Morocco COUSCOUS CAFÉ Three words to know when checking out this tasty purveyor of North African goodness: #1: Tagine, the heavy clay pot used to slow-cook stews (which are also called tagines). #2: Couscous, the tiny balls of crushed semolina that are optional as an ingredient along with the savory broth, tender vegetables and optional meats, but of which you should avail yourself for the full taste experience – the restaurant’s name should be a hint, after all. Oh, and #3: Cake. Their selection of pastries is quite good, but the Moroccan almond cake is a cut above. 6165 N May (North OKC)
Syria SIMPLY FALAFEL Magid Assaleh is a Syrian immigrant who’s been making great Mediterranean food in Edmond since he opened this restaurant. Given the name, you’d expect the falafel to be excellent – and it is, but so are the kabobs, shawarma and kafta. Having said all that, it’s important to note that you should definitely get the kibbi to start. You won’t find a better version outside of a home kitchen, and depending on how busy the day is, you can probably get Assaleh to tell you a story or two. 343 S Blackwelder (Edmond)
China KWAN’S KITCHEN From the building’s architectural style and decorative details to the contents of the menu, Kwan’s is designed to evoke elements of Chinese cultural heritage. Chef Pak Kwan learned to cook in Guangzhou, near Hong Kong, and brings flavors from that upbringing to dishes including fried rice with chicken and abalone that’s served in a large lotus leaf, and the stunning Crispy Sea Bass that’s immersed in oil for days and then roasted, as well as wondrously smooth bisques. And if your taste runs toward trying a little bit of everything, don’t miss out on the dim sum service during weekend lunch hours. 3031 W Memorial (North OKC)
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405 MAGAZINE MAY 2019
Laos
FOUR J’S As Four J’s Alex Panhguay cheerfully says, “When Laotians get together to have a party, there has to be larb.” A lot goes into the Lao specialty – lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, chili, cilantro, onion, galangal (a relative of ginger with a more citrusy taste), lime juice, fish sauce, mint, ground meat – and a ton of flavor comes out in the results. Just don’t test Bouakham Panhguay when it comes to spice: Her scale goes from 1-10, but she told us she has a regular who gets a 15, and she once fulfilled a request for a 45(!) We didn’t ask what happened to the customer; presumably he’s now the Kwisatz Hadderach. 2920 S Agnew (South OKC)