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Water: play, praise, conserve A trio of nature writers New restaurants & romantic bars Day trips: High Road, Jemez Loop, Las Vegas

T HE SANTA FE NE W ME XICA N w w n ta f en ew m exi c a n .c om




Antiques & Art Auction R.G. MUNN Auctioneers

Scheduled conveniently before and after the SHOW THURSDAY AUGUST 7TH Preview 12PM-6:30PM Auction Starts at 7PM


Preview throughout the show Auction Starts at 10:00AM


16 th


400+ objects exclusively offered for sale from the collections of our fellow dealers.


Thank you to our members and friends who donated auction items to benefit PBS!



A portion of the proceeds from the GSW Collectors Cache will go to KNME-



Full Download/Printable Auction Catalog Available in JULY!!

Proceeds from Sneak Preview Benefit KNME -

MORE INFO (505) 255-4054

Register for viewing and bidding at

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


Santa Fe's Playground RATED


Listen closely…. That’s the sound of winning flowing through 61,000 sq. ft. of Vegas-style gaming action, all within the heart of the Majestic Southwest. With over 1,200 slot machines, 18 gaming tables, a plush, friendly poker room and weekly slot and table tournaments, we’re Santa Fe’s playground and we’re waiting for you! Stay the weekend and experience Buffalo Thunder Resort & Casino’s unique Santa Fe accommodations that were designed with your ultimate comfort and luxury in mind.

BuffaloThunderResoRt.COM • 877-Thunder

30 Buffalo thundeR tRail santa fe, nM






Open Daily 11 a.m. to Sunset n daily m to sunset.

belt buckles + jewelry + gifts 111 old santa fe trail | santa fe, nm 87501 505.986.9115 |

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


Will Wilson

Through April 19, 2015

A survey of projects including AIR CIPX AIR WEAVE

Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian, 704 Camino Lejo Santa Fe, NM 87505 Open daily 10-5 • Free admission • Donations appreciated Made possible in part by the City of Santa Fe Arts Commission and the 1% Lodgers’ Tax; New Mexico Arts, a division of the Department of Cultural Affairs and the National Endowment for the Arts; and several private donors.




Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian

704 Camino Lejo, Museum Hill, Santa Fe, NM 87505 505-982-4636 or 1-800-607-4636



Case Trading Post Museum Shop Offering the Unique in Traditional and Contemporary Native American Art Open Daily: 10:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.

Elizabeth Manygoats

Mark Tahbo

Nathan Youngblood

Perry Shorty

Mavasta Honyouti

Teri Greeves

Something for everyone! The Case offers work at a variety of price points.

Visit us today or shop online at

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico




Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian

Wheelwright Museum

704 Camino Lejo, Museum Hill, Santa Fe, NM 87505 505-982-4636 or 1-800-607-4636




jewelry, pottery, textiles, baskets, and folk art

Thursday, August 21 Silent Auction and Live Auction Preview 4:00 p.m. – 6:00 p.m.

Friday, August 22 Collectors’ Table 10:00 a.m. Live Auction Preview 10:30 a.m. – 12:30 p.m. Live Auction 1:00 p.m. – 4:00 p.m.

Catered lunch available. Offsite parking and free shuttle from St. John’s United Methodist Church at Old Pecos Trail and Cordova Road.

Funded in Part by a Gift from



CAN YOU SAY road trip? CAN YOU SAY road trip? travel our

ENCHANTING travel NEW MEXICO ourart trails!  ENCHANTING NEW MEXICO art trails! new mexico fiber arts trails  | A Guide to Rural Fiber Arts Destinations new mexico fiber  arts trails A Guide to Rural Fibervistas Arts Destinations artistic and|treasures

Fire and Cimarron | Studios & Galleries from Taos Canyon east to Angel artistic vistasand treasures Studios & Galleries from Taos Canyon east way to Angel Fire and Cimarron ancient arts trail| Artisans along Route 53: Gallup to Zuni to Grants | ancient way  arts trail Artisans along Route 53: Gallup to Zuni to&Grants | trails rails | Arts and Heritage in Valencia County trails & rails Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 9 Arts and Heritage in Valencia County |




City parking map


New Rio Grande del Norte National Monument beckons


City of markets cater to every interest


Three day trips: High Road, Jemez Loop, Las Vegas


Standout summer events


New restaurants entice!


Museums: A guide to what’s up in Santa Fe


Most romantic bars in the City Different


The River Trail


Small town farmers markets


Conserving water — A user’s guide


Good meat = good eats


The generosity of water


Three writers on nature: Nichols, Crawford and deBuys







Gene Peach

Robin Martin

creative director Deborah Villa 505-986-3027 magazine editor Daniel Gibson copy editors Deborah Paddison, Kris Ota

advertising director Heidi Melendrez 505-986-3007 marketing director Monica Taylor 505-995-3888

Elspeth Hilbert, Jeana Francis, Joan Scholl advertising layout Rick Artiaga

Art Trujillo, 505-995-3852 Vince Torres, 505-995-3830 Mike Flores, 505-995-3840 Wendy Ortega, 505-995-3892 Matthew Ellis, 505-995-3844


Deborah Villa

Ginny Sohn EDITOR

Ray Rivera




Acequias nurture both land and customs



The melting Sangres: A shrinking snowpack

100 Valles Caldera’s human face


Water for the river — what a concept!

105 Mountain biking galore


Galleries present jam-packed summer schedule

108 Avanyu: A Pueblo portent of water

86 Three free, live music series


Santa Cruz and Nambé Lake

Summer Calendar 2014

89 Backstage at The Santa Fe Opera 92







technology director Michael Campbell

operations director Al Waldron assistant production director Tim Cramer prepress manager Dan Gomez press manager Larry Quintana packaging manager Brian Schultz

circulation manager Michael Reichard distribution coordinator Reggie Perez

digital development Natalie Guillén

office: 202 E. Marcy St. hours: 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday-Friday advertising information: 505-995-3852 delivery: 505-986-3010, 800-873-3372 for copies of this magazine, call 505-428-7622 or email

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico








1 inch = 900 feet














1st Judicial District Court





















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C. SANTA FE COMMUNITY CONVENTION CENTER 119 S. Federal Place Bi-level underground parking garage includes 522 spaces (13 disabled spaces) Hours: Monday through Saturday, 6 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Sunday, 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Rates: $2/hour; $10 maximum **














Santa Fe Pick-up Route

Santa Fe Pickup Stop






Point of Interest

Museum of Contemporary Native Arts

Palace of the Governor's




Updated May 201 3 - C ity of San ta Fe GIS Division

* Facility closes one hour earlier between November and May. ** Rates vary during special events.

H. RAILYARD PARKING Camino de la Familia and Paseo de Peralta Surface parking includes 675 spaces Hours: Open 24 hours / 7 days week Rates: $1/hour

G. CANYON ROAD LOT 777 Canyon Road Surface lot includes 50 spaces (2 disabled spaces) Hours: Open 24 hours / 7 days week Lot serviced by pay and display machine Rates: $2/hour; $10 maximum


ric Ca ny o nR o ad



F. ARCHDIOCESE LOT 251 E. Alameda Street Surface lot includes 174 spaces (5 disabled spaces) Hours: Open 24 hours / 7 days week. Lot serviced with 3 paystations Rates: $2/hour; $10 maximum (Lot accommodates RVs and buses for an additional fee)


Santa Fe Pick-up shuttles run every 20 minutes (pending traffic and weather conditions) E PMonday through Friday - 6:30 am to 6:30 pm ALA Saturday - 7:30 am to 6:30 pm E ALAM CE ED A No service on Sunday. AV ST E

North Railyard & Park

Downtown area

Public Access Parking Lot


New Mexico History D R Museum RK



Public Access Parking Garage

Parking Facilities



New Mexico Museum of Art





Plaza Park Detail



His to

Santa Fe Rive




E. CATHEDRAL LOT 215 Cathedral Place Surface lot includes 172 spaces (7 disabled spaces) Hours: Open 24 hours / 7 days week. Lot serviced by 2 paystations Rates: $2/hour; $10 maximum














Museum of Contemporary Native Arts









B. SANDOVAL GARAGE 216 W. San Francisco Street Multi-level aboveground parking garage includes 404 spaces (8 disabled spaces) Hours: Monday through Saturday, 6 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 7 a.m. to 11 p.m.* Rates: $2/hour; $10 maximum **


















D. WATER STREET LOT 100 E. Water Street Surface lot includes 156 spaces (4 disabled spaces) Hours: Monday through Saturday, 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.* Rates: $2/hour; $10 maximum















Georgia O'Keeffe Museum


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A. RAILYARD GARAGE 503 Camino de la Familia Tri-level underground parking garage includes 404 spaces (15 disabled spaces) Hours: Open daily, 6 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Rates: $2/hour; $5.00 maximum







Georgia O'Keeffe Museum



















El Museo Cultural de Santa Fe


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S a Ra nt a i ly Fe ar d




















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June 6th, July 4th, August 1st, 5:00-7:30 pm June 6th, July 4th, August 1st, 5:00-7:30 pm


Downtown Museum District


ENJOY AN EVENING IN THE HEART OF DOWNTOWN SANTA FE Discover the heart, and Art, of Santa Fe’s distinguished Downtown Museum District, a diverse group of galleries and renowned museums including New Mexico Museum of Art, Palace of the Governors, New Mexico History Museum, and Georgia O’Keeffe Museum. Participating galleries are open until 7:30, museums until 7:00.


There’s always something new to experience where contemporary culture meets 400 years of history.

VERVE GALLERY Artist or Tagline

PATINA GALLERY Soul-Stirring Works®

LITTLE BIRD at LORETTO Artist or Tagline

Photo: Ivan Barnett


CASWECK GALLERY Artist or Tagline

Explore museums, museums, galleries, galleries, restaurants, restaurants, bars, bars, boutiques boutiques and and hotels hotels Explore within a 4-block radius, and plenty of parking. COME JOIN US! within a 4-block radius, and plenty of parking. Come join us!

BLUE RAIN GALLERY Artist or Tagline

MANITOU GALLERY Artist or Tagline

GALLERY Artist or Tagline

GALLERY Artist or Tagline

city ofmarkets BY A R I N M C K E N N A | P H OTOS BY G E N E P E AC H

Santa Fe is one of America’s most festival-filled cities, with a special event occurring almost every weekend throughout the summer. Here’s a look at some of the best.

TRADITIONAL SPANISH MARKET This event is not only a place to purchase Spanish Colonial-style art by contemporary artists; it also offers a chance to learn more about New Mexico’s rich Hispanic culture and history. Artists are required to adhere to traditional techniques and materials, even in the new Innovations Within Tradition category. The weekend includes music and dance, and a variety of events are scheduled throughout the week preceding market. Expect some new activities this year. The market is July 26−27 on the Santa Fe Plaza. Free. For additional information on Spanish Market Week events and memberships to the Spanish Colonial Arts Society, call 982-2226 or go to



The sister to Traditional Spanish Market showcases New Mexican Hispanic artists creating contemporary work. The market features nearly 300 artists working in a wide range of mediums, including painting, printmaking, sculpture, photography, furniture, jewelry, ceramics and weaving. It is organized and run by a 12-artist committee.

The largest and most prestigious Native arts market in the world features more than 1,100 juried artists from more than 220 U.S. and Canadian tribes. The market attracts some of the nation’s best artists, with work ranging from traditional indigenous arts to contemporary mediums. The run-up to market, Indian Market Week, is filled with Native film, literature, music, fashion and visual arts events — most free and open to the public.

Preview Night Party is July 25 at the Santa Fe Convention Center. The market is July 26−27 on Lincoln Avenue; all events are free. Call 331-5162 or visit

INTERNATIONAL FOLK ART MARKET | SANTA FE The largest international folk art market in the world features more than 150 master artists from more than 54 countries. Artists undergo a rigorous jurying process, insuring high quality, and authentic artworks are for purchase. Artists take home 90 percent of their earnings, which creates long-lasting benefits for the artists, their families and their communities. The festival

includes ethnic food, demonstrations, international performances and educational activities. The opening night party is on July 11; market dates are July 12−13. Free shuttles from designated parking to Museum Hill. For prices, tickets and information call 992-7600 or go to



Prestigious awards luncheon and previews take place on Aug. 22. The outdoors market runs Aug. 23−24 on the Santa Fe Plaza. Free. For tickets and information, call 983-5220 or visit

on View through septeMber 14

georgia o’keeFFe and ansel adaMs: THe HAwAi‘i PiCTUres

abiquiu Views images : Georgia O’Keeffe, White Bird of Paradise, 1939. Oil on canvas, 19 x 16 in. Georgia O’Keeffe Museum. Gift of Jean H. McDonald. © Georgia O’Keeffe Museum. Ansel Adams, Leaves, Foster Gardens, Honolulu, Hawaii, 1957-1958. Gelatin silver print, 13 x 9 7/8 in. Center for Creative Photography, University of Arizona. Georgia O’Keeffe, Untitled (Road from Abiquiu), undated. Photographic print, 6 1/4 x 4 5/8 in. Gift of The Georgia O’Keeffe Foundation. © Georgia O’Keeffe Museum 2006-06-1372. Georgia O’Keeffe, Mesa and Road East II, 1952. Oil on canvas, 26 x 36 in. Georgia O’Keeffe Museum. Gift of The Georgia O’Keeffe Foundation (2006.05.235). © Georgia O’Keeffe Museum.

217 Johnson street, santa Fe, nM 875o1 = 5o5.946.1ooo =



Season: May 24−Oct. 19 888-286-2737 or

September 24–28

Conductors on the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad often announce, “This is history you’re riding in. It’s a living, breathing museum.” Passengers are transported back through time by the shrill train whistles, the power of lumbering coal-powered steam engines and the journey over trestles and bridges traversed by the Denver & Rio Grande railroad more than a century ago. The 64-mile excursion between Chama, N.M., and Antonito, Colo., summits 10,015-foot Cumbres Pass and skirts the 800-foot deep Toltec Gorge. The pace is slow enough to savor extraordinary vistas, wildflower meadows, golden aspen groves or sightings of deer, elk or antelope. Specialty trains include the Cinder Bear Express for young train enthusiasts and the Sunset Train. Chama or Antonito are both a 2.5 hours drive northwest of Santa Fe.

The Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta features the culinary artistry of Santa Fe’s top chefs paired with wines from more than 90 national wineries. Events include wine dinners, wine seminars, cooking demos, guest chef luncheons and tours, the Gruet Golf Classic and the Grand Tasting on Sept. 27.


BEHIND ADOBE WALLS July 22 & 29 Cost: $75 For reservations call West Wind Travel, 984-0022 The Santa Fe Garden Club celebrates its 75th annual Behind Adobe Walls, Santa Fe’s oldest and most prestigious home and garden tour. The tour offers access to private gardens and homes. Proceeds benefit projects such as the Santa Fe Botanical Garden, school educational programs and funding for environmental and conservation groups.



334 Los Pinos Road (in La Cienega, 20 minutes south of Santa Fe) 471-2261 or Northern New Mexico’s fall colors include golden aspen and turquoise skies, as well as watercolors, oils, bronze patinas and natural dye pigments. Artist studio tours abound from September through Thanksgiving weekend, with a couple of early birds in spring and summer.

New Mexico’s Spanish Colonial and Territorial periods spring to life at El Rancho de las Golondrinas, Santa Fe’s living history museum, especially during festival weekends. Spring Festival & Children’s Fair and Harvest Festival are the signature events, highlighting Spanish village activities such as sheep shearing in the spring and crushing grapes and stringing chile ristras in the fall. Other events include ¡Viva Mexico! Celebration, Santa Fe Fiber Arts Festival, Herb & Lavender Fair, Santa Fe Wine Festival, Santa Fe Renaissance Fair and more. 16


June 18−21 3237 Rodeo Road For information 471-4300 or For tickets: 988-1234 or The 65th annual Rodeo de Santa Fe kicks off with a parade through downtown Santa Fe at 11 a.m. June 14. Gates open at 5 p.m. June 18−21, with Mutton Bustin’ at 6:30 p.m. and the Grand Entry at 7 p.m. The event is one of the top 60 PRCA rodeos in the nation, featuring world champion cowboys among its more than 500 contestants. The four-day event features live performances, a carnival midway, concessions and a dance on closing night. — ARIN MCKENNA

/ 2014

/ A DAy in the Life Works by Holly Roberts 05 / 30 - 06 / 21 / new MeDiA Works by Sophie Kahn, Esteban Garcia, Jeremy Rotsztain, Astrid Toha and Sandy Kessler Kaminski 06 / 13 - 07 / 05 / the Art of technoLogy: A new erA of interActive creAtivity A talk featuring representatives from the Carnegie Museum of Art, Andy Warhol Museum, Carnegie Mellon University and the Pittsburgh Technology Council 06 / 14 1PM

/ coMpLicAtions Works in glass by Matthew Szösz / BywAys Paintings by Damian Stamer 06 / 27 - 07 / 19 / iMpActs! . 勢み Japanese Contemporary Art preview exhiBition 07 / 25 5-7pM / jeweLry Yazzie Johnson and Gail Bird 08 / 21 4-6pM / iMpActs! . 勢み Japanese Contemporary Art, grAnD opening 08 / 22 5-7pM

zane bennett contemporary art 435 S GUADAlUPE ST, SAnTA FE, nM 87501 T: 505-982-8111 F: 505-982-8160 zAnEBEnnETTGAllERY.CoM IMAGE: RoY lICHTEnSTEIn, iMperfect Diptych (FRoM THE IMPERFECT SERIES), 21-ColoR WooDCUT, SCREEnPRInT AnD CollAGE, 1998, 57 7/8 x 93 3/4

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico




Georgia O’Keeffe White Bird of Paradise, 1939 Oil on canvas 19 x 16 (48.3 x 40.6) Georgia O’Keeffe Museum Gift of Jean H. McDonald © Georgia O’Keeffe Museum


Donald Woodman Waning Moon, ca. 1970s Archival pigment print, 5 x 5 inches Palace of the Governors Photo Archives, Photo Legacy Project.

217 Johnson St., 946-1000 or Georgia O’Keeffe and Ansel Adams: The Hawaii Pictures is the first exhibit to bring together works created in Hawaii by these iconic artists. Georgia O’Keeffe: Abiquiu Views features paintings inspired by O’Keeffe’s Abiquiu, N.M., home, with a reconstruction of the view from her studio and her original art materials and tools arranged on a work table of her own design. Both on display through Sept. 14.

POETICS OF LIGHT PINHOLE PHOTOGRAPHY moving quietly from behind the lens to placing himself in its focus.

NEW MEXICO HISTORY MUSEUM 113 Lincoln Ave. 476-5200 or

Poetics of Light: Pinhole Photography (through March 29, 2015) features approximately 200 pinhole photography images — some whimsical and some scientific — including landscapes, multiple images, zone plates and portraits. The exhibit includes a selection of cameras, one dating back to the 1880s. Programming activities include makeyour-own-camera opportunities. Donald Woodman: Transformed by New Mexico (through Oct. 12) follows Woodman’s photographic vision as he progresses from capturing stars and clouds to exploring sandy soil and majestic peaks and finally his own interior life,

Alain Brusco Untitled, Belgium, undated Palace of the Governors Photo Archives, Pinhole Resource Collection



Toys and Games: A New Mexico Childhood (May 25–Feb. 1, 2015) includes gems such as a petite piano, a rocking horse and other small 19th-century toys. Painting the Divine: Images of Mary in the New World (June 29−March 29, 2015) features paintings of the 17th and 18th centuries donated to the Palace of the Governors by the International Institute of Iberian Colonial Art. The exhibition deepens our understanding of the ways Spanish colonial life evolved in Mexico and South America and includes the distinctive hybrid works created by New Mexican artists, combining standard Christianity with a unique regional aesthetic.



of santa fe


Santo Domingo Pueblo necklace Turquoise, coral, jet, spiny oyster, motherof-pearl, silver and fiber Hopi earrings Turquoise, abalone, cottonwood and cotton cordage

Re pre se n tin g He n r y Begue l in , Num e ro 10 & O f f i c i n e C re at i ve 725 Canyon Rd. • 505-982-9499 • Re pre se n tin g He n r y Begue l in , Num e ro 10 & O f f i c i n e C re at i ve 725 Canyon Rd. • 505-982-9499 •



708-710 Camino Lejo, 476-1250 or Turquoise, Water, Sky: The Stone and Its Meaning (through March 2016) highlights the museum’s extensive collection of Southwestern turquoise jewelry, illustrating how the stone was used and its deep significance to the people of the region. The exhibit covers the stone’s geology, mining, history and questions of authenticity and value.

Music, dance, film, theater— over 200 events each year, in the heart of Santa Fe.

Footprints: The Inspiration and Influence of Allan Houser (Aug. 3–June 1, 2015) honors the renowned artist and teacher’s 100th birthday with an outdoor sculpture exhibition featuring works by Houser and sculptors who were inspired or influenced by him. 211 West San Francisco Street 505-988-1234

Angie Reano Owen Santo Domingo Pueblo Contemporary cuff 3.5 by 2.5 inches Red Mountain turquoise inlaid on shell


Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico



706 Camino Lejo, 476-1200 or The Wooden Menagerie: Made in New Mexico celebrates the New Mexican Hispano folk tradition of animal wood carving, with examples of whimsical animals from early 20th-century artists through present-day carvers.


Santa Fe Botanical Garden at Museum Hill Summer: Open Everyday 9am–5pm 715 Camino Lejo | 505-471-9103

Cats : Left to right Felipe Benito Archuleta Cheetah, ca. 1970s Wood, fiber, paint Ron Archuleta Rodríguez Bobcat, 1990 Wood, fiber, paint Gift of Diane and Sandy Besser

Brasil and Arte Popular (through Aug. 10) highlights Brazil’s vibrant folk traditions through more than 350 pieces of art, including woodblock prints, colorful folk sculptures, toys, puppets and religious art, and videos of festival dramas with dance, music and costumes.

Felipe Benito Archuleta Cheetah, ca. 1970 Wood, paint Felipe Benito Archuleta Lynx, 1977 Wood, fiber, paint Courtesy of Davis and Christine Mather

Ron Archuleta Rodríguez Armadillo, 2010 Wood, metal, paint Courtesy of Robert and Kathy Horowitz

Collection Museum of International Folk Art PHOTO BLAIR CLARK

Cottons, Batiks, Orientals, Southwest Fabrics, Silks, Classes & Sewing Supplies Open 7 Days Mon.-Sat.,Thurs. Thurs.10-7 10-7pm,pm, Open 7 Daysa aWeek: Week:10-5:30 10-5:30 Mon.-Sat., Sun.Sun. 1-5 1-5 pm pm


We Are Here!

3018-A Cielo Court Santa Fe, NM 87507 505-473-3747


107 W. Palace Ave., 476-5072 or

Spotlight on Gustave Baumann draws from the museum’s extensive collection of works by one of New Mexico’s most treasured artists, best known for his woodblock prints of Southwestern landscapes and traditions. Through Dec 30.


Natural Pet Food

807 Cerrillos Road • Santa Fe (Next to Whole Foods)

Local Color: Judy Chicago in New Mexico 1984-2014 marks Chicago’s 75th birthday as well as three decades of living and working in New Mexico. The exhibition includes large-scale public projects, smaller-scale artworks and recent works. June 6−Oct. 12.

505-992-3388 20


Gustave Baumann Study for Processional, 1930 Opaque watercolor Gift of Jane Baumann, 1979 Courtesy New Mexico Museum of Art


108 Cathedral Place 983-8900 or ARTiculations in Print (through July 31) includes works from the Crow’s Shadow Institute of the Arts collection; printbased exhibitions by Sallyann Paschall, Alex Peña, Tony Tiger, John Hitchcock and David Sloan; and a selection of prints by the late Inuk artist Kenojuak Ashevak. We Hold These Truths (May 24–July 31) features Shan Goshorn’s traditionalformed Cherokee-style baskets woven from shredded reproductions of historical documents and photos, which draw attention to Native issues such as treaty violations, stereotypes and land issues. Opening reception May 31, 4-5 p.m. Ric Gendron’s vibrantly expressionistic images chronicle his experience, memory, history, journeys and identity in Rattlebone (Aug. 15−Dec. 31 for this and exhibits noted below, with an opening on Aug. 14, 5−7 p.m.).

artists who have juried into the new Innovations Within Tradition category. These artists explore innovative ways to carry New Mexico’s traditional Hispanic arts forward. Secrets of the Symbols: The Hidden Language in Spanish Colonial Art (opens July 9) discusses signs and symbols that were part of everyday language in the colonial period but whose meaning is often lost today. The multiple layers of meaning in these images often reveal fascinating stories beyond the most obvious.


For tickets, visit


JULY 10 Opening Night Dinner | La Fonda at 6:00 p.m. 10 The New World: Music of the Americas CBSF

213 Cathedral Place, 988-8900

17 Spanish Mystics LC

The current show features pottery from the personal collections of museum volunteers and includes a number of very significant pieces. Indian Market show opens Aug. 1.

20 Spanish Mystics LC


In The Desert Never Left “The City,” Mario Martinez’ abstractions merge the influences of his Yaqui culture and the Sonoran Desert he grew up in with his current relationship to New York City’s contemporary urban environment. Alaskan artist Da-ka-xeen Mehner celebrates the lasting and profound relationship between Tlingit language and song in Saligaaw (it is loud-voiced), an installation combining handstretched drums and video projection. Courtney Leonard’s BREACH: LOG 14 explores historical ties to water and whale, imposed law and material sustainability.

1606 Paseo de Peralta 989-1199 or



750 Camino Lejo, 982-2226 or

704 Camino Lejo 982-4636 or

Window on Lima: The Beltrán-Kropp Collection from Peru (through May 27) features a gift of works collected by Pedro Gerardo Beltrán Espantoso, Peru’s ambassador to the United States from 1944 to 1945, and his wife, Miriam Kropp Beltrán.

This summer’s show features Diné (Navajo) photographer Will Wilson.

Beyond Tradition (opens May 24) highlights recent work by Spanish Market

Intimate. Timeless. Transcendent.

After a one-cycle hiatus, SITE Santa Fe relaunches its biennial exhibition series with SITElines.2014: Unsettled Landscapes (July 20–January 2015, with opening festivities July 17–19). The exhibit explores the issues, political conditions and historical narratives that inform the work of contemporary artists across North, Central and South America, illuminating the connections between representations of the land, movement across the land, and economies and resources derived from the land.

Arin McKenna has freelanced for The New Mexican and other publications since 2004. She is currently county reporter for the Los Alamos Monitor and has won state and national awards both for her writing and as former host/producer of KTRC Radio’s Art Tour Santa Fe.

