Santa Barbara Independent, 11/16/17

Page 42

TURKEY AND BEER MAKE

COOKING with KISH R

thanksgiving

are is the chef who’d admit

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THE INDEPENDENT

NOVEMBER 16, 2017

independent.com

KRISTIN TEIG PHOTOS

s tv star

that her riesling- and vinegar-glazed sweetbread recipe was inspired by a childhood fondness for chicken nuggets drowned in sweet-andsour sauce, but Kristen Kish is often the exception. She became only the second woman to win Top Chef, in the juggernaut’s 10th season; she did so after being told to pack her knives and go, only to battle her way back from the single-elimination gauntlet known as Last Chance Kitchen. In the finale, she was declared the winner before dessert was served, thus becoming the first chef-testant Cinderella story, if the palace ball were a sweaty kitchen and the prince were Padma Lakshmi. For now, Kish has opted out Kristen Kish of restaurant life in favor of a nomad’s existence—she cooks here and there, but you have to sniff her Also included are exquisite little out. However, with the release of her numbers whose bloodlines reach back cookbook-meets-autobiography, Kris- to the famed kitchens in which Kish ten Kish Cooking, you can conjure a taste worked. From Barbara Lynch’s Menof her magic at home. ton, there’s rabbit loin with époisses and The book emphasizes technique mustard (emulsifying cheese into sauce while also offering a revealing introduc- in lieu of butter to up the funk is texttion and anecdotal headnotes alongside book Kish) and char with black truffle each recipe—“It’s important to under- sauce, inspired by the decidedly firststand a cook on a personal level to better world conundrum: Whatever will we do understand their food,” she said—and with these leftover truffles? while they frequently Dishes that earned her kudos on Top Chef reference whimsical childhood inspiration, and that are lifted they are not child’s play. from her sojourns as With a scholarly revercohost of 36 Hours make appearances, too, ence for the 101s, gymnastic knife skills, and although the dish she the vision and steady shared from the latter’s hand of a presentation Montreal episode is not by Shannon Kelley gastronomic in nature. perfectionist, Kish creates food marked by “I landed after five days sophistication and, frequently, surprise. in Singapore and shot the interview the Still, even the most highbrow dish is next day,” she said. The interviewee? Jusgrounded by the South Korean adop- tin Trudeau. “If anything will pull you tee’s memories of a quintessentially out of jetlag, it’s him.” Midwestern childhood. Sweet corn capFair. pellacci is introduced with an evocative What’s next for Kish remains to be tale about picking up fresh corn from seen, but for now, “I’m excited that [my roadside honor stands, and then spend- story is] out there in cookbook form.” ing the afternoon shucking, and eating, the spoils. Nods to kiddie stuff abound: Chickpea-battered broccoli with lomo and mornay is introduced via homage to cheddar-broccoli soup; Kish compares her béchamel to Velveeta. She summoned deviled ham and pimento cheese’s “delightful tackiness” to arrive at the ham-and-comté appetizer she first made at one of Questlove’s food salons. The kataifi-wrapped burrata with date syrup and radish? Nothing more than Kristen Kish will sign copies of a gussied-up mozzarella stick! (Lest the her book Thursday, November 16, down-hominess taste contrived, con- 4:30 p.m., at Fess Parker’s DoubleTree Resort sider: Asked what she most craves after (633 E. Cabrillo Blvd.), where, the following day, a long night in the kitchen, she replied, she’ll take part in the James Beard Celebrity Chef “Chicken fingers, grilled cheese cooked Tour. See independent.com/kish for tickets and kristenkishcooking.com. by someone else, High Life beer.”)

‘Top Chef’ and Author

KRISTEN KISH

Visits Santa Barbara for Two Events

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