, is still lined with splendid estates, including the former Wrigley Mansion, which now houses the Tournament of Roses Association and is open for tours. The immediate neighborhood features the legacy of architects Frank Lloyd Wright, Wallace Neff and Paul Williams. The genius of Greene & Greene, pioneers of the Arts & Crafts movement, is evident at the Gamble House, also open to the public.

Just around the corner on Colorado Boulevard is the Norton Simon Museum, home to one of the finest art collections in America.

The galleries at this small museum are filled with masterpieces from the Renaissance to the 20th century, and its repertoire of Impressionist masters (Monet, Cézanne, van Gogh) is impressive. It also features extensive art from India and a tribute to Degas in a lovely sculpture garden.

SAN MARINO + SOUTH PASADENA

In the exclusive residential community of San Marino is the Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens, one of the most remarkable pieces of real estate in Southern California. Here the beautifully restored Itali-

anate mansion of railroad magnate Henry Huntington is packed with 18th- and 19thcentury art including Thomas Gainsborough’s Blue Boy and Sir Thomas Lawrence’s Pinkie. A library with 600,000 rare books and manuscripts occupies another structure. Throughout the 200-acre property are more than one dozen distinct botanical environments, re-creating native habitats from England, China and elsewhere. Tea service is offered in a cottage amid a formal rose garden.

Directly south of Old Pasadena is the independent municipality of South Pasadena, a shady, tranquil community. The Mission West historic district, particularly Mission Street, is packed with antique shops, galleries and cafes. The town is particularly kidfriendly, thanks to adorable shops such as the Dinosaur Farm and Fair Oaks Pharmacy, a 1915 restored drugstore with a soda fountain.

EAGLE ROCK + GLENDALE

Just west of Pasadena is Eagle Rock, a quiet college town that is reinventing itself as a hip neighborhood with an understated boho-chic vibe. Its main drag of Colorado Boulevard is suddenly lined with one trendy cafe after another, from Vietnamese to French to vegetarian—plus Casa Bianca, a venerable old-school pizza joint. Students from Occidental College, where a young Barack Obama studied, mingle with young couples who have snapped up the hillside real estate.

On the other side of Eagle Rock is Glendale.

Office workers pour out of high-rises for happy hour at The Americana at Brand, an open-air shopping, residential and entertainment development. Here, find value at H&M or splurge at boutiques such as Kate Spade.

It’s a great place for a movie followed by a snack from Crumbs Bake Shop or sushi and cocktails at Katsuya. The trilevel indoor shopping center Glendale Galleria is adjacent. Its

department stores include Nordstrom, Macy’s and Target, and specialty boutiques include Banana Republic, Coach and Tilly’s.

Glendale’s diverse population—it’s home to one of the largest Armenian communities in America—provides plenty of flavor, including elaborate restaurants. Marked by a towering neon obelisk is the Alex Theatre (216 N. Brand Blvd.), an art deco masterpiece that hosts concerts and musicals.

Just north of downtown Glendale is the delightful community of Montrose, with its homespun shops and all-American diners.

Nearby is sprawling Descanso Gardens, home to North America’s largest camellia collection—an awesome sight when fully in bloom during January and February.

SAN GABRIEL VALLEY

Kissing Pasadena’s eastern border is Sierra Madre, a quaint community that refuses to be paved over. Arcadia is home to Santa Anita Park, one of the most storied thoroughbred horse racing venues in the world. Adjacent to the racetrack is Westfield Santa Anita, an ever-expanding shopping center. Arcadia is also home to the 127-acre Los Angeles County Arboretum and Botanical Garden, whose natural Southern California habitat is famous for its wild peafowl; you might see a flock crossing nearby streets.

The 1771 San Gabriel Mission is a notable landmark in the neighboring city of San Gabriel. The San Gabriel Valley cities of San Gabriel, Temple City, Alhambra and Monterey Park have drawn large numbers of Chinese and Vietnamese immigrants in recent decades, and some of the best Chinese restaurants in America are found here, including Hong Kong-style seafood houses that are great fun for dim sum brunches.

For bold items, see listings in the where guide.

For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 110.

great find

CHAMPAGNE THAT POPS At Pop Champagne & Dessert Bar, finding the perfect drink is the focus of the evening.

Patrons are encouraged to indulge in one of the bar’s Champagnes, sparkling wines, dessert wines and artisanal beers. Each can be paired with a selection of gourmet cheeses, charcuterie, small plates or entrees, as well as Pop’s mouthwatering housemade desserts—think maplebacon crêpes, roasted peach cobbler and chocolate–peanut butter crème brûlée. For the wine novice, a certified sommelier is on-site to provide recommendations; oenophiles can entertain themselves with a list of more than 50 wines by the glass, rotating flights, sparkling specialty drinks and an ever-expanding bottle list. 33 E. Union St., Pasadena, 626.795.1295, popchampagnebar.com

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OPBD-

J

ust 15 minutes from downtown Los Angeles, and conveniently situated along the Metro Gold Line, Old Pasadena is a vibrant hub of world-class shopping, dining, arts, and entertainment. Comprised of 22 blocks of nationally-registered historic architecture, Old Pasadena is widely recognized as a premier destination and one of the few truly walkable urban districts in California.

Come explore more than 300 specialty boutiques, exclusive retailers, sidewalk cafés, and fine restaurants in this authentic main street experience.

Shopping is fun at this high-end designer resale store, offering the best of recent and vintage Chanel, Vuitton, Prada and more!

Clothes Heaven

111 E. Union St. 626.440.0929 clothesheaven.com

Come unwind with Bird Pick Tea & Herb’s refreshing tea drinks and explore the vast selection of teas and tea accessories.

Violet’s has extended its product line to include six gluten-free and vegan flavors: strawberry, red velvet, chocolate, vanilla, lemon and blueberry.

The only hotel located within Old Pasadena.

Walking distance to 300 shops and restaurants. Full-service accommodations.

Bird Pick Tea & Herb

Violet’s Cakes

Courtyard by Marriott

10 S. De Lacey Ave. 626.773.4372 birdpick.com

21 E. Holly St. 626.395.9821 violetscakes.com

180 N. Fair Oaks Ave. 626.403.7600 marriott.com/laxot

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exploring

The Valley

The San Fernando Valley, aka “the other side of the hill,” celebrates the Hollywood spirit.

The Valley is a sprawling collection of bedroom communities whose population approaches 2 million. Immortalized in movies as diverse as Chinatown and Valley Girl, the area derives its name from Mission San Fernando Rey de España, the historic landmark on the Valley’s northernmost edge. Universal Studios Hollywood and Universal CityWalk hug a hillside above the Hollywood Freeway, marking the southeastern gateway to the Valley.

Universal City

Just a couple of Metro stops north of the heart of Hollywood is Universal City, a major entertainment industry outpost. Universal Studios Hollywood offers a behind-the-scenes peek into moviemaking and high-tech action rides such as the new Transformers Ride and King Kong 360 3-D, created by film director Peter Jackson. Guests who splurge for Universal’s “VIP Experience” are pampered like stars and can cut to the front of the line for every ride.

Among the wide-ranging attractions next door at pedestrian-only Universal CityWalk are sky-diving simulations at iFLY Hollywood, an exhilarating wind tunnel, mechanical bull riding at Saddle Ranch Chop House, stand-up performances at Jon Lovitz Comedy Club and rock-and-roll bowling at Jillian’s Hi Life Lanes. Boutiques such as Abercrombie & Fitch and Guess Accessories will loosen your wallet before you take in such diverse acts as Kesha and Judas Priest at the neighboring Gibson Amphitheatre.

Burbank

The “beautiful downtown Burbank” that Johnny Carson used to poke fun at has grown up into a cosmopolitan hub with 80 restaurants, 200 shops and 30 movie screens.

Burbank Town Center (201 E. Magnolia Blvd.) offers a major mall shopping experience, but surrounding streets, such as historic San Fernando Boulevard, have a more homegrown feel with hip shops and trendy bistros such as Granville Café. Magnolia Park, a quaint

FAR LEFT AND FAR RIGHT, EDWIN SANTIAGO; center, rick meyer. OPPOSITE: mark lipski

From left: The NoHo Arts Center in North Hollywood; AMC Walkway in Burbank; Universal CityWalk in Universal City

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commercial district centered at Magnolia Boulevard and Hollywood Way, offers cafes, antique shops and boutiques including Encore Nouveau and Swift. Porto’s Bakery is renowned for its Cuban confections and sandwiches, and the iconic Bob’s Big Boy hosts a classic car show every Friday. DeBell Golf Club is open to the public and offers a challenging 18-hole course and a par-three course.

If you’re jetting into or out of L.A., you can escape the hassles of LAX by opting for convenient, uncongested Bob Hope Airport in Burbank. It offers nonstop flights to many cities across the country and reduces stress, especially for visitors to the San Fernando Valley, Pasadena or San Gabriel Valley communities.

BURBANK’S STUDIOS

While the Valley may be dismissed by Westside hipsters, there’s as much Hollywood going on here as in Hollywood itself, thanks to the presence of several studios in Burbank. Warner Bros. Studios and NBC Studios offer back-lot tours similar to those at Universal, and all of the studios recruit audience members for tapings of sitcoms and talk shows. Audiences Unlimited is among the ticketing agencies offering the best opportunities to score free tickets to tapings. For The Tonight Show with Jay Leno, contact NBC directly.

Petty, the boulevard is an integral part of L.A. culture. As it stretches through Studio City, it’s lined with an eclectic mix of eateries, from entertainment-industry-favored Art’s Deli to elegant Bistro Garden, not to mention a greater concentration of acclaimed sushi bars (Katsu-ya, Asanebo) than Little Tokyo. For shopping, there are hip boutiques including Dari and stylish retreats such as ROB|B by OPI Salon and Belle Visage Day Spa, owned

by Kirsten Dunst’s mother. Hip bars and supper clubs including Firefly have helped to launch a nightlife scene. You’ll see plenty of famous faces in the Valley, where celebrities treasure its more family-oriented lifestyle.

Farther west, as the boulevard winds its way through Sherman Oaks, you’ll encounter laid-back trattorias and bistros as well as shops such as Abundance, a boutique showcasing plus-size designer fashions.

Sherman Oaks is also home to Westfield Fashion Square, anchored by Bloomingdale’s and featuring Betsey Johnson, BCBG Max Azria and Lucky Brand boutiques in a particularly pleasant, upscale environment.

Sherman Oaks Galleria is near the junction of the 405 and 101 freeways; draws include ArcLight Cinemas.

DEEP IN THE VALLEY

Warner Center is a high-rise mixed-use development in Woodland Hills with restaurants such as Roy’s. Neighboring Westfield Topanga shopping center is loaded with exclusive designer boutiques, including Louis Vuitton, Jimmy Choo, Cartier and Hugo Boss, plus anchoring department stores Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom and Macy’s.

Farther westbound on the Ventura Freeway (U.S. 101) is Calabasas, where celebrities move for clean air and elbow room.

Upscale shopping and casual eateries live at the Commons at Calabasas (4799 Commons Way).

A few exits beyond that is Westlake Village, where locals hit the spa or do lunch at the Four Seasons.

Air Force One is permanently grounded at the Ronald Reagan Presidential Library & Museum in neighboring Simi Valley. North on the Golden State Freeway (I-5) in Valencia, coaster enthusiasts gather at Six Flags Magic Mountain for rides too wild for Disneyland.

For bold items, see listings in the where guide.

For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 110.

The Commons at Calabasas

NORTH HOLLYWOOD

North Hollywood wasn’t much of a tourist destination until the community transformed its commercial core into the NoHo Arts District, now filled with nearly two dozen professional theaters, including the landmark El Portal Theatre. These venues present some of the most innovative stage performances in L.A., as neighboring dance studios and art galleries contribute to the scene. With the addition of new restaurants like the Federal Bar, a lively gastropub with a full calendar of music and comedy, the momentum continues for this transit-linked urban village.

From NoHo’s Metro station, you can access central Hollywood and downtown via the Red Line subway, or board the Orange Line, a surprisingly sleek express bus that traverses the entire San Fernando Valley.

Ventura Boulevard This iconic, palm-lined boulevard stretches 20 miles from one end of the San Fernando Valley to the other. Immortalized in music by the Everly Brothers, Frank Zappa and Tom

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exploring

South Bay

The South Bay’s beaches and harbors are actionpacked, but the living is easy. Look for ocean-view dining, mom-andpop shops and seaside attractions.

In the South Bay, the cities of Manhattan Beach, Hermosa Beach and Redondo Beach occupy an idyllic coastal stretch renowned for surfing, volleyball and expensive real estate.

Farther south beckon the rugged bluffs of the Palos Verdes Peninsula, and beyond them, the bustling waterfronts of San Pedro and Long Beach. Longing for a laid-back vibe? Scenic beaches? Premier shopping and dining? Outdoor adventure?

You’ll find all of them—and more—here.

Manhattan Beach

Nineteen miles southwest of downtown Los Angeles, Manhattan Beach boasts two miles of beaches with sand so fine that developers from Waikiki Beach in Honolulu imported it in the 1920s. One of the more affluent cities in the county, Manhattan Beach is home to many professional athletes: You may spot an L.A. Kings player as you walk along the Strand, the pedestrian promenade sandwiched between multimillion-dollar homes and the beachfront bike trail. At the end of the 928-foot-long Manhattan Beach Pier, the Roundhouse Aquarium delights with touch tanks and terrifies with a lifesize replica of a great white shark. The pier features bronze plaques commemorating winners of the Manhattan Beach Open—the South Bay is die-hard beach-volleyball country. It’s also a playground for water-sports enthusiasts, including boogie-boarders and surfers who congregate near the pier. East of the pier, casual cafes, laid-back bars and upscale boutiques radiate from the intersection of Manhattan Beach Boulevard and Manhattan Avenue. Metlox plaza is a popular gathering spot, with such shops as Baby Wright’s and the Beehive and hot spots such as Zinc at the Shade Hotel.

Hermosa Beach

Heading south on Manhattan Avenue brings you to Pier Avenue, the heart of Hermosa Beach. Hermosa shares many characteristics of Manhattan Beach, including a scenic twomile stretch of beachfront punctuated by volleyball nets, fitness buffs weaving along the

far left and center, bjarne g. jensen; far right, edwin santiago. opposite: christopher ian smith

From left: The Korean Bell of Friendship in San Pedro; Shoreline Village in Long Beach; Maison Riz restaurant on Redondo Beach Pier

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Lions Lighthouse for Sight in Long Beach

new in town Nikau Kai Waterman Shop

Boards, paddles, gear and lessons for water-sport enthusiasts. 1300 highland ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.7007

Rancho Los Alamitos historic ranch reopens with new rancho center and restored Barns area, which houses a permanent exhibition.

6400 e. Bixby hill road, long Beach, 562.431.3541

USS Iowa World War ii battleship takes on new mission, docked at the port of los angeles as a floating museum. 250 s. harbor Blvd., san pedro, 877.446.9261

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Strand (here merged with the bike path), and a pier studded with bronze plaques commemorating surfing legends. Come late afternoon, the pedestrian plaza at Pier Avenue west of Hermosa Avenue becomes a different kind of South Bay scene, thanks to spillover from hopping bars and restaurants such as Hennessey’s and Mediterraneo. Beyond Pier Plaza to the south, on Hermosa Avenue, Jay Leno draws crowds to the Comedy & Magic Club with Sunday night shows. To the plaza’s east, the ecofriendly cafe/boutique Gum Tree is a charming standout among the specialty shops and bistros that line Pier Avenue. Across the street, Becker’s carries surfboards and beachwear apropos for the town’s reigning pastimes.

Redondo Beach

The largest of L.A. County’s beach cities, Redondo Beach is home to the 1,457-seat Redondo Beach Performing Arts Center and a recreational waterfront featuring two miles of sandy beaches, the popular Redondo Beach Pier and King Harbor. Sepulveda Boulevard becomes Pacific Coast Highway as it enters town; signs point west to King Harbor’s Redondo Beach Marina, one of four marinas in the harbor. Here, you’ll find businesses such as Redondo Sportfishing offering recreational fishing excursions and whale-watching tours, while other local outfitters rent kayaks, paddle boats, bicycles and wave runners. South of the harbor, the historic Redondo Beach Pier has had its ups and downs, but it keeps rising from the ashes to attract locals and visitors to quick eats, amusements and souvenir shops. South of the pier, the gentle waves and somewhat narrow beach of Redondo State Beach draw crowds during the summer, while the bike path meanders by on its way to its terminus at Torrance State Beach. One block east of the beach, the Riviera Village shopping district has a small-town feel, with restaurants

and specialty boutiques such as Lisa Z. and MPressions covering a six-block radius.

PaLoS VeRdeS PenInSULa

Beyond Redondo Beach rises the Palos Verdes Peninsula, a rugged 26-square-mile area known for majestic bluffs that afford sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean and Santa Catalina Island. Hugging the coast on Palos Verdes Drive West brings you to Rancho Palos Verdes’ Point Vicente Interpretive Center, a marine museum and popular gray-whale-watching site during the annual northbound migration. Eight miles inland on Crenshaw Boulevard sprawls the 87-acre South Coast Botanic Garden in tony Palos Verdes Estates. Just beyond the interpretive center on Palos Verdes Drive West is the Wayfarers Chapel, designed by Lloyd Wright, son of Frank. The impressive Swedenborgian “glass church” is a popular wedding venue.

Golfers, take note: The Mediterraneanstyle Terranea Resort, just south of the chapel, has a public nine-hole course. A couple of miles south, the 18-hole public golf course at Trump National Golf Club is top-ranked.

San PedRo

The multicultural city of San Pedro, on the southeastern side of the Palos Verdes Peninsula, was once the largest commercial fishing port in the nation. Today, it’s home to the Port of Los Angeles, a major container port that also serves travelers on the Catalina Express and more than 1 million cruise passengers annually. From the port’s World Cruise Center, a vintage trolley takes visitors downtown to the waterfront restaurants and shops of the New England-style Ports O’ Call Village, and then to the marina, part of the Cabrillo Beach Recreational Complex. The complex includes a historic bathhouse and the Frank Gehry-designed Cabrillo Marine Aquarium, located next to Cabrillo Beach. Windsurfers

of all abilities congregate here, with outfitters including Captain Kirk’s (525 N. Harbor Blvd.) offering rentals and lessons.

LonG Beach

Covering 50 square miles in the southwest corner of L.A. County, Long Beach boasts a busy commercial port, an attraction-packed waterfront and more than five miles of beaches. Among its most popular draws is the 1,020-foot-long Queen Mary, a historic, supposedly haunted ship-turned-hotel, dining and shopping attraction permanently moored in Long Beach Harbor. Alongside it is the Cold War-era Russian Foxtrot Submarine.

The Long Beach Convention & Entertainment Center and the Pike at Rainbow Harbor entertainment complex are nearby, as is the Aquarium of the Pacific and the familyfriendly Shoreline Village. From the village, you can rent bicycles and follow the Shoreline pedestrian bike path 3.1 miles along the water, passing the Long Beach Museum of Art. The path ends at the tony Belmont Shore neighborhood. Here you’ll find restaurants and shops along 2nd street, Bay Shore Beach, the Belmont Pier, windsurfing and kite-surfing lessons, and even gondola rides through the canals of Naples, a neighborhood situated on islands in Alamitos Bay. Downtown, along 4th Street between Junipero and Cherry avenues, vintage furniture and clothing shops such as the Vintage Collective make up funky “Retro Row.” In the emergent East Village Arts District, hip galleries and boutiques are sprouting where Linden Avenue meets Broadway, while farther east, an impressive collection of modern and contemporary works decks the walls of the Museum of Latin American Art. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 109.

great find

BEACH BALMS Steps from the sand in Hermosa Beach, the first bricks-and-mortar flagship of Web retailer Dermstore addresses your saltwater- and sun-kissed appearance from multiple angles. First, the crisp and sunny salon will tend to your tresses. Next, the spa’s estheticians will tailor a treatment to your skin type using proven products from the likes of Decleor, Dermalogica and Yonka. Finally, with your nails polished to perfection, you’ll browse the shop’s well-edited (but plentiful) selection of dermatologist-recommended skincare and cosmetic products, including favorites such as Jane Iredale mineral makeup, Butter nail lacquers and Blue Lizard sunscreens. Stock up and slather on to maintain your renewed glow. 1316 Hermosa Ave., Hermosa Beach, 310.526.0008, dermstore.com

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IT’S PERSONAL

SOME OF L.A.’S BEST CHEFS HAVE LEFT THEIR GILDED CAGES, STRIKING OUT ON THEIR OWN WITH HIGHLY PERSONALIZED VERSIONS OF DINING. BY ROGER GRODY

Carrots with coffeecardamom “soil” and coconut milk “ice” at Ink on Melrose avenue. opposite: Ink’s chef/ owner Michael voltaggio

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i

opposite and this page, ed anderson

n decades past, chefs aspired to executive chef appointments at prestigious restaurants, typically formal establishments with big floral and linen budgets, a menu indicating copious amounts of truffles and caviar and carefully guarded reputations. These days, chefs are leaving those once-coveted environments for something even more ambitious: their own, more down-to-earth concepts.

Cooking at an expensive restaurant or hotel, while no doubt stressful, has considerable advantages for a chef, who generally enjoys a reasonably good salary while taking none of the financial risks. While he’s busy sourcing the finest butter from normandy or lamb from new Zealand, it’s the owners who face the unglamorous realities of paying the bills and dealing with insurance claims.

But ultimately, nearly every chef aspires to own his or her own place, and the increased popularity of informal gastropubs and pastarias has created a more feasible economic model for them to cook with their hearts, without taking on massive debt.

Chef Victor Casanova is one of the best examples of this trend. he had what most chefs would consider a dream job, cooking for a celebritystudded clientele at a posh Beverly hills hotel. his menu at Culina, the Four seasons hotel Los angeles’ dining room, was as chic and contemporary as the fashion-forward décor. Casanova’s food was favorably reviewed, but he yearned to provide a more personal expression of his craft. that dream has become a reality at Gusto, his recently opened restaurant on West 3rd street.

Casanova’s new place, which reflects his own vision—not those of highly paid interior designers and hospitality industry consultants—is much more like the restaurants he experienced while growing up in new York than that of a ritzy hotel. gusto is an intimate establishment that seats just 35 diners, and its flashiest elements are three framed wall mirrors. Modest vintage sconces take the place of Culina’s signature avant-garde chandelier, and customers are warmly greeted by the chef’s wife and escorted to simple white-linen-topped tables. the food here is rustic but prepared with sophisticated technique; dishes such as polpette (pork meatballs) plated over chilled whipped ricotta, baccalà (salt cod) croquettes and fresh-made pastas deserve praise. gusto may become a trendy L.a. eatery, but the look and feel is more of a neighborhood ristorante in Casanova’s native Bronx. the soft-spoken chef is as down-to-earth as the décor, and can be found schmoozing with his guests, reminiscing about early cooking experiences with his grandmother. andrew Kirschner was born on the opposite coast—he’s a santa Monica native—but his situation is not too different from Casanova’s.

