Welcome to the Fashion Village

Home at Work Welcome to the Fashion Village!

A healthy and thriving live-work environment for fashion producing communities. Urban development and fashion innovation as powerful drivers behind increased welfare and well-being.

Mo Smit

Home at Work is a

Suzanne Loen

COCOCAN

Gideon van Toledo

project supported by

Rana Plaza Bangladesh: spotlights on fashion industries

Bandung fashion city of Indonesia

Fashion manufacturing landscape

Creative industry: fashion design by independent Bandung brands

The mayor of Bandung is an architect with sustainable ambitions for his city

Fashion industry in Indonesia

Sumatra

Distribution of textile and clothing companies by region

$ million West Java - Bandung region

57

Jakarta

17

Jakarta

Even after the decline of some of the larger factories in the 2000s, the Bandung Region has survived as a centre with the majority of factory production.

Central Java East Java

14

Central Java

6

Bali

3

Sumatra

2

Yogyakarta

1

Bali

100

West Java / Bandung Region

3% 2%1%

6%

57%

East Java

Yogyakarta

14%

3%

2%

1% Yogyakarta

East Java

Central Java

Jakarta

West Java - Bandung Region

6%

Sumatra

14%

Bali

17%

West Java - Bandung region Jakarta Central Java East Java Bali Sumatra Yogyakarta

Textile and clothing production by region Even after the decline of some of the larger 57% factories in the 2000s, the Bandung Region in West Java has survived as a fashion centre with the 17% majority of factory production of textile, apparel and footwear.

Source: Clothing Production in Indonesia: A Divided Industry - Adrian Vickers* Faculty of Arts and Social Sciences University of Sydney - Indonesian Textile Association (API)

Facts on Indonesia’s clothing industry • Population (2014): 250.585.668 people (the world’s fourth most populous country) • Employment in clothing industry (2011): 1.3 million people • Clothing % of GDP (2012): 1.56% • Clothing % of export (2010): 6% (2014) 8.9% • Value clothing export (2011): 12.1 billion USD / 9.5 billion EUR • Percentage of the world market for clothing (2014): 2.9% • Clothing factories in Indonesia (2011): 2.980 clothing factories • 90% of the clothing factories are located on Java.

• Minimum wage in Jakarta (2014): 2.4 million Indonesian Rupiah / $212,- / €167,• There are more than 170 foreign companies active in Indonesia’s clothing industry.

Under influence of global mass production of fashion products and the corresponding arrival of large scale factories, originally rural settlements at the periphery of Bandung have rapidly transformed into unplanned and polluted factory villages.

1980’s: arrival of large scale textile and garment factories at the urban periphery

Thousands of workers flock to the factories in search for work

Cigondewah: unplanned and polluted factory village

These factory villages, also called industrial kampungs in Indonesia, have to deal with big spatial and environmental challenges like inadequate (worker) housing, extreme water pollution, over exploitation of groundwater resources, land subsidence and floodings, lack of garbage collection services, degenerated agricultural land and outdated energy systems.

The river is used as a sewer for industrial and household waste

Inadequate and unsafe housing for workers

Public space that looks more like a garbage dump

Polluted agricultural land

In the same time the industrial kampungs are home to a socially and economically tight-knit community. Driven by economic factors original kampung inhabitants and migrant factory workers live side by side.

Former farmers and fishermen nowadays make a living by sorting and trading factory textile waste or have started their own small garment workshops at home. They simultaneously take orders from the big factories and produce for their own small independent fashion brands.

Housing in the industrial kampung is informal and mostly built by local kampung families or entrepreneurs. Many homes are extended with rental rooms for factory workers, shops or workplaces. Various mixed-use housing typologies exist. Over time renting rooms to migrant workers has become an important source of income for the local community.

Worker

mixed-use typologies for working and living Housing Related To Textile Waste (Attached)

Housing Related To Migrant Worker

A House 3

Housing Related To Migrant Worker

A House 4

B House 1

Worker

he workers who lived in the rental house mostly worked at Kahatex Factory; The workers’ of Cigondewah (Center Java, East Java; West Java, etc.); Rental price Rp. 150.000/ month had lived in the rental house since 2000.

