Ruby Read September, 2013

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Ruby

September 2013

Published by

vintage begins here

Book Lust: Your Reading Pleasure

Marcia’s Must Haves

Collecting: Designer Tobi Fairley

Designer Spotlight Hutton Wilkinson

Artful Adornments Jewels, Gems & Treasures


Table of Contents 07

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Letter from the Editor

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Marcia Sherrill

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Collecting:

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Designer Spotlight

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Artful Adornments

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The Calendar

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Finis

Book Lust

Your Reading Pleasure

Must Haves

Designer Tobi Fairley

Hutton Wilkinson

Jewels, Gems & Treasures

Upcoming Events

Reader’s Resources


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fashion forward click & print recipes

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Where the good life comes together!

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From the perfect gemstone to a one-ofa-kind piece, most of us have a passion for jewelry. While we may not have the impressive collection the iris-eyed Academy Award winning actress once owned (and sold for almost 116 million at a Christie’s auction in 2011), collecting antique, estate and costume jewelry can be a wonderful experience. So it’s fitting that the theme of the September issue of Ruby Read focuses on jewelry. Writer Candace Manroe visits with Hutton Wilkinson, designer extraordinaire whose far-reaching talents range from designing dramatic interiors to creating jewels worn on the red carpet by stars of stage and screen. As owner and creative director of Tony Duquette, Inc., he oversees a tabletop, home furnishings and lighting collection and somehow finds the time to pen books -- Tony Duquette/Hutton Wilkinson, Jewelry (Abrams, 2011) being one of my favorites. (You can also read up on the top jewelry coffee table tomes in our new Book Lust section). Writer Elizabeth Hickman gives our readers an armchair visit to Boston’s Museum of Fine Arts exhibition “Jewels, Gems and Treasures: Ancient to Modern.” The collection offers a wide array of historic jewels from First Lady Mary Todd Lincoln’s sapphire Flag brooch to a platinum and emerald brooch worn by heiress Marjorie Merriweather Post. Interior designer Tobi Fairley, whose high profile work has graced the pages of the top design magazines, joins us for a primer on how to display your collections. Selected as one of Traditional Home’s Top 20 Young Designers in America, her unique design firm offers a DIY design service and design camps -- along with great advice. I hope you are enjoying the new Ruby Lane format as well as Ruby Read. And I would love to hear from you on articles that you would like to see us cover. Happy Collecting! Cathy Whitlock Editor-in-Chief cathy@rubylane.com

Letter from the Editor

Perhaps Elizabeth Taylor said it best, “I’ve never thought of my jewelry as trophies. I’m here to take care of it and to love it, for we are only temporary custodians of beauty.”

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Estate Jewelry provided by Levy’s Fine Jewelry


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Heirloom Modern Rizzoli | April 2013 | $50.00

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In their new book Heirloom Modern: Homes Filled with Objects Bought, Bequeathed, Beloved and Worth Handing Down (Rizzoli, 2013), the principles of

Hovey Design have a knack for incorporating history, nostalgia and general hand-me-downs into the home – no easy feat whether you are a trained professional or not. Known as both modern day “heirloomists” and coined the “New Antiquarians” by the New York Times, the duo have a shared love and respect for the past which stems from a childhood searching for flea market treasure in Kansas City. The beautifully illustrated book takes the reader on a home tour of a variety of heirloom aficionados that includes artists, architects, designers and landscape architects who have added a modern and eclectic design twist to inherited keepsakes, childhood collections and the occasional fabulous flea market find. Think antique Louis Vuitton trunks, toy soldier collections and vintage dressmaker forms applied to modern settings and you get the idea. Heirloom Modern is a must for anyone who loves antiques and design and be sure to follow the author’s lifestyle blog Hollister Hovey. 9


Cartier: Power of Style Flammarion | February 2011 | $49.95

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Perhaps one of the most recognizable and coveted jewelers, the renowned French company Cartier has a long following of royalty, socialites and stylemakers alike. Founded in Paris is 1847 by Louis Francois Cartier, the mere name is synonymous with beauty, aesthetic and allure and declared by King Edward VII as the “Jewelry to kings, king of Jewelers.”