Kirschner, who began earning a reputation for his exceptional cooking at santa Monica’s Wilshire restaurant, recently departed the security of that restaurant to open his own place a couple of miles away. Tar & Roses is the quintessential Westside eatery of the current era. it’s casual and noisy, unpretentious yet trendy, and takes its food seriously even though it’s hard to find anything on the menu priced above $25. at tar & roses, a wood-burning oven is Kirschner’s co-star, and nearly every dish, from addictive baby carrots to lamb loin, passes through it. “i’m passionate about using the highest-quality ingredients, and the wood-fired oven is truly the heart and soul of the restaurant,”

he says, preferring it for the distinctive flavor profile it lends. the menu even tells you what kind of wood (e.g. apple, oak) is burned on a given evening. “tar & roses is a deep personal reflection of me in every possible way, and i love that i’m able to have a spot that allows me to express myself on every level,” Kirschner says. “From the food to the décor to the hospitality, every detail at tar & roses is a reflection of how i believe a neighborhood restaurant should be!”

Chef paul shoemaker collaborated with Michael Cimarusti at downtown’s Water grill and at providence, and subsequently served some of the last formal meals at Bastide, where his cooking earned accolades. a few years ago, he broke out on his own with Savory in Malibu, a community that, despite its flashy $20 million beachfront homes and celebrity inhabitants, is hardly the epicenter of the L.a. dining scene. But the locale is very special to shoemaker. “i met and married the love of my life on a beach here in Malibu. it felt natural to combine both of my passions for family and cooking in this community,” the chef says. savory, ensconced in a vaguely Mediterranean shopping center that couldn’t be more different than the andrée putman–designed Bastide, reflects shoemaker’s own sensibilities, as does the approachable, quintessential California cuisine. “My philosophy is in the name ‘savory’ itself; providing that warm, welcoming atmosphere where people can gather and enjoy each other’s company over good food,” shoemaker says. “it’s all about savoring those great moments at the dinner table.” named after a historic link of the London Underground, a tiny line running beneath the river thames, is one of the nation’s best gastropubs. at Culver City’s Waterloo & City, complete with a 30-foot copper bar, two veterans of ultrafine dining have gone casual without compromising their standards in a space previously occupied by a family-style diner/steakhouse. in the kitchen is chef Brendan Collins, a classically trained Mélisse alum, while the front of the house is managed by gracious Carolos tomazos, formerly of celebrated new York dining rooms per se and Le Bernardin. “owning my own restaurant was something that i always wanted to do,” Collins says. in fact, he says, every job he took since the age of 25 was strategically considered with that goal in mind. “We try really hard to make it relaxed but efficient, with a big spoonful of personal touch,” says Collins of his restaurant’s mission. relieved that he no longer needs to conduct tastings for corporate chefs or adhere to somebody else’s standards of customer service, he says, “that freedom, for a creative-minded chef, is priceless.” Collins has learned to combine worldclass culinary technique with a casual neighborhood vibe, and this Brit turns out charcuterie—his terrines and pâtés are reason enough to drop by—that rivals any French chef’s in town. Collins and tomazos also collaborate on an even more casual, laid-back establishment in Venice.

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Larry’s, named for legendary local artist Larry Bell and pay- FROM THE HEART of molecular gastronomy. Cutting-edge dishes such as cuttlefish with green papaya, peanut-coconut cream ing homage to the artistic heritage of the beachfront comFarmshop Brentwood Country Mart, 225 and black lime, and scallops with egg-yolk gnocchi and munity, is as much outdoors as in. It offers burgers, fish 26th St., Santa Monica, mushroom “hay” are among the highlights. Ink is reguand chips, and a gorgeously crusted chicken pot pie, plus 310.566.2400 larly full, but the enormous promise of this chef has yet more than two dozen craft beers on tap.

Gusto 8432 W. 3rd to be fulfilled.

Jeff Cerciello is the chef-owner at Farmshop, a St., L.A., 323.782.1778 Alain Giraud has cooked some of the most memocombination cafe, market and restaurant at the rusticink 8360 Melrose Ave., rable meals ever served in Los Angeles, first at Michel chic Brentwood Country Mart in Santa Monica. The L.A., 323.651.5866 Richard’s beloved Citrus, then earning a rare four stars daily-changing, three-course, family-style dinner menus ink sack 8360 from the Los Angeles Times at Bastide. Even his most have earned a near-cult following among hip Westside Melrose Ave., L.A., elaborate meals, however, were anchored in relatively foodies. Here, girlfriends chat over organic salads, and 323.655.7225 simple, down-to-earth principles and lacked as much shoppers enjoy a break from browsing trendy boutiques pretension as a $150 tasting menu could. After departsuch as James Perse and Jenni Kayne. After apprenticing Larry’s 24 Windward Ave., Venice, ing Bastide, the Paris-born Giraud created an authentic at the French Laundry, Cerciello was the man Thomas 310.399.2700 brasserie experience in Santa Monica, and earlier this Keller came to rely on to help launch his new restauMaison Giraud year opened Maison Giraud. It’s his most intimate (literrants, including Bouchon in Beverly Hills. Despite its 1032 Swarthmore ally and figuratively) place yet. “As a chef/owner, I really Santa Monica location, Farmshop has the feel of a wineAve., Pacific Palisades, enjoy contact with my guests and establishing a concountry cafe and reflects Cerciello’s personal philoso310.459.7561 nection with the community,” says Giraud, who selected phy. “Everything we serve—and, in fact, everything you M.B. Post 1142 Manhomey downtown Pacific Palisades for that very reason. see—at Farmshop starts with a name, a face and a longhattan Ave., Manhattan “I buy tomatoes at the farmers market in front of the standing relationship that we believe in,” he explains.

Beach, 310.545.5405 restaurant and serve them a few minutes later,” he says.

Michael Voltaggio had an advantage over most chefs Savory 29169 At Maison Giraud, the affable chef keeps it simple and aspiring to open their own restaurants, namely the recog- Heathercliff Road, Malibu, 310.589.8997 approachable, offering café au lait and croissants in the nition earned by winning Bravo’s Top Chef in 2009. (The morning, an authentic croque monsieur sandwich at lunch $125,000 prize money didn’t hurt, either.) The intense Tar & Roses 602 Sanand bistro classics including steak au poivre in the evechef, a protégé of José Andrés, once cooked quietly but ta Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.587.0700 ning. Even closer to his heart is a simple, honest roasted spectacularly at the posh Langham Huntington Hotel & chicken dish named after his wife, Catherine. She sells Spa in Pasadena, in a sedate dining room that started Waterloo & City 12517 Washington Provençal table linens and other French accessories at her drawing food enthusiasts from all over L.A. But to the Blvd., Culver City, boutique, Lavender Blue, adjacent to the restaurant. dismay of the locals, the Langham was no place for this 310.391.4222 David LeFevre, who cooked at the Water Grill for six hip, heavily tattooed young gun, and he eventually signed years, left downtown for Manhattan Beach, where he has a lease for a more appropriate Westside location. lived since arriving in L.A. “I love Manhattan Beach and saw a great After seemingly an eternity of anticipation and hype, a Voltaggio opportunity for a neighborhood restaurant,” he says of M.B. Post, eatery opened, but not the one people were waiting for. It was Ink which is far more relaxed and casual than the places where this CharSack, a sandwich shop located around the corner from the dining lie Trotter protégé has spent most of his career. Dishes such as chilled room Voltaggio was renovating. However, it was an instant hit for English pea soup with a swirl of crème fraîche, red-curry-marinated small but delicious sandwiches, among them corned beef-tongue big-eye tuna tartare with puffed rice, and wood-grilled sword squid Reuben, pork belly bánh mì, and cold fried chicken drizzled with the with grapes are clean, smartly conceived dishes offered at reasonartisanal hot sauce Gindo’s Spice of Life. able prices. The laid-back LeFevre says that a few simple concepts Finally, the more formal dining room, Ink, opened about a year guide the restaurant. “Soulful, handcrafted and artisanal.... Those three ago. An urban, edgy study in gray, it lacks attitude and showcases words are the touchstones for all of our decisions.” the chef’s cerebral cooking style, which includes judicious amounts

kirschner, bruce james photography; snapper, rick poon

From left: Chef/owner Andrew Kirschner in his Santa Monica restaurant, Tar & Roses; fried chicken from Jeff Cerciello’s Farmshop in Santa Monica; chef/owner Victor Casanova at his restaurant, Gusto, on West 3rd Street; steamed Thai snapper at M.B Post, from chef and co-owner David LeFevre

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Dining American a/k/a an american bistro Menu inspired by California wine country cuisine; 40 wines by the glass.

Emphasis on house-made and house-cured ingredients in dishes such as PEI mussels with smoked Manila clams and house-made chorizo. L, D (daily). One Colorado, 24 E. Union St., Pasadena, 626.564.8111 $$ Map Q19 animaL Bare-bones eatery, from the guys known as the “Two Dudes” to Food Network fans, is a carnivore’s dream. Think delectable takes on offal (such as crispy pig’s ear) and a bacon-chocolate crunch bar for dessert. D (nightly). 435 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.782.9225 $$$ Map I13 cauLfieLd’s Thompson Beverly Hills’ literaryinspired American bistro offers comfort classics such as wild mushroom risotto and short rib ravioli. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). 9360 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.388.6860 $$$ Map J11 charLie’s Chophouse fare, upscale pizzas, seafood and pastas in a dining room/lounge with leopard-print décor. D (nightly). 22821 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.456.3231 $$$$ Map east of A1

pizza my heart

The classic pizzeria goes glam at Soleto Trattoria & Pizza Bar, Innovative Dining Group’s first restaurant concept to enter downtown.

Executive chef Sascha Lyon, a protégé of Michel Richard and Daniel Boulud, crafted a menu inspired by Southern Italian cuisine for the industrialchic restaurant replete with exposed beams, reclaimed wood floors and brick walls.

Crispy-crusted pizzas such as potato-and-bacon with fontina cheese, and a simple tomato pie with herbed goat cheese and wild arugula are prepared in an 800-degree wood-burning oven. Other dishes include pastas (e.g. the orechiette diavolo with house-made spicy sausage and rapini), paninis, salads and steaks. p. 73

craft New York chef Tom Colicchio of TV’s Top Chef brings his signature concept to L.A. The restaurant delivers an endless, contemporary American à la carte menu, with fun, shareable dishes including roasted octopus with romesco and diver scallops with vermouth butter. L (M–F), D (M–Sa). 10100 Constellation Blvd., L.A., 310.279.4180 $$$$ Map K11 eveLeigh With a menu chockablock with farm-fresh veggies and meats and a country-chic space, Eveleigh projects an image of cool rusticity. The kitchen endeavors to use house-made ingredients right down to the apple gomme syrup in your cocktail and the brioche toast slices with your Jidori chicken liver pâté. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 8752 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 424.239.1630 $$ Map H12 hard rock cafe Hard Rock can be counted on for fun, indulgent fare such as pulled pork sandwiches, twisted mac, chicken & cheese and barbecued ribs.

Memorabilia, artifacts and souvenirs from the on-site gift shop celebrate rock ‘n’ roll’s legends. L, D (daily).

Universal CityWalk, 1000 Universal Studios Blvd., Universal City, 818.622.7625; Hollywood & Highland Center, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.464.7625 $$ Map U19, H13 ink. L.A.’s culinary darling du jour, Top Chef winner Michael Voltaggio, showcases daring, thoughtful molecular gastronomy at his first restaurant. Get a five-course tasting menu or explore à la carte small plates including tuna with dashi “sponge,” poutine with lamb neck gravy and chickpea fries, and brussels sprouts with pig ears and cuttlefish. D (nightly).

8360 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.651.5866 $$$ Map I12 ivY restaurant This is one of the entertainment industry’s favorite gathering spots; if your face isn’t well known, be prepared for a cool reception. American comfort food is often deconstructed to suit the celebrity clientele. L.A.: L, D (daily); Ivy at the Shore: B, L, D (daily), Br (Su). 113 N. Robertson Blvd., L.A., 310.274.8303; Ivy at the Shore, 1535 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.393.3113 $$$ Map I11, L8 Jar Chef Suzanne Tracht presents an L.A. take on traditional, comforting American fare in a chic interpretation of an old-school chophouse. A meal might begin with crab-deviled eggs before moving on to the signature pot roast. Br (Su), D (nightly). 8225 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.655.6566 $$$ Map I12

Guidelines

Restaurants are listed by city on page 86. Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps in the back of this issue. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

Index

American .............................. 66 Breweries/Gastropubs.... 68 British...................................... 69 California............................... 69 Chinese....................................71 Eclectic/Fusion.....................71 French......................................72 Indian.......................................72 Italian .......................................72 Japanese ................................74

Korean .....................................74 Mediterranean.....................74 Mexican/Latin .....................74 Pan-Asian ..............................75 Quick Bites ............................76 Seafood...................................76 Spanish ...................................78 Steak ........................................78 Thai...........................................79

Joan’s on third Celebrity-frequented cafe on busy West 3rd Street offers omelets, sandwiches, salads, soups, sweets plus picnic baskets, gourmet items.

B, L, D (daily). 8350 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.655.2285 $ Map I12 LamiLL coffee boutiQue With its retro-chic design, unique coffee service and affordable menu, this is a laid-back, versatile eatery. Dishes such as Fiscalini cheddar grilled cheese are followed by exquisitely presented desserts such as made-to-order brioche doughnut holes. B, L, D (daily). 1636 Silverlake Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.663.4441 $$ Map W23 m.b. post Small plates of seafood, fresh-baked breads, cured meats and more in the space of a former post office. “Eat Your Vegetables” menu makes green beans, brussels sprouts and cauliflower look tantalizing.

Br (Sa–Su), L (F), D (nightly). 1142 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5405 $$$ Map L13 musso & frank griLL Hollywood’s oldest (1919).

Enjoy flannel cakes, lobster Thermidor and Welsh rarebit with the martini; legend has it that this place invented the drink. B, L, D (Tu–Sa). 6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.467.7788 $$ Map H13 noé Visitors heading to the Museum of Contemporary Art or Walt Disney Concert Hall find Noé a convenient spot for a classy repaste. Noé executive chef Glen Ishii serves “neo-bistro” menu with Mediterranean turbot meunière with sauteed watercress and rigatoni with house-cured sausage. D (nightly). Omni Hotel, 251 S. Olive St., downtown, 213.356.4100 $$ Map H16 the roYce Chef David Feau does molecular gastronomy and unconventional flavor combinations: lobster and pomegranate “hot and snow,” venison with plantain confit, porcini casserole with pear. D (Tu–Sa). The Langham Huntington Hotel, 1401 S. Oak Knoll Ave., Pasadena, 626.585.6410 $$$$ Map S20 saddLe peak Lodge Nestled in the Santa Monica Mountains, this hunt-lodge-themed spot is a study in romantic rusticity, with moose heads overlooking candlelit tables. The menu focuses on game dishes such as seared New Zealand elk tenderloin or grilled Texas nilgai antelope. Br (Su), D (W–Su). 419 Cold Canyon Road, Calabasas, 818.222.3888 $$$$ Map northwest of A1 simon L.a. Kerry Simon, Las Vegas’ acclaimed “rock ’n’ roll” chef, brings his fun-loving global cuisine to the Sofitel Los Angeles. Fare ranges from exotic to comfort, and it’s all innovative. Celebrate dessert with Simon’s signature “junk food sampler.” B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.358.3979 $$$ Map I12

In addition to hosting the county’s priciest boutiques, Two Rodeo shopping center boasts what is likely its finest sushi restaurant, Urasawa, where an omakase might cost $375 or more. p. 74

JESSICA BOONE

SPOTLIGHT

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hollywood on hollywood blvd. • +1-323-464-7625 at universal citywalk • +1-818-622-7625 hardrock.com ©2011 Hard Rock International (USA), Inc. All rights reserved. SeeTheShow™

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Dining smittY’s griLL Soul-warming American classics round out the menu here. Market-fresh fish, braised short rib and roast chicken are favorites. L (M–F), D (nightly). 110 S. Lake Ave., Pasadena, 626.792.9999 $$ Map R21 the strand house This South Bay new-comer with awesome ocean views is sophisticated enough to compete with any restaurant in L.A. County’s hipper parts. House-made charcuterie precedes dishes such as hamachi crudo and lobster cavatelli. Blueberry glazed doughnuts end the meal with a bang. Br (Sa–Su), L (Tu–F), D (Tu–Su). 117 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.7470 $$$ Map L13 true food kitchen Restaurant at Santa Monica Place offers health-conscious menu inspired by Dr. Andrew Weil’s diet principles. Several vegan and gluten-free options. Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). 395 Santa Monica Place, Santa Monica, 310.593.8300 $ Map M8 umami burger Hot specialty burger joint; try the signature Umami Burger with tempura onion rings.

(No alcohol served at La Brea Avenue location.) L, D (daily). 4655 Hollywood Blvd., Los Feliz, 323.669.3922; 1520 Cahuenga Blvd., Hollywood, 323.469.3100; Fred Segal, 500 Broadway, Santa Monica, 310.451.1300; 850 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.931.3000; 12159 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.286.9004; 1040 Hermosa Ave., Hermosa Beach, 310.214.8626; 2200 E. Thousand Oaks Blvd., Thousand Oaks, 805.413.8626; The Grove, 189 The Grove Drive, L.A., 323.900.8080 $ Map W22, H14, L8, J13, A2, L13, northeast of A1, I13 verticaL wine bistro Seventy wines by the glass, more than 400 on the list. New American menu plus fun small plates, cheeses and charcuterie. D (Tu–Su). 70 N. Raymond Ave. (upstairs), Pasadena, 626.795.3999 $$$ Map Q19

Breweries/Gastropubs father’s office Microbrew mecca; one of L.A.’s best burgers. Santa Monica: L (Sa–Su), D (nightly).

Culver City: L (F–Su), D (nightly). 1018 Montana Ave., Santa Monica; Father’s Office 2, 3229 Helms Ave., Culver City. 310.736.2224 $$ Map L8, L11 ford’s fiLLing station Rather than follow his father, Harrison, into the movie business, Benjamin Ford went to culinary school. Entree choices emphasize comfort pub fare: fish and chips, leg of lamb and a popular Maytag blue-cheese-topped burger. Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). 9531 Culver Blvd., Culver City, 310.202.1470 $$ Map L11 haven gastropub + brewerY L.A. importing an Orange County restaurant is rare, and so are the animals and exotic parts on Chef Greg Daniels’ menu, a love letter to meat. Begin with an appetizer of pork rillettes and end with red velvet beet cake. Many ingredients are house-made—even the truffle salt! L, D (daily). 42 S. De Lacey Ave., Pasadena, 626.768.9555 $$ Map Q19 kings row gastropub Pub staples such as fish ‘n’ chips get a gourmet update; there are also creative fusion dishes (e.g. duck sliders). Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). 20 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.793.3010 $$ Map Q19 LazY ox canteen With winning dishes such as crispy pig ear chicarrónes and fried Jidori hen, Lazy Ox’s cross-cultural gastropub-style offerings are always interesting. Spanish chef Perfecto Rocher is a third-generation paella maker. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 241 S. San Pedro St., Little Tokyo, 213.626.5299 $$ Map H17 Los angeLes brewing companY New. Meaty and straightforward pub grub (Southern fried chicken, honey-habanero hot wings, bacon-topped hot dogs) and 100 rotating taps of beer. Br (Su), L, D (daily). 750 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.622.0500 $$ Map I16

WE’VE STEAKED OUR CLAIM Prime Steak • Fine Wine • Private Dining • New Menu

Beverly Hills | Downtown LA | Burbank | Woodland Hills

mortons.com

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Dining public kitchen & Bar Meat-heavy but still refined menu includes chicken liver terrine with strawberryrhubarb marmalade sweetbreads; bar serves cured meats, cheeses and fresh, hand-crafted cocktails. Br (Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.466.7000 $$$ Map G13

British the parish New. Chef Casey Lane, the 29-year-old wunderkind of the Tasting Kitchen and James Beard Award nominee, imagines a contemporary English gastropub with quality, seasonal ingredients. Small plates include poutine pigs’ feet, roasted bone marrow, fried frogs legs with jalapeño slaw, and stout grilled sausages with pickled cherries. D (nightly). 840 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.225.2400 $$$ Map I16 Rose Tree Cottage Sweet, homey spot for English afternoon tea with gracious service from husband-andwife owners. Seatings at 1, 2:30 and 4 pm. Adjacent gift shop. Tea (Tu, F–Su). 801 S. Pasadena Ave., Pasadena, 626.793.3337 $$ Map R19 waterloo & City Located on an unremarkable strip in Culver City is this surprisingly hip English gastropub dishing out house-made charcuterie, gourmet pizzas topped with green chorizo and Indian butter chicken, and spot-on cocktails. It’s certainly L.A.’s most sophisticated pub grub. D (nightly). 12517 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.391.4222 $$ Map M10 Ye Olde King’s Head Pub/restaurant with cozy dining rooms, fish and chips, high tea, gift shop. B, L, D (daily), high tea (Sa). 116 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.451.1402 $ Map L8

California Cuisine AKASHA Chef-owner Akasha Richmond takes ecoconsciousness to new heights with sustainable décor and organic food ingredients “whenever possible.” The menu of comfort food includes humanely raised meats (e.g. Niman Ranch pork chops), but Richmond also does intriguing vegetarian plates. B, L (M–F), D (nightly). 9543 Culver Blvd., Culver City, 310.845.1700 $$ Map L11 Breeze Creative “grill cuisine,” plus sushi bar. Fabulous desserts; distinctive décor. Reservation recommended. B, L, D (daily). Hyatt Regency Century Plaza Hotel & Spa, 2025 Avenue of the Stars, Century City, 310.551.3334 $$$ Map J11 cafe 140 South California cuisine gets hearty at the redesigned and renamed Crocodile Cafe. Woodfired oven pizzas, thick hand-formed bugers, oakwoodgrilled meats. L, D (daily). 140 S. Lake Ave., Pasadena, 626.449.9900 $$ Map R21 Chaya The original Chaya in Japan remains open after 390 years, and Chaya’s popularity endures in Los Angeles, too. The Japanese-accented French/ Italian menus are accomplished and innovative.

