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Bienvenidos Living la vida local

2013 Summer Guide to Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

Legendary art markets Farmers and ranchers Day trips from Santa Fe Northern pueblos

The Santa Fe New Mexican |

DAVID JOHNS Reanimation. 60 x 76, acrylic on canvas

Frank Buffalo Hyde • T C Cannon • Bunky Echo Hawk • John Feodorov • Anita Fields Edgar Heap of Birds • David Johns • Steven Paul Judd • Armond Lara • George Longfish N. Scott Momaday • George Morrison • Robert Rauschenberg • Ramona Sakiestewa Roxanne Swentzell among others

native vanguard CO NT E MP O R AR Y M AS T ERS July 26 – August 23

435 South Guadalupe Street, Santa Fe, NM 505 982-8111


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Plains Indian Beadwork • Navajo Textiles • Pueblo Pottery Navajo and Pueblo Jewelry • American Indian Baskets Cowboy Gear • Western Movie Memorabilia • Paintings And other small pieces of Western History

Proud Sponsor of the 15th Annual Great Southwestern Antique Show 4000 Central SE, Nob Hill, Albuquerque, NM


Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico



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Listen closely…. That’s the sound of winning flowing through 61,000 sq. ft. of Vegas-style gaming action, all within the heart of the majestic Desert Southwest. With over 1,200 slot machines, 18 gaming tables, a plush, friendly poker room and weekly slot and table tournaments, we’re Santa Fe’s playground and we’re waiting for you! Stay the weekend and experience Buffalo Thunder Resort & Casino’s unique Santa Fe accommodations that were designed with your ultimate comfort and luxury in mind.

30 Buffalo thundeR tRail santa fe, nM


Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico



ADVENTURES IN HISTORY! Take the family on an trip to New Mexico’s past! The “Ranch of the Swallows” in Santa Fe is an outdoor living history museum, where costumed villagers and hands-on activities make history exciting!

Children 12 & under are ALWAYS admitted free SPECIAL WEEKEND EVENTS: May 18-19

Fiber Arts Festival: From Sheep to Blanket

June 1-2

Spring Festival & Children’s Fair

June 22-23

Herb & Lavender Fair

July 6-7

Santa Fe Wine Festival

July 20-21

¡Viva México! Celebration

August 3-4

Summer Festival and Territorial Law & Order

August 24-25 Survival: New Mexico Aug 31-Sep 1 Fiesta de los Niños: A Children’s Celebration Sept 21-22

Santa Fe Renaissance Fair

Oct 5-6

Harvest Festival Ask about free wagon rides! Free archery at many events!

General Admission/Self-Guided Tours: June through September Wednesday - Sunday, 10 am to 4 pm Just south of Santa Fe: I-25 Exit 276

505-471-2261 WWW.GOLONDRINAS.ORG Programs funded in part by the Santa Fe Arts Commission and 1% Lodgers Tax, The Santa Fe County Lodgers’ Tax Advisory Board, New Mexico Arts and New Mexico Humanities Council


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Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico



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Las Vegas, New Mexico Bridge Street

© Andy Kingsbury

© Andy Kingsbury


Montezuma Castle



© Andy Kingsbury

Hermit s Peak

Gene Torres Golf Course





Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


Bienvenidos Pu b l i s h e d May 19, 2013

2013 Summer Guide to Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

inside living la vida local 12

Where to park in downtown Santa Fe



Five legendary art markets open and close the summer season

35 Santa Fe Farmers Market firmly rooted in the Railyard


What’s new at the museums of New Mexico


Organic sheep ranchers graze flock on grassy mountain


Mr. G’s produce is coveted by all

18 A historic railway, professional rodeo and LANL’s anniversary 20

Music from Angel Fire and New Mexico Jazz Festival fill the air

Cooking schools, culinary tours add spice to life

46 Artisanal cheesemakers thank Spanish for introducing goats

23 Slow Food Santa Fe and Delicious New Mexico

50 Apple orchards reflect generations of settlement, migration

24 Books: Two whodunits with attitude and atmosphere

54 In New Mexico, chile is serious business

25 Downtown map

58 A market-fresh meal to make at home

Cover photo




Art department

Advertising sales

Gene Peach Molly Manzanares of Shepherd’s Lamb moves her sheep in Carson National Forest

Robin Martin

Rob Dean

advertising director Tamara Hand 505-986-3007 marketing director Monica Taylor 505-995-3888 classified adv. manager Amy Fleeson 505-995-3884

manager Scott Fowler, Dale Deforest, Elspeth Hilbert advertising layout Rick Artiaga

Cover design

creative director Deborah Villa 505-986-3027 magazine editor Pat West-Barker 505-986-3052 copy editor Sandy Nelson, Kris Ota

Art Trujillo, 505-995-3852 Cristina Iverson, 505-995-3830 Mike Flores, 505-995-3840 Wendy Ortega, 505-995-3892 Stephanie Green, 505-995-3825 nationals account manager Rob Newlin, 505-995-3841

Deborah Villa


Ginny Sohn Editor


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On the menu, off the farm: Restaurants that source locally


New Mexico’s wineries recultivating deep roots, long tradition


Farming revival underway in Northern New Mexico pueblos

98 Atmospheric patios are quiet havens for in-town dining


Pueblo buffalo herds put new spin on old staple

102 Santa Fe Botanical Garden at Museum Hill a secret no more


Pueblo Feast Days a gift to visitors

106 World premieres and old favorites share classical season stage


Pueblo Feast Day calendar and rules of etiquette

108 St. John’s College is setting for annual outdoor music festival

77 Eight Northern Pueblos map


O’Keeffe’s reflections on land, architecture, icons

86 Day trips to Abiquiú, Tent Rocks and Ojo Caliente


Northern New Mexico art museums

90 Los Alamos Homestead Tour honors displaced landowners


Calendar of events for summer 2013






technology director Michael Campbell

operations director Al Waldron assistant production director Tim Cramer prepress manager Dan Gomez press manager Larry Quintana packaging manager Brian Schultz

circulation manager Michael Reichard distribution coordinator Reggie Perez

digital development Natalie Guillén

office: 202 E. Marcy St. hours: 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday-Friday advertising information: 505-995-3852 delivery: 505-986-3010, 800-873-3372 for copies of this magazine, call 505-428-7622 or email

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico






















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Santa Fe Pick-up Route Santa Fe Pickup Stop Plaza Park




H. RAILYARD PARKING Camino de la Familia and Paseo de Peralta Surface parking includes 675 spaces Hours: Open 24 hours / 7 days week Rates: $1/hour

G. CANYON ROAD LOT 761 Canyon Road Surface lot includes 50 spaces (2 disabled spaces) Hours: Open 24 hours / 7 days week Lot serviced by pay and display machine Rates: $1.80/hour; $9 maximum



Ca nyo nR oad

Santa Fe Pick-up shuttles run every 20 minutes (pending traffic and weather conditions) Monday through Friday - 6:30 am to 6:30 pm Saturday - 7:30 am to 6:30 pm EP ALA No service on Sunday. E ALAM CE ED A AV ST E

Railroad North Railyard & Park


Point of Interest

Museum of Contemporary Native Arts

Palace of the Governor's


Downtown area

Public Access Parking Lot


New Mexico History ARK EP Museum YD

Public Access Parking Garage

His tor ic

r Santa Fe Rive


Parking Facilities


F. ARCHDIOCESE LOT 251 E. Alameda Street Surface lot includes 174 spaces (5 disabled spaces) Hours: Open 24 hours / 7 days week. Lot serviced with 3 paystations Rates: $2/hour; $10 maximum (Lot accommodates RVs and buses for an additional fee)







New Mexico Museum of Art

Plaza Park Detail





C. SANTA FE COMMUNITY CONVENTION CENTER 119 S. Federal Place Bi-level underground parking garage includes 522 spaces (13 disabled spaces) Hours: Monday through Saturday, 6 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Sunday, 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Rates: $2/hour; $10 maximum **









Georgia O'Keeffe Museum

E. CATHEDRAL LOT 131 Cathedral Place Surface lot includes 172 spaces (7 disabled spaces) Hours: Open 24 hours / 7 days week. Lot serviced by 2 paystations Rates: $2/hour; $10 maximum














Museum of Contemporary Native Arts










B. SANDOVAL GARAGE 216 W. San Francisco Street Multi-level aboveground parking garage includes 404 spaces (8 disabled spaces) Hours: Monday through Saturday, 6 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 7 a.m. to 11 p.m.* Rates: $2/hour; $10 maximum **















E To uri Info C st en W M ter A RC YS T


D. WATER STREET LOT 102 E. Water Street Surface lot includes 156 spaces (4 disabled spaces) Hours: Monday through Saturday, 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.* Rates: $2/hour; $10 maximum











Georgia O'Keeffe Museum










A. RAILYARD GARAGE 503 Camino de la Familia Tri-level underground parking garage includes 404 spaces (15 disabled spaces) Hours: Open daily, 6 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Rates: $1.89/hour; $5.25 maximum


























1 inch = 900 feet











El Museo Cultural de Santa Fe






  


















Parking in Downtown Santa Fe









Sa Ra nt i aF l y ar e d



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F IF Feb. 2012 - City of Santa Fe GIS Division - JDG

* Facility closes one hour earlier between November and May. ** Rates vary during special events.





Creating Beauty at Rusty Kirkland, DDS

delivering personalized attention by listening to your needs

505.982.2578 2905


Pa r k






providing a high-quality experience in a low-pressure dental practice 200,






Showing Historic Pueblo Pottery for Your Home LYN A FOX FINE PUEBLO POTTERY 505.577.0835 w 200-C Canyon Road, Santa Fe, NM 87501 Inside John B. Strong Fine Art Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico



Traditional Spanish Market

Legendary art markets

The 62nd annual Traditional Spanish Market takes over the historic Santa Fe Plaza on July 27 and 28. The weekend begins Friday night (July 26) with the Spanish Market Preview Party for members only at the Community Convention Center, followed by the market on the Plaza Saturday and Sunday. Admission is free. For tickets to the preview party, memberships in the Spanish Colonial Arts Society, and information about other Spanish Market events, call 505-982-2226 or visit

Contemporary Hispanic Market

By Kay Lockridge

The weekend of July 27-28 also brings the 26th annual Contemporary Hispanic Market, held on Lincoln Avenue adjacent to the Plaza. The event begins with the Preview Night Party at the Community Convention Center on Friday evening, July 26. This event, as well as the two-day market, is free. For information about the Contemporary Hispanic Market, call 505-296-2749 or visit

Gene Peach

International Folk Art Market The International Folk Art Market Santa Fe celebrates its 10th anniversary the weekend of July 12-14 at Milner Plaza on Museum Hill (Camino Lejo). More than 200 artists from 60 nations gather Friday night (July 12) for the opening party, followed by the market on Saturday and Sunday (July 13-14). Free shuttles provide transportation from designated parking sites to Museum Hill throughout the event. For prices, tickets and more information about the many activities, call 505-992-7600 or visit

Kitty Leaken

Native Treasures Indian Arts Festival The ninth annual Native Treasures Indian Arts Festival, sponsored by the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture, kicks off the summer season over Memorial Day weekend. Featuring more than 200 artists from approximately 40 tribes and pueblos, this year’s event honors Santa Clara potter and sculptor Tammy Garcia, who is the 2013 Native Treasures Living Treasure. The festival is held at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center, beginning Friday night (May 24) with the Honoring Ceremony and benefit cocktail party at which special art pieces will be available for sale. Admission to the market is $10 Saturday (May 25) and free on Sunday (May 26). For tickets to the Friday night benefit and more information, call 505-982-7799, Ext. 3, or visit

Gene Peach

Robert Smith

Indian Market The summer art market season ends with the worldrenowned Santa Fe Indian Market Week, beginning Monday, August 12, and continuing through the weekend of August 17-18. Special events are held daily at various sites throughout the city, culminating Friday (August 16) with a luncheon at which the major awards, including Best of Show, are presented. The Friday event, open to ticketholders only, is held at the Community Convention Center, while the 92nd two-day Indian Market takes place on the Plaza and is free. Indian Market is sponsored by the Southwest Association for Indian Arts. Visit or call 505-983-5220 for information about the complete Indian Market Week calendar and to buy tickets for special events. 14

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2 0 1 3 SUMMER S E A S O N




All shows take place at The Lensic, Santa Fe’s Performing Arts Center Groups of 10 or more receive discounts of up to 40%! Call 505-983-5591 for more information.

Tickets: 505-988-1234 CORPORATE SPONSORS 





Melville Hankins

Family Foundation

Partially funded by the City of Santa Fe Arts Commission and the 1% Lodgers Tax, and made possible in part by New Mexico Arts, a Division of the Department of Cultural Affairs, and the National Endowment for the Arts. Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico



Investment Management


Mont St. Michel and Shiprock: Photographs by William Clift

museum exhibitions

Master photographer and Santa Fe resident William Clift has been photographing Shiprock — a “winged rock” dominating the high-desert plain of the Navajo Nation in northwestern New Mexico — and Mont St. Michel — a tidal island and monastery floating between the border of Brittany and Normandy since the 6th century — for almost 40 years. The traveling exhibition of more than 70 photographs shares Clift’s ongoing exploration of the two places — outwardly diverse but with a shared spiritual and environmental significance to those who reside within their shadows — and “demonstrates the kind of seeing that is possible with sustained concentration,” according to Katherine Ware, curator of photography at the New Mexico Museum of Art. A corresponding 160-page book, including 132 images of the two monolithic sites and poems by Paul Kane, is available for purchase through

William Clift Shiprock 1975 Gelatin silver print Courtesy William Clift

William Clift Mont St. Michel 1997 Gelatin silver print Courtesy William Clift

Mont St. Michel and Shiprock Through September 8, 2013. The New Mexico Museum of Art 107 W. Palace Ave. For more information: 505-476-5072

What’s New in New: Recent Acquisitions A play on the name of the gallery’s namesake, Cherokee fashion designer Lloyd Kiva New, this annual exhibit of new acquisitions by the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture focuses on modern and contemporary Native art created between 1968 and 2012. The approximately three dozen works on display include paintings, monotypes, poetry and sculpture by such artists as Samuel Manymules, Marla Allison, David Bradley and Fritz Scholder. The exhibit also introduces a newly dedicated display case featuring some of the more than 50 Native works added to the museum’s permanent collection over the past 30 years by the Friends of Indian Art. Two additional exhibits —They Wove for Horses: Diné Saddle Blankets and Woven Identities, a major exhibition of American Indian baskets — also continue through the year.

What’s New in New

Through December 30, 2013. Museum of Indian Arts & Culture Camino Lejo, Museum Hill For more information: 505-476-1250

Cowboys Real and Imagined Through March 16, 2014. New Mexico History Museum 113 Lincoln Ave. For more information: 505-476-5200

Caroline Carpio Isleta Pueblo River of Life 2006 Bronze jar with turquoise bead inlay


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Cowboys Real and Imagined

Our location on the Plaza also has museum quality antique and contemporary Native art

Cows under a windmill, undated. Palace of the Governors Photo Archives HP.2007.20.614.

Unidentified cowboy on bucking horse, ca. 1922-1934. Tex Austin Collection. Palace of the Governors Photo Archives 200061.

What is a cowboy? According to B. Byron Price, director of the Charles M. Russell Center for the Study of Art of the American West and guest curator of Cowboys Real and Imagined, the exhibit’s answer to the question “is a verb, an adjective, a noun, an adverb.” Comprised of photographs and artifacts from the museum’s collections — including cowboy clothing and gear from the 18th century to the present, a chuck wagon, dude ranch and advertising ephemera — the show explores and contrasts the rough-and-ready realities of cowboy life with the manufactured mystique selling everything from beer to boots to beans. Programming to complement the exhibit runs through the year and includes cowboy movie nights, music, lectures (including the story of gay rodeo) and a Wild West Weekend (August 10 and 11) featuring Dutch oven cooking demonstrations, poets, trick ropers and traditional cowboy songs. A fine-press reprint of Jack Thorp’s Songs of the Cowboys, first published in 1908, will also be available for purchase from the Palace Press.

Weaving: Master Weaver Sagebrush Hill Woman Reversible Red Blazer: Pendleton Blanket

Pots – Left: 1880s Zuni Olla u Right: c.1910 Acoma Parrot Olla

Native Jackets u On The Plaza u Santa Fe, New Mexico 505-984-0005 u 888-420-0005 u

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico



‘Take a ride on the railroad’

Special exhibits, lectures mark LANL’s 70th anniversary

The Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad rolls through some of northwest New Mexico’s and southern Colorado’s most scenic areas, including the 10,015-foot high Cumbres Pass and the 800-foot-deep Toltec Gorge. The narrow-gauge railroad, designated a National Historic Landmark last fall, operates from May 25 to October 20. Special kid-friendly excursions, called the “Cinder Bear Express,” run every Thursday from July 11 through August 15. For schedule and tickets, call 888-286-2737 or visit

‘Ride ’em cowboy!’ One of the top 60 Professional Rodeo Cowboys Association events in the U.S., Rodeo de Santa Fe kicks off its 64th season with a parade through downtown Santa Fe on June 15. The gates open at the rodeo grounds — 3237 Rodeo Road (at Richards Ave.) — on June 19, with performances featuring more than 500 participants, mutton bustin’ and barrel racing contests running through June 22. A midway, concession and beer garden add to the fun. For tickets or more information, call 505-988-1234 or visit To purchase tickets online, go to

The Bradbury Science Museum in Los Alamos — established by LANL in 1954 to preserve the history of the World War II Manhattan Project and the lab’s research projects — is helping to celebrate Los Alamos National Laboratory’s 70th anniversary with a special exhibit opening in late July. The exhibit will focus on the lab’s present and future, based on the ground-breaking research and accomplishments of the past seven decades. The museum is also premiering cell phone audio tours that will offer visitors special insights into that work as told by the lab researchers who made it happen. The museum itself celebrates 20 years in its current location, a striking structure at 1350 Central Ave. in Los Alamos. For more information, visit or call 505-667-4444. The museum is also hosting a 70th Anniversary Public Lecture Series. All lectures start at 5:30 p.m. June 12 “Early Histories of Los Alamos and Arzamas-16,” Professor Istvan Hargittai, of the Budapest University of Science and Technology, will compare the early histories of Los Alamos and its Soviet counterpart, Arzamas-16. July 10 “Truman’s Decision to Drop the Bombs,” Professor Noel Pugach, The University of New Mexico, will discuss President Harry Truman’s decision to use the atomic bombs. August 14 “Captain William S. ‘Deak’ Parsons,” LANL historian emeritus Roger Meade will lecture on one of the laboratory’s two wartime associate directors and the weaponeer — the person who loaded the powder charge — of the atomic bomb dropped on Hiroshima from the B-29 bomber nicknamed the Enola Gay. September 11 “Nuclear Weapons Testing During the Cold War,” Byron L. Ristvet, Ph.D., Defense Threat Reduction Agency, will discuss LANL’s role in the Cold War nuclear weapons testing program. October 9 “LANL’s 50 Years in Space,” a celebration of LANL’s 50 years of contributing to the U.S. space program. Speakers include laboratory fellow and astrophysicist Ed Fenimore and Roger Wiens, a planetary scientist at the lab and principal investigator of the team that created the ChemCam, an instrument on the Mars rover that uses laser beams to determine the composition of that planet’s rocks. For more information about activities marking the 70th anniversary of Los Alamos National Laboratories, log onto

— Arin McKenna Photos from the top: Chuck West, Luis Sánchez saturno, Courtesy


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27th Annual

Contemporary Hispanic Market July 27th & 28th 2013

Saturday 8 to 5, Sunday 9 to 5 Lincoln Ave., Santa Fe NM

(Next to Historical Santa Fe Plaza)

Preview Show Friday, July 26th 5:30 - 8PM at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center 201 W. Marcy St., Santa Fe

Ruben Jimenez-Acuna

Jerry Duran

Amadeus Leitner

Armando Adrian-Lopez

Sandra Duran-Wilson

Miller Lopez

Delores M. Aragon

Debora Duran-Geiger

Dottie Lopez

Jerome Armijo/jJude Tercero

Pamela Enriquez-Courts

Johnny Lorenzo

Patrick & LuAnn Baca

Eloise Marie Estrada

Phillip J. Lovato

Guilloume Perez-Zapata

David Santiago

Patricia Baca

Anthony Fernandez

Jake Lovato

Conseulo E. Pineda-Hancock

Raymond Sedillo

Catherine Baca

Michelle D. Ferran

Steve Malavolta

Robb Rael

Leonard Segura

Marlene J. Bachicha-Roberts

Carolyn Flores

Diane Martinez

Eduardo Reyes

Rebecca Shinas-Rehberg

Josephine S. Brionez de Flores

Melicio Fresquez

Carlo Martinez

Steve Reyes

Michelle Tapia

Dona Calles

Leroy Fresquez Jr.

Marion Martinez

Edwin Rivera

Jacob Tarazon-Matteson

Gilbert Candelaria

Carolee J. Friday

Adrian S. Martinez

Eric Rivera

Vicente A. Telles

Sharon & Adam Candelerio

Billy Gallegos

Eric Martinez

Manuel Rivera

Angelo Torres

“St. Cecilia” by Enrique Cowds

Bernadette & Oscar Caraveo

Joseph I Galvan

Marty Martinez-Lorenzana

Anita Rodriguez

Albert MB Trujillo

Eduardo Chacon

Omar Ganzo

Darlene Olivia McElroy

Ron S. Rodriguez

David Trujillo

Joseph Mark Chavez

Jerome Garcia

Clarence Medina

Dina Romero

John Trujillo

Peggy Chavez

Keith J. Garcia

Ron Meir

Gilberto Romero

Don Unser

Claudia Chavez

Edward Gonzales

Josephine I Mohr

Robert Romero

Andy Valdez

Gabriel Cisneros

Martin Gonzales

Debra Montoya


JoJo Valdez

Cynthia Cook

Matthew Gonzales

Joey Montoya

Julian H. Romero

Mike Vargas

Joseph Cordova

William Gonzales

Mark Nunez west

Ralph Roybal

Mario Vargas

H Cordova

Richard F. Guzman

Gilberto Olivas

James Roybal

David Vega-Chavez

Charles Cortez

Leah Henriquez-Ready

Gene Ortega

Charles M. Salazar

Tomas Vigil

Robert Crespin

Eloy Hernandez

Judy L. Ortiz

Jason Salazar

Cipriano Vigil

Victoria de Almeida

Bien Irrizarry

Martin M. Palacios

Roberto D. Salazar

Kevin Vigil

John D. de Jesus

Mark Jimenez


Ana Maria Samaniego

Ramona Vigil-Eastwood

Catalina Delgado-Trunk

Billy Kavanaugh

Amado Pena

Raymond Sandoval

For information call Matthew E. Gonzales, 505-920-8615 • All events are free to the public Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


and all that

. . . z z a j Terence Blanchard

Chick Corea

‘The hills are alive …’

The 8th annual New Mexico Jazz Festival opens July 12 and runs through July 27, with renowned artists appearing in venues in both Albuquerque and Santa Fe. In Santa Fe on July 21, Grammy-winning jazz bassist Stanley Clarke brings his band — and its funky electric fusion — to the Lensic Performing Arts Center, 211 W. San Francisco St. Best known for his work with Chick Corea, Clarke’s 40-year career has explored the full spectrum of music, from classical to film scores, rhythm & blues to pop and funk. Trumpeter Terence Blanchard appears at the Lensic on July 26, with his quintet and special guest guitaristvocalist Lionel Loueke. Known for his work in the hard bop tradition, five-time Grammy Award winner Blanchard has more recently been working in an African-fusion style. Loueke combines harmonic complexity, soaring melody and West African folk forms to create a sound all his own. Pianist, NEA National Endowment for the Arts Jazz Master and nine-time Grammy award winner Eddie Palmieri and his Latin jazz band close the festival with a July 27 performance at the Lensic. Called “the most consistently innovative artist in Afro-Cuban music in the United States for the past 30 years,” Palmieri fuses the rhythm of Puerto Rico with the melody and complexity of his jazz influences, including Thelonious Monk and NEA Jazz Masters Herbie Hancock and McCoy Tyner. For tickets to the three Lensic performances, call 505-988-7050 or log onto For more information about Jazz Festival events in Albuquerque, visit

Stanley Clarke


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The sound of music echoes through the mountain towns of Angel Fire, Taos, Raton and Las Vegas when Music from Angel Fire — Northern New Mexico’s premier chamber music festival — celebrates its 30th season with 15 touring concerts between August 16 and September 1. In addition to the usual baroque to contemporary classical repertoire presented by emerging and world-class artists, this special anniversary year includes National Endowment for the Arts Jazz Master and 18-time Grammy winner Chick Corea as the festival’s 2013 composer in residence. The world premiere of a new work by the keyboard virtuoso is part of the scheduled programming. Among the other artists and ensembles included in this year’s lineup are violinist Ida Kavafian (the festival’s artistic director); AnneMarie McDermott, piano; Peter Wiley, cello; clarinetist Richard Stoltzman; flautist Tara Helen O’Connor; mezzo soprano Susanne Mentzer; the Harlem Quartet; and the Imani Winds quintet. For more information about the performers and repertoire, visit To order tickets, which go on sale on June 1, call 575-377-3233 or 888-377-3300.


T I C K E T S S TA RT AT $ 3 2 !

Arrive early with a tailgate supper to enjoy the sunset and mountain views. 505-986-5900 •







World Premiere





Theodore Morrison




Ask our partners about a special offer for Opera guests.



Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico




This Summer at the Santa Fe Chamber Music Festival July 14 - August 19, 2013

40 EXCEPTIONAL CONCERTS 150 Washington Ave. • Santa Fe • 505.983.9103

From beloved favorites, to hidden gems and new discoveries, every concert offers a special musical experience to savor, performed by world renowned chamber music stars!

Save the Date

Join us for another unforgettable season.



Join Honorary Chair

call toll free 888.221.9836 or 505.982.1890

The Lit


For a Big C




MINI-FESTIvAL: years of Wonder Masterpieces by Mozart and schumann. the santa Fe Desert chorale singing gesualdo. a musical experience of a lifetime in just one week. Monday, August 12 • Wednesday, August 14 Thursday, August 15 • Monday, August 19

Kate Snow of NBC News at




The LITTLE Gala For a BIG Cause Benefiting Big Brothers Big Sisters of Northern New Mexico

Date: October 5, 2013 tIME: 6:00 P.M. Place: Hilton Santa Fe Golf Resort & Spa at Buffalo Thunder

Culinary Coordinator, Chef Charles Dale of Bouche Bistro 2013 Featured Artist, Estella Loretto To participate as a chef, donate an auction item, be a committee volunteer or to purchase tickets, email Gala Chair Carrie OliverBertram at or contact Ron Ruybal, Event Coordinator, at 505.983.8360,

Marc Neikrug, artistic Director

Intimate. Compelling. Unforgettable.


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Savor the flavor of the New World From 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. June 2, Delicious New Mexico joins with New World Cuisine — an exhibit highlighting the history of chocolate, mate and related kitchen items and decorative tableware at the Museum of International Folk Art — to celebrate the traditions and flavors that make Northern New Mexico’s cuisine special. New World Cuisine tells the story of one of the earliest food-based cultural fusions to take place in the Americas. Delicious New Mexico is a contemporary organization of New Mexico-owned food businesses that source as locally as possible. It’s a natural pairing. In the mixing bowl: locally owned businesses offering food for sampling and for sale; a cookbook fair with authors reading about their favorite foods; baking demonstrations in the outdoor horno (beehive) oven; and an explanation of local cooking techniques by the Santa Fe Culinary Academy. Admission to the Sunday event at the museum is free for New Mexico residents, children 16 and younger, and members of the Museum of New Mexico Foundation. A special tasting of locally brewed beers, New Mexican and South American wines, and foods prepared by the Museum Hill Café, costs $20 and is available under the café’s portal from 1 to 4 p.m. For more information, call 505-476-1200.

Down-tempo dining Slow Food was founded in Italy in 1989 “to counter the rise of fast food and fast life, the disappearance of local food traditions and people’s dwindling interest in the food they eat, where it comes from, how it tastes and how our food choices affect the rest of the world.” Slow Food Santa Fe — a member chapter of Slow Food USA and Slow Food International — offers a running program of events about food, culture and society with a connection to Northern New Mexico culinary and agricultural traditions. The 2013 spring/summer schedule of events includes a multicourse dinner and sherry tasting hosted by James Campbell Caruso, chef/owner of La Boca and Taberna; a Deborah Madison-led “Shop, Cook, Eat: Introduction to Vegetable Literacy” class in conjunction with the publication of her new book, Vegetable Literacy; a breakfast workshop focusing on coffee roasting, quick breads and freezer jam; a tour of a Santa Fe distillery; and an al fresco harvest dinner at a Northern New Mexico farm. SFSF also hosts “Dinner and a Book,” generally on the third Monday of every month. Participants read a preselected food-related book and bring a potluck dish to share. A list of talking points prepared by a Slow Food board member kicks off the discussion. Interested in participating in a Slow Food Santa Fe program? Sign up for the mailing list by emailing with “Please add me to your mailing list” in the message line. The newsletter will keep you up to date on events and other opportunities. You can also access the event schedule, as it comes available, by visiting the organization’s Facebook page at Slow Food Santa Fe. If you are not connected to the Internet, call 505474-3896. You need not be a member of Slow Food USA to participate in Slow Food Santa Fe programs. —Ellen Lampert, Slow Food Santa Fe

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico



Two good, gory reads for those rare rainy days

By Pat West-Barker

The King’s Lizard: A Tale of Murder and Deception in Old Santa Fe

When The Devil Doesn’t Show

The year was 1782 and what we now know as New Mexico was still a Spanish colony, closed to all traders, goods and settlers but those sent by King Carlos III’s viceroy, headquartered in Mexico. In that time, Santa Fe, capital of the province, was a “dusty scattering of adobe buildings … [a] shabby little town” populated by “odd, stubborn people struggling for life on the furthest edge of the known world.” Pamela Christie’s carefully researched novel takes place after the Pueblo Revolt of 1680 and the reconquest of Nuevo México by the Spanish and before Mexican Independence and American possession of the territory in 1848 forever altered the composition of the population. While all the characters in the book — except Juan Batista de Anza, the governor of the time — are fictitious, Christie’s depictions of the dangers of daily life in the impoverished and isolated territory are not. The slave trade, while officially forbidden by the crown, is rampant, with the Spanish, Apaches, Comanches and Utes capturing and selling one another’s people. If that’s not enough, someone is killing soldiers headquartered at the mud building grandly known as the Palace of Governors, capturing wagon trains loaded with goods and supplies coming up the Camino Real, killing settlers in outlying villages and kidnapping and wounding members of a prominent Santa Fe family. Governor Anza’s attempt to forge a much-needed union with the Comanches is at risk — as is the very survival of the colony itself. Mysterious friars, gold coins, warring Native tribes, slave traders, soldiers, settlers, the madam of a house of ill repute, a prosperous mayor and his handsome son, the pleasures and pains of daily life on the frontier, and a blended family of both pure Spanish and mixed blood figure prominently in this story of death and deception. Readers may be able to figure out who the bad guys are about half-way through the book, but solving the crime is only one of the pleasures of reading this tale. And we are willing to bet that the force at the very bottom of it all, revealed in the last chapters, will be a surprise to all but the most knowledgeable of the region’s early history.