19 The New World: Music of the Americas CBSF 22 A Romantic Evening with Brahms FPC 24 Spanish Mystics LC 25 The New World: Music of the Americas CBSF 26 A Romantic Evening with Brahms FPC 27 The New World: Music of the Americas CSJ* 29 Spanish Mystics LC

in Albuquerque

31 A Romantic Evening with Brahms FPC AUGUST 1 A Romantic Evening with Brahms FPC 2 The New World: Music of the Americas CBSF 5 Spanish Mystics LC 7 Mozart Requiem with Susan Graham CBSF 9 Mozart Requiem with Susan Graham CBSF 10 Mozart Requiem with Susan Graham IPC*

in Albuquerque


AUGUST 14 “You Only Sing Twice!” Gala Benefit feat. Voasis 15 Soaking up the Summer with Voasis W21 16 Soaking up the Summer with Voasis W21*

Matinee and Evening Performances

17 Soaking up the Summer with Voasis W21*

CBSF | Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis LC | Loretto Chapel FPC | First Presbyterian Church CSJ | Cathedral of St. John IPC | Immanuel Presbyterian Church W21 | Warehouse 21

2014 summerfestival

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

All concerts begin at 8:00 p.m. *Matinee performances begin at 4:00 p.m.




After decades of being co-opted for the city’s water needs, the Santa Fe River is struggling back to life; and thanks to the Santa Fe River Trail, human life is also burgeoning along its banks. Concerted efforts by the City of Santa Fe, Santa Fe County and the Santa Fe Watershed Association are revitalizing the river and the open space surrounding it. “It’s the best of the community coming together,” notes Tom Gallegos, a local tour guide and longtime volunteer with the Watershed Association. “The city and the community really care and do these kinds of things. It’s a true treasure.”

PhotograPhy • oil Paintings • Bronze sculPtures



(866) 995-9783 •(505) 670-6793

The trail stretches from Patrick Smith Park, near the intersection of Canyon Road and Alameda Street, to Frenchy’s Field on Agua Fría Street. It has become a popular thoroughfare for commuters, but it is equally inviting for those who simply want to enjoy the green space or relax at picnic tables and benches along its length. Large cottonwood trees along the trail’s upper reaches are especially inviting on a summer or fall day. This river here is bracketed by some of the city’s oldest and most striking homes (or homes converted to galleries). Alameda offers convenient parking, and side streets and bridges provide access from Canyon Road. Between Paseo de Peralta and St. Francis Drive, the trail moves through downtown Santa Fe and transforms into the Urban Park Trail, with shaded areas and greenery. Look for River Angels, carved from dead cottonwood trees by José Lucero. River-restoration efforts by the Santa Fe Watershed Association volunteers are most visible in these upper stretches. Redesigned drainages, hand-built stone catchment basins and native-species plantings have eliminated downward erosion, increased stream flow and created wildlife habitats. Gallegos was thrilled to watch a young boy catch a trout near Don Gaspar Avenue last summer. “We’ve created pools and places where water can stop and collect and seep into the ground,” he reflects. “And before you know it, in three to five years, it’s alive.” Between St. Francis and Camino Alire, broad paved paths follow both banks, with bridges providing neighborhood access. Trees are scarce, but the sunny path is inviting and open. Manta Mama and American Rocker — two monumental sculptures on loan from Chiricahua Apache artist Bob Haozous — add to the urban park atmosphere, which Gallegos calls “absolutely inviting.” Between Camino Alire and Frenchy’s Park on Agua Fría Street, the river and trail jogs away from Alameda. Residential neighborhoods cushion traffic noise, and expansive views of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains open up. The river is often dry here, but thousands of red willows planted by volunteers are thriving and catch basins stand ready to retain any drop of moisture. “It’s neat to see the changes that have taken place quietly and slowly, and to know that you’re making a lasting contribution that really matters,” Gallegos says. “I think something like that opens up something special — more creative spaces to be in.”

43 Ogo Wii Rd, Santa Fe, NM 87506

Bikeway and foot trail maps are available at bike shops around town, by calling the Santa Fe Metropolitan Planning Organization at 955-6706, or at trails_1. Additional details at 22




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. . . all at THE SANTA FE OPERA

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AN INCREDIBLE SETTING Arrive early with a tailgate supper to enjoy a spectacular sunset and mountain views. Tickets start at $32! New Mexico Residents: Ask about a special first-time offer when you call.

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FOR VISITORS While on vacation, visitors should focus on areas where they can have the greatest effect and get the most out of their precious time in the City Different: • “Navy showers” (a brief wet-down, followed by soap-down with the water off, followed by a brief rinse) not only save water, but such a short shower also gives you more time to get out and enjoy all the things New Mexico has to offer. • Shut off the faucet while you shave or brush your teeth. This is also standard Santa Fe procedure. What’s nice is that without all of that noisy and wasteful running water, visitors will experience a heightened sense of tranquility while doing the most mundane things — and that’s very Santa Fe! • In addition to vigilantly reusing your sheets and towels, the most important act a tourist can take is to report water leaks and waste. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, one drip per second can waste 3,000 gallons per year. But waste issues can’t be fixed unless people like you raise our consciousness about them. Please call 955-4222 to report any perceived problem. • One citywide regulation that all restaurant-goers will run into is that drinking water is provided to patrons of eating establishments only upon request. This is mostly a symbolic gesture designed to start a discussion about the importance of water conservation. It’s not about saving lots of water, so make sure you request water for everyone — or at least for your designated driver. Remember, you’re at altitude in a dry climate. Always stay hydrated! • The full Santa Fe experience requires at least a little hiking. If you go — and we hope you do — please stay on the trails. Topsoil is extremely limited in this brittle, arid environment, and the less we stomp all over our fragile watersheds, the more absorbent our soils will be and the less erosion we will cause. This translates into healthier arroyos, streams and rivers.

WATER CONSERVATION OFFICE The City of Santa Fe Water Conservation Office is staffed by four employees and is supported by a volunteer committee of concerned citizens. Committee meetings are held on the second Tuesday of every month, and they are open to the public. Call 955-4225 for more information and visit

BY NATE DOWNEY Before consuming this elixir of water wisdom, stop. Breathe. Drink some water. It’s hard to absorb important information if you’re dehydrated. Water is a serious challenge across the fruited plain. The Land of Enchantment happens to be in the center of a drought ranging from Texas to California, but from Florida and Georgia to West Virginia and pockets of Massachusetts, water problems exist in normally wet regions too. In most of these places, water conservation is brand new. It’s not in New Mexico. Here, saving water goes back for centuries, if not millennia. We respect water. We revere it. We love it so much. We wish we could squeeze it and bathe it in kisses. “We live in an environmentally conscious community that’s beyond conservation,” says the City of Santa Fe’s water conservation manager, Laurie Trevizo. “Our respect for water is an essential part of our identity. It’s not something we go and do. It’s how we live.” She’s right. Ours is the community that pioneered the low-flow toilet rebate. Now, communities everywhere are following our lead. “At 107 gallons per resident per day, we are a shining example of water conservation,” says a beaming Trevizo, a Houston native. “Salt Lake City uses twice that amount.” According to Trevizo, 59 of those 107 gallons per day go to indoor and outdoor residential use in Santa Fe. The remainder goes to public parks, government buildings, business and industry. This means that this low water-use figure also includes all of the water that people from out of town consume while they’re here. Whether you’re a native, transplant or a visitor, an excellent place to find water-conservation tips is at the city’s new website, www. There, you’ll find over 50 ways to save. Although they often overlap, these tips are divided into categories including indoors, outdoors, at home and at work.




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People who live here should do all of the above and then take it up a notch. • When landscaping, consider a native lawn. Kentucky bluegrass is a no-no. It’s even better to install plastic grass that requires no watering, weeding, fertilizing or mowing. The best approach to landscaping is to avoid all forms of turf and to harvest stormwater runoff from your roof and driveway. By using passive water-harvesting techniques like on-contour swales, wicks, French drains and rain gardens, you can divert this resource to the root systems of drought-tolerant trees, shrubs and perennials. • You can also follow the steps in my free book from the New Mexico Office of the State Engineer, Roof-Reliant Landscaping. It’s a peer-reviewed, stepby-step guide for designing and installing cistern systems for drought-tolerant landscapes that can be independent of any water source other than the sky. Go to • Know that rebates exist for cisterns, highefficiency clothes washers and high-efficiency toilets. These porcelain goddesses are not merely “low flow,” like the 1.6-gallon flushers that came in during the first wave of toilet rebates. The new ones use 1.28 gallons per flush or less. • Reusing your graywater (wastewater from bathroom sinks, showers and laundry) in your landscape does not require a permit as long as you harvest the resources according to New Mexico Environment Department guidelines, found at • If you’ve got a leak and you don’t know how to fix it, call the city at 955-4225. They’d be happy to help.

Nate Downey is the author of Harvest the Rain (2010) and Roof-Reliant Landscaping (2008). Since 1998, he has written a monthly column called “Permaculture in Practice” for The New Mexican. He is the president of two landscape-design firms: Santa Fe Permaculture (since 1992) serves local clients, and PermaDesign (since 2010) serves clients anywhere in the world. He can be reached at 424-4444 or

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IT’S GONNA BE A GRE AT SUMMER IN THE RAILYARD! RAILYARD PARK SUMMER MOVIE SERIES Every other Friday night at dusk June 6– August 29 June 6: Indiana Jones & the Raiders of the Lost Ark June 20: Repo Man July 4: Caddyshack July 18: Bring Your Dog to the Movie Night for Balto August 1: Milagro Beanfield War August 15: Blues Brothers August 29: Sing-along to Frozen Presented by Heath Concerts

MORE MOVIES IN THE PARK! May 24: Santa Fe Reporter’s Movies & Munchies July 12: Santa Fe Independent Film Festival Presents Rocky Horror Picture Show August 23: Native Cinema Showcase


CURRENTS 2014 NEW MEDIA FESTIVAL June 13 thru 29 / El Museo & Plaza June 13: Outdoor Video & EDM June 28: Outdoor Video & Concert Storming the Beaches with Logos in Hand Presented by Currents 2014 & Heath Concerts WORLD CUP SOCCER KICK-OFF June 16 / On the Plaza First Team USA Match Presented by NNM Soccer & Heath Concerts SALVATION ARMY FOOD CIRCUS June 21 / In the Park Music, food, fun & more Presented by Salvation Army of Santa Fe MAKE MUSIC SANTA FE June 21 / On the Plaza All Santa Fe Line-up Presented by Santa Fe Music Alliance FROM BARKS TO BACH June 28 / In the Park Santa Fe Youth Symphony Dog Show & Concert Presented by Santa Fe Youth Symphony INTERNATIONAL FOLK ART MARKET COMMUNITY CELEBRATION July 10 / In the Park Music and Folk Artists from Around the World Presented by IFAM

And More to Come! Presented by Heath Concerts



BEST OF SANTA FE July 19 / Plaza & Farmers Market Pavilion The Best of Music, Food, Drink & More Presented by SF Reporter & Heath Concerts ZOZOFEST August 29 / On the Plaza Pre-Zozobra Public Preview & Dance Party Presented by Kiwanis Club of Santa Fe BOYS & GIRLS CLUB FUN FAIR August 3 / In the Park Games & Fun for all Ages! Presented by Boys & Girls Club of Santa Fe SANTA FE REPORTER AHA FESTIVAL September 1 / On the Plaza Progressive Music & Arts Fair Presented by After Hours Alliance SANTA FE CYCLOCROSS September 20 / In the Park Cyclocross fun for all ages, music & more Presented by Santa Fe Reporter FIESTA FELA October 11 / In the Park African Art & Music Festival Presented by Afreeka Santa Fe

CONTINUING: SANTA FE FARMERS MARKET Tues 8 am –1pm / Sat 7am –12pm Farmers Market Hall & Plaza

SANTA FE ARTISTS MARKET Saturdays / 8am –1pm In the Park

RAILYARD ARTISAN MARKET Sundays /10 am– 4 pm Farmers Market Hall





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Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

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STORY BY STANLEY CRAWFORD PHOTOGRAPHY BY GENE PEACH I have always been attracted to the linear oases of streams and rivers in the arid Southwest. As a native Southern Californian, I grew up beside a tiny stream — a rarity in San Diego County. Our little family stream was, in fact, seepage from a riprap reservoir where Colorado River water was stored, and so it was in effect a distant extension of the Colorado itself. No wonder, then, that I eventually ended up settling next to the Rio Embudo in Northern New Mexico. And no wonder that I was to spend the next 40 years deriving much of my livelihood from its waters as a market farmer. Water is often about expectation. In the eastern U.S., one is frequently waiting for rain or snow to stop, for the floods to come, for waters to subside. In the west, one is always waiting for it to start raining or snowing, waiting for the arroyos to fill, waiting for the streams and rivers to return to “normal,” and in the spring, waiting for the acequias to start running again. A dry acequia channel in the fall after the water has been shut off looks almost natural, not quite constructed, ribbons of silt and gravel meandering through it, banks overgrown with grasses and willows. A spring ditch crew, slicing off the dry grasses with sharpened shovel blades and cleaning up the banks, renews the channel into a trim, sinuous form wandering through a landscape of brush and trees, improbably high up on a bank, in a way that evokes artist Andy Goldsworthy’s constructions of leaves and stones, twigs and branches. Then the water flows, improbably, down the improbable channel, led by a leaf- and twig- and foam-clogged tongue, as tended by a mayordomo and an assistant or two with pitchforks and rakes. I don’t know how many times — at least 40-some — I have walked into the house and called out to RoseMary, “The ditch is running again!” It’s always a strange, even magical moment. On our south-facing side of the river, the Acequia del Bosque is often the first to be dug out in March, because its banks are mostly or completely thawed, and because our south-sloping fields are the first to need irrigation after a dry winter. Invariably I climb the steps up the ditch bank and inspect the new flow, richly brown with silt, but not expecting to see anything new. More like greeting an old friend. If I have been home during the winter and have gone to the effort, the three main feeder ditches will be ready to receive the water, though not the drip system, which must wait for the water to flow much clearer so as not immediately to clog the filter and the drip lines themselves. And if I have cleaned out the feeder ditches well, the water will go where it’s supposed to, not all over the backyard, creating mud bogs and small ponds. After a good wet winter, increasingly a rarity, the Rio Embudo and other Sangre de Cristo-fed streams will rise through April and May and crest in June, their winter-clear waters becoming muddier and muddier. More expectation: How high will the water go? Or maybe there will be no noticeable spring runoff at all, which is increasingly the case. Will the monsoon season hold off beyond its once-usual start date of July? Will the streams dry up again? As people greet each other throughout the days, at the village post offices and stores, gas stations, churches and schools, invariably there will be allusions to, comments on and wishes about the weather, the possibilities of rain and snow, of drought, the movement of the jet stream, the effect of this or that Gulf hurricane, el Niño o la Niña o Nada. New Mexicans are experts in talking about the lack of weather. After a month of perfectly blue sky, the arrival of a small cloud or two can set off wild speculation. With rising waters, or even without, vegetation finally leafs out, flowers and then gives shade. I suspect those who live in dry, arid climates are far more 32

Dawn on the Rio Grande between Pilar and Taos Junction sensitive to the joys of swimming and boating than those in climates where immersing oneself in a river or lake is only experiencing a slight increase in humidity. This may, in part, account for New Mexico’s unusually high rate of drowning. The best way, I find, to get through a hot afternoon is to go sit in the cool, often frigid, waters of the Embudo, either too shallow or too fast for actual swimming; or drive over to the nearby Rio Grande and plunge into its warmer and deeper waters; or head north for the primitive camping area of Heron Lake,


generosity THE


a reservoir near Chama not particularly notable for its herons, having been named after engineer James B. Heron. In countless small villages and river valleys of Northern New Mexico, water is the stuff of community. As mayordomo (ditch boss) and then as comisionado (commissioner) of two acequias in Dixon, through managing the flow of water from property to property, organizing ditch cleaning crews, going from house to house to collect ditch dues, and meeting with commissioners and mayordomos

of the other seven acequias of the valley during times of water shortage, I came to know and become part of the community in which my wife and I settled and raised our two children. In these experiences, I received far more than I gave. It might have something to do with what I could call the generosity of water. Stanley Crawford writes and farms in the Embudo Valley. He is the author of numerous books, including Mayordomo: Chronicle of an Acequia in Northern New Mexico. See story on page 70.

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


NEWEST NATIONAL MONUMENT PROTECTS RARE ECOSYSTEMS AND PROVIDES ENDLESS RECREATIONAL ADVENTURES S TORY BY K R I S T E N DAV E N P O RT PHOTOG R A P H Y BY G E N E P E AC H Standing on top of a 3-million-year-old volcanic cone in northern Taos County, there’s not much for the eye to see but sagebrush, piñon pine, rugged rock, gnarly juniper and the distant white peaks of Colorado. It’s dry and the wind whistles high. The landscape is lonely. Someone from wetter and greener climates might say it’s desolate. Thanks to a stroke of the presidential pen last year, this high-desert landscape will remain this way, mostly empty of human signs. The Rio Grande del Norte National Monument, signed into existence in March 2013, is one of the nation’s most recent — and biggest — national monuments. That declaration protects the arid high-mountain Taos Plateau from any development — no fracking, no drilling, no mining, no suburbs, no wind farms, no new roads — and ensures that rain and wind will be the primary factors shaping this region for centuries to come. And, it protects the existing myriad human uses of this land, from collecting piñon nuts to rafting. Encompassing 242,555 acres in Taos and Rio Arriba counties, the new monument puts under federal protection nearly a fifth of all the land in



NATIONAL MONUMENT Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


View south from Rio Grande Gorge Bridge.

Above, View of Rio Grande Gorge from south of Taos. Below, Rio Grande Gorge Bridge on U.S. 64 just west of Taos. Taos County itself, making Taos County one of the potentially wildest lands in the country, says Bill Tefft, a manager of public lands information at the Bureau of Land Management. The BLM is managing the national monument and is currently soliciting public input about how to manage the lands within it.

UTE MOUNTAIN Ute Mountain tops out at 10,093 feet, the highest point in the monument. There is no official trail up to the top; nonetheless, with wide-open vistas and easy climbing, it’s a relatively simple hike to the top following your own sense of direction. (Several

groups, including the BLM Taos Field Office, will be leading a few hikes up Ute Mountain this summer for those seeking guidance.) From the top, you can see most of the new monument, including its most prominent feature, the Rio Grande Gorge, a deep canyon extending from the Colorado state line 76 miles south to Alcalde. “That is really the most dramatic feature of the new monument,” says Tefft. “We’ve got the whole gorge included. There’s river rafting, fly-fishing, hot springs and the highest suspension bridge in the country.” The national monument designation does not affect existing roads in the area, most of which are dirt or gravel tracks crisscrossing the wide 36


View of Rio Grande near Pilar. plateau west of the gorge to U.S. 285. Hunting, fishing, hiking, biking, and collecting piñon nuts and firewood are all still allowed out there. In fact, with the right car, a vehicle is not the worst way to view the new Rio Grande del Norte National Monument. Just be careful. “It’s very remote,” Tefft says. “The area west of the gorge is accessible by dirt road, but you need a good vehicle — not necessarily a four-wheel-drive, but something with clearance. I’ve been back up in there for two days and never saw another person. That means there’s no one to help you if you get a flat tire or get stuck in mud or snow. So if you’re going to go, be prepared.”

FLORA, FAUNA AND GEOLOGY The monument also includes some critical wildlife habitat and is home to large herds of pronghorn and elk. It contains extensive archaeological sites with elaborate petroglyphs, several old volcanoes, and thousands of acres of big sagebrush plateau. Those expanses of big sagebrush — Artemisia tridentata, actually a relative of the sunflower — are quite possibly the best place on the planet to be during a summer rainstorm, when you can breathe in the incredible woodsy-sweet scent of sagebrush when it gets wet. Certainly the great river is the key recreational feature of the new monument, but geologically

it is only a small part of the Taos Plateau and the inactive volcanoes that rise out of it. Nearby domed San Antonio Mountain, which arches gently to the west of Ute Mountain, is also an extinct volcano, as are several other nearby peaks included in the monument: Cerro de la Olla, Cerro Montoso and Cerro del Aire. This area of Northern New Mexico has been quite geologically active, as the Rio Grande actually flows along a continental rift — the Rio Grande Rift — where North America is ever so slowly pulling apart. (Yes, we might be two continents in a few million years.) That rift also created volcanic activity in the area, some relatively recently. Most of the volcanoes in the region were active Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


between 1.8 and 4 million years ago, and the Rio Grande itself cuts through millions of years of geological history. That history can be seen in the canyon walls, making it worth your while to ask about your river guide’s geological knowledge of the region before you schedule a rafting trip. As the canyon crosses into New Mexico from Colorado, it is about 150 feet deep, but at points along its next 100-mile course to the south, the gorge is as deep as 800 feet. Just north of Taos, you can hop into the river at John Dunn Bridge to run the Class 5 whitewater challenge known as the “Taos Box” — New Mexico’s biggest whitewater — but many stretches of the río are peaceful or dotted with riffles and little rapids, perfectly suited to kids

and those who might be more interested in sightings of river otters and bighorn sheep than tumbling over burly volcanic rocks. There are more than 100 springs (cold, warm and hot) along the Rio Grande, and several well-known hot springs are in the canyon bottom near Taos. Both Manby (Stagecoach) Hot Springs and Black Rock Springs are within a quick walk from the rim down into the gorge along well-worn paths. (Warning: Swimsuits are optional out here.) To reach Stagecoach Springs, head toward the Taos Gorge Bridge and turn right onto Tune Road just before the bridge, then follow the lefts to the parking area. Black Rock Springs is near the John Dunn Bridge west of Arroyo Hondo. There are petroglyphs in the vicinity of both hot springs — modern humans aren’t the only ones who enjoy a bone-warming soak. Some lesser-known springs exist as well, but you have to find someone willing to tell you where they are. The Rio Grande del Norte Monument offers dozens of trail hikes, both rugged and tame. The Wild Rivers Recreation Area within the monument has several trails; on many Saturdays during the summer season, BLM staff will lead hikes here. The BLM and visitor centers have fliers specific to hiking Ute Mountain that describe the dirt roads that bring you close to the mountain, from the west and north sides, and details on other hiking options.

A LONG TIME COMING John Bailey, assistant field manager for recreation at the BLM Taos Field Office, says a group in Taos started trying to obtain protection for this amazing landscape back in the 1990s. Then-Congressman Bill Richardson formed a committee to look at putting the Rio Grande Gorge and surrounding area into a conservation area. At the time, there were fears from the acequia associations and economic interests that something could be lost, Bailey says, and so the effort went quiet for a while. Then, Democratic Senator Jeff Bingaman, now retired, put forth legislation about five or six years ago to protect the area, and the local population — acequia associations, county government and others — rallied around the cause. When Taos Pueblo gave its blessing to the project, a final hurdle was cleared, Bailey says. “This monument really rescues a vanishing landscape — the high-desert landscape,” Tefft concludes. “There are only a few of these landscapes left that aren’t developed — in Oregon and Nevada and New Mexico. This is the first type of bio-regime protected like this.” We are fortunate to have it!


Wild Rivers Recreation Area looking north, upriver, to Ute Mountain.

The Rio Grande del Norte National Monument includes two visitor centers where you can get hiking guides, maps and detailed information on camping and other activities. One is located near Pilar on N.M. 68 within the Orilla Verde Recreation Area, and another is near Questa at the Wild Rivers Recreation Area.



Maps, books, information: 954-2002 grande_del_norte.html.


Located near Pilar between Española and Taos, this recreation area includes several hiking trails, campgrounds, picnic areas, fishing access and swimming points in a relatively calm stretch of the Rio Grande, along with one of the two visitor centers for the national monument. The Rio Grande Gorge Visitor Center is located at the intersection of N.M. 68 and N.M. 570. It is open daily from 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., from Memorial Day to Labor Day. After Labor Day, the center is open Friday through Sunday from 10 a.m. until 3 p.m. For more information, call 751-4899 or visit


The Wild Rivers Recreation Area, about 20 minutes from Questa, has several trails, including a strenuous rim-to-rio trail, and campsites. The visitor center is open from Memorial Day through Labor Day, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. 575-586-1150 38

Taos Field Office: 226 Cruz Alta Road, Taos, NM 87571; 575-758-8851

Kristen Davenport is a writer and organic farmer living with her kids, gardens, goats and honeybees on 20 acres of irrigated land, Boxcar Farm, in Taos County. You can find her Saturdays at the Santa Fe Farmers Market and during the week up near the peaks of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Gene Peach has been photographing the cultures and landscapes of New Mexico for more than 25 years. His most recent book, Santa Fe (Museum of New Mexico Press, 2013, celebrates the town’s stunning physical beauty and many-layered cultures, honoring its real substance and soul. It’s a book that deep-rooted locals can care about and call their own. His other award-winning books include Making a Hand: Growing Up Cowboy in New Mexico and Santa Fe Icons: Fifty Symbols of the City Different.


v isi t


New Mexico History Museum/Palace of the Governors Poetics of Light: Pinhole Photography on the Plaza • 505.476.5100 •

Museum of Indian Arts and Culture Turquoise, Water, Sky: The Stone and Its Meaning on Museum Hill • 505.476.1250 •

New Mexico Museum 0f Art Local Color: Judy Chicago in New Mexico 1984-2014 opens June 6, 2014 on the Plaza • 505.476.5072 •

Museum of International Folk Art Wooden Menagerie: Made in New Mexico on Museum Hill • 505.476.1200 •

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


Few places can boast a history as rich and unique as that of New Mexico. New Mexico Historic Sites are seven storied places where the past is palpable. They invite you to hit the road, explore, and get out in the golden New Mexico sun. It’s your chance to follow in the footsteps of indigenous people, Spanish conquistadors, Civil War soliders, outlaws, and lawmen.Visiting a New Mexico historic site promises to grant you a deeper understanding of those who have gone before us and helped make us who we are today. Jemez Historic Site Near Jemez Springs 575-829-3530 Closed Mondays and Tuesdays Coronado Historic Site In Bernalillo 505-867-5351 Closed Tuesdays Fort Stanton Historic Site Southeast of Capitan 575-354-0341 Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays in summer, Mondays through Thursdays in winter. Fort Selden Historic Site Radium Springs 575-526-8911 Closed Tuesdays Bosque Redondo Memorial at Fort Sumner Historic Site Village of Fort Sumner 575-355-2573 Closed Mondays and Tuesdays Lincoln Historic Site Near Capitan and Ruidoso 575-653-4372 Open daily El Camino Real Historic Trail Site Near Socorro 575-854-3600 Closed Mondays and Tuesdays

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Enjoy an in-depth look at the Museum’s extensive collection of Southwestern turquoise jewelry and artifacts, presenting all aspects of the stone, from geology, mining and history, to questions of value and authenticity. Now on exhibit in the Masterpieces Gallery.

