Uniform Portraits

HERITAGESERIES1

Salvation Army

Uniform Portraits New Zealand 1883-1913

Selwyn Bracegirdle

THE SALVATION ARMY HERITAGE CENTRE & ARCHIVES TE RUA MAHARA O TE OPE WHAKAORA

The Heritage Series is a collection of historical material from the Heritage Centre & Archives of The Salvation Army New Zealand, Fiji, Tonga & Samoa Territory.

The series brings to life the histories of a wide range of people, artifacts, images, records, events, places, work and mission of The Salvation Army.

“We hear the Christchurch Band is going in for a uniform.”

The War Cry 21 July 1883 (page 3).

HERITAGE SERIES 1 Salvation Army Uniform Portraits - New Zealand 1883-1913

by Selwyn Bracegirdle, Research and Content Manager Heritage Centre & Archives © The Salvation Army New Zealand, Fiji, Tonga & Samoa March 2019 ISSN 2624-3865 (Print) | ISSN 2624-3873 (Online) The content of this publication has been sourced from The Salvation Army Heritage Centre & Archives’ physical and digital collection, unless otherwise stated. All War Cry references are from the New Zealand War Cry, unless otherwise stated.

The views, comments statements and opinions expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the official position of The Salvation Army.

The Salvation Army Heritage Centre & Archives Te Rua Mahara o Te Ope Whakaora Booth College of Mission 20 William Booth Grove, Upper Hutt 5018 PO Box 40542, Upper Hutt 5140 Phone: + 64 4 528 8628 ext 65051 Email: archives@salvationarmy.org.nz

Cover photograph: Candidate William Beets 1893.

The Heritage Centre & Archives also has a webpage on which you can find information and articles of interest: www.archives.salvationarmy.org.nz

Contents ________________________________________________________________________ UNIFORMS AND UNIFORMITY 3 ________________________________________________________________________ NOTHING NEW UNDER THE SUN 8 ________________________________________________________________________ TRI-COLOUR RIBBON 15 ________________________________________________________________________ GETTING INTO UNIFORM 16 ________________________________________________________________________ BRANDED 19 ________________________________________________________________________ UNIFORM ADVERTISING 24 ________________________________________________________________________ SOLDIERSHIP INTERVIEW 28 ________________________________________________________________________ ORDERS AND REGULATIONS FOR SOLDIERS | 1899 31 ________________________________________________________________________ ADORNED WITH THE SPIRIT 35 ________________________________________________________________________ COVERING GROUPS 46 ________________________________________________________________________ INDEX 56 ________________________________________________________________________

1

A great example of a handembroidered Salvation Army crest on a red guernsey.

2

Uniforms and Uniformity “The detachment of The Salvation Army commenced operations yesterday in the Temperance Hall, which has been occupied as the headquarters or ‘barracks,’ here. Captains Pollard and Burfoot wore the Army uniform (dark tweed with scarlet facings) and also the Army badge (a shield bearing the motto ‘Blood and fire’). They are both young men, evidently thoroughly in earnest, and full of faith in the success of their mission. As may be expected, they are not polished speakers, but they have a rough-andready style, a determined manner, and the ability to deliver their message [in] a simple, straightforward, and withall impressive style”. (The Otago Daily Times [Dunedin] Monday 2 April 1883) And so The Salvation Army was announced to New Zealand with descriptive emphasis on the uniform and the manner and style of the Salvationists. In 1883, in New Zealand, it appears there were no firm regulations about uniform wearing. However the photographic record shows a relative consistency of tunic style worn by male officers, while greater variation among the dress of women officers. The wearing of uniforms by soldiers was adhoc and by no means required, though encouraged. Wearing tidy sombre clothes with a Salvation Army shield or tri-colour ribbon seemed to be acceptable. The symbolism of “The Salvation Army” was more important than the cloth.

The first issue of The War Cry was published on 16 June 1883, and continued to be published weekly. In the second issue 23 June 1883 there appeared the first advertisement for uniforms, including a price list. Tunics, trousers and caps were available for men but only bonnets advertised for women.

By the beginning of 1884 official guernseys were available to purchase.

They were red (described as crimson in the UK War Cry of the day) with “Salvation Army” in yellow. One advertisement describes them as scarlet.

