Ruby vintage begins here
July 2014
Published by
Table of Contents
6 Thomas Johnson Publisher and Founder
Cathy Whitlock Editor-in-Chief cathy@rubylane.com
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Marcia Sherrill Creative Director
Jeff Shotwell
Imagine It! Media, Inc Art Director
Art Escobedo
Imagine It! Media, Inc Graphic Design/Layout
Palmer Pekarek
Advertising Sales palmer@rubylane.com
Elizabeth Betts Hickman Candace Ord Manroe Courtney Sconza Contributing Writers
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Ruby Lane is the premier online community of over 2,500 individually-owned shops from around the world offering antiques & art, vintage collectibles and jewelry. Š Ruby Lane 2014 | Š Ruby Read 2014 Copyright Notice All written content and photo images are the property of Ruby Lane unless otherwise noted and credited. Kindly do not copy or reuse in print form unless you have written consent.
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42
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Marcia Sherrill
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Travel In Style
Must Haves
Pack Your Suitcase
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California Dreaming
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On Location
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Designer Spotlight
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My Favorite Finds
34
Style Inspiration
40
The Calendar
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Shop Owner Spotlight
44
Finis
Jeffrey Alan Marks
Charles James at the Met
Carleton Varney, Mr. Color
Candy Pratts Price
Global Finds
Upcoming Events
BeJewelled
Time Travel
The
Marcia’s Must Haves
LIST
Ruby Read Brand Advisor and Creative Director, Marcia Sherrill, is both a fashion and interior designer.
A member of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, she sells her accessories and home furnishings lines worldwide. Marcia shares with us her absolute Must Haves from the shops of Ruby Lane.
Vintage Ruby Red Glass Gold Tone Cuff Links
I must own these cool and groovy Mid-Century gold tone cuff links by Swank that feature large deep ruby red colored Czech glass. They may have been intended for a man, but I am in touch with my masculine side.
Vintage Red Lacquer Cinnabar Box See me swoon over this magnificent cinnabar box with its sinuous scalloped edges and detailed design of birds and branches. Carved in a lovely relief, it has a black lacquer interior and the most subtle of geometric designs on the background. Now what wonders can I stash away?
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3 Rare Blown Glass Hatpin Red & Metallic Gold I am obsessing over blown glass and at last count, I have over 200 hatpins in my collection. This stunning lipstick red teardrop shaped hatpin circa 1900 has gilt flourishes and is as modern today as it was over a century ago.
4 Art Deco Red Brass Theater Sconces A pair of enormously scaled red brass theatre sconces from the American Theatre in the Bronx will anchor any room. From 1939 and lovingly maintained, they are pure theatre themselves.
Antique Art Nouveau Red Boudoir Lamp Sconce These Art Nouveau beaded silk lampshades have taunted time and survived to adorn my boudoir. Never used, I can only say, “it’s about time.”
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Travel In Style 8
Don’t leave home without these vintage items designed to make your travel easier and more stylish!
Hermès First Class Travel Kit for Pan Am Airlines
Vintage Gillette Women’s Travel Razor Vintage French Black Leather Travel Trunk
Antique French 18” Travel Case
Antique Travel Valise Suitcase
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California Dreaming 10
JEFFREY
ALAN MARKS Writer Elizabeth B. Hickman talks with interior designer and reality star of Bravo’s Million Dollar Decorators on his work and book, The Meaning of Home. By Elizabeth B. Hickman | Photos by Douglas Friedman
As the founder of noted Santa Monica, California-based interior design firm Jeffrey Alan Marks Inc. (JAM) and a cast member on Bravo TV’s Million Dollar Decorators, Jeffrey Alan Marks embraces luxury projects, but also thinks about why people love their homes. “I strive to create rooms that are beautiful, of course – but far more important to me is that I create spaces that show the personal and unique meaning of home for each person, couple, and family that I work with,” writes Marks in the Introduction to The Meaning of Home (Rizzoli, 2013). “As a native Californian, there’s a certain amount of lightness cruising through my DNA, and a laidback point of view is an intrinsic component of my work.”
