Katara Hospitality stands at the intersection of heritage and innovation, rejuvenating iconic landmarks while inspiring the future of hospitality.
With a deep appreciation for style, art, and culture, we offer world-class experiences that honor tradition while embracing the promise of tomorrow.
Our properties are more than just destinations. They are vibrant showcases of elegance, artistry, and cultural significance. Welcoming guests from around the world, we create immersive experiences that blend refined luxury with a forward-thinking vision.
At Katara Hospitality, we celebrate the timeless connection between heritage, style, and the dynamic future of travel.
CHANGING THE WORLD OF HOSPITALITY.
Katara Hospitality stands at the intersection of heritage and innovation, rejuvenating iconic landmarks while inspiring the future of hospitality. With a deep appreciation for style, art, and culture, we offer world-class experiences that honor tradition while embracing the promise of tomorrow.
Our properties are more than just destinations.They are vibrant showcases of elegance, artistry, and cultural significance. Welcoming guests from around the world, we create immersive experiences that blend refined luxury with a forward-thinking vision. At Katara Hospitality, we celebrate the timeless connection between heritage, style, and the dynamic future of travel.
Welcome to this special issue dedicated to the enchanting world of métiers d’art, where artistry and craftsmanship converge to create exceptional works of luxury. As we delve into the intricacies of this fascinating domain, we celebrate the artisans whose dedication and skill breathe life into each creation, whether it be a breathtaking timepiece, a stunning piece of jewellery, or an intricately crafted garment.
In these pages, we explore how renowned luxury houses like Chanel, Chaumet, and Van Cleef & Arpels not only preserve traditional techniques but also embrace innovation and sustainability. Through interviews with leading artisans, curators, and industry experts, we uncover the stories behind the craftsmanship, revealing the passion that drives these artisans and the impact of technology on their work.
As the luxury market evolves, the importance of preserving artisanal heritage while adapting to contemporary demands has never been more significant. This issue highlights the ongoing dialogue between tradition and modernity, inviting readers to appreciate the timeless value of craftsmanship in a fast-paced world. We invite you to journey with us through this celebration of artisanal excellence and discover the profound beauty and cultural significance of métiers d’art.
CULTURAL NARRATIVES
Drawing on centuries of tradition and know-how, artists from the MENA region have created works that reflect their rich culture and transcend regional boundaries. This extensive collection of artworks by established and emerging talents provides a breathtaking visual map of the region's art world, with a collection of unique works. As it travels around the globe, the show shines the spotlight on the great artistic contributions of the region, while transmitting the exceptional character of each country represented.
10 - 11 Introduction: Les Métiers d’Art
12 - 35 Boghossian | A Symphony of Gems: Exploring the world of Boghossian Jewellery
Building 8, Dubai media city, GF Premises B8-ex33 Dubai Media City, UAE
INTRODUCTION: LES METIERS D’ART
In this illuminating issue, we embark on a journey through the captivating realm of métiers d’art, a celebration of the highest echelons of craftsmanship that embodies the artistry and heritage of luxury.
Here, we explore how iconic brands such as Chanel, Boghossian, and Chaumet elevate their creations beyond mere functionality, infusing each piece with an emotional resonance that tells a story. Our exploration delves into the intricate techniques that define this world.
We highlight the dedication of skilled artisans who masterfully blend tradition with innovation, ensuring that age-old practices thrive in the modern luxury landscape. We gain insight into the creative processes and the collaborative spirit that drives the métiers d’art community forward.
As we navigate through the process: from initial inspiration to detailed drawings and illustrations, culminating in the creation of the final piece and its presentation to the public, and the evolving role of craftsmanship, this issue aims to deepen your appreciation for the artistry behind luxury goods.
BOGHOSSIAN | A SYMPHONY OF GEMS: EXPLORING THE WORLD OF BOGHOSSIAN JEWELLERY
The intricate world of Boghossian, a Geneva-based, family-run high jewellery maison with a legacy spanning over 150 years, reflects a celebration of craftsmanship and creativity. Led by fifth- and sixthgeneration gem experts, CEO Albert Boghossian and his nephews Roberto and Ralph, the maison draws inspiration from its storied beginnings at the heart of the Silk Route—a meeting point of Eastern opulence and Western ingenuity.
Boghossian is synonymous with pushing the boundaries of haute joaillerie, where extraordinary gemstones meet unparalleled innovation. From its signature Kissing technique and the Art of Inlay to the patented Merveilles style, every creation reflects a masterful blend of heritage, daring artistry, and technical precision. The maison’s ability to showcase diamonds and gemstones in audacious, unexpected ways has redefined the very essence of jewellery design.