Fast forward to 2012 and Santa Fe is now a historically and architecturally significant town, ranked No. 1 in 2011 for a cultural getaway by Travel & Leisure magazine. Hispanics — both descendants of those early colonists and more recent arrivals — Anglos and Native Americans now mingle in the City Different, joined by platoons of tourists and a goodly portion of wealthy part-time residents. Santa Fe may be more elegant now, but it’s still dusty and still dangerous — at least in Christine Barber’s new mystery novel, the third to feature the crime-solving team of newspaper reporter and emergency medical technician Lucy Newroe and Gil Montoya, Santa Fe police detective and direct descendent of the city’s early settlers. Barber, whose first novel, The Replacement Child, won the Tony Hillerman Prize and was designated a New York Times Notable Crime Novel, is known for her ability to capture the physical landscape, history, and psychology of Santa Fe’s multicultural residents. In her latest work, she also ups the body count, killing off six people — some rather gruesomely — between Dec. 20 and 25. Home invasions, murder, mutilations and fires — one particularly vivid passage follows our heroine as she crawls through a house fire in search of survivors — slowly unravel who done it — and why — as the city celebrates the Christmas holiday in its unique way. As always in Barber’s novels, family relationships play a strong role in the crimes at hand, this time complicated by the arcane operations and culture at Los Alamos National Laboratory, Santa Fe’s infamous nuclear neighbor. Her fans may find this Barber’s most tightly written mystery yet. Readers new to her work may be inspired to check out the two novels that came before.

Pamela Christie Lone Butte Press, 2010

Christine Barber Minotaur Books, 2013

Both mystery novels are available locally at Collected Works Bookstore (202 Galisteo St.; 505-988-4226) and Garcia Street Books (376 Garcia St.; 505-986-0151), as well as online.

Excerpt from: When The Devil Doesn’t Show The devil was wearing a black cowboy hat with red plastic horns when he came out onto the balcony. The crowd started booing, and he waited for a moment for the noise to stop before yelling at them in Spanish to be quiet. … The devil yelled at them louder, telling the crowd the inn was closed. The people, with a few last hisses and growls, moved en masse to the next balcony, a half block away. They followed behind strumming guitar players and a choir singing in Spanish, all led by a couple dressed as Mary and Joseph. … The crowd stopped in front of a trading post on the southwest side of the plaza, where another devil, this one in a red cape and mask, came out onto the balcony above. The booing got louder, but this devil hissed back and stomped his feet at the crowd. The icicles hanging under the balcony shook but didn’t break. The devils were playing the conscience of the innkeepers who’d denied lodging to Mary and Joseph on Christmas Eve. They were the villains of Las Posadas, which had been brought over to New Mexico by the conquistadors in the sixteenth century and reenacted every year since. … There had been no murders in Santa Fe since the beginning of November. … In that time, [Gil Montoya] had become less of a detective and more of an administrative assistant, clearing out paperwork and helping with reports. He was surprised how much he liked the normalcy of it. But he knew it wouldn’t last. Santa Fe averaged eight homicides annually. This year there had been only three, but there were still eleven days to go before New Year’s Day.


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Railyard The

Railyard Plaza

Railyard Park

1. Plaza 2. Loretto Chapel 3. San Miguel Chapel 4. Cathedral Basilica 5. Manhattan Project Office 6. Sena Plaza 7. Cross of the Martyrs 8. The Santa Fe New Mexican 9. Padre Gallegos House 10. U.S. Courthouse 11. Palace of the Governors 12. New Mexico History Museum 13. New Mexico Museum of Art 14. Lensic Performing Arts Center 15. Georgia O’Keeffe Museum 16. Santa Fe Community Convention Center 17. Post Office

18. Museum of Contemporary Native Arts 19. State Capitol 20. Bataan Memorial Museum 21. Santa Fe Children’s Museum 22. Center for Contemporary Arts 23. Museum of Spanish Colonial Art 24. Museum of Indian Arts and Culture 25. Milner Plaza 26. Museum of International Folk Art 27. Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian 28. El Museo Cultural de Santa Fe 29. Site Santa Fe 30. Santa Fe Farmers Market 31. Santa Fe Depot/Vistor Center 32.Warehouse 21 33. Canyon Road Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


What’s cooking in Santa Fe this summer Santa Fe Culinary Academy opens The newest entry in Santa Fe’s cooking school scene, the Santa Fe Culinary Academy, is a joint effort of longtime local chef Rocky Durham, who cut his culinary teeth in Europe before returning home to the City Different, and pastry chef Tanya Story, a San Francisco Bay Area native specializing in global fusion, who moved to Santa Fe to help renovate the culinary arts kitchens at Santa Fe Community College. And kitchens are one of the things that stand out at the academy, located at 112 W. San Francisco St., Suite 300 (on the third floor of the Plaza Mercado). Most classes take place in a large, professional kitchen outfitted with the latest equipment — a necessity for the professional culinary classes that start enrolling on September 23, and a bonus for enthusiastic home cooks who want to know what it’s like to work in a real restaurant setting. Hands-on classes at the culinary academy include intensives — programs such as artisan bread baking or butchering and charcuterie that meet for six hours a day, four days in a row — “a lot of work, a lot of information, a real cooking education and the opportunity to mingle with professional chefs,” Durham said. Other classes may meet once or be part of a series focusing on such topics as cooking fundamentals or Asian cuisine. Series classes usually meet once a week for four weeks, and students can sign up for one or more of the offerings. Pop-up dinners are also on the academy’s

agenda. Held in the facility’s restaurant, dinners will feature both staff and popular local chefs like James Caruso Campbell, chef/owner of the highly praised La Boca and Taberna. While he is best known for his Spanish small plate cuisine, for one night only Caruso will cook the Italian food of his childhood. A night of Indian street food (followed by a Bollywood dance class), Northern New Mexico specialties, a vegetarian taco night and raw Latino cuisine with a Yucatán accent are also on this summer’s pop-up menu. For more information about classes at the Santa Fe Culinary Academy, call 505-983-7445 or visit Sign up for the academy’s newsletter while you are online, and a notice of scheduled and special offerings will be delivered to your in-box.

Santa Fe School of Cooking holds ‘boot camp’ in new quarters Opened by Susan Curtis in 1989 to showcase New Mexican foods and agriculture, the Santa Fe School of Cooking — now managed by Curtis’ daughter Nicole Ammerman — has been offering hands-on and demonstration cooking classes for more than two decades. Now located in beautiful new quarters at 125 N. Guadalupe St., the school’s more recent additions to its curriculum include a Southwest Culinary Boot Camp — an intensive three-day program that includes dinner every evening and a final exam that involves designing and preparing

a meal — and classes held at the Estrella del Norte vineyard in nearby Nambé. Three different restaurant walks offer a guided tour of four wellknown Santa Fe eateries (for a total of 12 dining destinations), with private tastings and the opportunity to interact with the chefs. The next Boot Camp will be August 26-28. To sign up for vineyard dinners, restaurant walks or ongoing cooking classes, call 505-983-4511 or visit

Cooking School at Las Cosas Kitchen Shoppe entertains John Vollertsen, director of the Cooking School at Las Cosas Kitchen Shoppe, had his heart set on an acting career before he earned his culinary degree and took to the stages of some classic New York City restaurants, which may explain why his classes are as entertaining as they are educational. Small, hands-on classes scheduled for this summer include New Mexico favorites and the Spanish influence on norteño cookery, a coffee lovers’ seminar with expert Paul Kalenian, cooking from the Harvey House, grilling everything from fish to meats to salsas, and a high-altitude baking workshop. Las Cosas Kitchen Shoppe is at 181 Paseo de Peralta (inside the DeVargas Center). For more information about class schedules, call 505-988-3394 or log onto cookingclasses.aspx.

Left, John Vollertsen of the Cooking School at Las Cosas Kitchen Shoppe Center, Santa Fe Culinary Academy Right, Santa Fe School of Cooking Restaurant Walk


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By Pat West-Barker

The Durango Collection: Native American Weaving in the Southwest, 1860–1880 May 12, 2013– April 13, 2014 Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian In partnership with the Center of Southwest Studies, Fort Lewis College, Durango, CO

Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian 704 Camino Lejo, Museum Hill Santa Fe, NM 87505 Made possible in part by the City of Santa Fe Arts Commission and the 1% Lodgers’ Tax; New Mexico Arts, a division of the Department of Cultural Affairs and the National Endowment for the Arts; and several private donors. Photo by Addison Doty

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


Case Trading Post Museum Shop Offering the Unique in Traditional and Contemporary Native American Art

Photo by Addison Doty

Visit us today or shop online at

Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian 704 Camino Lejo . Museum Hill. Santa Fe, NM 87505 505.982.4636, ext. 110. Monday-Saturday 10-5 Sunday 1-5 28

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Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico



March June

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Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


Buying Gold & Silver for 30 Years

Discover New Mexico’s Arts Trails

Natural Color Diamonds

Where all Roads Lead to Art

Phho: Jane Freese

reativity flourishes on the back roads of New Mexico, with art and artists as extraordinary as the unforgettable landscape. From farm to trading post, rural art center and studio to gallery, the NEW MEXICO Arts TRAILS takes you on a journey of place, tradition and culture. Explore NEW MEXICO Arts TRAILS to map your journey!

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The Work of Art

celebrating ten years of bringing the world together

International Folk Art Market Santa Fe

July 12, 13 & 14, 2013 | MuSEuM HIll In Santa fE

tICKEtS On SalE nOW: 505.886.1251 Museum of new Mexico shops and los alamos national banks Carlos Alberto Cáceres Valladares | Cuba

In partnership with the New Mexico Department of Cultural Affairs, Museum of International Folk Art, Museum of New Mexico Foundation, and City of Santa Fe. Partially funded by the City of Santa Fe Arts Commission and the 1% Lodgers’Tax and the Santa Fe County Lodgers’Tax.

© John Bigelow Taylor

Santa Fe Trails

You turn to us.


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living la vida local

Farmers Market firmly rooted in Railyard Story by Kristen Davenport Photo by Gene Peach

Details Santa Fe Farmers Market

7 a.m. to 1 p.m. Tuesdays and Saturdays 1607 Paseo de Peralta, Suite A, Santa Fe 505-983-4098

Artisans Market

10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sundays

The Santa Fe Farmers Market Institute is the nonprofit that owns the market pavilion building and supports the farmers market.

For more than 40 years, farmers have been coming to Santa Fe early on Saturday morning to sell their goods. For decades, they set up in parking lots to sell green chile in summer and red ristras in the fall, apples and blue corn atole and chicos made from sweet yellow corn. Over the years, the market moved many times — from the parking lot at St. Catherine Indian School, to Alto Street, to empty gravel lots near the train station, to the parking lots outside government buildings. The Santa Fe Farmers Market now has a permanent home in the developed Railyard, where local agriculture flourishes. The market features 150 vendors — small orchards selling fruit, people who spin beautiful hand-dyed wool from their own flocks of sheep, artisan goat cheeses, local honeys, grass-fed meat and more. Last year, the market also opened new shops at the farmers market building, which houses permanent homes for local wineries, chocolate makers, a garden shop and the new Café Fresh, run by the market. Café Fresh features breakfast and lunch items made with ingredients sourced from the market vendors, along with locally-roasted coffees, an espresso bar, Taos Cow ice cream and smoothies made from local fruits and veggies. It also serves atole, a traditional New Mexican drink made from blue corn and honey. The shops are open each day the market is open — Tuesday and Saturday — as well as during the Sunday artisans market, which features the work of craftspeople from across Northern New Mexico. Each year in late July or early August, the market also sponsors a farm tour, during which a dozen vendors from the market open their farms to visitors. Information will be available by early July on the market’s web page, including maps and information about the individual farms on this year’s tour.

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


Chasing green grass


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Story by Kristen Davenport • Photos by Gene Peach

living la vida local

Shepherd’s Lamb keeps ‘organic’ herd on the move

When the wee lambs are still wobbly on their legs, it is time for Antonio and Molly Manzanares of Shepherd’s Lamb — New Mexico’s only certified organic lamb producer — to take their flock of 900 ewes into the lush, grassy mountains of Northern New Mexico. On the couple’s sheep ranch near Tierra Amarilla, New Mexico, Antonio and Molly breed the ewes in the middle of winter so the lambs are born when the grass is getting rich and the ewe milk is sweet. “We take them out by June; all that green grass helps the moms make milk, so it helps the babies grow,” said Antonio. In the high country near Canjilon in the Carson National Forest, the Manzanares family and their lone shepherd, Hector Cataño, spend the summer moving their flock from pasture to pasture, climbing in altitude as the season runs on. Using only horses, they move the sheep camp once a week, Antonio said, chasing the green grass, in consultation with the Forest Service and their shepherd. “I go out every few days to check on our shepherd,” he said. “They all stay out in the forest until the end of September.” It sure makes for some good meat. But it is long, hard work for the couple, who started their business shortly after they were married 30 years ago. And it’s lonely work for their shepherd. “It’s a solitary life,” said Molly. In fact, Shepherd’s Lamb is Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


looking for a new shepherd willing to spend months in the wilderness “with not much company other than the dogs, the horses and the sheep.” “I volunteered many times but they won’t let me go,” Molly laughed. “Antonio is made more for people. He likes the people part more. I’m made for the animals. … That’s how I was raised; I grew up outside with the horses.” It was Molly’s love for animals that got the couple started in sheep ranching. “When we got married, I already had a small flock of sheep — 14 or something — and when we got married we started increasing it,” Antonio said. Four (human) kids later, they are still at it — traveling each Saturday to the Santa Fe Farmers Market, where they sell lamb meat, whole sheep pelts and skeins of wool that Molly makes from their sheep’s fleece. Shepherd’s Lamb became certified organic in 1998, Molly said, and has been selling at the market in Santa Fe since then. “I still enjoy it,” Antonio said. “But for Molly, I think she enjoys the ranch work a lot more than I do. She’s just built that way — she’s more of a horsewoman. She has a way with animals. I think most women do; women are better with sheep than men are.” Molly also runs the wool side of the business, spending many days at the Tierra Wools store and giving tours. Tierra Wools, a project of Ganados del Valle, is a wool and handweaving shop near Tierra Amarilla that’s open most days 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Neither of their families were sheep ranchers before she and Antonio took it up, Molly said. Until the past 50 years, however, New Mexico was the top sheeps’ wool and meat producer in the nation. According to some historians, the railroads came to New Mexico at least in part due to the millions of sheep here that were producing wool and meat for the nation. Don Juan de Oñate is said to have brought the first sheep to what is now New Mexico in 1598 — 5,400 head of animals called “churro” sheep, which translates roughly as “common” sheep. Apparently, the Merinos with their fine wool were too fancy for the wild frontiers of a rough new world. “This is just hearsay, but I remember a man telling me that [at one time] more lambs shipped out of Chama than any place in the world,” Antonio said. Although many ranches still raise a few sheep, especially in the fertile, green

area around Chama, only a handful of people are selling lamb meat. The only other lamb-only operation in Northern New Mexico, led by Arturo Valdez, went out of business several years ago. “We got his dogs, but I don’t know where his sheep went,” Molly said. Today, Antonio said, Shepherd’s Lamb raises some Navajo churros, as well as what he calls “the poquitero” sheep — a Northern New Mexico mutt. “That’s our name for it — that we came up with a long time ago,” he said. “It translates to ‘small guy.’ It’s the same sheep we’ve always had, a white-faced sheep.” Shepherd’s Lamb sells specific cuts at the Santa Fe Farmers Market each Saturday — chops, roasts, ground lamb; the churro, which Antonio called a “specialty” item, is priced a little higher than the poquitero. The Manzanares also sell whole or half carcasses, both at market and over the Internet. Antonio said the time to order whole and half lambs is September through February, when the family is taking the sheep to an organic-approved, U.S. Department of Agriculture butchering facility outside of Durango, Colorado. From March through August, the ranch sells only frozen prepackaged lamb at the farmers market. The Manzanares ranch also sells to a few grocery stores — La Montañita Co-op, for one — and to a few restaurants, including The Love Apple in Taos and Atrisco Café & Bar in Santa Fe. And, soon, the company will be selling lamb at The Real Butcher Shop, opening in the Solano Shopping Center in Santa Fe. But still, making a living off sheep is not easy. So far, none of the couple’s four children have shown interest in taking on the family herd of 900 ewes, who produce about 1,100 lambs each year. All four children were raised on the ranch, and all four were “incredibly helpful” through middle school and high school, Molly said. But none seems inclined to come back: One is in the military, another finishes New York University law school this spring, one finishes veterinary school this year and another works in design in San Francisco. A couple of nephews have taken an interest in the sheep ranch, Antonio said, but it’s not clear anyone is going to step up to take over the family business. “You talk about retirement, well, we’re not going to be able to retire,” Antonio said. “You don’t retire from this. I have no idea how we’d do it. I guess we’ll just keep doing this until we die.”

The Manzanares ranch also sells to a few grocery stores — La Montañita Co-op, for one — and to a few restaurants, including The Love Apple in Taos and Atrisco Café & Bar in Santa Fe. And, soon, the company will be selling lamb at The Real Butcher Shop, opening in the Solano Shopping Center in Santa Fe.


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Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


Details Shepherd’s Lamb For more information visit or call 575-588-7792.

Talus Wind Ranch

Shepherd’s wools

Another model for raising meat locally, responsibly

Tierra Wools/Los Ojos Handweavers 91 Main St. Los Ojos, New Mexico. Open daily; see website for hours. Visit or call 575-588-7231.

By Kristen Davenport

Real Butcher sources locally By Kristen Davenport

For Tom Delehanty, it’s obvious: If you’re going to sacrifice the life of an animal, you need to use the whole animal. Every last bite. And make stock out of what’s left. Delehanty seems comfortable on the cutting edge: He said that in 1996, his farm Pollo Real was the first certified organic poultry farm in the country. And, his butcher shop will be the first Old World-style butcher shop to open in Santa Fe in many long years. The Real Butcher Shop, in the Solano Shopping Center on West Alameda Street in Santa Fe, is scheduled to open this summer after years of planning. It will feature almost exclusively local, grass-fed and grass-finished and organic meats. And it will be a retail outlet for Pollo Real, Delehanty’s farm near Socorro that raises two varieties of meat chickens — a French Label Rouge and an American Cornish Cross — along with heritage turkeys, guinea hens and ducks. The farm also sells pastured eggs. “The idea is to create a totally transparent butcher shop, unlike any other in the country,” Delehanty said. “We’re putting the people together with the food. We’re going to honor the farmers and their practices, but we’re also going to honor the animals themselves.”

Every bit of the beast The Real Butcher Shop will also be a deli and charcuterie, making its own sausage and ham and bacon, as well as a small café where Tom and Tracey Delehanty can sell sandwiches and soups made with the meats featured in their butcher shop and deli. The butcher shop features only meats that have met Delehanty’s approval, and all parts of the animals will be used; the café might feature tongue, for instance, and organ meats. If the butcher shop buys a whole carcass, the knuckles — filled with gelatin — will be used to make soup stock, also for sale at the shop. “I hope this will be a great place to educate people about their meat,” he said. But don’t expect it to be cheap. “If I get a whole cow, I’ve only got two tenderloins,” Delehanty said. “So if you want it, you’d better get it. And that may not be inexpensive.” Nonetheless, Delehanty said, the butcher shop will be competitively priced with the organic meat stores around town because it is financed entirely by contributions from his customers at the farmers market and elsewhere. “That’s the real unbelievable story,” Delehanty said. “This is entirely money from our CSA [Community Supported Agriculture] customers. We don’t have fat cats sitting in a bank somewhere, paid to do nothing, who are taking their share off the top. This is a family business. We don’t have to have a 100 percent markup on everything. “This is real health food for the people.” For more information, visit 40

Out on the dusty plains near Galisteo, south of Santa Fe, Timothy Willms is living a new kind of life. After a youth spent in the art world and at East Coast universities, Willms, now 50, came to New Mexico in 1998 with the intent to “reconnect with something more tangible.” So he bought a 460-acre ranch and began raising meat. Cows. Sheep. Turkeys. Chickens. Willms was a fine art dealer for Sotheby’s first and a sheep farmer second, but he said his whole operation — Talus Wind Heritage Meats — is built around trying to help the small ranchers and rural folk across New Mexico who have been in the animal business for generations. For instance, he said, “I saw when I came here that there was a real dearth of USDA processing facilities [slaughterhouses]. There used to be over 600 nationwide in the 1970s and early 80s, and there were only 250 when I started doing this.” So he opened Mountainair Heritage Meat Processing, which processes his own animals for sale at Whole Foods groceries and restaurants across Northern New Mexico. But the facility also is open to ranchers across the state who want to be able to sell their meat with an official U.S. Department of Agriculture stamp of approval. “My goal was to help the small farmer who raises anywhere from 10 to 50 animals,” Willms said. In addition, Talus Wind buys lambs and cows from New Mexico ranchers, which he then feeds on pasture and grass. Most of his lambs come from the Roswell area. The ranch buys pigs from a hog farmer near Albuquerque. Willms also raises heritage turkeys — Standard Bronze, Rio Grande Wild and Narragansett — which Talus Wind Ranch sells mostly at Thanksgiving and Christmas, and operates a “meat club,” which allows customers to choose what type of meat they want each month. Talus Wind meats are on the menu at restaurants across Albuquerque and Santa Fe — including a fantastic lamb pot sticker at Mu Du Noodles — and at several grocery stores. The ranch is also involved with a project called “Mo Gro,” a mobile grocery store that goes through the pueblos, in conjunction with Johns Hopkins University, to combat diabetes and other health problems related to diet. Talus Wind sells 4-H lambs to local kids, as well, Willms said. “The going rate for 4-H lambs was $800,” he said. “That made it hard for a lot of kids to get involved in 4-H. We sell them for $80.” All Willms’ animals are “open paddock, well fed,” he said. “For me, for all the animals, what’s most important is they need to observe and have access to their natural behavior. That’s the most important thing to me.” In other words: green grass and fresh air. For more information about the meat club or buying from Talus Wind Ranch, go to or call 505-982-7782.

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Prescott sculPture

Prescott stuDIo, GAllerY & sculPture GArDeN 1127 siler Park lane santa Fe, NM 87507 505-424-8449 Hours: 9am - 4pm Monday - Friday saturday by appointment











Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico





a fin





Greens with envy

Story by Kristen Davenport • Photos by Gene Peach

All the other farmers at the Santa Fe Farmers Market know when Mr. G sells out of lettuce — because once Mr. G runs out, all the other vendors start to sell their greens. My husband, Avrum, and I run Boxcar Farm, and we’ve been trying to increase our lettuce sales. Our farm, at 8,100 feet in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, would seem the perfect place to grow lettuce: cool and wet. But we just don’t sell a lot of lettuce until Mr. G — on the far other end of the market — sells out. It’s just a fact of life. No one holds a grudge. We all know: Mr. G has really, really good greens. Customers go to him first.

But don’t tell that to Mr. G “Nawwww,” Gary Gunderson says sheepishly. He is sitting in his Jacona, New Mexico, house on a March morning, just days before his farm is set to hit the ground running for the season. “You have good greens, too,” he insists. Sure we do. But it’s not the same. People wait in line for greens from Mr. G’s Organic Produce. The lines can be 10 people deep. Once he runs out, customers head down the 42

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living la vida local

Mr. G credits climate, care for crop quality

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


row looking for another farmers market stand with lovely lettuce and spinach — some eventually reaching our Boxcar Farm stand on the opposite end of the market. Our lettuce is good, but it’s definitely safe to say that no one has quite the reputation (yet) that the Gundersons have created for themselves: lettuces and greens that are never bitter, never tough, always fluffy, always crunchy. Gary and Natasya Gunderson moved to Jacona — a little village near Pojoaque on the highway toward Los Alamos — in 2001. In the 10 years before that, the Gundersons ran a certified biodynamic and organic farm in Kauai, where they grew ginger and bananas, as well as other veggies, including lettuce. They arrived here a week before September 11, 2001, to discover that the valleys of Northern New Mexico are perfect for growing lettuce. “Here, unlike Hawaii, at least our nights cool down,” Gary says. “It’s called diurnal fluctuation. That means good lettuce.” Eighty percent of the nation’s lettuce supply, he points out, comes from areas near the coast of California where it’s foggy — meaning the air is cool and moist. Trying to reproduce that in


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the sunny Río Grande Valley isn’t easy. “We use microsprinklers, which helps the humidity.” Natasya chimes in with other reasons for their lovely lettuce: They only cut the lettuce once (after that, they till it under), they never cut lettuce in the heat of the afternoon and they put out transplants every week. “And Gary never lets anyone else cut the lettuce,” Natasya says. “And he tastes it all day long to make sure it’s good.”

Quality control The Santa Fe Farmers Market has consistently been rated one of the top markets in the country, because of its size and diversity of product and probably also because of the care the market management takes to make sure that all the produce and meat and even crafts are actually grown and produced in a 15-county area of Northern New Mexico. It is a market with integrity. The size and popularity of the market have definitely created what we might call a “celebrity farmer” phenomenon. Is there anyone left in Santa Fe, for example, who doesn’t know the boisterous and chile-happy Matt Romero? When I say “Gemini Farm,” most Santa Feans quickly picture

the tall, lanky, hippieish brothers who sell all the fantastic root vegetables. In my estimation, Mr. G is a celebrity farmer. Boxcar Farm? Not yet. We are much more famous for the way I write overly confessional articles than for my careful lettuce mix. But the cool thing about certain farmers, like Gary and Natasya Gunderson, is they aren’t greedy with their information. So if you want to call them up and go look over their lettuce operation for the purpose of a magazine article, they’re agreeable. They are happy to share the secrets to their success. They just want to make sure we point out they’ve got more than lettuce. On their 2 acres in Jacona, Gary says, they also grow tomatoes — the best Cherokee purple I ever ate came from the Gundersons — beets, radishes, green onions, peppers, eggplant, spinach, kale, chard. The key to their success, they say, is stringent quality control: They only bring really good stuff to market. So if the arugula is riddled with flea holes, it doesn’t matter if it still tastes good. It looks bad, so they don’t bring it. “It’s your reputation at stake,” Gary says. “I do think we have a reputation for high quality.” Last year, for instance, Mr. G’s Organic Produce suffered through three hailstorms that took out several weeks’ worth of lettuce. “We had many discussions about whether we

were going to take some things to market after that,” Natasya says. For the most part, they didn’t.

‘A good way to live’ Another thing we agree on, during our conversation, is the joy of raising kids on a market farm — kids who know where their food comes from. My kids love wandering out on warm summer days to pick peas and eat them straight off the vine. They are never put off by a little dirt on their carrots — “just wipe it on your pants and eat it,” my daughter tells her friends — and they complain about the “junk food” in their public school’s cafeteria. Likewise, the Gundersons’ daughter recently chose her college based on the food, because the cafeteria at Lawrence University in Wisconsin serves locally grown produce. “One of the things people always ask me is, ‘Can you make a living at this?’” Gary comments. “And as I was saying to a friend, I’ve been wanting a Ferrari for 10 years and I’ve given up on it. ... I’ve always wanted to tour Europe, and I think I have to settle for a trip to Taos this year. So can we make a living? It depends what kind of living you are talking about.” “This is what we do — we work for ourselves, we eat well, we’re not going to be on seven medications a day when we turn 60,” Gary says. “This is a good way to live.” Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


Goats and glory


Story by Megan Kamerick • Photos by Gene Peach

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Small-scale artisanal cheese makers stand apart from the herd We can thank the Spanish for introducing the first goats to New Mexico. Don Juan de Oñate, the first colonial governor, brought about 1,000 of them to San Gabriel, where the Río Chama joins the Río Grande, according to William Dunmire, author of New Mexico’s Livestock Heritage. Goat herding was common in medieval Spain, and colonists wanted them for milk. The animals adapted well to Northern New Mexico’s arid terrain. Goats also became a mainstay for the Navajo in the 1800s, according to Dunmire. And by the 1930s, goats outnumbered sheep in many Northern New Mexico Hispanic villages. Many New Mexican households traditionally made a queso blanco (a soft, unaged white cheese) from goat milk. You can still get that from today’s goat cheese dairies, but the selection has moved well beyond those bland beginnings. These local operations make up a fraction of the cheese market in the U.S., but they are part of a growing movement of artisanal cheese makers nationwide who tend to their product by touch, taste and smell rather than relying on computers to tell them when it’s time to package and ship. Entering a goat enclosure can be a little intimidating. Be prepared to be surrounded and have your clothes and any bags sniffed, nibbled on and tugged. Michael Lobaugh, co-owner of Old Windmill Dairy, said the goats’ personalities are closer to those of dogs. They bond with people and one another, even helping one another during birthing, checking on a doe in labor. “They are cute, they are inquisitive, they are playful. … They show unconditional love and never pass judgment,” Lobaugh said. They’re also easier on the land and tend to require less space than cows. Marge Petersen, co-owner of South Mountain Dairy, said her “girls” are sweet and loving. “We bottle-raise everybody, so as far as they’re concerned, milk comes from blue jeans,” she said. “And they work with you. They’re your partners.” Nancy Coonridge, owner of Coonridge Organic Goat Cheese Dairy, lives in a remote spot off the grid and her goats range freely, mostly eating wild vegetation. She has no interest in pasture animals like cows, preferring “outlaw country,” as she calls it. “We have to rely on each other just to live, and we have to take care of ourselves and take care of our animals,” she said. “So because we’re so far away, the goats living their natural life plug us right into the ground.”

