Discover Southern Europe, Issue 1, Summer 2018

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Cheese, Wine and Jamón

I S S U E 1 | S U M M E R 2 018

A Taste of Southern Europe

Buy Your Dream Holiday Home in Portugal or Spain




F R A N C E ,   S PA I N ,   I TA LY   &   P O R T U G A L

LOCAL CONNECTIONS GLOBAL EXPERTISE As experts of the high-end real estate market, we provide the highest standard of service for qualitative transactions. Offering a wide range of exclusive properties, we commit ourselves entirely to our customers’ satisfaction. Our global marketing strategy combines the know-how of our team with the powerful worldwide network of Sotheby’s International Realty.

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Discover Southern Europe  |  Contents


S UM M ER 20 1 8



of the Extremadura region in western Spain, we take you on a tasty journey to help you plan your next visit.


14 Maurizio Pellizzoni: Modern, Timeless and Elegant Combining timeless classics with modern eclecticism, Maurizio Pellizzoni grew up in a family in the furniture design industry and has become a household name on the luxury interior design scene. Discover Southern Europe spoke to the Italian designer about growing up steeped in design, working at Ralph Lauren, and creating an iconic design for Bang & Olufsen.



22 A Taste of Southern Europe Mouth-watering cheeses, rich and fruity wines and ham made with heritage and passion - what more could you want on your culinary journey through southern Europe? From the charming streets of Lisbon to the rolling vineyards of southern France and the rich culinary heritage

BUSINESS 38 Buy Your Dream Holiday Home The property market is booming in southern Europe – but where do you even begin when considering investing in a permanent or holiday home in this region? We spoke to the experts to share some top tips about the legalities, the trends and the new hot-spots in Portugal and Spain.


Fashion Finds


We Love This


Hotel of the Month


Attraction of the Month


Culture Calendar Issue 1  |  Summer 2018  |  3

Discover Southern Europe  |  Editor’s note

Dear Reader,

Discover Southern Europe Issue 1, Summer 2018 Published 07.2018 ISSN 2054-7218 Published by Scan Group Print Liquid Graphic Ltd Executive Editor Thomas Winther Creative Director Mads E. Petersen Editor Linnea Dunne Copy-editor Karl Batterbee Graphic Designer Mercedes Moulia

Contributors Ingrid Opstad Sanne Wass Signe Hansen Bettina Guirkinger Ute Mueller Ben Woods Lidija Liegis Martin Pilkington Peter Stewart Cover Photo Publisher: Scan Group 15B Bell Yard Mews Bermondsey Street London SE1 3YT United Kingdom Phone: +44 (0)870 933 0423 Fax: +44 (0)870 933 0421  Email:

We are a media you can trust. The print circulation of   Discover Benelux is audited by the Audit Bureau of Circulation (ABC), which is the UK body for media measurement.

© All rights reserved. Material contained in this publication may not be reproduced, in whole or in part, without prior permission of Scan Group – a trading name of Scan Magazine Ltd. This magazine contains advertorials/promotional articles.

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What a privilege it is to write the first ever editor’s note for Discover Southern Europe, this new magazine that is seeing the light of day as we speak; and what a privilege it has been to help birth it and watch it take shape! What the future holds is yet to be seen, but I am certain that this first issue is a good indication of the paths we hope to tread: through the vineyards and tapas hotspots, down winding cobbled streets to stunning beaches, through history and back. Start as you mean to go on, I say. In this first issue of Discover Southern Europe, we explore some of the tastiest treats coming out of the Southern Europe region, including mouth-watering cheese and delicious ham, and get some solid advice on what to think about when buying property in Spain or Portugal. I don’t know about you, but I suspect by the time this magazine celebrates its first birthday, at least half our team will have relocated for a sunnier, more wine-enriched life. You are most welcome to join us on our journey of discovery!

Linnea Dunne, Editor

Discover Southern Europe  |  Design  |  Fashion Finds

Fashion Finds This season, it is all about adding pops of colour to your wardrobe: everything from vibrant hues to pastels. What about bright, sunny shades of yellow? Or touches of 80s-inspired teal? There are plenty of colours to choose from, so get inspired by our choices below. TEXT: INGRID OPSTAD  I  PRESS IMAGES

The long-sleeve cotton shirt in white with vertical stripes from Études is a subtle way to add some colour to your outfit. With a French style and retro vibe, this shirt will make you look sophisticated and chic. Team up with a pair of smart trousers and shoes, or add a pair of trainers or loafers for a laid-back setting. Études ‘Vertical’ shirt, €300 Études ‘Revolte’ trousers, €260

Hand-crafted in Portugal by artisans using the highest quality “Mazzuchelli” acetate and Zeiss lenses, the Martim sunglasses add a bit of colour without being too ‘out there’. They are a part of the Family collection, sharing the values of Paulino Spectacle and its three generations. Paulino Spectacles, sunglasses, €290

Opt for a colourful pair of chino trousers instead of the typical black for a trendy expression of style. These feature a cropped carrot fit and a chain detail on the front. With significant versatility, meaning they can be teamed up with a number of different looks, these blue chinos will become a key item in your wardrobe. Zara, carrot fit chinos, €29.95

Add a splash of colour, quite literally, with these cool knit-sock trainers, sporting a multicolour ‘paint drop’ finish. The shoes slip onto the foot easily and have a stretchy body for ultimate comfort – a summer essential. Also available in black. Maison Margiela, paint drop sock trainers, €510 Image courtesy of TrendForTrend.

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Discover Southern Europe  |  Design  |  Fashion Finds

A biker jacket is a great wardrobe staple piece, and this light blue one from Max & Co is great to wear all year long. The resin finish gives the material a soft feel and highlights its natural grain, while the fit is contoured to your body. Max & Co, Nappa biker jacket, approx €329 Image courtesy of TrendForTrend.

Italian fashion designer and model Chiara Ferragni has created a fun and stylish collection, full of colours. The cute, ‘flirting’, printed one-piece bathing suit will make you stand out on the beach. It comes in a selection of different shades: pink, light blue, yellow, red and fluo green, to mention a few. Chiara Ferragni Collection, flirting bathing suit, €125 Image courtesy of TrendForTrend.

