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Los Angeles


In the Mix




[ The Dining Issue ]



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Salvador DalĂ­ (1904-1989). Conquest of Cosmos: Saturnian Giraffe, 1974. Color Lithograph with Engraving on Paper.

Over 75 Original Paintings, Graphics and BATs On Exhibition Janurary through February 2013

Visit us at the Los Angeles Art Show, 23-27 January 2013



Building Museum Quality Collections One Work at a Time

224 North Via Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, CA 90210 T: 310.273.3377 F: 310.273.0879 Old Masters | Modern Masters | 19th Century Painting | Barbizon School | Florence Academy

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where Los Angeles 01.13 the guide 68 DINING

Restaurants by cuisine and neighborhood


Special events, sports and performing arts

86 ATTRACTIONS + MUSEUMS Sights, parks, studio tours and exhibitions


The best in retail destinations


Top spots for beauty and relaxation


Hottest clubs, lounges and bars

96 TOURS + TRANSPORT Getting out, getting around


Navigate the county



where now


14 Dining Trends for 2013 New Spago in Beverly Hills Animal instinct at Bestia downtown

20 Pizza, Please The dish du jour is pizza, an old favorite that’s experiencing an incredible revival in L.A. BY ROGER GRODY

16 Shopping Jump for joy at Joie in West Hollywood Just desserts at Sweet! Hollywood

26 Cocktail Confidential Neospeakeasies, reservation-only drinking dens, hidden dance clubs— the hottest L.A. nightspots have an air of secrecy. BY KATIE McCARTHY 66 Couples in the Kitchen In some restaurants, cooking with love is more than a cliché. Meet L.A.’s hottest culinary couples. BY ROGER GRODY

34 38 42 46 50 54 60 62

Beverly Hills Santa Monica West Hollywood Hollywood Downtown Pasadena The Valley South Bay

ALSO INSIDE 8 11 18 104


ON THE COVER Margherita pizza from Stella Rossa Pizza Bar in Santa Monica. See the feature on page 20. CONNECT WITH US ONLINE

Get the buzz on the go! Find hundreds of L.A. destinations with the Where USA iPhone app, available in the App Store.


Roasted fall squash, farro and kale at Rustic Canyon in Santa Monica


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Artist Series No. 1 Cristiana Couceiro

INTRODUCING THE RUNWAY COLLECTION Vince Madewell J.Crew Mens Shop Michael Kors Nordstrom styleha端s Coming Soon: Topshop Topman


Download the new Grove App And visit

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where m Ag A z ine

On the Web:

ancient wisdom in a modern world

publisher Jeff Levy eDiTOr Katie McCarthy ArT DireCTOr Carol Wakano MArKeTiNG DireCTOr

Audrey Nimura

AssOCiATe ArT DireCTOr prODuCTiON ArTisT

Heidi Schwindt

Ryan Furuya

Suzanne Ennis Benjamin Epstein

AssOCiATe eDiTOr eDiTOr iN ChieF

CONTribuTiNG WriTers

Leah Bigelow, Riley Carter, Roger Grody, Jessica Radloff, Libby Slate CONTribuTiNG phOTOGrAphers

Dale Berman, Amy K. Fellows, Sarah Hadley, Bjarne G. Jensen, Mark Lipski, Monica Nouwens, Edwin Santiago, Ashok Sinha, Christopher Ian Smith, Ian White ACCOuNT MANAGers

Krishna Gil, Sara Kemp, Mali Mochow, Kerry Brewer, April Driggers, Heather Howard-Heintz, Joanna McLean seNiOr CirCulATiON & speCiAl eVeNTs MANAGer

Christine Noriega

prODuCTiON MANAGer Dawn Kiko Cheng Web eDiTOr Christina Xenos ADMiNisTrATiON

Beth Moline, Jordan Fraser, Leanne Killian, Sarah Trainor © Carol Beckwith & Angela Fisher

no strangers is a group show about the richness of indigenous people across the globe. From Mongolia to Colombia to Kenya to Borneo, experience the different ways we navigate daily life. The no strangers exhibit is guest curated by esteemed anthropologist, author and photographer Wade Davis. It features an original short documentary film including interviews with photographers Carol Beckwith & Angela Fisher, Wade Davis, Chris Johns, Lynn Johnson, Steve McCurry, Randy Olson, Chris Rainier, Hamid Sardar-Afkhami and more.

ViCe presiDeNT OF NATiONAl sAles Rick Mollineaux 202.463.4550 WesT COAsT NATiONAl sAles Tiffany Reinhold 714.813.6600 DireCTOr OF NATiONAl DiGiTAl sAles Bridget Cody 706.821.6663 hONOrAry presiDeNT

Ted Levy

where Los Angeles

3679 Motor Ave., suite 300 los Angeles, California 90034 phone: 310.280.2880 Fax: 310.280.2890 eMAil Advertising editorial Art production Website Circulation plan for your next visit to los Angeles. subscribe to where: single copy $4, 12 issues $36. Contact: Christine Noriega. phone: 310.280.2880 email:

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© 2013 Southern California Media Group. All rights reserved. published by southern California Media Group. where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor publications.

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where los Angeles magazine is pleased to be a member of: Greater los Angeles Convention and Visitors bureau, santa Monica Area Chamber of Commerce, California restaurant Association, CalTiA, beverly hills Chamber of Commerce, los Angeles Concierge Association.



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Anthropologie Apple Barnes & Noble Barneys New York CO-OP Chi Dynasty Cole Haan Crewcuts Deluca’s Italian Deli Frida Mexican Cuisine Ilori J.Crew Kate Spade Katsuya Kiehl’s Since 1851 Lacoste Madewell Pacific Theatres 18-Plex Sephora Sur La Table Tiffany & Co. Tumi Trattoria Amici Urban Outfitters and so much more!


Balloonist |

My favorite day at The Americana at Brand is filled with color. I’m always drawn to the boldness of Kate Spade… the gold, the pink, the glitter… I want everything in the store! At Anthropologie, I make a beeline for the most striking jewelry and prints. Over to DeLuca’s Italian Deli for lunch. I always order the tuna and white bean salad, and macarons. At Ilori, I fall in love with the Prada Baroque sunglasses and at Sur La Table I look over the stunning Le Creuset cookware. Talk about color. Finally, I stock up on some Nars lipsticks at Sephora. It’s another sparkling day at The Americana at Brand. The Americana at Brand


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skate with us!

ice at santa monica NOVEMBER 2—JANUARY 21

A note from the editor

NEW YEAR, NEW FOOD Did you indulge in food and drink during the holiday season? Maybe

You’re invited to join the fun as we celebrate ICE at Santa Monica, Downtown Santa Monica’s premier outdoor skating rink.

even overindulge? Did you stuff yourself with so much of that plump Thanksgiving turkey that you worried you might be foisted onto a table and stuffed yourself? Did you find yourself sneaking chocolates out of the kids’ advent calendars and blaming it on the dog before realizing you don’t have a dog? Did you crack open a bottle of Champagne on New year’s eve and, seeing the quizzical expressions on your guests’ faces, remember you forgot to share it? Are you making promises of dieting and temperance

Admission and Skate Rental: $12 1324 5th Street, Santa Monica, CA Corner of 5th St. and Arizona Ave.

in the wake of this unabashed excess? if so, all i can say is, fooey on your New year’s resolutions. your visit to los Angeles presents you with more reasons to carry on eating, drinking and being merry than ever before. how could you miss poutine, fresh pasta and the revival of chicken and waffles (p. 12)? Or a pie from one of the hot new pizza

bakery & Cafe (p. 66)? Ditch your diet, dig in to our Dining issue with abandon and remember: There’s always next year ... as long as you don’t visit l.A. again. —KATIE McCARTHY


joints (p. 20), or one of Zoe Nathan’s revelatory pastries at huckleberry


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CoME SkatE wIth uS! ice at santa monica NOVEMBER 2, 2012—JANUARY 21, 2013

You’re invited to join the fun as we celebrate ICE at Santa Monica, Downtown Santa Monica’s premier outdoor skating rink. 1324 5th Street, Santa Monica, CA | Corner of 5th St. and Arizona Ave.

Admission and Skate Rental: $12

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TCHAIKOVSKY AND TAN DUN JAN 4-6 Los Angeles Philharmonic Christoph Eschenbach conductor Martin Grubinger percussion The intense German maestro leads a fascinating contrast: a new percussion concerto by Tan Dun (Oscar-winning composer of Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon), and one of the most popular symphonies in the Romantic Russian repertoire, Tchaikovsky’s Fourth Symphony.

PROKOFIEV AND THE PLANETS JAN 10-12 Los Angeles Philharmonic Vassily Sinaisky conductor Leonidas Kavakos violin Women of the Pacific Chorale John Alexander, Artistic Director Greek virtuoso Leonidas Kavakos shows his mettle in Prokofiev’s popular Violin Concerto No. 2. The Bolshoi’s Artistic Director Vassily Sinaisky leads Holst’s powerful, mystical and heroic evocation of the planets. There’s no mystery as to why it’s so popular!

TWO MAGNIFICENT VOICES JAN 19 Renée Fleming soprano Susan Graham mezzo-soprano Two of the world’s biggest opera stars join together for a very rare recital of duets. This will be a lively evening of selections from the French, German and American repertoire. Prepare to be dazzled. Media sponsor: 89.3 KPCC

Special Offer

Purchase tickets with code “GUEST” at and receive 10% off on purchases at the LA Phil Store by presenting your ticket at register.

MOZART AND BEETHOVEN JAN 24 -26 Los Angeles Philharmonic Ludovic Morlot conductor Emanuel Ax piano One of the most famous pieces of music on the planet is Beethoven’s powerful, heroic Fifth Symphony. You’ll also hear L.A. favorite Emanuel Ax performing one of Mozart’s grandest piano concertos, No. 25.

Order Your Tickets Today! • 323.850.2000 • Programs, artists, prices and dates subject to change

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Hot Dates 01.13

THROUGH JAN. 2 TOURNAMENT OF ROSES One million people descend on Pasadena for the Rose Parade and Rose Bowl football game. The parade features marching bands, equestrian units and flowerbedecked floats, while the Rose Bowl sees the Wisconsin Badgers battle Stanford Cardinal. Don’t miss the post-parade showcase of floats. THROUGH JAN. 6 NOTHING TO HIDE Neil Patrick Harris directs this magic show-meets-theatrical event at the Geffen Playhouse in Westwood. Two top magicians, Helder Guimarães and Derek DelGaudio, perform a series of sly vignettes that elicit laughs and utter astonishment. JAN. 12–13 LOS ANGELES TRAVEL & ADVENTURE SHOW Book a trip, win a prize and try ziplining or scuba at California’s largest travel show, held in the Long Beach Convention Center. Hundreds of travel experts and tour operators, plus guest speakers including Rick Steves and Jean-Michel Cousteau, are on hand.

Danny Galieote, Clandestine Persuasion (2012), on display at the L.A. Art Show downtown

JAN. 23–27


Art for All It’s official: January is Los Angeles Arts Month, and thanks to the city’s rising clout as a world-class center for buying and making art, the energy surrounding this year’s celebratory cultural offerings is palpable. Anchoring the month’s must-see events is the 18th annual L.A. Art Show, the longest running venue for contemporary, modern, historic and traditional art in the country. Held in the Los Angeles Convention Center downtown, the show was attended by 50,000 visitors last year and featured 100 national and international galleries. This year, organizers expand the event to a four-for-one art extravaganza. One ticket gains entrance into four distinct sections: the Modern & Contemporary Section, the Historic & Traditional Section, the Vintage Poster Section and the IFPDA Los Angeles Print Fair. p. 85 NEARBY Take a True Crime or Literary L.A. bus tour through downtown with Esotouric (

Explore Peruvian cuisine (lomo saltado!) at Mo-Chica (213.622.3744) from Food & Wine Best New Chef Ricardo Zarate. Find a variety of rums and rum cocktails at Caña Rum Bar (213.745.7090).


JAN. 17–21 PHOTO L.A. Galleries, artists, private dealers, collectors and publishers mingle at the intersection of art and photography when the 22nd Los Angeles International Photographic Art Exposition comes to the Santa Monica Civic Auditorium. Expect cutting-edge lectures, panels and collecting seminars. JAN. 20–21 LADY GAGA Grammy award winner, Twitter queen and pop-star extraordinaire Lady Gaga brings the Born This Way Ball World Tour to L.A. For two nights only, Gaga’s “Little Monsters” can rock out to her tunes at the Staples Center downtown. JAN. 22–23, 25–27 SHEN YUN PERFORMING ARTS Five thousand years of Chinese civilization come to life when Shen Yun’s world-renowned dancers and musicians take the stage at the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion and Thousand Oaks Performing Arts Center. The show dazzles with 100 artists, 400 costumes, animated backdrops and an orchestra. JAN. 24–27 ART LOS ANGELES CONTEMPORARY In its fourth year, L.A.-centric ALAC brings more than 70 top emerging and established galleries to the Barker Hangar in Santa Monica to showcase their top artists. This year, the fair’s partnership with Ceci N’est Pas promises a Francophile element to the programming and exhibition space. For more information on these events, see p. 85. HERE FOR THE WEEKEND? Go to for our Weekend Roundup, where you can get the lowdown on the coolest festivals, performing arts events, dining promotions and more.

Spago, Wolfgang Puck’s flagship restaurant, is considered influential in the creation of California cuisine, but the name is actually Italian, a slang word for spaghetti. p. 14


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where now Los Angeles

The best in dining and shopping


As we enter the new year, we witness the emergence—or persistence, in a few cases—of some fascinating and delicious culinary trends on the ever-evolving L.A. dining scene. Here’s a sampling of what’s in vogue. COUPLE OF THE YEAR: CHICKEN AND WAFFLES

One version of this dish’s lineage traces it back to Harlem during the Jazz Age, when musicians finishing up a late set combined midnight snack and breakfast. In L.A., the minichain Roscoe’s House of Chicken & Waffles makes it a winning combo, but the dish pops up at hip eateries and even fine dining spots. Hollywood’s Wood & Vine (pictured) serves it with sage brown butter, while a more elegant version is found at Thomas Keller’s Bouchon in Beverly Hills, on the brunch menu. There, perfectly roasted chicken is paired with a bacon-chive waffle, Tahitian vanilla bean butter and sauce chasseur.

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The Tripel in Playa del Rey

quality is high. With new restaurants such as Black Hogg and Flying Pig Café opening around town, you know the theme has really caught on. With advance notice, a party of 14 can feast on a whole suckling pig at Pasadena’s Haven Gastropub + Brewery. THE FRESHEST FETTUCCINE

There is definitely a difference in taste between dried and fresh, scratch-made pasta. With the fresh variety, the pasta itself is part of the flavor profile, as opposed to merely being a vehicle for a sauce. For that reason, as well as a delicate texture, it’s favored by some of the best chefs in town. At Gusto, chef Victor Casanova turns them out with the love of a Sicilian grandmother, while the two talented chef-owners at Sotto wouldn’t serve anything but their own handcrafted casarecce. And West Hollywood’s Mercato di Vetro shows what freshly made fettuccine can do for a plate of carbonara. THE POUTINE ROUTINE

Poutine, the French-Canadian dish of frites and cheese curds bathed in gravy—the Québécois equivalent to the Windy City’s cheese fries—is so popular it’s even on the menu at McDonald’s north of the border. Now it’s turning up on some of the trendiest menus in L.A. At The Parish, chef Casey Lane’s hot new gastropub, variations include fried oysters or pig’s feet with Taleggio cheese. Poutine is a specialty of the house at Westwood’s P’tit Soleil, where Cognac cream and Bolognese sauces are among the many options. And check your Twitter feed for the location of Gravy Train Poutinerie, a bona fide poutine truck! GASTROPUBLICITY

The popularity of the gastropub—a trend originally imported from Great Britain, where a culinary revolution rages on—shows no signs of slowing down in L.A. Passionate young chefs love cooking in a low-overhead

pub setting, allowing them to focus on great ingredients and innovation. Even veteran celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay is getting into the act with The Fat Cow at the Grove. And chef Brandon Boudet (Dominick’s) has introduced notes of sophistication into a menu of traditional Irish faves at newly revitalized Tom Bergin’s Tavern. Other standouts include The Village Idiot, Laurel Tavern and old standby Waterloo & City. PORKOLOGY

Starlets picking at salads or vegetarians obsessed with tofu are outdated stereotypes of diners in L.A., who are consuming pork fat at record levels. Every part of the pig, from nose to tail, is now celebrated on menus. Pigg, one of five eateries sharing space at burger guru Adam Fleischman’s Umamicatessen downtown, features riffs on everything from pig’s ears to tails to brains. Acclaimed San Francisco chef Chris Cosentino, a proud porkophile, is at the helm, so


Craft beers remain popular in L.A., but that trend is a bit 2012. Moving into the new year, the rage is beer cocktails. Find a selection of the gastropub specialty at chef Brooke Williamson’s The Tripel in Playa del Rey, including a concoction of Hefeweizen, pear cider and pear puree called the Bavarian Pear. Slater’s 50/50, an upscale burger joint from Orange County with a new location in Pasadena, also offers a selection of beer cocktails to pair with an intense burger that’s half ground beef and half ground bacon. And the new Superba Snack Bar pairs beer cocktails (even beer sangría) with pheasant rillettes, fried chicken and chocolate pappardelle. At Silver Lake’s Diablo Taco, your glass of beer arrives with a popsicle laid across the top, a deconstructed beer cocktail of sorts. It’s a blend of organic tomato juice, lime, chiles and spices for dunking into the brew. And for a beer–ice cream float, head to The Federal Bar in North Hollywood. —Roger Grody


DETAILS Black Hogg 2852 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.953.2820 Bouchon 235 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.271.9910

Diablo Taco 3129 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.666.4666 The Fat Cow The Grove, 189 The Grove Drive, L.A., 323.965.1020 The Federal Bar 5303 Lankershim Blvd., North Hollywood, 818.980.2555 Flying Pig Café 141 S. Central Ave., downtown, 213.621.0300 Gravy Train Poutinerie Gusto 8432 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.782.1778 Haven Gastropub + Brewery 42 S. De Lacey Ave., Pasadena, 626.768.9555 The Parish 840 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.225.2400 Laurel Tavern 11938 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.506.0777 Mercato di Vetro 9077 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.859.8369 P’tit Soleil 1386 Westwood Blvd., Westwood, 310.441.5384 Umamicatessen 852 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.413.8626 Roscoe’s House of Chicken & Waffles 1514 N. Gower St., Hollywood, 323.466.7453; other locations Slater’s 50/50 61 N. Raymond Ave., Pasadena, 626.765.9700 Sotto 9575 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.277.0210 Superba Snack Bar 533 Rose Ave., Venice, 310.399.6400 Tom Bergin’s Tavern 840 S. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.936.7151 The Tripel 333 Culver Blvd., Playa del Rey, 310.821.0333 The Village Idiot 7383 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.655.3331 Waterloo & City 12517 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.391.4222 Wood & Vine 6280 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.334.3360

Poutine Mario from P’tit Soleil in Westwood


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The remodeled Spago in Beverly Hills


Spago Revisited

Thirty years old may seem young for a nip/tuck (even in L.A.), but the milestone recently prompted Spago to undergo a radical facelift. Upon blowing out his Michelin-recognized restaurant’s anniversary candles last summer, master chef Wolfgang Puck embarked on a complete overhaul of its menu and décor. The original Spago, which opened in West Hollywood in 1982 before relocating to Beverly Hills, generated acclaim and a culinary empire with then-breakthrough dishes such as gourmet pizza. Post-renovation, a new menu emphasizes Cal-Asian fusion dishes such as whole roasted Chinese duck with bao buns. Interior designer Waldo Fernandez’s sophisticated vision is wrought in warm surfaces, sleek lines and contemporary art, lending youthful vivacity to Spago’s time-honed excellence. 176 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.385.0880

Wood-burning oven in the kitchen of Bestia downtown

BELLY OF THE BESTIA Husband-and-wife chef team Ori Menashe and Genevieve Gergis, along with restaurateur Bill Chait, have opened multiregional Italian restaurant Bestia in the smokin’ hot downtown Arts District. Here, Menashe, the former executive chef of Angelini Osteria, serves up such “beast”-focused dishes as hand-rolled fusilli with braised goat and ricotta salata, grilled half hen with cannellini and borlotti beans and chickenliver crostini, and house-made salumi.

Pastry chef Gergis provides the sweet complement with Italian-inspired treats including her bittersweet chocolate budino with cacao crust, caramel, olive oil and sea salt. Designed by Greg Bleier of Studio Unlimited in collaboration with Gergis, the 4,100-square-foot space is housed within a mixed-use development project and features a mash-up of contemporary Italian design and raw industrial elements. 2121 E. 7th Pl., downtown, 213.514.5724


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Angeles Joie in West Hollywood


Joie de Vivre The contemporary brand Joie has been a staple in many a cool girl’s closet since rolling out its musthave signature cargo pants in the early aughts. Helmed by Serge Azria and headquartered in a downtown loft, Joie has mastered the California-casual look, from drapey knit tops and slinky silk blouses down to thong-sandalbared toes. A new Melrose Avenue outpost means savvy local women can find all of the brand’s collections in one location. With an interior dreamed up by Ryan Korban, whose design inspiration was a Parisian apartment, the shop carries the complete collection of ready-to-wear, shoes and accessories, including a new line of embossed, stamped and washed leather handbags as well as the newly launched fragrance, Folle de Joie, a boutique exclusive. Jewelry from Hortense and Dream Collective are bonuses. 8414 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.330.1255


Sweet! Hollywood at Hollywood & Highland Center

Did you dream of touring Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory as a kid? If so, a new sweets emporium at Hollywood & Highland Center, Sweet! Hollywood, promises to fulfill your childhood candy fantasy. The shop comprises a dozen candy boutiques, from Sticky, the Australian company that crafts custom hard candies before your eyes, to Chocolate Lab, where you design your own chocolate bar, to a lollipop land called Lollywood and even Yucky, devoted to disgusting candy. (You’ve been warned!) The centerpiece is the Wonka boutique, which carries every kind of Wonka candy, including new artisan chocolates. With 300 types of chocolate bars, 200 types of gummy candies, 250 kinds of lollipops, a Ferrari-powered gumball machine and tasting machines throughout the store, Sweet! is a 30,000-square-foot candy dream come true, no golden ticket required. 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.809.4380 16 WHERELA.COM

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Carmen Steffens Exclusive handcrafted shoes, handbags and accessories Voted 2012 Los Angeles Shoe Store of the Year

Paris Madrid Rio de Janeiro Hollywood Sao Paulo Buenos Aires Punta del Este Johannesburg Visit our new flagship store at the Hollywood & Highland Center, 6801 Hollywood Blvd #109, Hollywood, CA 90028 (323) 466-2459

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where now Los

Angeles What are some of the most elaborate cakes you’ve made? We made a life-size baby elephant, a life-size NASCAR car for Time Warner, a lifesize working R2D2 for George Lucas. We also made a winter wonderland Disney castle for an event at Disney World last week. And when we make a Disney castle, we make every little detail, including Dumbo on skates! You’ve made cakes for celebrities and royalty. Who has been your favorite famous client? I’d have to say either George Lucas or the owner of the Boston Bruins [Jeremy Jacobs]. Getting to make cakes for my heroes is awesome because I get to be super fan-boy while doing my job.

» Q+A He Takes THe cake

Cake artiste Duff Goldman holds all the aces: In addition to starring on the Food Network show Ace of Cakes and running blockbuster bakery Charm City Cakes in Baltimore, he now has two cake shops in L.A.—a natural location for these new endeavors, he says. “We were already making so many cakes [for customers] in L.A., and I really got sick of driving cakes across the country,” he jokes. In addition to Charm City Cakes West is the new concept Duff’s Cakemix, where customers can decorate their own confections. “Seeing how many people we touched with Ace of Cakes, and how much people loved to decorate cakes, Cakemix has been a Willy Wonka–type dream of mine for a long time,” he explains. Based in Baltimore, this part-time Angeleno has discovered many sweet spots in La-La Land. —Katie McCarthy

You spend your days surrounded by sweets. That’s dangerous. I used to eat a lot of cake; I have a crazy sweet tooth. Lately, though, I’ve lost about 47 pounds and I’m trying to lose about 50 more, so eating sweets is a luxury I can’t really indulge in too often. But, let’s be honest, my cakes are awesome and it’s pretty much impossible to not sneak a bite once in a while. When you’re not on a cake kick, where do you get dessert? Fonuts, for sure. I love everything they make. I’m a big fan of the desserts at Red Medicine. They are visionary, beautiful, but most importantly, delicious! But, in all honesty, my lemon poppy cupcakes keep me up at night. Any other favorite eats in L.A.? The calamari at Villa Blanca is awesome. The José Andrés at Ink. Sack is the best sandwich in town. My go-to right now is the Pink Asylum at Liquid Juice Bar. The sesame wasabi poke at Poke-Poke at Venice Beach is a good treat.

You’re also a musician. Where do you like to see shows? The Troubadour has some of the best shows I’ve seen here. It’s like the Ottobar of L.A. Maybe I need to start a new band out here. I’m in an Elvis tribute band called Danger Ace that plays a few times a year for charity functions. Hmm.... Any other favorites? I’m a fan of the L.A. Zoo. I like the giraffes and the golden lion tamarins. Here’s a weird one: I’ve been fascinated by the La Brea Tar Pits since I was, like, five years old, and I’ve been [there] at least three times this year. You know what else I love about L.A.? The graffiti. I was a graf writer when I was a kid and I’ve seen some beautiful stuff here, and stuff you only see in magazines, like [graffiti by Shepard] Fairey and Banksy. Yeah, L.A. pretty much kicks ass. DETAILS Charm City Cakes West 8302 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.642.7234 Duff’s Cakemix 8302 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.650.5555 Fonuts 8104 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.592.3075 Ink. Sack 8360 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.655.7225 Liquid Juice Bar 8180 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.300.8070 Los Angeles Zoo and Botanical Gardens 5333 Zoo Drive, Griffith Park, 323.644.4200 Page Museum at the La Brea Tar Pits 5801 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.934.7243 Poke-Poke 1827 Ocean Front Walk, Venice, 424.228.5132 Red Medicine 8400 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 323.651.5500 The Troubadour 9081 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.276.1158 Villa Blanca 9601 Brighton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.859.7600


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Explore more than 150 shops, restaurants and services from 6th to 17th streets in Santa Monica.

John KElly ChoColatEs 1111½ Montana ave, 310.899.0900

lonDon solE 1331 Montana ave, 310.255.0937

Visit this national award-winning chocolatier’s beautiful store, and be surrounded by decadent truffle fudge, walnut caramel clusters, chocolate-dipped fruit and other artisan chocolate delights. Choose from single bars, gift boxes, or custom assortments. All handmade in Hollywood, and offered in 17 flavors, many topped with exotic salts. Gluten free, kosher.

London Sole offers the world’s largest collection of ballet flats, ballerina pumps, classic driving loafers and other exquisite traditional flat footwear from designer Jane Winkworth. The Montana and San Francisco boutiques are hot spots for celebrities who have fallen in love with the simple, sophisticated and sometimes bold designs.

Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 12pm-5pm

Mon-Sat 10am-6:30pm; Sun 11am-6pm

Mon-Sat 10am-6pm

Step Shoes offers the finest European quality footwear with brands such as Thierry Rabotin, Aguatalia, Cordani, Cydwoq, Mephisto MBT, Isabella Fiore and many more. In addition to its selection of comfortable and classy shoes, Step Shoes has a variety of distinctive handbags and fun accessories to choose from. Step Shoes is where style and comfort come together in total harmony.

CaBoChon FinE JEWElRy 1426 Montana ave, 310.576.2455

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Cabochon Fine Jewelry has been offering personalized service and customized quality designs for over twenty years. In addition to fashion forward fine jewelry, diamond hoops and stackable bands, Cabochon specializes in micro pave set diamond engagement rings and wedding bands.

The Stacia Ecoknits collection is designed locally in Santa Monica by designer Stacy Johnson. The sustainable bamboo knits are friendly to the earth and feel great against your skin. The colorful knitwear collection includes cardigans, dresses, sweaters, scarves, and a new Home collection, all made in luxurious, washable bamboo. Visit the new beach bungalow inspired boutique and discover bamboo!

Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 12pm-5pm

Daily 11am-6pm

Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm

stEP shoEs 1004 Montana ave, 310.899.4409

Montana EyEs 709 Montana ave, 310.917.4474 Do you accessorize with eyewear? Or, are you in the market for that perfect new pair of prescription glasses? Montana Eyes has showcased high-end eyewear for twenty years. This special boutique has any style to suit your needs: from the hottest trends to custom-frames and vintage specs. Come see for yourself why Hollywood stars shop at Montana Eyes. 010-019_WhereNow_WLA.indd 19 MAVE_1212.indd 1

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Every decade or so, one particular food or cuisine seems to flood the L.A. dining scene, which is among the most diverse in the nation. Burgers and tacos will always be important here. Sushi has been the truly dominant food of the past decade, with sushi bars dominating the culinary landscape. Now, it appears the successor to sushi is pizza, an old favorite experiencing an incredible revival in L.A.


by Roger Grody

en Mario Batali of Iron Chef fame h and baker extraordinaire Nancy Silverton joined forces to open Pizzeria Mozza in 2006, pizza suddenly became cool again—so cool, in fact, that you could hardly score a table there at 3 in the afternoon. Mozza represented the beginnings of a pizza revolution in L.A., which has taken several years to fully develop. There was nothing special about Mozza, except incredibly good ingredients and masterful dough passing through a scorching wood-fired oven. The thin-crusted pies— blistered, slightly carbonized and occasionally irregularly shaped—were like nothing else in town at the time. Furthermore, items such as caramelized Brussels sprouts with prosciutto breadcrumbs, bone marrow al forno and chicken liver crostini that would make a Jewish grandmother weep all contribute to the ultimate pizzeria experience. The pies, such as those offering fennel sausage with panna and red onions, or wild mushrooms, fontina and Taleggio, remain among the very best in town. Approaching the mastery of Mozza is the pizza-making at Sotto. Young co-chef/owners Zach Pollack and Steve Samson may lack Iron

Chef emblems on their coats, but their unbridled passion for Italian cuisine translates into beautifully executed pizzas and rustic trattoria specialties. Superior ingredients elevate their traditional Margherita pie, but more interesting options include a pie with guanciale, ricotta and scallions, dusted with fennel pollen, or a marjoram-scented pizza layered with fingerling potatoes and mozzarella, topped with a runny egg. Grilled, nicely seared pork meatballs with pecorino are great for sharing, as are feather-light Sicilian fritters called panelle, which Pollack and Samson make with chickpea flour. Sotto also offers outstanding handcrafted pastas, including casarecce with braised lamb ragù and maitake mushrooms. Earning good press and a loyal following, thanks in large part to its dedication to tradition, is Pasadena’s Settebello Pizzeria Napoletana, part of a minichain founded by former USC quarterback Brad Otton. (Devoted Trojan fans will remember him.) The restaurant’s prized possession is a wood-burning oven imported from Naples, Italy, whose temperature reaches 1,000 degrees. Settebello is one of only about 60 pizzerias in the U.S. that are certified members of the Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana (VPN), an affiliation founded by Neapolitan pizza-makers to defend and preserve traditional techniques.


