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WELCOME ¬ ­ Ŵ ƚ ²ų TO LAOS & ¡¤ƪ »¢ ¥Ƶ¡ SABAIDEE ¢»¡ ¢ ¡ ¢ ­ MAGAZINE Ĺ

ļŁĸƘijĿįNJĪ ħŁģ įljĮĮŁĭŃģŁĮ

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abaidee Magazine would like to wish everyone a warm welcome to our brand new lifestyle and travel magazine, and more importantly to the beautiful Lao PDR. This is an exciting time for all involved in the creation of this publication that have sweated tears to bring you this inaugural edition.

Lao is quickly becoming South-East-Asia ’s newest tourist destination merging its colonial past with some fascinating new travel trends, especially at the World Heritage City, Luang Prabang, which leads our cover story this month!

ŁĸĿĺŁĮĺĿįŁĩĪń ĤŗīŻļĮĽljįĺňź ĹŁĸĿĺŁĮģźŋĹģljį ĽňįōưįĨńĹŃĪ ōƹĿ ģŁĮĭźļĦĭźŋĹ ļljĮŏǀź ōƹĿ ĭƂĺƘĥljĮĭƂĺŇĪ ĤŗīŻļĮĽljįĺňź ĺİİ ĸŁĹ ĭƂĺĹĩĦŁĵ. ĮƉōƶźĮŌƺĸŁĭƂŢŻŁīƄĮŌƬƇĮ ĺƘĸljįĭŇģĥNJĮĭƂŐƫŻĵńĺźĹĮĽźĹĵŏƯģŁ Į ļļģŌƼƄļ ŌƮĶŁĪĮƘœīŁ ŌƴƄļĮƘĺĿŌƿń ĺĿįljįĺĿĬŁİĿĮŁ ĮƉ. İĿŌƮĪĸŁĹ ģƘĸljĦģŁĩĵŁŌƱŀĮħŇĪţŁĩİŁĩĭŁĦōƼźĦŏǀźŏƯļŁ ĨńīŁŌƺŀĮļļģĺźŋĦŏƬŻĺƘĸljį ĮljģĭźļĦĭźŋĹ ĪŻĹĩģŁĮİĿĺNJĵİĿĺŁĮ ļŁĪńĪŌƶņļĦĤƊĮ ŌƥƌŁģljį ōƯĹŎƯŻĵģŁĮĭźļĦĭźŋĹōưįŏǀźĭƂ ŌƱŀĮīŁĺNJĮŏƨ ŎƫĩĺĿŌƴŁĿōƶźĮ ŌƶņļĦĵŗĸĿĪNJģŎƹģ ƍĹĦijĿįŁĦ ŌƩƁĦōƶźĮŌƹƄļĦĮƘŢŻŁİNJģĤļĦŌƾʼnŁ ŏƯŌƫņļĮĮƉ!

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ver the upcoming months and years, we aim to bring you the best of Lao – from dining options, shopping and culture, to local news, must see attractions and off-the-beatentrack locations, with a smattering of real estate and lifestyle choices thrown in for good measure. Laos is rapidly evolving and becoming more accessible to everyone day by day.

he country ’s diversity knows no bounds! In the rst issue of Sabaidee Magazine, we will take you on a journey of a lifetime to Muang Ngoi Nuea. Escape with an amazing rst-hand experience of exploring Phou Khao Khouay and beyond.

Treat your palate with Cuppa Lao and the authentic local Lao avors courtesy of the street vendors. If you fancy something a bit more upmarket, La Signature Restaurant in Vientiane personies ne-dining and the simplicity of French cuisine. on ’t travel through Lao PDR alone, please bring b br ing in g Sabaidee Saba Sa baid dee e Magazine Mag agaz a ine e along alon al ong g as your you ourr quinquin qu in-tessential tess te ssen e tiall Laos Lao os travel trav vel companion com ompa p ni nion on and nd learn lea earn rn mo ore about this eclectic country and its colormore ful culture and humble people.

All the Best.

The Editor

Į ŌƫņļĮ ōƹĿ İń īſŢŻŁ ijĹģŌƾʼnŁīǍĦŏƨĹźŁħĿĮƘĺĿŌƿńīſĭźŁĮ ļljĮĭƂĪńĭƂĺŇĪĤļĦĸŁĹ īǍĦōƬź ĭŁĦŌƹņļģŏƯģŁĮģŃĮļŁĻŁĮ ģŁĮħljįħźŁĩ ōƹĿ ĹljĪĭĿĮĿĭƘ ŐƱħNJĮŌƭŃĦ ĤźŁĹijŁĩŏƯ ĺƁĦŢŻŁĺNJĮŏƨĭƂīŻļĦŌƼŀĮ ōƹĿ ĺĿĬŁĮĭƂĭƂįſĥźļĩĵńĥNJĮŌƥƌŁŌƭŃ Ħ ijŻļĵĪŻĹĩĭŁĦŌƹņļģĪŻŁĮ ļĿĺljĦĻŁĸŃĵĿĨljį ōƹĿ ĹŃĬńĨńĹŃĪ ŌƴƂĵŌƥƌŁĮƘŌƴƄļĵŁĪīĿģŁĮĭƂĪń. İĿŌƮĪĸŁĹ ĮljįĹljĮ ģƘĸljĦ ĹŃĹljĪ ōƹĿ ģŁĩĵŁŌƱŀĮ įźļĮĭƂĭŇģĥNJĮŌƥƌŁŌƭŃĦŐƫŻ.

ĹŁĵƍŁģƍŁĩĤļĦİĿŌƮĪĮƉōƶźĮįſĵńĤļįŌƥĪ! ŏƯĺĿįljįĭƘļŃĪĤļĦ ĹŁĸĿĺŁĮĺĿįŁĩĪń ijĹģŌ ĽNJŁħĿijŁĭźŁĮŐƱĺňźģŁĮŌƫńĮĭŁĦōƼźĦĨńĹŃĪŏƯŌƶņ ļĦĦļĩŌƿņļ. ƍNJįŢńŐƱĺňźİĿĺNJįģŁĮ ĭƂŢŻŁļljĪĺĿħljĮĭƂīŻļ ĦĺƘijljĪĪŻĹĩīNJĹŌƽĦĤļĦģŁĮĺƘƍĹĪ ijňŌƥʼnŁĥĹŁĩ ōƹĿ ŌƥĪļŻļĵōƽŻĵ. ŏƼŻĸŁĦĹljĮģljįĸƉĮĤļĦīNJĮ ĪŻĹĩ ĥljįİŁĸŁĹ ōƹĿ ĸNJĪĨŁĪōưįijƋĮįŻŁĮĸŁĹōƮŻ ħŁģĽŻŁĮĤŁĩļŁĻŁĮōƦĵĭŁĦ. ĬŻŁĭźŁĮĥŃĪĶŁģōƯĹĭƂĵńĸŁĥŁĤƊĮĵŁōƫź ĽŻŁĮļŁĻŁĮ ĸŁĨŃģĮŁīĹŋģ ŏƯĹŋĦħljĮ ģſŌƱŀĮīNJĹōƮĮĥĹŁĵĸŋįĦźŒŁĩĤļĦļŁ ĻŁĮIJķNjĦĨǍĮŌƹńĪ īŻļĦĭź ļĦ Ħĭź ĭŋĹļŻ ŋĹļŻļĵĸŁĹĥNJ ĵĸ ĮĪŋĹ ĭźŁĮĥĹĮ Ĭņ ĹŁĸĿ ĹŁ ĿĺŁ ĺŁĮĺ Į ĿįŁ īŃĪīNJĹŌƱŀĮŌƴƄļĮĭźŋĹĸŁĹ ĹŁĸĿĺŁĮĺĿįŁĩĪń ōư ưįĵ įĵńō ń ƤźĮĺŁĮ ōưįĵń ĺŁĮĤļĦĭźŁĮĮƘ ōƹĿ ĽŋĮĽňŻģźŋĹģljįİĿŌ ĭĪĭƂİĿĺNJĵİĿĺŁĮĮƉ İĿĺŁ İĿ ŁĮĮ ĮĮƉƉ ij ijŻŻļĵģljįİĿĨŁĨNJĮĭƂĵń ĺńĺljĮ ōƹĿ ĬźļĵīNJĹ ĤļĦŌ ĤļĦŌƴƁ Ħ ƴƁ ƴĮ. ĪŻĹĩĥĹŁĵİŁĪĬĿŢŁĪń įljĮĮŁĭŃģŁĮ

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S ABAIDEE

ຄະນະຜູຈັaດທຳa Editorial Team

àåÕçÏÐê öÞùàåöÑ óâÔ òÓÝòßÞ

LIFESTYLE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE | 2012.1.1

ST

THEU1E ISòÞSøÛĈìøÌ

LIFESTYLE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE | 2012.1.1

INTERVIEW WITH INTHY DEANSAVANH

ÙîòƦïçËßçÏ õưÉçÔòƬêÔÖĠç ãĠßÛÉƟÕËîĠòƬêÔÓçÌÓĨÛêÔƓùõƩ

22

õƱĈġçõǁĠ

NEW FACE ÊâÌijßÌÙåÕçÌ OF LUANG PRABANG

MUANG NGOI NEUA

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK IN LAOS

1 àåÕçÏÐê öÞùàåöÑ óâÔ òÓÝòßÞ

TANTALIZE YOUR TASTE BUDS IN LAO SHOP RELAX AND

Laos 25,000 KIP Thailand 100 THB Singapore 4 SGD

DINING OUT GUIDE IN LAOS & ETC.

Regulars

10 Calendar of Events (Jan-Feb) 12 Hot Deals / Travel Promotions 14 PR News 72 Sabaidee Club

Travel

16 Special Report 22 Sabaidee Cover 34 Lao Rooms 36 Travel Feature 42 Escape 48 Feature - Lao Coffee 58 Feature Green Care Fund

Lifestyle

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THIS ISSUE January / February 2012

40 Real Estate 46 Sabaidee Guest 50 Lao Cuisine 53 Restaurant Review 54 iTems 55 Sabaidee Relax

Directory Listing 52 Dine Out Listing 54 Shop Listing 57 Health & Spa Guide Listing

Map & Info

60 Map of Laos 61 Lao's General Information 62 Vientiane Map & Info 64 Vang Vieng Map & Info 66 Pakse / Champasak Map & Info 68 Savannakhet Map & Info 70 Luang Prabang Map & Info

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48

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ຄະນ ນະທປຶ ປຶກສາ | Co onsu ulta ants ພັaນລະຄ ຄອນ ສີບຸນເຮື ຮື​ືອງ Pan nlako on Sibru uan ng ອະນ ນຸວງົa ຈັaນທະລ ລານ ນຸວົaງ Ano ouvo ong Jan ntala anuvvon ng ພັaດທະລ ລະພົaງ ຄົaົaງວິຈິ ຈດ ິ Patttarapo ong Kon ngvijit ວິສິດ ເຊົາວະລິດຕານ ນົaນ Wissitth Chaw waliitan non ຜູອຳaນ ຳaນວຍການ Dire ector ມານ ນະໄຊ ຊ ອິນແກ ກວ Man nach hai Inka aew w ບັaນນາທ ທິການບໍລິ ລຫ ິ ານ Edito or in n Chief ເກດ ດ ພິດທະຢ ຢາກ ກອນ ນສິນ Gaid d Ko ornsilap pa ບັaນນາທ ທິການ Edito or ສົaມໃຈ ພີມຜາສຸກ Som mjai Pim mpassou uk ບັaນນາທ ທິການ ພາສາ າອັaງກິດ Eng glish Edittor ອະລ ລັaນ ວາດ Alan Wass ບັaນນາທ ທິການອອ ອນລ ລາຍ Onlin ne Editor ຄະນ ນິດຖາ ອິດຕະ ະເມ ມດ Kan nittha a Attam mate e ຈັaດໜ ໜາ  ແລະ ອອ ອກແ ແບບ Layo out Design n ນັaດນະລ ລີ ມາທອງງ Nutn nare ee Mathhon ng ກອນ ນແກ ກວ ນົaກແກວ Korrnka aew Nokkka aew ຝາຍຂາຍ ຍ ແລະ ການ ນຕະ າດ Sale es & Marke etin ng ຜູອຳaນ ຳaນວຍການຝ ຝາຍຂາຍ Sale es & Marke etin ng Dirrec cto or ຊາຢ ຢາດາ າ ອະລິຍະຜົa ຜົaນຈະ ະເລີ ລີນ Cha ayad da Ariya aph honchharroen ຜູຈ  ດ ັa ການ ນຝາຍກ ການ ນຕະລ ລາດ ດ Marrketiing Man nag ger ນັaນທະນ ນາ ອິນແກ ກວ Nan nthana a Inka aew w ຜູຈດ ັa ການ ນຝາຍຂ ຂາຍ ຍ Sale es Manage er ພະຊ ຊາກອ ອນ ພະຫ ຫູລັa ລກ ັa Passako orn Bhahhurrak ຫົaວໜ ໜາ  ຝາຍການ ນເງິນ Fina ancial Conttrolle er ສີລິວັaນ ວີລະວັaດທະນ ນະໄຊ ຊ Siriw wan n weera avatttana achhai

ສຳaນ ນັaກງານ ນຂາຍ | Sales Offfice e ສະບ ບາຍດ ດີ ເມ ມກາ າຊີນ, ທຣອປ ປີຄອລ ລ ໂອ ອເອຊີ​ີດພາ າກ ບານວິຊຸນ, ຖະໜ ໜົaນ ໄຊເສ ໜົa ສດຖ ຖາທິລາດ, ວງພ ພະບາງ ສ.ປ.ປ ປ. ລາ າວ Sab baide ee Mag gazin ne, Tro opica al Oa asiis Park, Ban n Vissoun, Cha aic chettthhatiratt Roa ad, Lu uang g Prab bang, Lao P.D D.R R. ໂທ: 071 1 252 933 ແຟັກ: 071 212 818 8 Tel: 071 252 933 3 Fax x: 071 212 818 Ema ail: sales@ @sab baide ee-mag gazin ne.c com www w.sab baidee e-m magazin ne.co om ເຈາຂ ຂອງງ ແລະ ຜູຈດ ັa ພິມ | Owne er & Publisshe er ທີ ເອັ ອັສ ເອັມ THM M LAO ບານວິຊຸນ, ຖະໜ ໜົaນ ໄຊເສ ໜົa ສດຖ ຖາທິລາດ, ວງພ ພະບາງ ສ.ປ ປ.ປ ປ. ລາວ ວ Ban n Vissoun, Cha aic chettthhatiratt Roa ad, Lu uang g Prab bang, Lao P.D D.R R.

John Yates

S ABAIDE E

John Yates has been a Southeast Asia enthusiast for as long as he can remember. An avid writer and foodie with an academic background that spans business, political science and linguistics, he has lived in China and Thailand and has traveled extensively throughout the Indochina region.

CON TRI BU TORS

Alan Wass

Alan Wass is a native English speaking writer who has worked for publications across Thailand that include the Phuket Gazette, Phuket Post, Day&Night Magazine, The Phuketian and Top10Phuket, alongside some of the biggest property websites in Thailand such as Siam Real Estate and Thailand holiday Homes. Passionate about his job and with a quirky sense of humor, Alan is the stereotypical disillusioned writer/editor putting words together in a certain way that resembles sentences and paragraphs.