This knitted Twiggy dress can be dressed down for a casual occasion or dressed up for a party. The print is a design of multicoloured flowers mixed with a background of wavy lines – a popular trend this season. Bimba Y Lola Knitted ‘Twiggy’ print dress, €165

If you are adding yellow, why not mix different shades of this happy colour as seen here. The model is wearing wide poplin trousers with a high waist together with a pastel-shade basic T-shirt saying ‘BIMBA Y LOLA IS YELLOW’ from the Spanish brand Bimba Y Lola. The bright yellow basket bag is perfect for lazy days on the beach or a stroll in the park. Bimba Y Lola, Wide yellow dart trousers, €135 Bimba Y Lola, Yellow message t-shirt, €45 Bimba Y Lola, Yellow basket beach bag, €35 Bimba Y Lola, Sandals, €115

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Discover Southern Europe  |  Design  |  We Love This

We Love This Now is the time to invest in a few carefully selected luxury pieces for your home. Think classic and quality. Furniture and accessories that will stand out and which you will love forever. Discover a few of our favourite statement pieces below to get you started. TEXT: INGRID OPSTAD  I  PRESS IMAGES

With its allusions to a musical score, the Chandelier 08-2, by French Magic Circus draws on the 1950s for its aesthetic inspiration. With an aerial composition that brings a breath of playful freedom into a space, it becomes like a piece of jewellery for the room. Each lamp is handmade with mouth-blown glass and bespoke metal finishes, crafted in a workshop using traditional techniques and expertise. Magic Circus, Chandelier 08-2, €2,095

The Costura sofa fuses innovative contemporary design with a timeless midcentury aesthetic that is further enhanced by luxurious leather upholstery. Designed by Jon Gasca for STUA, a design furniture manufacturer from Spain, it reflects tradition while having a classic and minimal style. Upholstered in Camel coloured Elmobaltique leather, it is also available with fabric upholstery. STUA ‘Costura’ two seater leather sofa, approx. €6,846

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Discover Southern Europe  |  Design  |  We Love This The Bird chaise is a bold sculptural statement that is destined to bring something extra into your home with its gentle curves and reduced silhouette encouraging a gentle rocking motion. First made in 1990 in galvanised steel by designer Tom Dixon, this rare and unusual piece of furniture is today produced by Italian brand Cappellini and comes in a wide range of colours, in fabric or leather. Cappellini Bird chaise, €5,280

La Chance incarnates a certain ideal of French style, proposing sophisticated, graphic pieces that bring a glamourous edge to contemporary interiors. The Salute tables, designed by Sebastian Herkner, have a simple yet sophisticated design and are available in several finishes. The coffee table is a beautiful centrepiece for any living room, while the side table is very practical for setting down a drink or a book when placed next to an armchair or a sofa. La Chance, ‘Salute’ coffee table, marble noir & plateau en cuivre, €2,510 La Chance, ‘Salute’ side table, white carrara marble / black tray, €1,403

The Kintsugi collection designed by Marcantonio for Italian brand Seletti is inspired by the Japanese technique of repairing ceramics with gold and silver. With an elegant and contemporary look, the different unique pieces are characterised by 24-carat gold veins and will be the talk of your next dinner party. Seletti ‘Kintsugi’ tray, €179 Seletti ‘Kintsugi’ dinner plate, €33 Seletti ‘Kintsugi’ large dinner plate, €54 Seletti ‘Kintsugi’ bowl, €32 Seletti ‘Kintsugi’ mug, €37

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Discover Southern Europe  |  Design Profile  |  Wauquiez Yatchs

For a true experience of the sea, choose Wauquiez Yachts Wauquiez is a name, a brand, and more importantly a tradition in the art of crafting luxurious sailing boats of the highest quality. With 50 years of history and constantly creating new designs and improving their current models, a sailing yacht signed Wauquiez is likely to become your next big investment. TEXT: BETTINA GUIRKINGER  |  PHOTOS: WAUQUIEZ

Founded in 1965 because of Henri Wauquiez’s love for the quality and speed of sailing boats, the shipyard grew rapidly and soon started exporting to the UK, Germany and Scandinavia from its workshop in northern France. This was also the result of a close collaboration with British architects to make the designs both efficient, safe and beautiful. Today, the luxury brand is stronger than ever in the creation of semi-custom models, meant to fit 10  |  Issue 1  |  Summer 2018

everyone’s aim and ambition: from a yacht for up to five yearly leisure trips on the Mediterranean Sea to a ship fit for a fullscale crossing of the Atlantic or a sailing trip in the Caribbean – Wauquiez has it all.

Satisfying your sailing ambitions Some of the models available are all-time classics, such as the Centurion, which gave birth to the Gladiator models 9, 10 and 11. Built for performance and comfort,

this beauty possesses a slender hull, sleek lines, a low, discreet roof and a cockpit and deck designed for manoeuvring and relaxing. With a powerful build, thoroughbred and as steerable as a racing yacht, the result is a perfect mixture of comfort, elegance and strength. Other popular models include the Pilot Saloon, Opium and Optio. The Pilot Saloon stands out by her elegance and innovation, both above and below deck. She offers an aft cockpit and owners’ cabin, as well as a panoramic view from the saloon, which boasts optimal interior lighting and exceptional sea views. The hull is made of sandwich fiberglass/balsa, using the vacuum infusion technique: unidirectional and com-

Discover Southern Europe  |  Design Profile  |  Wauquiez Yatchs

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Discover Southern Europe  |  Design Profile  |  Wauquiez Yatchs

plex quadri-axial and UD glass-fabrics infused with vinylester resin, and impregnated, vertical balsa ensure further lightness and strength. The vinylester resin and gel coat suppress osmosis phenomena. The deck is processed with the same technique, but with PVC foam instead of balsa for further weight reduction above the waterline. The Opium on the other hand is far more suitable for cruising, racing or a voyage. Her speed, safety and comfort make her an ideal option for longer adventures. On top of this, she gives the feeling of a home away from home through her luxurious and spacious interior, which successfully combines waxed teak and composite materials. Finally, the Optio stands out as the first Daysailer created by the brand, and incorporates all the hallmark features. Among other things, she boasts unmistakable sophistication, luxury and craftsmanship. Furthermore, the Optio has been resolutely designed for high performance, given her progressive chine hull and sleek deck; the standard model includes full racing equipment. A joy for the senses!