Boghossian’s journey is one that bridges East and West, exploring beauty and enchantment in their most captivating forms. Along this path, a collection of magnificent buildings, known as Palaces, sparkle like precious gems in a glittering chain. Each palace, much like a jewel, encapsulates the essence of fantasy and beauty, reflecting the unique spirit of its era and place. Palaces are repositories of culture, showcasing the finest works of art and craftsmanship, where creativity is nurtured and allowed to flourish in ways seldom seen elsewhere.
Boghossian’s Palace Voyages collection charts a remarkable journey through time and geography, beginning at Beijing’s Qianlong Palace and concluding at Brighton Pavilion. Fourteen distinct palaces serve as the inspiration for a series of extraordinary pieces, each one capturing the architectural and historical essence of its respective location, as well as the story and atmosphere that define it.
This collection celebrates the union of past and present, where history’s grandeur meets modern elegance.
(This Page) The Palace of Tranquil Longevity, Qianlong.
The Qianlong Palace, also known as the “Palace of Tranquil Longevity,” was built in 1771 as a retirement retreat for Emperor Qianlong. Although he never fully retired and never spent a night there, the palace remains a wellpreserved example of 18th-century design, blending traditional Chinese craftsmanship with Western influences. Notably, the marquetry work, especially in the Juanqinzhai (Retirement Lodge), is considered among the finest in the world. This intricate design inspired pieces featuring diamonds, white jade, and green jadeite, reflecting the
Qianlong Emperor’s appreciation for classical form, asymmetry, and the use of empty space in Chinese art.
The Tranquil Magnolia necklace’s jadeite links echo the geometric patterns in the bamboo marquetry, while the motherof-pearl flower represents a traditional Chinese motif. The Bamboo Blossom cuff mirrors the palace’s contrast of dark wood and silk panels, with diamonds forming intricate flowers set within geometric jadeite frames, creating a refined balance of Eastern and Western influences.
TAMAN SARI
Taman Sari, the “Garden of Flowers,” was built in the late 18th century as a retreat for the Yogyakarta Sultans. The complex, centred around sacred bathing pools, featured hidden underwater tunnels for private access. Despite many elements being destroyed, Taman Sari remains an enduring symbol of peace and tranquillity.
The Flowing Droplets set captures the essence of the sacred pools, using Paraiba tourmalines and diamonds to reflect the pools’ distinctive colour. The jewels’ cabochon and pear shapes, interspersed with marquise diamonds, mimic the fluid motion of water droplets, enhanced by a mesh setting that allows the gems to shift gently with movement.
Inspired by the lotus motifs of the fountains, the Floral Cascade ensemble features baguette diamonds and emeralds to evoke the movement of water, with heart-shaped emeralds forming a flower at the centre. The flowing design creates a shimmering effect, reminiscent of the ethereal beauty and fragrance of Taman Sari’s ancient palace garden.
The Bahia Palace in Marrakesh, commissioned in the late 19th century, showcases the finest Moroccan craftsmanship, particularly through its intricate muqarnas—painted cedarwood ceilings. The detailed geometry and rich colour palette of these ceilings serve as the inspiration for the Rainbow Riad collection, which echoes their ornate design.
The Wheel of Colour pendant is a stunning tribute to the complexity of the palace’s ceilings, with a unique cream mother-of-pearl base inlaid with a vivid
array of pink and purple sapphires, tsavorites, demantoid garnets, lapis lazuli, turquoise, Paraiba tourmalines, and yellow and white diamonds, making it equally striking from every angle.
The Mosaic Haven set draws from the fretwork of the palace’s courtyards. Featuring a rich rubellite centrepiece, the bracelet and earrings combine contrasting colours, such as green jadeite, pink opal, and turquoise, layered with purple sapphires, yellow diamonds, and spessartite garnets, creating a beautiful latticework effect.
The Petit Trianon, designed by architect Ange-Jacques Gabriel, was a neoclassical gem meant to house the retinue of Louis XV and later gifted by Louis XVI to Marie-Antoinette. The simple design and tranquil surroundings provided the queen with a retreat from the grandeur of Versailles.
The Belvedere Beauty necklace, inspired by the Petit Trianon’s frescoes and garden pavilions, reflects the delicate nature of the palace’s aesthetic.
A ribbon of baguette-cut diamonds mimics the graceful motion of a bow, while a flower basket adorned with multicoloured diamonds replicates a detail from the garden pavilion where Marie-Antoinette rehearsed her music. The innovative Kissing technique inlays diamonds into mother-of-pearl, creating a layered effect.
The Classical Essence set captures the femininity of the queen’s apartments. The intricate lattice design of diamonds evokes the palace’s proportions, while natural pearl drops add a touch of elegance and movement, echoing the sense of informal luxury the queen desired.
