Food Lifestyle Magazine Autumn 2025

Autumn

This season's best places to eat, stay, shop and visit in the South West

love

Right: Dale and Tamsin in our gorgeous new craft apron

Food Lifestyle magazine is an independent publication supporting the region's artisan food, hospitality and lifestyle businesses. If those are things you care about too, why not join the cause and become a subscriber?

Be a subscriber

Get four seasonal issues delivered to your door as well as a weekly email newsletter revealing new and special finds. £25 per year.

Be a Friend of Food Lifestyle

Take your support of Food Lifestyle next level. Friends get the full subscription package, a beautiful-quality canvas work apron (great for cooking, gardening and craft) and the feelgood vibes that come with supporting what you love. £50 per year.

Further subscription and gift packages are

Below and right: Wax-carving rings at Praktyka in Devon. Read about it on page 58

Editorial Abi Manning, Melissa Morris, Jane Rakison, Jo Rees, Rosanna Rothery, Selena Young

Design Christopher Mulholland Publishing Charlotte Cummins, Tamsin Powell Accounts Richard Bailey

Commercial/advertising Nick Cooper, Claire Fegan, Jeni Smith ‑ 01271 859182

Publisher Salt Media – ideas@saltmedia.co.uk, 01271 859299, saltmedia.co.uk

Cover image Cold water dip at Source Spa, Saunton Sands Hotel. browser food-mag.co.uk  foodlifestylesw Facebook‑F foodlifestylesw

Thanks to our clients for supporting the magazine that supports South West independent businesses. Copyright The contents of this magazine are fully protected by copyright and may not be reproduced without permission. Disclaimer We choose the businesses included in Food Lifestyle features based on editorial integrity. Sometimes, inclusions will be handpicked from clients with whom we have a commercial relationship. While every effort has been made to ensure that adverts, details and articles appear correctly, Food Lifestyle cannot accept responsibility for any loss or damage caused directly or indirectly by the contents of this publication. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of its publisher or editor. Print We're serious about protecting the planet, which is why we print using solvent‑free inks on FSC‑certified paper, working with a printer that holds ISO14001 certification for environmental good practice. Published 2025 ISSN 2977‑5582 (print) ISSN 2977‑5590 (online).

Did you know autumn is the very best time of year to eat cheese? Neither did I. Find out why in Jane's feature on page 68. Armed with this knowledge, you'll soon be creating killer cheeseboards which also feature accompaniments like Scott Paton's incredible lemon-thyme digestive biscuits (get the recipe on page 73) and Matthew Briddon's fermented walnuts (page 64). Thank us later.

Autumn is also a prime time for a South West staycation. We've curated some very special insider's finds. Turn to page 50 to discover exceptional rural dining pubs with rooms, and check out Abi's Cool Places to Stay on page 40. She also visited The Nare for this issue (page 54), while Rosanna slipped into her Spa Inspector robe to review Saunton Sands Hotel's Source Spa (page 46).

I was delighted to swing by an unexpectedly brilliant new golf-and-dining experience in Cornwall, Selena visited Ogo at Bedruthan, Abi found a magical spot for dinner after a Dartmoor stomp and Jane ate at Heydays in Exmouth. Read our reviews from page 25.

We also spent time at one of our favourite spots for autumn feasting: The Lost Kitchen near Tiverton. Rosanna met Tastemakers George and Aurora (page 14) and got the inside story on how they created such a special experience.

In the drinks section, Jane reveals five South West still wines to put on your hit list (page 76) and cracks open the story on locally brewed stouts (page 80).

There's loads more to discover in this issue, including my tried-and-tested review of a wax-carving jewellery workshop in Devon (page 58) and seasonal cooking and eating tips from the team at The Farm Table (page 36).

Whether you're hunkering down or heading off this season, I know you'll find some delicious inspo.

See you at Christmas.

Jo Rees Editorial director and founder Salt Media

rees_jo

food-mag.co.uk

foodlifestylesw

This issue

FEATURES

8. Eight things to do this season

Our fave finds for autumn.

14. Tastemakers: George and Aurora Aykroyd

Meet the couple behind The Lost Kitchen near Tiverton.

20. Bite size: Ollie Vernon

Chewing the fat with the head chef of The Chagford Inn on Dartmoor.

EATING OUT

25. Restaurant reviews

We visit Brasserie on the Bay, Ogo, Halwyn, Heydays and The Castle Inn.

36. Autumn feasting at The Farm Table

Grilling George Dart and Tom Chivers for seasonal inspo.

TRAVEL

40. Cool places to stay

Special spots for an autumn staycation.

46. The spa inspector: Source Spa

A marine-inspired thermal journey at Saunton Sands Hotel in north Devon.

50. The curation: weekends in the wild

Chunky knits and wellies at the readyautumn getaways at smart rural inns and pubs with rooms.

54. The full works: The Nare

The pleasures of luxe old-school hospitality at the seaside.

58. Tried and tested: Praktyka jewellery workshop

Slip into a creative flow state in Devon.

WEEKEND COOKING

64. The fermenter: wet walnuts and fermented fruits

Matthew Briddon introduces us to the mother of all cheese accompaniments.

68. The magnificent seven Stonking cheeses for your autumn cheeseboard.

73. Lemon-thyme digestives

Scott Paton shares his cheeseboard biscuit recipe.

DRINKS

76. Five of the best: English still wines They're having a moment!

80. Jane Rakison's drinks diary

Our drinks expert indulges in the ultimate autumn nectar.

83. Autumn Glow Collins

Give your Tom Collins a glow-up.

84. Win!

Win a stay at The Wellington in Boscastle, lunch at Sidmouth Donkey Sanctuary and a spa break at Budock Vean Hotel and Spa.

88. Directory

90. Stockists

Things 8 to do this season

1. Stay snug in a wardrobe staple

How much do we love a woollen vest? Let us count the ways. One of fashion's favourite capsule items, it's the perfect way to weather autumn's changeable temperatures. Woolgatherers (woolgatherersworkshop.co.uk) makes this beautiful version, The Ferryman's Vest, using locally sourced yarn from Dartmoor. Just the thing to wear while hugging granite boulders.

2. Love your dimples

Up your coffee game with these dinky dimple cups from EOT Ceramics (eotceramics.com) which are handcrafted in Cornwall. The dimples make the cup lovely to hold, and the range includes Glas (below), Porth (sea green) and Dor (stone and mauve).

3. Eat at Elly's

When the news broke that one of our fave chefs, Elly Wentworth, was leaving The Angel in Dartmouth we were heartbroken – until we found out she was taking up the post of exec chef at the Refectory at Fowlescombe Farm (fowlescombe.com). Book your table at Devon's most exciting new rural retreat and see what she's creating with owngrown ingredients.

Image: Jon Tonks

Our secret spot for steak is Restaurant Kensington (restaurantkensington.co.uk) in Lynton, north Devon.

Exmoor-reared beef is showcased in a top-drawer menu featuring unusual sharing cuts such as chateaubriand, tomahawk and porterhouse, as well as the more commonly found fillet, rump and sirloin. The beef is treated with reverence by the chefs and paired with a plethora of sauces and sides like buttery smoked mash, beef-fat carrots and bacon-jam mac and cheese.

4. Scoff steak at Restaurant Kensington

Image: Faydit Photography

5. Join the commune Bruton-based Commune (commune.cc) creates plant-based bodycare that's rooted in sustainability. Its signature fragrance, Seymour, references ripe fruits and warming autumnal woody tones and is used across the whole range - from hair care to perfume - so you can layer it up.

6. Feast at Redruth's cool community hangout

Housed in a funkily revived historic building in the heart of Redruth, the Buttermarket (buttermarket.org) is part streetfood hangout, part cultural hub and part community living room. Six indie food traders serve up delicious eats while the central courtyard acts as the town's unofficial meet up spot. It's also a home for live music and local markets.

7. Do breakfast, Indian style

Move over, avo toast. There's a new kind of breakfast luring us from our beds on Saturday mornings, and it hails from India – by way of Bath.

Bandook (bandookkitchen.com) is not only rustling up delicious breakfast fare, but it's also helping kids at a Bath primary school. For every uttapam, kolkata roll or Bombay breakfast ordered at Bandook in Bath, a nourishing breakfast is supplied to the school's breakfast club. The restaurant also raises money for children thousands of miles away, as part of a collab with the Dream Centre Project charity in Mumbai.

8. Spend the day at Bristol Harbour

For culture, coffee, feasting and strolling, is there a better day out than a mooch around Bristol Harbour?

We like to start with a flat white at Little Victories (littlevics.co.uk) on Wapping Wharf, followed by a wander through Arnolfini (arnolfini.org.uk). Notable shows this autumn include exhibitions by Sahara Longe (pictured, inset), Dana Awartani and Emma Talbot. Then we head to Harbour House (hhbristol.com) for a long lunch by the water.

The restaurant, in a 19th century transit shed, champions quality produce in dishes like half a Cornish lobster with all the sides, and grilled octopus with romesco sauce, charred fennel and roast potatoes. Meat lovers will rate the steaks and Gloucester Old Spot pork chop. An excellent wine and cocktail list segues lunch into evening drinks in style.

Image: Lisa Whiting Photography for Arnolfini

TASTEMAKERS

GeorgeAuroraand

At The Lost Kitchen in a tiny Devon hamlet, George and Aurora curate natural treasures and craft casual dishes. It's a very special experience, finds Rosanna Rothery

Photographs by Guy Harrop

Perched on a hill in the tiny Devon hamlet of Chettiscombe, The Lost Kitchen is the epitome of bucolic rural eating.

Led by George and Aurora Aykroyd, this rustic feasting barn emits the kind of genuine homespun charm that's rare – and getting rarer in an age of contrived renovations.

When the couple were first invited to turn what was once a dilapidated 19th century linhay on the Knightshayes Estate (not to be confused with the National Trust Knightshayes Estate nearby) into a welcoming casual restaurant, George's mental cogs began to whir. From the outset, he wanted to create an experience that was authentic, unique and magical.

The barn had enjoyed incarnations as a cowshed, chicken farm, apple store and informal playground for village kids, so he was determined to reflect its heart of the countryside heritage.

An eclectic CV (which includes film editor, builder, teacher and previous restaurant creator and owner) meant George had a suitcase of skills to call upon.

‘As with many things in life, I just answered a single question: “Why not?”’, he laughs.

As soon as he'd taken on the project, one of his earliest missions was to scour the hedges on the estate for treasure.