A work of art While it is extremely important for the craftsmen at Wauquiez to be at the high end of technical and technological developments, this shouldn’t come at the cost of comfort 12  |  Issue 1  |  Summer 2018

Discover Southern Europe  |  Design Profile  |  Wauquiez Yatchs

and elegance. This is why the interiors are treated with the same care and attention to detail as the rest of the boat along the creation line. No concessions are made on the materials purchased and every creation is treated as a work of art. When most Wauquiez debutantes walk onto a boat, the first thing that strikes them is the delicate smell of the bees wax. It is purchased from a nearby abbey with hundreds of years of tradition and used for the wooden elements of the space. This is only one of the many details that are given special care and love.

Ultimately, what will always make the luxury brand stand out is its winning combination of high-tech and tradition, with the aim to keep surprising new and old customers and stay relevant in the elite world of yacht craftsmanship. Never out-dated, never out of fashion, you are invited to join the Wauquiez experience and find out more online (available in French and English).

The interior just shows how much pride a Wauquiez craftsman takes in a job well done. Bulkheads and cabinetwork are fitted and varnished with the most precise attention, making the work as pleasing to the eye as to the touch... Everything is done in the most classic and traditional way of sailing construction, with all pieces assembled manually, for greater precision and aesthetics.

A winning combination Nominated for the prize of the European Yacht of the Year in the luxury category and close to what could be called ‘the Oscars of watersports’, Wauquiez is in tough competition with the crême de la crême of boat makers, which says a lot about the standard it has already achieved. Issue 1  |  Summer 2018  |  13

Discover Southern Europe  |  Cover Feature  |  Maurizio Pellizzoni


Modern, timeless and elegant Renowned interior designer Maurizio Pellizzoni has design in his DNA, which comes as no surprise since he grew up in Italy near Lake Como in a family who work in the furniture design business. Since founding his company in 2007, he has applied his Italian appreciation of style and design to a range of residential and commercial projects with unique and characterful results. Discover Southern Europe invites you to discover more about the man behind some of the most luxurious properties in the UK and abroad. TEXT: INGRID OPSTAD  |  PHOTOS: MAURIZIO PELLIZZONI

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Discover Southern Europe  |  Cover Feature  |  Maurizio Pellizzoni

Photo: AC Cooper

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Discover Southern Europe  |  Cover Feature  |  Maurizio Pellizzoni

Left: Surrey Hills Country Mansion. Photo: Jake Fitzjones Photography. Right: Ascot Lodge. Photo: Jake Fitzjones Photography

At the heart of Pellizzoni’s designs is the desire to provide something unique and entirely loved by the client. From his base in London, Pellizzoni and his team designs luxurious residential and commercial home interiors, furniture, products and experiences. Over the years, he has created interiors for everything from traditional family homes to trendy city lofts. The end result is consistently a product of the client’s needs, but the designer’s own aesthetic, which emphasises contemporary elegance, is always the determination behind each project.

After three years of experience, he decided to go back to study and completed a Bachelor of Arts in interior architecture at London Metropolitan University. “I spent more than a decade as part of the creative team at Ralph Lauren Home, where I directed the presentation of collections in London, Milan and Brussels. So my background comes not only from studying interior architecture, but also having Ralph Lauren as a muse and teaching me about luxury and design, while making sure to pay attention to the details,” Pellizzoni smiles.

When Pellizzoni came to London nearly 20 years ago from Italy, he did not speak any English – but that did not stop him starting his career in retail, working at Ralph Lauren.

Coming from the north of Italy, an area known for its long traditions within furniture making and design, Pellizzoni has a big advantage when it comes to knowledge and

understanding of the trade. “Growing up in a family surrounded by people within the business was a huge inspiration. I started visiting the furniture fair Salone Del Mobile in Milan with my father already from a young age, and I still come back each year to spot the latest trends and make new contacts,” says Pellizzoni. One can say that design has been running through his veins from when he was a child, and his passion has only grown over the years, as he has fostered relationships with the most highly skilled builders, architects and specialists within the field.

Passion for home styling Inspired by films, everyday life and fashion, Pellizzoni observes and takes notes Issue 1  |  Summer 2018  |  17

Discover Southern Europe  |  Cover Feature  |  Maurizio Pellizzoni

Left: Designed at Talisman, a collaboration with Drummonds at Talisman, for London Design Festival. Photo: Darren Chung. Right: Pellizzoni’s Bang & Olufsen speaker design. Photo: Maurizio Pellizzoni.

on what is happening around him. Whether that is the glamour of Lake Como or his daily life in London where he lives, the interior designer combines this inspiration with his clients’ tastes and wishes. When it comes to home styling, Pellizzoni has three words to sum up his style: modern, timeless and elegant. “My work is based around those three words, but each project is always unique. At the studio, we listen carefully to what the clients want and need, and we create the home in their style while focusing on it being a functional living space for them,” Pellizzoni explains. Offering a boutique service built on close relationships with his clients, the interior designer’s passion is at the core of this service. “I always pay a lot of attention to the details. The final interior is not only pieces of furniture, but also what the furniture is surrounded with, whether that is vintage finds, fabrics, flowers, artwork or other accesso18  |  Issue 1  |  Summer 2018

ries that tie it all together.” Pellizzoni prides himself on tracking down rare antiques, textiles and fine art with which to create an original space. With a background also in fashion, he is an expert at using soft furnishings and textures to create soft, layered rooms which can be easily adapted to seasonal changes.

Bijou Marylebone Apartment & Belgravia Townhouse Two of Pellizzoni’s most recent home styling projects are very different from each other in terms of style, but still combine the modern, timeless and elegant elements he is known for. With the Bijou Marylebone project, this charming and small London apartment was refurbished for a young woman in her twenties in an upcoming prime spot of Marylebone. “Our vision was to create the scheme of a Parisienne boutique hotel with a vibrant, elegant, luxurious and modern style,” Pellizzoni says. The colour scheme used

is feminine and stylish, achieved by adding soft pastel colours and a mixture of polished brass and chrome finishes. With a mixture of colours and textures inspired by Coachella, along with carefully selected pieces of furniture and accessories, it has a fresh and contemporary look. “The flat makes you feel like you finally have space in the very cramped lifestyle that is London. In the winter it offers the ultimate cosiness and ‘hygge’ ambiance, and in the summer it offers airiness and light to make the most of the good weather.” The Belgravia Townhouse project was an early 19th century, five-storey terraced house located in London’s Belgravia district, an area that hosts some of the world’s most coveted and costly homes. This restored, pale-brown brick townhouse was styled for a professional couple, just married and with three children, that had very clear ideas about what they wanted. “They wanted a comfortable family home, not a

