2_0_DiscoverGermany_Dec/Jan_Issue10:Scan Magazine 1
5/12/13
18:24
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Discover Germany | Dine & Wine | Party Sparkle
aromatic lift of Pinot Noir.The tannic structure is also somewhere between those two. Felix Graf Adelmann, who vinifies smooth Lembergers in Kleinbottwar in Württemberg, loves the variety: “Lemberger is our most important grape here, for the very simple reason that it has incredible potential: there is a certain density, it has a certain kind of fruit that can deliver anything between cassis and cherry and, what is very important to me, even when you vinify these wines into age-worthy, grand cru styles, despite all its power, it never loses its elegance.”Closer to Stuttgart, the Ellwanger family are specialising in red wines: amongst Samtrot, Spätburgunder and Trollinger, they also grow Lemberger. Felix Ellwanger points out another facet of Lemberger: „Few grape varieties have such ageing potential: I am always impressed, tasting old Lembergers is gigantic, this usually only happens in Bordeaux or Piedmont.” Since it is a variety that breaks bud early and ripens late, it needs a fairly warm climate: in Austria it is thus at home in Burgenland in the deeply continental climate of the far east of the Alpine Republic, where the heat of the Pannonian Plain that stretches across Hungary ensures steady ripening – Burgenland only became part
of Austria in 1921. The variety’s origin, its exact genetic history, is lost in the mists of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, somewhere in those foothills warmed by Pannonian heat. In Germany the grape is almost exclusively confined to Württemberg: to the outskirts of Stuttgart and the slopes of the Neckar near Heilbronn – in both places steep vineyards provide excellent exposure to the sun. It came to Germany – only to Württemberg – with Austrian migrants just after the 30Years’War who had been called to the area to repopulate villages and towns decimated by the enduring conflict. The dark, powerful wine was prized in the past: it was what was drunk on feast days, the everyday wine in Württemberg was Trollinger. In the post-war years and still today, the two grapes are often vinified together, from over-cropped vines with little love: this indifferent way of treating Lemberger gave it a bad name and many Germans do not think highly of it – that’s understandable but a huge mistake: when freed from mediocre viticulture and vinification and given its due, it makes excellent, structured and delicious wines that always bring some of that summer warmth to the table. The best show smooth tannins from judicious oak ageing, that enticing pepper note and often even floral overtones. Great
Württemberg producers to try, apart from those named above, are Aldinger, Schnaitmann, Dautel, Weinmanufaktur Untertürkheim, Haidle, Neipperg and Wachstetter. The choice of Austrian quality producers is larger and the list of names is endless: Hans and Anita Nittnaus make elegant, sleek styles, Ernst Triebaumer makes incredibly pure and ageworthy wines, while Birgit Braunstein makes touching, ethereal Blaufränkisch of the highest order. Other equally impressive names are Krutzler, Moric, Umathum and Wohlmuth. All of these winemakers produce immense quality and at that level the differences are no longer about determining who is best – they are all excellent – but about savouring different soil structures and winemakers’ styles. Württemberg’s heavy Keuper soils give power and density, Burgenland’s Leithagebirge, a ridge of shell limestone, makes incredibly elegant wines while wines grown on slate are more brooding and mineral. The south of Burgenland boasts iron-rich soils enshrined in its Eisenberg DAC, these wines are savoury and layered. All of the wines have a fresh seam of acidity – and this makes them winners at the table. They are versatile and different. For once, the winter warmers may actually come from wintry Germany and Austria.
Above, from left to right: Graf Adelmann, Der Loewe von Schaubeck; Nittnaus Leithaberg; Schnaitmann Laemmler Bergmandel Lemberger 2011; Schnaitmann Simonroth Lemberger 2011
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