Authors Eva Eisler, Pierre Rainero, Rony Plesl and Pascale Lepea give readers a voyeuristic look into the evolution of the jewels in their book Cartier: Power of Style (Flammarion). Chronicling the 2010 exhibit Cartier at Prague Castle – The Power of Style that featured

over 360 historical masterpieces of Maison Cartier, the book highlights the different stylistic periods of a company at the forefront of style trends. 450 lavish images of jewelry, timepieces and accessories from diamond studded tiaras and a thirties cigarette case (complete with Coco Chanel’s signature) to Egyptian inspired vanity cases and snake necklaces are showcased in exquisite detail with behind the scenes tidbits on their famous owners. Actor Gary Cooper favored the Trinity Ring and Yves Montand was often seen sporting the popular Cartier tank watch. Thirties film siren Gloria Swanson loved the two-rock crystal, diamond and platinum bracelets while the perennially elegant Duchess of Windsor was often photographed in the Cartier amethyst and turquoise necklace and panther clip brooch.

Cartier 18K 3-Color Gold Knot Cuff Links Item ID: RL-072113934

Cartier Set of Twelve Sterling and Enamel Spoons, c.1920 Item ID: 211-1215B

Cartier Tri Tone Clip-On Half Hoops Item ID: LAM4769

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FabergĂŠ Revealed: At the Virginia Museum of fine arts GĂŠza von Habsburg Rizzoli | July 2011 | $75.00 12


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Think Fabergé and the extraordinary Easter egg designs often come to mind. Created as special commissions for the Russian Imperial aristocracy and designed by goldsmith and jeweler Peter Carl Fabergé, the infamous and majestic jeweled egg is but one of the many masterpieces created in his studio during the late l9th and early 20th centuries. The book Fabergé Revealed richly details the marvelous designed objects from the Fabergé collection ranging from diamond-encrusted icons and tiaras to animal figures carved in stone and enameled parasol handles. The rich history of the studio, as showcased in the 2011 exhibition at the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts in Richmond, is chronicled through 600 archival and color photographs and essays.

Political GOP Brass Watch Fob Item ID: 85-

Fabergé Rose gold and Moss Agate Brooch Item ID: 1000032

Fabergé Etruscan Revival Antique Jeweled Gold Bangle Bracelet Item ID: 1000030

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Marcia’s Must Haves 14

The

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Ruby Read Brand Advisor and Creative Director, Marcia Sherrill, is both a fashion and interior designer. A member of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, she sells her accessories and home furnishings lines worldwide. Marcia shares with us her absolute Must Haves from the shoppes of Ruby Lane.

1 English Staffordshire 18th C. Enamel Etui The beautiful 18th century English South Staffordshire enameled etui nécessaire is decorated in a cobalt ground case enameled with a white crosshatch design of exceptional pastoral vignettes of floral sprigs. Size 5 1/4” height.


Rare Spanish Fighting Bull from an early European Carousel A rare wooden Spanish fighting bull with a relief carved ornamental saddle, sword and banderillas in original or very early paintwork. Measuring 47 inches long by 27 inches high, this rare carousel collector’s piece came from an early 20th century carousel or merry-goround that travelled in the traditional bullfighting area of SW France and the Pyrenean border region of Spain.

Lucite Coral Reef Scene

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Preserved for eternity in lucite is a variety of sea life -- seahorses and fish in a central coral and shell formation with a colorful bottom of small stones. The item is 8 and 3/4 inches in diameter and 6 inches tall.

