RENÜ

R E N Ü

SUSTAINABILITY ISSUE

PHOTOGRAPHY BY EDWARD JONES

EDITOR’S NOTE CONTRIBUTORS

Jenny Li

Sustainability in the world of fashion is to make items from garments to shoes to jewellery, that doesn’t over consume natural resources nor does it add to the mounting waste created in the process of manufacturing and distribution.

Renü’s goal is to explore every area of fashion and its commitment to sustainability in an effort to continue making the Earth habitable. It’s also a place for students to share their thoughts, feelings and work in relation to this cause, especially those in the heart of a city formerly known as, Cottonopolis. Where better to begin this journey than in Renü’s first issue, aptly named, sustainability. This sustainability issue sets the tone for Renü’s message and our focus, which is completely in pursuit of broadening the conversation around ethical and sustainable fashion. Renü is a magazine for Manchester students, by Manchester students who are conscious of fashion’s environmental impact.

There is also a double meaning by calling it the ‘sustainability issue’. Not only are we set on discussing some topics such as; the sustainability goals of large companies and corporations and spotlighting small brands that are built on ethical and sustainable means. Renü is also about

investigating some of the problems and the solutions that face the word sustainability, in the fashion industry. We strive to explore how this notion is enacted and whether known brands are gaslighting and greenwashing the public or if their true nature is in sustainability.

In this debut issue, sustainability is imbued throughout and I hope you are inspired to be mindful about fashion, and continue this exploration with Renü for more sustainable fashion content. Some of which will bring forth the student experience and portfolios that will engage with the ever changing world of fashion that we anticipate will move towards renewable ways .

Sub Editor

Olivia Dennison

Art Director

Lydia Hickson

Jenny Li Editor-in-Chief

Writers

Jenny Li

Olivia Dennsion

Manasi Tushar Prabhoo

Adam Noor

Antony Tom

Emily Grittith-Mortimer

Lydia Hickson

Photographer

Edward Jones

Editor-in-Chief

What’s On for S/S 23?

April

1st - Future Fashion Fair: The Yard, Manchester

A slow fashion market created for those interested in a sustainable and circular economy. Local vendors in the industry will take part in this interesting showcase.There will also be workshops on upcycling and recycling as well as talks around conscious consumption and other areas of sustainability.

16th - Manchester Fashion: Left Bank, Manchester

A show featuring the latest from designers in Manchester, Liverpool and London. Curated with sustainability and diversity in mind, the event will display looks for every occasion to inspire your wardrobe.

20th - Vintage handbag up-cycling workshop: Flock and Gaggle MediaCity, Salford

If you’re on a journey to upcycle your wardrobe, then this is perfect for you! Learn how to transform a vintage handbag with koukou kreations and there’s no need to bring anything. Just show up, ready to create and bring life back into something old.

21st - The Association of Dress Historians Annual New Research Conference 2023: Online/Manchester Metropolitan University, Business School

Manchester Metropolitan University will present this hybrid event, in which scholars of fashion and textile history all around the world will discuss their research. If this piques your curiosity then be sure to drop in and listen to panels of experts showcase their findings.

22nd - The Textile Society Annual Conference 2023: Museum of Science and Industry, Manchester

This conference discusses differing views and innovations in the textile world and marks the Textile Society’s 40th anniversary. Features guest speakers across a range of industries who will be engrossing you with their knowledge in their respective industries – Dr Christine Checinska, Asif Khan MBE, Adam Mansell, Carry Somers and Jonathan Watkins.

23rd - The Textile Society’s Manchester Antique and Vintage Textile Fair 2023: The Armitage Centre, Manchester

This year marks the 30th year for the Antique and Vintage Textile Fair. As well as being a source of inspiration for designers and those with a passion for textiles, it’s a place that brings experts and dealers of antiques and vintage textiles from around the world. Avid upcyclers will definitely find interesting vintage fabrics that they want to work into custom pieces, so there’s something for everyone!

May

12th - Fashion Business Technology Showcase & Reception 2023: Online/University of Manchester, Engineering Building

Hosted by the University of Manchester, this event is “a hybrid showcase, connecting research and talent to industry”. The event aims to show innovation in fashion business technology from postgraduates, graduates and University of Manchester specialists. Some key points of interest that will be discussed are: sustainability, diversity and inclusion, materials innovation and many more.

July

1st - Afro Fashion Show & Entertainment: Hilton Hotel Deansgate, Manchester

A day to celebrate Afro-Caribbean designers and to bring diversity into the fashion industry where it lacks innovation and inclusivity. There will also be live performances at this event and plenty of chances to build connections and broaden your scope of fashion.

8th-9th - The Sustainability Show: Manchester Central Convention Complex

A free exhibition for all things sustainable. From Fashion to food and drink to transport, it has it all for anyone wanting an immersive experience and would like to learn more about becoming eco-friendly in all aspects of their life.

14th-16th - Northern Fashion Week NFW23: Manchester Central Convention Complex

“An immersive event like no other – championing northern talent and developing northern industry”. This event will be a great place for discussion, networking and checking out what the North has to offer in fashion innovation as well as, being an event to see current and emerging designers.