Museum of Indian Arts & Culture Museum Hill off Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe, New Mexico | (505) 476-1250 | | e x h i b i t i o n s a n d p r o g r a m s s u p p o r t e d b y t h e m u s e u m o f n e w m e x i c o f o u n d at i o n

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico




Be sure to travel all of these routes with a road map.


From Santa Fe, take US 84/285 north to Pojoaque and turn right onto NM 503. At NM 520, turn left and proceed to Chimayó. In Chimayó, visit Ortega’s Weaving Shop (53 Plaza del Cerro, 351-4215), and if hungry, stop in at Rancho de Chimayó Restaurante (right on NM 520, 351-4444, Shop for the village’s famous red chile and milagros (religious tokens) at El Potrero Trading Post (next to the Santuario, 351-4112). Santuario de Chimayó hours: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., May to September; 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., October to April.


Author Henry James said his two favorite English language words were “summer afternoon.” Mine are “road trip.” Crank up the music, open the sunroof, pass the trail mix

To reach San Ildefonso Pueblo, take 84/285 north of Santa Fe 15 miles to the junction with N.M. 502 in Pojoaque, then go 6 miles west on N.M. 502. There is a sign on the highway. Los Alamos is 39 miles northwest of Santa Fe via U.S. 84/285 and N.M. 502. Bandelier National Monument is 46 miles west of Santa Fe via U.S. 84/285, N.M. 502 and N.M. 4. Valles Caldera National Preserve is located on N.M. 4 about 15 miles past Bandelier. Note: There is no gas station between Los Alamos and San Ysidro.


and start your engine for a cruise to beat the blues. With Santa Fe as your base camp, you can fill up the tank in the morning, hit the road and by evening download enough photos of scenic beauty, historic significance and wowfactor discovery to make your Facebook friends jealous. For an immersion in legend and lore, plus shopping and dining opportunities available only in New Mexico, try car tripping along the following three routes: the High Road to Taos; a Jemez Mountains loop taking in Los Alamos or Bandelier National Monument; and a journey to Las Vegas and back. Each of these trips may be completed within a day at a leisurely pace or extended as suits your fancy and schedule.



To reach Las Vegas, travel an hour, approximately 67 miles northeast from Santa Fe on I-25. Visible are the landmarks of Starvation Peak on the right and, as you approach Las Vegas, Hermit’s Peak, an enormous granite knob, on the left.

Above, Estella’s on Bridge Street: Las Vegas Route. Left, Classical Gas Museum in Embudo: The High Road.

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Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


THE HIGH ROAD To drive the so-called High Road to Taos is to embrace the spirit of rustic magical realism that wraps Northern New Mexico like a handwoven Rio Grande blanket. Colors, muted like faded plastic flowers, shot through here and there with a bolt of turquoise or orange, notable regional architecture, faces, landscapes and skyscapes; plus roadside descansos (memorial shrines), remote hilltop crosses and vintage front-yard trucks (some repurposed as flower pots) are road signs on a journey into a realm tucked away from everyday 21st-century life. Tiny villages clinging to the winding road endure much as they always have. Warning: Your cell phone may not work up here. Barter, small sustainable farming and artisan crafts, with jobs at Los Alamos Labs, local schools or casinos, is how most people — many descended from original Hispanic settlers — get by. Along with a practical instinct for survival and making do, faith prevails here, in the belief that the miraculous may at any moment reveal itself, as surely as the shining desert rainbows that appear with the least hint of rain. Known for its “healing dirt,” the 1813 Santuario

de Chimayó (in Chimayó on N.M. 76, 351-9961)

is a pilgrimage site for people seeking healing for themselves or loved ones. With its reputation as the Lourdes of America, this sacred site is a masterwork of Spanish Colonial architecture known for its bultos (hand-carved and painted sculptures of saints), and reredos (altar screens) created by elusive santeros. Discarded crutches stand witness to miraculous healing. Hand-written testimonials and prayers cram the side chapel that holds el pocito, or the little well, of blessed earth. In case you wondered, Chimayó translates to “good flaking stone” in the Pueblo language Tewa. Nine miles up the road lies Truchas (or trout), set against the jagged 13,000-foot-high Truchas Peaks. The town is to this day a stronghold of Los Hermanos Penitentes, a Catholic lay society that traditionally tended the spiritual and ritual needs of these remote communities. Along the roadside, the acequia burbles in spring. Stop by the High Road Marketplace Artists’ Co-op & Gallery (1642 N.M. 76, 689-2689), exhibiting over 70 Northern New Mexico artists — wood-carvers, leather workers, potters, painters, weavers and photographers. To meet the artists, consider taking the High Road Artists Studio Tour (www. the last two weekends in September. Just north in the village of Las Trampas (or the traps) is the San José de Gracia Church (by appointment only, 351-4360), constructed between 1760-80. With its clerestory windows and twin bell towers, it is one of the most architecturally heralded and best-preserved Spanish Mission Churches. Each spring, the community maintains the church by handmudding the walls with adobe plaster. Peñasco might not be the obvious place for 44


an acclaimed foodie destination, but a stop at its little bistro with the colorful murals will convince you. When you take a bite of Sugar Nymphs’ (15046 N.M. 75, 575-587-0311) signature chocolate pecan pie or chocolate cake, a tower of rich deliciousness, you’ll say the entire trip was worthwhile. Wholesome, locally sourced and consistently delicious homemade soups, burgers, pizza and desserts make this welcoming off-thebeaten trail bistro a perfect late lunch stop. It’s only a half-hour drive from Peñasco to Taos via N.M. 75 to N.M. 518 — and a potential overnight stay at one of its many fine hotels or B&Bs — but keep your camera ready for sweeping landscape views of the Carson National Forest. At the intersection of N.M. 518 and N.M. 68, either

All along the High Road (clockwise from above): Santuario de Chimayó Sugar Nymph’s San José de Gracia Church Descanso at Los Llanitos Cemetery

head right (north) into Ranchos de Taos, passing San Francisco de Asis, (575-758-2754), the most frequently photographed church in the U.S., or swing left (south) on N.M. 68 to return to Santa Fe along the 70-mile “River Road,” following the Rio Grande for views of the newly declared Rio Grande del Norte National Monument. Wave to rafters floating the Taos Box, photograph vintage gas pumps and a jumbled array of automotive memorabilia at the free

roadside attraction Classical Gas Museum (505852-2995), and stop for a fine burger or BBQ sandwich at Sugar’s BBQ & Burger (1799 N.M. 68, Embudo, 852-0604). In fall, fruit stands in Alcalde offer an abundance of chile ristras, homemade preserves, squash, apples and cider. Then motor back through Española and on to Santa Fe.

THE JEMEZ MOUNTAINS LOOP Head north out of Santa Fe on U.S. 84/285, and exit in Pojoaque onto N.M. 502. San Ildefonso Pueblo (just off N.M. 502 next to the Rio Grande; Visitors’ Center: 455-3549), with its backdrop of Black Mesa and soaring Pajarito Plateau, has a long and complex history that includes resistance to the Spanish during the Reconquest of 1692. It is famous for its lustrous black pottery, especially that of the late, great artist Maria Martinez, her husband Julian and their family. Numerous artist studios, shops and a small museum offer classic black-on-black pottery and other artworks for sale. The town of Los Alamos is an enigma. Home to the program that built the world’s first atomic weapons — the Manhattan Project, directed by physicist J. Robert Oppenheimer — and still the center of U.S. nuclear weapons research and development, it looks like a tranquil Midwestern town dropped into Northern New Mexico. The best way to absorb its history is to visit the Bradbury Science Museum (667-4444), the John Gaw Meem-designed Fuller Lodge Art Center (662-1635) and the neighboring Los Alamos Historical Museum (662-4493). Perhaps you’d prefer to bypass Los Alamos (you cannot expect to thoroughly see both Los Alamos and what follows in one day). If so, a wonderful alternative is a 1.5-mile walk on an easy trail with stunning views of the Rio Grande Valley at Tsankawi (on N.M. 4 near the intersection of East Jemez Road, 672-3861). This outlying unit of Bandelier National Monument — dotted with petroglyphs and ruins dating to A.D. 1400 — evokes the spirits of the ancients. Approximately 15 miles south of Los Alamos is Bandelier National Monument (just off N.M. 4, 672-3861,, once home to Ancestral Puebloans who migrated from Mesa Verde circa A.D. 1100. A full day can be spent just here: Cliff dwellings and kivas are a short walk from the Visitor Center, and despite fires of recent years, longer hikes are possible. Lava rocks from the volcanic eruption that created the beautiful 89,000-acre basin known today as the Valles Caldera National Preserve (on N.M. 4, 866-382-5537, some two million years ago have been found as far away as Kansas. The Preserve offers, usually by reservation, hiking, fly-fishing, snowshoeing, birding, mountain biking, hunting, elk watching and other recreational opportunities. About 30 minutes south on N.M. 4 from the Caldera find Jemez Historic Site (575-829-3530), 46


believed to be the original site of Jemez Pueblo. It includes the 17th-century San José de los Jemez Mission Church built atop the ruins of a 14th-century Towa-speaking pueblo. Continuing four miles south on N.M. 4, the tiny burg of Jemez Springs is an idyllic cluster of cafes and bed and breakfast inns, highlighted by the 1870-era Jemez Springs Bath House (62 Jemez Springs Plaza, 575-829-3303). Book a massage and soothe away your cares with a mineral soak in a private, old-fashioned tub. Dining options include the landmark Los Ojos Restaurant & Saloon (575-829-3547), with a bowl of superlative red chile, the “just hot enough” vegetarian green chile stew or their “Famous Jemez Burger.” Continuing south of Jemez Springs on N.M. 4 for 15 miles, find neighboring Jemez Pueblo. The best way to learn about its history and way of life is to visit the Walatowa Visitor Center (7413 N.M. 4, 575-834-7235), several miles further south of the Pueblo. Here native pottery and other crafts are for sale, and there are horno (adobe beehive oven) bread-baking demonstrations. The pueblo is only accessible to visitors on feast days, but shops along the roadway are open daily. A memorable last stop on this day’s journey is Coronado Historic Site (485 Kuaua Rd. in Bernalillo, 867-5351), to behold the Sandia Mountains at sunset. When the magical light briefly paints the range’s granite face watermelon red, you’ll know how the Sandias got their name. Overlooking the Rio Grande, this site of the vanished Tiwa pueblo Kuaua is where conquistador Francisco Vasquez de Coronado spent the bitterly cold winter of 1540-41 during the first European exploration into the Southwest. The ruins include a kiva (underground prayer room), with recently restored 14th-century frescoes that pique the imagination about ancient Pueblo life. It’s then a 45-minute drive north on Interstate 25 back to Santa Fe.

TO LAS VEGAS: EDGE OF THE GREAT PLAINS To residents of the county seat of San Miguel, there is no disagreement about the location of the original Las Vegas (the meadows), 64 miles northeast of Santa Fe on I-25. Established as a Spanish land grant in 1835, with 900 buildings listed on the National Register of Historic Places, this railroading, moviemaking, Santa Fe Trail trading center is a treasure of history and diversity. In its heyday, Las Vegas exemplified the Wild West, attracting outlaws, gamblers, merchants, adventurers and desperados. Here Doc Holliday practiced dentistry. Wyatt Earp, Kit Carson, Jesse James, Pat Garrett and others walked its streets, as well as Teddy Roosevelt, cowboy icon Tom Mix and African American fighter Jack Johnson. On its plaza, in August 1846, Brigadier Col. Stephen Watts Kearny of the Army of the West declared that New Mexico was now a U.S. territory.

Starting at the exquisitely renovated 1880s

Plaza Hotel (230 Plaza Park, 425-3591), once

known as the “Belle of the Southwest,” amble around the Plaza to El Zocalo Cooperative Art Gallery (454-9904), a showcase of locally made jewelry, beadwork and painting; Traveler’s Café (426-8638) with its outstanding fresh-roasted coffee, scones, stuffed croissants and sweet treats; and Plaza Antiques (454-9447), home to a superlative collection of Fred Harvey railroad-era turquoise and silver bracelets and vintage jewelry. A stroll down Bridge Street, radiating from the Plaza, brings you to Tome on the Range (4549944), a steadfast indie bookshop with a range of books from kids’ reading to regional specialties. Across the bridge over the Gallinas River, find Rough Rider Antiques (501 Railroad Ave., 4548063) and the gloriously ghostly old Fred Harvey property, the 1898 La Castaneda Hotel (524 Railroad Ave.), scheduled for renovations in 2015. Charlie’s Spic & Span Bakery & Café, (713 Douglas Ave., 426-1921), is a legendary New Mexico eatery famous for tasty chile, fresh tortillas and tantalizing baked goods. Inside the remodeled 1920s-era El Fidel Hotel (500 Douglas Ave., 425-6761) are a coffee bar, restaurant and lobby with hanging ferns that preserves yesteryear to perfection. Visit the City of Las Vegas Museum and Rough Rider Memorial Collection (727 Grand Ave., 426-3205), to learn the city’s ranching, railroad and Santa Fe Trail history, and view memorabilia of Spanish American War fighters (aka The Rough Riders); many were recruited from the area by Teddy Roosevelt. Montezuma Castle (five miles northwest of Las Vegas on N.M. 65), is a restored 1882, 400-room Fred Harvey hotel, designed for the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway in the grand Queen Anne style. It now serves as a campus of Armand Hammer’s United World College of the American

West (454-4200) with an international student body. Tours are offered on designated dates. If the town itself is not enough to hold your interest, just off I-25 between Santa Fe and Las Vegas lies an intriguing historic site, Pecos National Historical Park (on N.M. 63, 757-7200). It encompasses 1,200 years of history, including the ruins of Pecos Pueblo, a massive Spanish colonial church and Santa Fe trail sites. There’s a 1.25-mile self-guided tour and visitor center. And, about 30 minutes north of Las Vegas is Fort Union National Monument (Exit 366 off I-25 near Watrous, 3115 Monument Lane, 4258025). Built of adobe in 1851, it became the largest fort in the Southwest, serving as both a defense point and supply depot. A 1.6-mile accessible interpretive trail tells of the story of the Santa Fe Trail, which passed through the area. Summer brings re-enactments and tours. Sharon Niederman, freelance writer and photographer based in Northern New Mexico, is the author of 16 books of New Mexican travel, Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


Clockwise from above: Pecos National Historical Park: Las Vegas Route La Castaneda Hotel: Las Vegas Route Plaza Hotel: Las Vegas Route Bradbury Science Museum: Jemez Mountain Loop Tsankawi: Jemez Mountain Loop

cuisine, history and fiction. Her Signs & Shrines: Spiritual Journeys Across New Mexico received the 2012 Lowell Thomas travel writing award. With photographer Kitty Leaken, she is working on The Plate of Enchantment, a celebration of local cuisine, to be released in 2015 by The Countryman Press/W.W. Norton & Co. Freelance photographer Kerry Sherck moved to Santa Fe from the Northeast after falling in love with the landscape. She specializes in editorial and portrait photography, as well as documentary-style weddings.

A Prayer for Santa Fe by Rev. Talitha Arnold

O Dios, El Senor, Great Spirit, El Shaddai, Adonai, Creator God, creating still. By whatever name we know you, hear our prayers this day. We thank you for the courage and the Santa Fe, the Holy Faith, of those who founded this city 400 years ago. And we thank you, too, for the native peoples who prayed in this land for centuries before and for all who have come in the centuries since. For all, be they native or newcomer, whose prayers continue to bless this city, we thank you this day. With our prayers of thanks, hear too our prayers for guidance and wisdom. Help us to learn from this good land and the beauty of creation all around us. In this land of endless sky, teach us the boundlessness of your beauty and love. In this land of little rain, teach us to share and to bless what you have given us. In this land of brilliant sunrise and golden sunset, teach us to use each day to bless the lives of others. In this land of many cultures and colors, give us your infinite imagination and teach us to respect and value all your children. O God, our help in ages past, be our hope and the hope of this City of Santa Fe in all the years to come. Help us all to build on the foundation of faith, hope, and love that others have laid here, so that all your people in this city might do justice, love mercy and walk humbly with You, now and always. Amen.

We invite you to worship with us while visiting Santa Fe. Sunday Summer Services: 8:30am Outdoor Communion; 10am inside.

THE UNITED CHURCH OF SANTA FE Rev. Talitha Arnold and Rev. Brandon Johnson, Ministers Jacquelyn Helin, Pianist and Music Director; Karen Marrolli, Choral Director; Andrea Hamilton, Children’s Director

1804 Arroyo Chamiso (at St. Michael’s Drive) 988-3295 | Welcoming of all people.

“Love God, Love Neighbor, Love Creation.” 48


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the art of hospitality Taste the flavors of Santa Fe at Fuego restaurant, indulge in cocktails at the Historic Staab House Bar or find respite with signature Southwestern therapies and exquisite spa treatments at La Posada de Santa Fe. Known as, “The Art Hotel of Santa Fe,” La Posada de Santa Fe features works of well-known American artists. Join us every Friday afternoon for an art history tour, courtesy of our on-site Art Curator. 505 986 0000 |

©2014 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, The Luxury Collection and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


2014 Schedule of Weekend Events

Harvest Festival A museum should taste and smell as good as it looks.

Battlefield New Mexico: The Civil War and More May 3 & 4 Santa Fe Fiber Arts Festival May 24 & 25 Spring Festival and Children’s Fair June 7 & 8 Herb and Lavender Fair June 21 & 22 Santa Fe Wine Festival July 5 & 6 ¡Viva México! July 19 & 20 Summer Festival and Territorial Law & Order August 2 & 3 Survival: New Mexico August 16 & 17 Fiesta de los Niños August 30 & 31 Santa Fe Renaissance Fair September 20 & 21 Harvest Festival October 4 & 5 505-471-2261 Santa Fe Support provided by New Mexico Arts and the Santa Fe Arts Commission 50




Like flowers pushing up through the frozen ground, new restaurants pop up in the late spring in our food-crazy town, whetting the appetites of hungry locals and visitors yearning for new eats. Many newborn restaurants take advantage of the first thaw to burst forth, giving them plenty of growing time before the dog days of summer. Here is a sampling of six I think deserve a visit. Who knows? They might just become your new local favorites.

Izanami has over 50 different kinds of sake; this one is Inemankai, “Ine’s Full Bloom” red rice sake. An ‘over’ pour, when the liquid spills over into a saucer, is a gesture of generosity.

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


IZANAMI AT TEN THOUSAND WAVES 3451 Hyde Park Rd., 428-6390,

Santa Fe is blessed to have chefs and restaurants that regularly earn kudos and awards that keep our little food town in the national spotlight. The newly opened Izanami, with Chef Kim Muller at the helm, is just such an establishment. Their 2014 nomination as Best New Restaurant in America by the James Beard Foundation is due to its tranquil beauty and comfort — like a minka, or tavern folk house deep in the mountains of Japan — and a small-plate, locally sourced organic menu that begs for each dish to be sampled. I can make a meal out of the fried Brussels sprouts with lemon, chile and mint, but then I’d miss the tender gyoza, Japanese wagyu beef (raised in Cerrillos) hamburger, daily pickle assortment and ginger glazed pork belly. Choose from their themes of cold, hot, grilled, fried and sweet foods, plus an amazing assortment of sake, beer and teas. As an extra boon you can soak in traditional Japanese hot tubs and sleep in the stylish accommodations of this world-class hideaway. Eat, soak, sleep, repeat!

Clockwise, starting with Izanami’s exterior, a Japanese tavern carved into the hillside. Crispy Brussels sprouts with lemon, chile, mint and puffed rice; seasonal vegetable salad with quinoa, Tuscan kale and creamy sesame-tofu dressing; Chef Kim Muller; condiments tray; tonkatsu — panko-breaded heritage pork loin cutlet, hot mustard, cabbage, miso katsu sauce with a flight of sake; and onigiri — fresh rice balls with red rice saki.

Epazote’s combination botana comes with a steaming hot rock on which you cook slivers of salmon, yellowfin tuna, beef tenderloin and pork loin. The tangy sauces are, from left, infused olive oil with sage and white pepper, tamarind Thai chile, tangerine habanero, jalapeno aioli, and prickly pear balsamic.

EPAZOTE ON THE HILLSIDE 86 Old Las Vegas Hwy., 982-9944,

Fans of Chef Fernando Olea can rejoice with the relocation of his Epazote restaurant to the sunny digs at Hillside on Old Las Vegas Highway. A meal here is not only an edible tour of old and New Mexico, but a cultural culinary experience as well. Olea, who hails from Mexico and is also the brains behind Bert’s Burger Bowl, continues his exploration of regional south-of-the-border cooking by featuring many ingredients not found on any menu in Santa Fe. Cuitlacoche fungi and crispy grasshoppers share the menu with earthy black bean soup, rich and sumptuous moles and slow-roasted marinated meats. A new twist for the clever chef are small plate botanas, where guests can cook on smoking hot river rocks brought to the table with a variety of raw ingredients ready for the sizzle and sided by sauces for dipping. Lamb, fish and seafood need only a minute for a sear, then down the hatch. The open kitchen sports a wood-fired horno that spouts pizzas, and the greenhouse setting makes this a perfect place for warm weather noshing. Welcome back, Chef Olea.



L’Olivier’s elegant truffled lobster salad with sherry vinaigrette, left, and right, El-Evation Bistro’s new summer dish, stuffed chicken Florentino with ham, spinach, mushrooms and feta cheese with pineapple reduction glaze.

L’OLIVIER 229 Galisteo St., 989-1919,

Classic French cookery never goes out of style, and the ever-so-French Chef Xavier Grenet, formerly of Ristra, is here to prove it with his cozy new bistro. The once monochromatic interiors of the eatery set along the Santa Fe River have been dramatically brightened and lightened up with hues of jonquil and terra cotta. The menu is chock-full of all the requisite goodies one comes to expect from a Frenchman at the stove: fork-tender duck confit, peppercorn sauced steak frites, falling-off-the bone coq au vin and buttery foie gras pâté. Luscious off-topic dishes include a decadent truffled lobster salad, eggplant and tuna cannelloni and the chef’s tipping of his toque to New Mexico with a rabbit-stuffed poblano relleno. Delicieux? Oui, oui!

EL-EVATION BISTRO 103 E. Water St., 820-0363, on Facebook at Elevation-Bistro

Great gourmet food at pocket-friendly prices has downtown abuzz over the El-Evation Bistro, which took over the vaulted space that housed Atomic Café for many years. Kudos to the new owner-operators, brothers Ben and Lane Sanders, and Chef Andres Portugues for offering an eclectic, all-day menu with dishes that taste as delicious as they look. Share yummy plates like the plump and sweet red chile-infused mussels, smoky grilled wedge salad with pancetta or the green chile mac & cheese. Blow a whole day’s worth of calories on El-Evation chile fries, and save room for the grass-fed burger if you can. The El just raised the bar on casual dining.

From left, Epazote’s Fernando Olea, L’Olivier’s Nathalie Bonnard-Grenet and Xavier Grenet, and El-Evation Bistro’s brothers Lane and Ben Sanders. Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


Foodies love the shared plate menu that includes bubbling fondue studded with artichoke hearts and spinach, tasty assorted bruschetta, creative panini, crab-rich Baltimore crab cakes and classic Southern fried chicken with grits.

Owners Catherine O’Brien (left) and Glenda Griswold.

TERRACOTTA WINE BISTRO 305 Johnson St., 989-1166,

The oldest of the new kids on the block, TerraCotta fills the role of casual wine bar and easygoing dining in a comfy cottage setting. For caterers Catherine O’Brien and Glenda Griswold, the addition of a restaurant to their repertoire was an easy skip and a hop. Foodies love the shared plate menu that includes bubbling fondue studded with artichoke hearts and spinach, tasty assorted bruschetta, creative panini, crab-rich Baltimore crab cakes and classic Southern fried chicken with grits. Terrific wine prices will help lubricate your meal. John Vollertsen (aka Chef Johnny Vee) is Director of the Las Cosas Cooking School and Food & Dining Editor for the Santa Fean magazine, as well as feature writer for Local Flavor magazine. He now contributes to magazines for The Santa Fe New Mexican. He is also the subject of a book: Cooking With Johnny Vee, published by Gibbs Smith.

TerraCotta’s crab-rich Baltimore crab cakes. 56


At Shake Foundation, owner Brian Knox — formerly of the long-revered Café Escalera and, more recently, Aqua Santa — ups the ante with a host of gourmet toppings, such as pork belly, great guacamole and whipped lardo, plus perfect buns

SHAKE FOUNDATION 631 Cerrillos Rd., outdoor dining only, no phone

Santa Feans take their green chile burgers very seriously, so there is plenty of room for healthy competition in this favorite food niche. At Shake Foundation, owner Brian Knox — formerly of the long-revered Café Escalara and, more recently, Aqua Santa — ups the ante with a host of gourmet toppings, such as pork belly, great guacamole and whipped lardo, plus perfect buns, decadent Taos Cow ice cream shakes and some of the hottest chile to be found this side of Hatch. I love a bun that stays intact during the entire devouring, and Knox imports Martin’s Famous Pastry Shoppe’s potato rolls from the East Coast that do the trick. I’m a huge fan of the skinny fries, too. The 3 oz. burgers also come in turkey, lamb and veggie versions, and there’s green chile stew and fried oyster sandwiches, but for me, when in Rome … Kitty Leaken is an international photojournalist whose work has been published in books, magazines and newspapers, including Contemporary Native American Artists (Gibbs Smith, 2012), Cooking with Café Pasqual’s (Ten Speed Press/ Random House, 2007) and The Art of Exile (Museum of New Mexico Press, 1996); Sunset, Rolling Stone, Native Peoples and Cowboys & Indians; and The New York Times, Los Angeles Times, The Washington Post, Santa Fe New Mexican and Santa Fe Reporter, where she began her career after graduating from Stanford University in 1981. Ayla Hitt picks up her burger and fries from Brian Knox at Shake Foundation. Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


I nti m ate. C om pel l i ng . Unforgettabl e. Si nc e 1972.

July 20 - August 25, 2014

toll free 888.221.9836 505.982.1890





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Thank you to our lead sponsors

Brent Learned

Frederica Antonio

MEMORIAL DAY WEEKEND MAY 24–25, 2014 SANTA FE CONVENTION CENTER Benefits the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture


Joe Cajero 58


2014 Featured Artists, Joe & Althea Cajero

Most romantic bars B Y TA N T R I W I J A | P H OTO S LU I S S A N C H E Z S AT U R N O

Welcome to Santa Fe, city of twinkling farolitos, Oscarworthy sunsets and cozy adobe corners. Maybe you’re here on a lovers’ retreat, or perhaps you live here and have met someone special. If you want to enjoy a sip and a nibble together, cuddle up at one of Santa Fe’s many outstanding and charming bars.

and wicked baked brie. There’s a limited cocktail menu (mostly margaritas) and a smallish selection of beer and wine, but you’re in it for the views anyway. Be sure to snag a table before sunset, or simply lean against the railing and get cozy while watching the sun go down.