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Extraordinary Offering: Extremely Rare Museum Quality Antique Clichy Pair Of Signed Scrambled Millefiori Vases

These vases are the only matched pair known to be in a private collection. Two other similar examples are part of the Corning Museum Of Glass, Corning, N. Y., and the Bergstrom-Mahler Museum, Neenah, WI. Item purchased from L. H. Selman Fall Auction, 2008, which featured the collection of Sam and Winifred Alschuler

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Cuff Bracelet with Sapphires & Semi-Precious Stones ~ circa 1980’s

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This unique bracelet will appeal to those who enjoy dramatic jewelry and colorful gems. Done in 14k yellow gold, the wide and heavy hinged bangle is covered with a myriad of colorful stones including natural sapphires and diamonds as well as genuine pink tourmalines, aquamarines, peridots and topaz to create a rainbow of color. Please note that all the semi-precious stones are genuine. The diamonds and sapphires are natural. The wide cuff will fit great on a small to moderate sized wrist.

Palais Royal Opaline Box and Cover with Miniature

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The Palais Royal French 19th century Dinky Opaline box and cover with a large eglamise (reverse painting on glass) miniature design is “La Madeleine” in Paris. This was possibly used as a pill box and bought from one of the famous Palais Royal Shops in Paris by a noble lady on the Grand Tour.

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Italian Carved Regencé Style Giltwood Mirror with Panels This mid 20th century Regencé style giltwood mirror features flowered urns and Prince of Wales feathers with an abundance of scrollwork. The crest is backed with a smoke finished mirror and hand carved in Italy.

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18th cen. Japanese 6 Panel Screen of Chinese Immortals

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Rare 6 panel Japanese screen of 8 of the Chinese Taoist Immortals. c.1780-1790. Each panel measures 72” high x 24” wide. Construction consists of a black lacquered wooden frame with applied metal mounts at corners and along the sides. Under construction consists of paper and fabric. Each panel originally attached by paper hinges. Front has a silk brocade outer border with a gold leaf interior border. The central field is mounted with silk panels, each measuring 52” high x 18 1/2” wide. Each panel portrays a Taoist Immortal.

Fabulous Vintage Collection Of Cigar Bands

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This is a fabulous collection of approximately 12,000 antique and vintage cigar bands . The bands are in as new “MINT” condition and are mounted in three 12” albums along with an assortment of loose bands in a cigar box. Many of the bands are noted as “RARE and “VERY RARE” This collection contains bands from the U.S., Cuba, Germany, France, Spain, Canada, Australia and the United Kingdom among others.

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(2) Large 14” Barbotine Vases

The Faience Manufacturing Company,(Greenpoint) Brooklyn New York is the creator of these magnificent pieces. The background is a deep green black on the base with different shades of a light blue and cream for the background on the upper portion of the vases. Petals, buds, leaves and stems have been hand formed with the clay and applied in gross relief with the slipcasting method. Beautiful salmon roses are on both vases with only one having yellow colored roses. 17


Collecting The Art of collecting Named one of Traditional Home’s Top 20 Young Designers in America,

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interior designer Tobi Fairley has decorated homes from Charleston to Los Angeles. Her popular DIY design service, In Box Interiors along with her design camps has garnered rave reviews. We are pleased to have the Little Rock native share her views on the art of collecting:


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Display Your Collection It’s such a shame to see a collection hidden or tucked-away. Think creatively about your options for showcasing your collection: Should it hang on the wall? Would it really shine from behind a glass-front cabinet or inside a glass-topped table? Can it be arranged on a surface, pedestal, or shelf ? Don’t limit yourself to what seems expected or typical—do your collection justice!

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Keep it Close at Hand If your collection is the kind that you can-and do--use, then by all means don’t limit your enjoyment of it by keeping it out of reach and inaccessible. Functional ways of storing, organizing, and displaying a collection you can use will enrich your experience as a collector!

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Pull it Together Scattering the pieces of your collection throughout a space—or even throughout your home—really minimizes the impact it can have. So bring it together to really turnup the volume.

Pick and Choose If you have multiple collections, like I do, maybe don’t keep them all front-and-center at all times. Or, if you have one gigantic collection, display a selected grouping at any given time and rotate when you are ready to freshen things up.