Old Windmill Dairy “It’s a goat’s world. We just live here,” said Michael Lobaugh who owns Old Windmill Dairy with his partner, Ed. Don’t be surprised if the goats come galloping when you enter the paddock at the farm in Estancia. Like the owners of most small goat dairies, Ed and Michael bottle-feed all their charges, so the animals imprint on them. They get a little attached to the goats as well. “Losing a goat is like losing a family member,” Michael said. Ed’s grandparents had operated a goat milk dairy in California, and he began researching cheese making while working as a nurse, testing out samples on friends and

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


living la vida local

co-workers. They started operations officially in 2007 and now make on average 800 pounds a week of chevre (plain and also with numerous flavors ranging from wasabi and chipotle to seasonal flavors like pumpkin), as well as blues, feta and gouda. They also make cow’s milk cheeses, including cheese curds and a new line of bries, although their cows live on someone else’s farm nearby. Ed still works as a nurse, but Michael left his corporate job to work on the business full time. The two rely on feedback they get at farmers markets and food shows when developing new products. “We were making goat bries and blue cheeses, and people went nuts over them,” Ed said. So they decided to try a line of cow’s milk triple-cream bries with iconic New Mexico names, such as Valles Caldera (a goat and cow milk blend coated with vegetable ash), Wheeler Peak and Sangre de Cristo, which has chipotle. They imported a clear cellulose packaging product from France that allows the cheese to continue aging. A brochure with each cheese sold gives its history and describes that particular part of New Mexico. “People want to know who we are and the history of the cheese,” Michael said. That kind of information is key to branding for artisanal products, they add. Old Windmill has grown so rapidly that they have hired a full-time cheese maker so they can focus on sales and managing the farm.

South Mountain Dairy It’s all about the girls for Donna Lockridge and Marge Petersen. That would be the girl goats that provide the milk for their tasty chevre, feta and other cheeses. But they started with male goats to attack the weeds near their East Mountains home. Then Petersen had the idea of pack goats for hiking, but that meant raising them from kids and that required some goat moms. “Then all of a sudden we had all this milk,” Petersen said. Lockridge was an executive nurse at The University of New Mexico Health Science Center. Petersen was a project manager at Sandia National Laboratories. When they started the dairy seven years ago, they were still working full time, but both have since retired. South Mountain Dairy makes a plain chevre and a fresh salt-rubbed feta. The dairy also makes havarti and brie styles, several types of blue, ash mounds (which are dusted with vegetable ash that mellow the acidity) and Lizette’s Crottins (named for Lizette the goat) from whole goat milk and based on Crottin de Chavignol, which has been

produced since the 16th century in France. They also sell milk and yogurt. Many people who can’t tolerate cow’s milk find goat milk a good alternative, Petersen said. The pair turn their milk every day, which helps create a mild-tasting product. “I love my girls, but I don’t like goaty cheese,” Petersen said. And you need to remember to kiss the goats to get good milk, she said. “I had a goat who wouldn’t come into the milk room until you kissed her.”

Coonridge Organic Goat Cheese Dairy Nancy Coonridge’s farm is a little remote. “I’m only about 90 miles from Albuquerque, but you can’t go that way,” she said. It takes about one and a half hours just to reach pavement from her farm, located between Pie Town and Acoma Pueblo, but she wouldn’t have it any other way. “The point of coming here was to come to a place where the goats could free range and not bother anyone,” Coonridge said. “It’s a beautiful quality of life.” She runs the only goat cheese dairy in New Mexico that’s certified organic, and her goats are testaments to the creatures’ hardy natures. They mostly rely on wild food people can’t even digest, plus some alfalfa and hay in the winter. It gives the cheese a distinctive, seasonal flavor. Coonridge got her first goat when she was 19 and living in the San Francisco Bay Area. She recalls taking the city goat to the river and watching her splay her legs so she could drink from the water like a deer. Coonridge had an epiphany that she wanted a more natural lifestyle. Now she lives off the grid, relying on solar power and propane generators to pasteurize the milk. She tries to produce as much of her own food as possible. She is not opposed to making money but describes the dairy as a subsistence farm. “What else would I do if I didn’t do this?” she said. “I would have to go to town and get a job.” Coonridge makes raw goat milk feta and a soft spreading cheese with pasteurized goat milk, both preserved Mediterranean fashion, covered with sunflower seed oil and packed in jars with 15 different organic herbs and garlic blends. She also uses a vegetable rennet that is not genetically modified. “It gives it shelf life and intensifies the wonderful flavors,” she said. Touch and taste are what Coonridge uses to gauge the cheese’s progress. She loves the whole process, she said, but stays grounded in what brought her to this place. “Turning milk to cheese is alchemy, but the goats are the reason I do it.” 48

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Where to take classes, buy the cheese, visit the goats Old Windmill offers regular cheese-making classes for $48.50 that include cheese snacking, farm tours and feeding baby goats (during spring breeding season). Personalized or advanced cheese making classes are also available for $199. For more information, visit or call 505-384-0033. You can find Old Windmill Dairy goat cheeses at: Black Mesa Winery Tasting Room, Velarde Cid’s Food Market, Taos Eldorado Supermarket, Santa Fe La Montañita Co-op, Santa Fe Los Alamos Co-op Sprouts Farmers Market Whole Foods Market Santa Fe and Los Alamos farmers markets

South Mountain Dairy hosts seasonal tours for $5. For more information, visit or call 505-280-5210 or 505-379-9926. South Mountain Dairy cheeses are available at: La Montañita Co-op, Santa Fe Santa Fe Farmers Market

Coonridge Organic Goat Cheese Dairy is a four-hour drive from Albuquerque, best accessed by four-wheel drive or two-wheel drive if you have good ground clearance. Coonridge offers classes once a month and the opportunity to work in the dairy and stay onsite in several accommodations, including the converted school bus where Coonridge lived for the first seven years on the farm. For more information, contact Coonridge directly at organicgoat@gmail. com. Her website,, is currently being revamped. Coonridge Organic Goat Cheese is available at wine festivals and food shows around the Southwest and for sale at: Kaune’s Neighborhood Market, Santa Fe Eldorado Supermarket, Santa Fe La Montañita Co-op, Santa Fe Whole Foods Market

Jacqueline’s Place

Caffe Greco

open Daily 7:30aM – 8PM

P laza de S uenos y M ilagros Jewel Mark 505.820.6304 • Jacqueline’s Place 505.820.6542 caffe Greco 505.820.7996 once you have stepped into our world you won’t want to leave 233 canyon road • santa fe, new Mexico 87501 • Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


Family fruits

Story by Julie Ann Grimm • Photos by Gene Peach


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Apple orchards reflect generations of local settlement, migration

The lineage of apples in New Mexico doesn’t move in a straight line. But folklore, historic documents and new scientific research all corroborate the story. While apple trees from the East Coast of the United States were moving west with the help of Europeans, in the Southwest, they were moving north. Spanish immigrants, including priests and explorers, brought seedlings to Central and Northern New Mexico during the early 17th century. “Most people think that apples came in at Plymouth Rock or with the pilgrims and marched westward, and we now know that a completely unique heritage of apples came in through Mexico to the Southwest and there are some unique apples there,” said Gary Nabhan, an ethnobotonist and researcher at the University of Arizona, who compiled and edited Forgotten Fruits Manual & Manifesto — Apples, as part of the Renewing America’s Food Traditions (RAFT) Alliance’s 2010 “forgotten fruits” initiative. DNA microanalysis as part of the Southwest Regis-Tree project, he writes, identified dozens of apple varieties endemic to the Southwest. These trees are likely the “vegetative progeny” of trees that came with Hispanic Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


living la vida local

settlement of the region, then mixed with varieties that came later. “At least 40 percent of the apples in abandoned orchards aren’t available in the nurseries anymore,” Nabhan said. That’s why the “rescue” of apple varieties through taking cuttings of historic orchards in New Mexico is an important task to conserve both cultural and ecological heritage.

Visit an apple orchard Hours and availability change from season to season. Please call ahead of your visit to ensure the orchard will be open to visitors.

The Fruit Basket

N.M. 68, Suite 1413, Velarde Call 505-852-3210 for more information.

Romero’s Orchard

County Road 1105, Driveway 65, Embudo Call 505-579-4378 for more information.

Fred and Ruby Martinez Orchards

58 County Road 70, Dixon Call 505-579-4309 for more information.

Rancho Arco Iris

152 N.M. 580, Dixon (certified organic farm) Call 505-579-9141 for more information.

Family roots Like many families who proudly count back 15 generations in Northern New Mexico, a small number of fruit growers such as Eddie Velarde appreciate the same genealogy in their trees. The land he cultivates today along the banks of the Río Grande was claimed by the Spanish crown with a settlement that bears his family’s name. It’s part of the territory where, in 1630, the party of Don Juan de Oñate worked at finding a place that was high enough in elevation and close enough to water to allow a colony to endure. “I guess my ancestors figured that out when they came and said, ‘This is the mouth of the canyon. This is the valley. This is the best fruitgrowing area,’” he said. “They traveled a lot and they looked everywhere.”


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The next chapter of New Mexico’s apple history did come from the east. Anglo settlers — including Mormons — brought cuttings in the late 19th and early 20th century. And in the 1920s, the Stark Brothers came to the Española Valley. From oral history, Velarde learned that a salesman from the Missouri-based company rode the train to Santa Fe, then stayed with his family in Velarde about 100 years ago. That company, still operating today, helped fill agricultural tracts that had been appropriated by the U.S. government and returned to land grant heirs in 1908. Fruit production and farming remained popular in the valley for the next 30 years, but economic changes — including the opening of the nearby Los Alamos National Laboratories in the 1940s — began to erode local interest in orchards. Linda Velarde, Eddie’s sister and the orchard’s chief of marketing, said there’s been some resurgence of hobby scale orchards lately, but many seem gone forever. In today’s global marketplace, she said, the biggest challenge for small local orchards is competition with big corporate farms in Washington, California and South America. Local

Road trip offers rare varieties

school districts and state-run institutions also buy the lowest-cost fruit, even if the practice undercuts New Mexico producers who might be on the edge of extinction, she said. And just one difficult season can spell permanent disaster. One popular Northern New Mexico orchard that is unlikely to produce fruit this year, for example, is Dixon’s Apple Farm in Peña Blanca. The family who ran the orchard on state land for decades abandoned the effort last summer after fire, then flooding, put them in a precarious spot. Although Velarde and others have tried to coax the state into taking action, as of press time, no decision had been made about who would care for the trees. The trees missed critical spring watering and can’t recover between now and the fall, he said.

Fragile balance An even bigger hurdle is climate change. The way the orchards function today is different from when Velarde’s father, grandfather and great-great

In New Mexico, the freshest apples are available between August and October, and the easiest way to get them might be by visiting the Santa Fe Farmers Market in the Railyard on Saturday and Tuesday mornings to select apples carried by truck from the Española Valley. (The apples in most of the grocery stores in Santa Fe — or anywhere else in America — don’t come from New Mexico orchards at any time of year.) However, a drive north is the only guarantee of securing some of the more unusual varieties of apples, and shoppers can see picturesque rows of fruit trees that line the river valley as they climb north of Española next to the Río Grande. One destination is Eddie Velarde’s family orchard, called Ranchos de Santa Fe, which supplies a roadside stand called The Fruit Basket in the village of Velarde. You can load up on some of the family’s 19 varieties of apples there, along with jellies and jams from last year and a long list of other fruits. The orchard’s 7,000 trees make it the largest in the state, yet it still has a family feel. Farther up the road, a year-round store — the only two-story building in Velarde — is where Eddie’s mom concentrates on selling apples that have been in cold storage and are still available for sale the following spring.

grandfather cultivated the trees. Historically, the valley had about 10 days per year when temperatures hit 100 degrees, but last year had 62 such days, Eddie Velarde said. Trees that were formerly on a 14-day watering cycle are now watered every 10 days. “It makes it hard to grow a good-tasting fruit,” he said. “The peak of the picking season used to fall around Labor Day, but now it’s in August. Global warming is happening.” Early blooms followed by late freezes are also detrimental to local fruit crops, which means farmers who depend on an annual crop also now have to use mechanical frost protection, such as large fans that push warm air toward the ground. So local growers, like the Velardes, depend on every visitor and every family that takes home a bushel of apples. “Our big promotion is that New Mexico should buy New Mexico,” Linda Velarde said, noting that there’s something special “when you get [your fresh fruit] from field to person.” Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


red or Green

First, let’s set the record straight. Elsewhere in the world, they might spell it differently, but here in New Mexico, there’s only one right way to spell it: c-h-i-l-e. Red chile. Green chile. Local chile. New Mexico chile. Not chili. Not chilie. Definitely not chilli. Got it? Good. Because here in New Mexico, chile is serious business. We are willing to go to court over chile. We are willing to go into hiding over chile. Our state lawmakers argue about chile and pass laws about chile. We are the only state in the union with an official state question — “Red or green?” — which refers, of course, to chile, green in its fresh state, red when dried. Several years ago, a friend from the mountain village of Truchas, Sapo Trujillo, brought me a little bag of chile. Unlike most of the deep, musty red chile found in the stores, this one was bright orange. “Sun-dried chile?” I gasped. “Where’d you get it?” “Can’t tell you,” he muttered. “He doesn’t want his name and number out there, or everyone bugs him for his chile.” Trujillo told me that his friend in Velarde grows the chile, slowly sun-dries it in the valley north of Española, incorporates all the seed and flesh, grinds it by hand and sells it only to people he knows. The chile was great. I begged for more, and he brought me a pound. But I never could get Trujillo to tell me the name of the fellow who grew it.

Story by Kristen Davenport • Photos by Kitty Leaken

Families and friends only It’s not easy to find the best chile. Just ask the folks in Chimayó, who sell the valley’s renowned chile to tourists and locals. “Real heritage Chimayó chile is hard to come by,” said Vikki Tejada, whose family owns El Portrero Trading Post, a little shop next to the

Santuario de Chimayó. “We have a long waiting list.” Real Chimayó chile is always dried in the sun, Tejada said, and only a handful of families in the valley grow enough to sell. “I think we buy from only three farmers,” she said. “There are other people who grow it, but they just do it for their families and friends.”

Farmer Matt Romero checks the chiles in his field. 54

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living la vida local

Chiles are among a family’s most valuable possesions Tejada said it’s important to distinguish between Chimayó chile and “heritage” Chimayó chile. Anyone can grow chile in the village of Chimayó — but the official strain of Chimayó chile that was grown in that valley for generations is known as the heritage type. Tejada’s store sells seeds for the heritage strain and mostly just takes names for the dry, ground Chimayó chile, which sells out within weeks of its arrival in the autumn. “The alternative is regular sun-dried chile,” she said. “But that is hard to come by, too. Most people are drying in ovens these days. We contract with growers down south to sun-dry it specifically for us.” Chile that has been dried in the sun retains a lighter color and sweeter flavor, she said. Chile dried in ovens or using heaters often gets a more toasty flavor. Both are good, but the sun-dried variety costs more. Several years ago, a group in Chimayó got together to try to trademark the name “Chimayó chile,” an attempt to help preserve the native variety and protect the name from companies outside the area who use it for marketing purposes. The project created an uproar, as Bueno Foods — an Albuquerque-based company that mass-markets chile across the Southwest — had already requested a trademark on the name. Meetings on the issue turned political, with one 2006 gathering attracting both of New Mexico’s senators at the time, as well as the state’s top economic development official, Rick Homans. As of yet, no “Chimayó chile” trademark has been granted to any party, although a company in Southern New Mexico was granted a trademark on the Hatch chile name despite allegations that the company buys its chile from outside the state. Chile issues have made their way into the state Legislature in recent years, too, with lawmakers discussing how to protect “New Mexico” chile; the Legislature passed laws in 2011 and 2013 aimed at penalizing anyone who claims to be selling “New Mexico” chile when that chile was not grown in the state. Those measures, too, have been controversial among activists and organizers, such as Isaura Andaluz, who says the attempt to protect the name hurts small Northern New Mexico farmers who can’t comply with burdensome state rules regarding proof that products were grown in New Mexico. Andaluz and her group, the Save New Mexico Seeds Coalition, have also been hoping to convince state legislators to halt research at New Mexico State University in Las Cruces on genetically modified chile.

“We oppose this, because it is going to contaminate our seed stock of all our native chile,” Andaluz said. Indeed, she said, some NMSU researchers want to tap into the hundreds of small landrace chile varieties across the state, although many of them were genetically similar to one another, because they are often more resistant to disease and cold than the varieties previously bred by NMSU. “Seeds are living things,” Andaluz said. “They are planted, and they acclimate and adjust to weather, soil and water. So all of our traditional farmers, they’ve been developing these varieties that are really strong in their climate. You take my seed and you grow it up there [in the mountains] and I grow it down here in the valley, and they’ll taste different. The soil and sun and water are different. That’s the beauty of it.”

All in the family Indeed, the family chile varieties in Northern New Mexico were in decades past some of the most valuable possessions a family owned. Ask any Northern New Mexico chile farmer where he got his chile strain, and he’ll talk about his grandma’s seeds and how the family saved their own seed over generations. Matt Romero, the biggest chile farmer at the Santa Fe Farmers Market, got his strain — which he calls Alcalde Improved — from his uncle. His uncle got the chile seeds in the 1980s from the NMSU research station north of Española, which had crossed a thick-fleshed NMSU chile (such as those grown in Hatch for the green chile market) with the “local chile,” which was smaller, gnarlier, hotter and hardier. That variety, dubbed Española Improved, was then brought to Southern New Mexico, where it has been further selected for large chiles with thick flesh. Romero’s variety, meanwhile, retains a lot of its “local” parentage — and is even too hot for the guy who grows it. “I don’t know if I’m getting old or what, but for green chile, I like the [milder] Big Jim,” Romero said. “The Alcalde chile was technically classified as medium hot, but a lot of people say it is really hot. It’s too hot for me.” In addition to the local Alcalde chile, Romero grows the NMSU varieties — Big Jim and Joe Parker — as well as more national varieties such as Poblano, Hungarian Wax, Shishitos and Padrons. But his local chile is the most hardy, by far, he said. In 2012, a lot of Northern New Mexico farmers got hit hard by a late frost on May 31, he said. Many frost-tender plants died. “I lost all my tomato plants, but not a single one of my Alcalde

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

chiles died,” Romero said. “It’s been growing in the same valley for 40 years; it understands late frosts.” Romero sells a lot of his chile fresh at the Santa Fe Farmers Market and other farmers markets, but he used to spend 80 hours a year or so braiding chile into ristras, which he hung from his Dixon home, to the happiness of all his neighbors. These days, though, he has begun drying his chile in his empty autumn hoophouse, spread out on tarps. Although Romero plants several acres of chile each year, most of the growers in Northern New Mexico grow much smaller plots for family, friends and neighbors.

Mixed and matched “We’ve been planting this seed for a long time,” said Estevan Arellano, an Embudo farmer who writes about Northern New Mexico food and culture. “The field we plant, it’s the same chile my mom used to plant.” He seems surprised if you ask him the name of his chile, though.


Where to get your local chile fix Local green chile is available at nearby farmers markets from late July through mid-September, and on roadside stands until sometime in October. Most of the roadside stand chile comes from the southern part of the state — Hatch if you’re lucky — so be sure to ask the vendor where it was grown. Red chile starts appearing by late August or early September, both at the farmers markets and roadside stands.

Dixon Co-op Farmers Market Dixon Elementary School parking lot Wednesdays, 3:30-6:30 p.m. June 13 to October 10

Eldorado Farmers Market La Tienda parking lot, 7 Caliente Rd. Fridays, 4-7 p.m. June 1 to November 2

Embudo Farmers Market

Old Presbyterian Hospital, Hwy. 68, approx. 1/8 mile north of Peñasco intersection Saturdays, 2 p.m.-sellout September 1 to September 29

Española Farmers Market “We don’t have a name for it; it’s just what we’ve been planting,” Arellano said. “It’s called local chile.” The chile that comes out of Hatch has a thick meat, because it’s really been bred for the green chile market — and anyone who has roasted and peeled a bushel of green chile in a New Mexico September knows peeling thin-fleshed chile isn’t that much fun. The local landrace chiles were more typically used to make dry red chile, Arellano said. “My mom used to make ristras,” he said. In the old days, the families would sit around making ristras for days and dry them, then use the chile straight off the ristra. Or, it could be taken and crushed into Caribe chile, or ground into a fine powder. But the meat was usually too thin to be much use as a fresh green chile, Arellano said. In his research, the first reference Arellano

found to chile in the state was in 1580, when an explorer brought some chile seed from its ancestral region in South America into this area. Still, Arellano said, it’s hard to trace the “local chile” back 400 years. “It’s definitely related to those first seeds that came in 1580, but you can’t trace it directly back,” he said. “But these are very old, very old seeds, definitely.” His mother, for her part, didn’t try to protect the family variety from crossing with other families’ chiles, he said. In fact, she believed that to keep their chile vigorous, it was necessary to trade seed with family and friends in Chama or El Guique every few years. For that reason, a lot of growers say it doesn’t necessarily make sense to call one chile the “Chimayó” strain and another chile the “Embudo” strain because it’s probably all mixed up. It’s all sweet. It’s all hot. It’s all good.

The chile connection

1005 N. Railroad Ave. Mondays, 10 a.m.- 5 p.m. June 11 to October 29 Fridays, 2-7 p.m. July 20 to September 21

Los Alamos Farmers Market

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Pecos Farmers Market

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Pojoaque Farmers Market

Poeh Cultural Center, 78 Cities of Gold Rd. off Hwy. 84/285 Wednesdays, 12-6 p.m. & Sundays, 11 a.m.-4 p.m. May 23 to October 14, Sundays starting July 15

Santa Fe Farmers Market

Farmers Market Pavilion, 1607 Paseo de Peralta at Guadalupe Saturdays & Tuesdays, 7 a.m.-12 p.m. Saturday market open year round, Tuesday market open May 1 to November 20

Taos Farmers Market

That New Mexico’s chile is local is indisputable. Almost all the restaurant chile served in Santa Fe restaurants is grown in the Hatch or Mesilla valleys. Although there is no “Hatch” chile variety, the state of New Mexico has put regulations in place that require manufacturers who use “Hatch” on their labels to prove that the chile they’re using is actually grown in Hatch. Many of the restaurants that buy the most local produce by volume are those that serve traditional New Mexican food. George Gundry of Tomasita’s Restaurant and Atrisco Cafe & Bar said that the restaurants used 100,000 pounds of green chile from the Hatch Valley last year. They also buy local produce in season and serve locally raised lamb roast on burritos, grass-fed beef on their burgers, greens in their salads and “lots of local honey.” Jasper Schriber, supervisor at The Shed and La Choza, reported the restaurants used 17,000 pounds of green chile and a mind-boggling 26,000 pounds of dried red chile per year. (The restaurants are known for their red chile sauce.) The Carswells, who own both establishments, have long been known as supporters of the Santa Fe Farmers Market and were one of the earliest supporters of the Farm to Restaurant program. — Pat Greathouse


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Town hall lot on Camino de Placitas Saturdays, 8 a.m.-1 p.m. May 12 to October 27

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For information about farmers markets in New Mexico, visit php.

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S a n t a Fe


A market-fresh meal

Story and Photos by Lois Ellen Frank Going to the Santa Fe Farmers Market is one of my favorite weekly activities. I think it’s one of the best in the Southwest. While I participate in Farm to Table’s Farm to Restaurant program for my catering company, Red Mesa Cuisine — which helps me streamline my orders for larger quantities of produce and cheese — I still go to the market each week to shop for myself and to talk with the farmers who have become my friends and a part of my food community. The Saturday market is the busiest, so getting there early during the peak of the growing season is the secret to finding the best local ingredients. Some weeks this is harder than others; I am a working chef and tend to work nights. Regardless, almost every week I load my favorite denim cloth shopping bag and my handwoven carrying basket into my car and head off to the market. Once I arrive and see all of the farmers and shoppers, it’s like I’ve stepped into another world — one that for me is like a breath of fresh air. Musicians are playing, people are smiling and tasting sweet, 58

tender, locally grown produce, and time seems to have temporarily slowed down, allowing me to savor each farmer’s booth and see what is in season that week.

Favorite fare I always start with a visit to Eloy and Frances Trujillo’s stand to sample their hand-harvested iced cota tea, as it is called in Spanish. The herb from which this tea is made is Thelesperma gracile, also known as Pueblo tea or Indian tea by local tribes. I’m an advocate for locally harvested wild foods and try to buy whatever wild foods I can find at the market. After my tea, I head out to forage for other locally cultivated ingredients. One of the first things I see is fresh rainbow chard; almost every vendor seems to have some in midsummer, and I decide I’ll sauté the chard with garlic as either a first course or side dish for tonight’s dinner. Next, I visit Antonio and Molly Manzanares of Shepherd’s Lamb and purchase some of their organic, locally raised ground lamb for

B ienv eni d os 201 3

a stuffed New Mexico green chile dish — basically a baked relleno — that I plan to serve with an organic heirloom tomato sauce. New Mexico green chiles can be hot, according to local standards, so I always buy the mild variety for this dish. Farmer Matt Romero grows a lot of chiles, and during the season you can watch him roasting his chiles outside the farmers market pavilion building. Next, I find a variety of heirloom tomatoes — orange, yellow, red and purple — that I’ll use in a homemade tomato sauce cooked with local garlic, sweet white onions and fresh basil. Two of my favorite tomato vendors are David and Loretta Fresquez of Monte Vista Organic Farms and Jose Garcia and his family, but when tomatoes are in season, all of the vendors at the market have delicious varieties. My bag is starting to get heavy now, but I still need something for dessert. Northern New Mexico has some of the best apples I’ve ever tasted, so I’ll make an apple crisp, which I’ll serve with homemade whipped cream flavored with canela (Mexican cinnamon). My bags are full of fresh local ingredients and my Saturday morning is complete. Now I can head back to my kitchen, where I’ll prepare tonight’s delicious dinner.

Locally Raised Organic Lamb-Stuffed Green Chiles with Garden Fresh Tomato Purée This recipe, an adaptation of stuffed green bell peppers, combines many Southwestern regional ingredients. It is a favorite of my cooking class students in Santa Fe, as well as the many guests for whom I have prepared this dish. The fresh tomatoes in the purée, which I grow myself or buy at the farmers market when they are in season, are what make this dish so delicious. I’ve made this tomato purée with fresh Roma tomatoes, red plum tomatoes, little yellow pear and green and red zebra tomatoes — all of which taste wonderful. For a spicier flavor, leave the stuffed chiles in the oven a bit longer.

Lamb-Stuffed Green Chiles Serves 6 as an entrée or 12 as an appetizer 12 firm, mild New Mexico green chiles (if you want no heat at all, use an Italian red sweet pepper) 1 tablespoon cooking oil 2/3 cup finely chopped sweet white onions 1-1/2 pounds ground locally raised lamb 1 cup adobe (or other) bread crumbs* 2 ripe tomatoes, diced 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves (or 1/2 teaspoon dried) 2 bay leaves 2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon Sour cream for serving (optional)

Fresh Tomato Purée 1 tablespoon olive oil 6 garlic cloves, minced 1 small sweet white onion, chopped 1-1/4 pounds local organic tomatoes, coarsely chopped

To make the stuffed chiles: Fire roast, peel and seed the chiles, keeping them whole for stuffing. Set aside. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat and sauté the onions about 4 minutes, or until translucent. Add the ground lamb and brown for approximately 10 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent burning, and then mash into small pieces with a slotted spoon or potato masher. Drain off any excess fat and add the tomatoes, garlic, salt, pepper and herbs. Stir. Add the bread crumbs and stir again. Decrease the heat and simmer another 5 minutes. If the mixture is too dry, you may need to add some homemade stock or water so the stuffing is moist enough to slip easily inside each chile. Remove from the heat and let cool. Slice the chiles lengthwise, spread them open on a work surface and generously stuff each chile with the lamb mixture. Place the stuffed chiles on an oiled baking pan with the open side down and set aside. The chiles will be reheated right before they are served. The longer they stay in the oven, the more the chile flavor will penetrate the lamb mixture. To make the tomato purée: Heat the oil in a saucepan over mediumlow heat. Add the onions and sauté until translucent, approximately 3 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté for another minute. Add the tomatoes and cook another 15 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent burning, until the excess liquid evaporates. The sauce will reduce and thicken. At this point you can put the sauce into a blender and process until smooth. You can either run the sauce through a fine sieve to remove any of the skins that are not blended or you can serve the sauce as it is. (Most of the students in my cooking classes prefer this sauce in its more rustic state.) Set aside. To finish the dish: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place the stuffed chiles in the baking dish in the oven and heat until hot, about 5 to 10 minutes. Serve immediately topped with the tomato purée. Garnish with sour cream, if desired. *Adobe bread is yeasted oven bread made in New Mexico by many of the Puebloan Indians. If you cannot get adobe bread, you can use any non-sourdough yeasted bread to make these bread crumbs. To make the crumbs, use day-old bread that has hardened or fresh bread that has been toasted in the oven. Place in a food processor and process until the bread crumbs are finely ground without being completely ground into a powder. The peppers are not large and I don’t want bread crumbs too large for the chiles. My rule for bread crumbs: The smaller the object to be stuffed, the smaller the bread crumb.