Melissa Richter

Melissa has a real passion for living and believes that everything in life should be experienced at least once. She is an American who has lived in Bangkok since 2004 and as a travel and food writer she has traversed the globe in search of the perfect bite. Melissa is also a MSW social worker with a background in the travel industry as a flight attendant and travel consultant. Melissa currently works as a food and travel writer for leading international magazines including Sur La Terre Bangkok, Restaurants of Bangkok and Bangkok Best Restaurant &Entertainment as well working as the Bangkok Travel Examiner for Examiner.com and as a i-reporter for CNN Go.

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Jennifer Brown

Originally from the US, Jenn has lived and worked in the tourism industry in Asia for over five years. Having called everywhere from rural Sichuan province to the bustling streets of Saigon home, she cites Beijing as her favourite. She currently resides in Vientiane where she enjoys playing â&#x20AC;&#x153;beachâ&#x20AC;? frisbee on the sandbar in the middle of the Mekong River, and never tires of eating a bowl of local noodle soup accompanied by an iced Lao coffee.

A Place Of Memorable Experiences In Luang Prabang

Tropical Garden Restaurant The Most Authentic Thai Cuisine in Town

The Chill Out Escape

A Stylish Budget Accommodation Option in Luang Prabang

The Ultimate Relaxation Hideaway

FOR RESERVATIONS, PLEASE CONTACT: 125 Unit 7, Bane Vixoun, Luang Prabang, Lao PDR Tel: +856 (0) 71 212 642, +856 (0) 71 252 933 www.tropicaloasispark.com

LAO CALENDAR

Sikhottabong Festival 07 February

Venue : That Sikhottabong, Khammouane

2012

JANUARY FEBRUARY

This religious festival is held at Sikhottabong stupa, located about 8km south of Thakhek.

A trade fair also held during the festival featuring the display and sales of products from more than 130 booths from nine districts within the central provinces along with goods from neighboring Thailand.

Wat Phou Festival 07 February

Venue : Wat Phou, Champasak Wat Phu Festival is annually held on the full moon of the 3rd month of lunar calendar, on the grounds of the enchanting pre-Angkorian Wat Phu remains in Champasak. Festivities include elephants racing, buffaloes fighting, cock fighting and performances of Lao traditional music and dance.

The trade fair showcasing the products from the southern provinces of Laos, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam is also held.

Elephant Festival Sayaboury 17-19 February

Venue : Sayaboury The event features approximately 60 brightly adorned pachyderms competing for â&#x20AC;&#x153;Elephant of the Yearâ&#x20AC;?, along with elephant processions and bathing, mahout demonstrations, traditional Buddhist blessings, fun fairs, night markets, and live performances.

Lao Food Festival End of February Venue : Vientiane

At the National Cultural Hall in Vientiane, over 80 booths, mainly from Vientiane Capital, Vientiane (province), Savannakhet, Champassak, Khammouane, Sayaboury, Luang Prabang, Xiengkhouang and Houaphanh, demonstrate and sell food and handicraft items.

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THE SPIRIT OF TRAVEL AND CULTURE

Tropical Magazine

Online copies can be downloaded unlimitedly at App Store.

www.tropical-magazine.com |

Available in leading bookshops in Thailand, Singapore, Brunei, Malaysia, Indonesia and Hong Kong.

tropicalmagazine

HOT DEALS & PROMOTIONS

SPECIAL OFFERS FROM SALANA BOUTIQUE HOTEL Salana Corner are offereing up to 11 bottles of fine wine at just $20 USD net to celebrate the opening of its wine bar. Drop by at Salana Corner today, before the deal is over! Also, early bird planners will be rewarded with up to 14% discount on room stays. Email for more enquiries on our special internet rates at wecare@salanaboutique.com or call (+856) 21 254 254.

SPECIAL PROMOTIONS AT THE BELLE RIVE Book three-nights from Thursday to Sunday for the special price of 333USD (+ 10% tax) for one or two persons. The price includes accommodation (superior room) including breakfast, transport to and from the airport, a dinner at our terrace and daily sundowners on the house. For more information call +856 71 260 733 or visit www.thebellerive.com.

HOT TRAVEL DEALS WITH EASIA TRAVEL 12

Enjoy a stunning three-day tour with Easia Travel. Get an insight into the everyday lives of Laotian elephants and their mahouts from Luang Prabang to Pakbeng. Learn the basic techniques of elephant training and how to evaluate the health of these majestic beats on the first day near Ban Houay Ka Village. Take advantage of this great opportunity to ride the elephants and learn about their trainers while trekking through some of the most beautiful rain forest imaginable. For more information about the tour, and many more across the region contact (84-4) 3933 1362, email: info@easia-travel.com or visit www.Easia-travel.com

SWEET, SUITE INDULGENCE AT SHINTA MANI LUANG PRABANG

Lovers get a special treat with a package featuring a two-night stay in the 121sqm pool villa with private pool and large bedroom facing a majestic mountain view. The Pool Villa is made even more irresistible with a romantic floral bath for 2, champagne and chocolates.

The couple also gets a choice for a romantic retreat with either an intimate candlelit dinner by the pool or a spa treatment for him and her during their stay.

Package is at US$422.00++ per night, minimum of 2 nights required. * Inclusive of Round trip airport Transfers, Pool Villa Accommodation, Spa or Dinner Credits for 2 persons; Honeymoon set-up in the room (Champagne, Chocolates and Floral Bath Set-up).

Subject to government tax and service charges.

Offer is valid until March 31, 2012. For more information contact +856 71 260560

PR BULLETINS

A

s Laos starts to become a fledgling tourist destination, the infrastructure and attitude towards tourism is also rapidly changing to accommodate travelers from the four corners of the globe. Lao Airlines, which is the national carrier of the country, has just received delivery of one new A320 aircraft from Airbus, with the second one to come. The new aircraft were greatly accepted at a welcoming ceremony in Vientiane by Somsavat Lengsavad, Deputy Prime Minister of the Lao People's Democratic Republic and Thierry Mariani, French Minister of Transport.

LAO AIRLINES BECOMES NEW AIRBUS OPERATOR

FIRST A320

FOR NATIONAL CARRIER WELCOMED IN VIENTIANE The second A320 should be delivered to Lao Airlines next month, and will be used on route to key destinations across South-East-Asia, which includes Singapore and Bangkok. These are the first jet aircrafts to be purchased by Lao Airlines that feature high comfort interiors with 126 passenger seats and 16 seats in Business Class. All these new aircraft are powered with CFM56 engines courtesy of CFM International.

"The A320 will see Lao Airlines introduce a new level of premium service as we expand our international route network," said Somphone Douangdara, President of Lao Airlines. "In addition to the highest standards of in-flight comfort, Lao Airlines will also benefit from the extremely low operating costs offered by these modern, fuel-efficient aircraft."

"We are pleased to welcome Lao Airlines as a new Airbus operator," said John Leahy, Chief Operating Officer, Customers, Airbus. "With the A320 in its fleet, Lao Airlines joins over 260 airlines worldwide operating the industry’s best-selling single aisle product line, offering proven passenger appeal, outstanding reliability and unbeatable operating costs."

The A320 Family (A318, A319, A320 and A321) is recognized as the benchmark in its class. With more than 7,900 aircraft sold and over 4,800 delivered, it is the world’s most successful singleaisle aircraft product line.

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ການບິນລາວ

ກາຍມາເປັນຜູປະກອບການແອບັaສໃໝ

ການບິນລາວ າງມໆນ ໄດຮັaບເຮືອບິນລຳaໃໝລຸນ A320 ລຳaທຳaອິດ ຈາກແອບັaສ. ພິທີຕອນຮັaບໄດ ຈັaດຂນທວຽງຈັaນ ເຂາຮວມໂດຍແຂກພິເສດ ເຊນ ທານ ຮອງລັaດຖະມົaນຕີ ສົaມສະ າດ ເລງສະ ັaດ, ແລະ ເທຍຣີ ມາຣີອານີ ລັaດຖະມົaນຕີຄົaມມະນາຄົaມ ຂອງຝຣaງ. ເຮືອບິນ A320 ລຳaທີສອງ ຈະສaງມາຮອດ ການບິນລາວ ໃນເດືອນໜາ ແລະ ຈະໄດຖືກນຳaໃຊເຂາໃນການເດີນສາຍໄປສູປາ ຍທາງທaວທະວີບ ອາຊີຕາເວັນອອກສຽງໃຕ ເຊງລວມທັaງ ສິງກະໂປ ແລະ ບາງກອກ.

TRAVEL REPORT

THE OFFICIAL OPENING OF THE 3RD THAI-LAO

FRIENDSHIP BRIDGE

T

his is an exciting time for Lao PDR with the 3rd Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge being officially inaugurated on the auspicious date of 11/11/11 at 11am. Many dignitries and VIPs were there to open the bridge, chaired by Her Royal Highness Princess Sirindhorn and also including Thai Prime Minister, Yingluck

Lao and Thailand, also including Vietnam so closer ties regarding culture, trade and economics.

Shinawatra. The bridge links Nakhon Phanom in Thailand and the Khammoun Provinces in Lao, while also incorporating more integration in the Greater Mekong sub-region. The event was broadcast live on Thai television.

The construction of the bridge is indeed a great way to build a closer relationship between Laos and Thailand, as well as being an economic corridor to Vietnam. The bridge commercially opened on 12 November, with the first group of travelers paying 50baht each for privet cars making the crossing. Cars with seating arrangements of 7 to 12 seats will be charged a fee of 100baht, while those with 12 to 24 seats are 150baht. Buses that have 24 seats or more will pay 200baht.

Starting construction in May 2009, the project has cost Bt 1,723 Million, which was paid by the Thai Government, although the Lao government did provide the land and tax privileges on the importation of construction materials and machinery.

The new 1.4 kilometer long bridge will become a link, mainly through the AH15 Asian Route, connecting Laos, Vietnam, Thailand and southern China. The bridge will also bring together greater unity and cooperation between

ຂົaວມິດຕະພາບ

“This bridge is a symbol of friendship and cooperation between the Lao PDR and Thailand,” said Prime Minister Thongsing Thammavong.

The 3rd Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge marks a new era for Thai and Lao relations, which is not only good in governmental and economic terms but also for those traveling across this stunning part of South-East-Asia.

ນແມນເວລາອັaນໜາຕນເຕນສຳaລັaບ ສປປ ລາວ ທຂົaວມິດຕະພາບ ລາວ-ໄທ ໄດເປີດນຳaໃຊ ຢາງເປັນທາງການ ໃນວັaນມົaງຄຸນ ທ 11 ພະຈິກ 2011 ໃນເວລາ 11 ໂມງ. ແຂກ ຜູມີກຽດ ແລະ ພິເສດ າຍຄົaນໄດເຂາຮວມພິທີເປີດ ໂດຍການເປັນປະທານຂອງ ເຈາຍິງ ສິຣິດົaນ ພອມດວຍ ລັaດຖະມົaນຕີ ທານ ຍິງລັaກ ຊິນນະວັaດ ຂອງໄທ. ຂົaວເສນນ ເຊອມຕລະ າງ ແຂວງນະຄອນພະນົaມ ຂອງໄທ ແລະ ແຂວງຄຳaມວນ ຂອງລາວ ໃນຂະນະດຽວກັaນກຮວມເອົາການປະສົaມປະສານກັaນຂອງພາກພນ ລຸມແມນຳa້ຂອງ. ພິທີດaງກາວໄດອອກອາກາດສົaດຜານໂທລະພາບໄທ.

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SPECIAL REPORT

WHETHER ON YOUR FIRST VISIT OR ONE OF MANY, THERE HAS NEVER BEEN A BETTER TIME TO EXPLORE LAOS THAN RIGHT NOW, AND TRAVELLERS TO SOUTHEAST ASIA ARE DOING JUST THAT IN GROWING NUMBERS

THE TIME FOR LAOS IS NOW ROB COLE

W

ith out-of-the-way destinations more reachable than ever before, it’s easy to tailor your Lao adventure to combine the splendour of the regular tourist destinations with travels off the beaten track to the rural heart of the country.

For most visitors the journey begins in Vientiane, a capital like no other whose centre has an enduring village-like quality, filled with a jumble of shaded temples, shop-houses and colonial-era villas, while further out the city is expanding fast with an eye firmly on the future.

From the capital, whether heading north or south, a scenic journey awaits - across the endless beau-

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ty of the mountainous northern provinces, or following the mighty Mekong River south through the lowlands to Siphandone (the ‘Four Thousand Islands’).

In either case, opportunities for adventure and exploration abound, and for several years ecotourism in particular has been on the rise in Laos. The UNESCO-listed former royal capital of Luang Prabang, as well as being a must-see destination in itself, offers a jumping off point for numerous trekking destinations in Laos’s northern National Protected Areas.

In the other direction, Thakhek provides a relaxed base for exploring the karst wonderland of Khammuan province, in which the

GAID P. KORNSILAPA

‘Thakhek Loop’ motorbike circuit is an increasingly popular section of longer two-wheeled trips through the country, easily the most freespirited method of getting from A to B in Laos.

Meanwhile Savannakhet’s quiet old town, now being restored, plus efforts by the local branch of the Lao National Tourism Administration (LNTA) to sign-post many historic and natural sites close to the town, gives more reasons to spend a few extra days on your journey south.

The southern hub of Pakse puts you in easy reach of the pre-Angkor temple of Wat Phou Champassak, Laos’s second UNESCO heritage site; the cool coffee plantations and waterfalls of the Bolavens plateau;

ເວລາຂອງລາວ ນແມນເວລາຂອງປະເທດລາວ ທກຳaລັaງກາຍມາເ ປັaນຈຸດໝາຍປາຍທາງອັaນເປັນທນິຍົaມຂອງນັaກທອ ງທຽວ ທມາຢຽມຢາມອາຊີຕະເວັນອອກສຽງໃຕ. ການທອງທຽວລາວ ບເຄີຍສະດວກສະບາຍເທານມາກອນ ໃນຂະນະດຽວກັaນຕົaວເລືອກດານ ທົaວ ແລະ ບອນພັaກອາໄສ ກບເຄີຍມີາກາຍກວານ, ຕອບສະໜອງໃຫ ທັaງ ຜູທມີງົaບໜອຍ ແລະ ຜູທມັaກຄວາມາ. ໃນຂະ ນະທການພັaດທະນາດານການທອງທຽວຂອງລ າວ ຫັaນຈາກບັaນຫາດານການເຂາເຖິງ ມາສຸມໃສດານ ປະລິມານ ແລະ ຄຸນະພາບ, ແນນອນແລວ ນັaກທອງທຽວ ຈະເພມຈຳaນວນຂນຢາງີກລຽງບໄດ.

the water-world and island lifestyles of Siphandone and onwards to the Cambodian border.

Laos, and particularly Luang Prabang, has benefited from high coverage in the global travel press in recent years, helping to encourage tourist arrivals which are predicted to hit 2.6 million in 2011.

The LNTA hopes to raise the country’s global tourism profile still further in 2012 by launching a second ‘Visit Laos Year’ (the first was in 1999); a timely decision considering the juncture at which Lao tourism presently finds itself.

In 1999, the focus of tourism development in Laos was on access – countless destinations were way

off the map for all but the hardiest travellers, and transport and other infrastructure in many areas was still the stuff of government plans.

In 2012, a much wider area of the country is open to easier exploration thanks to highway projects over recent years linking many of the country’s provincial centres with paved roads, as well as more multi-country trip options through new or refitted border crossings with Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia.

arrival numbers will inevitably and justifiably keep building.