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Give Your Collection the Lead For a special event or holiday party, consider making one of your most treasured collections the key inspiration for your design, from color palette to motif. Give it the spotlight and you’ll really grow in your appreciation of it.

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Don’t Be a Snob Sometimes the most exciting piece in a collection was the least expensive, or maybe you collect something that is very inexpensive and ordinary but holds huge value for you personally. Stay open-minded and let your inspiration lead you, and you will always be surrounded by the things you love!

For more design tips from Tobi visit her at www.tobifairley.com

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Design Spotlight The impressive drawing room at Dawnridge, Duquette’s home in Beverly Hills as it is today.

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SIMPLY

FABULOUS Written by Candace Manroe

“If it’s not fabulous, it’s meaningless,” Hutton Wilkinson says, not for the first time in his life. In fact, these words are a kind of mantra for the designer of seemingly all things fabulous. His range includes bespoke 18-kt. gold jewelry, opulent interiors, and everything in between. Furniture, lighting, rugs, textiles—you name it, he designs it.

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of 17 to the world-renown interior and movie-set designer Tony Duquette, who died in 1999. Wilkinson became fascinated with Duquette when he was in only the 7th grade. He describes the allure in a 2010 blog he wrote for the Huffington Post: “From the minute I saw Tony Duquette sitting on the stage of his studio, on a throne from the Chapultepec Palace, wearing the robe of a Cardinal, surrounded by crushed abalone shells, crystal chandeliers, and mirrors, I knew at once what my future would hold.”

His interiors alone span velvet-cloaked Venetian palazzos and Parisian apartments with cascading crystal chandeliers. Then there are the dreamy confections he whips up for the Old Guard’s manses in hometown Los Angeles, where this son of an architect continues to reside with his wife, Ruth, in Beverly Hills. The jewel-tone palette that is his preference is as deep as his client’s pockets. “I got into this business at a good time, when people were willing to spend a pile of dough,” he laughs. The common thread in his designs of all mediums? “Layers,” says Wilkinson succinctly. For a designer with baroque taste, his conversation is aerated by understatement. “My interiors are layered, and my jewelry is stone on top of stone. A little too much is just enough for me.” As president of Tony Duquette, Inc., he got his start the old-fashioned way, apprenticing—gratis—from the tender age 24

Wilkinson apprenticed, renaissance style, for two years with no pay, then for another three years for $50 every two weeks. When Duquette offered to increase his wages by $5, Wilkinson said “’no thanks, I believe I can do better on my own.’” And he did. But he never severed ties with his mentor. Instead, they collaborated on projects for the likes of Norton Simon, Doris Duke, Herb Alpert, and Lani Hall.


“I got into this business at a good time, when people were willing to spend a pile of dough.”

The master bedroom of fashion icon and society matron Dodie Rosekrans in Paris. The panels were purchased from silent film star Mary Pickford’s “Pickfair” estate.

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Duquette installed this white sitting room for a client in Los Angeles in 2005. The carved rosewood furniture was purchased from actor James Coburn and the draperies are made of a distinctive Indian mirror fabric.

Through Duquette, Wilkinson rubbed shoulders with Hollywood royalty—Mary Pickford, Vincent Minelli, Fred Astaire, Irene Dunn. “Old black-and-white movies still inspire me. I love everything about old Hollywood—the way they lived, dressed, dined. I don’t want to give in to the modern world,” says Wilkinson. For his jewelry, that’s a good thing. “In its baroqueness, it becomes very modern,” he opines. His entrée to jewelry design began in 1998 when Bergdorf Goodman invited him and Duquette to launch a one-ofa-kind fine jewelry collection for its Manhattan store. Just four years before, the two designers had officially become business partners, with Wilkinson’s purchase of half of Tony Duquette Studios, Inc. 26

Prior to the jewelry collaboration, Duquette had dabbled in jewelry design for friends and family, developing a reputation for his exquisite designs. “Tony was already quite old when Bergdorf approached us,” recalls Wilkinson, “so I just did the designs for him. Nothing has changed since then, though we’re now sold in Saks and Neiman’s.” Wilkinson insists he’s neither a jeweler nor a gemologist, but first, foremost, and finally, a designer. “I’m not interested in a diamond on a chain or a 60-carat stone. Every piece is original, and I let the stones speak to me and decide how they should be used. Unlike many jewelers, I don’t do drawings first and cut the stones to fit. I don’t do lapidary work.”