‘All the water troughs [now lining the terrace and planted up with clouds of fragrant catmint] were sitting in the hedgerows for free, because farmers leave them there when they start to leak due to rust,’ he says. ››

‘That cast-iron piano frame,’ he says, pointing to a magnificent piece of garden sculpture, ‘was pulled out of the hedge and is now something of a curiosity.’

George put his practical skills to work and turned timber from the estate into magnificent long feasting tables, while a slice of thick tree trunk became the gnarly underpinning for a circular glass table.

The quirkery didn't stop there. His eye for the unusual saw him fashioning a table from a coffin support – one of his prized finds from a local reclamation yard – and handmaking a ginormous blind. For the latter, he tracked the sun on a spreadsheet to ensure that, whatever the time of the day, ‘something magical would happen with the lighting’.

The result of all this originality and repurposing is a restaurant with authentic rural charm that feels like the antithesis of fashionable-but-faux farmhouse chic.

Lunchtimes are festooned with big atmospheric skies thanks to floor to ceiling windows, while evening feasting is cosy and intimate as the characterful stone walls and exposed roof trusses reflect the golden glow of soft lighting.

‘It's never a disappointment when people come up the steps and let out a sigh of relaxation,’ says George. ‘You can just sense their shoulders dropping.’

‘Whatever the time of the day, something magical would happen with the lighting’

Homeliness and warmth

Aurora is a former chef who worked alongside renowned Somerset restaurateur Sally Edwards. She does the branding and visual identity for the restaurant, liaising with head chef Jason Mead.

She enjoys researching dishes which are underpinned by kitchen-garden veg and edible flora, local seasonal produce and traditional countryside skills such as fermenting and breadmaking.

‘We try to have something unique about each dish, while at the same time keeping that homeliness, warmth and softness,’ she says. ‘I was born in France and my French grandmother was an excellent cook so, for me, it's all about creating a nostalgic vibe.’

Menus are shaped around a curation of sharing plates, small morsels and larger dishes, and in the open-plan kitchen there's always marinating, infusing, preserving and brewing (the restaurant makes its own beer and cider) underway. ››

Flame-licked feasts

George and Aurora started out in business together cooking sourdough pizzas in a mobile wood fired oven. So it was a given that fire would be at the heart of The Lost Kitchen.

A black beast of a hot smoker, which sits on the terrace, was discovered by George half buried under weeds in a field. He dragged it back to The Lost Kitchen where it now adds flavour to fish and meat.

The restaurant is also renowned for its flame licked sourdough pizzas.

‘Put any pizza in a home oven and it just beigely idles along, but when cooked over fire the water turns into steam which creates a delicious crust,’ says George. ‘When you do that with dough that's 72 hours' old, the result is fantastic.’

Autumnal fruitfulness

Autumn is a particularly special time of year at the restaurant.

‘There is that glorious moment when everything begins to lose its green and go back to its original structure. It's a gentle nudge that you should be looking for the wood pile and starting to get ready for winter,’ says George.

On the estate, as well as pickling and preserving, that means harvesting apples from 450 ancient trees to create the house fermented Wylde Cider.

Enjoying

a moment

George and Aurora's original brief was to make The Lost Kitchen accessible to the community, something they continually strive to do.

‘We've always wanted to stay true to the informality of the building, which is why you can turn up in a T-shirt and jeans just as much as you can dress up,’ says Aurora.

George adds: ‘We want people to feel like they've been on holiday when they visit, and stepped away from normal life for a moment.’ •

lostkitchen.co.uk

TASTEMAKER TIP-OFFS

Insider's pick for French food?

‘I recommend littlefrench in Bristol,’ says Aurora. ‘A lovely family-run eatery for a delicious, relaxed and unpretentious night out.’

Favourite restaurant?

‘We like Italian restaurant Emilia in Ashburton, which is run like a small osteria and takes a similar approach to seasonal ingredients to us,’ says George.

Favourite lesser-known find?

‘We like to go for a curry on Barricane Beach in Woolacombe, north Devon’ says George. ‘We once went after a four-day restaurant-building session and ordered two curries each.’

Best place for autumnal feasting?

‘The Pig in the New Forest is really atmospheric when the mists come down,’ says Aurora. ‘There are deer and horses roaming around so you get an autumnal forest feel that's romantic and cosy.’

Clockwise from top left: chef Jason cooking over coals; wood fired pizza; alfresco seating

BITE SIZE

Vernon Ollie

Abi Manning chews the fat with the head chef of The Chagford Inn on Dartmoor

Photographs by Guy Harrop

There's quiet steel behind the smiles of Ollie Vernon and Jordan Ralph.

Perhaps it's due to the fact the couple got the keys to The Chagford Inn just two weeks before the first Covid lockdown and had to ride that storm through the early years of running their business.

Yet, despite their first foray into running a pub being a baptism of fire, chef Ollie and Jordan (front of house) have made a significant mark on the South West culinary scene. Their inn recently bagged Best Pub at the prestigious Trencherman's Awards 2025.

What better way to interview a chef than when tucking into his delicious cuisine? I sat down for lunch with Ollie to find out about the couple's five years at the inn, grill him on upcoming plans and see the new refurb.

‘Five years came and went and we still had the same colour scheme as the previous owners,’ says Ollie. ‘So we thought it was about time we cracked on with what we wanted to do. We hired a designer who helped us make some bold choices. I wouldn't have thought of painting the ceiling red or green, for example, but we love what she's come up with.

‘We did a lot of the work ourselves. We haven't got a financial backer; it's just me and Jord and our love of the place, pushing it forward.’

Starter

As with many chefs, Ollie's early food experiences lie behind his choice of career.

‘My dad married an Italian lady, and it was a combination of her cooking and the time I spent in Italy, watching how ingredients were prioritised and so simply dealt with, that inspired me. From the age of 12 I wanted to be a chef.’

His journey into cheffing was modest. ‘I trained at Exeter College then worked at a few places in Exeter, Seaton, Beer and around the Torquay area - no massive names.’

Working at a big-name restaurant isn't the only indicator of talent, of course. My starter of chopped Sladesdown trotters with pickled walnut on a slab of fluffy toast went a long way to proving Ollie's cooking clout. It also revealed his nose-to-tail ethos.

‘It's a respect-for-life thing. If an animal has been reared well and given its life, why are we not celebrating the entire thing? We're in a world where big restaurants only use premium cuts and there's no thought to where the rest of the animal goes.

‘Carcass balancing is a nightmare for butchers, so we source half cows (three years old and pasturereared) from a local farmer and take on that responsibility ourselves.’

Home cooks who don't have the freezer space for a half cow can embrace nose-totail principles in other ways, explains Ollie.

‘Get a slow cooker. Low and slow is the way forward for cheaper cuts, which you can get from your butcher. Try something simple like oxtail stew or fill the slow cooker with oil and use it to confit. Shredded confit brisket is delicious.’

Main course

My main of seven-spiced duck breast with apricot, Tenderstem, watercress and sweet potato is another dish that namechecks Sladesdown Farm. In fact, the whole menu details the producers behind the ingredients.

‘We buy a lot direct from farmers, which cuts out the middle man. Our pig farmer is a close friend and I can see his farm – and the woodland where the pigs live – from my balcony. It's good to have those personal relationships; people need to connect with each other, and food is such an easy thing to connect over.’ ››

Close relationships with farmers and growers means getting first dibs on unusual ingredients, which is especially exciting in autumn. Ollie lights up at the prospect of the season.

‘Summer dishes are light and refreshing, and in winter you can get a bit more meat on your plate, but autumn sees the start of game season. There's a change in the colours and a shift in attitude. I get very excited by the enormous variety of squashes too.

‘This autumn I'll have a game-bird dish on the menu and we'll source locally shot wild venison.’

Pudding

They say the proof of the pudding is in the eating, and in this case it's in the scoffing of a hazelnut choux bun with flavours of salted caramel and chocolate, coated in crunchy muscovado. It's pure indulgence, but not uber fancy.

‘More and more people don't want to eat in a restaurant that feels stuffy and formal. That's why we wanted to run a dining pub – I like the casual atmosphere. It's nice to get a good plate of food, have a pint at the same time, and see people at the bar chatting.’

Last orders

Where does Ollie like to eat out?

‘The Farm Table in Topsham is fantastic – it's got a really nice atmosphere. I also want to make it to The Swan in Bampton as I've worked with Jack [Alden, chef-owner] previously. And one of the best meals I've ever had was at Pony Chew Valley in Somerset. Josh [Eggleton] approaches food in a way I find very interesting.’ • thechagfordinn.co.uk

‘Autumn sees the start of the game season. There's a change in the colours and a shift in attitude’

Trencherman's chef Andy Tuck of The Tartan Fox by Adam Handling

Image: Guy Harrop

Eating out

The Food Lifestyle team eat out around the South West to reveal where's worth a visit

Halwyn, page 30

Brasserie on the Bay

St Michaels Resort in Falmouth has found the missing piece of its puzzle with the arrival of an exciting new head chef, discovers Jo Rees

Image: Elliott White

Lush gardens with hot tub, sauna and plunge pool. Stylish contemporary bedrooms. Health club and hydrotherapy pool. Tick, tick, tick. St Michaels Resort has long ticked all the boxes for a good-time getaway in Cornwall.

However, until very recently, its restaurant had a period without a head chef – although its three sous chefs did a solid job of manning the pass. But kitchens work best with a leader, or it's like attempting the Normandy Landings without Monty to coordinate the troops.

Like field marshals, chefs need a strategy, and I was intrigued to find out what the resort's newly arrived head chef, Dave Waters, had up his sleeve. Most recently, he led the kitchen at Hotel Meudon and also spent six years working with Nathan Outlaw, so he knows his oysters.

Earlier in the day, I caught up with Dave and chef Stephane Delourme (who led Rick and Jill Stein's The Seafood Restaurant for two decades), which provided an inkling as to what the strategy might be. Stephane had stepped in to oversee the kitchen for a couple of months before Dave's arrival and was finishing his tenure there. And yes, you'll be delighted to discover, they're transforming Brasserie on the Bay into a seafood restaurant.

Our expectations were high when we arrived for dinner. We kicked things off with rock oysters dressed in hogwash (rice vinegar, minced shallot, jalapeño and coriander), which were bracingly fresh, and ordered a board of bread to accompany. So many decent restaurants let the side down with underwhelming bread (and coffee, but let's not go there). However, these springy slabs of focaccia and brown and white sourdough, served with black olive tapenade, green olive and smoked-almond tapenade, and olive oil and balsamic, were so good they require significant self-restraint.