Jaipur’s City Palace, built in the early 18th century for Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, is a grand symbol of the city’s royal heritage.
The Verdant Waves collection draws inspiration from the Ganesh Gate, representing spring. The jewels reflect the architectural grandeur of the gate, which symbolises the passage between East and West. Yellow diamonds and green tourmalines are set in curves that mirror the gate’s structure, with domed profiles adding texture and drama.
The Winter Roses ensemble takes inspiration from the Rose Gate, honouring the Goddess Devi and winter. Carved rubellite flowers sit atop translucent sea-green prasiolites, using the Kissing technique. Shimmering yellow diamond pendants complete the design, blending classical Indian style with modern craftsmanship.
In the late 18th century, the Prince of Wales, later George IV, visited Brighton for health reasons, having been advised to bathe in the sea. The Royal Pavilion, initially a modest house, was expanded by architect John Nash in the early 19th century, with the iconic Indo-Saracenic domes added in 1823. The ornate interior design matched the building’s exotic architecture. Queen Victoria, however, disliked its location and sold it to the city of Brighton in 1850. Today, where it remains a famous landmark known for its spectacular design.
The Flickering Chandelier set is inspired by the Pavilion’s opulent banqueting room, where velvet drapes and shimmering light fixtures create a dynamic interplay of light and shadow. The diamond baguettes on the necklace and earrings capture this movement, while sapphires in varying blue tones reflect the shifting light.
The Gleaming Foliage ensemble echoes the chandelier’s leaf motifs, with diamond drops and delicate fringes that move gracefully with the wearer.
Mysore, often called the “City of Palaces,” is renowned for its most majestic residence, the Amba Vilas Palace, commissioned in the late 19th century by Maharaja Krishnaraja Wodeyar IV. Designed by British architect Henry Irwin, this palace is a testament to architectural grandeur, with its ceremonial Durbar Hall added in the 1930s. The hall’s soaring arches and elegant pillars inspired the design of the jewellery pieces in the collection, capturing the essence of this iconic space.
The Durbar Blue collection draws directly from the hall’s architectural elements, with pieces that mirror the sweeping curves and monumental pillars. The tone-on-tone turquoise, blue topaz, and hand-cut diamond baguettes evoke the regal grandeur of the hall’s arches, framing the face in a continuous, infinite pattern. Sculpted lapis lazuli, in particular, reflects the imposing pillars that dominate the hall’s structure.
The Amba Arches ensemble channels the architectural beauty of the palace’s columns, with aquamarines, yellow diamonds, turquoise, chrysoprase, and red spinel mirroring their intricate colours and shapes. Influenced by the traditional craftsmanship of antique Indian jewellery, the pieces pay homage to the palace’s opulence, with the ring echoing the ancient use of counterweights, highlighting the fusion of history and art in the collection.
Persepolis, the legendary palace complex nestled in the Zagros Mountains of modern-day Iran, was built in the 6th century BC as both a ceremonial and residential site. Known for its grand scale and strategic location, the palace remains a symbol of ancient splendour, with its imposing raised platforms and staircases still visible today. The use of glazed bricks in blue and yellow to depict sacred scenes and creatures ties the palace to the rich visual legacy of Mesopotamian culture, where these pigments were symbols of wealth and power.
The Babylon Gate necklace draws from the bold geometry and symmetry of Persepolis’s architecture, offering a contemporary interpretation of its visual language. The carved lapis lazuli, turquoise, and coral reflect the striking blue and orange hues seen in the palace’s frescoes and gates, incorporating ancient materials and techniques of hard stone inlay that were central to the craftsmanship of the era. Triangular and marquise diamonds add a touch of grandeur, further enhancing the necklace’s regal presence.
The Lapis Lotus ensemble is inspired by the lotus flower, frequently depicted in the reliefs of Persepolis. In Mesopotamian mythology, the lotus symbolises rebirth and eternity. The pieces in this collection feature a stylised version of the flower, crafted in marquise diamonds, turquoise, lapis lazuli, and spessartite garnet, capturing the essence of Persepolis’s timeless beauty and symbolism.
Moustapha Akrim
Attajamhur, 2022. 290 x 83 x 6 cm
DAF Beirut
GOLESTAN
The Golestan Palace, located in the heart of Tehran, was begun in the 16th century and remains one of the finest examples of traditional Qajar architecture. Known as the “Palace of the Rose Garden,” it reflects the elegance and cultural richness of the era. As Tehran became the new capital, the palace was expanded with significant additions in the late 19th century, including the celebrated Hall of Mirrors, a masterpiece that took
four years to complete, and the equally ornate Hall of Diamonds.
