Food Lifestyle Magazine Autumn 2025

Autumn This season's best places to eat, stay, shop and visit in the South West

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2025 VOL 205

This season's best places to eat, stay, shop and visit in the South West

2025 VOL 204

2024/5 VOL 203

2025 VOL 206

This season's best places to eat, stay, shop and visit in the South West

This season's best places to eat, stay, shop and visit in the South West

Below and right: Wax-carving rings at Praktyka in Devon. Read about it on page 58

Editorial Abi Manning, Melissa Morris, Jane Rakison, Jo Rees, Rosanna Rothery, Selena Young Design Christopher Mulholland Publishing Charlotte Cummins, Tamsin Powell Accounts Richard Bailey Commercial/advertising Nick Cooper, Claire Fegan, Jeni Smith ‑ 01271 859182 Publisher Salt Media – ideas@saltmedia.co.uk, 01271 859299, saltmedia.co.uk Cover image Cold water dip at Source Spa, Saunton Sands Hotel. browser food-mag.co.uk

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Thanks to our clients for supporting the magazine that supports South West independent businesses. Copyright The contents of this magazine are fully protected by copyright and may not be reproduced without permission. Disclaimer We choose the businesses included in Food Lifestyle features based on editorial integrity. Sometimes, inclusions will be handpicked from clients with whom we have a commercial relationship. While every effort has been made to ensure that adverts, details and articles appear correctly, Food Lifestyle cannot accept responsibility for any loss or damage caused directly or indirectly by the contents of this publication. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of its publisher or editor. Print We're serious about protecting the planet, which is why we print using solvent‑free inks on FSC‑certified paper, working with a printer that holds ISO14001 certification for environmental good practice. Published 2025 ISSN 2977‑5582 (print) ISSN 2977‑5590 (online).

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id you know autumn is the very best time of year to eat cheese? Neither did I. Find out why in Jane's feature

on page 68. Armed with this knowledge, you'll soon be creating killer cheeseboards which also feature accompaniments like Scott Paton's incredible lemon-thyme digestive biscuits (get the recipe on page 73) and Matthew Briddon's fermented walnuts (page 64). Thank us later.

Autumn is also a prime time for a South West staycation. We've curated some very special insider's finds. Turn to page 50 to discover

There's loads more to discover in this issue,

exceptional rural dining pubs with rooms,

including my tried-and-tested review of a

and check out Abi's Cool Places to Stay on

wax-carving jewellery workshop in Devon

page 40. She also visited The Nare for this

(page 58) and seasonal cooking and eating tips

issue (page 54), while Rosanna slipped into

from the team at The Farm Table (page 36).

her Spa Inspector robe to review Saunton Sands Hotel's Source Spa (page 46).

Whether you're hunkering down or heading off this season, I know you'll find some

I was delighted to swing by an unexpectedly

delicious inspo.

brilliant new golf-and-dining experience in Cornwall, Selena visited Ogo at Bedruthan,

See you at Christmas.

Abi found a magical spot for dinner after a

Images: Ania Wawrzkowicz

Dartmoor stomp and Jane ate at Heydays in Exmouth. Read our reviews from page 25.

Jo Rees

We also spent time at one of our favourite

Editorial director and founder

spots for autumn feasting: The Lost Kitchen

Salt Media

near Tiverton. Rosanna met Tastemakers

 rees_jo

George and Aurora (page 14) and got the

browser food-mag.co.uk  foodlifestylesw

inside story on how they created such a special experience.

In the drinks section, Jane reveals five South West still wines to put on your hit list (page 76) and cracks open the story on locally brewed stouts (page 80).

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This

issue

20

14

46

40 58

68

F E AT U R E S 8. Eight things to do this season Our fave finds for autumn.

W E E K E N D

C O O K I N G

64. The fermenter: wet walnuts and fermented fruits Matthew Briddon introduces us to the

14. Tastemakers: George and Aurora Aykroyd Meet the couple behind The Lost Kitchen near Tiverton.

mother of all cheese accompaniments.

68. The magnificent seven Stonking cheeses for your

20. Bite size: Ollie Vernon Chewing the fat with the head chef of The Chagford Inn on Dartmoor.

autumn cheeseboard.

73. Lemon-thyme digestives Scott Paton shares his cheeseboard

E AT I N G

O U T

25. Restaurant reviews We visit Brasserie on the Bay, Ogo, Halwyn, Heydays and The Castle Inn.

36. Autumn feasting at The Farm Table Grilling George Dart and Tom Chivers for seasonal inspo.

biscuit recipe.

D R I N K S 76. Five of the best: English still wines They're having a moment!

80. Jane Rakison's drinks diary Our drinks expert indulges in the

T R AV E L 40. Cool places to stay Special spots for an autumn staycation.

46. The spa inspector: Source Spa A marine-inspired thermal journey at Saunton Sands Hotel in north Devon.

ultimate autumn nectar.

83. Autumn Glow Collins Give your Tom Collins a glow-up.

84. Win! Win a stay at

50. The curation: weekends in the wild

The Wellington in

Chunky knits and wellies at the ready ‑

Boscastle, lunch at

autumn getaways at smart rural inns and

Sidmouth Donkey

pubs with rooms.

Sanctuary and a spa break at Budock Vean

54. The full works: The Nare

Hotel and Spa.

The pleasures of luxe old-school hospitality at the seaside.

58. Tried and tested: Praktyka jewellery workshop Slip into a creative flow state in Devon.

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M O R E 88. Directory 90. Stockists

8 Things

to do this season 1. Stay snug in a wardrobe staple How much do we love a woollen vest? Let us count the ways. One of fashion's favourite capsule items, it's

Image: Genoveva Arteaga

the perfect way to weather autumn's changeable temperatures. Woolgatherers (woolgatherersworkshop.co.uk) makes this beautiful version, The Ferryman's Vest, using locally sourced yarn from Dartmoor. Just the thing to wear while hugging granite boulders.

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2. Love your dimples Up

your

coffee

game dimple

with

these

dinky

cups

from

EOT

Ceramics

(eotceramics.com) which are handcrafted in Cornwall. The dimples make the cup lovely to hold, and the range includes Glas (below), Porth (sea green) and Dor

3. Eat at Elly's When the news broke that one of our fave chefs, Elly Wentworth, was leaving The Angel in Dartmouth we were heartbroken – until we found out she was taking up the post of exec chef at the Refectory at Fowlescombe Farm (fowlescombe.com). Book your table at Devon's most exciting new rural retreat and see what she's creating with owngrown ingredients.

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Image: Jon Tonks

(stone and mauve).

paid full page needs approval Check where calamari is from - outstanding query with Liam

4. Scoff steak at Restaurant Kensington Our secret spot for steak is Restaurant Kensington (restaurantkensington.co.uk) in Lynton, north Devon.

Exmoor-reared

beef

is

showcased

in

a

top-drawer menu featuring unusual sharing cuts as well as the more commonly found fillet, rump and sirloin. The beef is treated with reverence by the chefs and paired with a plethora of sauces and sides like buttery smoked mash, beef-fat carrots and bacon-jam mac and cheese.

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Image: Faydit Photography

such as chateaubriand, tomahawk and porterhouse,

5. Join the commune Bruton-based

Commune

(commune.cc) creates plant-based bodycare

that's

rooted

in

sustainability. Its signature fragrance, Seymour, references ripe fruits and warming autumnal woody tones and is used across the whole range ‑ from hair care to perfume ‑ so you can layer it up.

6. Feast at Redruth's cool community hangout Housed in a funkily revived historic building in the heart of Redruth, the Buttermarket (buttermarket.org)

is

part

streetfood hangout, part cultural hub and part community living room. Six indie food traders serve up delicious eats while the central courtyard acts as the town's unofficial meet-up spot.

It's also a home for live music and local markets.

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7. Do breakfast, Indian style Move over, avo toast. There's a new kind of breakfast luring us from our beds on Saturday mornings, and it hails from India – by way of Bath.

Bandook (bandookkitchen.com) is not only rustling up delicious breakfast fare, but it's also helping kids at a Bath primary school. For every uttapam, kolkata roll or Bombay breakfast ordered at Bandook in Bath, a nourishing breakfast is supplied to the school's breakfast club. The restaurant also raises money for children thousands of miles away, as part of a collab with the Dream Centre Project charity in Mumbai.

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8. Spend the day at Bristol Harbour Image: Lisa Whiting Photography for Arnolfini

For culture, coffee, feasting and strolling, is there a better day out than a mooch around Bristol Harbour?

We like to start with a flat white at Little Victories (littlevics.co.uk) on Wapping Wharf, followed by a wander through Arnolfini (arnolfini.org.uk). Notable shows this autumn include exhibitions

by Sahara Longe (pictured, inset), Dana Awartani and Emma Talbot. Then we head to Harbour House (hhbristol.com) for a long lunch by the water.

The restaurant, in a 19th-century transit shed, champions quality produce in dishes like half a Cornish lobster with all the sides, and grilled octopus with romesco sauce, charred fennel and roast potatoes. Meat lovers will rate the steaks and Gloucester Old Spot pork chop. An excellent wine and cocktail list segues lunch into evening drinks in style.

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TA ST EM A KE R S

George and Aurora

Aykroyd

At The Lost Kitchen in a tiny Devon hamlet, George and Aurora curate natural treasures and craft casual dishes. It's a very special experience, finds Rosanna Rothery Photographs by Guy Harrop

P

erched on a hill in the tiny Devon hamlet of Chettiscombe, The Lost Kitchen is the epitome of bucolic rural eating.

Led by George and Aurora Aykroyd, this rustic feasting

barn emits the kind of genuine homespun charm that's rare – and getting rarer in an age of contrived renovations.

When the couple were first invited to turn what was once a dilapidated 19th-century linhay on the Knightshayes Estate (not to be confused with the National Trust Knightshayes Estate nearby) into a welcoming casual restaurant, George's mental cogs began to whir. From the outset, he wanted to create an experience that was authentic, unique and magical.

The barn had enjoyed incarnations as a cowshed, chicken farm, apple store and informal playground for village kids, so he was determined to reflect its heart-of-the-countryside heritage.

An eclectic CV (which includes film editor, builder, teacher and previous restaurant creator and owner) meant George had a suitcase of skills to call upon.

‘As with many things in life, I just answered a single question: “Why not?”’, he laughs.

As soon as he'd taken on the project, one of his earliest missions was to scour the hedges on the estate for treasure.

‘All the water troughs [now lining the terrace and planted up with clouds of fragrant catmint] were sitting in the hedgerows for free, because farmers leave them there when they start to leak due to rust,’ he says. ››

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‘That cast-iron piano frame,’ he says, pointing to a magnificent piece of garden sculpture, ‘was pulled out of the hedge and is now

‘Whatever the time of the day, something magical would happen with the lighting’

something of a curiosity.’

George put his practical skills to work and turned timber from the estate into magnificent long feasting tables, while a slice of thick tree trunk became the gnarly underpinning for a circular glass table.