But Laos is still far from being overrun by tourism, and you can easily find your own level of escape if you desire to; the heart of this country only a sangtheaw (pick-up truck) ride away.

Travel in Laos has never been easier, while at the same time tour and accommodation options have never been more diverse, catering to both budget and high-end travellers. As Lao tourism development shifts from access to quantity and quality,

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ADVERTORIAL

The Luang Say Residence

THE ESSENCE OF GRANDEUR

L

ao is rapidly becoming a desirable tourist destination for those in the know, with Luang Prabang and its old worldly charms sporting a modern attitude, now the premier location for visitors to Lao from afar and wide. Nestled against the banks of the gargantuan Mekong River, Luang Prabang basks within a warm atmospheric glow with many temples, Indochinese inspired architecture and 19th Century colonial French buildings that give this UNESCO protected town a real diverse and melting-pot environment.

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Nowhere are its 19th Century roots more apparent than within the adjoining 1861 Bar, which epitomizes that colonial style with its roaring open fire and its welcoming armchairs. One can sit back and absorb the atmosphere and imagine French explorers exchanging tales of danger and excitement whilst partaking in an alcoholic beverage or two.

A

lthough the inevitable surge of mass tourism might affect Luang Prabang over the long run, it will no doubt retain its essence due to it being protected. Therefore, when you decide to create a new hotel in such a unique destination, it makes sense to merge the old with the new, which is exactly what has transpired with The Luang Say Residence. Blending 19th Century colonial French architecture with the luxurious trappings of the new world, this is a hotel that stands out in a crowd and makes itself noticed.

Striking a meticulous balance is not an easy task, however, The Luang Say Residence has proven you can take the best aspects of everything and combine them to create something that is uniquely new but also accentuates the glories of the French colonial period. Situated just a short stroll from Luang Prabang’s historic town centre, Luang Say Residence is a convenient hotel that conjures up a dreamlike atmosphere conducive to the perfect holiday stay.

La Belle Epoque is Luang Say Residence’s fine restaurant, where one can sample sumptuous dishes lovingly created with care and passion. The restaurant is also making a big name for itself in Luang Prabang, which is usually a good sign for up and coming restaurants. Overlooking the gardens and pools, the restaurant serves healthy food from all over the world, though the Laos chefs in the kitchen are able to offer local dishes.

The rooms are heavily inspired by Indochinese elements that give the overall flair of the hotel great diversity, which mirrors Luang Prabang as a whole. This conceptual way of creating such a hotel allows you to feel the mismatch of local Laos culture at first hand.

Just sit back and relax, absorbing the mountainous backdrop, and when you are ready to try something different, you can do it in style by traversing the Mekong River aboard the Vat Phou and Luangsai Cruises. The Luang Say Residence experience is one you will never forget, and what better way to enjoy such an interesting destination as Luang Prabang than within a hotel that mirrors the essence entire of the region.

With 24 exquisitely styled suites and rooms, set over 5 pavilions, the resort is charm personified. The building itself is reminiscent of a fortress for a French ambassador during the 19th century - a place you wouldn’t find out of place as a home for French royalty or other northern European nobility. The moment you set foot within the hotel, you are immediately greeted by an oval atrium keeping you supremely cool - a safe haven away from the humidity and pulsating sunrays of South-East-Asia.

The Luang Say Residence 4-5 Ban Phonepheng, P.O. Box 507 Luang Prabang Lao PDR. Tel: + 856 (0) 71 260 891 Fax: +856 (0) 71 260 892 www.luangsayresidence.com 21

SABAIDEE COVER

NEW FACE OF LUANG PRABANG JENNIFER BROWN

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LUANG PRABANG IS SET AMID KARST LIMESTONE MOUNTAINS CARPETED IN DENSE FOREST COVER, A PENINSULA OASIS OF GLITTERING GOLDEN TEMPLES TUCKED BETWEEN THE MEKONG AND NAM KHAN RIVERS. LONG VISITED, PRIMARILY BY BACKPACKERS AND A HANDFUL OF FRENCH TOURISTS LOOKING TO RETRACE COLONIAL ROOTS, THE SERENE VIBE OF THE TOWN HAS BECOME A DESTINATION THAT SEAMLESSLY MERGES THE NEW WITH ITS OLD WORLD CHARMS

LAOS LAO AIRLINES Luang Prabang (LPQ) Airport Office Tel : (856-71) 212173 Fax : (856-71) 252264 lpq@laoairlines.com

# new airport for Luang Prabang

J

ust this year, the Lao government announced the formation of the Lao Tourism Marketing Board, with ambitious plans to develop a long-term strategy to promote Laos as a tourist destination in five key markets abroad, namely English-speaking and European countries.

As part of the governmentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s strategic vision for tourism infrastructure development, a new, longer runway at the airport has already been built with a new terminal building planned but not yet constructed, so that the airport may accommodate larger jet planes and increased passenger

traffic. This is good news for the aspiring visitor and will hopefully result in more competitive pricing and greater availability.

Dominated by state-owned Vietnam Airlines and Lao Airlines, air accessibility to Luang Prabang is limited to only a trickle of international flights each day, almost all of which are handled by small propeller planes, although Bangkok Airways does operate twice daily flights from Bangkok to Luang Prabang. However, there are several Lao Airline domestic flights into Luang Prabang on a daily basis

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OCK POP TOK 73/5 Ban Vat Nong Luang Prabang, Lao PDR Telephone: +856 (071) 253 219 info@ockpoptok.com www.ockpoptok.com

# new lifestyle and activities: where fashion and ecotourism harmoniously meet

T

o learn about the painstaking work behind the endless stacks of scarves on offer, venture towards the Phousi market where you will find a small dirt lane leading to the Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Center. Translated as ‘East Meets West,’ Ock Pop Tok injects traditional Lao weavings with chic contemporary design. Drop in and allow the hum of the looms to envelop you as the nimble fingers work their magic, employing techniques passed from mother to daughter for generations.

A series of classes allows you to delve further into these traditional arts by handcrafting your own souvenir. Weaving classes start by mixing a natural dye and finish on the loom, where you will interlace the silk threads into a placemat-sized piece.

The batik class, taught by a warm and patient H’mong grandmother, will guide you through the creation of her culture’s intricate geometric patterns.

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ELEPHANT VILLAGE Ban Xieng Lom, Luang Phabang, Laos Tel / Fax : +856(0)71 252417, +856(0)30 5140614 info@elephantvillage-laos.com www.elephantvillage-laos.com For the active visitor, head out of town for a hike through the dense forests. At the Elephant Village, spend a day in the shoes of a ‘mahout’ or elephant caretaker. Once known as the ‘Land of a Million Elephants,’ the population is dwindling in the face of habitat destruction. This sanctuary offers a gentler income alternative to animals and caretakers formerly involved in logging.

Ride through the lush surrounding foliage, learn about their care from the resident veterinarian, and cap off the day with these majestic yet humble creatures by heading down to the river for their daily bath.

AT THE ELEPHANT VILLAGE, SPEND A DAY IN THE SHOES OF A ‘MAHOUT’ OR ELEPHANT CARETAKER

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NEW FACE OF LUANG PRABANG

THE LUANG SAY RESIDENCE 4-5 Ban Phonepheng, P.O. Box 507 Luang Prabang Lao PDR Tel: + 856 (0) 71 260 891 Fax: +856 (0) 71 260 892 info@luangsayresidence.com www.luangsayresidence.com

SUCCESSFULLY BLENDS COLONIAL CHARMS WITH CONTEMPORARY STYLE, CONSTRUCTED ON THE SITE OF A FORMER PRISON

# new luxury stay: chic luxury stays in Luang Prabang

After some years of stagnant hotel development and limited deluxe options, Luang Prabang’s accommodation scene has flourished recently. Merging the colonial past glories with a modern atmosphere and attitude, The Luang Say Residence is one of those special places that brings new and old together into one total experience. With 24 luxury suites set over six colonial style pavilions, this is resort for the intrepid explorer to Luang Prabang.

Hotel de la Paix Luang Prabang, successfully blends colonial charms with contemporary style, constructed on the site of a former prison. The rooms here are spacious, with high ceilings, sweeping curtains, and a sultry minimalist style. Mirroring Luang Prabang’s UNESCO protected image, the Amantaka is a picturesque resort set within a stunning French colonial building within close proximity to many boutiques, bakeries and restaurants lining the main street of the town. Also close to the banks of the Mekong, this is the perfect place to stay when visiting Luang Prabang.

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HOTEL DE LA PAIX LUANG PRABANG Manomai Street, Ban Mano, Luang Prabang, 0600 Lao P.D.R. Phone: +856 71 260 777 Fax: +856 71 260 776 book@hoteldelapaixlp.com www.hoteldelapaixlp.com

LA RĂ&#x2030;SIDENCE PHOU VAO 3 PO Box 50, Luang Prabang, Lao PDR Tel: (+856-71) 212194 or 212530 Fax: (+856-71) 212534 reservations@residencephouvao.com www.residencephouvao.com AMANTAKA 55/53 Kingkitsarath Road Ban Thongchaleun Luang Prabang Lao PDR Tel:(856) 71 860 333 Fax:(856) 71 860 335 amantaka@amanresorts.com www.amanresorts.com

La Residence Phou Vao is nestled upon a scenic hillside with stunning mountain views benefitting from a tranquil and calming ambience overlooking the dreamy Luang Prabang. With rooms that are inspired by local styles and materials, this is a luxury hotel you will never forget.

Xiengthong Palace is a luxury and unique boutique hotel set in a peaceful area of Luang Prabang, beside a Buddhist Monastery and facing the Mekong River. The 26 rooms and 15 suites combine luxury, intimacy and comfort to create one of the best hotels in the city.

XIENGTHONG PALACE Kounxoau Road, Ban Phonehueng, Luang Prabang, Lao PDR Te;: +856 71213200 Fax: +856 71213203 reservation.xtp@jetwingindochina.com www.xiengthongpalace.com

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TROPICAL GARDEN RESTAURANT Bane Vixoun, Setthatirath Road, Luang Prabang, Lao PDR Tel: 071 212 642, 071 252 933 Fax: 071 212 818 info@luangprabangoasis.com www.luangprabangoasis.com

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NEW FACE OF LUANG PRABANG

# new dining out – it’s all about Taste!

JOMA BAKERY CAFE Chao Fa Ngum Road, near the city post office +856 (0) 21 412 792 www.joma.biz Opening hours: 7am-9pm, daily

THE BIG TREE GALLERY CAFE PO Box 612, 46 Bat Van Nong +856 (0) 20 777 6748 www.bigtreecafe.com Opening hours: 9am-9pm, daily

T

he great thing about dining out in Luang Prabang is there is plenty of choice available. Situated on the banks of the Mekong, The Big Tree Gallery Café serves up an interesting selection of cuisine styles from local Lao dishes and European specialities, all the way to Korean food, which is quite unique for Luang Prabang. Being the only eatery in the city that serves Korean food, this accolade is well worth a visit alone.

Lao is well known for its bread-making qualities due to its French inspired past. Going to Luang Prabang without sampling the bread is like going to London and not visiting Buckingham Palace.

Located by the town’s post office, Joma Bakery Café is regarded as an institution in Luang Prabang. All coffee lovers tend to pop in for a coffee and cake when in the city. Also home to quality pizzas that have a Chicago influences rather than Italian, and New York bagels, this is a must-visit café when in Luang Prabang.

If you are seeking a spot of Thai cuisine when in Luang Prabang, Tropical Garden Restaurant serves up Thai dishes for foreign travelers and locals. Sample Thai favorites such as Pad Thai (Thai Style Fried Noodle), Squid fried with shrimp paste, Green Curry, Sour and Spicy Shrimp Soup, Pan Fried Spicy Seafood and many more. Don’t miss Thai Favorite Buffet every Sat and Sun from 19.00 to 21.00.

GOING TO LUANG PRABANG WITHOUT SAMPLING THE BREAD IS LIKE GOING TO LONDON AND NOT VISITING BUCKINGHAM PALACE 29

NEW FACE OF LUANG PRABANG

THIS PETITE VILLA HOUSES FOUR ROOMS, NAMED AFTER THE ETHNIC GROUP

SATRI HOUSE 057 Photisarath Rd, Ban Thatluang, Luangprabang Lao PDR Tel: +856 71 253 491-2 Fax: +856 71 253 418 info@satrihouse.com www.satrihouse.com

OCK POP TOK VILLA 2 Km south of Luang Prabang town in Ban Saylom Telephone: +856 (0)71 212 597 Lcc@ockpoptok.com www.ockpoptok.com

# new hip & chic repose

F

or aficionados of boutique properties brimming with character, look no further than the Ock Pop Tok Villa, nestled in a corner of the frangipani-fringed yard at the aforementioned Living Crafts Centre. Perched on the banks of the Mekong, this petite villa houses four rooms, named after the ethnic group whose traditional textiles adorn the walls, bed, and floors of each chamber. Star-shaped mulberry paper lanterns mark the entrance to this cosy abode, with ample space for lounging on the large outdoor sofa chairs.

THE APSARA LUANG PRABANG Tel: (856 71) 254 670 Fax: (856 71) 254252 info@theapsara.com www. theapsara.com

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Other notable hip & chic options include Satri House, which is one of the most exquisite places to stay within this ancient city. The Apsara Hotel is an ultra-hip and chic repose located in the heart of the city with views overlooking the banks of the Nam Khan River and the surrounding mountains. Luang Prabang has truly become an enchanting city evolving into a hip and happening place catering to all travellers.

YOUNG NOVICE MONKS STROLL ALONG THE STREETS, CLOAKED IN TANGERINE ROBES AND DELICATELY SHADED UNDERNEATH BLACK UMBRELLAS

# the old charms: keeping true to its colorful past

D

espite increasing infrastructure and tourism developments, Luang Prabang has thus far managed to retain its tranquil colonial charms which have seduced the most jaded city-slickers. Even the mighty Mekong seems gently subdued here, as small boats ferry monks and local residents back and forth across the river, fisherman glide downstream dragging their nets, villagers tend to leafy riverside vegetable gardens, and young children dip into the cool waters for a refreshing swim.

Young novice monks stroll along the streets, cloaked in tangerine robes and delicately shaded underneath black umbrellas, greeting visitors with a polite â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;sabaideeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; as they pass. At dusk, the quiet hum of evening prayers emanates from within the temples, wafting its way through the warm air as locals set up their stalls at the nightly handicraft market.

UNESCO has indeed worked tirelessly to ensure maintenance of strict architectural standards, helping to safeguard the historic culture of the town. However, most visitors would argue that the most prevailing factor in preserving the serene nature of this sleepy town is indeed the mild nature of the Lao hosts.