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âžł Tartufo (above) and vege pizzas from 800 Degrees Neapolitan Pizzeria in Westwood

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Following VPN specifications, Settebello uses San Marzano tomatoes and a specific type of flour imported from Naples, hand-shaping the dough and baking it directly on the oven’s brick surface. The results, whether attributed to VPN guidelines or just good ingredients and technique, are excellent. Melrose Avenue’s Osteria la Buca, a great all-purpose trattoria, has long excelled with pizza, including an exceptional version topped with Taleggio, mushrooms, caramelized onions and thyme. When chef Loredana Cecchinato (“Mamma”) and son Filippo Cortivo defected from Osteria la Buca in 2009, they set up shop down the street in a homey, welcoming space they call Osteria Mamma, filled with vintage family photos from Padua (near Venice). After a terrific beef carpaccio or addictive crostini topped with velvety burrata, prosciutto and shavings of aromatic black truffles, regulars gravitate to pastas or pizzas named after family members, made exclusively with organic Italian ingredients. The Kristian is topped with pear, Gorgonzola, mozzarella and onions, while the Filippo wins over admirers with mozzarella, Gorgonzola, bacon and egg. Old-school pizza joints—with pies that may not be authentically Italian, but satisfying nonetheless—are everywhere in L.A., with too many to even mention. One with the greatest longevity is Casa Bianca Pizza Pie, a nostalgic Eagle Rock institution that also delivers red-sauced pastas to booths with checkered vinyl tablecloths. The pizzas are characterized by toppings that nearly bleed off the edges, eliminating the puffy, chewy borders of crust some people enjoy. Back around 1980, Casa Bianca became an occasional hangout for

Occidental College student “Barry” Obama, and the now-POTUS was reportedly fond of the Hawaiian pizza, a reminder of his home state. The Los Feliz–Silver Lake area is rich in pizza parlors, from old-fashioned New York joints to contemporary concepts. One of the best is Mother Dough, a narrow storefront with character, where owner Bez Compani turns out impressive pies fired just 60 to 90 seconds over almond and oak wood in an oven imported from Naples. Compani’s dough, made in-house, of course, has a pleasantly chewy quality. One option features fettuccinelike ribbons of zucchini strewn atop a pie with a blend of mozzarella and Spanish Manchego, while another exhibits generous shavings of black truffles. Nearby Tomato Pie Pizza Joint, a venture of transplanted New Yorker Garrett Policastro, is regarded as the place to go in L.A. for authentic New York–style pies, as well as stromboni, calzones and subs. Gjelina, a casual Venice bistro specializing in an eclectic repertoire of small plates, also serves some notable pies. Mixed mushroom, rosemary and garlic oil, or four onions, goat cheese, Asagio, Parmesan, thyme and black pepper, are among a selection of thin-crusted pies that are consistently satisfying. A pizza, charcuterie plate and modestly priced bottle of Côtes du Roussillon will make you quite popular at one of Gjelina’s communal tables, where diners often happily share plates. An indication of pizza’s newfound dominance is the appearance of well-capitalized pizza bars around town. Among them is Soleto Trattoria & Pizza Bar, from the folks at Innovative Dining Group (Sushi Roku, BOA Steakhouse, Katana), whose instinct for the consump-

Opposite, clockwise from top left: Chef Jeff Mahin at Stella Rossa Pizza Bar in Santa Monica; Milo & Olive in Santa Monica; prosciutto pizza from Stella Rossa

Above, from left: Raw dough at 800 Degrees; seasonal pizza toppings listed at Stella Rossa


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SHOPS Blaze Pizza 667 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.440.7358 Casa Bianca Pizza Pie 1650 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock, 323.256.9617 800 Degrees Neapolitan Pizza 10889 Lindbrook Drive, Westwood, 424.239.5010

Milo & Olive 2723 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.453.6776 Mother Dough 4648 Hollywood Blvd., Los Feliz, 323.644.2885 Olio Pizzeria & Café 8075 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.930.9490 Osteria la Buca 5210 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.462.1900 Osteria Mamma 5730 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.284.7060 Pizzeria Mozza 641 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.297.0101 Settebello Pizzeria Napoletana 625 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.765.9550 Soleto Trattoria & Pizza Bar 801 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.622.3255 Sotto 9575 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.277.0210 Stella Rossa Pizza Bar 2000 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.396.9250 Terroni 810 S. Spring St., downtown,; 7605 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.954.0300 Tomato Pie Pizza Joint 2457 Hyperion Ave., Silver Lake, 323.661.6474; 7751 1/2 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.653.9993

tion habits of young affluent Angelenos is rarely off the mark. The company’s first foray into downtown, Soleto occupies the L.A. Live–convenient space formerly housing Zucca Ristorante. A Carrara marbleclad, horseshoe-shaped pizza bar wraps around a gas-assisted oven framed in custom red tile. From that 1,000-degree oven emerge thin-crusted pizzas ranging from traditional Margherita to contemporary potato and bacon with fontina, garlic cream and scallions. Also downtown is a sumptuous new branch of Terroni, the popular Beverly Boulevard trattoria/ pizzeria, a chain with Canadian roots. It occupies a 6,000-square-foot space in the up-and-coming Fashion District, inside a splendidly preserved building constructed as a bank in 1924. Terroni is known for a diverse selection of 30-plus thin-crusted pizzas, presented whole for customers to cut as they desire. Those who favor mom-and-pop pizzerias may be inclined to pass on Santa Monica’s Stella Rossa Pizza Bar, a corporate concept from mega-restaurant group Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises. That needn’t be a deal-breaker, however, as the Chicago-based company boasts two of the Windy City’s most acclaimed restaurants, Tru and Everest, in its portfolio. At Stella Rossa, a lively crowd packs the place for thin-crusted CalNeapolitan pizzas, such as a tomato-less pie feathered with shaved mushrooms, melted onions, black truffles, rosemary and Gruyère. Nearby, the prolific husband-and-wife team of Josh Loeb and Zoe Nathan (Rustic Canyon Wine Bar and Seasonal Kitchen, Huckleberry Bakery & Cafe) has opened Milo & Olive. (Milo is the name of their son.) Nathan is a pastry chef by training—her breads and confections are on display here—and crafts the dough for pizzas whose toppings include house-made pork belly sausage with braised greens, tomato and mozzarella, or roasted potato with rosemary cream and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Also emerging from the wood-fired oven is the “garlic knot,” a pizza dough

purse filled with roasted garlic and served in a pool of sizzling butter. Pizzas, which can cook in a couple of minutes in a hot oven, are ideally suited to fast food, but such operations don’t need to sacrifice quality. The assembly-line format used at Subway for sub sandwiches and at Chipotle for burritos has been adapted to pizzamaking. First out of the block was Westwood’s 800 Degrees Neapolitan Pizza, a venture of restaurant whiz kid Adam Fleischman (Umami Burger), where diners customize their own pies with items including imported pine nuts, caramelized roasted garlic and Gorgonzola. For less than a year 800 Degrees was unchallenged, until some big corporate money poured in to replicate the concept. Elise and Rick Wetzel (whose Wetzel’s Pretzels is a favorite of mall rats) and an eclectic group of prominent investors are now awarding franchises in a new chain, Blaze Pizza, that combines artisanal sensibilities with the efficiency of an assembly line. The scratch-made pies feature a light, crisp crust developed by consulting chef Bradford Kent, who has earned accolades for his wood-fired pizzas at L.A.’s Olio Pizzeria & Café. At Blaze, you can opt for pre-designed pizzas (e.g. the “Art Lover,” with artichokes, mozzarella, ricotta, chopped garlic and marinara), but it’s more fun to create your own masterpiece from various cheeses (even a vegan faux cheese), meats and vegetables. The ingredients aren't as interesting as at 800 Degrees, but these pizzas are surprisingly good for quick-service fare. And the vibe at the first L.A.-area location, in Pasadena’s Playhouse District, is cheerful and inviting. Pizza has always been a big part of the L.A. dining scene, whether it was Sinatra hanging out at Casa d’Amore in Hollywood—reputedly the city’s first pizzeria when it opened in 1939—or a youthful Wolfgang Puck pulling his first California pizza out of the oven at Spago in 1982. But now, it’s easier than ever to find a truly great pie.


Gjelina 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1429

Left: Tallegio pizza with hen of the woods mushrooms from Osteria la Buca on Melrose; diners at Sotto in West L.A.


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Red carpets, celebrity guest lists, mile-long lines—L.A. nightlife has its fair share of spectacles. But lately, flashy clubs on high-traffic boulevards have given way to sophisticated bars in clandestine locales known by a select few. Allow us to let you in on L.A. nightlife's little secrets.


Business in front, party in back. No, we're not talking about your cousin's mullet. We mean the Culver City speakeasy Blind Barber, the recently opened import from New York City's East Village. Behind a glass door simply marked "barber shop," hipsters get haircuts and old-fashioned hot-towel shaves while sipping complimentary cocktails. Come 6 pm, those in the know proceed through a door hidden behind a towel closet and into a chic

parlor. Here, mixologists at a patinated-brass bar serve handcrafted cocktails—five house options and five seasonal—created with local produce. Hungry patrons can select from a menu of grilled-cheese sandwiches. 10797 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.841.6679

➻BAR THIRTEEN From its roost in the Pershing Square Building, Perch is the downtown rooftop bar du jour with an after-hours French-bistro vibe (steak frites and kir royals,

Opposite: Old Fashioned at the Varnish downtown. This page: drink cart at Sayers Club in Hollywood


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Clockwise from left: Beacher's Madhouse in Hollywood; £10 in Beverly Hills; Seventy7 in Culver City


If the Hollywood club scene leaves you longing for a night more civilized—say, one spent swirling and savoring a fine scotch with Don Draper-esque panache— then ring £10 (that's "10 pound") at the Montage Beverly Hills. This reservationonly spot nestled above the Scott Conanthelmed Scarpetta serves Macallan whiskeys and whiskey cocktails with a perfectionist touch: cooled with large spherical ice chunks made of water imported from the Scottish Highlands, and presented in Lalique crystal glasses. Do a tasting or indulge in the Macallan 64, a 64-year-old aged singlemalt whiskey and the brand's finest. 225 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.860.5808

➻BASEMENT TAVERN If the Victorian looks as if it was plucked from a residential neighborhood and dropped onto Santa Monica's Main Street, that's because it was.

The historic former private home's patio is a chic, romantic spot for enjoying cocktails amid strings of twinkling lights. Walk around back to a discreet door and amble down two staircases and you find its underground speakeasy, Basement Tavern. Enjoy live music from local bands while nursing a libation—Delia's Elixir is named for the Victorian's ghost, the matriarch of the family who lived in the mansion in the 1890s. Pull your pals into the game room for a little friendly competition; there are board games as well as a Nintendo Wii system. 2640 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.396.2469


Where hot dogs and fistpumping collide, Sayers Club can be found only by wandering inside Hollywood's Papaya King, the New York-based fast-food joint offering franks and tropical juices. The trendy SBE Entertainment Group operates both venues, but while anyone can indulge in one of Papaya King's chili-smothered franks, it takes considerably more finesse to make it through the door of exclusive Sayers Club, whose "secret" entrance is to the left of the counter. The sexy club features tufted leather couches, rough-hewn brick walls and major attitude. Handcrafted cocktails designed by mixologist Ryan Magarian tempt revelers, and DJs and live-music acts keep the party going. 1645 Wilcox Ave., Hollywood, 323.871.8233

➻THE WRITERS ROOM If the walls of the Writers Room could talk, oh, the tales they'd tell. Writers such as F. Scott Fitzgerald, Ernest Hemingway and William Faulkner and Hollywood power players frequented the bar formerly in this space, the "back room" of Musso & Frank restaurant. The nightspot has been restored courtesy of nightlife visionary Nur Khan and investors including actors Jason Segal and Jack Huston. A décor highlight is a 1928 elevator cage, which functions as VIP booth with curtains and a daybed. Celebrated local mixologist Daniel Nelson commands a cocktail menu inspired by the ethnic neighborhoods of Los Angeles. 6685 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.491.4148 ➻SEVENTY7 A bar hidden behind ... another bar? Seventy7 in Culver City has the ultimate cover. An approachable neighborhood joint, Rocco's Tavern is a reliable choice for a cold pint and a greasy slice, but a sleeker crowd heads to Seventy7 lounge, accessible through an alley adjacent to Rocco's and marked by a sign that reads simply "cocktails." Utter the password (consult Seventy7's Twitter feed; it changes nightly) to enter the sleek bar and lounge. Order a sip from the absinthe fountain or a signature cocktail such as the Plaid Bikini with whiskey, elderflower syrup, Yellow Chartreuse, grapefruit juice and bitters. 3843 Main St., Culver City, 310.559.7707

previous spread, left: Trujillo Paumier

anyone?) and impressive views of Bunker Hill's skyscrapers and Pershing Square. Venture beneath Perch to its newer, lesserknown counterpart, Bar Thirteen, still so under wraps that even the Perch website contains no word of its existence. When you've had enough of the alfresco scene, head downstairs to this dark, intimate den for live entertainment (jazz, burlesque and stand-up comedy) and artisan cocktails. 448 S. Hill St., downtown, 213.802.1770


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From top: oldschool elegance at Basement Tavern in Santa Monica; the Writers Room in Hollywood


John Terzian at l.a.'s trendier nightspots, the velvet ropes are so impenetrable that they're practically ironclad. john terzian, owner and operator of the taste-making H.Wood.Group responsible for nightspots such as Bootsy Bellows in West Hollywood and santa monica's shorebar, offers tips for getting past the strictest gatekeepers. What's a surefire way to get in the door at a hot lounge or club? Buy a table. i think you make a reservation for bottle service.

joHN terZiaN: dale BermaN

I was afraid you might say that. Any other tips? the people [who get in the door] are friends of friends, or know someone. and if they don't, they usually dress the part. they dress up for a night out. they don't look like they're going to a day at the beach. What's the best way to get a doorman sweet on you? When people get in that don't have a connection to the place, they say, "i'm in from tennessee visiting, heard all about it, would love to get in." that person has a better

shot.... say, "Hi, i'm so-and-so, is there anything you could do for us?" Words to avoid? "do you have any idea who i am?" or "do you have any idea who i work for?"—two lines that are an automatic "no." I get the sense that you've seen a lot of tantrums. i had a person screaming he was best friends with john terzian, and i said, "Why don't you call him on the phone?" and he said, “i will!” Do women have an easier time getting through doors than men? i think women always have a better shot of getting in. [laughs.] they tend to run the world.

➻THE VARNISH Cole's downtown is one of l.a.'s oldest restaurants, and more than 100 years after it started slinging french dip sandwiches, the 213 Nightlife group enlivened it with a much-needed, prohibition-era-glam makeover. its loft-dwelling hipster clientele is content to sit at a front bar sipping the classic cocktails on offer, but the most coveted seats are through a discreet door at the back of the restaurant that leads to the varnish. a leader of l.a.'s recent cocktail renaissance, the varnish helped bring drinks such as the old fashioned back in style. fittingly, an old-school vibe permeates the décor down to the smallest detail. (Yes, your suspendered bartender is taking calls on an antique rotary telephone.) 118 e. 6th st., downtown, 213.622.9999 ➻BEACHER'S MADHOUSE

david arquette is onstage, and oompa loompas are flying overhead. No, you haven't been drinking too much. (Well, maybe you have.) You're just at Beacher's madhouse, the Hollywood roosevelt Hotel's ultimate den of debauchery. Nightlife mogul jeff Beacher's legendary venue has made a permanent

home in Hollywood with investors including arquette, an occasional emcee. if you make it past the doorman, you'll walk through a door disguised as a bookcase and into a vaudeville-theaterlike space that hosts a range of oddball entertainment. spring for bottle service and a fully costumed oompa loompa whizzes through the air on wires and drops your beverage at your table. 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.785.3036

➻THE ROGER ROOM take into account the gaggles of well-dressed denizens going in and out the door at 370 North la Cienega Blvd., and the neon signage indicating a psychic parlor suddenly looks ... suspicious. even those in the know may walk past the roger room a few times before realizing the storefront is a fake. With its stained-glass windows, cozy booths and retro wall murals, the cocktail bar looks like the kind of place where flappers would have gotten a little wild back in the day. the roger room has style to spare, but nightcrawlers come for the drinks, concocted by preeminent l.a. mixologist damian Windsor. 370 N. la Cienega Blvd., l.a., 310.854.1300 WHERE LOS ANGELES 29

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La Descarga in Hollywood

➻LA DESCARGA First, you have to find La Descarga's storefront—next door to a taco stand, on a block on the edge of Hollywood that looks nothing like a destination. Step inside, march up the staircase, and walk into ... an office. Then, with a knowing smile, a babely hostess throws open a pair of wardrobe doors to reveal the entrance for this otherworldly, Cuban-styled rum bar. Bartenders busy themselves muddling lime and sugar for mojitos while patrons, who mind the upscale dress code, look on. A jazz band and a dancer, who performs hourly, entertain on the walkway above; an open-air cigar lounge in back provides another hangout space. 1159 Western Ave., Hollywood, 323.466.1324 MARMONT It's so hush-hush, no one even knows what it's called! The former private dining room at the Chateau Marmont in West Hollywood was recently converted to a supertiny, superexclusive and unnamed cocktail destination hidden in a corner of the hotel's restaurant. (Hotel guests may be favored at the door; reservations are suggested.) With just four tables and swanky sips such as the Professor (gin, blood orange and fig bitters) and La Fume de Jalisco (mezcal, Aperol, habanero chili-infused agave and lime), the bar is bound to attract the Hollywood power players who have flocked to the hotel since it opened in 1927. Columbia Pictures founder Harry Cohn once quipped, "If you must get into trouble, do it at the Chateau Marmont." We couldn't agree more. 8221 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.656.1010

Daniel Djang /



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where abouts The City of Angels is the most vibrant city in the Western Hemisphere and one of its most diverse. The area generally referred to as L.A. is actually made up of numerous cities and neighborhoods. Here’s our guide to the most visited among them.


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SHOPPING AT ITS FINEST Find the latest styles and hottest trends at your favorite shops. Enjoy one of 10 restaurants or dine al fresco at the Dining Terrace with 16 express eateries. Pick up a VIP Visitor Card filled with special offers for our out-of town guests at the Westfield Concierge.


10250 Santa Monica Blvd. Los Angeles, CA 90067 310.277.3898

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Beverly Hills

Beverly Hills is a luxury lover’s mecca: designer shopping, fine dining, mansions. Century City, Westwood and Culver City are pockets with their own draws.

Few neighborhoods match Beverly Hills’ grip on the popular imagination, thanks to a history studded with more celebrity and excess than an Aaron Spelling TV series. Today, luxury juggernauts lure well-heeled shoppers to Rodeo Drive, while the mansions of famous locals past and present draw busloads of lookyloos. Nearby cities and neighborhoods stake their own claims to L.A.’s affections, including skyscraper-speckled Century City, known for business and high-end shopping; Westwood, home to UCLA; and Culver City, an emerging dining and cultural destination steeped in entertainment-industry history.


The launch of Beverly Hills’ glamorous reputation dates to the early 20th century, when the then-new Beverly Hills Hotel ushered in a frenzy of movie-star mansion-building in the hills north of Sunset Boulevard. Today, the population of 35,000 is more economically diverse than Tinseltown might suggest. Nonetheless, the triumvirate of Beverly Hills, Holmby Hills and Bel-Air still attracts its share of famous residents, including the Stefani-Rossdale and Beckham families. Hop on the Beverly Hills Trolley Tour or book ahead with Starline Tours to see notable homes in the ‘hood, along with other local landmarks packed into the city’s nearly six square miles. Among the more storied and oft-filmed estates nestled in the hills is the 19th-century English Revival-style Greystone Mansion & Park, whose graceful cityowned grounds are open for strolling.


From Greystone, head west on Sunset Boulevard, then hang on to your wallet as you turn south onto Rodeo Drive. After passing through a tony residential neighborhood, you enter the shopping district known as the Golden Triangle, bounded by Santa Monica and Wilshire


From left: Rush Street bar and Kirk Douglas Theatre, both in Culver City; Two Rodeo in Beverly Hills


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new in town

Chanel on Rodeo Drive

Kyle by Alene Too

Stylish women’s clothing and accessories boutique launched by Kyle Richards, a star of Bravo’s The Real Housewives of Beverly Hills. 9647 Brighton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.278.6200


Italian sports outerwear-maker offers men’s and women’s collections, Giambattista Valli’s Moncler Gamme Rouge, Thom Brown’s Moncler Gamme Bleu, Moncler S and Moncler Grenoble. 328 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 424.354.4562

The Phoenix

Beer-focused, country-hip cocktail bar from Ryan Sweeney, Brandon Bradford and Alan Aivazian of the Surly Goat. 14 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.289.5925


Wolfgang Puck flagship reopens with a new look and a new menu, reinventing the local power spot. 176 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.385.0880


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boulevards and Cañon Drive. David Yurman and Tom Ford each recently opened flagships on Rodeo, reminding retailers that 90210 is still the most prestigious ZIP code in the States. Ascend the Italian-esque side street to Tiffany & Co., perched atop Two Rodeo. Pause for the quintessential Beverly Hills snapshot before continuing on to the Beverly Wilshire Hotel (of Pretty Woman fame) at the south end of Rodeo. Continuing west, pass Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Barneys New York, the reigning luxury retail titans along this stretch of Wilshire. At Santa Monica Boulevard, you hit the Beverly Hilton Hotel, which rolls out 30,000 square feet of red carpet annually to host the Golden Globe Awards.


Beverly Hills isn’t all shopping sprees and gated estates: Talent agencies William Morris, Endeavor and United Talent Agency are just three of the entertainment business powerhouses based here. Witness fierce negotiations and wooing over Cobb salads at Scarpetta at the Montage Beverly Hills and newly revamped Spago across the street. The city’s cultural treasure-troves include the Paley Center for Media and the Samuel Goldwyn Theater at the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, both of which hold screenings. Promising even more cultural programming is the forthcoming Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts, which will transform the historic Beverly Hills Post Office into an entertainment destination.


Heading west from Beverly Hills on Santa Monica Boulevard, you enter the 0.3-squaremile modern acropolis of Century City. International Creative Management and Creative Artists Association are located here, as is a

Fox Studio lot and countless legal, financial, entertainment and hospitality firms. But those outside the biz won’t be excluded. Just past Avenue of the Stars, you hit the upscale Westfield Century City shopping center, with luxury boutiques and dining venues to rival those of Beverly Hills. Nearby on Constellation Boulevard, Top Chef judge Tom Colicchio draws epicures to his acclaimed restaurant Craft and lower-priced Craftbar. Steps away, The Annenberg Space for Photography displays cutting-edge exhibits of digital and print photography.


A few miles northeast of Century City is the University of California, Los Angeles, one of the top public universities in the country. Visitors are welcome at several university attractions, including the Fowler Museum of Cultural History and the outdoor Franklin D. Murphy Sculpture Garden in the north campus, the planetarium on the south campus and the seven-acre Mildred E. Mathias Botanical Gardens (100 Stein Plaza Driveway). The Hammer Museum is nearby and houses works by Degas and Rembrandt as well as contemporary works and installations. Paid parking is available in UCLA lots and structures throughout the 419-acre campus.


Just south of the campus, the pedestrianfriendly Westwood Village features independent shops and cafes among its art deco and Mediterranean Revival buildings, as well as two landmark movie theaters at the intersection of Broxton and Weyburn avenues: the 1936 marquee-wrapped Bruin Theater, and the Village Theater across the street. Built circa 1931, the Village Theater is a favorite for movie premieres and thus prime starspotting territory. Another don’t-miss venue is the award-winning Geffen Playhouse,

located on LeConte Avenue in one of the oldest buildings in Westwood.


Covering five square miles about four miles southeast of Westwood, Culver City has benefited from a polish in the past few years, and now boasts a thriving downtown. The Kirk Douglas Theatre and the Ivy Substation, home to the Actors’ Gang, bookend the downtown area and stage excellent live productions throughout the year. Traveling east on Washington Boulevard, don’t miss the sprawling Helms Bakery complex, which contains dozens of high-end furniture showrooms. Moving along Washington, the scene-y Arts District has more than 30 art galleries and exhibition spaces clustered along Washington and La Cienega boulevards. At the intersection of Washington and National boulevards is one end of the anticipated new Expo Line, a Metro light rail that traverses from Culver City to Exposition Park and the University of Southern California to the heart of downtown. Hollywood gets all the attention, but it’s Culver City that claims the official motto “The Heart of Screenland.” In 1915, Ince/ Triangle Studios, today Sony Pictures Studios, opened at 10202 W. Washington Blvd. Classics including The Wizard of Oz would eventually be filmed on the lots of the pioneering movie studio. The stately Thomas H. Ince Studio opened in 1918. Today, Culver City’s screen culture is still going strong, with the TV series Cougar Town among the productions filming at Culver Studios, and the Spider-Man franchise among the hits produced on the historic lots at Sony. Fully experience Culver City’s screen heritage by taking a studio tour at Sony. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see pages 108–109.

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JEAN THERAPY Who says precision tailoring and customized details lie solely within the purview of bespoke-suit-makers? This is L.A., after all, where donning perfectly fitted, high-end denim practically constitutes power dressing. Witness the Raw Tailored Atelier, an inhouse denim customization service available to men and women at the G-Star Raw store on Rodeo Drive. Here, your classic 3301 five-pocket jeans, made of specially woven Red Listing raw denim, can be expertly tailored to your preferred width and length, detailed with the buttons, rivets and back label of your choice, then hand-finished to your specifications. Eat your heart out, Savile Row. 413 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.275.5098,


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8 0 0. 479. 59 9 6 | www.BH Rent AC a m

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Santa Monica

From left: Parker Mesa Overlook in Pacific Palisades; the Venice canals; Pacific Park at Santa Monica Pier

pubs such as Ye Olde King’s Head that hint at the city’s large population of British expats. Anchoring the promenade at Broadway is Santa Monica Place, a pristine open-air shopping center with Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, 80 boutiques and a top-level Dining Deck with a food court, upscale restaurants and a gourmet marketplace. East on Broadway is the legendary Fred Segal, an emporium of high-end shops on each side of 5th Street. Santa Monica Pier, built in 1909, is at the end of Colorado Avenue and features Pacific Park, a miniamusement park with food stands and rides, including a solar-powered, LED-lit Ferris wheel.


Northeast of Third Street Promenade, the stretch of tree-lined Montana Avenue between 6th and 17th streets is busy, but still pleasant. Its boutiques, including Anat B., Planet Blue and Roseark, are of a more independent variety than those lining the promenade. Father’s Office,

this page and opposite: ian white

In the 1800s, a real estate agent called Santa Monica “the Santa Monica has Zenith City by the Sunset Sea.” The 21st-century version of the approachable vibe of a beach town Santa Monica fulfills its early promise with a bustling downtown and beach that draw millions of visitors per year. By the shore with the benefits are athletic activities and the West Coast’s most famous pier; of a major city— on dry land are shops that suit a variety of tastes and hundreds nightlife, dining, of dining options. Pacific Coast Highway connects SaMo with entertainment and destinations such as Malibu and Topanga. shopping galore. Malibu, Venice tHIRD STREET + THE PIER Third Street Promenade, three pedestrian-only blocks on 3rd Street between Broadway and and Brentwood Wilshire Boulevard, is perpetually teeming with people. Visitors can hit dozens of boutiques, watch movies at three cinemas or gawk at the myriad street artists. are appealing If they don’t refuel at the eateries along 3rd, visitors can venture to the surrounding blocks options nearby. to Blue Plate Oysterette or Sugarfish, and imbibe at the Hotel Shangri-La’s rooftop bar or


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Robert Irwin’s Central Garden at the Getty Center in Brentwood

new in town Blue Plate Taco

Fresh Mexican fare from the people behind Blue Plate and Blue Plate Oysterette. Shore Hotel, 1515 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.2985

The Bungalow

Brent Bolthouse’s lounge at the Fairmont Miramar Hotel & Bungalows features lush gardens and ocean views.101 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.899.8530

Burning Torch

Flagship boutique for this luxury lifestyle brand that promotes an upcycle philosophy. 1627 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.399.1920

Madison T

Boutique for teens and tweens offers inventory already adored by fashion-forward grown-ups, including Alice + Olivia and Splendid. 1017 Swarthmore Ave., Pacific Palisades, 310.454.5087


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Visitors can take in plays at Main Street’s Edgemar Center for the Arts, housed in an angular concrete structure designed by Frank Gehry. An even wider variety of entertainment is at the Broad Stage, Santa Monica College’s first-rate, 499-seat performing arts center that hosts pop and classical music concerts, film, dance and theater. As L.A. has emerged as a fine-arts capital, the campuslike Bergamot Station (2525 Michigan Ave.) has become an important destination. It’s home to 30 galleries, the Santa Monica Museum of Art and a cafe.


Twenty miles north of Santa Monica on Pacific Coast Highway is Malibu. Stars have made their homes here since the 1920s when May Rindge, the eccentric wife of an heir who once owned all of Malibu, began inviting celebs to live in Malibu Colony to pay the legal bills she had racked up from fighting developers. Much of Malibu’s best destinations are visible from PCH, such as the many restaurants with ocean views, from the casual (Malibu Seafood) to the upscale (Nobu Malibu).

Adjacent to the Malibu Lagoon and Bird Sanctuary, the Adamson House is filled with historic tile. The celebrity-frequented Malibu Country Mart serves as the area’s town square. Together with adjacent Malibu Village and Malibu Lumber Yard shopping centers, there are enough trendy shops and restaurants to while away an afternoon. Inland, nearing Calabasas, are many wineries such as Malibu Family Wines and Sip Malibu, which offer tastings. Malibu Discovery Tours hosts tours of the region.


In the counterculture 1960s, hippies and musicians such as Neil Young hid out in idyllic Topanga, accessed by long, winding Topanga Canyon Boulevard from PCH. Removed from urban activity, it retains its bohemian vibe and independently owned businesses. Hiking trails allow visitors to bask in Topanga’s woodsy beauty. Dining is best by the burbling creek at restaurants such as Abuelitas and Inn of the Seventh Ray. Pine Tree Circle has a lovely bistro and a few boutiques and galleries. There’s more than initially meets the eye in seemingly sleepy, family-friendly Pacific Palisades, south of Topanga on PCH and accessed from Temescal Canyon Road. Hikers love the shady trails in Temescal Gateway Park. Cafes such as Maison Giraud and upscale mom-and-pop shops such as Elyse Walker and Madison can be found between Via de la Paz and Monument Street near Sunset Boulevard. One relatively unknown gem is the Self-Realization Fellowship Lake Shrine on Sunset, a breathtaking oasis on 10 acres with a lush garden and koi- and swan-filled lake. Also, the resplendent Getty Villa, often mistakenly identified as being in Malibu, is in Pacific Palisades. Styled as a Julius Caesarera villa, it’s filled with Greco-Roman antiquities. Advance timed tickets are required.


Abbot Kinney famously won the land that would become Venice in a coin toss. He sought to develop it as an American version of the Italian city; the canals are still there, today lined with sleek modern homes and milliondollar bungalows. His namesake Abbot Kinney Boulevard is Venice’s coolest section, where The Tasting Kitchen, Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea and boutiques such as Steven Alan, Linus Bikes, Satine and Jack Spade are the main attractions. Looky-loos love to stroll Ocean Front Walk to ogle the street vendors and performers, or bodybuilders at Muscle Beach.