“My jewelry is for the woman with a lot of self-confidence”

Instead, he plunders the treasure trove of vintage stones that Duquette collected for decades. “Tony collected since 1947, and we have four vaults of stones. I just sort of let them bubble up to the surface and design from there. My jewelry is for the woman with a lot of self-confidence and attitude the woman who doesn’t ask her husband for permission to buy bespoke jewelry.” She’s also the kind of woman, he suggests, who buys en suite. “We design en suite. People think this isn’t chic, but that’s not true. The truth is, they just can’t afford it. It is the definition of luxury to have en suite jewelry made just for you.” Wilkinson and Duquette’s jewelry designs can be viewed at an exhibition by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) at the GIA Museum in Carlsbad, California, from October 10, 2013 to March 2014. And for those who can’t afford one-of-akind 18-kt. originals, Wilkinson’s costume line is available on the Home Shopping Network. 27


Hutton Wilkinson purchased the home after Duquette’s death in 2000. Shown here is the drawing room.

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Tony Duqette’s famed Dawnridge Los Angeles estate in 1950.

Photos courtesy of Tony Duquette Studio

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Artful Adornments

Beyond the Safe Deposit Box Jewelry is on a dazzling rise By Elizabeth Betts Hickman

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Whether it’s celebrity jewels, such as those once owned by the Duchess of Windsor, or just a dazzling and well-designed piece, jewelry has long been

the status symbol of choice. Today, there’s a good chance that savvy collectors and museums may be increasingly eyeing the same pieces. The Marjorie Merriweather Post brooch, with its massive velvety green emerald in the center, was “a breakthrough piece for us,” says Yvonne Markowitz, the first Rita J. Kaplan and Susan B. Kaplan Curator of Jewelry at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston. She notes that its acquisition marked a shift for the museum world, in that the absolute best in terms of stones, workmanship and provenance was now being sought by top museums, not just wealthy collectors.

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Markowitz notes that she has seen an increased interest in stones over the last ten years, especially since the economic downturn. “Always in hard economic times people have looked at precious metals and stones as a form of portable wealth,” she says. Since Markowitz, a noted Egyptologist who has been at the MFA over two decades, was named one of the nation’s first full-time jewelry curators in 2006, she’s seen jewelry increasingly shed its association with fine craft and become a focal point for exhibitions. Indeed, the MFA has led the way, with spectacular exhibits, a permanent collection that has grown to 13,000+ pieces and a dedicated gallery space for jewelry. Markowitz, indeed, gets to play in a pretty big jewelry box…all day, every day…and she loves it. The increasing interest in celebrity jewelry and a glittering string of blockbuster auctions since the late 20th century, too, have brought a lot of attention to jewelry, both “real” and “faux.” Markowitz pointed out that when Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis’ faux pearl necklace brought six figures at auction several years ago, heads turned. It meant faux was fine if it was designed well and had the right provenance. And indeed, plenty of collectors today seek the very best costume jewelry, particularly marked pieces. At the MFA, there are pieces from 6000 B.C., and there are some pieces of costume jewelry from 1950s Rhode Island. Markowitz points out that in 2014, the MFA will feature an exhibit of jewelry from Hollywood, including some noted items of costume jewelry in addition to glamorous jewels worn by the era’s famed starlets in the 1930s and ‘40s.