L (M–F), D (nightly). 8741 Alden Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.859.8833; 525 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.236.9577; 110 Navy St., Venice, 310.396.1179 $$ Map I11, H16, M8 Chinois on Main The Asian-French cuisine at Chinois on Main, arguably Wolfgang Puck’s most exciting restaurant, still impresses. The design is loud—ditto the decibel level—but the relative discomfort hardly detracts from dishes such as Cantonese duck and whole gingerstuffed catfish. L (W–F), D (nightly). 2709 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.392.9025 $$$ Map M8 cooks county The owners of Silver Lake’s beloved Barbrix open another winner. An edited menu of pastas, seafood, braised and slow-roasted meats, and simple

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Dining starters lists the dozens of family farms from which the restaurant sources. The kitchen makes many of its own ingredients, down to condiments and cured meats. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 8009 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.653.8009 $$ Map I12 Eva rEstaurant Patina Group alum Mark Gold graciously serves creative, affordable Cal fare in intimate dining room. Family-style, prix fixe dinner on Sundays. Br (Su), L (F), D (W–Sa). 7458 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.634.0700 $$ Map I13 farmshop Cheery bakery and restaurant with a killer brunch—try salmon rillettes with caper berries and toasted rye. Three-course family-style dinners are served nightly, with the restaurant’s famous fried chicken the star of the meal on Sundays. B, L (M–F), Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). Brentwood Country Mart, 225 26th St., Santa Monica, 310.566.2400 $$ Map K8 fundamEntal l.a. This under-the-radar spot boasts a chef with a fine-dining pedigree and a seasonal menu more refined than its bare-bones space would suggest. The “plant” side of the menu might feature creamy carrot risotto with carrot butter, mint and Manchego cheese; the “animal” side, a Japanese sword squid with escarole salsa verde and chorizo. L (Tu–F), D (nightly). 1303 Westwood Blvd., Westwood, 310.444.7581 $$ Map J10

“An American Classic.”

- Zagat’s Survey Prime Steaks • Chops • Fresh Seafood Classic Salads • Hand-crafted Cocktails Homestyle Desserts

GEoffrEy’s Prettiest patio in paradise? Offers 180-degree Pacific views; creative seafood. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 27400 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.457.1519 $$$ Map northwest of K7 Gina lEE’s Bistro Unassuming but daring CalAsian eatery is among the South Bay’s best. D (Tu–Su).

211 Palos Verdes Blvd., Redondo Beach, 310.375.4462 $$ Map N13 hatfiEld’s Husband-and-wife chef team Quinn and Karen Hatfield combine their talents in the savory and sweet departments, respectively. Guests might dine on Quinn’s reinvented croque madame with yellowtail sashimi, prosciutto and quail egg, or Karen’s heavenly sugar-and-spice beignets. D (nightly). 6703 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.935.2977 $$$ Map I13 JoE’s Boisterous benchmark of Cal cuisine is an Abbot Kinney classic. Nicely edited menu with notable desserts.

Br (Sa–Su), L (Tu–F), D (Tu–Su). 1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.399.5811 $$$ Map M9

Fresh Seafood brought in daily.

mar’sEl Sustainable menu with produce and herbs from chef’s on-site garden. Overlooks sparkling peninsula. D (W–Su). Terranea Resort, 100 Terranea Way, Rancho Palos Verdes, 310.265.2836 $$$$ Map O13 michaEl’s Michael McCarty’s influential restaurant, opened in 1979, endures. Enjoy Kurobuta pork shank or 28-day-aged prime New York steak. L (M–F), D (M–Sa). 1147 3rd St., Santa Monica, 310.451.0843 $$$ Map L8 milo & olivE The husband-and-wife team behind Rustic Canyon opens a tiny, casual pizzeria and bakery.

Expect to make friends with your neighbors; seating is communal tables and bar only. Zoe Nathan’s desserts and pastries shouldn’t be missed. B, L, D (daily). 2723 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.453.6776 $$ Map K9 parkway Grill Handsome dining room; one of Pasadena’s best restaurants. Diverse menu includes tiger shrimp corndogs, prosciutto-and-arugula pizza, duck breast with cherry reduction. L (M–F), D (nightly). 510 S. Arroyo Pkwy., Pasadena, 626.795.1001 $$$ Map N16 polo lounGE Legendary celeb watering hole.

McCarthy salad is a perennial favorite; great people watching. Reservation recommended. B, D (daily), L (M–Sa), Br (Su). Beverly Hills Hotel, 9641 Sunset Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.887.2777 $$$ Map I11

Beverly Hills | (310) 276-0615 9560 Dayton Way Hollywood | (323) 856-5530 6801 Hollywood Blvd.

Westlake Village, CA | (805) 418-1760 120 E. Promenade Way For reservations and virtual tours: www.TheGrill.com

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Dining

LATIN-ASIAN CUISINE

“CHEF RICHARD SANDOVAL... the most successful latin chef in the world today.” hombre "GO TO SPOT" angeleno rooftop bar & lounge overlooking promenade happy hour | lunch | dinner | brunch 3-hr free valet santa monica place | 310.899.1000 | www.richardsandoval.com

restaurant at the gettY center Chic room, spectacular views of the Santa Monica Mountains and progressive fare at the hilltop museum. Br (Su), L (Tu–Sa), D (Sa). 1200 Getty Center Drive, L.A., 310.440.6810 $$$ Map H9 spago beverLY hiLLs Wolfgang Puck’s trailblazing flagship restaurant is remodeled and reimagined on the heels of its 30th anniversary. L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 176 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.385.0880 $$$ Map I11 tar & roses Ex-Wilshire Restaurant chef Andrew Kirschner’s first restaurant focuses on small, rustic shareable plates cooked in his wood-burning oven, but with a few days’ notice he can also whip up large, lavish familystyle suppers of Moroccan-spiced goat or standing rib rack. D (Tu–Su). 602 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.587.0700 $$$ Map L8 the tasting kitchen Hipster foodies come for the daily changing menu of innovative yet unpretentious cuisine from new culinary darling chef Casey Lane: small or large plates of cured meats, artisan cheeses, vegetables, seafood and pastas. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 1633 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.392.6644 $$$ Map M9 tavern Chef Suzanne Goin’s third L.A. restaurant explores rustic Cal fare in chic environs, including a popular sunlit indoor patio. The frequently changing menu might include “devil’s chicken” with leeks and mustard breadcrumbs or Arctic char with orange-fennel salad. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). 11648 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.806.6464 $$$ Map J9 208 rodeo Café spills onto cobblestone via at luxe Two Rodeo. A gem. Pan-Asian, French influences. B, L, D (daily). Two Rodeo, 208 Via Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.275.2428 $$ Map J11 westside tavern Chef Ben Cohn does rustic Cal fare.

Creamy chicken-liver mousse, excellent cocktails. Below Landmark Theatres. L, D (daily). Westside Pavilion, 10850 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.470.1539 $$ Map K10

Chinese cbs seafood Fine dim sum in a setting not quite so huge as others in Chinatown or Monterey Park. B, L, D (daily). 700 N. Spring St., Chinatown, 213.617.2323 $$ Map G17 mr. chow L.A. edition of sceney restaurants in New York and London. Imperial Beijing cuisine. L (M–F), D (nightly). 344 N. Camden Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.278.9911 $$$ Map I11 new capitaL seafood A sample of the Chinese cuisine treasures that await in San Gabriel Valley. Dim sum is worth the wait for a table. B, L, D (daily). Focus Plaza, 140 W. Valley Blvd, San Gabriel, 626.288.1899 $ Map B4 ocean seafood Vast and boisterous spot serves amazing array of traditional dishes, superfresh seafood, top-of-the-line dim sum. B, L, D (daily). 750 N. Hill St., Chinatown, 213.687.3088 $$ Map G17

CHEF RICHARD SANDOVAL “Best Mexican Food Chef” Huffington Post “Father of Modern Mexican Cuisine” Financial Times

Outdoor Patio Overlooking Promenade Open Air Dining Room Happy Hour | Lunch | Dinner | Brunch 3hr Free Valet Santa Monica Place | 310.393.3300 | www.richardsandoval.com

Eclectic/Fusion a-frame Roy Choi, whose Kogi launched a thousand food trucks, offers a bizarro comfort-food menu (beer-can chicken, furikake kettle corn) with Korean influences. List of craft beers and signature cocktails. L (Sa–Su), D (nightly).

12565 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.398.7700 $$ Map M10 asia de cuba Innovative Pan-Asian/Cuban menu at Mondrian hotel. Beautiful patio outside, chic white-onwhite décor inside. Artisan cocktails, ceviches and other raw bar dishes are new to the menu. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). 8440 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.8999 $$$ Map H12

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Dining Caviar blinis from Petrossian in West Hollywood

au vin. Br (Su), D (Wu–Su). 41 S. DeLacey Ave. Pasadena, 626.577.4141 $$$ Map Q19 ChuRCh & StAtE Located in the historic Biscuit Co. Lofts, this downtown eatery has a hip clientele— downtown residents and commuters waiting out rush hour—who crowd the dining room or linger on the patio to soak up the vibe of an authentic French brasserie.

L (M–F), D (nightly). 1850 Industrial St., downtown, 213.405.1434 $$ Map J17 COMME ÇA Chef David Myers has turned his attention to more casual French fare at this inviting brasserie with a sophisticated modern aesthetic. All the classics are here, including tarte flambé, escargot, coq au vin, bouillabaisse and duck confit. Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). 8479 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.782.1104 $$ Map I12

CAFE SIERRA Cal–Continental-Chinese menu, Vegasstyle dinner buffet and entertainment. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). Hilton Universal City, 555 Universal Hollywood Drive, Universal City, 818.509.2030 $$ Map U19 GORDON RAMSAY The tyrant from TV’s Hell’s Kitchen arrives in L.A. to demonstrate why he has racked up more than a dozen Michelin stars. The restaurant is a hip setting in which to enjoy eclectically inspired dishes.

Boxwood Café is adjacent. D (nightly). London West Hollywood, 1020 N. San Vicente Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.358.7788 $$$$ Map H11 MAISON AkIRA Fine French cuisine with Japanese flair (such as a bento box with Kobe beef, miso sea bass and chawanmushi) in Pasadena’s playhouse district. Ten-course omakase available. Br (Su), L (F), D (Tu–Su). 713 E. Green St., Pasadena, 626.796.9501 $$$ Map Q20 SuNNY SpOt New. Food-truck pioneer Roy Choi interprets Carribbean cuisine with explosive flavors and global influences. Playful small plates include “What a Jerk” chicken wings and the “We Be Yammin’ ” sweetpotato tart plus sweet-and-salty fried plantains and a pineapple pork chop with Red Stripe beer glaze. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 822 Washington Blvd., Venice, 310.448.8884 $$ Map N9 SuSAN FENIGER’S StREEt Feniger’s passion for the bold, unexpected flavors of global street food is the central concept at Street. Jamaican gingerbrew chicken and a brioche cheeseburger, perfect for sharing around the outdoor fire pit, have a place on the diverse menu. Br (Sa–Su), L (F), D (nightly). 742 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.203.0500 $$ Map I13 uMAMICAtESSEN New. The minds behind Umami Burger have created a dining-hall-style format with six eateries under one roof. Aside from Umami Burger are the Cure, inspired by kosher deli fare; chef Chris Cosentino’s Pigg, shilling all things pork; Spring for Coffee espresso bar; & a Doughnut, serving made-to-order doughnuts; and the Back Bar, which offers handcrafted cocktails and beers. L, D (daily). 852 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.413.8626 $ Map I16

French bOuChON The Bouchon bistros from chef Thomas Keller (the French Laundry, Per Se) have become popular for their authentic good looks and superbly executed cuisine. One might begin with salmon rillettes followed by poulet rôti or a croque madame. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (daily). 235 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.271.9910 $$$ Map J11 ChEvAl blANC bIStRO The Smith Brothers (Smitty’s Grill, Arroyo Chophouse) take on the classics of French bistro fare—bouillabaisse, steak frites, coq

DElphINE Just off the soaring lobby of the chic W Hollywood Hotel & Residences, demure Delphine establishes a laid-back ambience with vintage photo murals and wood barreled ceilings. Chef Sascha Lyon’s entrees include braised short ribs with roasted root vegetables.

B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). W Hollywood, 6250 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.798.1355 $$$ Map H13 kENDAll’S bRASSERIE Located at the Music Center, Kendall’s is a convenient spot before or after a performance. In addition to dishes with a contemporary flair, all the brasserie favorites are here: fruits de mer, moules frites and braised lamb shank. L (daily), D (Tu–Su; M varies). 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7322 $$ Map H16 thE lIttlE DOOR For a candlelit dinner in an elegant setting, this is the reservation ne plus ultra. Dine on rustic dishes under the stars or by a crackling fireplace in one of four intimate, romantic dining areas. D (nightly).

8164 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.951.1210 $$$ Map I12 MAISON GIRAuD Alain Giraud’s simple neighborhood restaurant dishes out classic bistro fare and specialties influenced by Alsace and his native Provence; wife Catherine runs the adjacent home-goods boutique, Lavender Blue. B, L, D (daily). 1032 Swarthmore Ave., Pacific Palisades, 310.459.7561 $$$ Map K7 MélISSE At Mélisse, consistently among L.A.’s highest-rated restaurants, chef-owner Josiah Citrin executes a sophisticated modern French menu filled with luxe ingredients. Start with lobster bolognese with black truffles before superb game dishes and selections from a nonpareil cheese cart. D (Tu–Sa). 1104 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.395.0881 $$$$ Map M8 pAlIhOuSE COuRtYARD bRASSERIE Located in a charming boutique hotel, this is a relaxed brasserie, attractive for a morning café au lait or a full supper.

Guests settle in at courtyard tables, enjoying fare such as moules frites and truffle chicken. B, L (daily), D (Tu– Sa). Palihouse Holloway, 8465 Holloway Drive, West Hollywood, 323.656.4020 $$$ Map H12 pAtINA The Walt Disney Concert Hall is a winning composition of impressive classical music offerings and fine dining at its in-house restaurant, Patina. Game dishes are a frequent presence on the menu, such as wood pigeon with yams, celeriac and pear. D (Tu–Sa). 141 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.3331 $$$$ Map H17 pEtROSSIAN Chef Giselle Wellman works with the brand’s signature caviar in creative ways. Highlights include caviar- and roe-topped blinis, vanilla panna cotta with espresso “caviar” (actually tapioca). B, L (daily), D (M–Sa). 321 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.271.6300 $$$ Map J12

Indian AkbAR CuISINE OF INDIA Extensive menu of Northern Indian fare. Santa Monica location is most stylish. L (M–F), D (nightly). Pasadena: L, D (daily). 44 N. Fair Oaks

Ave., Pasadena, 626.577.9916; 2627 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.586.7469; 3115 Washington Blvd., Marina del Rey, 310.574.0666; 1101 Aviation Blvd., Hermosa Beach, 310.937.3800 $ Map Q19, K9, N9, L13 tANZORE This sleek, modern restaurant takes Indian cuisine to a whole new level, with lighter technique, seasonal California ingredients and modern presentation in a dramatic dining room. The fare includes items such as seared tuna with toasted coriander atop avocado raita.

Br (Su), L, D (daily). 50 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.652.3894 $$$ Map J12

Italian ANGElINI OStERIA Hardly elegant or romantic, this is nonetheless one of L.A.’s premier Italian restaurants.

Chef-owner Gino Angelini demonstrates remarkable range and finesse, from sea-salt-crusted whole branzino to the heavenly lasagna in herb sauce he inherited from his grandmother. Reservation required for dinner, recommended for lunch. L (Tu–F), D (Tu–Su). 7313 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.297.0070 $$$ Map I13 bOttEGA lOuIE This palatial Italian restaurant, decked out in minimalist white marble, is a hip, noisy hall where young professionals and downtown hipsters convene over brick-oven-cooked pizzas and share small plates of portobello fries and clams casino. There’s a wee gourmet market and patisserie, too. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 700 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.802.1470 $$ Map I16 buCA DI bEppO Heaping, family-style portions. Call for hours. 80 W. Green St., Pasadena, 626.792.7272; 17500 Ventura Blvd., Encino, 818.995.3288; 1670 S. Pacific Coast Hwy., Redondo Beach, 310.540.3246; 1000 Universal Studios Blvd., Universal City, 818.509.9463; bucadibeppo.com for more locations. $$ Map Q21, A1, M14, U20 CECCONI’S This London-based restaurant caters to a well-heeled clientele who come to schmooze over bellinis and ciccheti (small plates). Pastas including a beautiful artichoke tortelli and seafood such as grilled octopus with capers are well executed. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). 8764 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 310.432.2000 $$$ Map I12 CICADA This art deco jewel is a perfect specialoccasion spot. Diners enter through magnificent Lalique doors into a room with gold-leaf ceilings and a grand staircase. The modern Italian cooking includes creations such as grilled lamb with apple tempura and horseradish sauce. D (W–F). 617 S. Olive St., downtown, 213.488.9488 $$$ Map I16 CulINA A contemporary take on regional Italian cuisine is the theme at Culina, where ample coastal inspirations are evident on the menu. The modern design includes a sleek crudo bar and an impressive 25-foot chandelier.

B (daily), L (M–Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su). Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 300 S. Doheny Drive, L.A., 310.860.4000 $$$ Map J12 DOMINICk’S Retro Rat Pack vibe inside, airy brick patio with herb garden outside. Intriguing takes on the old favorites: linguine with lemon and chanterelles, wood-grilled burger with crispy speck and burrata.

D (nightly). 8715 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.652.2335 $$ Map I12 DRAGO CENtRO Deftly executed Italian fare—garganelli with pork sausage and fennel seeds, truffle-crusted Jidori chicken—and extensive wine list in a contemporary and handsome space. L (M–F), D (nightly). 525 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.228.8998 $$$ Map H16 Il CIElO Frolicking cherubs, 50,000 twinkling lights, flowered courtyard with retractable glass roof. 1,500 couples have married here. Even the food is romantic.

L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 9018 Burton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.276.9990 $$$ Map I11

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Dining Il Fornaio Trattoria-style favorites; adjoining bakeries offer pastries, sandwiches to take out. Beverly Hills: B, L, D (daily). Manhattan Beach: Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). Santa Monica: Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). Pasadena: Br (Su), L, D (daily). 301 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.550.8330; 1800 Rosecrans Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.725.9555; 1551 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.451.7800; 1 Colorado, Pasadena, 626.683.9797 $$ Map J11, L13, L8, Q19 il grano Elegant Il Grano has emerged as one of L.A.’s finest Italian restaurants. Its menu emphasizes superb seafood, from crudo—sashimi-grade raw dishes—to squid-ink pasta with sea urchin sauce. The wine program matches the high standards of the kitchen.

L (M–F), D (M–Sa). 11359 Santa Monica Blvd., West L.A., 310.477.7886 $$$ Map K9 matteo’s An old favorite of the Rat Pack endures.

Burrata campana salad, mussels in white wine, ossobuco Milanese. D (Tu–Su). 2321 Westwood Blvd., L.A., 310.475.4521 $$ Map K10 mr. c restaurant From the Cipriani family, which founded Venice’s legendary Harry’s Bar, Mr. C Restaurant features a timeless, sophisticated setting with Venetian chandeliers, travertine floors and rich rosewood. The menu offers classic Cipriani dishes such as beef carpaccio and baked tagliolini, plus the bellini made famous at Harry’s. B, L, D (daily).

1224 S. Beverwil Drive, L.A., 310.226.6245 $$$$ Map K11 OSTERIA MOZZA Famed L.A.-based bread maker Nancy Silverton teamed up with affable Mario Batali on Mozza’s duo of contemporary Italian restaurants.

Osteria Mozza is a more sophisticated dining room in which to experience the repertoire of these great transcontinental talents. D (nightly). 6602 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.0100 $$$ Map H13 paparazzi ristorante Contemporary Italian, steaks and comforting sides. D (M–Sa). Sheraton Gateway Hotel, 6101 Century Blvd., Westchester, 310.642.4820 $$ Map O11 Pizzeria Mozza The other half of Nancy Silverton and Mario Batali’s Mozza, Pizzeria Mozza is a more relaxed dining experience, and it’s far easier to get a table than at its sibling, Osteria Mozza, next door.

It features pizzas with Mediterranean ingredients, cheeses and salumi plates, and rustic daily specials.

L, D (daily). 641 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.297.0101 $$ Map H13 scarpetta Scott Conant’s much-lauded NYC-based concept is replicated at the Montage Beverly Hills hotel. Conant is deservedly famous for dishes such as a simple, unbeatable spaghetti with tomato and basil.

Br (Su), D (nightly). 225 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.860.7970 $$$ Map I11 soleto trattoria & PIZZA BAR New. Contemporary Southern Italian in spacious, warehouse-chic environs. Antipasti such as grilled oyster mushrooms sprinkled white with truffle oil precede gourmet pizzas (potato-and-bacon, spicy smoked speck) and pastas accented with house-made sausages. L (M–F), D (M–Sa). 801 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.622.3255 $$ Map I16 SOTTO Contemporary southern Italian in a subterranean space. Start with the blistered Little Gem lettuce with breadcrumbs and aged caprino sardo; move on to whole grilled orata or house-made casarecce with softboiled egg and lamb ragù. A half-dozen pizzas, too.

L (W–F), D (Tu–Su). 9575 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.277.0210 $$$ Map J11 Tra di noi Mainstay restaurant at the Malibu Country Mart; pastas made in-house daily. L, D (daily). 3835 Cross Creek Road, Malibu, 310.456.0169 $$$ Map K7

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Dining many dishes with beguiling Peruvian accents. Sakes and omakase feasts result in soaring tabs, but the cuisine measures up. D (nightly). 903 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.5711; Nobu Malibu, 22706 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.317.9140 $$$$ Map H12, east of A1 SUGARFISH Kazunori Nozawa—aka the “Sushi Nazi,” chef/owner of Studio City’s famed former Sushi Nozawa—opens a cheery, casual spot offering preset menus. Tips are included, but prices are about half those at the original. L, D (daily). 47221/4 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey, 310.306.6300; 11640 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.820.4477; 600 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.627.3000; 1345 2nd St., Santa Monica, 310.393.3338 $$ Map N9, K9, I16, L8

Valentino For more than 30 years, Piero Selvaggio has maintained his flagship’s status as a preeminent temple of Italian gastronomy. A telephone-book-sized wine list—often cited as America’s best—is supported by a cellar containing more than 100,000 bottles. L (F), D (M–Sa). 3115 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.829.4313 $$$$ Map L9

Japanese aburiya toranoko Sushi and izakaya. Noodles, sumiyaki; daring fare such as monkfish-liver pâté and grilled whole squid. L (M-F), D (nightly). 243 S. San Pedro St., Little Tokyo, 213.621.9500 $$ Map H17 ASANEBO Hidden in a minimall but Michelinrated, this cozy sushi bar and restaurant offers memorable sushi, seared toro in garlic cream and uni tempura in shiso leaf. L (Tu–F), D (Tu-Su).