Reese Witherspoon, Ben Affleck and Jennifer Garner are some of the celebrities who live in this affluent enclave northeast of Santa Monica. San Vicente Boulevard functions as the neighborhood’s main street, with copious independent shops, bakeries, cafes and restaurants between Bundy Drive and where San Vicente becomes Federal Avenue. The petite Brentwood Country Mart, a unique open-air shopping center built in 1948, maintains a retro farmhouse charm but keeps retail offerings contemporary and upscale. The area’s biggest draw is the Getty Center, the hilltop museum that houses J. Paul Getty’s spectacular art collection.


Marina del Rey’s main attraction is the marina, the largest manmade small-craft harbor in the world. Restaurants in the fisherman’s wharf are positioned to take advantage of the views. You can rent kayaks from UCLA Marina Aquatic Center (14001 Fiji Way), or shop and dine at Waterside at the Marina, located at Lincoln Boulevard and Fiji Way. For bold items, see listings in the where guide.­­ For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 108.

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USEFUL AND BEAUTIFUL The folks at General Store in Venice may have had William Morris’ statement—“Have nothing in your houses that you do not know to be useful or believe to be beautiful”—in mind while stocking their shelves, because here, most items fulfill both categories at once. You’ll find a little bit of everything at this outpost of the beloved San Francisco boutique, from vintage clothes to books to Luke Bartels cutting boards to Doug Johnston rope baskets to Emmy’s Pickles to Lookout & Wonderland indigo textiles. The feel is simple, modern and organic, with a focus on handmade and locally made items. So make that practical, attractive and civic-minded to boot. 1801 Lincoln Blvd., Venice 310.751.6393,

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W La Cienega BLvd La Cienega BLvd La Cienega BLvd La Cienega BLvd La Cienega BLvd La Cienega BLvd

known for its stellar burger, Locanda Portofino and R+D Kitchen are tops for dining; dessert lovers might venture to Sweet Lady Jane for its famous cakes, adored by celebs. Just minutes south of downtown Santa Monica, Main Street is a quieter destination that still retains Santa Monica’s beachyupscale vibe. The long stretch between Pico Boulevard and Rose Avenue contains a number of galleries, restaurants, British pubs and boutiques (mostly femme-friendly) such as Mindfulnest, Goga and Hip’tique. The California Heritage Museum is in a transplanted Victorian-era home, as is the Victorian, adjacent to the museum, which features a cool downstairs speak-easy, Basement Tavern.



ince 1934, the Original Farmers Market has stood at the crossroads of Los Angeles history and culture. Today, it remains one of the last of the Hollywood legends, attracting people from all over the world to enjoy its eclectic mix of restaurants, grocers, shops and the best people watching the city has to offer. In a world ruled by change, the Original Farmers Market stands as an enduring landmark, steadfast at the junction of then and now, on the corner of Third and Fairfax.

Market events and activities throughout the year. Visit for calendars and updates.





6333 W. THIRD ST., LOS ANGELES, CA 90036 • 323.933.9211 OR 866.993.9211 MONDAY–FRIDAY 9AM–9PM • SATURDAY 9AM–8PM • SUNDAY 10AM–7PM 042-045_WHolly_WLA.indd 45

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West Hollywood

Trends in fashion, design and food often begin in L.A., and many of those innovations can be traced to the pioneering community of West Hollywood.

For a municipality measuring less than two square miles and with fewer than 35,000 residents, West Hollywood wields enormous influence over the L.A. lifestyle. With a disproportionate number of world-class art galleries, fashion boutiques, restaurants, nightclubs and theaters, it’s a frequent destination for locals and tourists alike. The city, often referred to as WeHo, is home to a large and influential gay community, protective of the city’s cultural development and quality of life. West Hollywood and the adjacent Mid-City West area celebrate diversity, as hipsters live in harmony with senior citizens and immigrants.

Sunset Strip

After dark, this iconic stretch of Sunset Boulevard between Doheny Drive and Crescent Heights Avenue becomes the hottest stretch of asphalt in L.A. County. The club scene rocks here with many legendary establishments. The Roxy, Whisky a Go-Go and Rainbow Bar have a long history of hosting performances from rock ‘n’ roll’s finest. Other Sunset Strip nightclubs include the Viper Room and the Key Club. The Comedy Store continues to showcase the leading names in standup as well as emerging stars. During the day, boutiques such as Live! on Sunset and beloved Book Soup draw traffic. Hotels are an integral part of the Sunset Strip scene. Chateau Marmont, a glorious and notorious celebrity hangout throughout the decades, remains a discreet local getaway. Skybar, at the style-conscious Mondrian, retains its aura of exclusivity. At the Sunset Tower Hotel, Bugsy Siegel’s former suite has been converted into the Tower Bar.


Sunset Plaza, between La Cienega and San Vicente Boulevards on Sunset Boulevard, is a collection of tony shops and bistros with an international flavor and free parking, a novelty

the grove, christopher ian smith; mel’s drive-in, ian White. opposite: monica nouwens

From left: The Grove; Farmers Market; Mel’s Drive-In on the Sunset Strip


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The Broad Contemporary Art Museum at Los Angeles County Museum of Art

new in town A+R

Beloved Abbot Kinney design emporium opens another outpost with a selection of products from around the world. 171 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.692.0086


the Kardashian sisters relocate their womenswear boutique to trendy Melrose Avenue. 8420 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.782.6822

Dylan’s Candy Bar

dylan Lauren, daughter of famed fashion designer ralph Lauren, expands candy store empire with a location at the original Farmers Market. 6333 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.930.1600

Joe’s Jeans

L.A.-based boutique delivers trendy wardrobe staples and a selection of exclusive pieces for men, women and children. 8432 Melrose place, L.A., 323.944.0656


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in this neighborhood. This is the city’s Euro Zone, where you’re apt to hear more French and Italian than Valley Girl. For up-to-theminute fashion, check out the collections at Oliver Peoples or either of the two H. Lorenzo shops. Pamper yourself with a facial and massage at Ole Henriksen Face/Body Spa, a blowout at Drybar or a makeover at Blushington.


Melrose Avenue has become virtually synonymous with trendiness, and new expressions in fashion, art and food continue to percolate up and down this street with multiple personalities. One stretch of Melrose, east of Fairfax Avenue, has an eclectic mix of indie boutiques, cafes and coffeehouses interspersed with tattoo parlors and vintage shops. Stores such as Wasteland and Ed Hardy have wild façades and vibrant signage that add energy to the scene. Farther west, Melrose becomes très sophistiqué, showcasing upscale tastes at Ron Herman, Kelly Wearstler, TenOverSix and Vivienne Westwood. Just off Melrose is the quiet, fashionable three-block street of Melrose Place, where Bentleys line up for chic salons such as Frédéric Fekkai and cutting-edge boutiques such as Zero + Maria Cornejo, Monique Lhuillier or Marni.


Melrose Avenue’s massive Pacific Design Center is the hub of L.A.’s flourishing art, fashion and design district known as the Avenues, which runs along Melrose Avenue and Beverly and Robertson boulevards. The complex itself—monolithic blue, green and red buildings designed by celebrated architect Cesar Pelli—is itself noteworthy (you’ll either love it or hate it), but its 1.2 million square feet houses more than 130 showrooms catering to professional designers and luxury homeowners. PDC is also home to a

satellite of downtown’s Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) and a stylish Wolfgang Puck eatery, Red Seven.


Beverly Boulevard and West 3rd Street are major east-west streets running through West Hollywood, filled with trendy restaurants, design showrooms and boutiques from some of the hottest up-and-coming clothing designers. The two streets bracket the landmark eight-level Beverly Center, whose design is reminiscent of Paris’ Pompidou Center. Bloomingdale’s, Henri Bendel, Fendi, Gucci, Stuart Weitzman and the Capital Grille are among more than 160 establishments drawing consumers. On West 3rd Street east of Beverly Center, you’ll find favorite boutiques such as Shareen, BedHead for chic pajamas and Duncan Quinn for bespoke tailored suits. There are many dining options such as Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo’s Son of a Gun, plus a branch of Magnolia Bakery. On Beverly Boulevard, you can browse vintage Lanvin at Beige, or score handcrafted shoes at Calleen Cordero. Afterward, you can experience market-fresh American cuisine at Cooks County or hearty Italian on the romantic patio at Dominick’s.


Beverly Hills may be the toniest shopping district in L.A., but West Hollywood’s Robertson Boulevard is not far behind, particularly if you’re young and hot and have your own reality show. The celebutante set hits Curve for designer womenswear, Zimmermann for haute swimwear and Kitson for trendy accessories. A cutting-edge Chanel concept store illustrates the difference between Robertson Boulevard and more staid Rodeo Drive. For a breather between boutique-hopping, consider a cocktail with crab cakes on the picket-

fenced patio of Ivy Restaurant, where famous faces practically outnumber those of civilians.


Technically part of the city of Los Angeles, the Fairfax District is one of the most culturally diverse and artsy neighborhoods in the West Hollywood area. At Fairfax Avenue and Wilshire Boulevard is the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), a renowned multifaceted facility with more than 100,000 works from around the world. The Broad Contemporary Art Museum, designed by architect Renzo Piano, showcases art from the contemporary and modern eras, while the latest additions to the LACMA campus include the Lynda and Stewart Resnick Exhibition Pavilion and Ray’s & Stark Bar. Adjacent to LACMA is the Page Museum at the La Brea Tar Pits. Additional venues at this formidable Museum Row include the Petersen Automotive Museum and the Architecture and Design Museum. South of the museums is a surprise for curious foodies: a neighborhood known as Little Ethiopia, where acclaimed Ethiopian restaurants are located. Be prepared to eat with your hands! One of the district’s anchors is the historic Farmers Market, with more than 100 open-air produce stalls, shops and eateries. There are spots to satisfy virtually any craving, including a wine bar, taquería and stands with authentic Louisiana gumbo and Korean barbecue. Adjacent and connected by a vintage trolley is The Grove, an outdoor, pedestrian-only shopping center. The Grove has the character of an old-fashioned village square, with stained-glass street lamps and central fountain. Nordstrom, a movie theater and stores such as Athleta and Splendid are joined by eateries and restaurants. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of West Hollywood, see pages 108–109.

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DETOX DESTINATION Celebrity nutritionist and The Beauty Detox Solution author Kimberly Snyder helps keep A-listers like Drew Barrymore, Fergie and Hilary Duff feeling and looking in top form. Now, with the opening of her new flagship shop Glow by Kimberly Snyder, she brings her “inner-health equals outer-beauty” recipes to the masses. The yummies include organic, nutritious smoothies and revitalizing cold-pressed juices packed with locally sourced ingredients, plus loose-leaf and fresh teas, shade-grown coffee and boosters. Ecofriendly packaging and decor complement the virtuous menu, and outdoor patio seating is perfect for detoxing al fresco. When friends ask your secret, tell them it’s all in the juice. 7473 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.782.3939,


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c t c la


Beverly Hills and the Farmers Market, WEST 3RD STREET is a shopping and dining experience unlike any other in Los Angeles. Each store and restaurant offers an exciting and unique vision, making West 3rd one of the most highquality and well-edited collections of merchandise and fine food anywhere in the city. Whether you are looking for fashion, furniture, gifts or food, chances are you will be inspired by what you find on West 3rd Street.

Handmade sterling silver and 14k gold jewelry cast from 19th-century wax seals rich in inspirational imagery.


8315 West 3rd Street (323) 424-4807

Couture loungewear and pajamas designed by Renee Claire and made in L.A. Also featuring fine bedding and gifts.

BedHead PaJaMaS 8336 West 3rd Street (323) 653-8336

FairFax ave FairFax ave FairFax ave FairFax ave FairFax ave FairFax ave FairFax ave FairFax ave

Nestled between West Hollywood,

CresCent HeigHts BLvd CresCent HeigHts BLvd CresCent HeigHts BLvd CresCent HeigHts BLvd


sweetzer ave sweetzer ave sweetzer ave sweetzer ave sweetzer ave sweetzer ave sweetzer ave

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w. 3rd street w. 3rd street w. 3rd street w. 3rd street w. 3rd street w. 3rd street

The Orlando on Third, a fashionable, boutique hotel in a vibrant, urban neighborhood. Enjoy a taste of living L.A.!

OrlandO HOtel 8384 West 3rd Street (800) 624-6835

Contemporary children’s clothing, toys and accessories.


8365 West 3rd Street (323) 658-8882

Show Pony features eco-clothing, hand-crafted jewelry, one-of-a-kind accessories, leather handbags, shoes and unique gifts.


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From left: The Frank Lloyd Wright-designed Hollyhock House; Hollywood Walk of Fame; carousel in Griffith Park in Los Feliz

“Hollywood is a state of mind” was a popular refrain when this part of Los Angeles was in the midst of its decline not long ago. But with hot new boutiques, restaurants, hotels and condos sprouting up, it has reemerged as a bona fide destination. Amid a spirit of transformation, the neon lights on Hollywood Boulevard’s landmark movie palaces are fired up again, as waves of international visitors mingle with colorful locals. This new Golden Age of Hollywood marks the best time to visit in decades.

Hollywood + Highland

The Hollywood & Highland Center has been a catalyst for the rebirth of Hollywood Boulevard. Its Dolby Theatre, formerly the Kodak Theatre, is the home of the Academy Awards and new Cirque du Soleil show Iris, which premiered last year. The center’s shops are varied, including Lucky Brand and Louis Vuitton, and it boasts nightclub Level 3. The central Babylon Court frames views of the iconic Hollywood sign. Built in 1923 to advertise a housing development, the 45-foot-high letters originally read “Hollywoodland.” Next door to Hollywood & Highland is Grauman’s Chinese Theatre, famous for its celebrity handprints embedded in the cement out front.


Just across the street from Hollywood & Highland is the ornate, lavishly illuminated El Capitan Theatre. Masterfully restored by Disney, it offers special presentations of the studio’s animated releases combined with performances using an antique Wurlitzer pipe organ and childrenpleasing stage shows. Jimmy Kimmel Live! tapes in an ABC studio next door. The Egyptian Theatre—built in 1922 around the time that King Tut’s tomb was discovered—screens eclectic artsy fare. The landmark Pantages Theatre has staged megahit musicals including The Book of Mormon, and the Hollywood Palladium has a rich history of showcasing headlining musicians.


Hollywood is reclaiming its legendary glamour, and once-bohemian Los Feliz and Silver Lake are sharing in Tinseltown’s new Golden Age.


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new in town Clare Vivier

flagship boutique features the designer’s line of brightly colored, minimalist handbags, accessories and gadget cases. 3339 w. Sunset Blvd., Silver lake, 323.665.2476

Dream Collective

designer kathryn Bentley displays her high-end costume jewelry and fine jewelry lines, plus clothing and accessories, at flagship store. 1404 Micheltorena St., Silver lake, 323.660.2000


ginger beer, barrel-aged cocktails, and Southern-inspired libations at Savannah townhouse. 1233 n. Vine St., l.a., 323.467.2800

Griffith Observatory in Griffith Park

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Walk of Fame

The sidewalks along 15 blocks of Hollywood Boulevard (La Brea Avenue to Gower Street) and three blocks of Vine Street (Yucca Street to Sunset Boulevard) are inlaid with the legendary brass-and-terrazzo stars honoring celebrities from the entertainment industry. More than 2,400 stars are enshrined beneath the feet of tourists, but the roster is not without its quirks—Pee-wee Herman has one but Clint Eastwood doesn’t. Marilyn Monroe’s star is steps from Hollywood & Highland, and John Lennon’s is appropriately located in front of the Capitol Records Building, the structure designed to resemble a stack of records.


Hollywood has its museums, but don’t expect to encounter Picasso or Monet, or even a T. rex skeleton. Next to Grauman’s Chinese Theatre is Madame Tussauds Hollywood, filled with more than 100 wax figures ranging from legends Clark Gable and Audrey Hepburn to contemporary icons such as Justin Timberlake and Lady Gaga. You can ponder some zany accomplishments at the Guinness World Records Museum, while the Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Museum offers bizarre exhibitions on double-headed animals and shrunken human heads. Serious movie buffs, however, head to the Hollywood Museum, which occupies four floors of the historic Max Factor Building. Among the 10,000 costumes and artifacts on display are Indiana Jones’ whip, Rocky Balboa’s boxing gloves and W.C. Fields’ top hat.


The storied intersection of Hollywood Boulevard and Vine Street, the epicenter of the Hollywood Walk of Fame, boasted a large concentration of entertainment industry companies in the 1920s. It’s a different Hol-

lywood today, but the magic of this location endures in the soaring W Hollywood Hotel & Residences, which boasts Delphine brasserie and Drai’s rooftop club. A Metro station is integrated into the hotel; Hollywood is particularly well served by mass transit. Across the street is boutique hotel the Redbury and its stylish Middle Eastern restaurant, Cleo. Sunset Boulevard and Vine is in transition, but dance clubs and eateries give this corner plenty of character. Serious cinephiles catch their flicks at ArcLight Cinemas, where it’s easy to spot a celeb. Close by is Amoeba Music, where music fans and collectors browse the aisles through 31,000 square feet of space packed with rare vinyl records, CDs and memorabilia. A couple of blocks west is the stylish minicomplex Space 15 Twenty, catering to shoppers well into the evening. The center is anchored by a supersize Urban Outfitters and complemented by other hip boutiques.


The revival of Hollywood has only enhanced its endless nightlife opportunities, and a lively bar and club scene permeates the district. On Hollywood Boulevard, you can party under the guise of literary advancement at library-themed Hemingway’s, or attempt to get past the velvet rope at Playhouse or Lure on Ivar Avenue. Cahuenga Boulevard also hosts dozens of clubs. Quintessentially L.A. but a galaxy removed from Hollywood Boulevard is the Hollywood Bowl, the largest outdoor amphitheater in the U.S., where the Los Angeles Philharmonic takes up residence from June to October. Picnicking under the stars here is among the most memorable experiences in L.A. Nearby is the Ford Amphitheatre, featuring a more intimate environment for international music, dance and family fare.


These neighborhoods are among the bestkept secrets in the county. Vermont Avenue, the main drag in Los Feliz, presents a collection of shops and restaurants that range from bohemian to chic. Skylight Books and 24/7 diner Fred 62 are popular hangouts. Newer lounges such as Rockwell represent the neighborhood’s increasing sophistication. A once-forgotten stretch of Hollywood Boulevard in Los Feliz now hosts trendy boutiques such as Confederacy and restaurants including cult fave Umami Burger. Fully transformed is Silver Lake Boulevard, now crowded with eateries and upscale retailers. At Sunset Junction, where Sunset and Santa Monica Boulevards intersect and the eponymous music festival takes place in summer, is where Los Feliz transitions into Silver Lake. Foodies hang at casual Forage or the Cheese Store of Silverlake, while aspiring screenwriters hammer at their laptops and sip lattes at Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea.


The largest urban park in America, this sprawling swath is an ideal place to hike, picnic, golf, ride horses and more. The Charlie Turner Trailhead begins at the Griffith Observatory, one of the great planetariums in the world and a frequent filming location. The hike up Mount Hollywood (three miles round trip) provides views of the Hollywood sign, and the nearby Greek Theatre, a 5,700-seat amphitheater, is a legendary music venue. Also located in Griffith Park is the underrated Los Angeles Zoo and Botanical Gardens and the Western heritage-oriented Autry National Center, both accessible from the Ventura (SR 134) or Golden State (I-5) freeways. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see pages 109–110.

great find

PRESCRIPTION FOR STYLE Your eyes are the windows to your soul. So what are you doing surrounding them with bland, logo-emblazoned hunks of plastic and metal that say nothing about your personal style? It’s time to visit Gogosha Optique, where eyewear evangelist Julia Gogosha and her colleagues will help you find the perfect fit for your face and your aesthetic. With high-end, cutting-edge, expertly engineered glasses and sunglasses from lines including Thierry Lasry, Anne et Valentin, Mykita and Oliver Goldsmith, Gogosha ensures those peepers get their proper due. Not near the Eastside? There’s a location on L.A.’s West 3rd Street, too. 32081/2 Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.660.1122; 8238 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.655.1122.

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From left: City Hall; signage in Grand Central Market; the Frank Gehry-designed Walt Disney Concert Hall

Beverly Hills and Venice Beach may be favorite tourist attractions, but downtown should not be overlooked. Historic art deco structures share the street-scape with glass- or titaniumclad masterpieces, and even movie stars are snapping up hip lofts carved out of turn-of-the-century structures. The city’s arts scene roars to life in downtown, a place where the usual image of L.A. as “laid-back” hardly applies.

Union Station

The ornate Union Station was the last of the grand railroad terminals built in the U.S. Its importance faded as the automobile began to dominate life in L.A., but Union Station has staged a comeback, thanks to a renovation and downtown’s new energy. From Union Station, the hub of the Metro system, you can board the Red Line to Hollywood and the San Fernando Valley or the light rail Gold Line to Pasadena, Blue Line to Long Beach and Expo Line to Culver City. Nonstop bus service to LAX is available 24/7. Metrolink commuter trains connect distant suburbs, and you can jump on an Amtrak train for a scenic journey along the coast.

Grand Avenue + MUSIC CENTER

The heart of L.A.’s performing-arts scene and the site of its most dramatic architecture, Grand Avenue is beginning to live up to its name. On Bunker Hill, once filled with Victorian mansions, four venues make up a formidable collection of stages at The Music Center. The 3,200-seat Dorothy Chandler Pavilion is home to L.A. Opera, and the Ahmanson Theatre and the Mark Taper Forum host theatrical productions. The flashiest venue is architect Frank Gehry’s curvaceous Walt Disney Concert Hall, home of the Los Angeles Philharmonic. Its music director, Gustavo Dudamel, exudes an energy that rivals the building’s audacious design. Also housed at Disney Hall is REDCAT, which offers performance and visual arts productions. After a show, take a stroll through the new 12-acre Grand Park, between Grand Avenue and Hill Street and First and Temple streets.

from left: sarah hadley; ian white; ashok sinha. opposite: ian white

L.A.’s urban center reflects the cultural diversity, worldclass architecture and dynamic commerce that make the city a superstar on the global stage.


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new in town Grand Park

Four blocks from the Music Center to City Hall feature terraces, olive trees, a performance lawn/stage and a memorial fountain. Between Grand avenue and Hill Street and First and temple streets, downtown, 213.974.1311


retail/gallery flagship shines light on design-driven lifestyle brand with signature line plus shop exclusives, original art and other products from small indie labels. 820 e. 3rd St., downtown, 213.537.0751

Sandast High-quality, vintage-inspired bags and belts for men and women from designer Milan Franeta. 1205 S. Hill St., downtown, 213.748.1210

The Bradbury Building is an iconic example of Italian Renaissance Revival architecture.


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deSCendinG BUnKer Hill

Steps from the music Center is the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels, designed by Spanish architect José Rafael moneo. A short walk south on Grand is the Museum of Contemporary Art (mOCA), Southern California’s premier contemporary art museum. The Omni Hotel and California Plaza are adjacent. Nearby Angels knoll is a welcome patch of greenery amid the concrete jungle. Angels Flight, a vintage funicular that climbs to California Plaza from Hill Street below, is billed as “The Shortest Railway in the world” (just 298 feet!); a ride costs 25 cents. At the foot of the hill, the Bunker Hill Steps rise five stories at the U.S. Bank Tower, the tallest building west of the mississippi. Across the street is the Los Angeles Public Library, an art deco masterpiece.

olvera Street

The origin of the city of Los Angeles, dating back to 1781, is El Pueblo de Los Angeles, a collection of 27 buildings along festive pedestrian concourse Olvera Street. The city’s oldest building, Avila Adobe (circa 1818), is located here, along with mexican restaurants, mariachi bands and merchants offering arts and crafts. A few blocks away is the city’s oldest restaurant, Philippe the Original (1908), where a cup of joe is just 45 cents.

HiStoriC diStriCtS

Often overlooked by tourists is the Broadway Theatre District, home to once-opulent movie palaces. A few, such as the Orpheum Theatre, have been restored to their original grandeur. Historic structures are being converted into lofts; Johnny Depp owns a condo in Broadway’s Eastern Columbia Building. The Bradbury Building (304 S. Broadway), built in 1893 in the Italian Renaissance Revival style, was featured in the film Blade Runner.

Spring Street from 4th to 7th streets is a rapidly awakening area once referred to as the “wall Street of the west.” Steps from this historic district is a row of hip bars on 6th Street (between main and Los Angeles streets) that includes The Varnish.

SHoppinG diStriCtS

Downtown’s heritage as a mercantile center can still be experienced in its historic shopping districts, popular with bargain hunters. The Jewelry District draws shoppers to markets such as St. Vincent Jewelry Center (650 S. Hill St.), where 500 merchants offer gold, diamonds and baubles. In the neighboring Fashion District, 115 blocks centered around the California market Center, you can find designer clothing items. At Santee Alley, an open-air bargain bazaar, designer trends breed low-priced knockoffs. The Flower District offers blooms at wholesale prices. And for an awesome array of produce and international foods, Grand Central market, near the foot of Angels Flight, is the place to go. many vendors here deal in cash only.


Chinatown remains a great destination for sampling dim sum or browsing for authentic clothing, tea or home furnishings. Cultural highlights include the ornate Thien Hau Temple (750 yale St.) and the Chinese American museum. Pedestrian-oriented Chung king Road and Gin Ling way are now home to galleries and Mountain Bar, while Broadway boasts cool boutiques. Dodger Stadium is a short drive away, as is San Antonio Winery, which offers tours and tastings.

little toKYo

Little Tokyo is still a proud ethnic enclave, but it, too, is emerging as an up-and-coming hipster ’hood. The dining scene is popping, led by newer restaurants such as The Spice

Table, and you can still nibble on traditional sushi prepared by veteran chefs at Japanese Village Plaza. Just a few steps down 1st Street is the sleek, glass-ensconced Japanese American National Museum. The Geffen Contemporary, a Frank Gehry-renovated branch of mOCA, is next door. At 2nd and main streets is the historic Cathedral of Saint Vibiana, formerly home of the Los Angeles Archdiocese.

l.a. live

The $2.5 billion L.A. Live project has been called the epicenter of the downtown renaissance. Staples Center, home to the Los Angeles Lakers, Clippers and kings, hosts top pop acts, as does Nokia Theatre L.A. Live, which boasts state-of-the-art acoustics. The adjoining Grammy Museum honors myriad music genres with videos, artifacts and interactive exhibits. A dozen restaurants and nightlife venues—WP24, Trader Vic’s and Lucky Strike Lanes, to name a few—face a massive urban plaza lined with towering LED screens. The Los Angeles Convention Center, encompassing 16-plus acres of exhibition space, is also here.

expoSition parK

Just south of downtown is Exposition Park, whose grounds hold major museums and the Los Angeles memorial Coliseum. The sevenacre Exposition Park Rose Garden is legendary, and the Beaux-Arts-style Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County offers insight into prehistoric giants. The California Science Center has a 3-D ImAX theater and is the home of a new exhibit featuring the retired NASA space shuttle Endeavour, which was recently flown to L.A. on the back of a Boeing 747. Farther west of Exposition Park is the jazz and blues capital of Leimert Park; south is watts, home of the watts Towers. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of downtown, see page 109.

great find

RETAIL POWER The stylish but understated men’s clothing and accessories at Apolis: Common Gallery are designed to weather years of changing fashion trends and hard use. But what’s equally admirable about Apolis is something you can’t see or feel when you wear its heritagequality clothes: its social entrepreneurialism. Some sixty percent of the company’s products are American-made and crafted within 10 miles of its L.A. headquarters. Other products, such as the jute-and-leather Los Angeles Market Bag, are produced in partnership with like-minded manufacturers, supporting artisans and their communities worldwide. Apolis’s mission to empower people globally and locally means not only do its products look good, they do good. 806 E. 3rd St., downtown, 213.613.9626,


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LA’S CHOICE FOR OUTLET SHOPPING Find out what’s behind the wall at Citadel Outlets and save 30-70% off full retail from over 120 of your favorite brand names. Visit for a complete store listing and exclusive offers.

BEHIND THE WALL. BEYOND EXPECTATIONS. Just minutes from Downtown LA on I-5 at the Atlantic Exit.

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Citadel Outlets now offers round-trip shuttle service seven days a week from most major Anaheim hotels. Visit for shuttle times and additional transportation information.

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Pasadena, aka the Crown City, brings a blend of small-town charm and cosmopolitan energy. Eagle Rock, Glendale and the San Gabriel Valley are also worth discovering.

Just minutes from downtown via the historic Arroyo Seco Parkway or the Metro Gold Line train, Pasadena is no ordinary bedroom community. The Craftsman-style bungalows in its leafy neighborhoods hint of a world-renowned architectural heritage, and institutions such as the Tournament of Roses, Caltech and NASA’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory, nearby, give the community a gravitas far beyond its size. In neighboring San Gabriel Valley communities, additional treasures await.

Old Pasadena

A tribute to foresighted urban planning is the 22-square block shopping district known as Old Pasadena, roughly bounded by Walnut Street and Del Mar Boulevard, Arroyo Parkway and Pasadena Avenue. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the once-neglected district contains restored buildings and the city’s trendiest boutiques, nightclubs and restaurants such as Cheval Blanc Bistro and Haven Gastropub + Brewery. Pedestrian-only alleys meander through One Colorado, where an eclectic collection of restaurants have alfresco dining overlooking a sculpture-strewn square. A few steps east of Old Pasadena lies Paseo Colorado, an inviting shopping center with ArcLight Cinemas and upscale shops such as Coach and BCBG Max Azria lining garden promenades. A variety of dining options is offered at this mixed-use development, whose open-air design frames views of such historic structures as Pasadena City Hall (100 N. Garfield Ave.).

Playhouse District

Anchored by the Mission-style Pasadena Playhouse, this district is filled with upscale antique shops, boutiques and dining rooms with ornate façades. Also present is the Le Cordon Bleu-affiliated College of Culinary Arts, with a restaurant open to the public, and the famed Ice House comedy club. The neighboring Boston Court Performing Arts Center presents dramas and musicals. The pagoda-crowned Pacific Asia Museum features exotic

from left: amy k. fellows; edwin santiago; bjarne g. jensen. opposite: edwin santiago

From left: The streets of Old Pasadena; Pasadena City Hall; Colorado Street Bridge


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new in town Bellacures

chic salon’s newest location beautifies with manicures, pedicures and waxing. 40 Mills Place, Pasadena, 626.264.8616

Disney Baby

the iconic brand offers essential products for mealtime, playtime, bathtime and more at its first bricks-and-mortar store. the americana at Brand, 889 americana Way, glendale, 818.638.8016


choose from high-end brands and limitededition frames at this optical shop. the americana at Brand, 889 americana Way, glendale, 818.244.5647


Old town restaurant is inspired by pintxos bars in spain’s san sebastian. 119 W. green st., Pasadena, 626.396.3090

The Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens in San Marino

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decorative arts from every corner of Asia, and the Pasadena Museum of California Art celebrates Golden State painters and sculptors from 1850 to the present. Dining choices include Pie ’n Burger, a favorite Caltech dive. Just east of the Playhouse District, South Lake Avenue provides a vibrant shopping environment. At the Commons and Burlington Arcade, charming boutiques are set around European-style courtyards. A drive farther south on Lake Avenue reveals the opulent, historic Langham Huntington Hotel.

Orange grOve BOulevard

This wide boulevard, once called Millionaire’s Row, is still lined with splendid estates, including the former Wrigley Mansion, which now houses the Tournament of Roses Association and is open for tours. The immediate neighborhood features the legacy of architects Frank Lloyd Wright, Wallace Neff and Paul Williams. The genius of Greene & Greene, pioneers of the Arts & Crafts movement, is evident at the Gamble House, also open to the public. Just around the corner on Colorado Boulevard is the Norton Simon Museum, home to one of the finest art collections in America. The galleries at this small museum are filled with masterpieces from the Renaissance to the 20th century, and its repertoire of Impressionist masters (Monet, Cézanne, van Gogh) is impressive. It also features extensive art from India and a tribute to Degas in a lovely sculpture garden.