Discover Southern Europe  |  Cover Feature  |  Maurizio Pellizzoni

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Discover Southern Europe  |  Cover Feature  |  Maurizio Pellizzoni

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Discover Southern Europe  |  Cover Feature  |  Maurizio Pellizzoni

Top left: Surrey Hills Country Mansion. Photo: Jake Fitzjones Photography. Bottom left: Belgravia Townhouse. Photo: Gianni Franchellucci, Studio Immagine 3. Below: Limes Grove, Lewisham. Photo: Jake Fitzjones Photography. Bottom: Marylebone. Photo: Jake Fitzjones Photography.

showhome,” Pellizzoni explains. “Contemporary items from Italian brands such as B&B Italia, Poliform and Lema were chosen for the interiors, and also some luxury and timeless pieces from Ralph Lauren Home to give an extra luxurious feel. This combination gives this five-storey townhouse a simultaneously youthful and sophisticated air, where the eclectic mixture of furnishings and art reflects the owners’ interests.”

Glamorous nod to classic films Pellizzoni recently designed a new cover for Bang & Olufsen’s iconic and innovative Beoplay A9 speaker, a special edition launched exclusively at Harrods and now also available in Selfridges, Bang & Olufsen stores, NuConnect and via Pellizzoni’s online boutique. Featuring statement red lips on a white background, the design is fully immersed in the upper echelons of Italian style, exuding the essence of the icons of Italian cinema, where Pellizzoni drew his influences from. “The inspiration behind this design is based on the Federico Fellini films and some of the classic, iconic imagery of the stunning Sophia Loren in the earlier days of her career. I have always been a huge fan of those beautiful Italian films and inspired by the attention to detail they pervade. Red is a very vibrant colour, full of life, and in this design portrays passion and a sense of classic glamour,” Pellizzoni says, while adding: “As a designer, I am always looking for new images to use in my projects and I keep a collection of them for potential projects. I was delighted to be asked by Bang & Olufsen to collaborate on the design for this iconic speaker and I immediately knew the red lips image from my collection would be perfect. The statement design with the classic red lips brings a dimension of sensuality, the narrative glamour of iconic Italian films and classic Italian style to the speaker.” The classic series has now evolved with a new addition called Going Pop, featuring the same lip motif but with bright pop-art inspired colours added for a young and fresh look. Instagram: @mrpellizzoni Twitter: @mrpellizzoni Issue 1  |  Summer 2018  |  21


Discover Lisbon’s surprising and tasty culinary delights The mouth-watering smell of grilled sardines fills the air in the streets and alleys of Lisbon’s old historical district, Alfama. TEXT AND PHOTOS: UTE MUELLER / DPA / THE INTERVIEW PEOPLE

June is the month to come to Alfama. The locals celebrate their city patron Santo Antonio each year during this month with a special festival – and the sardine is the guest of honour. But the tiny fish is actually only the beginning of a trend that is quickly raising the profile of this country on the Atlantic Ocean. 22  |  Issue 1  |  Summer 2018

Portugal’s creative chefs are conquering the world – the Michelin Guide in 2015 awarded the country’s restaurants with a total of 17 of its coveted stars. Those stars, of course, went to expensive and exclusive restaurants. But visitors can also enjoy tasty and traditional dishes in more down-to-earth venues.

The Portuguese take pride in their food, and they are not afraid to say so. “Our sardines are the best in the world,” says José Borralho, president of Aptece, the umbrella organisation for Portugal’s culinary tourism. During the festival in Alfama, music can be heard coming from every window and colourful garlands decorate the old balconies. The high point comes on the night of June 13, when grills are set up in virtually every alley and a sardine grilling competition gets under way – a citywide event with each district vying for the title of having the tastiest sardine.

Discover Southern Europe  |  Special Theme  |  A Taste of Southern Europe

But when it comes to culinary adventures in Lisbon, it is not just about the sardine. The country’s most famous chef, José Avillez, has garnered two Michelin stars for his restaurant located in the heart of the Chiado, the city’s oldest and most fashionable district. The restaurant’s name is Belcanto, located as it is diagonally across the street from the Sao Carlos opera house. The restaurant is a regular haunt for Lisbon’s celebrities and is booked out weeks in advance.

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Discover Southern Europe  |  Special Theme  |  A Taste of Southern Europe

“Like our ancestors, we are constantly heading to sea. But now, instead of searching for new lands, we are looking for new tastes,” Avillez says.

After this stop, Filipa’s group will climb a hill to the Mouraria, the city’s erstwhile Moorish neighbourhood, which borders with Alfama.

For something a little more affordable, the simple fish restaurants along the harbour are the culinary heart of the city. Plus, for those in need of a quick snack, there are street food stands everywhere.

It was in the narrow, winding alleys of Mouraria that the city’s poor and downtrodden used to live. Today, artists are moving to this area, which has the feeling of a small village, a place where the locals greet each other on the street.

Filipa Paquita Valente is so enthusiastic about Lisbon’s cuisine that she has made it into her profession – leading visitors on twoto three-hour tapas tours. There are seven culinary stopping points, generally starting at the traditional Manteigaria Silva, located right behind the central Rossio Square. It is arguably one of the best delicatessen shops in the city.

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Good vibes await Filipa’s group at the Os Amigos Da Severa tavern, named after the city’s first Fado singer, Maria Severa, who was born on the same street in 1820. Fado is known for its melancholy mood, but the atmosphere in the tavern is anything but. “With Fado music it’s best to drink a ginjinha,” says Senhor Antonio, the owner of

“Our sardines are the best in the world.” José Borralho, president of Aptece

Tasca, as he pours a glass of Lisbon’s traditional sweet-tasting cherry liqueur. “You should come back here in the evening,” Antonio advises. “That’s when we grill sardines.” Tapas tour guide Filipa needs no further convincing: “I’ll definitely be back. The sardines are the best in this quarter.”


Photo credits: Alain Doire / Bourgogne-Franche-Comté Tourisme - Shutterkstock - Design: Agence Signe des Temps


ICONIC MOMENT No8: RELIVE HISTORY IN 3D HERITAGE.BOURGOGNEFRANCHECOMTE.COM With financial support from the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region.