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


r o v a S



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Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


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On the menu, off the farm Story b y Pat ri c i a G rea t h o u se • P h otos by Ki tty L ea ke n


B ienv eni d os 201 3

Ingredient-driven cuisine bringing the field to your fork is a truly eco-conscious experience. Once upon a time all fresh food was locally sourced. Back when many people farmed, gardened or bought food from a neighborhood vendor, everyone ate seasonally, putting away the harvest for winter. Now, through national and international food distribution, “fresh” unripened pears, blueberries from the Southern Hemisphere and tomatoes from Holland are available all year long. But the price we pay for worldwide food distribution is not just flavorless produce — it’s also a complex system of sourcing dependent on fossil fuels. First, produce is harvested and trucked to points within its country of origin, where it’s shipped by boat or cargo plane to distribution centers in the United States. It’s then trucked to local distribution centers that in turn send it off to neighborhood supermarkets. Those fruits and veggies may be more than three weeks old by the time we buy them. Because the produce is harvested before it has fully ripened, chefs find coaxing flavor from these nationally and

Sourcing close to home Several Santa Fe restaurants are avidly working with local and regional farmers and ranchers to put fresher, more flavorful food on their tables. Tree House Pastry Shop & Café chef/owner Maria Bustamante-Bernal — whose motto is “Eat like it matters” — said that because her restaurant focuses on vegetarian, organically raised food, everything on the menu is local in summer. In winter, much of the produce she uses is the seasonal harvest she roasted, blanched, froze and canned during the summer. “It’s more time consuming, and we spend time running around,” she said, “but it’s worth it to me to be an integrated part of the community. We go to anyone who is growing organically to buy.” She believes that more people are opening up restaurants with awareness and the intention of using locally grown food. The mission statement for Joe’s Dining promises “to

internationally sourced foods next to impossible, which is why

strengthen our health, to protect our land, to grow our economy

many are taking a longer look at another choice — seasonal and

by serving local sustainable food” — and chef/owner Roland

local products that not only make sense in terms of flavor and

Richter delivers on that promise. At the height of summer,

nutrition but also in terms of energy and economy.

95 percent of the produce and meats in his kitchen is locally

Left, chef/owner Roland Richter makes his own mozzarella for his caprese salad at Joe’s Dining. Paillard of Pollo Real Breast of Label Rouge chicken, char grilled summer vegetables, ripe tomato salad, baby arugula, yellow pepper coulis served at Il Piatto Italian Farmhouse Kitchen Appeasement salad served at Vinaigrette Facing page, Chef Matt Yohalem, Il Piatto Italian Farmhouse Kitchen

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


Erin Wade, owner of Vinaigrette, cultivates 10 acres of raised beds at her Nambé farm. sourced. “My customers demand [local produce] and they are

Vinaigrette’s farm provides about 50 percent of the restaurant’s

willing to pay a little more for it,” Richter said. “We are always

produce at the height of the season, but the busier it becomes,

improvising. We use our standard menu as the basis and add

the more the restaurant buys from other producers. Farms in

daily specials that reflect what is in the farmers market.”

either cooler or warmer environments can extend the season for

During the week, bulk deliveries of Rasband Farms milk and

local sourcing immensely, so Vinaigrette sources greens from

Sweetgrass beef arrive at the restaurant, but on the weekend

places like Boxcar Farm in Llano, which has more acreage and a

Richter goes to the market to see what’s new. “At the farmers

longer, cooler season.

market, growers can get a premium price, but they have to really

In season, chef/owner Louis Moskow of 315 Restaurant &

work at it, standing in their booth and selling for hours on end,”

Wine Bar buys three-quarters of his produce directly from the

Richter said. He is a great fan of farmer Matt Romero, he said.

farmers market. He likes to shop with his eyes, he said, and

“His produce always looks great, he sautés and roasts peppers

what he sees inspires his menus. He buys meats and produce

and he’s a showman.”

in volume to get good deals and finds he gets better quality and

Erin Wade, owner of Vinaigrette, cultivates 10 acres of raised

longer shelf life from his farmers market purchases as well. One

beds at her Nambé farm. The newest 3-acre permaculture beds

of Moskow’s most popular summer items is squash blossoms,

make use of the restaurant’s own compost. “At the height of

for which he goes to the market twice a week. At one time, he

the season, the farm cranks out a lot of produce,” Wade said.

said, he didn’t appreciate basics like onions, potatoes and garlic,

“Our arugula and mixed greens total 200 pounds a week.”

but he’s seen the difference they can make. “Using the farmers

Vinaigrette’s menu revolves around salads, and washing and

market allows me to create so much more flavor,” he said. “I can

stemming greens takes lots of work. Because her farm supports

taste things in different parts of my mouth [and] I never had

the restaurant, Wade said, it’s easier to do things more labor

experienced that before.” Moskow likes Gemini Farms’ root

intensively than it might be if they were buying produce — and

vegetables and market tomatoes roasted in duck fat, and he’s

the improvement in flavor and nutrition of fresh local produce

amused that “Sun Greens sprouts have a shelf life almost as long

is worth the extra effort. “Trying to impose a business model

as turnips.”

on a natural cycle means taking limitations and being inspired by them, using things in abundance creatively,” she said.

Chef Matt Yohalem, a well-known supporter of Farm to Table New Mexico — an organization that has been helping farmers

Left, detail of the Appeasement salad served at Vinaigrette Center, Joe’s Dining serves freshly made mozzarella with grilled peppers. 315 Restaurant & Wine Bar serves a plate of local meat specialties, or charcuteries. Facing page, One of Louis Moskow’s most popular summer items at 315 Restaurant & Wine Bar is stuffed squash blossoms, which he buys at the farmers market. Photo by Jackie Munro


B i env eni d os 201 3

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


Mu Jing Lau, of Mu Du Noodles, thrives on the creative use of local vegetables during the summer. make connections to local markets since 1996 — shops at the

of the other’s resources without exchanging money. Jing Lau

farmers market for his restaurant, Il Piatto. He can get tomatoes,

said farmers market products “are so much better on some

chard, cabbages, arugula, potatoes and value-added things like

levels, although also harder to use on other levels and less

mustards, chutneys, shiitake mushrooms and baby lettuces at

predictable. Farmers would like to get retail prices, but they give

almost any time of year, he said. Locally raised meats are harder

[restaurateurs] a break.” Because she is committed to helping the

for him to use, Yohalem said, because the processing plants are

farmers, she admitted, her food is more expensive. “They’re my

out of state, which means the meat comes frozen and the cuts

community,” she emphasized. “Gary Gunderson is an old-time

are not uniform. However, he does use Pollo Real chickens and

farmer that I use a lot — a full-time farmer who raises amazing

livers and odd cuts like tongue — especially lamb tongue — when

lettuces!” Because she sees locally raised food as insurance

they’re available. More than half of the featured items on his

for the future, Jing Lau would like to see community support

menu come from the farmers market.

for farmers extend beyond buying products. “The character

Mu Jing Lau, chef/owner of Mu Du Noodles, thrives on the

for problem in Chinese also means opportunity,” she said,

creative use of fresh, local vegetables during the summer. She

“and although times may be hard financially, it’s a good time to

gets a lot of benefit from trading her food with farmers for

reassess our relationship to the food community and to where

their goods, she said, because each party receives the benefit

our food comes from.”

Left, The mission statement for Joe’s Dining promises “to strengthen our health, to protect our land, to grow our economy by serving local sustainable food” — and chef/owner Roland Richter delivers on that promise. Center, Erin Wade, owner of Vinaigrette Right, Chef/owner Louis Moskow of 315 Restaurant & Wine Bar

315 Restaurant & Wine Bar

Joe’s Dining

Atrisco Cafe & Bar

La Choza

315 Old Santa Fe Trail, 505-986-9190 Dinner daily; call or reserve online

193 Paseo de Peralta, 505-983-7401 Lunch and dinner daily; weekend breakfast

Caffe Greco

233 Canyon Road, 505-820-7996 Breakfast, lunch, coffee and snacks daily

Il Piatto Italian Farmhouse Kitchen

95 W. Marcy Ave., 505-984-1091 Lunch and dinner daily; reservations at

2801 Rodeo Road, 505-471-3800 Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily; call for reservations 905 Alarid St., 505-982-0909 Lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday; call for reservations

Mu Du Noodles

1494 Cerrillos Road, 505-983-1411 Dinner Tuesday-Saturday; call for reservations

The Shed

113 E. Palace Ave., 505-982-9030 Lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday; call for reservations 70

B ienv eni d os 201 3

Tomasita’s Restaurant

500 S. Guadalupe St., 505-983-5721 Lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday

Tree House Pastry Shop & Cafe

167 Paseo de Peralta, 505-474-5543 Breakfast and lunch, Monday through Saturday


709 Don Cubero Ave., 505-820-9205 Lunch and dinner; dinner reservations at

Santa Fe IndIan Market August 17-18, 2013 Experience art, cinema, fashion, traditional music and dance throughout the week of August 12-18.

swaia santa fe indian market

BeautIFul artwork donated For SFIM SIlent auctIon and lIve auctIon Gala By: From top row left to right: Bracelet, Monty Claw (Diné); Bracelet, David McElroy (Choctaw); Print, Alex Peña (Comanche/San Ildefonso); Bracelet, Shane Hendren (Navajo); Necklace, Al Joe (Diné); Bracelet, Samuel LaFountain (Navajo/Turtle Mountain Chippewa); Mixed Media, Melissa Melero (Paiute); Bracelet, Mark D. Stevens (Laguna Pueblo); Painting, Nocona Burgess (Comanche); Silver Box and Necklace, Carlton Jamon (Zuni); Necklace, Janice Black Elk (Lakota/Rosebud) and Daniel Jim (Diné); Bronze Sculpture, Vincent Kaydahzinne (Mescalero Apache); Glass Mosaic, Angela Babby (Oglala Sioux); Sculpture, Kathy Whitman-Elk Woman (Mandan/Hidatsa/Arikara); Micaceous Pot, Dominique Toya (Jemez Pueblo); Painting, William B. Franklin (Diné); Necklace, Tonya June Rafael (Diné)

vISIt SantaFeIndIanMarket.coM/eventS For More InForMatIon

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


The seeds of change Religious ceremonies such as the Corn Dance and Harvest Dance attest to the importance of farming as a way of life among Puebloan people, although that heritage nearly died out in the second half of the 20th century. Committed efforts by both Pueblo governments and individuals are slowly reviving this agrarian heritage. “The land has sustained all the tribes for generations, since they first came to this area, and there’s no reason you can’t sustain people now and even provide a livelihood,” said George Toya, who directs the farming program for Nambe Pueblo. “It’s very rewarding when your labor can sustain you. It’s something you have to do to really understand what it’s all about. It’s a great way to live.” Several Northern New Mexico pueblos have instituted farming programs that have common elements: growing vegetables and fruits without pesticides or fertilizers, replenishing heritage seed banks and reintroducing healthy food to tribal members to reduce the toll of diet-related diseases such as diabetes and high blood pressure. Most programs also encourage individuals to farm by providing community garden space or helping prepare fields and mentoring novice farmers. A small portion of the food may be sold at farmers markets or to other venues, but the emphasis is on distribution to tribal members, particularly to the most vulnerable. Senior centers, day care and Head Start programs are often beneficiaries of the bounty. Nambe’s program began just last year, with a focus on revitalizing fields that have lain dormant for 20-plus years and encouraging Pueblo members to plant their own fields. Grants from First Nations and the Chamisa Foundation include an educational element, so Toya arranged canning workshops and a summer youth program. A Santa Claran basketmaker taught others to make willow harvest baskets for gathering corn. At harvest time a feast was prepared using produce from the fields and meat from the pueblo’s bison herd. Every family was sent home with a bag of produce.

By Arin McKenna

Investing in people Tesuque Pueblo has been cultivating alfalfa and a few other crops for 20 years, making it one of the oldest agricultural initiatives. But the program was transformed when Emigdio Ballon became director eight years ago. A four-man team consisting of Ballon, Gailey Morgan, Randy Moquino and Everth Reynolds —with some additional seasonal help for weeding — cultivates heritage bean and corn varieties, tobacco, herbs, mushrooms, asparagus and chile. They plan to add 350 to 500 fruit trees to their 5-year-old, 750-tree orchard. The team has built three greenhouses and — with the help of Tesuque government and members — a passive-solar seed bank. They make their own compost and starter soil, manage 10 beehives and prepare fields for tribal members. They also process their harvest into end products such as apple juice or dried fruit, flour and chile powder. Ballon is committed to both heritage seeds and heritage farming methods. Water-saving irrigation systems are incorporated into the practice, but machinery is used as little as possible. That means many tasks — like transplanting between 35,000 and 60,000 seedlings — are done by hand. The team also offers prayer before its weekly meeting and performs traditional ceremonies during planting. Other than selling part of the medicinal herb crop to local herbal companies, the harvest benefits Pueblo members. “In this society we mostly think about producing, how much money you can make,” Ballon said. “But one of the most important things for me is how much food I can produce for the demands of the pueblo. That’s one of the best things you can invest in — your own people.”

The way things were Frances Quintana is director of agriculture for Pojoaque Pueblo. In addition to cultivating crops, she teaches weekly cooking classes funded through the Administration for Native Americans, part of the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services. “We do healthy cooking classes,” she said, “trying to get our

Natalie GuillÉn

Emigdio Ballon, Tesuque Pueblo agricultural director, harvests cherries at the pueblo farm. Work at the farm is done by hand with the goal of preserving the pueblo farm traditions and producing fruits and vegetables for the tribal members.


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A farming revival is under way in Northern New Mexico Pueblos people to eat healthier, eat more fresh vegetables and leaner meats to help all the problems we have on our pueblo with diabetes, high blood pressure, hypertension and any other illnesses that seem to be plaguing our tribal members.” Quintana also oversees Pojoaque’s farmers market. Some of the program’s produce is sold there, as well as through Farm-to-Restaurant (an organization that helps match restaurants with local food producers), to subsidize the cost of providing fruits and vegetables to tribal members. “Getting our produce to all of the people in my community is my priority,” Quintana said. She also encourages Pueblo members to start their own gardens by mentoring and preparing fields for them, and she encourages people to include their children in gardening work. “One of the most important things we have to do is encourage our people to start going back to how things were before.”

Planting tradition Farm mentor and Tewa instructor Tim Martinez runs San Ildefonso Pueblo’s farm program. Now in its fourth year, it was the brainchild of director of education Lana Paolillo. A key element of the initiative is employing youth and young adults in the summer. Martinez and former farm mentor Darryl Martinez, who volunteers for the program, combines farming instruction with lessons in the Tewa language and cultural traditions. “I tell them, these are the things you will carry in your heart. When I was your age, I didn’t think it was important, either — now look at me,” Martinez said. “It’s important to teach these things.” Grants from several organizations helped kick-start the program, including a donation of 250 fruit trees from the Fruit Tree Planting Foundation. With the help of Northern New Mexico College, Martinez is developing a business plan to help grow the program, make it sustainable and employ more tribal members. Artist Gerald Nailor began the agricultural revival at Picuris Pueblo during one of his stints as governor, growing vegetables and alfalfa for the tribe’s bison herd. Nailor is teaching young people the traditions he learned growing up. “I taught it to the youngsters so they would keep it going, even teaching them how to irrigate, telling them stories about how to spread the alfalfa seeds,” Nailor

Without corn there is no song Without song there is no dance Without dance there is no rain Without rain there is no corn. If corn dies, we die. There are more planting songs than cornfields now. (Source: Robert Mirabal from Believe in the Corn Manual for Puebloan Corn Growing co-authored with Nelson Zink)

said. “And they really enjoyed it, throwing the seed — ‘Not against the wind ... with the wind.’ ”

From the ground up Not all the agricultural activity on the pueblos is initiated by tribal government. At Taos Pueblo, Nelson Zink and two-time Grammy winner Robert Mirabal started what they called a “revolution.” Mirabal grew up with his grandparents, for whom farming was a way of life. “I kind of just got burned out with myself and decided to reconnect with something that was more tangible from my childhood that I could really relate to on a different level than my music,” Mirabal said. “It wasn’t enough to just grow a garden. It was much more satisfying and much more appealing to have grander fields like I remember as a child and to work those grand fields of corn and squash, beans and traditional crops.” The pair reconditioned an old tractor that Zink got by trading with his brother, which they use not only for their own fields but also to help others. “We’ve probably reconditioned over 100 fields, whether it’s small garden plots or new plots or old plots that are being re-established,” Mirabal said. The most the two ask in return is gas money — and sometimes not even that. The musician also collects heritage seed during his travels and is now experimenting with cross-breeding to develop seeds highly adaptable to the Northern New Mexico climate.

Jane Phillips

Rico Montenegro, chief certified arborist with The Fruit Tree Planting Foundation, shows the students of San Ildefonso day school and volunteers how to plant trees at San Ildefonso Pueblo last year.

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


Tweaking tradition Pueblo buffalo herds put modern spin on centuries-old staple The slaughter of the Great Plains bison herds by hunters, ranchers, farmers, railroad workers, sportsmen and soldiers during the 19th century deprived American Indians of a critical food source. In recent years, recognizing the health benefits of bison meat, many pueblos have begun to re-establish herds to provide meat to their people. Taos Pueblo has the oldest herd, begun with bison donated by cattle rancher Charles Goodnight in the early 1900s. It is now the largest herd in the area, with 120 bison. Taos joined the Intertribal Bison Cooperative in the 1980s and began working on the economic health of the herd. “What I’m trying to do is get the meat back into our community’s diet,” said Delbert Chisholm, director of the Taos Pueblo Bison Program. “As you know, there’s a cost associated with that, so that’s where the sale of animals [comes in].” Chisholm conducted a needs assessment last year and provided meat for 194 tribal members before Christmas. “We’re going to continue with that this year, so it’s going to give me a clearer picture of our actual needs of our community and how much [meat] we would need to have on hand on an annual basis for them.” This year he also plans to distribute meat before Thanksgiving and some traditional feast days. The pueblo is now constructing a small processing facility built to U.S. Department of Agriculture specifications to process meat for Pueblo members. Robert Herrera and Phillip Viarreal co-direct the Pueblo of Pojoaque Bison Program, which has 29 animals. “Our main purpose is for the tribal people, for consumption as well as for the byproducts for traditional purposes,” Viarreal said. “It’s a good thing to try to encourage — especially if you like to eat meat regularly. When you eat bison that’s raised over here without chemicals and without hormones and all this stuff, you’re getting a really good harvest.” Herrera and Viarreal want to grow the herd to 50 or 60 head so they can begin commercial production on a small scale, but the plan faces some challenges. The pueblo’s 1000-acre pastureland is already overgrazed, and augmenting the herd’s diet with a half-ton bale of hay and 100 pounds of range pellets every two days is expensive. The program received a grant to install a water system last year, and another grant will pay for a fenced field. The plan is to grow grass to replace purchased feed. “The community is more than welcome to come up to [visit] the herd,” Viarreal said. “We are encouraging people to bring their children, bring their classrooms to come [see] the animals. It’s something that we want to do.” To arrange a tour, call 505-455-2278. — Arin McKenna


B ienv eni d os 201 3

Decline of Puebloan agriculture tied to land loss, dispersal The Ancestral Puebloans began farming in New Mexico thousands of years ago. Archaeologists disagree as to when corn — part of a food triangle called the “Three Sisters” — made its way from South America to Southern New Mexico, but it may have been as early as 4,500 years ago. By 1500 B.C., corn cultivation was widespread. The second sister, squash, was being cultivated by 1000 B.C., and sister number 3, beans — made its entrance to the region about 750 A.D. Melons and pumpkins were also an important part of the traditional Puebloan diet. As agriculture developed, so did Ancestral Puebloan culture. People began building pit houses around A.D. 550, and by 750 the first small villages appeared. The culture reached its peak between 800 and 1200. When those villages were abandoned — which archaeologists and oral histories attribute to severe and protracted drought — the Puebloans carried their agricultural heritage with them and passed it down to their “I just love to work descendents. in the fields because Farming’s decline on the pueblos began with the loss I like to tease the of tribal lands after New rainclouds.” Mexico became a United States territory, but it was in Robert Mirabal no danger of dying out until after World War II. Former Picuris Pueblo governor and artist Gerald Nailor attributes much of the decline directly to the war and the alcoholism that afflicted men returning from it. “When a person becomes an alcoholic,” he said, “everything is lost. They begin selling their wagons, they begin selling their tools, their horses....’” The 1956 Indian Relocation Act was even more devastating. The U.S. government offered incentives for leaving the pueblos and reservations and moving to designated cities. Farming was one of many cultural traditions nearly lost in the decades that followed. Puebloan people today are reinventing tradition by learning what they can from elders who continue to farm, exchanging knowledge and seeking advice from a variety of sources. As musician and farmer Robert Mirabal points out, the path forward demands more “radical instincts” than the collective endeavors of the past. “To try to create from what was lost, that’s a very poor place to begin. We have to begin from where we are now,” Mirabal said. “We have to create the seed that will grow faster. We have to create the seed that will sustain us now, not the seed that sustained us in the past.” Yet on other levels, the partnership with nature reflected in ancient farming traditions and ceremonies is as prevalent today as it was in the past. As Mirabal put it, “I just love to work in the fields because I like to tease the rainclouds.” — Arin McKenna

Directions Acoma Pueblo: 505-552-6604 or 800-747-018 or South on Interstate 25 to I-40 West to Exit 102. Turn right and follow the curved road toward Sky City Casino. Turn right at the stop sign, and travel approximately 16 miles south to Sky City Cultural Center. Cochiti Pueblo: 505-465-2244 or South on I-25 to exit 259, then north 14 miles on N.M. 22. Jemez Pueblo: 575-834-7235, tourism@jemezpueblo. org or North on U.S. 84/285 to N.M. 502, which becomes Trinity Drive in Los Alamos. Follow Trinity Drive until it ends at Diamond Drive and turn left. Turn right on N.M. 501, then right on N.M. 4 to Jemez. Laguna Pueblo: 505-552-6654 or South on I-25 to I-40 West. Take Exit 114 to N.M. 279 and follow the signs. Nambe Pueblo: 505-455-2036 or North on U.S. 84/285 to N.M. 503. Two miles to pueblo’s entrance on the right. Ohkay Owingeh: 505-852-4400. North on U.S. 84/285, which becomes N.M. 68. Left on N.M. 74 (north of Española), then one mile west to pueblo. Picuris Pueblo: 575-587-2519. Take U.S. 84/285 north. Turn east on N.M. 503. Continue 11 miles to Juan Medina Road, then turn left. Turn right when Juan Medina Road ends at N.M. 76. Continue on N.M. 76 when it turns left at Truchas. Turn left when N.M. 76 ends at N.M. 75. The pueblo’s entrance is a quarter mile on the right. Pojoaque Pueblo: 505-455-2278. North on U.S. 84/285. Turn right at second stoplight in Pojoaque, with an immediate left on Cities of Gold Road. Continue past the Cities of Gold Casino and up the hill to the church. San Felipe Pueblo: 505-867-3381. South on I-25 and take Exit 252 and travel north 2 miles. San Ildefonso Pueblo: 505-455-3549. North on U.S. 84/285 to N.M. 502. Six miles west on N.M. 502. Sandia Pueblo: 505-867-3317 or Call for schedule of dances. South on I-25 to Exit 234. Northwest on N.M. 556 two miles, then north on N.M. 313 for three miles.

Pueblo Feast Days celebrate spirit, tradition

Feast Day dances at the Pueblos are among the most profoundly moving religious ceremonies. The heartbeat of the drums, the voices raised in prayer and the movements of the sacred dance transcend any language barrier. The Pueblos that share this experience with visitors offer a very generous gift. Although these dances are now presented on the feast day of the Pueblo’s saint or during Christmas rather than on the Winter Solstice, this form of worship is ancient. The dances have been passed down from generation to generation for centuries, using song, drumming and dance to give thanks for the Creator’s blessings and to every form of life that sacrifices itself to give us life. “I would encourage people who have never been to a feast to come out and experience it one day at least,” said Elmer Torres, tribal member and former governor of San Ildefonso. “Don’t be shy about coming out to the Pueblo. Just come over, enjoy the day and — without being disrespectful — just sit there and enjoy yourselves.” Each dance is a ceremony of religious significance to Pueblo members. Other rituals are private and internal. Tribal leaders restrict access to some events and sometimes reschedule dances. Visitors should call ahead to confirm event dates and protocol, as well as access to tribal lands. Pueblo offices are usually closed on feast day. Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

Santa Ana Pueblo: 505-867-3301 or South on I-25 and take Exit 242 to U.S. 550/N.M. 44 West for 10 miles. Santa Clara Pueblo: 505-753-7330. Call in advance to determine whether the pueblo is dancing. Take U.S. 84/285 north to N.M. 502 West. North on N.M. 30 to the pueblo’s entrance. Santo Domingo Pueblo: 505-465-2214. South on I-25 and off at Exit 259. North four miles on N.M. 22. Taos Pueblo: 575-758-9593 or North on U.S. 84/285, which becomes N.M. 68. Pass through Taos to entrance. Tesuque Pueblo: 505-983-2667. North on U.S. 84/285 nine miles and follow the signs to the pueblo. Zia Pueblo: 505-867-3304. South on I-25. Take Exit 242 to U.S. 550/N.M. 44. West for 18 miles.


Rules of etiquette for Pueblo visitation Visiting pueblos or attending feast day dances are remarkable opportunities to experience another culture and religion. Showing respect for the Pueblo regulations and etiquette allows you to have a rich and rewarding experience without committing a cultural faux pas.

• Call ahead to confirm event dates, as well as access to tribal lands. • Although most pueblos are open to the public during daylight hours, the homes are private. Enter a Pueblo home as you would any other — by invitation only.

• Pueblos are not amusement parks or living-history museums but residential communities. Behave as you would want others to in your community.

• Some pueblos may charge an entry fee. Camping and fishing fees are charged

where such facilities are available. Call ahead to find out if fees are associated with visiting.

• Sketching, recording and any other means of audio or visual reproduction

Pueblo feast days and events May 25–27 Jemez Pueblo, Annual Red Rocks Arts & Crafts Show. Traditional dances Friday and Saturday, powwow on Monday. June 1 Tesuque Pueblo, blessing of the fields and Corn Dance. June 13 St. Anthony Feast Day. Corn Dances at Sandia and Taos pueblos, Comanche Dance at Santa Clara, children’s foot races at Picuris, dances at Ohkay Owingeh. June 24 Ohkay Owingeh, Taos Pueblo, St. John the Baptist Feast.

are prohibited at most pueblos, although most do allow photography with the purchase of a camera permit. Permits usually cost $5 to $15 and may be purchased at tribal offices or visitor centers. (At many pueblos, camera permits may only be purchased at tribal offices Monday through Friday.) Never photograph an individual or private property without asking permission. Tribal officials may confiscate cameras, cell phones or other equipment if photography regulations are violated.

• Refrain from bringing a cell phone onto pueblos. Tribal officials might confiscate cell phones if they feel they might be used for photography or recording.

• Tribes value traditions, customs and religion. Some actions or questions could be offensive, so refrain from pressing for answers.

July 4 Nambe Pueblo, Winter Buffalo, Spear, Yellow Corn, White Buffalo and Comanche dances.

July 13–15 27th Annual Taos Pueblo Powwow.

• Do not climb ladders or on walls and other structures. • Do not remove artifacts, pottery shards or other tempting items. • Kivas and cemeteries are off-limits to non-Puebloan people. Churches may also be off-limits and are definitely closed to non-Puebloan people if surrounded by a cemetery.

July 14 Cochití Pueblo, St. Bonaventure Feast Day, Corn Dances. July 25 Taos Pueblo, Santiago Feast Day. July 26 Santa Ana, Taos Pueblo, Santa Ana Feast Day. August 2 Jemez Pueblo, San Diego Feast Day. August 4 Santo Domingo Pueblo, Saint Domingo Feast Day and Corn Dance. August 9 Picuris Pueblo, San Lorenzo Sunset Vespers. August 10 Picuris Pueblo, San Lorenzo Annual Feast Day. August 12 Santa Clara Pueblo, Santa Clara Feast Day. Buffalo Dance and other dances.

• Alcohol, weapons and drugs are not allowed in the pueblos. • Do not bring dogs to the pueblos. • Nature is sacred on the pueblos. Littering is strictly prohibited. • Obey all traffic and speed limit signs. Children and pets play near the roads. Also be cautious of livestock on or near main roads.

• Observe all signage indicating what’s off-limits while visiting a pueblo. • If organized tours are offered, stay with your tribal guide at all times.

Rules of etiquette during ceremonial dances:

• Pueblo dances are religious ceremonies, not performances. Observe them as

you would a church service — with respect and quiet attention. Do not interrupt non-dance participants by pushing in front of them, blocking their view, asking questions or visiting with friends.

August 15 Laguna Pueblo, Harvest Dance and other dances. August 15 Zia Pueblo, Assumption of Our Blessed Mother’s Feast Day.

• Photography is usually prohibited on feast days. • Silence is mandatory during all dances and Pueblo ceremonies. This means

August 17-18 Santa Fe Indian Market. August 28 Isleta Pueblo, San Augustine Feast Day.

no questions about the ceremonies or dances while they are underway and no applause during or after the dance or ceremony.

August 31 September 1-2 Santo Domingo Labor Day Arts and Crafts Fair.

• Do not talk to the dancers or approach them as they are entering, leaving or

September 2 Acoma Pueblo, San Estevan Feast Day. Harvest Dances.

resting near the kivas.

September 4 Isleta Pueblo, San Augustine Feast Day.

• Plazas have been blessed for the dances and are considered holy space. Do not walk across a plaza even if the dancing has stopped: Keep to the edges.

September 10 San Ildefonso Pueblo, Corn Dance. September 19 Laguna Pueblo, St. Joseph’s Feast Day. Buffalo, Eagle and social

• Tribal communities do not use the clock to determine when it is time to conduct


activities. Acts of nature, as well as the sequence of events that must take place, usually determine ceremonial start and finish times.

September 29 Taos Pueblo, San Geronimo Eve Vespers.

• If you are fortunate enough to receive an invitation to a feast day meal, you

September 30 Taos Pueblo, Feast of San Geronimo. Dances, races, pole climb,

arts and crafts fair.

