P E O P L E A RTS H O M E S F O O D C U LT U R E R E C R E AT I O N H I S TO RY FALL 2014
Life in the West Kootenay/Boundary Region
ANYTHING FOR A BUCK
Living the creative life in Thrums
FLYING FREE
Brave New Grapes Boundary growers are betting on the Grand Forks terroir
Frolf is a lot of fun combined with a good walk
THE KOOTENAY WASHINGTON LEAGUE
Our brief flirtation with pro baseball
I’m at the Lake because I want my kids to grow up here. I came because of the small class sizes at the school.
I’m here for the lifestyle and awesome trails.
Check Out Where We’re Living!
Come Home to the Lake ...Christina Lake For more information:
www.christinalake.ca Page 2
ROUTE 3 Fall 2014
PHOTO: JO-ANNE DOUCETTE
Don’t forget the fantastic community spirit!
contents
PUBLISHER Karen Bennett publisher@nelsonstar.com SALES REPRESENTATIVE Chris Hammett route3@grandforksgazette.ca EDITOR & ART DIRECTOR Shelley Ackerman sackerman@telus.net
Anything for a Buck by Jim Sinclair Kate and Jerry Enewold are living the creative life in Thrums, page 5
ROUTE 3 is published by Black Press 250-442-2191 or 1-877-443-2191 Box 700, 7330 2nd Street Grand Forks, B.C. V0H 1H0
Brave New Grapes by Joan Thompson Boundary grape growers are betting on the Grand Forks terroir, page 8
Printed in Canada on recyclable paper. Copyright 2014 by Black Press. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any article, photograph, or artwork without written permission of the publisher is strictly forbidden. The publisher can assume no responsibility for unsolicited material.
Flying Free by Liz Bevan Frolf, or disc golf is a lot of fun combined with a good walk, page 13
Spirits of the West by Will Johnson
Cover photo by Chris Hammett Bill Ahrens of Silvertip Bench Vineyard in Grand Forks with his crop of Pinot Noir grapes.
Winlaw’s Kootenay Country Craft Distillery takes home a gold medal, page 16
Stewards of the Watershed by Graham Watt,
Individuals are making a difference for the health of the land and water, page 19
The Kootenay Washington League by Greg Nesteroff, page 21
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Fall 2014 ROUTE 3
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TIDBITS – a taste of what’s happening in the West Kootenay/Boundary Friendly. Healthy. Community owned.
organic produce hundreds of bulk items prepared foods fresh meat & seafood grocery vitamins & supplements
Capitol Theatre, Nelson Wednesday, Oct 15 The Vinyl Cafe Tour 2014 will feature two brand new Dave and Morley stories and live music and will celebrate the release of Stuart McLean’s new collection of stories on CD. www.capitoltheatre.bc.ca
Open every day 7:30am - 9pm
GRAND FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL
Kootenay Co-op 295 Baker St, Nelson t: 250 354 4077 info@kootenay.coop
www.kootenay.coop
Gyro Park Tuesdays & Fridays to Oct 31 Certified organic produce, jams, fresh baking, local crafts and more. STUART MCLEAN AND THE VINYL CAFE
healthy bodycare products
vis it us on line :
GRAND FORKS FARMERS' MARKET
f
The Adventure Hotel, Nelson Saturday, Oct 18 Over 600 different bottles of wine to be tasted. Executive Chef Adam Duff creates a feast that is talked about year after year. www.newgrandhotel.ca RCAC PERFORMANCE SERIES
Rossland Miners’ Hall Oct. 4, Nov. 7, Feb. 7, April 25 A variety of high quality, professional performances featuring: Tiller's Folly, Lizzy Hoyt, Small World Project, and Wonderheads. rosslandartscouncil.com RAINBOW DERBY
Kaslo, Nov 7-9 Heaviest fish wins! Lots of prizes. www.kaslorainbowderby.weebly. com/ ROSSLAND MOUNTAIN FILM FESTIVAL
Miners’ Hall, Rossland Nov 21–23 This annual high-energy event brings together filmmakers, photographers, artists and multimedia talents. www.rosslandmountainfilm festival.com/ KBRH HEALTH FOUNDATION SNOWFLAKE GALA
Cominco Gym - Trail Memorial Centre, Trail Saturday, Nov 22
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A fabulous evening of dinner, music, dancing and silent auction. Music by Juno nominee Melody Diachun. www.kbrhhealthfoundation.ca GRAND FORKS ART GALLERY ANNUAL WINE TASTING
gallery 2 Art & Heritage Centre Sat, Nov 22 Celebrate the holiday season whilst enjoying sips of fine B.C. wines, organic brews and spirits. Local food producers will present their chocolates, cheese and fine baked goods. www.gallery2grandforks.ca CHRISTMAS LIGHT UP
Downtown Rock Creek Sun, Nov 23, 3pm BOUNDARY ARTISAN CHRISTMAS FAIRE
gallery 2 Art & Heritage Centre, Grand Forks Nov 28–29 Both floors will be filled with beautiful crafts, soft Christmas music and a place to sit and have something to eat. Open late Friday evening until 7 pm and Saturday until 4 pm. REKINDLE THE SPIRIT OF CHRISTMAS
Downtown Rossland Saturday, Dec 6 Our boutique shops will have their doors open with fantastic deals and draws. Reindeer Prance with Santa Claus down Columbia Avenue, and lighting of the Christmas tree ceremony. www.rossland.com/home GRAND FORKS SANTA PARADE
Friday, Dec 5 at 7pm Downtown Grand Forks www.facebook.com/grandforks. parades BLACK UMFOLOSI
Charles Bailey Theatre, Trail Tuesday, Dec 9 Specialising in imbube music, gumboot dance and Zulu dance, they have delighted audiences all over the world. www.trail-arts.com
ARTISANS
Anything
(Worthwhile and Creative)
for a Buck
Kate and Jerry Enewold are living the creative life in Thrums
A
STORY BY
Jerry Enewold, with one of his hand-carved doors.