A Brief History of Sustainable Fashion

By Emily Griffith-Mortimer

The effects of climate change have become more apparent within recent years. According to The United Nations Environmental Programme, the fashion industry alone produces around 1.2 billion tonnes of greenhouse gases a year; that’s roughly 8% of humanity’s carbon emissions. With the ever growing demand for action against climate change, the fashion industry has begun to combat this through sustainable fashion. Sustainable fashion practices have been around for centuries, although they were not always referred to as such. Let’s explore the rise of sustainable fashion …

19th CENTURY

It was very common practice for those within low income families to create their own clothing using fabric scraps or hand-me-downs. Other sustainable practices included handicrafts such as knitting, crocheting and lace making.

With housewives becoming factory workers during difficult times, they put their skills to the test to "make do and mend" as global resources became scarce due to the two world wars. Clothing production was of a higher quality, making clothes last a lot longer than what we are used to in the modern day.

1950s

1960s

1940s

As the world started to regain its resources postwar, companies began to heavily market themselves to the consumer. Advertisements were everywhere; magazines, TV, billboards. Mass production was back in full swing and overseas factories made garments cheaper, sacrificing quality for quantity.

Younger generations began to protest against their elders through countercultures such as the hippy and punk movements. Counterculture challenges social norms and values and in the case of sustainability,they brought to light how industries were polluting the planet.These subcultures began creating their own garments from organic materials as well as upcycling old pieces into new.

1970s

The World Fair Trade Organization (WFTO) was founded by 75 countries. The WFTO is a global community that is committed to promoting and supporting fairer trade practices such as equal opportunities, transparency and accountability and fair pay for all. However, the Fair Trade movement has been an active part in changing the industry since 1946 through the activism of Edna Ruth Byler. Since the beginning of the movement, it has actively improved local economies and business by creating safe work practices that wouldn’t have been readily available to them.

1989

December

31st 1989

The term “fast-fashion” was first used in an article called “Fashion; Two New Stores That Cruise Fashion's Fast Lane” by The New York Times journalist Anne-Marie Schiro. She used the term to describe how fast clothing items were going from factory to consumer after hitting the runway. Although people were becoming aware of the lasting effects of fast-fashion, it wouldn’t be till the mid 1990’s that the matter would be taken seriously.

Kate Fletcher is a sustainable fashion pioneer and has been credited for the use of the word “slow fashion”. Slow fashion is a more mindful and ethical approach to fashion that prioritises sustainability,social justice,and respect for the environment. Fletcher has worked closely with manufacturers within the fashion sector to create business models that promote sustainability. She has even gone as far as planting almost 2 acres of hemp as a material alternative for the UK industry.

2007

2019

The United Nations formed the Alliance for Sustainable Fashion with the goal to change the path of the fashion industry and reduce its negative environmental and social impact. The UN believes that the fashion industry can be a driver in the implementation of sustainability and inspire other industries. Some practices they have already implemented with one being Forests4Fashion, a campaign launched in 2014 to encourage renewable forestry within the fashion sector.

Today, sustainable fashion is a rapidly growing industry, with an increasing demand from consumers for more eco-friendly and ethical clothing. A study conducted by Statista in 2020, showed how a fifth of the UK population were being more eco-conscious by exclusively purchasing from sustainable brands. From recycled materials to zero-waste production, sustainable fashion is evolving and becoming more innovative as we strive to reduce the impact of the fashion industry on the environment .

2023

PATAGONIA PLEDGE FUNDS TO THE PLANET

Acompany built on a love for the outdoors, Patagonia has never existed solely for its retail production but has always had its core purposes in the activism that lies at the organization’s roots. Its history of innovative design of mountaineering gear and clothing has brought the brand huge success, but it is their ongoing campaigning work that perpetuate the values and existence of the company. ‘Protect Wild Places’ and ‘Regenerative Organic Agriculture’ are just two of the many campaigns in action at Patagonia now.

Since 1985, Patagonia has pledged 1% of their sales revenue to preserving and protecting the natural environment and have now made an even bolder move in a time where Earth’s temperatures are rising to what scientists deem an “unacceptable risk”, noting that we are at least one degree above preindustrial levels, according to a United Nations article that discussed the findings of a September 2019 report on climate change by the World Meteorological Organization.

In September 2022 The Guardian reported that the founder of the outdoor clothing retailer, Yvon Chouinard, solidified his declaration to combatting the climate crisis, when he handed over 98% of non-reinvested profits from all sales to a new not-for-profit trust called the Holdfast Collective. In a company statement,they outlined that the Holdfast Collective aims to fight the, “environmental crisis, protect biodiversity and nature and

Yvon Chouniard by Tom Frost

support thriving communities”, but more specific detail is yet to come on its strategies to achieve this colossal work. In a press release announcing the news of the company’s new path, chair of the board Charles Conn said he believes that ‘Companies that create the next model of capitalism through deep commitment to purpose will attract more investment, better employees, and deeper customer loyalty’. Work that betters the world and the lives of the people in it is work that everybody will want to be a part of.

Relinquishing his role as Patagonia’s

an interview with The New York Times (NYT) back in September 2022, where he explained why he was giving away his company, he felt angst from being reported as a billionaire businessman by Forbes in 2017. Saying to NYT, “I was in Forbes magazine listed as a billionaire, which really, really pissed me off. I don’t have $1bn in the bank. I don’t drive Lexuses”. The label did not sit well with him, as somebody who had already been giving away much of his earnings to humanitarian endeavours.