In October 1884 the newly named “Trade Department” (previously known as “The Book and Uniform Depot” ) had increased its product range to include dresses for women. All this was happening while The Salvation Army was headquartered at the Temperance Hall in Moray Place, Dunedin.

While there was an endeavour to promote uniformity of dress the reality, which is evidenced in the historic photographic record, proved a little less consistent. Many provided their own clothing which made the possibilities for variation very high.

The War Cry 23 June 1883 (page 4).

3

Early War Cry advertisements promoted various items including the uniform made from serge, caps, red cap bands, bonnets, shields, and there were tambourines, [salvation] war medals and Salvation Army publications.

The War Cry 5 January 1884 (page 4).

The War Cry 21 July 1883 (page 4).

The War Cry 29 November 1884 (page 4).

4

The War Cry 12 February 1887 (page 4).

The title ‘Trade Department’ first appeared in the New Zealand War Cry of 4 October 1884.

5

The War Cry of 19 August 1893 (page 7) illustrates a more extensive list of items available. The Trade Department is now in Christchurch.

6

The War Cry 23 September 1893 (page 5).

Old bonnet in hat tin.

7

Nothing New Under the Sun The War Cry of 5 February 1887 published an article titled “UNIFORM” written by Miss Catherine Booth (see pages 10 & 11). There were two key points. Her bold opening statement encapsulates the first – “The great weakness of the Christianity of the 19th century is its cowardice in failing to take an open stand against the powers of darkness”.

She takes aim at the “enemy” who suggests God and the world can be united; and at the richly dressed and bejewelled Christian lady who should sell them [dress and jewellery] and give the money to the Holy War. She suggests targets for our attention in obedience to the Master and declares officers and soldiers should lift up the “Danger Signal”. All this leads to the second key point – the purpose and benefit of the “Uniform” under the headings “We are an Army”; “The importance of the dress”; “Economy”; “Neatness and Order”.

However, she issues this warning – “One word to those (and they are, I know, numerous) who have on this point resisted the Holy Spirit. They are convinced they should adopt the uniform of the Army, but they have not obeyed.

You who are reading these lines, if this is your case, take care, take care! Give up, as soon as possible, this road, upon which you will only find condemnation, and say to the Lord, I will follow Thee, I will obey Thee, even should it bring me into solitude. Then you will be clothed with power from on high; you will be conquerors.”

Then there is the local perspective – pages 16, 17, 19, 23 & 35 provide The War Cry examples. These views provide fascinating insight into New Zealand views on uniform wearing.

Under the heading “Hints on Uniform Wearing”, W. Bateman suggests “Many soldiers of the Army neglect their uniform to a great extent, and thereby lose great blessings to their own souls, and also the chance of being a help to others whom they meet. If they only knew how the sight of the SA colours will sometimes help a weak soldier, I am sure that they would be far more careful than they are in this matter, and always wear ribbon (see page 15) and shield, if nothing more.”

It is important to note that the jackets/tunics and dresses worn by officers and soldiers only became Salvation Army uniforms when S’s, shields or tri-colour ribbons (see page 15) were attached, or even if a guernsey with Salvation Army identification was worn.

As the information, perspectives, articles and imagery are considered it seems that the uniform and its purpose was debated in the early years as much as it still is today. It seems to reinforce the maxim, “There is nothing new under the sun”.

8

Captain W J Harris, photographed in Invercargill 1884, is wearing a jumper below his jacket that has been embroidered with the crest. It is quite likely a locally/home produced item.

9

10

The War Cry 5 February 1887 (page 2). Catherine (also known as Katie and Kate) is a daughter of William & Catherine Booth. She was also known as ‘la Marechale’, for her Salvation Army work in France.

11

Candidate William Beets c1893. A classic image of the red guernsey and cap. It would have made a fantastic advertising image for the sale of such items.

The red guernsey backdrops the yellow lettering of SALVATION ARMY.

12

Candidate Rowena Trevarthan out of Paeroa Corps 1899.

Another fabulous bonnet and bow. And note the patch on her arm designating her role in work among juniors of the corps.

Young unidentified Salvationist from Gisborne c1895, wearing S’s, shield badge, bonnet and carrying a timbrel.

13

Major George & Alice Pollard photographed December 1883. While a beautiful formal photograph it is worth noting that George is wearing the trI-colour ribbon folded through a buttonhole and wrapped inside the tunic.