Jim Sinclair
long the scenic Kootenay River corridor just east of Castlegar sits the area called Thrums, home for a very talented couple. From the practical to the purely artistic, items that are pleasing in visual, aural and tactile ways are created here. Jerry and Kate Enewold have a property that reaches right down to the river and a work space that's just a strong stair-climb from their house. It's a choice set-up that reflects their lifestyle to a tee. It's obviously benefitted from over 40 years of fine tuning. Jerry Enewold, originally from Reno, Nevada came to the Kootenays in the ’60s. He had made the move to dodge the draft and
PHOTO: JIM SINCLAIR
has happily resided in B.C. ever since. Jerry had been deeply involved in painting from an early age. He studied art in school and college; his father was a painter as well. Living in the area as a young family man, he found out it can be tough earning a living as a visual artist, so he went with another aptitude and found employment with Tarry's Woodcraft, and then started his own business and called it Boardwalk Woodwork (www. boardwalkwoodwork.com). "The company's been going since about 1980, making windows and doors and cabinets,” Jerry recalled. “Our motto is, 'Anything for a buck.' Right now we have four employees; we've had as many as, maybe, 20." Business for Jerry, as with so many others in various fields, goes up and down with the economy.
"When there's money around, people are renovating, building. Right now we're having a good year, lot's of work." Jerry's quite happy to live and work on the same property. He's very fond of painting and carving and has combined the two skills in a number of pieces. West Coast First Nations art is something that had captured his interest some time back, and the influence can be noticed in some of his work. "They kind of flow together pretty good," he says of the different creative processes he enjoys so well. One product he's had good success with is custom crafted doors adorned with any number of possible designs, from animals to landscapes… the sky's the limit. The doors suit more than one purpose and that can boost their value, as Jerry explained: ➤
Fall 2014 ROUTE 3
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JIM SINCLAIR WWW.BOARDWALKWOODWORK.COM
Top: Kate Enewold with her violin, made by her husband Jerry. Above: a variety of doors and windows produced by Boardwalk Woodwork.
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ROUTE 3 Fall 2014
"Some people have a hard time buying purely decorative things, but if it's functional and they have a use for it they can justify spending the money for it," he said. "Basically the wood shop dominates my time. Except now I'm 66 and I'm only going to work here another few years then I'm just going to carve and paint." Jerry has his own style and process and they work for him, but the process differs depending on its designation. For example, if it's his own project he's likely to just get at it and see where things go. "A good craftsman works from the general to the particular," he related. "I'm the opposite. I'll start carving a door, I have no idea what I'm doing, making it up as I go." Commissioned pieces, understandably, have more planning involved. Jerry says he'll do sketches for them, and even supply a smaller sample of the ultimate finished product, after all, it may be a pricey commission, maybe into the five-figure range. "People spending that much money want to have some idea of what they're in for," he said. All in all it's a good combination for Jerry, on one hand, the wood shop which is for the most part extremely exacting, and the purely artistic side that allows him an environment in which he can follow his intuition. Jerry has even taken his woodworking to another level, the building of violins. He had made five as of late August, with a sixth nearing completion. The fiddle building nicely demonstrates the symbiotic atmosphere of what goes on around the Enewold home and work environment. Kate is a student of the fiddle and actually has Jerry's number three as her 'daily player.' She took up the instrument a couple of years ago along with a grandson who plays another of Jerry's fiddles. Kate shares Jerry's creative versatility, having an impressive history of
WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/THRUMSLOGICARTDESIGN
formal training to allow her to make the most of her natural talent and energy. The music, for Kate, is something she's gravitated to later in life, something that runs in the family. "My mom, who is an accomplished pianist, used to play often when I was young," she recalled, "and I think I really need to credit her for my love of music and desire to play. She also was a top-notch seamstress who sewed beautiful, trendy things for all of us to wear, so she gave me a good sense of style from an early age." A strong sense of style serves Kate very well in her primary pursuit–that of a silversmith/jeweler. Her craft/art is plied in dedicated quarters adjoining the Boardwalk work space. With a couple of rooms, one of which includes a work bench up against south and west-facing windows, Kate has enough room for her specialized equipment. Variety is evident in Kate's work. The assortment she has on display (www.facebook.com/ThrumsLogicArtDesign) is very impressive, and some of her most recent examples show off the interest she has in combining intricate beadwork with the beautifully worked silver. Kate's artistic talent has a strong hereditary component as well. Her father Zeljko Kujundzic (1920-2003) was a prolific and acclaimed multi-medium artist and a driving force behind Nelson's Kootenay School of Art (KSA), which is now part of Selkirk College. Kate, herself is a KSA alumnus. “Going to KSA was wonderful,” said Kate. “I think Dad would have been really pleased. The quality of instruction was great. An exhibition of Kujundzic's oft-awarded work is showing at Nelson's Touchstones Museum of Art and History until November 9. With well over 40 years together, each doing what they do so well, life is very good for Kate and Jerry Enewold.