What sets Chouinard apart from his fellow billionaires that are also

The Holdfast Collective aims to fight the environmental crisis, protect biodiversity and nature and support thriving communities

owner, The Chouinard family will now oversee the Patagonia Purpose Trust, which receives the remaining two percent of Patagonia’s non-reinvested sales profits and focuses on protecting the company’s values.The trust will have the ability to maintain control of the company’s organisational structure and its board of directors, which is essential to keeping the purpose of Patagonia alive. The family will continue as members of Patagonia’s board as well as helping to direct the humanitarian work conducted by the Holdfast Collective.

Chouinard’s generosity is not just philanthropic but also political. In

donating to philanthropic pursuits, is that others are still the powerful individuals making the decisions, and they have an influential impact on society and therefore on the climate crisis. The Patagonia founder’s bold move to hand over the company to a trust dedicated to combating climate change is extremely noble, and it will be interesting to see how visible the newly formed trust is to the public regarding its campaign strategies and its placement of funding .

By Olivia Dennison

Yvon Chouniard by Campbell Brewer

Yvon Chouinard by Tom Frost

5 Sustainable Online Fashion Brands to Check Out!

BY JENNY LI

Samsung KX commissioned a study to mark the Slow Catwalk Finale in 2021 and found that 60% of students are ready to ditch fast fashion, however 30% also answered that they didn’t know where to start with eco-friendly fashion and “almost 40% agreed that more education would help tackle this”. With this in mind, here are just five brands to get you started in eco-friendly fashion:

UNLESS Collective

A streetwear brand based in Portland, Oregon, that has built itself on the knowledge that only 15% of textiles are recycled while the rest are in landfills, therefore, they say their clothes are created with a “zero plastic waste end in mind”. Since 60% of clothes are made from plastic which affects their recyclability and are not biodegradable. UNLESS makes the point that all their clothes are entirely plant-based from buttons to labels, so that at the end-of-life of a garment it can harmlessly decompose. In addition, they have a ‘takeback’ scheme in which you can send back worn UNLESS pieces for them to repair, recycle or compost. Definitely a brand to look at if you’re looking to add conscious trendy unisex streetwear to your closet.

Unlesscollective.com

With Nothing Underneath

A London-based womenswear brand for those looking to update their smart casual wear with pieces that have sustainability in mind. “Inspired by men’s tailoring”, they have an array of shirt styles from the oversized fit of the ‘boyfriend’ to the elegant ‘cocktail’. Furthermore, they have a range of materials to choose from, many of which are Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certified such as their cotton and poplin. There is also the choice of more versatile and renewable fabrics like hemp and Tencel, which are both biodegradable. Tencel being the most interesting if you want a shirt that doesn’t easily crease or crinkle.

Withnothingunderneath.com

Ana Luisa

“A jewelry brand with a simple, but clear cut idea. That high quality jewelry shouldn’t cost the planet”. Accessories are another statement piece in fashion but, the waste produced by jewellery manufacturing and

especially mining for metals and gemstones, often gets overlooked. New York-based Ana Luisa has made a conscious effort to offset the waste in all areas of this process and therefore, are “100% carbon and water neutral”. They are also on a mission to become more circular by “increasing the percentage of recycled raw materials in our designs” and it “will remain an everlasting goal of ours to reduce emissions from our upstream operations.” A great option if you’re looking to elevate your jewellery collection but want to go about it in an ecofriendly manner.

Analuisa.com

Virón

A footwear brand based in one of the major fashion capitals of the world, Paris, has stepped up in an industry that seemingly has no sustainable options. They use “recycled, upcycled and bio-based earth-friendly materials”. With some shoe models, the soles are made with 70% recycled rubber and the insoles use 40% recycled plastic bottles, other models are entirely made from recycled material. They also use a leather substitute, AppleSkin™, a material made from waste in the apple juice industry. A perfect brand for if you’re looking for en vogue unisex styles that are ethically made, by a vegan and PETA certified label.

Viron-world.com

Community Clothing

Community Clothing’s goal is to make affordable clothing from sustainable materials with 100% of their production being in the UK. Part of what makes their business model unique, is that they make seasonless staples all year round as their manufacturing is not structured around the fashion seasons. Though they use cotton in their products, it is GOTS certified and it’s farmed using “modern sustainable, organic and regenerative farming practices”. So if you’re looking for sustainable wardrobe must-haves that never go out of style for men and women, then this brand is for you.

Communityclothing.co.uk

If you do check out these brands, you’ll see that price is not a factor considered here for most of these brands (sorry students) as, unfortunately sustainability comes with a price though rest assured that these products are built to last without the excessive environmental impact .

Vintage Vs Fast Fashion:The Problems, Solutions & Where to Start Shopping Vintage?

By Olivia Dennison

We all love a unique style. Fashion is arguably one of the most explicit ways to express this. Our style encompasses our personality and is often the main signifier to those around us of what kind of a person we are. Fashion is a way of making a statement and it can portray things about us such as our interests, humour, approach to life and what subcultures we belong to, the list goes on and on.

Additionally, how we display ourselves through clothing depends on a myriad of overlapping factors such as available retailers, our taste in clothing, our budget and the people that influence us. Vintage shopping has always been popular among students, perhaps due to the bargains that can be found or a desire to express individuality, to differentiate themselves in a sea of people of the same age that likely shop at the same known retailers.

Vintage has been defined by Vogue as clothing or accessories that were made 20+ years ago. Vintage is so popular because the quality generally stands the test of time and wasn’t on the same scale of mass manufacturing and distributing that you see today. So, let’s explore some more ways

and benefits of shopping vintage instead of shopping fast fashion.