Housing Related To Textile Waste (Attached) To Migrant Worker Housing Related To Migrant Worker There areHousing a totalRelated of 7 rental units (2 units on the 1st floor and 5 rooms on the 2nd floor); Majority of the workers worked at There are a total of 6 units, and 2 communal bathroom; Some tenants worked at the factory, some had a family; The rental the factory and trades; 10 years ago the house was originally serves as private house (1st floor), then it changed it’s function house ago) was built on purpose and owned Bapak Haji Andi from RW 12 ; Building’s age was about 5 years. by installing a plywood to rental house; The rental price was Rp 200.000/ month; Renovation was conducted (1 month to repair a damaged wall.

A House 5

A House 6

B House 2

The owner’s name is Pak Ijang ; The building’s age is arround 25 years ; home ownership status; ; It is an industry of clothing and jacket making; Before living in this house, the owner lived around the area of Cigondewah; The house had stood before the owner lived there; The house next to this home industry belongs to the owner’s relative; Textiles for clothes were obtained from Caringin.

n Kahatex Factory; The rental house was built since 20 years ago; The workers and building gondewah area; The rental house was originally a private house.

hed)

Housing Related To Textile Waste (Attached)

B House 4

Housing Related To Textile Waste (Attached)

B House 5

The rental house stands on owner; PTAN land (according to Pak RW 02) with the agreement of “prepared to be evicted if the land The rental house’s owner lived in Kopo; The rental house was taken care by Cigondewah villager who’s related to the was needed.”; Consist of 3 units of rooms; the existence of communal bathroom is not visible in the building; The tenants The house consist of 2 floors, each has 6 units. 2 communal bathroom on each floor. are factory workers.

The home’s business is selling textile from one factory in Karawang, West Java ; Textile partially exported (Korea, China, etc.); total number of workers are 2 people ; The home is occupied by 2 families (10 residents) ; The house was originally functioned as a shop ; Building material and workers are supplied by the owner’s relative from RW 03 ; The house was built 9 years ago ; There was a renovation in 2008.

The rural past of the industrial kampung is still very close to the surface.

Many original villagers are grown up with a circular way of thinking, because they used to live close to nature. This mind-set is very valuable in a time where we need to find answers for a fossil free world and increasing water scarcity. Off-the-grid /self-sustainable living might be a trend in western countries, but in countries like Indonesia it has never been away.

Resilient and self-sustaining rural villages of West-Java live-work environments specialised in textile crafts

Baduy community: self-sustaining rural village for working and living

So, what if local communities, living around textile and garment factories, become respected co-producers of sustainably crafted fashion products and are empowered to turn polluted manufacturing areas into healthy and self-sustaining Fashion Villages?

They could become a healthy, thriving and respected community when given the chance and opportunities to fulfil their aspirations. Therefor they need help to tackle the three biggest challenges of the industrial live-work environment: • • •

polluting and resource-depleting factories inadequate and unsafe housing and workspaces degeneration of agricultural land / lack of green public spaces

approach

New Lanark Cotton Mills and Village (1784) Pioneering corporate social responsible development (Robert Owen)

Welcome to the Fashion Village! A healthy live-work environment for fashion producing communities. Urban development and fashion innovation are the powerful drivers behind increased welfare and well-being.

The Fashion Village targets the overexploitation of water, energy, materials and people by creating a community-based circular production network.

Local entrepreneurs become important co-producers within the fashion supply chain, using the mother factory as a reliable backbone. The local landscape provides resources for fashion production processes while regenerating the eco-system.

A community-based production network The Fashion Village is healthy live-work environment for fashion producing communities.

It functions as a community-based circular production network, tailored for the masscustomisation of sustainable fashion.

27 THE INDEPENDENT KAMPUNG WORKFORCEa

26

THE theTAILORS tailors THE ENTREPRENEUR the entrepreneur

THE TAILOR the tailor

theSEAMSTRESS seamstress &+ THE printman PRINTMAN

THE SALES the sales man ENTREPRENEUR

THE SORTERS the sorters

Image by Gabriela Pe単a Izquierdo

THE TRANSPORTERS the transporters

graduate student Architectural Engineering Faculty of Architecture and the Built Environment Delft University of Technology

Circular design approach Home at Work uses a circular design and cooperative development approach. Creating synergy between working and living.

local skills & expertise

natural resources

industrial flows & resources

waste out waste out

flows in flows in

flows in

flows in (negative) spatial impact

(negative) spatial impact

Peri-urban context asks for circular off-the-grid solutions for water, waste, energy and industrial resources.