A selection of Kate Enewold’s Thrums Logic jewelry.
“Proud to Support Local Producers” Boundary Mall, Grand Forks 250.442.5560 Open 7 days a week 8am - 7pm Monday - Saturday 9am - 6pm Sundays Fall 2014 ROUTE 3
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AGRICULTURE
Brave New Grapes
Boundary grape growers are betting on the Grand Forks terroir Stephen Acres displays his soon-to-be-harvested Frontenac Gris grapes at Legacy Vineyards. Right: The view of the Grand Forks valley from Spencer Hill Vineyard.
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R
STORY BY
Joan Thompson
ows and rows of lush grapevines sweep down a sun-glazed slope that overlooks the Kettle River Valley — not the Similkameen nor the Okanagan. Grand Forks, along with many other non-traditional grape-growing areas in the province, has recently become a magnet for viniculturists. Grape growing is certainly not new to Grand Forks — trellises festooned with vines and fruit are standard fare in the backyards of virtually every home in the valley — but what is new is the interest in viniculture (growing grapes specifically for the production of wine). Enter a new breed of grape growers willing to bet that the legendary terroir of the Boundary could also produce first-rate wine grapes. With the average of four acres of land each and vineyards just now into production, the jury is still out about the feasibility of full-scale wine grape cultivation in the Boundary, but the new grape growers — among them Stephen Acres, Ron Subotin, Bill Ahrens and Scot Stewart —are an astute, tough and optimistic lot. And delighted to introduce us to the world of cool climate viniculture. Stephen Acres hopes to add his own bouquet to his family's storied legacy in the valley with his Legacy Vineyards. After a lifetime in the field of veterinarian epidemiology in Saskatchewan, Acres is up to the challenges the new endeavour brings. “We have marginal conditions for growing grapes here with our severe winters and short growing season, so it behooves the new grower to do their research before investing the $25,000 that is required to plant even an acre of grapes. The most critical decision is choosing the right varietal to plant,
PHOTOS BY
Chris Hammett
especially if you want to grow 'vinifera', that is, any of the classical European varieties such as Merlot, Chardonnay, Reisling, Cabernet, Pinot Noir, Gewurztraminer.” Acres chooses the vinifera that are the early to mid-season ripeners, such as Pinor Noir and Gewurztraminer, which are less vulnerable to the possibility of a late or early season frost. As well, he, like many other growers in the area, experiments with hybrid grapes and rootstock derived from vitis labrusca, the wild fox grapes indigenous to the North American continent such as the Marquette, Frontenac Gris and Marechal Foch that can withstand winter temperatures that reach -36 degrees. Once the grape has been chosen, the site selected, the grower’s success comes down to facilitating the alchemy between sun, soil and water. Apart from sophisticated automatic drip-hose irrigation systems, the day-to-day maintenance of the vines and grapes is largely carried out manually by the owners. Morning rounds are enough to keep the canopy of the vines hedged, cropped, suckered, tucked and thinned to ensure vines are kept light-cropped (not over-burdened with fruit), and maximally exposed to the sun. By mid-season, daily testing for the grapes “brix” levels (percentage of sugar content) is necessary to determine optimum time for harvesting. “Sure, there’s a lot of care and hard work that goes into maintaining a grape crop,” Acre says as he scoots down through the perfectly pruned and spaced rows with clusters of grapes in the early stages of “veraison” (turning colour as they ripen), “but as the French say, wine is not a commodity, it’s a philosophy. In other words, don’t be in this business unless you believe in, and love what you are doing”. ➤
Harvest day at Silvertip Bench Vineyard brings family and friends together from places near and far. Phyllis Stapley of Campbell River (Cheryl Ahren’s mom) top left, and Marjie Hills of Nelson, top right, are just two of approximately 35 helpers who showed up to lend a helping hand with this fall’s harvest. Above: Once the lid is sealed, this grape press at Scot Stewart's Bronze Winery operates strictly on water pressure.