The Mirror Maze set draws direct inspiration from the palace’s architectural splendour. By employing intricate carving techniques and bright gemstones—rubies, emeralds, turquoise, pink and blue sapphires, and diamonds—the pieces mimic the palace’s ornate design and its colourful stained-glass panels. The centre of the
design features three yellow diamonds, arranged symmetrically to echo the exceptional optical effects found in the hall’s reflective surfaces, offering a literal interpretation of the palace’s beauty.
The White Hall pieces reflect the craftsmanship of the palace’s own details. Carved rock crystal, a technique akin to the intricate glasswork within the palace, captures the essence of the structure’s transparency and light play. By combining different cuts of rock crystal, diamonds, and mother-ofpearl, the collection mimics the lightreflecting interplay seen in the intricate strapwork adorning the ceilings of Golestan Palace.
The great city of Amarna, built under the reign of Pharaoh Akhenaton in the 14th century BC, represents a dramatic shift in Ancient Egyptian art. Particularly evident in the North Palace, constructed for his queen Nefertiti, this era embraced a more informal and liberated style, breaking away from the rigid conventions of the past. One notable example is the “Green Room” of the palace, where fragments of paintings depict an abstract, geometric interpretation of the traditional papyrus motif, signalling a new era of creative freedom in Egyptian art.
The Queen’s Papyrus set draws inspiration from this stylistic evolution, capturing the distinctive shape of the papyrus frond through jadeite, emerald, and diamond. The green hues of the stones not only reference the “Green Room” of the Amarna palace but also connect to the long history of emeralds in ancient Egyptian jewellery, used as far back as 1500 BC. The combination of sparkling emerald and matte jadeite creates an unexpected contrast, mirroring the innovative spirit of the Amarna period. The sharp cuts of the papyrus heads juxtaposed with the rounded forms at the base reflect this artistic freedom and boldness.
The Nile Flowers ensemble, with its meticulously cut blue sapphires and diamonds, evokes an abstract papyrus shape, continuing the theme of creative audacity seen in the frescoes of Amarna. This set embodies the period’s departure from tradition and embraces a new, stylised vision of beauty.
The Alhambra palace, perched on the Sabika Hill above Granada, is one of the most celebrated examples of Islamic art and architecture, a testament to the Arab presence in Europe from the 8th to the 15th centuries. Built in the 13th century, it stands as a symbol of enduring beauty
and cultural significance, surviving the Reconquista to remain a worldrenowned monument. Its intricate décor, particularly the muqarnas— architectural elements that represent the seven levels of heaven—embodies the spiritual and artistic richness of the period.
The Seven Realms necklace draws direct inspiration from the stunning craftsmanship of the Alhambra, with Boghossian’s ateliers developing a unique technique to create the settings for the white and yellow diamonds. These diamonds, in varying shapes, float delicately on the necklace, mounted with a single claw in a conceptual interpretation of the geometric patterns found in the Hall of the Ambassadors. The design echoes the intricate wooden ceiling, which is said to represent the seven heavens a soul must pass through before reaching paradise, mirroring the celestial journey depicted in the palace’s architecture.
The Midnight Blue set offers a more conceptual take on the Alhambra’s grandeur, using the deep blue of tanzanite to evoke the sombre skies behind the palace, as seen from the Albaicin Hill. The carved pink opal at the centre of the necklace suggests the ethereal muqarnas floating against the nocturnal backdrop, capturing the mystique of the Alhambra as it dissolves into the night.
CHANEL COLLECTION: HAUTE JOAILLERIE SPORT
Body awareness and freedom of movement have always been central to Gabrielle Chanel’s designs. Her aesthetic, defined by sporty elegance, was evident from the very beginning, with the establishment of a “Sport” atelier in 1921 within her Haute Couture house.
In 2024, Chanel unveiled the “Haute Joaillerie Sport” collection, created by Patrice Leguéreau, Director of the Chanel Jewelry Creation Studio.
This collection blends elegance with performance, through exceptional gemstones, artistry, and technique. For the first time, it celebrates Chanel’s sporty style in the realm of fine jewellery, capturing the essence of movement and enhancing the allure of women with this dynamic, elegant momentum.
FOR CREATING THE ‘SPORT’ HIGH JEWELRY COLLECTION, I WAS INSPIRED BY CHANEL’S SPORTY STYLE, WHICH IS SUCH AN INTEGRAL PART OF THE HOUSE’S HISTORY: THE ELEGANCE OF THE LINE AND THE FREEDOM OF MOVEMENT.
PATRICE
LEGUÉREAU,
DIRECTOR OF THE CHANEL JEWELRY CREATION STUDIO.