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Arranged into five chapters: Breezy, Tailored, Steady, Brave and At Ease, the lush book shows Marks’ own home in Santa Monica in addition to projects in London, Nantucket, Malibu, San Francisco, Los Angeles and Austin, Texas among other locales.
the judicious use of antiques in many homes. Please share a bit of your philosophy toward using antiques in interiors, and what you look for in general when it comes to antiques, and if you have a personal collecting focus.
“My objective in designing is to create a space that makes the inhabiter happy,” writes Marks in his book. “To me, “breeziness” is more of a state of mind than a geographic condition: it’s openness and a quality that makes spaces feel welcome for both owners and guests. One of my mantras is that every room in your home should be used daily – the days of holding your living room hostage for company are over.”
JAM: I always mix antiques with modern or even favorite catalogue pieces. I always tend to go more toward rustic English pieces as I collected in my college years in England. I design for comfort first and foremost. So the furniture I design and the antiques I buy are always spacious and inviting. I don’t believe in uptight chairs and stiff sofas that don’t envelop you. This translates aesthetically as a slightly more relaxed and livable look. It’s the only way to live.
Here, Jeffrey Alan Marks takes time from his hectic schedule to answer five questions for Ruby Read: RR: Everyone loves the climate of California and the easy, casual elegance of so many California homes. What defines and describes “California style” for you? JAM: It’s more about the California ‘lifestyle.’ We spend so much of our time outdoors that I look for things that can live indoors as well as outdoors. You can’t go wrong with a palette of rugged dark tans and sea grass. RR: Your book, The Meaning of Home, shows such a nice breadth of projects and
RR: Are there any antiques and/or 20thcentury pieces that are particularly popular in California? (I’m thinking about how so many items are regional - for instance, 19th century sugar chests in Tennessee, coin silver in Kentucky, hunt boards in Virginia, etc. - these are iconic “types” that work in a lot of different settings - and not always totally traditional settings.) What says “California”? JAM: I love Swedish and Gustavian pieces mixed in together with my own upholstered furniture. The lightness in frame and color suit the California light, airy rooms. I always love Danish Kaare Klint mixed with a John Dickinson plaster table circa 1980. 13
RR: What are your thoughts regarding brass and other golden-hued metals in interiors? JAM: I think brass and gold are back and bigger than ever. Although, use either sparingly and with rich, rustic walnuts. RR: I noticed there is a fun sense of colorful pattern in many of your projects - you are not afraid to use color and pattern and it is so lively! What advice would you give to those who want to incorporate more of this in their homes? Any favorite colors or color combinations? JAM: I tend to use blues and more ‘watery’ colors in decorating, if given my way. I have designed a line of fabric coming out this summer with Kravet, which reflects some of my favorite color palettes. I try to make my projects playful. Design can get very serious and boring very quickly and you have to add a smile to your projects so your houses don’t look like everybody else’s houses. Every house, like every person, needs something that differentiates it. Pillows are a great way to experiment with colors and patterns without making a huge commitment. 14
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On Location 16
Charles James Ball Gowns, 1948 Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph by Cecil Beaton, Beaton / Vogue / Condé Nast Archive. Copyright © Condé Nast
First Floor Special Exhibition Gallery, Muslin and Sofa Alcove Image: © The Metropolitan Museum of Art
CHARLES JAMES: BEYOND FASHION AT THE MET By Courtney Sconza
The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City recently unveiled its newly renovated Costume Institute with an inaugural exhibit highlighting the career of the legendary fashion designer, Charles James. The exhibit, Charles James: Beyond Fashion, explores James’ design process, and showcases approximately 65 of his most notable designs. According to Harold Koda, Curator in Charge of the Costume Institute, James “dreamt that his lifetime of personal creative evolution and the continuous metamorphosis of his designs would be preserved as a study resource for students. In our renovated galleries, we will fulfill his goal