The quirkery didn't stop there. His eye for the unusual saw him fashioning a table from a coffin support – one of his prized finds from a local reclamation yard – and handmaking

Homeliness and warmth

a ginormous blind. For the latter, he tracked

Aurora is a former chef who worked

the sun on a spreadsheet to ensure that,

alongside renowned Somerset restaurateur

whatever the time of the day, ‘something

Sally Edwards. She does the branding and

magical would happen with the lighting’.

visual identity for the restaurant, liaising

The result of all this originality and

with head chef Jason Mead.

repurposing is a restaurant with authentic

She enjoys researching dishes which are

rural charm that feels like the antithesis of

underpinned by kitchen-garden veg and

fashionable-but-faux farmhouse chic.

edible flora, local seasonal produce and

Lunchtimes are festooned with big

traditional countryside skills such as

atmospheric skies thanks to floor-to-ceiling

fermenting and breadmaking.

windows, while evening feasting is cosy

‘We try to have something unique about each dish,

and intimate as the characterful stone walls

while at the same time keeping that homeliness,

and exposed roof trusses reflect the golden

warmth and softness,’ she says. ‘I was born

glow of soft lighting.

in France and my French grandmother was an

‘It's never a disappointment when people come

excellent cook so, for me, it's all about creating

up the steps and let out a sigh of relaxation,’

a nostalgic vibe.’

says George. ‘You can just sense their

Menus are shaped around a curation of

shoulders dropping.’

sharing plates, small morsels and larger dishes, and in the open-plan kitchen there's always marinating, infusing, preserving and brewing (the restaurant makes its own beer and cider) underway. ››

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Flame-licked feasts

Enjoying a moment

George and Aurora started out in business

George and Aurora's original brief was

together cooking sourdough pizzas in

to make The Lost Kitchen accessible

a mobile wood-fired oven. So it was a

to the community, something they

given that fire would be at the heart of

continually strive to do.

The Lost Kitchen.

‘We've always wanted to stay true to the

A black beast of a hot smoker, which sits on

informality of the building, which is why you

the terrace, was discovered by George half

can turn up in a T-shirt and jeans just as much

buried under weeds in a field. He dragged it

as you can dress up,’ says Aurora.

back to The Lost Kitchen where it now adds

George adds: ‘We want people to feel like they've

flavour to fish and meat.

been on holiday when they visit, and stepped

The restaurant is also renowned for its

away from normal life for a moment.’

flame-licked sourdough pizzas.

•

lostkitchen.co.uk

‘Put any pizza in a home oven and it just beigely idles along, but when cooked over fire the water turns into steam which creates a delicious crust,’ says George. ‘When you do that with dough that's 72 hours' old, the result is fantastic.’

TA S T E M A K E R T I P - O F F S

Autumnal fruitfulness

Insider's pick for French food?

Autumn is a particularly special time of year

‘I recommend littlefrench in Bristol,’ says

at the restaurant.

Aurora. ‘A lovely family-run eatery for a delicious, relaxed and unpretentious night out.’

‘There is that glorious moment when everything begins to lose its green and go back to its original

Favourite restaurant?

structure. It's a gentle nudge that you should be

‘We like Italian restaurant Emilia in Ashburton, which is run like a small osteria and takes a similar approach to seasonal ingredients

looking for the wood pile and starting to get ready for winter,’ says George.

On the estate, as well as pickling and

to us,’ says George.

preserving, that means harvesting apples from 450 ancient trees to create the house-

Favourite lesser-known find?

fermented Wylde Cider.

‘We like to go for a curry on Barricane Beach in Woolacombe, north Devon’ says George. ‘We once went after a four-day restaurant-building session and ordered two curries each.’

Clockwise from top left: chef Jason

Best place for autumnal feasting?

cooking over coals; wood-fired pizza;

‘The Pig in the New Forest is really atmospheric

alfresco seating

when the mists come down,’ says Aurora.

‘There are deer and horses roaming around so you get an autumnal forest feel that's romantic and cosy.’

19

BIT E

S IZ E

Ollie

Vernon Abi Manning chews the fat with the head chef of The Chagford Inn on Dartmoor Photographs by Guy Harrop

T

here's quiet steel behind the smiles

Working at a big-name restaurant isn't the

of Ollie Vernon and Jordan Ralph.

only indicator of talent, of course. My starter

Perhaps it's due to the fact the couple

of chopped Sladesdown trotters with pickled

got the keys to The Chagford Inn just two

walnut on a slab of fluffy toast went a long

weeks before the first Covid lockdown and

way to proving Ollie's cooking clout. It also

had to ride that storm through the early years

revealed his nose-to-tail ethos.

of running their business.

‘It's a respect-for-life thing. If an animal has

Yet, despite their first foray into running

been reared well and given its life, why are

a pub being a baptism of fire, chef Ollie

we not celebrating the entire thing? We're in a

and Jordan (front of house) have made a

world where big restaurants only use premium

significant mark on the South West culinary

cuts and there's no thought to where the rest

scene. Their inn recently bagged Best Pub at

of the animal goes.

the prestigious Trencherman's Awards 2025.

‘Carcass balancing is a nightmare for butchers, so

What better way to interview a chef than

we source half cows (three years old and pasture-

when tucking into his delicious cuisine? I sat

reared) from a local farmer and take on that

down for lunch with Ollie to find out about

responsibility ourselves.’

the couple's five years at the inn, grill him on upcoming plans and see the new refurb.

‘Five years came and went and we still had the same colour scheme as the previous owners,’ says Ollie. ‘So we thought it was about time we cracked on with what we wanted to do. We hired a designer who helped us make some bold choices. I wouldn't have thought of painting the ceiling red or green, for example, but we love

Home cooks who don't have the freezer space for a half cow can embrace nose-totail principles in other ways, explains Ollie.

‘Get a slow cooker. Low and slow is the way forward for cheaper cuts, which you can get from your butcher. Try something simple like oxtail stew or fill the slow cooker with oil and use it to confit. Shredded confit brisket is delicious.’

what she's come up with.

Main course

‘We did a lot of the work ourselves. We haven't

My main of seven-spiced duck breast with

got a financial backer; it's just me and Jord and

apricot, Tenderstem, watercress and sweet

our love of the place, pushing it forward.’

potato is another dish that namechecks Sladesdown Farm. In fact, the whole menu

Starter

details the producers behind the ingredients.

As with many chefs, Ollie's early food

‘We buy a lot direct from farmers, which cuts

experiences lie behind his choice of career.

out the middle man. Our pig farmer is a close

‘My dad married an Italian lady, and it was a

friend and I can see his farm – and the woodland

combination of her cooking and the time I spent in

where the pigs live – from my balcony. It's good

Italy, watching how ingredients were prioritised

to have those personal relationships; people need

and so simply dealt with, that inspired me. From

to connect with each other, and food is such an

the age of 12 I wanted to be a chef.’

His journey into cheffing was modest. ‘I trained at Exeter College then worked at a few places in Exeter, Seaton, Beer and around the Torquay area - no massive names.’

easy thing to connect over.’ ››

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Scan me for bookings

Close relationships with farmers and growers means getting first dibs on unusual ingredients, which is especially exciting in autumn. Ollie lights up at the prospect of the season.

‘Summer dishes are light and refreshing, and in winter you can get a bit more meat on your plate, but autumn sees the start of game season.

There's a change in the colours and a shift in attitude. I get very excited by the enormous variety of squashes too.

‘This autumn I'll have a game-bird dish on the

‘Autumn sees the start of the game season. There's a change in the colours and a shift in attitude’

menu and we'll source locally shot wild venison.’

Pudding They say the proof of the pudding is in the eating, and in this case it's in the scoffing of a hazelnut choux bun with flavours of salted caramel and chocolate, coated in crunchy muscovado. It's pure indulgence, but not uber fancy.

‘More and more people don't want to eat in a restaurant that feels stuffy and formal. That's why we wanted to run a dining pub – I like the casual atmosphere. It's nice to get a good plate of food, have a pint at the same time, and see people at the bar chatting.’

Last orders Where does Ollie like to eat out?

‘The Farm Table in Topsham is fantastic – it's got a really nice atmosphere. I also want to make it to The Swan in Bampton as I've worked with Jack [Alden, chef-owner] previously. And one of the best meals I've ever had was at Pony Chew Valley in Somerset. Josh [Eggleton] approaches food in a way I find very interesting.’

•

thechagfordinn.co.uk

23

The insider's guide to the most creative, innovative and authentic restaurants in the South West Discerning diners can get their copy of the guide at

Trencherman's chef Andy Tuck of The Tartan Fox by Adam Handling

Image: Guy Harrop

trenchermans-guide.com

Eating out The Food Lifestyle team eat out around the South West to reveal where's worth a visit

Halwyn, page 30

25

E AT I N G

OU T

Brasserie on the Bay

Image: Elliott White

St Michaels Resort in Falmouth has found the missing piece of its puzzle with the arrival of an exciting new head chef, discovers Jo Rees

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L

ush gardens with hot tub, sauna and plunge pool. Stylish contemporary bedrooms. Health club and hydrotherapy pool. Tick, tick, tick.

St Michaels Resort has long ticked all the boxes for

For starters, we moved on to crispy pig's cheek with

a good-time getaway in Cornwall.

pineapple, rum and mango salsa, and a delicate salad of salt-baked red and golden beetroot with

However, until very recently, its restaurant had

apple, whipped goat's curd and candied walnuts.

a period without a head chef – although its three

It was exactly the kind of opener needed when you

sous chefs did a solid job of manning the pass.

plan to follow it with a big fat lemon sole swimming

But kitchens work best with a leader, or it's like

in garlic, ginger and chilli butter. To be sated before

attempting the Normandy Landings without Monty

that hit the table would be a dereliction of duty.

to coordinate the troops.

The fish was cooked beautifully and presented

Like field marshals, chefs need a strategy, and I was

(with head on) in a jacket of buttery herbs – a

intrigued to find out what the resort's newly arrived

delicious portent for the restaurant's new seafood

head chef, Dave Waters, had up his sleeve. Most

direction. Sticking to the theme, we paired it with

recently, he led the kitchen at Hotel Meudon and

lobster thermidor with salad and fries, and it was

also spent six years working with Nathan Outlaw, so

everything you'd hope for when ordering the most

he knows his oysters.

expensive thing on the menu.

Earlier in the day, I caught up with Dave and chef

For pudding, a shared mini tarte tatin – crisp pastry

Stephane Delourme (who led Rick and Jill Stein's

and caramelised apple (with bite) on a shoreline of

The Seafood Restaurant for two decades), which

cinnamon sugar – delivered apple and cinnamon

provided an inkling as to what the strategy might

doughnut vibes.

be. Stephane had stepped in to oversee the kitchen for a couple of months before Dave's arrival and

As the kitchen team knew we were in that night,

was finishing his tenure there. And yes, you'll

they also sent out a new and not-yet-on-the-menu

be delighted to discover, they're transforming

dessert to sample. The perfectly wobbly coconut

Brasserie on the Bay into a seafood restaurant.

pannacotta with strawberry and pineapple salsa referenced piña coladas without even a whisper of

Our expectations were high when we arrived for

kitsch. A clue perhaps to the crowd-pleasing holiday

dinner. We kicked things off with rock oysters

vibes at which Dave is aiming? If that's the case,

dressed in hogwash (rice vinegar, minced shallot,

consider the last box well and truly ticked.

jalapeño and coriander), which were bracingly fresh, and ordered a board of bread to accompany. So many decent restaurants let the side down with

Brasserie on the Bay

underwhelming bread (and coffee, but let's not

St Michaels Resort, Gyllyngvase Beach,

go there). However, these springy slabs of focaccia

Falmouth, Cornwall, TR11 4NB

and brown and white sourdough, served with black

stmichaelsresort.com

olive tapenade, green olive and smoked-almond tapenade, and olive oil and balsamic, were so good they require significant self-restraint.