14

Tri-colour Ribbon Featured here are Salvationists wearing the tri-colour ribbon. It was a common practice in the early years to wear it front and centre on jackets/tunics. Colonel Bailey declares, as late as 1891, in The War Cry article on “Soldiership” (see page 29), “I think it quite right to advise him to wear some part of the uniform a piece of trI-colour ribbon is sufficient for a start – but in all cases it should be a voluntary action.”

The style (attached to tunic) and degree of tri-colour ribbon use, seems to be unique to New Zealand – there is very little evidence in the photographic record from Britain, USA and Australia, but many examples from New Zealand.

Portrait of two Salvationist musicians. The violin player seated is wearing the tri-colour ribbon.

The War Cry 4 April 1885 (page 4) advertising three inch pieces of “Tri-Colour Army Ribbon”.

The first officers of Whangarei Corps were Captain Renshaw and Lieutenant Dixon. Here they are posing in matching uniform style wearing Norfolk jackets with a waist strap. An interesting feature of this photograph is that both men also have attached to their jackets the tri-colour ribbon.

It confirms their affiliation with The Salvation Army.

Captain George & Elizabeth Wedge (1884) entered officership out of Invercargill Corps. George’s cap is the straight-sided style of the 1880s.

Elizabeth is wearing the silver shield at her throat with frilled white neck collar and the tri-colour ribbon. Together their plain clothing is typical for officers of the early years in New Zealand.

15

Getting Into Uniform There are wonderful examples of hints, advice and thoughts around uniform wearing written and published in The War Cry over the years. Some of those expressions have been included here.

The War Cry 19 July 1890 (page 4).

The War Cry 4 October 1890 (page 6).

The War Cry 18 November 1893 (page 7).

16

The War Cry of 23 February 1895 (page 3) has this example of a testimony – “How I Got Into Uniform” by Brother P Jackson of Christchurch Corps.

17

Various types of badges from the early days of The Salvation Army in New Zealand

18

Branded The guernsey, the crest, the shield, the ‘S’s and the tri-colour ribbon – all these symbols of The Salvation Army were regarded as more important than particular dresses, trousers, jackets or tunics. It was the bonnet and cap, along with the symbols that formed the brand, the way to identify with The Salvation Army in the early years.

The War Cry 24 November 1894 (page 2).

The War Cry 10 July 1897 (page 6).

Soldier’s Cap Crest.

19

Unknown soldier couple of the Newton Corps (undated).

While very smartly dressed, it is interesting the lighter tone of the woman’s bonnet and dress.

20

While unidentified and undated, it illustrates an intriguing use of a sash over Norfolk jacket. Sashes were worn on special occasions, notably weddings. In this case the event is unknown.

A guernsey from around 1900. A typical home made version as evidenced by the pattern of the letters not matching the official version often seen in photographs (see front cover photo). This one was worn by George Soper, even at his work where, as a steam boat captain, he witnessed to his faith.

21

An unknown kaumatua wearing a Salvation Army crested scarf with silver shield badge attached.

22

Many Maori had an affinity with The Salvation Army and were eager to wear the uniform or to show association through wearing the crest, badge or shield. Ensign Stirling, a Maori, was a single woman officer and is mentioned in The War Cry article below from Rahotu.

Maraea Morris of Gisborne 1886.

The War Cry 18 May 1889 (page 3).

The War Cry 18 October 1902 (page 6).

The War Cry 21 May 1887 (page 3).

23

Uniform Advertising

The War Cry 25 April 1891 (page 7).

The War Cry 1 August 1891 (page 7).

The War Cry 30 April 1892 (page 8).

24

The War Cry 3 November 1894 (page 5).

The War Cry 18 June 1892 (page 6).

The War Cry 29 October 1893 (page 3).

The War Cry 20 July 1893 (page 2).

The War Cry 1 August 1903 (page 8).

The War Cry 9 September 1905 (page 2).

The War Cry 12 November 1904 (page 8).

25

The War Cry 23 September 1905 (page 7).

The War Cry 22 September 1910 (page 8).

The War Cry 7 July 1910 (page 8).

The War Cry 29 October 1910 (page 8).

26

The War Cry 21 March 1910 (page 8).