For starters, we moved on to crispy pig's cheek with pineapple, rum and mango salsa, and a delicate salad of salt-baked red and golden beetroot with apple, whipped goat's curd and candied walnuts. It was exactly the kind of opener needed when you plan to follow it with a big fat lemon sole swimming in garlic, ginger and chilli butter. To be sated before that hit the table would be a dereliction of duty.

The fish was cooked beautifully and presented (with head on) in a jacket of buttery herbs – a delicious portent for the restaurant's new seafood direction. Sticking to the theme, we paired it with lobster thermidor with salad and fries, and it was everything you'd hope for when ordering the most expensive thing on the menu.

For pudding, a shared mini tarte tatin – crisp pastry and caramelised apple (with bite) on a shoreline of cinnamon sugar – delivered apple and cinnamon doughnut vibes.

As the kitchen team knew we were in that night, they also sent out a new and not-yet-on-the-menu dessert to sample. The perfectly wobbly coconut pannacotta with strawberry and pineapple salsa referenced piña coladas without even a whisper of kitsch. A clue perhaps to the crowd-pleasing holiday vibes at which Dave is aiming? If that's the case, consider the last box well and truly ticked. •

Brasserie on the Bay

St Michaels Resort, Gyllyngvase Beach, Falmouth, Cornwall, TR11 4NB stmichaelsresort.com

EATING OUT

Ogo

Selena Young joins the creative set for an artistic feast with as much substance as style

Bedruthan hotel, anchored to cliffs above the shores of Mawgan Porth Beach, is a hotbed of creativity. Art classes, yoga sessions, wellbeing gatherings and feasting events make the contemporary hotel pulse with connectivity and innovation.

Add a wild array of artwork, and an on-site bakery churning out inviting carbs, and you're left wondering about the kind of cooking at play in the hotel's restaurant. Can it possibly match up? But rest assured, this is not a case of all trigger and no bang.

Tom Moore is the head chef leading the culinary artistic direction at Ogo. He changes the menu daily to reflect the dayboats' haul of net-fresh seafood, seasonal meat and veg that arrives from nearby farms, and team-foraged finds.

This impressively fresh produce is channelled into a concise menu of creative dishes, crafted with sustainability in mind and designed for indulgent sharing. The pithy curation is a pleasing find in a sea of TL;DR (too long; didn't read) menus that can result in food waste.

Complementing Ogo's minimalist menu are Scandi-inspired interiors that echo the coastal setting. And yet, while the views are attractive, all eyes are drawn to the works of – plated – art.

We began our feast by inhaling, in feral fashion, the housemade sourdough: warm, springy bread cloaked in outlandishly good cultured elephant-garlic butter.

Starters saw us devouring small plates of pigeon kiev with English pear jam; Cornish-cheese custard with pickled chicken of the woods mushroom; and john dory with spruce, olive and cider dressing. Each dish was delectable, flavour-packed and nicely presented.

The pigeon, encased in homemade panko crumb, was meltingly soft and kicked into a high gear by the sweet tang of its fruity jam.

A main of roasted Cornish duck breast with preserved plum and radicchio was ravishing. However, it was the red mullet with Isle of Wight tomatoes, lemon verbena and whey that really wowed. A coral reef of intriguing colours and textures, it showcased flavours ranging from the salt-sweet notes of the fish to the citrussy zing of lemon-verbena foam.

Sides to share included wilted organic cabbage with yet more umami cultured butter, and a duo of crisp confit potatoes under a blanket of herb emulsion.

For dessert, an earl grey ganache éclair, piped with fig leaf crémeux and served with preserved elderflower and raspberry, caressed the palate with earthy sweetness. A second – savoury - pud of warm Cornish scone layered with torched Bath brie and accompanied by gooseberry and apple jam blew the sweet version out of the water.

Ogo is an easy recommend, even without factoring in its exclusively Cornish wine list of organic and biodynamic finds. Visit to revel in the natural flavours of the season. •

Ogo

Bedruthan, Mawgan Porth, Cornwall, TR8 4BU bedruthan.com

EATING OUT

Halwyn

Jo Rees visits a new dining concept and discovers a contemporary experience delivering a hole in one

Joining the golf set never sounded very cool to me (rules about mandatory length of shorts and expensive club membership spring to mind), but a visit to Halwyn in Crantock changed all that.

Founder Will Eustice has hit a hole in one with this new concept. To be clear, Halwyn isn't a golf club in the conventional sense. It's a mash-up of golflite fun (high-tech driving range and mini golf), contemporary aesthetics and high-quality cooking in a super-rural spot.

We visited a week after launch and the place was already buzzing. Golfers were whacking balls in private booths on the 15-bay driving range with Trackman system, while being served pints of Sharp's Offshore, glasses of chilled wine and snacky plates. Other punters were cheating their way around a mini-golf course that's a contemporary riff on the format – granite rocks and swishy modern planting instead of pirates and treasure chests.

While it's not necessary to even touch a golf club to enjoy the Halwyn experience, we had a laugh attempting (and often failing) to land a decent shot. The real winner of the day, however, was dinner. Ditch any idea that this is a clubhouse canteen; Halwyn has a seriously good restaurant run by a chef whose last major tournament was as head chef at The Idle Rocks in St Mawes.

Indeed, many visitors skip straight to the Feasting Barn, a handsome room of exposed beams, mismatched wood furniture and big rugs. A glass wall overlooks countryside that includes Will's cousin's farm – the source of much of the produce on the menu. On warm days, diners head outside to the lawned garden where kids can run free and dogs can snooze under tables.

Chef Matt Haggath's menu is upbeat and full of flavour. Sharing snacks such as za'atar hummus on chickpea wafers with lemon gel, and cod croquettes with smoked cheddar, salsa verde and garlic aioli, are elegant and punchy. And Matt's homemade greek-style bread with miso butter is a must-order.

The menu is built for grazing, so we shared starters: slow-cooked pork belly with romesco, dressed hispi cabbage and pickled rhubarb, and a barbecued sheftalia sausage (made with Eustice-reared beef) on flatbread with tzatziki, lemon cabbage, pickled shallot and parsley.

Mains comprised a deep and earthy hen-ofthe-woods mushroom dish with soy and ponzu glaze, black garlic, curried couscous and wilted Swiss chard, along with a Josper-grilled steak which arrived succulent and smoky. We added skin-on fries and (greedily) both a very good chimichurri and béarnaise.

For pudding, a salted caramel tart with cherries and cherry sauce was cool, clean and well-balanced.

Supper here is as satisfying as hitting a magnificent shot. Swing by to appreciate the kitchen's technique while brushing up your own – and without having to think once about the length of your shorts. •

Halwyn

Halwyn Hill, Crantock, Newquay, Cornwall, TR8 5TR halwyn.co.uk

EATING OUT

Heydays

This Exmouth seaside diner oozes decks appeal, says Jane Rakison

Image: Matt Austin

Image: Matt Austin

Heydays, in the shape of a giant beach hut, towers over Exmouth Beach like a beacon of happy vibes.

One of the biggest joys of this cafe-restaurant is its position. Separated from the beach by just a wide pavement, it's perfect for watching the world go by. Rollerbladers with deep tans whizz past in ripped hotpants, parents wrangle with a suite of damp mini wetsuits, while pocket-sized pooches are pushed along in pet buggies. On first glance it could be Bondi, Venice or Ipanema but *quick sense check* this is definitely Devon.

Heydays' two levels of beach-view seating encourages unashamed voyeurism, and this reviewer is delighted. Yet, as entertaining as the pavement action is, the view beyond is even more captivating. Happily, this is a beachside diner for all seasons, and the sun doesn't need to be beating down for diners to enjoy the curl of Exmouth harbour prettily dotted with bobbing boats or the zen-inducing expanse of sea and sky beyond.

There are plenty more vantage points to be found inside, where it's clear Heydays got the 21st-century beach-diner memo about avoiding blue, boats and anchors at all costs. Instead, the theme is channelled through a pale pastel palette with details like raffia lampshades, festoon lighting and contemporary artwork.

The restaurant is broadly split into two: downstairs for walk-ins and upstairs for pre-bookers with destination dining in mind.

We headed to the first floor and found an extensive choice of crowd-pleasing dishes, including snacks and starters featuring a wide range of seafood classics. Despite that, we opted for courgetti fritters: five moist macaron-sized discs in crisp golden coats served on a bed of dill and lemon yogurt. The japanese baby back ribs starter was a more greedy choice: three generous pieces of succulent meat piled high and drizzled in ginger and honey dressing.

This is the kind of place where burgers make sense – and a whole section of the main-course menu is dedicated to them. Consider the buttermilk chicken burger with its crunchy coating and tangy house sauce. It's imposingly tall and served with well-seasoned fries.

Or head in a different direction with a japanese whole bowl – vegan and gluten free, but picked despite these factors not because of them. Dressed with a bright togarashi mayo, this colourful dish of satisfying flavours and textures incorporated warm sushi rice, edamame beans, sweet-potato chunks, beetroot and shards of roasted nori. We pimped it further – there are plenty of pimping options at Heydays – with fresh local crab.

For dessert, a pear, damson jam and frangipane tart with fresh double cream arrived as a luscious golden slice with a crisp pastry base. We added an affogato, served with the ice cream and coffee separate to let diners dictate the coffee-to-icecream ratio, before crumbling in pistachio biscotti from neighbouring Rise Bakery.

Heydays is an inclusive restaurant on all levels and kids, food intolerances and allergies are seamlessly catered for. Whether you're autumn lunching or visiting for a sunset supper, you'll find relaxed beachside breathing space in a spot to make the whole gang happy. •

Heydays

Sideshore, Queen's Drive, Exmouth, Devon, EX8 2GD heydaysdevon.co.uk

TheInnCastle

Abi Manning discovers moorland magic at work at Dartmoor's fairytale Castle

Picture the scene: the sky, dramatic; a fresh autumn breeze in the air; a yomp across Dartmoor beckons. And the allimportant question ... at which dining pub will you end your walk?

Nothing dampens the spirits after a wild and windy hike like a pile of soggy oven chips and a burger that's been zapped from frozen. That's why The Castle Inn, with its moorland magnetism, cosiness and comfort food, is such a find.

Hannah and Jared Lothian are the heart and soul of this pub. They took it on as tenants from St Austell Brewery in 2019, determined to reinvigorate the ancient building and turn it into a welcoming community hub.