11941 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.760.3348 $$ Map A1 Benihana This restaurant sees teppanyaki chefs slicing and dicing at each table and grilling up simple fare such as tender steak and chicken, savory vegetables, and shrimp and lobster, which is delivered sizzling to diners’ plates. Encino: L, D (daily). Beverly Hills: L, D (daily). Torrance: L, D (daily). Santa Monica: L, D (daily).

38 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 323.655.7311; 1447 4th St., Santa Monica, 310.260.1423; Encino, 818.788.7121; Torrance, 310.316.7777 $$ Map I12, L8, G9, M14 Katsuya Sushi chef Katsuya Uechi turns out exotic delicacies in sultry spaces by designer Philippe Starck. From signature cocktails to king crab cooked over the robata grill to exotically flavored crème brûlées, Katsuya is never boring. L (varies by location), D (nightly). Downtown: D (nightly). 11777 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.207.8744; 6300 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.871.8777; 702 Americana Way, Glendale, 818.244.5900; L.A. Live, 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.747.9797 $$$ Map K9, H14, northeast of T23, I15 Katsu-ya Top sushi bar along the Valley’s Sushi Row; no-frills décor. Expect a crowd. Studio City: L (M–Sa), D (nightly). Encino: L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 11680 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.985.6976; 16542 Ventura Blvd., Encino, 818.788.2396 $$ Map U18, A1 Matsuhisa Superchef Nobu Matsuhisa’s more modest original flagship incorporates luxurious Western ingredients and Latin American spices. Monkfish liver pâté with caviar and Chilean sea bass with truffles are just a couple of his creations. L (M–F), D (nightly). 129 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.659.9639 $$$$ Map I12 NOBU The glitzy flagship of Nobu Matsuhisa attracts celebrities as well as serious foodies. An extensive menu of traditional and avant-garde sushi includes

Sushi Roku Nouvelle Japanese, sleek décor. Creative menu includes albacore tacos, salmon sashimi with black truffles shaved tableside. L.A.: L (M–Sa), D (nightly); Santa Monica and Pasadena: L, D (daily). 8445 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.655.6767; 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.4771; 33 Miller Alley, Pasadena, 626.683.3000 $$$ Map I12, L8, Q19 sushi sasabune Don’t ask for a California or spicy tuna roll—you’ll be swiftly denied—but do expect incredibly fresh, authentically prepared sushi. The impressive omakase is recommended. L (M–F), D (M–Sa). 12400 Wilshire Blvd., West L.A., 310.820.3596 $$$$ Map K9 Urasawa If you’re serious about sushi, make a date to sit at the maple bar of Urasawa. Here you’ll be treated to an incredible omakase dinner—don’t even ask about price— that features the freshest, most artfully presented sushi, sashimi and shabu-shabu dishes. Reservation required. D (Tu–Sa). 218 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.247.8939 $$$$ Map I11

Korean chosun galbee Korean barbecue restaurant offers a more upscale ambience than most, with an elegant open-air patio. L, D (daily) 3330 W. Olympic Blvd., Koreatown, 323.734.3330 $$$ Map soot bull jeep One of K-Town’s best, with all manner of savory meats cooked on tabletop grills. L, D (daily). 3136 W. 8th St., Koreatown, 213.387.3865 $$ Map east of J14

cafe del rey Ogle impressive pleasure boats in the marina at this waterfront restaurant with plentiful fresh catch and a raw bar. Br (Su), L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 4451 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey, 310.823.6395 $$$ Map N9 Campanile Chef-owner Mark Peel’s first restaurant is an enduring L.A. favorite. Peel offers such starters as duck meatballs, followed by grilled prime rib. Go on Thursday nights for a sampling of gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 624 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.938.1447 $$$ Map J13 cleo The SBE group’s noisy mezze bar is an unquestionable high point of the Hollywood dining scene. Chef Daniel Elmaleh’s eastern and southern Mediterranean small plates include kebabs of pork belly and blood sausage and wood-burned flatbreads. Cocktails are expensive but irresistible. D (nightly). The Redbury, 1717 Vine St., Hollywood, 323.962.1711 $$$ Map H14 fig & Olive New York-based restaurant’s cuisine is an ode to olive oil: pumpkin sage ravioli drizzled with porcini olive oil, grilled branzino glazed with fig and picholine olive oil. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 8490 Melrose Place, L.A., 310.360.9100 $$$ Map I12 GJELINA Under the direction of talented young chef Travis Lett, hipster servers in T-shirts and newsboy caps serve seasonal Cal-Med small plates and pizzas to chic Westsiders. It’s one of Venice’s most popular restaurants and the neighborhood’s most lively patio.

Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1429 $$ Map N9 Lucques Chef-owner Suzanne Goin delivers the next generation of California cuisine, which includes dishes such as turmeric-spiced root vegetable tagine, and grilled club steak for two with potatoes parisienne.

Nowhere do vegetables taste as good! L (Tu–Sa), D (nightly). 8474 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.655.6277 $$$ Map I13 mezze Mediterranean and Middle Eastern small plates. Signature dishes are yellowtail crudo with toasted pine nuts and cherry gremolata, and flatbreads topped with merguez sausage and tomato jam. L (Tu–F), D (nightly). 401 La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.657.4103 $$$ Map I12

Mediterranean

PETROS Fine contemporary Greek fare in a cool white dining room or on the covered patio. Dress code for indoor diners. L, D (daily). 451 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.4100 $$$ Map L13

AOC Explore a Mediterranean-inspired menu at the eatery that pioneered two L.A. culinary trends: the small-plates format and the wine bar. Chef-owner Suzanne Goin offers addictive bacon-wrapped, Parmesan-stuffed dates and an excellent selection of cheeses and cured meats from a charcuterie bar. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 8022 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.653.6359 $$ Map I12

ray’s & Stark bar Petite, Renzo Piano–designed eatery at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. Contemporary Med-inspired cuisine including vegetables cooked in wood-burning oven. Adjacent Stark Bar offers designer cocktails on an outdoor patio. L, D (Th–Tu). 5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.857.6180 $$ Map J13

artisan house Restaurant-bar-market-deli under one roof emphasizes products from local farms and artisan producers. Seasonal Cal-Med entrees include egg tartine, crispy grilled saltwater trout, various flatbreads; molecular mixology at the bar. Br (Sa–Su), L, D (M–Sa). 600 S. Main St., downtown, 213.622.6333 $$$ Map I6

Mexican/Latin

babouch moroccan RESTAURANT Transport yourself to Marrakech with traditional Moroccan fare (brochettes, couscous) and entertainment from belly dancers and tarot-card readers. D (Tu–Su). 810 S. Gaffey St., San Pedro, 310.831.0246 $$ Map O14 barbrix Of the small-plate eateries, this restaurant, in a converted schoolhouse, is one of the best. Solo diners eat at the bar while couples relax on a charming patio and revelers toast near an exhibition kitchen.

Among the standouts are pappardelle with pork and pancetta ragú. D (nightly). 2442 Hyperion Ave., Silver Lake, 323.662.2442 $$$ Map east of W23

Border Grill At Border Grill, chefs Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger combine their unabashed love for Mexico’s market vendors, home cooks and taco stands. The result: bold, fresh and innovative Mexican cuisine. The downtown location offers a free shuttle to L.A. Live and the Music Center. Santa Monica: Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). Downtown: L (M–F), D (nightly). 1445 4th St., Santa Monica, 310.451.1655; 445 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.486.5171 $$ Map L8, H16 casa azul cantina Named for the home shared

by Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, the regional specialties of the Yucatán, Oaxaca and Baja are offered in a chic dining room awash in blues and turquoises.

L, D (daily). 10853 Lindbrook Drive, Westwood, 310.209.0666 $$ Map J10

ROB STARK PHOTOGRAPHY

Arugula salad with Medjool dates and blood oranges at Lucques in West Hollywood

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Dining 1020 n. SAn Vicente BlVd

1810 An eclectic menu features specialties from the Americas and Italy—everything from Argentine sausage to sauteed zucchini, plus some reasonably priced steaks— in casual, brick-clad environs. L, D (daily). 121 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.795.5658 $$ Map Q20

weSt hOllywOOd, cA 90069

frida Stylish alta cocina Mexicana. Highlights include a mole tasting platter, a multitude of tacos and traditional cochinita pibil. L, D (daily). 236 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.278.7666; 750 Americana Way, Glendale, 818.551.1666 $$$ Map I11, southeast of T23 maLo Más Malo combines architectural splendor—it’s in a restored 1920s building—with 21st-century, Mexico City-meets-L.A. décor and cuisine. The original Malo in Silver Lake is less glam, but also hip. Malo: Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly); Más Malo: Br (Sa-Su), L (M–F), D (nightly).

4326 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.664.1011; 515 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.985.4332 $$ Map south of W23, I16 mo-chica New. The Peruvian food-court stand that earned Ricardo Zarate the title of Best New Chef from Food & Wine is reinvented as a fine-dining destination.

Comfort-food small plates populate the menu; check out the traditional lomo saltado or the alpaca stew topped with a fried egg. D (M–Sa). Mercado la Paloma, 3655 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.747.2141 $ Map K15

BRilliAnt cuiSine S AV O R e x q u i S i t e c u i S i n e f R O m t h e c u l i n A R y t e A m O f G O R d O n R A m S Ay

For reservations, call 310.358.7788 or visit us at TheLondonWestHollywood.com/Gordon-Ramsay

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Lunch • Dinner • cocktaiLs

picca Ricardo Zarate’s second Peruvian restaurant has grand ambitions and a Japanese twist, with a more dressed-up dining room and larger menu featuring small plates of ceviches, tiraditos, anticuchos and Peruvianstyle sushi. Mezzanine bar serves pisco cocktails. D (M–Su). 9575 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.277.0133 $$ Map J11

pLaYa “Urban Latin” small plates from chef John Sedlar.

Tapas include maize cakes with fillings such as shrimp, Napa cabbage and mustard ice cream; flower-inlaid tortillas are a Sedlar signature. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 7360 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.933.5300 $$ Map I13 8/2/12 5:41 PM red o Rick Bayless, one of the leading authorities on Mexican cuisine in America, is consulting chef at this sexy, transporting Melrose eatery. Many of his thoughtful dishes are grounded in tradition, such as Pacific sole and Mazatlan blue shrimp ceviches and cochinita pibil. Br (Su), D (nightly). 8155 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.655.5009 $$$ Map I12 rivera Chef John Sedlar showcases his flair for pan-Latin flavors and attention to detail; consider the housemade nixtamal tortillas inlaid with edible flowers or plates with designs stenciled in spices. A pioneer of the cocktail movement, Rivera has an unbeatable tequila bar. L (M–F), D (nightly). 1050 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.749.1460 $$$ Map I16

Pan-Asian crustacean A glass-covered koi-filled stream meanders under the bar at this Cal-Vietnamese eatery, and diners indulge in items from a “secret kitchen” in which only the owners’ family members are allowed. The garlic noodles are a signature. L (M–F), D (nightly). 9646 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.205.8990 $$$ Map I11

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Lukshon Sang Yoon of Father’s Office opens a slick Southeast Asian eatery with a selection of craft beers and Far East-inspired cocktail program. L (Tu–F), D (M–Sa). 3239 Helms Ave., Culver City, 310.202.6808 $$$ Map K12 red medicine The progressive Vietnamese restaurant doesn’t hew to traditions, but the results are intriguing—and visually delicious—presentations. The menu also includes some Pan-Asian dishes such as chicken dumplings, green papaya salad and lamb belly with hoisin sauce. Open late. D (nightly). 8400 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 323.651.5500 $$$ Map J12

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Dining

is the spot

the spice table Dishes inspired by Singaporean and Vietnamese traditions: satays, noodle soups, clay pot catfish, grilled or wood-burned vegetables. L, D (M–Sa). 114 S. Central Ave., Little Tokyo, 213.620.1840 $$ Map H17 wp24 From its 24th-floor roost, WP24 proves that Wolfgang Puck, who pioneered Asian fusion, has still got the goods. The restaurant might offer downtown’s best skyline views. Highlights include “Not Too Classic” hot and sour soup and steamed bao filled with pork belly. D (nightly). The Ritz-Carlton, Los Angeles, 900 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.743.8824 $$$$ Map I15 Yamashiro This restaurant occupies a replica of a Kyoto palace with a garden court and city views, making it special before you even look at the menu.

Cal-Asian fare includes miso salmon with lemon mashed potatoes and yuzu-avocado jumbo prawns.

D (nightly). 1999 N. Sycamore Ave., Hollywood, 323.466.5125 $$$ Map G13

Quick Bites the apple pan Move quickly to grab a seat at the counter of this tiny joint, open since 1927. Burger aficionados wax on about the classic, drippy Steakburger and Hickoryburger. Cash only. Open late. L, D (Tu–Su). 10801 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.475.3585 $ Map K10 in-n-out SoCal’s iconic burgers, cooked to order—try the off-menu “animal style”—plus fries and shakes. Seating and drive-through. Open late. B, L, D (daily). 7009 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood, 800.786.1000 and 10 other locations $ Map H13 philippe the original The purported birthplace of French dip sandwich, this down-home cafeteria is an L.A. institution, established in 1908. Try the 45-cent coffee. Cash only. B, L, D (daily). 1001 N. Alameda St., downtown, 213.628.3781 $ Map G17

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pink’s hot dogs There’s a perpetual queue in front of this hot dog stand, open since 1939, which serves 30 kinds of dogs and chili cheeseburgers, too. Open late.

B, L, D (daily). 709 N. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.931.4223 $ Map I13 tender greens Cafeterialike concept serves tasty salads and comforting “hot plates” with proteins, greens and buttery mashed potatoes. L, D (daily).

9523 Culver Blvd., Culver City, 310.842.8300; 8759 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.358.1919; 6290 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood, 323.382.0380; 201 Arizona Ave., Santa Monica, 310.587.2777 $ Map L11, I12, H14, L8 the veggie grill Cheery, fast-casual vegan restaurant that even carnivores can enjoy. L, D (daily). 8000 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.822.7575; 2025 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.829.1155; Plaza El Segundo, 720 Allied Way, El Segundo, 310.535.0025; 2533 Pacific Coast Hwy., Torrance, 310.325.6689 $ Map H12, L8, C2, N14

Best Mexican Food!

Patio Dining • Happy Hour Full Bar • Lunch Specials • Catering

10853 Lindbrook Dr. Los Angeles, CA (310) 209-0666

wurstkÜche Don’t even try to pronounce it—”the sausage place” will do. Arts District bar/restaurant offers thick-cut Belgian fries and a repertory of exotic franks: rattlesnake and rabbit, alligator and pork andouille. Open late. L, D (daily). 800 E. 3rd St., downtown; 625 Lincoln Blvd., Venice. 213.687.4444 $ Map I17, M9

Seafood blue plate oYsterette Oceanfront cafe offers a very respectable lobster roll (served with mayo or butter) and other New England specialties, plus a variety of seasonal oysters. L, D (daily). 1355 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.576.3474 $$ Map L8

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Dining catch Minimalist Catch’s centerpiece is a beautiful, mother-of-pearl sushi bar, but raw fish is just the beginning. Try exquisite cooked preparations such as skate wing and braised pork cheeks with an extraordinary view of the Pacific Ocean. B, L, D (daily). 1910 Ocean Way, Santa Monica, 310.581.7714 $$$ Map M8 duke’s maLibu Named after the father of international surfing, Duke Kahanamoku, this oceanfront restaurant captures the spirit of aloha. Not to be outshone by the spectacular views is the cuisine, which features a daily selection of fresh fish and tropical cocktails. Br (Su), L (M–Sa), D (nightly).

21150 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.317.0777 $$ Map west of K7 gLadstone’s maLibu One of SoCal’s biggest hits with a million visitors each year. Dramatic ocean views. B (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). 17300 Pacific Coast Hwy., Pacific Palisades, 310.454.3474 $$ Map west of K7 the hungrY cat East Coast fare in hip little spots.

Dungeness crab benedict; you-peel or they-peel shrimp by the half-pound. Hollywood: Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly); Santa Monica: D (nightly). Sunset+Vine, 1535 N. Vine St., Hollywood, 323.462.2155; 100 W. Channel Road, Santa Monica, 310.459.3337 $$ Map H14, L7 the Lobster Enjoy a view of the Pacific while indulging in superlative seafood from this Santa Monica Pier-adjacent restaurant. The outdoor patio is most coveted for sampling the eponymous crustacean in various iterations. Chef Collin Crannell does a fine job with other seafood dishes, too. L, D (daily).

1602 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.9294 $$$ Map L8

Experience a FRESH APPROACH

mccormick & schmick’s Classy wood, glass and brass space; seafood any way you like it. Happy hour. L (varies by location), D (nightly). 206 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.859.0434; 111 N. Los Robles Ave., Pasadena, 626.405.0064; 633 W. 5th St., downtown, 213.629.1929; 2101 Rosecrans Ave., El Segundo, 310.416.1123 $$ Map Q19, I11, H16, L13 parkers’ Lighthouse This casually elegant restaurant’s waterfront location affords 360-degree views of Long Beach Harbor. Menu offerings include a wide selection of seafood—stuffed Atlantic salmon, Alaskan king crab legs, inventive sushi—plus traditional chophouse fare such as USDA Prime steaks. L, D (daily). 435 Shoreline Village Drive, Long Beach, 562.432.6500 $$ Map N16 providence Chef-owner Michael Cimarusti transforms seafood from the world’s most pristine waters into inventive dishes such as kampachi with miso, buttermilk and green grapes, and striped bass with bacon and Bordelaise sauce. Outstanding cocktails complement Michelin-recognized cuisine. L (F), D (nightly). 5955 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.460.4170 $$$$ Map I14

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roY’s Chef Roy Yamaguchi began cooking his innovative Pacific Rim cuisine in L.A. many years ago, well ahead of his time. He returns as a superstar, with a chain of contemporary Hawaiian-inspired restaurants.

D (nightly). Downtown: L (M–F), D (nightly). 800 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.488.4994; 6363 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills, 818.888.4801; 641 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.356.4066 $$$ Map I16, west of A1, Q21 son of a gun Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, the meat-loving chefs at Animal, turn to the sea for new inspiration. They cook up small shareable plates such as salmon collar, miniature lobster rolls and shrimp toast sandwiches in a nautically themed space. L (M–F), D (nightly). 8370 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.782.9033 $$$ Map I12

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Dining Water Grill Downtown’s premier seafood restaurant is famed for its huge platters of fruits de mer from the oyster bar. Low-temperature cooking methods are used in dishes such as sauteed Columbia River sturgeon, yielding sensational results. There’s no corkage fee, so why not BYOB? L (M–F), D (nightly).

544 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.891.0900 $$$$ Map H16

Spanish Bar PiNtXO Prominent California chef Joe Miller (Joe’s) offers authentic tortilla Española, bacalao and croquetas de jamón and Spanish wines. L, D (daily).

109 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.458.2012 $$ Map M8 tHe BaZaar BY JOSé aNdréS Star chef José Andrés brings whimsical set of Spanish-style dining experiences to the eminently stylish SLS Hotel. Cuisine ranges from rustic fare to the molecular gastronomy creations that have made Spain a culinary leader.

Tasting room Saam offers an unforgettable 22-course prix fixe menu. D (nightly). 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.246.5555 $$$ Map H16

Be magically transported to colorful Morocco and the beginning of a never ending feast. Babouch serves exquisite, authentic Moroccan cuisine in a tent like atmosphere with belly dancing nightly. Specialties include lamb, brochette of beef, cous cous, seafood and shrimp.

Cafe Sevilla Authentic Spanish fare and tapas bar on a bustling strip in downtown Long Beach.

Dinner show on Saturdays; nightclub upstairs. D (nightly).

140 Pine Ave., Long Beach, 562.495.1111 $$ Map N16 PriMitivO WiNe BiStrO Fun tapas, extensive wine list and festive vibe. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly).

1025 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.396.5353 $$$ Map M9

BabouchRestaurant.com • 810 S. Gaffey St., San Pedro • 310 831 0246

Steak

Blt SteaK This winning formula on the Sunset Strip proves that the French bistro and the Americanbabouch_0712v1.indd 1 steakhouse can be seamlessly blended. After appetizers such as tuna tartare or the complimentary Gruyère cheese popovers, steaks are the main attraction, ranging from ultrapricey Kobe to domestic Angus beef.

D (Tu–Sa). 8720 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.360.1950 $$$$ Map H12

5/31/12 1:33 PM

BOa Way hip, way fine steakhouse. Steak rubs and dips; out-there cocktails. Santa Monica: L, D (daily); West Hollywood: L (M–F), D (nightly). 101 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.899.4466; 9200 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.278.2050 $$$ Map M8, H11 Cut A collaboration between Getty Center architect Richard Meier and celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck, Cut is the place to savor genuine Kobe beef steaks ($120plus) or dry-aged Nebraska beef. Puck’s menu is short on nostalgia but long on flavor. D (M–Sa). Beverly Wilshire Hotel, 9500 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.276.8500 $$$$ Map J11

ZAGAT RATED

fOGO de CHãO After a trip to a massive saladappetizer bar, guests are treated to an endless procession of meats carved right onto their plates. L (M–F), D (nightly). 133 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.289.7755 $$$ Map J12 tHe Grill ON tHe alleY The Grill is a venerable industry hangout, where the maître d’ juggles Hollywood heavyweights, each demanding his favorite table for deal-making lunches. Polished waiters deliver steaks, Cobb salads and chicken pot pies in a dining room with classic good looks. Beverly Hills: L (M–Sa), D (nightly); Hollywood: L, D (daily), Br (Su); Thousand Oaks: L, D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.276.0615; The Grill on Hollywood, Hollywood & Highland Center, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.856.5530; 120 E. Promenade Way, Thousand Oaks, 805.418.1760 $$$ Map I11, H13, north of A10

2011Excellent

french cuisine with a japanese flair

713 east gr een str eet pasadena 626 796 9501 m a i s o n a k i r a . n e t

78 WHERELA.COM Maison Akira_0911v1.indd 1

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Dining

YE OLDE KING'S HEAD

World Famous British Pub, Restaurant & Shoppe

Lawry’s the Prime rib A Restaurant Row classic. Prime rib, to-die-for creamed corn and spinach served with showmanship from table-side carts. D (nightly). 100 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.652.2827 $$$ Map I12 mastro’s steakhouse Swanky “steakhouse with personality.” Bone-in-filet reigns; warm butter cake melts in your mouth. D (nightly). 246 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.888.8782 $$$ Map J11

British Fare, imported beers and world famous Fish & Chips.

Open for breakfast weekends at 8am, Fabulous happy hour Mon–Fri 4-7pm.