The War Cry 3 June 1905 (page 8).

The War Cry 1 June 1912 (page 8).

The War Cry 20 July 1912 (page 8.

The War Cry 5 July 1913 (page 8).

27

Soldiership Interview

28

The War Cry 20 June 1891 (pages 1-2). Based on an interview with Colonel R Bailey (Commander New Zealand Division) by The War Cry Editor.

29

The War Cry 3 January 1891 (page 7). Unfortunately it appears that not one copy of the advertised publication Orders and Regulations for Soldiers of The Salvation Army made available in Australasia has survived in Australia or New Zealand.

30

Orders and Regulations for Soldiers | 1899 An example of the first Orders and Regulations for Soldiers of The Salvation Army [1890/91] in Australasia is not available, but the 1899 publication has survived. It is interesting to note that Orders and Regulations for The Salvation Army were published in England in 1878 then reprinted in 1881. The 1881 reprint is advertised in The War Cry 4 October 1884 (see page 5) with the note “So-called Secret Book.� The pages relating to uniform wearing and appearance from the 1899 version for soldiers have been included here:

31

32

The Orders & Regulations for Soldiers of 1927 provide the excerpts below. They highlight how similar parts of the content are compared with 1899.

This copy courtesy The Salvation Army Heritage Centre, Melbourne.

In bonnet and cap - with shield on neck collar and tri-colour ribbon on tunic.

33

Uniformed Wellington Salvationist wearing crested guernsey, shield badge, tri-colour ribbon and S badges.

34

Adorned with the Spirit We have previously noted Miss Catherine Booth’s comments regarding the importance of obedience to God, especially for uniform wearers. The uniform is presented as an item that marks out the wearer as separate from the world, as belonging to the people of God. There is great emphasis that the wearing of uniform assists in not conforming to the fashions of the world. And that the wearing of Salvation Army emblems “...may preach salvation...” (Orders and Regulations page 31-32). A sense of modesty and avoidance of decoration with jewellery were very much a part of Catherine’s (The Salvation Army’s) vision.

Temuka Corps “Our band is getting on splendidly, several going for caps and guernseys.”

The War Cry 21 September 1907 (page 3).

The War Cry 5 April 1902 (page 2).

The War Cry 27 June 1891 (page 3).

35

Captain Jabez White, an early officer in New Zealand, is wearing a plain jacket of the era with S’s on each collar.

On his chest is a silver shield with some form of ribbon attached. On 1 April 1883, in Dunedin, Jabez heard the distant sound of singing and as he hurried towards the sound he heard the words “There is a fountain filled with Blood, drawn from Emmanuel’s veins; And sinners plunge beneath that flood lose all their guilty stains.” This moved him greatly reminding him of gospel singing in the USA. With a smile on his face he joined the “open air” declaring himself a Christian. And so he joined The Salvation Army.

(Reference: Dear Mr Booth by John Waite [page 6])

36

Captain Henry Sharp, Thames Corps 1903. A great example of another unique guernsey with a Salvation Army crest. Henry served for many years as an officer achieving the rank of brigadier and seeing changes in uniform and trimmings over that time.

General William Booth photographed on his visit to New Zealand in 1905.

While wearing a Salvation Army uniform with appropriate S’s and crest on neck collar, he holds a top hat which he wore throughout much of his life while also wearing a Salvation Army cap on other occasions.

37

Some uniforms were more ornate than others. This unidentified woman Salvationist had a long jacket/coat with a significant double trim and a fancy collar around the neck. The material seems lighter than most others (probably pre-1900). The silver shield identifies The Salvation Army. However, the vision for wearing uniform was that it should be plain and not based on worldly fashion.

38

When applying for officership, Cadet Muriel Williams supplied this photograph of herself as a corps cadet, with CC arm patch and badge attached to her jumper.

Salvationist holding a bonnet showing an excellent view of the folded taffeta on the top of the bonnet.

39

Thomas Sharp of the Newton Corps Band photographed in 1906. The formal uniform of this band appears identical to the Christchurch City Corps Band apart from the pattern on the cuffs which vary (page 52). Uniforms like this were available from the Trade Department (see advertisement on page 27).

40

Jim Summerville was the Flag Sergeant of the Nelson Corps for many years and photographed here in 1912.