Discover Southern Europe  |  Special Theme  |  A Taste of Southern Europe

Carefully cured and well oiled:

Spain’s tastiest region uncovered Appetite whetted by the promise of jamón, Ben Woods explores Spain’s landlocked Extremadura region. TEXT AND PHOTOS: BEN WOODS / PRESS ASSOCIATION / THE INTERVIEW PEOPLE

Juan Carlos pulls a piece of whittled bone from his pocket and pierces the sallow flesh. He retracts, lifts the sharp tendril to his nose and inhales. A smile flickers across his mouth. Then it is my turn. The beef bone – more a giant toothpick – is plunged back into the meat. He slips it clear and lets it linger beneath my nostrils. 26  |  Issue 1  |  Summer 2018

The aroma is sweet, woody and salty all at once. This is jamón country, and award-winning manufacturer Juan Carlos is getting me acquainted with Spain’s most coveted offerings. To encounter Spain’s food pioneers, I have taken the road less travelled. While most tourists hug the coastline, I have headed inland, driving two and a half hours from

Madrid to the region of Extremadura, where the sunsets burn blood-red and the landscape gasps for water.

An art to aging ham To my unsophisticated nose, the ham smells good enough to eat, but it is not quite ready. Like its neighbours – some 2,000 joints strung up by their trotters in Juan Carlos’ palatial curing room – it needs more time to mature. Jamóns can be kept in these darkened confines for up to three years. Ageing is an instrument used to coax it to its full poten-

Discover Southern Europe  |  Special Theme  |  A Taste of Southern Europe

tial. Another is the air. Each day, Juan Carlos opens the windows at Casa Bautista to allow the wind from the hills to dry the hams naturally. His father’s family-run factory is nestled in Montanchez, swathed in some of the purest air in Europe. Together, his simple methods create flavours worthy of a hefty price tag. This jamón can fetch up to 1,000 euros (£892) each. I take a sliver of the Ibérico Jamón de Belotta, a soft ruby-red meat flecked with white speckles. The spots peppering the flesh are evidence of the pig’s strict Spanish acorn diet. I also try the Cebo Jamón, a slightly tougher meat from a pig fed on grains. The Ibérico has the edge, but what is Juan Carlos’ favourite? He pauses, smiles again. “It is as if you ask what do you like most about your wife, husband, sister or brother,” he says.

Digging into Spain’s breadbasket I bunker down in Trujillo, a medieval town within reach of a weekend escape, but still serving up enough authenticity to leave you feeling ensconced in the Spanish way of life. A quick jaunt for a morning coffee sends me twisting around 16th century convents, crumbling palaces and the remnants of Moorish mosques. At night, its flagstone streets become other-worldly, when a light haze envelopes the town and the inky shadows take over. Issue 1  |  Summer 2018  |  27

Discover Southern Europe  |  Special Theme  |  A Taste of Southern Europe

Getting under the skin of Extremadura’s food scene involves jumping back behind the wheel. I take a 30-minute drive to the Roman city of Caceres where I search out Leosetin, an olive oil merchant boasting a few gongs for its locally-produced wares. The trick to tasting, I am told, is to put the tip of your tongue against your top teeth while allowing the oil to ooze towards the back of your mouth. Leosetin’s extra virgin variety is buttery and soft, leaving a peppery sensation flitting in your throat. An hour later, I head deeper into the city to seek out the two Michelin-starred restaurant, Atrio. The thought of a plate of refined Spanish tapas kicks my appetite into gear, but I am not here to sample the food. I am guided to an elevator at the fringes of the restaurant, which sends me sinking towards Atrio’s richly-resourced wine cellar. Here, Chateau d’Yquems rub shoulders with Chateau Margauxs. The vintages in this vast vault are presented like royalty lying in state. 28  |  Issue 1  |  Summer 2018

Discover Southern Europe  |  Special Theme  |  A Taste of Southern Europe

A blood-soaked history The following day, I spend some time getting to know Trujillo. Its roots reach back to the Roman period, but it was dominated by the Arabs for five centuries before the Christians seized control in 1232. Picking my way up towards the castle, it is easy to understand why the town was fiercely fought over. On the ramparts, the landscape unfurls into a 360-degree vista, barely broken by the surrounding mountains. As a traveller, it is a sight to behold. As a soldier, its strategic importance is plain to see. Standing on these lofty walls, you could easily spot the sun glinting off enemy armour, or the dust swilling up from incoming cavalry.

Trujillo’s greatest son Come the afternoon, we are exploring Trujillo’s other historic marvel, the conquis-

tadors. I am already getting into the spirit of things by staying at a former conquistador’s mansion, Villa Moritos, which is within striking distance of the ancestral home of Trujillo’s greatest son, Francisco Pizzaro. With little hope of inheriting wealth and amid a bitter famine, Pizzaro left Trujillo to embark on several risky expeditions in the early 16th century – one of which eventually culminated in conquering Peru. His presence, and the exploits of his soldiers, are seared into the skin of Trujillo. But even if that passes you by, a hulking six and a half tonne statue of the great man punctuates the town’s main square. Bestride his whinnying steed, the legendary conquistador keeps an eye on today’s travellers, including the thousands that descend on Trujillo for the annual cheese festival in the spring. I am told the smell is just as enticing as Juan Carlos’ jamón.

Issue 1  |  Summer 2018  |  29

French cheese to please a global palate has been shipping French cheeses across the world for 18 years. Brie, Camembert, Tomme de Savoie and goat’s cheese, amongst others, are FedExed as far as North America, Japan, Singapore, South Africa and Australia. Managing director Marc Refabert founded the online shop in 1997 with no previous experience of selling cheese. TEXT: LIDIJA LIEGIS  |  PHOTOS: FROMAGES.COM

The idea came about as he chatted in a Paris brasserie with his friend and eventual co-founder David Nutt. Nutt was travelling to the United States and took with him a selection of French cheeses for his American friends. They realised that there must be an 30  |  Issue 1  |  Summer 2018

easier way to deliver cheese to the US and thus was born the idea for The site is dedicated to cheese lovers everywhere: from its headquarters in Tours in the Loire Valley, it is able to deliver French cheeses to all major cities in the US and

Europe in 24 hours or between 48 and 72 hours to Asia and beyond. For those unable to narrow down their choices, or for firsttime buyers of French cheese, Refabert recommends ordering a cheese board. This has a selection of between four and 12 different cheeses, with availability dependent on the season. The founder suggests ordering a mixture of goats, cow and sheep milk cheeses. The hardest thing about selling cheese online, says Refabert, is the fact that unlike going into a cheesemonger, you cannot

Discover Southern Europe  |  Special Theme  |  A Taste of Southern Europe

smell or taste any of the cheeses. “I love the choice and the selection of cheeses but it’s difficult to describe and to try to sell my favourite cheeses online. People have to choose based on the look of a cheese.” A highlight of his job is the artisanal cheese producers he works with locally. He praises them as “truly honest, extraordinary people who fight to make quality products”.