27

•

E AT I N G

OU T

Ogo

Selena Young joins the creative set for an artistic feast with as much substance as style

28

B

edruthan hotel, anchored to cliffs above the shores of Mawgan Porth Beach, is a hotbed of creativity. Art classes, yoga sessions,

wellbeing gatherings and feasting events make the contemporary hotel pulse with connectivity

The pigeon, encased in homemade panko crumb,

and innovation.

was meltingly soft and kicked into a high gear by the sweet tang of its fruity jam.

Add a wild array of artwork, and an on-site bakery churning out inviting carbs, and you're

A main of roasted Cornish duck breast with preserved

left wondering about the kind of cooking at play

plum and radicchio was ravishing. However, it was

in the hotel's restaurant. Can it possibly match

the red mullet with Isle of Wight tomatoes, lemon

up? But rest assured, this is not a case of all

verbena and whey that really wowed. A coral reef

trigger and no bang.

of intriguing colours and textures, it showcased

Tom Moore is the head chef leading the culinary

flavours ranging from the salt-sweet notes of the

artistic direction at Ogo. He changes the menu daily

fish to the citrussy zing of lemon-verbena foam.

to reflect the dayboats' haul of net-fresh seafood,

Sides to share included wilted organic cabbage with

seasonal meat and veg that arrives from nearby

yet more umami cultured butter, and a duo of crisp

farms, and team-foraged finds.

confit potatoes under a blanket of herb emulsion.

This impressively fresh produce is channelled into

For dessert, an earl grey ganache éclair, piped

a concise menu of creative dishes, crafted with

with fig leaf crémeux and served with preserved

sustainability in mind and designed for indulgent

elderflower and raspberry, caressed the palate with

sharing. The pithy curation is a pleasing find in a

earthy sweetness. A second – savoury - pud of

sea of TL;DR (too long; didn't read) menus that

warm Cornish scone layered with torched Bath brie

can result in food waste.

Complementing

Ogo's

and accompanied by gooseberry and apple jam blew minimalist

the sweet version out of the water.

menu

are Scandi-inspired interiors that echo the coastal

Ogo is an easy recommend, even without factoring

setting. And yet, while the views are attractive,

in its exclusively Cornish wine list of organic and

all eyes are drawn to the works of – plated – art.

biodynamic finds. Visit to revel in the natural flavours of the season.

We began our feast by inhaling, in feral fashion, the housemade sourdough: warm, springy bread cloaked in outlandishly good cultured

•

Ogo

elephant-garlic butter.

Bedruthan, Mawgan Porth, Cornwall, TR8 4BU

Starters saw us devouring small plates of pigeon

bedruthan.com

kiev with English pear jam; Cornish-cheese custard with pickled chicken of the woods mushroom; and john dory with spruce, olive and cider dressing.

Each dish was delectable, flavour-packed and nicely presented.

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E AT I N G

OU T

Halwyn

Jo Rees visits a new dining concept and discovers a contemporary experience delivering a hole in one

30

J

Chef Matt Haggath's menu is upbeat and full of

Founder Will Eustice has hit a hole in one with this

with smoked cheddar, salsa verde and garlic aioli,

new concept. To be clear, Halwyn isn't a golf club

are elegant and punchy. And Matt's homemade

in the conventional sense. It's a mash-up of golf-

greek-style bread with miso butter is a must-order.

oining the golf set never sounded very cool to me (rules about mandatory length of shorts and expensive club membership spring to mind),

flavour. Sharing snacks such as za'atar hummus on

but a visit to Halwyn in Crantock changed all that.

chickpea wafers with lemon gel, and cod croquettes

lite fun (high-tech driving range and mini golf),

The menu is built for grazing, so we shared starters:

contemporary aesthetics and high-quality cooking

slow-cooked pork belly with romesco, dressed

in a super-rural spot.

hispi cabbage and pickled rhubarb, and a barbecued

We visited a week after launch and the place was

sheftalia sausage (made with Eustice-reared beef)

already buzzing. Golfers were whacking balls in

on flatbread with tzatziki, lemon cabbage, pickled

private booths on the 15-bay driving range with

shallot and parsley.

Trackman system, while being served pints of

Mains comprised a deep and earthy hen-of-

Sharp's Offshore, glasses of chilled wine and snacky

the-woods mushroom dish with soy and ponzu

plates. Other punters were cheating their way

glaze, black garlic, curried couscous and wilted

around a mini-golf course that's a contemporary riff

Swiss chard, along with a Josper-grilled steak

on the format – granite rocks and swishy modern

which arrived succulent and smoky. We added

planting instead of pirates and treasure chests.

skin-on fries and (greedily) both a very good

While it's not necessary to even touch a golf club

chimichurri and béarnaise.

to enjoy the Halwyn experience, we had a laugh

For pudding, a salted caramel tart with cherries and

attempting (and often failing) to land a decent shot.

cherry sauce was cool, clean and well-balanced.

The real winner of the day, however, was dinner.

Ditch any idea that this is a clubhouse canteen;

Supper here is as satisfying as hitting a magnificent

Halwyn has a seriously good restaurant run by a

shot. Swing by to appreciate the kitchen's technique

chef whose last major tournament was as head chef

while brushing up your own – and without having

at The Idle Rocks in St Mawes.

to think once about the length of your shorts.

Indeed, many visitors skip straight to the Feasting Barn, a handsome room of exposed beams,

Halwyn

mismatched wood furniture and big rugs. A glass

Halwyn Hill, Crantock, Newquay,

wall overlooks countryside that includes Will's

Cornwall, TR8 5TR

cousin's farm – the source of much of the produce

halwyn.co.uk

on the menu. On warm days, diners head outside to the lawned garden where kids can run free and dogs can snooze under tables.

31

•

E AT I N G

OU T

Heydays

Image: Matt Austin

Image: Matt Austin

This Exmouth seaside diner oozes decks appeal, says Jane Rakison

32

H

eydays, in the shape of a giant beach hut, towers over Exmouth Beach like a beacon of happy vibes.

One of the biggest joys of this cafe-restaurant is its position. Separated from the beach by just a wide pavement, it's perfect for watching the world

This is the kind of place where burgers make sense

go by. Rollerbladers with deep tans whizz past in

– and a whole section of the main-course menu

ripped hotpants, parents wrangle with a suite of

is dedicated to them. Consider the buttermilk

damp mini wetsuits, while pocket-sized pooches

chicken burger with its crunchy coating and tangy

are pushed along in pet buggies. On first glance it

house sauce. It's imposingly tall and served with

could be Bondi, Venice or Ipanema but *quick sense

well-seasoned fries.

check* this is definitely Devon.

Or head in a different direction with a japanese

Heydays' two levels of beach-view seating

whole bowl – vegan and gluten free, but picked

encourages unashamed voyeurism, and this

despite these factors not because of them. Dressed

reviewer is delighted. Yet, as entertaining as the

with a bright togarashi mayo, this colourful dish of

pavement action is, the view beyond is even more

satisfying flavours and textures incorporated warm

captivating. Happily, this is a beachside diner for

sushi rice, edamame beans, sweet-potato chunks,

all seasons, and the sun doesn't need to be beating

beetroot and shards of roasted nori. We pimped it

down for diners to enjoy the curl of Exmouth

further – there are plenty of pimping options at

harbour prettily dotted with bobbing boats or the

Heydays – with fresh local crab.

zen-inducing expanse of sea and sky beyond.

For dessert, a pear, damson jam and frangipane

There are plenty more vantage points to be found

tart with fresh double cream arrived as a luscious

inside, where it's clear Heydays got the 21st-century

golden slice with a crisp pastry base. We added

beach-diner memo about avoiding blue, boats

an affogato, served with the ice cream and coffee

and anchors at all costs. Instead, the theme is

separate to let diners dictate the coffee-to-ice-

channelled through a pale pastel palette with

cream ratio, before crumbling in pistachio biscotti

details like raffia lampshades, festoon lighting

from neighbouring Rise Bakery.

and contemporary artwork.

Heydays is an inclusive restaurant on all levels and

The restaurant is broadly split into two: downstairs

kids, food intolerances and allergies are seamlessly

for walk-ins and upstairs for pre-bookers with

catered for. Whether you're autumn lunching or

destination dining in mind.

visiting for a sunset supper, you'll find relaxed

We headed to the first floor and found an extensive

beachside breathing space in a spot to make the

choice of crowd-pleasing dishes, including snacks

whole gang happy.

and starters featuring a wide range of seafood classics. Despite that, we opted for courgetti

•

fritters: five moist macaron-sized discs in crisp

Heydays

golden coats served on a bed of dill and lemon

Sideshore, Queen's Drive,

yogurt. The japanese baby back ribs starter was

Exmouth, Devon, EX8 2GD

a more greedy choice: three generous pieces of

heydaysdevon.co.uk

succulent meat piled high and drizzled in ginger and honey dressing.

33

E AT I N G

OU T

The Castle Inn

Abi Manning discovers moorland magic at work at Dartmoor's fairytale Castle

34

P

icture the scene: the sky, dramatic; a fresh autumn breeze in the air; a yomp across Dartmoor beckons. And the all-

important question ... at which dining pub will

Whipping up the goods in the kitchen is

you end your walk?

chef Mike Palmer, whose cooking creds make him a bewitching addition here. Best known for his long

Nothing dampens the spirits after a wild and

tenure at nearby Two Bridges Hotel in Princetown

windy hike like a pile of soggy oven chips and

(where he grew up), he's a recent recipient of

a burger that's been zapped from frozen. That's

Food Drink Devon's Chef of the Year.

why The Castle Inn, with its moorland magnetism,

Mike majors on fulsome flavours. On this visit,

cosiness and comfort food, is such a find.

puffy focaccia with homemade pesto set the scene

Hannah and Jared Lothian are the heart and

for a smorgasbord of starters packed with texture.

soul of this pub. They took it on as tenants

Cod croquettes with king-prawn curry sauce and

from St Austell Brewery in 2019, determined to

bhaji warmed the cockles, while ripped burrata was

reinvigorate the ancient building and turn it into

leant sweet tanginess by star anise-spiked peaches,

a welcoming community hub.

granola, coppa ham, balsamic and honey.