If the pub's haul of awards is any indicator, they've hit the mark. The Castle Inn bagged Best Pub at the Devon Tourism Awards and the Food Drink Devon Awards in 2023, and it holds a clutch of gold Taste of the West awards for the rooms (13 above the pub and in a cottage opposite), pub and bar.

The couple add more than a touch of magic to the proceedings, but it's the setting that takes the experience into fairytale territory.

Zoom out for a scene of wooded valleys and hills, the Granite Way path and the 30m waterfall at Lydford Gorge. Pull focus to come closer and explore medieval Lydford Castle next door – allegedly, the original home of the pub's dining room fireplace. Then pan to the pub itself – in parts dating to the 16th century – which is all low ceilings, wonky beams, narrow passageways and ancient stone. The historical building has been tastefully furnished in a rustic fashion that's fully in keeping with its ancient character.

As to what to eat? The food hits the crowd-pleasing sweet spot where elevated pub classics meet fancier fare. So it's no surprise to find the space populated by couples dining à la carte, groups sipping cocktails and scoffing pizza outside under the heated tent, and hikers – fresh off the moor and with pooches in tow – sinking pints of Proper Job at the bar.

Whipping up the goods in the kitchen is chef Mike Palmer, whose cooking creds make him a bewitching addition here. Best known for his long tenure at nearby Two Bridges Hotel in Princetown (where he grew up), he's a recent recipient of Food Drink Devon's Chef of the Year.

Mike majors on fulsome flavours. On this visit, puffy focaccia with homemade pesto set the scene for a smorgasbord of starters packed with texture. Cod croquettes with king-prawn curry sauce and bhaji warmed the cockles, while ripped burrata was leant sweet tanginess by star anise-spiked peaches, granola, coppa ham, balsamic and honey.

Meltingly soft slow-cooked blade of Dartmoor beef with onion and a cheddar and brisket croquette was a richly pleasing showcase of the terroir. We also took a trip to the seaside with the special of butterflied Cornish mackerel with Isle of Wight heritage tomatoes, chorizo, chimichurri and sautéed new potatoes.

Our finale – a sugar-and-caffeine high courtesy of white choc pannacotta with English strawberries and honeycomb, paired with a shot of Ivybridgeroasted Owens coffee – would be just the thing to rev up diners for the hike home.

Need to know Hannah and Jared also run another pub, The Copley Arms in Hessenford, Cornwall. Visit for similar community-centric values, warm hospitality and fab food on the River Seaton, five minutes from the sea. •

The Castle Inn

Lydford, Okehampton, Devon, EX20 4BH castleinnlydford.co.uk

Autumnfeasting,

at The Farm Table

Shifting gear into autumn? Selena Young grills George Dart and Tom Chivers of The Farm Table at Darts Farm on seasonal cooking and eating

Image: Matt Austin

After a summer of light dishes and long days, autumn is the time to ease back into the kitchen and create comfort food. However, rather than slaving at the stove, embrace slow cooking, soups and stews using the season's abundant produce. Or let someone else do the hard work by dining at a restaurant that embraces the season's ingredients, such as The Farm Table at Darts Farm.

George Dart and chef Tom Chivers, who head up the restaurant, consider autumn the best time of year to visit. ‘Autumn welcomes a transition into slower, soulful cooking, which is naturally supported by the seasonal ingredients available,’ says George.

‘It also encourages a reactive way of cooking: at The Farm Table we change the menu maybe three times a week, depending on the ingredients harvested from our fields.’

Tom says: ‘It's my favourite season because of the explosion of flavours and colours. I love the earthy sweet squashes and root veg and cracking open jars of summer ferments and pickles. It's so easy to build on the flavour of autumn produce from the fields, farm and sea with ferments and deli cheeses. There's also a contrast of textures in this season's cooking.’

Inspired? Here are some of the pair's recommended ways to dig into the season.

Let the games begin Make the most of local pheasant, partridge and venison. ‘Pheasant is cheap, nutritious, and great for family meals when cooked low and slow with cabbage, cream and bacon,’ says Tom.

Squash glorious squash The pair are enthusiastic about the season's squash in all its forms – from creamy butternut to the bold orange flesh of crown prince. ‘We roast, grill and cook them in the wood-oven to unlock their natural sweetness – occasionally amplifying that by adding our own honey,’ says Tom ‘Roasted squash makes a lovely supper served with cheeses, bitter leaves and pickles.’

Slow food Meats, squash and celeriac all yield great results when treated to a gentle bath in the slow cooker.

Fish-centric suppers Chunky veg and hearty meat often take the starring role in autumnal dishes, but fresh fish and seafood like mussels and squid also warrant attention at this time of year.

‘We keep flame-cooked turbot on the menu year-round,’ says Tom. ‘The whole fish is served to share and is particularly delicious in autumn as the flesh is meaty and pairs well with roasted root vegetables.’ Home cooks should consider serving it – The Farm Table style – with a bean cassoulet loaded with fresh pancetta.

For a delicious fish feast (and further inspo), visit the Darts Farm event with seafood-pros Mark Hix and Mitch Tonks on November 7. The evening of small-plate feasting will showcase Mark's smoked fish and Mitch's tinned fish range. ‘It'll be a cracking event that reveals just how much you can do with quality fish in autumn. Trust us, there is more to tinned fish than salads!’ says George. • dartsfarm.co.uk

Travel

The South West's coolest, quirkiest and most fabulous places to visit in autumn

View from Gaia, page 45

to stayCool places

Abi Manning picks enchanting places to bask in the cosiness of the season

Bedroom at Osip

Osip

Dave Watts

OSIP

Bruton, Somerset

Bruton's Michelin-starred restaurant has levelled up with the recent launch of four lush bedrooms, and is now making a strong case for the title of ‘UK's most covetable gourmet escape’.

The rooms mirror the same peaceful minimalism and handcrafted finish of the restaurant and are a curation of exposed beams, oak flooring and locally crafted live-edge wood furniture. The eagle-eyed will notice exquisite elements that connect guests with the surrounding Somerset landscape.

This is a hot find for those appreciative of thoughtful, creative cooking. Chef-owner Merlin Labron - Johnson is a culinary wizard whose skills earnt him the Award for Creativity and Innovation at the Trencherman's Awards 2025.

osiprestaurant.com

Southcombe Piggery

Dartmoor, Devon

There are heaps of opportunities for cosiness and creativity at this former piggery.

Spend your autumn visit snuggling by the fire on an upcycled chesterfield sofa, soaking in the roll-top bath, or immersed in the Wild Spa with its wood-fired sauna and twin outdoor baths. Private yoga sessions, Indian massage and gong baths provide further distractions.

Soul food is accompanied by bodily nourishment. Order a delivery of locally made Sri Lankan curry or arrange a private chef to whip up a foraged feast, cooked over flames.

Creative juices can be squeezed with a linocut-printing, flower-crown making or forest-bathing workshop. ››

southcombebarn.com

The Old Smithy Woolsery, Devon

Leave any preconceptions about rustic country living at the door of this beautiful upside-down cottage in the north Devon village of Woolsery.

Polished concrete floors, expansive glass and contemporary design have been used to reinvent a former smithy, which holds a prestigious One‑Key Michelin rating. It's part of The Collective at Woolsery, a regeneration of the village's historic buildings which includes award-winning pub The Farmers Arms, a village store and a farm.

The open-plan living area is a cosy space for curling up in front of the roaring woodburner. A full kitchen is included – or simply open the gate between The Old Smithy and the pub's garden for supper cooked by head chef Toby Neal.

Not after an entire cottage? The dinner, bed and breakfast package in a stylish room above the sister village shop is perfect for a romantic getaway for two.

woolsery.com

Collective images: Matt Austin

Bishopstrow Hotel & Spa

Warminster, Wiltshire

Bishopstrow offers a playful and refreshing reinvention of the manor house experience. Georgian elegance is balanced with modern - day sass in bedrooms packed with delicious colours, quirky features and lush views.

The jumping-off point for any stay here, however, is a meal at The Garden Grill, a farm-to-fork restaurant with a no-dig garden at its heart. Seasonal fruit, veg and herbs are grown using organic and sustainable methods, providing flavour and freshness all year round.

Beyond the bites and beds, there's heaps to get stuck into at Bishopstrow, including an 18th‑century temple, walled garden, riverside footpaths, a spa, indoor and outdoor pools, tennis courts and afternoon tea by the fire. ››

bishopstrowhotel.com

Gaia

Widemouth Bay, Cornwall

Soothe the transition from warm days to the moodiness of autumn with a wellness break in hyper-modern eco home Gaia.

The retreat sleeps up to ten and provides a cocoon in which to disconnect from everyday life. Should the outside world beckon, however, just outside its walls lie rugged Black Rock Beach, cafes, shops, sand dunes that go on for days, and the South West Coast Path.

Delve through the complimentary Cornish Food Box and land&water bath and body products (perks of booking one of Beach Retreats' The Iconic Set properties), then take your pick from the abundance of in-house options that will take you from stressed to serene.

Stretch out in the yoga room, melt away in the Finnish sauna or grab a blanket and enjoy a sundowner on the roof terrace. Stormy weather? Make it a movie night in the cinema room. •

beachretreats.co.uk

Source THE SPA INSPECTOR

Spa

Rosanna Rothery immerses herself in a marine-inspired thermal journey at Saunton Sands Hotel in Devon

Image: Dean Chapple

Lounging around in the vitality pool in Saunton Sands Hotel's Source Spa is nothing short of multi-sensory theatre.

Before you, the astonishing panorama of Saunton Beach provides endless fascination: the sky changes colour in an instant, clouds shapeshift in the wind and waves dance along a boundless stretch of gleaming sands. Beneath you, the warm frothy embrace of mineral-rich Dead Sea salt water softens the skin, while powerful jets playfully pound aching muscles.

The jaw-dropping view is a bonus of booking a spa day at Saunton Sands: a four-star landmark hotel perched on cliffs overlooking a sweep of coastline and the natural wonder of the Braunton Burrows. Its Source Spa, spread over three floors, was created to take advantage of this unique location and, in 2023, won the AA Best UK Spa Award.

Thermal journey

Awe-inspiring ocean vistas ensure that, even when wallowing in the warm watery enclosure of the marine-inspired thermal suite, visitors feel connected to the restorative and soothing power of the sea.

The thermal suite's collection of hot and cold therapies can be experienced in an ad hoc, intuitive way, but those who appreciate a little guidance can follow a carefully curated journey (helpfully posted on the wall).