October 4 Nambe, St. Francis Feast Day. For more listings of events, go to or

should observe some simple guidelines. If the table is full, join those waiting in the living room until everyone who arrived before you has had a chance to be served. Do not linger at the table. It is polite to take desserts such as fruit pies as you leave so that others can be seated. Thank your host, but a payment or tip is not appropriate. (Assembled from a number of sources, including Than Povi Fine Art Gallery, — Arin McKenna


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TAOS Taos Pueblo

Picuris Pueblo

Ohkay Owingeh Pueblo

Santa Clara Pueblo Nambé Pueblo

San Ildefonso Pueblo

Nambé Falls Pojoaque

POJOAQUE Tesuque Pueblo


Cochiti Lake

Nambé Pueblo Ohkay Owingeh Pueblo Picuris Pueblo Pojoaque Pueblo

San Ildefonso Pueblo Santa Clara Pueblo Taos Pueblo Tesuque Pueblo

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico




20 APRIL – 16 JUNE 2013 AGAIN: Repetition, Obsession and Meditation in the Lannan Collection

Lannan Gallery 309 Read Street Tel. 505.954.5149 Gallery Hours: Saturdays and Sundays noon to 5pm (weekends only or by appointment)

Again features artworks where repetition, obsession or meditation, are key elements to the artist’s process, sometimes obvious in the resulting artwork, sometimes not. Whether what compels each is expressed as a life-long obsession with a subject, such as the bird for Jean-Luc Mylayne, or a repetitive action, as seen in prints by Sol LeWitt and Agnes Martin, or a meditative practice that results in an object like Susan York’s hand-polished solid graphite sculptures, the artists in this exhibition repeat themes, motions, motifs and materials again and again, over and over.


Renate Aller Stuart Arends Uta Barth Chuck Close Olafur Eliasson Lawrence Fodor

Martha Hughes Cassandra C. Jones Sol LeWitt David Marshall Agnes Martin Pard Morrison

Jean-Luc Mylayne Jorge Pardo Buzz Spector Roger Walker Susan York

Image: Olafur Eliasson, The Lighthouse Series, 1999, Twenty color photographs, 9½ x 14¼ inches each, Collection Lannan Foundation.

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Jennifer Esperanza


MAKE MUSIC MANANA June 22 / On the Plaza Live Local Music with a Global Vision Presented by Santa Fe Music Alliance


RINGSIDE BOWL GRAND OPENING PARTY July 5 / Inside Ringside and Outside on the Plaza Music, Food Truck Smackdown & Family Fun Presented by Ringside LLC

Every other Friday night at dusk June 7– August 30 Produced by Heath Concerts

May 19: Round Mountain June 9: Paper Bird June 29: DNumbers July 27: Big Sandy & His Fly-Rite Boys August 3: Guy Forsyth August 30: ZozoFest with La Junta & more And More to Come! Presented by Heath Concerts

BIKE TO WORK WEEK FINALE May 17/ On the Plaza Presented by the City of Santa Fe DEAD DUB SOCIETY DANCE PARTY May 25 / On the Plaza Presented by the Dead Dub Society CURRENTS 2013 INTERNATIONAL NEW MEDIA SHOW • June 14 & 29 Inside El Museo & Outside on the Plaza Presented by Parallel Studios SANTA FE PRIDE • June 22 / In the Park Presented by the Human Rights Alliance

INTERNATIONAL FOLK ART MARKET COMMUNITY CELEBRATION July 11/ In the Park Welcome the best Folk Artists from all over the World. With Ihhashi Elimhlope & the West African Highlife Band. Presented by IFAM TROUBLEMAKERS’ BALL • August 17 Inside Farmers Market Hall & Outside under the Shade Structure Native American Music & Arts Festival Presented by Gonzo Drive Records KEEP IT CO-OP CONCERT • August 21 With Craig Carothers & Don Henry Presented by Del Norte Credit Union ZOZOFEST • August 30

SANTA FE FARMERS 1ST ANNUAL GREEN CHILI FESTIVAL September 7 & 8 / Inside Farmers Market Hall & Outside on the Plaza Presented by the Santa Fe Farmers Market AHA FESTIVAL September 14 / On the Plaza Progressive Music & Arts Fair Presented by After Hours Alliance STATION TO STATION • September 20 Inside El Museo, On the Plaza and the Tracks Art, Film & Music event from artist Doug Aitken. Presented by Station to Station LLC FIESTA FELA • October 12 / In the Park African Art & Music Festival Presented by Afreeka Santa Fe CONTINUING: SANTA FE FARMERS MARKET Tuesdays & Saturdays / 7am –12:30pm Inside Farmers Market Hall & Outside on the Plaza SANTA FE ARTISTS MARKET Saturdays / 8am–2pm / In the Park

Inside El Museo & Outside on the Plaza Pre-Zozobra Public Preview With La Junta, Fiesta Royalty & more Presented by the Kiwanis Club BOYS & GIRLS CLUB FUN FAIR August 31/ In the Park Games & Fun for all Ages! With Tobias Rene, Sol Fire & More Presented by Boys & Girls Club of Santa Fe




Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico





Enrique Martínez Celaya

The Pearl

JULY 13–OCT 13, 2013





A new experimental project space at SITE adjoining our front lobby

NEAR THE FARMER’S MARKET Saturdays April thru December 8:00 am to 1:00 pm

SITE lab 1


Marco Brambilla: Creation (Megaplex) PHOTO: KATE RUSSELL

ONE BLOCK EAST OF THE PLAZA 10:00 am to 5:00 pm July 6 - 7, October 5 - 6, October 12 - 13

JUNE 8—30, 2013

1606 Paseo de Peralta, Santa Fe, NM 87501 505.989.1199


Park for only $1!


at the underground garage by REI

Farmers Markets

Tuesday & Saturday October–May 8 am–1 pm • June–September 7 am–noon

Railyard Artisan Market

Sunday 10 am–4 pm, year 'round

celebrations Solstice Party June 22nd Celebrate the solstice with local food, beer and wine, music, dancing and more. Farm Tour August 4th Tour local farms Green Chile Harvest Fest Sept. 7th – 8th A weekend full of chile-themed food and party events!

Learn more at:

133 ROMERO STREET SANTA FE NM iN ThE RAilyARd bEhiNd REi MONdAy-SATuRdAy 10-6 & SuNdAy 11-5 505-988-3709 www.ARkbOOkS.cOM Celebrating 31 Years 80

B i env eni d os 201 3 In the Railyard • 1607 Paseo de Peralta • (505) 983-4098 WIC and EBT accepted




1/c5 owgirl y



“Santa Fe’s treasure!”

345 W. Manhattan | Santa Fe, NM | (505) 984-1256 Across from the Train Station. Open Every Day |

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico








Le Bon


luggage • bags • accessories 328 S. Guadalupe, Santa Fe • • 505.986.1260

Artisan apparel for nomads and romantics 328 S Guadalupe St • Santa Fe • 505.438.8198 SAN FRANCISCO • CHICAGO • BOSTON WASHINGTON DC • SANTA FE • KANSAS CITY 82

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Bobby’s Cosmetics Chico’s Cielo Le Bon Voyage Marc Howard Fine Jewelry Peruvian Connection Zia Diner Zuma Fine Gifts

Santa Fe’s Nationally Known Largest Retail/Resale Store At the Ranch | Encore Vintage & Designer | The Ranch Galler y | Baby Store | Hacienda


Santa Fe Potter y | Men, Women & Kids

At the corner of Guadalupe & Aztec 505.989.8886 “Like” us on Facebook at Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico




























lighting ⋅ lampshades ⋅ home décor

southwest n ra t. F




custom designer

14 5 15


16 12 e Th ard a ily laz Ra rk & P

1. ACC 2. Casa Nova 3. Cowgirl BBQ 4. Double Take 5. Kowboyz 6. Lannan Foundation 7. Le Bon Voyage 8. Made in the Shade 9. Marc Howard 10. Matt Kuhn Collection

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To Cordova Road see page 30

11. Peruvian Connection Co 12. Santa Fe Artists’ Market 13. Santa Fe Farmers’ Market 14. Santa Fe Railyard Community Corporation 15. Sissel’s Fine Indian Jewelry 16. Site Santa Fe 17. The Ark Bookstore 18. Zoe and Guido’s Pet Boutique

art • antiques • restaurants • shops B i env eni d os 201 3



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phone 983⋅1500



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the design center ⋅ 418 cerrillos road ⋅ santa fe



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in s p ir e d d e s ig n fo r your home.

mon thru sat 10:30 - 5

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Cam. de la Fa

ma de in the shade

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418 Cerrillos Rd. - Santa Fe - 982.8191 WWW.MATTKUHNCOLLECTION.COM

8 10


see page 60


Santa Fe Depot


Market St.


7 9 11

Sanbusco Market Center





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Tableware • Bedding • Furniture • Accessories • Textiles • Fine Art • Jewelry 530 South Guadalupe Rd. • Santa Fe, NM • 505 983 8558 • Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

182 East Gore Creek Drive Vail Village, CO 81657 970.476.0255 85

AbiquiÚ THREE FOR THE ROAD Day trips within an hour’s drive of Santa Fe stories by julie ann grimm photos by gene peach


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About 50 miles from Santa Fe; take U.S. 84/285 north, then stay on U.S. 84 when it splits WHY GO: Few summer day trips from Santa Fe can compare to a refreshing plunge in the Abiquiú Reservoir on the Río Grande, about 10 miles north of the village of Abiquiú. This man-made lake is cool even in sweltering July, and when you’re not in the water, you can bake in the sun on boulders that line its edge. A family swimming area and boat launch are easy to get to, and the more adventurous can hike around the lake’s perimeter to find a more secluded spot. ALSO OF NOTE: Another 15-minute drive past the lake is the Ghost Ranch retreat and conference center. Known to many in the region as a jumpingoff point for hikes, the red-cliffed ranch is where cattle rustlers hid cows in a box canyon and where painter Georgia O’Keeffe viewed striped mesas and envisioned ladders to the moonlit heavens. Many visitors stay for a week to participate in workshops and study groups at the ranch, which is owned by the Presbyterian church and kept afloat

low-cost museums, one that showcases the area’s significant dinosaur finds and an anthropology collection that gives a quick overview of Puebloan cultures in the region. The Ruth Hall Museum of Paleontology includes a 1947 telegram from a researcher with the American Museum of Natural History who wrote home to New York City that he and his colleagues “have struck rich quarry” and “need extra help.” What they found were remains of more than 100 dinosaurs estimated to be 220 million years old. No trip to Abiquiú is complete without a stop at Bode’s General Store, which offers camping supplies, produce, gifts, a killer green-chile cheeseburger and floppy sunhats and sunscreen that will come in handy at the lake. As the saying around here goes, “If they don’t have it at Bode’s, you probably don’t need it.” FOR MORE INFORMATION: About the Abiquiú Chamber Music Festival, visit or call 505-685-0076; for the Ghost Ranch conference and retreat center, log onto or call 505-685-4333. You’ll find Bode’s General Store and Café at or 505-685-4422.

largely by volunteer workers. The facility also offers private overnight lodging for shorter visits; costs range from $46 to $111 per night, with extra charge for meals at the ranch cafeteria. Rooms come with inspiring views — the same scenes that invited O’Keeffe to create landscape and abstract paintings and to call New Mexico home. On Tuesdays, and Thursday through Saturday, ranch staff offer guided tours of the scenes of some of her most famous works for $25. While the home she lived in on the ranch is not open to the public, her house and studio in the village of Abiquiú are open for limited tours that cost $35 Tuesday through Friday and $45 on Saturdays from June to October. (Tours must be booked in advance. To reserve online, visit or call 505-685-4539.) The small town boasts an annual summer chamber music festival held in the modern home of a local resident. Guests sit on balconies that overlook the Chama River. This year’s program is heavy on stringed instruments and includes a night of opera singing. Back at the ranch, don’t miss the two small, Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


DESTINATION: Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument at Cochiti Pueblo 40 miles southwest of Santa Fe; go south on Interstate 25 to Exit 259, then follow N.M. 22 to the signs WHY GO: Stretch your legs and treat your senses with a moderate hike through the canyon at Tent Rocks for a simple day trip any time of year. This remarkable landscape is on the border of one of the lesser-visited Native American Pueblo territories in New Mexico. True to its moniker, the national monument is a great place to get an up-close look at triangular, tent-shaped rock formations with distinct layers of volcanic sediment. Next to their severe angles are gentle sloping scallops worn by wind and water. Amuse yourselves by thinking up your own names for the sculptures from nature. One perched high against the horizon has an impossible-looking bulbous top fixed on a thin stalk. This tower capped by a boulder — one of numerous hoodoos in the park — could be Atlas and the Earth, or my favorite name, “Lollipop Rock.” Geologists say the cone shapes are left over from eruptions in the Jémez volcanic field 6 million to 7 million years ago. Pumice, ash and tuff give the “white cliffs” of Kasha-Katuwe their name in the traditional Keresan language, according to literature from the Bureau of Land Management. The federally managed recreation area features two well-developed trails that can be combined for a moderate half-day walk with a picnic lunch. A gravel parking area has primitive toilets and sheltered tables. If you want a feel for the place but don’t want to take much time, try the easier of the two: The Cave Loop Trail is only 1.2 miles long and still offers vistas of the tent rocks on the horizon. To really get inside and see the formations from all the angles, take the winding 1.5 mile one-way Canyon Trail. It moves through narrow passages, inviting you to crane your neck upward for a full view. Then there’s a steep climb, carrying hikers up 650 feet and above the light-colored “tent rocks” to see the contrasting dark slopes of the Jémez Mountains behind them. A few sections close to the top of the mesa require a bit of a scramble, though trail planners have added some stairs. From the top, it’s a rewarding “Queen of the World” moment; even on a stormy day you can take in a 360-degree view filled out by the Sangre de Cristo and Sandia mountains. CAUTION: Flash flooding is common in the canyon, so take the warning signs seriously and make your way out at the first sign of rain. What’s great about the gated access to the monument is that employees who greet you are up-to-date about conditions there. No dogs are allowed at the monument. ALSO OF NOTE: Nearby attractions include boating, fishing or swimming at Cochiti Reservoir, a dammed part of the Río Grande. The town of Cochiti Lake, about seven miles from the monument, has a public golf course with a restaurant. FOR MORE INFORMATION: Visit recreation/albuquerque/kasha_katuwe.htm or call 505-761-8700. 88

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50 miles north of Santa Fe; take U.S. 84/285 north and stay on U.S. 285 outside Hernandez WHY GO: The main attraction in this tiny village is the natural piping hot water of the Ojo Caliente Mineral Resort & Spa. The spa has the all the modern conveniences you expect. But beyond its locker rooms and showers, robes and clean towels, dry sauna, steam room and mud pool, the ancient watering hole feels rooted to the Earth’s old core. Archaeological evidence suggests Ojo Caliente has been a resting place for humans for centuries — and the springs’ mineral content (iron, arsenic and lithia) is said to have healing properties for digestion and arthritis. Visitors — who are encouraged to speak only in a whisper — may move between 11 distinct pools while enjoying the vistas of red cliffs and blue sky. At night, the stars provide their show and soft lights highlight the cliffside. One pool is large enough to swim and float in, and it’s the only place where children 13 and under may soak. (Fourteen-year-olds can enter all other pools.) Top-rate private spa treatments are offered in intimate rooms. Whether you decide to pay the $18 weekday or $28 weekend entrance fee to soak in the springs, two hiking trails that lead to public lands are accessible from the parking lot. A short ascent to the mesa south of the spa reveals the ruins of Posi Pueblo, a Tewa Indian village last inhabited about 500 years ago. To the untrained

eye, these lumps of earth against the background of far-off mountains don’t look like the footprint shown in archaeological drawings. A closer look reveals so many painted pottery sherds on the ground that, in places, you are hard pressed to step without crushing them. The one-mile round-trip walk is unquestionably worth it. ALSO OF NOTE: You’ll find local goods and gifts (such as art, jewelry, skin-care products) at the well-stocked El Mercado at the spa. The only other store in the town of Ojo Caliente is Natural Wear. In addition to women’s clothing and jewelry, Leza Wimett has sold antique wool rugs and quilts, furniture, art and dishes at the boutique for 20 years. The restaurant at the spa has a sophisticated full menu with beer and wine, including some of the best Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

fish tacos in Northern New Mexico, served with a jicama peanut slaw. Town has a pizza joint and a pair of Mexican restaurants. Overnight accommodations at the spa are diverse. Camping and RV spaces on the spa’s 1,100-acre property are the most affordable, followed by rooms in the 1916 hotel, which start at $139. For extra luxury and special occasions, the spa lodging suites include a large private outdoor tub open for longer hours than the rest of the pools, exclusively for the use of guests of those rooms. Cliffside suites, which top out at $349 on a weekend night, include a private outdoor tub. FOR MORE INFORMATION: or 505-583-2233 — Julie Ann Grimm 89

Forgotten casualties

Los Alamos Homestead Tour honors landowners displaced by Manhattan Project By Arin McKenna

As you drive toward Los Alamos on N.M. 502, the rugged beauty of the Pajarito Plateau looms in the distance. A closer view reveals deep canyons carving the plateau into mesas. The steep climb up one of these canyons to the “Atomic City” raises questions about how anyone could have reached the plateau without modern technology. Yet roads were built by pick and shovel to isolated homesteads on the plateau. When President Abraham Lincoln signed the 1862 Homestead Act, which offered up to 160 acres of government land to those who lived on it, farmed it and improved it for five years, 36 families challenged the forbidding terrain to claim their patent of ownership. Last year, Los Alamos County initiated the Los Alamos Homestead Tour to honor those intrepid souls. New Mexican homesteaders had higher success rates than many who settled elsewhere in the country. Most Pajarito Plateau homesteaders were Hispanos, many of them descendents of Spanish colonists who had practiced subsistence farming in the region since the early 1600s. Some lived on the plateau year round, while many kept winter homes in the Río Grande Valley. Hewing roads through steep canyons was not the only challenge the homesteaders faced. They had to wait for snowmelt in the Río Grande to recede before they could drive their wagons and livestock across the swollen river and travel up to their land. Keeping those roads open was also a constant battle. Irene Padilla, who is descended from homesteaders on both sides of her family, remembers her father taking her up to the plateau on horseback. She said they called the road la cuesta de la culebra, which she loosely translates as “the snake path.” Dan Quintana remembers making the trip in a covered wagon. Quintana’s grandfather, Pedro Gomez y Gonzales, filed for 120 acres in 1893 on what is now the Los Alamos Golf Course. Quintana’s mother inherited the site with his uncle, Elfego Gomez. The homesteaders raised beans, corn, squash and a variety of other crops and also grazed sheep and cattle on the plateau. Getting produce to market from such a remote location was a challenge in itself. “They would go on wagons and take it all the way to Santa Fe, to Tesuque, and that’s how they would make their money, selling all their goods,” said Shirley Roybal, whose 90

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grandparents, Norberto and Sophia Roybal, farmed 125 acres on Barranca Mesa. “He’d be gone for like a week, and he would take his grandsons. And in those days you could sleep under the wagon, just make a camp and sleep.”

‘Good of the nation’ Although the work was hard, the homesteaders considered themselves well off. All that changed when the United States government decided to claim the Pajarito Plateau for the Manhattan Project, which developed the atomic bombs dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki during World War II. The legislation that allowed the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers to seize land specified that those being misplaced should receive adequate notice and just compensation. Most received neither. “My mother remembers very clearly when they came. It was wintertime, because they used to spend the summers up there, then they’d come back to the valley in the winter,” Roybal said. Her grandparents spoke no English, so her mother had to translate and serve as witness for her father’s “X” signature. The Roybals had two sons serving in the military and felt obligated to comply when men dressed in uniform turned up at their door. “It was for the good of the nation. I think they were willing [to move], but they didn’t understand the impact,” Shirley’s husband, Lenny, said. “A lot of [the homesteaders] were very proud, hardworking people [who] were turned into wards of the state, and their pride and dignity was destroyed.” The government paid the homesteaders $7 to $15 an acre. Some received two weeks’ notice to vacate, others as little as 24 hours. For some homesteaders, the first indication that they must vacate their property came when soldiers arrived at their door. (Contrast that to the Los Alamos Ranch School, on land also originally settled by homesteaders, which received two months’ notice and $225 an acre.) Roybal’s grandparents were left destitute. They eventually had to sell their winter home, move in with their children and go on welfare. Her uncles expected to farm the homestead after the war but instead had to move to California to find work. “They died paupers, really. It’s just very, very sad,” Roybal said. “There were three or four families that suffered … because when they took their land they gave them one day to move everything off,” said Judy Espinosa, president of the Pajarito Plateau Homesteaders Association. “And there weren’t

regular roads. They had to move as much as they could with their horse and buggies to Española and to Santa Fe, and when they got back to get the rest, they couldn’t get in, because it was already fenced. [Government agents] had corralled all the animals into a fenced area and killed them.” Even those given more notice were traumatized by the strong-arm tactics. “When the government came in, they came in full force,” said Jorje A. Sanchez Martinez. “They put gates on the Los Alamos highway, going up the hill. These people stood out there with machine guns. It really was a frightening sight for innocent people that didn’t know what was really going on, because nobody was told what they were doing.” Many of the Hispanic homesteaders expected their land to be returned to them after the war, but the property was used to construct the successor to the Manhattan Project — Los Alamos National Laboratory, now celebrating its 70th anniversary. When the Department of Energy began transferring land to Los Alamos County in the mid-1990s, the few remaining homesteaders and their descendents formed the Pajarito Plateau Homesteaders Association to try to reclaim either their land or fair compensation. In 2006, after a 10-year battle, New Mexico Sens. Jeff Bingaman and Pete Domenici included $10 million in an appropriations bill to reach a settlement with the homesteaders. By that time none of the original homesteaders were alive. After paying the lawyers $2 million, covering the fee for a special master to determine each

claimant’s entitlement and paying taxes on the remaining amount, the homesteaders’ heirs had little left.

Overdue honor Last year — on the 150th anniversary of the Homestead Act — some of the stories and struggles of the Pajarito Plateau homesteaders were memorialized in a self-guided tour developed by Los Alamos County Fuller Lodge Historic Districts Advisory Board in conjunction with the Los Alamos Historical Society and the Los Alamos County Parks Department. Despite the difficult history, a large number of homesteader family members turned out for the Los Alamos Homestead Tour ribbon-cutting ceremony in May 2012. They were clearly moved to see their families honored by Los Alamos County. “No area is made up of just one people. There are all types of stories,” said Joe Gutierrez, founder and former president of the Pajarito Plateau Homesteaders Association. Gutierrez served as liaison between the advisory board and the homesteaders’ descendents in developing the tour material. “What I saw when I was working with the homesteaders is that there were many books that talk about this area, and they seem to skip from the prehistoric era to the modern technical area in Los Alamos, right over the homestead era,” Gutierrez said. “So for me, this fills a very important gap, and it’s good that now we have more of the story — and it will be a permanent part of the story of Los Alamos.”

Details The Los Alamos Homestead Tour begins at the Los Alamos Historical Museum, which is a gem in itself. The museum covers a broader range of history and has a more personal touch than the Bradbury Science Museum, including a wonderful portrayal of what life was like in Los Alamos during the Manhattan Project. The only remaining homesteader dwelling, the Romero cabin, has been relocated next to the museum and conscientiously restored. The driving tour consists of 17 markers at seven different sites. Each marker includes quick response, or QR, codes for smart-phone users to access additional information. A brochure may be downloaded at or picked up at the Los Alamos Historical Museum, 1050 Bathtub Row. Call 505-662-6272 for more information. More information about the homesteaders is available in Homesteading on the Pajarito Plateau, 1887-1942, by Judith Machen, Ellen McGehee and Dorothy Hoard, and Historic Roads of Los Alamos, by Dorothy Hoard. Hoard determined the location of the original homesteads using patents and topographical maps and gained a firsthand appreciation for the homesteaders’ challenges and isolation. She also researched the history to get the sites listed on the National Register of Historic Places. McGehee is consulting archaeologist for Los Alamos National Laboratory. Her article, “A History of the Romero Cabin,” is available at the Los Alamos Historical Society website,

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


A Prayer for Santa Fe by Rev. Talitha Arnold

San Ildefonso seeks land, not compensation

O Dios, El Senor, Great Spirit, El Shaddai, Adonai, Creator God, creating still. By whatever name we know you, hear our prayers this day. We thank you for the courage and the Santa Fe, the Holy Faith, of those who founded this city 400 years ago. And we thank you, too, for the native peoples who prayed in this land for centuries before and for all who have come in the centuries since. For all, be they native or newcomer, whose prayers continue to bless this city, we thank you this day. With our prayers of thanks, hear too our prayers for guidance and wisdom. Help us to learn from this good land and the beauty of creation all around us. In this land of endless sky, teach us the boundlessness of your beauty and love. In this land of little rain, teach us to share and to bless what you have given us. In this land of brilliant sunrise and golden sunset, teach us to use each day to bless the lives of others. In this land of many cultures and colors, give us your infinite imagination and teach us to respect and value all your children. O God, our help in ages past, be our hope and the hope of this City of Santa Fe in all the years to come. Help us all to build on the foundation of faith, hope, and love that others have laid here, so that all your people in this city might do justice, love mercy and walk humbly with You, now and always. Amen.

The homesteaders of the late 19th century were not the first people to occupy the Pajarito Plateau. Ruins of Ancestral Puebloan villages scattered throughout the landscape attest to a thriving pre-European population. By the time the Spanish arrived in 1598, descendants of the Puebloans had moved to more abundant water sources near the Río Grande, but they continued to use their ancestral lands for hunting, ceremonies and other purposes. “The whole area was aboriginal land — not just us, but the surrounding pueblos as well — because of the ancestral and cultural sites that were up there,” said Elmer Torres, tribal member and former governor of San Ildefonso Pueblo. When New Mexico became a U.S. territory, the United States government deemed the land to be unoccupied and laid claim to it. According to Torres, Pueblo leaders were undisturbed when the government began deeding that land to homesteaders. “The elders knew the homesteaders were up there, and they didn’t really mind that at all, because the pueblo used that land up in there, but there were no homes,” Torres said. “There was an abundance of elk, an abundance of deer, turkey. They would spend several days just going up there to hunt and then come back home.” That was not the case when the United States government claimed the Pajarito Plateau for the Manhattan Project. Pueblo members went up to hunt and were met with armed guards. “I’m not even sure if they notified the pueblo,” Torres said of the government officials. “Eventually they knew what was happening, but they really didn’t know the details.” According to Torres, the pueblo had more than 2,000 ancestral sites behind those fences, many of them sacred. “A lot of them, they just bulldozed the whole thing, or they saw a structure like a Pueblo ruin and they tore the walls down,” he said. “And some of the stones, which were carved out so nice and square, they used for fireplaces.” After the “secret city” began to open its doors, San Ildefonso and other pueblos negotiated with the Department of Energy to visit their ancestral sites. According to Torres, San Ildefonso was supposed to be compensated for the lands it lost during the Manhattan Project with a tract of land spreading from White Rock to south of Bandelier National Monument. It received a fraction of that. “A lot of the folks and the tribal leaders at the pueblo were not very well educated. It was a matter of trusting the government to do some of the work for them as far as the day-to-day, government-to-government operations for the pueblo... and it turned out it wasn’t in the best interest of the tribe,” Torres said. When he was serving as governor, Torres discovered that the Department

We invite you to worship with us while visiting Santa Fe. Sunday Summer Services: 8:30am Outdoor Communion; 10am inside.

of Energy planned to transfer lands to Los Alamos County. “I approached DOE and said, ‘Shouldn’t the pueblo be asked first if that parcel should come to us?’ Because originally that land belonged to the pueblo, not to the county,” Torres said. Ildefonso Pueblo has since received several thousand acres in land transfers from the DOE. The pueblos now have a government-to-government relationship with Los


Rev. Talitha Arnold, Sr. Minister; Rev. Brandon Johnson, Assoc. Minister Jacquelyn Helin, Pianist and Music Director; Karen Marrolli, Choral Director; Andrea Hamilton, Children’s Director

1804 Arroyo Chamiso (at St. Michael’s Drive) 988-3295

Alamos National Laboratory. Torres himself worked for the lab as Pueblo liaison for a number of years. “I always tell the pueblos, you have every right to just go up there and visit the laboratory, meet with the director and find out what’s really going on. Get a full overview of what they’re doing, their operations, what their budget is, how that impacts the environment and even the folks that we have,” Torres said. That’s a testament to how things have changed in the last 70 years.

“Love God. Love Neighbor. Love Creation.”  Wheelchair accessible

— Arin McKenna Find us on Facebook.


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SANTAFE NEWMEXICAN.COM Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


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NEW MEXICO HISTORY MUSEUM Cowboys Real and Imagined NEW MEXICO MUSEUM OF ART It’s About Time: 14,000 Years of Art in New Mexico MUSEUM OF INDIAN ARTS & CULTURE What’s New in New: Recent Acquisitions MUSEUM OF INTERNATIONAL FOLK ART New World Cuisine: The Histories of Chocolate, Mate Y Más

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


Highly cultivated craft By James Selby To make wine is a deed of passion. To make it in a desert requires scrappy, chimerical individualism. Grapevines are resilient, perverse plants that grow in some inhospitable terroirs. Where other plants would perish, vines send roots deep into the earth for nutrients and minerals to nourish their fruit. The very struggle to survive produces some of the world’s most complex wines. That’s something New Mexico wine makers have known for centuries. After all, our state is the oldest — if not the most famous — wine-producing region in the country. Grapes were cultivated in New Mexico by monks in the early 17th century, 50 years before vines were planted in California. Even though New Mexico didn’t become the more prominent of the two fledgling regions, nearly 50 wineries do business here, and many can be visited — and their products sampled — on a day trip through Northern New Mexico.

Hill country

Piatto (July 20 and September 14) and James Campbell Caruso of La Boca (August 17). They even hold walk-on bocce ball tournaments. The vineyards are owned by Black Mesa Winery (the next stop up the road), but the operation here is hospitably managed and owned by Eileen and Richard Reinders, who are especially proud of the estate-grown Estrella del Norte Pinot Noir.