Pick ‘n’ mix: order a cheese board of up to 12 cheeses and you are sure to find something to everyone’s taste.

On the day of delivery, the cheeses have to be at the peak of their maturity with some margin for travel, therefore isothermal packaging keeps the cheeses fresh. Once your order has arrived, as a rough guide, soft cheeses should be eaten within four to six days; goat’s cheese should be eaten within eight to ten days; and hard cheeses should be eaten within 15 days.

Issue 1  |  Summer 2018  |  31

Back to the (delicious) future Château Font du Broc is paradoxical: its intriguing wines and stunning architecture are deeply rooted in Provençal tradition, yet both are of relatively recent vintage. In a single generation one man’s vision has created something that feels like a millennium in the making. TEXT: MARTIN PILKINGTON  |  PHOTOS: COURTESY OF CHÂTEAU FONT DU BROC

The best place to evaluate the hopes and ambitions of a winery is in its cellars. A walk around Château Font du Broc’s vaulted cave tells a story. Sylvain Massa, the man behind the arrival of Château Font du Broc on the wine scene, is no dabbling hobbyist. The vast space was built with ancient stones in a style reminiscent of the Cistercian monasteries, that will still stand when most of this century’s monuments have tumbled. It’s a legacy, not a project. The vineyard’s owner, who also makes his home at the property, summarises his philosophy about the wine: “May my vines be raised 32  |  Issue 1  |  Summer 2018

with endless care, my wine looked after with infinite attention. Never should there be any resort to short-cuts or shady strategies on the road to quality. That’s my commitment.”

Short history, long view Massa bought the land in the hills, a 25minute drive from the coast, in 1979. It was originally dedicated to his primary passion, a stud farm raising horses that featured in competitions around the world, including the Olympics. But when a fire ravaged the region in 1988 he saw the opportunity to create something new out of the ashes: a vineyard in true Provençal style.

“The vines we grow were chosen as being typical of the region, and thus suited to the ‘terroir’ here and our excellent climate,” says Matthias Buissé, the château’s commercial manager: “And as is frequently the case in this area we grow quite a range of grapes to produce red, white and rosé wines. Our whites use only Rolle grapes, a local favourite that makes a wonderfully refreshing wine.” In 2013 the property achieved organic certification, which was no easy task. “We decided this was the right option for several reasons,” explains Buissé: “It respects the land of course, and it has to be said that there’s great interest in organic wines from connoisseurs. But it also fits what we want to do in a wider way: Monsieur Massa is passionate about the natural world, so we have ponds and olive groves and gardens, not just endless vines here.”

Discover Southern Europe  |  Special Theme  |  A Taste of Southern Europe

acteristics not arrived at accidentally, but certainly enjoyed by the wedding parties and business gatherings hosted now at the château. “Everything has been built using the right materials, the best materials, old stone, weathered beams, terracotta tiles that fit the region and the terroir, just like our wines,” says Buissé. “We decided to incorporate into the plans created with our architects the idea that the space could be used for receptions and meetings, so we can for example accommodate up to 450 people for a meal in the covered space that is at other times the covered manège. Additionally there’s a room that takes 200 people, ideal for weddings, with fine French gardens in front. We work with about ten traiteurs so couples marrying have a choice of top-quality suppliers in tune with the area and with whom we’ve built up good working relationships.”

Location, location, location

He continues: “Adapting to organic winemaking has also brought the taste of the wines nearer now to the traditional styles of the area, with the negligible use of sulphites for example, allowing the fruity flavours of

our reds to come through better; and the way the vines are tended is in part a return to the methods of several generations ago. The wines are refined in style, with very marked varietal characteristics.”

A warm and civilised welcome Above the cellars and their huge oak barrels stands the château, its pink-tiled roof emblematic of the region, the honeyed-stone walls as warm as a June day here. It belongs to the country. Accordingly the whole domaine feels at ease and welcoming, char-

With St Tropez and Sainte-Maxime halfan-hour’s drive away and beautiful historic villages far closer, the château’s location helps in attracting business meetings, but the prospect of sampling some Font du Broc wine may also exert a little influence: “Along with the meeting there will usually be a meal catered by one of the traiteurs we recommend, so it’s a social thing, not just business,” says Buissé. “Very often there’ll be a wine tasting arranged as part of the day too. You can see people who’ve been in tough talks visibly relax with a glass or two of our wines. For some reason it’s a particularly popular part of the experience!”

Issue 1  |  Summer 2018  |  33

|   the Discover Southern Europe  |  Hotel of Month  HOTEL OF THE MONTH  SPAIN

|  Portugal

A perfect palace:

Tapas, flamenco and a Moorish past Take the best of a 16th century palace and combine it with all the conveniences of a modern hotel. Add plenty of tapas and historical sights, and what you get is Casa Palacio de Carmona, a spacious haven for relaxation in Andalusia, Spain. Prepare to go back to the beginning of civilisation – and to do it in style. TEXT: LINNEA DUNNE  |  PHOTOS: CASA PALACIO DE CARMONA

Run as a family business since it was first opened in 1991, Casa Palacio de Carmona boasts all the stunning features of a real palace: from courtyards and ceiling ornamentations to fountains, antiques and drawing rooms. It is truly grand – yet far from pompous. “The atmosphere is welcoming and relaxing: fresh air, beautiful gardens, shaded courtyards and subtle scents of orange and jasmine – virtual silence interspersed with flowing fountain waters and singing birds…” 34  |  Issue 1  |  Summer 2018

owner Felipe Guardiola Medina enthuses. “It’s a wonderful hotel for creatives and all other guests to truly relax and unwind in. It’s a home away from home.” The Guardiola Medina family has worked hard to maintain the original features of the palace, as well as an element of luxury. With a chess room, a library, a swimming pool and an Arab garden, you will hardly be left wishing for more – though if you were, you would

likely still find it. If there is one thing this place has plenty of, it is space: to rest, to dine, to relax and to wander – all in well-maintained Renaissance opulence.