San MarInO + SOuTH PaSadena

In the exclusive residential community of San Marino is the Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens, one of the most remarkable pieces of real estate in Southern California. Here the beautifully restored Itali-

anate mansion of railroad magnate Henry Huntington is packed with 18th- and 19thcentury art including Thomas Gainsborough’s Blue Boy and Sir Thomas Lawrence’s Pinkie. A library with 600,000 rare books and manuscripts occupies another structure. Throughout the 200-acre property are more than one dozen distinct botanical environments, re-creating native habitats from England, China and elsewhere. Tea service is offered in a cottage amid a formal rose garden. Directly south of Old Pasadena is the independent municipality of South Pasadena, a shady, tranquil community. The Mission West historic district, particularly Mission Street, is packed with antique shops, galleries and cafes. The town is particularly kidfriendly, thanks to adorable shops such as the Dinosaur Farm and Fair Oaks Pharmacy, a 1915 restored drugstore with a soda fountain.

eagle rOCK + glendale

Just west of Pasadena is Eagle Rock, a quiet college town that is reinventing itself as a hip neighborhood with an understated bohochic vibe. Students from Occidental College, where a young Barack Obama studied, mingle with young couples who have snapped up the hillside real estate. Its main drag of Colorado Boulevard is suddenly lined with one trendy cafe after another, from Vietnamese to French to vegetarian—plus Casa Bianca, a venerable old-school pizza joint. On the other side of Eagle Rock is Glendale. Office workers pour out of high-rises for happy hour at The Americana at Brand, an open-air shopping, residential and entertainment development. Here, find value at H&M or splurge at boutiques such as Kate Spade. It’s a great place for a movie followed by a snack from Crumbs Bake Shop or sushi and cocktails at Katsuya. The trilevel indoor shopping center Glendale Galleria is adjacent. Its

department stores include Nordstrom, Macy’s and Target, and specialty boutiques include Banana Republic, Coach and Tilly’s. Glendale’s diverse population—it’s home to one of the largest Armenian communities in America—provides plenty of flavor, including elaborate restaurants. Marked by a towering neon obelisk is the Alex Theatre (216 N. Brand Blvd.), an art deco masterpiece that hosts concerts and musicals. Just north of downtown Glendale is the delightful community of Montrose, with its homespun shops and all-American diners. Nearby is sprawling Descanso Gardens, home to North America’s largest camellia collection—an awesome sight when fully in bloom during January and February.

San gaBrIel valleY

Kissing Pasadena’s eastern border is Sierra Madre, a quaint community that refuses to be paved over. Arcadia is home to Santa Anita Park, one of the most storied thoroughbred horse racing venues in the world. Adjacent to the racetrack is Westfield Santa Anita, an ever-expanding shopping center. Arcadia is also home to the 127-acre Los Angeles County Arboretum and Botanical Garden, whose natural Southern California habitat is famous for its wild peafowl; you might see a flock crossing nearby streets. The 1771 San Gabriel Mission is a notable landmark in the neighboring city of San Gabriel. The San Gabriel Valley cities of San Gabriel, Temple City, Alhambra and Monterey Park have drawn large numbers of Chinese and Vietnamese immigrants in recent decades, and some of the best Chinese restaurants in America are found here, including Hong Kong-style seafood houses that are great fun for dim sum brunches. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 110.

great find

TEAM CALIFORNIA In swimming-speak, the individual medley is an event in which a single swimmer performs four different strokes to win the race. In retail-speak, Individual Medley is a curated space in which an adorable duo of shopowners (namely, Monica and Justin Boyes) brings together a mix of new and vintage wares and wears to win customers’ hearts. Their new Atwater Village shop reflects the owners’ love of all things California. From kids’ clothing by L.A.-based Boy+Girl to candles and incense by Juniper Ridge to their inspired selection of vintage housewares and men’s and women’s clothing, the vibe is at once modern rustic and casually cool. Based on style points alone, we award Monica and Justin the gold. 3176 Glendale Blvd., Atwater Village, 323.665.5344,


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hollywood on hollywood blvd. • +1-323-464-7625 at universal citywalk • +1-818-622-7625 ©2011 Hard Rock International (USA), Inc. All rights reserved. SeeTheShow™

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ust 15 minutes from downtown Los Angeles, and conveniently

situated along the Metro Gold Line, Old Pasadena is a vibrant hub of world-class shopping, dining, arts, and entertainment. Comprised of 22 blocks of nationally-registered historic architecture, Old Pasadena is widely recognized as a premier destination and one of the few truly


walkable urban districts in California. Come explore more than 300 specialty boutiques, exclusive retailers, sidewalk cafĂŠs, and fine restaurants in this authentic main street experience.

A contemporary cabinet of curiosities with a museum perspective on current artists, jewelers, and designers.

Expert repair on premises and a unique selection of watches. Specialist in buying, selling and trading vintage watches.

The only hotel located within Old Pasadena. Walking distance to 300 shops and restaurants. Full-service accommodations.

Gold Bug

Pasadena Watch Co.

Courtyard by Marriott

22 E. Union St. 626.744.9963

20 E. Colorado Blvd. 626.440.7002

180 N. Fair Oaks Ave. 626.403.7600

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Famous for their 50% ground bacon and 50% ground beef burger, as well as a passion for gourmet comfort food and craft beer.

Slater’s 50/50

The greatest store in the entire world for busty ladies. A stunning collection of bras and matching panties where “The Alphabet starts at D”.

Shopping is fun at this high-end designer resale store, offering the best of recent and vintage Chanel, Vuitton, Prada and more!

Jenette Bras

Clothes Heaven

60 N. Raymond Ave. 626.765.9700

18 E. Holly St. 626.744.9484

111 E. Union St. 626.440.0929

Luxurious Eco-Friendly boutique offering modern organic essentials for the style and health conscious consumer.

Award-winning cupcakes made fresh every day! Even Martha Stewart agrees, Violet’s is making the world a better place, one cupcake at a time.

Artful living boutique that mixes new upscale furnishings with vintage and renovated second-hand treasures.

Botany’s Desire

Violet’s Cakes

Maude Woods

8 E. Holly St. 626.229.9998

21 E. Holly St. 626.395.9821

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The Valley

The San Fernando Valley, aka “the other side of the hill,” celebrates the Hollywood spirit.

The Valley is a sprawling collection of bedroom communities whose population approaches 2 million. Immortalized in movies as diverse as Chinatown and Valley Girl, the area derives its name from Mission San Fernando Rey de España, the historic landmark on the Valley’s northernmost edge. Universal Studios Hollywood and Universal CityWalk hug a hillside above the Hollywood Freeway, marking the southeastern gateway to the Valley.

Universal City

Just a couple of Metro stops north of the heart of Hollywood is Universal City, a major entertainment industry outpost. Universal Studios Hollywood offers a behind-the-scenes peek into moviemaking and high-tech action rides such as the new Transformers Ride and King Kong 360 3-D, created by film director Peter Jackson. Guests who splurge for Universal’s VIP Experience are pampered like stars and can cut to the front of the line for every ride. Among the wide-ranging attractions next door at pedestrian-only Universal CityWalk are sky-diving simulations at iFLY Hollywood, an exhilarating wind tunnel, mechanical bull riding at Saddle Ranch Chop House, stand-up performances at Jon Lovitz Comedy Club and rock-and-roll bowling at Jillian’s Hi Life Lanes. Boutiques such as Abercrombie & Fitch and Guess Accessories will loosen your wallet before you take in such diverse acts as Ke$ha and Judas Priest at the neighboring Gibson Amphitheatre.


The “beautiful downtown Burbank” that Johnny Carson used to poke fun at has grown up into a cosmopolitan hub with 80 restaurants, 200 shops and 30 movie screens. Burbank Town Center (201 E. Magnolia Blvd.) offers a major mall shopping experience, but surrounding streets, such as historic San Fernando Boulevard, have a more homegrown feel with hip shops and trendy bistros such as Granville Café. Magnolia Park, a quaint

FAR LEFT AND FAR RIGHT, EDWIN SANTIAGO; center, rick meyer. OPPOSITE: mark lipski

From left: The NoHo Arts Center in North Hollywood; AMC Walkway in Burbank; Universal CityWalk in Universal City


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commercial district centered at Magnolia Boulevard and Hollywood Way, offers cafes, antique shops and boutiques including Encore Nouveau and Swift. Porto’s Bakery is renowned for its Cuban confections and sandwiches, and the iconic Bob’s Big Boy hosts a classic car show every Friday. DeBell Golf Club is open to the public and offers a challenging 18-hole course and a par-three course. If you’re jetting into or out of L.A., you can escape the hassles of LAX by opting for convenient, uncongested Bob Hope Airport in Burbank. It offers nonstop flights to many cities across the country and reduces stress, especially for visitors to the San Fernando Valley, Pasadena or San Gabriel Valley communities.


While the Valley may be dismissed by Westside hipsters, there’s as much Hollywood going on here as in Hollywood itself, thanks to the presence of several studios in Burbank. Warner Bros. Studios and NBC Studios offer back-lot tours similar to those at Universal, and all of the studios recruit audience members for tapings of sitcoms and talk shows. Audiences Unlimited is among the ticketing agencies offering the best opportunities to score free tickets to tapings. For The Tonight Show with Jay Leno, contact NBC directly.

Petty, the boulevard is an integral part of L.A. culture. As it stretches through Studio City, it’s lined with an eclectic mix of eateries, from entertainment-industry-favored Art’s Deli to elegant Bistro Garden, not to mention a greater concentration of acclaimed sushi bars (Katsu-ya, Asanebo) than Little Tokyo. For shopping, there are hip boutiques including Dari and stylish retreats such as ROB|B by OPI Salon and Belle Visage Day Spa, owned by Kirsten Dunst’s mother. Hip bars and supper clubs including Firefly have helped to launch a nightlife scene. You’ll see plenty of famous faces in the Valley, where celebrities treasure its more family-oriented lifestyle. Farther west, as the boulevard winds its way through Sherman Oaks, you’ll encounter laid-back trattorias and bistros as well as shops such as Abundance, a boutique showcasing plus-size designer fashions. Sherman Oaks is also home to Westfield Fashion Square, anchored by Bloomingdale’s and featuring Betsey Johnson, BCBG Max Azria and Lucky Brand boutiques in a particularly pleasant, upscale environment. Sherman Oaks Galleria is near the junction of the 405 and 101 freeways; draws include ArcLight Cinemas.


Warner Center is a high-rise mixed-use development in Woodland Hills with restaurants such as Roy’s. Neighboring Westfield Topanga shopping center is loaded with exclusive designer boutiques, including Louis Vuitton, Jimmy Choo, Cartier and Hugo Boss, plus anchoring department stores Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom and Macy’s. Farther westbound on the Ventura Freeway (U.S. 101) is Calabasas, where celebrities move for clean air and elbow room. Upscale shopping and casual eateries live at the Commons at Calabasas (4799 Commons Way). A few exits beyond that is Westlake Village, where locals hit the spa or do lunch at the Four Seasons. Air Force One is permanently grounded at the Ronald Reagan Presidential Library & Museum in neighboring Simi Valley. North on the Golden State Freeway (I-5) in Valencia, coaster enthusiasts gather at Six Flags Magic Mountain for rides too wild for Disneyland. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 110.

The Commons at Calabasas


North Hollywood wasn’t much of a tourist destination until the community transformed its commercial core into the NoHo Arts District, now filled with nearly two dozen professional theaters, including the landmark El Portal Theatre. These venues present some of the most innovative stage performances in L.A., as neighboring dance studios and art galleries contribute to the scene. With the addition of new restaurants like the Federal Bar, a lively gastropub with a full calendar of music and comedy, the momentum continues for this transit-linked urban village. From NoHo’s Metro station, you can access central Hollywood and downtown via the Red Line subway, or board the Orange Line, a surprisingly sleek express bus that traverses the entire San Fernando Valley.

Ventura Boulevard This iconic, palm-lined boulevard stretches 20 miles from one end of the San Fernando Valley to the other. Immortalized in music by the Everly Brothers, Frank Zappa and Tom

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South Bay

The South Bay’s beaches and harbors are actionpacked, but the living is easy. Look for ocean-view dining, mom-andpop shops and seaside attractions.

In the South Bay, the cities of Manhattan Beach, Hermosa Beach and Redondo Beach occupy an idyllic coastal stretch renowned for surfing, volleyball and expensive real estate. Farther south beckon the rugged bluffs of the Palos Verdes Peninsula, and beyond them, the bustling waterfronts of San Pedro and Long Beach. Longing for a laid-back vibe? Scenic beaches? Premier shopping and dining? Outdoor adventure? You’ll find all of them—and more—here.

Manhattan Beach

Nineteen miles southwest of downtown Los Angeles, Manhattan Beach boasts two miles of beaches with sand so fine that developers from Waikiki Beach in Honolulu imported it in the 1920s. One of the more affluent cities in the county, Manhattan Beach is home to many professional athletes: You may spot an L.A. Kings player as you walk along the Strand, the pedestrian promenade sandwiched between multimillion-dollar homes and the beachfront bike trail. At the end of the 928-foot-long Manhattan Beach Pier, the Roundhouse Aquarium delights with touch tanks and terrifies with a lifesize replica of a great white shark. The pier features bronze plaques commemorating winners of the Manhattan Beach Open—the South Bay is die-hard beach-volleyball country. It’s also a playground for water-sports enthusiasts, including boogie-boarders and surfers who congregate near the pier. East of the pier, casual cafes, laid-back bars and upscale boutiques radiate from the intersection of Manhattan Beach Boulevard and Manhattan Avenue. Metlox plaza is a popular gathering spot, with such shops as Baby Wright’s and the Beehive and hot spots such as Zinc at the Shade Hotel.

Hermosa Beach

Heading south on Manhattan Avenue brings you to Pier Avenue, the heart of Hermosa Beach. Hermosa shares many characteristics of Manhattan Beach, including a scenic twomile stretch of beachfront punctuated by volleyball nets, fitness buffs weaving along the

far left and center, bjarne g. jensen; far right, edwin santiago. opposite: christopher ian smith

From left: The Korean Bell of Friendship in San Pedro; Shoreline Village in Long Beach; Maison Riz restaurant on Redondo Beach Pier


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Lions Lighthouse for Sight in Long Beach

new in town Catalina Coffee & Cafe

Family-owned extension of catalina coffee company serves coffee, beer, wine and a small selection of lunch and dinner items. 2810 artesia Blvd., redondo Beach, 310.598.3951

20/20 Sports Bar & Grill sporting events on 20 tVs, plus 20 beers on tap, 20 appetizers, 20 ways to make your own pizza, burgers, burritos and more. 2701 190th st., redondo Beach, 310.469.6636

USS Iowa World War ii battleship takes on new mission, docked at the port of los angeles as a floating museum. 250 s. harbor Blvd., san pedro, 877.446.9261


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Strand (here merged with the bike path), and a pier studded with bronze plaques commemorating surfing legends. Come late afternoon, the pedestrian plaza at Pier Avenue west of Hermosa Avenue becomes a different kind of South Bay scene, thanks to spillover from hopping bars and restaurants such as Hennessey’s and Mediterraneo. Beyond Pier Plaza to the south, on Hermosa Avenue, Jay Leno draws crowds to the Comedy & Magic Club with Sunday night shows. To the plaza’s east, the ecofriendly cafe/boutique Gum Tree is a charming standout among the specialty shops and bistros that line Pier Avenue. Across the street, Becker’s carries surfboards and beachwear apropos for the town’s reigning pastimes.

Redondo Beach

The largest of L.A. County’s beach cities, Redondo Beach is home to the 1,457-seat Redondo Beach Performing Arts Center and a recreational waterfront featuring two miles of sandy beaches, the popular Redondo Beach Pier and King Harbor. Sepulveda Boulevard becomes Pacific Coast Highway as it enters town; signs point west to King Harbor’s Redondo Beach Marina, one of four marinas in the harbor. Here, you find businesses such as Redondo Sportfishing offering recreational fishing excursions and whale-watching tours, while other local outfitters rent kayaks, paddle boats, bicycles and wave runners. South of the harbor, the historic Redondo Beach Pier has had its ups and downs, but it keeps rising from the ashes to attract locals and visitors to quick eats, amusements and souvenir shops. South of the pier, the gentle waves and somewhat narrow beach of Redondo State Beach draw crowds during the summer, while the bike path meanders by on its way to its terminus at Torrance State Beach. One block east of the beach, the Riviera Village shopping district has a small-town feel, with restaurants

and specialty boutiques such as Lisa Z. and MPressions covering a six-block radius.


Beyond Redondo Beach rises the Palos Verdes Peninsula, a rugged 26-square-mile area known for majestic bluffs that afford sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean and Santa Catalina Island. Hugging the coast on Palos Verdes Drive West brings you to Rancho Palos Verdes’ Point Vicente Interpretive Center, a marine museum and popular gray-whale-watching site during the annual northbound migration. Eight miles inland on Crenshaw Boulevard sprawls the 87-acre South Coast Botanic Garden in tony Palos Verdes Estates. Just beyond the interpretive center on Palos Verdes Drive West is the Wayfarers Chapel, designed by Lloyd Wright, son of Frank. The impressive Swedenborgian “glass church” is a popular wedding venue. Golfers, take note: The Mediterraneanstyle Terranea Resort, just south of the chapel, has a public nine-hole course. A couple of miles south, the 18-hole public golf course at Trump National Golf Club is top-ranked.


The multicultural city of San Pedro, on the southeastern side of the Palos Verdes Peninsula, was once the largest commercial fishing port in the nation. Today, it’s home to the Port of Los Angeles, a major container port that also serves travelers on the Catalina Express and more than 1 million cruise passengers annually. From the port’s World Cruise Center, a vintage trolley takes visitors downtown to the waterfront restaurants and shops of the New England-style Ports O’ Call Village, and then to the marina, part of the Cabrillo Beach Recreational Complex. The complex includes a historic bathhouse and the Frank Gehry-designed Cabrillo Marine Aquarium, located next to Cabrillo Beach. Windsurfers

of all abilities congregate here, with outfitters including Captain Kirk’s (525 N. Harbor Blvd.) offering rentals and lessons.


Covering 50 square miles in the southwest corner of L.A. County, Long Beach boasts a busy commercial port, an attraction-packed waterfront and more than five miles of beaches. Among its most popular draws is the 1,020-foot-long Queen Mary, a historic, supposedly haunted ship-turned-hotel, dining and shopping attraction permanently moored in Long Beach Harbor. Alongside it is the Cold War-era Russian Foxtrot Submarine. The Long Beach Convention & Entertainment Center and the Pike at Rainbow Harbor entertainment complex are nearby, as is the Aquarium of the Pacific and the familyfriendly Shoreline Village. From the village, you can rent bicycles and follow the Shoreline pedestrian bike path 3.1 miles along the water, passing the Long Beach Museum of Art. The path ends at the tony Belmont Shore neighborhood. Here you’ll find restaurants and shops along 2nd street, Bay Shore Beach, the Belmont Pier, windsurfing and kite-surfing lessons, and even gondola rides through the canals of Naples, a neighborhood situated on islands in Alamitos Bay. Downtown, along 4th Street between Junipero and Cherry avenues, vintage furniture and clothing shops such as the Vintage Collective make up funky “Retro Row.” In the emergent East Village Arts District, hip galleries and boutiques are sprouting where Linden Avenue meets Broadway, while farther east, an impressive collection of modern and contemporary works decks the walls of the Museum of Latin American Art. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 109.

great find Fifty-six years ago, Hirota Masazumi’s father opened a cookware store in Tokyo’s Tsukiji fish market, where, through years of collaborating with chefs and craftsmen, Masazumi learned the value of quality materials and time-honed design. Today, Masazumi applies that knowledge to the Japanese cookware and utensils he chooses for Hitachiya, his small but exquisite shop in Torrance’s Rolling Hills Plaza. Serious chefs and lovers of handcrafted Japanese design, be warned: The shop’s selection of traditional iron kettles, hand-forged Japanese knives (which can be expertly sharpened and engraved on-site), metal graters, wooden steamers, horse-hair sieves and more may increase heart rate and loosen purse strings. 2509 W. Pacific Coast Highway, Torrance, 310.534.3136

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COUPLES IN THE KITCHEN IN some L.A. RESTAURANTS, cooking with love is more than just a cliché. By Roger Grody


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top left and right, emily hart; bottom left, rob stark photography


rofessional cooking can create considerable stress on a relationship. Chefs are never

home at a decent hour, rarely share holidays with their families and are constantly preoccupied with work. In L.A., a number of chefs appear to be overcoming the profession’s pitfalls by marrying and opening restaurants together. Those couples may face a new set of challenges, but one thing’s for sure: Nobody is ever left alone on Valentine’s Day.

“Working as a couple can be challenging,” Claudio says. “When you for many people, working in close quarters with their spouse would and your spouse have different jobs, you can leave work at work and create anything but matrimonial harmony, but for some chefs it not bring it home.” their demands are mitigated by splitting up ownerappears to work quite well. at critically acclaimed Hatfield’s, known ship responsibilities—Claudio’s specialty is food and wine, and adria for its innovative contemporary american cuisine, chef Quinn hatfield handles social media and public relations—between two restaurants. in orchestrates the savory end of the spectrum while pastry chef/wife 2009, seasoned restaurateur Claudio was anxious to open a restaurant karen handles the sweets. “karen and i spend all day together—and with adria, and debuted their first venue, Barbrix. taking two years to night,” says Quinn. “you would think it’s difficult to spend that much convert an old silver lake bungalow into a wine bar, they supported time with someone, but we completely trust each other with both busieach other on stressful days. “adria taught me never to give up,” says ness decisions and issues that impact our personal lives.” Claudio. his wife adds, “he says i’m the best partner he ever had!” Quinn’s progressive entrees might include date- and mint-crusted Cooks County showcases ingredients from a lengthy roster of lamb with potato-chive puree, or pan-roasted branzino with red onion farms, orchards and ranches printed on the daily-changing menu. soubise, sprinkled with an apricot-almond-crunch. for finales, karen among entrees, you might encounter grilled Columbia river salmon produces seductive desserts such as cinnamon swirl brioche bread with artichoke purée and meyer lemon relish. and sweets from Julpudding with maple syrup ice cream. “Working with your spouse is lapat—like her significant other, she’s an alum of Campanile, lucques always a bit tricky,” karen says. “sometimes, you need a bit of space and ammo—leave diners with a strong final impression. and a good old-fashioned date night far, far away from the restaurant.” brooke Williamson was one of the hottest young chefs in l.a. when the formula seems to be working. the hatfields have been cookshe opened amuse Cafe in Venice in 2003 with partner nick roberts. ing together for 15 years (they met in the kitchen at spago) and have now married, they operate a pair of gastropubs, hudson house (514 opened a breakfast-and-lunch concept, the sycamore kitchen (143 s. n. pacific Coast hwy., redondo beach, 310.798.9183) and the tripel la brea ave., l.a., 323.939.0151). it offers karen’s wide-ranging reper(333 Culver blvd., playa del rey, 310.821.0333). here, they apply toire of sweets, from oatmeal-brown butter scones to salted caramel sophisticated technique to menus devoid of pretension. representapecan babka rolls. you can also score a blt made with a slab of pretive of their playful dishes are spicy chicken drumettes with red curry, mium pork belly and a colorful salad of assorted beets. cauliflower fritters with aïoli, and a beer-battered, deep-fried twinkie. among the most prolific restaurateurs in l.a. are Josh loeb and “most couples struggle to spend time with each other, but we’ve Zoe nathan. they met when loeb, a promising restaurateur launching never had the experience of leaving your spouse for an entire work santa monica’s Rustic Canyon Wine Bar & Seasonal Kitchen, needed day or week,” says Williamson. “We understand each other’s crazy a pastry chef. nathan, who had honed her skills at places such as Joe’s lives,” adds her husband. Williamson, a recent Top Chef contestant, and bld in l.a., was certainly qualified. the couple, now married, first believes their healthy sense of competition makes them stronger expanded their burgeoning empire with huckleberry bakery & Cafe chefs. “When one of us is feeling uninspired or lazy, we always know (1014 Wilshire blvd., santa monica, 310.451.2311), followed by sweet there is someone to get the other back on track.” rose Creamery (225 26th st., santa monica, 310.260.2663), one of although they don’t work in the same kitchen, one of the most l.a.’s most acclaimed ice cream shops. at Milo & Olive (milo is the influential culinary couples in l.a. is suzanne goin and david lentz. name of their son), the couple turns out some of the best pizzas in goin is chef/co-owner of eateries including Lucques, the terrific wine town. “the best part of working together is getting to be together bar A.O.C., Tavern, and the larder at maple drive (345 n. maple as much as we do,” says loeb. “We know how to be helpful to each drive, beverly hills, 310.248.3779). husband lentz, meanwhile, is other, but we also know when to stay out of each other’s way.” the chef/owner of The Hungry Cat restaurants in hollywood, santa monicouple admits it can be a challenge to leave their problems at the ca and santa barbara, renowned for their raw bars. goin makes it clear restaurant. “it’s really important to come home and decompress, but that the couple respects each other’s creative space: it’s hard sometimes if one of us is worrying about someClockwise from top left: “We only collaborated at the very beginning of the hunthing at work,” says nathan, who is spending more time Zoe Nathan and Josh gry Cat, and that was just to tell david he should follow at home while writing her first cookbook. Loeb, chef-owners of four his heart and cook the food he wants to cook and eat.” mirroring the hatfield’s model is Cooks County, Santa Monica restaurants including Huckleberry While goin notes that she and her husband advise where chef daniel mattern and his girlfriend/pastry chef Bakery & Cafe; cupcakes each other behind the scenes, she is quick to point out, roxana Jullapat choreograph the farm-to-table experifrom Huckleberry; Nick Roberts and Brooke “i think the secret to the success of our marriage is that ence. this couple values their privacy, but another duo at Williamson of the Tripel in we don’t work together. We can come home to a sympaCooks County—husband-and-wife owners Claudio blotPlaya Del Rey and Hudson House in Redondo Beach; thetic ear that wasn’t involved personally in whatever the ta and adria tennor blotta—are more forthcoming. marbar at the Tripel; Little Gem other person’s drama was that day.” ried for six years, they met in 1999 at Campanile where salad at Suzanne Goin’s Tavern in Brentwood Claudio was managing partner and adria a waitress. For bold items, see listings in the where guide.


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Dining American


a/k/a an american bistro  Menu inspired by California wine country cuisine; 40 wines by the glass. Emphasis on house-made and house-cured ingredients in dishes such as PEI mussels with smoked Manila clams and house-made chorizo. L, D (daily).  One Colorado, 24 E. Union St., Pasadena, 626.564.8111 $$  Map Q19


ANIMAL  Bare-bones eatery, from the guys known as the “Two Dudes” to Food Network fans, is a carnivore’s dream. Think delectable takes on offal (such as crispy pig’s ear) and a bacon-chocolate crunch bar for dessert. D (nightly).  435 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.782.9225 $$$  Map I13 artisan house  Restaurant-bar-market-deli under one roof emphasizes products from local farms and artisan producers. Seasonal entrees include egg tartine, crispy grilled saltwater trout, various flatbreads; molecular mixology at the bar. Br (Sa–Su), L, D (M–Sa).  600 S. Main St., downtown, 213.622.6333 $$$  Map I6


Two Italian-cuisine whizzes— Paul Hibler, owner and creator of Pitfire Pizza, and chef Jason Neroni, formerly of Osteria la Buca—have collaborated to present Superba Snack Bar, Venice’s newest community gathering spot. Neroni— acclaimed for his handmade pastas—presents an array of noodles plus house-smoked meats and charcuterie, local cheeses and dishes featuring farmers market produce. “A snack bar is the kind of place you can drop by anytime with friends, or by yourself,” Neroni says. “We are striving for Superba Snack Bar to be that kind of place for locals and visitors; we want to offer something for everyone.” The cutting-edge space is courtesy of design firm Design, Bitches. p. 75

CRAFT  New York chef Tom Colicchio of TV’s Top Chef brings his signature concept to L.A. The restaurant delivers an endless, contemporary American à la carte menu, with fun, shareable dishes including roasted octopus with romesco and diver scallops with vermouth butter. L (M–F), D (M–Sa).  10100 Constellation Blvd., L.A., 310.279.4180 $$$$  Map K11 eveleigh  With a menu chockablock with farm-fresh veggies and meats and a country-chic space, Eveleigh projects an image of cool rusticity. The kitchen endeavors to use house-made ingredients right down to the apple gomme syrup in your cocktail and the brioche toast slices with your Jidori chicken liver pâté. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly).  8752 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 424.239.1630 $$  Map H12 Hard Rock Cafe  Hard Rock can be counted on for fun, indulgent fare such as pulled pork sandwiches, twisted mac, chicken & cheese and barbecued ribs. Memorabilia, artifacts and souvenirs from the on-site gift shop celebrate rock ‘n’ roll’s legends. L, D (daily).  Universal CityWalk, 1000 Universal Studios Blvd., Universal City, 818.622.7625; Hollywood & Highland Center, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.464.7625 $$  Map U19, H13 ink.  L.A.’s culinary darling du jour, Top Chef winner Michael Voltaggio, showcases daring, thoughtful molecular gastronomy at his first restaurant. Get a five-course tasting menu or explore à la carte small plates including tuna with dashi “sponge,” poutine with lamb neck gravy and chickpea fries, and brussels sprouts with pig ears and cuttlefish. D (nightly).  8360 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.651.5866 $$$  Map I12 IVY RESTAURANT  This is one of the entertainment industry’s favorite gathering spots; if your face isn’t well known, be prepared for a cool reception. American comfort food is often deconstructed to suit the celebrity clientele. L.A.: L, D (daily). Ivy at the Shore: B, L, D (daily), Br (Su).  113 N. Robertson Blvd., L.A., 310.274.8303; Ivy at the Shore, 1535 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.393.3113 $$$  Map I11, L8 Jar  Chef Suzanne Tracht presents an L.A. take on traditional, comforting American fare in a chic interpretation of an old-school chophouse. A meal might begin with crab-deviled eggs before moving on to the signature pot roast. Br (Su), D (nightly).  8225 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.655.6566 $$$  Map I12 m.b. post  Small plates of seafood, fresh-baked breads, cured meats and more in the space of a former post office. “Eat Your Vegetables” menu makes green beans, brussels sprouts and cauliflower look tantalizing. Br (Sa– Su), L (F), D (nightly).  1142 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5405 $$$  Map L13

Restaurants are listed by city on page 86. Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps in the back of this issue. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

American............................... 68 Breweries/Gastropubs..... 70 British...................................... 70 California................................ 70 Chinese................................... 70 Eclectic/Fusion.....................72 French.......................................72 Italian........................................73

Japanese.................................75 Mediterranean......................76 Mexican/Latin......................77 Pan-Asian...............................78 Seafood....................................78 Spanish....................................78 Steak.........................................78 Thai............................................78

