SUSTAINABLE MATERNITY: Bump, Baby, and You

by Manasi T Prabhoo

According to Grand New Research, the worldwide maternity wear market was worth USD 18.3 billion in 2018 and is expected to grow at a 4.3% CAGR from 2019 to 2025. The increased attention on pregnancy fashion and the growing number of working, pregnant women in developing and emerging countries are driving market expansion. Maternity fashion can be wasteful due to women only requiring these clothes mainly through the course of their pregnancy, resulting in them being discarded soon after. Many of these clothes end up in landfills, where they will slowly disintegrate over time. The demand for low-cost apparel has only worsened these issues. We interiwed a fashion student from Manchester Metropolitan University who worked on creating some sustainable maternity jackets.

Kshiteeja Gandre, 23, an MA Fashion Design Technology student, is currently pursuing her postgraduate degree at Manchester Metropolitan University’s Institute of Fashion. In this interview, she discusses and showcases sketches of her project with us, titled, ‘Bump, Baby and You’, explaining to us the process of designing her sustainable maternity pieces.

What was your aim when you first started this project?

I want to create clothes for females who do not want to invest in multiple garments at different stages of pregnancy and even after birth. During my research it came to my notice that women in America spend about $500 and more on maternity clothes, which is a huge investment. I want to make garments that benefit post-pregnancy and are long term.

What are the pieces that you have come up with?

Versatility is the key to motherhood, and I’ll be making stylish outerwear that can be worn during pregnancy into motherhood and beyond. My pieces include multi-purpose jackets that are waterproof and can be adjusted according to the bump size during pregnancy. It comes with a detachable pregnancy bump panel and detachable baby wearing panel that can be worn in the front as well as the back.They also feature flap pockets, zipper pockets, and detachable pockets with magnetic closure for easy use.

What was your first step into your research?

First and foremost, I had to trace down the history of maternity wear. It shocked me to know that during the Victorian Era, 19th century, clothes were made for women so they could hide their pregnancy. It is understood that pregnancy was a private affair that was not meant to be included in ‘polite conversations.’ In the early 20th century when the first wave of feminism gained momentum and the working class of women increased, special maternity wear was designed and introduced into the market by American designers. Wrap-around skirts and draw-string shirts were one of the first pieces of maternity wear design. As society and the years progressed ahead, new styles were introduced.

How do your jackets solve the garment waste problem?

The most important thing is that my jackets are unisex. For women during pregnancy, bump panels are attached to cater to the growing bump and after the baby is born, men can wear the jacket with the detachable baby wearing panel that serves as baby carriers. The jackets can be worn casually as well without the panels. These jackets also come with detachable hoods. So, one jacket can be worn in many ways by both the mother and the father. It meets their demands and is cost-effective as well. In the era of fast fashion, where only 1% of clothes are recycled, a jacket like this would greatly contribute towards creating less textile waste.

Could you tell us about the fabrics you used for designing the jackets?

I am committed to minimizing my environmental impact, and that's why I have used end-of-roll waste fabric from luxury brands. By repurposing these leftover materials, I am reducing textile waste and creating something beautiful and functional.The outer and the main fabric will be cotton from Loro Piana which is waterproof and windproof. Even though Loro Piana is a luxury brand, I want to source the fabrics second hand which will not only be cheaper but also recycled. For the inner lining fabric, soft shell fleece will be used. This fabric is often a woven blend of polyester and nylon for resilience and comfort. Most outdoor clothes and gears are made of this fabric which are extremely breathable, comfortable to the skin, and can be used for many years.

Are there any other additional features in the jackets?

Yes. For the comfort of the mother, father, and the baby, I have tried to add certain minimal functional things. To support the changes in the body during pregnancy, adjustable toggles are up in the front. Loops are added to support a lightweight toy for the baby or to hand detachable pockets. The pockets come with magnetic snaps that are added for easy wearing as velcro will be harsh for the baby. The zip lining also comes with a flap so that it won’t interfere with the baby’s movements. The baby wearing panel also has adjustable toggles to accommodate a growing baby. The pregnancy bump panel comes with adjustable drawstrings which can be altered according to the need. The jacket also houses a detachable hood.

Lastly, how do you think that we could all contribute to championing sustainable fashion?

The primary step would be to stop buying from fast fashion outlets. As tempting as the styles may look and lighter, they feel on the wallet, JUST STOP buying from them. Instead make a one-time purchase that would last you many years. Opt for charity shops and second-hand apps like Vinted, Ebay, Depop etc. Clothing rentals are also becoming a thing nowadays. Try renting clothes for important events instead of buying new ones which will only be worn once or twice.Try to recycle your clothes by making them into bags, rags, carpets, pullover blankets etc. Many high street brands such as H&M, have recycling stations in their shops where points are added for recycling. These may look like little things, but collectively they make a lot of difference to the environment .

Kshiteeja’s jacket strives to give parents a sense of empowerment and convenience. “I understand the difficulties that come with pregnancy and parenthood, and I wanted to create something that can meet their needs while also keeping them fashionable and comfortable. I’m providing a practical and effective option for parents with my multi-purpose jacket. I intend to assist families in saving money and minimize waste by offering a low purchase and sustainable option.” Sustainable fashion is a positive trend that is assisting in the reduction of the fashion industry’s environmental waste. We can all help to create a more sustainable future for fashion by choosing fabrics that are natural and not chemically made, reusing and recycling clothes, purchasing secondhand and vintage items, and supporting sustainable brands.

KSHITEEJA’S SKETCHES