Discover Southern Europe  |  Hotel of the Month  |  Spain

From the comfort of the beds to the deliciousness of the buffet spreads, the experience at Casa Palacio de Carmona truly has a royal silver lining.

In 2014, the hotel’s most recent refurbishment phase was completed, boasting a number of new rooms as well as the new Felipe’s Tapas Bar. A private apartment, Suite Azul, also launched recently, boasting the original high ceilings of what used to be a ballroom, beautiful paintings, stunning views and plenty of space complete with a piano. “This is the best space of the Casa,” says Guardiola Medina. “Here you can cook for yourself, entertain friends, just unwind and read a book. It’s the best combination of comfort and privacy.”

and Arab influences including a castle and a mosque, architecture aficionados will be kept busy too; there are 14 churches and numerous palaces near Carmona alone – and if you head for Seville, you can also choose from El Real Alcazar, one of the oldest palaces in Europe, and the Giralda Tower of the Gothic Cathedral, which is the resting place of Christopher Columbus. Córdoba, meanwhile, boasts the highest and most envied wonder of the entire Arab civilisation, as well as a Jewish quarter with a magnificent synagogue and beautiful gardens at The Alcazar.

Bored? Not here. Perhaps it is lucky then, that Casa Palacio is just as spacious and pampering as it is, because after a day of exploring southern Spain, you will need it.

Casa Palacio de Carmona is situated in Andalusia in southern Spain, just a tenminute drive from the airport and about half an hour by car from Seville.

Food, history and nature Like every other part of Spain, Carmona boasts endless tapas bars serving exquisite food – some of them said to be among the best in all of Andalusia. Visitors can take a tapas tour in the stunning nearby Seville or a tapas-making class at Casa Palacio itself. But there is certainly no shortage of other things to do here, should you wish for more activity than downtime. Many of the towns of Andalusia are just a stone’s throw away, including Seville, Córdoba and Jerez, and the Moorish heritage is present throughout. Nature is generous too, with fascinating wildlife in the Donana National Park and untouched beaches in the Huelva and Cádiz area. Foodies can visit an olive oil farm, while those who want more action can enjoy a bull fight or some flamenco, or perhaps catch a theatre show or a round of golf. Between the spectacular Roman builds in Carmona Issue 1  |  Summer 2018  |  35


Lewis chessmen.

Musée des Beaux-Arts in Valenciennes

Travel back in time


Learn just how the past has shaped the future at a unique exhibition being held at the Musée des Beaux-Arts in Valenciennes. Have you ever wondered what shaped the world that we live in today? Well you can find the answer to this question and plenty more at the exhibition A History of the World in 100 Objects, being held for the first time in Europe from 19 April until 22 July at the Musée des Beaux-Arts in the French city of Valenciennes. Featuring 100 carefully chosen items from the British Museum in London, the exhibition retraces two million years of human history, showing how humanity has developed through its relationship with objects. From a 200 million-year-old Tanzanian stone chopping tool to a famous Viking chess set found in Scotland and dating back to the 11th century, the 100 objects on display will make visitors reflect on how our different societies were created, how they have developed through the ages and how much they have in common. 36  |  Issue 1  |  Summer 2018

“It’s a fascinating exhibition that we hope our visitors will love,” says Vincent Hadot, director of the museum. “After doing the world tour, this unique exhibition is now coming to Valenciennes thanks to the support of the British Museum, the Hauts de France region and the Valenciennes Intermunicipal Council, and we couldn’t be happier,” he concludes. Mithras.

Issue 1  |  Summer 2018  |  37

Investing in Portugal and Spain Investing in a second home abroad can be both exhilarating and nerve-racking, and, if done right, it can result in not just a lifestyle enhancement, but also financial returns. We take a look at Portugal and Spain, two popular holiday destinations, each with huge appeal for lifestyle buyers and investors. TEXT: SIGNE HANSEN  |  PHOTOS: ATHENA ADVISERS

Purchasing a second home abroad is a big dream for many, and, for most, the draw is not just the obvious lifestyle advantages, but also the financial potentials. Lloyd Hughes, from the property investment expert Athena 38  |  Issue 1  |  Summer 2018

Advisers, explains: “It’s almost always a bit of both. 80 per cent of our clients want their property to generate some sort of income when they’re not using it; at least, most people want the property to generate enough

income to cover the cost of the mortgage payments and maintenance.” However, while lifestyle buyers will be naturally guided by their relationship to a specific location, those more concerned with the investment potentials might benefit from taking a broader view of things.

Investing in the future in Lisbon With its charming narrow streets, buzzing plazas, and stunning sea views, it is

Discover Southern Europe  |  Property Profile  |  Athena Advisors

no wonder that Lisbon has experienced a significant rise in tourism in recent years. Named the coolest city in the world by Conde Nast Traveller in 2016, the Portuguese capital has also become one of the world’s most attractive capitals in which to both live and invest. “I think, broadly speaking, investing in Lisbon at the moment is like if you had the ability to invest in central London or Paris 20 years ago. Now, in those cities, prices can go up to almost anything, whereas the most expensive thing you will find in Lisbon will cost 10,000 euros per square metre, and that’d be right in the city centre overlooking the sea,” says Hughes. “Of course, the prices have already risen, but there’s still a lot of growth to be expect-

ed, and another incentive is Portugal’s tax and visa schemes.” One of the programmes particularly attractive for non-EU-citizens is the Portuguese Golden Visa. The programme gives investors (investing in property of €500,000 or more) a residency permit for a family, and, provided that the applicant spends two weeks in the country every two years, he or she will be eligible for a Portuguese passport after five years. For those planning on spending longer periods of time in their second home, Portugal’s Non-Habitual Resident Tax Programme provides another alluring prospect.

Left: With its stunning views, charming plazas, beach, and beautiful period buildings, Lisbon has experienced a tourism boom in the last few years, as has the market for property investment. Bottom right: Comporta, a serene, beautiful and previously undeveloped coastal area an hour from Lisbon, has become one of the hottest areas in which to invest in property in Portugal.

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Discover Southern Europe  |  Property Profile  |  Athena Advisors

The programme allows those who become fiscal residents in Portugal to benefit from special, reduced rates, or even no taxation at all, on income generated outside the country.