and illuminate his design process as a synthesis of dressmaking, art, math and science.” Often referred to as America’s first couturier, Charles James began his career as a milliner. His garments and gowns were notably sculptural as he translated the process of hat-making into the world of clothing design to become somewhat of a fashion architect. Using the female form as a structural foundation, he became an expert of construction and a master of drapery, and revolutionized the fashion industry in the 1930s - 1950s. 17
Known for using unforgiving fabrics like heavy satin or velvet, James created eveningwear using several different types of materials all in the same color range. He layered and manipulated these fabrics into dramatic forms such as his famous “Clover Leaf ” gown - which indeed looks like a four-leaf clover when viewed from above. He stood out as an innovator in the fashion industry with such ideas as the Pavlovian waistband which expands after a meal, and reimagined designs such as the “Taxi” dress - a zippered dress so easy to wear one can slip it on in the backseat of a taxi. James considered his dresses to be works of art and ignored the schedule of seasons adhered to by all other designers. He was a perfectionist who often worked and reworked the same design several times. These obsessive tendencies, which frequently led to long and often fruitless delays, paired with wild business dealings, ultimately prevented the designer from achieving financial success. James died of pneumonia in 1978, alone and penniless at the Chelsea Hotel in New York City. The Costume Institute exhibit touches on all aspects of James’ life and career and is divided into three sections. The main gallery houses 15 dramatically lit iconic gowns, including the “Clover Leaf ” and “Swan.” The following galleries explore the evolution of his designs in four categories: Spirals & Wraps, Drapes & Folds, Platonic Form, and Anatomical Cut, and will also include materials from his personal as well as design archives. The exhibit will run through August 10, 2014. 18
Ball Gown, 1949-50 Red silk velvet, red silk satin, white cotton organdy Photo: © The Metropolitan Museum of Art, by Karin Willis
“Clover Leaf ” Evening Dress, 1953 White silk satin, white silk faille, black silk-rayon velvet Photo: © The Metropolitan Museum of Art, by Karin Willis
“Taxi” Dress, ca. 1932 Black wool ribbed knit Photo: © The Metropolitan Museum of Art, by Karin Willis
For more information, please visit: www.metmuseum.org 19
Designer Spotlight 20
Carleton Varney in The Greenbrier’s Victoria Writing Room. Photo Credit: Mike Wyatt
CARLETON VARNEY MR. COLOR BY CATHY WHITLOCK
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Considered one of America’s best-known and most accomplished interior designers, Carleton Varney has decorated homes, businesses and resorts all over the world. As president and owner of Dorothy Draper & Co. Inc., one of the oldest design institutions (65 plus years and counting) and named after his mentor and legendary founder of the company, the versatile designer’s work also includes yacht, cruise ship and private plane interiors, product lines (think china, fabrics, wallpaper and furniture), numerous interior design books and two novels, and a weekly column in the Palm Beach Daily News. And if that is not enough, the seventy-five-year-old designer still finds time to tape design segments for CBN’s 700 Club network, oversee an online store on Carletonvarney.com and run the Dorothy Draper & Co. School of Decorating.
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While his penchant for bright, bold, and brilliant interiors earned him the name “Mr. Color,” perhaps Varney’s work on Draper’s project at the Greenbrier Hotel remains one of his most famous. Nestled in the hills of the majestic Allegheny Mountains in West Virginia’s small town of White Sulpher Springs, the award-winning Greenbrier is one of America’s greatest and most beloved resorts. Distinguished guests have included everyone from the Vanderbilts and Rockefellers to Presidents (26 to be exact), royalty (the Duke of Windsor and his wife Wallis Simpson and Prince Rainer and Princess Grace of Monaco) and Hollywood luminaries since its inception in 1858. The 10,000 acre property served as a vacation spot for Northerners and Southerners alike during post-Civil War days, housed an underground bunker that served as an emergency shelter for Congress during the Cold War and served as an army hospital during World War II.