From the top: Diners at the Palace Restaurant and Saloon.

For views and outdoor air, visit the Bell Tower Bar at La Fonda Hotel (seasonal, 100 E. San Francisco St., 982-5511). This locals’ favorite roof, on the fifth floor of the La Fonda Hotel, is great place to meet a blind date, since everybody looks more glamorous framed by a dramatic Southwestern sunset. The Bell Tower features a light menu of sliders, nachos

A group of visitors enjoy drinks at the Living Room Lounge at the Inn at Loretto. Dina and Tim Ryan, from Salida, Colo., have a drink in a quiet corner at Secreto Bar at Hotel St. Francis.

When it’s chilly outside and you want a cozy place to curl up, visit The Staab House Bar at La Posada (330 E. Palace Ave., 986-0000). Originally a private home, the Staab House retains the nook-and-corner feel of an old western parlor, replete with comfy vintage chairs, beautifully distressed floors, conversation-sparking artwork and fireplaces built for two. Warm up with wine from their carefully curated list, and nibble on food from the award-winning hotel restaurant, Fuego, which serves everything from quail to green chile cheeseburgers.

If you want a more lively outdoor experience, head over to Coyote Café’s Rooftop Cantina (seasonal, 132 W. Water St., 983-1615). Sip a lava lamp (a frozen margarita floating in a Dos Equis) or a cucumber-infused cocktail while a warm breeze caresses you at the sexiest rooftop in town. Get there early because

it can get mobbed, but the people watching both of the street below and in the bar itself are Santa Fe’s best. When all that fresh air and PDA (public displays of affection) makes you peckish, try the nachos “totopos” layered with braised pork shoulder, or the japaleño shooters with bacon and panko crumbs.

While The Living Room at the Inn at Loretto (211 Old Santa Fe Trail, 800-727-5531) is probably nothing like your actual living room, this inviting, low-key Santa Fe Style bastion of cushy leather sofas will be where you want to spend your evenings. Snag a seat in front of the giant fireplace, or tuck yourself and your special

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


friend into the kiva-patterned cushions and enjoy the discounted drinks during Happy Hour and a Half (5-6:30 p.m.) or the specially priced food during the Reverse Happy Hour (9-10:30 p.m.). Plus, Matthew Andrae, whose music you can enjoy on weekend nights, sounds exactly (and we mean exactly) like Tracy Chapman. For a little authentic Spanish flavor in a modern café atmosphere, head over to Taberna La Boca (72 W. Marcy St., 988-7102) for delicate tapas, carefully curated wines, and flamenco music. Nibble on chorizo rioja, gambas fritas or salty boquerones, and have the knowledgeable staff ply you with authentic Spanish sherries to pair with your food — and to help you pair with your date! If fancy cocktails are your “food of love,” cuddle up at Secreto at Hotel St. Francis (210 Don Gaspar Ave., 983-5700), a dark, wood-paneled, quasi-medieval nook with the most creative cocktails in town by master mixologist Chris Milligan and his crew. Try the Spicy Secreto, an award-winning combination of Cabana Cachaça and St. Germain elderflower liqueur spiked with jalapeño and served with a dangerously spicy rim of

formerly santa fe concert association ForMerly The sanTa Fe concerT associaTion

2014 SCHEDULE Festival of Song sanTa Fe opera sTars in concerT sT. John’s UniTed MeThodisT chUrch

> Thursday, July 31, 4:00 pm Alek Shrader, tenor and Daniela Mack, mezzo-soprano with Joseph Illick, piano Phil and Maggie Peterson, from Santa Fe, celebrate their 28th wedding anniversary at Taberna La Boca.

> Sunday, August 3, 4:00 pm Corinne Winters, soprano with Steven Blier, piano

red chile salt, which will put some kick in that late-night kiss. For an aromatic treat, try the smoked sage margarita, or party like it’s 1919 with vintage cocktail recipes like the prohibition-era Boulevardier or the iconic Dark & Stormy.

> Friday, August 8, 4:00 pm Paul Groves, tenor with Joseph Illick, piano > Sunday, August 10, 4:00 pm Brenda Rae, soprano with In Sun Suh, piano

For even more vintage atmosphere swathed in Asia-in-the-movies flavor, try Jinja Bar & Bistro (510 N. Guadalupe St., 982-4321). The drinks are fruity, the lighting is strategic, and the booths have high walls, making this the perfect spot to have your Rick & Ilsa Casablanca moment. Nestle among the vintage Chinese pin-up girl posters while the attractive servers swan around with food on skewers, and try the “pre-Prohibitionera cocktails” that tend towards the tiki, including mai-tais, Singapore slings and sazeracs, plus a bevy of mojitos and margaritas. And, the addictive, panAsian food is perfect for sharing.

Stars of American Ballet > Wednesday and Thursday, August 13 and 14, 2014, 7:30 pm Lensic Performing Arts Center

Opening Orchestral Concert WaldenMaier World preMiere, r. sTraUss, MUssorgsky/ravel

Audrey Luna, soprano Performance Santa Fe Orchestra Joseph Illick, conductor > Sunday, August 31, 2014, 4:00 pm Lensic Performing Arts Center

Berlin Philharmonic Wind Quintet MUsic by MozarT, hindeMiTh, ThUille

with pianist Jon Nakamatsu > Sunday, October 12, 2014, 4:00 pm Lensic Performing Arts Center

Atrium String Quartet

Tchaikovsky, shosTakovich

> Friday, October 24, 2014, 7:30 pm St. John’s College, Great Hall

Berlin Philharmonic Wind Quintet, Stars of American Ballet, Globe Theatre (London)

Notes on Music Johann sTraUss

with waltzing afterwards > Sunday, November 16, 2014, 4:00 pm Eldorado Hotel

Notes on Music

meisTersinGer sing-along

> Saturday, December 6, 2014, 7:30 pm United Church of Santa Fe

Anonymous 4 On YOOlis niGhT

> Tuesday, December 9, 2014, 7:30 pm Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis

Christmas Eve Concert Tchaikovsky, gershWin

Performance Santa Fe Orchestra Emily Bear, piano Joseph Illick, conductor Wed., December 24, 2014, 5:00 pm Lensic Performing Arts Center

Globe Theatre


> Thursday, October 30, 2014, 7:30 pm Lensic Performing Arts Center

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If it’s later than you thought, The Palace Restaurant & Saloon (142 W. Palace Ave., 428-0690), with its red velvetflocked wallpaper and shadowy mood lighting, has a menu that serves until 1 a.m., making this the perfect place to spend a long night getting to know someone. Share a plate of truffle fries piled high with Gorgonzola sauce, green chile and bacon. There’s karaoke on Thursdays and music on weekend nights, and if the decor makes you think of an old western brothel, that’s because the spot once was one. Also serving late night nibbles, the



Agave at the El Dorado Hotel (995-4530, 309 W. San Francisco St.) is an upscale lounge with vaguely 1980’s-glam atmosphere, thick couches and a cool futuristic gas fireplace; the perfect place to woo that android you’ve been crushing on. The menu is served until midnight and includes indulgent Kobe beef sliders and lobster sliders (yes, lobster), served until midnight. The specialty cocktails tend to be on the sweet side (such as the Hot Apple Pie featuring vanilla liqueur, apple cider, and whipped cream) but then, so is love. WEB LINKS Bell Tower Bar: www.lafondasantafe. com/dining-and-entertainment/belltower-bar/ Coyote Café: cantina.html Staab House: www.laposadadesantafe. com/dining/staab-house The Living Room at Loretto: www. santa-fe-lounge.php Taberna La Boca: taberna-la-boca/ Secreto: Jinja: The Palace Restaurant & Saloon: Agave at the El Dorado Hotel: www. Tantri Wija is a writer/filmmaker living in Santa Fe, who also freely dispenses advice on both food and romance.

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UNWIND… Escape to the Spa at Rancho Encantado where an innovative selection of spa and wellness services honoring New Mexico’s indigenous healing traditions awaits.

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico



The Original Fountain of Youth Ojo’s sacred waters have been healing mind, body & spirit naturally for centuries.

purchase spa treatments and soak for free and receive a Complimentary robe and Locker amenity* *De-stress for Less Spa Special: $100 spa purchase Monday - Thursday, or $150 Friday - Sunday, and holidays. ($33 - $43 Savings) Valid 7 days per week May 1 - August 31, 2014. Not to be combined with any other offer. Subject to availability. Tax & gratuity additional.

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FARMERS MARKETS BLOSSOM BY STANLEY CRAWFORD With its reputation as one of the top 10 farmers’ markets in the country, the Santa Fe Farmers Market in the Railyard attracts thousands of shoppers and tourists Saturday and Tuesday mornings during the peak season. But the past few decades have seen a blossoming of farmers markets throughout the region for those wishing to avoid crowds and check out markets offering an excellent range of produce — often at lower prices. Visiting them is a journey of exploration and discovery, both culinary and cultural. In the mid-1960s, the League of Women Voters Agricultural Project established the Los Alamos Farmers Market. The Santa Fe Farmers Market followed in 1968, opening in a church parking lot. Smaller, outlying farmers’ markets began to be established in the 1980s, many with the assistance of the newly formed New Mexico Farmers’ Marketing Association. Now there are some 60 farmers’ markets in the state, with a few new ones opening every year, minus a few that fail to take root. New Mexico echoes the national trend. In the 1960s, nationally there were only a handful of farmers markets. By 1994, when the U.S. Department of Agriculture first began counting, there were 1,744. As of 2013, there were 8,144. My wife RoseMary and I started our farming career in the early 1970s by selling at the Taos Farmers Market in the courthouse parking lot. The wellknown landscape painter Alyce Frank was the early manager of this market, which was established by the Taos Lions Club. Eventually we heard about the Santa Fe market, and from 1975 we sold there. Aside from a couple of hiatuses in the 1980s and 1990s, we have continued to sell in Santa Fe to this day. The smaller markets tend to serve smaller growers not necessarily trying to make a living exclusively from farming. Smaller markets are more leisurely, allowing more interaction among growers and customers. They have, to a large degree, replaced the traditional roadside fruit and vegetable stands by concentrating sales in time and place — but not exclusively. The Salman Ranch and produce stands in Velarde (north of Española along N.M. 68) and

Rinconada (a few miles north of Embudo on N.M. 68) continue to sell their own produce, as well as reselling produce and wares from other sources; this is prohibited by the rules of most farmers’ markets, which emphasize selling only what you grow. The many values of farmers markets are now widely acknowledged. They enable growers of all sizes to market their produce directly, eliminating the middleman, and provide valuable experience for entry-level producers in presenting and marketing their produce. They also offer the freshest possible produce to customers and have a positive economic effect on neighborhoods and communities. Before the Santa Fe Farmers Market moved on to the now-thriving Railyard district, becoming an anchor tenant, the Railyard was officially designated as a “blighted” area. New York City’s Greenmarket transformed drug-infested Union Square into an upmarket restaurant and storefront area, one of countless such stories from around the country. But the reliance of urban farmers markets on well-educated, middle-class customers — who can afford to pay the price premium that small growers need in order to survive — may also have its risks, given the economic battering the middle class is now enduring. Yet it is to be hoped that community investments in farmers markets will lead to ways of ensuring small local producers can weather this and future crises. Here is a sampling of smaller farmers’ markets within a two-hour drive of Santa Fe. Dixon Coop Farmers Market: Created in the early years of the new millennium and now occupying the old Zellers store, this market features from five to 15 local growers. Its specialties include raspberries, chile, onions and garlic. Like many farmers markets, it is an important gathering place for the community. It operates from 3:30 to 6:30 p.m. on Wednesdays, from June until early October. Checks from the Women, Infants and Children (WIC) and the Senior Farmers’ Market Nutrition Program (FMNP) are accepted. Details: Dan and Barbara Pollock, 579-9199. Eldorado Farmers Market: Established in 2007, it will hold its first 2014 session on Friday, June 6, 4 to 6 p.m., at the La Tienda parking lot, 7 Caliente Road.

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico



Proceeds from the market operation go to a local food pantry, Bienvenidos, to help feed the hungry. The market is notable for its goat and cow cheeses, lamb products and honey — and for its summertime “Name That Goat” contest. WIC and Senior FMNP checks are accepted. Details: Susan Tarver, 920-5660,

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Embudo Farmers Market: Now in its second year of operation on the Taos Highway (N.M. 68) next to Vivac Winery, 50 miles north of Santa Fe, this market features about 10 producers. They gather from May 1 to Sept. 15, on Thursdays and Fridays from 2 to 6 p.m. and on Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. The organizers are working toward a fulltime roadside stand on the highway. Details: Steve Vigil, 579-4217. Española Farmers Market: It claims the distinction of owning the 3.9 acres of its site, which incorporates an acre and a half devoted to a community garden, including a flower garden and a demonstration horno (traditional wood-fired adobe oven) that children are taught how to use. Besides the usual offerings, blue corn for grits, okra, and native plants and natural dyes from Santa Clara Pueblo can be purchased. In operation for some 20 years, the market serves more than 30 producers during the peak season. It operates on Mondays from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., from June 9 through the end of October; from mid-July to mid-September, a second market session is held on Fridays from 2 to 7 p.m. Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP), debit, WIC and Senior FMNP checks are accepted. Details: Sabra Moore, 685-4842, Las Vegas Tri-County Farmers Market: Open from May 17 to the end of

October, this market features 25 to 30 growers who sell chiles, apples, various types of squash and an increasing variety of greens. It’s been in operation for some 50 years. SNAP, debit, WIC and Senior FMNP checks are accepted. Details: Cordia Sammenth, 426-1468. Los Alamos Farmers Market: The grande dame of the state’s markets, this one offers almost as much variety as the Santa Fe market. Opening the first Thursday in May and running until the end of October on Thursdays, 7 a.m. to 12:30 p.m., it’s located at the Mesa Public Library parking lot (at Central and Bathtub) and features up to 40 producers. The Los Alamos Chamber of Commerce maintains a web page for the market. WIC and Senior FMNP checks are accepted. Details: Cindy Talamantes, 929-6579. Mora Valley Farmers Market: In operation for about 10 years, this market is

located in a parking lot on the main street, N.M. 518, across from Russell’s grocery store. The market operates from the first Friday in July to the first Friday in October, 3 to 6 p.m. About eight growers regularly sell here, with numbers increasing during the peak season, including some specializing in heirloom vegetables. SNAP, WIC and Senior FMNP checks are accepted. Details: Betsy Block, 220-1845.

Pojoaque Farmers Market: Established two years ago as a project of the Pueblo’s

143 Lincoln @ Marcy 820.1234

P’osuwaegeh Farm, the market is open to all local producers and includes a number of growers from the pueblo itself, plus San Ildefonso and Tesuque pueblos. Products include Indian tacos, tamales and pies. The market runs from the last Wednesday in May until the end of October at the Poeh Cultural Center, 78 Cities of Gold Road, alongside U.S. 84/285. Hours are 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. SNAP, WIC and Senior FMNP checks are accepted. Details: Richard Bernard, 455-9086.

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Red Willow Farmers Market at Taos Pueblo: A 5,000-square-foot heated greenhouse enables this market to operate year round, on Wednesdays from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Staffed mainly by Taos High School students, it is the nation’s only afterschool greenhouse program, according to its manager. This aspect of the Taos Pueblo Farm, a tribal collective, has been in operation since March 2013. The outdoor market, notable for traditional varieties of squash, runs from mid-July until October. Details: Angelo McHorse, 575-770-8688.

Salman Ranch: Pick your own raspberries from the field and visit the retail outlet housed in the venerable Mercantile Building, which is part of the La Cueva Historic Site with its famous grist mill. Fresh raspberries are available from mid-September, but call ahead or visit the website to reserve an order. The retail store is open July to December from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily; January to June, it’s open Thursdays through Mondays from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. The ranch is located north of Las Vegas on N.M. 518. Details: 575-387-2900 or 866-281-1515,



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Southside Santa Fe: Attempts to launch a second market in Santa Fe have come

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and gone but seem now to be taking root. On July 1, from 3 to 6:30 p.m., a Southside Farmers Market will open at Santa Fe Place (corner of Zafarano and Rodeo) with a kickoff event featuring live music and cooking demonstrations. It will be held every Tuesday. Holders of SNAP cards will be given double tokens redeemable for produce at farmers’ stands, and WIC and Senior FMNP checks will also be accepted. Details: Paolo Speirn at 467-9792.

Taos Farmers Market: Launched in the early 1970s at 400 Camino de la Placita, 64

this market operates from mid-May until late October. Open Saturdays from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Details: Mary Dambacker, 575-751-7575.


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Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


Organic, grass-fed old breed beef, free-range chickens and turkey,

GOOD MEAT= BY DEBORAH MADISON Vegetables have long been the focus of farmers markets for countless communities, including Santa Fe. These markets have brought attention to produce now sometimes found at general supermarkets and done much to stimulate a renaissance of sorts in small farming. But today it’s meat’s turn to come to the fore. Go to the Santa Fe Farmers Market and you’ll find it’s possible to bring home beef, pork, yak, bison, lamb, chicken (including the amazing Label Rouge birds) and rabbit, along with vegetables, breads, cheeses, goat’s milk, raw milk, chiles, herbs, eggs and so very much more. The quality of the meat is generally high, though variable; that it’s available here is something a great many people appreciate. As with vegetables and their growers, having contact with ranchers gives customers a chance to ask about their products. What’s important to you? Are their meats free of GMOs (genetically modified organisms), were antibiotics and growth hormones used, are they grass-fed and grass-finished or not, are the chickens truly ranging around, are they certified by anyone to be what they claim, were heirloom breeds used, how far did they travel to get to us? Just because meat is in the farmers market doesn’t mean that it’s one thing or another, which is why you have to ask. But it does mean that meat is raised nearby — it has to be, to be in the farmers market — and that fact alone offers us a way to keep in touch with our landscape and its weather, drought and shifts in our climate patterns. We might learn that drought has a devastating effect on the price of lamb or beef when costly hay has to replace the homegrown grass that livestock might otherwise feed on. Among other things, local foods — meats and vegetables both — serve as an index to what’s going on around us. The farmers market is not the only source of local or high-quality meats. The Southwest Grassfed Livestock Alliance — SWGLA, pronounced “swigla” — has been working with ranchers for the past 10 years in the Four Corners states (plus Kansas and Texas) to introduce consumers to the idea of buying meat on the hoof and to the taste of omega-3-rich, grass-fed beef. Director Laurie Bower notes, “We work with ranchers and farmers of all kinds, from ones transitioning to sell more livestock to their local market, to multi-ranch cooperatives and nationwide marketers who sell to major retail outlets and who may carry organic certifications. There is no other organization like ours that works with so many ranchers in the Southwest. And many people believe the healthiest, highest-quality grass-fed beef may come from this region due to the nutritional content and diversity of our range grasses, coupled with the wide-open, spacious living conditions for the animals.” 66

SWGLA sponsored two tasting events in Santa Fe that introduced many consumers to regional ranchers and their beef. If you go to the SWGLA website and click on “Where to Buy,” then select New Mexico, you’ll find more than 25 ranchers spread throughout the state. Some provide only contact information, but others describe what they raise and sell and how it’s sold (as wholes, halves, quarters and cuts). Nancy Ranney, board president of the 18,000-acre Ranney Ranch in Corona (, sells halves and whole animals. But when it comes to cuts, she says, “It’s very challenging for customers to understand the trade-offs. For example, if you request a standing rib roast, you cannot also get the rib eyes or rib steaks; you must select one of the three. Or if you hanker for New York strips and filet mignon, you cannot also have the T-bones, as the strips and filet come off of the T-bone. There’s some confusion of terminology from region to region and from processor to processor. For instance, the porterhouse steak, not routinely offered here, is essentially an oversized T-bone and thicker.” The initial cost of buying beef (or lamb) on the hoof can seem overwhelming, until you figure it out. Then you see that you’re getting a great deal on certified grass-fed beef. At one time, many families had meat lockers at home because they often bought in bulk, and they’d just visit their deep freezers when they wanted meat. Home meat lockers are mostly gone now, but perhaps they’ll come back. While grass-fed beef is thought of as being a high-end food, Ranney says her bulk customers are not high-end consumers. “Those who tend not to bother with a freezer, planning ahead and thawing, will purchase individual cuts as needed. But many customers are middle-income families looking for a healthy product at a reasonable cost.” Would-be customers tend to think that buying a whole beef means one will arrive at your door in that form and then be draped across a too-small counter for you to cut up. But not to fear: It will come in a box of neatly wrapped and labeled packages, frozen and ready to go into your freezer. Rancher Trudi Kretsinger from the San Luis Valley of Colorado has a different approach to selling her top-end grass-fed beef. She sells frozen cuts every six weeks at different locations in New Mexico. One of her drop-off points is in Santa Fe, and two others are in Albuquerque. You order what you want on her website, ( and pick it up at the designated location. “The delivery is kind of like a combination drug deal/family reunion,” she explains. “We meet at the designated delivery site and time. We bring you meat (frozen); you give us cash or checks.” Kretsinger’s thick, tender rib steaks are amazingly delicious and tender, but she says she is more a fan of the chuck and other roasts. “We never eat steaks,


local rabbits, goats, pigs and more — now coming to a market near you.

GOOD EATS unless they’re mislabeled or there’s a hole in a package we can’t sell,” she tells me. “Some of my best customers are vegetarians — people who didn’t eat meat because they couldn’t find the quality that they wanted. Our beef is often the choice for vegetarians at the time they choose to break their meat fast. It is from animals who are honored. We give thanks for what they have given us and the land, and we honor them with the decisions we make regarding every stage of their life, from what we grow for them to eat to how we have them processed. It is a worthy and enjoyable collaboration.” Members of the Sweet Grass Cooperative, Kretsinger and her husband, John, raise an early-maturing breed of beef bred by co-op partner George Whitten. Sweet Grass sells to Santa Fe’s La Montañita Co-op, among others, but Kretsinger says she saves her best beef for her own sales. While most beef shoppers continue to look for favorite cuts, she reports that she’s seen a huge shift to bones and organ meats of all kinds, often selling out. “Some of this is for dogs, of course, but my customers have learned the value of making bone stocks and eating organ meats. I’m so proud of them!” It’s hard to find bones and organ meats in Santa Fe, but you can order them from Kretsinger Beef. Many other local and regional ranchers are jumping on the bandwagon. Tim Willms of Talus Wind Ranch near Galisteo ( sells his lamb to Whole Foods, which is now also dealing with another local ranching family, the Lasaters of Mattheson, Colo. (, and the Parks Spring Ranch near Anton Chico, for their special Beefmaster cattle, created decades ago from cross-breeding of Shorthorn, Hereford and Brahman. The connections grow. Socorro-based poultry producer Tom Delehanty of Pollo Real (www. has, after a long year in the making, recently opened The Real Butcher Shop in Santa Fe’s Alameda Center ( Here he sells his own amazing, organic, free-range French Label Rouge chickens (he also sells them at the farmers’ market), exquisite raw-milk cheeses, heirloom breeds of pork, breads made with heirloom wheats and other grains, and much more. The beef he’s selling is, at this time, from Panorama Organic Grass-Fed Meats, a business that works with ranchers all over the West and Kansas and Nebraska. Panorama’s production manager for the Rocky Mountain region is Rick Kingsbury, a person familiar to many from the days when he sold his own Highlander beef at the Santa Fe Farmers Market. While the meat Kingsbury sources for The Real Butcher Shop may not all be from the local market, he explains that the Panorama ranches are small and he has to have many to draw from to meet the demand. The beef is certified third-party organic and grassfinished. The cattle are never fed grain or animal byproducts or given drugs,

growth hormones or antibiotics. The shop can also break down the whole animals, so if you’re wanting a particular cut, talk to them about it. The Real Butcher Shop also plans on smoking their own pork belly. And in addition to meat, Delehanty also plans to sell locally grown vegetables and vegan stocks made from them. Who says we can’t mix it up? Fortunately we can have both — high-quality produce and high-quality animal foods — right here in Santa Fe.

ABOUT THE WRITER Deborah Madison of Galisteo was the founding chef at the trendsetting Greens restaurant in San Francisco and is a cooking instructor and writer. She has penned articles for Gourmet, Saveur, Food & Wine, Orion, Vegetarian Times and many other periodicals. She is also a renowned cookbook author. Her last book was titled Vegetable Literacy: Cooking and Gardening with Twelve Families from the Edible Plant Kingdom (Ten Speed Press, 2013), which takes a close look at the edible members of 12 botanical families that we often cook and eat. It includes 300 recipes incorporating everything from herbs to seeds, vegetables to wild plants. It was named best cookbook in the Health & Special Diet category at the International Association of Culinary Professionals Awards in March 2014. Just out is The New Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone (Ten Speed Press, March 2014), an updated version of Madison’s prizewinning 1997 cookbook Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone. The revision features ingredients not commonly available in the late 1990s, old classics and 150 new recipes, and a beautiful new cover and inside design.

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico





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Aboubakar Fofana (Photo © Bob Smith; Courtesy of IFAA)

A Program of

International Folk Art Alliance

The Work of Art

Meet the World in Santa Fe!

International Folk Art Market | Santa Fe July 11,12, & 13, 2014

Featuring more than 150 master folk artists from around the world.

Tickets on Sale Now! Visit to buy online. Tickets also available at the Museum of New Mexico Shops & Los Alamos National Banks or by calling 505.886.1251 The International Folk Art Market is a program of the International Folk Art Alliance, a tax-exempt, 501(c)3 nonprofit organization in partnership with the New Mexico Department of Cultural Affairs, Museum of International Folk Art, Museum of New Mexico Foundation, and City of Santa Fe. Partially funded by the City of Santa Fe Arts Commission and the 1% Lodgers’Tax and the County of Santa Fe Lodgers’Tax.

Santa Fe Trails




American literature in the field of natural history and conservation has a legacy of great writers such as Henry David Thoreau, John Muir, Barry Commoner, Wallace Stegner, Barry Lopez, Ed Abbey and Peter Matthiessen. Surprisingly, New Mexico has contributed several prominent conservation writers, including Aldo Leopold and Ernest Thompson Seton. It is also home today to many extraordinary voices, men and women who explore the beauty and power of our natural world as well as the perils facing it. Here’s a look at three of them.

