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THE INUIT PROJECT

CONTENTS

H E I N U I T

project overview

the process ...

research

academic practice

sketchbook insight visual communications

final collection

visual communications

experimenting techniques textiles

final design

creating the skirt

final design

visual communications/textiles

pattern cutting + garment making

brand + logo CAD

final garment

For A2 we were given the task to base our project on a chosen culture. I have chosen the Inuit culture and have spent my time researching into there way of life and their culture This magazine will showcase not only my research but how this has inspired my work in my fashion BTEC. The final outcome for this project is a skirt - this magazine will show the process through designs, textiles and pattern cutting lessons i have taken to produce my final garment.

overview.

ACADEMICPRACTICE

Firstlytheprojectisbeganbyresearchingintomy chosenculture,Iusedtheinternet,readsome booksandalsowatchedthedocumentary‘the lastice’tocompileallofmyknowledgeofthe Inuitculture

VISUALCOMMUNICATIONS

Visualcommunicationsiswhereallofthe designingisdone-hereIcreatedmyfinal collectionof20pieces Thisalsoinvolvedresearch intofashionillustratorsanddiscoveringmystyle asanillustrator

TEXTILES

IntextilesIworkedonsamplingdifferent techniquesinordertodecideonwhichtouseon thefinalskirt Myfinalpiecewasthenembellished intextilestocreatethefinalproductinwhichI designedinvisualcommunications

PATTERNCUTTING+ GARMENTMAKING

Oneofthefinalstepsfor thisprojectwastoconstruct theskirt-thiswasalldoneduringpatterncuttingand garmentmaking Thisinvolvedcreatingapattern, findingthemostresourcefulandsustainablewaytocut outthepiecesfromthe2mofcalicowewerechallenged tomakeourskirtwithandthenobviouslyconstructing.

THEDESIGNPROCESS

DuringthislessonIresearchedintothebrand H&Mandhowourcollectionofskirtswouldfitinto therebrand,throughsustainability,trendsand alsoprice.HereIsalsotimetoworkontechnical drawingsandfashionflats.

CAD

Thefinalsteptothisprojectwascreatingalogo formybrand-thiswasalldoneduringCADwhere Ialsocreatedadigitalfashionflatofmyfinalskirt.

T

H E P R O C E S S

WHAT IS CULTURE?

Culturereferstothesharedbeliefs,valuesandpracticesofaparticular groupofpeople.Cultureincludeseverythingfromlanguageandreligion tofoodandfashion.ForthisprojectIhavechosentoinvestigatetheInuit culture-IaminterestedinthiscultureaswithinthisprojectIwillresearch andlearnaboutacompletelydifferentwayoflifetomyown.AnInuitIs amemberoftheindigenouspeopleofnorthernCanadaandpartsof GreenlandandAlaska.IfeeltheInuitareagoodexampleofhowone's environmentimpactsandmouldsacultureastheirentireliferevolves aroundsurvivinginharshclimatesandusingtheirsurroundingsto survive–throughthistheyhavefoundthemselvesacommunityof traditionsandbeliefs

research.

INUIT ART

InuitfromtheCanadianArcticuselocalrawmaterialssuchasstone,bone,ivory,muskoxhornsandcaribou antlers,whichtheyfindintheirimmediateenvironment.Thus,Inuitsculptureoffersawidevarietyofstyles, eachtypicaltotheregionitisfrom.