Karen Waters

Driving north from Santa Fe on U.S. 84/285, you’ll find the main retail shop for Don Quixote Distillery and Winery just past the Los Alamos exit, housed in a once infamous roadhouse. Along with tastings, classes and private functions, proprietors Ron and Olha Dolin host ballroom dancing on Friday nights and, on the third Saturday of the month, “An Evening Under the Stars” with live music, wine and snacks on the shop’s fire-lit courtyard. (Tastings and events are also held at the business’s White Rock location.) Along with table wines, they make an assortment of fortified or Port-styled wines and are the only domestic operation to produce their own wine and brandy. Around the corner, on Nambé Road, are Estrella del Norte and Santa Fe Vineyards, two labels represented in the same complex of tasting and gift rooms. With an arbor-shaded patio, the facility hosts a calendar full of weddings, classes conducted by the Santa Fe Cooking School and a series of vineyard dinners with Santa Fe guest chefs Amaury Torres of Babaluu’s Cocina Cubana (June 8), Honey and Matt Yohalem of Il

Black Mesa

New Mexico’s wineries have deep roots, long tradition 96

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Río-side richness Half a dozen miles farther, N.M. 68 is the artery to additional Northern New Mexico wineries. A sinuous route conforming to the Río Grande, it passes through a treeless red-earth landscape of borderless towns, resort casinos, mesas, salvage yards, galleries and mountain vistas. You’ll find shaded relief at Black Mesa Winery, owned by Lynda and Jerry Burd, in the foothill settlement of Velarde. Enter their cheerful adobe compound and browse the gift shop’s large selection of wine accessories, greeting cards, rhinestone T-shirts, and feline-themed items. (There are 10 winery cats but just one dog.) With an abundant number of wines for sale and sample, Black Mesa’s most popular is Black Beauty, a rich red wine flavored with chocolate. The winery hosts live music, cheese and wine pairings and classes in wine education and painting. Continue on the riverside highway to the junction of N.M. 75. Vivác Winery’s kempt tasting room is nestled in a vineyard at the foot of a magnificent sandstone mountain, offering wine accoutrements, art, jewelry and house-made artisan cheeses and chocolates. Here you can learn the story of local brothers Jesse and Chris and two lovely ladies, Michele and Liliana, who came to be known as the “Padberg Bunch” and the owners of Vivác — Spanish for high-altitude refuge. Their vines produce refined, classic varietals and blends, including a single vineyard Syrah reminiscent of the Northern Rhone Valley in France, and Refosco, an obscure Italian variety that makes a plumy, baroque wine. The first Saturday of the month you can hang out with the owners at Happy Hour (4-7 p.m.), enjoying music and wine-based specialty drinks, or take the plunge for their luxury Gourmet Wine & Chef-Catered Raft Trip down the Río Grande, featuring Ky Quintanilla of Lambert’s restaurant in Taos (May 25- 27). Coil east with the acequia along N.M. 75 through the little town of

Dixon and the insular scenery of family farms and artists’ studios to La Chiripada Winery (the name means “a stroke of luck”), where another two brothers, Pat and Mike Johnson, planted vines in 1977 and have harvested 32 vintages. There’s a flustered charm about the tasting room. They don’t host weddings or bluegrass bands, but they are skilled vintners whose off-dry, lush Riesling is a purist’s treat, and soft, jam-like Río Embudo Red from the Alsatian grape Léon Millot will temper local chile dishes.

Four Corners field trip On a different road trip to the northwest corner of the state, plan to picnic, taste or tie the knot — of either the fly-fishing or matrimonial kind — in the rustic settings of the Arnold family’s Wines of the San Juan in Turley, New Mexico, 30 miles east of Farmington. Listen to music in their courtyard on summer Sundays or take part in the Ducks for Bucks Carnival (June 1) and buy a rubber duck to race down the creek, with proceeds going to the National Niemann-Pick Disease Foundation. Haven’t you always wanted to stomp grapes? You can at Wines of the San Juan’s annual harvest and grape stomp (September 28-29). They produce a serious Cabernet Sauvignon and a juicy Gewurztraminer with the not-so-serious name Girls Are Meaner.

Meet at the meadery Mead is older than Beowulf, its history predating the cultivation of soil. Santa Fe’s Falcon Meadery and Winery makes up-to-date versions of this honey-based wine from dry to sweet, often co-fermented with local fruits. Taste and tour at the meadery, or attend the Santa Fe Renaissance Fair at El Rancho de las Golondrinas (September 21-22) and sample its selections amid Arthurian knights and damsels.

Details Vivác

Falcon Meadery and Winery

Black Mesa

Estrella del Norte and Santa Fe Vineyards

Jesse and Michele Padberg and Chris and Liliana Padberg, owners 2075 N.M. 68 Embudo NM 87531 505-579-4441 Tasting room hours: Monday-Saturday 10 a.m.-6 p.m.; Sunday noon-6 p.m. (There is also a tasting room at the Santa Fe Farmers Market.)

Jerry and Lynda Burd, owners 1502 N.M. 68, Mile Marker 15 P.O. Box 308 Velarde, NM 87582 800-852-6372, 505-852-2820 Tasting room summer hours: Monday-Saturday 11 a.m.-7 p.m.; Sunday noon-6 p.m.

La Chiripada Winery & Vineyard Michael & Patrick Johnson, owners N.M. 75 P.O. Box 191 Dixon, NM 87527 Phone: 505-579-4437 or 800-528-7801 Tasting room hours: Monday-Saturday 10 a.m.-6 p.m.; Sunday noon-6 p.m.

Darragh Nagle, founder 1572 Center Drive, Suite E Santa Fe NM 87507 P.O. Box 5947, Santa Fe NM 87502 505-819-8323 Free tastings and tours are available by appointment.

Richard and Eileen Reinders, owners 106 N. Shining Sun Road Santa Fe, New Mexico 87506 505-455-2826 Tasting room summer hours: Monday-Saturday 10 a.m.-6 p.m.; Sunday noon-6 p.m.

Wines of the San Juan

David and Marcia Arnold and family, owners 233 N.M. 511 Blanco, NM 87412 505-632-0879 Summer hours are daily, 10 a.m.-6 p.m., closed on Tuesdays, Sundays noon-6 p.m.

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico



Plein air fare

Atmosphere is everything for city’s patio diners Story by Beth Surdut Photos by Kerry Sherck

La Casa Sena

The Shed 98

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Off-street patios are quiet havens where Santa Fe’s delicious weather and food mingle in lovely settings overseen by talented chefs. “Fine dining” has morphed into “elegant-casual,” according to the chefs who concoct classic New Mexican dishes and selections to please the range of omnivores to I-only-eat-that-avores. Just as chefs use the same ingredients to produce distinctively different dishes, each of these establishments offers its own location, menu and extended hours. Dinner by candlelight or brunch in the sun is divine, but these restaurants can serve a late night dessert under the Milky Way or early morning breakfast while much of the city still dreams.

La Casa Sena

perfumed embrace of a wisteria vine. Amid overhanging trees, moveable umbrellas shade tables, and a new tented bar sits to one side. New Mexico’s sensational sky is always visible. Chef Patrick Gharrity, trained as a printmaker, layers a palette of flavors with delicate precision that reflects the qualities and colors of the Gustav Baumann prints hanging in a dining room overlooking the patio. Like the artwork, chef Gharrity’s creations are appealing, familiar and mysterious. Textures are soft on the mouth — flavorful striped bass poses on a plate of orange mango-apple-parsnip purée highlighted by purple radicchio and dark leafy greens. Robust seared

125 E. Palace Ave. 505-988-9232 Parking lot in back on Nussbaum Street Serves: Lunch, midday fare, early and late dinner

In the dappled light of La Casa Sena’s courtyard garden, the chef and the gardener contemplate a birthday party for a magnificent cottonwood’s 90th year. Surrounded by one of the oldest houses in the city, oak, juniper and fir trees grow high above sweetly scented grapes, honeysuckle, pink peonies, purple lilac and yellow forsythia. A pergola not far from the central fountain succumbs to the Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


La Posada de Santa Fe Resort & Spa

330 E. Palace Ave. 505-954-9670 Valet parking Serves: Breakfast, lunch, dinner, late night bar menu

Santacafé scallops, accompanied by house-made purple potato chips, carry a subtle riff on Moroccan harissa sauce. Ingredients make unexpected appearances and disappearances in salmon dusted with a mocha crust and garnished with a yellow mole containing neither chile nor chocolate. Green-chile cheeseburgers are a competitive sport in New Mexico, and a version with blue cheese shares a menu here with a summer salad dressed in a straightforward grapeseed oil vinaigrette. Diners can graze on a fine-dining menagerie of rabbit, venison, antelope, quail and foie gras. Assorted shellfish is complemented by the chef ’s skilled handling of sauces. Vegetarian tamales take a gourmet turn with poblano-

scented masa with exotic mushrooms, garlic-sage butter and crispy shallots. Dessert chef Claudette Deaguero takes fruit center stage, each a diva. Warm pears, cool peaches, tart lemons, sweet raspberries or cidered apples team with creams, cheeses, nuts and herbs. The decadent chocolate pudding cake is garnished with pistachio whipped cream and blackberries. The restaurant is open continuously from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily, beginning with lunch. An early dinner menu begins at 3 p.m., with an additional dinner menu offered between 5 and 10 p.m. Live music on weekends complements the birdsong. 1 00

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This elegant mansion and grounds were built for the prominent Staab merchant family in 1882. The enclave later became a summer art colony dotted with casitas and is now a groomed 6-acre garden of sensory delights. Open and light, bursting with formal plantings, the patio looks out on the unusual desert oasis of a green lawn. “I fell in love with La Posada and the grounds,” chef Carmen Rodriguez said with enthusiasm. “We still have the original fruit trees planted by Julia Staab and Bishop Lamy — apricot, Asian plum, walnut, crabapple and pear — and I use them all!” The property is steeped in history — socialite Julia Staab’s ghost is said to roam here — but the chef, who has been cooking for 30 years, is always looking forward. “What I do here is global Latin cuisine with a Santa Fe twist,” he explained. Combining intangible and tangible ingredients from Austria to Thailand, the warm vegan soups are not to be missed, even when served on a summer’s day. “My grandmother told me that hot soup warms the body to the ambient temperature, so you actually feel cooler,” Rodriguez said. Fresh ginger and Korean chili paste balance the light sweetness of Thai coconut horchata soup. Potatoes and celery root become a rich puree that exudes a tempting perfume. Gluten-free options are always available, as are at least two vegetarian and vegan dishes, such as enchiladas with blue cornmeal-encrusted eggplant topped with shredded tofu, a chipotle glaze and salsa. “My smoked portabellas taste like bacon!” the chef crowed as he recounted a guest’s praise. Desserts include satisfying cranberry bread pudding, traditional Tres Leches cake, and chocolate mousse with cinnamon points. Chosen in 2012 as Chef of the Year by the New Mexico Restaurant Association, Rodriguez fosters young chefs and actively participates in local food banks and programs for at-risk youth. “I have a very young kitchen [staff ], and I use food as healing,” he said. Spring through autumn, lunch is served from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and dinner from 5:30 to 10 p.m. A bar menu is available all day from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Entertainment is offered most evenings.

Some favorite patios Restaurant Martin

526 Galisteo St., 505-820-0919; lunch Tuesday through Friday, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; dinner Tuesday through Sunday, 5:30-10 p.m.; Sunday brunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.

Rio Chama Steakhouse

414 Old Santa Fe Trail, 505-955-0765; daily from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.


231 Washington Ave., 505-984-1788; lunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., daily; dinner 5:30-9 p.m. nightly, to 10 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. Sunday brunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; bar opens at 4 p.m. with appetizers

The Palace Restaurant and Saloon

142 W. Palace Ave., 505-428-0690; TuesdaySaturday, 11:30 a.m. to closing; Sunday, 4 p.m. to close

The Pink Adobe

406 Old Santa Fe Trail, 505-983-7712; dinner only, 5:30 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday

The Shed

113 E. Palace Ave., 505-982-9030; lunch MondaySaturday, 11 a.m.- 2:30 p.m., dinner 5:30-9 p.m.

La Posada de Santa Fe Resort & Spa courtesy

Luminaria at the Inn and Spa at Loretto

211 Old Santa Fe Trail 505-988-5531 Valet parking Serves: Breakfast, lunch, dinner and late night

In this serene outdoor space next to the famous Loretto Chapel, edible nasturtiums and herbs cascade over tall ceramic containers, a fountain burbles and a fireplace promises warmth on a cool desert evening. An elegantly draped and covered dining area sparkles with chandeliers, and in view of a glowing orange trumpet vine, comfortable chairs at patio tables extend an invitation to linger. Chef Brett Sparman and dessert chef Andrea Clover serve up voluptuous comfort food with playful accents. Along with what is perhaps the best tortilla soup in town, warm lobster tacos meld Maine and New Mexico in perfect harmony. Hefty sweet shrimp sparked by salty chorizo nestle with toasted slices of bread in a warm red sauce. Sparman’s spice choices bear accents reminiscent of his childhood cooking marathons with his Hispanic aunts, and he draws inspiration from his staff from Ecuador, Guatemala, El Salvador, Belize and Mexico. From perennially popular blackened salmon to Wagyu beef from

Café Fina

624 Old Las Vegas Highway, 505-466-3806; Monday through Friday, 7 a.m.-3 p.m., Saturday and Sunday, 8 a.m.-3 p.m.

Madrid, New Mexico, the emphasis is on fresh and tasty, branded with the chef’s personal approach. “We do really good food really well,” Sparman said. Mae West’s assessment that “Too much of a good thing can be wonderful!” applies to chef Clover’s award-winning desserts. “If cheesecake and chocolate mousse had a baby, it would be The Loretto,” she said. Visually charming, the inn’s eponymous confection is a free-standing miniature adobe with a foundation of triple chocolate brownie topped with red-chile mousse and crowned with red wine-chocolate ganache. Moist crumbled graham crackers surround the base and drunken red grapes lounge close by. Less sweet, but no less addictive, pumpkinspiced waffles with candied pecans can be enjoyed in the early morning sun, and the breakfast burrito with bacon, eggs and potatoes is a best seller. Although the patio opens for breakfast at 7 a.m. and food is served until 10 p.m., the restaurant closes between 11 and 11:30 a.m. and 2 to 5 p.m. Cena Pronto, a three-course prix fixe dinner, is offered between 5 and 6:30 p.m. Join the Legacy Club online — sign-up.php — and enjoy a 20 percent discount. Live music appears at the discretion of the musician, and the local ravens entertain daily. Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

Harry’s Roadhouse

96 Old Las Vegas Highway, 505-989-4629; 7 a.m.-10 p.m. daily

La Choza

905 Alarid St., 505-982-0909; lunch daily, 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner daily, 5-9 p.m.

Midtown Bistro

901 W. San Mateo St., 505-820-3121; lunch and dinner, Tuesday through Saturday, Sunday brunch; call for summer hours 253596978078958

Mu Du Noodles

1494 Cerrillos Road, 505-983-1411; dinner only, 5:30-9 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday


709 Don Cubero Alley (near intersection of Cerrillos Road and Don Diego Avenue, 505-820-9205; lunch and dinner, 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Monday through Saturday

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A secret garden no more Before stepping inside Northern New Mexico’s first public garden, set aside notions of azalea beds, endless lawns of emerald and koi ponds. The Santa Fe Botanical Garden at Museum Hill, opening July 21, seeks to inspire visitors to think anew what a water-conscious garden can be at 7,000 feet above sea level. Drawing from plants native to the Southwest, South Africa, New Zealand and the Middle East, landscape architect W. Gary Smith had a field day. The varieties selected all grow well under the same tricky conditions and look stunning together. “A garden must be true and authentic to its place,” said the botanical garden’s managing director Linda Milbourn. “There is no place like Santa Fe.” Like many botanical gardens, this one features a romantic bridge (red, no less) and plenty of opportunities to smell the roses and the fruit trees. Called the Orchard Gardens, this first phase sits on 1.69 acres of land leased from the New Mexico Department of Cultural Affairs and features 4,000 plants, from cactus to climbing roses. With ethnobotanical guide in hand — a spiral-bound book is under development — visitors can expect to spend about 45 minutes strolling along the path, gazing at the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and lingering on the historic 1913 Kearny’s Gap bridge. The bridge is the big red heart of Santa Fe Botanical Garden. A Warren pony truss bridge, it once was situated between Santa Fe and Las Vegas, N.M., on N.M. 283, then removed when the highway was widened. David and Mabel Bibb had it on their ranch in Las Vegas for years. Their children made it available to Santa Fe Botanical Garden. The free-span steel bridge was disassembled, brought up to code and painted red. Through careful selection of plants, permaculture techniques, xeriscaping and a drip irrigation system, the nonprofit group hopes to demonstrate that the Orchard Gardens can exist on one-half an acre-foot of water — about the amount two households use in a year — by its third year of operation. “A lot of people use the term ‘high desert,’” Milbourn said. But the correct name for Santa Fe’s native landscape is piñon-juniper savanna, she said. The plants that thrive here are similar to those that thrive in Denver, due to “the

finesse of two factors: latitude and elevation,” she said. The gardens are built to survive Santa Fe’s changeable, harsh conditions, and so are other structural elements. The archway at the entrance and the garden’s ramadas are fashioned out of steel with a rusty finish, chosen because steel endures Santa Fe’s intense sunshine better than wood — and because it looks fanstastic, added Milbourn. For the welcome ramada, local architect Beverley Spears arranged steel beams to resemble a stand of young trees; trumpet vines top it off and create shade. Nearby, a trickle of water gurgles down a bronze star medallion wall fountain. Just the beginning of a 25-year dream come true, the fruit trees, rose-andlavender walk, wild grass meadow and dry garden of succulents are embedded with rich stories. Every plant has been donated through the nonprofit’s Sowing the Seeds program.

Living memorials Barbara Goede — a founding member of the Legacy Society, a means to give to the garden through wills or estate plans — sponsored a dozen fruit trees — varieties of apple, cherry, peach, pear, apricot, and plum that are known for their peak production in Santa Fe. These new starts will be raised without pesticides and in ways that encourage pollination. “When the Spanish came in, the colonists came in, they were the ones that brought the fruit trees, they were the ones that brought the grapes,” Goede said. “The orchard is a living memorial to all of those settlers that came into this area and struggled to make a new home for themselves here.” Goede has her own special history with orchards. “The farm I grew up on was homesteaded by my great-great-grandfather, and homesteaders always planted orchards,” she said. By the time she came along, only a few trees planted by her German ancestors remained. Goede learned how to farm vegetables instead, and then went on to be a successful businesswoman in nearby Chicago. When her father died, leaving behind a 10-acre, badly neglected apple orchard, Goede was 44,

The 1913 Kearny’s Gap Bridge is the big red heart of Santa Fe Botanical Garden.

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By Diana Del Mauro

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single, and willing to make a change. Because she was allergic to pesticides, Goede ran Apple Acres in Barrington, Illinois, as an organic orchard. Those 13 years were “the best years of my life,” she said. The land spiked in value, so she sold it to a developer in 1988, moved to Santa Fe and set up a charitable foundation. By 1993, she was involved in Santa Fe Botanical Garden. Goede hopes that her new orchard — and the rest of the garden — will do something good for Santa Fe. She laments that newcomers “become dismayed because they feel there is no beauty in the plant material we have,” she said. When they design their gardens, they don’t take into account the altitude, the hot and dry days and the cool nights. (Chicago and Santa Fe have the same climate zone, for instance, but our alkaline soil, low humidity, drying winds and scarce water aren’t welcoming to Chicago plant life.) The Santa Fe Botanical Garden will help change their minds, she said. “I would think the garden would give them a picture of what is possible even though we have unfavorable weather conditions and unfavorable soil conditions.” Every plant in the initial garden is labeled (family, genus, species, region of origin), and the garden’s website features an extensive database with photographs and descriptions. The organization also offers hands-on workshops. More stories will be part of the planting process as Santa Fe Botanical Garden grows into four separate gardens over 13 acres. When complete, the site will include Orchard Gardens, Naturalistic Gardens, Courtyard Gardens, and 8 acres of biking and hiking trails.

A long, hard march Established in April 1987, the Santa Fe Botanical Garden nonprofit corporation was started not by gardeners but by 10 people who were passionate about environmental conservation, according to Milbourn. Several early visionaries taught environmental science at Santa Fe Community College.

With education its core mission, the group established programs around horticulture, water conservation, environmental stewardship and nature explorations for schoolchildren. While managing two preserves, the group never lost sight of creating a public garden in the city. Milbourn came aboard 10 years ago, when the organization had an urgent need to find a spot to plant its garden. Weary of being a commercial real-estate lender in the San Francisco Bay Area, Milbourn had decided on a midlife career change. She studied landscape architecture at the University of California, Berkeley, and moved to Santa Fe, contemplating her next move when the managing director post caught her eye. In 2003, the group asked the City of Santa Fe if it had any land to offer, and the city pointed out this property on Museum Hill that ran along the arroyo and backed up to the overflow parking lot, Milbourn said. “Everybody fell in love with it at first glance,” she said. State capital outlay money paid for design and development costs, which then prompted an outpouring of private contributions. “So the state deserves a tremendous amount of credit,” she said. Next, Milbourn found landscape architect W. Gary Smith, who lived in Austin, Texas, at the time but now lives in New York City. She introduced him to the board of directors. “He changed everything. He’s so creative and so fantastic to work with and a really good front guy selling the vision,” she said. “I know we’ll be friends the rest of our lives.” Public gardens that are founded by a few far-sighted benefactors rarely face the sort of hurdles that Santa Fe Botanical Garden did. “We didn’t start that way; we started as grass-roots,” Milbourn said. And these founders didn’t have deep pockets. Looking back, she said she’s amazed that this little nonprofit pulled off a $7.5 million garden. “It was an overly ambitious dream considering how little we were,” Milbourn said.

Grand opening of the Santa Fe Botanical Garden After 25 years of dreaming and planning, Santa Fe Botanical Garden presents a new public garden this summer on Museum Hill. What: The Orchard Gardens, the first of four planned gardens, and the historic Arroyo de los Piños Bridge open in Santa Fe Where: 715 Camino Lejo, across the street from the Museum of International Folk Art When: The grand opening begins with a gala reception for ticketholders at 6 p.m. July 19. The first full day at the garden (9 a.m.-5 p.m. July 20) is reserved for members. Memberships, starting at $35 per person, will be for sale at the gate. The grand opening for the public, with free admission, is 9 a.m.-5 p.m. July 21. Regular hours of operation are 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday. Information: 505-471-9103 or

More than a garden Santa Fe Botanical Garden managing director Linda Milbourn hopes the attention the new garden is getting will open more people’s eyes to the nonprofit’s other endeavors, in town and beyond. The organization offers gardening maintenance workshops, tours of Santa Fe’s private gardens and book discussions at the Terence S. Tarr Botanical and Horticultural Library. Outside the city limits, the nonprofit manages the 35-acre Leonora Curtin Wetland Preserve, a place to explore pond life and watch birds behind a blind. And 30 miles southwest of Santa Fe, amid gold rush mine shafts, the Ortiz Mountains Educational Preserve is a 1,350-acre hideout for bears, mountain lions and bats, with trails open to visitors attending docent-led events. For more information about these programs and locales, call 505-471-9103 or visit

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


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ttractionsvenues a RESTAURANTSspas heatermusic t shoppingMOVIES If IT’S IN SANTA fE, IT’S ON ExplORESANTAfE.cOM

You turn to us. 1 04

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Cottons, Batiks, Orientals, Southwest Fabrics, Silks, Classes & Sewing Supplies Open 7 Days Mon.-Sat.,Thurs. Thurs.10-7 10-7pm,pm, Open 7 Daysa aWeek: Week:10-5:30 10-5:30 Mon.-Sat., Sun.Sun. 1-5 1-5 pm pm We Are Here!

3018-A Cielo Court Santa Fe, NM 87507 505-473-3747

The Bestest Toys! The Mostest Games! The Confoundingest Puzzles! The Snugglyest Stuffed Animals! And No M.S.G.! 112 W. San Francisco Street

Exceptional Handmade Chocolates and Authentic Chocolate Elixirs from Santa Fe, NM w w w. k a k a w a c h o c o l a t e s . c o m 1050 E. Paseo de Peralta, Santa Fe NM 505-982-0388

Check us out on Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

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Music in the air Santa Fe’s summer season

Bach Brandenburg

Miro Quartet

By Craig Smith

When it comes to top-level music-making, it’s hard to beat Santa Fe’s summer season. From opera to choral music, chamber works to vocal recitals, there’s enough to go around and then some. The only real difficulty lies in finding the time and energy to attend everything that appeals to you. Here’s a look at what’s on tap this summer; check organizations’ websites for updates or more information. Ever since its first 1957 season, The Santa Fe Opera has maintained the standards of excellence set by founder John O. Crosby: first-rate singers, exquisite stage settings, superb orchestral playing and committed-to-quality administration and customer service. And whether the repertoire is tragic or comic, new or old, the company knows how to put on a good show in one of the most striking opera houses in the world. The 2013 season, running from June 28 through August 24, offers the kind of lineup SFO is known for — a mix of the established and the adventurous. Light-hearted comedy comes in Offenbach’s The Grand Duchess of Gerolstein, with the incandescent mezzo-soprano Susan Graham as the noble lady with a keen eye for handsome men. The classic masterwork The Marriage of Figaro marks the return of a Mozart opera, with Zachary Nelson in the title role; the young baritone from Maryland was a member of the company’s decades-old Apprentice Singers program in 2012. In terms of the unusual, Rossini’s fairly seldom performed La Donna del Lago (The Lady of the Lake) brings together two contemporary bel canto stars to project the composer’s vocal fireworks: mezzo-soprano Joyce Di Donato (also a former apprentice) and tenor Lawrence Brownlee. Verdi’s La Traviata

Abiquiú Chamber Music Festival June 9-Sept. 8 Purchase tickets online.

returns in the unusual and eclectic 2009 production — who can forget that array of multisized blocks filling the stage? — with soprano Brenda Rae as the wayward courtesan of the title. In keeping with its tradition of presenting world and American premieres, SFO is mounting American composer Theodore Morrison’s Oscar, with a libretto by Morrison and John Cox. Based on episodes in the life of the Irish poet, one-time prisoner and humorous iconoclast Oscar Wilde, this world-premiere stars counter-tenor David Daniels, for whom Morrison wrote the opera. Additional SFO events include a special performance at the Scottish Rite Center on August 4 by soprano Christine Brewer, accompanied by pianist Joseph Illick. The repertoire is Wagner’s Wesendonck Lieder and Britten’s Cabaret Songs, celebrating the 200th and 100th birthdays, respectively, of the composers. Illick will also perform transcriptions from Wagner operas by Franz Liszt. Given Brewer’s magnificent voice and rich musicianship, this is one not to be missed. And don’t forget a special Stravinsky Festival in the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi, slated for August 18; the repertoire includes the famed composer’s Mass, which he conducted here 50 years ago in the same building. The Brewer-Illick recital also forms part of The Santa Fe Concert Association’s summer “Festival of Song.” The other currently planned event is set for August 18, and features star tenor Michael Fabiano with Illick at the piano. Repertoire includes arias by Verdi, Puccini and Massenet, plus songs by Henri Duparc, Richard Strauss and F. Paolo Tosti — that last composer a huge favorite of the late Victorian and Edwardian era, though seldom-heard today. A third recital may be added; check the SFCA website for information.

Aspen Santa Fe Ballet

July 12-Aug. 31 Tickets Santa Fe, 505-988-1234

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Santa Fe Chamber Music Festival July 14-August 19 505-982-1890

Aspen Santa Fe Ballet

World premiers and old favorites Over in St. Francis Auditorium and at the Lensic Performing Arts Center, music will be in the air at the Santa Fe Chamber Music Festival — and it promises to waft unusual works as well as established favorites to patrons’ ears during the July 14 through August 19 performances. Among other highlights, pianist Garrick Ohlsson will be artist-in-residence; a special minifestival with the title “Years of Wonder” will highlight music of Gesualdo, Mozart and Schumann; and there will be a world premiere of Thierry Lancino’s String Quartet, plus a co-commission premiere of a piano quartet by Marc-André Dalbavie. SFCMF has always had an eye for both youth and music by American composers, and the two come together in 2013 via a special residency program. Over a week, three talented rising composers — Reena Esmail, David Hertzberg and Elizabeth Ogonek — will write a string quartet in consultation with the FLUX quartet, which will then perform the new works. Also on that premiere program will be festival artistic director Marc Neikrug’s String Quartet No. 4. In addition, just to mention a few other highlights, the Bach Plus series returns; Schoenberg’s evocative and angular Pierrot Lunaire will feature soprano Lucy Shelton; the Orion Quartet will play Schumann’s complete threework oeuvre for string quartets; and the same composer’s Piano Quintet, op. 44, is also on the slate.

Celebrating 30 years The Santa Fe Desert Chorale will be a special Chamber Music Festival guest ensemble this summer, performing Book V of Gesualdo’s madrigals — and this

Santa Fe Desert Chorale July 11-Aug. 29 505-988-2282

on top of a 30th anniversary celebration that starts July 11 and ends August 29 in venues including the Cathedral Basilica and Loretto Chapel. Music director Joshua Habermann has programmed repertoires that span the centuries, including “The Road Home: Songs of America,” “Northern Lights” (a sonic tour of Scandinavia), “Touched With Fire” (music inspired by Van Gogh and others) and “The Triumphs of Oriana: The Birth of the English Madrigal.” There will also be a special series of French music, “Romance to Requiem,” with Susan Graham as soloist in the Duruflé Requiem and in Reynaldo Hahn’s “À Chloris.” There is a gala benefit cabaret August 29 starring the sterling soprano Sylvia McNair.

More music, dance One of Northern New Mexico’s best-kept musical secrets is the Abiquiú Chamber Music Festival, which offers performances by first-rate artists in an intimate setting. The 2013 summer offerings run from June 9 through September 8; artists include violinists David Felberg and Carmelo de los Santos; pianists Robert McDonald, Rubia Santos and Emanuele Arciuli; and singers Virginia Dupuy and Angela Turner Wilson. Finally, for dance lovers, Aspen Santa Fe Ballet offers two programs this summer. The first, at 8 p.m. July 12 and 13, presents Return to a Strange Land by Jiri Kylian and two new works by Cayetano Soto and Norbert De La Cruz. The second repertoire, set for August 31, offers Trey McIntyre’s Like a Samba (a longtime company landmark), Last by Alejandro Cerrudo, and OVER GLOW by Jorma Elo.