The aqueous odyssey begins with a mini hydrotherapy experience in the vitality pool, followed by a session in a salt-inhalation steam room. A few minutes in the latter has a similar effect to inhaling lungfuls of sea air during a balmy day on the beach.

Next, it's on to the Finnish sauna. The hottest experience on the journey, this cocoon of dry heat and uplifting aromatherapy oils induces ragdoll levels of relaxation when combined with a couple of rounds in the adjoining shower.

The final stop on this thermal crawl is the “snow” fountain. The proposition of smearing bracing handfuls of crushed ice over torso and limbs becomes surprisingly attractive after all that deep, cosseting heat. ››

Image: Dean Chapple

Live in the slow lane

Built in the 1930s, Saunton Sands Hotel has a distinct art deco vibe. So, when the spa was created in 2018, it was built to complement that era of dazzling glamour.

The deck surrounding the indoor swimming spot, for instance, is the kind of elegant space one could imagine holding a golden-era Hollywood pool party.

The pool itself is large enough for those who want to add a watery workout to their spa-day experience (a dry-land alternative is available in the gym). For a peaceful swim, however, allow the personal besters to thrash on ahead. A few meditative laps with the sound of a rain wall and calming music is bliss.

Lunch with a view

A lunch of either sandwiches, light bites (such as salad or soup) or classic dishes like grilled chicken supreme or River Exe mussels is best enjoyed with a side helping of those bewitching views.

The Terrace Lounge remains purposely informal during the day, so it's perfectly OK to rock up in a snug spa robe and flip flops and grab a seat opposite the window for ocean-view lunching.

Rooftop relaxing

For a snoozy finale to a day of intentional idling, a full-body aromatherapy massage calms the nervous system, improves circulation and soothes aching joints. Nodding off is optional while a skilled therapist kneads all the knots that have sneakily taken up residence in tense muscles.

The experience is enhanced with Source natural massage oils, which smell utterly divine and leave you smooth, glowing and glassy.

Other hour‑long treatments include bespoke facials and customised massages.

All are best followed by a post-treatment sprawl in the cosy rooftop relaxation room (or, in warm weather, on its glorious sun deck), where floor‑to‑ceiling windows give guests another chance to connect with the wild natural beauty of Saunton. Curl up on one of the beds, sip a herbal tea and gaze out at autumnal light shimmering beneath the prancing waves that lap the beach. •

WHAT'S INCLUDED

Spa days cost from £170 per person and include full access to all spa facilities (indoor and outdoor pools, gym, thermal suite and relaxation room), plus lunch, a 60‑minute spa treatment and flip flops to take home.

The hotel has also recently opened an infrared sauna, which is an additional add - on available to spa - goers and hotel guests.

sauntonsands.co.uk

THE CURATION

Weekends in the

Wild

Chunky knits and wellies at the ready!

Jo Rees handpicks smart rural inns and dining pubs with rooms for an autumn getaway

Sitting room at The Holcombe

THE HOLCOMBE

At this foodie getaway in Somerset's Mendip Hills, owners Alan Lucas and Caroline Gardiner oversee a seasonal, low-waste menu that utilises their own homegrown produce and the best from nearby artisan suppliers. Their raised beds and polytunnels are as much a part of the team as Truffle the house hound, and garden‑to‑plate dining is the defining culinary ethos.

The inn itself reveals rustic-modern charm. Recently renovated bedrooms mix British-made textiles with antique finds, while three lodges offer a little more privacy and views over fields or kitchen plots. Two bedrooms are dog-friendly and one has a log burner – perfect for a cosy afternoon snooze in front of the fire after a stomp through the surrounding countryside. Follow with a beautifully prepared supper and a comfy bed for a weekend reset that'll see you through to Christmas.

theholcombe.com

SIGN OF THE ANGEL

The ancient village of Lacock may be famous for its appearances in TV period dramas like Downton Abbey, but the village's real star is this charming 15th‑century coaching inn. All wonky beams, crackling logs and candlelight, it's a hugely atmospheric spot for an autumn weekender.

Its two - AA - rosette culinary offering lives up to the splendid setting, and centres on Modern British cooking crafted from local ingredients. No weekender should conclude without sampling the fabulous Sunday lunch, which includes the likes of roast rump of beef with treacle beef croquette and horseradish cream.

Bedrooms are dressed for comfort with feather duvets, duck - down pillows and homemade welcome treats. There's also a guests - only sitting room for chilling out between feasts and countryside adventures. ››

signoftheangel.co.uk

Image: Faydit Photography

THE COTLEY INN

On the Cotley Estate at the foot of the Blackdown Hills in Somerset, this 17th century inn blends rural charm with a seriously good food game and warm hospitality.

Seasonal menus range from fine cooking like walnut-crusted duck with szechuan sauce to casual eats such as bratwurst and wood‑fired pizza in the garden, so you can mix it up on a weekend away. Everything is sourced hyper locally, including vegetables from the kitchen garden and meat from the field across the road. Sunday lunches are a robust affair featuring yorkies the size of your head and tankards of proper ale.

All bedrooms in the Grade II-listed former stables come with goose-down duvets, Egyptian cotton sheets and birdsong, but for the best room in the house book The Holt. The stylish barn conversion is set over two floors and features a king-size bed, roll-top bath and spacious living space.

cotleyinnwambrook.co.uk

There's magic to be found at The Old Coastguard in the fishing village of Mousehole. From its scrubbed wooden tables to the palm - fringed terrace, everything leans into its Cornish coastal setting – right down to a menu dictated by whatever the Newlyn dayboats bring ashore.

Head chef Danny Garland (ex‑Ottolenghi) doesn't just stop at fish, though: local meats, cheeses and inventive plant-based dishes get their due in a brasserie - style menu that's casual but accomplished. Feast on dishes like monkfish with whipped cod's roe, kimchi butter and mussels, or head to The Crab Shack in the sea-facing garden for easy eats like brown-crab toasties and scallops in the half-shell with seaweed butter.

The addition of guest rooms gazing over Mount's Bay, Vispring beds, an award-winning bar and sea air make The Old Coastguard a potent remedy for the stresses of a busy working week.

oldcoastguardhotel.co.uk

THE BATH ARMS

On the edge of the Longleat Estate in Wiltshire, The Bath Arms balances heritage charm with quietly luxurious touches. Inside, the bar buzzes with chatter over pints of traditional ale and world-class wines, while the restaurant delivers unpretentious seasonal fare that's rooted in the landscape.

Chef Jack Chapman's menus shift with the seasons, featuring meat and game from the estate, venison from Dartmoor, daily landed fish from the south coast and comforting puds like apple crumble to share.

Sixteen bedrooms, set across the main house and former stables, feature crisp cotton sheets, Bramley bath products (a sister business) and a soothing Wiltshire-inspired palette. •

batharmsinn.com

Image: Paul Massey

THE FULL WORKS

The Nare

Abi Manning basks in the pleasures of luxe old-school hospitality at the seaside

Fresh lobster at The Nare

We South West locals know we're very lucky to live in this lovely corner of the world – and are usually quite evangelical about sharing its appeal. So when friends from the city come to stay, we make sure their time isn't just spent soaking up the scenery, but that they also get to experience the South West lifestyle that makes this region so special.

And that's exactly the premise of a stay at The Nare. Guests are treated as friends, welcomed with warm hospitality, wrapped in comfort and offered a taste of Cornish life at its most refined. It's little wonder so many return year after year.

TIME-HONOURED TRADITION

The Nare is one of an increasingly rare breed of uber-trad hotels. In a sector leaning into Scandi minimalism, small plates and casual vibes, this proudly nails its colours to the mast as a luxurious old-school hotel that does formality with buckets of charm.

Its proprietor, Toby Ashworth, is a hotelier by blood. For over a century, his family have owned and run hotels in Cornwall – he was even raised in one. The Nare was acquired by Toby's grandmother in the eighties and he took over its stewardship in 2000.

So it's no surprise that visitors feel like they're staying at Toby's country house by the sea. Like any good host, he ensures his charges are enjoying themselves and spends time checking in during his weekly Champagne reception or at afternoon tea in the drawing room.

A SENSE OF PLACE

On entering the hotel (note the large shovel behind the door for competitive sandcastle building), most guests don't clock the reception desk, thanks to the mesmeric draw of the glittering ocean vista that steals all attention.

These views, which are the result of The Nare sitting right above beautiful Carne Beach, are maximised at every turn. Each table in the hotel's two restaurants (The Dining Room and The Quarterdeck) has a view of the coast, the outdoor pool overlooks the ocean, and the beach-house hot tub allows guests to gaze across rippling seas to a rugged headland.

Get the ocean connection in every element of the stay by pushing the boat out and booking a sea-view suite. Sipping a glass of sherry from the in-room decanter while surveying the big blue beyond your private balcony is the perfect way to melt away travel-related tension. In the mornings, greet the day with the gentle sea breeze on your face as you enjoy, alfresco, your delivery of fresh coffee and a newspaper – blankets are provided to stave off any autumn chill.

Further seaside thrills can be discovered by following the garden path to the beach where shoreside strolls, ocean dips and rockpooling await. The beach connects with the South West Coast Path, which leads directly back to the hotel, so walkers can easily explore the surrounding coastline. Can't hack the return hike? Call the hotel and they'll send a driver to sweep you back to comfort. ››

Clockwise from top left: the Alice Rose; Abi in the hot tub; suite with a view; afternoon tea by the fire

SEAFOOD AND SILVER SERVICE

The sea - inspired synergy continues in The Quarterdeck Restaurant. It's been reimagined of late with the aim of becoming a premier destination for Cornish seafood. The menu certainly reads like a celebration of the bountiful south coast and our starter of St Mawes octopus comprised a curled tentacle on a bed of corn velouté with a jalapeño and passionfruit glaze, crunchy quinoa tuile and chimichurri. Rich Portloe crab, meanwhile, was lifted by a quartet of fresh flavours: avocado, lemongrass, tomato and grapefruit.

Mains continue the maritime tale, with the ocean theme even lent to dishes more traditionally rooted in the land. A meaty monkfish wellington, encased in prawn mousse, was accompanied by a potato terrine and heritage carrots, zapped with curried warmth courtesy of cumin and vadouvan.

Need to know

Must

pack Gladrags for a dressy dinner

If you do one thing

Hit the high seas on the Alice Rose

Insider tip

Guests staying in a suite receive a complimentary 20-minute spa treatment

Regionally sourced ingredients also show up in desserts like Tregothnan Estate Earl Grey Tea-injected crème brûlée with honey and hazelnut.