Galeriebrousseauartinuit-agalleryspecialisinginkeepingtheInuitculturealive

CLOTHING

TraditionalInuitclothingisacomplexsystemofcold-weathergarmentshistoricallymadefromanimalskin andfurThecreationanduseofskinclothingwasstronglyintertwinedwithInuitreligiousbeliefs.The appearanceofindividualgarmentsvariedaccordingtogenderrolesandseasonalneeds,aswellasthe specificdresscustomsofeachtribeorgroup.TheInuitdecoratedtheirclothingwithfringes,pendants,and insetsofcontrastingcolors,andlateradoptedtechniquessuchasbeadworkwhentrademadenew materialsavailable

Thetraditionalparkacoatoriginatedfromtheinuit-theuseofanimalskinandfurmassivelyinspiredmeduring thisentireproject

tattoos

InuittattoosthroughouttheNorthregionhistoricallyweremadebywomen,forwomen.Receivingtattoos wasaceremonialriteofpassagethatmarkedimportanteventsinawoman’slife,suchasthetransition fromgirlhoodtowomanhood,orthebirthofchild Photostakenfroman‘ancestralmemory’inscribedinskinarticleintheNewYorkTimes-speakingonwomen

i s u a l

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visual communications is where all of the designing for the final collection happens - this includes research on illustrators and clothes in general.

c o m m u n i c a t i o n s

I N A L C O L L E C T I O N

EXPERIMENTING TECHNIQUES.textiles

hand embroidery

Forthefirstsampleidecidedtodoahandembroiderypieceof thispaintingofatraditionalInuitwoman.Handembroideryis definitelyoneoftheeasiertechniquestolearnifkeptsimple howeveritcangetcomplicatedthroughdifferentstitchstyles anddetails I keptthissamplequitesimpleasifeltthisworked wellacrosstheentireproject Forthisiididastraightrunning stitchfortheentiredesign,ensuringIeitheraddedortook awaythreadforthepartswhichrequiredmore detaileg thefaceandhands Forthissampleto flowwellwiththerestofthesamplesandthe wholeprojectichosetokeepitonun-diedcalico andusedadarkbrownthread,Ifelttheseshades complimentednotonlyeachotherwellbutalso keptalongthelinesofthecolourpalettenicely. Doingthissamplestrengthenedmyskillsin embroideryandoverallireallylikehowthis sampleturnedoutasitisneatandaccurateto thereferencephoto-italsoalignswellwiththe wholeproject

machine embroidery

Thenextsampleisamachineembroideredpieceofagaina traditionalInuitwomanthistimecoveredintheresignature inktattoos.Machineembroideryisoneofmyfavourite techniquesasireallyliketheeffectitgives,thesample looksnaturalandalmostsketchy Thisisn’tactuallytheonly machineembroideredsampleididofthisreferencephoto, thefirstitriedwasoncalicowithblackthreadandthe secondwasonblackmaterialwithwhitethread Intheendi choseblackcalicobutinsteadwithaneutral,beigethread -ifeltthisworkedalotbetterwiththerestof thesamplesandwaslessharshthantheothers thereforeflowedbetterandmorecohesivewith thecolourpalette.Overall,iamverypleased withthefinalsampleasitisveryaccurateand amalsogladimadethedecisiontoswitchthe calicoandthreadasitmatchesalotbetter

Forthenextsampleichosetousethebatiktechnique,this isaskillthatcanbereallyhardtogetrightandalthough thereafewspotsofwax,ithinkistilldidagoodjobandit doesn’ttakeawayfromthedetailofthisdesign.The referencephotoshowsthetraditionalinktattoosofthe Inuitandirecreatedthisinbatikform.Batikconsistsof usinghotwaxontofabricandthenoncedry,paintingyour chosendie overthetop.Thewaxworksasaresist andthereforethedyedoesnotstain thosespecificareas.Ireallylikethe effectofthisandwouldagreeitworks perfectlywithmytheme,ifeelitlooks verynaturalwhichalignsperfectlywith theInuitculture Originallyiwasgoing todothisdesigninmachine embroideryformyfinalgarmentbut insteadswitchedtobatikforthe reasonofthenaturallookandwould agreeimadetherightdecision.