We all have a certain budget to shop with and this can be especially difficult for students. Some vintage stores in city centre areas such as Manchester can be extremely overpriced; there’s always a shabby, grey Nike hoodie with holes being sold for £40+. This can make it much easier for students to head to the Arndale or the Trafford Centre and spring for fast fashion brands for affordable versions of the same style or, for example, even buy the modern

version of that

a cheaper price during sale season. And who can blame them? It’s much simpler to stride into a high-street, chain retailer with the comfort of knowing you’ll be able to secure an on-trend top for this weekend’s night out for under £20.

Fast fashion is also readily available, but this is not necessarily a positive. The probability of somebody else arriving at the party in the same top after rushing to the same store post-5pm lecture to secure an outfit for the evening is not unlikely. We’ve all been there, and

Nike hoodie at

Photography by Edward Jones

it’s the worst feeling. What’s to separate the two of you now? The whole evening becomes a mental torment of ‘Who wore it better?’. People you haven’t met before confuse the two of you for each other, and you certainly will never wear the top again out of embarrassment.While the garment may have seemed cool and just like something you had seen your favourite TikTok influencer in, you realise now that this is its purpose.

High-street retail brands exist to appeal to masses of people. The clothes may be ok, but they

London where you can snatch 1kg of clothes for £15, which is enough weight for a whole outfit! I remember visiting my first kilo sale on my seventeenth birthday. I fell in love with a meshy, purple blouse with flared sleeves, that’s still in my wardrobe now. It will never not slay when paired with black, flared trousers and chunky cowboy boots (think Stevie Nicks!). I’ve been a loyal attendee to kilo sales ever since.

Charity shopping is also a great way to find vintage clothes and brands you love without breaking the bank,

life-changing impact that shopping for pre-loved clothing can have.

Charity shops in cities may come with a higher price tag due to their location and demand. However, heading to those that are near to university campuses is a great way to find amazing, donated items from students that have similar taste to you. Not only does shopping second hand in charity stores help vulnerable people, but it also helps the planet. By purchasing pre-loved clothing, you are reusing and recycling, reducing landfill, reducing the world’s

are often plain, so that they can be adapted to anybody’s style. Conglomerates that own many of the most successful retails brands take little risk with their collections, so that they can produce a colossal scale of stock that they can guarantee will sell and be loved by everyone.Yes, they might be a cheap, quick fix for your last-minute fashion emergencies, but there are also ways around paying a fortune for vintage fashion.

Universities and their student societies often hold their own clothes exchanges or kilo sales that encourage students to shop second-hand or vintage clothing. Kilo sales are a great way to get the most for your money. Vintage store Blue Rinse hosts kilo sales in Manchester, Leeds and

and it dedicates your hard-earned money to a good cause. Charities undertake a massive amount of work to support those that are vulnerable. So here’s where your money could be going if you choose to shop second hand…

If you shop at Oxfam, you are supporting people working towards ending poverty. Money raised from Mind stores is spent supporting people experiencing mental health problems. British Heart Foundation stores help to fund medical research that combats heart and circulatory diseases. When you make a purchase at an RSPCA shop, you are supporting people who are undertaking animal rescue and promoting animal welfare. These are just a few examples of the

carbon footprint, and reducing emissions that are created from importing mass produced fast fashion. By shopping for preowned clothing, you are also refusing to support poor working conditions and exploitation often attached to fast fashion retailers.

Another perk to shopping for vintage clothing is that vintage stores are not confined to stocking certain sizes and shapes of clothing. This often restricts the customer base of many high-street stores and does not represent the diversity of body types in the population. High-street retailers produce specific styles in specific sizes which gatekeeps certain looks for a specific type of person. Many vintage clothes, as a result of being reworked

By purchasing pre-loved clothing, you are reusing and recycling, reducing landfill, reducing the world’s carbon footprint, and reducing emissions...

or mended, do not have sizes labelled on them, and this can be an extremely freeing way to shop.

The amazing thing about vintage clothes is that anybody is encouraged to wear them regardless of age, gender, body type and so on. They come from the past and are not being marketed to or pushed onto a certain type of person. Everybody wears vintage clothes differently, and whether

when you try it on it’s oversized, cropped, baggy or figure-hugging, there is nobody there to tell you how it should be worn. Rules go out of the window when you step foot in a vintage store. If you are struggling to find your perfect size in a reworked clothing shop, many also offer alteration services, so keep your eyes peeled!

Vintage clothes are loved for their ability to be styled in a unique way

and to express our personalities. Clashing colours, mixed-andmatched patterns and layering are all encouraged when creating vintage looks, it really can be more is more! Whilst high-street brands and their monotonous collections encourage sameness and fitting into society, swapping vogue for vintage is a fun way to style yourself if your taste does not conform to what everybody else is wearing.

To reiterate, vintage garments are often designed with high quality materials that can stand the test of time and lots of wear. We’ve all purchased denim jeans whose colour has faded after a handful of washes, but those classic Levi’s 501s that were first invented way back in 1873? They’ve got you. There’s no need to keep re-investing your hard-earned money in low-quality denim that you’re forced to dispose of after it splits only a few wears in, when you can find the perfect, highcalibre fit for under £25, and at the same time discourage crowded landfills. Who wouldn’t want to save money and shop ethically?