While The Quarterdeck is relatively informal (non-residents are welcome and it even has a small dog-friendly dining area), The Dining Room is the spot for trad five‑course table d'hôte dining. Classic silver service, a daily changing menu, an hors d'oeuvres trolley and guéridon‑served flambés all bring the vibe. Its theatre and flourish makes dinner an occasion – which is reflected in guests' attire of jackets and ties and fancy frocks.

Toby's love affair with wine is evident in an extensive cellar that offers a treasure trove of exceptional bottles from across the globe, plus a few from local vineyards.

BESPOKE BREAK

If a visiting chum was an outdoorsy, adrenaline-seeking sort, you wouldn't plan their stay around spa lounging. Just as you wouldn't create an itinerary of watersports, hiking and tennis for someone who prefers curling up with a good book. And in just this way, The Nare ensures each guest enjoys a holiday experience perfectly tailored to their tastes. The team discover personal preferences ahead of arrival and put in place appropriate activities.

That might mean booking a soothing facial in one of the treatment rooms, arranging complimentary tennis tuition, or coordinating a cruise aboard the hotel's elegant boat the Alice Rose. Guests can also borrow hotel kayaks for a paddle around the bay or flex their creative muscles in an art session with resident artist Jeannie.

The possibilities are abundant at this bespoke Cornish resort. In fact, it's difficult to pack it all in during one stay ... see you next year. •

The Nare Carne Beach, Veryan-in-Roseland, Cornwall, TR2 5PF narehotel.co.uk

TRIED AND TESTED

Praktyka jewellery workshop

Jo Rees slips into a flow state at a creative ring-making session in rural Devon

Images: Ania Wawrzkowicz

‘The quiet process of wax carving to create pieces which will then be cast in silver or gold’

What?

An opportunity to craft silver jewellery in the Devon countryside using the traditional art of wax carving.

Ania Wawrzkowicz is one of the founders of Praktyka, a creative retreat in north Devon that she runs with her husband Henry. Together, they've created a magical sanctuary in the countryside where guests can stay in pods, barns or a geodesic dome, surrounded by wild gardens and sprawling farmland.

An experienced artist, photographer and jewellery maker, Ania trained in fine art at the University of the Arts London, LCC and Camberwell College of Art.

Since moving to Devon six years ago to create Praktyka with Henry, she's run jewellery workshops from its airy studio, sharing with her students the quiet process of wax carving to create pieces which will then be cast in silver or gold.

Why?

It's broadening to learn something new and step outside your normal life for a while. However, those taking one of Ania's workshops for entertainment will find the experience delivers much more than fleeting distraction.

Her gentle warmth and the bucolic surroundings lull visitors into a state of tranquil peacefulness. It's the kind of environment that lets you crack the surface of modern life and sink into a flow state, directed by your creative self instead of your to-do list.

The studio is a meditative oasis of blond wood, with picture windows framing frothy hedgerows, and benches crammed with tools and materials. A wood burner makes it cosy, while a generous collection of coffees, herbal teas, fruit and dark chocolate keeps the energy levels buoyant. ››

Ania making jewellery in her studio

Experience elevated gastronomy without the fine dining price tag.

From housemade canapés to intricate petit fours, everything at this intimate restaurant in Truro city centre is crafted in‑house to deliver a feast for the senses. 5

Ania says rings are the most popular item to make in the three-hour session as they're manageable in the time period. Couples also visit to make unique wedding bands for each other.

After perusing Ania's own pieces – which include silver and gold rings in different styles, some with inset stones – for inspiration, we set to work sizing up and sawing wax cylinders to the depth of ring we want to create.

The process involved filing the hard wax, working at it continuously to shape it into the desired design. This alchemy of quiet repetition, concentration and imagination produces an original one‑off – the wax is burnt away during the casting process so can't be used again.

‘The process lends itself to organic, textured, sculptural pieces,’ says Ania.‘It's actually closer to sculpture than metalsmithing.’

Verdict?

A special experience. The afternoon delivered quiet pleasure punctuated by laughter –and the anticipation of receiving the design cast in silver.

Recommend to friends?

Definitely. Better still, go with them. The sessions can accommodate up to six at a time. Or turn it into a weekend away and stay a couple of nights in one of the Praktyka pods.

How to do it

Book via the website. There's no set diary; Ania is easygoing and coordinates with customers to find a time that's mutually convenient. A three-hour one-to-one session costs £150; a private group of up to six costs £85 per person and the four‑hour wedding rings workshop costs £265 per couple. This doesn't include the cost of casting, which depends upon the metal chosen. • aniajewellery.com praktyka.co.uk

For more inspo, read ‘5 of the best creative workshops in the South West’ on our website

Ania in the workshop

‘Just a delightful place to be’ Jay Rayner, The Observer

Weekend cooking

Get stuck into wet walnuts, cheese for autumn feasting, and Scott Paton's recipe for the best cheeseboard biscuit

Fermented walnuts and accompaniments at Iford Manor, page 64

Image: Guy Harrop

Wet walnuts & fermented fruits

Iford Manor Kitchen's executive chef Matthew Briddon introduces Jo Rees to the mother of all cheese accompaniments –and reveals how to make them at home

by Guy Harrop

Photographs

Pickled walnuts may be a cheeseboard classic, but fermented walnuts? Who even knew they were a thing? Well, Iford Manor's executive chef Matthew Briddon, for one.

Matt is a fermentation fiend who crams vegetable offcuts and garden produce gluts into jars that line his roomy fermentation cupboard. Ostensibly, his objective is to use up ingredients from Iford's restaurant and gardens that would otherwise go to waste, but clearly he also gets a creative thrill from his adventures with Kilner jars.

Matthew gave walnuts a whirl when the estate's head gardener Steve Lannin delivered a pile to his kitchen door late last summer. Steve wasn't convinced the nuts from one of the walnut trees in Iford's astonishing garden would ripen, so asked Matthew if he could do anything with them. And the chef, working on the premise that most things when fermented become more delicious, took on the challenge.

‘Burping helps mitigate the risk as it lets excess gas escape’

He washed and dried the nuts and stuck them in a jar filled with brine, adding a little birch sap for sweetness. Six months later, the soft fruit (like pickled walnuts but green, sweet and full of umami character) were ready – and stunningly delicious.

Matthew explains: ‘Sugar – whether birch sap, honey or even brown sugar – revs up the fermentation process because it feeds the bacteria. It also alters the flavour in a good way.’

He serves the fermented walnuts with bitingly sharp Westcombe Mature Cheddar, his own fermented wild-garlic leaves and homemade sourdough crackers. It's a veritable feast crafted out of foraged finds and surprisingly simple ingredients. ››

If you want to ferment walnuts at home, the trickiest part is getting hold of fresh walnuts in the first place. Lucky you if you've got a walnut tree (or a friend with one). Failing that, ask your greengrocer if they can source them at market.

Matthew says: ‘Make a three per cent salt brine and add sweetness – maple syrup, black treacle, brown sugar or honey will all do the job. Three tablespoons is about right for a two-litre jar, but you can do it to taste.

‘It's as simple as that really. Just make sure you run the jar through the dishwasher or rinse with boiling water first to sterilise it. Cover the walnuts with brine and place a saucer or muslin on top of the nuts to hold them down. It's essential they stay submerged.

‘Then leave them for six months or so out of sunlight and where there are no strong odours as they will pick up flavour. Definitely don't keep them under the sink with the bleach! However, because they absorb flavours easily you can spice them up by adding nutmeg, cinnamon and rosemary to the brine.’

If you can't get your hands on fresh walnuts, Matthew suggests using the same technique with dried, shelled walnuts (the kind that crown Walnut Whips).

‘When you ferment them in the same way they're called “wet walnuts” and are a brilliant addition to a cheeseboard.

‘Use the same sweetened brine mix and the same process and when they're fully fermented, in six months or so, they'll be soft. You can squash them like you would garlic; they make a really good pesto. They're also great in sauces served with game.’

Does adding sugar to fermenting ingredients increase the likelihood of the jar exploding or the whole thing turning to alcohol? ‘That's something you've got to watch.’ says Matthew. ‘I've definitely had some disasters over the years, but it's about keeping an eye on them and knowing how far to go before you strain it off.’

Burping helps mitigate the risk as it removes excess gas from the Kilner jar. Matthew suggests burping your jars once a week or, if you're going away on holiday, using an elastic band (tied around the metal clasp of the jar) to keep the jar closed, instead of locking it shut. Then, when the pressure builds, the gas can push the lid open a little and escape. • ifordmanor.co.uk

Next issue, Matt teaches us how to dry-cure meats.

The magnificent seven

Cheese is better in autumn than any other time of the year, says Jane Rakison, who gets advice on seven stonking cheeses for a killer cheeseboard

Image: Sarah Maingot

While most people go on a cheese frenzy in the festive season, autumn is arguably the very best time to devour slices, wedges and rondelles of the good stuff.

Not only does cheese pair perfectly with the season's bounty of apples, pears, figs and plums but, as the days shorten and the temperatures drop, we naturally lean towards richer and more comforting flavours for that hug-on-a-plate moment.

However, the main reason for celebrating cheese in autumn is that this is when many cheeses possess extra flavour. Two main factors contribute to this boost in complexity. First, a change in animals' diets from fresh pasture to hay and drier feeds produces a fuller body and more complex flavours. Second, by the time autumn comes round, cheese made from the nutrient-rich milk of late spring and summer will have matured in both texture and flavour.

Which are the best cheeses to scoff at this time of year? We asked Debbie Daniel from cheese experts Harvey & Brockless to share her pick of the pack for a killer autumn cheeseboard.

CHEDDAR

Classic farmhouse cheddars are often made with milk from late spring and summer grazing, which is then aged for 12 months or more. The richer milk from the end of the grazing season can contribute to a more profound taste. By autumn they've developed an incredible depth of flavour and tanginess, with a firm yet crumbly texture.

Keens, Somerset

Debbie says: ‘This renowned cheese (above) is made by the Keen family who have been making cheese since 1899 using milk from their own herd of british friesians. The truckles are made traditionally then clothbound and matured for 12 months. This produces a rich, creamy flavour with a hint of citrus on the finish. It complements fruits such as apples and pears, plus it pairs brilliantly with Pinot Noir.’ ››

Image: Sarah Maingot

GOAT

Many traditional goat's cheeses benefit from longer ripening periods. Cheeses made from spring and summer milk have matured by autumn, developing complex, nutty and sometimes earthy notes that nicely reflect the season.