Markowitz’ background in Egyptian art, known for its range of jeweled objects, has also meant that the MFA now regularly integrates the jewelry of a period into complementary exhibits. For instance furniture, glass, and jewelry may provide context to exhibits that in the past may have just been composed of paintings. Markowitz points out that the noted sculptor Alexander Calder, for instance, also produced influential studio jewelry. “You can see in a way that his jewelry is sculpture in miniature,” she says. “I always encourage collectors to learn as much as they can,” says Markowitz. “It will only enhance their collection and they’ll also make better choices.” She adds that learning more about the people or culture who made a piece of jewelry, and more about the period in general, leads to a greater understanding. “I think museums are good places to go to really look at fine examples from different periods,” she says, adding that the education is there, whether in museums or jewelry publications. Next summer, an extraordinary exhibition of ancient Nubian jewelry will open at the MFA Boston, and Markowitz has been combing through thousands of glass-plate negatives of early excavations and has also been hard at work on a book that will accompany the exhibition. Since Harvard University and the MFA worked together in the early 20th century on some of the first excavations of this region of ancient Sudan, there’s a wealth of material. Plus it’s a topic close to her heart – her pulse quickens when she sees ancient Nubian jewelry. “A collector who is thoughtful and careful is going to create a really great collection,” she says. “The more you know about it the more exciting it is, and I think all of that adds to one’s appreciation.”

Photographs © Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.

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Marjorie Merriweather Post brooch of platinum, diamonds and emeralds for Marcus & Co. (American, 1892-1941). Mary Todd Lincoln brooch worn by the First Lady in 1860 (American, 1818-1882) and made of gold, enamel and diamonds. Hathor headed crystal and gold rock pendant from the Nubian, Napatan Period, 743-712 B.C. Brooch by John Paul Cooper (English, 1869-1933) from the Arts and Crafts period in 1908 and beautifully designed with rubies, moonstones, amethysts, and chrysophase. Marsh-Bird Brooch designed by Charles Robert Ashbee (English, 1863-1942). Unusual design is made of gold, silver, enamel, moonstone, topaz and freshwater pearl from the Arts and Crafts period (1901-02).

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Platinum, diamonds, rubies and sapphires ag brooch by Black, Starr and Frost (1917).

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Seaweed brooch of gold and possibly pearl by Paul Lienard (French, about 1908). 33


Calendar of Events

ONGOING

LeCorbusier: An Atlas of Modern Landscapes Through September 23 Museum of Modern Art New York, NY www.moma.org

ONGOING

Cape May Designer Showhouse Through October 31 Cape May, NJ www.capemaymac.org

ONGOING

Phillip Johnson Glass House Preview Through November 30 New Canann, CT www.philipjohnsonglasshouse.org

SEP

6-10

Maison & Objet Show Paris, France www.maison-objet.com

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SEP

Vintage Couture Auction Leslie Hindman Chicago, IL www.lesliehindman.com

12-15

SEP

Scott Antique Markets Atlanta, GA www.scottantiquemarket.com

13-15

SEP

ONGOING 34

Jewels, Gems, and Treasures Through June 1, 2014 Museum of Fine Arts Boston, MA www.mfa.org

DFW Antique Show Dallas, TX www.heritageeventcompany.com


13-17

SEP

Fine Chinese Ceramics and Works of Art Auction New York, NY www.sothebys.com

16-17

SEP

Global Design Forum Victoria and Albert Museum London www.globaldesignforum.com

18-21

SEP

100% Design London Earls Court London www.100percentdesign.co.uk

SEP

20-22

St. Louis Antique Show & Sale St. Louis, MO www.heritageeventcompany.com

SEP

SEP

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American Furniture Auction Christie’s New York, NY www.christies.com

SEP

27-28

SEP

27-28

SEP

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Indy Antique Show Indianapolis, IN www.indyadshow.com

Chicagoland Vintage Clothing, Jewelry and Textile Show & Sale Elgin, IL www.catspajamasproductions.net

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Antiques at Mulford Farm East Hampton, NY www.easthamptonhistory.org

Vintage Clothing & Textile Show Burbank, CA www.caskeylees.com

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Finis KENNETH JAY LANE American costume jewelry designer once noted...