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Photo: Courtesy of The Greenbrier
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A bold use of color and florals are characteristic of the “Draper Touch.� Photo Credit: Michael Arnaud
The State Street suite features a painting of guest Princess Grace of Monaco. Photo Credit: Michael Arnaud 25
Legendary doyenne Dorothy Draper was hired to renovate the resort in 1948, placing her stamp of lavish color, oversized floral patterns and penchant for the Baroque style in the resort’s one-ofa-kind guestrooms, suites and cottages. Her goal was to make the resort “feel like a large country house where everything has been provided for the comfort, pleasure, convenience and satisfaction of the beauty-conscious.” 710 guest rooms and 33 suites are filled with Chinese Chippendale, large cabbage rose chintzes and an explosive use of unexpected color combinations. Upon her retirement in the 1960s, Varney has been the resident curator and keeper of the flame, ever mindful of the “Draper Touch.”
Photo Credit: Michael Arnaud
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In 2009, Varney renovated the Greenbrier from top to bottom with Draper’s original design scheme of bold aqua, yellow and pink hues and Mid-Century modern furnishings. “We keep it alive by the spirit of color - black and white checkerboard, sky blue ceilings and wide striped wallpapers,” he notes. “Hotels can’t be categorized, and the guest rooms at the Greenbrier are one-of-a-kind. We make sure no two rooms are alike. It’s all about elegance.” And Varney should know as he has placed his own “Varney Touch” on the interiors of The Breakers, Brazilian Court and The Colony in Palm Beach, Manhattan’s Waldorf Towers and The Grand Hotel on Michigan’s Mackinac Island – just to name a few.
Grand staircase to the Presidential Suite. Photo Credit: Michael Arnaud
Photo: Courtesy of The Greenbrier
Photo: Courtesy of The Greenbrier
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With its championship golf courses, a world-class mineral spa, 40 designer boutiques, and 103,000 square-foot casino and entertainment venue, the five-star resort offers something for everyone. Dubbed “Monte Carlo meets Gone with the Wind,” the recently renovated casino is underground and with its southern influence, unlike any gaming experience found in Las Vegas or the original Monte Carlo. Varney purchased the original Gone With the Wind chandelier that adorns the entrance hall (fans will recognize it from the Twelve Oaks plantation) from his friend and actress Debbie Reynolds’ collection of movie memorabilia. The Twelve Oaks lounge also pays homage to the film and was updated with plaid carpet and tufted green bar panels.
Photos: Courtesy of The Greenbrier
For more on The Greenbrier, visit the resort’s website.
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EYE CANDY with Candy Pratts Price Like a cat with nine lives, the career of Candy Pratts Price reaches retail, fashion, film, television and magazines. Her impressive resume includes Fashion Director at Harper’s Bazaar, Accessories Director at Vogue, Creative Director at Ralph Lauren and Executive Style Director at Style. com (just to name a few), and clearly proves style and taste is in Candy’s DNA. We are thrilled to have her select a few favorite finds from the shops of Ruby Lane.
Photo by: Mario Testino
My Favorite Finds
RUBY LANE
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Art Deco Upholstered Armchair This handsome and rare pair of Deco chairs (single shown) dressed in whimsical black and white stripes could adorn the most contemporary of interiors or simply stand sentinel over a period room. Did Émile-Jacques Ruhlmann just call from beyond the grave asking for their return?
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Vintage Black Velvet Evening Dress This simple late 1950’s vintage black cotton velvet evening or cocktail dress features a flirty sleeveless silhouette with double shoulder straps. Its fitted bodice is gathered at the bust above a wide waist-sash shirred at each side of the flowing skirt. This is just the kind of LBD that made New York open its welcoming arms to Holly Golightly a scant year later.