Musso & Frank Grill  Hollywood’s oldest (1919). Enjoy flannel cakes, lobster Thermidor and Welsh rarebit with the martini; legend has it that this place invented the drink. B, L, D (Tu–Sa).  6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.467.7788 $$  Map H13 Noé  Visitors heading to the Museum of Contemporary Art or Walt Disney Concert Hall find Noé a convenient spot for a classy repaste. Noé executive chef Glen Ishii serves “neo-bistro” menu with Mediterranean turbot meunière with sauteed watercress and rigatoni with house-cured sausage. D (nightly).  Omni Hotel, 251 S. Olive St., downtown, 213.356.4100 $$  Map H16 the royce  Chef David Feau does molecular gastronomy and unconventional flavor combinations: lobster and pomegranate “hot and snow,” venison with plantain confit, porcini casserole with pear. D (Tu–Sa).  The Langham Huntington Hotel, 1401 S. Oak Knoll Ave., Pasadena, 626.585.6410 $$$$  Map S20 Saddle Peak Lodge  Nestled in the Santa Monica Mountains, this hunt-lodge-themed spot is a study in romantic rusticity, with moose heads overlooking candlelit tables. The menu focuses on game dishes such as seared New Zealand elk tenderloin or grilled Texas nilgai antelope. Br (Su), D (W–Su).  419 Cold Canyon Road, Calabasas, 818.222.3888 $$$$  Map northwest of A1 smitty’s Grill  Soul-warming American classics round out the menu here. Market-fresh fish, braised short rib and roast chicken are favorites. L (M–F), D (nightly).  110 S. Lake Ave., Pasadena, 626.792.9999 $$  Map R21 the strand house  This South Bay new-comer with awesome ocean views is sophisticated enough to compete with any restaurant in L.A. County’s hipper parts. House-made charcuterie precedes dishes such as hamachi crudo and lobster cavatelli. Blueberry glazed doughnuts end the meal with a bang. Br (Sa– Su), L (Tu–F), D (Tu–Su).  117 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.7470 $$$  Map L13 true food kitchen  Restaurant at Santa Monica Place offers health-conscious menu inspired by Dr. Andrew Weil’s diet principles. Several vegan and glutenfree options. Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily).  395 Santa Monica Place, Santa Monica, 310.593.8300 $  Map M8 umami burger  Hot specialty burger joint; try the signature Umami Burger with tempura onion rings. (No alcohol served at La Brea Avenue location.) L, D (daily).  4655 Hollywood Blvd., Los Feliz, 323.669.3922; 1520 Cahuenga Blvd., Hollywood, 323.469.3100; Fred Segal, 500 Broadway, Santa Monica, 310.451.1300; 850 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.931.3000; 12159 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.286.9004; additional locations at $  Map W22, H14, L8, J13, A2

Brrr! The VodBox at Nic’s in Beverly Hills is a walk-in freezer designed for tasting top-shelf vodkas. Faux fur coats are provided to patrons so they can ward off chills. p. 70




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W Hollywood • 6250 Hollywood Blvd. • 323.798.1355

801 S. Figueroa • 213.622.3255

“Super creative, extraordinary sushi.” – ZAGAT

Hollywood • Pasadena Santa Monica $3-5 HAPPY HOUR DAILY

8439 W. Sunset Blvd. West Hollywood

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Dining Fried olives and chickpeas at the Parish downtown

Rose Tree Cottage  Sweet, homey spot for English afternoon tea with gracious service from husband-andwife owners. Seatings at 1, 2:30 and 4 pm. Adjacent gift shop. High tea (Tu–Su).  801 S. Pasadena Ave., Pasadena, 626.793.3337 $$  Map R19 waterloo & City  Located on an unremarkable strip in Culver City is this surprisingly hip English gastropub dishing out house-made charcuterie, gourmet pizzas topped with green chorizo and Indian butter chicken, and spot-on cocktails. It’s certainly L.A.’s most sophisticated pub grub. D (nightly).  12517 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.391.4222 $$  Map M10 Ye Olde King’s Head  Pub/restaurant with cozy dining rooms, fish and chips, high tea, gift shop. B, L, D (daily), high tea (Sa).  116 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.451.1402 $  Map L8

California Cuisine vertical wine bistro  Seventy wines by the glass, more than 400 on the list. New American menu plus fun small plates, cheeses and charcuterie. D (Tu–Su).  70 N. Raymond Ave. (upstairs), Pasadena, 626.795.3999 $$$  Map Q19 wolfgang puck at the hotel bel-air  A favorite hideaway of Hollywood elite, the Hotel Bel-Air offers an indoor-outdoor retreat helmed by the father of California cuisine. Puck’s Cantonese roasted duck gets an L.A. twist with figs and fresh pea tendrils, while his take on wiener schnitzel with a marinated fingerling potato salad reminds diners of his Austrian heritage. B, D (daily), L (M–Sa), Br (Su), tea (F–Sa).  701 Stone Canyon Road, Bel-Air, 310.909.1644 $$$$  Map I10

Breweries/Gastropubs father’s office  Microbrew mecca; one of L.A.’s best burgers. Santa Monica: L (Sa–Su), D (nightly). Culver City: L (F–Su), D (nightly).  1018 Montana Ave., Santa Monica; Father’s Office 2, 3229 Helms Ave., Culver City. 310.736.2224 $$  Map L8, L11 haven gastropub + Brewery  L.A. importing an Orange County restaurant is rare, and so are the animals and exotic parts on Chef Greg Daniels’ menu, a love letter to meat. Begin with an appetizer of pork rillettes and end with red velvet beet cake. Many ingredients are house-made—even the truffle salt! L, D (daily).  42 S. De Lacey Ave., Pasadena, 626.768.9555 $$  Map Q19
 lazy ox canteen  With winning dishes such as crispy pig ear chicarrónes and fried Jidori hen, Lazy Ox’s cross-cultural gastropub-style offerings are always interesting. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly).  241 S. San Pedro St., Little Tokyo, 213.626.5299 $$  Map H17 public kitchen & Bar  Meat-heavy but still refined menu includes chicken liver terrine with strawberry-rhubarb marmalade sweetbreads; bar serves cured meats, cheeses and fresh, hand-crafted cocktails. Br (Su), L (M–F), D (nightly).  Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.466.7000 $$$  Map G13

British the parish  New. Chef Casey Lane, the 29-year-old wunderkind of the Tasting Kitchen and James Beard Award nominee, imagines a contemporary English gastropub with quality, seasonal ingredients. Small plates include poutine pigs’ feet, roasted bone marrow, fried frogs legs with jalapeño slaw, and stout grilled sausages with pickled cherries. D (nightly).  840 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.225.2400 $$$  Map I16

AKASHA  Chef-owner Akasha Richmond takes ecoconsciousness to new heights with sustainable décor and organic food ingredients “whenever possible.” The menu of comfort food includes humanely raised meats (e.g. Niman Ranch pork chops), but Richmond also does intriguing vegetarian plates. B, L (M–F), D (nightly).  9543 Culver Blvd., Culver City, 310.845.1700 $$  Map L11 Breeze  Creative “grill cuisine,” plus sushi bar. Fabulous desserts; distinctive décor. Reservation recommended. B, L, D (daily).  Hyatt Regency Century Plaza Hotel & Spa, 2025 Avenue of the Stars, Century City, 310.551.3334 $$$  Map J11 cafe 140 South  California cuisine gets hearty at the redesigned and renamed Crocodile Cafe. Woodfired oven pizzas, thick hand-formed bugers, oakwoodgrilled meats. L, D (daily).  140 S. Lake Ave., Pasadena, 626.449.9900 $$  Map R21 Chaya  The original Chaya in Japan remains open after 390 years, and Chaya’s popularity endures in Los Angeles, too. The Japanese-accented French/ Italian menus are accomplished and innovative. L (M–F), D (nightly).  8741 Alden Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.859.8833; 525 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.236.9577; 110 Navy St., Venice, 310.396.1179 $$  Map I11, H16, M8 cooks county  The owners of Silver Lake’s beloved Barbrix open another winner. An edited menu of pastas, seafood, braised and slow-roasted meats, and simple starters lists the dozens of family farms from which the restaurant sources. The kitchen makes many of its own ingredients, down to condiments and cured meats. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly).  8009 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.653.8009 $$  Map I12 Eva restaurant  Patina Group alum Mark Gold graciously serves creative, affordable Cal fare in intimate dining room. Family-style, prix fixe dinner on Sundays. Br (Su), L (F), D (W–Sa).  7458 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.634.0700 $$  Map I13

sashimi, prosciutto and quail egg, or Karen’s heavenly sugar-and-spice beignets. D (nightly).  6703 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.935.2977 $$$  Map I13 mar’sel  Sustainable menu with produce and herbs from chef’s on-site garden. Overlooks sparkling peninsula. D (W–Su).  Terranea Resort, 100 Terranea Way, Rancho Palos Verdes, 310.265.2836 $$$$  Map O13 milo & Olive  The husband-and-wife team behind Rustic Canyon opens a tiny, casual pizzeria and bakery. Expect to make friends with your neighbors; seating is communal tables and bar only. Zoe Nathan’s desserts and pastries shouldn’t be missed. B, L, D (daily).  2723 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.453.6776 $$  Map K9 Nic’s  Sleek restaurant with glass-walled VodBox kept at 10 degrees for vodka and caviar sampling (furs provided), millions of martinis. D (nightly).  453 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.443.8211 $$  Map I11 Parkway Grill  Handsome dining room; one of Pasadena’s best restaurants. Diverse menu includes tiger shrimp corndogs, prosciutto-and-arugula pizza, duck breast with cherry reduction. L (M–F), D (nightly).  510 S. Arroyo Pkwy., Pasadena, 626.795.1001 $$$  Map N16 Polo Lounge  Legendary celeb watering hole. McCarthy salad is a perennial favorite; great people watching. Reservation recommended. B, D (daily), L (M–Sa), Br (Su).  Beverly Hills Hotel, 9641 Sunset Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.887.2777 $$$  Map I11 Spago Beverly Hills  Wolfgang Puck’s flagship restaurant is remodeled and reimagined on the heels of its 30th anniversary. Among changes are a refreshingly modern dining room and small-plate offerings of barbecued sting ray with spicy sambal, and Santa Barbara spot prawns with suckling pig and hachiya persimmons. Glimpse some of the 30,000 wine bottles on offer in a glass-ensconced “wine wall.” L (M–Sa), D (nightly).  176 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.385.0880 $$$  Map I11 tar & Roses  Ex-Wilshire Restaurant chef Andrew Kirschner’s first restaurant focuses on small, rustic shareable plates cooked in his wood-burning oven, but with a few days’ notice he can also whip up large, lavish familystyle suppers of Moroccan-spiced goat or standing rib rack. D (Tu–Su).  602 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.587.0700 $$$  Map L8 THE tasting kitchen  Hipster foodies come for the daily changing menu of innovative yet unpretentious cuisine from new culinary darling chef Casey Lane: small or large plates of cured meats, artisan cheeses, vegetables, seafood and pastas. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly).  1633 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.392.6644 $$$  Map M9 tavern  Chef Suzanne Goin’s third L.A. restaurant explores rustic Cal fare in chic environs, including a popular sunlit indoor patio. The frequently changing menu might include “devil’s chicken” with leeks and mustard breadcrumbs or Arctic char with orange-fennel salad. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su).  11648 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.806.6464 $$$  Map J9

farmshop  Cheery bakery and restaurant with a killer brunch—try salmon rillettes with caper berries and toasted rye. Three-course family-style dinners are served nightly, with the restaurant’s famous fried chicken the star of the meal on Sundays. B, L (M–F), Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly).  Brentwood Country Mart, 225 26th St., Santa Monica, 310.566.2400  $$  Map K8

208 Rodeo  Café spills onto cobblestone via at luxe Two Rodeo. A gem. Pan-Asian, French influences. B, L, D (daily).  Two Rodeo, 208 Via Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.275.2428 $$  Map J11

Geoffrey’s  Prettiest patio in paradise? Offers 180-degree Pacific views; creative seafood. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly).  27400 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.457.1519 $$$  Map northwest of K7

CBS Seafood  Fine dim sum in a setting not quite so huge as others in Chinatown or Monterey Park. B, L, D (daily).  700 N. Spring St., Chinatown, 213.617.2323 $$  Map G17

hatfield’s  Husband-and-wife chef team Quinn and Karen Hatfield combine their talents in the savory and sweet departments, respectively. Guests might dine on Quinn’s reinvented croque madame with yellowtail

Mr. Chow  L.A. edition of sceney restaurants in New York and London. Imperial Beijing cuisine. L (M–F), D (nightly).  344 N. Camden Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.278.9911 $$$  Map I11



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Exclusively British

Dining ocean seaFood Vast and boisterous spot serves amazing array of traditional dishes, superfresh seafood, top-of-the-line dim sum. B, L, D (daily). 750 N. Hill St., Chinatown, 213.687.3088 $$ Map G17

Eclectic/Fusion a-Frame Roy Choi, whose Kogi launched a thousand food trucks, offers a bizarro comfort-food menu (beer-can chicken, furikake kettle corn) with Korean influences. List of craft beers and signature cocktails. L (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 12565 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.398.7700 $$ Map M10 asia de cuba Innovative Pan-Asian/Cuban menu at Mondrian hotel. Beautiful patio outside, chic white-onwhite décor inside. Artisan cocktails, ceviches and other raw bar dishes are new to the menu. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). 8440 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.8999 $$$ Map H12 bÄco mercat Sizzling hot chef Josef Centeno has drawn international praise for his uniquely inspired creations. The bäco, a flatbread sandwich filled with ingredients such as oxtail hash or chicken escabeche, is his signature dish. Other selections on the diverse menu include buttermilk-fried quail and spicy hamachi crudo. L, D (daily). 408 S. Main St., downtown, 213.687.8808 $$ Map I16

Rose Tree Cottage A Regal English Afternoon Tea

caFe sierra Cal–Continental-Chinese menu, Vegasstyle dinner buffet and entertainment. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). Hilton Universal City, 555 Universal Hollywood Drive, Universal City, 818.509.2030 $$ Map U19

Barbour Clothing • AGA Cookers • Teas • Foods • China

the gorbaLs It’s low on ambience, with a shabbyquirky dining room, but the Gorbals’ Scottish/Jewish/ Spanish/American fare—from Top Chef winner Ilan Hall—is supercreative. D (M–Sa). Alexandria Hotel, 501 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.488.3408 $$ Map I16

Voted by USA Today as one of the top tea experiences in America.

by reservation

801 S. Pasadena Ave. • Pasadena 626-793-3337  •

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gordon ramsaY The tyrant from TV’s Hell’s Kitchen arrives in L.A. to demonstrate why he has racked up more than a dozen Michelin stars. The restaurant is a hip setting in which to enjoy eclectically inspired dishes. Boxwood Café is adjacent. D (nightly). London West Hollywood, 1020 N. San Vicente Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.358.7788 $$$$ Map H11

1020 n. SAn Vicente BlVd

8/7/12 2:34 PM

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maison akira Fine French cuisine with Japanese flair (such as a bento box with Kobe beef, miso sea bass and chawanmushi) in Pasadena’s playhouse district. Tencourse omakase available. Br (Su), L (F), D (Tu–Su). 713 E. Green St., Pasadena, 626.796.9501 $$$ Map Q20 sunnY spot New. Food-truck pioneer Roy Choi interprets Carribbean cuisine with explosive flavors and global influences. Playful small plates include “What a Jerk” chicken wings and the “We Be Yammin’ ” sweet-potato tart plus sweet-and-salty fried plantains and a pineapple pork chop with Red Stripe beer glaze. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 822 Washington Blvd., Venice, 310.448.8884 $$ Map N9 umamicatessen The minds behind Umami Burger have created a dining-hall-style format with six eateries under one roof. Aside from Umami Burger are the Cure, inspired by kosher deli fare; chef Chris Cosentino’s Pigg, shilling all things pork; Spring for Coffee espresso bar; & a Doughnut, serving made-to-order doughnuts; and the Back Bar, serving cocktails and beers. L, D (daily). 852 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.413.8626 $ Map I16

BRilliAnt cuiSine

French bouchon The Bouchon bistros from chef Thomas Keller (the French Laundry, Per Se) have become popular for their authentic good looks and superbly executed cuisine. One might begin with salmon rillettes followed by poulet rôti or a croque madame. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (daily). 235 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.271.9910 $$$ Map J11

S AV O R e x q u i S i t e c u i S i n e f R O m t h e c u l i n A R y t e A m O f G O R d O n R A m S Ay

For reservations, call 310.358.7788 or visit us at

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“CHEF RICHARD SANDOVAL... the most successful latin chef in the world today.” hombre "GO TO SPOT" angeleno rooftop bar & lounge overlooking promenade happy hour | lunch | dinner | brunch santa monica place | 310.899.1000 |

cheval blanc bistro  The Smith Brothers (Smitty’s Grill, Arroyo Chophouse) take on the classics of French bistro fare—bouillabaisse, steak frites, coq au vin. Br (Su), D (Wu–Su).  41 S. DeLacey Ave., Pasadena, 626.577.4141 $$$  Map Q19 church & State  Located in the historic Biscuit Co. Lofts, this downtown eatery has a hip clientele—downtown residents and commuters waiting out rush hour—who crowd the dining room or linger on the patio to soak up the vibe of an authentic French brasserie. L (M–F), D (nightly).  1850 Industrial St., downtown, 213.405.1434 $$  Map J17 COMME ÇA  Chef David Myers has turned his attention to more casual French fare at this inviting brasserie with a sophisticated modern aesthetic. All the classics are here, including tarte flambé, escargot, coq au vin, bouillabaisse and duck confit. Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily).  8479 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.782.1104 $$  Map I12 delphine  Just off the soaring lobby of the chic W Hollywood Hotel & Residences, demure Delphine establishes a laid-back ambience with vintage photo murals and wood barreled ceilings. Chef Sascha Lyon’s entrees include braised short ribs with roasted root vegetables. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su).  W Hollywood, 6250 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.798.1355 $$$  Map H13 Kendall’s Brasserie  Located at the Music Center, Kendall’s is a convenient spot before or after a performance. In addition to dishes with a contemporary flair, all the brasserie favorites are here: fruits de mer, moules frites and braised lamb shank. L (daily), D (Tu–Su; M varies).  135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7322 $$  Map H16 maison giraud  Alain Giraud’s simple neighborhood restaurant dishes out classic bistro fare and specialties influenced by Alsace and his native Provence; wife Catherine runs the adjacent home-goods boutique, Lavender Blue. B, L, D (daily).  1032 Swarthmore Ave., Pacific Palisades, 310.459.7561 $$$  Map K7 Mélisse  At Mélisse, consistently among L.A.’s highestrated restaurants, chef-owner Josiah Citrin executes a sophisticated modern French menu filled with luxe ingredients. Start with lobster bolognese with black truffles before superb game dishes and selections from a nonpareil cheese cart. D (Tu–Sa).  1104 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.395.0881 $$$$  Map M8 Patina  The Walt Disney Concert Hall is a winning composition of impressive classical music offerings and fine dining at its in-house restaurant, Patina. Game dishes are a frequent presence on the menu, such as wood pigeon with yams, celeriac and pear. D (Tu–Sa).  141 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.3331 $$$$  Map H17 Petrossian  Chef Giselle Wellman works with the brand’s signature caviar in creative ways. Highlights include caviar- and roe-topped blinis, vanilla panna cotta with espresso “caviar” (actually tapioca). B, L (daily), D (M–Sa).  321 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.271.6300 $$$  Map J12

Italian CHEF RICHARD SANDOVAL “Best Mexican Food Chef” Huffington Post “Father of Modern Mexican Cuisine” Financial Times

Outdoor Patio Overlooking Promenade Open Air Dining Room All Night Happy Hour | Taco Tuesday | Guacamole Festival Lunch | Dinner | Brunch Santa Monica Place | 310.393.3300 |

Angelini Osteria  Hardly elegant or romantic, this is nonetheless one of L.A.’s premier Italian restaurants. Chef-owner Gino Angelini demonstrates remarkable range and finesse, from sea-salt-crusted whole branzino to the heavenly lasagna in herb sauce he inherited from his grandmother. Reservation required for dinner, recommended for lunch. L (Tu–F), D (Tu–Su).  7313 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.297.0070 $$$  Map I13 bottega louie  This palatial Italian restaurant, decked out in minimalist white marble, is a hip, noisy hall where young professionals and downtown hipsters convene over brick-oven-cooked pizzas and share small plates of portobello fries and clams casino. There’s a wee gourmet market and patisserie, too. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly).  700 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.802.1470 $$  Map I16


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Dining buca di beppo  Heaping, family-style portions. Call for hours.  80 W. Green St., Pasadena, 626.792.7272; 17500 Ventura Blvd., Encino, 818.995.3288; 1670 S. Pacific Coast Hwy., Redondo Beach, 310.540.3246; 1000 Universal Studios Blvd., Universal City, 818.509.9463; for more locations. $$  Map Q21, A1, M14, U20 Capo  Restaurateur Bruce Marder’s intimate treasure on the coast, near Santa Monica Pier. Fabulous wine list. D (Tu–Sa).  1810 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.394.5550 $$$$  Map L8 cecconi’s  This London-based restaurant caters to a well-heeled clientele who come to schmooze over bellinis and ciccheti (small plates). Pastas including a beautiful artichoke tortelli and seafood such as grilled octopus with capers are well executed. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su).  8764 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 310.432.2000 $$$  Map I12 Cicada  This art deco jewel is a perfect specialoccasion spot. Diners enter through magnificent Lalique doors into a room with gold-leaf ceilings and a grand staircase. The modern Italian cooking includes creations such as grilled lamb with apple tempura and horseradish sauce. D (W–F).  617 S. Olive St., downtown, 213.488.9488 $$$  Map I16 culina  A contemporary take on regional Italian cuisine is the theme at Culina, where ample coastal inspirations are evident on the menu. The modern design includes a sleek crudo bar and an impressive 25-foot chandelier. B (daily), L (M–Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su).  Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 300 S. Doheny Drive, L.A., 310.860.4000 $$$  Map J12 dominick’s  Retro Rat Pack vibe inside, airy brick patio with herb garden outside. Intriguing takes on the old favorites: linguine with lemon and chanterelles, wood-grilled burger with crispy speck and burrata. D (nightly).  8715 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.652.2335 $$  Map I12


World Famous British Pub, Restaurant & Shoppe

drago centro  Celestino Drago’s executed Italian fare—garganelli with pork sausage and fennel seeds, truffle-crusted Jidori chicken—and extensive wine list in a contemporary and handsome space. L (M–F), D (nightly).  525 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.228.8998 $$$  Map H16 GUSTO  Former Culina chef Vic Casanova opens an intimate neighborhood ristorante with a look and feel remniscent of his native Bronx. Dishes such as polpette (pork meatballs) plated over chilled whipped ricotta, baccalà (salt cod) croquettes and fresh-made pastas deserve praise. D (nightly).  8432 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.782.1778 $$  Map I12 Il Fornaio  Trattoria-style favorites; adjoining bakeries offer pastries, sandwiches to take out. Beverly Hills: B, L, D (daily). Manhattan Beach: Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). Santa Monica: Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). Pasadena: Br (Su), L, D (daily).  301 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.550.8330; 1800 Rosecrans Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.725.9555; 1551 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.451.7800; 1 Colorado, Pasadena, 626.683.9797 $$  Map J11, L13, L8, Q19

British Fare, imported beers and world famous Fish & Chips. Open for breakfast weekends at 8am, Fabulous happy hour Mon–Fri 4-7pm. Traditional Afternoon Tea is served Saturdays 2-5pm. Karaoke Sundays at 9pm. Heated patio. Quiz shows every Wednesday. Call for soccer schedule. Stop by the gift shoppe for food and collectibles from the British Isles, including bone china, teapots, souvenir items, tea, candy, wine, cheese and much more.

matteo’s  An old favorite of the Rat Pack endures. Burrata campana salad, mussels in white wine, ossobuco Milanese. D (Tu–Su).  2321 Westwood Blvd., L.A., 310.475.4521 $$  Map K10 OSTERIA DRAGO  Prolific restaurateur/chef and Sicilian native Celestino Drago opens another outpost serving his reliably delicious and comforting cuisine. Shellfish with a citrus vinaigrette is served atop a smooth sea urchin panna cotta, while a raviolo stuffed with ricotta and egg yolk is topped with truffles. L (M–F), D (nightly).  8741 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 310.657.1182 $$$  Map H12

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Dining osteria mozza Famed L.A.-based bread maker Nancy Silverton teamed up with affable Mario Batali on Mozza’s duo of contemporary Italian restaurants. Osteria Mozza is a more sophisticated dining room in which to experience the repertoire of these great transcontinental talents. D (nightly). 6602 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.0100 $$$ Map H13 paparazzi ristorante Contemporary Italian, steaks and comforting sides. D (M–Sa). Sheraton Gateway Hotel, 6101 Century Blvd., Westchester, 310.642.4820 $$ Map O11



IRVINE 2000 MAIN ST. (949) 756-0505

LOS ANGELES 4TH & HOPE (213) 629-1929

EL SEGUNDO 2101 ROSECRANS AVE. (310) 416-1123

PASADENA 111 N. LOS ROBLES (626) 405-0064

ANAHEIM 321 WEST KATELLA AVE. (714) 535-9000

BEVERLY HILLS 206 NORTH RODEO DR. (310) 859-0434

pizzeria mozza The other half of Nancy Silverton and Mario Batali’s Mozza, Pizzeria Mozza is a more relaxed dining experience, and it’s far easier to get a table than at its sibling, Osteria Mozza, next door. It features pizzas with Mediterranean ingredients, cheeses and salumi plates, and rustic daily specials. L, D (daily). 641 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.297.0101 $$ Map H13 scarpetta Scott Conant’s much-lauded NYC-based concept is replicated at the Montage Beverly Hills hotel. Conant is deservedly famous for dishes such as a simple, unbeatable spaghetti with tomato and basil. Br (Su), D (nightly). 225 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.860.7970 $$$ Map I11 soLeto trattoria & pizza bar New. Contemporary Southern Italian in spacious, warehouse-chic environs. Antipasti such as grilled oyster mushrooms sprinkled white with truffle oil precede gourmet pizzas (potatoand-bacon, spicy smoked speck) and pastas accented with house-made sausages. L (M–F), D (M–Sa). 801 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.622.3255 $$ Map I16 sotto Contemporary southern Italian in a subterranean space. Start with the blistered Little Gem lettuce with breadcrumbs and aged caprino sardo; move on to whole grilled orata or house-made casarecce with soft-boiled egg and lamb ragù. A half-dozen pizzas, too. L (W–F), D (Tu–Su). 9575 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.277.0210 $$$ Map J11 superba snack bar New. At Jason Neroni and Paul Hibler’s pastaria, house-made noodles are given the most attention, occasionally smoked and infused for maximum flavor. A short wine list includes only California labels, and a selection of beer- and wine-based cocktails is available. Reservations available for parties of six or more only. Br (Sa–Su), L (F), D (nightly). 533 Rose Ave., Venice, 310.399.6400 $$$ Map M8 tra di noi Mainstay restaurant at the Malibu Country Mart; pastas made in-house daily. L, D (daily). 3835 Cross Creek Road, Malibu, 310.456.0169 $$$ Map K7 vaLentino For more than 30 years, Piero Selvaggio has maintained his flagship’s status as a preeminent temple of Italian gastronomy. A telephone-book-sized wine list—often cited as America’s best—is supported by a cellar containing more than 100,000 bottles. L (F), D (M–Sa). 3115 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.829.4313 $$$$ Map L9

Japanese benihana This restaurant sees teppanyaki chefs slicing and dicing at each table and grilling up simple fare such as tender steak and chicken, savory vegetables, and shrimp and lobster, which is delivered sizzling to diners’ plates. Encino: L, D (daily). Beverly Hills: L, D (daily). Torrance: L, D (daily). Santa Monica: L, D (daily). 38 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 323.655.7311; 1447 4th St., Santa Monica, 310.260.1423; Encino, 818.788.7121; Torrance, 310.316.7777 $$ Map I12, L8, G9, M14 katsuYa Sushi chef Katsuya Uechi turns out exotic delicacies in sultry spaces by designer Philippe Starck. From signature cocktails to king crab cooked over the robata grill to exotically flavored crème brûlées, Katsuya is never bor-


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Dining ing. L (varies by location), D (nightly). Downtown: D (nightly). 11777 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.207.8744; 6300 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.871.8777; 702 Americana Way, Glendale, 818.244.5900; L.A. Live, 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.747.9797 $$$ Map K9, H14, northeast of T23, I15 katsu-Ya Top sushi bar along the Valley’s Sushi Row; no-frills décor. Expect a crowd. Studio City: L (M–Sa), D (nightly). Encino: L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 11680 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.985.6976; 16542 Ventura Blvd., Encino, 818.788.2396 $$ Map U18, A1 matsuhisa Superchef Nobu Matsuhisa’s more modest original flagship incorporates luxurious Western ingredients and Latin American spices. Monkfish liver pâté with caviar and Chilean sea bass with truffles are just a couple of his creations. L (M–F), D (nightly). 129 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.659.9639 $$$$ Map I12 nobu The glitzy flagship of Nobu Matsuhisa attracts celebrities as well as serious foodies. An extensive menu of traditional and avant-garde sushi includes many dishes with beguiling Peruvian accents. Sakes and omakase feasts result in soaring tabs, but the cuisine measures up. D (nightly). 903 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.5711; Nobu Malibu, 22706 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.317.9140 $$$$ Map H12, east of A1 sugarFish Kazunori Nozawa—aka the “Sushi Nazi,” chef/owner of Studio City’s famed former Sushi Nozawa—opens a cheery, casual spot offering preset menus. Tips are included, but prices are about half those at the original. L, D (daily). 47221/4 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey, 310.306.6300; 11640 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.820.4477; 600 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.627.3000; 1345 2nd St., Santa Monica, 310.393.3338 $$ Map N9, K9, I16, L8 sushi roku Nouvelle Japanese, sleek décor. Creative menu includes albacore tacos, salmon sashimi with black truffles shaved tableside. L.A.: L (M–Sa), D (nightly). Santa Monica and Pasadena: L, D (daily). 8445 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.655.6767; 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.4771; 33 Miller Alley, Pasadena, 626.683.3000 $$$ Map I12, L8, Q19 sushi sasabune Don’t ask for a California or spicy tuna roll—you’ll be swiftly denied—but do expect incredibly fresh, authentically prepared sushi. The impressive omakase is recommended. L (M–F), D (M–Sa). 12400 Wilshire Blvd., West L.A., 310.820.3596 $$$$ Map K9 urasawa If you’re serious about sushi, make a date to sit at the maple bar of Urasawa. Here you’ll be treated to an incredible omakase dinner—don’t even ask about price—that features the freshest, most artfully presented sushi, sashimi and shabu-shabu dishes. Reservation required. D (Tu–Sa). 218 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.247.8939 $$$$ Map I11

Mediterranean aoc Explore a Mediterranean-inspired menu at the eatery that pioneered two L.A. culinary trends: the smallplates format and the wine bar. Chef-owner Suzanne Goin offers addictive bacon-wrapped, Parmesan-stuffed dates and an excellent selection of cheeses and cured meats from a charcuterie bar. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 8022 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.653.6359 $$ Map I12 barbrix Of the small-plate eateries, this restaurant, in a converted schoolhouse, is one of the best. Solo diners eat at the bar while couples relax on a charming patio and revelers toast near an exhibition kitchen. Among the standouts are pappardelle with pork and pancetta ragú. D (nightly). 2442 Hyperion Ave., Silver Lake, 323.662.2442 $$$ Map east of W23 ca’brea Chef-owner Antonio Tommasi offers excellent Northern Italian fare. L (M–F), D (M–Sa). 346 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.938.2863 $$$ Map J13