THE AESTHETIC
The line is refined and streamlined to create jewellery that moves more closely to the anatomical reality of the body, in the same way sportswear does. The chevron motif evokes rhythm and speed, the volumes are tapered, and the contours are clean and smooth. Lines of colour infuse the look with a dynamic energy. The motifs and graphic design revisit Gabrielle Chanel’s symbols in a sporty version – the number 5 in a «Chronometer» typography, the lion set in a coat of arms, the star as a symbol of victory – while the CHANEL signature is introduced for the first time into Haute Joaillerie creations in the shape of an openwork imprint. With their transformability and modular conception, the pieces form an ensemble that is light to wear and celebrates freedom of movement.
TThe “Haute Joaillerie Sport” collection offers the most beautiful ensemble of gemstones ever presented by CHANEL, displaying the colours of the precious stones in all their vivid, luminous intensity.
A set of five Kashmir sapphires, the fruit of several years’ research work, is a tour de force in itself. Twotone and three-tone contrasts enhance the coloured stones, while their shapes subtly highlight the collection’s ergonomic aesthetic.
A TECHNICAL SAVOIR-FAIRE
In adopting a functional approach to jewellery, technical savoir-faire also creates its own signature aesthetic. Connection systems create graphic flat surfaces, while quick-release fittings borrowed from sports equipment become genuine clasps, no longer concealed but placed at the centre of the piece: a karabiner redesigned in the shape of the number 5, a swivel clasp borrowed from the iconic 2.55 bag, and sets of buckles and loops.
The Chanel quilted motif, revisited in the style of openwork high-performance fabrics, becomes a supple mesh embellished with sport motifs. A tube chain called a “sport cord” has been specially developed by CHANEL. A signature feature of the collection is its combination of precious and hightech materials: aluminium, exceptionally light and resistant, takes on unprecedented new colours; carbon fibre, marrying low density with high resistance, creates an ultra-lightweight sport cuff; lacquer expands the colour palette with shades matched perfectly to the hues of the precious stones.
The Chaumet & Nature exhibition, presented at M7 in Doha, is a breathtaking exploration of the relationship between art, nature, and high jewellery. Hosted in collaboration with Qatar Museums, the exhibition celebrates the storied history of the Maison Chaumet, founded in 1780, and its enduring fascination with the natural world as a source of creative inspiration. Through carefully curated displays, visitors are invited on a journey that reveals how the beauty of flora, fauna, and natural landscapes has influenced the design of Chaumet’s exceptional jewellery pieces for over two centuries.
Chaumet, one of the most revered Parisian jewellery houses, has long drawn inspiration from nature, viewing it as a source of timeless elegance and vitality. Chaumet & Nature celebrates this profound connection through an array of masterful creations, offering visitors a rare opportunity to explore the maison’s craftsmanship and artistry. The exhibition unfolds as a guided journey through thematic rooms, each offering a deeper understanding of how Chaumet interprets nature in its most poetic and delicate forms. From diamond-studded leaves and blossoms to regal tiaras inspired by natural motifs, the collection demonstrates an extraordinary fusion of technical expertise and artistic imagination.
The exhibition features some of Chaumet’s most iconic works, showcasing pieces that represent key stylistic eras and the evolution of jewellery design. Visitors are greeted with a sense of awe as they encounter creations inspired by the beauty of flora — roses, wheat sheaves, and ivy rendered in dazzling diamonds, gold, and coloured gemstones. These motifs symbolise life, growth, and eternity, themes that resonate deeply within the world of fine jewellery. Among the highlights is Chaumet’s mastery of the tiara, a signature emblem of the maison, where nature-inspired elements are elevated to regal, wearable art.
Another remarkable section of the exhibition pays homage to fauna. Birds, dragonflies, bees, and butterflies are captured with astonishing precision, bringing the creatures to life in gem-encrusted form. Chaumet’s ability to infuse natural motifs with a sense of motion and lightness is particularly striking — wings appear to flutter, petals seem ready to fall, and delicate insects rest as if only for a moment. This
unique craftsmanship mirrors the maison’s deep reverence for the natural world, treating it not merely as a subject but as a partner in the creative process.
The exhibition also delves into Chaumet’s innovative techniques and its use of materials, celebrating its ability to push boundaries while remaining true to tradition. Combining precious metals, diamonds, and rare stones with intricate handwork, the maison demonstrates its commitment to preserving craftsmanship while creating pieces that are both timeless and contemporary. The interplay of light, texture, and form seen throughout the exhibition reflects nature’s endless diversity, captured with unparalleled artistry.
Set in the dynamic space of M7, Doha’s hub for creativity and innovation, Chaumet & Nature brings a sense of wonder to audiences. The exhibition not only showcases Chaumet’s legacy but also invites visitors to reflect on the beauty and fragility of the natural world. Through its exquisite jewellery, the maison reminds us that nature, in all its forms, is a profound and enduring muse — a source of inspiration that transcends time and trends.