“I can resist anything except temptation.” Here are a few items from Ruby Lane that we find irresistible. 36


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Reader’s Resource

Book Lust Page 8 - 9 Heirloom Modern courtesy of Rizzoli. Page 10 - 11 Cartier: Power of Style courtesy of Flammarion. Page 8 - 9 Fabergé Revealed courtesy of Rizzoli.

Marcia’s Must Haves Page 14 #1 - English Staffordshire 18th century enamel etui from Pia’s Antique Gallery. Item PS111041 - $1,350 Page 15 #2 - Rare Spanish fighting bull from early European carousel from Relic Antiques. Item 1111 - $4,800 #3 - Lucite Coral Reef Scene from Barkus Farm Antiques, Collectibles and Fine Art. Item A4711 - $6,200 #4 - Rare museum quality antique Clichy pair of signed scrambled Millefiori Vases from Barkus Farm Antiques, Collectibles and Fine Art. Item A4436 - $42,000 Page 16 #5 - Cuff bracelet with sapphires and semi-precious stones from Frederick’s Design Studio. Item EJ-480 - $8,500 #6 - Palais Royal Opaline box and cover with miniature from Grand Tour Antiques. Item 358 - $260 #7 - Italian carved Regencé Style giltwood mirror with panels from Pia’s Antique Gallery. Item PS02-09-06-03 - $2,800

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Page 17 #8 - 18th century Japanese 6 panel screen of Chinese Immortals from Atlantiques. Item 022086 - $26,500 #9 - Fabulous vintage collection of cigar bands from Bay Cities Antiques. Item 0081 - $6,000 #10 - Two large 14” Barbotine vases from Timber Hill Antiques. Item VASBARB - $10,900

Collecting Tobi Fairley Interior Design, 5507 Ranch Drive, Little Rock, Arkansas 72223 501-868-9882 | info@tobifairley.com www.tobifairley.com Page 18 - 21 Images courtesy of Tobi Fairley Interior Design.

Design Spotlight Hutton Wilkinson, Tony Duquette Studio, 310-271-4688 www.huttonwilkinson.com Page 22 - 26 Images courtesy of Tony Duquette Studio, Inc. Page 27 Tony Duquette, More is More and Tony Duquette/Hutton Wilkinson Jewelry courtesy of Harry N. Abrams

Artful Adornments Museum of Fine Arts, Boston Boston, Massachusetts 02115 617-267-9300 www.mfa.org


Page 30 - #1 Marjorie Merriweather Post Brooch

Possibly by: Oscar Heyman & Bros. (American, founded in 1912) For: Marcus & Co. (American, 1892–1941) American, late 1920s Platinum, diamond, and emerald *Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. William Francis Warden Fund, Marshall H. Gould Fund, Frank B. Bemis Fund, Mary S. and Edward Jackson Holmes Fund, John H. and Ernestine A. Payne Fund, Otis Norcross Fund, Helen and Alice Colburn Fund, William E. Nickerson Fund, Arthur Tracy Cabot Fund, Edwin E. Jack Fund, Frederick Brown Fund, Elizabeth Marie Paramino Fund in memory of John F. Paramino, Boston Sculptor, Morris and Louise Rosenthal Fund, Harriet Otis Cruft Fund, H.E. Bolles Fund, Seth K. Sweetser Fund, Helen B. Sweeney Fund, Ernest Kahn Fund, Arthur Mason Knapp Fund, John Wheelock Elliot and John Morse Elliot Fund, Susan Cornelia Warren Fund, Mary L. Smith Fund, Samuel Putnam Avery Fund, Alice M. Bartlett Fund, BenjaminPierce Cheney Donation, Frank M. and Mary T.B. Ferrin Fund, and Joyce Arnold Rusoff Fund. *Reproduced with permission. *Photograph © Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.