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Dining caFe deL reY Ogle impressive pleasure boats in the marina at this waterfront restaurant with plentiful fresh catch and a raw bar. Br (Su), L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 4451 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey, 310.823.6395 $$$ Map N9 cLeo The SBE group’s noisy mezze bar is an unquestionable high point of the Hollywood dining scene. Chef Daniel Elmaleh’s eastern and southern Mediterranean small plates include kebabs of pork belly and blood sausage and wood-burned flatbreads. Cocktails are expensive but irresistible. D (nightly). The Redbury, 1717 Vine St., Hollywood, 323.962.1711 $$$ Map H14 gJeLina Under the direction of talented young chef Travis Lett, hipster servers in T-shirts and newsboy caps serve seasonal Cal-Med small plates and pizzas to chic Westsiders. It’s one of Venice’s most popular restaurants and the neighborhood’s most lively patio. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1429 $$ Map N9 LucQues Chef-owner Suzanne Goin delivers the next generation of California cuisine, which includes dishes such as turmeric-spiced root vegetable tagine, and grilled club steak for two with potatoes parisienne. Nowhere do vegetables taste as good! L (Tu–Sa), D (nightly). 8474 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.655.6277 $$$ Map I13 petros Fine contemporary Greek fare in a cool white dining room or on the covered patio. Dress code for indoor diners. L, D (daily). 451 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.4100 $$$ Map L13 raY’s & stark bar Petite, Renzo Piano–designed eatery at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. Contemporary Med-inspired cuisine including vegetables cooked in wood-burning oven. Adjacent Stark Bar offers designer cocktails on an outdoor patio. L, D (Th–Tu). 5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.857.6180 $$ Map J13

Mexican/Latin border griLL At Border Grill, chefs Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger combine their unabashed love for Mexico’s market vendors, home cooks and taco stands. The result: bold, fresh and innovative Mexican cuisine. The downtown location offers a free shuttle to L.A. Live and the Music Center. Santa Monica: Br (Sa– Su), L, D (daily). Downtown: L (M–F), D (nightly). 1445 4th St., Santa Monica, 310.451.1655; 445 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.486.5171 $$ Map L8, H16 1810 An eclectic menu features specialties from the Americas and Italy—everything from Argentine sausage to sauteed zucchini, plus some reasonably priced steaks—in casual, brick-clad environs. L, D (daily). 121 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.795.5658 $$ Map Q20 Frida Stylish alta cocina Mexicana. Highlights include a mole tasting platter, a multitude of tacos and traditional cochinita pibil. L, D (daily). 236 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.278.7666; 750 Americana Way, Glendale, 818.551.1666 $$$ Map I11, southeast of T23 maLo Más Malo combines architectural splendor—it’s in a restored 1920s building—with 21st-century, Mexico City-meets-L.A. décor and cuisine. The original Malo in Silver Lake is less glam, but also hip. Malo: Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). Más Malo: Br (Sa-Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 4326 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.664.1011; 515 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.985.4332 $$ Map south of W23, I16 mo-chica The Peruvian food-court stand that earned Ricardo Zarate the title of Best New Chef from Food & Wine is reinvented as a fine-dining destination. Comfortfood small plates populate the menu; check out the traditional lomo saltado or the alpaca stew topped with a fried egg. D (M–Sa). Mercado la Paloma, 3655 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.747.2141 $ Map K15


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Dining Seafood


bLue pLate oYsterette Oceanfront cafe offers a very respectable lobster roll (served with mayo or butter) and other New England specialties, plus a variety of seasonal oysters. L, D (daily). 1355 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.576.3474 $$ Map L8

bLt steak This winning formula on the Sunset Strip proves that the French bistro and the American steakhouse can be seamlessly blended. After appetizers such as tuna tartare or the complimentary Gruyère cheese popovers, steaks are the main attraction, ranging from ultrapricey Kobe to domestic Angus beef. D (Tu–Sa). 8720 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.360.1950 $$$$ Map H12

gLadstone’s maLibu One of SoCal’s biggest hits with a million visitors each year. Dramatic ocean views. B (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). 17300 Pacific Coast Hwy., Pacific Palisades, 310.454.3474 $$ Map west of K7 the hungrY cat East Coast fare in hip little spots. Dungeness crab benedict; you-peel or they-peel shrimp by the half-pound. Hollywood: Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). Santa Monica: D (nightly). Sunset+Vine, 1535 N. Vine St., Hollywood, 323.462.2155; 100 W. Channel Road, Santa Monica, 310.459.3337 $$ Map H14, L7 picca Ricardo Zarate’s second Peruvian restaurant has grand ambitions and a Japanese twist, with a more dressed-up dining room and larger menu featuring small plates of ceviches, tiraditos, anticuchos and Peruvian-style sushi. Mezzanine bar serves pisco cocktails. D (M–Su). 9575 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.277.0133 $$ Map J11

the Lobster Enjoy a view of the Pacific while indulging in superlative seafood from this Santa Monica Pieradjacent restaurant. The outdoor patio is most coveted for sampling the eponymous crustacean in various iterations. Chef Collin Crannell does a fine job with other seafood dishes, too. L, D (daily). 1602 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.9294 $$$ Map L8

pLaYa “Urban Latin” small plates from chef John Sedlar. Tapas include maize cakes with fillings such as shrimp, Napa cabbage and mustard ice cream; flower-inlaid tortillas are a Sedlar signature. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 7360 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.933.5300 $$ Map I13

mccormick & schmick’s Classy wood, glass and brass space; seafood any way you like it. Happy hour. L (varies by location), D (nightly). 206 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.859.0434; 111 N. Los Robles Ave., Pasadena, 626.405.0064; 633 W. 5th St., downtown, 213.629.1929; 2101 Rosecrans Ave., El Segundo, 310.416.1123 $$ Map Q19, I11, H16, L13

red o Rick Bayless, one of the leading authorities on Mexican cuisine in America, is consulting chef at this sexy, transporting Melrose eatery. Many of his thoughtful dishes are grounded in tradition, such as Pacific sole and Mazatlan blue shrimp ceviches and cochinita pibil. Br (Su), D (nightly). 8155 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.655.5009 $$$ Map I12

parkers’ Lighthouse This casually elegant restaurant’s waterfront location affords 360-degree views of Long Beach Harbor. Menu offerings include a wide selection of seafood—stuffed Atlantic salmon, Alaskan king crab legs, inventive sushi—plus traditional chophouse fare such as USDA Prime steaks. L, D (daily). 435 Shoreline Village Drive, Long Beach, 562.432.6500 $$ Map N16

rivera Chef John Sedlar showcases his flair for pan-Latin flavors and attention to detail; consider the housemade nixtamal tortillas inlaid with edible flowers or plates with designs stenciled in spices. A pioneer of the cocktail movement, Rivera has an unbeatable tequila bar. L (M–F), D (nightly). 1050 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.749.1460 $$$ Map I16

providence Chef-owner Michael Cimarusti transforms seafood from the world’s most pristine waters into inventive dishes such as kampachi with miso, buttermilk and green grapes, and striped bass with bacon and Bordelaise sauce. Outstanding cocktails complement Michelin-recognized cuisine. L (F), D (nightly). 5955 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.460.4170 $$$$ Map I14


son oF a gun Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, the meatloving chefs at Animal, turn to the sea for new inspiration. They cook up small shareable plates such as salmon collar, miniature lobster rolls and shrimp toast sandwiches in a nautically themed space. L (M–F), D (nightly). 8370 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.782.9033 $$$ Map I12

Lukshon Sang Yoon of Father’s Office opens a slick Southeast Asian eatery with a selection of craft beers and Far East-inspired cocktail program. L (Tu–F), D (M–Sa). 3239 Helms Ave., Culver City, 310.202.6808 $$$ Map K12 red medicine The progressive Vietnamese restaurant doesn’t hew to traditions, but the results are intriguing—and visually delicious—presentations. The menu also includes some Pan-Asian dishes such as chicken dumplings, green papaya salad and lamb belly with hoisin sauce. Open late. D (nightly). 8400 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 323.651.5500 $$$ Map J12

water griLL Downtown’s premier seafood restaurant is famed for its huge platters of fruits de mer from the oyster bar. Low-temperature cooking methods are used in dishes such as sauteed Columbia River sturgeon, yielding sensational results. There’s no corkage fee, so why not BYOB? L (M–F), D (nightly). 544 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.891.0900 $$$$ Map H16

boa Way hip, way fine steakhouse. Steak rubs and dips; out-there cocktails. Santa Monica: L, D (daily). West Hollywood: L (M–F), D (nightly). 101 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.899.4466; 9200 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.278.2050 $$$ Map M8, H11 cut A collaboration between Getty Center architect Richard Meier and celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck, Cut is the place to savor genuine Kobe beef steaks ($120-plus) or dry-aged Nebraska beef. Puck’s menu is short on nostalgia but long on flavor. D (M–Sa). Beverly Wilshire Hotel, 9500 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.276.8500 $$$$ Map J11 the griLL on the aLLeY The Grill is a venerable industry hangout, where the maître d’ juggles Hollywood heavyweights, each demanding his favorite table for dealmaking lunches. Polished waiters deliver steaks, Cobb salads and chicken pot pies in a dining room with classic good looks. Beverly Hills: L (M–Sa), D (nightly). Hollywood: L, D (daily), Br (Su). Thousand Oaks: L, D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.276.0615; The Grill on Hollywood, Hollywood & Highland Center, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.856.5530; 120 E. Promenade Way, Thousand Oaks, 805.418.1760 $$$ Map I11, H13, north of A10 mastro’s steakhouse Swanky “steakhouse with personality.” Bone-in-filet reigns; warm butter cake melts in your mouth. New Penthouse at Mastro’s is an upstairs lounge. D (nightly). 246 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.888.8782 $$$ Map J11 nick & steF’s A modern interpretation of the classic American steakhouse, Nick & Stef’s offers architecturally exciting dining rooms and a wraparound patio lounge that’s a favorite of downtown workers waiting out traffic. USDA Prime beef is aged on-site in a glass-encased aging chamber. L (M–F), D (nightly). Wells Fargo Building, 330 S. Hope St., downtown, 213.680.0330 $$$ Map H16 the stinking rose “We season our garlic with food,” from Gartini cocktail to garlic ice cream. 40-Clove Garlic Chicken, Silence of the Lamb Shank, Vladimir’s Garlic “Stakes” menu with six steak options. L, D (daily). 55 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.652.7673 $$ Map I12 stk Sultry steakhouse for the young crowd, with fun appetizers such as shrimp “rice krispies” and Wagyu beef sliders. Open-air lounge with DJ. D (nightly). 755 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.659.3535 $$$$ Map I12


the spice tabLe Dishes inspired by Singaporean and Vietnamese traditions: satays, noodle soups, clay pot catfish, grilled or wood-burned vegetables. L, D (M–Sa). 114 S. Central Ave., Little Tokyo, 213.620.1840 $$ Map H17

bar pintxo Prominent California chef Joe Miller (Joe’s) offers authentic tortilla Española, bacalao and croquetas de jamón and Spanish wines. L, D (daily). 109 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.458.2012 $$ Map M8

nataLee thai Traditional Thai dishes are served amid edgy, modern décor. Among entrees are Nutty Chicken (a spicy combo of chicken, onion and dried chili) and a sole filet in red curry sauce. Veggie lovers favor the spicy maha jumlong curry. L, D (daily). 10101 Venice Blvd., Culver City, 310.202.7003; 998 S. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.855.9380 $ Map L11, I11

wp24 From its 24th-floor roost, WP24 proves that Wolfgang Puck, who pioneered Asian fusion, has still got the goods. The restaurant might offer downtown’s best skyline views. Highlights include “Not Too Classic” hot and sour soup and steamed bao filled with pork belly. D (nightly). The Ritz-Carlton, Los Angeles, 900 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.743.8824 $$$$ Map I15

the bazaar bY José andrés Star chef José Andrés brings whimsical set of Spanish-style dining experiences to the eminently stylish SLS Hotel. Cuisine ranges from rustic fare to the molecular gastronomy creations that have made Spain a culinary leader. Tasting room Saam offers an unforgettable 22-course prix fixe menu. D (nightly). 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.246.5555 $$$ Map H16

paLms thai This spot near the Pantages Theater is more known for its entertainment than its cooking, but both are worth the trip. Kavee Thongprecha, “the Thai Elvis,” does campy interpretations of the King’s repertory. Unusual menu items include frog legs with chili and basil. L, D (daily). 5900 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.462.5073 $ Map H14



Grilled salmon scallopini at Soleto Trattoria & Pizza Bar downtown


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208 RODEO Set atop the stairs on Via Rodeo’s cobblestone street, 208 Rodeo serves up luxury and bistro fare in a unique, romantic setting. Exuding Rodeo Drive elegance, the restaurant’s flagstone patio overlooks the BeverlyWilshire Hotel, setting of the film “Pretty Woman”. 208 Rodeo is a gem among the ritzy shops of Two Rodeo. Whether it is for breakfast, lunch, happy hour or dinner, for a quick bite or a full meal, 208 Rodeo offers it all amid warm regency decor. The eatery, a California cuisine with panAsian and French influences, is serving dishes that are both beautifully presented and imaginatively prepared with seasonal ingredients. Menu highlights include tomato bisque, spicy tuna tartar, cheese platter, kobe burger, seafood salad, penne arrabbiata, roasted salmon, steak on the grill and more. 208 Rodeo also offers cocktails, wines and beers as well as delectable desserts such as chocolate florentine, tiramisu and illy’s Italian cafe. A children’s menu is available for all meals. B, L, D (daily).

Starters Dungeness crab cake Crispy calamari French onion soup Spicy tuna tartar Roasted baby beet Truffled French & sweet fries Tomato bisque Sesame prawns Cheese platter Entrees Penne arrabbiata Filet mignon on the grill Mushroom & salmon pasta Diver scallops Roasted miso salmon Grilled striped bass Pork chop Chicken schnitzel Desserts Chocolate Florentine cannoli Mixed berry rolada Caramel Napoleon tiramisu Triple-layer chocolate mousse White chocolate cheese cake Fruit tart

208 Via Rodeo, Beverly Hills


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BENIHANA At the heart of the Benihana experience lies the teppanyaki table, where masterful chefs expertly prepare fine Japanese cuisine on hibachi grills. Favorites such as filet mignon, New York strip steak, colossal shrimp with butter and lemon, cold-water lobster and the signature hibachi chicken fried rice are cooked to order right in front of guests. Patrons are sure to enjoy the show by Benihana chefs, who are as well known for their culinary theatrics as they are for their outstanding cooking. The appetizer menu includes sushi and tempura selections. Interesting wines, premium imported sake, colorful cocktails and deliciously flavored iced teas are featured on the beverage menu as well as non-alcoholic frozen specialties. Children 12 and under can choose from the Kabuki Kids menu. L, D (daily).

Starters Assorted maki (sushi rolls) Hand roll combination Sushi sampler Sashimi sampler Calamari, shrimp or scallop tempura Beef sashimi Shrimp, scallop or calamari sautÊ Edamame Miso soup Hibachi chicken rice Spicy seafood soup Entrees Filet mignon Hibachi steak Hibachi lemon chicken Colossal mango shrimp Spicy hibachi chicken Hibachi Chateaubriand Salmon tsutsumiyaki Hibachi tuna steak Hibachi scallops Hibachi shrimp Twin lobster tails Spicy tofu steak Seafood Diablo with udon noodles Yakisoba Emperors salad Desserts Häagen-Dazs ice cream Green tea ice cream Fresh pineapple boat Banana tempura

38 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills


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MENU HIGHLIGHTS Starters Little Gem Caesar salad Burrata cheese and heirloom tomatoes Roasted organic artichokes

paparazzI rISToraNTE Paparazzi Ristorante in the Sheraton Gateway Hotel near LAX delights diners with fresh pasta in authentic sauces as well as artistically prepared seafood, poultry and steaks. Start with a tasty salad such as the Little Gem Caesar, or choose from appetizers including eggplant parmigiana or tuna tartar with blood orange vinaigrette and an artichoke puree. The house specialty is il cioppino dei Paparazzi. an enticing combination of seafood in a fennel pomodoro broth served with a classic garlic ciabatta. Or try the terra e mare, an Angus filet mignon served alongside wild Pacific prawns, asparagus and gorgonzola mashed potatoes. Pasta lovers can also find comfort with the robust flavorings of the garganelli alla salsiccia, lasagna al brasato or spaghetti alla chitarra. Dine in crisp, clean and classy dÊcor. An elegant private dining room accommodates 40 guests and is equipped for entertainment and audio-visual needs. Ranked as one of the top 10 Italian restaurants in Los Angeles by Chef Orazio Parisi has been awarded the Chef of the Year 2011 by Southern California Food Writer Association while inspiring the senses with his simple, classic Italian cuisine with a gentle nod to southern Italy. D (M–Sa).

Entrees Spaghetti alla chitarra Tagliatelle alla bolognese Garganelli con salsiccia Lasagna al brasato Il cioppino dei Paparazzi Filetto alla griglia Bistecca al pepe verde La bistecca del vaccaro Ossobuco Organic lamb chops Pan-seared branzino al salmoriglio Sicilian pistachio-crusted Alaskan halibut Desserts Crema fredda al limoncello Profiteroles Tiramisu

6101 W. Century Blvd., Westchester


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la dining Cafe Sierra Within walking distance of Universal Studios Entertainment Center, Café Sierra offers an extravagant, Vegasstyle seafood, lobster and prime rib dinner buffet with entertainment. On the weekend, they feature a delectable champagne brunch, voted best in Los Angeles. Signature American international breakfast buffet is perfect for early morning power meetings with Wi-Fi capabilities. A la carte breakfast, lunch and dinner menus offer a wide selection of continental cuisine with an array of award winning wines. The Atrium Lounge features great appetizers and happy hour special cocktails. Alfresco dining is available at pool and cabanas (weather permitting). 10% discount on dinner buffet with hotel key. B, L, D (daily).

555 Universal Hollywood Drive, Universal City 818.509.2030

Matteo’s Restaurant Frequented in its early days by celebs including Frank Sinatra and the rest of the Rat Pack, Matteo’s Restaurant has redefined its look and cuisine while maintaining status as the epitome of classic cool. A unique menu that changes with the seasons and an upscale supper club atmosphere form a winning combination of homey and hip. Executive chef Antonio Orlando’s menu feature sumptuous, cosmopolitan Italian fare like veal tartufato, lamb and weekly game specials. Happy hour specials Tuesday through Friday and on Sunday include half-off drinks and a $7 and under bar menu. For lunch, visit adjacent cafe Hoboken, open weekdays. D (Tu-Su).

2321 Westwood Blvd., L.A. 310.475.4521

Musha tokyo cuisine  

Musha Tokyo Cuisine serves unique culinary creations and the freshest fish to delight your palate. The traditional izakaya-style restaurant offers eclectic dishes of the highest quality, including many rarely found outside of Tokyo. The modern décor provides an inviting atmosphere for both couples and groups. Specialties include tempura shrimp glazed with spicy mayonnaise, fresh mackerel seared tableside, an Okonomiyaki-style octopus omelet with yakisoba noodles and wasabi-flavored lobster rolls. Enjoy dinner with some wine, shochu, sake or beer—and, most importantly, with all your friends. At Musha, eating, drinking and laughing are “the greatest joys in life”. D (nightly). 424 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica 310.576.6330 1725 W. Carson St., Torrance 310.787.7344 58 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena 626.405.1518 special advertising section

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la dining Il Fornaio Il Fornaio’s award-winning authentic Italian cuisine is a favorite in Los Angeles. Specialties include house-made pastas, wood-fired pizza, grilled fish, authentic risotto, and rotisserie meats. Artisan breads and pasta are made fresh daily. Each month a special menu from a different region of Italy is featured. With an event coordinator on-site to handle all of your needs, Il Fornaio is the perfect location for special events and business functions. Winner of the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence 2008.

301 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.550.8330 1800 Rosecrans Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.725.9555 1551 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.451.7800 1 Colorado, Pasadena, 626.683.9797

The Stinking Rose Located on Beverly Hills’ famed Restaurant Row, The Stinking Rose has made a name for itself, and its popularity is evident—people fill the unique dining rooms to partake of the tasty food enhanced by the fragrant bulb. Specialties include two pounds of whole, garlic-roasted Dungeness crab in a secret garlic sauce and the ever-popular forty-clove garlic chicken. “The Best Steak I Ever Tasted was in a Garlic Restaurant—The Stinking Rose in Beverly Hills”—Vladimir. L, D (daily).

55 N. La Cienega Blvd. (near Wilshire Blvd.), Beverly Hills 310.652.7673

Noé Restaurant & Bar   Located in the heart of the downtown theater district, minutes from Walt Disney Concert Hall and the Ahmanson Theatre, Noé Restaurant and Bar at the Omni Los Angeles Hotel at California Plaza features executive chef Glen Ishii’s frequently changing, market-driven menu. His contemporary American cuisine emphasizes fresh seasonal ingredients and an exciting selection including seafood and farm-raised meats and poultry. Popular with downtown residents and visitors alike, Noé features both indoor dining and an outdoor patio with intimate fire pits that showcases the stunning downtown skyline. Look for an extensive beverage list with wines and hand-crafted cocktails, pre-theater menus, happy hour specials and seasonal chef-driven events. D (nightly).

Omni Los Angeles Hotel, 251 S. Olive St., downtown 213.356.4100 special advertising section

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Restaurants City Index Our superguide by area, with cross reference to listings by cuisine. BEVERLY HILLS

father’s office 2  (Brew/Pub)......................70 lukshon  (Pan-Asian)................................................... 78


TAR & ROSES  (California)........................................... 70

THE BAZAAR  (Spanish).............................................. 78 bouchon  (French)....................................................... 72

NATALEE THAI  (Thai)................................................ 78

MATSUHISA  (Japanese)............................................... 76

VALENTIno  (Italian)..................................................... 75

chaya  (California)............................................................ 70

Waterloo & City  (British)..............................70

NOBU  (Japanese)............................................................... 76

YE OLDE KING’S HEAD  (British)....................... 70

THE STINKING ROSE  (Steak)............................... 78

Culina  (Italian)............................................................... 74 CUT  (Steak).......................................................................... 78 FRIDA  (Mexican)................................................................ 77 the grill on the alley  (Steak)................ 78 il fornaio  (Italian).................................................... 74 MASTRO’S STEAKHOUSE  (Steak)................... 78 McCORMICK & SCHMICK’S  (Seafood)............ 78

downtown artisan house  (American)................................. 68

LONG BEACH PARKERs’ LIGHTHOUSE  (Seafood).................. 78

bÄco mercat  (Eclectic).......................................... 72 cbs seafood  (Chinese).......................................... 70 chaya  (California)............................................................ 70

MALIBU geoffrey’s  (California)............................................ 70

MR. CHOW  (Chinese).................................................... 70

church & State  (French)..................................... 73

gladstone’s malibu  (Seafood).................... 78

NATALEE THAI  (Thai)................................................ 78

cicada  (Italian)............................................................... 74

maison giraud  (French)...................................... 73

nic’s  (California)................................................................ 70

drago centro  (Italian)........................................ 74

NOBU MALIBU  (Japanese)........................................ 76

POLO LOUNGE  (California)....................................... 70

the gorbals  (Eclectic)........................................... 72

saddle peak lodge  (American)................... 68

red medicine  (Pan-Asian)...................................... 78

katsuya  (Japanese)...................................................... 75

tra di noi  (Italian)...................................................... 75

Scarpetta  (Italian).................................................... 75

kendall’s brasserie  (French)..................... 73

SPAGO  (California)............................................................ 70 208 Rodeo  (California).............................................. 70 URasawa  (Japanese)................................................... 76 wolfgang puck  (American)............................. 70

lazy ox canteen  (Brew/Pub)......................... 70 más malo  (Mexican)................................................... 77 McCORMICK & SCHMICK’S  (Seafood)............ 78 mo-chica  (Latin).......................................................... 77

1810  (Latin)........................................................................... 77

buca di beppo  (Italian)......................................... 74

Comme çA  (French)..................................................... 73

rivera  (Latin).................................................................. 78

FRIDA  (Mexican)................................................................ 77

COOKS COUNTY  (California).................................. 70

soleto trattoria  (Italian).............................. 75

haven gastropub  (Brew/Pub)....................... 70

eva restaurant  (California)................................... 70

the spice table  (Pan-Asian).............................. 78

il fornaio  (Italian).................................................... 74

Gusto  (Italian)................................................................. 74

SUGARFISH  (Japanese)................................................ 76

KATSUYA  (Japanese)...................................................... 75

OSTERIA MOZZA  (Italian)....................................... 75

playa  (Latin)..................................................................... 78

HOLLYWOOD/EASTSIDE barbrix  (Mediterranean)............................................ 76

maison akira  (Eclectic)......................................... 72

WEST HOLLYWOOD ASIA DE CUBA  (Eclectic)........................................... 72

sushi roku  (Japanese)............................................. 76

BLT STEAK  (Steak)........................................................ 78

vertical wine bistro  (American)............. 70

BOA  (Steak).......................................................................... 78

dominick’s  (Italian).................................................... 74

CENTURY CITY BREEZE  (California)......................................................... 70

cecconi’s  (Italian)....................................................... 74

HARD ROCK CAFE  (American)............................. 68

bar pintxo  (Spanish)................................................ 78

the HUNGRY CAT  (Seafood)................................. 78

blue plate oysterette  (Seafood)............ 78

KATSUYA  (Japanese)...................................................... 75

boa  (Steak).......................................................................... 78

PaLMS THAI  (Thai)..................................................... 78 public kitchen + Bar  (Brew/Pub).............. 70 umami burger  (American)................................... 68

CRAFT  (American)............................................................ 68

Border Grill  (Mexican)........................................ 77 capo  (Italian).................................................................... 74 farmshop  (California)................................................ 70 father’s office  (Brew/Pub)...........................70 the hungry cat  (Seafood)................................. 78 il fornaio  (Italian).................................................... 74 ivy at the shore  (American).........................68


GJELINA  (Mediterranean)............................................. 77 sunny spot  (Eclectic)............................................... 72

smitty’s grill  (American).................................... 68

santa monica

TAVERN  (California).......................................................70

chaya  (California)............................................................ 70

the royce  (American)............................................... 68

the grill on hollywood  (Steak)......... 78

MUSSO & FRANK  (American)................................. 68


the tasting kitchen  (California)................. 70

son of a gun  (Seafood)........................................ 78

malo  (Mexican)................................................................ 77

umami burger  (American)................................... 68

rose tree cottage  (British).......................... 70

delphine  (French)........................................................ 73

sugarfish  (Japanese)................................................ 76

KATSU-YA  (Japanese).................................................... 76

superba snack bar  (Italian)......................... 75

red o  (Mexican)............................................................... 78

KATSUYA  (Japanese)...................................................... 75

buca di beppo  (Italian)......................................... 74

parkway grill  (California).................................. 70

cleo  (Mediterranean)...................................................... 77


buca di beppo  (Italian)......................................... 74

mccormick & schmick’s  (Seafood)............ 78

providence  (Seafood)............................................. 78

sushi roku  (Japanese)............................................. 76

the strand house  (American)....................... 68

BENIHANA  (Japanese).................................................. 75

patina  (French)................................................................ 73

Pizzeria Mozza  (Italian)..................................... 75

PETROS  (Mediterranean)............................................... 77


aoc  (Mediterranean).................................................... 76

WP24  (Pan-Asian)............................................................. 78

mccormick & schmick’s  (Seafood)............ 78

a/k/a bistro  (American)........................................ 68

cheval blanc bistro  (French)................... 73

lucques  (Mediterranean)........................................... 77

m.b. post  (American)................................................... 68


The parish  (British).................................................... 70

water grill  (Seafood)............................................ 78

MAR’SEL  (California)....................................................... 70

CAFE SIERRA  (Eclectic)............................................. 72

Angelini osteria  (Italian). ............................. 73

jar  (American).................................................................... 68

il fornaio  (Italian).................................................... 74

HARD ROCK CAFE  (American)............................. 68

cafe 140 south  (California)................................ 70

UMAMICATESSEN  (Eclectic)................................... 72

buca di beppo  (Italian)......................................... 74

SUGARFISH  (Japanese)................................................ 76

OCEAN SEAFOOD  (Chinese)................................. 72

ink.  (American)................................................................... 68

BENIHANA  (Japanese).................................................. 75

cafe del rey  (Mediterranean)............................. 77

BEVERLY Boulevard  3RD street  MELROSE avenue

NOÉ  (American).................................................................. 68



nick and stef’s  (Steak)...................................... 78

hatfield’s  (California)............................................70

true food kitchen  (American).................... 68

EVELEIGH  (American)................................................... 68 Gordon Ramsay  (Eclectic)................................. 72 the ivy  (American)............................................. ..........68 osteria drago  (Italian)....................................... 74 petrossian  (French)............................................... 73 STK  (Steak)........................................................................... 78

WESTSIDE matteo’s  (Italian)....................................................... 74

THE LOBSTER  (Seafood)............................................ 78

paparazzi  (Italian)..................................................... 75

Culver City

ANIMAL  (American)........................................................ 68

MÉLISSE  (French)............................................................. 73

picca  (Latin)...................................................................... 78

a-Frame  (Eclectic)......................................................... 72

ca’brea  (Mediterranean)............................................. 76

MILO & OLIVE  (California)......................................... 70

sotto  (Italian).................................................................. 75

akasha  (California)....................................................... 70

ray’s & stark bar  (Mediterranean)............... 77

sushi roku  (Japanese)............................................. 76

sushi sasabune  (Japanese)............................. 76

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Entertainment Guidelines

Map locators at the end of each listing (map a3; map h10, etc.) refer to maps in the back of this issue. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

Index Special Events ...................85 Theater ................................85 Music + Dance...................85 Sports...................................85 Attractions .........................86 Studio Tours/Tapings .....88

Museums ...........................88 Shopping..............................90 Spas .......................................91 Nightlife...............................92 Tours + Transport.............96