Traditional Afternoon Tea is served Saturdays 2-5pm. Karaoke Sundays at 9pm.

Heated patio. Quiz shows every Wednesday. Call for soccer schedule.

Stop by the gift shoppe for food and collectibles from the British Isles, including bone china, teapots, souvenir items, tea, candy, wine, cheese and much more.

Nick & stef’s A modern interpretation of the classic American steakhouse, Nick & Stef’s offers architecturally exciting dining rooms and a wraparound patio lounge that’s a favorite of downtown workers waiting out traffic. USDA Prime beef is aged on-site in a glass-encased aging chamber. L (M–F), D (nightly). Wells Fargo Building, 330 S. Hope St., downtown, 213.680.0330 $$$ Map H16 Pacific DiNiNg car Filet mignon at 3 am? It can be had at L.A.’s grandest 24-hour eatery, open since 1921. B, L, D (daily). 1310 W. 6th St., downtown, 213.483.6000; 2700 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.453.4000 $$$ Map H16, K8 ruth’s chris steak house Ruth’s Chris Steak House serves superfine Midwestern corn-fed beef, broiled in 1,800-degree ovens and served sizzling on 500-degree plates. Although steak is king, the menu also includes expertly executed seafood, lamb, pork and poultry dishes. L (varies), D (nightly).

224 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.859.8741; 369 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.583.8122 $$$ Map I11, Q20

11 6 S a n t a M o n i c a B l v d .

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Winner “Top 10 Best Italian Restaurant in L.A.!” -Citysearch

the stiNkiNg rose “We season our garlic with food,” from Gartini cocktail to garlic ice cream.

40-Clove Garlic Chicken, Silence of the Lamb Shank, Vladimir’s Garlic “Stakes” menu with six steak options.

L, D (daily). 55 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.652.7673 $$ Map I12 stk Sultry steakhouse for the young crowd, with fun appetizers such as shrimp “rice krispies” and Wagyu beef sliders. Open-air lounge with DJ. D (nightly). 755 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.659.3535 $$$$ Map I12 woLfgaNg’s steakhouse Chef Wolfgang Zwiener opens outpost of his New York steakhouse.

Try the dry-aged porterhouse steak for two, three or four. L (M–F), D (nightly). 445 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.385.0640 $$$$ Map J11

Thai NataLee thai Traditional Thai dishes are served amid edgy, modern décor. Among entrees are Nutty Chicken (a spicy combo of chicken, onion and dried chili) and a sole filet in red curry sauce. Veggie lovers favor the spicy maha jumlong curry. L, D (daily). 10101 Venice Blvd., Culver City, 310.202.7003; 998 S. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.855.9380 $ Map L11, I11

Wine-Down Weekends

PaLms thai This spot near the Pantages Theater is more known for its entertainment than its cooking, but both are worth the trip. Kavee Thongprecha, “the Thai Elvis,” does campy interpretations of the King’s repertory. Unusual menu items include frog legs with chili and basil. L, D (daily). 5900 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.462.5073 $ Map H14

Half price bottles of wine Friday through Sunday!

RESTRICTIONS APPLY. SEE YOUR SERVER FOR DETAILS.

EST. 1978

BRENTWOOD | LARCHMONT | LOS FELIZ | PASADENA | SANTA MONICA | WEST LA

(877) LOUISES

DINE-IN • TAKE OUT • DELIVERY

LOUISES.COM

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Log on anywhere.

WhereLA.com WHERE LOS ANGELES 79

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SPECIAL PROMOTION

MENU HIGHLIGHTS

208 RODEO Set atop the stairs on Via Rodeo’s cobblestone street, 208 Rodeo serves up luxury and bistro fare in a unique, romantic setting. Exuding Rodeo Drive elegance, the restaurant’s flagstone patio overlooks the Beverly Wilshire hotel, setting of the film Pretty Woman, and it is set amid the ritzy boutiques of Two Rodeo. Whether you desire a leisurely meal or a quick bite, 208 Rodeo offers both amid warm Hollywood Regency décor. The eatery serves a California cuisine with pan-Asian and French influences, offering dishes that are beautifully presented and imaginatively prepared with seasonal ingredients. 208 Rodeo also offers cocktails, wines and beers as well as delectable desserts and Illy espresso coffees. A children’s menu is available for all meals. B, L, D (daily).

Starters Smoked salmon parfait Crispy calamari Tuna tartare Roasted baby beet Foie gras Truffled French and sweet fries Sesame prawns Cheese platter Caesar salad Entrees Gourmet grilled cheese sandwich Penne arrabiata Seafood salad Seared ahi tuna sandwich Mushroom-and-salmon pasta Kosher rib eye Squash ravioli Poached Chilean sea bass Pickled pork belly Roasted salmon Filet mignon Roasted poussin Desserts Chocolate Florentine cannoli Mixed berry rolada Caramel Napoleon tiramisu Triple-layer chocolate mousse White chocolate cheese cake Fruit tart

208 Via Rodeo, Beverly Hills

310.275.2428 208rodeo.com

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BENIHANA At the heart of the Benihana experience lies the teppanyaki table, where masterful chefs expertly prepare fine Japanese cuisine on hibachi grills.

Favorites such as filet mignon, New York strip steak, colossal shrimp with butter and lemon, cold-water lobster and the signature hibachi chicken fried rice are cooked to order right in front of guests. Patrons are sure to enjoy the show by Benihana chefs, who are as well known for their culinary theatrics as they are for their outstanding cooking. The appetizer menu includes sushi and tempura selections. Interesting wines, premium imported sake, colorful cocktails and deliciously flavored iced teas are featured on the beverage menu as well as non-alcoholic frozen specialties. Children 12 and under can choose from the Kabuki Kids menu.

L, D (daily).

Starters Assorted maki (sushi rolls) Hand roll combination Sushi sampler Sashimi sampler Calamari, shrimp or scallop tempura Beef sashimi Shrimp, scallop or calamari sautÊ Edamame Miso soup Hibachi chicken rice Spicy seafood soup Entrees Filet mignon Hibachi steak Hibachi lemon chicken Colossal mango shrimp Spicy hibachi chicken Hibachi Chateaubriand Salmon tsutsumiyaki Hibachi tuna steak Hibachi scallops Hibachi shrimp Twin lobster tails Spicy tofu steak Seafood Diablo with udon noodles Yakisoba Emperors salad Desserts Häagen-Dazs ice cream Green tea ice cream Fresh pineapple boat Banana tempura

38 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills

323.655.7311 benihana.com

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MENU HIGHLIGHTS

FAUx PAS BISTro Faux Pas Bistro is designed by Kristofer Keith, the award-winning lead designer of Spacecraft Group, responsible for many of L.A.’s most distinctive dining environments. For his own restaurant, he created an inviting space that conveys a rustic European aesthetic with meticulous vintage detailing. Whether dining indoors or on the charming patio, Faux Pas Bistro exudes warmth and character. Guests huddle in large red leather booths on the perimeter of the dining room, enjoying an American bistro menu that pays homage to France and the Mediterranean. A classic Kir Royale, Sidecar or Cuba Libre can be poured at the skylit bar, and the wine list showcases the best of Europe and California. Daily brunch at Faux Pas Bistro—think crab Benedict, quiche Lorraine, Nutella crêpes or a croque madame—is the latest obsession on trendy 3rd Street. Despite its sophistication, there’s a great kid’s menu here, too. BR, L (daily). D (nightly).

Starters Cured salmon with crème fraîche and frisée Bloomsdale spinach salad with Parmesan dressing Steamed mussels French onion soup with fontina gratin Salade niçoise Entrees Steak frites New York Chicken Cordon Bleu Seared sea bass with mustard crust and lentils Chateaubriand Quiche Lorraine (Brunch) Granola French toast (Brunch) Desserts Butter cake with brûléed pineapple Chocolate ganache cake Tiramisu Carrot-Zucchini cake

7910 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles

323.424.4767 fauxpasbistro.com

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MENU HIGHLIGHTS Starters Little Gem Caesar salad Burrata cheese and heirloom tomatoes Roasted organic artichokes

paparazzI rISToraNTE Paparazzi Ristorante in the Sheraton Gateway Hotel near LAX delights diners with fresh pasta in authentic sauces as well as artistically prepared seafood, poultry and steaks. Start with a tasty salad such as the Little Gem Caesar, or choose from appetizers including eggplant parmigiana or tuna tartar with blood orange vinaigrette and an artichoke puree. The house specialty is il cioppino dei Paparazzi. an enticing combination of seafood in a fennel pomodoro broth served with a classic garlic ciabatta. Or try the terra e mare, an Angus filet mignon served alongside wild Pacific prawns, asparagus and gorgonzola mashed potatoes. Pasta lovers can also find comfort with the robust flavorings of the garganelli alla salsiccia, lasagna al brasato or spaghetti alla chitarra. Dine in crisp, clean and classy dÊcor. An elegant private dining room accommodates 40 guests and is equipped for entertainment and audio-visual needs. Ranked as one of the top 10 Italian restaurants in Los Angeles by gayot.com. Chef Orazio Parisi has been awarded the Chef of the Year 2011 by Southern California Food Writer Association while inspiring the senses with his simple, classic Italian cuisine with a gentle nod to southern Italy. D (M–Sa).

Entrees Spaghetti alla chitarra Tagliatelle alla bolognese Garganelli con salsiccia Lasagna al brasato Il cioppino dei Paparazzi Filetto alla griglia Bistecca al pepe verde La bistecca del vaccaro Ossobuco Organic lamb chops Pan-seared branzino al salmoriglio Sicilian pistachio-crusted Alaskan halibut Desserts Crema fredda al limoncello Profiteroles Tiramisu

6101 W. Century Blvd., Westchester

310.642.4820 sheratonlax.com/paparazzi

3:13 PM

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SPECIAL PROMOTION

MENU HIGHLIGHTS Starters Jumbo lump crab cake Pacific Coast steamers Spicy seared ahi tuna New England-style clam chowder Diver scallops Sashimi sampler

ParkErS’ LIGHTHoUSE With its signature seafood and steaks, warm service and breathtaking views of Long Beach Harbor and the Queen Mary, Parkers’ Lighthouse— now featuring Queensview Steakhouse on the third floor—is a perennial favorite of locals and visitors alike. Located in a fully operational lighthouse that has become the landmark for Shoreline Village, Parkers’ has long been the place to go for the freshest, locally sourced seafood, sushi or steaks. Guests may dine in the soaring, casually elegant dining room or on a romantic waterfront patio. The recently introduced Queensview Steakhouse, which boasts 360-degree views of the harbor, Pacific Ocean and sparkling city skyline, is the South Bay’s newest special-occasion spot, specializing in premium steaks and chops. Its exclusive supper club experience includes live jazz in an inviting lounge with club chairs and a bar turning out old classics and innovative specialty cocktails. L, D (daily).

Entrees Macadamia nut-crusted mahi mahi Chilean sea bass Daily selection of grilled fresh fish Crab- and shrimp-crusted salmon Prime New York strip steak Alaskan king crab Shelton Farms boneless half-chicken Surf & turf Maple-glazed prime pork loin Desserts Fuji apple cobbler Godiva Swiss chocolate cake Warm Tollhouse pie Trio of fresh seasonal fruit sorbets New York-style cheesecake

435 Shoreline Village Drive, Long Beach

562.432.6500 parkerslighthouse.com

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la dining Il Fornaio Il Fornaio’s award-winning authentic Italian cuisine is a favorite in Los Angeles. Specialties include house-made pastas, wood-fired pizza, grilled fish, authentic risotto, and rotisserie meats. Artisan breads and pasta are made fresh daily. Each month a special menu from a different region of Italy is featured. With an event coordinator on-site to handle all of your needs, Il Fornaio is the perfect location for special events and business functions. Winner of the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence 2008.

301 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.550.8330 1800 Rosecrans Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.725.9555 1551 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.451.7800 1 Colorado, Pasadena, 626.683.9797 ilfornaio.com

Noé Restaurant & Bar Located in the heart of the downtown theater district, minutes from Walt Disney Concert Hall and the Ahmanson Theatre, Noé Restaurant and Bar at the Omni Los Angeles Hotel at California Plaza features executive chef Glen Ishii’s frequently changing, market-driven menu. His contemporary American cuisine emphasizes fresh seasonal ingredients and an exciting selection including seafood and farm-raised meats and poultry. Popular with downtown residents and visitors alike, Noé features both indoor dining and an outdoor patio with intimate fire pits that showcases the stunning downtown skyline. Look for an extensive beverage list with wines and hand-crafted cocktails, pre-theater menus, happy hour specials and seasonal chef-driven events. D (nightly).

Omni Los Angeles Hotel, 251 S. Olive St., downtown 213.356.4100 noerestaurant.com

Matteo’s Restaurant

Frequented in its early days by celebs including Frank Sinatra and the rest of the Rat Pack, Matteo’s Restaurant has redefined its look and cuisine while maintaining status as the epitome of classic cool. A unique menu that changes with the seasons and an upscale supper club atmosphere form a winning combination of homey and hip. Executive chef Antonio Orlando’s menu feature sumptuous, cosmopolitan Italian fare like veal tartufato, lamb and weekly game specials.

Happy hour specials Tuesday through Friday and on Sunday include half-off drinks and a $7 and under bar menu. For lunch, visit adjacent cafe Hoboken, open weekdays. D (Tu-Su).

2321 Westwood Blvd., L.A. 310.475.4521 matteosla.com special advertising section

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la dining The Stinking Rose Located on Beverly Hills’ famed Restaurant Row, The Stinking Rose has made a name for itself, and its popularity is evident—people fill the unique dining rooms to partake of the tasty food enhanced by the fragrant bulb. Specialties include two pounds of whole, garlic-roasted Dungeness crab in a secret garlic sauce and the ever-popular forty-clove garlic chicken. “The Best Steak I Ever Tasted was in a Garlic Restaurant—The Stinking Rose in Beverly Hills”—Vladimir.

L, D (daily).

55 N. La Cienega Blvd. (near Wilshire Blvd.), Beverly Hills 310.652.7673 thestinkingrose.com

Cafe Sierra Within walking distance of Universal Studios Entertainment Center, Café Sierra offers an extravagant, Vegas-style seafood, lobster and prime rib dinner buffet with entertainment. On the weekend, they feature a delectable champagne brunch, voted best in Los Angeles. Signature American international breakfast buffet is perfect for early morning power meetings with Wi-Fi capabilities. A la carte breakfast, lunch and dinner menus offer a wide selection of continental cuisine with an array of award winning wines. The Atrium Lounge features great appetizers and happy hour special cocktails. Alfresco dining is available at Hollywood Pool and Cabanas (weather permitting). 10% discount on dinner buffet with hotel key.

B, L, D (daily).

555 Universal Hollywood Drive, Universal City 818.509.2030 cafesierrahilton.com

Rosa MexicanO Richly authentic, uniquely flavorful and undeniably passionate, the cuisine at Rosa Mexicano is praised by Zagat as “upscale” and “modern.” Sip on the famous frozen pomegranate margarita or sample its awardwinning guacamole en molcajete, prepared tableside. Patio areas provide the perfect spots for alfresco dining and people watching. To learn more about future events and promotions, please join Rosa Mexicano’s mailing list. Delivery service is available, and the restaurant offers private events as well as off-site catering. Happy hour is offered Monday through Friday. L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su).

800 W. Olympic Blvd., L.A., 213.746.0001 8570 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.4991 rosamexicano.com special advertising section

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Restaurants City Index Our superguide by area, with cross reference to listings by cuisine.

BEVERLY HILLS

Waterloo & City (British)..............................69

LA CIENEGA boulevard RESTAURANT ROW

sushi roku (Japanese)............................................. 74

downtown

fogo de chão (Steak).......................................... 78

true food kitchen (American).................... 68

THE BAZAAR (Spanish).............................................. 78 bouchon (French)....................................................... 72 CAULFIELD’S (American)........................................... 66 CHAYA (California)............................................................ 69 CRUSTACEAN (Pan-Asian)........................................ 75

aburiya toranoko (Japanese)..................... 74 artisan house (Mediterranean)........................ 74 bottega louie (Italian)........................................ 72

TAR & ROSES (California).............................................71

LAWRY’S PRIME RIB (Steak)................................ 79

VALENTIno (Italian)..................................................... 74

MATSUHISA (Japanese)............................................... 74

YE OLDE KING’S HEAD (British)....................... 69

mezze (Mediterranean).................................................. 74 NOBU (Japanese)............................................................... 74

cbs seafood (Chinese)............................................71

SOUTH BAY

CUT (Steak).......................................................................... 78

THE STINKING ROSE (Steak)............................... 79

akbar (Indian)................................................................. 72

FRIDA (Mexican)................................................................ 75

chaya (California)............................................................ 69

TANZORE (Indian).......................................................... 72

babouch MOROCCAN (Mediterranean)....... 74

the grill on the alley (Steak)................ 78

church & State (French)..................................... 72

IL CIELO (Italian).............................................................. 72

cicada (Italian)............................................................... 72

LONG BEACH

buca di beppo (Italian)......................................... 72

il fornaio (Italian).................................................... 73

drago centro (Italian)........................................ 72

café Sevilla (Spanish)........................................ 78

GINA LEE’S BISTRO (California).......................... 70

MASTRO’S STEAKHOUSE (Steak)................... 79

katsuya (Japanese)...................................................... 74

PARKERs’ LIGHTHOUSE (Seafood).................. 77

il fornaio (Italian).................................................... 73

Culina (Italian)............................................................... 72

McCORMICK & SCHMICK’S (Seafood)............ 77 MR. CHOW (Chinese)......................................................71 mr. c restaurant (Italian)............................... 73 NATALEE THAI (Thai)................................................ 79

kendall’s brasserie (French)..................... 72 lazy ox canteen (Brew/Pub)......................... 68 LOS ANGELES BREWING (Brew/Pub)........68

POLO LOUNGE (California)....................................... 70

más malo (Mexican)................................................... 75

BENIHANA (Japanese).................................................. 74

MAR’SEL (California)....................................................... 70

MALIBU

m.b. post (American)................................................... 66

charlie’s (American).................................................. 66

mccormick & schmick’s (Seafood)............ 77

duke’s malibu (Seafood)...................................... 77

PETROS (Mediterranean)............................................... 74

geoffrey’s (California)............................................ 70

the strand house (American)....................... 68 the veggie grill (Quick Bites)......................... 76

red medicine (Pan-Asian)...................................... 75

McCORMICK & SCHMICK’S (Seafood)............ 77

gladstone’s malibu (Seafood).................... 77

RUTH’s CHRIS (Steak)................................................ 79

mo-chica (Latin).......................................................... 75

maison giraud (French)...................................... 72

Scarpetta (Italian).................................................... 73

nick and stef’s (Steak)...................................... 79

NOBU MALIBU (Japanese)........................................ 74

UNIVERSAL CITY

SPAGO (California)..............................................................71

NOÉ (American).................................................................. 66

saddle peak lodge (American)................... 66

buca di beppo (Italian)......................................... 72

tra di noi (Italian)...................................................... 73

CAFE SIERRA (Eclectic)............................................. 72

208 Rodeo (California)................................................71 URasawa (Japanese)................................................... 74 wolfgang’s Steakhouse (Steak)......... 79

OCEAN SEAFOOD (Chinese)...................................71 pacific dining car (Steak).............................. 79 The parish (British).................................................... 69

HARD ROCK CAFE (American)............................. 66

MArina del rey cafe del rey (Mediterranean)............................. 74

Valley

SUGARFISH (Japanese)................................................ 74

asanebo (Japanese).................................................... 74

rivera (Latin).................................................................. 75

pasAdena

buca di beppo (Italian)......................................... 72 KATSU-YA (Japanese).................................................... 74

patina (French)................................................................ 72

BEVERLY Boulevard 3RD street MELROSE avenue

PHILIPPE the original (Quick Bites).......... 76

BENIHANA (Japanese).................................................. 74

Angelini osteria (Italian). ............................. 72

roy’s (Seafood)................................................................. 77

a/k/a bistro (American)........................................ 66

aoc (Mediterranean).................................................... 74

soleto trattoria (Italian).............................. 73

buca di beppo (Italian)......................................... 72

roy’s (Seafood)................................................................. 79

Comme çA (French)..................................................... 72

the spice table (Pan-Asian).............................. 76

cafe 140 south (California)................................ 69

umami burger (American)................................... 68

COOKS COUNTY (California).................................. 69 eva restaurant (California)................................... 70 fig & Olive (Mediterranean).................................... 74 hatfield’s (CFalifornia)..........................................70

SUGARFISH (Japanese)................................................ 74 UMAMICATESSEN (Eclectic)................................... 72 water grill (Seafood)............................................ 78

ink. (American)................................................................... 66

WP24 (Pan-Asian)............................................................. 76

jar (American).................................................................... 66

wurstkÜche (Quick Bites).................................... 76

Joan’s on third (American)...........................66

cheval blanc bistro (French)................... 72 1810 (Latin)........................................................................... 75

VENICE

FRIDA (Mexican)................................................................ 75

chaya (California)............................................................ 69

haven gastropub (Brew/Pub)....................... 68

GJELINA (Mediterranean)............................................. 74

il fornaio (Italian).................................................... 73

JOE’S (California)............................................................... 70

KATSUYA (Japanese)...................................................... 74

primitivo (Spanish)..................................................... 78

kings row gastroPub (Brew/Pub).......... 68

sunny spot (Eclectic)............................................... 72 the tasting kitchen (California)...................71

the little door (French)................................... 72

HOLLYWOOD/EASTSIDE

maison akira (Eclectic)......................................... 72

lucques (Mediterranean)........................................... 74

barbrix (Mediterranean)............................................ 74

mccormick & schmick’s (Seafood)............ 77

OSTERIA MOZZA (Italian)....................................... 73 Pizzeria Mozza (Italian)..................................... 73 playa (Latin)..................................................................... 75 providence (Seafood)............................................. 77

cleo (Mediterranean)...................................................... 74 delphine (French)........................................................ 72 the grill on hollywood (Steak)......... 78

new capital seafood (Chinese)................71

WEST HOLLYWOOD

parkway grill (California).................................. 70

ASIA DE CUBA (Eclectic).............................................71

rose tree cottage (British).......................... 69

BLT STEAK (Steak)........................................................ 78

the royce (American)............................................... 66

BOA (Steak).......................................................................... 78

red o (Mexican)............................................................... 75