JOHN NICHOLS John Nichols is best known for his works of fiction, including The Sterile Cuckoo and the wickedly funny and perceptive The Milagro Beanfield War (which was made into a wonderful film directed by Robert Redford), but he has devoted much of his writing career to nonfiction, with a heavy emphasis on works delving deeply into the natural realm of his adopted homelands around Taos. It almost seems preordained. In a recent conversation begun in a Taos restaurant and concluded in his Spartan, weathered home jammed with books and papers that document almost every aspect of his life, Nichols noted, “I grew up with naturalists. My grandfather was the curator of recent fishes at the American Museum of Natural History for forty years or so, and my dad was a serious naturalist, ornithologist and zoologist. I wrote stories as a kid and made drawings that were related to all of this. I was surrounded by people who were teaching me about the natural world and had a real stake in it. Every time we’d take a walk, they’d say, ‘This is a cedar tree, this is a twisted stalk flower; that bird we just heard over there is a red-eyed vireo, and that heron that just took off is a little green heron, blah, blah, blah.’ You develop a familiarity and a sympathy.” His first major literary success, however, came with The Sterile Cuckoo, published in 1965 when Nichols was 24. Though it brought the young author a measure of fame, he said he was “politicized pretty rapidly and pretty heavily by the Vietnam War,” and he wanted to leave New York City for a rural area where he could pursue writing and his preoccupation with social change and justice. He’d spent several weeks in Taos when he was 16. “It was like something out of another world to me, and fascinating,” he recalled, and so, with his wife and first child, Nichols moved to Taos in 1969. “I figured we could come out here and continue to play a valuable role in organizing in a place where it was needed. I’ve never been interested in places that are homogeneous. I was raised sort of New England Puritan and went to a prep school and college that were effectively all-white and all-male, but my family was tri-cultural. My mother was of French heritage and spoke five or 70


six languages, and my dad spoke fluent Russian and Spanish and some Chinese.” He quickly became active in the local struggles, and from that grew The Milagro Beanfield War and its two companion books, The Magic Journey and The Nirvana Blues. And, the land itself began to exert a powerful influence over the author. He honed his skills as a hunter, became a devoted hiker, and transitioned from a salmon egg fisherman to a



devoted fly-fisherman, plying the raging waters of the Rio Grande Box and tiny high alpine streams. “I couldn’t shoot for beans and was never really interested in bringing home a lot of meat,” he explained. “I especially loved grouse hunting, which required hiking for hours and hours and maybe getting off a few shots. That’s my kind of hunting. It’s a wonderful way to really know a territory and understand what it’s all about. Initially the land just seems to have one color or form, but then you begin to know the pieces — this plant is osha, this is angelica, that rock outcrop is basalt. I didn’t come out knowing how incredible New Mexico would be, vis-à-vis the land, but I quickly began to learn.” As Nichols came to know his new home, it emerged in his writing, and he produced a number of excellent books detailing the local environment — sometimes paired with his own photographs, as in the black-and-white images in On the Mesa or lovely color photos in The Sky’s the Limit: A Defense of the Earth. Consuming rows of books on natural history and the environment, closely studying his local situation and being a man who pointedly questions authority has led Nichols to become an impassioned, articulate and even fierce defender of nature. In The Sky’s the Limit, he writes, “Today two of our most important economic tenets are still planned obsolescence and conspicuous consumption. Things in demand are built to fall apart: resources are meant to be wasted rather than conserved … and we are brainwashed to believe that in this consumption lies not only great profit but also our spiritual fulfillment. … All of us have always been held captive by the health of the biological capital upon which we totally depend for survival. But few of us are truly aware of it … blithely, with no malicious forethought, we help kill everything that sustains us. … Where I live there still exist cultures that praise the land and try to exist in harmony with it. They are living examples of the ‘before’ and therefore important teachers for our return, in the future, to the more viable equilibriums of the past.” And in his writing, he pays homage to the forces of nature that will outlive humanity. In Dancing on the Stones, a collection of essays previously published in national and regional magazines, he states, “Water is the one true power and glory that defines our universe of life. … Water gave rise to the only living web we’ll ever know, and water created my active imagination. Consciousness and soul owe their incredible being to every drop of moisture that ever fell from a cloud and awakened a spadefoot toad, called forth a mosquito or birthed a dragonfly.” John Nichols’ newest book, a novel, is On Top of Spoon Mountain (University of New Mexico Press, 2012). For additional details on his life and books, see his funny, irreverent and informative website, www.


does not come close to reflecting the lyrical, sensitive and insightful writing he has accomplished over the years in such books as The Walk (Trinity University Press, 2007), which details his close association with his land and the surrounding area in the village of El Valle on the Trampas River, hard against the Sangre de Cristo mountains. He “discovered” El Valle in 1975 via a friend, fellow author and photographer Alex Harris, who had first arrived in New Mexico, like deBuys, as a research assistant for writer and social critic Robert Coles. In an early-spring conversation at Santa Fe’s great bookstore, Collected Works, deBuys said, “I don’t know who I’d be if that had not happened. The connection to that land and place, and the education from the land and my neighbors — particularly Jacobo Romero — were invaluable. I’ve had great teachers — including Coles and William Goetzmann, who was a great historian and mentor in graduate school at UT Austin — but Jacobo is perhaps higher than them all. And, the place itself was kind of a mentor to me, just by being on the land and irrigating it, trying to learn how to be a good steward of it and understand its dynamics.” He feels this fed both his intellectual, brain-heavy analysis of the sociopolitical situation but that it also served to “educate my heart. One hopes as one grows and develops over time that the heart and the

WILLIAM DEBUYS William deBuys has been tagged as an “environmental historian” based largely on the acclaim of his first book, Enchantment and Exploitation: The Life and Hard Times of a New Mexico Mountain Range (University of New Mexico Press, 1985), which is still in print almost 30 years after its initial publication; and his recent powerhouse, A Great Aridness: Climate Change and the Future of the American Southwest (Oxford University Press, 2011). But the academic label Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico



brain progress together.” DeBuys’ immersion into El Valle led first to Enchantment and Exploitation, which began as a book, then became his doctoral thesis and once again a book; and then to another outstanding work, River of Traps: A Village Life (first released by the University of New Mexico Press in conjunction with the Center for Documentary Studies at Duke University in 1990; then reissued by Trinity University Press in 2008). With wonderful black-and-white photos by Harris, it was nominated for a Pulitzer Prize in nonfiction and has been a New York Times Notable Book of the Year. Then came Salt Dreams: Land and Water in Low-Down California (University of New Mexico Press, 1999), which applied his same eye for detail with threads to processes and trends at work on a regional and global scale. “In my college years,” he said, “I wanted to be able to write stories in which the land wasn’t just a stage on which people acted out their fates, but where the land was an actual character in the story that shaped the plot and was affected by the outcome. I didn’t know how that would play out. I tried writing fiction and wasn’t very good at it. But when I arrived in New Mexico and continued to try to find my voice as a writer, it turned out I became an environmental historian. Then another teacher entered my life, the first horse I bought: King, the Wonder Horse. Riding around the area brought me in contact with the land and people, and I got very involved in local environmental issues, from wood-cutting and managing the acequia (he remains the treasurer today) to range management. Basically I’ve tried to 72

write about what’s been foremost on my mind.” DeBuys’ active involvement in environmental affairs is outlined on his website. Among other roles, from 1982 to 1986 he directed the North Carolina chapter of The Nature Conservancy, and from 1997 to 2004 he developed and directed the Valle Grande Grass Bank, a cooperative effort involving ranchers, conservationists and public agencies in the rehabilitation of rangelands in the Jemez Mountains. From 2001 to 2004, he served as founding chairman of the Valles Caldera Trust. In February 2015, Little, Brown will release deBuys’ next book, The Last Unicorn: A Search for One of Earth’s Rarest Creatures, which documented his search as part of a team in 2009 for the endangered saola of Laos (a type of long-horned antelope). He describes it as “an investigation into the field of extinction. Structurally, it’s very much like The Snow Leopard (by Peter Matthiessen, who passed away April 5), which is a book I adored and had a big influence on me in the 1970s. So, I’m branching out a little bit.” But not too far. The fate of the world’s biomes, its flora and fauna remains dear to his heart. “I say I’m intellectually a pessimist but neurochemically an optimist. Every sunrise is beautiful; the world is astounding. But it is a tragedy that the debate on climate change has become part of the so-called culture wars. It’s become a matter of belief — a political, ideological identification — instead of an empirical, science-driven issue. Most sociologists conclude that people change their opinions about major issues not because of what they hear from the media or authors, but rather [because of ] what they hear from


friends and family over the kitchen table. So I’m not sure a book will change a person’s opinion, but if it gives people the ability to have those kitchen conversations in a more informed way, it helps. You keep pushing, not because you think you will reach the finish line, but because it’s the right thing to do.” Will this include more writing? “I’m not sure I will ever end my writing career,” deBuys concluded. “In the back of my mind are some ideas for fiction, so who knows? One day I may turn my hand to that. I don’t know how many big projects I have left in me, but I will probably keep scribbling til the bitter end, until I can’t.” For more on William deBuys and his life in conservation and writing, see

STANLEY CRAWFORD Nichols and deBuys are inspired, guided and renewed by their exposure to the natural world, but Stanley Crawford is actually into it up to his muddy knees. Since the early 1970s, Crawford and his wife, RoseMary, have made a tough and hard-won living from small-scale farming in the village of Dixon. They draw their irrigation water from one of the many acequias of the Rio Embudo, study the portents of cloud and sun, and observe the comings and goings of wildlife and flora on their 3-acre plot. To them, nature is the fiber of their being, and for Crawford, it is now the raw material of his career as a writer. In 1988, the University of New Mexico published his first book of nonfiction, Mayordomo: Chronicle of an Acequia in Northern New Mexico, which presents a moving account of the practical problems of operating an irrigation ditch in Northern New Mexico. An acequia, like a backbone of a community or its blood supply, reaches across all social and economic strata, and thus this modest book has become a classic on life in the region. As with Nichols and deBuys, Crawford’s life would have been entirely different had he not ended up here. On a recent unseasonably warm spring day on their farm, Crawford explained, “I began as a fiction writer and met RoseMary on Crete in June 1967. I’d been living and writing in Europe for four years and was ready to return to the U.S. We were in the middle of the war in Vietnam and political polarization; it felt like the end of the world, and like many others, we wanted to get back to the land, grow things and take care of our own lives.” A friend, Joe Bonner, who’d worked on the Whole Earth Catalog (a hugely influential guide to practical living at the time), had come to New Mexico to be with Ram Dass (the philosopher, writer and spiritual teacher). “Joe was living here in Dixon at what they called the Nucoa Ranch. In 1969, we came out and camped on the property for a few weeks. We decided this was the spot and found a rental property a few miles away,” Crawford said. In 1971, they found their present property and bought it. At the time, Crawford was making his way as a novelist. First, in 1966, came Gascoyne (reissued by Overlook in 2005 and described by The New York Times as “a mad fantasia of the Freeway Age”), then in 1967 Travel Notes (reissued by Calamari Press, 2014). In New Mexico he soon finished what he calls “the best thing I ever wrote,” the Log of the S.S. The Mrs Unguentine (Knopf, 1972; reissued by Dalkey Press, 2008). Another novel, Some Instructions (Knopf ), followed six years later, but Crawford found his writing taking a new direction. “We were building our home, launching the farm and raising a family. I found it all so exciting, more so than anything I could make up, so in the late 1970s I began to try to write about it. I had an Australian friend come visit, Alister Brass, who’s both a doctor and a writer, and I took him on a walk to show him

the acequia. He said, ‘Stanley, you should write about this.’ I said, ‘I know enough to write about it, but not how.’ The next day I began to really pay attention to the work being done — the cleaning of the ditch, the way the men spoke to one another and all the little details involved — and a couple of days later, I wrote up the day. Then every time I worked on the ditch, I’d write it up.” These musings eventually became Mayordomo. The book won a Western States Book Award and Crawford had a new genre on his writing desk. A Garlic Testament: Seasons on a Small New Mexico Farm (HarperCollins, 1992) focused on their farm and main crop, garlic, and the four seasons on the land. The River in Winter (University of New Mexico Press, 2003) is a collection of essays, ranging from Crawford’s writing rooms over the years to creatures and their habitats, the interplay of cottonwoods and juniper woodlands, and the rise and fall of their river. And he hopes to have another collection of essays, tentatively titled The Manual: Earth, Crops, Tools, Machines and the Manual Life ready any day for University of New Mexico Press. But he has also continued to write fiction — Petroleum Man was released in 2006 by Overlook Press, UNM press will release The Canyon in 2015, and pending are Seed and Intimacy. In addition to farming, family and writing, Crawford played a major role in the establishment of the Santa Fe Farmers Market, the construction of the Farmers Market Pavilion at the Railyard, and the now-flourishing small-town farmers markets in Dixon and other regional communities. He is a tireless worker bee. The recipient of two National Endowment for the Arts writing fellowships and a three-year Lila Wallace — Reader’s Digest Writers Award, he continues to teach writing at Colorado College and in the past taught at the University of Massachusetts Amherst MFA Writing Program, at the University of New Mexico and at the Institute of American Indian Arts. But writing is the soul of the man. “I think being a witness to your time and telling your own story is my main motivation,” he summed up. “The general trends in the natural world are ghastly. But you can’t live that way, ruled by doom and gloom. That’s where the farm, and helping to build this community, helps restore my faith. Dixon is a good model for learning about working together and working the land. And I believe we all need to do something to help.” Daniel Gibson grew up in the North Valley of Albuquerque, playing in ditch waters drawn from the Rio Grande. The University of New Mexico graduate served as editor of Native Peoples magazine for 12 years and has written several books, including the popular Pueblos of the Rio Grande: A Visitor’s Guide. His book Kevin Red Star: Crow Indian Artist will be released in August from Gibbs Smith. For years he has bought his seed garlic from Stanley Crawford, and he treasures the signed copy of Mayordomo his mother bought him in 1988.

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico



Acequias nurture both land and customs of El Norte STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY DON USNER

I was a long way from home and yet felt that everything around me was oddly familiar. There at the magnificent Alhambra in Granada, Spain, the tiled roofs and whitewashed walls, the ornate ceilings and horseshoe archways — not to mention the intricate Arabic calligraphy in the golden stucco — resembled not at all the flat-roofed, brown-stuccoed adobes of New Mexico. But the dry air and the wideopen blue sky evoked the ampleness of light and space that I so love about the Southwestern U.S. And here I was in the Patio de la Acequia, a place whose name rings with familiar words of the Spanish spoken back home in Chimayó. 74



Above, Ditch workers, Acequia de la Cañada Ancha, Chimayó, 2014. Facing page, Acequia de la Cañada Ancha, Chimayó, 2010. Below left, John Trujillo, Acequia de los Ortegas, ca. 1995. Right, Mercedes Trujillo, Acequia de la Cañada Ancha, ca. 1989.

I grew up among many acequias, those small, winding waterways that bring life to the gardens and orchards in Chimayó and all over New Mexico and southern Colorado. These, like the acequia in the Alhambra and others in Spain, have their origins in Arabic North Africa during a time when much of Europe convulsed with the traumas of the Middle Ages. Then, engineers and laborers under Islamic caliphates designed and built as-sāqiyas to channel water to the agricultural lands and towns spread throughout the flourishing Islamic world. Acequias, along with the associated body of formal, written water law and the word “acequia” itself, reached the Iberian peninsula in the early eighth century C.E. and later came to the New World with the Spanish colonization of the Americas. It’s hard to imagine this vaunted history when you’re bent over a shovel, heaving mud and sand from a dry ditch under the warmth of the New Mexican spring sun. Yet this is a ritual that goes on each year in Northern New Mexico, as it has since 1599, when the first Spanish colonists founded their regional capital, San Gabriel. Digging the acequia was a defining act in the establishment of Spanish and Mexican communities throughout New Mexico, including the plazas in Santa Fe, Albuquerque and Mesilla, for the next 200 years. Sometimes, this entailed scraping out the acequia with wooden hand tools through rocky terrain for many miles from distant mountains, where they diverted waters from snowmelt-fed streams. The springtime custom of sacando la acequia (clearing the ditch), remains one of the primary markers of the annual calendar in New Mexico, a time when the land and people turn the corner Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


from a long winter and embrace the promise of spring. I’ve taken part in this backbreaking, ditch-cleaning ritual a few times, but not often, as I am not and have never been a farmer. And in this respect, you might say I’m part of the problem facing acequias in New Mexico today: Many people live on but do not live off the land, and so they have little incentive to take care of the acequias. As a result, many ditches have fallen into disrepair and some have been abandoned. On the other hand, I love fresh chile from small

Modesto Vigil and family, irrigating with the Acequia de los Martínez, Chimayó, ca. 2004.

New Mexico farms, and I’ll pay a premium price for it, and in this sense I am part of the solution. A growing appreciation for locally grown produce, including old time chile varieties, as well as corn, bean, squash and other vegetables and fruits, is prompting something of a renaissance of small-scale agriculture — and a resurgence of interest in maintaining and using the old acequias.

Huertas, mayordomos, parciantes y mas The move away from agriculture began long ago in my family. My greatgrandfather José de los Reyes Ortega was a farmer in Chimayó, just like all his neighbors, and he used water from the Ortega acequia to grow chile, corn, beans and melons in the patchwork of fields that stretched from the Plaza del Cerro to the rocky foothills of the mountains. But as industrialization forced legions of young men nationwide to scramble far and wide for work, Reyes instead made his first steps away from his largely agrarian world by weaving blankets for tourists in Santa Fe and founding a weaving shop in Chimayó. The retreat from farming as a way of life and toward cities intensified after Reyes’ generation and has continued until today. Small huertas (garden plots) and orchards are still part of the landscape and still figure prominently into the character of northern communities. But in many places, the acequia has become more of an historic artifact than an essential source of water, and many fields sprout trailer homes instead of chile fields. Estevan Arrellano, a farmer who has also been a comisionado (commissioner) and a mayordomo (ditch boss) on the Acequia Junta y Cienega in Dixon, New Mexico, knows all too well the problems that afflict acequias throughout the state. He’s made it his business to try and preserve them, including the political organization and customs that go along with them. “We’re facing a lot of serious problems,” Arrellano acknowledges. “And we’ve already lost a lot of acequias — three or four here in the Embudo valley alone. First, there’s the basic demographics,” he explains. “The parciantes [member farmers] on my ditch — and on most ditches in New Mexico — are getting quite old, and we’re not getting any new blood. And then the new people moving in and buying land, they don’t always understand the way acequias are supposed to work. They think that paying their dues is all they have to do. Hardly anyone — old timers or newcomers — wants to come to meetings because they don’t want to be drafted to be mayordomo. And then they don’t want to follow the bylaws. They think they’re antiquated.” There is no arguing that the rules and customs of the acequias reach back 76

Cottonwoods along the Rio Quemado, Chimayó, ca. 1995.

into antiquity. But instead of a liability, Arrellano suggests that their vintage demonstrates how the acequia system has passed the test of time, by serving the needs of agricultural communities for a very long time. “Ours are the oldest water management rules of European origin in North America,” Arrellano says. “And they say that everyone on a watercourse has to share the water. But we have problems with people taking the water out of turn, or not paying dues, or even pumping right out of the river or the ditch. It’s hard to keep things working smoothly, especially since people don’t always respect the mayordomo anymore. Back in my youth, the mayordomo’s word was the law.” Twenty miles as the crow flies from Arrellano’s small Dixon farm, Sam Martinez faces some of the same challenges on his farm beside the Rio Chama. He is a commissioner on one acequia, a mayordomo on two, and a member of six. When I asked Sam how things were going on his ditches, he replied, “Well, so far everyone is cooperating to take care of the ditches and use them, and they pay their dues — even though sometimes you have to threaten to hit them over the head with a stick! But at the same time, it is getting tougher because people don’t want to farm anymore and they’re neglecting the land. It’s sort of sad, like in Tierra Azul, there’s only three of us who really care about the ditch, and one of the other two, ya esta muy viejita [is already very old] — and I’m getting that way, too — and nowadays, no hay chamacos que valen dos reales [There aren’t any young guys worth twenty-five cents!]. But I can’t blame them,” he acknowledges, “because the thing is, no hay dinero [there’s no money] in farming. You gotta have a second job. And now, they don’t want two jobs.” Sam also runs into other problems connected to much larger, regional issues. Much of his acreage lies just outside of Abiquiu, alongside the muddy waters of the Rio Chama. It would seem by the size of that major watercourse that Sam would never have to worry about having enough water, but in fact he sometimes


“We have to cooperate, all of us, because, like the old dicho [folk saying] says: Una mano lava la otra y las dos la cara.” One hand washes the other and the two of them wash the face.” Acequia del Distrito, Chimayó, 2010.

has to watch the river flow by while his acequias barely carry any water.

Two kinds of water “Yes, it looks like a lot of water, but you know what?” Sam lamented to me. “That looks like one river, but there’s two kinds of water in it — San JuanChama water, and the native water. We can only use the native water. We can’t touch the rest because it has to go on down to Santa Fe and Albuquerque.” Sam’s dilemma has its origins in a deal that was struck back in the 1960s, when city planners and farmers downriver on the Rio Grande feared a future with insufficient water for the growing populace. They hatched a plan to divert water from southern Colorado, pass it through tunnels beneath the mountains and dump it into the Chama at a new reservoir, Heron Lake. The San JuanChama project was one of many in the federal government’s elaborate, expensive scheme to dam and divert hundreds of rivers in the West and put their water to use for large-scale agriculture and urban development. “Anytime that the small tributaries of the Chama run really low, those of us in the Rio Chama Acequia Association have to be very careful about what we draw,” Sam explained. “Last year, for example, because the drought was so bad, we had to reduce our flows by half and shut off our ditches for twentyfour hours per week per ditch, so we wouldn’t be taking the San Juan-Chama water. And they monitor our diversions remotely, through a satellite link. We had a call last year about the Acequia Tierra Azul. They said, ‘Hey, you guys are exceeding your flow.’ So I had to run out there and cut back the diversion.” Because of the high-tech monitoring of water flow and the high-stakes water game that he must take part in, Sam does something that mayordomos of the past would never have dreamed of doing: “I start up my computer first thing in the morning and I check the Internet to see the flow coming into the Tierra Azul acequia — a gauge records the flow every 15 minutes — to see where we’re at and if I have to put on my boots and head for the headgate.” Things are much more low-tech in Chimayó, where Jody Apple is one of three people who share the responsibility of being mayordomo on the Acequia de los Ortegas. She, too, acknowledges many of the oft-repeated difficulties facing acequias, but she cites several reasons for her optimism about the Ortega acequia. “We are very fortunate,” she says, “because even though only nine or ten out of the thirty landowners on the ditch actually use the water, they’re all helping to keep it up. In fact, for the past four years, we haven’t had to hire labor to take care of it, like we had to before. Our acequia community

has gotten involved again. Still, it’s not easy. The maintenance needs are constant, especially on the upper ditch. Whenever it rains hard, the presa [diversion dam] washes out and we have to get people together to go out and fix it — again.” One of the motivations for keeping the Ortega acequia running is supplying water to Gemini Farms on Jody’s land. This organic farm, run by Bret Ellison and Alexis Elton, grows garlic, carrots, beets and brassicas. They use old and new irrigation technology in tandem to make their operation thrive, drawing water from the Ortega acequia into metal pipes with gates for each crop row. The Plaza del Cerro and its tiny Acequia de los Ortegas is a far cry from the sumptuous Patio de la Acequia in Spain, but both — as well as hundreds of other ditches in New Mexico and southern Colorado — have endured for many centuries. Yet, these far-flung waterways now collectively face what may be the greatest trial of all: coping with the warming temperatures and decreased moisture that are inevitable consequences of the climate change that is shaking up weather patterns worldwide. For this daunting challenge there is no easy solution. Although more efficient use of water clearly must be part of the response, the urgency of the situation demands more than technological fixes. In these trying times it would be wise to consider the land ethic that drives Sam Martinez and Estevan Arrellano to care for their farms and fields and for the water that nurtures them. As Sam puts it, “The land is just too precious, my friend, to sit by and watch it wither. We’ve got to take care of it.” “Yes,” echoes Arrellano. “And to do this, we have to cooperate, all of us, because, like the old dicho [folk saying] says: Una mano lava la otra y las dos la cara.” One hand washes the other and the two of them wash the face. Don Usner, who was born in Embudo, N.M. and grew up in Los Alamos and Chimayó, holds a master’s degree in geography from the University of New Mexico. He has written and provided photographs for several books, including Sabino’s Map: Life in Chimayó’s Old Plaza and the awardwinning Valles Caldera: A Vision for New Mexico’s National Preserve. He also splashed around in many an acequia as a child.

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico



What Santa Fe Baldy looks like in a “good” winter — in this case 1998. During much of the past few years, it has been largely bare during winter.

THE MELTING SNOWPACK OF THE SANGRE DE CRISTOS When you dive into a river, stream or lake, you are really plunging into last winter’s snowfall, as this search for the headwaters reveals BY CHRISTOPHER WHITE The vitality of the Rio Grande begins with snow. The “big river” commences at Canby Mountain in the rugged San Juan range of southwestern Colorado, fed at its source by meltwater from snow. Yet something has changed with the river today. Once racing 1,850 miles to the Gulf of Mexico, today it sometimes doesn’t even reach the ocean, and it averages only 20 percent of its traditional discharge at its mouth. River-watchers warn the reason is twofold: First, overuse by cities and farms has drained the river. Second, the Rio Grande has less water coming into its drainage basin. We have less precipitation — and thus less river flow — due to an 11-year drought. It seems water is wanting at both ends. On March 25, 2014, the National Weather Service in Albuquerque released 78

a report stating, “Over 97 percent of the State [of New Mexico] is in moderate to extreme drought … . The first two months of 2014 were the driest on record, with only 16 percent of normal precipitation, for a statewide average accumulation of just 0.2 inches.” In one of its weekly snowpack reports issued in early spring, the National Water and Climate Center of the Natural Resources Conservation Service in Albuquerque (NRCS), an arm of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, noted that snowpack levels in the Upper Rio Grande Basin (predominantly the San Juan Mountains) and the Sangre de Cristos was about 80 percent of the average over the past 30 years. Data on snowpack going back further is not as complete, but anecdotal evidence indicates even steeper declines in snowpack over the past century.