Special Events tournament of roses Through Jan. 2. Rose Parade (Jan. 1, 8 am), Rose Bowl (Jan 1, 1:30 pm). Postparade showcase of floats Jan. 1–2. Free curbside viewing of parade on first-come, first-served basis; grandstand seats $45–$90. Rose Bowl $150–$185 plus fees. Fees for other events vary. Rose Parade: Orange Grove, Colorado and Sierra Madre boulevards, Pasadena, 626.795.4171; Rose Bowl Stadium: Orange Grove Boulevard, Lida Street and Fair Oaks and Linda Vista avenues, Pasadena, 213.365.3675 Map Q18 los angeles travel & adventure show Jan. 12–13. The largest travel show in the western United States features rock climbing, ziplining, a scuba pool, Culinary Stage, live music and travel tips from speakers. 10 am–5 pm daily. $9–$12, under 16 free. Parking $10. Long Beach Convention Center, 300 E. Ocean Blvd., Long Beach, 562.436.3636 Map O16 downtown on ice Through Jan. 17. Outdoor skating rink plus holiday concert series, a Winter Holiday Fiesta, championship skating exhibitions and more. M–Th noon–10 pm, F–Su 10 am–10 pm; Christmas and New Year’s Day, noon–10 pm. $6. 532 S. Olive St., downtown, 213.847.4970 Map I16 photo l.a. Jan. 17–21. Twenty-second edition of contemporary photography fair featuring local and international galleries. Opening night gala is Jan. 17. Call for hours, admission prices. Santa Monica Civic Auditorium, 1855 Main St., Santa Monica, 323.458.8551 Map M8 ice at santa monica Through Jan. 21. Outdoor skating rink in downtown Santa Monica. M–Th 2–10 pm, F 2 pm–midnight, Sa 10 am–midnight, Su 10 am–10 pm. Admission, skate rental $12. 1324 5th St., Santa Monica, 310.461.8333 Map L8 l.a. art show Jan. 23–27. Eighteenth annual art fair features modern and contemporary artworks exhibited by 100 galleries from around the world. Includes IFPDA Print Fair. Jan. 24–26 11 am–7 pm; Jan. 27 11 am–5 pm. $15–$40. Los Angeles Convention Center, 1201 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 310.822.9145 Map I15 art los angeles contemporary Jan. 24–27. Contemporary art fair with 70 international blue-chip and emerging galleries. Jan. 24 (opening night) 7–9 pm. Jan. 25–26 11 am–7 pm, Jan. 27 until 6 pm. Call for admission prices. Barker Hangar, 3021 Airport Ave., Santa Monica, 323.851.7530 Map L9

nobby clark

Theater nothing to hide Through Jan. 6. Neil Patrick Harris directs sleight-of-hand artists Derek DelGaudio and Helder Guimarães. Audrey Skirball Kenis Theater, 10886 Le Conte Ave., Westwood, 310.208.5454 Map J10

other desert cities Through Jan. 6. A tell-all confessional novel rocks a family’s dynamic with ever-shifting alliances and politics in this new play from Pulitzer Prize finalist Jon Robin Baitz. Mark Taper Forum, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16 anything goes Through Jan. 6. Two unlikely couples set off on the S.S. American, and learn that sometimes destiny needs a little help from a crew of singing sailors, an exotic disguise and some good old-fashioned blackmail. Ahmanson Theatre, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16 backbeat Opening Jan. 20. Musical about the Beatles’ early days in Liverpool (with former members Pete Best and Stuart Sutcliffe) features the band’s classic songs. Ahmanson Theatre, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16 the gift Opening Jan. 29. Playwright Joanna Murray Smith’s comedy is about two couples vacationing at a ritzy resort who bond despite their differences. Then a seemingly inconsequential event presents them with a moral dilemma. Geffen Playhouse, 10886 Le Conte Ave., Westwood, 310.208.5454 Map J10

Music + Dance dorothy chandler pavilion Jan. 25–27 Shen Yun Performing Arts. 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7211 Map H16 staples center Jan. 20–21 Lady Gaga. Jan. 23–24 Muse. Jan. 30 The Who. L.A. Live, 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 800.745.3000 Map I15 thousand oaks civic arts plaza Jan. 13 Herman’s Hermits. Jan. 15–20 Dreamgirls. Jan. 18 Leeland Faulkner. Jan. 19 Gold Coast Wind Ensemble. Jan. 22–23 Shen Yun Performing Arts. Jan. 25 New Shanghai Circus. Jan. 26 New West Symphony. Jan. 27 Conejo Valley Youth Orchestras. Jan. 28 Jackson Browne. 2100 E. Thousand Oaks Blvd., Thousand Oaks, 805.449.2787 Map northeast of A1 walt disney concert hall Jan. 4–6 Los Angeles Philharmonic, conductor Christoph Eschenbach, percussionist Martin Grubinger. Jan. 6 Organist Nathan Laube. Jan. 8 Members of the L.A. Philharmonic. Jan. 10 L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Vassily Sinaisky, violinist Leonidas Kavakos, Women of Pacific Chorale. Jan. 15 L.A. Phil New Music Group, conductor Pablo HerasCasado, baritone David Adam Moore, tenor Jonas Olofsson, baritone Omar Ebrahim, countertenor Brian Asawa, soprano Janice Hall, baritone Kelly Anderson, mezzo-soprano Julia Migenes, soprano Measha Brueggergosman. Jan. 18–20 L.A. Philharmonic, Pablo Heras-Casado, violinist Midori. Jan. 19 Soprano Renée Fleming, mezzo-soprano Susan Graham. Jan. 24–26 L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Ludovic Morlot, pianist Emanuel Ax. Jan. 26–27 Los Angeles Master Chorale. Jan. 27 USC Thornton Symphony, principal conductor Carl St.Clair, soprano Angela Brown, baritone Kevin Deas, USC Thornton Concert Choir. Jan. 29 Members of the L.A. Philharmonic, pianist Lise de la Salle. Jan. 30 Pianist Yefim Bronfman. Jan. 31 L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Gianandrea Noseda, Lise de la Salle. 111 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 323.850.2000 Map H16

Sports staples center Jan. 1 Los Angeles Lakers vs. Philadelphia 76ers. Jan. 4 Los Angeles Clippers vs. Lakers. Jan. 5 Clippers vs. Golden State Warriors. Jan. 6 Lakers vs. Denver Nuggets. Jan. 9 Clippers vs. Dallas Mavericks. Jan. 11 Lakers vs. Oklahoma City Thunder. Jan. 12 Clippers vs. Orlando Magic. Jan. 13 Lakers vs. Cleveland Cavaliers. Jan. 15 Lakers vs. Milwaukee Bucks. Jan. 17 Lakers vs. Miami

Backbeat Goes On

Fans of the Beatles know that the Fab Four weren’t always four. There were actually five working-class lads—John Lennon, Paul McCartney, George Harrison, Pete Best and Stuart Sutcliffe—from Liverpool who banded together and brought their groundbreaking brand of rock ‘n’ roll to seedy clubs in Hamburg, Germany. Opening Jan. 20 at the Ahmanson Theatre downtown, Backbeat tells the story of the formative days in the history of the Beatles. Directed by five-time Tony Award nominee David Leveaux and co-written by Iain Softley and Stephen Jeffreys, Backbeat‘s book contains early Beatles hits such as “Twist and Shout” and “Love Me Do.” (Pictured, from left: Andrew Knott and Daniel Healy in Backbeat.) (See listing at left.)

The Farmers Market began in 1934 as a dirt parking lot at the corner of 3rd Street and Fairfax Avenue. Farmers sold fruits and vegetables out of the backs of their vehicles. p. 86


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Attractions + Museums

Heat. Jan. 18 WWE Raw World Tour. Jan. 19 Clippers vs. Washington Wizards. Jan. 22 Clippers vs. Oklahoma City Thunder. Jan. 25 Lakers vs. Utah Jazz. Jan. 27 Lakers vs. Oklahoma City Thunder. Jan. 27 Clippers vs. Portland Trail Blazers. Jan. 29 Lakers vs. New Orleans Hornets.  1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 800.745.3000  Map I15

Attractions Adamson House  1930s home filled with famed Malibu Potteries tile. Grounds open daily; house W–Sa 11 am–3 pm. $2–$7, under 6 free. No credit cards.  23200 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.456.8432  Map west of K7 Aquarium of the Pacific  Focus is on Pacific Ocean sea life. Pet the sharks at Shark Lagoon; Lorikeet Forest, Turtle Vision 4-D. The June Keyes Penguin Habitat is new. Daily 9 am–6 pm. $13.95–$24.95, under 3 free.  100 Aquarium Way, Long Beach, 562.590.3100  Map O16 Catalina Express  Year-round boat service to Catalina Island; daily departures from Long Beach, Dana Point, San Pedro. Reservation recommended. Call for hours. San Pedro, Long Beach: $27.50–$35.25 one-way, $55–$70.50 round-trip; Dana Point: $28.50–$35.25 one-way, $57–$72.50 round-trip; under 2 $2.50–$5.  800.995.4386, Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels  Stunning contemporary cathedral opposite Music Center. M–F 6:30 am–6 pm; Sa 9 am–6 pm; Su 7 am–6 pm.  555 W. Temple St., downtown, 213.680.5200  Map H17 Chinatown  Ornate architecture, dim sum, shops with Eastern wares. Art and antiques on Chung King Road.  Between Cesar E. Chavez Avenue and Bernard Street, Yale and Spring streets, downtown  Map G17 Disneyland  Mickey Mouse’s theme park. Recent additions include Finding Nemo Submarine Voyage. Updated Star Tours, Pirates of the Caribbean and Space Mountain. Fireworks, fantastic Fantasmic! continues. Call for hours. Admission (includes all rides and attractions): $74–$80, under 2 free.  1600 S. Disneyland Drive, Anaheim, 714.781.4565  Map I10
 Disney California Adventure Park  Soarin’ Over California, A Bug’s Land, Twilight Zone Tower of Terror, Toy Story Mania!. Ariel’s Undersea Adventure is newest attraction. Call for hours. Admission (includes all rides and attractions): $74–$80, under 2 free.  1600 S. Disneyland Drive, Anaheim, 714.781.4565  Map I10 Dolby Theatre  Tour the home of the Academy Awards formerly named the Kodak Theatre. M–F 10:30 am–4 pm; Sa–Su 8:30–10:30 am. $10–$15, under 4 free.  6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.308.6300  Map H13

madame tussauds Hollywood  Wax museum with some 115 likenesses of celebrities in music, film, sports and more. Costumes provided for photo ops with figures. Call for hours. $18–$25, under 4 free.  6933 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.798.1670  Map H13

El Capitan TheatrE  1926 Spanish-style movie palace screens Disney films new and old. Musical accompaniment to many shows. Call for schedule. $13–$16. VIP admission with reserved seat $26.  6838 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.467.7674  Map H13

The Music Center  The 90-minute Symphonian Music Center Tour includes history, architecture. Also see listing for Walt Disney Concert Hall. First come, first served. Tu–Sa 10:30 am–12:30 pm. Free.  151 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.4399  Map H16

El Pueblo de Los Angeles  Birthplace of Los Angeles. Twenty-seven buildings include 1818 Avila Adobe, L.A.’s oldest.  130 Paseo de la Plaza, downtown, 213.628.1274  Map H17

Ocean Front Walk  Boardwalk with street performers, souvenir vendors. Muscle Beach–adjacent.  Along beach between Marine Street and Grand Boulevard, Venice  Map N9

EXPOSITION ROSE GARDEN  Grassy pathways bisect 20,000 rose bushes of nearly 200 varieties. Daily 9 am to sunset. Free.  701 State Drive, downtown, 213.763.0114  Map K15

Olvera Street  Festive open-air Mexican marketplace with restaurants, shops at historic El Pueblo de Los Angeles.  Alameda Street between Main and Los Angeles streets, downtown, 213.628.1274  Map H17

Farmers Market  Local landmark with 120 produce stalls, restaurants and gift shops in open-air setting. M–F 9 am–9 pm; Sa 9 am–8 pm; Su 10 am–7 pm.  6333 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.933.9211  Map I13 GAMBLE HOUSE  Landmark Arts & Crafts–style home. First come, first served; reservations for daily 2 pm tour one week in advance. Th–Su noon–3 pm. $7–$12.50, under 12 free.  4 Westmoreland Place, Pasadena, 626.793.3334  Map Q19 Grauman’s Chinese Theatre  Historic Hollywood venue with walkway of stars’ hand- and footprints in the forecourt. Call for movie schedule.  6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.464.8111  Map H13 Greystone MANSION AND PARK  Gardens and park grounds open daily. Tours on Saturdays. 10 am–6 pm most days. Free.  905 Loma Vista Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.285.6830  Map I11 Griffith Observatory  Iconic attraction overlooking Hollywood. Hourly shows at planetarium. W–F noon– 10 pm; Sa–Su 10 am–10 pm. Free; donations accepted.  2800 E. Observatory Road, L.A., 213.473.0800  Map U23 Hollywood Walk of Fame  Celebs’ names are enshrined in bronze-and-terrazzo stars. Free.  Hollywood Boulevard from Gower Street to La Brea Avenue and Vine Street from Yucca Street to Sunset Boulevard, Hollywood, 323.469.8311  Map H13 Knott’s Berry Farm  More than 165 rides and attractions. Roller coasters include Silver Bullet, GhostRider and Xcelerator. Call for hours. $28.99–$57.99, under 3 free.  8039 Beach Blvd., Buena Park, 714.220.5200  Map D5 k1 SpEED  Indoor electric go-kart racing with snack bars and an arcade. M–Th noon–10 pm, F 11 am–11 pm, Sa 10 am–11 pm, Su 10 am–7 pm. $20 per race.  19038 S. Vermont Ave., Gardena, 310.532.2478  Map L15 L.A. LIVE  Burgeoning entertainment center is home to the Grammy Museum, Nokia Theatre and Club Nokia; restaurants, high-tech bowling lanes and nightspots such as the Conga Room.  800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.763.5483  Map I15 L.A. Zoo AND Botanical Gardens  Wildlife in parklike setting. Daily 10 am–5 pm. $9–$14, under 2 free.  Golden State (5) and Ventura (134) freeways, 5333 Zoo Drive, L.A., 323.644.4200  Map T23 LOS ANGELES COUNTY ARBORETUM & BOTANIC GARDEN  Peafowl roam the grounds and roost overhead at 127-acre garden. Make your own idyllic route or take the tram tour. Daily 9 am–5 pm (last admission 4:30 pm). Free third Tuesday of the month. $3–$8, under 5 free.  301 N. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.821.3222  Map Q22

pacific park  Amusement park on the Santa Monica Pier with rides including a solar-powered Ferris wheel, plus midway games, food vendors, specialty shops. Su–Th 11 am–11 pm, F–Sa 11 am–12:30 am. Admission free; rides $3–$5, unlimited pass $15.95–$21.95.  380 Santa Monica Pier, Santa Monica, 310.260.8744  Map L8 Ports O’ Call Village  Fifty stores and restaurants. Harbor cruises, helicopter tours, boat tours of Port of Los Angeles.  77 Nagoya Way (off Harbor Boulevard), San Pedro  Map O15 Queen Mary Ship and Seaport  Historic ocean liner—bigger than the Titanic!—permanently berthed in Long Beach Harbor. Shops, dining, art deco lounge and restaurant Sir Winston’s. The Russian Foxtrot Submarine is adjacent. Through Jan. 6 Chill. Continuing Diana: Legacy of a Princess. Su–Th 10 am–6 pm, F–Sa 10 am–7 pm for self-guided and guided tours. $13.95– $24.95, under 5 free.  1126 Queens Hwy., Long Beach, 562.435.3511  Map O16 Ronald Reagan Presidential Library and Museum  Air Force One Pavilion houses the Flying White House. Daily 10 am–5 pm. $9–$15, under 11 free.  40 Presidential Drive, Simi Valley, 800.410.8354  Map northwest of A1 Russian Foxtrot Submarine  Tour the Scorpion, moored next to historic Queen Mary ocean liner. Daily 10 am–6 pm. $9.95–$10.95, under 5 free.  1126 Queens Hwy., Long Beach, 562.432.0424  Map O16 san antonio winery  Complimentary tastings and tour of the only producing winery in L.A., which celebrates its 95th anniversary this year. Restaurant and wine shop on site. Daily 9 am–7 pm.  737 Lamar St., downtown, 323.223.1401  Map G17 Santa Monica Mountains National Recreational Area  Hiking, horseback riding, bird-watching on 150,000 acres. National Park Service Visitor Center open daily 9 am–5 pm (holidays exempt).  26976 Mulholland Hwy., Calabasas, 805.370.2301  Map west of B1 Six Flags Magic Mountain  Theme park has 17 coasters; dozens of attractions; rides including world’s tallest, fastest and longest flying coaster, Tatsu, and the world’s tallest vertical drop, Lex Luthor: Drop of Doom. Call for hours. $36.99–$61.99, under 3 free.  26101 Magic Mountain Pkwy., Valencia, 661.255.4111  Map A2 TOURNAMENT HOUSE  Tours of Rose Parade headquarters in Wrigley Mansion, Italian Renaissance-style home featuring Centennial Rose Garden and Wrigley Gardens. Th 2 and 3 pm. Free.  391 S. Orange Grove Blvd., Pasadena, 626.449.4100  Map R19

courtesy drkrm gallery and lab

Ansel Adams, Coastline in California (1940), shown at Photo L.A. in Santa Monica

Egyptian TheatRE  Restored 1922 Hollywood landmark screens classics, cult favorites, indie films. Excellent Forever Hollywood screens daily. Call for schedule. $7–$11.  6712 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.466.3456  Map H13


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Attractions + Museums 360 Sound: The Columbia Records Story at the Grammy Museum downtown

Studio Tapings AUDIENCES UNLIMITED Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows on CBS, FOX, NBC and CW. Minimum age 10–18, varies by show. Satellite TV Ticket Booth, Universal Studios Hollywood, 818.260.0041, Ext. 1. CBS STUDIO CENTER Reserve seats in the studio audience for tapings of prime-time television and game shows. Minimum age 12–18, varies by show. 4024 Radford Ave., Studio City, 818.655.5000 Map U18 CBS TELEVISION CITY Reserve seats for tapings of game shows such as The Price Is Right. Minimum age 12–18, varies by show. 7800 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.575.2345 Map J13

UNIVERSAL CITYWALK Eye-popping dining, shopping and entertainment promenade includes boutiques such as Fossil, Guess? and Abercrombie & Fitch, novelty stores and state-of-the-art cinema and IMAX theater. iFLY Hollywood is a simulated sky-diving wind tunnel. Call for hours. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.4455 Map U20 UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD World’s biggest motion picture/TV studio. Rides include new Transformers: The Ride 3-D, Jurassic Park, the Simpsons Ride and Revenge of the Mummy—the Ride. Tram studio tour includes King Kong 360 3-D and film and TV sets. VIP Experience is private guided tour through prop warehouse, working movie sets, soundstages. Call for hours. $72–$80, under 3 free. Front-of-line pass, $139–$149. VIP Experience $269. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 800.864.8377 Map U20 WALT DISNEY CONCERT HALL Frank Gehry-designed architectural landmark at the Music Center. Tour options include 45-minute self-guided audio tour narrated by John Lithgow; guided tours at noon and 1 pm; pre-matinee guided tours. Guided tours for 15 or more by reservation. 10 am–2 pm most days. Free. 151 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.4399 Map H16

THE ELLEN DEGENERES SHOW Free tickets for taping of comedienne’s daytime talk show. Minimum age 14; minors must show photo ID and be accompanied by a parent. Advance tickets, go to; dayof tickets, call before noon. Warner Bros. Studios, 3400 Riverside Drive, Burbank, 818.954.5929 Map U20 JIMMY KIMMEL LIVE Free tickets for live tapings of late-night ABC show. Minimum age 18. Phone line open M–F 1–4 pm. El Capitan Entertainment Center, 6840 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 866.546.6984 Map H13 NBC TELEVISION Reserve seats for sitcoms and The Jay Leno Show day of show only at NBC Ticket Box. Two tickets per person, first come, first served. Advance tickets except The Tonight Show through Audiences Unlimited. Minimum age 16. 3000 W. Alameda Ave., Burbank, 818.840.3537 Map T21 ON-CAMERA AUDIENCES Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows including American Idol, Family Feud, The X Factor, Chelsea Lately. Minimum age 12–18, varies by show. 818.295.2700, PARAMOUNT STUDIOS Tickets to tapings to show tapings offered first come, first served five days in advance and via website. Minimum age 12–18, varies by show. (Dr. Phil tickets, 323.461.7445, Audience@ 5555 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.956.1777, Map I14

Studio Tours


NBC STUDIOS Seventy-five-minute walking tour; see sets of The Tonight Show With Jay Leno, Days of Our Lives; wardrobe, makeup, special effects, sound effects. M–F 9 am–3 pm. $5–$8.50, under 5 free. 3000 W. Alameda Ave., Burbank, 818.840.3538 Map T21

THE ANNENBERG SPACE FOR PHOTOGRAPHY Ten thousand square feet with digital projection gallery, print exhibit area. Continuing No Strangers: Ancient Wisdom in a Modern World. W–F 11 am–6 pm, Sa 11 am–9 pm, Su 11 am–6 pm. Parking $3.50, $1 after 4:30 pm and all day Sa–Su. Admission free. 2000 Avenue of the Stars, Century City, 310.209.4560 Map J11

SONY PICTURES STUDIOS TOUR Two-hour walking tour of working motion picture studio includes sets of television shows and films including Spider-Man. Reservation, photo ID required. M–F 9:30 am–2:30 pm. $33; under 12 not admitted. Parking free. 10202 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.244.8687 Map L11 THE STUDIOS AT PARAMOUNT Two-hour group tour of the longest-operating and only remaining major studio in Hollywood. Reservation required. Tours M–F (holidays exempt) at 10 am, 11 am, 1 pm and 2 pm. $45. 5555 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.956.4848 Map I14 UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD See listing under Attractions. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.3801 Map U20 WARNER BROS. STUDIOS Two-hour VIP tour of working movie and TV studio includes backlots, enormous soundstages and costume department, memorabilia museum and observation of filming when possible. VIP tours available. Reservation recommended; photo ID required. M–F 8:20 am–4 pm, limited availability Sa–Su. $49, under 8 not admitted. 3400 Riverside Drive, Burbank, 818.972.8087 Map U20

CALIFORNIA AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM History, culture, art. Through Jan. 20 African American Military Portraits From the American Civil War: Selected Images From the Library of Congress Collections. Through Jan. 27 Coloring America: Selections From the California African American Museum’s Permanent History Collection. Continuing The Legacy of the Golden State Mutual Life Insurance Company: More Than a Business; Go Tell It On the Mountain. Ongoing Gallery of Discovery. Tu–Sa 10 am–5 pm; Su 11 am–5 pm. Free. Parking $10. 600 State Drive, Exposition Park, 213.744.7432 Map M8 CALIFORNIA SCIENCE CENTER Interactive exhibits for budding scientists. Continuing Wild Minds. Ongoing Endeavour: The California Story. Daily 10 am–5 pm. Permanent exhibition gallery, free; admission for other exhibits and Imax varies. Parking $8. 700 State Drive, Exposition Park, downtown, 323.724.3623 Map K15 GETTY CENTER Beautiful travertine-clad hilltop facility houses stunning collections of paintings, drawings, antiquities, photographs and decorative arts. Fabulous Central Garden and city views. Through Jan. 13 Drama and

Devotion: Heemskerck’s Ecce Homo Altarpiece From Warsaw. Continuing Florence at the Dawn of the Renaissance: Painting and Illumination, 1300–1350; Disegno: Drawing in Europe, 1520–1600; The Photographs of Ray K. Metzker and the Institute of Design; The Art of Devotion in the Middle Ages; Farewell to Surrealism: The Dyn Circle in Mexico; In Focus: Robert Mapplethorpe. Ongoing The Life of Art: Context, Collecting and Display. Tu–Th, Su 10 am–5:30 pm; F–Sa 10 am–9 pm. Free. Parking $15, $10 F–Sa after 5 pm. 1200 Getty Center Drive, L.A., 310.440.7300 Map K7 GETTY VILLA Getty Center’s exquisite coastal counterpart features Roman and Greek antiquities. Through Jan. 7 The Last Days of Pompeii: Decadence, Apocalypse, Resurrection. Through Jan. 21 The Sanctuaries of Demeter and Persephone at Morgantina. Continuing Lion Attacking a Horse From the Capitoline Museums, Rome. Ongoing Molten Color: Glassmaking in Antiquity; Roman Ephebe From Naples. Th–M 10 am–5 pm. Free. Parking $15. Advance timed tickets required. 17985 Pacific Coast Hwy., Pacific Palisades, 310.440.7300 Map K7 GRAMMY MUSEUM Museum on L.A. Live campus explores music, the creative and recording processes, and Grammy Award history. Continuing 360 Sound: The Columbia Records Story; Golden Gods: The History of Heavy Metal; Herman Leonard: Documenting the Giants of Jazz; Whitney! Celebrating the Musical Legacy of Whitney Houston; Good Vibrations: 50 Years of the Beach Boys. Ongoing Michael Jackson; This Land Is Your Land: Woody at 100. M–F 11:30 am–7:30 pm; Sa–Su 10 am–7:30 pm. $10.95–$12.95, under 6 free. 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.765.6800 Map I15 HAMMER MUSEUM Traveling shows and installations and permanent collection. Through Jan. 6 Graphic Design: Now In Production; Sun Yuan and Peng Yu. Opening Jan. 19 Selections From the Grunwald Center and the Hammer Contemporary Collection; Dara Friedman. Opening Jan. 20 Enrico David. Through Jan. 20 Lucy Raven. Continuing Game Room; Meg Cranston. Tu–F 11 am–8 pm, Sa–Su 11 am–5 pm. $5–$10, free on Thursdays. 10899 Wilshire Blvd., Westwood, 310.443.7000 Map J10 HOLLYWOOD MUSEUM Ten thousand artifacts on four floors: costumes such as Robert Pattinson’s and Taylor Lautner’s in Twilight; sets including Hannibal Lecter’s cell, props, photos, movie posters, scripts; and Max Factor’s makeup rooms, where Marilyn Monroe became a blonde and Lucille Ball a redhead. In restored Max Factor Building. W–Su 10 am–5 pm. $12–$15. 1660 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, 323.464.7776 Map H13 HUNTINGTON LIBRARY, ART COLLECTIONS, AND BOTANICAL GARDENS Stellar art, buildings and grounds, with more than a dozen themed gardens. Gallery includes Pinkie and The Blue Boy. Through Jan. 7 A Just Cause: Voices of the American Civil War. Through Jan. 14 A Strange and Fearful Interest: Death, Mourning and Memory in the American Civil War. Continuing Britain and the Sea: Maritime Drawings and Watercolors From the Huntington’s Art Collections; Lesley Vance & Ricky Swallow; Alpine Skeletons: Marsden Hartley Silverpoint Drawings. W–M 10:30 am–4:30 pm. $8–$23, under 5 free. 1151 Oxford Road, San Marino, 626.405.2141 Map R21 JAPANESE AMERICAN NATIONAL MUSEUM Promotes understanding of ethnic diversity with a focus on the Japanese American experience. Through Jan. 20 Giant Robot Biennale 3. Ongoing Common Ground: The Heart of the Community. Tu–W, F–Su 11 am–5 pm; Th noon–8 pm. $5–$9, under 6 free. 369 E. 1st St., downtown, 213.625.0414 Map H17 LOS ANGELES COUNTY MUSEUM OF ART Diverse premier collections; Broad Contemporary Art Museum and Resnick Pavilion are latest additions. LACMA West nearby. Through Jan. 6 Ken Price Sculpture: A Retrospective; Michael Helzer: Actual Size. Through Jan. 21 Ed Ruscha: Standard; Imagining the Modern Self: Photographs From the Audrey and Sydney Irmas Collection. Continuing Stanley Kubrick; Bodies and Shadows: Caravaggio and His


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from the National Gallery of Art, Washington

Norton Simon Museum Opens December 7, 2012 •

Vincent van Gogh (Dutch, 1853–1890), Self-Portrait, 1889, Oil on canvas, Collection of Mr. and Mrs. John Hay Whitney, National Gallery of Art, Washington

Vincent van Gogh’s Self-Portrait, 1889

Attractions + Museums Legacy; Lost Line: Contemporary Art From the Collections; Unfolding the Aryan Papers; Jim Shaw’s Dream Drawings; Bruce Nauman: For Beginners; Masterworks of Expressionist Cinema: Caligari and Metropolis; Young; Alia Syed: Eating Grass; Unveiling Femininity in Indian Painting and Photography; The Prints of John McLaughlin: Sites of Contemplation; Rostam 2—the Return Series by Siamak Filizadeh; Pictorial Relationships in Tibetan Thangka Painting and Furniture, Part I: Flowers; Tibetan Silver From the Collection of Julian Sands; Daily Pleasures: French Ceramics From the MaryLou Boone Collection; Robert Mapplethorpe: XYZ; Drawing Surrealism; Walter De Maria: The 2000 Sculpture; The Temptation of Arjuna: A Tale of Spiritual Triumph; Moments Measured. Ongoing Levitated Mass; Metropolis II; the Studio Glass Movement, 1962–2012. M–Tu, Th 11 am–5 pm, F until 8 pm; Sa–Su 10 am–7 pm. $10–$15, under 18 free. LaCMa west free. LACMA, 5905 Wilshire Blvd.; LACMA West, 6067 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.857.6000 Map J13 museum of contemporary art Premier contemporary art venue. Through Jan. 7 Taryn Simon: A Living Man Declared Dead and Other Chapters I–XVIII (GC); Blues for Smoke (GC). Through Jan. 14 Destroy the Picture: Painting the Void, 1949–1962 (Ga). Continuing Jason Schmidt: Some Los Angeles Artists (Ga); Ben Jones: The Video (PDC); The Panza Collection and Selections From Major Gifts of Beatrice and Philip Gersh, Rita and Taft Schreiber, and Marcia Simon Weisman (Ga). Ongoing MOCA Permanent Collection Masterworks 1945–1975 (Ga). Ga and GC: M, F 11 am–5 pm; Th 11 am–8 pm; Sa–Su 11 am–6 pm. PdC: Tu–F 11 am–5 pm, Sa–Su until 6 pm. $7–$12, under 12 free, Th 5–8 pm free; free at PdC. MOCA Grand Avenue (GA), 250 S. Grand Ave., downtown; Geffen Contemporary (GC), 152 N. Central Ave., downtown; MOCA Gallery at Pacific Design Center (PDC), 8687 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 213.626.6222 Map H16, H17, I12 museum of tolerance Exhibits examine prejudice and discrimination, legacy of the holocaust and human-rights issues. Continuing Para Todos Los Niños: For All the Children. M–F 10 am–5 pm; Su 11 am–5 pm. $11.50–$15.50, under 5 free. 9786 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.553.8403 Map J11 natural history museum of los angeles county Thirty-three million objects from dino fossils to fish. See paleontologists preparing fossil specimens at dino Lab. Age of Mammals is the permanent exhibition. The dinosaur hall is new; a highlight is the Tyrannosaurus rex growth series. First Fridays music series continues on the first Friday of each month. daily 9:30 am–5 pm. $5–$12, under 5 free. 900 Exposition Blvd., downtown, 213.763.3466 Map K15 norton simon museum Stellar collection of Renaissance to 20th-century masterworks and sculpture garden. Through Jan. 21 Significant Objects: The Spell of Still Life. Continuing Van Gogh’s Self-Portrait, 1889, on Loan From the National Gallery of Art, Washington; Studies in Desperation: A Suite by Connor Everts. w–M noon–6 pm, F until 9 pm. $7–$10; students with photo Id, under 18 free. 411 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.449.6840 Map Q19 petersen automotiVe museum Continuing Art Wall: Theodore W. Pietsch II; Aerodynamics: From Art to Science; Sculpture in Motion: Masterpieces of Italian Design. Ongoing The Streetscape: The Car and the City in Southern California; Hollywood Gallery: Cars of Film & Television; Alternative Power: Lessons From the Past, Inspiration for the Future; Hot Wheels Hall of Fame. Tu–Su 10 am–6 pm. $3–$10, under 5 free. 6060 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.930.2277 Map J13


9786 west pico boulevard los angeles, ca 90035 t: 310.553.8403

skirball cultural center The american Jewish experience. Continuing Visions and Values: Jewish Life From Antiquity to America; Voices & Visions; Creating the United States; Decades of Dissent: Democracy in Action, 1960–1980; Free to Be U.S.—A First Amendment Experience. Ongoing Noah’s Ark at the Skirball. Tu–F noon–5 pm; Sa– Su 10 am–5 pm. $5–10, children under 2 free. 2701 N. Sepulveda Blvd., L.A., 310.440.4500 Map G9