As previously mentioned, not all vintage stores have an extremely affordable price tag, so it isn’t about limiting your entire wardrobe to these shops only. A few, little changes can go a long way. You can save yourself lots of money, lower your carbon footprint and create your own unique style by shopping vintage. Or, maybe you’ll find inspiration to begin reworking your own clothes, and finally purchase that sowing machine you’ve always wanted! This is a great way to create truly individual looks and prevent textile waste. So next time you’re looking for a new statement necklace, some chunky Dr Martens, or a new top for the weekend, consider shopping vintage first !

Rules go out of the window when you step foot in a vintage store...

Photography by Edward Jones

BEG STEAL & BORROW

THE NEW AGE OF OLD FASHION

BY LYDIA HICKSON PHOTOGRAPHY BY EDWARD JONES

If you ever find yourself in Manchester’s famous Affleks, head to the second floor and look out for the colour pink. Nestled among the many shops you’ll find a store called Beg,, Steal and Borrow. In all its eclectic glory, Beg Steal and Borrow houses everything from Y2K bags to classic denim jeans. Whatever the occasion, BS&B has something for everyone.

What makes the store unique is their approach to sustainability. Erin, the shop’s owner, founded her quirky store with not only the earth in mind, but also a desire to provide fashionable clothes at a reasonable price. In many vintage shops one approaches the price tag with bated breath, but not here, making it the perfect spot for a student on a budget. Really strapped for cash? Beg, Steal and Borrow offer a swap initiative, bring in your unwanted clothes and take something new home !

The shop was so up our street, we decided to hold a photoshoot to show you all it has to offer.

SUSTAINABLE MATERNITY: Bump, Baby, and You

by Manasi T Prabhoo

According to Grand New Research, the worldwide maternity wear market was worth USD 18.3 billion in 2018 and is expected to grow at a 4.3% CAGR from 2019 to 2025. The increased attention on pregnancy fashion and the growing number of working, pregnant women in developing and emerging countries are driving market expansion. Maternity fashion can be wasteful due to women only requiring these clothes mainly through the course of their pregnancy, resulting in them being discarded soon after. Many of these clothes end up in landfills, where they will slowly disintegrate over time. The demand for low-cost apparel has only worsened these issues. We interiwed a fashion student from Manchester Metropolitan University who worked on creating some sustainable maternity jackets.

Photos by Pavel Danilyuk/www.pexels.com/@pavel-danilyuk/

Kshiteeja Gandre, 23, an MA Fashion Design Technology student, is currently pursuing her postgraduate degree at Manchester Metropolitan University’s Institute of Fashion. In this interview, she discusses and showcases sketches of her project with us, titled, ‘Bump, Baby and You’, explaining to us the process of designing her sustainable maternity pieces.

What was your aim when you first started this project?

I want to create clothes for females who do not want to invest in multiple garments at different stages of pregnancy and even after birth. During my research it came to my notice that women in America spend about $500 and more on maternity clothes, which is a huge investment. I want to make garments that benefit post-pregnancy and are long term.

What are the pieces that you have come up with?

Versatility is the key to motherhood, and I’ll be making stylish outerwear that can be worn during pregnancy into motherhood and beyond. My pieces include multi-purpose jackets that are waterproof and can be adjusted according to the bump size during pregnancy. It comes with a detachable pregnancy bump panel and detachable baby wearing panel that can be worn in the front as well as the back.They also feature flap pockets, zipper pockets, and detachable pockets with magnetic closure for easy use.

What was your first step into your research?

First and foremost, I had to trace down the history of maternity wear. It shocked me to know that during the Victorian Era, 19th century, clothes were made for women so they could hide their pregnancy. It is understood that pregnancy was a private affair that was not meant to be included in ‘polite conversations.’ In the early 20th century when the first wave of feminism gained momentum and the working class of women increased, special maternity wear was designed and introduced into the market by American designers. Wrap-around skirts and draw-string shirts were one of the first pieces of maternity wear design. As society and the years progressed ahead, new styles were introduced.

How do your jackets solve the garment waste problem?

The most important thing is that my jackets are unisex. For women during pregnancy, bump panels are attached to cater to the growing bump and after the baby is born, men can wear the jacket with the detachable baby wearing panel that serves as baby carriers. The jackets can be worn casually as well without the panels. These jackets also come with detachable hoods. So, one jacket can be worn in many ways by both the mother and the father. It meets their demands and is cost-effective as well. In the era of fast fashion, where only 1% of clothes are recycled, a jacket like this would greatly contribute towards creating less textile waste.

Could you tell us about the fabrics you used for designing the jackets?

I am committed to minimizing my environmental impact, and that's why I have used end-of-roll waste fabric from luxury brands. By repurposing these leftover materials, I am reducing textile waste and creating something beautiful and functional.The outer and the main fabric will be cotton from Loro Piana which is waterproof and windproof. Even though Loro Piana is a luxury brand, I want to source the fabrics second hand which will not only be cheaper but also recycled. For the inner lining fabric, soft shell fleece will be used. This fabric is often a woven blend of polyester and nylon for resilience and comfort. Most outdoor clothes and gears are made of this fabric which are extremely breathable, comfortable to the skin, and can be used for many years.

Are there any other additional features in the jackets?