Driftwood, Somerset

Debbie says: ‘This is an award-winning, log-shaped, ash-covered goat's milk cheese (left) made by White Lake. It offers a delightful combination of citrusy brightness and subtle saltiness complemented by earthy and peppery undertones. The texture is mousse-like when young, becoming richer, creamier and more gooey as it matures. It's great with salads or a glass of dry English Bacchus.’

Eve, Somerset

‘This award-winning soft goat's cheese is known for its creamy, nutty flavour and unique preparation method: the cheese is washed in Somerset Cider Brandy and wrapped in vine leaves (below). This process contributes to its soft texture and distinctive nutty and lemon flavour profile. It pairs beautifully with fresh fruits and charcuterie.’

WASHED RIND

Known for their pungent aromas and creamy interiors, washed-rind cheeses are more suited to the cool and humid conditions of autumn. The washing process encourages specific bacteria on the rind, which thrive at this time of year and contribute to the cheese's distinctive flavour profile being “meaty” and savoury.

Rachel, Somerset

Debbie says: ‘This is a semi-hard goat's milk cheese made by White Lake. Subtle sweetness and nutty flavour with a mellow, sweet paste underneath the orange/ yellow mottled rind makes it accessible for those who usually find these cheeses too strong. It has a pleasing melt‑in‑the‑mouth texture and is great for stuffing in chicken or adding to lasagne.’

Solstice, Somerset

‘This semi-soft cheese (above) is made with rich and creamy Guernsey cow's milk and is washed in Somerset Cider Brandy. It's known for its mild sweetness, nutty flavour, gentle acidity and its similarities to cheeses from the Champagne region. Solstice is often described as indulgent and spicy and is renowned for pairing well with sparkling wine.’ ››

BLUE

Blue cheeses come into their own in autumn as their strong, savoury and sometimes spicy notes evoke a sense of comfort and warmth. They're also substantial and satisfying and their ideal ripeness stage often aligns with the cooler months.

Devon Blue

Debbie says: ‘This is a handcrafted blue cheese made from quality cow's milk collected locally in the South Hams. It's matured for six to eight months, and is known for its rich buttery texture. It offers a gentle tang with earthy undertones and a subtle sweetness. Pair with red dessert wines like port.’

Harbourne Blue, Devon

‘Made by Ticklemore Cheese Company from pasteurised goat's milk, this is aged for just ten weeks. It has a creamy and crumbly texture, a clean yogurt aroma and offers a fresh, slightly floral taste with hints of sweetness. Harbourne Blue pairs beautifully with sweet wines.’ •

Image: Sarah Maingot

Lemon‑thyme digestives

Scott Paton of Michelin-starred Àclèaf near Plymouth shares his recipe for this classy cheeseboard accompaniment

Oat flour 200g

Wholemeal flour 200g

Bicarbonate of soda 1 tsp

Light brown sugar 140g

Oat milk 8 tbsp

Butter 300g, melted

Lemon thyme 10g, chopped

1 Mix (preferably using a K-beater) all the dried ingredients together with the oat milk.

2 Add the melted butter until the mixture combines.

3 Roll the dough out between sheets of baking paper and leave it to rest in the fridge for an hour.

4 Once rested, preheat the oven to 160C, then cut the mixture into the desired shape.

5 Bake for 8 minutes or until the edges turn golden.

Experience Scott's Michelin-starred cooking at Àclèaf, located at Boringdon Hall Hotel in Devon.

acleaf.co.uk

NEVER HAVE A BAD COFFEE AGAIN

The UK's leading coffee guides reveal the very best places to find stunning speciality grade coffee at cafes across the UK. Guides available for: London; the South; the North, Midlands and East; Scotland; and Wales. Shop the full range, new app and merch at indycoffee.guide  indycoffeeguide

Drinks

Crack open the story on South West stouts, discover why English still wines are having a moment, and mix up an autumnal Tom Collins

FIVE OF THE BEST

Englishstill wines

Jane Rakison reveals why English still wines are currently in vogue – and shares five to bookmark

Image:Benjamin Pryor

Ask anyone in the wine trade which style turned the UK into a respectable wine producer and the answer will be: sparkling. Still wines have been playing catch-up for two decades, but they're finally getting the attention – and awards – they deserve.

In this year's Wine GB Awards, still wines delivered a record performance on the medals front, with South West producers playing a key role in a dynamic new chapter of the English wine story.

UK still wines tend to fall into one of two categories. The first is still wines made with the varietals typically used to make top-brass sparkling wines. These are the grapes also found in Champagne, such as Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and, occasionally, Pinot Blanc. In our ever-warming climate, these grapes are now maturing well enough to make excellent still wines.

The other category is wines made with unusual grape varieties that, previously, people didn't recognise – and usually couldn't pronounce. Although grown here for many years, they began to be snubbed when the UK wine scene starting building its reputation as a serious player.

Today, it's a different story. Bursting with confidence and boasting a haul of competition medals, these lesser-known varieties are much better accepted. And rightly so; they can be just as delicious as any of their better-known counterparts.

Crammed with elderflower and lemon flavours, this Bacchus has had its complexity elevated a notch after some of it went into oak barrels. This doesn't affect the pingy freshness; it just delivers an extra layer of body and peachy flavour. Drink with pan seared scallops.

£18, wraxallvineyard.co.uk

This super-tasty blend of Bacchus with Schönburger has an extra dimension of character thanks to a small portion having spent time in barrel. The famously floral aroma of Bacchus is followed by a creamy texture, then a tangy finish. Enjoy with sesame prawn toast. ››

£14.85, bowinthecloud.co.uk

Wraxall, Estate Bacchus 2023, Somerset (12.5%)

Bow in the Cloud, Cloud Nine 2023, Wiltshire (12.5%)

Smith and Evans, Higher Plot Chardonnay 2023, Somerset (12%)

With ripe and rich aromas of toasted almonds and banana chips, this unfiltered and unfined (and therefore vegan friendly) wine has a lovely earthy and creamy balance. Drink with a rich autumn veg dish like lentil and cauliflower pilaf. £28, smithandevans.co.uk

Carvers Hill, Rosé 2024, Wiltshire (12.5%)

From brand-spanking-new winery Carvers Hill (a name to remember), this rosé is the vineyard's very first release. A blend of Pinot Noir and its cousin Pinot Noir Précoce, this dry pink wine has a fresh salinity with masses of cranberry and pomegranate crunch. Drink with beetroot and hazelnut salad.

£27, carvershillestate.com

Lily Farm, Jurassic Red 2022, Dorset (11%)

This smooth autumnal red is a marriage of two grapes that like to ripen early – handy in the cooler UK climate. Together, Pinot Noir Précoce and Rondo give this red plenty of earthy hedgerow berry flavours. It's vegan friendly too, and perfect with wild-mushroom risotto. •

£17.95, lilyfarmvineyard.com

Above: Carvers Hill Rosé and Lily Farm vineyard

JANE RAKISON'S DRINKS DIARY

Shout-outfor stout

Our drinks expert indulges in the ultimate autumn nectar and reveals three South West stouts for your seasonal sip-list

Oozing with deep and decadent flavours, stout is the ultimate autumn drink. Often labelled a one-trick-pony, nothing could be further from the truth. Dark, creamy and smooth may be the generic style, but its flavours ebb and flow from chocolate to coffee, smoke to biscuits, nuts to caramel and more besides.

The best-known style is the dry or Irish stout, which is super-dark with tonnes of roasted flavours. It's the bold stout choice (together with imperial stout) and often has a higher alcohol content.

Milk stout is usually brewed with lactose and these extra sugars can give a touch more sweetness. Oat stouts have a proportion of oats in the barrel, giving them a creamy taste which works wonders with dessert or cake. And, for a smooth and velvety character, chocolate stouts are brewed using roasted dark malts. The richness that categorises all stouts can be traced back to the malt and smoked barley used in the brewing process.

Whichever style you choose, pour it at an angle and with care – a tulipshaped glass is the best way to preserve the liquid ebony's smaller bubbles.

Mena Dhu, St Austell Brewery, Cornwall (4.5%)

The flagship stout of this historic Cornish brewery is named after founder Walter Hicks' family farm Mena Dhu, which translates as ‘black hill’. Brewed with a careful combination of malts, its creaminess sweeps over the palate effortlessly. Flavours begin with an autumnal wood-smoke aroma and hint of liquorice, while the palate reveals a dark-chocolate richness. Serve cool rather than chilled and match with black forest trifle.

staustellbrewery.co.uk

This Time Next Year Rodney, Arbor, Bristol (6%)

Crafting great ales in Bristol since 2007, Arbor produces a number of stouts including, for ultra decadence, a Mississippi Mud Pie stout. This Time Next Year Rodney is a caramel and chocolate shortbread stout that, true to its name, tastes like liquid millionaire's shortbread. It shows off a lovely creamy depth and has a nice freshness to finish, thanks to the salted caramel coming through. Serve cool rather than chilled and devour with a super-tangy cheddar.

arborales.co.uk

Milkshake, Wiper and True, Bristol (5.6%)

Wiper and True uses cutting-edge technology to capture the carbon dioxide produced during its beers' fermentation. This is then channelled into other useful processes to prevent its release into the atmosphere. Even if it didn't boast eco creds, Milkshake delivers. It's a deliciously velvety and indulgent milk stout that, for all its richness, induces a fantastically bright and fresh sensation on the palate. As a result, it's a great choice for stout beginners. Pair with smoky barbecue ribs and serve cool instead of chilled. • wiperandtrue.com

Warmer in winter, cooler in summer

15 years’ experience cra ing award-winning insulation for period and listed properties, without compromising their historic character. Our bespoke insulation solutions include handcra ed shutters, virtually invisible secondary glazing, sheep’s wool lo and floor insulation, heritage-friendly restoration, and discreet draught proo ng.

Find more information by searching for ‘Mitchell & Dickinson’ or scan the QR code. Call our friendly team on 0333 772 4124

AutumnGlow Collins

Give your regular Tom Collins an autumnal glow-up with this recipe from Witchmark Distillery in Wiltshire

Makes 1

Witchmark Wiltshire

Single Origin Gin 60ml

Fresh lemon juice 30ml

Sugar syrup 25ml

Artisan medium/sweet cider 90ml

Sparkling water 60ml, or to taste

Dehydrated apple slice to garnish

1 Fill a highball glass with ice.

2 Pour the gin, lemon juice and sugar syrup into a cocktail shaker and fill with ice.

3 Secure the lid and shake vigorously for 15 seconds.

4 Strain the contents into the glass over the ice.

5 Add the cider, then top with sparkling water to taste.

6 Stir gently and add apple garnish.

witchmark.co.uk

The Wellington Win a great escape at

The Wellington in Boscastle is one of the oldest coaching inns in Cornwall. It perches on the South West Coast Path and has been feeding and watering passersby since the 16th century.