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Elusive Elizabeth Arden Figural Masque Small wonder this vintage Elizabeth Arden figural mask powder compact was created by Rubenstein’s archrival in the roaring cosmetics wars. And that it dates to the time of Truman Capote’s famed Black and White Ball is surely no coincidence either as tout New York was dazzled by the author’s involvement with the grand dames of New York society, famously coined the “swans.”
1950’s Brocade Shoes These brocade evening pumps from Saks Fifth Avenue are composed of an exceptional black satin ground fabric with gold metallic threads and black faceted crystals. Appearing straight out of the 19th century Aesthetic Era, they are numbered and sized in pencil. To wear or to admire? That is the question.
Vintage Elizabeth Taylo
Another glamour puss, Dame shimmering fish clip earrings for A the diamonds she received from definitely be called a “stage pre 32
Compact By Tiffany & Co. What self-respecting woman of the 1940s would be without her 14-karat gold Tiffany compact? With the heft of a small brick, this exquisitely worked compact in an elaborate quilted design with a channel-set push piece was a work of art oh-so-subtly removed table side from its suede pouch.
Vintage Faux Jade Art Glass Bracelet An over-the-top bracelet with faux jade glass and amber rhinestones, this ornate domed confection begs to be noticed. Lion head figurals on either side of the opening affix the safety chain. Dating to the 1940s or 50s, this statement piece roars with style.
or Sea Shimmer Fish Earrings
e Elizabeth Taylor designed these Avon in the 1990’s. While no match for m Richard Burton, they have what can esence.” 33
Style Inspiration
GLOBAL FINDS
FRANCE
Whether it’s Rococo, Napoleanic, Art Noveau or French country, there is a certain je ne sais quoi about French design. Bring the rich history of France home with a few of these finds from our shops.
Early 20th C. French Faience Tureen & Underplate 4 Antique French Provincial Dining Chairs
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19th c. French Louis XV Style Walnut Armoire
French Aubusson Tapestry
Antique French Louis XIV Desk or Table Early 18th Century
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ITALY
Living la dolce vita can translate into rustic Tuscan style, old world Mediterranean, cool contemporary or simply Italian country. Whatever your tastes, add a few of these items for instant Italian chic.
Murano Italy Blue Ribbon Glass Hankerchief Vase
Italian Alabaster Bust of David on Marble C. 1900-1940
Mid-Century Weiman Desk Italian Marble Top
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Italian Paint and Parcel Gilt Demilune Neoclassical Console Table
Mid-Century Painted Italian Armchairs Italian Salviati Polka Dot Stoppered Glass Bottle
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ENGLAND
The grandeur of the English house – whether it’s a stately country manor or a simple cottage – has long held a fascination and influence in interior design. With its period antiques, cozy chintzes and decorative items that denote a life well-lived, English Style is here to stay.
Victorian English Mahogany Tea Caddy
Pair of English Staffordshire White Spill Sheep Vases
Vintage Corner Curio Display China Cabinet
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English Victorian Carved Mahogany petite Ladies Chair
English Ironstone Transferware Pitcher
English Mahogany Oval Tray Table with Satinwood Marquetry
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Calendar of Events 40
ONGOING
Masterpiece London Ends July 2, 2014 London, England www.masterpiecefair.com
ONGOING
Holiday House Hampton’s Through August 10, 2014 Sag Harbor, Long Island www.holidayhousehamptons.com
ONGOING
Hampton Designer Showhouse Through September 1, 2014 Southampton, Long Island www.hamptondesignershowhouse.com
ONGOING
2014 Coastal Living Show House Through August 3, 2014 Coronado, CA www.coastalliving.com
ONGOING
ONGOING
Charles James: Beyond Fashion Through August 10, 2014 Metropolitan Museum of Art New York, NY www.metmuseum.org
Dream Home 2014 Through December 7, 2014 The Merchandise Mart Chicago, IL www.merchandisemartdesigncenter.com
ONGOING
Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty Through July 19, 2015 Victoria and Albert Museum London, England www.vam.ac.uk
July
4-6
West Palm Beach Antiques Festival West Palm Beach, FL www.wpbaf.com
July
8-13
Brimfield Antique Show Brimfield, MA www.brimfieldshow.com
July
10-13
Art Santa Fe Santa Fe, NM www.artsantafe.com
July
19-20
Elegant Depression Glass Show and Sale Nashville, TN www.fostoria-tennessee.com
July
25-27
World Wide Antique and Vintage Show Denver, CO www.findyourantique.com 41
Shop Owner Spotlight 42
BEJEWELLED Glimpse into the glittery Ruby Lane shop, BeJewelled, as shop owner Clarisse Shechter finds something special in every era of jewelry!