Ron Subotin, owner of Spencer Hill Vineyards, enthusiastically concurs with Acres. “I’m certainly not doing this for the money, I’m doing it for the lifestyle — the exercise, the fresh air, and knowing that I’m growing a product that is clean, non-polluting, and ultimately enjoyed by so many people.” Subotin, who came to Grand Forks via the Okanagan where he supervised the planting of 2000 acres of vineyards for Vincor, the largest producer and marketer of wines in Canada, is excited about breaking new ground for vitis vinifera in Grand Forks. “The soil here in Grand Forks is almost too good for grapes. Grape plants are like a weed so you almost have to find ways to deprive the plant of nourishment in order that its growth not be too vigorous. In some areas of Australia, they practice ‘deficit watering,’ where for periods of the growing season you don’t water your vines, and in Bordeaux, France, where they get 27 inches of rain a year (Grand Forks gets 14, including snow), it is illegal to water your grapes. Here, hardships for Page 10
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the plants are the weird weather events we’ve been having the last few years — like the early frost in 2009 where on October 6 it got to -14 degrees, and some winters, like last year’s, which are cold enough to kill a good proportion of your vines. And God help us when it hails! “But,” as he gestures towards a sun-drenched vineyard that has the best view in the valley, “there are great things about farming in this valley. Sure, due to the limited number of growing degree days (i.e., where the mean temperature is a minimum of 20 degrees C), our grapes are not able to reach the brix level of a Gewurztraminer in the Alsace where they can achieve a sugar content of up to 28%, and we have to be content with 22 or 23%, but arable land is still a fraction of what one would pay for similar land in France or the Okanagan, and vineyards here remain largely pest-free due to the exclusivity of the crop in this valley. And I love the volunteer employees I have here; each year at harvest time my wife brings up a team of colleagues from the local credit union and we can usually pick all the grapes in a day and still have time for a barbecue at the end of it. And considering that you can get three tons of grapes from an acre, they are all entitled to a glass or two of Spencer Hill’s best vintage for accomplishing that amount of work in one day!” Bill Ahrens, over at Silvertip Bench Vineyard, also enjoys the benefits of farming in a small community. “We harvest early — often the middle of September, and with the help of friends and family, the job can be done in a single day. After years as director of Human Resources at the Port Mellon mill on the Sunshine Coast, it was so great to retire to the sunshine and warmth of this friendly valley.” Ahrens’s harvest this year, in addition to some vinifera, will consist of a greater number of hybrids. Due to the notorious fickleness of the Pinot Noir grape (many of which succumbed to last winter's chilliest nights), Ahrens is staking hopes on the increasing variety and quality of hybrid plants now available to North American growers. “I think they are a safer investment, as do the pioneer grape-growers in the valley like Terry Rilkoff who considers hybrids such as Foch “indestructible.” And I think they have the potential, given the phenomenal amount of refinement the hybrid grape has undergone in the last few years, to impact the industry. The Frontenac Gris mixed with the Gewurztraminer, for instance, would make a great-tasting wine.” This is a viewpoint familiar to Scot Stewart, a new vintner in the valley. “It will be up to the small winery like mine (Bronze Winery), to pro-
duce something with the North American grape that will get noticed. I say bring on the Malbecs and the Marquettes — they provide interesting field blends to the wine-tasting experience.” Up until last year, all harvested wine grapes in Grand Forks were shipped within the desired 24 hours of harvesting to wineries in the Okanagan. With the licensing of Stewart’s land-based (estate) winery in 2013, one could hear the sighs of relief by the local growers. Fourteen of the 20 acres on his estate are devoted to fruit and grain, and Stewart also operates a craft distillery — True North Distillery — giving him the cachet of being the only dual licensed winery/distillery operator in B.C. Quite remarkable for someone who had been in the business of engraving and designing jewelry in North Vancouver only a year before! Stewart's business mettle and savviness about winemaking and distilling spirits stems, interestingly enough, from a long association with The Society for Creative Anachronisms. An in-depth study of “meaderies” (wineries that specialize in honey wine, or mead) left
him “well-versed in the cultivation of yeast” and with a tremendous respect for old wine-making techniques. “The wonderful thing about small wineries and craft distilleries is that we can be innovative; there is no point into breaking into an already saturated market with the same-old. Rather, we can aim to use locally sourced ingredients to produce something interesting. My rye fields will allow us to make authentic 100% grain-based whiskey, local beekeepers will be invaluable to our mead production, and local grape growers to our wine.” If your curiosity is piqued, you can preview Stewart’s products and the bounty that our very own grape growers provide at the annual wine-tasting event at the Grand Forks Art Gallery on November 22. And while you are there, do some blind testing to see if that infamous line from the movie “Sideways” holds true for the brave new local blends: “Oh, its flavours, they’re just the most haunting and brilliant and thrilling and subtle and... ancient as the planet.”
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OUTDOOR ADVENTURE
Flying Free Liz Bevan
C
STORY BY
hris Bowman is a Rossland resident and frolf enthusiast. According to him, there is nothing more freeing than stepping out onto the course and getting a disc flying. “It’s completely free,” he said. “I mean, in a monetary sense, you buy your discs and you come out here and it doesn’t cost anything, but you can also come out and you can have 50 people on the course and you’ll never know they are here. It’s a walk through the woods. You can bring your dog, play with as many people as you’d like and it’s a really fun thing to do, both individually and with a large group of people.” The sport Bowman is talking about? Frolf — a term some people may never have heard. The name comes from combining the words Frisbee and golf, and is also known as disc golf. The sport is suited for young and old — anyone who wants to get outdoors and go for a two-hour walk. “There are three- and four-year-olds that I play with and there are 75- to 80-year olds out there all the time,” he said. “You have to be ready to walk four kilometers and be prepared for a hike up and down, but it is a very passive sport that doesn’t demand a lot of physical ability, and you can put your score down as whatever you want.” The game is similar to golf in that the goal is to end with the lowest number of ‘hits’ or throws. Players take turns throwing their discs to get as close to the hole as possible and continue until everyone has thrown ➤
Frolf, or disc golf is a lot of fun combined with a good walk
MICHELLE D'ENTREMONT
Fall 2014 ROUTE 3
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ALL PHOTOS: LIZ BEVAN
Top: Fellow players look on as Chris Bowman throws a driving disc off the tee on the third hole of Rossland’s frolf course at Black Jack Ski Club. Left: Each hole on the Black Jack course is laid out to help players navigate through the bushes and brush. Each hole on the course is a par three and players need to get their disc in the chained hole in the fewest number of shots. Right: Ron Dennett takes his final shot at the second hole on the Black Jack Ski Club frolf course. Dennett gets out to the course as often as he can — sometimes twice a day.