If the pub's haul of awards is any indicator, they've

Meltingly soft slow-cooked blade of Dartmoor beef

hit the mark. The Castle Inn bagged Best Pub at the

with onion and a cheddar and brisket croquette

Devon Tourism Awards and the Food Drink Devon

was a richly pleasing showcase of the terroir. We

Awards in 2023, and it holds a clutch of gold Taste

also took a trip to the seaside with the special of

of the West awards for the rooms (13 above the pub

butterflied Cornish mackerel with Isle of Wight

and in a cottage opposite), pub and bar.

heritage tomatoes, chorizo, chimichurri and

The couple add more than a touch of magic to the

sautéed new potatoes.

proceedings, but it's the setting that takes the

Our finale – a sugar-and-caffeine high courtesy of

experience into fairytale territory.

white choc pannacotta with English strawberries

Zoom out for a scene of wooded valleys and hills,

and honeycomb, paired with a shot of Ivybridge-

the Granite Way path and the 30m waterfall at

roasted Owens coffee – would be just the thing to

Lydford Gorge. Pull focus to come closer and explore

rev up diners for the hike home.

medieval Lydford Castle next door – allegedly, the

Need to know Hannah and Jared also run another

original home of the pub's dining room fireplace.

pub, The Copley Arms in Hessenford, Cornwall.

Then pan to the pub itself – in parts dating to the

Visit for similar community-centric values, warm

16th century – which is all low ceilings, wonky

hospitality and fab food on the River Seaton, five

beams, narrow passageways and ancient stone. The

minutes from the sea.

historical building has been tastefully furnished

•

in a rustic fashion that's fully in keeping with its ancient character.

The Castle Inn

As to what to eat? The food hits the crowd-pleasing

Lydford, Okehampton, Devon, EX20 4BH

sweet spot where elevated pub classics meet fancier

castleinnlydford.co.uk

fare. So it's no surprise to find the space populated by couples dining à la carte, groups sipping cocktails and scoffing pizza outside under the heated tent, and hikers – fresh off the moor and with pooches in tow – sinking pints of Proper Job at the bar.

35

Autumn feasting, at The Farm Table TR E N C H E R M A N' S

T U T ORI A L

Image: Matt Austin

Shifting gear into autumn? Selena Young grills George Dart and Tom Chivers of The Farm Table at Darts Farm on seasonal cooking and eating

36

A

fter a summer of light dishes and long

Fish-centric suppers Chunky veg and hearty meat

days, autumn is the time to ease back

often take the starring role in autumnal dishes, but

into the kitchen and create comfort

fresh fish and seafood like mussels and squid also warrant attention at this time of year.

food. However, rather than slaving at the stove, embrace slow cooking, soups and stews using

‘We keep flame-cooked turbot on the menu year-round,’

the season's abundant produce. Or let someone

says Tom. ‘The whole fish is served to share and is

else do the hard work by dining at a restaurant

particularly delicious in autumn as the flesh is meaty and

that embraces the season's ingredients, such as

pairs well with roasted root vegetables.’ Home cooks

The Farm Table at Darts Farm.

should consider serving it – The Farm Table style – with a bean cassoulet loaded with fresh pancetta.

George Dart and chef Tom Chivers, who head up the restaurant, consider autumn the best time of year

For a delicious fish feast (and further inspo), visit

to visit. ‘Autumn welcomes a transition into slower,

the Darts Farm event with seafood-pros Mark Hix

soulful cooking, which is naturally supported by the

and Mitch Tonks on November 7. The evening of

seasonal ingredients available,’ says George.

small-plate feasting will showcase Mark's smoked

‘It also encourages a reactive way of cooking: at

fish and Mitch's tinned-fish range. ‘It'll be a cracking

The Farm Table we change the menu maybe three

event that reveals just how much you can do with quality

times a week, depending on the ingredients harvested

fish in autumn. Trust us, there is more to tinned fish than

from our fields.’

salads!’ says George.

Tom says: ‘It's my favourite season because of the

dartsfarm.co.uk

explosion of flavours and colours. I love the earthy sweet squashes and root veg and cracking open jars of summer ferments and pickles. It's so easy to build on the flavour of autumn produce from the fields, farm and sea with ferments and deli cheeses. There's also a contrast of textures in this season's cooking.’

Inspired? Here are some of the pair's recommended ways to dig into the season.

Let the games begin Make the most of local pheasant, partridge and venison. ‘Pheasant is cheap, nutritious, and great for family meals when cooked low and slow with cabbage, cream and bacon,’ says Tom.

Squash glorious squash The pair are enthusiastic about the season's squash in all its forms – from creamy butternut to the bold orange flesh of crown prince. ‘We roast, grill and cook them in the wood-oven to unlock their natural sweetness – occasionally amplifying that by adding our own honey,’ says Tom. ‘Roasted squash makes a lovely supper served with cheeses, bitter leaves and pickles.’

Slow food Meats, squash and celeriac all yield great results when treated to a gentle bath in the slow cooker.

SUP P OR T E D

37

CON T E N T

•

Travel The South West's coolest, quirkiest and most fabulous places to visit in autumn

View from Gaia, page 45

39

Cool places to stay Osip images: Dave Watts

Abi Manning picks enchanting places to bask in the cosiness of the season

Bedroom at Osip

40

Southcombe Piggery Dartmoor, Devon

OSIP

There are heaps of opportunities for cosiness and creativity at this former piggery.

Bruton, Somerset

Spend your autumn visit snuggling by

Bruton's Michelin‑starred restaurant has

the fire on an upcycled chesterfield sofa,

levelled up with the recent launch of four

soaking in the roll‑top bath, or immersed in

lush bedrooms, and is now making a strong

the Wild Spa with its wood‑fired sauna and

case for the title of ‘UK's most covetable

twin outdoor baths. Private yoga sessions,

gourmet escape’.

Indian massage and gong baths provide

The rooms mirror the same peaceful

further distractions.

minimalism and handcrafted finish of the

Soul food is accompanied by bodily

restaurant and are a curation of exposed

nourishment. Order a delivery of locally made

beams, oak flooring and locally crafted

Sri Lankan curry or arrange a private chef to

live‑edge wood furniture. The eagle‑eyed will

whip up a foraged feast, cooked over flames.

notice exquisite elements that connect guests

Creative juices can be squeezed with a

with the surrounding Somerset landscape.

linocut-printing, flower‑crown making or forest‑bathing workshop. ››

This is a hot find for those appreciative of thoughtful, creative cooking. Chef‑owner

southcombebarn.com

Merlin Labron‑Johnson is a culinary wizard whose skills earnt him the Award for Creativity and Innovation at the Trencherman's Awards 2025. osiprestaurant.com

41

Woolsery, Devon Leave any preconceptions about rustic country living at the door of this beautiful upside‑down cottage in the north Devon village of Woolsery.

Polished concrete floors, expansive glass and contemporary design have been used to reinvent a former smithy, which holds a prestigious One‑Key Michelin rating. It's part of The Collective at Woolsery, a regeneration of the village's historic buildings which includes award‑winning pub The Farmers Arms, a village store and a farm.

The open‑plan living area is a cosy space for curling up in front of the roaring woodburner. A full kitchen is included – or simply open the gate between The Old Smithy and the pub's garden for supper cooked by head chef Toby Neal.

Not after an entire cottage? The dinner, bed and breakfast package in a stylish room above the sister village shop is perfect for a romantic getaway for two. woolsery.com

42

Collective images: Matt Austin

The Old Smithy

Bishopstrow Hotel & Spa Warminster, Wiltshire Bishopstrow offers a playful and refreshing reinvention of the manor house experience.

Georgian elegance is balanced with

modern‑day

sass

in

bedrooms packed with delicious colours,

quirky

features

and lush views.

The jumping‑off point for any stay here, however, is a meal at The Garden Grill, a farm‑to‑fork restaurant with a no‑dig garden at its heart. Seasonal fruit, veg and herbs are grown using organic and sustainable methods, providing flavour and freshness all year round.

Beyond the bites and beds, there's heaps to get stuck into at Bishopstrow, including an 18th‑century temple, walled garden, riverside footpaths, a spa, indoor and outdoor pools, tennis courts and afternoon tea

Image: Jon Tonks

by the fire. ›› bishopstrowhotel.com

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SOMERSET 1 44 29 22

ISLES OF SCILLY 26

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8

7 9 3

27

14

40 43

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DORSET

PUB

6

CORNWALL

11

37

35

4 33

39

19

2 15

30 5

31

20 38

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10 32 17

DEVON

25 28

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16 42

12 23

PUB & ROOMS BEER HOUSE In collaboration with Harbour Brewing Co.

Discover the best of the South West, one pub at a time.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

The Atlantic Borough Arms The Central Chain Locker County Arms The Crabshell Fort Inn The Globe Great Western Harbour Beer House

11. Harbour Inn 12. Harbour Light 13. Hare & Hounds 14. Havener’s 15. Hicks Bar 16. Hope & Anchor 17. Lifeboat Inn 18. Locksbrook Inn 19. Masons Arms 20. Mill On The Exe

21. Moorfields 22. Old Custom House 23. Old Market House 24. Old Success Inn 25. Oystercatcher 26. Pedn Olva 27. Pier House 28. Port Gaverne 29. Port William 30. Punchbowl & Ladle

31. Godolphin Arms 32. Rashleigh Arms 33. Rising Sun 34. Rock Point 35. Rose & Crown 36. Royal Castle 37. Royal Seven Stars 38. Samuel Jones 39. Ship Inn 40. The Ship

Scan here to find your South West destination this autumn We also have over 120 tenanted pubs across the South West managed by our Business Partners. For a full list and map please visit staustellbrewery.co.uk

41. Shipwrights 42. Victoria Inn 43. The Waterfront 44. The Wellington 45. The Wellington

Gaia Widemouth Bay, Cornwall Soothe the transition from warm days to the moodiness of autumn with a wellness break in hyper‑modern eco home Gaia.

The retreat sleeps up to ten and provides a cocoon in which to disconnect from everyday life. Should the outside world beckon, however, just outside its walls lie rugged Black Rock Beach, cafes, shops, sand dunes that go on for days, and the South West Coast Path.

Delve through the complimentary Cornish Food Box and land&water bath and body products (perks of booking one of Beach Retreats' The Iconic Set properties), then take your pick from the abundance of in‑house options that will take you from stressed to serene.

Stretch out in the yoga room, melt away in the Finnish sauna or grab a blanket and enjoy a sundowner on the roof terrace. Stormy weather? Make it a movie night in the cinema room. beachretreats.co.uk

45

•

Source Spa TH E

S PA

IN SP E CT OR

Image: Dean Chapple

Rosanna Rothery immerses herself in a marine‑inspired thermal journey at Saunton Sands Hotel in Devon

46

L

ounging around in the vitality pool in Saunton Sands Hotel's Source Spa is nothing short of multi‑sensory theatre.

Before you, the astonishing panorama of Saunton Beach provides endless fascination: the sky changes colour in an instant, clouds shapeshift in the wind and waves dance along a boundless stretch of gleaming sands.

Beneath you, the warm frothy embrace of mineral‑rich Dead Sea salt water softens the skin, while powerful jets playfully pound aching muscles.

Next, it's on to the Finnish sauna. The hottest

The jaw‑dropping view is a bonus of booking

experience on the journey, this cocoon of

a spa day at Saunton Sands: a four‑star

dry heat and uplifting aromatherapy oils

landmark hotel perched on cliffs overlooking

induces ragdoll levels of relaxation when

a sweep of coastline and the natural wonder

combined with a couple of rounds in the

of the Braunton Burrows. Its Source Spa,

adjoining shower.

spread over three floors, was created to take

The final stop on this thermal crawl is

advantage of this unique location and, in

the “snow” fountain. The proposition of

2023, won the AA Best UK Spa Award.

smearing bracing handfuls of crushed ice over torso and limbs becomes surprisingly

Thermal journey

attractive after all that deep, cosseting heat. ››

Awe‑inspiring ocean vistas ensure that, even when wallowing in the warm watery

Image: Dean Chapple

enclosure of the marine‑inspired thermal suite, visitors feel connected to the restorative and soothing power of the sea.