renewable resources

flows in

flows in

renewable sources regional ecosystems

renewable resources

flows in

This offers opportunities to boost the local eco-system and flows in create synergy between living and working.

renewable sources regional ecosystems

Scales of the circular Bottom-up transformation strategy poly-centric approach connected with a shared sustainable dream

Scales of the circular poly-centric approach biogas

energy

scarcity wateruses

household

factory

enterprise

pollution

food biopore waste pit

water treatment

watercollector

floodings

2030 > city scarcity rainwater collector

solarpower

Waterstress Cigindewah/ Bandung

food garden

waste water

feacalScales wasteof the circular treatment poly-centric approach biogas

cular proach biogas

energy

scarcity

2020 > industrial kampung wateruses scale of the unit

household

factory

enterprise

pollution

food biopore waste pit

water treatment

watercollector

2015 > unit

floodings

scarcity

time

rainwater collector food

solarpower

waste water treatment

Waterstress Cigindewah/ Bandung

rainwater collector

rainwater collector

healthy city environment

flooding

Cooperative development community cooperative model model

sustainable fashion sustainable development fashion development

sustainable urban development

$ $

urban sustainable development development experts experts

sustainable development housing fund fund community Fashion Village cooperative Cooperative

$ • • • • •

development banks local government local textile factories crowdfunding ngo’s

The replicable cooperative development model of Home at Work will enable different stakeholders to participate and invest in the development.

Fashion Village stepping stones 1

Clean Mother Factory A Clean Mother Factory is a factory that minimised its environmental footprint while being a viable and profitable business. It’s a factory that filters its waste water before it enters the river. It’s a factory that harvests energy and water with its large roof surfaces. It’s a factory that shares its water, waste and energy facilities with the surrounding community. It’s a factory that takes responsibility for decent living conditions for its workers and their families.

2

1c

Fashion Shophouses A Fashion Shophouse is a self-sustaining building for working and living. It contains adequate and affordable worker homes and a collective workspace for local entrepreneurs. The building is constructed by community craftsmen from local materials like textile waste, bamboo and coconut timber. The community-owned building works like a flywheel that instigates the sustainable and inclusive development of existing informal neighborhoods.

3

3

2

Production Gardens Left-over rice paddies and public spaces within the kampung are reprogrammed as regenerative Production Gardens. These public green spaces not only serve the community from an ecological standpoint, storing rainwater and preventing flooding with bamboo forests, but also offer additional benefits such as sources for natural fibers from lotus and other plants, garments dyes from banana trees and ginger roots, and serve as chemical-free waste treatment centers.

1

Fashion Shophouse

top down corporate development

Philipsdorp Eindhoven, 1910

bottom up cooperative development

Coรถperatieve Bouwvereniging Rochdale, Amsterdam, 1920

Circular material innovation > textile enforced concrete

Re-sourcing textile sludge

Re-connecting brick making technique

Re-creating architectural design

Circular material innovation > bamboo building system

> PROTOTYPING

22 // 101

Images by Nadia Remmerswaal graduate student Architectural Engineering Faculty of Architecture and the Built Environment Delft University of Technology

21

The Industrial Phase

Regenerative production gardens

Wetland typologies: Lotus lemon fibre watergarden

Pekarangan Typologies: Pekarangan Playground

Samida Typlogies: Banana Ginger dye and fibre Garden Urban Plantation Typologies: Bamboo Fibre FLood Forest

lake artesian spring

old dug wells

shallow groundwell pumps

shallow groundwell pumps impermeable layer

Images by Nadia Remmerswaal graduate student Architectural Engineering Faculty of Architecture and the Built Environment Delft University of Technology

deep acquifer

Deep well pumps Deep well pumps

New value of the local landscape: resources for sustainable fashion and buildings

Factory roof as solar energy and water harvesting fields.

harvested energy: 196755 kWh per 1000m2 roof per year

a Clean Mother Factory (circular production)

investments

Regenerative Production Gardens (organic fibres and dyes) and water management system

costs to be researched

Production Garden per hectare ± €1.500,-

1 Fashion Shophouse €100.000,(excl. land, prototyping)

circular yields harvested water: 2 million liter per 1000m2 roof per year

Self-sufficiency will make the Fashion Village more resilient and competitive.

A community-based circular production network using the global mother factory and the local landscape as a reliable backbone.