Yes. For the comfort of the mother, father, and the baby, I have tried to add certain minimal functional things. To support the changes in the body during pregnancy, adjustable toggles are up in the front. Loops are added to support a lightweight toy for the baby or to hand detachable pockets. The pockets come with magnetic snaps that are added for easy wearing

as velcro will be harsh for the baby. The zip lining also comes with a flap so that it won’t interfere with the baby’s movements. The baby wearing panel also has adjustable toggles to accommodate a growing baby. The pregnancy bump panel comes with adjustable drawstrings which can be altered according to the need. The jacket also houses a detachable hood.

Lastly, how do you think that we could all contribute to championing sustainable fashion?

The primary step would be to stop buying from fast fashion outlets. As tempting as the styles may look and lighter, they feel on the wallet, JUST STOP buying from them. Instead make a one-time purchase that would last you many years. Opt for charity shops and second-hand apps like Vinted, Ebay, Depop etc. Clothing rentals are also becoming a thing nowadays. Try renting clothes for important events instead of buying new ones which will only be worn once or twice.Try to recycle your clothes by making them into bags, rags, carpets, pullover blankets etc. Many high street brands such as H&M, have recycling stations in their shops where points are added for recycling. These may look like little things, but collectively they make a lot of difference to the environment .

Kshiteeja’s jacket strives to give parents a sense of empowerment and convenience. “I understand the difficulties that come with pregnancy and parenthood, and I wanted to create something that can meet their needs while also keeping them fashionable and comfortable. I’m providing a practical and effective option for parents with my multi-purpose jacket. I intend to assist families in saving money and minimize waste by offering a low purchase and sustainable option.” Sustainable fashion is a positive trend that is assisting in the reduction of the fashion industry’s environmental waste. We can all help to create a more sustainable future for fashion by choosing fabrics that are natural and not chemically made, reusing and recycling clothes, purchasing secondhand and vintage items, and supporting sustainable brands.

KSHITEEJA’S SKETCHES

Sustainable Brand Spotlight: KOA

By Olivia Dennison

Based in Sully, South Wales, KOA are an ethically driven jewellery retailer, who create stunning products that reflect the beautiful coastline of their studio base. Their modest designs radiate the harmonious, tranquil energy of the nature that surrounds them, with calming blues and greens in their designs and featuring simple, plant or astronomical inspired shapes. This affordable, eco-conscious jeweller is our favourite new source of modern accessories. KOA products are created from a material called pewter, containing 100% recycled tin from discarded electronic goods, whereby the jeweller describe themselves on their website as ‘creating beauty from waste’. The brand has a solid focus on quality over quantity,

with small scale production that has emphasis on craftsmanship and artistry over commerce. While their designs are delicate, their recycled material is built to last, with pewter having an anti-tarnish quality. It also does not contain nickel or lead, which is often the result of skin irritation from jewellery, so your skin will always feel fresh after each wear! Each thoughtfully packaged purchase also comes complete with postcards on how to care for your new jewellery, As an independent business, KOA strives to only work with small businesses that produce high quality products. They believe this gives them a network that promotes artistry and sustainability among shop-keepers, curators and customers! What’s not to love?

FAST FASHION CAN NEVER BE SUSTAINABLE

BY JENNY LI

According to Wrap.org, An estimated £140 million worth of clothing is sent to UK landfill each year – these figures do not show signs of decreasing any time soon.

Greenwashing has become a prominent term in recent discussions in the economy of sustainable fashion. Sustainable Jungle gives a general definition of the term greenwashing as a, “process of using misleading or false information about a company’s operations and/or products to deceive customers and members of the public about their environmental impact”.

The first thing that comes to mind are the fast fashion companies with so called ‘sustainable’ ranges such as, H&M which used to have a Conscious Collection. Though to give them the benefit of the doubt, they have stopped this collection in favour of focusing on being transparent with their main line of clothing and accessories. For example, you can now track the manufacturing of their products and learn from their site, how to repair clothes amongst other information on maintaining sustainability with fashion. Also, the H&M group has been releasing yearly Sustainability Disclosure reports since the early 2000s. Their latest report in 2021 says that they’ve tripled their use of recycled materials in their garments from 5.8% 17.9%.

However, it may seem that a large global fast fashion company has finally committed to going all in to the sustainability cause, it most likely has more to do with a complaint filed last July 2022 in a New York federal court, over their ‘Conscious’ line. In the

court filing the nature of the case is, “about H&M’s labelling, marketing, and advertising that is designed to mislead consumers about its products’ environmental attributes, through the use of false and misleading “environmental scorecards” for its products called “Sustainability Profiles.”” – essentially greenwashing.

If it takes a lawsuit over greenwashing to move the needle in the right direction for a 76 year old company to truly look into sustainable options for their garments, then we are nowhere near any goal of reducing garment waste. A December 2019 New York Times article reported that the “H&M group sells an estimated three billion articles of clothing per year. Its revenue makes it among the top three fashion retailers in the world”. With that fact in mind, there is no way that a company of this magnitude and selling power can be classed anywhere near sustainable and affirms that sustainability in fast fashion is an illusion; creating a false sense of security for the fashion junkies out there that can’t wait to get their hands on the next trending dubiously made £2 top.