Finding a second home in Spain Like Portugal, Spain has a Golden Visa Programme for investors. However, while Portugal, and Lisbon in particular, offers exciting new potentials for investors, Spain typically attracts more traditional lifestyle buyers. Familiar with the region and attracted to the relaxed lifestyle, many look to 40  |  Issue 1  |  Summer 2018

invest in a second home as a way of “turning around their life”, says Hughes. “Spain is a more traditional market and those who target it tend to have visited and gone on holidays to coastal cities like Barcelona and Valencia. Madrid and Barcelona have always been popular with property buyers, and now the next tier is Valencia.” With properties typically starting at 500600,000 euros in Barcelona and Madrid and 400,000 euros in Valencia, the Spanish cities still present a tempting prospect for many international buyers. However, with

regulations prohibiting short-term lets in Barcelona and similar regulations underway in Valencia and Madrid, the market requires a bit more consideration for investors.

Matching expectation and exploring new locations Another thing that should be taken into careful consideration, no matter the location of the property, is the expected maintenance costs. “In the cities, you have lot of old period buildings with old pipes and so on, so newer properties come with a premium and what that means is peace of mind.

Discover Southern Europe  |  Property Profile  |  Athena Advisors

But it also makes it easier if you’re looking to rent the property out,” stresses Hughes. In this respect, renovated period buildings with modern interiors and amenities generally offer a sound investment inside the cities. But newly developed locations might provide investors with even more exciting potential. One such area is Comporta, a previously undeveloped area an hour outside Lisbon. “The local authority has been very careful not to overdevelop; they want to keep it low density and rural,” says Hughes. “We launched a project down there, the first of its kind for 15-20 years, and 80 per cent sold in the first four weeks.” With the great interest in renovations and new-builds, having a constant presence or adviser in the area is key to successful investments. In short, stresses Hughes, it is essential to be able to factor in all possibilities and potentials to ensure that dreams are matched to reality. Issue 1  |  Summer 2018  |  41

Discover Southern Europe  |  Culture Section  |  Culture Calendar

Culture Calendar – Where to go, what to see? It’s all happening here! TEXT: SANNE WASS


Ozzy Osbourne visits Spain and Portugal (30 June-5 July) Ozzy Osbourne’s farewell world tour will come to Spain and Portugal this summer. As the name implies, it will be the rock icon’s final world tour, celebrating more than five decades as a performer, both as a solo artist and as lead singer of Black Sabbath. Osbourne will visit Madrid on 30 June, Lisbon on 2 July and Barcelona on 5 July. 42  |  Issue 1  |  Summer 2018

The Sounds of the Dolomites. Photo: Marisa Montibeller

Les Francofolies de La Rochelle (11-15 July) The Francofolies festival is one of the year’s biggest events for contemporary French song and music, held in the historic French city La Rochelle. The line-up ranges from big names in popular song to more alternative music through the Young Audience and new talent shows, the purpose of which is to assist up-and-coming young talent on the French-speaking music scene.

Esplanade Saint-Jean d’Acre, La Rochelle, France.

EDP Cool Jazz in Cascais (11-31 July) Fado, jazz, indie, folk, funk and soul are some of the many genres performed at this year’s edition of EDP Cool Jazz in Cascais, Portugal, which will take place over seven nights in July. The programme is made

up by Portuguese as well as international names such as David Byrne, Gregory Porter and BADBADNOTGOOD. Various locations, Cascais, Portugal.

Óbidos medieval market (12 July-5 August) For three weeks this summer, the Portuguese town of Óbidos will be invaded by Issue 1  |  Summer 2018  |  43

Discover Southern Europe  |  Culture Section  |  Culture Calendar

France. Saint Tropez. 1979. Elliott Erwitt, self-portrait. © Elliott Erwitt/Magnum Photos

Óbidos medieval market. Press photo

44  |  Issue 1  |  Summer 2018

Discover Southern Europe  |  Culture Section  |  Culture Calendar

David Byrne. Press photo

jousting knights on horseback, heraldic flags, wizards, jugglers, court jesters, wandering minstrels, musicians and miners, when the whole town travels back centuries to medieval Europe. Open Thursdays to Sundays, the market’s craft demonstrators, food vendors and entertainment will give visitors a true feeling of the customs and spirit of medieval times. Óbidos, Portugal.

Festival Internacional de Benicàssim (19-22 July) Festival Internacional de Benicàssim is one of Europe’s biggest music festivals, held on Spain’s Costa del Azahar. The festival’s location – by the beach – makes it a perfect mix between a music festival experience and a summer holiday. Showcasing rock, indie, alternative and electro basks, this year’s line-up includes the likes of The Killers, Pet Shop Boys and Liam Gallagher. Benicàssim, Spain.

Paris Jazz Festival (until 22 July) The Floral Park in Paris will be full of activity this summer, when the Paris Jazz Festival invites revellers to 30 concerts over eight weekends, focusing on jazz, world and Afro-American music. In the daytime, the festival will also host workshops to make instruments from salvaged objects, introductions to percussion, conferences and a sound-discovery area for children. Parc floral de Paris, Route de la Pyramide, Paris, France.

The Killers. Press photo

Óbidos medieval market. Press photo

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Discover Southern Europe  |  Culture Section  |  Culture Calendar Liam Gallagher. Press photo

PHotoESPAÑA (until 26 August) Celebrating its 20th birthday this year, the international photography and visual arts festival PHotoESPAÑA will present no less than 90 exhibitions with works by 530 artists and a programme of 21 professional and public events across Madrid. Among the displays is Players. Magnum photographers come out to play, a panoramic exhibition by 46 Magnum photographers that reveals the more playful side of the prestigious agency. Various locations, Madrid, Spain.

Gregory Porter. Press photo

46  |  Issue 1  |  Summer 2018

The Sounds of the Dolomites (until 31 August) The Sounds of the Dolomites is a highaltitude open-air festival held on the high plain of one of the Trentino Mountains in Italy. Every year, the festival attracts tourists and musicians from all around the world to the beautiful and acoustic scene, which can only be reached by foot. The programme of concerts ranges from classical to jazz to world music to lyric songs. Pozza di Fassa Province of Trento, Italy.

Pet Shop Boys. Press photo

The Sounds of the Dolomites. Photo: Daniele Lira