When did you first fall in love with jewelry? My love affair with jewelry started at a very young age. My first “collection” was rocks. After finding an iridescent rock in a field, the collecting began. The rocks led to gemstones and ultimately, jewelry. As a student in college, I studied Art and took a course in jewelry making and design. Oops, that cemented it and I was hooked. I created a line of jewelry in silver and gold using lots of precious and semi-precious stones and beads. I worked for 20+ years making jewelry until it affected my health adversely and I had to change careers. My personal taste always went toward vintage and antique, so with my knowledge I began buying and selling jewelry from costume to fine.
What is one tip or piece of advice you would give to buyers of vintage jewelry? To collectors of vintage jewelry my advice is: buy what you love. Value doesn’t matter to me, I like what speaks to me…and there is a lot of talking going on! My other piece of advice is: don’t pass on something you are really drawn to. I have never regretted anything I bought, my only regrets are the things I didn’t buy. What are the 5 things in life that you couldn’t live without? Things I can’t or don’t want to live without are my family and friends, my cats, my gardens, good food and sunshine. I love my material possessions, but the things that really sustain me come from my relationships and nature.
Art Deco Bakelite Oranges Pin Celluloid Chain Vintage 14k Jade Pendant & Rope Chain
14k Revolving Graduated Circles Sculptural Earrings
Art Deco Frosted Glass Bead Choker Necklace
Georg Jensen Sterling Bracelet
What is the most unusual item you’ve ever found? Amongst the most unusual pieces I have found was an Edwardian double-sided fob ornament. Under domed glass was a picture on both sides made of feathers. A colorful parrot on one and a vibrant peacock on the other. The birds were on luminous mother of pearl, and the tree branch details were painted. Both sides were signed by the artist. A very lucky customer on Ruby Lane purchased the piece. Which item in your collection could you never part with? The pieces I am most attached to are ones that I inherited from my mother. I have a fabulous 14-karat gold retro watch given to her by my father in the 1940s. Though I never wear it, it will remain with me until I pass it on to my daughter. Another piece that I do wear, every day, is a Georg Jensen sterling bracelet with an industrial design.
Quartz Crystal Cluster 18k Rose Gold Ring
What do you love most about vintage jewelry? Jewelry is such a personal expression. As a Taurus, my ruling planet is Venus - this planet asks us to appreciate the exquisite nature of things…jewelry is on the top of my list! I love the variety of styles and materials used and how personal adornment makes us feel. Antique and vintage jewelry has so much character and history that I find captivating. What is your favorite/most inspiring time period for jewelry? I can’t say that I have a favorite time period. I have an appreciation for each one from ancient to retro. Every style has such unique qualities and I love them all. 43
Finis Step back in time with these vintage mod frocks! 1970’s Psychedelic Floral Print Dress
1960’s Mardi Gras Floral Burnout Velvet Dress
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1970’s Merry Finn Black and White Dress
1970’s Hand Embroidered Gown
1970’s Knit Dress With Crochet Bodice
1960’s Mod Tweed Shift Dress 45