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 ໝ ໃ າ  ໜ ບ ໃ ພະບາງ ງ ວ  ງ ອ ຂ

ະຖ ການເປັນສ ກ າ ຈ າ ສ ກ ັa ປັaກຮ ກາຍມາ ຮັaບການປົaກ ດ ໄ  ທ ງ ອ ື ບາງ ກຳaລັaງ ະ ເມ ພ ງ ວ ັaກ  ດົaກໂລກ ງໃໝຂອງນ ະ ຫ ລ ໍ ແ ມ ງ ງ ຮ າ ແ ທ  າ ານທ າຊີ ທມ ໄລຍະ ໃນທະວີບອ ງ າ ທ ສານອາດີດ ຍ ະ າ ປ ປ ມ ົa ຍ ສ າ ະ ໝ ປ  ເປັນຈຸດ ານທ ທ ລະ ິດຈະກຳa ແ າ ເປັນສະຖ ກ ວ ວ ບ ັa ໄ ງ ກ າ   ນ ຢ ເມືອງຂ ທອງທຽວ ງ ການເປັນ າ  . ະ ລ ີຜົaນສຳaເລັດ ມ ງ າ  ຢ  ກອນ ແລະ ດ ໄ ໃໝໆ ສງດຶງດູດ

ສະໜາມບິນໃໝ່

ສະໜາມບິນວງພະບາງ ກຳaລັaງມວນຊນ ກັaບການປຽນແປງາຍຢາງ ເພອຮອງຮັa ບການaງໄເຂາມາໃນພາກພນຂອງນັaກ ທອງທຽວທເພມຂນ. ດວຍທາງແລນອັaນ ໃໝ ແລະ ຍາວກວາເກາ ທໄດໃຊຢູ ແລະ ການກສາງອາຄານບິນອັaນໃໝທກຳaລັaງດ ຳaເນີນຢູ, ຖຽວບິນຈາກ ຕາງປະເທດ ແລະ ພາຍໃນຂອງການບິນລາວ ຈະເປັນປະໂຫ ຍດຕກັaບຕົaວເມືອງຢາງແນນອນ.

ວິຖີຊີວິດ ແລະ ກິດຈະກຳa ໃໝ

ປະເທດລາວກຳaລັaງມີຊສຽງເພມຂ ນຍອນ ວິຖີຊີວິດ ແລະ ກິດຈະກຳa ທປະສົaມປະສານສງ ໃໝ ແລະ ເກາ ເຂາເປັນຫີບຫອັaນດຽວໄດຢາງໜ າຈັaບໃຈ. ລອງໄປຖຽວຕະາດພູສີ ບອນທທານຈະໄດພົaບ ສູນຫັaດຖະກຳaແບບມີຊີວິດຂອງ ອອກພົaບຕົaກ ທປະສົaມປະສານກາ ນຕຳa່ຜາແບບພນເມືອງລາວ ເຂາກັa ບການອອກແບບຕາມສະໄໝທເກ ໄກ, ື ລອງອອກໄປແຖວບານຊາງ ເພອລອງໃຊຊີວິດເປັນ ຄວານຊາງ ຈັaກມໜງ.

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ບອນພັaກທາອັaນໃໝ

ພາຍັaງຈາກາຍປີຂອງ ການພັaດທະນາໂຮງແຮມທຊົaບເຊົາ ແລະ ຂອ ບເຂດທຈຳaກັaດຂອງຕົaວເລືອກດານຄວາມ າ ພາບສະຖານທພັaກຂອງ ວງພະບາງ ໃນໄລຍະັaງນກຳaລັaງເກີດດອກອອກໝາກ. ມວນຊນໄປກັaບບອນພັaກທ າ ແລະ ເກໄກ ຢູສະຖານທຕາກອາກາດ ເຊນ ໂຮງແຮມ ເດິລາແປ, ອາມັaນຕະກະ, ລາເຣຊີດອງ ພູວາວ, ຊຽງທອງ ພາເລສ ແລະ ທາຍສຸດ ວງໄຊ ເຣຊີເດັນສ ກັaບຮູບແບບເມືອງຂນທ າ ແລະ ເປັນເອກ.

ຮານອາຫານໃໝ

ສງທຄັaກ ກຽວກັaບການກິນເຂານອກບານຢູ ວງພະບາງ ແມນຕົaວເລືອກທມີຢູຢາງວງາຍ . ມວນຊນໄປກັaບອາຫານ ເກົາີ ທ ບິກທຣີ ແກເລີຣີ ຄາເຟ ເຊງເປັນບອນທມີເອກະລັaກສະເພາະໃນ ແຂວງວງພະບາງ. ລມລອງຮານອາຫານຂອງຕົaວ ເມືອງາຍແຫງ ເຊນ ຮານ ໂຈມາ ເບກເກີຣີ ຄາເຟ ແລະ ລົaດຊາດແບບໄທ ທ ຮານ ໂທຣປິຄອລ ກາເດັນ.

ບອນພັaກຜອນທ ທັaນສະໄໝ ແລະ ເກໄກ ບອນໃໝ

ສວຍໂອກາດຈາກບອນພັaກຜອນທ ທັaນສະໄໝ ແລະ ເກໄກ ໃນພາກພນນ ກັaບ ວິນລາ ອອກພົaບຕົaກ ລຽບແຄມຂອງ, ບານ ສະຕາຣີ ແລະ ອີກາຍບອນ.

ສະເໜເກາແກ

ເຖິງແມນວາຈະມີ ສງປຸກສາງ ແລະ ການພັaດທະນາດານທອງທຽວ ເພມຂນ ແຂວງວງພະບາງ ຈົaນເຖິງປະຈຸບັaນ ຍັaງສາມາດຮັa ກສາສະເໜເມືອງຂນອັaນງຽບສະ ົaບໄວໄດ ເຊງເ ປັaນສງໜງທດຶງດູດຄົaນເມືອງທເມອຍລາ. ແມນແທ ອົaງການຢູເນສໂກ ໄດເຮັດວຽກດວຍຄວາມ ບາກບa ນເພອຮັaບປະກັaນການປົaກປັaກຮັaກສາມາດຕະຖານດ ານສະຖາປະນິກທເຂມງວດ ເພອຊວຍເຂາໃນ ການ ອະນຸລັaກວັaດທະນະທຳaອັaນເກາແກຂອງຕົaວເມືອງ.

D I N N E R S H OW Roots & Leaves Setthathilath Road, PO Box 586 Luang Prabang, Lao P.D.R. Tel. 856-71-254870 Fax 856-71-254880 info@rootsinlaos.com reservation@rootsinlaos.com www.rootsinlaos.com 33

LAO ROOMS

HOTEL DE LA PAIX A RETREAT FOR SPLENDID SOULS H

otel de la paix is a true blending of historic charm with contemporary style. Situated in the former royal capital of Laos, the hotel is built on UNESCO heritage site making it all the more fascinating and alluring to the visitors.

This culturally affluent destination comprises of luxury suites that flaunts French colonial architecture and style with a series of intimate spaces done with wooden furnishings making these suites perfect for indulgence and complete relaxation.

The ideal mountainous backdrop and secluded location ensures visitors a restful stay. The hotel spells its extravagance through its big courtyards, landscaped gardens, exuberant pools HOTEL DE LA PAIX and fireplaces that LUANG PRABANG can sway any Unit 4, Ban Mano, visitor.

Old Prison Road, Luang Prabang, 0600 Lao P.D.R. Phone: +856 71 260 777 Fax: +856 71 260 776 www.hoteldelapaixlp.com

3 NAGAS

SPIRITUAL

REJUVENATION AT

3 NAGAS I

deally located in the towns Old Quarter, 3 Nagas is a boutique hotel that surrounds three restored heritage buildings. The hotel is an appropriate place to observe the serene and divine alms giving procession of monks in the early morning.

The elegance of 3 Nagas has been marked by its exotic architecture with dark wooden floors, high end ceilings and silk fabrics. One can taste authentic Laotian cuisine, discover a range of handicrafts and silk fabrics made by local hill tribes, and can buy varieties of tea, infusions and spices. For inquisitive travelers who love to explore the world of literature, the hotel has a personal library with some best books of every genre.

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LUANG PRABANG Ban Vatnong, Sakkaline Road P.O. Box 722, Luang Prabang, Lao P.D.R. Phone: +856 71 253 888 Fax: +856 71 253 999 www.3-nagas.com

THE LUANG SAY RESIDENCE S ituated in the heart of Luang Prabang with a stunning mountainous backdrop, The Luang Say Residence is a fantastic resort set within a picturesque French Colonial building. Enjoying 24 beautifully appointed luxury suites set across 6 pavilions, the hotel reflects Luang Prabang’s colonial past with a modern contemporary style. As nineteenth century explorers played a big part in Luang Prabang’s development, the hotel mirrors an essential essence of the city’s colorful history. Alongside the luxury suites, there are facilities such as a communal swimming pool and the classy La Belle Epoque restaurant, which serves stunning cuisine that will keep your taste buds in heaven. The 1861 Bar, sometimes with a roaring open fire, will conjure images of its colonial history. If you are looking for that perfect stay in the city that gives you a sneak preview of the city’s past while also offering luxury and pampering, The Luang Say Residence is the perfect choice.

THE LUANG SAY RESIDENCE 4-5 Ban Phonepheng, P.O. Box 507 Luang Prabang Lao PDR Tel: + 856 (0) 71 260 891 Fax: +856 (0) 71 260 892

E-mail: info@luangsayresidence.com

www.mekong-cruises.com

XIENGTHONG PALACE

Kounxoau Road, Ban Phonehueng, Luang Prabang, Lao PDR Tel: +856 71213200 Fax: +856 71213203 www.xiengthongpalace.com

XIENGTHONG PALACE K

nown as the last residence of Lao Royalty, Xiengthong Palace is a unique hotel situated in a tranquil part of Luang Prabang. Benefitting from a stunning location next to the Royal temple Wat Xiengthong while also facing the Mekong River, this luxury hotel features 26 stylish rooms including 15 suites that bring together comfort, intimacy, hospitality and exclusivity into one package. With awe-inspiring architecture and close proximity to Luang Prabang’s shopping district, markets and the International Airport, this is a distinctive hotel with major attention to detail and a personalized that will make your stay the most memorable.

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T R AV E L F E AT U R E

JOHN YATES

MUANG NGOI NEUA OFF THE BEATEN TRACK IN LAOS

TAKE THE ADVENTURE OF A LIFETIME ON A JOURNEY TO MUANG NGOI NUEA, EXPLORING REAL LAOS WHERE REAL PEOPLE AND STUNNING SCENERY MEETS NATURE AND LAOS’ CULTURE IN ITS PUREST FORM.

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“

THE SKY HIT EVERY HUE OF BLUE, PINK AND PURPLE BEFORE SETTLING ON BLACK

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One could easily mistake Muang Ngoi for a ghost town or a Hollywood movie set. A single stretch of road lined on both sides by simple wooden buildings, the village epitomizes timeless serenity. The sounds of birds, chickens, locusts and wind compete for dominance of the air, and the villagers go on about their daily lives without even acknowledging the presence of outsiders.

I

f Ernest Hemingway had chosen Laos as his home instead of Cuba, perhaps he would have stayed a while in Muang Ngoi Neua. In this tiny village on the Nam Ou River, deep in the jade mountains of Luang Prabang province, visitors can enjoy a rustic jungle retreat and catch a glimpse of Lao village life.

My journey to Muang Ngoi was an adventure in itself. A songtaew ride from Luang Prabang took me through scenic hill country to the sleepy port of Nong Khiaw, where several other travelers and I caught a longboat to the village. As we boarded the boat, an Irishman in our group said: “I have a feeling I’m going to find Jesus on this trip.” I don’t know if he ever did, but the breathtaking scenery along the river told me that we were heading somewhere otherworldly. Blue skies yawned down on giant, forestcovered mountains and water buffalo bathed in the shallows of the river.

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After settling into a $6 Dollar a night bungalow, I joined my fellow travelers on the deck of one of the village’s cafes for Beer Lao and delicious duck spring rolls and got to work on the question that had been on everyone’s mind: “What do we do now?” Our travel books told us that there were hiking trails in the area, but we hadn’t a clue where to find them. An obvious first answer came as the discussion died down and people started to take notice of the beautiful sunset. From where I sat, the view of the surrounding mountains and the Nam Ou, which disappeared among them like a silvery thread, resembled a live Chinese scroll painting. As the sun inched toward the horizon, the sky hit every hue of blue, pink and purple before settling on black. In awe, we all looked at each other as if our question had been a silly one not worth asking. The second answer came a short while later, when a Brazilian group member showed up at our table with a wide grin and a hand-drawn map: a guide to the local hiking trails.

After a baguette breakfast at Sengdala bakery the next morning, we set out along a nondescript path that leads out of Muang Ngoi and passes through an expanse of rice fields dotted with limestone cliffs and a few small villages. During spring, the fields are dry and easily traversable. Cattle and chick ens roam freely about, village children play pétanque, and, if you’re lucky, you may spot fresh jackfruit growing on trees. Farther down the trail, the human factor disappears, and you’re left with the silent company of nature. The forest becomes more dense, the mist thicker, and the mountains higher, which seems to go on like that forever.

The surreal emptiness of the landscape, along with the feeling that I was in a time vacuum miles and miles away from the nearest hint of a city was exactly what I had been looking for.

After a certain point, the path my group and I had taken grew narrower and narrower until it disappeared into a thick wall of foliage. A few guys and I decided to scout it out, and, after walking into the brush, slid down a muddy slope into a shallow, clear creek fed by a trickle of a waterfall. The canopy overhead was so thick that we couldn’t see the sky. The trail appeared to go on, but in a much less reliable form.

With that, we decided to climb up the thick ropes of vines that hung from the trees and lead the group homeward. After a quick stop at a small cave just outside the village, of which we were only able to catch a glimpse for lack of light, we were back in town in time for dinner.

To this day, I often wonder what lies beyond the creek where we ended our hike, and where the alternate paths we chose not to take end up.

Perhaps mystery makes memories all the more real, and serves as a powerful incentive to return one day and pick up where you left off. One thing’s for sure, though: if you visit Muang Ngoi, you would be wise to take a head torch with you. Not only does the village’s electricity shut off at night, but you never know when you’ll stumble upon a cave you might want to explore.

ເມືອງງອຍເໜືອ

ໄປຕາມເສັ້ນທາງທີ່ບໍ່ຄ່ອຍມີຄົນເດີນໃນລາວ ສຳຫຼວດພາບພື້ນທີ່ຂອງ ລາວ ແລະ ເມືອງງອຍເໜືອ ເຊິ່ງເປັນຈຸດໝາຍປາຍທາງ ອັນສວຍງາມທີ່ບໍ່ຄ່ອຍມີ ຄົນທຽວ. ພວກເຮົາເດີນທາງຜ່ານບ້ານນ້ອຍໆແຫ່ງໜຶ່ງ ແຄມນຳ້ອູ, ເຂົ້າເລິກໄປສາຍພູສີຂຽວຂອງແຂວງ ຫຼວງພະບາງ ບ່ອນທີ່ຜູ້ຢ້ຽມຢາມສາ ມາດເພີດເພີນກັບ ຄວາມສັນໂດດໃນປ່າ ແລະ ມຸມໜຶ່ງຂອງຊີວິດ ບ້ານນອກ. ນີ້ແມ່ນ ປະສົບການທ່ອງທ່ຽວທີ່ເປັນເອກະລັກທີ່ຜູ້ຢ້ຽມຢາມລາວບໍ່ຄ່ອຍໄດ້ເຫັນ. ຮຽນກ່ຽວກັບ ບ້ານນອກທີ່ສວຍງາມຂອງລາວ ແລະ ຄົນລາວທີ່ມີສ່ວນໃນການເດີນ ທາງຄັ້ງໜຶ່ງໃນຊີວິດນີ້.