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their discs into the hole, or in the game of frolf, a basket with chains designed to catch a disc. A full game of frolf, or Frisbee golf, lasts 18 holes and there is no limit on the number of players. Bowman has some tips for new players who want to enjoy one of those four-kilometer strolls through the woods and throw a few discs around. “Have you ever snapped a towel?” he asked, miming a disc throw. “It is the same motion. Just go straight and pull it through.” Bowman, along with many other area frolf players, is a member of the Rossland-based Thin Air Disc Golf Club. Members get out to the course as often as they can before the snow falls and skiers show up. The course doubles as Black Jack Ski Club in the winter and Alan Stanley, Thin Air club member, says it is perfectly suited to the leisurely sport. “The course has these long runs and we just play
along those,” he said. “Another course…in the United States is like playing in the bush. Here, if you get a good shot, it’s straight through.” With a little help from the Regional District of Kootenay Boundary, frolfers in Rossland have set up the course with professional-esque tee-off cement pads, and with a little elbow grease from players, the course is ready to go. Like any sport, there are different terms to describe different moves on the frolf course. “Hammering’ is when a player throws a disc overhand and it skips through the air upside down. “There are terms like hyzer and anhyzer that describe the way you turn it on a throw,” explained Stanley. “The disc, on a right hand-back hand, it will naturally go left and that is called a hyzer. If you try and force it to go the other way, then it’s an anhyzer. When the disc hits the chains (on the hole) and comes out, they call that a Dick Cheney.” Whether the disc goes left or right once it is in the air doesn’t matter if you are using the wrong disc for a shot at the hole. There are different discs suited to different positions on the course. “You play with different discs,” said Bowman. “You have a driver, then you have a mid-range disc, which is very similar using a mid-iron in golf and then we have putters, which tend to float a bit more and they are more accurate at short distances.” The differences between the three discs depend on how far you want the shot to go. “It is the shape of the disc itself and the weight of it,” described Bowman. “The driver has a bit of a larger area, which causes it to stay up a bit longer and catch more air. Then the putter is more like a traditional Frisbee, just a little bit smaller.” For those that want to practice their disc throwing techniques and join up with the Thin Air Disc Golf Club, Bowman says any players are more than welcome. “We haven’t set up any sort of a membership fee or anything like that,” he said. “If you are a player and you come out and play, then consider yourself a member.” The club hosts an annual tournament up at Black Jack and this year, it takes place on Oct. 5. Even if it is your first time hitting the frolf links, Bowman says to come on out. “If you want to come out and play, bring your discs, your friends and whatever else you want to bring and we’ll register you,” he said, adding that registration is $25 this year. “You get a burger and a beer lunch with great prizes and we always have tons of fun.” Ymir also has a disc golf course, just along the Salmo River in town, open to anyone who wants to play. The course doesn’t have a full 18-holes, but players can just go around the track twice to get a full game in. It is a bit more rustic than the Rossland course, but still a fun and free way to get a walk and a game in on a sunny afternoon.
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There’s Nothing Like it! To book your ad into the winter issue, contact CHRIS at 1-877-443-2191 or route3@ ANYTHING FOR A BUCK grandforks FLYING FREE gazette.ca or THE KOOTENAY WASHINGTON NATASHA at LEAGUE 250-352-1890 or publications@ westkootenay advertiser.com
ORY ION HIST R E C R E AT C U LT U R E ES FOOD FALL RTS HOM PEOPLE A 2014
Life in the West
y Region Kootenay/Boundar
tive Living the crea life in Thrums
Brave New Grapes rs Boundary growe are betting on the r roi ter Grand Forks
Frolf is a lot of fun combined with a good walk
Golf Granite Pointe, minutes from downtown Nelson
Explore, Dine and Shop Historic Baker Street. A true adventure in itself
This Winter Ski Whitewater or Cat Ski at Baldface Lodge
Our brief flirtation with pro baseball
Visit Touchstones Nelson: Museum of Art & History
Visitor Centre 225 Hall St. Nelson BC V1L 5X4 Ph: (250) 352-3433 Toll Free: 1-877-663-5706 Email: info@discoverNelson.com Web: www.discoverNelson.com Photos by David Gluns
Fall 2014 ROUTE 3
Page 15
FOOD & DRINK
Spirits of the West
Winlaw’s Kootenay Country Craft Distillery takes home a gold medal for Valhalla Vodka Page 16
ROUTE 3 Fall 2014
STORY & PHOTOS BY
Will Johnson
K
ootenay Country to introduce whiskey to their lineup Craft Distillery has by Christmas of 2017. only been open “We’ve done beer and wine since March, but before. We had a strawberry farm already it’s gaining too. The idea came up when we were an international travelling, and Lora started learning reputation as a about the craft distillery movement world class producin the States,” he said. er of artisanal spirits. This summer the “People want to go down to the WInlaw family business took home a corner and meet the guy who made Gold Medal from the Beverage Tasting it. They don’t want to go to some big Institute of Chicago for their original factory. They want to see what he hand-crafted small-batch Valhalla used and talk to the guy,” he said. Vodka. Kevin spent four years studying “I don’t think we realized how big of distillation at the Spirit Institute a competition it was at first,” said Kevin of Puget Sound, where he studied Goodwin, who built