Looking down on the broad Rio Grande Valley, I realized that Santa Fe Baldy had become a barometer of climate change. How white its dome is in winter translates to how healthy the Rio Grande is. The waning snowpack means less water for the rio, city, flora, fauna and farmers, and fewer snowshoe tracks for me. In good years, seasonal snowfields in the San Juans and Sangres will remain into late summer, but neither range has permanent snowfields or glaciers. In a June 2013 report from the organization New Mexico Water Dialogue (compiled by Arizona Water Resource) titled “Drought Along the Rio Grande Highlights Water Management Complexities,” it is noted, “Climate projections described in a Bureau of Reclamation Report to Congress suggest that temperatures throughout the [Rio Grande] basin could increase by 5 to 6 degrees, while annual precipitation will remain variable with a decrease of 2.3 to 2.5 percent by 2050. This would cause a decrease in the river’s average annual runoff by 7.3 to 14.4 percent.” The same document also says, “Drought conditions have afflicted the entire Rio Grande Basin since 2002. But the past three years have been particularly dismal, with two consecutive winters of reduced storm activity and snowfall in Colorado and Northern New Mexico. Snowmelt from the higher elevations is the major source of water for this river, but during the winter of 2012-13, precipitation was only 45 percent of average.” I had experienced our unusually hot and dry summers and read of declining snowfall and snowpack in the area. Yet I was not convinced that drought had also curtailed snowpack in the mountains to such a degree. Looking up, I could see the slopes above town were often not their old solid blanket of white. But what about farther into the highest country of the Pecos Wilderness? Surely the Truchas Peaks, Pecos Baldy and other summits must have lots of snow, I thought. Thus, a couple of years ago, I decided to take a look for myself for signs of our winter droughts and set off on a midwinter climb to the summit of Santa Fe Baldy (12,622 feet), the highest peak near the city, the queen of the Santa Fe range. On the first Friday of February, I stepped onto the Winsor Trail at the foot of Ski Santa Fe just before dawn. The trail toward Baldy was well trod with cross-country ski tracks, so I marched ahead in my boots, my snowshoes and crampons lashed to the pack. Out of habit, I held my ice axe at the ready, my trusted companion on climbs of Rainier, Denali and Mont Blanc. The first couple of hours were exhilarating, hiking through aspens and glistening snowpack. The winter light poured through the woods at a low angle, like a sluice of gold ore, accentuating the shades of white and yellow — bark, lichen and snow. My thermometer registered 8 degrees. The quiet was the stillness of a frozen desert. In a ravine, next to a meadow blanketed with snow, a familiar noise reached me: the bubbling of a mountain stream under ice. This watercourse, fed by a lake and melting snowpack, was Nambé Creek, a tributary of the Rio Grande. Throughout the Sangre de Cristos, hundreds of alpine streams wander like capillaries into mountain ravines, where they feed on the snow of slope and summit. But after years of reduced snowfall and rain, some of the capillaries are running close to dry. This affects the main artery, the Rio Grande, which furnishes water for 5 million people downstream. Above Nambé Creek, cliffs bordered the trail, but I was still within the sub-alpine forest. The powder was not deep — only up to my knees. Ten years before when I ventured this high, I was dependent on snowshoes. Back then, snow covered the mountains like a wool cape, each shoulder wrapped in white. On Baldy, snowshoes had been my salvation. As I climbed higher, passing the 11,000-foot mark, the snow was no thicker. I was surprised: The colder, higher elevations usually produce and hold more snow, but the sky was as blue as a

robin’s egg, as it had been for weeks. I pulled off my Gore-Tex jacket and tied it around my waist. Soon I passed the tree line, the edge of the spruce-fir forest standing like a row of sentinels behind me. The landscape here was mostly snow and exposed rock with isolated patches of ice. But a few pioneer trees had staked an outpost here and there. Up ahead, a dozen short spruce trees, each barely 2 feet tall, had colonized a single pocket filled with windblown snow. Or so I thought. As I navigated among them, the ground beneath my feet gave way. I tumbled into darkness. Beneath the snow was a cave. I slowly realized that the “saplings” above me were actually the top branches of grown spruce trees covered in ice and snow. I climbed up the branches of the closest spruce and belly-flopped like an arctic seal onto the firm crust of the surface. My episode of cognitive dissonance left me shaken. Rock-strewn switchbacks dominated the next stretch of the climb. For all the bare patches, it could have been spring. In less than an hour, I reached Windy Corner, the next saddle and the point of departure for the summit. After a little French bread, hard salami and Jarlsberg cheese, I turned to attack the summit ridge. I didn’t bother with crampons, usually a mainstay for a winter summit bid. The ridge was all rock — bare granite, no ice. In another hour, I stood on the summit, which was adorned with a huge rock cairn built by summer climbers. Except for a smattering of white, Santa Fe’s highest peak had earned a new meaning — a new dimension — to its name: bald, even in winter. Looking down on the broad Rio Grande Valley, I realized that Santa Fe Baldy had become a barometer of climate change. How white its dome is in winter translates to how healthy the Rio Grande is. The waning snowpack means less water for the rio, city, flora, fauna and farmers, and fewer snowshoe tracks for me. Science writer, filmmaker and naturalist Christopher White of Santa Fe is the author of The Melting World: A Journey Across America’s Vanishing Glaciers (St. Martin’s Press, 2013; 288 pages, $26.99). Alpine glaciers are disappearing around the globe, as in Glacier National Park, which has lost 80 percent of its glaciers. In this book, White follows two alpine ecologists into the Rocky Mountains to explore the causes of the park’s glacier loss and the impacts downstream, from the spread of wildfires and extinctions of fish and wildlife to diminishing water reserves. The New York Times Book Review called the book “a fascinating outdoor adventure, an illuminating look into the science of a melting mountain — and a fresh warning that the warming world is already here.” Bill McKibben, author of The End of Nature, describes it as “An act of witness to a disappearing world, and an implicit call to action to save what we can … .” For further information, visit

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


WATER IN RIVERS — WHAT A CONCEPT! BY NELSON DENMAN “Our rivers and streams are the lifeblood of our arid landscapes—more than seventy-five percent of all fish and wildlife depend on our waterways during some part of their life cycle. We’ve dammed them, diverted their waters and grazed their banks to the point that these arteries of life are now on life support. We need a new vision for our waterways that recognizes that healthy rivers are vital for healthy communities.” — JOHN HORNING, EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, WILDEARTH GUARDIANS

In-stream flow, the concept of keeping water flowing in its natural channels (streams and rivers) to preserve the ecological conditions of the waterway and its flanking lands, is an increasingly important and controversial subject in New Mexico and the West as a whole. Water is life in the dry Southwest, and as drought conditions persist, maintaining some water in our waterways is crucial if we want these fragile ecosystems to survive. Flowing water helps to nourish riparian areas alongside rivers and streams, providing habitat for a huge range of plant life, trees, animals and insects. It replenishes and recharges underground aquifers and provides opportunities for fishing and boating. It provides critical moisture in a land increasingly faced with less snowpack and hotter, drier conditions, enhancing quality of life for everyone and everything. The history of sharing stream flows is nothing new; people have been sharing — and fighting — over water for as long as there have been human communities. But as population and demand for consumptive uses of water increase, the need for comprehensive restorative action is becoming paramount. “It’s a sad statement about New Mexico’s history and politics that state law doesn’t provide our rivers with a legal right to their own waters,” notes John Horning, executive director of the notable Santa Fe–based conservation organization WildEarth Guardians. “We need to remedy this oversight and secure flows for all our rivers.” A recent article in the Journal of Agricultural and Resource Economics states, “In the case of fully appropriated river systems, maintaining minimum in-stream flows is often in conflict with long-standing diversions to irrigated agriculture and rapidly growing municipal demands. However, across the West, there is accumulating evidence of the benefits of protecting in-stream flows.” So, how can we provide minimum in-stream flows to protect biodiversity, habitat and endangered species, as well as support aquifer recharge and recreation, while still providing sufficient water for agriculture, ranching and urban demands? Water conservation seems an obvious place to start. One innovative idea is the use of rooftop catchment systems to capture rain and snowfall, reducing 80

the need to take that water from rivers and aquifers. In Australia, new homes in many states are required to construct rooftop catchment as part of the permit process. Landscape construction of swales and berms and terraces built on contour helps retain water, providing habitat for plants and animals and allowing aquifers to recharge. Graywater reuse and limiting water consumption through low-flow toilets and other similar conservation tools also should be implemented, note numerous authorities. The complex issue of in-stream flow can pit conservationists against farmers and cities. Water withdrawals by farmers and cities, often first in line to obtain the precious liquid through prior-use agreements, can have a catastrophic effect on creeks, streams and rivers. These entities may not recognize the need to keep a minimal amount of water in natural waterways. Some farmers and ranchers have taken the lead in preserving riparian areas and their in-stream flows. The ranch of Brian and Nicole King, in Watrous, N.M., is one such example. “The Mora and the Sapello rivers join on our ranch and continue down as the Mora,” explains Nicole King. “We have not grazed that area since 1990, and it looks great compared to all our neighbors’ land.” The Kings fenced cattle out of the riparian area adjacent to the confluence of the two rivers. Protecting this small but critical habitat resulted in a blossoming of wildlife species and a designation of this portion of the waterway as a Wild and Scenic River. Beavers have come in and built dams, which have enhanced the in-stream flow, attracting a diversity of flora and fauna, including turtles. This is an example of biophilia in action that can be emulated everywhere. “Re-wilding the land is vital if we are to make our forests and watersheds resilient to our changing climate,” notes Horning. “Roads are the single largest force fragmenting our lands. We must remove and restore roaded landscapes— when we do, we will create more intact habitat for wolves and grizzlies and more clean water for fish and for downstream human communities.” WildEarth Guardians has recently launched an initiative to provide in-stream flow to the endangered Rio Grande through a water lease program. This will help ensure, in times of drought, the continued existence and evolution of the diverse biotic community in New Mexico. Otherwise, instead of our rivers and streams being arteries of life, we will have dry and dusty arroyos. As Larry Littlebird (Laguna Pueblo/Santo Domingo Pueblo), founding director of the local nonprofit group Hamaatsa, says, “Water begins our life connection and nurtures our relationship to all that is. Water is sacred to me, because I stand in the middle between Heaven and Earth.” Nelson Denman of Santa Fe, a musician, poet, permaculture designer, author and lover of wilderness, is currently working on an opera titled The Rights of Nature/Los Derechos de la Naturaleza.


Jonathan Parks Antiques House of Ancestors Sparrow Antiques The Standard Art & Antiques Co. Lana’s House Bettina & Co. Buffalo Tracks Gallery Claiborne Gallery Modern 2.0 Three Ravens The Santa Fe Scout Collection Taylor A. Dale Coulter Brooks Art & Antiques Kania-Ferrin Gallery Gloria List - Art Rae Neumen Antique Mexican Devotional Art

16 Quality Dealers in Historic Downtown Santa Fe AntiQueS + InterIors on GrAnt 136 Grant Ave. • 983-0075 • Mon - Sat 10 - 5 Lots of Free Customer Parking Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico




10,000 sq. ft. of Santa Fe’s Most Exciting Shopping



The Galleries at Traveler’s Market DeVargas Center, 153-B Paseo de Peralta, Santa Fe, NM 87501 tel. 505-989-7667 Monday-Saturday 11-6 Sunday 12-5 82


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Join the Celebration AUGUST 23 - 24, DOWNTOWN SANTA FE ART, FASHION, CINEMA, MUSIC, DANCE Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


Joan Watts Untitled 33 36 x 36 inches, oil on canvas Charlotte Jackson Fine Art

Ngalpingka Simms (Australian Aboriginal artist) Wayul, 2010 69 x 54 inches unframed Synthetic polymer paint on canvas Chiaroscuro Contemporary Art

Santiago Perez The Little Believer 20 x 20 inches, oil on metal Nüart Gallery

HIGH SEASON BY DEVON HAWKES LUDLOW Crowds surge, canvases fill walls, deals are made, tourists dehydrate and every Friday night, it seems, there’s another fine fete to frequent. It’s high season in the city, and the city is at its finest. Opening their doors to the thousands drawn by the annual markets and museum exhibitions, Santa Fe’s galleries pull out every stop for buyers, dealers, critics, artists and even the general public. One can hardly throw a fruit and cheese tray without hitting a group of jovial patrons on their way to a mobbed opening. From celebrity artists to outsider troublemakers, from abstract expressionism to quiet landscape paintings, there’s something for everyone. Take a stroll some Friday night — or lazy summer day — and see some of the finest the art world has to offer, all in our little town.

AXLE GALLERY mobile, 670-7612

For those looking to see work beyond the traditional four white walls, this witty, frenetic and ambitious gallery on wheels is calling. Catch Allyson Packer in a performance piece (May 30 & 31), followed by Lisa de St. Croix in Tarot de St. Croix, work based on the tarot (June 6 & 7). The show Evaluation: Banal to Transcendent (opens June 13) is a conceptual

multimedia performance piece exploring ideas of surveillance, running in conjunction with the Currents 2014 International New Media Festival ( Then get ready for the Renga Drawing Exhibition (June 20-July 20). A renga (Japanese collaborative poem comprised of short poetic stanzas) has been written by 50 New Mexico poets, including Santa Fe’s Poet Laureate, Jon Davis. A book will be published at the close of the project with the full poems and drawings, and a full renga reading will take place at the New Mexico Museum of Art (June 22), with workshop and discussion to follow. Axle will round out the season with A Group Exhibition of Collage & Assemblage (June 25-Aug. 17) and Economologies, a multidisciplinary series on the future of art, commerce and sustainable ecology (Aug. 22-Sept. 14). Check the website for van locations.

CHARLOTTE JACKSON FINE ART 554 S. Guadalupe St., 989-8688

Mark your calendar for a slew of masters here, including Joan Watts with Boundless (May 16-June 21), Anne Truitt with Paintings and Works on Paper (June 27-July 27) and Jeremy Thomas with Ditching the Cardigan (Aug. 1-31).




This gallery begins their season with incredible photographer Walter Nelson (through May 31). High summer is devoted to the enticing group show, Australian Contemporary Indigenous Art III (June 27-Aug. 3), and the Indian Market solo shows of Rose B. Simpson and Yatika Starr Fields (Aug. 9-Aug. 31, public reception Aug. 22).

DAVID RICHARD GALLERY 544 S. Guadalupe St., 983-9555

Check out inimitable painter Michael Scott (through June 7), to be followed by an artist who needs no introduction, the great Judy Chicago (June 14-July 26).

GVG CONTEMPORARY 202 Canyon Road, 982-1494

Enjoy trademark paintings, sculpture, fine-art furniture and jewelry on display, plus Blair Vaughn-Gruler and Leigh Anne Chambers’ show The Language of Paint (June 25-Aug. 15). The season closes with Ernst Gruler’s Sculpniture (Aug. 22-Sept. 12).

Olga Antonova Stacked Cups on Green 30 x 22 inches, oil on canvas Selby Fleetwood Gallery

William Albert Allard Benedetta Buccellato, Sicily, 1994 20 x 13 inches, Lamda C-Print, edition of 15 VERVE Gallery of Photography

Nanami Ishiara Yama Ona, detail Zane Bennett Gallery


Catch two top-tier AbEx painters, Emily Mason (through June 1), followed by Henry Jackson (June 27-July 27), plus Tom Palmore’s representational animal portraits (Aug. 1-24), Christopher Benson (Aug. 1-29) and Hiroshi Yamano and Pedro Surroca (Aug. 8-Sept. 21).


670 Canyon Road, 988-3888 A packed season is on tap here. Visit their website for details on all the wonderful artists, including Santiago Perez (May 23-June 8), Randall Reid (June 6-22), Nina Tichava (June 20-July 6), Mark Spencer (July 18-Aug. 3), Hyunmee Lee (Aug. 8-24), Michael Bergt (Aug. 15-31) and Erin Cone (Aug. 29-Sept. 14).


142 Lincoln Ave., 820-0788 For a zesty twist, try the not-so-mainstream work at POP, including the multitalented Bob Doucette in Decadence and the visionary ceramicist Max Lehman in Half in the Other World (both shows through May

31, ending with a wrap party). Spencer Herr is next in Staying Brave (June 1-30), followed by Daniel Martin Diaz (July 4-Aug. 31, with a raffle benefiting Southwest C.A.R.E; artist’s reception July 26). The summer concludes with David Ho in Esoteric Edge and Joel Nakamura and Max Lehman’s Myth Makers (both shows running Aug. 1-31).


For those who wish to find a darker room this summer, try a fine photo show here, including Van Chu and Cy DeCosse (through June 21) and a triple heading of William Albert Allard, Kevin Bubriski and Santa Fe’s own Greg MacGregor (June 27-Sept. 6).

SELBY FLEETWOOD GALLERY 600 Canyon Road, 992-8877


Several delightful shows are planned, including new works by Sandra Pratt (May 24-June 4), new works by Kevin Box (June 27-July 10, with reception July 4), and Christina Chalmers and Olga Antonova (July 18-31).

TURNER CARROLL GALLERY 725 Canyon Road, 986-9800

View a rich lineup, starting with Kate Petley in FineLines (June 9-29), Rex Ray and Shawn Smith in Biomorphed (June 30-July 27) and what’s bound to be a phenomenal show, Survival, featuring artists from repressive regimes: Hung Liu, Traian Filip, Nele Zirnite, Igor Melnikov, Georges Mazilu and Wanxin Zhang (July 28-Aug. 25), with reception August 1.

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

435 S. Guadalupe St., 982-8111

A superb summer season starts with new works from Holly Roberts in A Day in the Life (May 30-June 21). Next up is amazing glass artist Matthew Szösz with Complications and painter Damien Stamer with Byways (June 27-July 18). Then expect the unexpected at the Japan Santa Fe Festival, with Japanese contemporary art (Aug. 22-Sept. 30, with preview opening July 25, lectures and films Aug. 19-21 and grand opening Aug. 22). Be sure to catch a one-day event with fine-jewelry makers Yazzie Johnson and Gail Bird (Aug. 21). The season finishes up with glass artist Mary Shaffer and photographer Donald Woodman (Aug. 29-Sept. 20). Devon Hawkes Ludlow is a Santa Fe writer, editor, puppeteer and musician. He has written for numerous publications in Portland, Oregon, Santa Fe and New York City.



Wheeler Brothers

Peter Rowan

Candace Bellamy

BY ANDREW MCMILLIAN Summer is upon us, and if there’s anything that complements this beautiful season in Santa Fe better than a bit of live music, it’s a summer filled with free live music. The 2014 Santa Fe Bandstand is the biggest of the local series, featuring a whopping 100 performances from June 23 to August 28, but also on tap is a set of shows on the lawn at St. John’s College and yet more concerts at the new Railyard Plaza.


Each act will perform on the legendary Plaza Bandstand, right in the heart of Santa Fe. If you like variety in your music, these 100 acts will give you just that, with performances covering about every music genre, bringing multifarious sounds to this magical stage. Latin and salsa, country and swing, indie, jazz, world and rock are a few you can expect. Here are some highlights of the summer Santa Fe Bandstand schedule; on most evenings the shows start at 6 p.m. Details at

TUESDAY, JUNE 3 (OPENING NIGHT) 6–7 p.m.: The Mil-Tones Brass Band, jazz

7:15–8:45 p.m.: Terrance Simien and the Zydeco Experience, zydeco Opening night features The Mil-Tones Brass Band, led by groundbreaking percussionist Milton J. Villarrubia III. He’ll gather the finest local talent playing horns, percussion and strings. To close it out, it’s amazing Lafayette, La., Creole vocalist and two-time Grammy winner Terrance Simien and the Zydeco Experience. They’ve shared the stage with legends like Dr. John, Paul Simon and Stevie Wonder, and Rolling Stone magazine has compared Simien to the great Sam Cooke.


6–7 p.m.: Hot Honey, Americana 7:15–8:45 p.m.: Wheeler Brothers, rock/folk/ blues If you like your music a bit on the country side and a bit on the alt side, you’re in for a treat with Hot Honey. In 2013 they won Santa Fe’s Best music



Terrance Simien

trifecta with Best New Local Band, Best Local Country/Alt Country Band and Best Local Rock Band. Their live performance is certain to make you a fan, if you’re not already. Austin, Texas band Wheeler Brothers has created a buzz since their debut album Portraits, securing six Austin Music Awards at the 2012 SXSW. Expect a hybrid of rock, folk and blues in a sound wholly their own.


6–7 p.m.: Candace Bellamy, soul Physician by day, soul singer by spirit, Candace Bellamy has a voice you must hear live to fully appreciate. According to The Austin Chronicle, Bellamy falls firmly between soul queen Sharon Jones and Austin’s rising star Akina Adderley, and they submit she’s one singer who shouldn’t have to stick to her day job.

Plaza Bandstand





7:15–8:45 p.m.: Peter Rowan, bluegrass This major roots-music icon has walked an unsurpassed path through musical territory while influencing a host of disciples like Del McCoury, Ricky Skaggs, Gillian Welch, David Rawlings and Tim O’Brien. Come see this master of both ancient and modern bluegrass.


7:45–9 p.m.: The Handsome Family, alt country/ Americana Already popular, The Handsome Family now has a whole new following thanks to their 2003 song “Far From Any Road,” featured as the theme song on HBO’s series True Detective. Something tells me this gorgeous tune will make it into their set list. Come find out for yourself.




The next venue in the summer concert series exudes an ambiance much different from the Bandstand while maintaining the same quality of music. St. John’s College presents its ninth season of Music on the Hill™, where concert-goers share a vibrant green field of grass beneath the setting sun as jazz fills the summer air from 6 to 8 p.m. Music on the Hill takes place on three Wednesdays in June and July. Bring a picnic or purchase food and water at the free event. Details at June 11: Bert Dalton’s Brazil Project, Brazilian jazz

7:15–8:45 p.m.: The Greencards, bluegrass

June 18: Brian Wingard, jazz

Check out 2014 Grammy-nominated The Greencards, who seem to be gaining new fans by the minute. Time magazine described their last album, Sweetheart of the Sun, as “laid-back tunes that land in a sweet spot halfway between Americana and bluegrass.”

June 25: Clairdee and Dmitri Matheny, jazz vocalists

July 11: Swing Soleil up-tempo all-acoustic swingjazz July 19: Santa Fe Reporter Best of Santa Fe party featuring winners of its Best Bands rankings Aug. 2: James McMurtry, alt country from this excellent narrative musician Aug. 9: Janiva Magness, blues/soul Aug. 31: Rosie Ledet & The Zydeco Playboys Possible appearances also include Grupo Fantasma, Red Baraat, Drivin’ ’N Cryin’, and Gardens & Villa. Andrew McMillian and his girlfriend have lived in Santa Fe for roughly a year and a half. He’s been a writer for eight years, an aspiring artist his entire life, and he also makes and sells furniture. He migrated here from Austin, Texas, where he survived 14 years of SXSW mania.

July 9: Annie Sellick, jazz vocalist July 16: SuperSax New Mexico, jazz July 23: Manzanares, Latin jazz Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

Friends and family gather under the landmark Water Tower in the Railyard Plaza to enjoy some free quality concerts this summer. Find a seat and a cold drink out on the patio at Second Street Brewery and relax while listening to some excellent live music. These are some of the bands scheduled to perform; details at


featuring Fine American Indian Pawn and contemporary jewelry - Vintage Mexican jewelry - Hispanic folk art - Photography of Edward Curtis

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THIS IS O’KEEFFE COUNTRY Take an adventure drive from Taos to the 21,000 acre ranch and experience the dramatic cliff walls, rock formations and red hills that inspired Georgia O’Keeffe and Ansel Adams, which continue to ignite the creative spirit in us all. Learn about our nationally acclaimed workshops and discover your true nature. Overnight Lodging O’Keeffe Landscape Tours Archaeology & Paleontology Museums & Tours Day Passes t Hiking Trails Horseback Riding High & Low Ropes Courses Climbing Wall Lake Kayaking/Canoeing Summer Rafting

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October 13-17, 2014

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David Russell, master craftsman, works on a lion for The Last Savage at The Santa Fe Opera prop shop.

BY CRAIG SMITH The room was high and dim and stretched off into the distance. Giant pieces of machinery stood cheek by jowl with neatly stacked building materials. A huge open elevator shaft loomed to one side. Off in a side chamber, a white-suited and masked figure was carving an immense set of legs and feet out of what looked like marble. It wasn’t the fabled Hall of the Mountain King. Nor was it the workshop of the artisans who sculpted the looming statues of Ramses II at Egypt’s Abu Simbel. It was one of the sub-sub-basements at The Santa Fe Opera; the materials were a blend of old and new, from wood and metal to Styrofoam and plastic; and the craftsman at work was making a statue of Dr. Sun Yat-sen, the eponymous hero of one of the company’s pending six 2014-season operas. It was like going into the hold of a treasure ship and seeing precious and amazing things stored below the waterline. Getting a glimpse of the practical work that turns concepts and ideas into reality isn’t something only a reporter can experience. During every summer season, the SFO offers regular backstage excursions for groups large and small. The hour-long tours include the theater’s front-ofhouse magnificence, as well as the big nooks and crannies that house the costume, wig and properties shops, and the warehouse areas where materials are stored. Once you’ve taken such a tour, you’ll never see and hear an opera in the same way again. My own sample tour was led by two of the company’s very experienced and enthusiastic docents, Linda and Roger Knapp. We started up by the box office, that hub of important activity where money changes hands for musical magic. From there, we went down to the central plaza in front of the Crosby Theatre, named for company founder John O. Crosby’s parents, Laurence Alden Crosby and Aileen O’Hea Crosby. There, the Knapps gave a fine capsule history of Crosby’s audacious founding of The Santa Fe Opera in 1956, the first season in 1957, and how the company has grown and thrived for more than 55 years. They pointed out that the current theater, seating 2,128, is the successor to several other houses. There was the original theater, seating 480 and later expanded. The second house opened in 1968, less than a year after a disastrous 1967 midseason fire ravaged the building; it seated 1,889 and, like the first structure, was open to the sky. The current house was built in the year between the 1997 and 1998 seasons. It has a roof with a soaring clerestory window, but its sides remain open to wind and rain as well as mild summer nights. It’s


PERA Sydney Moffat dresses Jasmine Quinsier as a toy monkey for Oscar, pressented in 2013.