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R E A L E S TAT E

ABSORB

NATURE AT THE JUNGLE HOUSE

WITH LAOS CURRENTLY ENJOYING A FLEDGLING PERIOD IN ITS RAPIDLY GROWING POSITION AS A TOURIST DESTINATION IN SOUTH-EAST-ASIA, IT IS ONLY RIGHT TO ASSUME THAT A PROPERTY BOOM IS AROUND THE CORNER. MORE EXPOSURE USUALLY RESULTS IN MORE INTEREST, AND MORE IMPORTANTLY – FOREIGN INVESTMENT! 40

L

uang Prabang Real Estate Consulting is a real estate agent in Lao that offers some great and unique choices for the Laos real estate market and potential homebuyers. One of the most unique properties on their website is a stunning Jungle House situated just a 25-minute drive from Luang Prabang.

This is a luxury jungle mansion with stunning views seamlessly blending into a natural abundant location with views of the mountains and overlooking a wondrous river. Situated within a magnificent jungle-laden private estate on the outskirts of Luang Prabang, this is the ideal villa for nature lovers or those wishing to be at one with nature and themselves.

This two bedroom villa has some of the most scenic views imaginable gazing out above the jungle canopy as the world rolls out beneath. The villa is connected to the river over land and there is another house/building which can be sold in connection with the villa. The villa itself is a gem and if you wish to integrate some business plans into your new investment, you could add a small guesthouse by the river.

This beautiful luxury mansion with stunning river and scenic mountain views is the perfect weekend or holiday retreat to escape the hustle and bustle of other Asian cities, offering an environment of pure luxury and beauty.

It is built on the base of a 100 year old Lao style house and extended with open-air bathroom, bath tub, rain shower, various sitting and working areas, fully equipped kitchen and living room, television and ready to move in facilities. The house can be transformed into a business orientated property, perfect for â&#x20AC;&#x153;honeymoonersâ&#x20AC;? and businessmen in search of indulgent luxury. Aside from the house, there is also a separate plot of land and a lodge, all of which can be purchased with the house.

THE LAND

The land is on a lease/rent through the government of Laos with all paper documentations for another 30 years from 2009. Rental fee for the land to the government is paid and included in the house price.

THE LODGE

This piece of property is known as the Elephant Lodge, and may be included in the sales for the future owner.

It offers on-river access and 5 nicely furnished rooms to run a small business. The land is big enough to add another building to add a further 6-8 rooms, also on river front. All supplies for everyday life come from Luang Prabang on a newly repaired road. Access to the Nam Khan River is just a 3 minute walk away! There are forests, jungle trails, and waterfalls within the surrounding 5 km and in walking or boat distance.

The pool is currently under construction.

This jungle villa is perfect for individuals in search of a new home base close to one of the most fascinating locations in South East Asia, in Luang Prabang. It could also be interesting investment for those who wish to add an Eco-lodge to their portfolio with one eye on the future tourism influx into Laos.

For more information regarding the Jungle House or any other property desires in Lao you might have, you can contact Luang Prabang Real Estate Consulting and visit their website at: www.real-estate-luang-prabang.com

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ESCAPE

PHOU KHAO

KHOUAY

ON A NATURE TREK WITH GRACIOUS COMPANIONS ADVENTURERS AND EXPLORERS WILL BE IN THEIR ELEMENT ENT NT T WHEN DISCOVERING THE NATURAL AND WILDLIFE ABUNDANCE OF PHOU KHAO KHOUAY, A NATIONAL PROTECTED D AREA. THE JOURNEY WILL TAKE YOU THROUGH UNTOUCHED HED RAIN FORESTS AND DESERTED TREKS IN THE PURSUIT OF F THAT UNIQUE LAOS TRAVEL EXPERIENCE GAID P. KORNSILAPA

A

s soon as I learned that I would have another chance to visit Laos, I was overjoyed. That’s because every time I cross the Mekong River to this neighboring country, I feel just like I’m going to visit my own generous relatives and close friends.

This time, I had a chance to explore nature and the local people’s way of living around Phou Khao Khouay National Protected Area, which has abundant forests and wildlife that remains almost untouched. It was a rather adventurous trip for amateur trekkers.

We used the Thai–Laos Friendship Bridge to cross the Mekong River from Nong Khai to Vientiane, the capital city of Laos and continued the trip to Phou Khao Khouay. Not far from the city of Vientiane, we reached the town of Tha Phrabat, where we had a brief stop at Wat Tha Phrabat, one of the most significant Buddhist sanctuaries of the town. This temple has a replica of the Lord Buddha’s footprint enshrined in the main Ubosot with some water always spilling over the footprint. It is believed to be holy water. In previous days, there were many vendors who cheated people by selling bottles of water claiming it was from the Buddha footprint.

42

To solve the problem, the temple staff made a fence to prevent anybody from reaching the water. Behind the main Ubosot there is a big beautiful Buddha image in a reclining posture where most people usually visit and pay homage or ask for good luck.

The next temple we visited was Wat Phon San, located adjacent to the Mekong River on the mound of the riverbank. We climbed up the

stairways to the main Ubosot of the temple to pay homage to the Buddha image. This temple features some odd sculptures of animals. Normally, most temples have a sculpted pair of serpent (Naga) statues with their heads located on the foot of the stairs and their long bodies reaching upwards wa ards to the end of the staircase on the e left and right to serve as handrails.

But both staircases at Wat Phon San Bu ut bo have elephant heads instead of serhav ve e pents. pe nts. Another spectacular thing to see e in this temple is the mural paintings portraying the Jataka, the stories ing gs po of the former incarnations of the Lord Buddha.

Bu uddh Each frame of picture is captioned tio ned in Laotian, but it was not that diffi cult for us to read because the dif ficul alphabet alp phab and words are quite similar Thai. to Tha left the temple and continued We e le ourr trip to a small village named Ban ou Na, located at the foot of Phou Khao Na a, loc Khouay, Kh houa where we stopped for a locall sty style lunch. Our first meal in Laos ca consisted of fried fish, chili paste, and co nsis boiled bo oiled bamboo shoots, most of which came ca me from the neighborhood forest near the village. It was an impressive ne ar th meal we had together with some local me eal w villagers.

To welcome us as special vill age guests, gu ests our hosts poured some local liquor liqu uor into one tiny glass and then alternately ter rnate offered it to everybody to. In

addition to the hot weather, the alcohol turned our faces red, but we were filled with joy at the warm welcome sincerely presented by the Laotians.

After the wonderful lunch, and feeling a bit drunk, we had a chance to explore through the village of Ban Na. The small community has about 100 houses with 600 residents. Most of the villagers make their living from farming, while some of them also make baskets to use for sticky rice containers, which are exported to the Thai market. So, walking around the village, we saw a picture of people of every age, including the very young ones, keeping busy with their unique and skillful work. Apart from gaining income from basketry, the village has organized home stay activities for adventurous tourists who want to get close to the local living style.

On top of that, this village is the service center for those who want to trek or stay overnight for wildlife observation. Tourists are briefed with a wildlife watching plan and safety guidelines. To make sure that tourists don’t unintentionally spoil the natural environment, the tourist service center will provide a volunteer guide from the village to accompany them.

Ban Na village is located right on the border between the jungle and civilization. About 20 kilometers into the nature preserve there is an Elephant Observation Tower. It was built for tourists to observe the wild elephants that come out from the forests to visit the salt lick. We spent almost all afternoon on the tower looking for signs of the biggest wild creature. However, the villager told us that normally the elephants only come out from about 9:00 pm to midnight. Those who want to witness the elephants need to stay over night at the tower. Therefore, some of our group members were determined to stay while the others went back down to the village and stayed in the home stay houses.

The kids in the village told us that from time to time the elephants invaded the villagers’ land and came down to eat their crops, so now the villagers have given up planting any crops that are tempting food for elephants. Anyway, we didn’t pay much attention to the elephants but what we were interested in was the people’s way of life. We spent time with children who were willing to be our tour guides, showing us around

43

their village and the fields. This gave us the opportunity to inhale the fresh air.

That evening, we took a bath outdoors, had dinner and fun with the local people, and slept well under mosquito nets.

That was a worthwhile experience to escape from the chaotic city.

The next morning, those who slept in the tower came back looking tired. They said they couldn’t sleep because it was so hot and there were lots of mosquitoes and of course no sign of the elephants.

There was one person in the group who said that the elephants were coming up close at one moment, but then they ran away when some one in the tower made noise. The guide told us that when in the forest, tourists shouldn’t cook, wear perfume, make noise or do anything else that could alert the elephants to their presence.

Then, later in the morning our group was taken to the most beautiful waterfalls in Phou Khao Khouay. Tad Leuk Waterfall was our first destination. Tad Leuk is a waterfall formed by water from the river cascading down from a short cliff. The compound features a large flat stone space for people to picnic and absorb the coolness from the waterfall.

There is also an information center there to educate the visitors about the forest and its properties. The viewpoint can be observed from a small restaurant looking down to the beauty of the waterfall.

Some of the group couldn’t stand the heat and climbed down to take a dip in the natural whirlpool down at the foot of the waterfall.

From Tad Luek, we moved further to Tad Xay Pha Xay. The earthen roadway to reach this place is very rough so it takes an experienced and skillful driver to get there. After about 10 kilometers we reached a small village called Ban Hatkhai to collect our lunch before moving a bit further. We finally arrived at the base of the trail to the waterfall.

Next we had to walk through the jungle for another 300 meters before the huge and steep cliff with white flowing water was right before us. The time of year we went there was not quite the best time because it was the end of summer, before the beginning of the rainy season.

So the waterfall didn’t have much water.

From Tad Xay Pha Xay, we walked back and headed to the other side to see Houay Xay Waterfall. The water in this waterfall is from the northern side of the fertile Phou Khao Khouay Mountain and flows further down to the Mang River the main river flowing through this protected area. The white water flowing from the high steps from the top is just an example of the beauty that this natural area possesses. If we had gone there in the high water season, this waterfall would have created an even more fantastic picture as one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Laos. Another charm of the location is a large area of flat stones with a tiny stream down along the river way from the waterfall. The guide told us that during the high water season you can’t walk there, as the water level is up to 2 meters deep.

The beautiful and unspoiled natural environment of Laos is something that amazes all visitors and you will not be disappointed. But something that is equal to the natural beauty, which can lift up your impression of the visit, is the beautiful mind and mentality of the people. The lunch arranged by the locals and their toast of local liquor to create a tie of friendship made our trip to Phou Khao Khouay National Protected Area even more gorgeous. …… Sabai Dee Phou Khao Khouay!

ພູເຂົາຄວາຍ

ໃນການເດີນປາຮວມກັaບຄູເດີນທາງທມີນຳa້ໃຈ ນແມນເລອງລາວຂອງການເດີນທາງທເປັນເອກະລັaກ ຜານປາດົaງດິບທບເຄີຍຖືກສຳaຜັaດ ແລະ ຄວາມ ອຸດົaມສົaມບູນທາງທຳaມະຊາດ ໄປເຖິງ ປາສະ ວນແຫງຊາດ ພູເຂົາຄວາຍ ປະມານ 40 ັaກ ໄປທາງ ຕາເວັນອອກສຽງເໜືອຂອງວຽງຈັaນ. ເພີດເພີນກັaບ ສາຍພູຫີນປູນທໜາປະທັaບໃຈ ປາສະ ວນ ປາດົaງດິບ ສັaດປາ ແລະ ຄວາມງາມຂອງລາວໃນສະພາບທບໍລິສຸດທສຸດ ທເຮົາໄດພົaບໃນການພະຈົaນໄພຂອງ ພວກເຮົາ. ນແມນ ປະສົaບການການເດີນທາງສຳaລັaບນັaກສຳa ວດທມັaກພາບຂອງເນອທທບເຄີຍຖືກສຳaຜັaດ ເລີຍຕaງແຕສະໄໝບູຮານ.

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‘WE ARE IN THE BUSINESS OF PEOPLE’ HOSPITALITY

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TRAVEL MAGA

INTERVIEW WITH INTHY DEAN SAVANH

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AND

DINING OUT GUIDE IN LAOS & ETC.

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WWW TROPICAL HOSPITALITY MANAGEMENT BANGKOK OFFICE: 80/23 Ladprao Soi 23, Chankasem, Jatujak, Bangkok 10900 Tel: +66 2513 4913, +66 2513 4996 | Fax: +66 2513 4674

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SABAIDEE GUEST

INTHY

DEANSAVANH JEPPE BAUER CARLSEN

INTHY PROVES YOU CAN BUILD A BUSINESS EMPIRE THE RIGHT WAY! SUCCESSFULLY MERGING A BUSINESS EMPIRE WITH FAMILY, ECO TOURISM AND SOUND MORALS AND VALUES, ALONGSIDE A POSITIVE ATTITUDE, THE STORY OF THE ENTREPRENEURIAL INTHY DEANSAVANH IS INSPIRING TO ALL. SABAIDEE MAGAZINE WERE FORTUNATE ENOUGH TO CATCH UP WITH INTHY TO DISCUSS HIS PAST, PRESENT AND FUTURE

ການສຳaພາດກັaບ ອິນທີ ແດນສະ

ັaນ

ພວກເຮົາໂຊກດີທໄດສຳaພາດ ອິນທີ ແດນສະ ັaນ ເຊງເປັນໜງໃນຜູນຳaດານການ ປະກອບການ ແລະ ສາງອານາຈັaກທຸລະກິດ ໃນໄລຍະທົaດສະວັaດທຜານມາ ເຊງລວມມີ ສະຖານບັaນເທີງ, ການທອງທຽວແບບ ອານຸລັaກທຳaມະຊາດ, ໂຮງແຮມບູຕິກ ແລະ ຮານອາຫານຊaນສູງ. ອິນທີ ບພຽງແຕເປັນນັaກທຸລະກິດທ ຊານສະາດ ແຕຍັaງເປັນມະນຸດທຈິງໃຈ ທໂອລົaມກຽວກັaບ ທາງທຖືກຕອງໃນການປະຕິບັaດຕພະນັaກງ ານ, ການຮັaກສາການທອງທຽວໃຫໄປຕາມແລວທາງດຽວກັaບຄຸນຄາຂອງລະບົaບນິເວດ ແລະ ກຽວກັaບວາ ການທອງທຽວລາວຄວນຕອງກາວໄປໃຫຖືກທາງແນວໃດ 46

T

en years ago, the beautiful colonial building that is now Khop Chai Deau Restaurant, was the home of Inthy Deansavanh, his wife, his sister, two brothers and both his parents. At the time, the area in front of the house was a small Sindard (the Lao interpretation of Korean Barbeque) restaurant. Now, 10 years later, the makeshift restaurant has grown into a 3-story entertainment complex with food, live music, a venue for sporting events and a general social buzz unrivaled anywhere else in Vientiane.

Aside from steering Khop Chai Deu steadfastly towards this huge success, Inthy has developed the family business to include three boutique hotels, a small resort, a forest treetop lodge, a nationwide eco-tour operator, a steak house and a sushi restaurant. Yet this amazing expansion of business is not what impresses me the most this afternoon as I meet him for coffee in Khop Chai Deu (KCD).

You would think that a man who has managed to expand his business so aggressively in such a short period of time would be a hardcore and calculating business tycoon. Yet the care for his employees, family and the environment alike are the traits that truly define this man. I have watched Inthy build up his business over the years, always considering him great proof that business can be conducted in a fair, considerate and respectful manner and that contrary to the myth of the cold, calculating Asian businessman, it is very possible to make it without cheating, manipulating and being greedy!