An interesting feature of this photograph can be seen in the enlarged section below.

On the crown of the cap, in the centre, is an unusual rossette pattern. Normally the top of the crown would be unadorned.

Auckland Rescue Home staff c1900. The aprons feature the commonly used words among Rescue Home staff “For His Sake�.

Candidate Mrs Catherine Sutcliffe, out of Whangarei Corps 1912, wearing a gloriously large bonnet.

An unusually high crown to this cap on an unidentified soldier from Blenheim Corps.

Adjutant and Mrs Thurkettle with an unidentified officer centre. The women are similarly uniformed and the man in a double pocketed jacket - c1913.

41

The Saunders family of Riverton Corps photographed in the early 1900s. The mother appears to be wearing a Salvation Army uniform while other members of the family show their support of The Salvation Army by wearing a badge.

42

A group of people who had served at the Dunedin Corps and had played an important role in the corps’ history. While smart to look at as a group, it doesn’t hide the fact that there is no uniformity to the uniforms. However, the bonnets make a fine unified stand! The “re-union” and photograph were taken in Dunedin during 1910.

43

Replica of an early Salvation Army cap with straight sides up to the crown.

44

An example of a Salvation Army cap with a wider crown.

In the group photos following there is a transition from the straight side to a wider crown over the years 1883-1913.

45

Covering Groups On the following pages (46-55) are a series of group photographs from a range of corps and years up to 1913. The variations are clear to see and seem to remain somewhat constant from corps to corps over the first 30 years. Even the Christchurch City Band (page 52) wearing a formal band unform has inconsistencies. Over time many bands decided to have a formal band uniform. This suggests an attempt to establish a better and consistent standard.

The Wanganui Corps Band photographed around 1885. Many different styles of uniform, including two distinctly unique guernseys are visible and different cap styles. Note the instrument sitting on the drum with a unique architecture of tubing. If only we could see this image in colour to view the variation in materials and colours used.

46

The Wanganui Corps Band photographed 19 years later in 1904. This photograph provides a stark contrast with the 1885 version opposite.

47

For an 1884 photograph these Invercargill Corps bandsmen are very smartly presented. The photograph makes a great study with the range of instruments represented, and even the young lad sitting on a box chair right end of the front row. All but the two youngest boys are wearing the straight-sided cap.

Some caps have a Salvation Army crest attached.

Three future officers are identified:

George Wedge.

48

William Foster.

Allan Fisher.

The Dunedin Corps Timbrel Brigade of 1898. This group of women is typical of the time.

They are similarly dressed but showing a wonderful array of subtle variations. The presumption is that the making of each dress and jacket was the owner’s responsibility, despite the availability of a standard item through the Trade Department.

49

Auckland Corps Band c1900. A number of guernseys are visible.

50

Oamaru Corps Band 1902-1903.

51

The Christchurch City Corps Band in formal uniform. This studio photograph was taken in 1908. However, not everyone is wearing the same uniform. The corps officer would be in his officer uniform and any other officers most likely the same. But it would be a big assumption that all in plain uniform are officers (notably the young boy leaning against the drum). The important message from this photograph is that there is a development toward being far more unified than in earlier years – something that becomes more evident in the coming decades.

52

The Petone Corps Songster Brigade photographed in 1910. Another example of mixed uniforms, bonnets, hats and dress styles. Their music album seems to be rather thick in volume!

53

The Palmerston North Corps String Band of 1912.

54

Local officers of the Gisborne Corps photographed c1913. It is interesting that after 30 years of The Salvation Army in New Zealand the large bonnet is still in vogue.

55

Index Advertisements (The War Cry) | 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 24, 25, 26, 27, 30 Auckland Corps Band | 50 Auckland Rescue Home | 41 Badges | 18, 19, 22, 34 Bailey, R (Colonel) | 15, 28, 29 Band Uniforms | 25 Bateman W | 8, 16 Beets, William (Candidate) | Front cover, 12 Blenheim Corps | 41 Blouses | 26 Bonnet | 3, 7, 13, 24, 25, 26, 39 Book and Uniform Depot | 4 Booth, Catherine (Booth) | 10, 11 Booth, William | 37 Burfoot (Captain) | 3 Burton (Lt.Col; Field Sec) | Inside back cover Burton, Fred | 19 Business Suits | 26 Callaghan, L (Lieutenant) | 23 Caledonian Grandstand | Back cover Camel Hair Khaki | 26 Cap (artefact) | 44, 45 Capes | 4, 5, 6 Cashmere | 26 Chesterfield Coats (Men) | 26 Christchurch City Corps Band | 52 Congress (First in New Zealand) | Back cover Coombs (Commissioner) | 19 Crest | 2, 9, 22, 34, 36 Curlinglock (Captain) | 16 Dixon (Lieutenant) | 15 Double-breasted Overcoats | 27 Dunedin Corps (Group) | 43 Dunedin Corps Timbrel Brigade | 49 Fisher, Allan | 48 Foster, William | 48