Most recent example of greenwashing was the Boohoo by Kourtney Kardashian Barker sustainable collection. Ironic. Clearly, an attempt to cash-in on fans of the celebrity because, we all know she is most likely wearing a designer garment most of the time therefore, not likely the consistent Boohoo

shopper. Boohoo uses this as an attempt to show their commitment to sustainability, saying in the description for this collection that they have “considered sustainability in so many ways”. One of which is using recycled materials but only on certain items, those with the ‘ready for the future’ leaf icon, use completely recycled materials. Once any hype for the collection is over then it all goes on sale for a staggeringly reduced price, some of which are at 72% off, going back down to the price of regular pieces on the site.

How can selling strategies like this possibly contribute to sustainability? When it’s clear that they are continuing to make garments at a low cost, pricing them high before reducing their value to make them more sellable. One of Boohoo’s earliest sustainability targets is that by 2023 they would “launch resale and recycling offers across our brands”. It’s 2023 and there are no signs of this beginning to be implemented.

Instead they have an outlet section and continue to come out with new clothes as the ’new in’ section remains. Not that the resale or recycling of these garments would be any better for the environment and in the wider fast fashion space, there’s still a problem with overproduction that completely overshadows any ideas these types of companies have of becoming sustainable. Sustainability is a façade for fast fashion to appear moral and lacks any true intention of reducing waste, a fraudulent commitment to the environment that comes well below capitalistic greed.

industry. Students are drawn to fast fashion because it fits in their budget and throw away society is rampant among students, which dictates the shelf life of garments. The cheapness and quality of brands such as PrettyLittleThing, makes it clear that there’s no easy way to stop this.

Unless they significantly scale back production or get rid of their ‘new in’ sections to make a point that they are ending fast fashion and putting their attention towards resale or recycling tactics. But, there is hope currently. Since, for a long time, the onus has been on the customers who buy fast fashion to be the one that figures out a sustainable means of disposing of their clothes. It’s refreshing to see these retail giants step up in some ways, albeit, still having some distrust in how far they will go for this cause. At least they’re becoming self-aware. We also need to decondition fast fashion from our wardrobes, which doesn’t mean throw them away, but, reuse them and not treat that as a one-wear item and make sure the pieces that we do buy are essential.

It’s bewildering to think that the only way to reduce clothing waste is solely on the customer to figure out how to reuse, reduce, and recycle their clothing. It’s simply not enough! A real concerted effort needs to be made by these companies to actively affect the

Circular fashion. Good On You gives the definition of this as, a way of production that “ditches the linear “take-make-waste” model and instead asks the industry to close the loop on production, including responsible manufacturing, use and end-of-life for every garment”. This might be the best resolution to fast fashion companies so far, as some have alluded to working towards this direction for example, it is something noted in Boohoo’s sustainability plans. Good On You provides further insightful information on circular fashion but essentially, it’s about repurposing a garment over and over again until it cannot be repurposed anymore, giving even garments classed as non-recyclable, some ‘recyclability’.

Sustainability in fast fashion is an illusion; creating a false sense of security for the fashion junkies out there that can’t wait to get their hands on the next trending dubiously made £2 top.

The Ugly Truth About Your Pretty Little Things

By Adam Noor

Out-out tomorrow?

Of course you are, you wouldn’t miss it for the world.

But you’ve got nothing to wear!

Well - nothing you haven’t worn before. Nothing that five other girls won’t be wearing too. Nothing you’re really feeling.

So, you scroll through an endless selection of polyester party dresses. Backless, bodycon and blazer dresses. Mini, midi and maxi dresses. Until you find the perfect one.

Perfect, that is, until it arrives of course.

The doorbell goes and before you can stop to think, you’re tearing through layers of plastic to reveal the plastic you’ll pull over your head. Once it’s on, it looks almost like it did in the pictures. I mean, sure, it ruches across your stomach and it’s three inches shorter than you expected. But really, what can you expect for £4.99.

Then again, the price you pay is never the same as the cost. The true cost is paid in full, by millions of workers in sweatshops thousands of miles away from you and your dress.

They pay with their bodies, their children’s bodies, in intolerable conditions for a fraction of your £4.99. Toiling thread by thread, each worker knows that they will never be able to afford the fruits of their own labour.

Now, this same thread runs down your seam, connecting you, try as you might to forget, to a tapestry of exploitation. A system in which you can sport your very own ‘#FEMINIST’ shirt made by a 10-year-old girl in Bangladesh.

The glamour of our love for fashion is fading fast. The UK was once synonymous with the craftsmanship of Saville Row and the D.I.Y philosophy of the Punk Revolution is now known for buying more clothes per person than any country in Europe.

Our addiction to fast fashion can be seen everywhere. According to Greenpeace UK, staples of the UK high street like Primark, H&M and Zara are among the worst offenders when it comes to disregarding the environmental and humanitarian impact of their businesses in the interest of maximising profit margins.

What’s worse is that, according to Greenpeace, 300,000 tonnes of these garments are incinerated or sent to landfill sites every year, with a considerable amount of them never being worn or even sold. This ‘costeffective’ method of disposing of deadstock causes huge ecological damages to our planet which are even more worrying when considering the amount of fossil fuels needed to create these products in the first place.

Take for instance, the fact that buying a single white cotton shirt produces the same number of emissions as driving 35 miles in a car. When this industry creates products made from our most precious resources, on a scale that could clothe the entire planet a hundred times over and then burns what’s left rather than giving back to those who need it – it’s easy to see why people see fashion as a fickle, soulless world.

Yet, perhaps the most soulless aspect of the fashion food chain is the way it treats those at the bottom.