In this carefully curated experience, Chaumet’s vision of nature comes to life, offering an inspiring narrative that connects art, craftsmanship, and the sublime beauty of the natural world. Chaumet & Nature is not simply an exhibition; it is a celebration of creativity, heritage, and the eternal splendour of nature.
‘FROM THE EARTH TO THE SKY AND SEA, ANIMALS POPULATE THE NATURAL WORLD, CONTRIBUTING TO ITS RICHNESS AND BEAUTY. WHETHER REAL OR FANTASTICAL, DOMESTIC OR WILD, ANIMALS ARE A FAVOURITE JEWELLERY INSPIRATION. IN ITS SYMBOLIC CREATIONS, CHAUMET OFFERS A RICH BESTIARY FEATURING A VARIETY OF FIGURES, FROM BIRDS TO EXOTIC ANIMALS SUCH AS THE GIRAFFE AND THE LION, AS WELL AS INSECTS INCLUDING THE BEE, ORIGINALLY CHOSEN AS A SYMBOL BY NAPOLÉON HIMSELF. AMONG PLANTS AND FLOWERS, IN THE WATER OR IN THE AIR, THEY ARE RENDERED FROM LIFE, TESTIFYING TO THE MAISON’S ESTEEMED ART OF THE LINE.’
Q&A SESSION WITH BERTRAND BONNET BESSE, HERITAGE AMBASSADOR AT CHAUMET
Thank you for joining us, Bertrand. Chaumet’s history and craftsmanship are truly remarkable. Let’s begin with the emerald tiara—it’s such an exquisite piece. What makes it stand out? What’s unique about this emerald tiara is its versatility. When a lady possesses such a stunning emerald, she naturally wants to wear it on multiple occasions. However, a tiara isn’t always suitable for every event. To address this, Chaumet created a design that allows the tiara to be dismantled into seven separate parts. These parts can transform into brooches or even hairpieces, offering multiple ways to enjoy and showcase its beauty.
That adaptability is extraordinary. Beyond its function, the craftsmanship seems equally impressive. Could you tell us about the detailing? Certainly. One of the highlights is the tremble effect—a technique that gives the piece a shimmering, dynamic quality, as though it’s alive with movement. Crafted from enamelled gold, the tiara reflects the mid-19th-century spirit, a period when France and England were competing to create the finest jewellery. This isn’t a purely decorative object—it was always intended to be worn, to move with the wearer, and to celebrate elegance.
I believe you mentioned dragons as part of the design. What role do they play?
Yes! The dragons are beautifully integrated into the piece. If you look closely, you’ll find rubies adorning their backs. These details are subtle yet essential, blending seamlessly into the overall design while adding an exquisite, symbolic touch. It’s a testament to the meticulous artistry that defines Chaumet.
The exhibition also features rare historical works. Could you share one that stands out for you? One exceptional piece is from the Albion Art Jewelry Collection in Japan—a diamond flower motif dating back to 1865. What makes it so special is the use of natural pearls, which retain their original, unaltered colours. Today, finding pearls of this quality is nearly impossible, as some of the species no longer exist. This piece reminds us of nature’s fragility and the importance of preserving such treasures.
It’s fascinating how the materials—emerald leaves for the foreground and enamel for the less visible areas—add layers of meaning. Exactly. The careful contrast between precious and non-precious materials enhances the design, creating depth, texture, and a play of light. It’s a delicate harmony that reflects Chaumet’s artistry.
The exhibition also features some modern collaborations. Could you tell us about the Vertigo tiara?
The Vertigo tiara is particularly special. It was the result of a collaboration with a student from Central Saint Martins in London. This young designer, who had previously worked with non-precious materials, was suddenly given access to extraordinary gemstones. His winning design was brought to life by Chaumet’s artisans and showcased at a major exhibition in Beijing, where half a million visitors admired it. Imagine that—a monumental achievement for an 18-year-old student!
Incredible. Chaumet’s blend of tradition and innovation truly stands out. Could you highlight another modern piece from the exhibition?
One of our favourites is a contemporary tiara inspired
by an early 20th-century design for a Spanish aristocratic family. This piece allows its floral motifs to be detached and worn as brooches, while the tiara itself remains perfectly intact. It’s the ultimate combination of elegance and practicality, which Chaumet is so well known for.
Chaumet’s ability to evolve while honouring its legacy is truly inspiring. Any final thoughts?
Chaumet has always celebrated beauty, movement, and craftsmanship. Whether it’s historic tiaras, intricate brooches, or modern creations, each piece tells a story—rooted in tradition yet adaptable to today’s world. This exhibition is a testament to that legacy, and we hope visitors leave inspired by the artistry on display.