and opened the under a master distiller. Winlaw distillery with his wife Lora. “I made friends with him and he “Chicago is one of the hardest intershared a lot of things he’s learned. national competitions. The validation He taught me the art of distillation, from the award and the community helped me recipes, fermentation and makes us feel like this was all worth it.” taught me a lot of trade secrets,” “We went against vodkas all over the he said. world — Poland, Russia, the U.S.,” said Kevin said their vodka is distinct Lora. “We wanted to get feedback befrom the mass-produced product cause you get so many opinions when most consumers are used to. you put a product out there. Just start“The North American palate is Left: Lora and Kevin Goodwin with their handcrafted gin and ing the distillery we didn’t know who pretty boring. We buy vodka to mix to trust, so we wanted to send it to the award-winning Valhalla Vodka. Above: Kevin with the shining with sugar and soda and all this still used to distill the spirits. Right: Lora shows a handfull of local stuff to cover up the taste of terrible industry and hear what they said.” grains used to make their products.. The response was much better than vodka,” he said. “Some people were they could have predicted. like ‘well, it doesn’t work well with Valhalla Vodka was described by the judges — who consisted cranberry’ but it wasn’t meant to drink with cranberry. I can’t make of top-rated mixologists, bartenders and distributors — as having something here that’s going to taste like Smirnoff. We’re not trying “bold aromas of toasty raisin bran and apricot granola with a soft, to make Bombay. We’re trying to make something that’s unique. It dry-yet-fruity medium-to-full body and a honeyed melon, cream, was never meant to taste like anything else.” and delicate pepper finish. Lots of fruit character that will make for Kevin credited much of the success to the ingredients. flavour-packed cocktails.” “The Kootenays have the best ingredients in the world. We’ve Lora and Kevin have a background in organic farming. They got Selkirk Mountain spring water, organic wheat grown from originally decided to open their own distillery — the first in the Creston Valley and malted barley from Armstrong. Any chef would West Kootenay — four years ago. They now have three products tell you if you start with good ingredients it gives you a better on offer: Valhalla Vodka, gin, and a martini-style specialty vodka chance. That’s why we feel very blessed to be working in the flavoured with tarragon, cucumber and black currants. They plan Kootenays.” ➤
Fall 2014 ROUTE 3
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ROUTE 3 Fall 2014
Lora and Kevin were especially thrilled to team up with Treasure Life Farms near Creston, which is where they procure their wheat. “We went to the Pennywise and put in an ad. After the ad stopped running this guy called and said ‘somebody told me you’re looking for grain’. Turns out he found old heirloom variety seeds at the University of Edmonton.” The farmer planted a small plot and now has 600 acres of the grain. Their stores are kept in wooden silos to maintain the moisture and integrity of the grain. “The variety of wheat we use is called Marquis, which was originally developed in the Fraser Valley in 1890. Most wheats in North America come from that base genetically or have been cross-bred. Their dream was to make pastry and bread flour, but when they heard about us heard about us they figured it would be a perfect fit.” Both Kevin and Lora said teaming up with Treasure Life Farms was a stroke of luck. “A lot of our quality comes from the flavour of the wheat. It’s got a real nuttiness to it.” But getting the distillery up and running was a labour-intensive, long-term process for the pair. “There had never been a commercial distillery in the Kootenays before, so when we started talking about it we weren’t even sure where to start. We had a lot of nervous, sleepless nights where we’d borrowed all this money and were thinking ‘is this going to work?’ We’ve got all our eggs in one basket,” he said. But ever since the award, they’ve been struggling to keep up with demand and have sold out of a number of their batches. They’re anticipating that they will need to hire new staff soon, though they don’t want to grow to fast. “We want to stay small and welcoming. We don’t want to get too big,” said Lora. “All of our spirits are hand-crafted and made with love.” Kevin said the distillery is a fulfillment of a dream. “When we first threw this idea out to our friends, they were like ‘are you crazy?’ Even the woman at the feed store was like ‘you can’t just open a distillery in the Kootenays’. And I was like well, actually you can. My father always says this isn’t a dress rehearsal. This is your life. So you have to go for it. Take a risk. If you don’t do it you may be thirty years down the road and go ‘I really wanted to do that’. It was a crazy idea, but we’re trying to do it.” You can find Kootenay Country products in rural agency stores in the Slocan Valley, Thrums, Glade, Balfour, Crawford Bay and Wynndel, in private liquor stores in Nelson (Nelson Liquor, The Hume Liquor Boutique, and the New Grand Liquor), Castlegar (Bubblee's, Johnnies Groceries), Salmo (The Silver $ ) and Creston ( Jimmy's Pub Cold Beer and Wine and The Kokanee Liquor Store). Restaurants such as Bibo's, The Lions Head Pub, Jimmys Pub, Valley View Golf Course and The Dam Inn also serve their products. The tasting room is open from 12 to 6 p.m., Tuesday to Saturday, and you can purchase bottles there as well. Kevin and Lora are constantly trying new flavors of vodka and you can find those in the tasting room. They currently have elderflower, and will have huckleberry, ginger and cinnamon in time for Thanksgiving. For more information on Kootenay Country Craft Distillery visit kootenaycountry.ca.