56

Gisborne Corps Local Officers | 55 Guernsey | 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 12, 17, 19, 21, Back cover Harris, W J (Captain) | 9 Holdaway (Captain) | 23 Hunter (Captain) | 19 Invercargill Corps Band | 9, 15, 48

Saunders (Family) | 42 Serge | 3, 5, 24, 25, 26, 27 Sharp, Henry (Captain) | 36 Sharp, Thomas | 40 Shower-Proof Cloaks | 27 Soldiership | 28, 29 Soper, George | 21 Stirling (Ensign) | 23 Summerville, Jim | 40 Sutcliffe, Catherine (Candidate) | 41

Kaumatua | 22 Maori Contingent | 23 Marechale | 10 Moray Place (Dunedin) | 3 Morris, Maraea | 23 Munday, Thomas | 19 Nelson Corps | 40 Newton Corps | 20, 40 Norfolk Jacket/Tunic | 15, 25 Oamaru Corps Band | 51 Orders and Regulations | 5, 30, 31, 32, 33 Overcoats | 24, 27 Paeroa Corps | 12 Palmerston North Corps | 19 Palmerston North Corps String Band | 54 Petone Corps Songster Brigade | 53 Pollard, George & Alice (Major) | 14 Pollard, George (Captain) | 3 Price List | 5, 6 Rahotu | 23 Rattray (Captain) | 19 Red Band Jacket | 26, 27 Regulation Uniform | 25 Renshaw (Captain) | 15 Rescue Homes | 13, 41 Riverton Corps | 42

Temperance Hall | 3 Temuka Corps | 35 Thames Corps | 36 Thurkettle (Adjutant) | 41 Timbrel | 13 Trade Department | 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 16, 24, 25, 26, 27 Trevarthan, Rowena (Candidate) | 12 Tri-colour ribbon | 3, 14, 15, 19, 33, 34 Underwear | 27 Uniform Costumes (Women) | 27 Waipawa Camp | 19 Wanganui Corps Band | 46, 47 Warm Winter Coats (Women) | 27 Waterproof Cloaks | 24 Wedge, George & Elizabeth (Captain) | 15 Wedge George | 48 Whangarei Corps | 15, 41 White, Jabez (Captain) | 36 Williams, Muriel (Cadet) | 39 Winter Outdoor Jackets (Women) | 27

BOLD PAGE NUMBERS REFER TO PHOTOGRAPHS OR ILLUSTRATIONS

Jubilee (1933) reflection (excerpt) by Lt.Colonel Burton (Field Secretary) under the title Fifty Years of Field Activity in Maoriland:

“Surely it would be far better to exalt the privilege of uniform wearing, to impress every recruit with the idea that they must claim the power to live holy and consistent lives...�

The War Cry 27 June 1891 (page 3).

The War Cry 22 April 1933 (page 3).

The first New Zealand (Christmas) Congress, Dunedin 25-27 December 1883. Photograph (one of two taken) by the Burton Brothers 27 December at the Caledonian Grandstand.

The War Cry 5 January 1884 page 2 - quotes from the Christmas Congress: “Scarlet guernseys were now plentiful, while nearly all wore the Army Ribbon on their caps.”

“Some of the Soldiers had only the ordinary dress, relieved by the S’s on the collar, but the majority of the occupiers of the platform had removed their tunics, and now stood in brilliant Scarlet Guernseys.”

“One cardinal-coated warrior gave his testimony in such a way that several were moved almost to tears.”

THE SALVATION ARMY HERITAGE CENTRE & ARCHIVES TE RUA MAHARA O TE OPE WHAKAORA