Ballerina Pierina Variation, 2016. Van Cleef & Arpels x Dubai Opera Collaboration.
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS HIGH JEWELLERY THEMATIC COLLECTION:
PEAU D’ANE RACONTE PAR VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
Ever since its beginnings in 1906, Van Cleef & Arpels has embodied the brilliance of Jewelry savoir-faire. Inspired by constant inventiveness, the Maison’s excellence has given birth to timeless creations and exceptional techniques: Mystery Setting™, Zip necklaces, Poetic Complications® watches, the outstanding Pierres de Caractère precious stone collection - all have revolutionised the world of Jewelry.
Founded in February 2012 at the instigation of its President, Marie Vallanet-Delhom, L’ÉCOLE Van Cleef & Arpels is notable for an innovative curriculum, resplendent of the world of Jewelry and Watchmaking. Its goal is to instil an intellectual and emotional understanding of the spirit of these exceptional crafts; to encourage mastery of their techniques through personal experience; to educate the hand, the eye, and the sense of taste. It does so with the help of experts who are passionate about their subjects: art historians, virtuoso craftsmen, experienced jewelers, gemologists, master watchmakers, and historians of time share their knowledge with students from all over the world.
Since opening, L’ÉCOLE Van Cleef & Arpels has welcomed more than 2,200 students of some 30 different nationalities: lovers of beauty, enlightened amateurs, or professionals seeking to broaden their knowledge. Its curriculum has expanded to include 14 courses lasting 4 hours each (in French and English), spread across three themes: History of Art, Savoir-Faire, and the Universe of Gemstones.
The designer
The creations are expressed in two dimensions, first as a sketch then as a painted design in gouache.
The mock-up maker
The mock-up is the first translation of the future jewel into three dimensions. The mock-up maker, working in close partnership with the designer and the workshops, studies the painting in gouache, and then translates it into an object made of pewter and paste stones.
The jeweller
The jeweller studies the design and the mock-up to create the final piece. He shapes the piece out of gold or platinum using different techniques that might require various tools: dies, milling machines, hammers, compasses, callipers, and other come into play.
The stone-setter
The expert sets the stones in the metal. His objective is to hold the stones securely while showcasing the gems at their best. For an effect of utter brilliance, he takes away as much of the metal as possible without weakening the strength of the mounting.
The Mystery Setting
This technique is a feature of jewellery-making, patented by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1933. The stones are cut one by one to be inserted in thin gold rails. Once mounted, they cover the surface of the jewel, creating a magnificent velvet-like lustre.
The stone-cutter
The stone-cutter shapes each stone individually, carefully cutting the facets, smoothing the edges, and polishing the gems. Throughout the process, the stone-cutter considers the unique properties of each gemstone and their varying reactions to the tools.
The polisher
The goal of polishing is to make the metal shine. The jewel undergoes several stages of polishing throughout the process, primarily before the setting, after the setting, and following the final stone mounting.
The sculptor-engraver
The craftsman carves the stones to embellish the most exquisite jewels. Whether turquoise petals, onyx tutus of enchanting ballerinas, luminescent opal moon drops, or spectacular geometric lapis lazuli, each creation comes to life through hours of meticulous work with the burin.
Sotheby’s inaugural auction in Saudi Arabia, “Origins,” on February 8, 2025, in Diriyah, highlights a stunning selection of luxury jewellery. The event features exquisite pieces by Cartier, Harry Winston, Bulgari, and Van Cleef & Arpels, including an Art Deco Sapphire and Diamond Bracelet and a Burmese Sapphire Ring. These timeless pieces showcase unparalleled craftsmanship, blending history and elegance.
What makes this auction in Diriyah a significant event in the region’s cultural and luxury market landscape?
Paul Redmayne (Sotheby’s Senior Vice President for Luxury Private Sales, based in Dubai): “It’s a truly historic moment and marks another step on the Kingdom’s exciting journey. It’s a commitment to, and belief in, not just Saudi Arabia, but the whole region. Let’s not forget that while Saudi Arabia is the home of the auction and everything surrounding it (including nightly panel discussions), this is an international auction, and clients will be flying in from across the region.
The Middle East is probably the number one driver of the luxury industry globally, so it makes perfect sense to host such an event here. Additionally, in the luxury space, we’re seeing the amalgamation of art and luxury. Tiffany & Co’s recently re-opened New York flagship and initiatives such as the Fondation Cartier exemplify this trend of merging art and luxury. Looking more closely at handbags, of which there are some exceptional examples in the sale, it’s worth noting that we now have a full-time handbags specialist in the region, Claire Marie, who is based in Dubai but travels extensively.”
Can you share details about some of the most anticipated lots, including their estimated values and unique features?