SUSTAINABILITY
STORY BY Graham
T
Watt
he Kettle River is a treasure to the many who swim, paddle, fish, or depend on the water flowing here. And keeping it clean and flowing depends on people who are actively working to care for it. Early one morning I set out with rancher Doug Fossen to tour the water stewardship projects on his ranch in the hills west of Rock Creek. Our first stop was a wetland on a stream that Fossen has fenced to control cattle access. “Now that the cows can only get to the stream in two spots, the water is cooler, it’s shaded, there’s more grass and shrubs and the riparian area continues to improve,” Fossen explained. This was the first of three visits to residents of the Kettle River watershed who, in their own way, are stewards of the land, the water, and the wildlife. I needed some answers to help the Regional District plan for the future of the Kettle River. What was stewardship to them? What were they trying to achieve, and what were some of the barriers? And why did they spend so much time and money trying to take care of nature?
Doug Fossen with his new centre-pivot irrigation system on his corn field.
Up the hill we viewed what seemed to be a wetland, fringed with cattails and tall grasses. It was actually a constructed dugout for watering cattle that was fenced to protect the shoreline. “We have about 260 cow/calf pairs right now,” said Fossen. “When they come home from the range, if we don’t manage them they can damage the riparian area around the dugouts, turning them into a muckhole.” It turns out that the riparian area, the fringe of vegetation around streams, ponds and wetlands, is vital for filtering and cooling the water, and provides habitat for more species than any other ecosystem around here. Wetlands also store and filter water and recharge groundwater, in addition to being critical habitat for many species. So landowners that protect the riparian areas are making a big difference for nature as well as their own water supply. Up the hillside, Fossen stopped to inspect a pump before we visited the new efficient centre-pivot irrigation system on the corn field. “We used to run this pump all the time and move the line irrigation every day,” he said. “Now we are down to four days per week with much less water, less labour.” ➤
Individuals are making a difference for the health of the land and the Kettle River Fall 2014 ROUTE 3
Page 19
GRAHAM WATT
Stewards of the Watershed
CAVAN GATES
GRAHAM WATT
Left: Bear Brandow talks about the health of land, water and wildlife on the shores of the Kettle River. Right: Jane and Fred Marshall at their home on Bauer Creek Ranch.
The irrigation project was supported by Environmental Farm Plan, which offers cost sharing on projects that provide benefits like range health to farmers, and cleaner water and improved biological diversity for society as a whole. Some of the fencing and other projects have been paid for by Ducks Unlimited and other funders. “These are good programs,” said Fossen. “But not all landowners get into it because they have to pay up front, have to have the time to do it, and still have to pay the forty percent. That can be a stretch for a lot of farms, especially as they are maxed out later in the season.” What could change the economics of farm stewardship for the better? “Higher food prices getting to farmers— instead of looking for the cheapest food, society needs to realize what it costs to produce it and take care of the land.” Overall, Fossen has installed dozens of water projects and range improvements, which has led to healthier land and a healthier bottom line. “Healthy range and access to good water mean the cows are healthier and gain more weight.”
H
ealth of the land is a theme taken to heart by Fred and Jane Marshall, owners of Bauer Creek Ranch north of Midway. “We only run eighteen head (of cattle) on all these acres of pasture, managing the grazing system so each only gets grazed part of the season, and a different time the next year,” said Fred Marshall as we drove into a lush pasture high on the property. Page 20
ROUTE 3 Fall 2014
The Marshalls also selectively log their forest and woodlot, cutting a portion of a different stand every second year. This has impressive results, with a forest canopy stretching from the homestead to the hills around the land, broken only by pastures and well maintained roads. Fred also works off the ranch as a forestry consultant and university instructor, widely sharing the ethics and practice of land stewardship. Even more impressive is the protection the Marshalls provide for Bauer Creek. “Everything we do is about protecting the water — healthy forests, healthy pastures, healthy soils, and fenced riparian areas. All of the streams are fenced above the intakes for irrigation and above our home,” said Fred. As a result, a lush, cool forest shelters the many ponds and wetlands along Bauer Creek. I asked Fred if he gets any recognition for his stewardship in the market for his cows. “Not really,” he reflected. “Sure they’ve gained well and look healthy, but the price doesn’t really reflect it.”
F
or guide and outfitter Bear Brandow, stewardship is about taking care of the wildlife and the land they depend on. “I have deep respect for the wild animals,” said Brandow. “I live and work in the bush, and I just know that I have to give back.” Brandow gives back by taking care of animals and their habitat. He provides food during deep snows, and twice a year he helps maintain the water level in the wetland by operating a pump and water intake at Boothman’s Oxbow Provincial Park east of Grand Forks. “This is something that Jim Zibin started
years back. I just go out for a week in spring and fall to run the pump and help maintain the intake — and I don’t even hunt ducks!” Brandow has also led Earth Day cleanups of backroad dumping sites for twenty years. “It feels great to clean up a site where people have been dumping garbage, but it really sucks we even have to do it.” I walked with Brandow to the shores of the Kettle River near Grand Forks where he grew up. We talked frankly about the plight of the world and how to get more people involved in stewardship. “We tried for years to get more people out on Earth Day, and it’s always the same small group.” Brandow says he is concerned about global issues like increasing population, water use and destruction of wetlands and natural areas. “The Okanagan alone has lost 85% of its wetlands. The way the world’s going, we need to all pitch in more to take care of things. I’m not seeing enough of it.” Stewardship originally meant taking care of someone else’s property. Now it also means taking care of the common good, for clean water, a liveable climate, and for future generations. It can sometimes help with the bottom line, but more often than not it takes a great commitment to make it work. So why does Brandow do it? “At the end of the day, I don’t know… I guess I know that it’s something I just have to do.” Graham Watt is coordinator of the Kettle River Watershed Management Plan for the Regional District of Kootenay Boundary and is working with a Stakeholder Advisory Group of people from across the region to develop the plan.