The thermal suite's collection of hot and cold therapies can be experienced in an ad hoc, intuitive way, but those who appreciate a little guidance can follow a carefully curated journey (helpfully posted on the wall).

The aqueous odyssey begins with a mini hydrotherapy experience in the vitality pool, followed by a session in a salt‑inhalation steam room. A few minutes in the latter has a similar effect to inhaling lungfuls of sea air during a balmy day on the beach.

47

48

Live in the slow lane Built in the 1930s, Saunton Sands Hotel has a distinct art deco vibe. So, when the spa was created in 2018, it was built to complement that era of dazzling glamour.

The experience is enhanced with Source

The deck surrounding the indoor swimming

natural

massage

oils,

which

smell

utterly divine and leave you smooth,

spot, for instance, is the kind of elegant space one could imagine holding a golden‑era

glowing and glassy.

Hollywood pool party.

Other hour‑long treatments include bespoke

The pool itself is large enough for those

facials and customised massages.

who want to add a watery workout to their

All are best followed by a post‑treatment

spa‑day experience (a dry‑land alternative

sprawl in the cosy rooftop relaxation room

is available in the gym). For a peaceful

(or, in warm weather, on its glorious

swim, however, allow the personal besters

sun deck), where floor‑to‑ceiling windows

to thrash on ahead. A few meditative laps

give guests another chance to connect with

with the sound of a rain wall and calming

the wild natural beauty of Saunton. Curl up

music is bliss.

on one of the beds, sip a herbal tea and gaze out at autumnal light shimmering beneath

Lunch with a view

the prancing waves that lap the beach.

A lunch of either sandwiches, light bites (such

•

as salad or soup) or classic dishes like grilled chicken supreme or River Exe mussels is best enjoyed with a side helping of those

WHAT'S INCLUDED

bewitching views.

Spa days cost from £170 per person

The Terrace Lounge remains purposely

and include full access to all spa

informal during the day, so it's perfectly OK

facilities (indoor and outdoor pools,

to rock up in a snug spa robe and flip-flops

gym, thermal suite and relaxation

and grab a seat opposite the window for

room), plus lunch, a 60‑minute spa

ocean‑view lunching.

treatment and flip-flops to take home.

Rooftop relaxing

The hotel has also recently opened an

For a snoozy finale to a day of intentional

infrared sauna, which is an additional

idling, a full‑body aromatherapy massage

add‑on available to spa‑goers

calms the nervous system, improves

and hotel guests.

circulation and soothes aching joints.

sauntonsands.co.uk

Nodding off is optional while a skilled therapist kneads all the knots that have sneakily taken up residence in tense muscles.

49

T H E

C UR ATIO N

Weekends in the

Wild Chunky knits and wellies at the ready!

Jo Rees handpicks smart rural inns and dining pubs with rooms for an autumn getaway

Sitting room at The Holcombe

50

Image: Faydit Photography

THE HOLCOMBE At this foodie getaway in Somerset's Mendip Hills, owners Alan Lucas and Caroline Gardiner oversee a seasonal, low‑waste menu that utilises their own homegrown produce and the best from nearby artisan suppliers. Their raised beds and polytunnels are as much a part of the team as Truffle the house

SIGN OF THE ANGEL

hound, and garden‑to‑plate dining is the defining

The ancient village of Lacock may be famous

culinary ethos.

for its appearances in TV period dramas like

The inn itself reveals rustic‑modern charm.

Downton Abbey, but the village's real star is this

Recently renovated bedrooms mix British‑made

charming 15th‑century coaching inn. All wonky

textiles with antique finds, while three lodges

beams, crackling logs and candlelight, it's a hugely

offer a little more privacy and views over fields or

atmospheric spot for an autumn weekender.

kitchen plots. Two bedrooms are dog‑friendly and

Its two‑AA‑rosette culinary offering lives

one has a log burner – perfect for a cosy afternoon

up to the splendid setting, and centres on

snooze in front of the fire after a stomp through the

Modern British cooking crafted from local

surrounding countryside. Follow with a beautifully

ingredients. No weekender should conclude

prepared supper and a comfy bed for a weekend

without sampling the fabulous Sunday lunch, which

reset that'll see you through to Christmas.

includes the likes of roast rump of beef with treacle

theholcombe.com

beef croquette and horseradish cream.

Bedrooms are dressed for comfort with feather duvets, duck‑down pillows and homemade welcome treats. There's also a guests‑only sitting room for chilling out between feasts and countryside adventures. ›› signoftheangel.co.uk

51

THE COTLEY INN On the Cotley Estate at the foot of the Blackdown Hills in Somerset, this 17th-century inn blends rural charm with a seriously good food game and warm hospitality.

Seasonal menus range from fine cooking like walnut‑crusted duck with szechuan sauce to casual eats such as bratwurst and wood‑fired pizza in the garden, so you can mix it up on a weekend away. Everything is sourced hyper locally, including vegetables from the kitchen garden and meat from the field across the road. Sunday lunches are a robust affair featuring yorkies the size of your head and tankards of proper ale.

All bedrooms in the Grade II‑listed former stables come with goose‑down duvets, Egyptian cotton sheets and birdsong, but for the best room in the house book The Holt. The stylish barn conversion is set over two floors and features a king‑size bed, roll‑top bath and spacious living space. cotleyinnwambrook.co.uk

52

Image: Paul Massey

THE OLD COASTGUARD There's magic to be found at The Old Coastguard in the fishing village of Mousehole. From its scrubbed wooden tables to the palm‑fringed terrace, everything leans into its Cornish coastal setting – right down to a menu dictated by whatever the Newlyn dayboats bring ashore.

Head chef Danny Garland (ex‑Ottolenghi) doesn't

THE BATH ARMS

just stop at fish, though: local meats, cheeses and inventive plant‑based dishes get their due

On the edge of the Longleat Estate in

in a brasserie‑style menu that's casual but

Wiltshire, The Bath Arms balances heritage

accomplished. Feast on dishes like monkfish with

charm with quietly luxurious touches. Inside, the

whipped cod's roe, kimchi butter and mussels, or

bar buzzes with chatter over pints of traditional

head to The Crab Shack in the sea‑facing garden

ale and world‑class wines, while the restaurant

for easy eats like brown‑crab toasties and scallops

delivers unpretentious seasonal fare that's rooted

in the half‑shell with seaweed butter.

in the landscape.

The addition of guest rooms gazing over

Chef Jack Chapman's menus shift with the

Mount's Bay, Vispring beds, an award‑winning

seasons, featuring meat and game from the

bar and sea air make The Old Coastguard a potent

estate, venison from Dartmoor, daily landed fish

remedy for the stresses of a busy working week.

from the south coast and comforting puds like apple crumble to share.

oldcoastguardhotel.co.uk

Sixteen bedrooms, set across the main house and former stables, feature crisp cotton sheets, Bramley bath products (a sister business) and a soothing Wiltshire-inspired palette. batharmsinn.com

53

•

THE

F UL L

W O R K S

The

Nare

Abi Manning basks in the pleasures of luxe old‑school hospitality at the seaside

Fresh lobster at The Nare

54

W

e South West locals know we're very lucky to live in this lovely corner of the world – and are usually quite

evangelical about sharing its appeal. So when friends from the city come to stay, we make sure their time isn't just spent soaking up the scenery, but that they also get to experience the South West lifestyle that makes this

A SENSE OF PLACE On entering the hotel (note the large shovel

region so special.

And that's exactly the premise of a stay at The Nare. Guests are treated as friends, welcomed with warm hospitality, wrapped in comfort and offered a taste of Cornish life at its

behind the door for competitive sandcastle building), most guests don't clock the reception desk, thanks to the mesmeric draw of the glittering ocean vista that steals all attention.

most refined. It's little wonder so many return

These views, which are the result of The Nare

year after year.

sitting right above beautiful Carne Beach, are maximised at every turn. Each table in the hotel's two restaurants (The Dining Room

TIME‑HONOURED TRADITION The Nare is one of an increasingly rare breed of uber‑trad hotels. In a sector leaning into Scandi minimalism, small plates and casual vibes, this proudly nails its colours to the mast as a luxurious old‑school hotel that does formality with buckets of charm.

Its proprietor, Toby Ashworth, is a hotelier by blood. For over a century, his family have owned and run hotels in Cornwall – he was even raised in one. The Nare was acquired by Toby's grandmother in the eighties and he took over its stewardship in 2000.

and The Quarterdeck) has a view of the coast, the outdoor pool overlooks the ocean, and the beach‑house hot tub allows guests to gaze across rippling seas to a rugged headland.

Get the ocean connection in every element of the stay by pushing the boat out and booking a sea‑view suite. Sipping a glass of sherry from the in‑room decanter while surveying the big blue beyond your private balcony is the perfect way to melt away travel‑related tension. In the mornings, greet the day with the gentle sea breeze on your face as you enjoy, alfresco, your delivery of fresh coffee and a

So it's no surprise that visitors feel like they're

newspaper – blankets are provided to stave off

staying at Toby's country house by the sea.

any autumn chill.

Like any good host, he ensures his charges are enjoying themselves and spends time checking in during his weekly Champagne reception or at afternoon tea in the drawing room.

Further seaside thrills can be discovered by following the garden path to the beach where shoreside strolls, ocean dips and rockpooling await. The beach connects with the South West Coast Path, which leads directly back to the hotel, so walkers can easily explore the surrounding coastline. Can't hack the return hike? Call the hotel and they'll send a driver to sweep you back to comfort. ››

55

Clockwise from top left: the Alice Rose; Abi in the hot tub; suite with a view; afternoon tea by the fire

56

Regionally sourced ingredients also show up in desserts like Tregothnan Estate Earl Grey Tea‑injected crème brûlée with honey and hazelnut.

SEAFOOD AND SILVER SERVICE The

sea‑inspired

synergy

continues

While The Quarterdeck is relatively informal

in

(non‑residents are welcome and it even has a

The Quarterdeck Restaurant. It's been reimagined of

small dog‑friendly dining area), The Dining Room

late with the aim of becoming a premier destination

is the spot for trad five‑course table d'hôte dining.

for Cornish seafood. The menu certainly reads like

Classic silver service, a daily changing menu, an

a celebration of the bountiful south coast and our

hors d'oeuvres trolley and guéridon‑served flambés

starter of St Mawes octopus comprised a curled

all bring the vibe. Its theatre and flourish makes

tentacle on a bed of corn velouté with a jalapeño

dinner an occasion – which is reflected in guests'

and passionfruit glaze, crunchy quinoa tuile and

attire of jackets and ties and fancy frocks.

chimichurri. Rich Portloe crab, meanwhile, was lifted by a quartet of fresh flavours: avocado,

Toby's love affair with wine is evident in an

lemongrass, tomato and grapefruit.

extensive cellar that offers a treasure trove of exceptional bottles from across the globe, plus a

Mains continue the maritime tale, with the ocean

few from local vineyards.

theme even lent to dishes more traditionally rooted in the land. A meaty monkfish wellington, encased

BESPOKE BREAK

in prawn mousse, was accompanied by a potato terrine and heritage carrots, zapped with curried

If

warmth courtesy of cumin and vadouvan.

adrenaline‑seeking sort, you wouldn't plan their

a

visiting

chum

was

an

outdoorsy,

stay around spa lounging. Just as you wouldn't create an itinerary of watersports, hiking and

Need to know

tennis for someone who prefers curling up with a good book. And in just this way, The Nare ensures

Must pack

each guest enjoys a holiday experience perfectly

Gladrags for a dressy dinner

preferences ahead of arrival and put in place

tailored to their tastes. The team discover personal appropriate activities.