HARD ROCK CAFE (American)............................. 66

roy’s (Seafood)................................................................. 77

cecconi’s (Italian)....................................................... 72

Simon L.A. (American)............................................... 66

the HUNGRY CAT (Seafood)................................. 77

RUTH’s CHRIS (Steak)................................................ 79

dominick’s (Italian).................................................... 72

son of a gun (Seafood)........................................ 77

in-n-out (Quick Bites).................................................. 76

smitty’s grill (American).................................... 68

EVELEIGH (American)................................................... 66

sushi roku (Japanese)............................................. 74

KATSUYA (Japanese)...................................................... 74

sushi roku (Japanese)............................................. 74

Gordon Ramsay (Eclectic)................................. 72

lamill coffee boutique (American).... 66

vertical wine bistro (American)............. 68

the ivy (American).......................................................66

santa monica

petrossian (French)............................................... 72

bar pintxo (Spanish)................................................ 78

STK (Steak)........................................................................... 79

Brentwood KATSUYA (Japanese)...................................................... 74 restaurant at getty (California)................71 sugarfish (Japanese)................................................ 74 TAVERN (California)........................................................ 71

malo (Mexican)................................................................ 75 MUSSO & FRANK (American)................................. 66 PaLMS THAI (Thai)..................................................... 79 public kitchen + Bar (Brew/Pub).............. 69

PALIHOUSE (French)..................................................... 72

blue plate oysterette (Seafood)............ 76

tender greens (Quick Bites)........................... 76

boa (Steak).......................................................................... 78

the veggie grill (Quick Bites)......................... 76

Susan feniger’s street (Eclectic)........... 72

Border Grill (Mexican)........................................ 74

CENTURY CITY

tender greens (Quick Bites)........................... 76

catch (Seafood)............................................................... 77

WESTSIDE

BREEZE (California)......................................................... 69

umami burger (American)................................... 68

CHINOIS ON MAIN (California)............................. 69

the apple pan (Quick Bites)................................ 76

CRAFT (American)............................................................ 66

YAMASHIRO (Pan-Asian)............................................ 76

farmshop (California)................................................ 70

casa azul cantina (Mexican)...................... 74

father’s office (Brew/Pub)...........................68

chan dara (Thai)...................................................... 77

the hungry cat (Seafood)................................. 77

fundamental l.a. (California)......................... 70

il fornaio (Italian).................................................... 73

il grano (Italian)......................................................... 73

Culver City a-Frame (Eclectic)...........................................................71 akasha (California)....................................................... 69 father’s office 2 (Brew/Pub)......................68

LA BREA/MIDTOWN ANIMAL (American)........................................................ 66 CaMPANILE (Mediterranean)..................................... 74

ivy at the shore (American).........................66

matteo’s (Italian)....................................................... 73

THE LOBSTER (Seafood)............................................ 77

paparazzi (Italian)..................................................... 73

ford’s filling station (Brew/Pub).......... 68

chosun galbee (Korean).................................... 74

MÉLISSE (French)............................................................. 72

picca (Latin)...................................................................... 75

lukshon (Pan-Asian)................................................... 75

pink’s hot dogs (Quick Bites)........................... 76

Michael’s (California)................................................. 70

sotto (Italian).................................................................. 73

NATALEE THAI (Thai)................................................ 79

ray’s & stark bar (Mediterranean)............... 74

MILO & OLIVE (California)......................................... 70

sushi sasabune (Japanese)............................. 74

tender greens (Quick Bites)........................... 76

soot bull jeep (Korean)..................................... 74

pacific dining car (Steak).............................. 79

westside tavern (California).............................71

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Entertainment Special Events afi fest Nov. 1–8. International film festival offers screenings at Grauman’s Chinese Theatre (p. 92), Chinese 6 Theatres at Hollywood & Highland Center (p. 100), Egyptian Theatre (p. 92) and Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel (7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.466.7000). Opening night gala film is Hitchcock. afi.com/afifest Map H13 ice at santa monica Opening Nov. 2. Outdoor skating rink in downtown Santa Monica. M–Th 2–10 pm, F 2 pm–midnight, Sa 10 am–midnight, Su 10 am–10 pm.

Admission, skate rental $12. 1324 5th St., Santa Monica, 310.461.8333 Map L8

HOLLYWOOD Guidelines

Map locators at the end of each listing (map a3; map H10, etc.) refer to maps in the back of this issue. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

Index Special Events ...................88 Theater ................................88 Music + Dance...................88 Sports...................................90 Attractions .........................90

Studio Tours/Tapings .....94 Museums ...........................96 Shopping..............................99 Nightlife..............................101 Tours + Transport...........104

los angeles green festival Nov. 17–18. Sustainability event features organic food court, environmental film installation, hands-on workshops, cooking demonstrations, live music and marketplace. Sa 10 am–7 pm, Su 11 am–6 pm. Day pass $15, weekend pass $25, Festival Fan Pass $65. Los Angeles Convention Center, 1201 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 828.333.9403 Map I15

tHe BooK of mormon Through Nov. 25. The ninetime Tony Award–winning musical follows a pair of Mormon boys sent on a mission to about as far away from Salt Lake City as one can get. Pantages Theatre, 6233 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.468.1779 Map H14

l.a. aUto sHow Opening Nov. 30. Premieres of production and concept vehicles from top automakers. M–F 11 am–10 pm, Sa 9 am–10 pm, Su 9 am–8 pm. $12, free for children 12 and under. Los Angeles Convention Center, 1201 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.741.1151 Map I15

anytHing goes Opening Nov. 27. Two unlikely couples set off on the S.S. American, and learn that sometimes destiny needs a little help from a crew of singing sailors, an exotic disguise and some good oldfashioned blackmail. Ahmanson Theatre, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16

Theater

otHer desert cities Opening Nov. 28. A tell-all confessional novel rocks a family’s dynamic with evershifting alliances and politics in this new play from Pulitzer Prize finalist Jon Robin Baitz. Mark Taper Forum, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16

dralion Through Nov. 4. Cirque du Soleil crafts a show inspired by Eastern philosophy and the 3,000-year-old tradition of Chinese acrobatic arts.

Long Beach Arena, 300 E. Ocean Blvd., Long Beach, 562.436.3636 Map N16 KraPP’s last taPe Through Nov. 4. Two-time Academy Award nominee John Hurt channels the surly Victor Krapp who, on his 69th birthday, meditates about the choices made in a lifetime. Kirk Douglas Theatre, 9820 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 213.628.2772 Map L11 novemBer Through Nov. 4. Pulitzer Prize winner David Mamet tells the tale of a president desperate to be re-elected—and the begging, borrowing and integritysacrificing he does to achieve it. Mark Taper Forum, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16 seminar Through Nov. 18. Four aspiring young writers sign up for writing classes with an international literary figure. The new comedy stars Academy Award and Emmy Award nominee Jeff Goldblum. Ahmanson Theatre, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16 BUild Through Nov. 18. Two friends torn apart by the viral success of their blockbuster video game are thrown back together in a high-stakes gamble to complete and ship a new multibillion-dollar product.

Geffen Playhouse, 10886 Le Conte Ave., Westwood, 310.208.5454 Map J10 coney island cHristmas Opening Nov. 20.

Pulitzer Prize winner Donald Marguiles presents a holiday show for people of all ages and faiths. Based on the short story The Loudest Voice by Grace Paley.

Geffen Playhouse, 10886 Le Conte Ave., Westwood, 310.208.5454 Map J10 a cHristmas carol: twist yoUr dicKens Opening Nov. 24. The Second City alums and drop-in special guests give Charles Dickens’ classic tale an update with scheming politicians, sunbathing Santas and shoplifting celebrities. Kirk Douglas Theatre, 9820 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 213.628.2772 Map L11

iris Ongoing. The Cirque du Soleil production, a tribute to film, takes up permanent residence at the former Kodak Theatre in Hollywood. The fantastical score is courtesy of film composer Danny Elfman. Dolby Theatre, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 877.943.4747 Map H13

46% 4 Walk of Fame attractions

Starline Movie Stars’ Homes Tour

Madame Tussauds Hollywood

Music + Dance dorotHy cHandler Pavilion Nov. 17, 25, 28 Los Angeles Opera, Madame Butterfly. 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7211 Map H16

Red Line Tours’ Hollywood Behind-the-Scenes

staPles center Nov. 24 Morissey, Iggy Pop & the Stooges, Kristeen Young. Nov. 29 Vicente Fernandez. L.A. Live, 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 800.745.3000 Map I15 Ucla live Nov. 2 David Grisman Sextet, David Lindley.

Nov. 9 Grupo Fantasma, Chicha Libre. Nov. 11 Los Angeles Chamber Orchestra, conductor Benjamin Wallfisch, violinist Tereza Stanislav. Nov. 15 Yemen Blues. Nov. 29 Charles Bradley and the Menahan Street Band. UCLA, Royce Hall, Westwood, 310.825.2101 Map J10 walt disney concert Hall Nov. 2–4 Los Angeles Philharmonic, conductor Marin Alsop, cellist Joshua Roman, hyper-accordionist Michael Ward-Bergeman, percussionist Jamey Haddad. Nov. 3 Ravel’s Mother Goose. Nov. 4 Organist Janette Fishell. Nov. 6 Members of the Los Angeles Philharmonic. Nov. 7 Pianist Hélène Grimaud. Nov. 8–10 Los Angeles Philharmonic, conductor Rafael Frühbeck de Burgos, mezzo-soprano Nancy Fabiola Herrera, tenor Vicente Ombuena, soprano Cristina Faus, bass-baritone Josep Miguel Ramón, tenor Gustavo Peña, baritone Alfredo Garcia, bailarina Núria Pomares, cantaor Pedro Sanz, guitarist Pablo Sáinz-Villegas. Nov. 13 Philharmonia Orchestra, conductor Esa-Pekka Salonen, Johan Reuter, Angela Denoke, Hubert Francis, Joshua Ellicott, Peter Hoare,

Del Monte Speakeasy in Venice truly was a speakeasy in the 1920s, under the name Menotti’s Buffet. 310.392.4040

Your choice of Dolby Theatre Guided Tour OR The Hollywood Museum

Buy at these attractions - Good for 9 days ONLY

Ages 3-11

59 $39

$

Connect with CityPASS

(888) 330-5008 or citypass.com

Pricing and programs are subject to change.

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Attractions + Museums Frode Olsen, Henry Waddington, Adrian Clarke, Harry Nicoll, Anna Burford. Nov. 14 Barbara Cook, Los Angeles Philharmonic. Nov. 16–18 Los Angeles Philharmonic, conductor Rafael Frühbeck de Burgos, cellist Lynn Harrell. Nov. 18 Los Angeles Master Chorale. Nov. 23–25 Los Angeles Philharmonic, conductor Vasily Petrenko, Simon Trpceski. Nov. 30 Los Angeles Philharmonic, Esa-Pekka Salonen. 111 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 323.850.2000 Map H16 tHe wiltern Nov. 2 Grace Potter & the Nocturnals.

Nov. 3 The All American Rejects, Boys Like Girls. Nov. 8 Delta Spirit. Nov. 9 Iration, the Expendables, Cisco Adler.

Nov. 16 Joshua Radin, A Fine Frenzy, Lucy Schwartz.

Nov. 17 Grouplove, Papa. Nov. 18 John Legend, Lianne La Havas. Nov. 21 Pierce the Veil, Sleeping With Sirens, Tonight Alive, Hands Like Houses. Nov. 24 Counting Crows, Tender Mercies, Mean Creek. Nov. 28 Falling in Reverse, Enter Shikari, I See Stars. 3790 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 877.598.8698 Map J13

Sports staPles center Nov. 2 Los Angeles Lakers vs.

Los Angeles Clippers. Nov. 3 Clippers vs. Golden State Warriors. Nov. 4 Lakers vs. Detroit Pistons. Nov. 5 Clippers vs. Cleveland Cavaliers. Nov. 7 Clippers vs.

San Antonio Spurs. Nov. 9 Lakers vs. Golden State Warriors. Nov. 11 Clippers vs. Atlanta Hawks; Lakers vs. Sacramento Kings. Nov. 13 Lakers vs. San Antonio Spurs. Nov. 14 Clippers vs. Miami Heat. Nov. 16 Lakers vs. Phoenix Suns. Nov. 17 Clippers vs. Chicago Bulls.

Nov. 18 Lakers vs. Houston Rockets. Nov. 20 Lakers vs. Brooklyn Nets. Nov. 26 Clippers vs. New Orleans Hornets. Nov. 27 Lakers vs. Indiana Pacers. Nov. 28 Clippers vs. Minnesota Timberwolves. Nov. 30 Lakers vs. Denver Nuggets. 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 800.745.3000 Map I15

Attractions aQUariUm of tHe Pacific Focus is on Pacific Ocean sea life. Pet the sharks at Shark Lagoon; Lorikeet Forest, Turtle Vision 4-D. The June Keyes Penguin Habitat is new. Daily 9 am–6 pm. $13.95–$24.95, under 3 free. 100 Aquarium Way, Long Beach, 562.590.3100 Map O16 catalina eXPress Year-round boat service to Catalina Island; daily departures from Long Beach, Dana Point, San Pedro. Reservation recommended. Call for hours. San Pedro, Long Beach: $27.50–$35.25 one-way, $55–$70.50 round-trip; Dana Point: $28.50–$35.25 one-way, $57–$72.50 round-trip; under 2 $2.50–$5.

800.995.4386, catalinaexpress.com cHinatown Ornate architecture, dim sum, shops with Eastern wares. Art and antiques on Chung King Road. Between Cesar E. Chavez Avenue and Bernard Street, Yale and Spring streets, downtown Map G17 disneyland Mickey Mouse’s theme park. Recent additions include Finding Nemo Submarine Voyage.

Updated Star Tours, Pirates of the Caribbean and Space Mountain. Fireworks, fantastic Fantasmic! continues. Call for hours. Admission (includes all rides and attractions): $74–$80, under 2 free. 1600 S. Disneyland Drive, Anaheim, 714.781.4565 Map I10 disney california adventUre ParK Soarin’ Over California, A Bug’s Land, Twilight Zone Tower of Terror, Toy Story Mania!. Ariel’s Undersea Adventure is newest attraction. Call for hours. Admission (includes all rides and attractions): $74–$80, under 2 free. 1600 S. Disneyland Drive, Anaheim, 714.781.4565 Map I10 dolBy tHeatre Tour the home of the Academy Awards formerly named the Kodak Theatre. M–F 10:30 am–4 pm; Sa–Su 8:30–10:30 am. $10–$15, under 4 free. 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.308.6300 Map H13

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Attractions + Museums egyPtian tHeatre Restored 1922 Hollywood landmark screens classics, cult favorites, indie films.

Excellent Forever Hollywood screens daily. Call for schedule. $7–$11. 6712 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.466.3456 Map H13

Where sea level feels like the top of the world.

farmers marKet Local landmark with 120 produce stalls, restaurants and gift shops in open-air setting. M–F 9 am–9 pm; Sa 9 am–8 pm; Su 10 am–7 pm. 6333 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.933.9211 Map I13

Whether the highlight of a vacation or a close-to-home birthday party, anniversary dinner or special celebration, a Hornblower dining cruise is always memorable.

graUman’s cHinese tHeatre Historic Hollywood venue with walkway of stars’ hand- and footprints in the forecourt. Call for movie schedule. 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.464.8111 Map H13 greystone mansion and ParK Gardens and park grounds open daily. Tours on Saturdays. 10 am–6 pm most days. Free. 905 Loma Vista Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.285.6830 Map I11 griffitH oBservatory Iconic attraction overlooking Hollywood. Hourly shows at planetarium.

W–F noon–10 pm; Sa–Su 10 am–10 pm. Free; donations accepted. 2800 E. Observatory Road, L.A., 213.473.0800 Map U23

Weekend Brunch Cruises

Scan for discounts

Starlight Dinner Cruises

Friday Night Blues Dinner Cruise Private Charters

Hollywood walK of fame Celebs’ names are enshrined in bronze-and-terrazzo stars. Free.

Hollywood Boulevard from Gower Street to La Brea Avenue and Vine Street from Yucca Street to Sunset Boulevard, Hollywood, 323.469.8311 Map H13

310-301-6000 hornblower.com

Knott’s Berry farm More than 165 rides and attractions. Roller coasters include Silver Bullet, GhostRider and Xcelerator. Call for hours. $28.99– $57.99, under 3 free. 8039 Beach Blvd., Buena Park, 714.220.5200 Map D5

Cruising out of Marina del Rey & Newport Beach

K1 sPeed Indoor electric go-kart racing with snack bars and an arcade. M–Th noon–10 pm, F 11 am–11 pm, Sa 10 am–11 pm, Su 10 am–7 pm. $20 per race. 19038 S. Vermont Ave., Gardena, 310.532.2478 Map L15

THE GRAMMY MUSEUM® AT L.A. LIVE PRESENTS

l.a. live Burgeoning entertainment center is home to the Grammy Museum, Nokia Theatre and Club Nokia; restaurants, high-tech bowling lanes and nightspots such as the Conga Room. 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.763.5483 Map I15 l.a. zoo and Botanical gardens Wildlife in parklike setting. Daily 10 am–5 pm. $9–$14, under 2 free. Golden State (5) and Ventura (134) freeways, 5333 Zoo Drive, L.A., 323.644.4200 Map T23 madame tUssaUds Hollywood Wax museum with some 115 likenesses of celebrities in music, film, sports and more. Costumes provided for photo ops with figures. Call for hours. $18–$25, under 4 free. 6933 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.798.1670 Map H13

Celebrating the Musical Legacy of Whitney Houston On display thru February 24, 2013

tHe mUsic center The 90-minute Symphonian Music Center Tour includes history, architecture.

Also see listing for Walt Disney Concert Hall. First come, first served. Tu–Sa 10:30 am–12:30 pm. Free. 151 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.4399 Map H16 ocean front walK Boardwalk with street performers, souvenir vendors. Muscle Beach–adjacent. Along beach between Marine Street and Grand Boulevard, Venice Map N9 olvera street Festive open-air Mexican marketplace with restaurants, shops at historic El Pueblo de Los Angeles. Alameda Street between Main and Los Angeles streets, downtown, 213.628.1274 Map H17 Pacific ParK Amusement park on the Santa Monica Pier with rides including a solar-powered Ferris wheel, plus midway games, food vendors, specialty shops.

Su–Th 11 am–11 pm, F–Sa 11 am–12:30 am. Admission free; rides $3–$5, unlimited pass $15.95–$21.95. 380 Santa Monica Pier, Santa Monica, 310.260.8744 Map L8

On display thru September 2013 800 West Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90015 Mon-Fri 11:30AM – 7:30PM, Sat-Sun 10AM – 7:30PM For more information, go to WWW.GRAMMYMUSEUM.ORG GRAMMY Museum® and the Museum logo are registered trademarks of The Recording Academy® and are used under license.

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QUEEN MARY SHIP AND SEAPORT Historic ocean liner—bigger than the Titanic!—permanently berthed in Long Beach Harbor. Shops, dining, art deco lounge and restaurant Sir Winston’s. The Russian Foxtrot Submarine is adjacent. Continuing Diana: Legacy of a Princess. Su–Th 10 am–6 pm, F–Sa 10 am–7 pm for self-guided and guided tours. $13.95–$24.95, under 5 free. 1126 Queens Hwy., Long Beach, 562.435.3511 Map O16 SAN ANTONIO WINERY Complimentary tastings and tour of the only producing winery in L.A., which celebrates its 95th anniversary this year. Restaurant and wine shop on site. Daily 9 am–7 pm. 737 Lamar St., downtown, 323.223.1401 Map G17

MARISSA ROTH

ONE PERSON CRYING Women and War

PORTS O’ CALL VILLAGE Fifty stores and restaurants.

Harbor cruises, helicopter tours, boat tours of Port of Los Angeles. 77 Nagoya Way (off Harbor Boulevard), San Pedro Map O15

An exhibit by photojournalist

Attractions + Museums

SANTA MONICA MOUNTAINS NATIONAL RECREATIONAL AREA Hiking, horseback riding, bird-watching on 150,000 acres. National Park Service Visitor Center open daily 9 am–5 pm (holidays exempt). 26976 Mulholland Hwy., Calabasas, 805.370.2301 Map west of B1 SIX FLAGS MAGIC MOUNTAIN Theme park has 17 coasters; dozens of attractions; rides including world’s tallest, fastest and longest flying coaster, Tatsu, and the world’s tallest vertical drop, Lex Luthor: Drop of Doom.

Call for hours. $36.99–$61.99, under 3 free. 26101 Magic Mountain Pkwy., Valencia, 661.255.4111 Map A2 UNIVERSAL CITYWALK Eye-popping dining, shopping and entertainment promenade includes boutiques such as Fossil, Guess? and Abercrombie & Fitch, novelty stores and state-of-the-art cinema and IMAX theater. iFLY Hollywood is a simulated sky-diving wind tunnel. Call for hours. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.4455 Map U20

9786 West Pico Boulevard Los Ange les, CA 90035

MUSEUM OF TOLERANCE

t: 310.553.8403 www.museumoftolerance.com

UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD World’s biggest motion picture/TV studio. Rides include new Transformers: The Ride 3-D, Jurassic Park, the Simpsons Ride and Revenge of the Mummy—the Ride. Tram studio tour includes King Kong 360 3-D and film and TV sets. VIP Experience is private guided tour through prop warehouse, working movie sets, soundstages. Call for hours. $72–$80, under 3 free. Front-of-line pass, $139–$149. VIP Experience $269. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 800.864.8377 Map U20 WALT DISNEY CONCERT HALL Frank Gehry-designed architectural landmark at the Music Center. Tour options include 45-minute self-guided audio tour narrated by John Lithgow; guided tours at noon and 1 pm; pre-matinee guided tours. Guided tours for 15 or more by reservation.

10 am–2 pm most days. Free. 151 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.4399 Map H16

Studio Tours NBC STUDIOS Seventy-five-minute walking tour; see sets of The Tonight Show With Jay Leno, Days of Our Lives; wardrobe, makeup, special effects, sound effects. M–F 9 am–3 pm. $5–$8.50, under 5 free. 3000 W. Alameda Ave., Burbank, 818.840.3538 Map T21 SONY PICTURES STUDIOS TOUR Two-hour walking tour of working motion picture studio includes sets of television shows and films including Spider-Man. Reservation, photo ID required. M–F 9:30 am–2:30 pm. $33; under 12 not admitted. Parking free. 10202 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.244.8687 Map L11 THE STUDIOS AT PARAMOUNT Two-hour group tour of the longest-operating and only remaining major studio in Hollywood. Reservation required. Tours M–F (holidays exempt) at 10 am, 11 am, 1 pm and 2 pm. $45. 5555 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.956.4848 Map I14

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LA PHIL

WALT DISNEY CONCERT HALL

November concerts with the Los Angeles Philharmonic NOV 2*-4

TCHAIKOVSKY’S “PATHÉTIQUE” Marin Alsop conductor • Joshua Roman cello Michael Ward-Bergeman hyper-accordion • Jamey Haddad percussion BARBER Essay No. 2 (except Fri) GOLIJOV Azul TCHAIKOVSKY Symphony No. 6, “Pathétique” Marin Alsop displays her commitment to American music and her way with a passionate classic, plus a contemplative contemporary work for cello and orchestra. * Nov 2 includes TalkBack (Q&A with artists) and meet-and-greet with orchestra members.