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Shopping Shopping Destinations THE AMERICANA AT BRAND  Huge downtown Glendale hot spot with Main Street, U.S.A., atmosphere and trolley from the creators of The Grove. Ninety stores and dining options. Boutiques include a Tiffany & Co.concept store, Kate Spade and Kiehl’s; other draws include H&M, Barneys CO-OP and Pacific Theatre cinema.  Brand Boulevard and Americana Way, Glendale, 818.637.8900  Map southeast of T23 Beverly Center  Trend-setting mall near West Hollywood has 160 boutiques (Tiffany & Co., Versace Collection, Fendi, Henri Bendel, Prada) and restaurants including the Capital Grille. Anchors include Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s.  La Cienega and Beverly boulevards, L.A., 310.854.0070  Map I12 Fashion District  This downtown neighborhood is a bargain hunter’s paradise. More than 1,000 stores sell to the public at 30%–70% discounts on apparel, accessories, textiles and flowers.  Between Main and San Pedro streets; Olympic Boulevard and 7th Street, downtown, 213.488.1153  Map J16 Fred Segal  A multitude of international trends since 1968 began in what may be L.A.’s most famous store, an emporium of individually owned boutiques. Cafe and salon are popular for shoppers and drop-ins.  8100 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 310.394.1271; 420 and 500 Broadway, Santa Monica, 323.651.1935  Map I13, L8 Glendale Galleria  Family-oriented mall with department stores and boutiques including Nordstrom, Crabtree & Evelyn and Vans.  Colorado Boulevard and Central Avenue, Glendale, 818.240.9481  Map U23

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The Grove  Popular outdoor center has more than 50 shops, a Barneys CO-OP, Nordstrom and nine restaurants in a setting that suggests a grand old downtown. Movie theater, trolley and dancing fountain are draws. The Wall Street Journal rates concierge services No. 1 in the nation. Adjacent to Farmers Market.  3rd Street and Fairfax Avenue, L.A., 323.900.8080  Map I13 Hollywood & Highland CENTER  Home of the Academy Awards’ Dolby Theatre. Tinseltown-themed retail, dining and entertainment center features several restaurants, cinema, high-tech bowling lanes and stores such as Louis Vuitton and Lucky Brand Jeans.  Hollywood Boulevard and Highland Avenue, Hollywood, 323.467.6412  Map H13 Jewelry District  Retailers offer 50%–70% savings on gems, watches and fine jewelry. At the St. Vincent’s Jewelry Center (645–650 S. Hill St.), you’ll find 500 jewelry merchants.  Between Olive Street and Broadway, from 6th to 8th streets, downtown  Map I16 malibu country mart  Outdoor center tucked away in beach town with upscale boutiques such as Ron Herman, James Perse, Madison; galleries, spas, children’s play area. Restaurants include Tra di Noi.  3835 and 3900 Cross Creek Road, Malibu, 310.456.7300  Map northwest of K7 One COlorado  Outdoor plaza with boutiques such as Gold Bug, Kate Spade, Juicy Couture, Papyrus, Armani A/X and deluxe movie theater Ipic Theaters. Refuel after retail therapy at Italian restaurant Il Fornaio or Sushi Roku.  41 Hugus Alley, Old Pasadena, 626.564.1066  Map Q19 ontario mills outlets  California’s largest outlet shopping destination. Among 200 stores are Ralph Lauren, Hugo Boss Factory Store, DKNY, Saks Fifth Avenue Off 5th, Last Call by Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom Rack. Thirty-screen cineplex.  1 Mills Circle, Ontario, 909.484.8300  Map east of B6


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Spas Paseo Colorado  Outdoor shopping promenade near Old Town features Loft, Coach and an ArcLight Cinemas.  Los Robles Avenue and Colorado Boulevard, Pasadena, 626.795.8891  Map Q20 the pike at Rainbow Harbor  Shopping and entertainment district links the Long Beach Convention Center to Rainbow Harbor’s waterfront and the Aquarium of the Pacific. Shops include Segway and Piccolo Books.  95 S. Pine Ave., Long Beach, 562.432.8325  Map N16 promenade on the peninsula  Trilevel open-air shopping center in peaceful Palos Verdes boasts Equinox Fitness Club & Spa, J. Crew, White House/Black Market, Restoration Hardware and more. Cinema, ice-skating rink and casual dining.  500 Deep Valley Drive, Palos Verdes, 310.541.0688  Map O13 Santa monica place  Sleek outdoor mall at one end of Third Street Promenade, two blocks from Santa Monica State Beach. Anchored by Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s. More than 80 boutiques including 7 for All Mankind, CB2 and Barneys CO-OP. Rooftop Dining Deck with food court, nine restaurants and gourmet market.  395 Santa Monica Place, Santa Monica, 310.394.1049  Map L8 South Coast Plaza  High-end center boasts nearly 300 boutiques, 30 restaurants and several spas. Stores include Chanel, Gucci, Valentino, Chloé, Jimmy Choo, Christian Dior. Concierge at five locations.  3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 800.782.8888  Map 6E Sunset Plaza  Upscale row of boutiques and sidewalk cafes is L.A.’s Euro hang. Calypso, Ole Henriksen spa and H. Lorenzo stores.  8600–8700 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood  Map H12


In LOS ANGELES and other fine cities.

Third Street Promenade  Pedestrian-only shopping zone includes Zara, Cotton On, Converse, Anthropologie, kiosks and a wide array of very entertaining street performers.  3rd Street between Broadway and Wilshire Boulevard, Santa Monica  Map L8 Two Rodeo  Center with cobblestones in the heart of Beverly Hills features Versace, Stephen Webster and other high-end boutiques, plus restaurants including 208 Rodeo.  At Rodeo Drive and Wilshire Boulevard, Beverly Hills, 310.247.7040  Map J11 Westfield Century City  Sleek open-air mall with more than 175 stores, including Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s and Tiffany & Co. Luxe AMC multiplex with Imax screen, beautifully designed food court atrium and terrace.  10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City, 310.277.3898  Map J11 WESTFIELD SANTA ANITA  Nordstrom and Macy’s, stores including Nine West, Brookstone and H&M, entertainment venues including AMC Theatres and a Jump ’n Jammin Children’s Center.  400 S. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.445.6255  Map R23 WESTFIELD TOPANGA  Upscale retail center boasts Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom and more.  6600 Topanga Canyon Blvd., 818.594.8740­  Map west of A1

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Westside Pavilion  Center south of Westwood Village is anchored by Nordstrom and Macy’s. Landmark theater is the country’s most spectacular indie cineplex.  10800 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.474.6255  Map J11

Spas Anastasia BEVERLY HILLS  Celebrity brow guru Anastasia Soare’s beauty haven offers facials plus brow shaping and other waxing services. West L.A. spa has full-service hair salon.  438 N. Bedford Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.273.3155; 11933 Wilshire Blvd., West L.A., 310.479.8300  Map J11, K9


bliss SPA  Hotel spa goes hip. Full-service spa also includes nail stations, expansive boutique with Bliss products. Sauna, steam showers.  W Westwood,

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Nightlife 930 Hilgard Ave., Westwood, 310.443.8228; W Hollywood, 6250 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 877.862.5477 Map J10, H14 ciel spa heavenly, all-white retreat at the SLS hotel at Beverly hills does face, body, nail and hair treatments. access to fitness center and altitude pool deck. Steam room, showers. 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.246.5560 Map I12 face place Specialty studio offers just one facial, featuring an antiaging formulation whose penetration is aided by the application of galvanic current. 8701 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.855.1150; Face Place at Stark Waxing Studio, 12324 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.505.3665 Map H12, U18 hotel bel-air spa by la prairie The skin-care products of the Swiss luxury brand La Prairie are spotlighted at the hotel Bel-air. Steam rooms, showers, relaxation room. 701 Stone Canyon Road, Bel-Air, 310.909.1681 Map I10 kate somerVille skin health experts hollywood’s favorite facials are offered in a feminine salon on superexclusive Melrose Place. 8428 Melrose Place, West Hollywood, 323.655.7546 Map I12 le posh salon/spa/lounge Sleek spa looks more like a hollywood lounge than a Zen retreat. Face and body treatments in the spa; hair, nail and makeup services in the salon. 7551 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.851.5558 Map H12 ole henriksen face/body spa Full-service spa to the stars specializes in face and body care and also offers nail and makeup services. Co-ed steam room. Sunset Plaza, 8622 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 310.854.7700 Map H12 spa at the beVerly wilshire The spa’s aromatherapy crystal steam room is as delightful to look at as it is to experience. The nail Bar offers Cnd Shellac manicures and pedicures. Showers available. 9500 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.385.7023 Map J11 spa luce Spa in the heart of hollywood boasts access to rooftop pool. Facial and body therapies plus nail, makeup and hair services. Steam room. Loews Hollywood Hotel, 1755 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, 323.491.1376 Map H13 spa montage The last word in luxury spas. also includes Kim Vo Salon, Gornik & drucker barber shop and fitness facilities. Sauna, steam room, whirlpools, showers. 225 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.860.7800 Map J11 thibiant beVerly hills Skin-care doyenne aida Thibiant founded this spa that has whipped famous faces into shape for nearly four decades. Treatments include the OxyFusion Puractive facial for blemish-prone skin. Steam room, steam showers. 449 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.278.7565 Map I11


Celebrating the Musical Legacy of Whitney Houston On display through May 2013

On display through September 2013

tikkun spa Tucked underground in Santa Monica is this traditional Korean spa with contemporary style. Three co-ed sweat rooms plus sauna, whirlpool, showers. 1460 4th St., Santa Monica, 310.319.1111 Map L8

Nightlife the abbey Fixture of the weho gay scene serves flavored martinis galore. 692 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.289.8410 Map H12 the association The gang from Bar Copa and the Room turn out another nightlife mainstay. 110 E. 6th St., downtown, 213.627.7385 Map I16

On display through November 2013

800 West Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90015 Mon-Fri 11:30AM – 7:30PM, Sat-Sun 10AM – 7:30PM For more information, go to WWW.GRAMMYMUSEUM.ORG GRAMMY Museum® and the Museum logo are registered trademarks of The Recording Academy® and are used under license.


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Nightlife BAR CHLOE  Parisian-inspired lounge nearby Third Street Promenade.  1449 2nd St., Santa Monica, 310.899.6999  Map L8 BAR MARMONT  Dreamy bar next door to historic Chateau Marmont.  8171 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.0575  Map H12 Barney’s Beanery  Route 66 roadhouse bar.  8447 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.654.2287; 1351 3rd St., Santa Monica, 310.656.5777; 250 N. 1st St., Burbank, 818.524.2912  Map H12, M8, A3

LA’s hottest, upscale, funky, trendy children’s boutique!

basement tavern  Underground speakeasy in a Victorian abode; live music.  The Victorian, 2640 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.392.4956  Map M8 beer belly  Tiny craft beer bar focusing on Southern California-brewed beers with a greasy/gourmet Sunday brunch.  532 S. Western Ave., Koreatown, 213.387.2337  Map B2 caña RUM BAR at the doheny  Premium rum bar with some 140 small-batch rums and cigar pairings.  714 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.745.7090  Map I16 city tavern  Brews, California wines and cocktails. Booths outfitted with computerized craft brew taps; patrons pour their own.  9739 Culver Blvd., Culver City, 310.838.9739  Map L11 copa d’oro  Design-your-own cocktails from a list of farmers-market ingredients.  217 Broadway, Santa Monica, 310.576.3030  Map L8 covell  Intimate neighborhood wine bar.  4628 Hollywood Blvd., Los Feliz, 323.660.4400  Map W23 THE EDISON  Posh renovated power plant. Get there early. Dress code.  108 W. 2nd St., downtown, 213.613.0000  Map H17 1886  Artisan cocktails inside retro restaurant the Raymond.  1250 S. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena, 626.441.3136  Map S19 Eleven  Gay lounge in 1922 building.  8811 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.855.0800  Map H12

312 North Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills • 310 385 7110 M-F 10am-7pm • Sa-Su 10am-5pm

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EL REY THEATRE  Hot indie bands play art deco theater on Miracle Mile.  5515 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.936.6400  Map J13 Golden Gopher  Chandeliers and Pac-Man tables. Outdoor and indoor hangout options.  417 W. 8th St., downtown, 213.614.8001  Map I16 golden road brewing  Brewery with a limited selection of signature beers plus 15 other selections on “guest taps.”  5410 W. San Fernando Road, Atwater Village, 213.373.4677  Map T23 Greystone Manor supperclub  Neo-Gothic dance club with entertainment from aerialists and other performers.  643 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.652.2012  Map I12
 harvard & stone  Fine cocktails in a grittychic industrial space.  5221 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.466.6063  Map W22 Hemingway’s  Sumptuous library-styled lounge.  6356 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.469.0040  Map H14 high  Boutique hotel’s rooftop bar with 360-degree views of Venice Beach.  Hotel Erwin, 1697 Pacific Ave., Venice, 310.452.1111  Map N9


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Nightlife house of blues name bands in faux bayou setting. 8430 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.848.5100 Map H12 hyde SBE lounge that spawned offshoots around the country. Reservation recommended. 8029 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.525.2444; Hyde at Staples Center, 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 323.330.8018 Map I14, I15 James’ beach Pickup scene a block from the beach; super food. 60 N. Venice Blvd., Venice, 310.823.5396 Map N9 la descarga Cuban-inspired rum bar. Live band and dance performances. Reservation recommended; upscale dress code. 1159 N. Western Ave., Hollywood, 323.466.1324 Map east of H14





46% 4 Walk of Fame attractions


las perlas Festive tequila and mezcal bar with sophisticated cocktails. 107 E. 6th St., downtown, 213.988.8355 Map I16 laugh factory Famed comedy nightclub. 8001 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.656.1336; 151 S. Pine Ave., Long Beach, 562.495.2844 Map H12, N16 library bar Classy nook with book theme is afterwork go-to. 630 W. 6th St., downtown, 213.614.0053 Map H16 little bear Belgian-style eats and imported and domestic beers in the arts district 1855 Industrial St., downtown, 213.622.8100 Map east of J17


Starline Movie Stars’ Homes Tour

los angeles brewing company Two-level bar with 100 taps of beer. 750 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.622.0500 Map I16 lucky strike lanes high-tech bowling lounges. Hollywood & Highland, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.467.7776; Del Amo Fashion Center, 3525 Carson St., Torrance, 310.802.7020; L.A. Live, 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 877.893.8259 Map H14, D3, I15 mohawk bend hipster bar in the shell of an art deco theater with more than 70 craft beers on tap. 2141 W. Sunset Blvd., Echo Park, 213.483.2337 Map south of W23


Madame Tussauds Hollywood

HOLLYWOOD LEGEND 100 YEARS OF GLAMOUR & GRACE Red Line Tours’ Hollywood Behind-the-Scenes

next door lounge Classic cocktails and 1920s panache. 1154 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, 323.465.5505 Map H15 one-eyed gypsy Lounge is styled as a retro carnival with 1930s decor and midway games. 901 E. 1st St., downtown, Map I17 the otheroom Microbrews and wines by the glass, new York City-style. 1201 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.396.6230 Map N9 pagoda bar Poolside lounge at palatial restaurant with panoramic views of hollywood. Yamashiro Restaurant, 1999 Sycamore Ave., Hollywood, 323.466.5125 Map H13 perch Open-air roost in a historic building; indoor cabaret lounge Bar Thirteen is underneath. 448 S. Hill St., downtown, 213.802.1770 Map I16 the roger room hidden speakeasy with creative cocktails. 370 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.854.1300 Map J12 the roxy historic rock ‘n’ roll venue on the strip. 9009 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.276.2222 Map H12 rush street Culver City’s full of wine bars, but this huge Chicago-style hangout has all the libations. 9546 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.837.9546 Map L11

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Artist: John McDonald

Sizes 12 & up

Nightlife the satellite alt-music venue (formerly known as Spaceland) books under-the-radar indie bands. 1717 Silver Lake Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.661.4380 Map W23 the sayers club Exclusive neo-speak-easy with a secret entrance from inside hot-dog joint Papaya King. 1645 Wilcox Ave., Hollywood, 323.871.8233 Map H14 seVenty 7 hidden, mixology-focused speak-easy; look for the alley entrance. 3843 Main St., Culver City, 310.559.7707 Map L11 skybar Chic open-air roost with a view at the Mondrian hotel. Reservations required. 8440 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.848.6025 Map H12 the spare room Lounge with bowling lanes and fab cocktails. Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.466.7000 Map H13 the standard downtown Rooftop bar with panoramic city views, pool, vibrating red waterbeds. 550 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.892.8080 Map I16

The only upscale boutique in greater Los Angeles for women size 12 and up. From comfortable to casual or dressy— classic to funky or fun: Abundance has it all! 13604 Ventura Blvd. Sherman Oaks



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the standard hollywood Lounge with swinging seats, glowing purple walls. 8300 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.9090 Map H12 £10 Pronounced “ten pound,” this whisky bar in the Montage Beverly hills specializes in single-malt whisky from the Macallan. 225 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.860.7800 Map J11 thirsty crow whisky and bourbon bar. 2939 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.661.6007 Map south of W23 tower bar Tony bar at Sunset Tower hotel; pianist in tails plays at the baby grand. 8358 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.848.6677 Map H12 tropicana bar Poolside hot spot at the Roosevelt hotel. 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.466.7000 Map H13 troubadour historic spot books up-and-coming alt-rock and local bands. 9081 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.276.6168 Map H12 Vampire lounge & tasting room Gothic wine bar with Vampire Vineyards wines, small plates and cheeses. 9865 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.826.7473 Map I11

Your Source for quality seating

the Varnish The mixing of Prohibition-era cocktails is an art form at this bar in the back of Cole’s diner. 118 E. 6th St., downtown, 213.622.9999 Map I17 Villains taVern Stylish haunt in the arts district. Indoor bar for cocktails, outdoor bar for craft beers and flavor-paired shots. 1356 Palmetto St., downtown, 213.613.0766 Map east of I17 Viper room Tiny, nitty-gritty live-music venue. 8852 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.358.1880 Map H12

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whisky a go go Rock and Roll hall of Famer still rocks. 8901 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.652.4202 Map H12 the writers room The refurbished “back room” of Musso & Frank does mixology. 6685 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.491.4148 Map H16 wurstkÜche Exotic sausage and beer hall is a popular, boisterous neighborhood hangout. Try the duck-bacon-jalapeño frank. 800 E. Third St., downtown; 625 Lincoln Blvd., Venice. 213.687.4444 Map I17, M9


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Tours +Transport


X BAR Indoor-outdoor playpen for CAA and ICM talent agents. Hyatt Regency Century Plaza, 2025 Avenue of the Stars, Century City, 310.228.1234 Map J11

illuminating the los angeles art scene

Tours + Transport Private, curated tours of one of the world’s hottest gallery scenes - come see what’s happening on the cutting edge of LA’s contemporary art.

AmtRAk Train and bus service within the county, along the coast and to major California locations. Nationwide connections, multiple-day rail passes. Stations in Burbank, downtown (Union Station), Long Beach, Pasadena and Van Nuys. The Coast Starlight connects L.A. to Ventura, Santa Barbara, San Francisco, Portland and Seattle. 800.872.7245,

AnotheR side oF Los AnGeLes touRs A wide variety of focused tours, organized by interest—whale watching, shopping, celebrity homes—or mode of transportation (kayak, Segway, horseback, helicopter). 1102 S. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.289.8687


Rose Tree Cottage A Regal English Afternoon Tea

BeveRLy hiLLs Rent-A-CAR Luxury and exotic rentals with pickup service. Hollywood, 310.659.5555; Beverly Hills, 310.274.6969; LAX, 310.670.2020; Marina del Rey, 310.862.1900

by reservation

BeveRLy hiLLs tRoLLey touR Forty-minute tour of landmarks, attractions; departs from Rodeo Drive and Dayton Way. Sa-Su 11 am–4 pm. $5–$10. 310.285.2442 Map J11

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BiG BLue Bus Santa Monica city bus line covers the Westside. Well-kept environmentally friendly buses burn cleaner gas. 50¢–$2. 310.451.5444,

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Bikes & sAiL AdventuRe Biking and/or sailing tours in customizable or preset itineraries. Exclusive Bike & Hike Sail Adventure includes all three activities. Halfor full-day bike rentals. 8743 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.796.8555 Map I12 CityPAss Hollywood CityPass offers discounted admission to Starline Movie Stars Homes Tour, Behind-the-Scenes Hollywood walking tour with Red Line Tours, Hollyood Wax Museum and either the Dolby Theatre tour or Hollywood Museum access. $59, ages 3–11 $39, under 3 free. Purchase pass at attractions. Southern California CityPass ($279) includes admission to theme parks from L.A. to San Diego. 888.330.5008, ZAGAT RATED 2011Excellent

french cuisine with a japanese flair

713 east gr een str eet pasadena 626 796 9501 m a i s o n a k i r a . n e t

downtown ARt wALk Pedestrians fill the streets of downtown for this self-guided gallery tour. Second Thursday of every month, noon–10 pm; lounge open from 6–10 pm. Free. 213.617.4929, eLite AdventuRe touRs Unique, upscale tours, including helicopter and wine tours, with first class service. Includes pick-up and drop off at hotel or airport. Reservations Required. 888.328.6871, Maison Akira_0911v1.indd 1 enteRPRise Rent-A-CAR Dependable car rental service. 1944 S. Figueroa Blvd., downtown; 1234 S. La Brea Ave., L.A.; 8367 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood; 265 N. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills. 866.458.9227, Map J15, J13, H12, J12

Be magically transported to colorful Morocco and the 7/27/11 1:18 PM beginning of a never ending feast. Babouch serves exquisite, authentic Moroccan cuisine in a tent like atmosphere with belly dancing nightly. Specialties include lamb, brochette of beef, cous cous, seafood and shrimp.

eXeCuCAR Premier luxury sedan service. Sedan and SUV service, flat rates, special group services, and frequent-flier points and miles with select airlines. 800.410.4444, GLitteRAti touRs Private tours at locations across the county and beyond include Coastal Access (beach communities), Underbelly L.A. (local scandals and infamous crime scenes) and Just the Hills (celebrity homes). Reservation required. 310.720.3809, • 810 S. Gaffey St., San Pedro • 310 831 0246

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Tours +Transport L.A. ART GALLERY TOURS Tours of local art-gallery destinations. Choose a geographical area of focus from Culver City/Mid-Wilshire, Chinatown/downtown or Santa Monica/Venice. Tu–Sa 10 am–6 pm. $40–$50 per person; varies by group size. 310.650.9384,

Movie StarS HoMeS tour

MALIBU DISCOVERY TOURS Themed tours in and around Malibu include the six-hour Malibu Wine Trail Tour with wine tastings, Sunrise Hiking Tour, Malibu Whale Watching & Celebrity Homes Boat Tour (December through May) and Malibu Celebrity Lifestyle Tour. 310.393.6555,

The Original & Best

Includes over 40 celebrity Homes, views of Hollywood Sign, Sunset Strip, Walk of Fame, Chinese Theatre and Rodeo Drive.

MELTING POT FOOD TOURS Tasting tours of foodie destinations such as Farmers Market or a selection of restaurants. Private tours available. Reservation required. $53–$59. 424.247.9666; tickets, 800.979.3370,

Los Angeles World’s Largest Open-Top double-decker narrated city tour. Over 50 stops including Hollywood, Santa Monica, Beverly Hills and Downtown LA. Tickets valid for 24 or 48 hours.

Hollywood as only TMZ can show you! Inside info about celebrities & hotspots.

Grand City tour of La 5½ Hour Escorted City Tour This Multilingual Tour is available in: English










Main Starline Terminal is at Grauman’s Chinese Theatre, 6925 Hollywood Blvd. Santa Monica Office is on Santa Monica Pier Anaheim Terminal is at Jolly Roger Hotel, 640 West Katella Ave.




SUNSET RANCH Horseback riding in the Hollywood Hills and Griffith Park daily. Sunset rides through Griffith Park to Burbank include dinner at Mexican restaurant and nighttime ride back to ranch (reservation required except for on Fridays). $40–$100. 3400 N. Beachwood Drive, Hollywood, 323.469.5450 Map V21

TAKE MY MOTHER PLEASE Enthusiastic, “curly headed” Arkansas native packs up to five of your visiting relatives (or other VIPs) in a new hybrid SUV for customized tour of “gloriously unusual” sights. 323.737.2200

Tel: 1-800-959-3131 or 1-323-463-3333


STARLINE TOURS Movie Stars’ Home Tour, Trolley Fun Tour, Grand Tour of L.A. Prices vary. Tours begin at Grauman’s Chinese Theatre, 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 800.959.3131 Map H13

SUPERSHUTTLE Shared-ride shuttle service to and from airport. Group rates, charters, and frequent-flier points and miles with select airlines. 800.258.3826,

1-hour Hollywood Fun Tours, Beach Tours, Disneyland, Universal Studios Hollywood, Warner Bros VIP Tour, Six Flags, San Diego and Tijuana

METROLINK Regional train system connects Los Angeles County with Ventura, Orange and San Diego counties. Six of seven Metrolink rail lines (including the Orange County lines, San Bernardino lines and Ventura County lines) begin at Union Station in downtown Los Angeles. 800.371.5465, OLYMPIC RENT-A-CAR Luxury sedans and exotics outfitted with Sirius and XM satellite radio service. Cars on offer include those by BMW, Lexus, Audi, Bentley and Porsche. 9230 W. Olympic Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.285.9800 Map K12

More than a Tour...It’s a Show on Wheels!

otHer tourS inCLude:

METRO City bus, light rail and subway. Rail lines connect downtown, Hollywood, Pasadena, Long Beach. Underground Red Line from Union Station through Hollywood to San Fernando Valley; Gold Line from Union Station to Pasadena; Blue Line from Union Station to Long Beach; Green Line from Norwalk to Redondo Beach; Expo Line from Culver City to downtown. $6 day pass. 323.466.3876,


TMZ HOLLYWOOD TOUR Bus tour with state-of-theart audio/video system explores celebrity haunts and sites of famous scandals. TMZ Guides are at the ready to interview celebrities and send footage back to the newsroom. $53–$63. Starline Tours, 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 855.486.9868 Map H13 URBAN SHOPPING ADVENTURES Group tours of Melrose Heights, downtown Fashion District. Transportation, shopping tips, maps, goody bags. $36–$54. 213.683.9715 Map I1


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GO METRO Despite what you may have heard, you can get to many Los Angeles attractions without a car. Metro is the nation’s second-largest public transportation agency, operating 2,200 buses and six rail lines, including a subway that can take you from downtown to Hollywood in about 15 minutes. Whether you’re interested in seeing stars along the legendary Hollywood Walk of Fame, catching rays at Santa Monica Beach or touring any number of L.A. landmarks, Metro can take you there.

Where to Start

Use the Trip Planner at or call 323.GO.METRO for customized travel itineraries. Note that some popular attractions served by Metro Rail are listed to the right.


Metro’s base fare is $1.50. Pay each time you board a Metro bus (drivers don’t carry change, so you’ll need exact fare) or at a self-service ticket vending machine when entering Metro Rail stations. For complete information, check Two children under the age of 5 may travel free with each fare-paying adult. Eating and drinking is not permitted on any Metro bus or train. Note: Metro has installed turnstiles at many Metro Rail stations; others simply operate on the honor system. However, fare inspectors randomly check passengers for valid tickets or passes. You may never be checked, but if you are and you don’t have proof of valid fare, the inspector may issue a citation and you may be fined.


Most bus and rail lines start around 4 a.m. and keep running past midnight. But they’re less frequent in the late evening, so check the timetables at regarding your return trip.

Metro Rail Destinations

Here’s a sampling of attractions that are within easy walking distance of Metro Rail stations: METRO RED/PURPLE LINE Union Station • Olvera Street

Civic Center • Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels • Museum of Contemporary Art • Music Center • Walt Disney Concert Hall 7th Street/Metro Center • Macy’s Plaza (dining, shops) Hollywood/Vine • Capitol Records Tower • Hollywood Walk of Fame • Pantages Theatre Hollywood/Highland • Grauman’s Chinese Theatre • Hollywood & Highland (dining, shops) Universal City • Gibson Amphitheater • Universal CityWalk (dining, shops) • Universal Studios Hollywood North Hollywood • El Portal Center for the Arts • NoHo Arts District (dining, shops, theatres)


Pico • Los Angeles Convention Center • STAPLES Center/L.A. LIVE 103rd Street • Watts Towers Transit Mall • Long Beach Aquarium of the Pacific • Pine Avenue (dining, shops) • Queen Mary


Little Tokyo/Arts District • Japanese American National Museum Memorial Park • Norton Simon Museum Lake Avenue • Pasadena Playhouse


Expo Park/USC Station • California Science Center SEE THE METRO ROUTE MAP ON PAGE 103

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30 things we love Los Angeles

Attending a taping of The Price is Right at CBS Television City in the Fairfax District. 855.447.7423 Expert waxes and manipedis at Frilly Lilly in Santa Monica. 310.260.5522 Fried oyster poutine at The Parish downtown. p. 70 Hatching shark pups at Aquarium of the Pacific in Long Beach p. 86 Hippie-chic tie-dye leather totes at Gum Tree in Hermosa Beach. 310.376.8744 Craft cocktails and flamenco shows at El Cid in Silver Lake. 323.668.0318 The Roman-inspired architecture at Getty Villa in Pacific Palisades. p. 88 The vegetarian Urth Burger at Umamicatessen. p. 72

where in the world






The back bar at Laurel Hardware in West Hollywood. 323.656.6070

Chinese brush painting at the Boone Children’s Gallery at LACMA. p. 88

Specs appeal at Dolce & Gabbana in Beverly Hills. 310.888.8701

Monogrammed clutches at the Clare Vivier flagship in Silver Lake. 323.665.2476

Sweet treats at Bel-Air Bar + Grill on Sepulveda Boulevard. 310.440.5544

Reservation-only whiskey bar £10 at the Montage Beverly Hills. p. 95

Custom-blended body products at Persephenie on South Edinburgh Avenue. 323.658.7507

The honeycomblike bar at Couture in Hollywood. 323.464.2065

Diddy Riese ice cream sandwiches in Westwood. 310.208.0448

Classes in Japanese crafts at Tortoise General Store in Venice. 310.314.8448

The sleek design of Yojisan Sushi in Beverly Hills. 424.245.3799

The clay sauna at Wi Spa in Koreatown. 213.487.2700

California-casual fashions from Minnie Mortimer in Brentwood. 310.472.6201

Gentle hikes in Franklin Canyon Park between the San Fernando Valley and Beverly Hills. 310.858.7272 Custom tailored suits and barber services at Duncan Quinn on West 3rd Street. 323.782.9205

Cold-pressed fruit and veggie juices at Pressed Juicery in Brentwood. 310.451.1010

Luxurious midweek spa days at The Spa at Terranea in Rancho Palos Verdes. 310.265.2740

Fifty shades of denim at 7 for All Mankind in Century City. 310.552.7931

Irish coffee at Tom Bergin’s Tavern on South Fairfax Avenue. p. 13

The Michael’s Burger from Michael’s in Santa Monica. 310.451.0843

Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at UNITED STATES Alaska, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Denver, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul,

Noah’s Ark at the Skirball Cultural Center on Sepulveda Boulevard. p. 89 The cheerful lemon berry cupcake at Georgetown Cupcake on South Robertson Boulevard. 310.893.2866

New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg




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WHERE Los Angeles Magazine January 2013  

Where Los Angeles Magazine gives visitors and locals a portal for essential, immediate and accurate information on the best things to do in...

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