A

s if that wasn’t enough, Inthy is not only a business man, he is also an artist who has designed and overseen all the expansions and restoration efforts that created the amazing atmosphere that is the foundation of the success of KCD today. He is a musician and singer who is not shy to take the stage for a charity concert and do a very respectable cover of anything from Frank Sinatra to Scorpions. He is an adventurer and explorer, who is always first in line whenever the eco tours need to expand to new areas or update existing itineraries, and thus get involved in anything from cave exploration, white water kayaking to rock climbing and deep jungle trekking.

I asked Inthy, “What is your secret formula for this amazing success”?

Inthy: “I feel very lucky because today I only need to do what I like to do. Before, when we started, I had to be involved in everything. Now I have a great team who supports me and really the success is because of the team.

In trend with the latest Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) management styles, he adds, “We must all benefit from the business. The team must get paid well according to the business and we must all be happy together”!

When you know Inthy, as I do, you will understand this is not a smart management structures or theory – this is the way he has built and dealt with his business on a daily basis. When an employee was robbed and killed last year, Inthy immediately founded a charity event where money was collection to help out the grief-stricken family who were dependent on their son’s income for survival.

W

hen asked about his opinion regarding sustainable development for tourism in Laos he gladly shares his thoughts, “We must really be careful about this idea of just looking at the number of arrivals. It is really important that we attract the right kind of people here. Of course we want to attract more people to Laos, but we also need to consider our capacity and our ability to maintain our lifestyle and culture – the things that make Lao unique!

“I heard about the King of Bhutan and it seems he has some really great ideas. I agree with his philosophy to have a quota on how many people can come and maybe even make it more expensive and thus only attract a particular crowd to visit places like Luang Prabang. This is a small town and if it becomes too crowded it will lose its charm.

Luang Prabang is not like for instance Angkor Wat. People don’t just go there to visit temples, but rather to see the daily lives of the people living there. This is the real charm, and we must find ways to preserve it”.

I

nthy has done a lot himself for preserving both Lao culture and even more so the Lao wildlife and nature. In 2009, he backed and cooperated with IUCN to create a campaign against wildlife trafficking that can still be seen today in the airports and other places.

As for looking ahead, Inthy feels sure he will stick to developing his own businesses within the tourism and service sector, while also continuing to fight for both protecting the local environment and also looking forward to a Laos that will be more well organized and creating a strategic and planned approach to developing the tourism sector.

“We have the rules and laws we need in place already,” said Inthy. “Now we just need to get better at enforcing them”!

“I think it is very important to know your own capabilities.

What you are capable of doing yourself and what your team can do and also you need to know the market, to know and understand the trends. This way you will know if you can deliver what people want and this is the key to success I believe.”

“

IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO KNOW YOUR OWN CAPABILITIES

47

F E AT U R E

CUPPA LAO Taste the essence JOHN YATES

WHILE THE WORLD HAS GONE INSTANT COFFEE MAD, NOTHING TASTES BETTER THAN REAL COFFEE STRAIGHT FROM LOCALLY GROWN BEANS. CUPPA LAO IS SOME OF THE TASTIEST AND AROMATIC COFFEE IN ASIA. TASTE THE FLAVOR, TRIP THE LIGHT FANTASTIC!

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Y

ou’ve had cups of Java and Joe. Now, have a cup of Lao! Just when living in China and Los Angeles had led me to believe that I had already tried the best in tea and coffee, an impulse purchase on my last day in Vientiane convinced me otherwise.

As I searched the shelves of a mini-mart for snacks to take with me on my all - night sleeper bus journey down to Pakse, a row of specialty teas and coffees caught my attention. They weren’t exactly what I needed for my trip down south, but I had been meaning to buy souvenirs from Laos to take back home, so I selected one bag each of Sinouk’s Paxxong green tea, Phongsaly high mountain smoked green tea and organic Arabica coffee and a bag of Naga Blend coffee by Lao Mountain Coffee before going on my way. It wasn’t until after I returned home to Los Angeles that I sampled these fine products and immediately wished that I had bought more - as in, an entire suitcase’s worth.

With all its pristine mountain highlands, it only makes sense that Laos would produce quality tea. Sinouk’s Phongsaly smoked green tea has unique taste that straddles the green and Oolong categories, and, as the name suggests, a robust smoky flavor. To me, the smokiness seemed vaguely reminiscent of a peat-heavy Scotch – sans alcohol. The leaves themselves are long and twisted, and stay intact remarkably well, even when stuffed into a suitcase for thirteen hours. The Paxxong green reminded me of organic greens I had tried in China, but has an earthy flavor and an added hint of something suggestive of Korean barley tea. There were components in the flavors of both teas that I had trouble explaining. Maybe it’s something in the rich Laotian mountain soil, maybe it’s the lack of chemicals and pesticides, or maybe the Sinouk Company is onto the next best thing in tea.

*

Maybe it’s something in the rich Laotian mountain soil, maybe it’s the lack of chemicals and pesticides, or maybe the Sinouk Company is onto the next best thing in tea.

Though Laos’ coffee industry has European roots, the essence of its product is all local. Sinouk’s Arabica and Lao Mountain’s Naga blend impressed me every bit as much as anything I had tasted in coffee shops in California. Both were rich and flavorful and, as with the teas, contained subtle hints which I enjoyed but could not identify. Exquisite though they are, these two items are only the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the product lines of these two companies.

Lao Mountain offers a long list of different coffees, as well as some teas. Sinouk, in addition to offering a vast array of different teas and coffees of various roasts and blends, has retail outlets throughout Laos, as well as Suan Sinouk – a resort cum plantation on the Bolavens plateau in the south, not far from Pakse.

What the pallet savors can not always be translated well into words: just have a cup and experience it for yourself. Whether you favor the leaf or the bean, Laos offers both in abundant measure and premium quality.

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LAOS CUISINE

LAO STREET FOOD

TANTALIZE YOUR TASTE BUDS IN LAO

MALISSA RICHTER

50

GAID P. KORNSILAPA & GINGER MASSEY

OR ITS OUS F M A F AND LAO IS REET FOOD EST EB TASTY S THAT HAV IAN T R O O VEND PART OF LA ME OF A O COME FIND OUT S TO RE. O TRY CULTU T DISHES T ICACIES ES EL THE B CAL D O L E H T ND TASTE T FIRST HA A

HERE YOU WILL FIND A KALEIDOSCOPE OF BRILLIANT T CUE UED D FOOD OPTIONS SUCH AS SMOKY AND MOIST BARBECUED CHICKEN ON A STICK, MARINATED GRILLED PORK, SWEET WEET STICKY RICE STEAMED IN BAMBOO, SPICY PAPAYA SALADS LADS LA S RY’S AND A PLETHORA OF AROMATIC CURRIES AND STIR-FRY’S

T

he quickest way to peel back the layers and discover the soul of any city is to dive headfirst into its cuisine.

“What we eat” is intimately linked with our history, environment, passions and traditions; and is ultimately a visceral reflection of our cultural identity.

Vientiane is no exception, and it is the street food found throughout the city that tells the most compelling story. Nestled along the mighty Mekong River and sharing a border with Thailand, Vientiane is a city of contrast with an easy going small town feel and an eclectic and vibrant food scene.

Food lovers are encouraged to venture down most any street near the numerous guest houses and cafes to find one of the many local vendors selling the popular Laos sandwich known as khao jji paa-te. This sandwich is a masterpiece; which begins with a wonderfully chewy and crusty fresh baked baguette that is quickly warmed up and toasted on a charcoal grill. It is then expertly sliced and stuffed with a choice of bologna style cold cuts, home-style pate, green herbs, pickled and fresh vegetables, and a dazzling choice of exotic sauces. It’s the perfect amalgamation of both European and Asian ingredients that boggles the imagination and stimulates the palate.

Each vendor has their unique perspective of this sandwich and there are several versions to try including one that is served with an over-easy fried duck egg and a tangy dark soy sauce that is simply magical.

The adventure truly begins as you wander the dusty streets of Vientiane and explore the many food stalls that emerge along balmy river banks in the evening. Here you will find a kaleidoscope of brilliant food options such as smoky and moist bar-

becued chicken on a stick, marinated grilled pork, sweet sticky rice steamed in bamboo, spicy papaya salads and a plethora of aromatic curries and stir-fry’s. There are vibrant fresh fruits to be tried such as pomello, dragonfuit, durian and papaya as well as provocative bottles of exotic rice wine that feature a macabre host of alcohol pickled creatures including snakes, lizards, scorpions and even some unexpected small mammals.

As the day gives way to night under a fading orange, red and purple sky; the only thing that can match the splendor of a sunset along the river is the intoxicating aromas that beckon you from the make shift cafes that seem to miraculously appear out of nowhere. Fresh seafood is an integral part of the diet in Vientiane and locals consider it a birthright. Hawkers proudly showcase grilled salt-encrusted and lemongrass stuffed tilapia alongside bowls of slowly melting ice that boast giant prawns and fresh squid that you can have cooked to order. They will grill it, steam it, or stir fry it in giant woks with chilies and fresh herbs of your choosing.

Locally sourced fish and frogs also swim in aerated bins of water until they are unceremoniously selected to be the main course on someone’s dinner plate for the night.

All of the anxieties and stress of the day melt away as you take your first sip of icy cold Beer Lao and find your way to an unassuming table among the throng. The pungent aroma of fiery spices fills the air as the sun sets and you anticipate the meal to come. There is something infectious that filters down and evokes a sense of tranquility and wonder as the riverfront comes alive in a heady mix that makes you feel all at once someplace exotic yet still at home.

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DINE OUT

LISTING LI STIING S G

Vientiane

MEX ALEXIA

AMPHONE

Cuisine: Lao Location: 34/1 Setthathirath Rd Contact: 021/212-489

CAFÉ DES ARTS

Cuisine: Tex-Mex Location: Fa Ngum Contact: 021/241-34

KHOP CHAI DEU RESTAURANT & BAR Cuisine: Western Location: 54 Setthathirat Rd, Nam Phou Contact: 021/251-564 www.khopchaideu.com

MITTAPHAP RESTAURANT Cuisine: Lao Location: Fa Ngum Contact: 021/264-444

Cuisine: French Location: Heng Boun Rd. Contact: 071/252-162

STICKY FINGERS

Cuisine: Western Location: 103/3 Francois Nginn St Contact: 021/215-972

CHILL OUT CAFÉ

Cuisine: Lao/International Location: Dara Market Contact: 071/261-006

THE COTE D’AZUR PIZZERIA Cuisine: French Location: 62/63 Fa Ngum Contact: 021/217-252

CHOKDEE CAFÉ

DOUANG DEUNE RESTAURANT Cuisine: Asian Location: Francois Nginn St Contact: 021/241-154

HARE AND HOUND

Cuisine: Western Location: 9 Francois Nginn Rd Contact: 020/630-2616

LA BELLE EPOQUE

THE FULL MOON CAFÉ

Cuisine: French Location: 6 Pangkham Rd. Contact: 021/217-581

Cuisine: Western Location: Francois Nginn St Contact: 021/243-373

LE CENTRAL

Cuisine: French Location: 077/8 Setthathirath Rd Contact: 021/243-703

Luang Prabang

LA SIGNATURE

Cuisine: French Location: Quai Fa Ngum, Ban Vat Chan

BLUE LAGOON RESTAURANT Cuisine: Western Location: Ban Choumkhong Contact: 071/253-698 www.blue-lagoon-cafe.com

RESTAURANTS S U S

Cuisine: Belgian Location: 19/3 Fa Ngum Contact: 021/263-847

COULEUR CAFÉ & RESTAURANT Cuisine: Lao/French Location: 48/5 Ban Vat Nong Contact: 071/254-694

L’ELEPHANT RESTAURANT Cuisine: French Location: Ban Vat Nong Contact: 071/252-482 www.elephant-restau.com

NAZIM RESTAURANT

Cuisine: Indian Location: 78/4 Ban Visoun, Visounnarath Rd Contact: 071/252-263 www.nazim.laopdr.com

PARK HOUAY MIXAY

Cuisine: Lao Location: 75/76 Ban Xieng Mouane Contact: 071/212-260

TAMNAKLAO THE THREE ELEPHANTS RESTAURANT Cuisine: Lao Location: Sakkarine Rd Contact: 071/252-525

THE APSARA BAR & RESTAURANT Cuisine: Asian/International Location: Kingkitsarath Rd Contact: 071/254-670

THE TAMARIND CAFÉ

Cuisine: Lao Location: Ban Wat Nong Contact: 020/777-0484 www.tamarindlaos.com

LAOS Vieng Kheam Khong

Cuisine: Lao Location: 549 Ban Xieng Moune Contact: 071/212-726

e r u t a n g i S La W

hen you walk around the central part of Vientiane, try venturing into the small streets (hom in Lao) and into the different little villages that makes up a large part of the center around Samsenthai and Setthathirat roads. Here you will still be able to find lots of the old colonial style buildings and architecture. One such little hom is Hom 5, running from Quai Fa Ngum next to vat chan.

In this little hom, you will find the exquisite French owned and run boutique hotel Ansara and their restaurant La Signature.

Considering the size of Vientiane, the amount of restaurants and different styles of cuisine available is pretty good. However, once it comes to 5-star fine-dining, the choices are not that many. La Signature definitely falls into that fine-dining category!

There is a choice of upstairs inside dining with air-conditioning or outside garden terrace seating. Since this December evening is nice and cool we chose the fresh-air of the garden. The menu is very traditional French in all its simplicity and extravagance combined, offering just enough choice so that every taste is catered for and satisfied.

ລາ ຊິກນະຕວຽກ

ຮານອາຫານຄຸນນະພາບດີຂອງວຽງຈັaນ ລຕອມລົaດຊາດ ແລະ ບຳaເລີລນ ຂອງທານ ດວຍອາຫານຝຣaງຊaນດີ ທຮານອາຫານ ລາ ຊິກນາຕວຽກ ໃນວຽງຈັaນ. ໃນນະຄອນວງ ມີຮານອາຫານດີໆໃຫເລືອກາຍ ແຕ ລາ ຊິກນາຕວຽກ ແມນບອນຊຸມນຸມ ຂອງນັaກຊຽວ ຊານດານອາຫານທaວປະເທດ. ນຳaສະເໜີໂດຍ ພຄົaວຝຣaງ ຊອງ ມາຣີ ສແຕງເມສ ລາຍກາ ນອາຫານແມນແບບພນເມືອງຝຣaງແທໆ ທປະສົaມປະສານຄວາມລຽບງາຍ ເຂາກັaບ ຄວາມາ ເພອມອບທາງເລືອກທຕອບສ ະໜອງຕຄວາມຕອງການຂອງທຸກລົaດຊາດ ຢາງໜາເພງພໍໃຈ.

The chef, Jean Marie Stainmesse, suggested we should start with the signature dish; a delightful plate of 3 different fois gras that literally melted our tongues. For main course, I chose a sirloin steak with roast potatoes and carrots and my companion chose the risotto with truffle. I guess strictly speaking this would count as Italian cuisine, but definitely a welcome supplement to the French

NE

NTIA E I V N I ING

N

FINE-DI

TO DINE FOR

TANTALIZE YOUR TASTE BUDS WITH EXQUISITE FINE DINING FRENCH CUISINE AT LA SIGNATURE RESTAURANT IN VIENTIANE. THE CITY MIGHT NOT HAVE THE VASTEST CHOICE OF FINE DINING OPTIONS IN SOUTH-EAST-ASIA, BUT THIS IS ONE FIVE-STAR EATERY YOU CANNOT AFFORD TO MISS

delicacies that makes up the remainder of the menu.