NOV 8-10

BEETHOVEN AND FALLA Rafael Frühbeck de Burgos conductor Nancy Fabiola Herrera, Vicente Ombuena, Cristina Faus, Josep Miquel Ramón, Gustavo Peña, Alfredo García, Pedro Sanz singers Núria Pomares bailarina • Pablo Sáinz-Villegas guitar BEETHOVEN Symphony No. 8 FALLA La vida breve (complete) After Beethoven’s jocular Eighth, the eminent Spanish conductor leads a rare complete performance of Falla’s operatic tragedy, with its lush Spanish folk- and flamenco-tinged Romantic score. Media sponsor: KUSC (10/8) NOV 16-18

RAVEL’S BOLERO AND MORE

Special Offer

Purchase tickets with code “GUEST” at Ticketmaster.com and receive 10% discount on purchases at the LA Phil Store by presenting your ticket at register.

Rafael Frühbeck de Burgos conductor • Lynn Harrell cello HAYDN Symphony No. 6, “Le matin” (except Fri) HAYDN Cello Concerto in C ALBÉNIZ (arr. Frühbeck de Burgos) Suite Española RAVEL Bolero Besides Ravel’s pulse-pounding Bolero, Frühbeck leads colorful Spanish music and is joined by a leading American cellist for one of Haydn’s bestknown concertos..

NOV 23-25

GRIEG’S PIANO CONCERTO Vasily Petrenko conductor • Simon Trpcˇeski piano NIELSEN Maskarade Overture GRIEG Piano Concerto SHOSTAKOVICH Symphony No. 10 The enthusiastically received young Macedonian pianist performs Grieg’s well-loved concerto. Our conductor is acclaimed for his intense interpretation of the tragic and ultimately triumphant Shostakovich Tenth.

LAPhil.com • 323.850.2000 Programs, artists, prices and dates subject to change

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GUSTAVO DUDAMEL Music Director

10/16/12 3:45 PM

Attractions + Museums

Original Works of Native American Indian Jewelry and Art

Universal Studios Hollywood See listing under Attractions. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.3801 Map U20 Warner Bros. Studios Two-hour VIP tour of working movie and TV studio includes backlots, enormous soundstages and costume department, memorabilia museum and observation of filming when possible. VIP tours available. Reservation recommended; photo ID required. M–F 8:20 am–4 pm, limited availability Sa–Su. $49, under 8 not admitted. 3400 Riverside Drive, Burbank, 818.972.8087 Map U20

Studio Tapings Audiences Unlimited Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows on CBS, FOX, NBC and CW. Minimum age 10–18, varies by show. Satellite TV Ticket Booth, Universal Studios Hollywood, 818.260.0041, Ext. 1. tvtickets.com Jimmy Kimmel Live Free tickets for live tapings of late-night ABC show. Minimum age 18. Phone line open M–F 1–4 pm. El Capitan Entertainment Center, 6840 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 866.546.6984 Map H13 NBC Television Reserve seats for sitcoms and The Jay Leno Show day of show only at NBC Ticket Box. Two tickets per person, first come, first served. Advance tickets except The Tonight Show through Audiences Unlimited. Minimum age 16. 3000 W. Alameda Ave., Burbank, 818.840.3537 Map T21 Paramount Studios Tickets to tapings to show tapings offered first come, first served five days in advance and via website. Minimum age 12–18, varies by show. (Dr. Phil tickets, 323.461.7445, Audience@ CBSParamount.com.) 5555 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.956.1777, paramount.com Map I14

Museums

Visitors from around the world seek out Taos Indian Trading Co. for unique, quality jewelry, pottery, sculptures, paintings and a variety of other artifacts representing 57 tribes.

Mon-Sat 11am-6pm Sun call for appointment

310.395.3652

403 Santa Monica Blvd.

TaosIndianTrading.com

hollywoodandhighland.com

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THE annenberg space for photography Ten thousand square feet with digital projection gallery, print exhibit area. Opening Nov. 17 No Strangers: Ancient Wisdom in a Modern World. W–F 11 am–6 pm, Sa 11 am–9 pm, Su 11 am–6 pm. Parking $3.50, $1 after 4:30 pm and all day Sa–Su. Admission free. 2000 Avenue of the Stars, Century City, 310.209.4560 Map J11 California African American Museum History, culture, art. Continuing The Legacy of the Golden State Mutual Life Insurance Company: More Than a Business; Shared Thread; African American Military Portraits From the American Civil War; Go Tell It On the Mountain; Coloring America: Selections From the California African American Museum’s Permanent History Collection. Ongoing Gallery of Discovery. Tu–Sa 10 am–5 pm; Su 11 am–5 pm. Free. Parking $10. 600 State Drive, Exposition Park, 213.744.7432 Map M8 California Science Center Interactive exhibits for budding scientists. Continuing Cleopatra: The Exhibition.

Ongoing Endeavour: The California Story. Daily 10 am–5 pm. Permanent exhibition gallery, free; admission for other exhibits and Imax varies. Parking $8. 700 State Drive, Exposition Park, downtown, 323.724.3623 Map K15 Getty Center Beautiful travertine-clad hilltop facility houses stunning collections of paintings, drawings, antiquities, photographs and decorative arts. Fabulous Central Garden and city views. Opening Nov. 13 Florence at the Dawn of the Renaissance: Painting and Illumination, 1300– 1350; Disegno: Drawing in Europe, 1520–1600. Continuing The Photographs of Ray K. Metzker and the Institute of Design; Drama and Devotion: Heemskerck’s Ecce Homo Altarpiece From Warsaw; The Art of Devotion in the Middle Ages; Farewell to Surrealism: The Dyn Circle in Mexico; In Focus: Robert Mapplethorpe. Ongoing The Life of Art: Context, Collecting and Display. Tu–Th, Su 10 am–5:30 pm; F–Sa 10 am–9 pm. Free. Parking $15, $10 F–Sa after 5 pm. 1200 Getty Center Drive, L.A., 310.440.7300 Map K7

See IRIS from Cirque du Soleil ® at the Dolby Theatre

Mention code WH to receive an Elephant Card for H&H discounts.

Visitors Information Center, Level 1.

Hollywood Blvd & Highland Ave

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Where

Irises (detail), 1889, Vincent van Gogh. Oil on canvas. The J. Paul Getty Museum, Los Angeles.

Inspirational Facts Serving Size

71 x 98 cm

Irises Vincent van Gogh % Daily Value Vibrant

95%

Original

100%

Stunning

98%

Genius

120%

Boring

0%

An essential source of inspiration.

Get your free daily dose visit getty.edu for directions and hours. Š2010 J. Paul Getty Trust.

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Attractions + Museums Getty Villa Getty Center’s exquisite coastal counterpart features Roman and Greek antiquities. Continuing The Last Days of Pompeii: Decadence, Apocalypse, Resurrection; The Sanctuaries of Demeter and Persephone at Morgantina; Lion Attacking a Horse From the Capitoline Museums, Rome. Ongoing Molten Color: Glassmaking in Antiquity; Roman Ephebe From Naples. Th–M 10 am–5 pm. Free. Parking $15. Advance timed tickets required. 17985 Pacific Coast Hwy., Pacific Palisades, 310.440.7300 Map K7 Grammy museum Museum on L.A. Live campus explores music, the creative and recording processes, and Grammy Award history. Continuing Golden Gods: The History of Heavy Metal; Herman Leonard: Documenting the Giants of Jazz; Whitney! Celebrating the Musical Legacy of Whitney Houston; Good Vibrations: 50 Years of the Beach Boys. Ongoing Michael Jackson; This Land is Your Land: Woody at 100. M–F 11:30 am–7:30 pm; Sa–Su 10 am–7:30 pm. $10.95–$12.95, under 6 free. 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.765.6800 Map I15 Hammer museum Traveling shows and installations and permanent collection. Through Nov. 18 Your Land/ My Land: Election ’12. Continuing Lucy Raven; A Strange Magic; Sun Yuan and Peng Yu; Zarina; Meg Cranston; Graphic Design: Now In Production. Tu–F 11 am–8 pm, Sa–Su 11 am–5 pm. $5–$10, free on Thursdays. 10899 Wilshire Blvd., Westwood, 310.443.7000 Map J10 Hollywood museum Ten thousand artifacts on four floors: costumes such as Robert Pattinson’s and Taylor Lautner’s in Twilight; sets including Hannibal Lecter’s cell, props, photos, movie posters, scripts; and Max Factor’s makeup rooms, where Marilyn Monroe became a blonde and Lucille Ball a redhead. In restored Max Factor Building. W–Su 10 am–5 pm. $12–$15.

1660 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, 323.464.7776 Map H13 HuntinGton library, art ColleCtions, and botaniCal Gardens Stellar art, buildings and grounds, with more than a dozen themed gardens.

Gallery includes Pinkie and The Blue Boy. Opening Nov. 10 Lesley Vance & Ricky Swallow. Continuing A Just Cause: Voices of the American Civil War; A Strange and Fearful Interest: Death, Mourning and Memory in the American Civil War; Alpine Skeletons: Marsden Hartley Silverpoint Drawings. W–M 10:30 am–4:30 pm. $8–$23, under 5 free. 1151 Oxford Road, San Marino, 626.405.2141 Map R21 Japanese ameriCan national museum Promotes understanding of ethnic diversity with a focus on the Japanese American experience. Continuing Giant Robot Biennale 3. Ongoing Common Ground: The Heart of the Community. Tu–W, F–Su 11 am–5 pm; Th noon–8 pm. $5–$9, under 6 free. 369 E. 1st St., downtown, 213.625.0414 Map H17 los anGeles County museum of art Diverse premier collections; Broad Contemporary Art Museum and Resnick Pavilion are latest additions. LACMA West nearby. Opening Nov. 1 Stanley Kubrick. Opening Nov. 11 Bodies and Shadows: Caravaggio and His Legacy. Opening Nov. 17 Bruce Nauman: For Beginners. Continuing Ken Price Sculpture: A Retrospective; Masterworks of Expressionist Cinema: Caligari and Metropolis; Ed Ruscha: Standard; Imagining the Modern Self: Photographs From the Audrey and Sydney Irmas Collection; Young; Alia Syed: Eating Grass; Unveiling Femininity in Indian Painting and Photography; The Prints of John McLaughlin: Sites of Contemplation; Rostam 2—the Return Series by Siamak Filizadeh; Pictorial Relationships in Tibetan Thangka Painting and Furniture, Part I: Flowers; Tibetan Silver From the Collection of Julian Sands; Daily Pleasures: French Ceramics From the MaryLou Boone Collection; Robert Mapplethorpe: XYZ; Drawing Surrealism; Walter De Maria: The 2000 Sculpture. Ongoing Levitated Mass; Metropolis II; the Studio Glass Movement, 1962–2012.

M–Tu, Th 11 am–5 pm, F until 8 pm; Sa–Su 10 am–7 pm. $10–$15, under 18 free. LACMA West free. LACMA, 5905 Wilshire Blvd.; LACMA West, 6067 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.857.6000 Map J13

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Magnolia Park L.A.’s coolest upmarket vintage and retro neighborhood—on Burbank’s western edge.

Through these doors step the prettiest women in the world– Pinup Boutique carries vintage inspired fashions by Laura Byrnes and features Hair and Makeup by Micheline Pitt.

Pinup Girl Boutique 3606 West Magnolia Blvd.

818 559 9586 pinupgirlclothing.com

Adornments for home, body and soul, featuring more than 100 artists who create cards, jewelry, metal, mixed media, paintings, pottery, prints and body products.

Shopping Museum of Contemporary Art Premier contemporary art venue. Continuing The Panza Collection and Selections From Major Gifts of Beatrice and Philip Gersh, Rita and Taft Schreiber, and Marcia Simon Weisman (GA); Destroy the Picture: Painting the Void, 1949–1962 (GA); Blues for Smoke; Taryn Simon: A Living Man Declared Dead and Other Chapters I–XVIII (GC). Ongoing MOCA Permanent Collection Masterworks 1945–1975 (GA). GA and GC: M, F 11 am–5 pm; Th 11 am–8 pm; Sa–Su 11 am–6 pm. PDC: Tu–F 11 am–5 pm, Sa–Su until 6 pm. $7–$12, under 12 free, Th 5–8 pm free; free at PDC. MOCA Grand Avenue (GA), 250 S. Grand Ave., downtown; Geffen Contemporary (GC), 152 N. Central Ave., downtown; MOCA Gallery at Pacific Design Center (PDC), 8687 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 213.626.6222 Map H16, H17, I12 Museum of Tolerance Exhibits examine prejudice and discrimination, legacy of the Holocaust and human-rights issues. Continuing Para Todos Los Niños: For All the Children. M–F 10 am–5 pm; Su 11 am–5 pm. $11.50–$15.50, under 5 free. 9786 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.553.8403 Map J11 Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County Thirty-three million objects from dino fossils to fish. See paleontologists preparing fossil specimens at Dino Lab. Age of Mammals is the permanent exhibition. The Dinosaur Hall is new; a highlight is the Tyrannosaurus rex growth series. Daily 9:30 am–5 pm. $5–$12, under 5 free. 900 Exposition Blvd., downtown, 213.763.3466 Map K15 Norton Simon Museum Stellar collection of Renaissance to 20th-century masterworks and sculpture garden. Continuing Significant Objects: The Spell of Still Life; Studies in Desperation: A Suite by Connor Everts. W–M noon–6 pm, F until 9 pm. $7–$10; students with photo ID, under 18 free. 411 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.449.6840 Map Q19 Petersen Automotive Museum Continuing Aerodynamics: From Art to Science; Sculpture in Motion: Masterpieces of Italian Design. Ongoing The Streetscape: The Car and the City in Southern California; Hollywood Gallery: Cars of Film & Television; Alternative Power: Lessons From the Past, Inspiration for the Future; Hot Wheels Hall of Fame. Tu–Su 10 am–6 pm. $3–$10, under 5 free. 6060 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.930.2277 Map J13

Mindfulnest 3319 West Magnolia Blvd.

818 840 0123 mindfulnest.com

An award-winning contemporary retail/resale boutique where you discover affordable luxury and your own unique style.

Skirball Cultural Center The American Jewish experience. Continuing Creating the United States; Decades of Dissent: Democracy in Action, 1960–1980; Free to Be U.S.—A First Amendment Experience. Ongoing Visions and Values: Jewish Life From Antiquity to America; Noah’s Ark at the Skirball. Tu–F noon–5 pm; Sa–Su 10 am–5 pm. $5–10, children under 2 free. 2701 N. Sepulveda Blvd., L.A., 310.440.4500 Map G9

Shopping Destinations Encore Nouveau 3323 West Magnolia Blvd.

818 848 3788 encorenouveau.com

Magnolia Park—the hub for Ladies Night Out, the famous shopping extravaganza held every last Friday of the month.

THE AMERICANA AT BRAND Huge downtown Glendale hot spot with Main Street, U.S.A., atmosphere and trolley from the creators of The Grove. Ninety stores and dining options. Boutiques include a Tiffany & Co. concept store, Kate Spade and Kiehl’s; other draws include H&M, Barneys CO-OP and Pacific Theatre cinema. Brand Boulevard and Americana Way, Glendale, 818.637.8900 Map southeast of T23 Beverly Center Trend-setting mall near West Hollywood has 160 boutiques (Tiffany & Co., Versace Collection, Fendi, Henri Bendel, Prada) and restaurants including the Capital Grille. Anchors include Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s. La Cienega and Beverly boulevards, L.A., 310.854.0070 Map I12 Fashion District This downtown neighborhood is a bargain hunter’s paradise. More than 1,000 stores sell to the public at 30%–70% discounts on apparel, accessories, textiles and flowers. Between Main and San Pedro streets; Olympic Boulevard and 7th Street, downtown, 213.488.1153 Map J16

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Shopping Fred Segal A multitude of international trends since 1968 began in what may be L.A.’s most famous store, an emporium of individually owned boutiques. Cafe and salon are popular for shoppers and drop-ins. 8100 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 310.394.1271; 420 and 500 Broadway, Santa Monica, 323.651.1935 Map I13, L8 The Grove Popular outdoor center has more than 50 shops, a Barneys CO-OP, Nordstrom and nine restaurants in a setting that suggests a grand old downtown. Movie theater, trolley and dancing fountain are draws. The Wall Street Journal rates concierge services No. 1 in the nation. Adjacent to Farmers Market. 3rd Street and Fairfax Avenue, L.A., 323.900.8080 Map I13 Hollywood & Highland CENTER Home of the Academy Awards’ Dolby Theatre. Tinseltown-themed retail, dining and entertainment center features several restaurants, cinema, high-tech bowling lanes and stores such as Louis Vuitton and Lucky Brand Jeans. Hollywood Boulevard and Highland Avenue, Hollywood, 323.467.6412 Map H13 Jewelry District Retailers offer 50%–70% savings on gems, watches and fine jewelry. At the St. Vincent’s Jewelry Center (645–650 S. Hill St.), you’ll find 500 jewelry merchants. Between Olive Street and Broadway, from 6th to 8th streets, downtown Map I16

Rose Tree Cottage A Regal English Afternoon Tea

malibu country mart Outdoor center tucked away in beach town with upscale boutiques such as Ron Herman, James Perse, Madison; galleries, spas, children’s play area. Restaurants include Tra di Noi. 3835 and 3900 Cross Creek Road, Malibu, 310.456.7300 Map northwest of K7

by reservation

Barbour Clothing • AGA Cookers • Teas • Foods • China

801 S. Pasadena Ave. • Pasadena 626-793-3337 • www.rosetreecottage.com

One COlorado Outdoor plaza with boutiques Voted by USA Today as one of the top tea experiences in America. such as Gold Bug, Kate Spade, Juicy Couture, Papyrus, Armani A/X and deluxe movie theater Ipic Theaters.

Refuel after retail therapy at Italian restaurant Il Fornaio or Sushi Roku. 41 Hugus Alley, Old Pasadena, Rose Tree Cottage_WLA_0912v2.indd 1 626.564.1066 Map Q19

LOS ANGELES ART GALLERY TOURS

ontario mills outlets California’s largest outlet shopping destination. Among 200 stores are Ralph Lauren, Hugo Boss Factory Store, DKNY, Saks Fifth Avenue Off 5th, Last Call by Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom Rack. Thirty-screen cineplex. 1 Mills Circle, Ontario, 909.484.8300 Map east of B6 Paseo Colorado Outdoor shopping promenade near Old Town features Loft, Coach and an ArcLight Cinemas. Los Robles Avenue and Colorado Boulevard, Pasadena, 626.795.8891 Map Q20 the pike at Rainbow Harbor Shopping and entertainment district links the Long Beach Convention Center to Rainbow Harbor’s waterfront and the Aquarium of the Pacific. Shops include Segway and Piccolo Books. 95 S. Pine Ave., Long Beach, 562.432.8325 Map N16 promenade on the peninsula Trilevel open-air shopping center in peaceful Palos Verdes boasts Equinox Fitness Club & Spa, J. Crew, White House/Black Market, Restoration Hardware and more. Cinema, ice-skating rink and casual dining. 500 Deep Valley Drive, Palos Verdes, 310.541.0688 Map O13

illuminating the los angeles art scene

Private, curated tours of one of the world’s hottest gallery scenes - come see what’s happening on the cutting edge of LA’s contemporary art. lagallerytours.com

310.650.9384

bill@lagallerytours.com

Elite Adventure Tours Experience the difference of a

Private Customized Celebrity Homes Tour of Los Angeles!

Santa monica place Sleek outdoor mall at one end of Third Street Promenade, two blocks from Santa Monica State Beach. Anchored by Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s. More than 80 boutiques including 7 for All Mankind, CB2 and Barneys CO-OP. Rooftop Dining Deck with food court, nine restaurants and gourmet market. 395 Santa Monica Place, Santa Monica, 310.394.1049 Map L8 Sunset Plaza Upscale row of boutiques and sidewalk cafes is L.A.’s Euro hang. Calypso, Ole Henriksen spa and H. Lorenzo stores. 8600–8700 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood Map H12

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Professional photos & unforgettable memories on every tour!

EliteAdventureTours.com 888.328.6871

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Nightlife Third Street Promenade Pedestrian-only shopping zone includes Zara, Cotton On, Converse, Anthropologie, kiosks and a wide array of very entertaining street performers. 3rd Street between Broadway and Wilshire Boulevard, Santa Monica Map L8 Two Rodeo Center with cobblestones in the heart of Beverly Hills features Versace, Stephen Webster and other high-end boutiques, plus restaurants including 208 Rodeo. At Rodeo Drive and Wilshire Boulevard, Beverly Hills, 310.247.7040 Map J11

LA’s hottest, upscale, funky, trendy children’s boutique!

Westfield Century City Sleek open-air mall with more than 175 stores, including Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s and Tiffany & Co. Luxe AMC multiplex with Imax screen, beautifully designed food court atrium and terrace. 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City, 310.277.3898 Map J11

Nightlife THE ABBEY Fixture of the WeHo gay scene serves flavored martinis galore. 692 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.289.8410 Map H12 the association The gang from Bar Copa and the Room turn out another nightlife mainstay. 110 E. 6th St., downtown, 213.627.7385 Map I16 BAR CHLOE Parisian-inspired lounge nearby Third Street Promenade. 1449 2nd St., Santa Monica, 310.899.6999 Map L8 BAR MARMONT Dreamy bar next door to historic Chateau Marmont. 8171 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.0575 Map H12 Barney’s Beanery Route 66 roadhouse bar.

8447 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.654.2287; 1351 3rd St., Santa Monica, 310.656.5777; 250 N. 1st St., Burbank, 818.524.2912 Map H12, M8, A3 basement tavern Underground speakeasy in a Victorian abode; live music. The Victorian, 2640 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.392.4956 Map M8 beer belly Tiny craft beer bar focusing on Southern California-brewed beers with a greasy/gourmet Sunday brunch. 532 S. Western Ave., Koreatown, 213.387.2337 Map B2

312 North Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills • 310 385 7110 M-F 10am-7pm • Sa-Su 10am-5pm

L.A. Bound Babies

rents out high-end baby gear to visiting families!

Britax car seats Strollers such as phil&teds, UppaBaby and mountain buggy High chairs such as PegPerego and The Lobster by phil&teds Dropcam baby monitors etc.

We will deliver throughout the greater Los Angeles areas (including Disneyland!)