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


Jewel Mark


on historic

Jacqueline’s Place

233 Canyon Road • Santa Fe

Open Everyday • 505.820.6304 • 17 2014

all part of The Santa Fe Opera experience. Our next destination was the theater itself. One can never be sure what will be going on during a tour; at this time, the set for Beethoven’s opera Fidelio was being assembled and tested onstage. The Knapps proved a gold mine of information on the theater’s construction and seating, with special attention to the reflecting trough of water between the orchestra and the audience. That continues a Crosby dictum from the first season: that water seen in a desert opera house not only provides a sense of refreshment, but helps sound carry out from the stage into the audience. And then came backstage, that beckoning mystery which so few audience members ever enter. We entered a door at house left, turned sharply right, and immediately found the operatic nerve center of a production: the stage manager’s desk. Located at stage right, here is where you find monitor screens, microphones and other items necessary for “calling” a show — that is, keeping it running straight and true. Then, we had a peep into a chorus dressing room. It was currently bare, but destined soon to be filled with costumes, wigs and people during the active season. It was a telling reminder that opera is the art of important stars, but also of the chorus and extra actors: Everything onstage goes into the frame of the story. We next went down a flight of stairs to the costume, dye and wig shops. During a group tour, the Knapps explained, people are told to form a straight line, not talk, and certainly not touch anything. There is plenty for the eyes to take in, though, including a particularly beautiful costume on a mannequin dummy, examples of the wig-maker’s art, and examples of operatic millinery, where headpieces are so often used to denote the rank or function of a character. Our descent into the bowels of the building continued. As we moved down, we saw the entrances to the orchestra pit and the orchestra’s sitting area. We saw the back deck, with its two huge flights of stairs leading up to the stage. We eventually came down to the bottom floor, where the craftsman was carving the Chinese revolutionary leader out of Styrofoam, and where storage areas seemed to extend as far as a city block. Then we came up outside to the back of Stieren Hall, the company’s big orchestra rehearsal and staging facility, and hopped over to the properties shop. Among the items to be seen were upsidedown chairs for the season’s offering of Donizetti’s Don Pasquale, side by side with armor, scepters, crowns, masks, trays and other operatic paraphernalia. The tour ended back where we started, in the central plaza. It had been a riveting, whirlwind experience of no small pleasure. The Santa Fe Opera is gearing up. There are dozens of eager docents ready to share the splendor of the company’s backstage with you. So what are you waiting for?


225 Canyon Road 505.982.3032 90

Daily backstage tours run Monday through Friday at 9 a.m. from June 2 to Aug. 22. The cost is $10 for adults and $8 for seniors; tours are free for children and young adults up to age 22. It is important to wear comfortable clothing and good footwear, as the tour involves extended walking and stairway climbing. The tours begin at the box office, and reservations are not required. They last an hour. Extended tours of the company grounds — including the Opera Ranch with its rehearsal halls, voice studios and administrative offices — are offered on June 27, July 25 and Aug. 22 at 10 a.m. There is a “Meet the Artist” component included in these tours, when attendees have the chance to meet and interact with company members. This tour is $12 per person, but if you combine it with a 9 a.m. backstage tour, the cost is $20 for both. Again, the tour begins at the box office and no reservations are required. Opera Insiders tours are held on Saturdays at 8:30 a.m. from May 31 to Aug. 23. Opera Guild members greet tour guests with coffee and muffins at the box office. At 8:45 a.m., an opera staff member or docent presents information about a particular area of operation, or an opera-related craft. A complimentary backstage tour follows, and a special family component is


THE SANTA FE OPERA IS GEARING UP. THERE ARE DOZENS OF EAGER DOCENTS READY TO SHARE THE SPLENDOR OF THE COMPANY’S BACKSTAGE WITH YOU. SO WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR? offered for families with small children. This event is free. For more information on tours, call 986-5900 or visit




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With six new productions set for 2014, including two one-acts, The Santa Fe Opera is pulling out all the stops. There are two familiar favorites, a rarely mounted masterwork, two examples of less common fare, and an American premiere of a contemporary work. The season runs from Friday, June 27 through Saturday, Aug. 23. Bizet’s enduring Carmen stars Daniela Mack and Ana María Martínez, sharing the title role, with Roberto De Biasio as Don José and Kostas Smoriginas as Escamillo. The conductor is Rory Macdonald and the director is Stephen Lawless. Members of Santa Fe’s Wise Fool theatrical circus troupe will be part of the production. Performance dates are June 27; July 2, 5, 11, 18 and 28; and Aug. 2, 6, 11, 16, 20 and 23. Donizetti’s Don Pasquale has only been produced once before by The Santa Fe Opera, in 1983. The performance dates are June 28; July 4, 9 and 29; and Aug. 4, 9, 13, 19 and 22. Corrado Rovaris conducts; Laurent Pelly is the director. The title role is sung by Andrew Shore, with Laura Tatulescu as Norina, Alek Shrader as Ernesto and Zachary Nelson as Malatesta. Grand and striking, Beethoven’s Fidelio will be seen and heard for the first time at The Santa Fe Opera. SFO Chief Conductor Harry Bicket leads a cast that includes Alex Penda as Leonore, Greer Grimsley as Pizarro, Manfred Hemm as Rocco and Paul Groves as Florestan. It runs July 12, 16, 25 and 31 and Aug. 5, 12 and 21. Stephen Wadsworth directs. In an interesting operatic idea, Mozart’s The Impresario and Stravinsky’s Le Rossignol are seen and heard on a double bill. The concept is that in the Mozart, singers are actually auditioning for parts in the Stravinsky. Set for July 19 and 23 and Aug. 1, 7 and 15, the works will be led by beloved SFO maestro Kenneth Montgomery, with Michael Gieleta as director. Performers include Erin Morley, Brenda Rae, Bruce Sledge, Meredith Arwady and Anthony Michaels-Moore. Huang Ruo’s Dr. Sun Yat-sen, in its American premiere, takes the stage on July 26 and 30 and Aug. 8 and 14. With a libretto by Candace Mui-ngam Chong, it will be sung in Mandarin. Carolyn Kuan conducts, James Robinson directs, and the cast includes Warren Mok in the title role and Corinne Winters as Soong Ching-ling. Single-ticket prices start at $32; tickets for the 2014 Family Nights are $12 for children and $25 for adults. Tickets for performances are available by telephone at 986-5900 or by visiting Craig Smith is an arts writer, editor and critic. Formerly music critic for The New Mexican, he has followed The Santa Fe Opera for three decades.






Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico



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Some 75 million years ago, geologists tell us, most of New Mexico was an inland sea — a vast water body bordered by tropical plants and marshes. These days, New Mexico is a mostly dry landscape of rock, desert shrub, cactus and sand. We no longer have rolling waves, and sometimes the water in our rivers is so low that our kayaks scrape bottom. But in a good year, we have some of the best white-water rafting in the Southwest — and some of the most beautiful waterways. We have deep sandstone canyons, volcanic hot springs and very cold, clear lakes.

float right by them, less than 20 feet away, observing even their young. River otters have also come back into the gorge. So there’s some spectacular scenery, in addition to the white-knuckle white water.” House also recommends the mellower Racecourse for those who don’t like the big water. “It’s just good splashy wet fun,” she says. Again, the geology is

Despite our dry climate, or perhaps because of it, we New Mexicans love water sports — we go whitewater rafting, we kayak, we paddleboard, we windsurf, we Jet Ski, we cliff dive. We are also fond of our own special places; New Mexico is dotted with hot springs and secret swimming holes, and we’re not all that likely to tell you where they are. Unless you’re buying the beer.

RAFTING Rafting is probably the most popular organized water sport in the state. Karen House, a veteran river guide with New Wave Rafting in Rinconada, says that because of decent snowfall up north, everyone is hoping for a good runoff this year — enough to take plenty of people down the famous Taos Box, an 18-mile stretch of Class 5 white water through the Rio Grande Gorge near Taos. “The Box is our biggest white water,” House says. “But one of the things that’s so rare and beautiful about the Box is the wildlife and the geology. There’s a large population of bighorn sheep that have been reintroduced here, and they are pretty tame. You can




interesting. “One side of the river is lava — cooled basalt — and on the other is the old Picuris quartzite. There’s a billion years of geologic time from one side of the river to the other. Plus, you’re rafting down the giant tectonic Rio Grande Rift.” The Racecourse is usually open all summer to rafting, but the Box usually requires a higher water level, available normally in late spring. Yet another rafting option is the Chama River Canyon, for day or multi-day excursions.

PADDLEBOARDING Stand-up paddleboarding (SUPing, for short) is becoming much more popular in New Mexico — at least in part because paddleboarding is something you can do when the water is low, as it often is after spring runoff and before our summer monsoons begin. The surfer’s answer to Southwestern rivers,

paddleboarding is a pretty easy sport to learn, and most of the river rafting outfits in Northern New Mexico teach SUPing and rent paddleboards after you’ve had a lesson. “There’s a good variety of ways to get down the river,” says Jose Elias Griego, a river guide and SUP instructor with New Mexico River Adventures. “The idea is to get people out to enjoy nature.” Griego says SUPing has been around forever on the oceans, but has become a popular way to get down rivers only in the last decade. In part, he said, that’s because new designs have made it a very safe river sport. “They’ve made new equipment that makes it easier on rivers — out of the same material as kayaks. My first time paddleboarding, we went down the Racecourse.” The Racecourse is mostly class 2 and class 3 white water, he points out, and probably too much for a beginner. “I fell in love with the sport right away,” Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

he said. “You should start out in a pool or a deep section. When I teach, we spend half an hour in an eddy first practicing some maneuvers. I really recommend people take some lessons to get a head start on their paddling.”

WINDSURFING & SAILING Paddleboarding can also be done on lakes, although, if you’re a fan of lakes, you might consider taking up windsurfing, another sport growing in popularity in New Mexico. We may not always have water, but we always have wind. “It’s so much fun,” says Michael Pogzeba, owner of Southwest Wind Sports. Pogzeba teaches people to windsurf on local water bodies, mostly Cochiti Lake, a “no-wake” lake (high powered boats are not allowed) between Santa Fe and Albuquerque. But, Pogzeba said, his favorite is Heron Lake in


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northern Rio Arriba County — a high-mountain “no-wake” lake on the Chama River. “It’s just so beautiful in late summer, once the water warms up,” he notes. “The water color when it’s full is this gorgeous aquamarine, and you can see the Brazos cliffs from there. You’re surrounded by mountains.” Many of the lakes along the Chama River, in particular, are pretty cold, coming from highmountain springs and snowmelt.

POWERBOATING & WATERSKIING If zipping around in a powerboat is more your thing, look to Abiquiú Lake, tucked under tremendous red sandstone cliffs made famous by painter Georgia O’Keeffe, or to Navajo Lake, the second-largest lake in the state. Spanning the Colorado/ New Mexico border a half hour east of Farmington, it is one of the few places in the region where you can rent a boat. Just below the lake, on the San Juan River, is a worldrenowned stretch of fishing water, and the lake itself is popular for all water sports and fishing.

Really, any deep, slow spot along any of New Mexico’s rivers is a safe bet, if you can swim. Just stay away from areas where the water is fast or tumbling over rocks — and be careful wherever you are, as even slowmoving waters can be very powerful. If you’re really wanting a highmountain dip in a secret swimming hole, though, head towards Sipapu Ski & Summer Resort, east of Peñasco, where there is a gorgeous cliff-swept swimming hole. The Rio Pueblo, coming off the high peaks nearby, will take your breath away with water that was mountain snowmelt a mere day or two ago. Hint: This swimming hole is on your left about a mile before the ski resort between the bridges on N.M. 518; look for a dirt turnout on your left. You’re buying the beer, right?

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If all you’re looking for, in the end, is a place to soak your bones on a hot and dry summer afternoon, it’s possible that windsurfing and renting boats is a bit too much to ask. In that case, you can always just go jump in a blue-green pool along a river somewhere or in any of the lakes already noted. North of Espanola, in the slow, meandering stretches of the Rio Grande, pull over to the roadside gravel lot across from the (now defunct) Embudo Station, where locals gather on summer afternoons to swim in a wide, deep section of the river. Or head up to Pilar, turn left, and find some good swimming in Orilla Verde Recreation Area. Check out the Pecos River, where many fine, deep, shockingly cold swimming holes are found above the town of Pecos near Dalton Canyon. Or head to the Jemez range west of Santa Fe and its small rivers and ponds. The mountains are also home to a handful of hot springs — but that’s another story.


Rinconada, 800-984-1444, New Mexico River Adventures

Embudo, 800-983-7756 Los Rios River Runners

Taos, 800-544-1181 or 575-776-8854 Far Flung Adventures

El Prado, 800-359-2627 or 575-758-2628,

KAYAKING For rentals and lessons, try New Mexico Kayak Instruction, 505-217-2187, www.; Cottam’s Ski Shop in Taos, which rents inflatable “funyaks”, 575-758-2822, or one of the river-rafting companies.

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AT NAMBÉ FALLS AND SANTA CRUZ LAKE STORY BY ARNOLD VIGIL PHOTOGRAPHY BY GENE PEACH There are some things in life that one never gets tired of repeating, each new sequence seemingly as exciting and pleasurable as the first. For instance, a drive along the High Road to Taos never fails to conjure up exhilarating feelings of expanse and magnitude, especially when in the company of someone who is noticeably enthralled with this distinctly New Mexican journey for the first time. Call it a High Road contact buzz. And one of the most memorable and scenic sections of this adventure is where N.M. 503 slices through the picturesque and sandy foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains between Pojoaque and Chimayó. To the knowledgeable eye, this area leaps out in memorable scenes from movies such as Wild Hogs, City Slickers, Young Guns and John Carpenter’s Vampires, as well as a whole slew of television commercials. But to the unknowing eye, this vast, semiarid land at first seems like nothing more than a bone-dry badlands, peppered with dry, snaking arroyos, drought-tolerant chamisa bushes, cholla cacti, and gnarly piñon and juniper trees. But hidden away, just off the meandering state highway at two separate locations, sit two bodies of water fed by streams originating from a pair of the prominences dominating the eastern horizon — 12,631-foot-high Santa Fe Baldy, whose west-basin tributaries fill Santa Cruz Lake; and 12,409-foot-high Lake Peak, whose waters feed Nambé Lake and Nambé Falls. (Not to be confused with a tiny natural water body high in the mountains named Lake Nambe.) Well known and popular with multiple generations of local families, anglers, campers and outdoor enthusiasts, Santa Cruz Lake Recreation Area, Nambé Lake and Nambé Falls offer excellent recreational day-trip opportunities for adults and children of Santa Fe. Each is open to the public, although the Nambé Falls site, operated by the Nambé Pueblo tribal government, is closed during the winter and infrequently at other times for sacred observances. Santa Cruz Lake, which impounds the Río Frijoles and Rio del Medio, was built in 1929 by the Santa Cruz Irrigation District, which uses its fluctuating water levels to irrigate farms in the Santa Cruz and Chimayó valleys. But the lake’s 121 surface acres are also a favorite spot for anglers ready to take rainbow, German brown and cutthroat trout, as well as kokanee salmon. Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


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Only boats powered by trolling motors are allowed, otherwise it’s common to see rowboats, kayaks, canoes and float tubes on the water, and hikers in the hills. “I love to fish at Santa Cruz Lake,” says Jaíme Gomez of Santa Fe. “In the summer, I can just load up the truck after work and get a couple of hours of fishing in before it gets dark. That’s the best time they bite!” Swimming is not allowed at Santa Cruz Lake due to dangerous undercurrents, but wading in knee-deep water near the shore is okay. There are two campgrounds for overnight stays: North Lake Campground, which has picnic shelters, grills, drinking water and restrooms; and Overlook Campground, located on a scenic butte above the lake and accessible from another entrance south of the main entrance off N.M. 503. The lake is open year-round, but Overlook, which is also a great place to picnic, is closed during the winter months. Nambé Falls is a popular spot for families with children, summer outdoorrecreation programs and large groups. The short hike from the picnic site along — and in and out of — the Rio Nambé up to the falls itself is one of those pleasures that can be repeated throughout one’s life. And at the end, since you’re already wet, why not take a heart-pounding dip into each of the pools below each of the three tiers of falls? But be careful: The climb up to the second two pools becomes more challenging. Another short trail leads up the canyon to a scenic overlook encompassing the falls and the 150-foot-high concrete dam that creates the 56-acre Nambé Lake reservoir. Managed by Nambé Pueblo under an agreement with the U.S. Bureau of Reclamation, the reservoir was closed to the public during the summer of 2013 because of the aftereffects of the Pacheco Fire, which burned thousands of acres below Santa Fe Baldy, depositing soot and debris into the Rio Nambe and Rio Capulín that drain the area. A ranger at the Nambe Pueblo Tribal Office said at press time that the lake would again be closed to the public in 2014. Fees to visit the falls apply. Typically, Nambé Lake and the falls are open Thursday to Sunday, during the daytime only, from about April 1. The area is usually closed from mid-November through mid-March. A special event, the Nambé Falls Ceremonial, is usually held on July 4, featuring Native dancing and food at the recreation area. For more information, call 455-2036 or visit Santa Cruz Lake is located 30 miles northeast of Santa Fe via U.S. 84/285 and N.M. 503. Fees apply for day use, overnight camping and picnicking. An annual or temporary fishing license issued by the state is required to angle. For more information, call the BLM Taos Field Office at 575-758-8851 or visit www.blm. gov/nm/st/en/prog/recreation/taos/santa_cruz_lake.html. Arnold Vigil is a former editor of New Mexico Magazine, a former reporter and columnist for the Albuquerque Journal, and author of Enduring Cowboys: Life in the New Mexico Saddle and Forever New Mexico. And yes, he never tires of getting wet at Nambé Falls and Santa Cruz Lake.


Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico



The vast grassland now filling the Valles Caldera is both awe-inspiring and disorienting. Standing at a turnout along N.M. 68 on the edge of the 89,000-acre Valles Caldera National Preserve, it is difficult to imagine a volcano this massive. The rim of the crater stretches for miles in a panoramic view, yet the far northern border is hidden by Cerro del Medio and Redondo Peak, two volcanic domes that formed within the immense bowl after the main crater collapsed. Visitors stand on the rim wondering whether that dot in the distance is a coyote or a bull elk, or how long it would take to walk across. With only one visible road stretching to the visitor center — which looks like a tiny Monopoly house from here — the first word many people associate with the sight is “pristine.” “What people are most struck by is the naturalness of the environment,” said Cultural Resources Coordinator Ana Steffen during a recent tour. “But it’s not that it’s unused, it’s the way we use it.” Although the caldera lacks “development” such as agricultural fields and permanent structures, it has in fact known human visitation and habitation since the late Paleo-Indian period. The 8,750-plusfoot elevation limited year-round human activity. It was too high to grow crops, and winters were too harsh, but that does not mean the caldera was unoccupied. Prehistoric people found a wealth of other resources within the caldera, including abundant game, excellent water sources, plants for food and medicine, and timber for a variety of uses. Cerro del Medio is a key player in that human history, because of the high-quality obsidian produced by its cooling lava. Obsidian can be traced to its source by its geochemistry. Thus, it is known that the Jemez Mountains surrounding the caldera contain multiple sources of artifactgrade obsidian, including Rabbit Mountain on the preserve’s southern rim. Obsidian from those sources was once carried downstream as far as the Rio Grande, increasing its geographic availability. Cerro del Medio obsidian is, and was, only found in the caldera itself, and early peoples had to visit here to acquire it. Arrowheads made from Cerro del Medio obsidian have been found as far away as western Mississippi, revealing prehistoric trade networks that once existed.



RICH HUMAN HISTORY Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico



WHEN YOU GO To preserve the knowledge of the Valles Caldera National Preserve’s early cultures, it is critical that visitors adhere to the rule to “take only photographs, leave only footprints.” The preserve has a strict “no collection” policy.


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Preserve staff have documented 633 archaeological sites on the 20 percent of the caldera they have surveyed, with artifacts dating as far back as the Paleo-Indian period 10,000 years ago. Evidence suggests that hunter/gatherers from throughout the Southwest may have made the valley a part of their seasonal rounds, taking up residence during the warmer seasons. Some sites were used for specific activities, such as quarrying obsidian. Others show evidence of village life, such as grindstones used in processing seeds, berries and dried meat. Steffen pointed to a broad, enclosed valley near the center of the caldera with an archaeological record indicating extensive occupation. “Every place that we’ve walked out there has archaeological sites on it,” Steffen said. “So this isn’t just a village. It’s actually a whole community.” Only the southwestern corner of the preserve — an area outside the caldera where elevations are low enough to support agriculture — holds evidence of Puebloan structures. The preserve also contains numerous Puebloan religious sites, particularly of Jemez Pueblo. Jemez is currently in a legal battle with the federal government to reclaim these ancestral lands. “Agricultural people definitely used the caldera,” Steffen said. “They just didn’t build here, because they weren’t farming here. I think to understand how people used this landscape, you can look at how people use it today. A lot of what we do out here is hunt and fish and collect firewood, and also explore and enjoy the landscape, and I think that would have been true in the past.” Spanish settlers grazed sheep in the grasslands. Shepherds carved their names, religious symbols, romantic musings and a surprising amount of erotica into aspen and ponderosa pine trees, an art form known as dendroglyphs. A survey of just a small fraction of the preserve documented 350 trees with carvings. Much of this history was probably lost to extensive logging at the end of the 20th century and in recent forest fires. “Those are a whole record of people who otherwise are not

documented anywhere else,” Steffen noted. “With the dendroglyphs, they can tell their own story — where they’re from, why they were there, what their names were.” The mid to late 20th century brought cattle ranching and patchy clear-cut logging. Since the caldera became a national preserve in 2000, staff and volunteers have labored to restore the ecology of overgrazed grasslands, to mitigate damage such as runoff from the numerous logging roads, and to stem poaching. The Baca Ranch headquarters, which is being nominated for inclusion on the National Register of Historic Places, chronicles the ranching period of the park. Structures dating back to 1909 include bunkhouses, a saddle/tack shed, a commissary cabin and residences for various owners and a ranch foreman. The preserve’s more recent additions include buildings constructed for various movie sets. Historic-district structures are utilized by production companies for some film projects, such as the A&E TV series Longmire. The History Grove is another treasure. It is the only remaining old-growth ponderosa pine forest within the preserve and one of the greatest ponderosa stands within the United States. “Most people have never seen what an oldgrowth, uncut ponderosa forest looks like,” Steffen said. “People talk about how you should be able to run a horse through it at full gallop. And when you see the History Grove, you go, ‘Oh, I see.’” Much of the preserve’s management is focused on providing an experience seldom found in today’s fast-paced world, even at many national parks. “We’re very aware that there’s a different sort of silence here. So as we make decisions about how to create public access, we’re aware that there’s a need for a different kind of place, a different kind of environment,” Steffen said. “I believe the Preserve can serve as a place for people to regain their ‘hunter-gatherer eyes.’ It is a landscape to directly experience what it is like to be surrounded by bountiful resources in an environment that has not been transformed.” 102


Directions: From Santa Fe, take U.S. 84/285 north 15 miles to N.M. 502 (Los Alamos/Bandelier National Monument exit). N.M. 502 becomes Trinity Drive in Los Alamos. When Trinity ends at Diamond Drive, turn left. Turn right onto N.M. 4 and drive 18 miles to reach the main entrance of the preserve.

The preserve offers hiking, fly-fishing, mountain biking and equestrian trails in the summer and crosscountry skiing and snowshoeing in winter. Online reservations are suggested. Elk hunting is available through a lottery in the fall. Guided activities include van tours on archaeology, sightseeing, botany, ecology, geology, history and wildlife, as well as flyfishing clinics and photography workshops. Group tours (by van or hiking) are also available. Volunteer activities provide an opportunity to help with various projects and experience areas of the preserve that regular visitors never see. Projects range from wetland restoration with Los Amigos de Valles Caldera ( to archaeological excavations with the Earthwatch Institute. For volunteer opportunities, contact the Valles Caldera.

SPECIAL EVENTS Earth Skills Gathering — May 24 & 25, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Free. Demonstrations may include creating primitive tools, hide tanning, flint knapping, an edible and medicinal plant walk, and more. Jemez Mountains Storytelling Jamboree —

July 26, 11 a.m.–7 p.m. Free. The Ranch Road Ramble and Photo Adventure, which are guided scenic tours through the preserve utilizing your personal vehicle, provide special access to the preserve. Go to the website or call 866-3825537 for dates and reservations.

Arin McKenna has freelanced for the New Mexican and other publications since 2004, and has won state and national awards for both her writing and as former host/producer of KTRC Radio’s Art Tour Santa Fe. She has written extensively about the debate over the Valles Caldera National Preserve’s future in her position as county reporter for the Los Alamos Monitor.

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Santa Fe opens its roads and trails to the growing number of local cyclists BY WHITNEY DREIER Well, the secret’s out: Santa Fe is a world-class cycling destination. Blame the International Mountain Bicycling Association (IMBA), which hosted its World Summit here in October 2012. The event attracted hundreds of cycling enthusiasts and advocates from around the world who attended seminars on everything from developing mountain-bike tourism to balancing recreation and land conservation. And when they weren’t attending lectures at the Santa Fe Convention Center, they rode. And drank beer. And rode some more. Visitors and locals alike became hooked on Dale Ball’s rugged singletrack, on La Tierra’s 1,500 acres of rolling trails and on the convenience of commuting along the Acequia River and Rail Trails. Within a year, USA Today, and The Active Times had all named Santa Fe one of the country’s top mountain-biking destinations. Even The New York Times was in on the action; writer — and Santa Fe resident — Henry Shukman waxed poetic about cycling the City Different: Come spring, when the cottonwoods turn bright with leaf, just to be passing through town on a bike, through the blue shade of trees, on any of the bikeways or trails, is a joy. Summer evenings and mornings are glorious for riding, and

the fall, with its bright colors, is fine too. Almost wherever you are, you can see the mountains. He’s got a point. Nearly year-round, Santa Fe is small enough to conquer a few go-to routes but large enough for endless exploring. “Santa Fe really provides access,” says local resident and arborist Jeremy Gray. “There’s more road in Northern New Mexico alone than you can get to know in a year; I’ve tried really hard.” In 2013, the League of American Bicyclists designated Santa Fe as a Bicycle Friendly Community at the Silver Level. The city earned Bronze-Level status in 2011 but moved up after the local government worked to promote bike culture in the city by creating safer and more convenient places to ride, changing traffic signage and — shockingly — actually listening to cyclists. “I am most proud of the commitment and passion the mayor, city council and staff have shown in implementing world-class bicycle infrastructure and facilities,” says Robert Siqueiros, a projects administrator for the Public Works Department who staffs the Bicycle and Trails Advisory Committee. “We have spent over $20 million in the last seven years on the planning, design and construction of bike infrastructure and facilities.” Those improvements include buses with bike racks, a budding trail system

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


GREAT LOCAL BIKING EVENTS LA TIERRA TORTURE — MAY 3 Held at fun and fast La Tierra, the Torture is a 9-mile loop that riders in various categories complete anywhere from one to three times. The exact route, however, won’t be announced until the day before the race — after all, organizers wouldn’t want anyone to have an advantage nabbing any of the awesome prizes. And if you’re not speedy enough to claim the cash, you can still win big; the first 100 racers to register receive a free La Tierra Torture custom jersey.