30 ton of bamboo fibres per year per hectare

100 kg of organic dyes per year Fashion Shophouses provide collective workspace for local entrepreneurs and decent homes for (factory) workers and their families:

The long-term horizon enables lower income communities to pay back the loans obtained as monthly rents and decrease the amount they have to pay back to the Fashion Village Fund once they decide to sell their share in the Fashion Village Cooperative.

Limited fashion editions crafted by Fashion Village Cooperative

fabrics

A healthy and productive workforce living close to work.

factory fabric

sales of crops per hectare per year ± €2.500,-

rent of homes and workspace per year per shophouse €3.600,-

revenues

sales of 20.000 t-shirts per year per shophouse €100.000,-

locally rooted fabrics The clean mother factory produces locally rooted fabrics (i.e. bamboo, ramie, soybean) using circular production methods (e.g.

The sales of Fashion Products is used as an economic flywheel for the development of the Fashion Village: €5,- per t-shirt is reinvested in the sustainable development of the Fashion Village.

Fashion Village Fund

raw materials

Fashion Village Cooperative

Fashion Village Cooperative

factory owner Pak Lee local entrepreneurs Dani, Asep & Agung

local kos-kosan owners Ibu Aida & Pak Uya

factory workers Susi & Wati local builders Pak Tatang

local farmer Ibu Iin

T-shirt value case: revenues as a flywheel for transition

shop (€9,39 | 38%) - rent retail space - employees - other costs

Fashion Village (€10,00 | 40%) - sustainable development of the Fashion Village

shop profit (€1,12 | 4%)

global brand (€3,00 | 12%) - transport - online marketing & sales

global brand (€4,62 | 18%) - transport - marketing

global brand profit (€0,63 | 3%)

global brand profit (€0,63 |

taxes (€4,00 | 16%)

taxes (€4,00 | 16%) factory (€4,14 | 17%) - materials (recycled) - other costs

factory(€4,14 | 17%) - materials - other costs

factory profit (€0,52 | 2%)

factory profit (€0,52 | 2%) shirt maker (€2,50| 10%)

shirt maker (€0,58 | 2%)

traditional shirt €25,-

transitional shirt €25,-

Revenues from Fashion products as a flywheel for development How many fair and sustainable Fashion Village t-shirts need to be produced to finance one worker home in a Fashion Shophouse?

A basic calculation • Costs of 1 basic worker home (18m2): 18m2 * €350,- /m2 = €6.300,• Re-investment per t-shirt (€25,-) in the Fashion Village: €5,• Production amount of t-shirts per production line per day: ± 20 t-shirts • Amount of production lines (3 people per line) per Fashion Shophouse: 3 • Production amount of t-shirts per Fashion Shophouse per day: 60 ---------------------------------• This means that €6.300,- / €5,- = 1.260 t-shirts need to be produced to finance 1 home.

• 1.260 t-shirts per home / 60 t-shirts per day = 21 days > 1 month

Fashion Village Lab Current collaboration Communities • Cigondewah community

communities communities

NGO’s • Bandung Creative City Forum (BCCF) • MVO Nederland designers & designers consultants consultants

businesses businesses

A real live testing ground and

Knowledge institutes platform where all parties who • Institut Teknologi Bandung • Delftshare University Teknologi thisof vision from all sectors

are invited to join.

Fashion Lab Home Village at Work

Living Lab

knowledge

knowledge institutes institutes & ngo’s

governments governments

Governments • Kota Bandung • Kelurahan Cigondewah Kaler Businesses • Alliander • Philips Designers & consultants • COCOCAN & partners (Toledo, SL Studio) • Smart City Collective (Krill, SHAU, Emic-K, etc)

Imagine the Fashion Village Bandung in 10 years. Birds sing and children play hide and seek in the bamboo fibre forest. On the riverbank, in one of the collective Production Gardens Ibu Yen and her sister harvest bark for organic textile dyes from the mango trees and pick fruit to sell on the market.

In the vibrant streets you will find beautiful Fashion Shophouses built from locally sourced materials. Inside Pak Asep and his apprentices dye T-shirts with a funky batik print for a sustainable limited fashion collectione. Upstairs factory worker Wati has a decent home and grows herbs and peppers on the spatious gallery.

Thank you very much!

Please join the Fashion Village Lab

You can reach us at: info@cococan.nl www.homeatwork.co

Mo Smit

Home at Work is a

Suzanne Loen

COCOCAN

Gideon van Toledo

project supported by