N.Y. Bound Babies delivers to the greater New York areas

LOS ANGELES 310 935 4536

NEW YORK

646 820 8327

laboundbabies.com

7 days a week Rental prices range from $5 to $25 per day, depending on the item, plus a delivery charge depending on the location.

caña RUM BAR at the doheny Premium rum bar with some 140 small-batch rums and cigar pairings.

714 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.745.7090 Map I16 city tavern Brews, California wines and cocktails.

Booths outfitted with computerized craft brew taps; patrons pour their own. 9739 Culver Blvd., Culver City, 310.838.9739 Map L11 copa d’oro Design-your-own cocktails from a list of farmers-market ingredients. 217 Broadway, Santa Monica, 310.576.3030 Map L8 covell Intimate neighborhood wine bar.

4628 Hollywood Blvd., Los Feliz, 323.660.4400 Map W23 THE EDISON Posh renovated power plant. Get there early. Dress code. 108 W. 2nd St., downtown, 213.613.0000 Map H17 1886 Artisan cocktails inside retro restaurant the Raymond. 1250 S. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena, 626.441.3136 Map S19 Eleven Gay lounge in 1922 building. 8811 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.855.0800 Map H12

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Nightlife

SEE 10,000 REAL SHOWBIZ TREASURES AND 100 YEARS OF HOLLYWOOD!

el rey tHeatre Hot indie bands play art deco theater on Miracle Mile. 5515 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.936.6400 Map J13 Golden GopHer Chandeliers and Pac-Man tables.

Outdoor and indoor hangout options. 417 W. 8th St., downtown, 213.614.8001 Map I16 Golden road brewinG Brewery with a limited selection of signature beers plus 15 other selections on “guest taps.” 5410 W. San Fernando Road, Atwater Village, 213.373.4677 Map T23 Greystone manor supperClub Neo-Gothic dance club with entertainment from aerialists and other performers. 643 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.652.2012 Map I12 HarVard & stone Fine cocktails in a grittychic industrial space. 5221 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.466.6063 Map W22 HeminGway’s Sumptuous library-styled lounge. 6356 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.469.0040 Map H14 HiGH Boutique hotel’s rooftop bar with 360-degree views of Venice Beach. Hotel Erwin, 1697 Pacific Ave., Venice, 310.452.1111 Map N9 House of blues Name bands in faux bayou setting. 8430 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.848.5100 Map H12 Hyde SBE lounge that spawned offshoots around the country. Reservation recommended. 8029 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.525.2444; Hyde at Staples Center, 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 323.330.8018 Map I14, I15 James’ beaCH Pickup scene, super food. 60 N. Venice Blvd., Venice, 310.823.5396 Map N9 la desCarGa Cuban-inspired rum bar. Live band and dance performances. Reservation recommended; upscale dress code. 1159 N. Western Ave., Hollywood, 323.466.1324 Map east of H14 las perlas Festive tequila and mezcal bar with sophisticated cocktails. 107 E. 6th St., downtown, 213.988.8355 Map I16 lauGH faCtory Famed comedy nightclub. 8001 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.656.1336; 151 S. Pine Ave., Long Beach, 562.495.2844 Map H12, N16 library bar Classy nook with book theme is afterwork go-to. 630 W. 6th St., downtown, 213.614.0053 Map H16 little bear Belgian-style eats and imported and domestic beers in the arts district 1855 Industrial St., downtown, 213.622.8100 Map east of J17 los anGeles brewinG Company Two-level bar with 100 taps of beer. 750 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.622.0500 Map I16 luCky strike lanes High-tech bowling lounges.

Hollywood & Highland, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.467.7776; Del Amo Fashion Center, 3525 Carson St., Torrance, 310.802.7020; L.A. Live, 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 877.893.8259 Map H14, D3, I15 moHawk bend Hipster bar in the shell of an art deco theater with more than 70 craft beers on tap.

2141 W. Sunset Blvd., Echo Park, 213.483.2337 Map south of W23 neXt door lounGe Classic cocktails and 1920s panache. 1154 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, 323.465.5505 Map H15

DOWNTOWN LOS ANGELES Matted & Framed Prints

THE MOST EXTENSIVE COLLECTION OF HOLLYWOOD MEMORABILIA IN THE WORLD!

SEE THE STARS: Marilyn Monroe, Elvis, Leonard DiCaprio, George Clooney, Jennifer Lopez, Brad Pitt & Angelina Jolie.

SEE THE COSTUMES, PROPS AND MORE: I Love Lucy, Superman, Star Trek, Twilight, Planet of the Apes, Jaws, Glee, High School Musical, Sopranos, Rocky.

Rock

PLUS:

Greeting Cards Candles Jewelry Handbags Postcards & More 617 South Grand Avenue Los Angeles, CA 90017 213.598.6245 www.clarkwoodford.com facebook.com/clarksgallery

Vintage Photo Gallery, Star Car Collections, Hannibal Lector’s jail cell from Silence of the Lambs.

Max Factor’s world-famous makeup rooms where Marilyn Monroe became a blonde and Lucille Ball a redhead.

NEW EXHIBIT: “Television Legends” November 2012 Wednesday – Sunday: Open 10:00 am – 5:00 pm $15 Adults $12 Seniors & Kids under 12 $2.00 OFF with ad We accept CityPass and Go! Los Angeles

1660 N. Highland Ave. at Hollywood Blvd.

YOUR PRIVATE RIDE

TheHollywoodMuseum.com 323.464.7776

Like us on Facebook

Facebook.com/TheHollywoodMuseum

Follow us on Twitter @HollywoodMuseum

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artist: Jenny Floravita

Nightlife one-eyed gypsy Lounge is styled as a retro carnival with 1930s decor and midway games. 901 E. 1st St., downtown, one-eyedgypsy.com Map I17 The Otheroom Microbrews and wines by the glass, New York City-style. 1201 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.396.6230 Map N9 pagoda bar Poolside lounge at palatial restaurant with panoramic views of Hollywood. Yamashiro Restaurant, 1999 Sycamore Ave., Hollywood, 323.466.5125 Map H13 perch Open-air roost in a historic building; indoor cabaret lounge Bar Thirteen is underneath. 448 S. Hill St., downtown, 213.802.1770 Map I16 THE roger room Hidden speakeasy with creative cocktails. 370 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.854.1300 Map J12 THE ROXY Historic rock ‘n’ roll venue on the strip. 9009 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.276.2222 Map H12 rush street Culver City’s full of wine bars, but this huge Chicago-style hangout has all the libations. 9546 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.837.9546 Map L11 The Satellite Alt-music venue (formerly known as Spaceland) books under-the-radar indie bands. 1717 Silver Lake Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.661.4380 Map W23 the sayers club Exclusive neo-speak-easy with a secret entrance from inside hot-dog joint Papaya King. 1645 Wilcox Ave., Hollywood, 323.871.8233 Map H14

S TA I N E D G L A S S & G A L L E RY “Largest Selection of Artglass in Los Angeles”

1426 4th St • Santa Monica, CA 90401 310.451.9390 • www.adammsgallery.com

Sizes 12 & up

Adamms_WLA_0812v2.indd 1

seventy 7 Hidden, mixology-focused speak-easy; look for the alley entrance. 3843 Main St., Culver City, 310.559.7707 Map L11

7/10/12 10:25 AM

Skybar Chic open-air roost with a view at the Mondrian hotel. Reservations required. 8440 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.848.6025 Map H12 The Spare Room Lounge with bowling lanes and fab cocktails. Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.466.7000 Map H13 The Standard DOWNTOWN Rooftop bar with panoramic city views, pool, vibrating red waterbeds. 550 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.892.8080 Map I16

Your Source for quality seating

THE STANDARD HOLLYWOOD Lounge with swinging seats, glowing purple walls. 8300 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.9090 Map H12 £10 Pronounced “ten pound,” this whisky bar in the Montage Beverly Hills specializes in single-malt whisky from the Macallan. 225 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.860.7800 Map J11 thirsty crow Whisky and bourbon bar.

2939 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.661.6007 Map south of W23 Tropicana Bar Poolside hot spot at the Roosevelt Hotel. 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.466.7000 Map H13

The only upscale boutique in greater Los Angeles for women size 12 and up.

From comfortable to casual or dressy— classic to funky or fun: Abundance has it all!

13604 Ventura Blvd. Sherman Oaks

818.990.6128

AbundancePlusSizes.com

Local Hotel Delivery All Major Credit Cards Accepted Open 7 Days a Week Any Event 20 Years of Personal Service

310-207-1226

TROUBADOUR Historic spot books up-and-coming alt-rock and local bands. 9081 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.276.6168 Map H12 vampire lounge & Tasting ROom Gothic wine bar with Vampire Vineyards wines, small plates and cheeses. 9865 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.826.7473 Map I11 the varnish The mixing of Prohibition-era cocktails is an art form at this bar in the back of Cole’s diner.

118 E. 6th St., downtown, 213.622.9999 Map I17

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Tours +Transport

INDOOR KART RACING

the writers room The refurbished “back room” of Musso & Frank does mixology. 6685 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.491.4148 Map H16 WurstKÜCHE Exotic sausage and beer hall is a popular, boisterous neighborhood hangout. Try the duck-bacon-jalapeño frank. 800 E. Third St., downtown; 625 Lincoln Blvd., Venice. 213.687.4444 Map I17, M9 X BAR Indoor-outdoor playpen for CAA and ICM talent agents. Hyatt Regency Century Plaza, 2025 Avenue of the Stars, Century City, 310.228.1234 Map J11

Tours + Transport

ARRIVE & DRIVE . BIRTHDAY PARTIES

Amtrak Train and bus service within the county, along the coast and to major California locations.

Nationwide connections, multiple-day rail passes.

Stations in Burbank, downtown (Union Station), Long Beach, Pasadena and Van Nuys. The Coast Starlight connects L.A. to Ventura, Santa Barbara, San Francisco, Portland and Seattle. 800.872.7245, amtrak.com another side OF LOS ANGELES tours A wide variety of focused tours, organized by interest—whale watching, shopping, celebrity homes—or mode of transportation (kayak, Segway, horseback, helicopter).

1102 S. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.289.8687 Beverly Hills Rent-a-Car Luxury and exotic rentals with pickup service. Hollywood, 310.659.5555; Beverly Hills, 310.274.6969; LAX, 310.670.2020; Marina del Rey, 310.862.1900

ADULTS AND JUNIORS 48” AND UP (310) 532-2478 K1SPEED.com

K1 SPEED TORRANCE 19038 S VERMONT AVE

AZ - PHOENIX, CA - CARLSBAD . IRVINE . ANAHEIM . TORRANCE . ONTARIO SANTA CLARA . SAN FRANCISCO . SACRAMENTO, FL - FT. LAUDERDALE TX - AUSTIN . HOUSTON, WA - SEATTLE

Beverly Hills Trolley Tour Forty-minute tour of landmarks, attractions; departs from Rodeo Drive and Dayton Way. Sa-Su 11 am–4 pm. $5–$10.

310.285.2442 Map J11 bikes & SAIL ADVENTURE Biking and/or sailing tours in customizable or preset itineraries. Exclusive Bike & Hike Sail Adventure includes all three activities. Halfor full-day bike rentals. 8743 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.796.8555 Map I12 CityPass Hollywood CityPass offers discounted admission to Starline Movie Stars Homes Tour, Behind-the-Scenes Hollywood walking tour with Red Line Tours, Hollyood Wax Museum and either the Dolby Theatre tour or Hollywood Museum access. $59, ages 3–11 $39, under 3 free. Purchase pass at attractions. Southern California CityPass ($279) includes admission to theme parks from L.A. to San Diego. 888.330.5008, citypass.com ELITE ADVENTURE TOURS Unique, upscale tours, including helicopter and wine tours, with first class service. Includes pick-up and drop off at hotel or airport. Reservations Required. 888.328.6871, eliteadventuretours.com/index.php enterprise rent-a-car Dependable car rental service. 1944 S. Figueroa Blvd., downtown; 1234 S. La Brea Ave., L.A.; 8367 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood; 265 N. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills. 866.458.9227, enterprise.com Map J15, J13, H12, J12 execucar Premier luxury sedan service. Sedan and SUV service, flat rates, special group services, and frequent-flier points and miles with select airlines.

800.410.4444, execucar.com L.A. Art gallery tours Tours of local art-gallery destinations. Choose a geographical area of focus from Culver City/Mid-Wilshire, Chinatown/downtown or Santa Monica/Venice. Tu–Sa 10 am–6 pm. $40–$50 per person; varies by group size. 310.650.9384, losangelesartgallerytours.com

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Tours +Transport malibu disCoVery tours Themed tours in and around Malibu include the six-hour Malibu Wine Trail Tour with wine tastings, Sunrise Hiking Tour, Malibu Whale Watching & Celebrity Homes Boat Tour (December through May) and Malibu Celebrity Lifestyle Tour. 310.393.6555, malibugrapes.com

Movie StarS HoMeS tour

meltinG pot food tours Tasting tours of foodie destinations such as Farmers Market or a selection of restaurants. Private tours available.

Reservation required. $53–$59. 424.247.9666; tickets, 800.979.3370, meltingpottours.com

The Original & Best

metro City bus, light rail and subway. Rail lines connect downtown, Hollywood, Pasadena, Long Beach.

Underground Red Line from Union Station through Hollywood to San Fernando Valley; Gold Line from Union Station to Pasadena; Blue Line from Union Station to Long Beach; Green Line from Norwalk to Redondo Beach; Expo Line from Culver City to downtown. $6 day pass. 323.466.3876, metro.net

Includes over 40 celebrity Homes, views of Hollywood Sign, Sunset Strip, Walk of Fame, Chinese Theatre and Rodeo Drive.

Los Angeles World’s Largest Open-Top double-decker narrated city tour. Over 50 stops including Hollywood, Santa Monica, Beverly Hills and Downtown LA. Tickets valid for 24 or 48 hours.

Hollywood as only TMZ can show you!

Inside info about celebrities & hotspots.

Grand City tour of La 5½ Hour Escorted City Tour This Multilingual Tour is available in: English

Spanish

Portuguese

Korean

Japanese

Chinese

German

French

Italian

/starlinetours

Tel: 1-800-959-3131 or 1-323-463-3333 Main Starline Terminal is at Grauman’s Chinese Theatre, 6925 Hollywood Blvd.

Santa Monica Office is on Santa Monica Pier Anaheim Terminal is at Jolly Roger Hotel, 640 West Katella Ave.

5

$

OFF

PEr PErSON FOr ANY TOUr TICKETS*

sunset ranCH Horseback riding in the Hollywood Hills and Griffith Park daily. Sunset rides through Griffith Park to Burbank include dinner at Mexican restaurant and nighttime ride back to ranch (reservation required except for on Fridays). $40–$100. 3400 N. Beachwood Drive, Hollywood, 323.469.5450 Map V21 supersHuttle Shared-ride shuttle service to and from airport. Group rates, charters, and frequent-flier points and miles with select airlines. 800.258.3826, supershuttle.com take my motHer please Enthusiastic, “curly headed” Arkansas native packs up to five of your visiting relatives (or other VIPs) in a new hybrid SUV for customized tour of “gloriously unusual” sights.

323.737.2200 tmz Hollywood tour Bus tour with state-of-theart audio/video system explores celebrity haunts and sites of famous scandals. TMZ Guides are at the ready to interview celebrities and send footage back to the newsroom. $53–$63. Starline Tours, 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 855.486.9868 Map H13

1-hour Hollywood Fun Tours, Beach Tours, Disneyland, Universal Studios Hollywood, Warner Bros VIP Tour, Six Flags, San Diego and Tijuana

starlinetours.com

olympiC rent-a-Car Luxury sedans and exotics outfitted with Sirius and XM satellite radio service. Cars on offer include those by BMW, Lexus, Audi, Bentley and Porsche. 9230 W. Olympic Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.285.9800 Map K12 starline tours Movie Stars’ Home Tour, Trolley Fun Tour, Grand Tour of L.A. Prices vary. Tours begin at Grauman’s Chinese Theatre, 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 800.959.3131 Map H13

More than a Tour...It’s a Show on Wheels!

otHer tourS inCLude:

metrolink Regional train system connects Los Angeles County with Ventura, Orange and San Diego counties. Six of seven Metrolink rail lines (including the Orange County lines, San Bernardino lines and Ventura County lines) begin at Union Station in downtown Los Angeles. 800.371.5465, metrolinktrains.com

SPECIAL WHErE OFFEr

tourifiC esCapes Husband-and-wife team offer sightseeing and food tours such as Hollywood Sites and Bites and Chocolate Indulgence. Prices vary.

424.248.8687, tourificescapes.com urban sHoppinG adVentures Group tours of Melrose Heights, downtown Fashion District.

Transportation, shopping tips, maps, goody bags. $36–$54. 213.683.9715 Map I1

*VALID FOR ANY STARLINE TOUR EXCLUDING “SPECIALS”. HOTEL PICK-UPS AVAILABLE. NOT VALID WITH ANY OTHER DISCOUNT. NOT VALID FOR ONLINE RESERVATIONS OR PRIOR BOOKINGS. VALID ONLY FOR CUSTOMERS WHO PURCHASE TICKETS DIRECTLY AT STARLINE KIOSK AT CHINESE THEATRE OR CONTACT STARLINE DIRECTLY AT 1-323-463-3333 OR 1-800-959-3131. VALID THROUGH 3/15/13, EXCLUDING 12/29/12 THROUGH 1/2/13.

where?

Log on anywhere.

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GO METRO Despite what you may have heard, you can get to many Los Angeles attractions without a car. Metro is the nation’s second-largest public transportation agency, operating 2,200 buses and six rail lines, including a subway that can take you from downtown to Hollywood in about 15 minutes.

Whether you’re interested in seeing stars along the legendary Hollywood Walk of Fame, catching rays at Santa Monica Beach or touring any number of L.A. landmarks, Metro can take you there.

Where to Start

Use the Trip Planner at metro.net or call 323.GO.METRO for customized travel itineraries.

Note that some popular attractions served by Metro Rail are listed to the right.

Fares

Metro’s base fare is $1.50. Pay each time you board a Metro bus (drivers don’t carry change, so you’ll need exact fare) or at a self-service ticket vending machine when entering Metro Rail stations.

For complete information, check metro.net.

Two children under the age of 5 may travel free with each fare-paying adult.

Eating and drinking is not permitted on any Metro bus or train.

Note: Metro has installed turnstiles at many Metro Rail stations; others simply operate on the honor system. However, fare inspectors randomly check passengers for valid tickets or passes. You may never be checked, but if you are and you don’t have proof of valid fare, the inspector may issue a citation and you may be fined.

Hours

Most bus and rail lines start around 4 a.m. and keep running past midnight. But they’re less frequent in the late evening, so check the timetables at metro.net regarding your return trip.

Metro Rail Destinations

Here’s a sampling of attractions that are within easy walking distance of Metro Rail stations: METRO RED/PURPLE LINE Union Station • Olvera Street

Civic Center • Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels • Museum of Contemporary Art • Music Center • Walt Disney Concert Hall 7th Street/Metro Center • Macy’s Plaza (dining, shops) Hollywood/Vine • Capitol Records Tower • Hollywood Walk of Fame • Pantages Theatre Hollywood/Highland • Grauman’s Chinese Theatre • Hollywood & Highland (dining, shops) Universal City • Gibson Amphitheater • Universal CityWalk (dining, shops) • Universal Studios Hollywood North Hollywood • El Portal Center for the Arts • NoHo Arts District (dining, shops, theatres)

METRO BLUE LINE

Pico • Los Angeles Convention Center • STAPLES Center/L.A. LIVE 103rd Street • Watts Towers Transit Mall • Long Beach Aquarium of the Pacific • Pine Avenue (dining, shops) • Queen Mary

METRO GOLD LINE

Little Tokyo/Arts District • Japanese American National Museum Memorial Park • Norton Simon Museum Lake Avenue • Pasadena Playhouse

METRO EXPO LINE

Expo Park/USC Station • California Science Center SEE THE METRO ROUTE MAP ON PAGE 111

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30 things we love Los Angeles

1

The margarita bar and modern Mexican eats at Tortilla Republic in West Hollywood.

310.657.9888 Expert aesthetic services at Queen Bee Salon & Spa in Brentwood. 310.570.2282

11

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Cool basics at James Perse in Hollywood. 323.466.1808 The tropical patio at James’ Beach in Venice. p. 102 The rooftop patio at Perch downtown. p. 103

Live jazz and art shows at Bluewhale downtown.

213.620.0908

Boho jewelry at new Casmaine in Santa Monica.

310.995.8983

Sea urchin panna cotta at Osteria Drago in West Hollywood. 310.657.1182

Jamming with instruments at Zimmer Children’s Museum in the Miracle Mile District.

323.761.8984

Simulated sky diving at iFly Hollywood at Universal CityWalk. 818.985.4359 The Raw Tailored Atelier denim-customizing service at G-Star Raw in Beverly Hills.

310.358.0790 The Roman-inspired architecture and gardens at the Getty Villa in Pacific Palisades. p. 98

where in the world

Cutting-edge contemporary art at Blum & Poe in Culver City.

310.836.2062

Asian shaved-ice treats at Sweet Crush Ice Bar in Brentwood. 310.820.0607 Edgy couture at Opening Ceremony on La Cienega Boulevard. 310.652.1120 Mixology classes at Wolfgang Puck at the Hotel Bel-Air. p. 8 The Links at Terranea in Palos Verdes. 310.265.2800 Having a picnic at Greystone Mansion and Park in Beverly Hills. 310.285.6830 Metropolis II at the Los Angeles Country Museum of Art in the Miracle Mile District. p. 98

The peanut butter pretzel chip cookie at Sprinkles Ice Cream in Beverly Hills.

310.274.7890

The Wolfmother burger at Savory in Malibu. p. 62

The splash pad at new urban oasis Grand Park downtown. p. 49

Doggy fashions at The Modern Dog in Venice.

310.450.2275

Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com UNITED STATES Alaska, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Denver, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul,

25 Skyline views from Skybar in West Hollywood. p. 103 Reservation-only whiskey bar £10 at the Montage Beverly Hills. p. 20 Custom-blended body products at Persephenie on South Edinburgh Avenue.

323.658.7507 Cool specs from the Warby Parker pop-up at Confederacy in Los Feliz. 323.913.3040 Cheering on the Los Angeles Lakers at the Staples Center downtown. p. 88 Stargazing at the Griffith Observatory in Griffith Park. p. 92 French-inspired cocktails and trés chic ambience at Pour Vous on Melrose Avenue.

323.871.8699

New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

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Carmen Steffens Exclusive handcrafted shoes, handbags and accessories Voted 2012 Los Angeles Shoe Store of the Year

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Madrid

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Rio de Janeiro Hollywood Sao Paulo Buenos Aires Punta del Este Visit our new flagship store at the Hollywood & Highland Center

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