It is not hard to find a good steak in Vientiane. It has, however, over time proved to be a hard task for me to find a place that consistently serves a great steak every time.

Local meat can be of excellent quality, but it can also very easily turn out to be disappointingly average. A place that serves you a great steak on one night might well turn out to be rather disappointing the very next.

Since this is my third time at La Signature, I feel safe to say that so far this would be my favorite choice for steak in Vientiane! If I were to be critical at all, I would say that the sauce was a bit on the sweet side, but nothing to spoil the tasty and perfectly prepared meat.

For the Risotto, the balance and fullness of the fatty rice combined with the intensity of truffles was struck perfectly and the presentation of the dish was worthy of an art gallery. To go with the food we decided on the house wine - a pretty standard but decent tasting Cabernet Sauvignon from Robertson’s Winery. To be fair, the wine card does of course hold more interesting choices and so it is possible to indulge here as well.

As we were both pretty full, we had to skip the dessert, but judging from the choice and my previous experience it would not have been a disappointment.

All in all, a true gourmet experience and a place that is certainly worth a visit if you are looking for great food in Vientiane.

53

WISH LIST

VIENTIANE BARI GEMS & JEWELRY

Style: Jewelry Location: 368 Samsenthai Road Contact: +856-21-212680

featured shop

Kopnoi Kopnoï, taken from the Lao language, means “little frog”, a universal symbol for balance in the environment. In November 2005, after four years of developing the eco-dyed cotton apparel collection for men, women & kids, Kopnoï’s opened an Export Promotion Center located in Luang Prabang, Laos. Their selection also includes silk apparel & accessories, designer jewelry, home collection, as well as gift boxes, spices & delicacies.

LUANG PRABANG CARTERIE DU LAOS

Style: Handmade cards and prints Location: 118/2 Thanon Setthathirat Contact: +856 (0) 21 241401

Silk Shoulder Bag Made from Fine silk. 45" Braided silk strap.

2 styles: Green with motifs, Shades of Brown.

KOPNOI Fine Silk Scarf With traditional Lao motifs.

Available in 2 colors: Pink, Grey.

Style: Fashion, accessories, silk Location: Ban Aphay Luang Prabang Contact: +856 71 260248 www.kopnoi.com

COULEUR D’ASIE

Style: French-Vietnamese dress designs Location: Namphou Square Contact: +856 21 223008

Designer Silver Pendant Necklace 92.5% Silver Designer Silver Bracelet Handwoven Bamboo from Recycled Traditional Rice Box - 92.5% Silver

PATHANA BOUPHA ANTIQUE HOUSE

Style: Antique statuary, jewelry, silverwork, Location: 26/2 Ban Visoun, Luang Prabang Contact: +856 71 212262

BAAN KHILY GALLERY

PHAENG MAI GALLERY

Style: Traditional weaved silk items Location: 117 Nongbouathong Tai Village Contact: 856 21 217341 www.silk-phaengmai.laopdr.com

Style: Handmade Lao handicrafts Location: 43/2 Baan Khily, Luang Prabang Contact: +856 71 212261

NAGA CREATIONS

KOPNOI Ban Aphay Luang Prabang, Laos Near L'Etranger, Books & Tea and hive bar.

Email: info@kopnoi.com Tel: 856-071-260 248

54

Style: Jewelry, precious stones, silver Location: Th Sisavangvong, Old Town Contact: +856 0207775005

OCKPOPTOK

Style: Home textiles, village weavers products, scarves Location: 73/5 Ban Vat Nong Contact: +856 71 253219

SATRI LAO SILK

Style: Antique silk, jewelry, furniture Location: 79/4 Setthathirath Road Contact: + 856 21 219 295 www.satrilao.laopdr.com

Bane Vixoun, Setthatirath Road, Luang Prabang, Lao PDR Tel: 071 212 642, 071 252 933 Fax: 071 212 818 info@luangprabangoasis.com www.luangprabangoasis.com

SABAIDEE RELAX

DHAMMADA MASSAGE OASIS

REALIGN YOUR SENSES WITH DHAMMADA MASSAGE OASIS GAID P. KORNSILAPA

"D

hammada" in Lao means ordinary; however, when you have finished a simple treatment here at Dhammada Massage Oasis you will experience an overwhelming feeling of 'extraordinary' that will rejuvenate your body and realign your senses.

Nestled within a lush tropical compound at the 'Tropical Oasis Park' in Luang Prabang, Dhammada Massage Oasis is the ultimate relaxation hideaway offering simple yet effective massage treatments performed so impressively that the spa has already been recommended by some of the world’s most famous spa guidebooks.

Luang Prabang is a World Heritage town that is best explored on foot, so partaking in the recommended Foot Relaxation Treatment at Dhammada Massage Oasis will relieve the stress on your feet,

which also supports and affects the entirety of your body. Couple this treatment together with a back and shoulder massage and you will feel completely satisfied and inspired.

The “Oriental Massage” is well renowned across the region, and the masseur will adjust the pressure to suit the individual needs of the guest, strengthening the back muscles and supporting your whole body. Another highly recommended treatment is the Aroma Oil Massage, which is 120 minutes of pure bliss, alleviating tension and caressing your mind, body and soul.

Service rates start from 50,000 for 40 minutes. Dhammada Massage Oasis operates from 10.00 am to 8.00 pm.

Call 071 212642 for reservations or visit www.luangprabangoasis.com for more information.

55

SABAIDEE RELAX

PAPAYA SPA

Papaya Spa, PO Box 9891 Ban Sithan Neua, Vientiane Laos PDR Phone: 219626 or (020) 020 50 03 601 www.papayaspa.com

S

ituated in Vientiane, Papaya Spa is a majestic old French colonial-style residence, surrounded by lush gardens of tropical orchids set among palms, mango, frangipani and coconut trees.

The spa is a unique refuge from life’s daily grind through Herbal Steam Baths, Traditional Lao, Swedish, Aromatherapy and Foot Reflexology massages.

Discover the exclusive Papaya Spa’s Body and Facial treatment Packages including some great options such as “Fresh traditional home made recipes” with papaya, tamarind, honey, milk, turmeric and more. The herbal steam bath rooms and the intimate “Women’s corner” is where you can splash yourself with floral scented water, surrounded by the turquoise blue patio. The VIP Pavilions, complete with private garden, provide full privacy and cozy comfort. Constructed with traditional golden teak and rosewood carpentry, the exquisite ambiance is completed with rare Asian antiques.

56

JEPPE BAUER CARLSEN

MATTHEW WAKEM

REVITALIZE AND REPLENISH AT PAPAYA SPA IN VIENTIANE After treating yourself to untold pampering, relax in the garden or enjoy herbal teas and refreshments at the Papaya Spa bar.

With a great selection of fully-trained therapists from Vientiane’s Traditional Medicine Institute, and with additional expertise from Moh Shivagakomarpaj Foundation, Chiang Mai, and the Cosmoprof Institute of Singapore, your mind, body and soul is within the hands of professionals.

The selection of Papaya Spa Body and Facial Care Treatments benefit from the spa’s own blends of 100% pure natural fragrance essential oils, created in Grasse, France. Rejuvenate your vibrations with massages and treatments such as the Traditional Lao Herbal Steam Bath, Traditional Lao massage, Swedish massage, Aromatherapy massage, Foot reflexology, Body scrubs & Facial care, Pedicure/Manicure and Body Waxing. If you are seeking out that day of relaxation and pampering, Papaya Spa in Vientiane is the ultimate choice.

HEALTH & SPA Vientiane CHAMPA SPA Signature: Traditional Lao Massage Location: Samsenthai Road & Pangkham Road Contact: +856 21 264097-8

PAPAYA SPA LANE XANG Signature: Exclusive body and facial treatments Location: Ban Sithan Neua Contact: (020) 55610565 www.papayaspa.com

GUIDE

LISTING Luang Prabang

NIRVANA SPA Signature: Lao Traditional Massage Location: Rue Pangkham Contact: +856 21 222 936 www.nirvana-spa-laos.com

OASIS SPA MASSAGE & BEAUTY Signature: Traditional Lao Massage Location: 18 01 FrancoisNgin St Contact: +856-21 24 3579

DHAMMADA MASSAGE OASIS Signature: Traditional Lao Massage Location: Setthathirath Road Contact: 071 212 642

LEMONGRASS SAUNA & TRADITIONAL MASSAGE Signature: Herbal Sauna Location: Sisavangvong Rd Contact: (856) - 205597370

KHMU RESTAURANT SPA & MASSAGE DALAH SPA Signature: Hot Herbal Massage Location: 140 Khouvieng St Contact: +856-21 28 5125

NIYOM MASSAGE & SPA Signature: Traditional Lao Massage Location: 045/09 04 Khoualuang Tai Contact: Traditional Lao Massage

Signature: Lao and Khamu Massages Location: Sisavangvong Road Contact: 071 212092

LAO RED CROSS SAUNA AND MASSAGE Signature: Herbal Sauna Location: Wat Wisunarat Contact: 071 252856

LAO LAOS OS MANEE SPA

Signature: Traditional Lao Massage Location: 004 17 Sokpaluang St Contact: +856-21 35 3207

DALAVANH TRADITIONAL MASSAGE Signature: Traditional Lao Massage Location: 006 01 Phiavat Contact: +856-21 21 3313

THE MEKONG SPA

Signature: Aromatherapy Massage Location: Phou Vao road | La Residence Phou Vao Contact: 071 212194

MANDARINA BODY AND SOUL SPA

RAMAYANA BOUTIQUE HOTEL & SPA

Signature: Herbal Massage Location: 101-3 Samsenthai Rd XiengNyeun Contact: +856-21 22 3857

Signature: Traditional Lao Massage Contact: 071-255055 Location: 128 Toutane Avenue, Ban Pakham 57

GREEN CARE FUND

GREEN

CARE FUND BUILDING A GREENER AND BRIGHTER FUTURE Alan Wass

THE GREEN CARE FUND IN LAOS IS AN ORGANIZATION DEVOTED TO EDUCATING THE LOCALS AND LAOS IN GENERAL ABOUT THE IMPACT AN ECOLOGICALLY SOUND ETHOS TO LAOS AND TOURISM IS THE WAY FORWARD FOR CREATING A BETTER AND MORE SUSTAINABLE COUNTRY.

58

I

n the modern world so preoccupied with economic growth and GDP, it’s refreshing to learn that good causes still exist in the wake of the surrounding megalomania currently suffocating our planet.

The Green Car Fund, a part of the Green Discovery Adventure & Eco Tourism group, is a private fund dedicated to promoting awareness of nature conservation among Lao urban youth and their teachers.

Nature and eco-tourism is the way forward, especially for a country such as Laos, which is a fledgling nation as far as holidaymakers are concerned. Rain forests cover two thirds of Laos’ entire land area, with 21 protected areas covering 16% of the territory. In a bid to protect its beautiful natural abundance from illegal logging and poaching, the Green Care Fund ideology pictures a Laos where society and economy can live in perfect harmony adhering to the sound principles of Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR).

Educating locals, starting with children, who are the future of the country, is where the Green Care Fund excels. Sound education on such green and eco-friendly values inspired the Green Card Fund’s organized visit of twenty-five students from Sisattanak Lower Secondary School to Tad Leuk, part of the Phou Khao Kbouay National Protected Area in Thaphabath district, Borikhamxay province.

Senior advisor for Sustainable Tourism at Green Discovery, Dr Klaus Schwettrnann, said “We want children, especially those in lower secondary schools, to learn from spending time in forested areas, because we know that students who come from poor families won’t have the chance to get out of the city and visit such places.”

“The children can benefit from playing Games, cooking, trekking, setting up their tents, and building a camp fire at night. They also learn how to preserve forests and can enjoy the peacefulness such an environment offers through the activities we organize,” he said. “We hope to make this a regular event, but we need support from the private sector and embassies.”

Targeting young students from lower secondary schools from the ages of 10 to 18, the children are encouraged, along with their parents and teachers, to proactively participate in the tour preparation. Taking part in team-building exercises such as tent building, cooking and trekking alongside lectures on forest management and issues regarding illegal logging, wildlife trade, establishing protected areas, biodiversity and sustainable usage of non-timber forest products (NTFP), the children are encouraged to reflect upon what they have learned from their experience and their own honest feelings towards the issues.

The Green Care Fund promote a cohesion between organizations who are sometimes seen as distant entities from each other such as the Lao government, universities, national and international organizations working in the field of nature conservation and education, and private companies. It is a fundamental point to the philosophy of Green Care to neither compete with any of these organizations nor reinvent something that is already in place - it’s all about working together to protect the nation’s natural beauty while at the same time promoting Laos in a positive and attractive fashion.

The ultimate goal is to instigate a genuine feeling of appreciation of nature the kids can carry back home. The Green Care staff has years of experience in this specific field and profits from Green Discovery Laos’s knowledge of tours in Laos’ nature. It is such a great cause, helping locals understand the impact the negative issues have on rain forests and the world in general.

Green Discovery Laos, leading eco-tourism tour operator in Laos focusing on nature discovery and adventure travel, operates for the benefit of underprivileged people in rural areas, especially ethnic minorities. The protection of the environment has always been a foremost concern in the companyphilosophy. For more information on Green Discovery Laos or how you can become a part of the Green Care Fund, please visit their website at www. greencarelaos.org

59

MAP OF LAOS 60

GETTING THERE

LAOS GENERAL INFO Laos is quickly becoming the newest place to visit in South-East-Asia. Although in the past when travelling across the sub-continent has been mentioned, tourists have been recommended to visit famous places such as Bangkok in Thailand or Angkor Wat in Cambodia, Laos has rarely been mentioned. People are now starting to realize Laos is a viable tourist destination, with the shroud of ignorance now being lifted. Part of the problem was that Laos was fairly isolated due to having a communist government, which became left out on its own in a tourism sense since the government took power in 1975.

Recently, the mentality towards Laos has been changing and the world is starting to recognize and rediscover its beauty, culture and colorful local people. Now being mentioned in the same breath as its neighbors, Laos is also making great strides to accommodate tourists from far and wide.

VISITOR INFORMATION If you are looking for basic brochures on Lao tourism, you can contact the Lao Tourism Authority, which is more of an administration service than an information source.

NATIONAL TOURISM AUTHORITY OF LAO P.D.R., 08/02 Lane Xang Ave., P.O. Box 2511, Vientiane, Lao P.D.R. (tel. 021/212-248 or 021/212-251; fax 021/212-769; www.tourismlaos.gov.la If you are seeking written English information about Laos, you can try the official Laos website, www.visit-laso.com, which is sponsored by the Lao government. The website is very informative and accurate, providing you with lots of details regarding the country. For international news, domestic current and government affairs, you can visit www.laoembassy.com, which is run by the Lao Embassy in Washington, D.C. FOR DETAILS OF THE LAO EMBASSY IN THAILAND, PLEASE SEE BELOW: 520/502/1-3 Soi Sahakarnpramoon, Wangthonglang, Bangkok 10310, Pracha Uthit Road (end of Soi Ramkhamhaeng 39) Tel: 539-6667-8 or 539-7341; Fax: 539-3827 or 539-6678; www.bkklaoembassy.com

Lao shares official land borders with Thailand, Vietnam and China, although you will find that some of the borders are not accessible to westerners, such as to China through a crossing point named Boten. The Laos-Vietnam borders of Dien Bien Phu and Sam Neua in the north are also closed.