HISTORY BY
Greg Nesteroff
PHOTO: COURTESY ROSSLAND HISTORICAL MUSEUM ASSOCIATION
Rossland’s baseball grounds at Black Bear pond, showing the Black Bear working of the Le Roi mine, compressor and ore bins. Today this is the site of the museum and Highway 3B.
THE KOOTENAY WASHINGTON LEAGUE The story of our brief flirtation with pro baseball
I
n 1897, Rossland and Kaslo residents could do something no one else in West Kootenay has been able to before or since: root for their own professional baseball teams. Those places, along with Spokane, made up the short-lived Kootenay-Washington association — also known as the Northwestern International league, Spokane and Kootenay league, and British Columbia-Washington league. Founded that April in Kaslo, the league was originally expected to include a team from Nelson, but the club folded without playing a single game for lack of a suitable field. Trail and Sandon were suggested as possible replacements, but it didn’t happen. Two members of the league executive are well-remembered today but not for their association with baseball: Rossland’s founder, Ross Thompson, was president and Nelson’s first mayor, John Houston, was vice-president. The schedule called for each club to play 44 games between May 24 and September 15. Players were recruited locally and from out of town, but it’s unclear if they negotiated individual contracts. Many held other jobs, including the league’s most noteworthy player, Kaslo pitcher-manager George (Chief ) Borchers, described by Spokane baseball historian Jim Price as a “hard-drinking, hell-raising young right-hander.” He played 14 games in the majors with Chicago and Louisville between 1888 and 1895 and had been arrested several times for being drunk and disorderly. When he wasn’t running Kaslo’s
team, he had a newsstand and tobacco shop. Other notables included Kaslo pitcher Howard Nash and third baseman Ed (Trilby) Rankin, both formerly of the Portland Monograms; shortstop Owney Patton, who had a long minor league career all over the US; and Spokane first baseman Leslie Belt, son of the city’s mayor. Kaslo’s home field was on a hill overlooking the town, which had previously been a “wilderness of stumps.” (It’s roughly where the high school field is today.) Citizens raised $2,400 to support the club before it incorporated and issued $10,000 in stock. The team’s uniforms were white with blue trim. Rossland, meanwhile, played on the Black Bear sporting grounds, approximately where the museum parking lot and Highway 3B are now. The grandstand accommodated 700 with bleacher seating for another 200. The team’s uniforms were gray with emerald green caps, stockings, and belts “in deference to the wishes of the players. They are all Irishmen.” Spokane played at Twickenham Park, later renamed Natatorium Park, which closed in 1968. Its uniforms were Yale gray with maroon trim and “Spokane” in large letters across the breast. The teams didn’t have official nicknames, although Rossland was sometimes informally called the Miners. Kaslo’s newspaper, The Kootenaian, put up a “handsome silver cup, standing 22 inches high” for the league championship, with an eagle and beaver engraved on it to symbolize the US and Canada. Opening day saw Spokane beat host Kaslo 17-15 in a match played ➤
Fall 2014 ROUTE 3
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before 1,000 to 1,800 people, depending on the estimate — virtually the city’s entire population. According to the Rossland Miner, “The grandstand was crowded, a very large proportion of the occupants being ladies, whose bright frocks and beaming countenances were decidedly effective.” Gate receipts came to over $800 — well in excess of $20,000 in today’s currency. Visiting clubs were guaranteed $50 per game or 50 per cent of the take. Ticket prices varied: Spokane charged 25 cents with ladies admitted free to the grandstand, while Kaslo charged 50 cents for bleacher seats and $1 for the grandstand, and Rossland 25 and 50 cents respectively. Spokane won its first This photo of an unidentified early Rossland ball player was probably taken a few years seven games, while Kaslo and after the Kootenay Washington league Rossland went winless. Then folded. two Spokane players, Eddie Marshall and Al Arneson, defected to Rossland. Spokane and Kaslo both protested, but the matter was resolved when Spokane’s manager agreed the two could stay, provided Arneson paid an old debt. It didn’t help: by mid-July, Kaslo and Spokane were neck-in-neck in the standings, with win-loss records of 12-8 and 11-7 respectively, while Rossland lagged far behind at 5-13. At that point, two Rossland players — pitcher George Baker and third baseman Marshall — allegedly threw a game against Spokane, although their motive wasn’t clear. In the eighth inning, Spokane scored six runs, en route to a 13-9 win. “It was the most disgusting exhibition ever seen on a ball field,” The Kootenaian fumed. “The spectators hissed and cried shame, but the crooked players continued indifferent, even when those present left their seats and the grounds and went home.” The Rossland Miner was more forgiving. It published a letter from a third player denying any involvement in the scheme and added the team’s finances had always been poor, with Ross Thompson personally out of pocket $1,600. After that, Rossland folded, and with more than half the schedule remaining, the league followed suit. Although Kaslo had a slightly better winning percentage, Spokane claimed it deserved the Kootenaian Cup based on a forfeit against Rossland. Kootenaian editor and trophy trustee David W. King disagreed. Talk of a Spokane-Kaslo championship series came to naught. What happened to the cup — then on display in Spokane — is unknown. It may yet turn up, a reminder of West Kootenay’s brief flirtation with pro ball. — With thanks to Jim Price and Peter A. Watson
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