The Santa Fe Concert Association

The Santa Fe Opera

Aug. 4-18 Tickets Santa Fe, 505-988-1234

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

June 28-Aug. 24 505-986-5900

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The Schedule Faith Amour

Wednesday, June 12 Following the graceful lineage of Sarah Vaughan and Dianne Reeves, Amour is a multidimensional vocalist and composer whose panoramic range in opera, jazz, neosoul and gospel styles paints a melodic mood on any stage.

Joan Kessler and the Santa Fe Great Big Jazz Band

Wednesday, June 19 The name says it all. Kessler’s vocals atop bold jazz standards define this seminal and fantastic Santa Fe band.

J.Q. Whitcomb

Wednesday, June 26 Whitcomb — a trumpeter, composer, world traveler and Santa Fe native — makes music that ranges from poignant and reflective tenderness to brash and boisterous exuberance. His compositions evoke adventures and romances and his trumpet playing is the ever-adaptable thespian that commands every ear’s attention to the end.

Sainted Jazz

Vinnie and Janice Zummo

By Gabe Gomez

Wednesday, July 10 A music world power couple from New York, the Zummos’ adventurous interests inform an eclectic original sound and give new twists to jazz standards.

John Proulx Quartet

Wednesday, July 17 Singer, pianist, composer and Grammywinning composer Proulx’s piano playing is hot and swinging, and his voice recalls the smooth, mellow sounds of a young Chet Baker.


Wednesday, July 24 Nosotros seamlessly combines Latin rhythms with the elements of flamenco, jazz, salsa and rock, creating an original sound that is unmistakably its own. M.E. Schenck of Hyperactive Music Magazine may have interpreted the band’s sound best by saying, “Nosotros’ music is not to be explained; it is to be felt in the pit of our souls.”

College is setting for outdoor music festival Music on the Hill at St. John’s College is unlike any other summer event in Santa Fe. On Wednesday evenings in June and July, Santa Fe locals and visitors alike pour onto the St. John’s athletic field to enjoy live music in a casual, comfortable, kid-friendly atmosphere. Nestled at the foot of Atalaya Mountain, the St. John’s campus offers a view that could convince any world traveler to stay around for the summer. Throw in some live music, a beautiful field of fresh-cut grass where it’s safe for kids to run free, and it’s easy to see why Music on the Hill has become a must-do on the summer bucket list. Music on the Hill began eight years ago with some careful planning by a dedicated group of volunteers and college staff. “The college, under President Mike Peter’s leadership, was exploring additional avenues to engage with community members and to give back to the community for all they do to support the college and our students,” said Susan Patten, director of development at St. Details John’s. “We just hoped that 100 people would show up for the first event!” Music on the Hill currently averages 2,000 attendees per week. The Eighth Annual The concert series is decidedly jazz-centric: Music on the Hill often Music on the Hill features quartets, vocalists and ensembles for the jazz purists, closely at St. John’s College related Latin and funk groove bands and the occasional splash of St. John’s College Athletic Fields R&B. The result of this eclectic offering can be seen in the audience’s 1160 Camino de Cruz Blanca diversity: It’s quintessentially Santa Fean — fun, worldly and never All concerts are between 6 and 8 p.m. dull. Indeed, far from being background music, the local and national Admission is free acts that grace the stage are an embodiment of the healthy jazz scene in New Mexico. Many members of the Music on the Hill audience are passionate listeners and strong supporters of live music. “We now bring in music from literally all over the United States,” Patten said. “It has truly turned into a signature summer event in Santa Fe, and we have developed a great relationship with the city.” Recently, St. John’s expanded the music series beyond the summer and introduced “Music on the Hill: Elevated,” a nightclub-like concert hosted in the Great Hall of the college’s campus. The two sold-out shows offered an intimate music setting for jazz aficionados and date-night couples. Future “Elevated” concerts are in the planning stage. 1 08

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Need to know

If you’re planning to attend the Eighth Annual Music on the Hill at St. John’s College this summer, here’s what you should know: • Parking nearby is hard to find, but a free shuttle runs on a regular basis to and from Museum Hill parking lots between 5 and 8:30 p.m. Plan to arrive early. • Bicycle riders can park their bikes by the adjoining tennis courts. • Umbrellas, tents, tall tables and tall chairs are not permitted. • If it looks like rain, call 505-984-6000 or visit for cancellation information. • Adult beverages are allowed. Please consume responsibly. • Feel free to bring the cooler, the blanket and the Frisbee. • Music on the Hill is a smoke-free event. • Can’t make it to the store or prepare a picnic supper at home? Delicious food by Walter Burke Catering is available for purchase at the event, and beverages are sold by Sprouts Farmers Market.

More summer sonics Call it the power of suggestion, but when organizers of the Santa Fe Bandstand Music Series began surveying its audience, one thing became abundantly clear: People wanted more music. In the spirit of community that is at its core, the music series, which is celebrating its 11th year on the Santa Fe Plaza, was expanded from seven to nine weeks and now includes a few weekend shows. The Santa Fe Bandstand Music Series’ new director, Michael Dellheim, is at the helm of this ambitious expansion, which now extends beyond Indian Market Week. Dellheim took over for David Lescht — the beloved former director and youth advocate — who died last year. “We felt it was the right thing to do, to start on the first day of summer,” Dellheim said of the new June 21st launch date for the series. Audiences at the Bandstand will now be privy to a wider selection of music. Some notable acts include The Dunwells from Leeds, England; country artist James “Slim” Hand; indie band A Hawk and a Hacksaw; and The Derailers from Austin, Texas. The noon concerts, too, have changed and will only run through July.

Santa Fe Bandstand Music Series June 21-August 23 Santa Fe Plaza

We are located 10 minutes from the Plaza near Museum Hill Please call for directions and appointment 505.988.5116

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

1 09

Georgia O’Keeffe in New Mexico: Architecture, KAtsinAm, And the LAnd M ay 1 7 – S e p T e M B e r 1 1 , 2 O 1 3 This beauTiful exhibiTion tells the

little-known story of how the New Mexico landscape, and O’Keeffe’s introduction to Hispanic and Indigenous art and architecture, inspired a significant creative shift in her painting. In addition to O’Keeffe’s iconic landscapes, it includes newly discovered paintings, and the work of Hopi artists ramona Sakiestewa and Dan Namingha. Georgia O’Keeffe in New Mexico: architecture, Katsinam, and the Land was organized by the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum. This exhibition and related programming were made possible in part by a generous grant from The Burnett Foundation. additional support was provided by american express, the Healy Foundation, Shiprock Gallery, Hotel Santa Fe, the City of Santa Fe arts Commission 1% Lodger’s Tax Funding. partially funded by the City of Santa Fe arts Commission and the 1% Lodgers’ Tax.

Georgia O’Keeffe, Black Cross with Stars and Blue, 1929. Oil on canvas, 40 x 30 inches. private Collection. © Georgia O’Keeffe Museum

Georgia O’Keeffe, Black Place, Grey and Pink, 1949. Oil on canvas, 36 x 48 inches. Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, Gift of The Burnett Foundation. © Georgia O’Keeffe Museum.

• 2 1 7 J O H N S O N S t r e e t, S a N ta f e , N e w m e x i c O 5O5.946.1OOO • OKeeffemUSeUm.OrG


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VERVE Gallery of Photography

FIGURES STUDIED 10th Anniversary Group Exhibition 28 June - 31 August, 2013 Reception on 19 July from 5-7pm

219 E a s t M a rcy S t r e e t , S an t a Fe , N e w Me x i c o 8 7 5 0 1 5 0 5 - 9 8 2 - 5 0 0 9 w w w. ve r ve g a l l e r m

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico



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Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico



New Mexico as she saw it

Exhibit highlights O’Keeffe’s reflections on land, architecture, icons

Georgia O’Keeffe, Lavender Hill with Green, 1952. Oil on canvas. 12 x 28 1/8 in. (30. 48 x 68.99 cm.) Georgia O’Keeffe Museum. Gift of The Burnett Foundation and The Georgia O’Keeffe Foundation. © Georgia O’Keeffe Museum

By Kay Lockridge

Early in the last century, Northern New Mexico captured Georgia O’Keeffe’s imagination in much the same way it does many newcomers — fascination with and appreciation of the land, the diversity of cultures and the art and architecture created by those cultures. Opening Friday, May 17, the O’Keeffe Museum’s new exhibit, “Georgia O’Keeffe in New Mexico: Architecture, Katsinam and the Land,” both portrays and attempts to explain that phenomenon. “O’Keeffe first came to Northern New Mexico in 1929 and was immediately struck by the landscape, so different from New York City and even her home state of Texas, as well as the Indian and Hispanic cultures that inhabited it,” said Carolyn Kastner, curator of the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum and co-curator of this exhibit. “She was a prime proponent of American modernism, whose main theme was abstractions. “First, she was the most American of these painters who created Urban Modernism, focusing on New York. Her second great contribution … was a regional Modernism, specifically New Mexico. [O’Keeffe] was looking for an identifiable American modernism, and New Mexico filled the bill: It was both distinctively American and personally appealing to her,” Kastner said. “The landscape spoke to her dedication to the natural world and Modernism,” Kastner continued. “Yet, O’Keeffe never stood still; she was always changing, and the Indian and Hispanic representations show that. Our job [at the museum] is to first make viewers comfortable with her work as they’ve known it [through her landscapes] and then move them along to the cultural icons, much as O’Keeffe herself did.” Kastner emphasized that O’Keeffe came to New Mexico in pursuit of her art. “New Mexico was a natural progression of that pursuit after New York,” she said. “Once here, she rarely looked back, especially after [Alfred] Stieglitz’s death in 1949.” Stieglitz, one of the 20th century’s most noted photographers and owner of a gallery in New York dedicated to Modernism, became O’Keeffe’s lover, dealer and then husband after introducing her work to the New York art world.

Georgia O’Keeffe, Black Cross with Stars and Blue, 1929. Oil on canvas, 40 x 30 in. (101.6 x 76.2 cm.) Private Collection. © Georgia O’Keeffe Museum 1 14

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Souvenir book

An exhibition catalog is available at the O’Keeffe Museum Shop and at Collected Works Bookstore. In addition to depicting all of the art on display in the “Georgia O’Keeffe in New Mexico: Architecture, Katsinam and the Land,” exhibit, the book includes an introduction by Barbara Buhler Lynes and essays by Carolyn Kastner, W. Jackson Rushing III of the University of Oklahoma, Hopi artists Ramona Sakiestewa and Dan Namingha, and Hopi tribal and council member Alph H. Secakuku. Abstract interpretations of Katsinam by Sakiestewa and Namingha also appear in the O’Keeffe show.

Diversity of subjects “Georgia O’Keeffe in New Mexico” is a collaborative effort between the O’Keeffe Museum and the Montclair (New Jersey) Art Museum, begun about four years ago. The latter museum sought to pair its Native American art collection, primarily Hopi and Zuni Katsina tithu — “Kachina dolls” — with O’Keeffe’s early drawings and paintings of the spirit figures. Between 1931 and 1945, O’Keeffe completed 17 such drawings and paintings. This show highlights her work in New Mexico between 1929 and 1953, the last year she used the area’s landscape forms as subject matter. The artist went to Pueblo dances and Indian rodeos upon her arrival in New Mexico, where she saw the Katsinam and decided to draw and paint them. “They were isolated objects that represented the local art and fascinated O’Keeffe. There was no attempt [on her part] at interpretation or explanation, nor were there religious connotations inherent in her work,” Kastner said. In organizing the exhibit, however, the co-curators — Barbara Buhler Lynes, former O’Keeffe Museum curator, and Kastner — determined that they needed to consider whether to include the Katsinam figures or depictions. After more than a year of research led by Kastner and a curatorial team from the O’Keeffe Museum working with the Hopi and Pueblo people, it was decided that O’Keeffe’s depictions would be shown at the four museums hosting the exhibit but that the Katsinam figures would not be in the O’Keeffe show. (In addition to the Montclair Art Museum, where the show opened last fall, and the O’Keeffe, the exhibit traveled to the Denver Art Museum, where it just closed, and will finish at the Heard Museum in Phoenix next fall.) “Some Hopis and Pueblo people did not want either O’Keeffe’s work or the figures exhibited,” Kastner explained. “We considered closing the show altogether or radically changing its focus. There’s a certain sensitivity of which we were aware, and we needed to be both responsible to and respectful of this sensitivity. “At the same time, this museum represents honestly an artist’s work, and that includes these drawings and paintings by O’Keeffe. The Kachina [figures] themselves are not hers, and it’s both considerate and appropriate that they not be shown in Santa Fe,” Kastner concluded. “All museums, both public and private, in the United States belong to the American Alliance of Museums and are committed to the standards of public education and ethics,” Kastner noted. “Our hope, with this collaborative effort, is that visitors to the exhibit will understand the breadth of [O’Keeffe’s] interest in New Mexico and how she honed and expanded that interest through exploration of a very specific American iconography.” New Mexico’s regional architecture also intrigued O’Keeffe. Adobe construction was new to her, and she was inspired to paint and draw New Mexico’s churches, crosses and folk art. In fact, her home continued to fascinate her, and she repeatedly painted the door to her Abiquiú home, as well as its corners, windows and the shadows cast on them. “Georgia O’Keeffe explored an extraordinary diversity of subjects between 1929 and 1953, including the architecture, landscape and religious arts of Northern New Mexico,” said Robert A. Kret, director of the O’Keeffe Museum. “[This exhibit] reveals the breadth of experiences that inspired a new direction in her art, and the museum is pleased to share this work with both norteaños and visitors to the City Different.”

Georgia O’Keeffe, Kachina, 1934. Oil on canvas, 22 x 12 in. (55.9 x 30.5 cm.) Private Collection. © Georgia O’Keeffe Museum

Details Georgia O’Keeffe in New Mexico: Architecture, Katsinam and the Land May 17 through September 8, 2013 Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, 217 Johnson St., Santa Fe For more information, call 505-946-1000 or visit

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico



Georgia O’Keeffe Museum

217 Johnson St., 505-946-1000 HOURS: Sunday–Thursday & Saturday, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Friday, 10 a.m.–7 p.m. ADMISSION: Adults, $12 New Mexico Residents, $6 (First Friday of the month, 5 to 7 p.m., FREE) Seniors (60+) and Students (18+) w/ID, $10 Military and Law Enforcement, $6 Youth and Students (18 and under), FREE

Harwood Museum of Art

238 Ledoux St., Taos, 575-758-9826 HOURS: Monday–Saturday, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Sunday, Noon–5 p.m. Closed Monday, November through March ADMISSION: Adults, $10 Seniors (65+) and Students, $8 Children (age 12 and under), University of New Mexico students and faculty and members of the Harwood Museum of Art Alliance, FREE Taos County residents, every Sunday, FREE

Millicent Rogers Museum

1504 Millicent Rogers Road, Taos 575-758-2462 HOURS: Daily, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Closed Monday, November through March ADMISSION: Adults, $10 Seniors (60+), $8 Students (16 to 21) w/ID, $6 Children (6 to 16), $2 Children under 6, FREE Military (Active Duty or Veterans), $6 Taos County residents w/ID, daily, FREE

Museum of Contemporary Native Arts

108 Cathedral Place, 505-983-8900 HOURS: Monday & Wednesday–Saturday (closed Tuesday), 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Sunday, Noon–5 p.m. ADMISSION: Adults, $10 Seniors (62+), Students w/ID and New Mexico residents, $5 Members, Native people, Veterans and

families, youth 16 and under, and New Mexico residents on Sunday, FREE

Museum of Indian Arts & Culture

Museum Hill, 710 Camino Lejo off Old Santa Fe Trail, 505-476-1250 WINTER HOURS: Tuesday–Sunday, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. SUMMER HOURS (Memorial Day–Labor Day): Daily, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. ADMISSION: Adults, $9 New Mexico residents, $6 (FREE on Sunday) Museum members and children 16 and under FREE A 4-day pass for unlimited admission to the four museums in the Museum of New Mexico system (the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture, the Museum of International Folk Art, the New Mexico History Museum and the New Mexico Museum of Art) can be purchased for $20 ($18 for New Mexico residents). A one-day pass for any two of these museums can be purchased for $15 ($12 for New Mexico residents).

Museum of International Folk Art

Museum Hill, 706 Camino Lejo off Old Santa Fe Trail, 505-476-1200 WINTER HOURS: Tuesday–Sunday, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. SUMMER HOURS (Memorial Day through Labor Day): Daily, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. ADMISSION: Adults, $9 New Mexico residents w/ID, $6 (FREE on Sunday) Youth 16 and under and Foundation Members, FREE New Mexico resident Seniors (60+) w/ ID, FREE on Wednesday

Museum of Spanish Colonial Art

Museum Hill, 750 Camino Lejo 505-982-2226 WINTER HOURS: Tuesday–Sunday, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. SUMMER HOURS (Memorial Day through Labor Day): Daily, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Closed July 6, 7, and 8, 2013 ADMISSION: Adults, $5 Under 16, FREE and New Mexico residents on Sunday, FREE 116

New Mexico History Museum Palace of the Governors

New Mexico History Museum 113 Lincoln Ave., 505-476-5200 Palace of the Governors 105 West Palace Ave., 505-476-5100 HOURS: Tuesday–Sunday, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. (Friday until 8 p.m.) (Also open Monday, Memorial Day through Labor Day.) ADMISSION: Tickets include access to the Palace, New Mexico History Museum and Palace Print Shop. Adults, $9 New Mexico residents, $6 (FREE on Sunday) New Mexico Seniors (60+), FREE on Wednesday Children 16 and under and Museum Members, FREE Friday evening, 5 to 8, FREE Call for group rates: 505-476-5087.

Poeh Museum

78 Cities of Gold Road, Pojoaque 505-455-3334 HOURS: Monday–Friday, 8 a.m.–5 p.m. Saturday, 9 a.m.–4 p.m. ADMISSION: Donations are appreciated.

SITE Santa Fe

1606 Paseo de Peralta, 505-989-1199 HOURS: Thursday–Saturday, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Friday, 10 a.m.–7 p.m. Sunday, Noon–5 p.m. Closed Monday & Wednesday (Open Wednesday July 17–August 28, 2013) ADMISSION: Adults, $10 Students and Seniors, $5 18 and under, FREE SITE Santa Fe members, FREE Friday all day, Saturday 10 a.m. to noon, FREE

New Mexico Museum of Art

Taos Art Museum

Pablita Velarde Museum of Indian Women in the Arts

Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian

107 W. Palace Ave., 505-476-5072 HOURS: Daily, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Friday, 10 a.m.–8 p.m. Closed Monday, September–May ADMISSION: Adults, $9 New Mexico residents, $6 (FREE on Sunday) Friday evening, 5 to 8, FREE Children under 16 and Museum members, FREE New Mexico resident Seniors w/ID, FREE on Wednesday

213 Cathedral Place, 505-988-8900 HOURS: Friday–Sunday, Noon–4 p.m (Closed May 6–31) ADMISSION: FREE June 1–September 30, Helen Hardin Exhibit, $10

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(in the home of Nicolai Fechin) 227 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos 575-758-2690 HOURS: Wednesday–Sunday, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Please call for winter hours. ADMISSION: Adults, $8 Seniors, $7 Students, $5 Children, $4 Children under 12, FREE Taos County residents, FREE on Sunday

Museum Hill, 704 Camino Lejo 505-982-4636 HOURS: Monday–Saturday, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Sunday, 1 p.m.–5 p.m. ADMISSION: Free; donations are appreciated.

Note: Hours and admissions fees are subject to change.

Remarkable Collection of Former Prime Minister of Peru donated to the Spanish Colonial Arts Society.

Silver filigree baskets from Ayacucho, gilded frames from Cuzco, reverse-painted glass from Cajamarca, folding screens from Korea and China, porcelain tableware from France, silver-plated dessert settings from London—these were just some of the furnishings found in the elegant home of Miriam and Pedro Beltrán in Lima in the 1950s where dignitaries from around the world were entertained. The collection amassed by the Beltráns, guided by Miriam’s artistic eye, reflects not only their international life style, but their abiding interest in and passion for Peru. Side-byside with European and Asian golden age furnishings are pieces emblematic of Peru and its history. Selected to be Peru’s Ambassador to the U.S., Peru’s Prime Minister and Minister of Finance, and editor and publisher of Peru’s highly regarded newspaper, La Prensa, Beltrán was the quintessential Peruvian gentleman. A lifelong advocate of free speech, he was awarded Columbia School of Journalism’s prestigious Maria Moors Cabot Award for Freedom of the Press. Beltran’s economic reforms during his tenure as Minister of Finance stabilized Peru’s economy and mobilized the middle class. Miriam, a Junior Economic Analyst for the Department of State and a founding member of Lima’s Museum of Fine Arts, was no less passionate about her adopted country. Their story and collection will be on view starting June 22 at the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art.

Grand Opening 12:00PM 750 Camino Lejo On Museum Hill Santa Fe, New Mexico 87505

62nd Annual Traditional

July 27th– July 28th, 2013

On the Plaza in Santa Fe, New Mexico

w w w. s p a n i s h c o l on i a l . o r g

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico



MO RIA MA L D Y 2 AY 5-2 W 6, 2 EE 013 KEN



Photos by Carol Franco


Robin Waynee

Dobkin Family Foundation

Lorraine Lewis


May 25-26, 2013 Santa Fe Convention Center • Over 200 of the best Native American artists • Benefits the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture •

Tammy Garcia

2013 Featured Artist Tammy Garcia Join us at “Breakfast with Tammy” Wednesday, May 24, 9am Museum Hill Café Museum of Indian Arts & Culture Tickets $40 Available at

JUST A FEW OF OUR MUSEUM-QUALITY ARTISTS Keri Ataumbi • Ernest & Veronica Benally • Black Eagle • DY Begay • Autumn Borts-Medlock • Nocona Burgess • Joe & Althea Cajero Richard & Jared Chavez • Randy Chitto • Evelyn Fredericks • Tammy Garcia • Gaussoin family • Goldenrod • Benjamin Harjo Jr. Charlene Holy Bear • Delbridge Honanie • Mona Laughing • Samuel Manymules • Les Namingha • Ed Archie NoiseCat • Amado Pena 1 1 8 Swentzell B ienv eni d•os 201 3 Ken Romero • Maria Samora • Penny Singer • Roxanne Kathleen Wall • Liz Wallace • Robin Waynee • Yellowman

calendar Compiled by Kay Lockridge

May 21, Tuesday

May 25, Saturday


6-7 p.m. Slide Show 2.0: “Promoting

10 a.m.-4 p.m. The Ninth Annual Native

Your Work with Digital Video/Apple iMovie,” sponsored by the Santa Fe Community Arts Commission at the Community Gallery, 201 W. Marcy St. Free. For information: call 505-9556705 or visit

May 19, Sunday 10 a.m. The annual Grand Festival Weekend, featuring crafts on the historic Taos Plaza, concludes today. The Grand Festival Weekend is part of what the town hopes will become the annual Lilac Festival, which began May 12 and runs through Sunday, May 26 this year. Free. For information: visit 10 a.m.-4 p.m. The Santa Fe Fiber Arts

Festival ends today at El Rancho de las Golondrinas: For information: call 505-471-2261 or visit

10 a.m.-5 p.m. The 22nd annual

Eldorado Studio tour, featuring the artwork of 106 artists in 69 studios, concludes today. Free. For information and a map, visit

10 a.m.-5 p.m. “Georgia O’Keeffe in

New Mexico: Architecture, Katsinam, and the Land,” which opened May 17, runs through Sept. 8 at the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, 217 Johnson St. For information: call 505-946-1000 or visit

1-4 p.m. The Museum of International

Folk Art, 706 Camino Lejo, hosts “Curandersimo: Herbal Cures and Remedies,” with Nasario Garcia and local producers and providers. For information: call 505-476-1200 or visit 4 p.m. Spring’s Passion: The Santa Fe

Symphony and Chorus presents “Carmina Burana” by Carl Orff at the Lensic Performing Arts Center, 225 W. San Francisco St. For tickets and

May 22, Wednesday information: call 505-983-1414 or visit The 28th annual Santa Fe Century Ride/Bike/Run takes place along N.M.

14, the Turquoise Trail. Shorter rides of 25 and 50 miles are available for those who opt out of the 100-miler. For information: call 505-982-1282 or visit

May 20, Monday 7 a.m.-6 p.m. The Georgia O’Keeffe Museum sponsors a Spring Art Session at the artist’s home and studio in Abiquiú. Artists at all levels will have the opportunity to sketch, draw and watercolor independently on the property that helped inspire O’Keeffe’s art. Half-day ($325) or fullday ($600) sessions are available. For information, call: 505-946-1000 or visit 9 a.m.-5 p.m. “New Mexico: Unfolding,”

an exhibit of contemporary fiber art by Studio Art Quilt Associates of New Mexico, at New Mexico State Capitol Rotunda Gallery (open Monday through Friday) continues through Aug. 16. 411 State Capitol. For information: call 505986-4614 or visit

9 a.m. Breakfast with the Artist, featuring Santa Clara Pueblo potter and sculptor Tammy Garcia, the 2013 Native Treasures Living Treasure at the Museum Hill Café, followed by the presentation of the honor at the nearby Museum of Indian Arts & Culture. For information: call 505-982-7799, Ext. 3, or visit

May 23, Thursday Noon. Adrienne Keene, Harvard

doctoral candidate, discusses “Admiration/Appropriation: Native Art Globalized” a talk about the globalized fascination with Native cultures and aesthetics over the last century, at the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture on Museum Hill, Camino Lejo. Admission is free. For information and reservations: call 505-954-7205.

May 24, Friday 5:30-7:30 p.m. The Benefit Pre-Sale Party kicks off the Ninth Annual Native Treasures Indian Arts Festival at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center, 201 W. Marcy St. Admission includes music, refreshments and an Early Bird ticket for the show opening Saturday morning. For tickets and information: visit the Lensic Box Office, 211 W. San Francisco St. or or call 505-988-1234.

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


Treasures Indian Arts Festival opens at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center. Sales benefit the artists and the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture, sponsor of the event. Tickets at the door: $10; $20 includes the Early Bird Opening at 9 a.m. For information: call 505-9827799, Ext. 3, or visit

10 a.m.-5 p.m. The Northern New

Mexico Fine Arts and Crafts Guild presents its three-day Cathedral Park Arts & Crafts Fair at the park next to the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi, 131 Cathedral Place. Free. For information: visit

The historic Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad begins rolling in northwest New Mexico and southern Colorado and will continue through Oct. 20. The narrow-gauge railroad was designated a National Historic Landmark last fall. For schedule and tickets: call 888-286-2737 or visit

May 26, Sunday 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Ninth Annual Native

Treasures Indian Arts Festival continues and concludes at the Community Convention Center. Admission is free today.

10 a.m.-5 p.m. The Northern New

Mexico Fine Arts and Crafts Guild continues its Cathedral Park Arts & Crafts Fair. Free. For information: visit

May 27, Monday 10 a.m.-5 p.m. The Northern New Mexico Fine Arts and Crafts Guild ends its Cathedral Park Arts & Crafts Fair. Free. For information: visit

the Museum of International Folk Art on Museum Hill in its exhibit, “New World Cuisine,” to present demonstrations and samplings. For information: call 505-577-5286 or 505-992-7600 or visit or 10 a.m.-4 p.m. The Spring Festival

& Children’s Fair at El Rancho de las Golondrinas continues and ends today.

1-4 p.m. Santa Fe Botanical Garden’s Home and Garden Tours. For tickets or information: Call 505-988-1234 or visit or santafebotanical 2:30 p.m. The Santa Fe Community

Self-powered micro gas lights

Trainmaster Cannonball Automatic Chronograph - 43mm

The New Mexico Museum of Art, New Mexico History Museum, Palace of the Governors, Museum of Indian Arts & Culture and Museum of International Folk Art open on Mondays for the summer season. For information: call 505-982-6366 or visit

JUNE June 1, Saturday 10 a.m-4.p.m. The annual Spring Festival

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& Children’s Fair at El Rancho de las Golondrinas features costumed villagers shearing sheep, baking bread and playing games with children. Admission, at the door, is $8 for adults, $5 for seniors and teenagers, and free for children 12 and younger. For information: call 505-471-2261 or visit 12-4 p.m. Opening of “A Straight Line

Curved,” the ultimate Helen Hardin show, at the Pablita Velarde Museum of Indian Women in the Arts, 213 Cathedral Place. The museum is open weekly from Friday through Sunday; the show continues through Sept. 1. For information: call 505-988-8900 or visit

3 p.m. Spring concert by the Santa Fe Women’s Ensemble, including pieces by Pablo Casals, Tomas Luis de Victoria, medieval chants and international folk songs, at the First Presbyterian Church, 208 Grant Ave. For tickets or information: call 505-954-4922 or visit

June 2, Sunday 10 a.m. Delicious New Mexico, a nonprofit organization dedicated to creating a strong and sustainable regional food economy, has joined with

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Orchestra presents its season finale at the St. Francis Auditorium in the New Mexico Museum of Art on the Plaza. Free.

3 p.m. Spring concert by the Santa Fe Women’s Ensemble, including pieces by Pablo Casals, Tomas Luis de Victoria, medieval chants and international folk songs, at the Carmelite Conference Center, Immaculate Heart of Mary Chapel, 50 Mt. Carmel Road. For tickets or information: call 505-954-4922 or visit

June 4, Tuesday 6-7 p.m. Slide Show 2.0: “Promoting

Your Work with Digital Video/Windows Movie Maker,” sponsored by the Santa Fe Community Arts Commission at the Community Gallery, 201 W. Marcy St. Free. For information: call 505-955-6705 or visit

June 6, Thursday Santa Fe’s biggest roots-music event, the 14th annual Thirsty Ear Music Festival, presents local and national musicians at a variety of sites. For information, visit: Taos Solar Music Festival features Mumford and Sons, the Grammy awardwinning British alternative folk band, at Kit Carson Park. For information: visit

June 7, Friday The Thirsty Ear Music Festival continues in the City Different. 5-8 p.m. Free Friday Evenings begin at the Museum of International Folk Art and the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture, Museum Hill, and continue through July (except for July 12) and August. For information: call 505-476-1200 or 505-476-1250 or visit or

June 8, Saturday

Sunday, June 16

The Thirsty Ear Music Festival continues.

The arts and crafts show sponsored by Challenge New Mexico on the Plaza continues and ends today.