BIKE & BREW FESTIVAL — MAY 16-18 for commuters and a Safe Routes to Schools program. “There’s more ideal towns for the daily commuter or fitness-oriented roadie, but this town isn’t the worst — and it’s making an effort,” Gray says. Santa Fe’s most complete effort to date has taken place along its northern and eastern edges and caters to mountain bikers. Just north of town and fewer than 3 miles from the Santa Fe Plaza, the La Tierra Trails offer more than 25 miles of mellow singletrack, as well as a bike-jump park. To the east, the Santa Fe Foothills Trails — which include the Dale Ball Trails, Nature Conservancy Preserve Trail, Dorothy Stewart Trail, Atalaya Trail, La Piedra Trail and Little Tesuque Trail — incorporate 34 miles of varied texture, elevation and exposure across city, country, private and U.S. Forest Service land. “For mountain bikers there is a great diversity of trails in the area, from high-altitude backcountry riding to more urban loops, which are perfect for an evening ride,” says Patrick Kell, Southwest region director for the IMBA. “This diversity of trails is supported by an active and engaged mountain-bike advocacy group, Santa Fe Fat Tire Society, who host events and trail work sessions and develop strong partnerships with agencies in the region.” For more on the Santa Fe Fat Tire Society, visit

Culminating in the Santa Fe Century (below), the inaugural Outside Bike & Brew Festival kicks off summer in a big, beery, bike-infused way. From women’s mountainbike clinics to the Tour de Brewer — a rolling tour of Santa Fe’s local beer joints — there is something for everyone, no matter their cycling ability. New Belgium hosts a Bike-In Movie at the Cowgirl, pro cyclist Mike McCalla leads a ride at La Tierra, and rumor has it that Marble Brewery will make its triumphant return to Santa Fe with a new taproom, food trucks and a concert.

SANTA FE CENTURY — MAY 18 Sure, some roadies like to race the Century, but we recommend a leisurely ride — after all, you have 100 miles to cover. The route dips down the Turquoise Trail, through the old mining towns of Madrid and Golden, across the Ortiz and San Pedro mountains, across the Estancia Valley, into the Galisteo Basin and then back into town. The 29th annual event also offers 50- and 20-mile options; all three routes offer plenty of food stops and sag support.

SANTA FE BIG FRIGGIN LOOP — JUNE 28 This event is capped at 74 riders, so if a wicked 70-mile ride that includes Atalaya Mountain and Tesuque Peak sounds like your idea of a good time, sign up now. An accurate GPS is required. We can’t guarantee that you’ll have a good time, but at least the ride ends at the original Second Street Brewery, so you can treat yourself to a well-deserved beer afterward.


LOVE YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD BIKE SHOP When it comes to bike purchase and repair, ditch the discount big-box store and consider local bike shops. In doing so, you’ll likely also meet other cyclists and learn what Santa Fe has to offer riders. Many shop owners go to great lengths to circulate information — including maps, new laws, the latest gear — to keep their customers safe and informed.

Travel the Santa Fe Trail at the same pace the pioneers experienced it, but in the opposite direction. Every September, the Santa Fe Trail Bicycle Committee organizes a 20-day bike ride from Santa Fe to New Franklin, Mo. Members of the Santa Fe Trail Association meet the cyclists and discuss historic areas along the way, and riders also learn about what’s currently being done to preserve the trail. At only $45 a day, this ride is a steal.

The following stores rent and sell bicycles, cycling gear and equipment, or offer bike maintenance locally:


The Broken Spoke 1426 Cerrillos Rd.; 992-3102 or Fusion Multisport 106 Central Park Square, Los Alamos; 662-5000 or Mellow Velo 132 East Marcy St.; 995-8356 or New Mexico Bike ’N Sport 524 Cordova; 820-0809 or REI Santa Fe 500 Market St., #100; 982-3557 or

If you prefer artisan cheeses over PowerBars at your rest stops, the Gourmet Classic is for you. This non-competitive, 65-mile ride starts with Southwestern breakfast burritos at the PERA building before heading into the countryside, where you’ll be fueled by lemongrass coconut bars, grilled pork medallions with apricot Dijon chutney and Quaker apple cake with vanilla crème anglaise.

Whitney Dreier of Santa Fe is an associate online editor for Outside magazine. She rides a 2009 Kona Jake the Snake. She also was the 2012 and 2014 New Mexico women’s snowshoe racing state champion, a sport she reported on for us in Winterlife 2013-14.

Rob & Charlie’s 1632 St. Michael’s Dr.; 471-9119 or Sirius Cycles 2801 Rodeo Rd., Suite B-8; 819-7311 or SpinDoc 628 Old Las Vegas Highway; 466-4181 or 106




Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico



The evil spirit of drought had come and stayed too long! All of the people, the animals, the birds and the plants were in abject misery! As the days came and passed, the birds sang only sad songs; the plants drooped lower and lower; the animals walked slower and the people were haunted with despair! The earth’s rhythm was out of step! The ancient people were ready to abandon the homes they had lived in all of their lives. The very old and sick ones were to stay but they were brave and were ready to accept their fate. As a farewell to their ancestors, whose spirits were ever-present, the people performed a special ceremonial. Unusual preparation was required for this particular ceremony. They offered prayer sticks covered abundantly with every available bird feather. They were sprinkled heavily with sacred corn meal, and they endured great physical suffering to please the Great Spirit. When they finished their rituals and waited for answer, they gazed at the sky with prayers and hope in their hearts. — WHY RIVERS NEVER RUN STRAIGHT BY PABLITA VELARDE, SANTA CLARA PUEBLO, 1961

On a rainy, mist-veiled morning, just a few weeks before spring’s official arrival, a family of blue and grey serpentine clouds gathers overhead. Moving toward the high cliffs to the west of the Tewa villages, along the now dampened banks of the Rio Grande, where yucca blooms and eagles fly, it swirls and tosses about in the cool air. The shapes move into and out of and over and under each other, becoming more defined as they carry themselves across the sky. Reaching the edge of the Village Where Cottonwood Trees Grow, their movements slow and they descend just enough to touch the tops of the tallest trees. As the first drum sounds and the dancers emerge from the kiva in one long, slender line, a single beam of sunlight escapes from within the moving serpent shapes and brushes damp shadows onto the fine, sandy earth and across the smoothness of the kiva walls. The air sparkles and glistens all around and breezes from each direction push through the shadows and float toward the cactus-covered, obsidian-colored mesa just beyond the village, where the Rio Grande of Northern New Mexico swims fast and deep, and bright red snakes wind through the tall grasses of its banks in summer. The dancers align themselves from south to north. Moving in perfect time with each other, every moccasin touching the earth and pushing back away from it in unison, they become one continuous collective motion, their speed and direction of step dictated by the drums, and their accompanying songs sung in voices that resonate through the morning and out into the first moments of the just-arriving day. The men’s kilts are adorned with horned serpent figures that twist and twine over the soft woolen monk’s cloth with each dancer’s movements. The gentle, writhing undulations of the serpents become almost three-dimensional within these movements as they swim from side to side over the soft ocean of textile beneath them.

THIS IS THE BOW AND ARROW DANCE: AVANYU IS HERE For more than a millennium, the horned or plumed serpent, known in the Tewa Pueblo language as Avanyu, has occupied a place of great importance within the culture and cosmology of the Puebloan Indians of the American Southwest. Symbolic both of earthly and supernatural phenomena — clouds, rain, lightning, bodies of water and the fusion of the terrestrial to the heavenly — its likeness has snaked itself across the steep desert rock faces and sheer cliff overhangs over thousands of miles of the temperamental desert terrain within the vast radius of what now constitutes the territories of Mexico, New Mexico, Arizona and Colorado.

Painting by Helen Hardin, Black on Black, 1975 Courtesy Golden Dawn Gallery, Santa Fe

Earliest representations of the iconic serpent figure appear on the blackand-white painted surfaces of classic Mimbres pottery (A.D. 1000-1150), the precursor to the fine Pueblo clay work of today. Traveling north, with many intermittent visitations along the way, primarily in the Casas Grandes and Jornada Mogollon districts, where it was often included in the decorative motifs of ceramic works and kiva paintings dating back to between 1200 and 1450, it eventually wound its way into the upper Rio Grande regions of the Tewa and Tiwa tribes around 1325. There it retained its significance as a symbol of the various properties of water and, thus, as a sustainer of life itself. Often depicted wearing a neckband of a stylized shell design, further implicating its qualities as a water deity, the horned or plumed serpent is also used as a metaphorical reference to lightning, which bolts from its open mouth in an attempt to influence the celestial guardians to coax rain from the sky. Archaeologist Polly Schaafsma, Ph.D., is well acquainted with Avanyu, having dedicated many years of study to its mysterious and powerful presence throughout the Southwest. In an essay “Quetzalcoatl and the Horned and Feathered Serpent of the Southwest” (found in the book The Road To Aztlan: Art From A Mythic Homeland by Virginia M. Fields and Victor Zamudio-Taylor, 2001), she notes Avanyu’s “bewilderingly complex personality,” which, much like its Mexican counterpart, Quetzalcoatl, “is multifaceted and ambiguous, cosmic in scope, its roles in myth and ritual involving the unpredictable — endings and beginnings, change, transition, and transformation.”



Dr. Schaafsma writes, “The horned serpent continues to be revered as an important deity among the Pueblos and is known by various names among the different linguistic groups, including Kolowisi (Zuni), Paaloloqangw (Hopi), and Awanyu (Tewa). … The serpent may be associated with the four (or six) directions, the colors of which the snakes also assume. Nevertheless, the Pueblo horned serpent is primarily a water serpent, an ambiguous entity both feared and respected. … His home is in springs, ponds, rivers, and ultimately the oceans, all believed to be connected under the earth’s surface, and … may cause torrential rains and floods.” Today Avanyu continues to wind around the smooth, hand-polished surfaces of the black, red and polychrome vessels made by some of Native America’s preeminent potters, including Judy Tafoya and Sharon Garcia of Santa Clara Pueblo and Russell Sanchez of San Ildefonso Pueblo; and across the canvases of its masters of two-dimensional works, including Hopi-Tewa artist Dan Namingha, and third-generation Tewa painter Margarete Bagshaw (Santa Clara Pueblo), who has engaged the Avanyu image in her dynamic and energetic large-scale paintings, as did her mother and grandmother, painter and printmaker Helen Hardin and the great painter Pablita Velarde, respectively, in their acrylics, caseins, watercolors and lithographs. All of these artists cite the inherent spiritual and cosmic references contained in the Avanyu form. Though the iconic symbol of the plumed or horned serpent is still used extensively among contemporary Pueblo artists, the secrets of Avanyu remain closely guarded; many sources are reluctant to offer dialogue on the subject of Avanyu, and therefore, the discourse is limited. Painter Margarete Bagshaw notes, “I have grown up seeing the Avanyu wrapped around the pots made by my aunt Legoria Tafoya, as well as other Santa Clara potters. The Avanyu is who I pray to, by painting, when our mountains have fire caused by severe drought. It appears in cloud formations, lightning, rivers

and wind. I was taught by my grandma that it will either bless us with sustenance or punish us with flood or drought, for the way we as a society behave. The most important thing, she said, is to always show great respect when Avanyu appears. Be humble and hold it in high regard.” When the final verse is sung and the last drumbeat marks the end of the dance, the single line of dancers disappears back into the silence of the kiva. The bows and arrows and kilts are put back in their proper places, where they will rest until Avanyu returns. The gathering of serpent-shaped clouds ascends again, now rising far above the treetops and wrapping the beam of sunlight inside itself, then drifting onward toward the distant canyons to the west, where wild roses grow and dragonflies flutter in springtime, toward formations in the landscape that suggest Avanyu’s very origin. It moves quickly through the thin, cool air, then dips down into the horizon and travels far beyond view. Avanyu has gone home. For now. Their sign came one bright night amid great excitement and fear! For from the sky fell a comet of fire, roaring, writing and winding as it fell to earth! The earth trembled, for Ava-yun-ne had found the Evil Spirit of drought. The combat was victorious for Ava-yun-ne! As he disappeared back to Si-pa-pu, the voice of Thunder sang in a loud voice, followed by the steady rhythm of raindrops. The rain continued until the arroyos were filled and became rivers, which flowed in the same winding pattern of the Ava-yun-ne. This is why all rivers now twist, turn and wind as they flow over the face of the earth. RoseMary Diaz (Tewa) is a freelance feature writer and an award-winning and anthologized poet who studied literature at the Institute of American Indian Arts, Naropa University and the University of California at Santa Cruz. RoseMary spent much of her childhood at her family’s home in Santa Clara Pueblo, where she participated in many traditional dances. She resides in Santa Fe.

Painting by Margarete Bagshaw, Beckoning of the Plumed Serpent

SPIRIT OF WATER IN PUEBLO LIFE AND ART Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


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June 21 & 22, Saturday & Sunday

July 5 & 6, Saturday & Sunday El Rancho de las Golondrinas hosts the annual two-day Santa Fe Wine Festival. 471-2261, or


ends today at the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art. 982-2226,

May 14, Wednesday


The two-day annual Herb & Lavender Fair is held at El Rancho de las Golondrinas. 471-2261,

June 6, Friday

June 23, Monday

July 9, Wednesday

Beginning today, Santa Fe Bandstand presents early evening concerts on the Plaza, nearly daily through Aug. 28. Free.

Secrets of the Symbols: The Hidden Language in Spanish Colonial Art opens today at the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art. 982-2226,


Wednesday Night Barrel Races at

the Santa Fe Rodeo Grounds on Rodeo Road, continuing through Aug. 27. Free. 471-4300,

May 17 & 18, Saturday & Sunday The Santa Fe Symphony winds up its

30th anniversary season with a double presentation of Beethoven’s “Ninth” and Brahms’ Tragic Overture. 983-1414, Join the Santa Fe Artists Market for two days at Cathedral Park. Free. 310-1555,

May 24, Saturday Beyond Tradition, focusing on new work by Spanish Market artists juried into the newest market category, Innovations within Tradition, opens today at the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art. 982-2226,

May 24 & 25, Saturday & Sunday The Santa Fe Fiber Arts Festival holds its annual two-day show at El Rancho de las Golondrinas. 471-2261,

May 24-26, Saturday-Monday The Northern New Mexico Fine Arts and Crafts Guild presents its threeday Cathedral Park Arts & Crafts Fair next to the Cathedral Basilica of St.

Francis of Assisi. Free. 473-5590,

May 25, Sunday Toys and Games: A New Mexico Childhood opens at the New Mexico History Museum and continues through January 2015. 476-5200,

May 26, Monday The New Mexico Museum of Art, New Mexico History Museum/Palace of the Governors, Museum of Indian Arts & Culture/Laboratory of Anthropology and the Museum of International Folk Art open on Mondays for the summer season. 982-6366,

May 27, Tuesday The exhibit, Window on Lima: The Beltran-Knapp Collection from Peru,

Marking both her 75th birthday and three decades of living and working in New Mexico, Local Color: Judy Chicago in New Mexico, 1984-2014, opens at the New Mexico Museum of Art on the Plaza and runs through Oct. 12. 476-5041,

June 7 & 8, Saturday & Sunday El Rancho de las Golondrinas hosts its annual two-day Spring Festival & Children’s Fair. 471-2261,

June 8, Sunday The Santa Fe Community Orchestra

presents its season finale at the St. Francis Auditorium in the New Mexico Museum of Art at 2:30 p.m. Free. 466-4879,

June 11, Wednesday The Music on the Hill concert series, sponsored by St. John’s College, begins today and continues on most Wednesday evenings through July on the college’s athletic field. Free.

June 14, Saturday Rodeo de Santa Fe Parade to the Plaza

kicks off the annual rodeo. 471-4300,

June 14 & 15, Saturday & Sunday Challenge New Mexico sponsors its two-day 36th annual Arts and Crafts Festival on the Plaza. 988-7621,

June 17-21, Tuesday-Saturday Professional rodeo cowboys and cowgirls compete in the four-day 64th annual Rodeo de Santa Fe at the Santa Fe Rodeo Grounds. Kick-off party is on Tuesday; rodeo runs WednesdaySaturday. 471-4300,

June 21, Saturday Educate + Inform + Inspire: A Celebration of Allan Houser’s 100th Birthday opens at the IAIA Museum of Contemporary Native Arts from 5-7 p.m. 983-8900,

June 27, Friday The Santa Fe Opera opens its 57th season tonight with Bizet’s Carmen. This opera also ends the season on Saturday, Aug. 23. 986-5900, www.santafeopera. org.

July 10-13, Thursday-Sunday Art Santa Fe kicks off its 14th annual International Art Fair with a Gala

The annual Santa Fe Studio Tour begins with a Friday Preview Party at Santa Fe University of Art and Design. The self-led tour is Saturday & Sunday. Free.

Opening and Vernissage on Thursday at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center. For tickets call 988-1234, visit or stop by the Lensic Performing Arts Center box office, 225 W. San Francisco St. From Friday-Sunday gallery artists from throughout the world exhibit at the Convention Center. 989-1119,

June 28, Saturday

July 11, Friday

Santa Fe Pride begins with a parade from the Roundhouse to the Railyard, where visitors will find food and merchandise vendors, a beer garden and entertainment. 216-1595,

The ninth annual New Mexico Jazz Festival features local talent and jazz

June 27-29, Friday-Sunday

Don Pasquale by Donizetti opens tonight at The Santa Fe Opera. 986-5900,

June 29, Sunday Painting the Divine: Images of Mary in the New World opens at the New Mexico History Museum today and continues through March 2015. 476-5200,

JULY July 4, Friday Volunteers serve up griddle-hot Pancakes on the Plaza to benefit children and families through the Santa Fe Rotary Club. Breakfast, silent auction and kids’ activities from 7 a.m.-noon; vintage and cool cars from 7 a.m.-1 p.m.; and arts and crafts show from 7 a.m.5 p.m. 984-0022, Fireworks explode after dark, sponsored by the Santa Fe Boys & Girls Club. Call 983-6632 for location.

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

legends and continues through July 27 at venues throughout Santa Fe and Albuquerque. 988-1234, tickets. or

July 11-13, Friday-Sunday The International Folk Art Market Santa Fe begins with a gala opening

party on Friday at 6:30 p.m. at the Milner Plaza on Museum Hill. Tickets include refreshments, music, dancing and shopping with all the artists in attendance, followed by the weekend Folk Art Market on Museum Hill. The Early Bird Market begins on Saturday at 7:30 a.m., followed by the public opening at 9 a.m. Tickets for both the Early Bird opening and general admission may be purchased in advance or at the gate. Free shuttles will provide transportation to Museum Hill throughout the market. 992-7600,

July 12, Saturday Fidelio by Beethoven opens at The

Santa Fe Opera. 986-5900,

July 12 &13, Saturday & Sunday The annual two-day Young Natives Arts and Crafts Show and Sale is held in the Palace of the Governors


Courtyard. Free. 476-5200,

Camping, hiking, boating, and family fun… Adventures come alive at New Mexico State Parks. TRUE

The annual Santa Fe Greek Festival celebrates Greek culture at the Eldorado Hotel.

July 17-20, Thursday-Sunday


SITElines: Unsettled Landscapes opens at SITE Santa Fe. Opening festivities July 17-19. Show opens July 20 and runs through January 2015. 989-1199,

July 19, Saturday A double bill including Mozart’s The Impresario and Stravinsky’s Le Rossignol opens at The Santa Fe Opera. 9865900,

July 19 & 20, Saturday & Sunday The two-day ¡Viva Mexico! Celebration takes place at El Rancho de las Golondrinas, featuring música, arte and más! 471-2261,

July 27, Sunday Annual Spanish Market Mass for artists and visitors begins at 8 a.m. at the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi.

The exhibit Tako Kichi: Kite Crazy in Japan ends today at the International Folk Art Museum. 476-1200,

July 29, Tuesday

July 20, Sunday


July 22, Tuesday

August 2 & 3, Saturday & Sunday The 42nd annual two-day Arts & Crafts Show sponsored by Girls Inc. of Santa

Fe is a juried show showcasing 150 local, state and national artists. It is the third largest summer market on the Plaza.Free. 982-2042, El Rancho de las Golondrinas

The Santa Fe Garden Club, celebrating

presents its annual two-day Summer

July 25, Friday

featuring mountain men demonstrating their skills and telling stories of old New Mexico. Peruvian Paso horses from La Estancia Alegre will be shown. 471-2261,

its 75th anniversary, hosts the first of its two annual Behind Adobe Walls home and garden tours. 984-0022,

Members-only preview at the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art opens the 62nd annual Traditional Spanish Market. 982-2226, Preview Night at the 26th annual

Contemporary Hispanic Market,

Santa Fe Community Convention Center, includes food, music and dancing under the stars in the courtyard. Free. 331-5162, www.

July 26, Saturday


The Contemporary Hispanic Market features arts and crafts by New Mexico’s cutting-edge Hispanic artists on Lincoln Avenue, next to the Plaza, for two days. Free. 331-5162, www.

Celebrating 75 years of annual tours of seldom-seen private gardens and homes, The Santa Fe Garden Club conducts its second Behind Adobe Walls tour of the summer. 984-0022,

Schubert, Anderson and Brahms, at St. Francis Auditorium in the New Mexico Museum of Art. The Festival continues at various venues around Santa Fe and Albuquerque through Aug. 25. 982-1890,

N M PA R KS.C O M • 1 .8 8 8.6 6 7. 2 7 5 7

The Traditional Spanish Market spotlights living artists working within the Spanish colonial tradition. On the Plaza, with food, music and entertainment, for two days. Free. 982-2226,

The Northern New Mexico Fine Arts and Crafts Guild presents the Cathedral Park Arts & Crafts Fair for two days at the park. Free. 473-5590,

The Santa Fe Chamber Music Festival opens its 42nd season with

New Mexico State Parks are

July 26 & 27, Saturday & Sunday

Dr. Sun Yat-sen by Huang Ruo makes its American premier at The Santa Fe Opera. 986-5900,


Festival and Territorial Law & Order

August 3, Sunday Footprints: The Inspiration and Influences of Allan Houser opens today at the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture on Museum Hill. 476-1250,

August 10, Sunday The annual Apprentice Showcase presents fully staged opera scenes at The Santa Fe Opera, showcasing the opera stars of tomorrow. 986-5900,

August 15-18, Friday-Monday The 35th annual Whitehawk Antique Indian & Ethnographic Art Show

is held at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center. Opening night party is Friday; show is Saturday-Monday. 992-8929,

August 16 & 17, Saturday & Sunday El Rancho de las Golondrinas hosts Survival: New Mexico. Visitors will be

able to practice outdoor skills, including building shelters, starting fires from scratch and using bows and arrows. 471-2261,

August 21 & 22, Thursday & Friday The Annual Benefit Auction, featuring

Indian jewelry, textiles, pottery, fine arts and more, begins at the Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian. Free. 982-4636,

August 22-24, Friday-Sunday The 40th annual Santa Fe Bluegrass and Old Time Music Festival brings

local, regional and national acts to the Santa Fe County Fairgrounds on Rodeo Road. www.southwestpickers-festival. org.

August 23, Saturday The Southwestern Association for Indian Arts (SWAIA) hosts its annual Live Auction Dinner and Gala at La

Fonda on the Plaza. 983-5220,

August 23 & 24, Saturday & Sunday Indian Market, sponsored by SWAIA

and featuring artists from throughout the United States and Canada, is held on the Plaza. Free. 983-5220,

The annual two-day Portal Artisans Celebration highlights Palace of the

Governors’ artists and their handcrafted work in the Palace Courtyard. Traditional dances, music, raffles and Indian fry bread continue throughout the day. Free. 476-5200,

August 30 & 31, Saturday & Sunday Games, crafts and entertainment for the whole family highlight the annual twoday Fiesta de los Niños: A Children’s Celebration at El Rancho de las Golondrinas. 471-2261,

ONGOING EVENTS The Georgia O’Keeffe Museum

continues its exhibits — Georgia O’Keeffe and Ansel Adams: The Hawaii Pictures and Georgia O’Keeffe: Abiquiu Views — through Sept. 14. 946-1000, Historical downtown walking tours are led by New Mexico History Museum/ Palace of the Governors guides Monday-Saturday mornings throughout the summer. 476-5100,

Make the O Keeffe part of your family experience Have fun and learn tHrougH art

The Santa Fe Artists Market,

showcasing juried area artists, is held each Saturday, 8 a.m.-1 p.m., at the Railyard Park. Free. 310-1555,

1 o’k to go

The Santa Fe Society of Artists

presents its members’ work in the parking lot behind First National Bank on the Plaza most weekends throughout the summer. 926-1497,

Create an original work of art while relaxing in our beautiful courtyard. Friday, Saturday and Monday from 10:30-12:30.

The Santa Fe Farmers Market is held

Saturday and Tuesday mornings in and around the Farmers Market Pavilion in the Santa Fe Railyard. 983-4098,

2 discovery packets pick up a sketchbook and pencil and enjoy this unique opportunity to sketch inside the Museum’s galleries

Turquoise, Water, Sky: The Stone and Its Meaning highlights the summer exhibits at the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture on Museum Hill. 476-1269, The exhibits Brasil & Arte Popular and Wooden Menagerie: Made in New Mexico continue at the Museum of International Folk Art on Museum Hill. 476-1200, www.internationalfolkart. org.

3 saturday morning family programs Kids and their grown-ups can enjoy exhibit-related activities once a month at the Museum.

The Museum of Spanish Colonial Art on Museum Hill features its ongoing exhibit, Early 20th Century Artists of New Mexico. 982-2226, www. The Santa Fe Garden Club hosts the annual Pequeno Home and Garden Tours of three beautiful homes and

high-desert gardens throughout the summer. 984-0022,

O n V ie w th r Oug h S epteMber 14

georgia o’keeffe and ansel adams: tHe Hawai‘i pictures abiquiu views

The New Mexico History Museum

features Poetics of Light: Pinhole Photography, a premier of original prints by photographers from around the world. The photography exhibit Donald Woodman: Transformed by New Mexico continues. 476-5200, Kay Lockridge is a Santa Fe editor, writer and former Associated Press reporter.

217 Johnson street, santa Fe, nM = 5o5.946.1ooo

Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


28th Annual

Contemporary Hispanic Market July 26th & 27th 2014

Saturday 8 to 5, Sunday 9 to 5 Lincoln Ave., Santa Fe, NM (Next to Historical Santa Fe Plaza)

“El Santero” by Amado Pena Official 2014 Contemporary Hispanic Market Poster

Preview Show Friday, July 25th

5:30 – 8PM at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center 201 W. Marcy St., Santa Fe For information call Robb Rael, 505-429-6996 • All events are free to the public 114



Ignite your senses. Experience world-class Spanish dance in a truly intimate theater setting. JULY 2 – AUGUST 31, 2014 Performances nightly except Tuesdays | The Lodge at Santa Fe | Tickets: $25-$45 | (505) 988-1234 or Summer Visitors Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico


Breathtaking. Elegant. Unique.

Your Jeweler for Generations On the Santa Fe Plaza 505.988.1561 | 505.603.0191

2014 Bienvenidos Summer Visitors Guide  

Summer visitors guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

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