Page 32 #2 - Mary Todd Lincoln Brooch

Worn by: Mary Todd Lincoln (American, 1818–1882) American, about 1860 Gold, enamel, and diamond *Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. Museum purchase with funds donated by Susan B. Kaplan and by exchange from a Bequest of Maxim Karolik, The Elizabeth Day McCormick Collection, Gift of Mrs. William Reynolds, Gift of Mrs. Alfred Redfield,Gift of Mrs. Samuel Cabot, Gift of Mrs. Oric Bates, Gift of Miss Eleanor Randall, Gift of Miss Eleanor E. Barry, Gift of Mrs. Lorenz E. Ernst, Gift of Miss Penelope B. Noyes from the Estate of Mrs. Winthrop H. Wade, Gift of Mrs. Charles H. Pease, Gift from the Estate of Mary Babcock Alward, Gift of Mrs. George E. Bates, Gift of Miss Helen R. Humpage in memory of William and Winifred Humpage, and Gift in memory of Mary Wade White from her children. *Photograph © Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.

#7 - Seaweed Brooch

Paul Lienard (French, 1849) French, about 1908 Gold and maybe pearl *Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. Gift of Joe and Ruth Sataloff in honor of Susan B. Kaplan. *Photograph © Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.

Finis Page 36 Kenneth Jay Lane Jewelton Statement necklace for Avon from Brenda’s B’Dazzled Vintage Jewelry. Item J9159 - $148 Page 37 #1 Vintage Kenneth Jay Lane turtle bracelet from Robbia Antiques. Item 0000662 - $35 #2 Vintage Kenneth Jay Lane Art Deco style 10 strand pearl necklace from Mi-Kollectibles. Item RL-000648 - $175 #3 Rare Kenneth Jay Lane enamel, pave rhinestone lobster brooch pin from Jen-n-I Vintage Jewels. Item JKG-5082 - $158

#3 - Hathor Headed Crystal Pendant

#4 Kenneth Jay Lane Signature K.J.L. monkey pin from Julie’s Vintage Jewels. Item 2011-1959 - $145

#4 - Brooch

#5 Kenneth Jay Lane bright red enamel, faux pearl and rhinestone clamper bracelet from The More the Merrier: Vintage Jewelry. Item kjl red clamper - $99

Nubian, Napatan Period, reign of Piankhy (Piye), 743–712 B.C. Gold, rock crystal *Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. Harvard University—Boston Museum of Fine Arts Expedition. *Photograph © Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.

John Paul Cooper (English, 1869–1933) English, Arts and Crafts, 1908 Gold (15 kt), ruby, moonstone, pearl, amethyst, and chrysoprase *Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. Gift of Susan B. Kaplan. *Photograph © Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.

#5 - Marshbird Brooch

Designed by: Charles Robert Ashbee (English, 1863–1942) English, Arts and Crafts, 1901–02 Gold, silver, enamel, moonstone, topaz, and freshwater pearl *Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. Museum purchase with funds donated by Susan B. Kaplan, Marshall H. Gould Fund, John H. and Ernestine A. Payne Fund, Linda Fenton,DorothyLee Jones Fund, Penny Vinik, and Adrienne Iselin Gilbert Memorial Fund. *Reproduced with permission. *Photograph © Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.

#6 - Flag Brooch

Black, Starr and Frost (American, 1876–1929) 1917 Platinum, diamonds, rubies, sapphires *Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. Gift of Selina F. Little in memory of Nina Fletcher Little. *Photograph © Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.

#6 Kenneth Jay Lane rhinestone brooch with original bag from The Wright Glitz. Item D-13969 - $89 #7 Kenneth Jay Lane zebra clamper from Crystazzle. Item 2535 - $98 #8 Kenneth Jay Lane vintage black enamel, rhinestone and faux pearl rhino brooch The More the Merrier: Vintage Jewelry. Item KJL rhino - $145

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