The Thirsty Ear Music Festival continues and ends today. 1-4 p.m. “Tako Kichi: Kite Crazy

June 19, Wednesday 6:30-9:30 p.m. Professional rodeo

cowboys and cowgirls compete in the 63rd Annual Rodeo at the Santa Fe Fairgrounds at 3237 Rodeo Road. For tickets: call 505-988-1234 or visit For information: call 505-471-4300 or visit

in Japan” opens at the Museum of International Folk Art, 706 Camino Lejo. Free for New Mexico residents; regular admission fees for out-of-state visitors. For information: call 505-476-1200 or visit

June 20, Thursday

1-4 p.m. Santa Fe Botanical Garden’s

6:30-9:30 p.m. The Santa Fe Rodeo

Home and Garden Tours. For tickets or information: Call 505-9881234 or visit or

June 12, Wednesday 6-8 p.m. The Music on the Hill concert

series, sponsored by St. John’s College, begins and continues on Wednesday evenings through July on the college’s athletic field. Free. For information: visit or call 505-984-6000.

June 13, Thursday Visitors are invited to the San Antonio Feast Corn Dance at Taos Pueblo. For information call: 505-758-1024, 1028, 9593 or visit

June 14, Friday Santa Fe Pride begins today and continues through Sunday, May 23. It celebrates gay pride with a series of parties, dances, fundraisers and soirees throughout the City Different, as well as a parade that winds its way through Railyard Park for the festival. For information: visit

June 15, Saturday

continues at the Santa Fe Fairgrounds.

June 21, Friday Festival opens today and celebrates Greek culture with Greek food, beer and wine, as well as music and dancing at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center, 201 W. Marcy St. For information: call 505-466-0015 or visit

108 Don Gaspar 505-988-9558 open daily

2:45-3:45 p.m. The Beltran-Kropp

Peruvian Art Collection opens at the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art, 750 Camino Lejo. For information: call 505982-2226 or visit

5:30 p.m. “Viva Flora! Treasured Plants of New Mexico,” an exhibit featuring artworks based on plants with a history in New Mexico by 30 artists, opens at the Community Gallery, 201 W. Marcy St., and continues through Saturday, Aug. 3. Free. For information: call 505-955-6705 or visit 6:30-9:30 p.m. The Santa Fe Rodeo

continues at the Santa Fe Fairgrounds.

June 22, Saturday

9 a.m.-5 p.m. Challenge New Mexico

10 a.m.-4 p.m. The annual Herb and

— which offers therapeutic horseback riding for the physically and mentally challenged — sponsors the 35th Annual Arts and Crafts Show on the Plaza. For information: call 505-988-7621, Ext. 114, or visit

Lavender Fair is celebrated at El Rancho de las Golondrinas. Admission is $8 for adults, $5 for seniors and teenagers, and free for children 12 and younger. For information: call 505-471-2261 or visit

3:30-11 p.m. The FantaSe Community

11 a.m.-9 p.m. The Santa Fe Greek Festival at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center continues and ends today.

Festival, hosted by Creative Santa Fe, celebrates the re-opening of DeVargas Park with the Rodeo de Santa Fe parade from the P.E.R.A. parking lot to the park; live bands, DJs, a fashion show, skateboarding demonstrations, interactive light installations, art projects and food trucks. For information: call 505-9899934 or visit

Komarov dress with Tony Malmed jewelry

11 a.m.-9 p.m. The Santa Fe Greek

Photo© Kate Russell, Styling by Greg Purdy

June 9, Sunday

6:30-9:30 p.m. The Santa Fe Rodeo

continues and ends today at the Santa Fe Fairgrounds.

June 23, Sunday 10 a.m.-4 p.m. The Herb and Lavender

Fair continues and ends today at El Rancho de las Golondrinas.

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

1 21


June 24, Monday

tHe santa Fe ConCert assoCiation

dances at Ohkay Owingeh Pueblo. For information: call 595-852-4400 or visit

San Juan Day Corn Dance at Taos

Pueblo. For information and time: call 575-1024, 1928, 9593 or visit taospueblo. com.

St. John the Baptist Feast Day

2013-2014 season

Festival oF song

June 26, Wednesday

santa Fe opera stars in Concert

10 a.m.-2 p.m. The Museum of Spanish Colonial Art, 750 Camino Lejo, presents “Arts Alive: Pottery with Camilla Trujillo.” Free. For information: call 505982-2226 or visit

Christine Brewer, soprano Joseph Illick, piano Lensic Performing Arts Center Sunday, August 4, 2013 4:00pm

June 28, Friday

Presented by the Santa Fe Opera

8:30 p.m. The Santa Fe Opera opens

its 56th season with “Grand Duchess of Gerolstein.” This opera also ends the season on Saturday, August 24. For tickets and information: call 505-9865900 or visit

paul appleby, tenor Joseph Illick, piano Scottish Rite Center Sunday, August 11, 2013 4:00pm

5:30-7:30 p.m. The annual Santa Fe

Michael Fabiano, tenor Joseph Illick, piano Scottish Rite Center Wednesday, August 14, 2013 4:00pm

Studio Tour begins tonight with a Preview Party and Group Show at the Candyman Center, 850 St. Michael’s Drive. Free. For information: call 505983-6021 or visit

June 29, Saturday

Jake Heggie & Friends

10 a.m.-6 p.m. The Santa Fe Studio Tour

Jake Heggie, pianist & composer Heidi Stober, soprano Susanne Mentzer, mezzo-soprano William Burden, tenor Scottish Rite Center Sunday, August 18, 2013 4:00pm

continues at artists’ homes and studios. For information: call 505-983-6021 or visit

8:30 p.m. “The Marriage of Figaro”

opens tonight at the Santa Fe Opera. For tickets and information: call 505-986-5900 or visit

Festival oF DanCe

June 30, Sunday

stars of american Ballet

Noon-5 p.m. The Santa Fe Studio Tour

Lensic Performing Arts Center Friday, August 23, 2013 7:30pm Saturday, August 24, 2013 7:30pm Two different programs

continues and ends today.

JULY July 3, Wednesday 10 a.m.-2 p.m. The Museum of Spanish Colonial Art, 750 Camino Lejo, presents “Arts Alive: Retablos with Jose Armijo.” Free. For information: call 505-982-2226 or visit

season opening gala Wagner Concert

Heidi Melton, soprano Brandon Jovanovich, tenor

July 4, Thursday

Joseph Illick, conductor, SFCA Orchestra Lensic Performing Arts Center Sunday, August 25, 2013 4:00pm

7 a.m.-5 p.m. Volunteers serve up griddle-hot pancakes and sausage on the Plaza to benefit children and families through the Santa Fe Rotary Club. Breakfast runs from 7 a.m. to noon; vintage car show, 7 a.m.-1 p.m.; entertainment, 7 a.m.-3 p.m.; arts and crafts show, 7 a.m.-5 p.m. For breakfast tickets and information: call 505-9840022 or visit

For more information go to lensic box office: 988.1234

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6-10 p.m. Fireworks, sponsored by the Santa Fe Boys & Girls Club, explode at Santa Fe High School (Siringo Road) after dark. For information: call 505-983-6632.

July 6, Saturday 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Join the Santa Fe Artists

Market at Cathedral Park next to the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi, 131 Cathedral Place. Free. For information: call 505-310-1555 or visit

Noon-6 p.m. El Rancho de las Golondrinas presents the Santa Fe Wine Festival. Admission of $13 for adults 21 and older includes a wine glass; $5 for teenagers; and free for children 12 and younger. For information: call 505-4712261 or visit or

July 7, Sunday 10 a.m.-5 p.m. The Santa Fe Artists

Market continues and ends today at Cathedral Park next to the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi 131 Cathedral Place. Free.

Noon-6 p.m. The Santa Fe Wine Festival at El Rancho de las Golondrinas continues and ends today.

July 10, Wednesday 10 a.m.-2 p.m. The Museum of Spanish

Colonial Art, 750 Camino Lejo, presents “Arts Alive: Tinwork with Richard Gabriel, Jr.” Free. For information: call 505-982-2226 or visit spanishcolonial. org.

July 11, Thursday 5-8 p.m. Art Santa Fe kicks off its 13th

Anniversary International Art Fair with a Gala Opening and Vernissage at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center, 201 W. Marcy St. For tickets: call 505-988-1234, visit or stop by the Lensic Performing Arts Center box office, 225 W. San Francisco St.

5-9 p.m. Community Celebration at the

Santa Fe Railyard. Procession of 2013 International Folk Art Market artists will be followed by a concert, artist demonstrations and other hands-on activities. Free.

July 12, Friday 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Art Santa Fe presents contemporary gallery artists from throughout the world at its 13th Anniversary International Art Fair at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center, 201 W. Marcy St. For tickets: call 505-988-1234, visit or stop by the Lensic Performing Arts Center

box office, 225 W. San Francisco. For information: call 505-989-1119 or visit 6:30-9 p.m. The Santa Fe International Folk Art Market celebrates its 10th anniversary, beginning with a gala opening party at the Milner Plaza on Museum Hill, 706 Camino Lejo. Tickets include refreshments, music, dancing and shopping with all the artists in attendance, followed by the market Saturday and Sunday on Museum Hill. For tickets and information, call 505-9927600 or visit

July 13, Saturday

Tenth Annual Santa Fe International Folk Art Market opens on Museum Hill. The Early Bird Market opens at 7:30 a.m., followed by the public opening at 9 a.m. Tickets for both the Early Bird

opening and general admission may be purchased in advance or at the gate. Free shuttles will provide transportation to Museum Hill throughout the market. For tickets and information: call 505-4761200 or visit 10 a.m. “Enrique Martinez Celaya: The Pearl” opens at SITE Santa Fe, 1606 Paseo de Peralta and continues through Oct. 13. For information: call 505-9891199 or visit (For this installation, the artist transforms all SITE’s gallery space into an immersive environment.) 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Art Santa Fe continues

its International Art Fair at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center. 8:30 p.m. “La Donna del Lago” opens

at the Santa Fe Opera. For tickets and information: call 505-986-5900 or visit

July 14, Sunday 9 a.m.-5 p.m. The International Folk Art Market celebrates Family Day with artists and visitors. Tickets are $5 in advance, $10 at the gate; children 16 and younger free. 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Art Santa Fe continues and ends its 13th Anniversary International Art Fair at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center. St. Bonaventure Feast Day dances at

Cochiti Pueblo. For information: call 505465-2244 or visit

6 p.m. The Santa Fe Chamber Music

Festival opens its 41st season with “Tchaikovsky & Russian Romance” at St. Francis Auditorium in the New Mexico Museum of Art on the Plaza. The festival continues at various venues around the

city through August 19. For tickets and information: call 505-982-1890 or visit

July 17, Wednesday 12:15 p.m. The New Mexico Museum of Art hosts docent talks about the museum, its history, exhibits and collections every Wednesday through the summer. For information: call 505476-5072 or visit

July 18, Thursday

The Eighth Annual New Mexico Jazz Festival features local talent and jazz

legends and continues through July 27 at venues throughout Santa Fe. For tickets: call 505-988-1234 or visit ticketssantafe. com. For information: visit

July 19, Friday 6 p.m. Cowboy Movie Night at the New

Mexico History Museum, 113 Lincoln Ave.: Edward Abbey and Lonely Are the Brave. Oral historian Jack Loeffler discusses his friendship with Abbey and the transformation of Abbey’s novel The Brave Cowboy into the iconic 1962 Western movie. Free. For information: call 505-476-5200.

Furnishing New Mexico’s Beautiful Homes Since 1987 Dining Room • Bedroom • Entertainment • Lighting • Accessories

July 20, Saturday 10 a.m.-5 p.m. ¡Viva Mexico! celebration

takes place at El Rancho de las Golondrinas and features music, art and more! Admission is $8 for adults, $5 for seniors and teenagers and free for children 12 and younger. For information: call 505-471-2261 or visit

Featuring Attractive Handcrafted Furniture Southwestern Style • Great one-of-a-kind Pieces

10 a.m.-5 p.m. The Northern New

Mexico Fine Arts and Crafts Guild presents the Cathedral Park Arts & Crafts Fair at the park next to the Cathedral Bascilica of St. Francis of Assisi, 131 Cathedral Place. Free. For information: visit

7 p.m. Join renowned storyteller Joe Hayes at the dance grounds of the Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian, 705 Camino Lejo. Free. For information: call 505-982-4636 or visit

SANTA FE COUNTRY FURNITURE 525 Airport Road • 660-4003 • Corner of Airport Rd. & Center Dr.

Monday - Saturday


Closed Sundays


Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

1 23

8:30 p.m. “La Traviata” opens at

the Santa Fe Opera. For tickets and information: call 505-986-5900 or visit

July 21, Sunday 10 a.m.-5 p.m. ¡Viva Mexico! celebration

continues and ends today at El Rancho de las Golondrinas.

7 p.m. The Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian, 704 Camino Lejo, presents renowned storyteller Joe Hayes at the dance grounds. Free. For information: call 505-982-4636 or visit 10 a.m.-5 p.m. The Cathedral Park Arts

& Crafts Fair, sponsored by the Northern New Mexico Fine Arts and Crafts Guild, continues and ends at the park next to the Cathedral Bascilica of St. Francis of Assisi, 131 Cathedral Place. For information: visit

July 23, Tuesday 12:30-4:45 p.m. Behind Adobe Walls

Home and Garden Tour, sponsored by the Santa Fe Garden Club, visits four private residences and gardens. Optional picnic lunch before tour starts at 11:15 a.m. $75 per tour; $20 for optional lunch. For reservations and information: call Westwind Travel at 505-984-0022 or visit

July 24, Wednesday

Enrich Your Life at The Lensic

Music, dance, theater, film, and more, in the heart of Santa Fe

11 a.m.-3 p.m. Luncheon With the Spanish Market Artists, sponsored by the Spanish Colonial Art Society. For information: call 505-982-2226 or visit

July 25, Thursday Santiago Day Corn Dance at Taos

1 24

July 27, Saturday 8 a.m.-5 p.m. The Contemporary Hispanic Market features arts and crafts by New Mexico’s leading-edge Hispanic artists on Lincoln Avenue, next to the Plaza. Free. 8 a.m.-5 p.m. The Traditional Spanish Market spotlights Spanish Colonial colonial artists on the Plaza, with food, music and entertainment. Free.

“Oscar” opens at the Santa Fe Opera. For tickets and information: call 505-986-5900 or visit

July 28, Sunday 8 a.m. Annual Spanish Market Mass at

the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi.

9 a.m.-5 p.m. Contemporary Hispanic

Market continues and ends on Lincoln Avenue, just off the Plaza.

9:30 a.m.-5 p.m. Traditional Spanish Market continues and ends on the Plaza.

July 30, Tuesday 12:30-4:45 p.m. Behind Adobe Walls Home and Garden Tour, sponsored by the Santa Fe Garden Club, visits four different private residences and gardens. Optional picnic lunch before tour starts at 11:15 a.m. $75 per tour; $20 for optional lunch. For reservations and information: call 505-984-0022 or visit


July 26, Friday

9 a.m.-6 p.m. The 41st annual Arts &

at the 26th Annual Contemporary Hispanic Market, Santa Fe Community Convention Center, 201 W. Marcy St., includes food, music and dancing under the stars in the courtyard. Free. For information: call 505-296-2749 or visit

For ticket & event info, call 505-988-1234 or visit

Society presents Anna Maria CardinalliPadilla in concert at the Loretto Chapel, 211 Old Santa Fe Trail. For tickets and information: call 505-982-2226 or visit

Pueblo. For information and time: call 575-758-1024, 1028, 9593 or visit

5:30-8 p.m. Preview Night night

211 West San Francisco Street

7-8:30 p.m. The Spanish Colonial Arts

7 p.m. Members-only preview of the 62nd Annual Traditional Spanish Market, Santa Fe Community Convention Center, 201 W. Marcy St. For membership and preview information: call 505-982-2226 or visit

B i env eni d os 201 3

August 3, Saturday Crafts Show sponsored by Girls Inc. of Santa Fe is a juried show highlighting 150 local, state and national artists. It is the third largest summer market on the Plaza and is free. For information: call 505-9822042 or visit

10 a.m.-4 p.m. The Summer Festival

and Territorial Law and Order features mountain men demonstrating their skills and telling stories of old New Mexico, and Peruvian Paso horses, at El Rancho de las Golondrinas. Admission is $8 for adults, $5 for seniors and teenagers and free for children 12 and younger. For information: call 505-471-2261 or visit

August 4, Sunday 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Girls Inc. Arts & Crafts

tickets and information: call 505- 9865900 or visit

Show continues and ends on the Plaza.

August 12, Monday

10 a.m.-4 p.m. The Summer Festival

10 a.m.-5 p.m. Annual Antique Indian

2-3 p.m. The New Mexico History

August 13, Tuesday

continues and ends at El Rancho de las Golondrinas.

10 a.m.-5 p.m. Annual Antique Indian Art Show continues and ends at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center.

August 8, Thursday

Auction, featuring Indian jewelry, textiles, pottery, fine arts and more, begins at the Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian, 704 Camino Lejo. Free. For information: call 505-982-4636 or visit

4 p.m. The 38th Annual Benefit

August 16, Friday 11:30 a.m. Indian Market Best of Show

10 a.m.-6 p.m. Antique Ethnographic

6-7 p.m. The New Mexico History

1-4 p.m. The Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian continues its 38th Annual Benefit Auction. Free.

Art Show continues at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center.

Museum, 113 Lincoln Ave., presents cowboy music by Mark Gardner and Rex Rideout in the museum’s auditorium. Free. For information: call 505-476-5200 or visit

August 10, Saturday 10 a.m.-4 p.m. The New Mexico

History Museum, 113 Lincoln Ave., hosts “Wild West Weekend,” with stories, songs, exhibits and more. Free with admission to the museum. For information: call 505-476-5200 or visit

10 a.m.-5 p.m. Antique Ethnographic Art

Show continues and ends at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center.

August 11, Sunday 10 a.m.-4 p.m. “Wild West Weekend”

at the New Mexico History Museum continues and ends. For information: call 505-476-5200 or visit

6-9 p.m. Whitehawk 25th Annual

Antique Indian Art Show takes over the Santa Fe Community Convention Center, (201 W. Marcy St.). For information: call 505-992-8929 or visit 8 p.m. The annual Apprentice Showcase presents fully staged opera scenes at the Santa Fe Opera, featuring the “[opera] stars of tomorrow.” Tickets are $21 for adults and $7 for children 6-17. For

Rociada, NM 87742

August 15, Thursday

Ceremony and Luncheon at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center, 201 W. Marcy St. For tickets and information: call 505-983-5220 or visit

August 9, Friday


Art Show continues at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center.

Museum, 113 Lincoln Ave., presents “Pride in the Saddle: The Story of Gay Rodeo” in the Museum’s museum’s Auditoriumauditorium. Free. For information: call 505-476-5200 or visit

6-9 p.m. Whitehawk 30th Annual Antique Ethnographic Art Show brings more than 125 ethnographic and tribal art dealers to the Santa Fe Community Convention Center, 201 W. Marcy St. For information: call 505-992-8929 or visit

Mountain Golf

5:30 p.m. Sneak preview of Indian

is the best kept secret in the Rockies. The breathtaking scenery, challenging high mountain golf course, and tranquil valley beckon visitors each year to this hideaway in the Sangre De Cristo Range of the Rockies.

Golf • Disc Golf • Hiking • Mountain Biking • Weddings Restaurant & Bar • Lodging • Home Sites | 800-733-5267 |

Market award-winning art for members only at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center. For membership and information: call 505-983-5220 or visit 7:30 p.m. Public preview of Indian

Market awards at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center. For information: call 505-983-5220 or visit

Music from Angel Fire’s 30th anniversary season of world-class

chamber music begins today and continues through Sept. 1. Chick Corea is this year’s composer-in-residence. For a complete schedule of special events, performers and venues in Angel Fire, Taos, Raton and Las Vegas (NM): call 888-377-3300 or visit

August 17, Saturday 8 a.m.-5 p.m. The 92nd Annual Indian Market, sponsored by the Southwestern Association for Indian Arts (SWAIA) and featuring artists from throughout the United States and Canada, opens on the Plaza. Free. For information: call 505-983-5220 or visit 9 a.m.-5 p.m. The annual two-day Portal

Artists Celebration features handcrafted work in the Palace of the Governors Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

1 25

PhotograPhy • oil Paintings • Bronze sculPtures


Courtyard, 113 Lincoln Ave. Traditional Indian dances, music, raffles and Indian fry bread continue throughout the day. For information: call 505-476-1141 or visit 6 p.m. SWAIA Live Auction Gala at La

Fonda Hotel on the Plaza. For tickets and information: call 983-5220 or

August 18, Sunday 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Indian Market continues

and ends on the Plaza.


(866) 995-9783 •(505) 670-6793

CimarronCita Ute Park, new Mexico

Historical downtown walking tours

August 24, Saturday Noon-9 p.m. The Santa Fe Bluegrass &

Old time Music Festival continues at the Santa Fe County Fairgrounds on Rodeo Road. For tickets and information: visit

10 a.m.-4 p.m. El Rancho de las





Noon-5 p.m. The Santa Fe Bluegrass &

Old Time Music Festival continues and ends at the Santa Fe County Fairgrounds on Rodeo Road. For tickets and information: visit

10 a.m-4 p.m. “Survival New Mexico”

Abeja • Buffalo Tracks Gallery • Claiborne Galleries • Coulter-Brooks Art & Antiques • House of Ancestors Antiques • JP Fabricman Jonathan Parks • Kania-Ferrin Gallery • Lana’s House • Gloria List Objects from Teal McKibben’s Collection • Santa Fe Scout Collection/ Dana Waldon • Sparrow Antiques • The Standard Art & Antiques Co. 136 Grant Avenue

Golondrinas hosts “Survival New Mexico.” Visitors will be able to practice outdoor skills, including building shelters, starting fires from scratch and using bows and arrows. Admission is $8 for adults, $5 for seniors and teenagers and free for children 12 and younger. For information: call 505-471-2261 or visit

August 25, Sunday

G Sh roup op

Free customer parking 1 26

May through September: Pequeno Home and Garden Tours of special

8 p.m. The Apprentice Showcase

Bluegrass & Old Time Music Festival brings local and national acts to three stages, plus a barn dance and other events, at the Santa Fe County Fairgrounds on Rodeo Road. For tickets and information: visit


Ongoing events

Celebration continues and ends in the Palace of the Governors Courtyard.

6-9 p.m. The 39th Annual Santa Fe

40 beautiful miles east of Taos on Highway 64

10 a.m.-4 p.m. “Fiesta de los Ninos: A Children’s Celebration” at El Rancho de las Golondrinas continues and ends today.

homes and high-desert gardens, sponsored by the Santa Fe Garden Club. For information, schedule and reservations: call 505-984-0022.

August 23, Friday

Heritage lodging, fine meals, special programs, private water fly fishing

September 1, Sunday

9 a.m.-5 p.m. The Portal Artists

presents fully staged opera scenes. Tickets are $21 for adults and $7 for children 6-17. For information: call 505-986-5900 or visit

Historic rancH retreat

free for children 12 and younger. For information: call 505-471-2261 or visit

continues and ends at El Rancho de las Golondrinas.

August 31, Saturday 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Games, crafts and

entertainment for the whole family highlight the annual “Fiesta de los Ninos: A Children’s Celebration” at El Rancho de las Golondrinas. Admission is $8 for adults, $5 for seniors and teenagers and

B ienv eni d os 201 3

led by New Mexico History Museum and Palace of the Governors guides, 10:15 a.m.-12:15 p.m. Monday through Friday throughout the summer; $10 for adults, children 16 and younger free with an adult. For information: call 505-476-1141. The Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian, 704 Camino Lejo, presents “Looking at Indian Art” every Saturday, beginning at 10:15 a.m. in the Case Trading Post on the lower level of the museum. For information: call 505-982-4636 or visit The Santa Fe Artists Market showcasing juried area artists is 8 a.m.2 p.m., on most every Saturday through November, 8 a.m.- 2 p.m., at the Railyard Park, Paseo de Peralta at S. Guadalupe Street, next to SITE Santa Fe. Free. For information: call 505-310-1555 or visit The Santa Fe Society of Artists presents its members’ work in the parking lot behind First National Bank on the Plaza from 9 a.m.-5:30 p.m. most weekends from May through August. For information and schedule: visit The Randall Davey Audubon Center and Sanctuary, 1800 Upper Canyon Road, conducts free weekly bird walks led by experienced birders 8-9 a.m. every Saturday during the summer. For information: call 505-983-4609. Tours of the historic Randall Davey House, 1800 Upper Canyon Road, are conducted 2-3 p.m. every Friday. Admission is $5. For information and reservations: call 505-983-4609. The Santa Fe Farmers Market 7 a.m.-noon Saturday and Tuesday

mornings in and around the farmers market building in the Santa Fe Railyard, 1607 Paseo de Peralta, at S. Guadalupe St. For information: call 505-983-4098 or visit

A shop as unique as the Museum itself In our inspiring retail shop, unique as the Museum itself, you will find something of interest for everyone—including jewelry made by local artists, and the largest selection of O’Keeffe reproductions available. In addition, the Museum Store carries a number of books about O’Keeffe, such as the award-winning Georgia O’Keeffe: Catalogue Raisonné (Yale University Press, 1999) and Georgia O’Keeffe Museum Collections (Abrams, 2007).




San Miguel County Pecos, Las Vegas and the Mora Valley


Las Vegas San Miguel Convention and Visitors Bureau V I S I T O R ’S G U I D E VA C AT I O N P L A N N E R


L a s Ve g a s N e w M e x i c o . c o m Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 1 27

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The Art of Dining

OFF TO THE ORTIZ Kathleen Frank Oil 49.5 x 49.5 Inches

Join us in our galleries and sculpture gardens


Wine spectator and four diamond awarded restaurant Tasting with art and history tours every Friday Featuring New Mexico Chef of the Year Carmen Rodriguez and CURATOR SARA EYESTONE

The Patio

santa fe’s best outdoor dining and entertainment

historic Staab Bar

your first and last stop to canyon road Book online at 855-274-LAPO (5276) • 330 East Palace Avenue Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

1 29

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Lucero Rd

1:00PM-3:00PM - 17 Plaza Del Corazon - An adobe jewel box, flagstone floors, plastered interior walls, four kiva fireplaces, beautiful ceiling treatments in every room & the magical location overlooking the lake and the two finishing holes $650,000. MLS 201300262. (2 br, 3 ba, Las Campanas Drive to Plaza del Corazon turn left. The home is on the left. This is the Nambe Casita.) Suzy Eskridge 505-310-4116 Santa Fe Properties. 1:00PM-4:00PM - 7 Sendero Centro, Club Casitas, Las Campanas - Sweeping golf course/lake views! Main residence + private guest casita - Club Casitas area. Newly finished/never occupied. Large kitchen. High end finishes throughout. No steps. $1,295,000. MLS 201300298. ((Main entrance to Las Campanas Clubhouse). Clubhouse Drive, left at Casitas to Plaza Del Corazon, left on Sendero Centro. First house on left.) Nancy Lehrer 505490-9565 Bell Tower Properties, LLC.




Camerada Loop


N-28 2:30PM-5:00PM - 6 Vista de la Vida - Luxury 4549 sqft home ideal for guests and entertaining includes 3 BR/4 BA, office, family/media room, fitness center & workshop. Wide plank Nortic pine & travertine stone floors, vigas, 4 fireplaces. $1,150,000. MLS 201301256. (Camino La Tierra, right on Fin del Sendero. Right on Lluvia de Oro, right on Bella Loma. Right on Vista de Esperanza, left on Vista de La Vida. House is on the left.) Matt Desmond 505-670-1289 Santa Fe Properties.


1:30PM-4:30PM - 3 Campo Rancheros - Stunning 5536 sq ft Western Mountain-style home in the Estancias, built by Roger Hunter with Spectacular Jemez and Sangre de Cristo mountain views. Pitched roof, stone/ wood finishes, entry rotunda. $1,495,000. MLS 201300813. (599 - rt @ Camino La Tierra, 2 miles rt @ first Y, rt @ second Y after Parkside Drive (do NOT go under the Bridge). Stay on Camino La Tierra, past Trailhead, rt @ Campo Rancheros.) Tim Galvin 505-795-5990 Sotheby’s International Realty.


Flip through the print version of home Real Estate Guide on your tablet or computer.

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1:00PM-4:00PM - 19 Camino De Colores/Las M e l o d i a s - Style and value are now available in Las Campanas. Each of the 22 developed lots are sited to maximize panoramic views. Each home is quality constructed; choose from 5 floor plans. $434,000. MLS 201201818. (From 599, exit off on Camino La Tierra (Las Campanas), follow signage to Las Melodias, make a right at Paseo Aragon (at gate contact Realtor), make a right onto Camino de Colores. Model home on left.) Gary Bobolsky 505-470-0927 Sotheby’s International Realty.

1:00PM-4:00PM - 14 Rising Moon, Las Campanas Magnificent Sangre de Cristo views! Beautiful, well constructed "adobe" home! 3BR/4BA/3767’ with multiple patios/portals. Versatile floor plan with a few interior steps. 2.42 AC $975,000. MLS 201301196. (Las Campanas Drive, left on Koshari, 2nd left on Rising Moon, #14 on left.) Tom Shaw, Host 512-7555270 Bell Tower Properties, LLC.

12:00PM-5:00PM - 709 Luna Vista - Open Fri-Mon. Stop by and we’ll show you the details of our quality construction at Piñon Ridge. Address is model home not for sale. Poplar floor plan available. 254,900 $254,900. (Take 599 Bypass, exit onto Ridge Top Road and head north. Turn right on Avenida Rincon, follow around to Camino Francisca, turn right on Luna Vista. Follow signs to open house.) Carmen Flores 505-699-4252 Homewise, Inc.

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220 SHELbY ST. SANTA FE, NM 87501 505-983-3030 WWW.PINKOYOTE.COM


Bienvenidos 2013 Summer Guide to Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico  

Bienvenidos 2013 Summer Guide to Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

Bienvenidos 2013 Summer Guide to Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico  

Bienvenidos 2013 Summer Guide to Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico