Ancient Architecture • W inter Art Previews • Camera Workshops
ROCK Photo Legend BARON WOLMAN
Rejuvenate! The Best Spa Treatments 150th ANNIVERSARY GLORIETA BATTLE THE HISTORY ISSUE A LOOK BACK AT THE MANHATTAN PROJECT
SANTA FE IN FOCUS
LOCAL EXPERTS WORLDWIDE
SANTA FE’S MARKET LEADER
439 CAMINO DEL MONTE SOL
1122 OLD SANTA FE TRAIL
Residential paradise and/or impressive gallery with spacious grounds, sculpture garden, interior walled courtyard and separate guest residence. Located in the heart of the historic Eastside walking distance to galleries and fine restaurants. #201105751 $3,650,000
Extremely special and rare offering at Museum Hill. Mid-century modern main house with beamed ceilings and fireplace in living room, and newer guest house on approx. 3 acres with incredible views and gracious circular driveway. #201105789 $1,595,000
343 EAST PALACE AVENUE
1340 UPPER CANYON ROAD
Extraordinary Dutch Colonial Revival masterpiece on the NM Register of Historic Places. Immaculate condition with pristine fixtures and finishes, beautifully landscaped, covered portales and outdoor fireplace. BCD zoning. #201200106 $1,350,000
Hacienda de Los Cerros. Absolutely Old Santa Fe. 100-year-old log cabin on 1 acre with recent renovations. 4,400 sq ft Northern NM ranch house with huge kitchen, guest quarters, 5 bedrooms, views and parking. #201105218 $1,395,000
Chris Webster 505.780.9500 & Tai Bixby 505.577.3524
David Dodge 505.690.5108
46 LAMY DRIVE
638 CAMINO DEL MONTE SOL
This home offers 2BR, 3BA, an office/guest room, fireplace, plaster walls, A/C, walnut floors, a 2-car garage, outdoor entertaining spaces, and great views. In gated and paved Bishops Lodge Estates. Owner is NM Real Estate Broker. #201103054 $1,175,000
In charming Santa Fe style, this 4BR, 3,600 sq ft adobe on a rare acre of land on the Eastside near Canyon Road, has a long bricked entry portal, vigas/beams, wooden floors, hand-carved doors, and an English garden. #201005540 $999,000
Judith Ivey 505.577.5157
Darlene Streit 505.920.8001
K.C. Martin 505.690.7192
K.C. Martin 505.690.7192
Search for the unique sothebyshomes.com/santafe
Operated by Sotheby’s International Realty, Inc. Sotheby’s International Realty® is a registered trademark. The Yellow House by Josephine Trotter used with permission.
326 GRANT AVENUE 505.988.2533 231 WASHINGTON AVENUE 505.988.8088 417 EAST PALACE AVENUE 505.982.6207
SPRING 2 0 12 | LIv e & ONLIN e CALIFORNIA ART AUCTION
March 20 – Beverly Hills Inquiries: 800-872-6467 Beverly Hills Deborah Solon, Ext. 1843 or DeborahS@HA.com San Francisco Alissa Ford, Ext. 1926 or AlissaF@HA.com 1. EDGAR ALWIN PAYNE
Navajos Waiting Oil on canvas board 14-3/4 x 18-1/4 in. Estimate: $50,000 – $70,000 HA.com/5103-12001
AMERICAN INDIAN ART AUCTION
May 5 - Dallas Consignment deadline: March 3 Inquiries: 800-872-6467 Delia Sullivan, Ext. 1343 or DeliaS@HA.com
2. A SIOUX POLYCHROME HORSE DANCE STICK Late 19th century Length: 20 in. Estimate: $6,000 – $8,000 HA.com/5105-11001
WESTERN ART AUCTION
May 5 - Dallas Consignment deadline: March 3 Inquiries: 800-872-6467 Kirsty Buchanan, Ext. 1741 or KirstyB@HA.com 3. WILLIAM ROBINSON LEIGH
Renegade at Bay, 1941 Oil on canvas 24 x 29 in. Sold for: $388,375, November 2011 HA.com/5085*70041
Annual Sales Exceed $800 Million | 700,000+ Online Bidder-Members 1518 Slocum Street | Dallas, Texas 75207 | 800 -872- 6467 | HA.com DA L L A S | N E W YO R K | B E V ER LY H I L L S | S A N F R A N C I S CO | PA R I S | G EN E VA TX & NY Auctioneer license: Samuel Foose 11727 & 0952360. Heritage Auction Galleries CA Bond #RSB2004175; CA Auctioneer Bond: Alissa Ford #RSB2005920. These auctions are subject to a 12-25% buyer’s premium.
THE WORLD’S THIRD LARGEST AuCTION HOuSE
For a free auction catalog in any category, plus a copy of The Collector’s Handbook (combined value $65), visit HA.com/SF23184 or call 866-835-3243 and reference code SF23184.
Horses in a Dream, photograph on paper, 9 x 26
The Messenger, photograph on paper, 12 x 36
GREGG ALBRACHT capturing the equine spirit
225 Canyon Rd. 路 Santa Fe, NM 87501 路 123 W. Palace Ave. 505.986.9833 (Canyon) 路 ManitouSantaFean.com 路 505.986.0440 (Palace)
BREAKING the RULES A 20 year retrospective on the work of Margarete Bagshaw Opens February 12, to December 31, 2012
Museum of Indian Arts & Culture
photo by Toba Tucker
710 Camino Lejo off Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe, NM, 505-476-1250
BREAKING the RULES After seeing Margareteâ€™s Show, Visit...
GOLDEN DAWN GALLERY 3 Generations of Painting History Margarete Bagshaw Helen Hardin (1943 - 1984) Pablita Velarde (1918 - 2006) 201 Galisteo St., Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 - 505-988-2024 - www.goldendawngallery.com Exclusive Estate Representative for Helen Hardin and Pablita Velarde
fa i r Mo n t h e r i ta g e p l a c e , e l c o r a z o n d e s a n ta fe, new M exico
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Fairmont Heritage Place, El Corazon de Santa Fe (the “Property”) is not owned, developed, or sold by Fairmont or its affiliates. El Corazon de Santa Fe, L.P., a Texas Limited Partnership (the “Developer”), is independently owned and operated and is the developer of the Property. The Developer uses the Fairmont brand name and certain Fairmont trademarks pursuant to a limited, non-exclusive, non-transferable and non-sublicensable license from Fairmont Management Company, LLC. Under certain circumstances, the license may be terminated or revoked according to its terms in which case neither the Residences nor any part of the Property will be identified as a Fairmont branded project or have any rights to use the Trademarks. Fairmont does not make any representations or guarantees with respect to the Residences or the Property and is not responsible for the Developer’s marketing practices, advertising, and sales representations. This advertising material is not an offer to sell nor a solicitation of an offer to buy to residents of any state or jurisdiction in which registration requirements have not been fulfilled. Pricing and information are subject to change without notice and are not guaranteed.
Santa Fe - Los Angeles
Service totals include American Eagle. AmericanAirlines, AA.com and We know why you ďŹ‚y are marks of American Airlines, Inc. oneworld is a mark of the oneworld Alliance, LLC.
february / march 2012
24 Close to the Flame As the gateway to Los Alamos, Santa Fe played a role in the top-secret Manhattan Project. Robert reck
26 Stealing Fire Portraits of Los Alamos scientists by David Robin
Santa Fe Studios opens for business on 65 acres southwest of town.
32 There’s Something About the Light Santa Fe photographers interpret the Northern New Mexico landscape.
10 Publisher’s Note 14 City Different Indulge your senses at ArtFeast; Santa Fe Studios, ready for action; the women of Taos 16 Mind+Body Rejuvenating massages for a mid-winter pick-me-up 18 Santa Fe Institutions The Black Hole GABRIELLA MARKS
20 Q+A Photographer Baron Wolman
39 Art Going behind the lens at the Santa Fe Photographic Workshops + gallery previews Iconic rock-and-roll photographer Baron Wolman talks about his new book, The Rolling Stone Years.
Amadeus Leitner, Galisteo Sunrise, archival pigment print, 20 x 34"
49 Living Fiber artist MargueriteWilson’s vaastu-inspired home 55 Dining Whoo’s Donuts, the reinvented Palace + romantic restaurants for you and your Valentine 62 History The 150th anniversary of the Battle of Glorieta Pass 64 Day Trip Red River
“JUST DESSERTS” ~ Glass ~ 18" x 8" x 8"
February 24 - March 14 JANE SAUER 652 Canyon Road Santa Fe, NM 87501 505 - 995 - 8513
j s a u e r g a l l e r y. c o m firstname.lastname@example.org
Cooking Without Calories
ON THE COVER Lynne Pomeranz, Sungazer, framed photography, 27 x 28". To see more of Pomeranz’s work, visit Beals & Abbate Fine Art (bealsandabbate.com).
In this issue we marry two compelling topics that serve each other well and are so perfect for Santa Feans: photography and history. Photography captures a moment in time, whether five minutes ago or five decades ago, and preserves it for the infinite future. I especially enjoy old photos of downtown Santa Fe—they serve as a tangible reminder that there was commerce and activity in a particular building before it became an art gallery or ice cream parlor. They provide us with a clearer history. I was once advised by an attorney that a camera can scare away a would-be criminal better than a firearm. Pictures don’t lie and are definitely worth a thousand words. The other beautiful thing about photography is that it’s something we all have access to, often via our handy cell phones. For amateur photographers, Santa Fe makes for an incredible backdrop on which we can capture the smiles of our loved ones, the beauty of a sunset, or the changing light on the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. It’s a medium everyone can play with. Of course, the professional photographers who contributed to this issue take the medium to another level with their expertise, artistic passion, patience, and determination. Their work earns our respect as fine art and warrants exposure in our best museums and finest galleries. As you enjoy these images, consider the artistic skills each photographer developed over years of studying and pursuing a unique skill set. Northern New Mexico gives each of us an incredible array of colors, scenes, and subject matter with which we can record our own personal history or create incredible fine art. There’s amazing light and history unfolding at every second in this stunning place.
In this issue, we are featuring Vueteligent. By scanning this symbol with your smartphone, you will immediately be connected to Santa Fe’s best online calendar and our website.
O V ERHE A R D
Q: What do you think is the most photogenic site in Northern New Mexico? “The curve about 15 miles south of Taos that you crest and then, BAM!—there is the gorge and that amazing sweep of flat land and big sky. It takes my breath away every time,“ says Mary Bonney, owner of The William & Joseph Gallery on Canyon Road.
Rich Verruni, managing director of The Bishop’s Lodge Ranch Resort & Spa, favors “the mountain range above and behind Bishop’s Lodge toward the ski area when half is covered with snow and half is yellow with aspen color. I love that shot!”
“I moved here shortly after having read The Lord of the Rings, so I was mesmerized by locations that evoked the Middle Earth of my imagination, such as Plaza Blanca and Tent Rocks. They’re like nowhere else on earth,” says Teresa Neptune, photographer and owner of Teresa Neptune Studio/Gallery on Canyon Road.
Jason Hool, president of Santa Fe Studios, prefers “whichever area I find myself in during ‘magic hour’—the period of time just before and after sunset, when the Sangre de Cristo Mountains earn their name and the sky gets hyper-real. That time is breathtakingly beautiful, no matter where I am within the region.”
jorge santos jorge santos gary weisman gary weisman lynn boggess lynn boggess
david simon david simon kent williams kent williams lee price lee price
robert striffolino robert striffolino javier marĂn javier marĂn sergio garval sergio garval
francis di fronzo francis di fronzo louisa mcelwain louisa mcelwain pamela wilson pamela wilson
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Retail Store Antiques, Home Decor, Objects 405 Paseo de Peralta, Santa Fe, NM 87501 505.983.3912 | www.vrinteriors.com
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ready for its close-up
the buzz around town
m i l e s t o n e s The Plaza was as popular a place for relaxing in 1912—the year New Mexico became a state—as it is today, judging by this hand-colored photograph from the Palace of the Governors archives. Help celebrate the state’s centennial (and Santa Fe’s first century as the state’s capital city) at any of the dozens of events planned throughout the year (see nmcentennial.org). Learn more about New Mexico’s journey to statehood at the New Mexico History Museum’s website, nmhistorymuseum.org.
f i l m Filmmakers inspired by Northern New Mexico’s distinctive landscape (and ongoing tax incentives offered by the state) now have one more reason to set their cameras down here. Santa Fe Studios, a full-service, $26 million production facility, opened just south of town in November with a kick-off event that drew executives from Disney, Sony, Warner Brothers, and other Los Angeles–based film studios. The 65-acre, LEED-designed complex is more than Hollywood-friendly, with two 19,000-square-foot soundstages, 24,000 square feet of office space, and 57 acres for back-lot filming. But features like Pueblo-style architecture, dressing rooms with terraces, and 360-degree mountain-and-desert views make it New Mexico all the way. “From its inception, we knew that we had to accurately reflect all of Santa Fe’s positives,” says Santa Fe Studios President Jason Hool. Six years in the making and funded in part by a $10 million economic development grant from the state, Santa Fe Studios is owned by Jason; his father, Lance Hool; and his uncle, Conrad Hool. While working to sign up their first film production this year, the Hools are also launching an internship training program with Santa Fe Community College, the Institute of American Indian Arts, and New Mexico Highlands University. Technical seminars for the local film community are also in the works.–Samantha Schwirck
ladies first Mabel Dodge Luhan. Millicent Rogers. Lucy Harwood. Over the past 100 years, Taos has attracted a striking number of adventurous, free-spirited women who’ve come to live, work, and create in its inspiring surroundings. In 2012, the community honors its iconic women—both historic and contemporary—with The Remarkable Women of Taos and Northern New Mexico, a series of exhibitions, lectures, and other activities that runs throughout the year. The Harwood Museum salutes abstract painter Agnes Martin (1912–2004) with Before the Grid (February 25–June 17), an exhibition of her biomorphic paintings. Less popular than Martin’s later, grid-like pieces, these early, more organic works were influenced by the Taos Moderns and other New Mexico painters. On March 22, the Harwood celebrates not just the 100th anniversary of Martin’s birth but the entire Remarkable Women program, with an event featuring Marsha Mason and Ali MacGraw. Legendary artist Maria Martinez is honored at the Millicent Rogers Museum with an exhibit titled Matriarch of San Ildefonso, showcasing her famous black pottery, while the museum’s trendsetting namesake is spotlighted in The Power to Create, Collect, and Inspire, featuring never-before-exhibited jewelry fabricated by Rogers. Both shows run January 1 through December 31. At the E.L. Blumenschein Home, Out of the Background: The Women Artists of Early Taos (February 10–May 18) brings to the forefront the lives and art of Evelyn Gaspard, Mary Shepard Greene Blumenschein, and other early Taos residents whose art was often overshadowed by the prominence of their husbands, sons, or brothers. For a complete list of 2012 events and more information on the inspiring women of Taos, visit taos.org/women.–SS ta o s
EntErtainmEnt systEms Audio & Video • HomE tHEatEr Mabel Dodge Luhan
motoriZEd sHadEs & draPEs HomE automation FLat PanEL tELEvisions ProgrammEd rEmotEs
Extraordinary Products suPErior sErvicE ExcEPtionaL vaLuE
top to bottom: carl van vechten; tony vacarro; tony vacarro; courtesy of artsmart
aesthetically delicious Stop, look, and eat—it’s time for Santa Fe’s 15th-annual Edible Art Tour (February 24, 5–8 pm). This year, more than 41 Santa Fe galleries are pairing with chefs from top local restaurants and offering guests an evening of great art and great cuisine. Work your way through downtown and up Canyon Road, with stops at Evoke Contemporary for treats from Il Piatto, InArt for samples from La Boca, Darnell Fine Art for cuisine from Jambo Café, and more. (A complete list of participants is available at artfeast.com.) Sponsored by the Santa Fean, Edible Art Tour is part of the 15th-annual ArtFeast (February 24–26), a weekend of events that include a fashion show, an art-and-homes tour, a champagne brunch with local artists, and a Saturday-night auction and dinner honoring painter Poteet Victory. One more reason to attend: all proceeds benefit art programs and scholarships for Santa Fe’s schoolchildren. For tickets ($15–$150) and additional information, visit artfeast.com.–SS ART
OPEN TUESDAY— SATURDAY 9 AM — 5 PM MONDAY BY APPOINTMENT 505.983.9988 CONSTELLATIONSANTAFE.COM 215 N GUADALUPE SANTA FE, NM 87501
| M I N D + B O DY |
finding your bliss r e juve nat ing spa t re at me nt s by Amy He ga r ty
With the excitement of the New Year drifting into distant memory and the outside temperatures still hovering around the freezing mark, there’s no time like the present for a mid-winter pick-me-up. Here, discover some of Santa Fe’s unique, rejuvenating massages—massages that go beyond the standard feel-great offerings and provide some serious TLC from head to toe and even inside out.
Absolute Nirvana, just off a quiet, tree-lined cul-de-sac, is an ideal downtown getaway. Below, left: Before your treatment at Ten Thousand Waves, take a complimentary dip in one of the public soaking tubs or stroll the grounds, which include a koi pond (pictured).
All-Over Care: “Nose to Toes” 80 minutes, $149 Ten Thousand Waves, 3451 Hyde Park Road tenthousandwaves.com
Neck and Shoulders: “The Ultimate Stress-Buster” 90 minutes, $175 Absolute Nirvana, 106 E Faithway Street absolutenirvana.com
Since Carolyn Lee opened her downtown getaway in 2005, Absolute Nirvana, which centers on Balinese health and beauty rituals, has been ranking at the top of superlative spa lists. As the name of this particular massage indicates, The Ultimate StressBuster was designed to remedy the pernicious effects of stress, from sore muscles to overall tension and anxiety. A full-body massage at heart, the treatment, which senior therapist Lauren Janson began with deep stretches of my arms and upper body, pays particular attention to the neck and shoulders. A powerfully penetrating white-flower analgesic—which alleviates ailments from arthritis to muscle strain—was mixed with a warm oil base and massaged all over my body. Vapors from the mixture applied to my neck, chest, and shoulders eased sinus pressure, as did a warm towel draped across my face. When the massage itself ended, I retreated to a private steam room, where the analgesic was able to penetrate even further.
Feet: “Sole Revival” 50 minutes, $125; 25 minutes $75 Inn and Spa at Loretto, 211 Old Santa Fe Trail innatloretto.com
This dedicated reflexology treatment with a punny name not 16
deborah fleig;absolute NIRVANA; BODY OF SANTA FE; INN AND SPA AT LORETTO
One of the most comprehensive treatments in town, Noes to Toes at Ten Thousand Waves is the gift (to yourself) that keeps on giving. Combining modified versions of a number of the Japanese spa’s signature offerings, Nose to Toes (which was revamped this past July) offers a total-healing experience for every part of your body. Therapist Valli began our session with a long-stroked fullbody massage that helped me to quickly decompress and ease into the process. The decompressing continued with gentle but deep Thai stretches; an upper-body Yasuragi treatment, which relieves tension in the head, neck, and face; and an Ashi Anma foot massage. (Ashi Anma draws on authentic Japanese shiatsu techniques and uses stretching plus focused pressure from the technician’s fingers and palms to induce all-over relaxation.) My feet and calves were scrubbed with a mixture of rice bran, adzuki bean powder, and green tea, then wiped clean with warm towels. The most surprising part of the treatment was the light yet vigorous full-body exfoliation. The combination of the external friction and increased blood circulation created an instantly warm feeling that eased every ache and pain and made me feel like I was detoxing on the spot. By the end of the session the transformation was complete: I had arrived for my appointment a bundle of stress and left feeling as limp as a rag doll.
By the end of the session the transformation was complete: I had arrived for my appointment a bundle of stress and left feeling as limp as a rag doll. only feels good, it is good―—for your tired, aching feet as well as your taxed internal organs. Tracing its roots to ancient times, modern reflexology centers on the belief that reflex points in the feet correspond to other parts of the body—from the lungs to the liver, from the appendix to the adrenal glands. Focused, skilled pressure applied to those points is credited with relieving stress, releasing feel-good hormones, and facilitating self-healing. Therapist Halimah Seidel led me through the elegant spa of the landmark Loretto Inn until we came to a dark but warmly lit room, where I laid on a wonderfully heated, pillow-soft table. A weighted mask was placed over my eyes, shutting out all distractions and allowing for major relaxation. The treatment featured deep, fast, deliberate movements and was topped off with a warm towel rub that also involved massage-like pressure. While there are virtually no bells and whistles with Sole Revival, the focus and precision of this treatment made it one of the most relaxing experiences I’d ever had.
Inner Peace: “Energy Balancing” 60 minutes, $80 Body of Santa Fe, 333 Cordova Road bodyofsantafe.com
The stresses of everyday life can leave us feeling out of whack. Energy-balancing sessions are a popular tool for restoring harmony and balance to one’s body, mind, and spirit, allowing for physical and mental relaxation as well as the removal of blockages that keep us from achieving true peace and happiness. Opened in 2004 by Lorin Parrish, who’s practiced and taught energy medicine and developed several bodywork programs, Body of Santa Fe offers a rich selection of energy treatments, such as reiki therapy and cranialsacral massages. For my visit, I chose to focus on my chakras, which practitioners say are the body’s energy centers. Corresponding to a holistic set of life issues, the seven chakras affect everything from self-worth to relationships, from creativity to financial independence. Therapist Lynsey Rubin began our session with a light massage and explained that physical relaxation is a key part of the experience, which is dependent upon feelings of trust, comfort, and safety. This state of relaxation also helps the therapist become attuned to his or her client, she added. With deliberate hands and breaths, Lynsey evaluated the state of each of my chakras, eventually telling me that my system was “clean” (which, I admit, I was relieved to hear). She did note, however, that there was what she called congestion in one of my chakras, and then set out to remove it. With more handand-breath work, accompanied by a series of gentle questions, she manipulated the energy flow in that chakra. The goal was to redirect the flow and restore balance, relieving me of any stuck or frozen energy. Lynsey explained that energy work requires an open mind,
Above: The spa at the Loretto Inn offers renowned comfort in a landmark setting. Left: Relaxation is a key element of a chakrabalancing session at Body of Santa Fe.
and that the healing it brings about happens on a more subtle level than is the case with other kinds of treatments. For me, the benefit of this session was an increased thoughtfulness and self-awareness with regard to a certain area of my life, as well as, upon getting up from the massage table and heading back into the world, an overall feeling of bliss.
First and Last Resort Take your mid-winter pick-me-up to the next level and book a getaway at one of Santa Fe’s world-class resorts. Encantado (encantadoresort.com), set on 57 stunning acres of former private ranchland in the Tesuque Valley, offers 65 casitas that combine historical charm with modern-day luxury. The fullservice spa takes inspiration from local traditions and cultures, offering treatments that honor Santa Fe’s reputation as a center of healing and spirituality. One good rejuvenating bet: Mountain Spirit Purification (120 minutes, $300), which includes a sage smudge, adobe-clay body mask, and scalp, foot, and junipersage hot-stone massages. Also in the Tesuque Valley, the 450-acre Bishop’s Lodge Ranch Resort and Spa (bishopslodge.com) offers highend amenities as well as scenic adventures such as guided horseback rides through the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Its SháNah spa (which means “vitality and energy” in Navajo) has a robust list of packages and à-la-carte services. SháNah Magic (150 minutes, $325) combines a custom massage, custom facial, and “ultimate” manicure for an experience that is sure to leave you refreshed, rejuvenated, and restored.
| S a n ta F e I n s t i t u t i o n s |
atomic-age art supplies s hopping for t he st ra ng e at t he Black Hole by Ja n Er n s t Adlma nn
photo graph y by Sy bi l Wats on
An unconventional resource for many Northern New Mexico artists for decades, the vast and sprawling buildings and yards of Los Alamos’s Black Hole surplus company have long been a trove for those in search of cast-off industrial, hightech, and scientific paraphernalia (chiefly matériel from the city’s national atomic laboratory). The cornerstone of the Black Hole’s relevance to the local art world, however, lies in the fact that the vocabulary of modern sculpture (and, to some extent, other art forms as well) was, a century or so ago, exponentially enlarged by the rise of new modes of art creation, i.e., by the stratagems of socalled collage and assemblage artists. While not everyone trolling the Hole’s claustrophobic aisles is an artist, it still holds that if you’re in search of, say, any possible sort of disassembled circuit board or a blankly staring cathode tube—in other words, if you’re after something readily identifiable—the Hole is your stop of first resort. What intrigues and stimulates artists, however, is undeniably the sheer inexplicability, indescribability, incomprehensibility of “stuff” on hand in this island of discarded government toys. Certainly for this writer, a sometime assemblagist-sculptor himself, the mountains of utterly enigmatic materials from which to lift a promising element—artistically speaking—exude a powerful, even perverse allure. (Perverse not least because one always has a creeping curiosity about the original purpose of the object in hand.) Upon stepping through the Hole’s single, nondescript doorway, one is immediately aware of being a stranger in a very strange land. Brushing by the big Chart of the Atomic Elements and turning into the stygian aisles, you are suddenly aware not only of the brooding silence of the place, but also of an eerie chirping somewhere in the dark. That chirping is the idle chatter of a Geiger counter at the entrance, perpetually registering mere ambient, everyday radioactivity. (Yikes!) And while, yes, there are defined aisles—many of them—to stroll up and down, the setting is otherwise anything but orderly, inviting, or well-lit. At the front desk you’ll find a guest book, and a glimpse at its entries testifies to the Black Hole’s renown. Given how very hard it is even to find the place, it is doubly remarkable that the people who’d signed the book on today’s visit included fans from Clinton, Tennessee; Jackson, New Jersey; and San Diego, California, many of them leaving brief gasps of Wow!, Who knew?!, and We will return! Variously, artists and hobbyists, after an hour or so of peering and prodding in the murky depths of the place, present their treasures to the owners for an estimate (nothing is price-marked). Most treasure seekers, holding up a glossy ceramic object or something of gleaming precision steel (or plastic, rubber, or fragile laboratory glass) seem compelled to ask, How much for this, uh, widget? Or doohickey, thingamabob, gizmo, or whatchamacallit, since they’ve not the faintest what they’re holding in their hands. Indeed, however, the inscrutability of it all—in this emporium of otherworldly objects—is a peak part of the Hole experience. Enigma powerfully propels the artistic imagination—far more than mere beauty. Since the materials warehoused here derive primarily from the Los Alamos National Laboratories (for years, there have been public18
Any number of questions arise among casual shoppers, the most common being: Is it radioactive? access, open-air sales of detritus mounted by the labs), any number of questions arise among casual shoppers. The most often-asked being: Is it radioactive?! (The answer: The Labs categorically cannot divest themselves of such.) Other queries: Wow! What do you suppose this was? (Even the late founder, the mildly eccentric, eminently lovable Ed Grothus, didn’t always know.) And: Gosh, this must’ve cost a fortune! On that latter score, this writer has more than once purchased an object that clearly had never been used (items sometimes still lie around in their original packaging). One then has the sneaking suspicion that when the Labs determined to purchase this or that widget (even widgets as large as hundreds of pounds in weight), they’d very likely say, Well, these cost so much, we might as well buy a half dozen while we’re at it! Soon, as Grothus’s fans hope, his commitment to all things antinuclear (i.e., armaments-based) will be raised in some New Mexico
Santa Fean 1/3rd_Layout 1 1/4/12 4:10 PM Page 1
VE USI L C EX U. S. SH OWING
Paris. Madrid. Denver. March 25-July 8, 2012
HOTEL PACKAGES WITH VIP TICKETS
Yves Saint Laurent, Black Velvet Sheath Dress, Paris. Rose Satin Bow, Paris Haute Couture Collection, Fall–Winter 1983. ©Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, Paris. Photo by Gilles Tapie.
ARTsmart presents the 15th Annual ™
Santa Fe Salvaged materials from Los Alamos National Laboratories and beyond make the Black Hole a favorite stop for the artistic and the curious. Colorful sculptures—many expressing antiwar themes—are sprinkled into the mix of treasures for sale.
location yet to be determined. While still alive, Grothus, at his own expense, commissioned and had shipped, from China, two towering granite obelisks with dedicatory, antiwar inscriptions. For the time being, they rest in the front yard, encased in two enormous containers, amid a great field of whatever-it-may-be, stretching into the distance. The Black Hole, 4015 Arkansas, Los Alamos, 505-662-5053, blackholesurplus.com
Purchase your tickets at artfeast.com today!
February 24-26, 2012 505.603.4643, email@example.com or at the ARTsmart office, 102 E. Water Street, Santa Fe, NM 87501 Edible Art Tour tickets are also available at participating galleries and through Tickets Santa Fe, Lensic Box Office, 505.988.1234, ticketssantafe.com.
| Q + A |
photo gra phe r B a ron Wolma n on Th e Rolling Stone Ye a rs i nte r vi e w by Hal Espe n
Santa Fe resident Baron Wolman, 74, stands alongside Jim Marshall, Annie Leibovitz, Henry Diltz, Barry Feinstein, and Ethan Russell as one of the pioneering photographers of rock and roll. As Rolling Stone’s first staff photographer, he created now-classic images of Jerry Garcia, Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix, and other rock legends. Later in his career, he produced groundbreaking fashion and sports photography, earned his pilot’s license so that he could do aerial photography, and founded Squarebooks, an independent publisher. Wolman’s new book, The Rolling Stone Years (Omnibus), collects his classic portraits and documents San Francisco counterculture in the late 1960s. His work can be seen at Santa Fe’s Andrew Smith Gallery. Before we met, I’d developed a crazy image of you as an aristocratic German jet-setter, not an affable Midwesterner from Columbus, Ohio. You have no idea how disappointed people are when they meet me. They have a concept of a tall rock star. I watch their faces drop when I come into the room.
When did you finally move here? In 2001. I was feeling pretty Californicated, and Santa Fe was the only place on my list. My astrologer gave me a relocation reading and told me my line had gone right through the Bay Area, where
What brought you to New Mexico? I first saw Santa Fe in 1967. Ramparts magazine gave me an assignment to photograph Lady Dorothy Brett, a painter who was part of the D. H. Lawrence crowd. I landed at the old Pueblo-style airport in Albuquerque, started driving north, and immediately thought, “What is this about? This is another world.” Six months later, I got another assignment, from Sunset, to shoot the Taos Ski Valley. That started it. Every six months I’d come back and hang out. There was something that felt good. The scale is still pretty human here. It was eye-dazzling.
Top: Baron Wolman, at home in Eldorado, holds a 1967 photograph he took of The Who’s Keith Moon at the Cow Palace in San Francisco. It was Wolman’s first concert assignment for Rolling Stone. Right: Wolman shot this photo of Jimmy Page’s guitars on stage at Led Zeppelin’s last U.S. concert, in July 1977 at the Oakland Coliseum in California.
“When I go to the big darkroom in the sky, these stories go too,” says Wolman, explaining why he wanted to write his new book.
everything happened for me. But she told me, “If you move to Santa Fe, you’re going to have to work really hard, you’re going to tend toward isolation, and you’re going to have to work to build community there.” She was right.
Wolman photographed the musical icons of an era, including (clockwise from top) Johnny Cash at San Francisco’s Circle Star Theater, 1967; Grace Slick of Jefferson Airplane, 1968; John Fogerty of Creedence Clearwater Revival in Oakland, California, 1970; and Frank Zappa on a bulldozer in Laurel Canyon, Los Angeles, 1968.
What do you think of the photography scene here? It’s phenomenal. I don’t think there’s any place like it in such a concentrated space. The artists working here, the culture and geography—it’s inspiring. It’s a good news/bad news thing. You can’t earn a living here unless you have connections; some great photographers here are struggling. The issues that face photographers everywhere are all evident here. But I admire the passion that local photographers have, how serious they take it. Tell me about your new book of rock photography, The Rolling Stone Years. This is a really important book for me. The subtitle is Every Picture Tells a Story, and I tell the stories of how these shots happened. I needed to do it. When I go to the big darkroom in the sky, the stories go too. The reception has been phenomenal.
Santa Fe has changed a lot since 1967. Yes, but the day Trader Joe’s opened was the happiest! You’ve got Trader Joe’s and Whole Foods, that’s all you need. 22
How long did you work for Rolling Stone? From 1967 to 1970, pretty much. Other stuff, including all my color shots, came later. People think of me as a rock-and-roll photographer, but that was for a very short period of time. I studied philosophy in college. My theory is that life is a smorgasbord. If you stop at the appetizers, you’re missing the salad, the soup, the pasta, the entrée, and the dessert. For me, photography has always been about exploring life. I don’t know whether my career is photographer, publisher, or writer.
54th Annual heard museum guild
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Honoring Signature artiSt
DA n n A m i n g h A A r t • E n t E r tA i n m E n t • F o o d • 7 0 0 A r t i s t s • c u lt u r A l pErFormAn cEs • music on t w o s tA g E s • m u s E u m o p E n Advance tickets on sale through February 15, 2012. Call 602.251.0205 or visit heard.org/fair.
Dan Namingha (Tewa/Hopi), “HOPI,” 2011
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close to the flame
as Los Alamos’s nearest urban neighbor, Santa Fe played a key role in the mysterious Manhattan Project
In May 1943, both Los Alamos and Santa Fe looked peaceful enough, even bucolic. But appearances don’t always reflect what’s going on just a little deeper down. While local New Mexicans went about their daily business, scientists from around the world began gathering here, secretively and silently. They came to work on a device that physicist J. Robert Oppenheimer later likened to Vishnu, the Hindu god of destruction: the first atomic weapon. While Los Alamos was the center of the action, home to the top-secret Manhattan Project and the new Los Alamos National Laboratories, Santa Fe played a quiet but vital supporting role. The relative isolation of Northern New Mexico made it a perfect spot for the Manhattan Project, and Oppenheimer, who served as the project’s scientific director, knew that isolation firsthand. He had been renting a vacation cabin in Pecos (he later bought it) since 1925, when he was 24, and he enjoyed horseback riding in the Jemez Mountains. After 18 years of coming and going, he was confident Los Alamos was remote enough for the task at hand. To guard against betrayal, either accidental or by design, a tight security system was put into place, and officials across the country were committed to a campaign of deliberate misdirection about the Manhattan Project. Those working at Los Alamos were told to refer to their location only as “the Hill,” to call themselves “engineers,” and to refer to the bomb itself (which remained a secret even to some project participants) as “the gadget.” Letters coming in and going out of Los Alamos were censored. In addition, military personnel encircled Los Alamos—there were checkpoints, with guards posted 24 hours a day, as well as air reconnaissance flights. Undercover agents in Los Alamos and Santa Fe kept wary eyes out for signs of trouble. 24
Top: The road from Santa Fe to Los Alamos, ca. 1935–1942. The 35-mile trip could take up to four hours in the Manhattan Project days. Middle: West San Francisco Street near the Plaza in Santa Fe, as it looked to Los Alamos–bound scientists in the early 1940s. Bottom: Representatives from Los Alamos County proudly display a mushroom-cloud logo as they meet with New Mexico Governor Thomas J. Mabry (second from left) in the late 1940s.
Palace of the governors photo archives
by C ra ig Sm it h
Top left: Dorothy McKibbin in her office at 109 East Palace. Top right: The portal and entrance to 109 East Palace in Santa Fe, 1958. Middle left: Manhattan Project workers move a highly radioactive source of lanthanum, used in early tests of the atomic bomb, ca. 1945. Bottom left: Members of the Santa Fe USO Club board a bus headed for Los Alamos in 1948.
109 East Palace Santa Fe, about 35 miles southeast of Los Alamos, served as the gateway to the Manhattan Project. Scientists and researchers assigned to work on the Hill usually came to New Mexico by train, alighting at the Lamy station, from which a driver took them to Santa Fe. Actually, “delivered them directly to Santa Fe” is probably a more accurate way of putting it, as both human and matériel resources were closely tracked. The new arrivals’ first destination was an office at 109 East Palace Avenue in Sena Plaza, a location that is now part of The Rainbow Man store. (The original office has been recreated in a permanent exhibit at the New Mexico History Museum.) This office was the realm of Dorothy McKibbin, an efficient and genial widow in her mid-40s who greeted new personnel, provided them with identification papers, and set up their transportation to Los Alamos by bus or car. She also cautioned the newcomers to stay mum about their work—a high-desert equivalent of “loose lips sink ships.” All of this must have been a strange adventure for the scientists’ spouses and children, who had little idea why they’d been packed off to a godforsaken settlement in the remote Southwest. McKibbin, who was 10 to 20 years older than most of the Project participants and their wives, was by all accounts a welcoming and comforting presence. Like many visitors in the first half of the 20th century, McKibbin originally came to Santa Fe to recover from tuberculosis at Sunmount Sanitarium. It was 1925—right about the time Oppenheimer was first renting his Pecos cabin—and she was 27. McKibbin and Oppenheimer first met at La Fonda on the Plaza, where Oppenheimer and other scientists often gathered during the Project. They became friends, and at Oppenheimer’s recommendation McKibbin was appointed to her job in March of 1943. As a longtime resident, McKibbin fit right into the Santa Fe scene, but the security men provided by the Army did anything but. She once recalled: “You could always spot a G-2 man—they wore snap-brimmed hats, straw in summer, felt in winter. And they were the only men in Santa Fe dressed in three-piece suits continued on page 60 and wing-tip shoes.” february/march 2012
stealing fire a por t rait g alle r y by David Robi n i nt roduction by Ma r y Anne Re ddi ng
Since moving to Santa Fe from New York four years ago, award-winning commercial and fine-art photographer David Robin has developed an interest in Los Alamos National Laboratories and the men and women who have worked there. On these pages he presents black-and-white portraits of five Santa Fe–based scientists who spent important parts of their careers “on the hill.” The quotes that accompany each image were collected by Robin and Mary Anne Redding, chair of the photography department at Santa Fe University of Art and Design, who interviewed the scientists about their time living and working at Los Alamos and how the experience shaped their lives. In 1943, an isolated site on the Pajarito Plateau was selected for the Manhattan Project, in which components of the atomic bomb were developed and tested in extreme secrecy. For the Pueblo people who lived in the remote landscape some 30 miles from Santa Fe, the mesas, mountains, and canyons they had inhabited for thousands of years were sacred. This land was respected as a fire site—a place of change where the energies of life that emerged from mother earth were visible in the volcanic undulations of the landscape. Newly arrived in an environment they did not fully understand, the scientists and U.S. Army personnel brought their own desires for unleashing unseen energies of the cosmos, superimposing their own rituals for controlling the secrets of nature on the landscape. Everyone was intent on stealing fire from the skies.—Mary Anne Redding
DARRAGH NAGLE, Ph.D. Age: 92 Physicist at Los Alamos National Laboratories 1942–1945 and 1956–1998; worked closely with Enrico Fermi at Columbia University, the University of Chicago, and Los Alamos. On his early days in Los Alamos and stopping at the popular teahouse, run by Edith Warner, on the road between Santa Fe and Los Alamos: “For fun we went skiing and we went hiking and occasionally we would go down to Santa Fe. But somehow I never got a bite of Edith’s chocolate cake.”
carol storms, Ph.D. Age: 54 Palladium specialist at Los Alamos National Laboratories 1978–1980 and 1984; now designing beaded jewelry. Carol is married to Edmund Storms (opposite page), whom she met while both were working at the labs. On her varied talents and interests: “To me, science is the thing that lets you live, and art is the thing that makes it worthwhile.”
Edmund storms, Ph.D. Age: 80 Radiochemist at Los Alamos National Laboratories 1955–1991; now working on cold fusion. Edmund is married to Carol Storms (opposite page), whom he met while both were working at the labs. On what he’s learned about government, business, and academia over the years: “All organizations suffer somewhat the same problems—it’s just how well they solve them that determines their success in the future.”
William Keller, Ph.D. Age: 87 Physicist at Los Alamos National Laboratories 1950–1988; now a member of the board of directors for the Santa Fe Science Initiative. On the sense of community in 1950s Los Alamos: “Certainly everybody up there was there without any other relatives, so we had to be friendly with each other. It was a cooperative situation. All of our entertainment was self-produced. There was a little theater, a little opera, a little orchestra, and, of course, a ski area—we made it. I made a lot of good friends.”
james bradbury, Ph.D. Age: 76 Physicist at Los Alamos National Laboratories 1976–1993; now working on nuclear nonproliferation. Bradbury grew up in Los Alamos, where his father, Norris Bradbury, succeeded J. Robert Oppenheimer as scientific director at the labs. On growing up in Los Alamos, among some of the greatest scientific minds in the world: “Even as a kid, it led me into thinking about the beauty of science—and how science depends upon trans-boundary communication and the freedom to criticize and object and realize different perspectives. In some ways, the scientific paradigm would be very great if we could put it into governance or politics, but it doesn’t happen that way. They’re very different disciplines.”
the light Since the early 20th century, when Ansel Adams and Edward Weston carried their cameras to Northern New Mexico, the region has inspired fine-art photographers with its dramatic landscapes, impossibly blue skies, and warm, golden, almost magical light. Today’s photographers use new equipment and techniques, but, as seen on the following pages, they’re still striving to capture the spirit of the area.
Rio Chama from the Overlook, Late Afternoon Light, near Abiquiú, New Mexico, 1997, gelatin silver print, edition of 200, 14 x 19", Gerald Peters Gallery, gpgallery.com
"The illumination of the golden autumn trees, the curve of the meandering river, the dramatic shadows cast across the landscape—all combine to reveal a scene that is both momentous and powerful."—Craig Varjabedian
Galisteo, October 2007, ultrachrome print, 12 x 18", Teresa Neptune Studio/Gallery, teresaneptune.com
Sky Chasm, 2009, infrared digital image, 13 x 19", philipmetcalf.com
The Sea of Cars Means that the Proprietor of La Fonda Is Having Success with His Establishment at the End of the Old Santa Fe Trail, 1952, vintage gelatin silver print, 12 x 9", Monroe Gallery of Photography, monroegallery.com
Golondrinas, NM–Buffalo, chromogenic print, 2010, edition of five, 20 x 74", Beals & Abbate Fine Art, bealsandabbate.com
"Climbing the formations to gain a vantage point, one almost feels like they're walking along the spine of an ancient creature. This particular wash— all jumbled up in some kind of ordered chaos—made me think of melting layers of Neapolitan ice cream, and how different this place will be in a blink of geologic time." —Amadeus Leitner
Bisti Coal Wash, 2010, archival pigment print, 24 x 36", amadeusleitner.com
Sacred Friends, 2009, archival C-Print, edition of 100, 8 x 10", New Concept Gallery, newconceptgallery.com
Jack Parsons Joseph Martinez's 1956 Chevy Pickup, 1995, C-Print, dimensions variable, jackparsonsdigital.com
Cerro de la Cruz, 2007, archival ink-jet digital print, 3 x 4', robertreck.com
"I was drawn to the subject [of lowrider art] not only because of the beauty of the cars and trucks but also because of the immense amount of work that was put into each vehicle. . . . And, historically, it always seemed to be a continuation of the Spanish love of horses and the adornment lavished on them by their proud owners."—Jack Parsons
Pojoaque River Meets the Rio Grande, 2010, digital image, dimensions variable, nadelbachphoto.com
Reflection #3, 2012, archival pigment print, 11 x 14", Vivo Contemporary, vivocontemporary.com
Changing Aspen Leaves in the Fall, Santa Fe Ski Basin, 2010, digital image, 20 x 16"
Tesuque Meadow Moment, 2010, digital image, dimensions variable, cmccarthynow.com february/march 2012
"I am drawn to the rainy season with its amazing patterns of light and cloud forms evolving, moving, changing. The dynamics of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains create a theatrical continuum of incredible dimension."—David H. Gibson
Storm Cloud Over Black Mesa, 2004, gelatin silver print, edition of 10, 32 x 40", Verve Gallery of Photography, vervegallery.com
David H. Gibson
Storm Light Patterns, Rio Hondo Mesa, New Mexico, 1995, gelatin silver print, edition of 48, 9 x 23", Photo-Eye Gallery, photoeye.com
Free Spirits, 2008, digital image on archival paper, 18 x 26", Manitou Galleries, manitougalleries.com 36
Bench in Snow Below Kitchen Mesa, Ghost Ranch, 1990, gelatin silver print, 10 x 13", Scheinbaum & Russek Ltd., photographydealers.com
Copyright 1990, Amon Carter Museum, Forth Worth, Texas, Bequest of Eliot Porter, Courtesy of Scheinbaum & Russek Ltd.; Janet Russek 2012, Courtesy of Scheinbaum & Russek Ltd., Santa Fe, NM and Verve Gallery of Photography; willmac designs
Horse Skull, Georgia O’Keeffe’s House, Abiquiú, New Mexico, 1952, gelatin silver print, 10 x 8", Scheinbaum & Russek Ltd., photographydealers.com
Winter Blues, 2011, digital image, dimensions variable, julienmcroberts.com
Mesa Yoga, 2011, digital image, dimensions variable, willmacdesigns.com february/march 2012
ope n i n g s | r e v i e w s | p e o p l e
Santa Fe artist Dominique Boisjoli’s new series of paintings called Red Hot, Ocean Blue, which is showing at her gallery Dominique Boisjoli Fine Art (February 20–March 2, reception February 24, 5–8 pm, 621 Canyon, dominiqueboisjoli.com), depicts floral and landscape abstractions in bleeding red and blue hues. Decorative, expressionistic compositions are accented with thin gestural slits and drips of paint conveying the “happiness and freedom” the artist found during the act of painting her large acrylics.—Elizabeth Lake Dominique Boisjoli, Infinitely Delicious, acrylic on canvas, 60 x 48"
Dominique Boisjoli, Title of Artwork,medium, x 00" february/march00 2012 santa
going behind the lens at the Santa Fe Photographic Workshops by Eve Tolpa
Fred Roberts has published three books of photography, been represented by numerous galleries worldwide, and shown at the Museum of Photographic Arts in San Diego and the Rubin Museum of Art in New York. This past April, he was named “Best Foreign Photographer for India” by the Indian Government, which marked the first time an American had ever won that prestigious award. An investment banker-turned-photographer, the Los Angeles– based Roberts attributes his success to the Santa Fe Photographic Workshops (SFPW), which offer year-round, week-long courses at all levels. The program, he says, “began my life in photography. I started in August 2000 with a beginner’s class, then took nine more workshops. Everything I know about and have accomplished in photography, I credit to my experiences at The Workshops.” Director Reid Callanan started the program in 1990 after living in Maine, where he developed his skills as a photographer and administrator at the Maine Photographic Workshops. Along with a group of colleagues (including Santa Fean photographer Douglas Merriam), Callanan eventually brought those skills to the high desert. “Santa Fe is a big thing—being located here. I think it’s the reason we’ve been so successful,” he says, referring to the area’s photographic legacy and artistic population, as well as its legendary light and landscape. Another reason The Workshops have been so successful is the program’s campus on the Immaculate Heart of Mary Retreat and Conference Center. “It’s no mistake that we’re located in a retreat center,” Callanan notes. “You have to remove yourself from everyday life to immerse yourself in this photographic culture.” But the real key to SFPW’s popularity and longevity is its high-caliber instructors, all of whom are working professional
Courses at the Santa Fe Photographic Workshops accommodate all levels of aspiring shooters—from amateur to professional—and focus on subjects like nature, landscape, and portraiture, as well as procedural topics like how to process and print your photos. The Workshops’ Around the World series takes students to places like Cuba, Burma, and Death Valley, California.
photographers. “They’re the most talented, influential people I can find,” Callanan says. Primarily freelancers who shoot for magazines like National Geographic, Vanity Fair, and Details, instructors come to Santa Fe from all over the country (and occasionally the world) to spend a week imparting their knowledge to a class of 12 to 14 participants. “Jay Maisel, Paul Elledge, Leasha Overturf, Norman Mauskopf, Carlan Tapp . . . I can list an incredible assortment of photographers whose workshops and influence helped shape me as a photographer,” says Jennifer Spelman, who specializes in portraiture and has been an SFPW participant, employee, and instructor.
Opposite page, clockwise from top right: Michael Karsh, Jake Rutherford, Eric Unger, Will Van Beckum. This page, from top: Will Van Beckum, Brandon Johnson, Will Van Beckum.
“It’s a heady experience to put aside all other distractions in life and simply embrace the art of making images,” says instructor Jennifer Spelman. The majority of workshop participants, Callanan says, are from Texas, California, and New York, with a “small but significant number” of people coming from countries like Brazil, Singapore, Australia, and Japan. Almost three-quarters of participants identify themselves as “advanced amateurs,” and more than half are between the ages of 40 and 64. This diversity creates what Callanan describes as “the synergy and energy that happens between people with a common interest,” adding that “the conversations are dynamic, and young people interact with people in their 70s.” Although SFPW offers 180 classes yearround, it has three main “seasons”—spring, summer (its biggest), and fall—during which on-campus lodging is available. In addition, SFPW produces workshops around the world in collaboration with National Geographic and participates in People-to-People Educational Exchanges in Cuba. Whatever the topic and wherever the location, it’s SFPW’s intense focus that keeps people engaged. “It’s a heady experience to put aside all other distractions in life and simply embrace the art of making images,” says Spelman. “I keep waiting for the magic of the place to wear thin, but after being involved with some 60-plus workshops, I still finish each week there with a renewed commitment to making images true to my own vision.” february/march 2012
I Know What Love Is Canyon Road Contemporary Art 403 Canyon, crcainc.com February 10–19, reception February 10, 5–7 pm Fifteen artists present oils and acrylic icons synonymous with love and light on canvas in this Valentine-themed and -timed exhibition. Tanner Lawley’s drip-splattered neon hearts reminiscent of early 1980s pop culture and painterly Ab-Ex-inspired, broad-stroked floating hearts are the focal point of the collection.—EL
Tanner Lawley, Together In Love III, Diptych, acrylic on canvas, 40 x 60 x 2"
Do Process, Verve Gallery, 219 E Marcy, vervegallery.com February 17–April 14, reception February 24, 5–7 pm This group show offers a look at the creative and often arduous steps involved with art making, from conception to outcome. Featuring the works of Brigitte Carnochan, Cy DeCosse, Joy Goldkind, Jennifer Schlesinger, Henrieke Strecker, Kamil Vojnar, and Maggie Taylor, showcased practices and mediums include digital composting and mixed media, as well as gelatin silver prints, gum dichromates, bromoils, photogravures, and albumen prints.—EL
Jennifer Schlesinger, Here nor There 8, selenium toned, handcoated albumen print, 8 x 4"
Anthony Abbate: Juicy Fruit Beals & Abbate Fine Art, 713 Canyon bealsandabbate.com February 21–March 5 reception February 24, 5–8 pm Anthony Abbate’s newest photographic series of ink renderings of fruit are electric in their juxtaposition of color and texture detail. Subtle conductors of energy, the artist’s images hover behind a wall of translucent resin—hermetically sealed specimens never to rot, always vibrant. The manipulated inversion of Abbate’s subjects’ color palette tips the hat to Warhol’s silkscreens and turns the traditional still life on its head.—EL 42
Interlopers Evoke Contemporary, 130 Lincoln evokecontemporary.com March 2–31, reception March 2, 5–7 pm Work on paper, that sometimes-overlooked medium, takes the stage in a venue primarily known for painting and sculpture. Displaying a range of materials and varying degrees of technical draftsmanship, 22 artists—many of them first-time exhibitors—provoke the viewer with unsettling subject matter. Cases in point: William Harrison’s intricately rendered, matterof-fact biker dudes and Pamela Wilson’s daring, white-gloved ingenue. —Eve Tolpa
Pamela Wilson, Of Small Humiliations 2, pencil on paper, 30 x 22"
Anthony Abbate, Tuti Fruti Sur la Glace, ink on rag, dimesions variable
Time-Lapse, SITE Santa Fe 1606 Paseo de Peralta sitesantafe.org February 18–May 20 reception February 17, 5–7 pm SITE explores the nature of time with an exhibition where pieces change frequently, resulting in a show that is different each day. Highlights include Mary Temple’s Currency, a daily, current events–based drawing journal in progress since 2007, and Byron Kim’s Sunday Painting, an ongoing project wherein the artist paints the sky each week from wherever in the world he finds himself. —ET
Vivian Maier, Woman in front of NY Public Library, ca. 1950, gelatin silver print, 11 x 14" Byron Kim, Sunday Painting, acrylic and gouache on panel, 14 x 14"
Vivian Maier: Discovered Monroe Gallery, 112 Don Gaspar monroegallery.com February 3–April 22, reception February 3, 5–7 pm Monroe presents a posthumously released cache of stunning images by travel and street photographer Vivian Maier, who died in 2009. Maier had no formal training, often went by a pseudonym, and was relatively unknown in her lifetime, but the 3,000 prints she amassed over her career cannily (and, now, to great acclaim) chronicle the urgency of city life in the 1950s, ’60s, and ’70s. —ET
Katarina Howarth, Red Chair, oil on canvas, 18 x 24"
Katarina Howarth: Joyful Abundance Alexandra Stevens Gallery of Fine Art, 820 Canyon alexandrastevens.com February 10–29, reception February 17, 5–7 pm For those with a sweet tooth, Howarth’s exhibition of 20 cheerful oils is a real treat. Painted with a flat perspective and candy-colored palette, her glowing, stained-glass-like still lifes, landscapes, and home interiors undulate on the canvas. The decorative vignettes are inspired by the artist’s family life in Embudo and Galveston Bay, Texas.—EL Chris Morel, Aspens, oil on canvas, 30 x 24"
Chris Morel: Gallery Featured Artist for February, Nedra Matteucci Galleries, 1075 Paseo de Peralta matteucci.com, February 4–February 28, reception February 4, noon–4 pm Maryland native Chris Morel came to New Mexico via Texas, where he worked for many years as an illustrator for the Texas Park and Wildlife Department. Now a plein-air painter, he vividly conveys the serene landscape, light, and architecture of the high desert. Morel’s work has been shown at prominent Western institutions, including the Albuquerque Museum and Tulsa’s Gilcrease Museum. —ET february/march 2012
Eric Bibb & Guy Davis A Blues Pilgrimage
Thom Ross, Crazy Arrow, acrylic on canvas, 62 x 86"
Thom Ross + Tara Roberts: Brilliant Colors: Contemporary Southwestern Due West Gallery, 217 W San Francisco duewestgallery.com February 17–March 18, reception February 18, 5:30–7:30 pm Local ceramicist Tara Roberts has been recognized by the National Museum of Women in the Arts for her colorful take on Native-inspired themes. Here, her work provides a three-dimensional complement to Thom Ross’s rhythmic acrylic-on-canvas pieces. With graphic boldness, Ross aims to reinterpret the history and memory of the West—both as it was and as it was mythologized. —ET
Grammy nominee Eric Bibb & actor and musician Guy Davis join their blues lineages in a pilgrimage to ﬁnd and preserve the mystical center of the blues in today’s world. Eric Bibb is “Smooth, subtle, soulful & sophisticated ... his is a beautiful take on classic, coolly laid back acoustic blues.” –Time Out
February 10, 7 pm $15–$30
Morris Blackburn, Adobe Mission (Ranchos de Taos Church), 1962, screen print from an edition of 30, 10 x 14"
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Missions + Moradas of New Mexico, William R. Talbot Fine Art 129 W San Francisco, williamtalbot.com, March 23–April 28 Talbot Fine Art’s annual Easter exhibition showcases multiple interpretations of New Mexico’s moradas and missions in various genres and media. As Georgia O’Keeffe once remarked of the well-represented Rancho de Taos Church, depicted here in a screen print by Morris Blackburn, “Most artists who spend any time in Taos have to paint it, I suppose, just as they have to paint a self-portrait.” —ET
PREVIEWS Robert Highsmith: Winter Watercolors Marigold Arts, 424 Canyon marigoldarts.com February 3–March 16 reception February 3, 5–8 pm Robert Highsmith’s new, solo exhibition of watercolor paintings follows in the footsteps of his signature work by shining light on the Southwest’s stark beauty. A recipient of the 2011 Governor’s Award for Excellence in the Arts, his “winter watercolors” focus on Lake Powell and the dreamlike quality of waterscapes during times of local drought. The artist’s classic works—aerial views representing New Mexico’s diversity, from farmlands and rivers to railroad scenes and architecture—are also on display.—Samantha Schwirck
Robert Highsmith, Lake Powell Cliffs, watercolor, 22 x 30"
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gallery ART SHOWCASE
Pippin Contemporary Aleta Pippin, Along the Great Divide, acrylic on canvas, 48 x 48 x 2.5"
Aleta Pippin’s paintings are all about color. Interpretations of the music she’s listening to while painting, her work evolves into energetic, joyful exclamations. Pippin resonates with the healing power of color. Just as music has the power to evoke emotion, color has the same power. To view more of Pippin’s work, visit us at: 125 Lincoln, Suite 114, 505-795-7476, pippincontemporary.com
Mark White Fine Art POP Gallery Thomas Barbey, Icy Studs, silver gelatin limited edition photograph
Celebrating our fifth anniversary in 2012, POP Gallery features contemporary and new-brow established and emerging artists from around the world. Our vision is rooted in providing art lovers with a thought-provoking alternative. Rising from the underground world of tattooing and graffiti, comics, cartoons, pop art, illustration, and surrealist art, the art showcased feeds off the blend of influences and energies well cemented in today’s culture. In essence, POP Gallery represents a celebration of mediums and ideas, the dynamic union between independence and spirit, the emergence of subculture on a contemporary platform. Visit us at our new location in the GALA Arts District at the corner of Lincoln and Marcy. 142 Lincoln, Suite 102, 505-820-0788, popsantafe.com
Join us here in Mark’s calming, meditative, kinetic garden to experience bliss. These wind-driven sculptures welcome you through to his gallery. Inside, you will find his exquisitely patinaed, engraved metal canvases and bronzes. We look forward to your visit. 414 Canyon, 505-982-2073, markwhitefineart.com
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Nedra Matteucci Galleries Chris Morel, Back Alley, 2011, oil on canvas, 30 x 40”
Extending the gallery tradition for featuring the finest in contemporary and historical art of the Southwest, oil landscape paintings of Northern New Mexico by artist Chris Morel will be on special exhibit throughout February 2012. Morel’s compositions faithfully capture the vistas and character that are unique to New Mexico with vibrant and confident brushwork. Each new canvas inspires like a deep breath of fresh air and the exhibition should not be missed! 1075 Paseo de Peralta, 505-982-4631, matteucci.com
Pablo Milan Gallery Pablo Milan, Spirit Sojourn, acrylic on canvas 48 x 24"
Pablo Milan captures the colors of his Southwest heritage in bold and mystical contemporary paintings. Milan is renowned for his use of color and painting techniques, which include loose brushstrokes, washes, splatters and, at times, heavy texture. 209 Galisteo Street, 505-820-1285, pablomilangallery.com
Alexandra Stevens Gallery Invitation piece, The Morning Dance, oil on canvas, 30 x 40"
Joyful Abundance: a one-woman show for Katrina Howarth. Artist’s reception Friday, February 17, 5–7:30 pm. New works will be available for showing in the gallery beginning Friday, February 10 through Wednesday, February 29. The show features fanciful still lifes, quaint villages, colorful interiors, and whimsical landscapes—smiles of a young woman painting from the joy and experience of her life. Our show’s featured painting, The Morning Dance, was inspired by the Nutcracker ballet, which Katrina hears as her girls dance; the kitchen looks like this after breakfast—three bowls . . . three daughters. 820 Canyon, 505-988-1311, alexandrastevens.com
The Frank Howell Gallery THE FRANK HOWELL GALLERY HAS MOVED! The Frank Howell Gallery has been offering timeless art for more than 25 years. Come see us in our new location. Grand Opening February 11, 12–7 pm, to benefit the Española Valley Humane Society. 203 Canyon Road, 505-984-1074, frankhowellgallery.com february/march 2012
Exquisite Santa fe Homes
a Peerless canyon roaD comPounD
Recently Featured in Architectural Digest
1243 Canyon road
• Exquisitely remodeled 4-bedroom main house & 2-bedroom guest house • A blend of Santa Fe Style and European Elegance – tons of character • Lush, verdant mature landscaping with numerous entertaining areas • Outdoor pool, spa and ramada • Spectacular east, west and north mountain and river views • 6br, 7ba, 8227 sq.ft., 1.772 acres SantaFeProperties.com/201105058 $5,000,000
Marilyn Foss (505) 231-2500 Kevin Bobolsky (505) 470-6263
Quintessential santa Fe estate ProPerty
ranCho de JaConita
• Large compound on approx. 37 tranquil acres • There is an approx. 7000 sq.ft. triple-adobe main house • Also featured an approx. 4000 +/- sq.ft. 3-bd, 3-ba guest house • Two separate guest casitas, workshop, pool, Sangre Views • Two pre-moritrium wells, water and acequia rights • 7 br, 10 ba, 11000 sq.ft., 4-car garage SantaFeProperties.com/201000703 $5,000,000
Dermot Monks (505) 470-0639
silver mesa suBDivision in las camPanas
Celebrating 25 years as santa Fe’s true “hometown” brokerage Santa Fe Properties is - and always has been - locally-owned and locally-managed by fourth generation Santa Feans! We pride ourselves on our longterm commitment to serving the community of Santa Fe, and our commitment to work with local businesses that support our community.
• One of the oldest eastside properties, originally built in the 1700’s • Once owned by Society of NM Painters co-founder, Frank Applegate • Plastered, elevated ‘shepherd’s bed’ now part of the master suite • Traditional pine floors with radiant heat beneath • Traditional ‘placita’ enclosed courtyard with extensive landscaping • 6 br, 7 ba, 10,180 sq.ft., 5-car garage, 1.74 acres SantaFeProperties.com/807961 $3,950,000
Deborah Bodelson (505) 660-4442
BeautiFul Home WitH Dramatic Focal Points
6 silver mesa Court lot 7
• Great location across from Fitness and Tennis Center • This home provides an open floor plan with modern kitchen • Tremendous sunset views and views of the 11th hole lake and green • Large covered portal that wraps around the greatroom • New construction, never lived in, built by Roger Hunter • 3 br, 4 ba, 3824 sq.ft., 2-car garage, 2.91 acres SantaFeProperties.com/201104948 $1,350,000
Jim Weyhrauch (505) 660-6032
a livaBle sculPture
We KNOW Santa Fe – We ARE Santa Fe – Come Home to Local! Voted the BEST REAL ESTATE AGENCY in Santa Fe every year since 2006
4 las katrinas
• Elegant spacious home with 360-degree views • Chef’s kitchen with Wolf range, granite and custom cabinets • Solarium, den, four fireplaces, dramatic entryway and staircase • Reclaimed wood beams, wood floors, antique doors • Just 15 minutes northwest of Santa Fe • 2 br, 2 ba, 4000 sq.ft., 2-car garage, 5.02 acres SantaFeProperties.com/201105395 $1,059,000
Val Brier (505) 690-0553 Philip Gudwin (505) 984-7343
7468a old santa Fe trail
• The exquisite LaFountain studio, now transformed into a collector home • Thirteen foot Spanish cathedral doors opening to the great room • Spacious gourmet kitchen with kiva fireplace • Expansive master suite with sitting room and hardwood floors • Interior clay plaster, bio-kinetic wastewater system • 3 br, 3 ba, 3786 sq.ft., gated entry, 1.65 acres SantaFeProperties.com/201105712 $1,100,000
Emily Medvec (505) 660-4541 Ulla Allyn (505) 470-2381
1000 Paseo de Peralta, Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 505.982.4466 • 800.374.2931 SantaFeProperties.com
lifestyle | design | home
Inspired by ancient design principles originating in India more than 10,000 years ago, artist Marguerite Wilson decided to build a house that reflects the ideas—centered on natural flow and directional alignment—inherent in vaastu architecture. Here, Wilson offers an inside look at her custom home and talks about what it’s like to live and work in such a structured yet spiritual space.
vaastu house building in an ancient tradition by Gu s sie Faunt le roy
When the crew MEMBERS constructing fiber artist Marguerite Wilson’s Santa Fe home were informed that all measurements needed to be exact to 1/32nd of an inch, no exceptions—for everything from the concrete footing to window placements to tile work—the natural question for many of them was: Why? The answer goes back about 13,000 years. That was when Maamuni Mayan, a legendary scientist/artist in what is now southern India, is said to have developed vaastu, a system of mathematical formulas and sacred design principles for temple architecture, statuary, music, and dance. In architecture, vaastu principles include aligning a structure with the natural flow of elemental energies and employing precise calculations that correspond with the vibrational resonance of the building’s occupants. The result, according to those who study and practice the science, is a space imbued with serenity and aliveness, contributing to the well-being and peace of those who spend time there. In recent years, vaastu has been revived and promoted by Indian scholar Dr. V. Ganapati Sthapati. Wilson traveled to India to study with Sthapati, and she also took courses on the subject through the American University of Mayonic Science and Technology. But she
Originally used for designing Hindu temples, in recent decades vaastu architecture has seen a revival of interest and an incorporation into modern life. The design of Wilson’s home is based on a perfect grid aligned to true north/south; the center room of the grid (shown here) is called the Brahmasthan. 50
Recurring sets of measurements went into the sizing and placement of all the windows, doors, and shelving units in Wilson’s home, where she both lives and works.
wanted to do more than learn about it—she wanted to experience it. Wilson contacted architect Paula Baker-Laporte, co-owner of EcoNest, a former Santa Fe firm now based in Ashland, Oregon, and Salt Spring Island, British Columbia. Baker-Laporte had also studied vaastu and was excited about designing a home for Wilson based on those principles. “As an architect, the spaces we make shape the people in them, whether we do that consciously or unconsciously. A more conscious way of doing that appeals to me,” she explains. Vaastu calculations involve the owner’s moment of birth and the location and size of the home, among other factors. From there the design is based on a perfect grid aligned to true north/south, with each quadrant corresponding to one of the five elements. The kitchen, for example, is sited in the southeast, for fire, and the meditation room and study is in the water quadrant of the northeast, reflecting water’s sacred quality. The center of the grid is a square room called the Brahmasthan, which in Wilson’s home is topped by a cupola and clerestory windows on all four sides. “The center is the space element, which informs all the other directions,” Wilson notes. “There’s a real sense of clarity to the space.” Building Wilson’s house required carefully communicating why everything needed to be so precise. “It was a fascinating experience,” recalls William Prull, owner of Prull Custom february/march 2012
Each of the quadrants that branch off the Brahmasthan (which is topped by a cupola surrounded by clerestory windows) corresponds to one of the five elements.
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Whimsical Northern New Mexico Straw Bale Home! 46 A Old Road South $565,000
Northern New Mexico master piece has romance and soul plus plenty of room for your lifestyle. For dining and entertaining, the kitchen is unbelievably functional and features a professional six-burner stove top, two ovens and two dishwashers. Auxiliary room for exercise would make a nice library/office too. Cool inviting gardens and significant views. Over-sized heated and finished garage. 4 br, 3 ba, 3089 sq.ft., 2-car garage, 3.41 acres. MLS #201004341 $565,000 Santa Fe Properties
Alan & Anne Vorenberg
One Number Direct 505.954.5515
and/or Toll Free 888.257.6750
(505) 982-4466 SantaFeProperties.com
Contact Georgette Romero (505) 603-1494, firstname.lastname@example.org www.georgette.santafeproperties.com
326 Grant Avenue Santa Fe, NM 87501
Builders. Although initially concerned about adhering to such exacting tolerances when building thick clay/straw walls—an EcoNest method in which a greater percentage of straw provides high insulation values—Prull found his workers rose to the challenge: the 2,100-square-foot timber-frame home was completed in less than a year. Adding to a timeless sense of proportionality in the structure’s appearance, recurring sets of measurements went into the sizing and location of all doors, windows, and built-in shelves. “There’s a sense of symmetry and balance that appealed to me,” Wilson says. No surprise, since much of her art involves quilting. With both quilting and vaastu, Wilson points out, “creation begins with a central square and moves in a clockwise direction. A grid is used to define the space, and measurements are precise.” Three years after moving in, the artist has no doubts about the effectiveness of vaastu in creating a positive-feeling space. “It way exceeds my expectations,” she says, adding that while the energy is subtle, “there’s a peacefulness and vibrancy within the whole house. It energizes me when I’m there.”
“There’s a sense of symmetry and balance in vaastu that appealed to me,” says Marguerite Wilson.
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Exquisite Santa fe Homes
The esTaTe of The Glamorous millicenT roGers
eleGanT hisToric renovaTion
the milliCent rogers estate at la manCha Farms
523 east alameda
• An adobe estate and grounds that recall a bygone era • Center courtyard, pueblo style with charming rooms • Guest house, caretaker’s home and servant’s quarters • 79 acres with three working wells and water rights • Sweeping views of Taos Mountain • 9 br, 8 ba, 78 acres SantaFeProperties.com/201104330 $7,950,000
Val Brier (505) 690-0553 Paul Geoffrey (505) 660-6009
innovaTive norThside conTemporary
• A rare find, in-town and close to the Plaza • Elegant restored historic New Mexico Territorial home • Single-level main house with original hardwood floors • Guesthouse with a living, kitchen area, two bedrooms, two baths • Graceful, beautifully-landscaped gardens with a Bocce court • 5 br, 4 ba, 2356 sq.ft., 0.36 acre SantaFeProperties.com/201002364 $1,795,000
Suzy Eskridge (505) 310-4116
a rare offerinG nesTled in a proTecTive compound
Celebrating 25 years as santa Fe’s true “hometown” brokerage Santa Fe Properties is - and always has been - locally-owned and locally-managed by fourth generation Santa Feans! We pride ourselves on our longterm commitment to serving the community of Santa Fe, and our commitment to work with local businesses that support our community.
1104 mansion ridge
• Sophisticated contemporary close to Downtown • Attached studio & office for potential additional 1-2 bedrooms • Flooded with natural light from walls of glass • Sleek gourmet kitchen/dining/living • Extensive shaded outdoor living • 3 br, 3 ba, 3342 sq.ft., 3-car garage, 1.79 acres SantaFeProperties.com/201100664 $1,295,000
Gavin Sayers (505) 690-3070
home of renowned sinGer vic damone!
97 avenida de las Casas
• A tasteful home, next to the famed Santa Fe Opera • A very special home of fine clean design, great views, taste and setting • Separated bedrooms suites provide privacy and each with its own patio • A country gourmet kitchen den with fireplace is a natural gathering place • No steps in the home, and the master suite is simply perfect • 2 br, 3 ba, 3245 sq.ft., 2-car garage, 0.18 acre SantaFeProperties.com/201100651 $1,295,000
David Woodard (505) 920-2000
fly fishinG paradise!
We KNOW Santa Fe – We ARE Santa Fe – Come Home to Local! Voted the BEST REAL ESTATE AGENCY in Santa Fe every year since 2006
• Exceptional Sangre de Cristo Mountain views • Generous living and dining area, plus six fireplaces • Gourmet kitchen with spacious island and Viking appliances • Attached guest casita with its own living area, kitchen and fireplace • Two fabulous manicured outdoor areas with portals and fountains • 4 br, 3.5 ba, 4144 sq.ft., 2-car garage, 1.56 acres SantaFeProperties.com/201104892 $1,100,000
Tim Galvin (505) 795-5990
21 tres lagunas
• Rustic cabin was built from logs salvaged from the Great Salt Lake • Large deck overlooking the largest pond at Tres Lagunas • Stunning mountain views, evergreens and mountain breezes • Wide-plank floors, river rock fireplace, large picture windows • Three stocked ponds and miles of river frontage at Tres Lagunas • 2 br, 2 ba, 1400 sq.ft. SantaFeProperties.com/201103233 $975,000
Michael Morgner (505) 670-0319
1000 Paseo de Peralta, Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 505.982.4466 • 800.374.2931 SantaFeProperties.com
whoo’s your daddy?
If you thought the fatty sweet goodness of donuts could not be improved upon, how about adding a salty touch and topping the deep-fried delights with crispy candied bacon? That’s exactly what the folks at Whoo’s Donuts have done. In fact, they’ve taken the same ingenuity they use to seduce Santa Feans at their other venture, The Chocolate Smith (right next door), and applied it to everything on offer. At Whoo’s, ordinary fried cakes are transformed into gourmet goodies such as the s’mores donut with marshmallow buttercream and graham cracker dusting (pictured), the pineapple upside-down donut with candied pineapple and a cherry, and the pistachio cake donut with white chocolate lemon ganache, to name just a few. Flavors are seasonally inspired, with mostly local and organic ingredients used in the magic. The memory of Krispy Kreme fades to the past. —John Vollertsen Whoo’s Donuts, 851-B Cerrillos, 505-629-1678, Monday–Friday 6 am–4 pm, Saturday and Sunday 6 am–3 pm
chef Joseph Wrede’s cuisine reigns at the reinvented Palace
In this age of instant celebrity, when one can achieve acclaim without really doing anything of cultural worth, the value of fame seems to have been dumbeddown and cheapened. And although chefs, too, have moved out of the kitchen and into the spotlight, their talent cannot be faked; the proof is on the plate. Joseph Wrede, executive chef of the recently reopened Palace Restaurant and Saloon, has both the credentials and the skills to claim his day in the sun. The former owner/chef of Taos’s highly regarded Joseph’s Table, Wrede was named one of America’s top 10 chefs by Food & Wine magazine in 2000. Joseph’s Table’s renown put both Wrede and Taos on the culinary map; his fan base was, and is, a loyal and enthusiastic one. Weathering the unpredictable economy, however, proved a challenge for even the most brilliant of chefs, and, despite its reputation, Joseph’s Table closed in May of last Wrede’s stacked green-chile enchilada features local squash, kale, and wild mushrooms.
year. Aficionados—who made the journey from Santa Fe to dine on duck-fat fries and sashimi on fried kale—were heartbroken. Wrede flirted with the idea of leaving New Mexico but, luckily for us, an exciting new local venture captured his attention and lured him south. The renovation of the historic, decadesold Palace Restaurant was orchestrated by entrepreneur David Bigby, who was smart to include a chef with Wrede’s clout in the mix. The redo took longer than expected, but when the doors finally opened early last fall the town’s foodies were ripe with anticipation. There were a few bumps at first: the joint’s lively acoustics made for elevated levels of conversation not quite to everyone’s taste, for example. That problem since solved (and with the staff purring like a well-oiled machine), winter at The Palace is a calmer, statelier affair. The decor in both the bar and dining room lives up to Bigby’s vision of saving a landmark, the red flocked-velvet wallpaper making a dramatic statement as you push through the swinging doors. A sprawling vintage couch culled right out of an old western recalls The Palace’s glorious past, when it was both brothel and saloon. The bar is designed to be convivial, with subdued lighting and close tables, and its menu is worth sampling during a night on the town or before moving to the main room for dinner. There’s a full bar with beers on tap and a developing wine list that includes some intriguing choices and many old favorites (Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc is mine). Wrede describes his menu as Italiangrounded, but diners looking for veal marsala and spaghetti and meatballs will need to shift gears, as Wrede uses America’s melting pot as his palette with broad stokes of Italian flavor employed here and there. The large list of options has something to please everyone; Wrede’s old fans will be delighted while he certainly garners new ones. Happily, the kale and duck fries are back. From the selection of starters, the dishes that grabbed us included a traditional Caesar salad that gets a chop and a draping of tender beef carpaccio (clever Italiano pairing). A layered
by John Vollertsen
At the historic Palace Restaurant, everything old is new again. Hawaiian tuna tartare is stacked with radish, kiwi, mango, and crispy avocado, a ginger soy vinaigrette bringing all the tropical elements deliciously together, and the requisite seared foie gras is tricked-up New Mexico style with piñon mole and white-chocolate dust. The ratatouille is a rich vegetable medley of squashes, leeks, and kale served with a warm tomato vinaigrette; vegetarians will love it as I did. When it comes to main courses, the yellow-curry lamb tagine is sure to wow both Moroccans and East Indians, while porcini mushrooms are turned into a powder and are used to dust scallops before searing and saucing with a luscious cognac, tomato, cream sauce Americaine. The beef tenderloin gets a horseradish sauce and double carb-load (sweet potato mash and stacked buttermilk onion rings), while Wrede’s squash and wild-mushroom enchiladas with house-made tortillas and green chile sauce show off his firm grasp on Norteño cookery. Pasta devotees should ask for the saloon menu and sample both the classic carbonara and bolognese sauces, each hearty for cold-weather noshing. Crunchy polenta fries are tossed with charred radicchio and decadent gorgonzola sauce. The nifty lamb cigars with curry ketchup are addictive, while the greenchile cheese “smash” burger, done panini-style, is my favorite in town. Both are available on the terrific lunch menu as well. When it comes to dessert, I don’t know of a more perfect carrot cake served locally (it’s impossibly moist); the chocolate torte sports a rich ganache icing, and there are multiple ice creams and sorbets to choose from. If the Nutella version is offered, get it. The Palace and Joseph Wrede make for an iconic pairing (in reality TV terms, think of it as “Dining with the Stars”).To coin a phrase, “everything old is new again.”—JV
For dessert: rich, dense port-wine chocolate gateau. Below, left to right: The Palace’s elegant dining room, Chef Joseph Wrede.
The Palace Restaurant and Saloon, 142 W Palace, 505-428-0690
Virginia Woolf once said, “One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well.” I couldn’t agree with her more. Food and love are intrinsically woven together in our culture, and particularly so around Valentine’s Day. Chocolate apart, I can think of other delicious ways to woo a lover or spoil a friend during this time of year, and Santa Fe’s wonderful restaurants are cupid central. If you like it spicy, the lamb vindaloo at Raaga will get your lover’s heart palpitating. There’s nothing more sensual than getting those endorphins fired up with a blazing curry, and Chef Paddy Rawal sure knows how to handle the heat. If you’re really brave, the level two green chile at Horseman’s Haven will send you both into orbit; just make sure to rinse your mouth (preferably with a tart margarita) before the necking begins. Location has a lot to do with one’s ability to seduce, and my favorite romantic setting is 315 Wine Bar & Restaurant. Small, cozy rooms, lacey curtains, attentive service, and classic French food make this the perfect date stop. (The award-winning wine list doesn’t hurt either.) I’d co-slurp a bowl of the onion soup, share a roasted beet and goat cheese salad, and order two rare steak frites with sauce bernaise plus splash out on a fancy red Bordeaux. Perfection. If your date is a foodie, take him or her to Coyote Café, Geronimo, The Palace, or The Compound. If you think accommodation might be needed later, request a banquette seat at the Inn and Spa at Loretto’s Luminaria or drive 10 minutes out of town to Encantado resort and sample Charles Dale’s goodies at Terra. And “get a room.” Traditionalists can get their chocolate fix at The Chocolate Smith and Todos Santos. Single? No problem! Take your favorite person in the world out, and if you happen to be your favorite person, well, that works too. Love makes the (culinary) world go ’round!—JV
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taste of the town
n o r t h e r n n e w m e x i c o ’ s f i n e st d i n i ng e x p e r i e nc e s Anasazi Restaurant & Bar 113 Washington, 505-988-3030 innoftheanasazi.com New Mexico’s most lauded restaurant and bar celebrates the enduring creative spirit of the region’s Native Americans. Located in the heart of Santa Fe, the Forbes four-star hotel, restaurant, and bar is an elegant expression of Southwestern style. Come savor the rich, earthy flavors of creative American cuisine infused with fresh, seasonal, and regional ingredients. Alfresco dining available spring, summer, and fall, weather permitting. Special patio menu offered with full bar and wine menus. Private dining also available upon request.
The Bull Ring 150 Washington, 505-983-3328 santafebullring.com Serving Santa Fe since 1971, the legendary Bull Ring is “the prime” steakhouse in Santa Fe. Voted “Best of Santa Fe” year after year, it also offers fresh seafood, chicken, chops, an extensive wine list, a saloon menu, and patio dining. If there’s one thing New Mexico’s politicians can agree on, it’s where to eat in Santa Fe. Conveniently located one block north of the Plaza in the courtyard of the New Mexico Bank & Trust building. For a quick bite after a stroll at the nearby Plaza— or for a late-night snack—the lounge’s bar menu is sure to satisfy. Lunch Tuesday–Friday 11:30 am–2:30 pm; dinner nightly starting at 5 pm. Patio seating. Also Spanish guitar music Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights. Underground parking available on Washington.
Chocolate Maven Bakery 821 W San Mateo, Suite C 505-982-4400, chocolatemaven.com A long-standing local favorite, Chocolate Maven does it all: breakfast, lunch, dinner, high tea, brunch, and every type of pastry, cookie, and cake imaginable! We create delicious, eclectic menus using local, organic produce, meats, and cheeses, helping to support local farmers while bringing you the freshest, most flavorful food possible. Don’t miss this hidden gem on your next visit to Santa Fe. Open seven days a week. Dinner Tuesday–Saturday 5–8:30 pm; breakfast and lunch Monday–Friday 7 am–3 pm; high tea Monday–Saturday 3–5 pm; brunch Saturday and Sunday 9 am–3 pm.
The Compound Restaurant 653 Canyon, 505-982-4353 compoundrestaurant.com Recognized by Gourmet magazine’s Guide to America’s Best Restaurants and The New York Times as a destination not to be missed. Chef/Owner Mark Kiffin, the James Beard Foundation’s “Best Chef of the Southwest,” pairs seasonal contemporary American
cuisine with professional service in a timeless, elegant adobe building designed by famed architect Alexander Girard. Extensive wine list, full bar, picturesque garden patios, a variety of beautiful settings for wedding receptions, social affairs, or corporate events for 12 to 250 guests. Private parking. Seasonal specialty: tuna tartare topped with Osetra caviar and preserved lemon. Lunch Monday–Saturday 12–2 pm; bar nightly 5 pm– close; dinner nightly from 6 pm; full lunch and dinner menus available in the bar.
Doc Martin’s at the Historic Taos Inn 125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos 575-758-1977, taosinn.com Doc Martin’s restaurant is an acclaimed fine-dining establishment located in a registered historic landmark. Doc’s is a true Taos tradition, earning multiple awards. Executive Chef Zippy White specializes in organic foods, with chile rellenos being his signature dish. With more than 400 wine selections, our world-class wine list has earned Wine Spectator’s “Best of” award of excellence for 21 consecutive years. The Adobe Bar features complimentary live entertainment nightly. Patio dining as weather permits. Featured dessert: the chocolate-lover’s pie—a rich, silky chocolate mousse, whipped cream, sweet cookie crust. Breakfast is served daily 7:30–11 am; lunch 11:30 am–2:30 pm; dinner 5:30–9 pm; Saturday and Sunday brunch 7:30 am–2:30 pm.
El Mesón 213 Washington, 505-983-6756 elmeson-santafe.com A native of Madrid, Spain, Chef/Owner David Huertas has been delighting customers since 1997 with family recipes and specialties of his homeland. The paella is classic and legendary—served straight from the flame to your table in black iron pans; the saffron-infused rice is perfectly cooked and heaped with chicken, chorizo, seafood, and more. The house-made sangria is from a generations-old recipe with a splash of brandy. The ¡Chispa! tapas bar offers a fine array of tapas. The full bar includes a distinguished Spanish wine list and special sherries and liqueurs imported from a country full of passion and tradition. Occasional musical entertainment and dancing. Dinner is served Tuesday–Saturday 5–11 pm.
Galisteo Bistro 227 Galisteo, 505-982-3700 galisteobistro.com Chef-owned and “made by hand,” featuring eclectic, innovative international cuisine known for its open kitchen, quality menu offerings, and attentive service www.santafean.com
in a casual, comfortable downtown setting. Just a short walk to the historic Santa Fe Plaza, the Lensic Performing Arts Center, hotels, and museums. “I admire a restaurateur who says, Hey, I want to cook the foods I love, like a musician who says, I want to play the music I enjoy. He would have made a great conductor; his orchestra of a staff is playing lovely food in perfect harmony. If music be the food of love—long may the Galisteo Bistro play on.”—John Vollertsen, Santa Fean. Wednesday–Sunday 5–9 pm.
Geronimo 724 Canyon, 505-982-1500 geronimorestaurant.com Señor Geronimo Lopes would be pleased if he knew how famous his 250-year-old hacienda on Canyon Road has become. The landmark adobe is now home to a cutting-edge restaurant—elegant, contemporary—serving the highest-quality, most creative food. Award-winning Executive Chef Eric DiStefano serves up a creative mix of French sauces and technique with culinary influences of Asia, the Southwest, and his own roots in Italy, blended to bring taste to new levels. Geronimo is New Mexico’s only restaurant with both Mobil Four Star and AAA Four Diamond awards. Dinner seven days a week, beginning at 5:45 pm.
Il Piatto Italian Farmhouse Kitchen & Enoteca 95 W Marcy, 505-984-1091 ilpiattosantafe.com Locally owned Italian trattoria located one block north of the Plaza. Nationally acclaimed and affordable, Il Piatto features local organic produce and house-made pastas. Prix-fixe three-course lunch, $14.95. Dinner: three courses, $32.50 (anything on the menu, including specials). No restrictions. Lunch Monday–Friday 11:30 am–2 pm; Enoteca Monday–Saturday 2–5 pm; dinner seven nights a week from 5 pm. “Everything is right at Il Piatto, including the price.”—Albuquerque Journal
India Palace 227 Don Gaspar, 505-986-5859 indiapalace.com Voted “Best Ethnic Restaurant” in Santa Fe. Located just one block from the Plaza, India Palace specializes in the dynamic, complex cuisine of Northern India using ayurvedic (science of longevity) cooking principles. Homemade cheese, yogurt, ghee, kulfi (pistachio ice cream), and tandoori-fired traditional breads complement the extensive menu, which includes chicken, lamb, seafood, and vegetarian dishes. Entrées may be ordered mild, medium, or hot. No artificial flavors or MSG. Restaurant entrance is located at Don Gaspar and Water Street, inside the parking lot. Open 7 days a week. Lunch 11:30 am–2:30 pm; dinner 5–10 pm.
featured listing La Casa Sena 125 E Palace, 505-988-9232 lacasasena.com La Casa Sena is located in downtown Santa Fe, in historic Sena Plaza. We feature modern, sustainable cuisine; an award-winning wine list; and a spectacular patio, and we are committed to using fresh, local, and seasonal ingredients whenever possible. La Casa Sena has been one of Santa Fe’s finest and most popular restaurants for over 27 years. For a more casual dining experience, visit La Cantina and be entertained by our singing waitstaff performing the best of Broadway, jazz, and much more nightly. Lunch is served Monday–Friday 11 am–2:30 pm, Saturday and Sunday 11:30 am–3 pm; dinner Sunday–Thursday 5:30–9 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30–10 pm. Our popular wine shop adjacent to the restaurant features a large selection of fine wines and is open Monday–Saturday 11 am–6 pm, Sunday noon–5 pm.
La Plazuela at La Fonda on the Plaza 100 E San Francisco, 505-995-2334 lafondasantafe.com Experience Old World Santa Fe while dining at La Plazuela at La Fonda on the Plaza. The menu showcases old favorites with New World twists. Our wine list is award-winning, our service is impeccable, and, according to reviewers, you’ll be dining in the “best of Santa Fe style.” La Plazuela hours: breakfast daily 7–11:30 am; lunch Monday–Friday 11:30 am–2 pm, Saturday and Sunday 11:30 am–3 pm; dinner daily 5:30–10 pm.
Luminaria Restaurant at the Inn and Spa at Loretto 211 Old Santa Fe Trail 800-727-5531 or 505-984-7962 innatloretto.com Luminaria introduces Matt Ostrander as executive chef. Chef Ostrander is no stranger to local Santa Fe foodies. A quintessential City Different chef, Ostrander is self-trained, gaining his experience as a true Santa Fe chef in some of the great culinary establishments in the area. Luminaria menus focus on Chef Ostrander’s sustainable approach to his cuisine and feature an abundance of fresh, locally grown ingredients with the perfect Southwestern twist. Breakfast 7–11 am; lunch 11:30 am–2 pm; dinner 5–9 pm. Early-evening dinner at Cena Pronto, 5–6:30 pm; Sunday brunch 11 am–2 pm.
Maria’s New Mexican Kitchen 555 W Cordova, 505-983-7929 marias-santafe.com Maria’s now uses only 100 percent agave tequila in every one of the more than 200 hand-poured, handshaken margaritas served—no wonder Maria’s has been chosen “Santa Fe’s Best Margarita” for the 15th consecutive year. Maria’s uses no sugar or mixes—
The Palace Restaurant and Saloon 142 W Palace 505-428-0690 palacesantafe.com
This historic classic exudes the elegant character of Santa Fe in its interior but surprises with modern Italian and New American Cuisine by Chef Joseph Wrede and a dedicated team of culinary professionals. It’s nice, with a little naughty on the side. totally pure and natural. A Santa Fe tradition since 1950, Maria’s specializes in authentic, home-style, Northern New Mexico cuisine, plus steaks, burgers, and fajitas. You can watch your flour tortillas being rolled out and cooked by hand. Lunch and dinner Monday–Friday 11 am–10 pm, Saturday and Sunday noon–10 pm. Reservations are suggested.
The Ranch House 2571 Cristos Road, 505-424-8900 Chef Josh Baum and his wife, Ann Gordon, have built a new home for Josh’s famous barbecue. This cozy restaurant on the south side feels as if you stepped into a historic Santa Fe home. There are two dining rooms, two outdoor dining areas, and a full bar with signature cocktails and eight beers on tap. In addition to the same great barbecue, the greatly expanded menu includes new salads and appetizers, plus a grill menu with salmon, steaks, and more! The lunch menu includes daily specials. The Ranch House is located on Cerrillos and Cristos Road near Kohl’s. Open Tuesday– Sunday 11 am–9 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am–10 pm. Closed on Mondays.
Rancho de Chimayó Santa Fe County Road 98, #300 on the scenic “High Road to Taos” 505-984-2100, ranchodechimayo.com A treasured part of New Mexico’s history and heritage. A timeless tradition. Serving world-renowned traditional and contemporary native New Mexican cuisine in an exceptional setting since 1965. Enjoy outdoor dining or soak up the culture and ambience indoors at this century-old adobe home. Try the Rancho de Chimayó’s specialty: carne adovada—marinated pork simmered in a spicy, red-chile-caribe sauce. Come cherish the memories and make new ones. Open seven days, May–October, 11:30 am–9 pm; open six days November–April, 11:30 am–9 pm, closed Mondays. Online store is now open!
Rio Chama 414 Old Santa Fe Trail, 505-955-0765 riochamasteakhouse.com Located just south of the Plaza next to the State Capitol
building, Rio Chama has been a favorite for locals and visitors for more than 10 years. Chef Russell Thornton focuses on contemporary American cuisine with Southwestern influences, featuring the finest dry and wet aged steaks, prime rib, wild game, and fresh seafood. Our wine list features more than 900 labels and 28 wines by the glass, earning us the “Best of” award from Wine Spectator. It is sure to excite the oenophile in anyone. Rio Chama offers a mix of intimate dining spaces, two beautiful patios, and a bustling bar. Open daily 11 am–close.
Santacafé 231 Washington, 505-984-1788 santacafe.com Centrally located in Santa Fe’s distinguished downtown district, this charming Southwestern bistro, situated in the historic Padre Gallegos House, offers our guests the classic Santa Fe backdrop. Step into the pristine experience Santacafé has been consistently providing for more than 25 years. New American cuisine is tweaked in a Southwestern context, and the food is simply and elegantly presented. Frequented by the famous and infamous, the Santacafé patio offers some of the best people watching in town! During high season, our courtyard, protected by a sun canopy, becomes one of the most coveted locales in Santa Fe. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
Terra Restaurant at Encantado Resort 198 State Road 592, 505-946-5700 encantadoresort.com Terra, the signature restaurant for Encantado, an Auberge Resort, features majestic views of the surrounding mountains and offers an inventive interpretation of American cuisine. Having achieved Wine Spectator’s coveted “Best of” excellence award, Chef Charles Dale’s modern rustic cuisine exemplifies a passion for simple yet refined menus that maintain a connection to regional influences, which is evident in all of his dishes, such as his signature boneless beef short ribs with poblano-mushroom mac-n-cheese. Terra is open seven days a week, 365 days a year. Breakfast 7–11 am; brunch/lunch 11:30 am–2 pm; dinner 5:30–10 pm.
www.santafean.com february/march 2012
continued from page 25
Cracks in the Armor Despite intense security efforts, a now infamous act of espionage took place in Santa Fe during the Manhattan Project years. In June 1945—about a month before scientists tested the first atomic bomb at the Trinity Site near Alamogordo, New Mexico—renowned physicist Klaus Fuchs came down from the Hill to meet with a research chemist named Harry Gold. As investigations later revealed, both Fuchs and Gold were spying for the Soviet Union, and key secrets to the construction of an atomic bomb were exchanged at their meetings—secrets that led the Soviets to create and detonate their own bomb four years later. The first meeting between Fuchs (code name “Rest”) and Gold (“Goose”) took place at the Castillo Street bridge on Santa Fe’s east side. The two met again in September, this time at what they described as a church on the city’s north side. Historians believe that “church” was the Scottish Rite Temple, at Paseo de Peralta and Washington Avenue. From photographs, it’s clear both men dressed neatly and conservatively. They certainly would not have looked out of place in the city at that time, whether walking down the street together or talking by and under the bridge. These days Castillo Street and its bridge are gone, absorbed when the Paseo de Peralta loop was built around the city in the 1960s. But the concrete Delgado Street bridge, which sits about a block east of the old Castillo Street one, is of the same period, look, and vintage. On a warm June night, if you were walking along Alameda between the long-gone bridge and the surviving one, it wouldn’t be hard to imagine that the soft rustle of the trees was recalling the confidences between Fuchs and Gold. Both men were arrested in 1950, first Fuchs and then Gold. After confessions, both were sentenced to prison terms. 60
Palace of the governors photo archives
An aerial view of Los Alamos National Laboratories in 1995. Today LANL occupies 36 square miles of land owned by the Department of Energy and employs more than 11,700 people. Below: A Cockcroft-Walton injector, ca. 1960s, at the labs—part of a high-tech particle accelerator, or “atom smasher,” like those used in the Manhattan Project.
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His and hers lapis and Tibetan turquoise channel inlay sterling silver bracelets and rings Elemental curves of color in beautiful hues and graceful, graphic lines. Each bracelet, buckle, and ring is a unique and vibrant work of art. Find your zen in Roger Wilbur’s fine channel inlay jewelry at Packard’s on the Plaza. 61 Old Santa Fe Trail, 800-648-7358 or 505-983-9241, shoppackards.com
| H I S TO R Y |
hope and Glorieta 15 0 ye a r s ag o, a k e y Civil Wa r bat t le wa s f oug ht in Ne w Mex ico by Ro ck y Dur h a m
Clockwise from top left: A repair workshop at Fort Union, 1866; the main building at Pigeon’s Ranch, shown here in 1951, which was used as a hospital during the Battle of Glorieta Pass; the Glorieta battlefield in June 1880.
Sibley’s next move focused on Colorado. He knew that there was only one way to march an army over the southern tip of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains—the Santa Fe Trail; near the crest between Santa Fe and Fort Union lay Glorieta Pass, a strategic spot Sibley sought to control in order to topple Fort Union, a stronghold of the U.S. Army that could stand in the way of Sibley proceed-
Palace of the governors photo archives
While the American Civil War is widely understood to be a conflict between the North and the South, it’s less well-known that its battles were not confined to Eastern sites, and that New Mexico—a Union sympathizer and a territory for only 11 years when the war began in 1861—was host to some of the war’s key combat. This March marks the 150th anniversary of the Battle of Glorieta Pass, a decisive fight some historians refer to as the Gettysburg of the West. Launched in an attempt to gain control of the Southwest (as well as desirable assets in California and Colorado), the Confederate Army’s New Mexico campaign lasted from February to April 1862, under the leadership of Brigadier General Henry Hopkins Sibley. A West Point graduate, Louisiana-born Sibley served in the U.S. Army for 22 years before resigning in May 1861 to join the Confederacy. Having previously been stationed at Fort Union in northeast New Mexico, his knowledge of local terrain, military installations, and commanders made him an obvious choice to lead an invasion into the young territory. On January 3, 1862, with three and a half regiments of Texas Mounted Rifles, many artillery pieces, and a company of volunteers, Sibley led his army north from Fort Bliss, near El Paso. His plan was to capture Union stores at Albuquerque and occupy the capital city of Santa Fe. His army would then proceed along the Santa Fe Trail and take Fort Union, where they would resupply, before entering Colorado to capture its gold fields. Sibley would then march west to the Pacific Ocean in triumph, claiming all the land in between for the Confederacy. On February 20 and 21, a little more than a month after Sibley and his 2,500 men began their northward march, they routed Union troops under Colonel Edward Canby at the Battle of Valverde. This early victory fueled the morale of the Confederates as they continued up the Rio Grande Valley. Before Sibley arrived in Albuquerque, however, the military stores had been emptied, thus depriving his army of expected supplies. Sibley turned the depot into his headquarters and sent several hundred men to take Santa Fe. On March 13, his army succeeded, raising the Stars and Bars over the Palace of the Governors and occupying the territory’s capital city.
ing northward. Sibley dispatched some 300 troops, under the command of Major Charles L. Pyron, to make camp at Apache Canyon, located at one end of the Pass. Meanwhile, while on a forced march from Denver, the Colorado Volunteers and U.S. Army troops had learned of the Confederate victory at Valverde; after covering 400 miles in 14 days, they passed Fort Union to intercept the Texans. The exhausted troops arrived in the evening hours of March 25 and attacked the next morning.
The Battle of Glorieta Pass—sometimes called the Gettysburg of the West— was fought March 26–28, 1862. On March 26, at Apache Canyon, the second Civil War battle on New Mexico soil ensued. The daylong skirmish ended with few casualties. Both armies retired to await reinforcements, which arrived the following day, and battle began again the morning of March 28. Fierce and bloody combat marked the day. While the Confederate troops, led by Pyron and General William Read Scurry, held the field at day’s end, there was no clear victor. The Confederates had left their supply train lightly guarded in the rear, so as to maneuver less hindered. During an attempt to outflank the Texans, Colorado forces stumbled upon the train. They burned the wagons and captured or slaughtered more than 1,000 horses and mules. Without supplies, the Texans were forced to abandon their efforts and retreat to Santa Fe under a flag of truce. Ultimately, they marched back to San Antonio, ending the Confederacy’s New Mexico campaign. The Battle of Glorieta Pass was a critical event in the American Civil War. The capture of Colorado would have permitted Sibley’s army to march effectively unchecked all the way to the Pacific, and the Colorado gold fields would have provided significant capital resources to the Confederate government, potentially affecting the outcome of the war. Since 1993, the Pecos National Historic Park has managed the Glorieta Pass Battlefield, which was named a National Historic Landmark—a distinction shared with fewer than 2,500 U.S. sites. For self-guided and ranger-led tours of the battlefield, call the park at 505-7577241. In May, in honor of the 150th anniversary of the battle, El Rancho de las Golondrinas will be hosting a reenactment. For more information, visit golondrinas.org.
300 Years of Romance, Intrigue & History. Your stay becomes extraordinary at the Hilton Santa Fe Historic Plaza. Originally the hacienda of the influential Ortiz Family who settled in Santa Fe in 1694, we offer luxury guestrooms, private casitas and thoughtful touches for the leisure and business traveler alike. For the start of the day, lunch, or a lite dinner El Cañon offers fabulous fare morning, noon & night. Just steps from Santa Fe’s Historic Plaza with fine art galleries, museums and shopping—a unique experience in a unique destination.
open nightly for lite dining and spirits
100 Sandoval St., Santa Fe, NM 87501 | 800-336-3676 | HiltonOfSantaFe.com
| D AY T R I P |
Red River photo by Ron We at h e rs
Distance from Santa Fe: 106 miles Why Visit: Established in 1895 as a mining community, Red River once overflowed with fur trappers and prospectors looking for gold, silver, and copper. Today this historic, low-key mountain town makes a great base for winter outdoor fun. Let It Snow: Red River Ski Area (snowboarders welcome) sees an average annual snowfall of 214 inches, and the lifts start right off Main Street, a charming stretch of restaurants, shops, and lodgings. Nordic skiers and snowshoers can explore more than 33 kilometers of groomed trails in Carson National Forest at the Enchanted Forest Cross Country Ski Area, three miles east of town. Mountain Magic: Red Riverâ€™s slopes glow with torchcarrying skiers in the weekly Torchlight Parade, Saturday nights at 7. Come early and check out the Rail Jam, a pre-parade exhibition of ski and snowboard tricks. Fat Tuesday and More: Mardi Gras in Red River runs February 16â€“21, with parties, parades, Cajun cook-offs, contests for kids, and live Creole music all week long. Getting There: From Taos, take NM 522 north to Questa. There, make a right onto Highway 38 (the Enchanted Circle) and drive about 12 miles to Red River. Info: Red River Visitor Center, 877-754-1708, redriver.org
2011-2012 W I N T E R S E A S O N
ASPEN SANTA FE BALLET
SEASON PRESENTING SPONSOR
MOMIX - BOTANICA
PHOTO: MAX PUCCIARIELLO
January 24 7:30pm
Aspen Santa Fe Ballet March 16 & 17 7:30pm
ENCORE! PHOTO: ROSALIE O’CONNOR
Aspen Santa Fe Ballet
April 17 7:30pm
All performances are held at The Lensic, Santa Fe’s Performing Arts Center.
Tickets: 505-988-1234 w
GOVERNMENT / FOUNDATIONS
OFFICIAL AND EXCLUSIVE AIRLINE OF ASPEN SANTA FE BALLET
Partially funded by the City of Santa Fe Arts Commission and the 1% Lodgers Tax, and made possible in part by New Mexico Arts, a Division of the Department of Cultural Affairs, and the National Endowment for the Arts. PHOTO: MAX PUCCIARIELLO
C H A R L E S
A R N O L D I
CHARLOTTE JACKSON FINE ART In the Railyard Arts District / 554 South Guadalupe, Santa Fe, NM 87501 Tel 505.989.8688 / www.charlottejackson.com
Charles Arnoldi, Woebegon, 2010, acrylic on canvas, 60 x 52 inches
The Santa Fean Magazine's 2012 Photography Issue.