BY PLANE Bangkok is the main link to Laos, and has flights to both Vientiane and Luang Prabang. However, you can also fly into Laos on regular flights from Cambodia and Vietnam, which means you can fly into the three neighboring countries from anywhere in South-East-Asia and make the quick hop over to Vientianeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wattay International Airport.

BY TRAIN One of the most popular ways to visit Laos is by train. This is a great option if travelling from Bangkok on Thailandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s northeastern line from Hua Lampong Railway Station in Bangkok (Tel: 02223-7010 or 1690). Travelling from Bangkok northwards, the train connects with all the major provincial capitals and finishes up in Nong Khai, which is in Thailand but right next to Vientiane. It is also possible to reach southern Laos at Pakse via Bangkok and the Thai terminal at Ubon Ratchathani. From Ubon, you will have to take two bus rides to get to the border, and then a songthaew from there to Pakse.

BY BUS You can travel on an overnight VIP air-conditioned bus from Bangkok to Vientiane for approximately 700 THB, via Friendship Bridge, which will leave you on the Thai side of the border. Buses from north-eastern Thai cities such as Nong Khai and Udonthani will also take you to the Thai border via Friendship Bridge for 55 THB and 80 THB respectively.

BY BOAT You can make the crossing on the Mekong River from Chiang Khong in Thailand and from the border to Luang Prabang it is a two-day boat ride, where a 15-day visa is available on arrival.

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS You will need a valid visa and passport when entering Laos, although there are some sites where you can get a visa on arrival such as travelling by air to Vientiane and Luang Prabang, crossing Friendship Bridge to Vientiane from Nong Khai. Other places you can get a visa on arrival includes the crossing from Chiang Khong to Houayxai, Savannakhet and Vung Tao. If you are traveling from Vietnam, make sure you have prearranged your visa. For a 30-day visa, you will pay 30USD. However, if you organize a visa in an embassy outside of Laos, expect to pay approximately 35USD. For more details, please visit www. laoembassy.com 61

VIENTIANE FAST INFO

As the capital of Laos, Vientiane is a must see city when traveling through Laos PDR. Vientiane became the capital in 1563 because of fears surrounding Burmese invasion. Under French rule, Vientiane became the administrative capital while in recent times has also become the economic hub of the country. Sitting on the northern banks of the Mekong River, the city has a colorful culture, amazing hospitality and is the home to some of the tastiest Laos food imaginable. With its French colonial characteristics and leafy boulevards surrounded by rustic temples and coconut palms, this is a city that mixes colonial architecture within a tropical environment. The laidback atmosphere is ideal for visitors, and is rapidly becoming one of the most fascinating cities to see in Asia.

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HOTELS

IN

VIENTIANE

SETTHA PALACE HOTEL Tel: +856 21 217 581 2 reservations@setthapalace.com www.setthapalace.com

DON CHAN PALACE Tel: +856 21 244 288 donchanpalace@laopdr.com www.donchanpalacelaopdr.com

LAO PLAZA HOTEL Tel: +856 21 222 741-42, 218 800-1 Fax: +856 21 222 740, 218 807-9 lph@laoplazahotel.com www.laoplazahotel.com

PARKVIEW EXECUTIVE SUITES VIENTIANE Tel: +856 21 250 888 parkview@laotel.com www.parkviewexecutive.com

SALANA BOUTIQUE HOTEL Tel: +856 21 254 254 wecare@salanaboutique.com rsvn@salanaboutique.com www.salanaboutique.com

VIENTIANE PLAZA HOTEL Tel: +856 21 265365 reservation@vientianeplazalao.com www.vientianeplazalao.com

ANGKHAM HOTEL Tel: +856 21 900 011 info@angkhamhotel.com www.angkhamhotel.com

MERCURE VIENTIANE Tel: +856] 21 213 570-1 resvn@mercurevte.com www.mercure.com

ANSARA HOTEL Tel: +856 21 213 514-8 info@ansarahotel.com www.ansarahotel.com

THE RAMAYANA GALLERY BOUTIQUE HOTEL Tel: +856 21 214 455-7 galleryhotel@ramayana-laos.com www.ramayana-laos.com 63

VANG VIENG FAST INFO

Situated between Vientiane and the World Heritage site of Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng was once nothing more than a bus stop for those visiting Vientiane from Luang Prabang. Now Vang Vieng is a destination in its own rights with a laidback and relaxed atmosphere nestled beside the Nam Song (Song River) surrounded by beautiful limestone Karst terrain. With its stunning countryside and its old charm style, this is a colorful destination.

HOTELS IN

VANG VIENG

VILLA NAM SONG Tel: +856 23 511 637 reservation@villanamsong.com www.villanamsong.com

VANSANA VANG VIENG Tel: +856 23 511 598-9, 511 600-1 info@vansanahotel-group.com www.vansanahotel-group.com

THE ELEPHANT CROSSING HOTEL Tel/Fax: +856 23 511 232 Mob: +856 20 560 2830 or 245 4730 info@theelephantcrossinghotel.com www.theelephantcrossinghotel.com

Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ROSE RESORT@VANG VIENG Tel: +856 23 511 035 droseresortatvangvieng@yahoo.com www.drosehotelvientiane.com

THAVONSOUK RESORT Tel: +856 23 511 096 , +856 21 414 149 Mob:+856 20 760 7111, 570 3100 thavonsouk.resort@gmail.com www.thavonsouk.com

VILLA VANG VIENG RIVERSIDE Tel:+856 23 511460 info@villavangvieng.com www.villavangvieng.com 64

CHAMPASAK & PAKSE

FAST INFO

As the capital city of Champasak, Pakse is an important city in southern Lao used as a hub by travellers to explore the south. Situated where the rivers of the Mekong and Se-Done meet, the city has stunning views and scenery regardless of your reasons for visiting the region, be it business or pleasure.

Pakseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s population is just 70,000, which makes it a very small city, although it has been the commercial center of the south for centuries. The Mekong River provides the perfect route for transportation, which has been the reason why Pakse is an important city for linking the north with the south of Lao. Since the opening of a bridge in 2002 across the Mekong, the city has become even more accessible. Flowing from the Thai city of Ubon Ratchathani, you now have the opportunity to explore the Bolaven Plateau, Xe Pian National Protected Area, Wat Phu and Si Phan Don. As the influx of visitors to Pakse increases, the city has become a place for a wide range of guesthouses and hotels, allowing you to stay in the city for a few days and absorb the unique atmosphere of the region.

66

HOTELS HOTELS

IN CHAMPASAK

IN PAKSE

CHAMPASAK PALACE HOTEL Tel: +856 31 212 263, 212 777-80, 252 130 info@champasakpalacehotel.com www.champasakpalacehotel.com

CHAMPASAK GRAND HOTEL Tel: +856 31 255 111-8, 260 211 res@champasakgrand.com www.champasakgrand.com

ARAWAN RIVERSIDE HOTEL Tel: +856 31 260 34 550 info@arawanhotelpakse.com www.arawanhotelpakse.com

RESIDENCE SISOUK Tel: +856 31 214 716 contact@residence-sisouk.com www.residence-sisouk.com

SALACHAMPA HOTEL & RESTAURANT Tel: +856 31 212 273 www.salachampahotel.com

MEKONG PARADISE RESORT Tel: +856 31 212 120 mekongparadise@yahoo.com www.mekongparadise-resortgroup.com

INTHIRA HOTEL Tel: +856 31 214 059 info@inthirahotels.com www.inthirahotels.com

KINGFISHER ECOLODGE Tel: +856 20 557 26 315, 20 996 71 574 info@kingfisherecolodge.com www.kingfisherecolodge.com

SINOUK COFFEE RESORT sinouk@laopdr.com www.sinoukcoffeeresort.com

PAKSE HOTEL Tel: +856 31 212 131, +856 31 252 993 info@hotelpakse.com www.hotelpakse.com

VAT PHOU CRUISES Tel: +856 31 251 446 www.vatphou.com 67

SAVANNAKHET

FAST INFO

Situated in western Laos, Savannakhet, officially known as Kaysone Phomvihane, is the capital of the Savannakhet province and the second-largest city in the country, after Vientiane. With a mixed population of Thai, Vietnamese and Lao people, the old French colonial quarter of the town sits on the banks of the Mekong River. Because of the city’s close proximity to Thailand and their booming economy, Savannakhet has benefitted from lots of commercial development in the northern part of town.

The city is home to a 15th century Buddist temple, named Wat Sainyaphum.

Showing the city’s diversity, there is also a Catholic Church, a Chinese temple and a mosque.

HOTELS

IN SAVANNAKHET

SAVAN VEGAS HOTEL & CASINO Tel: +856 41 252 200 savan.reservation@savanvegas.com sales.marketing@savanvegas.com www.savanvegas.com

DAOSAVANH RESORT & SPA Tel: +856 41 252188, 252199 Mob: (+856-20) 58515555, 58885263, 23355363 info@daosavanhhtl.com www.daosavanhhtl.com

HOONGTHIP HOTEL Tel: +856 41-251279, 41-213229, 41-212262 hoongthip@hotmail.com

XAYAMOUNGKHOUN GUESTHOUSE Tel: +856 41 212426

NONGSODA GUESTHOUSE Tel: +856 41 212522.

LEENA’S GUESTHOUSE Tel: +856 41 212404

PHOULAVANE GUESTHOUSE Tel: +856 309671606 68

LUANG PRABANG FAST INFO

Luang Prabang is a protected UNSCO World Heritage site situated on the peninsula formed by the Mekong River.

Although Luang Prabang is a small city, there are many things to see and do for travelers. Benefitting from a stunning collection of French colonial buildings alongside some very old temples and Buddhist monuments, Luang Prabang is a great example of how traditional Lao architecture and 19th century colonial styles merge together to create a fascinating and colorful travel experience.

Surrounded by mountains and set 700 meters above sea-level where the Nam Khan River and the Mekong River meets, the city is rapidly becoming the center of Laosâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; new found tourist popularity.

The city boasts many old temples and Buddhist monuments with one of the most famous being Pha That Luang. The original was constructed in 1566 and restored in 1953. The 45-meter high golden stupa is where a relic of Lord Buddha himself is believed to sit. With everything from royal palaces to 33 temples, the city is a perfect destination for travellers seeking out Buddhist teachings or a slice of authentic Asia.

70

Luang Prabang is home to both historical sites and natural beauty. If you want to see some breathtaking natural sites, you can visit Pak Ou Caves or Kuang Si Falls.

Visitors also enjoy elephant rides along jungle treks. Well known historical sites include Haw Kham Royal Palace Museum and the Wat Xieng Thong temple.

When you reach the end of the main street, you will find the night market with a colorful selection of bracelets, shirts, tea and standard tourist souvenirs.

With tourism to Lao now reaching new heights, Luang Prabang is the premier destination in the country because of its interesting mix of culture, history and laidback atmosphere.

HOTELS IN LUANG

PRABANG

THE LUANG SAY RESIDENCE

Tel: + 856 71 260 891 E-mail: info@luangsayresidence.com www.luangsayresidence.com SATRI HOUSE RELAIS & CHATEAUX HOTEL

Tel: +856 71 253 491-2 info@satrihouse.com www.satrihouse.com

LA RESIDENCE PHOU VAO

Tel: +856 71 212 194 or 212 530 reservations@residencephouvao.com www.residencephouvao.com VILLA NAGARA

Tel: + 856 71 252 829 Mob: + 856 20 555 70499 support@villanagara.com www.villanagara.com LE PALAIS JULIANA

Tel: +856 71 260 417 rsvn@lepalaisjuliana.com www.lepalaisjuliana.com SHINTA MANI HOTEL

Tel: +856 71 260 560 www.shintamani.com HOTEL DE LA PAIX LUANG PRABANG

Tel: +856 71 260 777 book@hoteldelapaixlp.com www.hoteldelapaixlp.com HOTEL 3 NAGAS

Tel: +856 71 253 888 book@3-nagas.com www.3-nagas.com VILLA MALY

Tel: +856 71 253 902-4 info@villa-maly.com www.villa-maly.com LUANG PRABANG RESIDENCE

Tel: +856 71 260 699, 260 676 info@luangprabangresidence.com www.luangprabangresidence.com THE GRAND LUANG PRABANG HOTEL & RESORT

Tel: +856 71 253 851-7 info@grandluangprabang.com www.grandluangprabang.com XIENGTHONG PALACE

Tel: +856 71 213 200 reservation.xtp@jetwingindochina.com www.xiengthongpalace.com HOTEL VILLA DEUX RIVIERES

MUANG THONG HOTEL

Tel: +856 71 254 976 reservation@muangthonglpb.com www.muangthonglpb.com THE CHANG HERITAGE HOTEL

Tel: +856 71 255 031 info@the-chang.com www.the-chang.com

LUANG PRABANG PARADISE RESORT

Tel: +856 71 213 103, 20 235 3337, 20 389 5885 contact@luangprabangparadiseresort.com www.luangprabangparadiseresort.com LE BEL AIR BOUTIQUE RESORT

Tel:+ 856 71 254 699, 213 079 Mob: + 856 20 2235 0050 info@lebelairhotels.com www.lebelairhotels.com

MY DREAM BOUTIQUE RESORT

Tel: + 856 71 252 853, 252 198 info@mydreamresort.com www.mydreamresort.com THE VIEW PAVILION

Tel: +856 71 253 918 info@theviewpavilion.com www.theviewpavilion.com MAISON DALABUA

Tel: +856 71 255 588 , 253 923 info@maison-dalabua.com www.maison-dalabua.com LUANG PRABANG OASIS VILLA NAMNUEA

Tel: +856 71 212 642, 252 933 info@luangprabangoasis.com www.luangprabangoasis.com RAMA HOTEL

Tel: +856 71 212 247 rama_hotel@yahoo.com www.ramahotellaos.com ANCIENT LUANGPRABANG HOTEL

Tel: +856 71 212 264 info@ancientluangprabang.com www.ancientluangprabang.com

RESTAURANT LUANG PRABANG BAKERY & GUEST HOUSE

Tel: +856 71 252 499, +856 71 254 844 contact@luangprabang-bakery-guesthouse.com www.luangprabang-bakery-guesthouse.com THE BELLERIVE HOTEL

Tel: +856 71 260 733, 71 252 488 reservation@thebellerive.com www.thebellerive.com THE APSARA RIVE DROITE HOTEL

Tel: +856 71 254 670 info@theapsara.com www.theapsara.com

MAISON SOUVANNAPHOUM

Tel: +856 207 737 8575 info@villadeuxrivieres.com www.villadeuxrivieres.com

Tel: +856 71 254 609 maison@angsana.com www.angsana.com/en/ maison_souvannaphoum

SANTI RESORT & SPA

ZEN NAMKHAN BOUTIQUE RESORT

Tel: +856 71 252 157, 212 267 info@villasantihotel.com www.villasantihotel.com KIRIDARA HOTEL

Tel: +856 71 261 888 www.kiridara.com

Tel: +856 20 555 71 120 www.zennamkhanresort.com KAMU LODGE

Tel: +856 71 260 319 info@kamulodge.com www.kamulodge.com 71

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