If you do one thing

That might mean booking a soothing facial in one

Hit the high seas on the Alice Rose

of the treatment rooms, arranging complimentary tennis tuition, or coordinating a cruise aboard the

Insider tip

hotel's elegant boat the Alice Rose. Guests can also borrow hotel kayaks for a paddle around the bay or

Guests staying in a suite receive a complimentary 20‑minute spa treatment

flex their creative muscles in an art session with resident artist Jeannie.

The possibilities are abundant at this bespoke Cornish resort. In fact, it's difficult to pack it all in during one stay ... see you next year.

The Nare Carne Beach, Veryan‑in‑Roseland, Cornwall, TR2 5PF narehotel.co.uk

57

•

A N D

T E S T E D

Praktyka jewellery workshop Jo Rees slips into a flow state at a creative ring‑making session in rural Devon

58

Images: Ania Wawrzkowicz

TRI ED

What?

An opportunity to craft silver jewellery in the Devon countryside using the traditional art of wax carving.

Ania making jewellery in her studio

Ania Wawrzkowicz is one of the founders of Praktyka, a creative retreat in north Devon that she runs with her husband Henry. Together, they've created a magical sanctuary in the countryside where guests can stay in pods, barns or a geodesic dome, surrounded by wild gardens and sprawling farmland.

An experienced artist, photographer and jewellery maker, Ania trained in fine art at the University of the Arts London, LCC and Camberwell College of Art. Since moving to Devon six years ago to create Praktyka with Henry, she's run jewellery workshops from its airy studio, sharing with her students the quiet process of wax carving to create pieces which will then be cast in silver or gold.

Why? It's broadening to learn something new and step outside your normal life for a while.

However, those taking one of Ania's workshops for entertainment will find the experience delivers much more than fleeting distraction.

Her

gentle

warmth

and

the

bucolic

surroundings lull visitors into a state of tranquil

‘The quiet process of wax carving to create pieces which will then be cast in silver or gold’

peacefulness. It's the kind of environment that lets you crack the surface of modern life and sink into a flow state, directed by your creative self instead of your to‑do list.

The studio is a meditative oasis of blond wood, with picture windows framing frothy hedgerows, and benches crammed with tools and materials. A wood burner makes it cosy, while a generous collection of coffees, herbal teas, fruit and dark chocolate keeps the energy levels buoyant. ››

59

B Y

A L F R E D

P E T T Y

A F F O R DA B L E

L U X U RY

Experience elevated gastronomy without the fine dining price tag.

From housemade canapés to intricate petit fours, everything at this intimate restaurant in Truro city centre is crafted in‑house to deliver a feast for the senses.

5 Old Bridge Street, Truro, TR1 2AQ

07354 427160

VEGAN BRUNCH CAFE Award winning brunch, supper clubs & events

sacredgrounds.co @sacredgroundsvegancafe McCoy’s Arcade, Fore St, Exeter EX4 3AN

| pettyfours.co.uk

Recommend to friends?

Definitely. Better still, go with them. The sessions can accommodate up to six at a time.

Or turn it into a weekend away and stay a couple of nights in one of the Praktyka pods.

How to do it Book via the website. There's no set diary; Ania is easygoing and coordinates with customers to find a time that's mutually

Ania says rings are the most popular item to

convenient. A three‑hour one‑to‑one session

make in the three‑hour session as they're

costs £150; a private group of up to six costs

manageable in the time period. Couples

£85 per person and the four‑hour wedding

also visit to make unique wedding bands

rings workshop costs £265 per couple. This

for each other.

doesn't include the cost of casting, which

After perusing Ania's own pieces – which

depends upon the metal chosen.

include silver and gold rings in different

•

aniajewellery.com

styles, some with inset stones – for

praktyka.co.uk

inspiration, we set to work sizing up and sawing wax cylinders to the depth of ring we want to create.

Ania in the workshop

The process involved filing the hard wax, working at it continuously to shape it into the desired design. This alchemy of quiet repetition, concentration and imagination produces an original one‑off – the wax is burnt away during the casting process so can't be used again.

‘The process lends itself to organic, textured, sculptural pieces,’ says Ania.‘It's actually closer to sculpture than metalsmithing.’

Verdict?

A special experience. The afternoon delivered

For more inspo, read ‘5 of the best creative workshops in the South West’ on our website

quiet pleasure punctuated by laughter – and the anticipation of receiving the design cast in silver.

61

WINNER BEST BAR

GUIDE 2023

‘Just a delightful place to be’ Jay Rayner, The Observer

Great Food, Great Views, Great Company Waterfront Restaurant, Bar & Terrace | Private Events | Weddings The Grove, Bristol, BS1 4RB | hhbristol.com | enquiries@hhbristol.com | 0117 925 1212

Weekend

cooking Get stuck into wet walnuts, cheese for autumn feasting, and Scott Paton's recipe for the best cheeseboard biscuit

Fermented walnuts and accompaniments at

Image: Guy Harrop

Iford Manor, page 64

63

TH E

F E R M E N T E R

Wet walnuts & fermented fruits Iford Manor Kitchen's executive chef Matthew Briddon introduces Jo Rees to the mother of all cheese accompaniments – and reveals how to make them at home Photographs by Guy Harrop

64

P

ickled walnuts may be a cheeseboard classic, but fermented walnuts? Who even knew they were a thing? Well, Iford Manor's executive chef

Matthew Briddon, for one.

Matt is a fermentation fiend who crams vegetable offcuts and garden-produce gluts into jars that line his roomy fermentation cupboard. Ostensibly, his objective is to use up ingredients from Iford's restaurant and gardens that would otherwise go to waste, but clearly he also gets a creative thrill from his adventures with Kilner jars.

Matthew gave walnuts a whirl when the estate's head gardener Steve Lannin delivered a pile to his kitchen door late last summer. Steve wasn't convinced the nuts from one of the walnut trees in Iford's astonishing garden would ripen, so asked Matthew if he could do anything with them. And the chef, working on the premise that most things when fermented become more delicious, took on the challenge.

‘Burping helps mitigate the risk as it lets excess gas escape’ He washed and dried the nuts and stuck them in a jar filled with brine, adding a little birch sap for sweetness. Six months later, the soft fruit (like pickled walnuts but green, sweet and full of umami character) were ready – and stunningly delicious.

Matthew explains: ‘Sugar – whether birch sap, honey or even brown sugar – revs up the fermentation process because it feeds the bacteria. It also alters the flavour in a good way.’

He serves the fermented walnuts with bitingly sharp Westcombe Mature Cheddar, his own fermented wild-garlic leaves and homemade sourdough crackers.

It's a veritable feast crafted out of foraged finds and surprisingly simple ingredients. ››

65

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RING IN THE NEW YEAR IN STYLE — WITH LIVE MUSIC, COCKTAILS, AND CULINARY DELIGHTS AT THE VIEW Start your evening with a sparkling welcome — enjoy delicious canapés and drinks on arrival, followed by a sumptuous three-course dinner crafted

by Executive Chef Matt Mason and his talented team. Add an optional cheese course for an extra-indulgent touch.

As the night unfolds, let the incredible Marvin Muoneke serenade you with live jazz and soul as you dance your way into 2026 with one final toast drink.

01392 576677 theviewexeter.co.uk The View, Courtyard by Marriott, Sandy Park, Sandy Park Way, Exeter, EX2 7NN

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DRESS TO IMPRESS THIS IS A NIGHT YOU WON’T WANT TO MISS!

If you want to ferment walnuts at home, the trickiest part is getting hold of fresh walnuts in the first place. Lucky you if you've got a walnut tree (or a friend with one). Failing that, ask your greengrocer if they can source them at market.

‘Use the same sweetened brine mix and the

Matthew says: ‘Make a three per cent salt brine

same process and when they're fully fermented,

and add sweetness – maple syrup, black treacle,

in six months or so, they'll be soft. You can

brown sugar or honey will all do the job. Three

squash them like you would garlic; they make

tablespoons is about right for a two-litre jar, but

a really good pesto. They're also great in sauces

you can do it to taste.

served with game.’

‘It's as simple as that really. Just make sure you

Does adding sugar to fermenting ingredients

run the jar through the dishwasher or rinse with

increase the likelihood of the jar exploding

boiling water first to sterilise it. Cover the walnuts

or the whole thing turning to alcohol? ‘That's

with brine and place a saucer or muslin on top

something you've got to watch.’ says Matthew.

of the nuts to hold them down. It's essential they

‘I've definitely had some disasters over the years,

stay submerged.

but it's about keeping an eye on them and knowing how far to go before you strain it off.’

‘Then leave them for six months or so out of sunlight and where there are no strong odours

Burping helps mitigate the risk as it removes

as they will pick up flavour. Definitely don't keep

excess gas from the Kilner jar. Matthew

them under the sink with the bleach! However,

suggests burping your jars once a week or,

because they absorb flavours easily you can

if you're going away on holiday, using an

spice them up by adding nutmeg, cinnamon and

elastic band (tied around the metal clasp

rosemary to the brine.’

of the jar) to keep the jar closed, instead

If you can't get your hands on fresh walnuts,

of locking it shut. Then, when the pressure

Matthew suggests using the same technique

builds, the gas can push the lid open a

with dried, shelled walnuts (the kind that

little and escape.

crown Walnut Whips).

•

ifordmanor.co.uk

‘When you ferment them in the same way they're

Next issue, Matt teaches us how to

called “wet walnuts” and are a brilliant addition

dry-cure meats.

to a cheeseboard.

67

seven Cheese is better in autumn than any other time of the year, says Jane Rakison, who gets advice on seven stonking cheeses for a killer cheeseboard

68

Image: Sarah Maingot

The magnificent

W

hile most people go on a cheese frenzy in the festive season, autumn is arguably the very best time to devour slices, wedges

and rondelles of the good stuff.

Not only does cheese pair perfectly with the season's bounty of apples, pears, figs and plums but, as the days shorten and the temperatures drop, we naturally lean towards richer and more comforting flavours for that hug‑on‑a‑plate moment.

However, the main reason for celebrating cheese in autumn is that this is when many cheeses possess extra flavour. Two main factors contribute to this boost in complexity. First, a change in animals' diets from fresh pasture to hay and drier feeds produces a fuller body and more complex flavours. Second, by the time autumn comes round, cheese made from the nutrient‑rich milk of late spring and summer will have matured in both texture and flavour.