The pub, which is owned and run by St Austell Brewery, recently received a massive makeover and now offers significant swoon appeal as well as historical charm.

The bedrooms enjoy serious bougie factor. Plush natural materials, squishy beds and all the mod cons make

The Wellington's sleeping quarters a find for a dreamy getaway in this picturesque corner of Cornwall.

Boscastle is a fascinating village with wonky rooftops, crooked cottages and a picturesque harbour. It's also home to the Museum of Witchcraft and Magic, quaint teashops and charming indie stores.

Walkers like to base themselves in the village as it's surrounded by hiking routes through rugged countryside and along the coast.

Finish a day on the trail with a hearty dinner (a choice of pub-classic favourites or more contemporary dishes) and a pint of something good from the raft of St Austell Brewery beers.

PRIZE A two-night stay for two people at The Wellington in Boscastle.

QUESTION In which county will you find The Wellington?

wellingtonhotelboscastle.com

Sidmouth Donkey Sanctuary Win lunch at

Imagine indulging in farm-fresh dishes while feasting your eyes on pretty pastoral scenes of donkeys grazing in paddocks, Devon's rolling hills and the Jurassic Coast.

The winner of our competition, plus a lucky companion, will get guaranteed window seats when they tuck into lunch at The Kitchen, the Taste of the West award-winning restaurant at Sidmouth Donkey Sanctuary.

Everything is made on-site in a menu that includes stonebaked pizzas, speciality wraps and burgers, all crafted from local and seasonal produce. Light nibbles, such as halloumi bites with hot honey, are perennially popular with the flock of animal lovers who visit the sanctuary to experience its award-winning gardens and adorable residents.

Once our winners have satiated their appetites, they can either sit and soak up the views across the veranda or roam through one of the Sanctuary's many

scenic trails and walks and make some new four-hoofed friends along the way. For the cute factor, a stop off at the Dawn Barn, which houses miniature donkeys, is a must.

The pair will also get a chance to discover more about the work of this remarkable charity that transforms the lives of millions of donkeys worldwide.

PRIZE Lunch and drinks at a window table for two at The Kitchen in Sidmouth Donkey Sanctuary.

QUESTION What's the name of the building where the miniature donkeys are stabled? thedonkeysanctuary.org.uk

Win an Essential Spa Break at

Budock Vean Hotel and Spa

Just the mere utterance of the word ‘spa’ conjures up images of relaxed watery bliss. For those in search of an aquatic antidote to stress, the superb experience at Budock Vean Hotel and Spa offers the prospect of profoundly peaceful pampering.

If you love dressing up for dinner and joyful routes to bucolic wellbeing, then the 65 acre secluded Cornish estate on a quiet bend of the Helford River should be your go-to.

Autumn and winter enticements during an Overnight Essential Spa Break include an indoor swimming pool and an aspen wood Finnish sauna. Weather permitting, such restorative water-and-heat therapies are best gilded with a sesh in the outdoor hot tub. This bubbling cauldron of calm sits on a super-chic Scandinavian-style raised deck with views across the gardens.

The lovely rural surroundings also set the tone for a nature-centic, hour-long spa treatment using GAIA products. Choose from GAIA journeys (experiences that awaken, calm or balance the body and mind), facials and body treatments.

Once the power of touch and essential oils have worked their magic on skin and muscles, a sumptuous dinner completes the day of indulgence. Classic cooking is showcased in dishes such as pan-fried breast of guinea fowl followed by baked chocolate mousse.

Following a night's tranquil slumber in a restful contemporary room, a trad brekkie awaits. Forget chia seeds or smashed avo, health and wellbeing at this hotel comes in the form of a VisitEngland Award-winning feast that includes cereals, juices, freshly baked bread and a hearty cooked breakfast of your choice.

PRIZE An Overnight Essential Spa Break for two which includes breakfast, dinner, use of the Natural Health Spa facilities and a 60 minute spa treatment each.

QUESTION The gardens and golf course at Budock Vean Hotel and Spa lead down to which Cornish river?

budockvean.co.uk

Food Lifestyle directory

Join our subcriber tribe!

Food Lifestyle supports the region's food, hospitality and lifestyle culture and champions independent businesses. If you'd like to support Food Lifestyle magazine, join the cause and become a subscriber. Get four seasonal issues delivered to your door, plus a weekly email newsletter with new openings and hot finds. £25 per year.

food-mag.co.uk/subscribe

Marshford Organic Foods

Visit Marshford's farm shop in Northam, north Devon, for a fabulous array of fresh and seasonal organic veggies, salads and herbs – many homegrown.

Local fish, meat, eggs, bread, dairy products (including a selection of interesting cheeses) and a wide variety of environmentally friendly and organic groceries are also available from the store, while veg boxes and produce can be delivered.

Visit the shop or order online for collection and local deliveries. marshford.co.uk

Bearslake Inn

Tucked away in Dartmoor National Park, Bearslake Inn is a 13th century thatched gastropub offering a warm welcome, exceptional food and six charming rooms.

With head chef Connor Smart at the helm, expect beautifully crafted dishes using the finest local ingredients. Unwind in the stunning pub garden with its stream, and take the dog too – it's very pooch friendly.

bearslakeinn.com

Indy Coffee Guide London app

Have the best speciality coffee in London at your fingertips at all times with the new Indy Coffee Guide London app. Only cafes and coffee shops that meet exacting standards are included. It's your passport to some outstanding coffee experiences.

indycoffee.guide

Penventon Park Hotel

Celebrate the art of flavour in the Dining Galleries Restaurant and Copper Bar of this lovely hotel. Indulgent dinners and traditional afternoon teas are complemented by an extensive wine and cocktail list and served in an inviting atmosphere that's perfect for both casual and special occasions.

penventon.co.uk

The Queen's Arms

At this lovely dining pub on the Dorset/Somerset border, the focus is on exceptional food – from pub classics to elevated dishes – made from locally sourced ingredients. This is bolstered by a wide selection of drinks and ten luxurious guestrooms. Dogs and muddy boots encouraged! thequeensarms.com

Restaurant Kensington

Visit this Exmoor restaurant to feast on exceptional local beef in a high-end steak experience. Smart fish, lamb and chicken dishes, plus a range of delicious sides, also feature on a menu built around local and seasonal produce. A contemporary and memorable dining experience.

restaurantkensington.co.uk

The Grey Lurcher

Browse luxury homewares and contemporary gifts at this Falmouth store. The shop stocks Annie Sloan chalk paint, luxury home fragrances from Illumens Candles, jewellery, greetings cards, French soap and other quality items.

greylurcherfalmouth.com

The Ilchester Arms

The weekly changing menu at this 16th century thatched pub in Symondsbury is crafted from superb local produce and complemented with natural wine and regional beers.

Open Wednesday to Sunday. ilchesterarmssymondsbury.co.uk

Find more Food Lifestyle online

Want another bite of the Food Lifestyle cherry? You'll find heaps of fresh features on our website, including travel guides, cool places to stay, recipes, interviews with tastemakers,‛Five of the best’ features, restaurant reviews and ‛Tried and Tested’ write ups. It's the insiders' guide to special finds across the South West.

food-mag.co.uk

Stockists

Here are just a few of the exceptional places you can pick up a copy of Food Lifestyle. Find the full list at food-mag.co.uk

Bath

Always Sunday Town + House

Beckford Bottle Shop

Chandos Deli

Colonna & Small's

Cortado Café

No.15 by GuestHouse Hotels

Picnic Coffee

Robun

The Fine Cheese Co.

The Royal Crescent

Cornwall

Beach House Falmouth

Bedruthan Hotel & Spa

Da Bara Bakery, St Mawes

Electric Bakery

Fee's Food

Fistral Beach Hotel and Spa

Great Cornish Food Store

Indidog

Jo & Co Home

Kota

Padstow Farm Shop

Porthminster Beach Café

Scarlet Hotel

St Kew Farmshop & Café

St Michaels Resort

St Moritz Hotel

Strong Aldofos

The Alverton Hotel

The Greenbank Hotel

The Grey Lurcher

The Headland Hotel, Cottages & Spa

The Idle Rocks

The Old Coastguard

The Square at Porthleven

Tinkture

Trevisker's Kitchen

Trudgian Farm Shop

Devon

Ashburton Cookery School

Ashburton Deli

Ben's Farm Shop

Boringdon Hall Hotel

Bovey Castle

Darts Farm

Gidleigh Park

Glebe House

Harbour Beach Club

Lympstone Manor

Marshford Organic Foods

Rangemoors

River Cottage

Riverford Field Kitchen

The Bull Inn, Totnes

The Cheese Larder

Lilac Bakery

The Lost Kitchen

The Millbrook Inn

The Salutation Inn

Waitrose Okehampton

Dorset

Acorn Inn

Crab House Cafe

Langham Wine Estate

Majestic Wine, Dorchester

RISE Market & Bakery

Seaside Boarding House

Soulshine

Summer Lodge Hotel

SWIM

The Club House

The Three Horseshoes

The Queen's Arms

Tom's Lyme Regis

Town Mill Bakery

Waitrose Bridport

Gloucestershire

Arc Espresso Bar + Deli

Daylesford Organic Farm

Ritual Coffee Roasters Bar & Kitchen

Scandinavian Coffee Pod

The Cheeseworks

The Slaughters Country Inn

Vinotopia

Somerset

Brown & Forrest

Chandos Deli

Dunster Living

FARA

Farrington's Farm

Flourish Food Hall

Holm

Homewood

Horrell & Horrell

Iford Manor Estate

Little Walcot

Lord Poulett Arms

MAKE

Number One Bruton

Teals

The Barrington Boar

The Bath Priory

The Cellarhand

The Cotley Inn

The Holcombe

The Manor House Inn, Ditcheat

The Talbot Inn

The Three Horseshoes, Batcombe

Vintage & Vine

White Row Farm Shop

Wiltshire

Little Rituals

Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa

Majestic Wine, Devizes

Majestic Wine, Marlborough

The Bath Arms

The Beckford Arms

The Bell & Crown

The Bradley Hare

The Dog & Gun Inn

The Fleur de Lys

The Great Bustard

The Grosvenor Arms

The Old Bell Hotel, Malmesbury

The Pembroke Arms

The Queen's Head