The working conditions of the garment workers from Southeast Asia are a far cry from les petites mains of Parisian ateliers, despite the number of luxury brands that have decided to relocate their manufacturing bases to places like China, Vietnam and Bangladesh. In 2018, workers’ rights watchdog KnowTheChain awarded luxury clothing conglomerate LVMH, which controls brands like Dior, Fendi and Givenchy, a ranking of just 14/100 for their treatment of garment workers. This reflects LVMH’s resistance to transparency in their supply chains and their alleged use of forced labour in their garment factories.

According to KnowTheChain, workers in these positions are often lured into roles under false pretences. Promises of a liveable wage, free accommodation and a chance to provide for their family turn out to be a low-wage role, working seventeen-hour days in unregulated factories which are hotbeds for exploitation. In Bangalore for instance, 80% of garment workers are women, often from rural areas, who may be unaware of their rights and discriminated against due to India’s caste system.

Women in these lines of employment are more likely to be subject to sexual harassment and abuse and be unable to raise allegations of this abuse due to fears of repercussion, societal pressure and financial instability.

KnowTheChain has reported a disturbing lack of regulation in these areas, coupled with the use of recruitment agencies has allowed for disturbing professional practices to be considered the norm. For instance, recruitment fees, where workers are expected to pay third-party agencies upwards of $7000 to secure their position, leaving them indebted to their employers in a form of modern-day indentured servitude. This system not only prevents the upward mobility of millions of workers, it allows companies like LVMH to avoid accountability and criticism whilst reaping the benefits of cheap, outsourced labour

However, it is not only the people of the Global South being made to bear the cross of fashion’s elite. Those making the decision to produce clothing on a hyper-industrial scale are being allowed to export its consequences by forcing Southeast Asian and African countries to house the sites of production and act as dumping ground for textile waste despite these countries often lacking the infrastructure to execute this safely.

In Kenya for example, the once prosperous Gikomba textile market has become the final destination of 185,000 tonnes of second-hand clothes in 2019; 30-40% of which had no market value, meaning that 55,500–74,000 tonnes was actually textile waste - according to Greenpeace. In Bangladesh, dye pollution from the abundance of garment factories has polluted rivers with a cocktail of carcinogenic chemicals, depleting local fish populations and rendering the water undrinkable.

These are yet more examples of the Global North turning their back on the ugly realities of its industries and absolving itself of any attachment to the fates of millions who help to sustain them.With every purchase, we weave ourselves inexorably into the fabric of oppression - while holding it far away enough that we fail to see the tears .

By Adam Noor

“It is commercially viable and ethically imperative to seek to eliminate modern slavery in supply chains.”

- KnowTheChain

THE ETHICS OF SECONDHAND

By Antony Tom

Designed by Lydia Hickson

The f ashion industry has seen its growth in its frontier with new technological advancements and new sustainable ideas. However, it has its own drawbacks as well. The wastes produced by the industry are increasing with each passing year and have also resulted with increase in the environmental pollution as well. According to Earth.org, “of the 100 billion garments produced each year, 92 million tonnes end up in landfills”. With the pattern followed by the industry, the increase in garments has grown in the past few years and if this continues, it will result in the increase of the garments going into the landfills and may reach further unmanageable levels.

The consumers have also become conscious of the impact on the environment. Shopping secondhand for vintage clothing has resulted in the decrease in the amount of clothes that go into landfills. Therefore, buying pre-owned clothes can be a more ethical method used to combat environmental pollution within the fashion sector.The increasing price of commodities has also affected the way in which consumers are thinking, leading to the increase in sales of second-hand and vintage clothes.

Buying second-hand clothes is becoming more popular with each passing day. The availability of resale platforms has increased the popularity and extended the life of unused clothes in the past few years.The use of resale platforms, such as Vinted and Depop, for the recycling of clothing are being adopted by many. Even companies have started resale platforms which are concentrating on the sales of used clothes, which helps cater to the rising demands of vintage and second-hand clothing to the consumers. Zalando launched a ‘preloved’ platform in September 2020 where consumers can buy and sell used clothing items. By shopping second-hand for vintage clothing, we can reduce the amount of clothes that go into landfills.

Vintage clothing is now very popular among millennials.The style has marked its place on social media with many posting videos and photos on TikTok and Instagram of their new found vintage outfits. Many designers such as punk-revivalist Charles Jeffrey to James Theseus Buck and Luke Brooks of Rottingdean Bazaar are looking to the past for gaining inspiration for their ideas and these ideas have been taken very well by the fashion society as well. However, people still look for authentic secondhand clothes, which can be secured cheaper and may often be more comfortable to wear as well.

However, certain conditions are to be met if consumers need to buy these products. Consumers look at the price and the quality of every product they purchase. Convenience is also essential when customers are looking to buy vintage clothes, in order to influence them that shopping second-hand can be just as easy as shopping high-street. This is essential

for the customer, as well as the knowledge that they are shopping sustainably and ethically. Using second-hand and vintage clothing has had an increase in their demand in the market, this is quite evident in the amount of e-commerce sites that have built themselves on second-hand and vintage resales, including spaces like Depop. Even in luxury fashion, do we see a surge in second-hand reselling in which sites such as,Vestiaire Collective caters specifically to second-hand luxury goods or on Farfetch, a luxury retail platform, also having built a pre-owned section for selling second-hand designer items.We hope it will be one of the most effective ways to bring sustainability into all areas of the fashion world .

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