CHEDDAR

Classic farmhouse cheddars are often made with milk from late spring and summer grazing, which is then aged for 12 months or more. The richer milk

Which are the best cheeses to scoff at this time of year?

from the end of the grazing season can

We asked Debbie Daniel from cheese experts Harvey

contribute to a more profound taste. By

& Brockless to share her pick of the pack for a killer

autumn they've developed an incredible

autumn cheeseboard.

depth of flavour and tanginess, with a firm yet crumbly texture.

Keens, Somerset Debbie says: ‘This renowned cheese (above) is made by the Keen family who have been making cheese since 1899 using milk from their own herd of british friesians.

The truckles are made traditionally then clothbound and matured for 12 months. This produces a rich, creamy flavour with a hint of citrus on the finish. It complements fruits such as apples and pears, plus it pairs brilliantly with Pinot Noir.’ ››

69

70

Image: Sarah Maingot

GOAT

Many traditional goat's cheeses benefit from longer ripening periods. Cheeses made from spring and summer milk have matured by autumn, developing complex, nutty and sometimes earthy notes that nicely reflect the season.

Driftwood, Somerset Debbie says: ‘This is an award‑winning, log‑shaped, ash‑covered goat's milk cheese (left) made by White Lake.

It offers a delightful combination of citrusy brightness and subtle saltiness complemented by earthy and peppery undertones. The texture is mousse‑like when young, becoming richer, creamier and more gooey as it matures.

It's great with salads or a glass of dry English Bacchus.’

Eve, Somerset ‘This award‑winning soft goat's cheese is known for its creamy, nutty flavour and unique preparation method: the cheese is washed in Somerset Cider Brandy and wrapped texture and distinctive nutty and lemon flavour profile.

WASHED RIND

It pairs beautifully with fresh fruits and charcuterie.’

interiors, washed‑rind cheeses are more suited

in vine leaves (below). This process contributes to its soft

Known for their pungent aromas and creamy to the cool and humid conditions of autumn. The washing process encourages specific bacteria on the rind, which thrive at this time of year and contribute to the cheese's distinctive flavour profile being “meaty” and savoury.

Rachel, Somerset Debbie says: ‘This is a semi‑hard goat's milk cheese made by White Lake. Subtle sweetness and nutty flavour with a mellow, sweet paste underneath the orange/ yellow mottled rind makes it accessible for those who usually find these cheeses too strong. It has a pleasing melt‑in‑the‑mouth texture and is great for stuffing in chicken or adding to lasagne.’

Solstice, Somerset ‘This semi‑soft cheese (above) is made with rich and creamy Guernsey cow's milk and is washed in Somerset Cider Brandy. It's known for its mild sweetness, nutty flavour, gentle acidity and its similarities to cheeses from the Champagne region. Solstice is often described as indulgent and spicy and is renowned for pairing well with sparkling wine.’ ››

71

BLUE

Blue cheeses come into their own in autumn as their strong, savoury and sometimes spicy notes evoke a sense of comfort and warmth. They're also substantial and satisfying and their ideal ripeness stage often aligns with the cooler months.

Devon Blue Debbie says: ‘This is a handcrafted blue cheese made from quality cow's milk collected locally in the South Hams. It's matured for six to eight months, and is known for its rich buttery texture. It offers a gentle tang with earthy undertones and a subtle sweetness.

Pair with red dessert wines like port.’

Harbourne Blue, Devon ‘Made by Ticklemore Cheese Company from pasteurised goat's milk, this is aged for just ten weeks. It has a creamy and crumbly texture, a clean yogurt aroma and offers a fresh, slightly floral taste with hints of sweetness. Harbourne Blue pairs beautifully

•

Image: Sarah Maingot

with sweet wines.’

72

Lemon‑thyme digestives Scott Paton of Michelin‑starred Àclèaf near Plymouth shares his recipe for this classy cheeseboard accompaniment

Oat flour 200g Wholemeal flour 200g Bicarbonate of soda 1 tsp Light brown sugar 140g Oat milk 8 tbsp Butter 300g, melted Lemon thyme 10g, chopped

1 Mix (preferably using a K‑beater) all the dried ingredients together with the oat milk.

2 Add the melted butter until the mixture combines.

3 Roll the dough out between sheets of baking paper and leave it to rest in the fridge for an hour.

4 Once rested, preheat the oven to 160C, then cut the mixture into the desired shape.

5 Bake for 8 minutes or until the edges turn golden.

Experience Scott's Michelin-starred cooking at Àclèaf, located at Boringdon Hall Hotel in Devon. acleaf.co.uk

73

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Drinks Crack open the story on South West stouts, discover why English still wines are having a moment, and mix up an autumnal Tom Collins

75

F IVE

O F

T HE

B E ST

still wines Jane Rakison reveals why English still wines are currently in vogue – and shares five to bookmark

76

Image:Benjamin Pryor

English

A

sk anyone in the wine trade which style turned the UK into a respectable wine producer and the

answer will be: sparkling. Still wines have been playing catch-up for two decades, but they're finally getting the attention – and awards – they deserve.

In this year's Wine GB Awards, still wines delivered a record performance on the medals front, with South West producers playing a key role in a dynamic

Wraxall, Estate Bacchus 2023, Somerset (12.5%)

new chapter of the English wine story.

Crammed with elderflower and lemon flavours, this

UK still wines tend to fall into one of two

Bacchus has had its complexity elevated a notch after

categories. The first is still wines made

some of it went into oak barrels. This doesn't affect the

with the varietals typically used to make

pingy freshness; it just delivers an extra layer of body

top-brass sparkling wines. These are the

and peachy flavour. Drink with pan-seared scallops.

grapes also found in Champagne, such as

£18, wraxallvineyard.co.uk

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and, occasionally, Pinot Blanc. In our ever-warming climate, these grapes are now maturing well enough to make excellent still wines.

The other category is wines made with unusual grape varieties that, previously, people didn't recognise – and usually couldn't pronounce. Although grown here for many years, they began to be snubbed when the UK wine scene starting building its reputation as a serious player.

Today, it's a different story. Bursting with confidence and boasting a haul of competition medals, these lesser-known varieties are much better accepted. And rightly so; they can be just as delicious as any of their better-known counterparts.

Bow in the Cloud, Cloud Nine 2023, Wiltshire (12.5%) This super-tasty blend of Bacchus with Schönburger has an extra dimension of character thanks to a small portion having spent time in barrel. The famously floral aroma of Bacchus is followed by a creamy texture, then a tangy finish. Enjoy with sesame prawn toast. ›› £14.85, bowinthecloud.co.uk

77

DINE AND UNWIND with St Moritz Hotel + Cowshed Spa

St Moritz Hotel Trebetherick PL27 6SD stmoritzhotel.co.uk

Smith and Evans, Higher Plot Chardonnay 2023, Somerset (12%) With ripe and rich aromas of toasted almonds and banana chips, this unfiltered and unfined (and therefore vegan friendly) wine has a lovely earthy and creamy balance. Drink with a rich autumn veg dish like lentil and cauliflower pilaf. £28, smithandevans.co.uk

Carvers Hill, Rosé 2024, Wiltshire (12.5%) From brand-spanking-new winery Carvers Hill (a name to remember), this rosé is the vineyard's very first release. A blend of Pinot Noir and its cousin Pinot Noir Précoce, this dry pink wine has a fresh salinity with masses of cranberry and pomegranate crunch. Drink with beetroot and hazelnut salad. £27, carvershillestate.com

Lily Farm, Jurassic Red 2022, Dorset (11%) This smooth autumnal red is a marriage of two grapes that like to ripen early – handy in the cooler UK climate. Together, Pinot Noir Précoce and Rondo give this red plenty of earthy hedgerow berry flavours. It's vegan friendly too, and perfect with wild-mushroom risotto. £17.95, lilyfarmvineyard.com

Above: Carvers Hill Rosé and Lily Farm vineyard

79

•

J ANE

R A K IS O N 'S

D RI N K S

D I A RY

Shout-out

for stout Our drinks expert indulges in the ultimate autumn nectar and reveals three South West stouts for your seasonal sip-list

80

O

ozing with deep and decadent flavours, stout is the ultimate autumn drink. Often labelled

a one-trick-pony, nothing could be further from the truth. Dark, creamy and smooth may be the generic style, but its flavours ebb and flow from chocolate to coffee, smoke to biscuits, nuts to caramel and more besides.

The best-known style is the dry or Irish stout, which is super-dark with tonnes of

Mena Dhu, St Austell Brewery, Cornwall (4.5%) The flagship stout of this historic Cornish brewery is named after founder Walter Hicks' family farm Mena Dhu, which translates as ‘black hill’. Brewed with a careful combination of malts, its creaminess sweeps over the palate effortlessly. Flavours begin with an autumnal wood-smoke aroma and hint of liquorice, while the palate reveals a dark-chocolate richness. Serve cool rather than chilled and match with black forest trifle. staustellbrewery.co.uk

roasted flavours. It's the bold stout choice (together with imperial stout) and often has a higher alcohol content.

Milk stout is usually brewed with lactose and these extra sugars can give a touch more sweetness. Oat stouts have a proportion of oats in the barrel, giving them a creamy taste which works wonders with dessert or cake. And, for a smooth and velvety character, chocolate stouts are brewed using roasted dark malts. The richness that categorises all stouts can be traced back to the malt and smoked

This Time Next Year Rodney, Arbor, Bristol (6%) Crafting great ales in Bristol since 2007, Arbor produces a number of stouts including, for ultra decadence, a Mississippi Mud Pie stout. This Time Next Year Rodney is a caramel and chocolate shortbread stout that, true to its name, tastes like liquid millionaire's shortbread.

It shows off a lovely creamy depth and has a nice freshness to finish, thanks to the salted caramel coming through. Serve cool rather than chilled and devour with a super-tangy cheddar. arborales.co.uk

barley used in the brewing process.

Whichever style you choose, pour it at an angle and with care – a tulipshaped glass is the best way to preserve the liquid ebony's smaller bubbles.

Milkshake, Wiper and True, Bristol (5.6%) Wiper and True uses cutting-edge technology to capture the carbon dioxide produced during its beers' fermentation. This is then channelled into other useful processes to prevent its release into the atmosphere.

Even if it didn't boast eco creds, Milkshake delivers. It's a deliciously velvety and indulgent milk stout that, for all its richness, induces a fantastically bright and fresh sensation on the palate. As a result, it's a great choice for stout beginners. Pair with smoky barbecue ribs and serve cool instead of chilled. wiperandtrue.com

81

•

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Autumn

Glow Collins Give your regular Tom Collins an autumnal glow-up with this recipe from Witchmark Distillery in Wiltshire Makes 1

Witchmark Wiltshire Single Origin Gin 60ml Fresh lemon juice 30ml Sugar syrup 25ml Artisan medium/sweet cider 90ml Sparkling water 60ml, or to taste Dehydrated apple slice to garnish

1 Fill a highball glass with ice.

2 Pour the gin, lemon juice and sugar syrup into a cocktail shaker and fill with ice.

3 Secure the lid and shake vigorously for 15 seconds.

4 Strain the contents into the glass over the ice.

5 Add the cider, then top with sparkling water to taste.

6 Stir gently and add apple garnish. witchmark.co.uk

83

Competitions To enter this season's competitions, visit food‑mag.co.uk/win See the website for individual terms and conditions.