batik applique

Thefinalsampleisapplique,thisconsistsoflayersof differentfabricironedtogetherintherespecifiedshapes usinginterfacingandthenmachineembroideredoverthe toptoaddanyextrasmalldetails.Thereferencephotofor thisisadrumusedbytheInuitduringcelebrations,itshows awhalewhichisoneoftheworshipedanimalsintheInuit cultureasitbringsmanybenefitstothem,fromfoodto clothesandalsojewellery.Thisismyfavouritesampleon theboardasiwouldagreeicouldn’tofmadeitanymore accuratetothereferencephoto.The coloursmatchwelltomycolour paletteandIalsoenjoythepopofred itaddstotheboardwithoutlooking toooutofplace.Doingthispiecehas definitelybuiltmyconfidenceonthis techniqueasiwasnevertookeenon itbefore.

thedesign

FINAL GARMENT DETAILS

S K I R T C R E A T I N G T H E

designing

For the fina garment we were chalenged to create a skirt out of calico inspired by our chosen culture - the design for my mine is a mini wrap skirt which has a faux fur trim, a batik design inspired by the traditional nuit tattoos and finaly leather strips which help to tie the skirt together, i chose this over a zip/button as i fee the leather ties is more authentic to the nuit cuture.

pattern making textiles

To begin the process of making my skirt and any garment in fact, i had to make the pattern first. The pattern for a wrap skirt is very simple as it consists of only 2 pieces, the back pane and the left and right front panes (these are the exact same so can be done as one piece). After figuring out al of my measurements i simpy added on the seam alowance and began cutting out of my caico 3

Aftercreatingmypatternandcuttingitoutof thecaicousualyyoucangoaheadand constructyourgarment-howeverforthispiece ihadtobatikmyfabricfirsttoensurethelnes stayedstraightandprecise Ichosetousebatik aftercomletetingmytextiessamplesas felt thiscommunicatedmycuturethebest After drawingmydesignwiththehotwax,idyed usingblackdye etitdryand ronedoutthe wax:thiswastoensuretherewasnowax eft inthefabricthatcouldcausecomplcationswhen itcametoconstruction

The next step is construction, i firstly began attaching the 2 side panels to the back panel and hemmed the top My skrt doesn‘t require hemming anywhere ese as this wil be finished with a faux fur trim When sewing my skirt i ensured the thread matched the dark grey shade my skirt is to create a cean and seamless ook I also sewed in darts around the top as the wrap skirt stye does not have a waistband - the darts hep to fit to my waist and give it some shape.

4 5 construction

final touches

The fnal step for my skirt is adding the fur trim and eather ties To ensure a seamess attachment i began stitching the fur on and then turning the raw hem in on the front and stitching again, this was a bit tedious but after triaing a few ways to attach ths i decided this gave the best end result For the leather ties i smpy stitched the eather strips onto the edge of the panels, ensured they were at the correct length and then created a smal hoe in which one set can get fed through.

technical drawing created using Adobe illustrator in CAD

TECHNICAL DRAWINGS ARE REALLY IMPORTANT IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY AS THEY ARE USED IN ALL ASPECTS WHEN IT COMES TO DESIGN. THEY ARE USED MAINLY WHEN CREATING FASHION FLATS FOR SUPPLIERS - THEY MUST BE TECHNICAL SO THAT THERE IS NO COMPLICATIONS WHEN IT COMES TO THE FINAL GARMENT

introduction to technical skills

technical flats are usually done digitally asit iseasier to send through tothe suppliers thisway However,we were challenged tocreate a collectionof fashion flat skirts/trousers handdrawn Thishelped to understand the basicsof different stylesof skirts and details

This sketchbook notonly showcases technicalfashionflats but also research into ourtarget customer, H&M Ilooked into currenttrends andalso there pledgeto sustainable fashion This sketchbook presents my abilityto have professional standardwork and also use industrylangueage and terminolo

MY LOGO

When creating a logo for my brand i knew i wanted something simple and clean. Throughout my entire project i would hope you can tell this is how i like to present my work, very in order and structured, i wanted to reflect this in my brands logo The name comes from the first half of my surname and the word archives, i just simply like the meaning of something that is kept forever and brought back as an ‘archived’ piece I think it also has a meaning of a journey and process of hard work, which i hope reflects well onto this project

final

garment

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