Vincent Brasesco (Sotheby’s Head of Sale for Luxury for Origins auction): “One of the most exciting lots is the rare Cartier Crash, a brand and reference that is particularly sought after in the region.
Another incredibly unique piece is Richard Mille’s RM038 Prototype ‘Yohan Blake’ (estimate: $1,000,000–1,500,000), created for the Jamaican sprinter who came second only to Usain Bolt in the 100-metre
race at the historic London Olympic Games in 2012. The watch was specifically designed for Blake to test during his Olympic races, perfectly illustrating the brand’s often-used metaphor for watches as ‘racing machines on the wrist.’
Mille has been producing some of the most sophisticated sports watches of the last two decades, and this particular piece is worth highlighting for its one-of-one status, as well as its remarkable mechanical and physical engineering.”
Could you tell us more about the different jewellery pieces featured in the auction?
CARTIER | SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND BRACELET
Of geometric design, this bracelet is composed of openwork panels featuring four cushion-cut sapphires, set with old European- and single-cut diamonds. Measuring 155 mm in length, it is signed Cartier and dates circa 1927. Accompanied by a signed box.
Estimate: $275,000–325,000
Key Points:
- Classic circa 1927 Art Deco openwork panel style by Cartier, crafted in platinum.
- Features four impressive cushion-cut sapphires weighing a total of approximately 21.00 to 22.00 carats.
- Accompanied by AGL report no. CS 70665 dated 13 November 2015, stating that the largest sapphire is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of heating, and the three remaining sapphires are of Burmese origin, also with no indications of heating.
- Substantial and elegant—the three sapphires on the top of the bracelet are balanced by the one at the back.
SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING
Featuring an emerald-cut sapphire weighing 19.79 carats, flanked by a pair of trapezoid-shaped diamonds and a pair of bullet-cut diamonds; ring size 50.
Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 21042076, dated 28 April 2021, stating that the sapphire is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating.
Estimate: $300,000–400,000
Key Points:
- Significantly sized Burmese sapphire with no indications of heating and fine clarity.
- Well-proportioned emerald cut.
- Nicely framed by trapezoid-shaped diamonds.
HARRY
WINSTON | PAIR OF RUBY, TURQUOISE AND DIAMOND EARCLIPS
Of stylised floral design, set with pear-shaped rubies, marquise-shaped turquoise cabochons, and round and marquiseshaped diamonds; unsigned, numbered 5156; circa 1963. Fitted with posts.
Accompanied by a copy of a Harry Winston Insurance Evaluation dated 28 July 1994.
Estimate: $35,000-55,000
Key Points:
- 1960s earclips by Harry Winston, in a large size and exuberant style that are typical of the period.
- Turquoise, ruby, and diamond create a striking and charming colour combination.
ATTRIBUTED TO HARRY WINSTON | RUBY AND DIAMOND BRACELET
Featuring eight oval-shaped rubies surrounded by round diamonds, mounted on a highly flexible bombé strap set with round rubies and bordered by round diamonds; length 211 mm; unsigned.
Accompanied by AGL report no. 1144348 dated 3 December 2024, stating that the oval-shaped rubies are of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating.
Estimate: $210,000-300,000
Key Points:
- Impressive and highly flexible bracelet.
- Mounted with eight oval-shaped Burmese rubies with no indications of heating, weighing a total of approximately 14.00 to 16.00 carats.
- Flexible bombé strap pavé-set with round rubies weighing a total of approximately 47.00 to 49.00 carats.
- Circa 1972; formerly from the collection of Baroness von Langendorff.
How were the items selected for this auction, and what criteria were used to curate such a diverse collection?
Vincent Brasesco (Sotheby’s Head of Sale for Luxury for Origins auction): “Luxury as a category is really an extension of art, but art through a combination of mediums. These incredible items here celebrate the best of that artistic expression, mechanical engineering, and human achievement – with some items representing all three of those verticals. The common thread in every piece is a singular word –superlative.”
Paul Redmayne: “This region is one that likes colour and likes big and bold – which makes for some gorgeous and strong jewellery.”
How does hosting the auction in Diriyah tie into the vision for Saudi Arabia as a global destination for art, culture, and luxury?
Paul Redmayne: “Over the years, Diriyah has become a popular destination, attracting both locals and visitors as a result of its remarkable backdrop and the vibrancy of the atmosphere and offerings. It is also home to a number of the finest luxury brands in the world of luxury—so is particularly fitting for an auction of this calibre.”
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COLLECTION N°5
THE 55.55 NECKLACE IN WHITE GOLD, DIAMONDS AND A 55.55-CARAT EMERALD-CUT DFL TYPE IIA DIAMOND.
