A weekend in Barcelona
THE ATMOSPHERIC EL BORN Separated from Barri Gòtic by the busy thoroughfare of Via La Laietana, El Born is a district with a very different identity. You’ll no longer find traces of wealth and richness here, but instead, you enter a humble and authentic fisherman’s quarter. In the Middle Ages, the local seamen built this postcard-perfect neighbourhood stone by stone. Therefore, you’ll find more than one wonky wall along its narrow streets. Today, the district is one of the hippest in Barcelona. With concept stores, coffee bars and countless start-ups, there is something to discover behind every corner.
SYMPHONIC ARCHITECTURE
Palau de la Música.
Palau de la Música is a masterpiece by Lluís Domènech i Montaner, the architect of the magnificent Hospital de Sant Pau. It is hidden in the narrow streets of El Born. Unfortunately, that PA L A U D E L A M Ú S I C A makes it almost impossible to point your lens at the building. In its grand concert hall, every square centimetre is colourfully decorated to perfection; its crown piece is a humongous, illumined, stained-glass bubble that almost appears to be dropping from the ceiling, covering the hall in a soft and warm glow. Palau de la Música Catalana, Carrer Palau de la Música 4-6. €20 (discounts available). Guided tours every 30 minutes from 10am to 3.30pm.
THE COMMON-MAN’S BASILICA Built between 1329 and 1383, the basilica of Santa Maria del Mar is a perfect example of Catalan Gothic without any influences from other styles. The legend goes that this church, S A N TA M A R I A D E L M A R dedicated to Saint Mary of the Sea, was built by the seamen from the district themselves, and that no construction worker collaborated on it. In 2018, the story of its construction was turned into an eight-part series called Cathedral of the Sea (available on Netflix). Although the church is packed in between houses, its interior is very spacious. Plaça de Santa Maria 1. Free admission. Open daily from 9am to 1pm and 5pm to 8.30pm, Sundays, from 10am to 2pm and 5pm to 8pm.
Strolling through El Born
Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar.
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Telling you where to go in El Born is hard, as almost every street is undoubtedly stroll-worthy. Yet, we advise you to cross Via Laietana near Carrer de Sant Pere Més Alt and follow it to Plaça de Sant Pere. From here, continue through Carrer de les Basses de Sant Pere, Plaça de Sant Agustí Vell and Carrer dels Carders until you reach Carrer de Montcada, which leads to Passeig del Born, one of the most adorable squares in town. Don’t end your stroll here, though. Enter any of the streets and you will discover many more beautiful spots.