Closing date for entries is October 31, 2025.

Fairytales, fables and foodie treats at The Wellington

84

Win a great escape at

The Wellington

T

he Wellington in Boscastle is one of the oldest coaching inns in Cornwall. It perches on the

South West Coast Path and has been feeding and watering passersby since the 16th century.

Walkers like to base themselves in the

The pub, which is owned and run by

routes through rugged countryside and

village as it's surrounded by hiking

St Austell Brewery, recently received

along the coast.

a massive makeover and now offers

Finish a day on the trail with a hearty

significant swoon appeal as well as historical charm.

dinner (a choice of pub-classic favourites

The bedrooms enjoy serious bougie

pint of something good from the raft of

or more contemporary dishes) and a

factor. Plush natural materials, squishy

St Austell Brewery beers.

beds and all the mod cons make

PRIZE A two-night stay for two people

The Wellington's sleeping quarters a find for a dreamy getaway in this picturesque

at The Wellington in Boscastle.

corner of Cornwall.

QUESTION In which county will you

Boscastle is a fascinating village with

find The Wellington?

wonky rooftops, crooked cottages and a

wellingtonhotelboscastle.com

picturesque harbour. It's also home to the Museum of Witchcraft and Magic, quaint teashops and charming indie stores.

85

Win lunch at

Sidmouth Donkey Sanctuary

I

magine indulging in farm-fresh dishes while feasting your eyes on pretty pastoral scenes of donkeys

grazing in paddocks, Devon's rolling hills and the Jurassic Coast.

scenic trails and walks and make some new four-hoofed friends along the way.

The winner of our competition, plus a

For the cute factor, a stop-off at the

lucky companion, will get guaranteed

Dawn Barn, which houses miniature

window seats when they tuck into

donkeys, is a must.

lunch at The Kitchen, the Taste of the West award-winning restaurant at

The pair will also get a chance to

Sidmouth Donkey Sanctuary.

discover more about the work of this remarkable charity that transforms the

Everything is made on-site in a menu that

lives of millions of donkeys worldwide.

includes stonebaked pizzas, speciality wraps and burgers, all crafted from local

PRIZE Lunch and drinks at a window

and seasonal produce. Light nibbles,

table for two at The Kitchen in

such as halloumi bites with hot honey,

Sidmouth Donkey Sanctuary.

are perennially popular with the flock of

QUESTION

animal lovers who visit the sanctuary to

What's

the

name

of

the building where the miniature

experience its award-winning gardens

donkeys are stabled?

and adorable residents.

thedonkeysanctuary.org.uk

Once our winners have satiated their appetites, they can either sit and soak up the views across the veranda or roam through one of the Sanctuary's many

86

The lovely rural surroundings also set the

Win an Essential Spa Break at

tone for a nature-centic, hour-long spa treatment using GAIA products. Choose from GAIA journeys (experiences that awaken, calm or balance the body and mind), facials and

Budock Vean Hotel and Spa

body treatments.

Once the power of touch and essential oils have worked their magic on skin and muscles, a sumptuous dinner completes the day of indulgence. Classic cooking is showcased in

J

dishes such as pan-fried breast of guinea fowl

ust the mere utterance of the word ‘spa’

followed by baked chocolate mousse.

conjures up images of relaxed watery bliss.

For those in search of an aquatic antidote

Following a night's tranquil slumber in a restful

to stress, the superb experience at Budock Vean

contemporary room, a trad brekkie awaits.

Hotel and Spa offers the prospect of profoundly

Forget chia seeds or smashed avo, health and

peaceful pampering.

wellbeing at this hotel comes in the form of a VisitEngland Award-winning feast that includes

If you love dressing up for dinner and joyful

cereals, juices, freshly baked bread and a hearty

routes to bucolic wellbeing, then the 65-acre

cooked breakfast of your choice.

secluded Cornish estate on a quiet bend of the Helford River should be your go-to.

PRIZE An Overnight Essential Spa Break for two which includes breakfast, dinner, use

Autumn and winter enticements during an

of the Natural Health Spa facilities and a

Overnight Essential Spa Break include an

60-minute spa treatment each.

indoor swimming pool and an aspen wood Finnish sauna. Weather permitting, such

QUESTION The gardens and golf course at

restorative water-and-heat therapies are best

Budock Vean Hotel and Spa lead down to

gilded with a sesh in the outdoor hot tub. This

which Cornish river?

bubbling cauldron of calm sits on a super-chic

budockvean.co.uk

Scandinavian-style raised deck with views across the gardens.

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Food Lifestyle directory Join our subcriber tribe!

Food Lifestyle supports the region's food, hospitality and lifestyle culture and champions independent businesses. If you'd like to support Food Lifestyle magazine, join the cause and become a subscriber. Get four seasonal issues delivered to your door, plus a weekly email newsletter with new openings and hot finds. £25 per year. food-mag.co.uk/subscribe

Marshford Organic Foods Visit Marshford's farm shop in Northam, north Devon, for a fabulous array of fresh and seasonal organic veggies, salads and herbs – many homegrown.

Local fish, meat, eggs, bread, dairy products (including a selection of interesting cheeses) and a wide variety of environmentally friendly and organic groceries are also available from the store, while veg boxes and produce can be delivered.

Visit the shop or order online for collection and local deliveries. marshford.co.uk

Bearslake Inn Tucked away in Dartmoor National Park, Bearslake Inn is a 13th-century thatched gastropub offering a warm welcome, exceptional food and six charming rooms.

With head chef Connor Smart at the helm, expect beautifully crafted dishes using the finest local ingredients. Unwind in the stunning pub garden with its stream, and take the dog too – it's very pooch friendly. bearslakeinn.com

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Restaurant Kensington

Indy Coffee Guide London app

Visit this Exmoor restaurant to

Have the best speciality coffee in

feast on exceptional local beef

London at your fingertips at all

in a high-end steak experience.

times with the new Indy Coffee

Smart fish, lamb and chicken

Guide London app. Only cafes and

dishes, plus a range of delicious

coffee shops that meet exacting

sides, also feature on a menu

standards are included. It's your

built around local and seasonal

passport to some outstanding

produce. A contemporary and

coffee experiences.

memorable dining experience.

indycoffee.guide

restaurantkensington.co.uk

Penventon Park Hotel

The Grey Lurcher

Celebrate the art of flavour in the

Browse

Dining Galleries Restaurant and

luxury

homewares

and contemporary gifts at this

Copper Bar of this lovely hotel.

Falmouth store. The shop stocks

Indulgent dinners and traditional

Annie Sloan chalk paint, luxury

afternoon teas are complemented

home fragrances from Illumens

by an extensive wine and cocktail

Candles, jewellery, greetings

list and served in an inviting

cards, French soap and other

atmosphere that's perfect for both

quality items.

casual and special occasions.

greylurcherfalmouth.com

penventon.co.uk

The Queen's Arms

The Ilchester Arms

At this lovely dining pub on the

The weekly changing menu

Dorset/Somerset border, the focus

at this 16th-century thatched

is on exceptional food – from

pub in Symondsbury is crafted

pub classics to elevated dishes

from superb local produce and

– made from locally sourced

complemented with natural wine

ingredients. This is bolstered by a wide selection of drinks and ten

and regional beers.

luxurious guestrooms. Dogs and

Open Wednesday to Sunday.

muddy boots encouraged!

ilchesterarmssymondsbury.co.uk

thequeensarms.com

Find more Food Lifestyle online Want another bite of the Food Lifestyle cherry? You'll find heaps of fresh features on our website, including travel guides, cool places to stay, recipes, interviews with tastemakers,‛Five of the best’ features, restaurant reviews and ‛Tried and Tested’ write ups. It's the insiders' guide to special finds across the South West. food-mag.co.uk

89

Stockists

Here are just a few of the exceptional places you can pick up a copy of Food Lifestyle. Find the full list at food‑mag.co.uk Bath

Devon

Ashburton Cookery School

Somerset

Always Sunday Town + House Beckford Bottle Shop

Ashburton Deli

Chandos Deli

Chandos Deli

Ben's Farm Shop

Dunster Living

Colonna & Small's

Boringdon Hall Hotel

FARA

Cortado Café

Bovey Castle

Farrington's Farm

No.15 by GuestHouse Hotels

Darts Farm

Flourish Food Hall

Gidleigh Park

Holm

Glebe House

Homewood

Harbour Beach Club

Horrell & Horrell

Lympstone Manor

Iford Manor Estate

Marshford Organic Foods

Little Walcot

Cornwall

Rangemoors

Lord Poulett Arms

Beach House Falmouth

River Cottage

MAKE

Bedruthan Hotel & Spa

Riverford Field Kitchen

Number One Bruton

Da Bara Bakery, St Mawes

The Bull Inn, Totnes

Teals

Electric Bakery

The Cheese Larder

The Barrington Boar

Fee's Food

Lilac Bakery

The Bath Priory

Fistral Beach Hotel and Spa

The Lost Kitchen

The Cellarhand

Great Cornish Food Store

The Millbrook Inn

The Cotley Inn

The Salutation Inn

The Holcombe

Waitrose Okehampton

The Manor House Inn, Ditcheat

Picnic Coffee Robun The Fine Cheese Co. The Royal Crescent

Indidog Jo & Co Home Kota Padstow Farm Shop Porthminster Beach Café Scarlet Hotel St Kew Farmshop & Café St Michaels Resort St Moritz Hotel Strong Aldofos The Alverton Hotel The Greenbank Hotel The Grey Lurcher The Headland Hotel, Cottages & Spa The Idle Rocks The Old Coastguard The Square at Porthleven Tinkture Trevisker's Kitchen Trudgian Farm Shop

Brown & Forrest

The Talbot Inn

Dorset

The Three Horseshoes, Batcombe

Acorn Inn

Vintage & Vine

Crab House Cafe

White Row Farm Shop

Langham Wine Estate Majestic Wine, Dorchester RISE Market & Bakery

Wiltshire Little Rituals

Seaside Boarding House

Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa

Soulshine

Majestic Wine, Devizes

Summer Lodge Hotel

Majestic Wine, Marlborough

SWIM

The Bath Arms

The Club House

The Beckford Arms

The Three Horseshoes

The Bell & Crown

The Queen's Arms

The Bradley Hare

Tom's Lyme Regis

The Dog & Gun Inn

Town Mill Bakery

The Fleur de Lys

Waitrose Bridport

The Great Bustard

Gloucestershire

The Grosvenor Arms The Old Bell Hotel, Malmesbury

Arc Espresso Bar + Deli

The Pembroke Arms

Daylesford Organic Farm

The Queen's Head

Ritual Coffee Roasters Bar & Kitchen Scandinavian Coffee Pod The Cheeseworks The Slaughters Country Inn Vinotopia

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Escape the Ordinary Penventon Park Hotel I N C O R N WA L L TR15 1TE | 01209 203000 | enquiries@penventon.com | www.penventon.co.uk

Cornish food stories at Brasserie on the Bay

stmichaelsresort.com