Canadian Jeweller Magazine - August 2013 by Rive Gauche Media

Mag.

canadian jewelLer The independent voice for the industry since 1879

AUGUST 2013

044. A DAZZLING AFFAIR A HANDY GUIDE TO CANADIAN JEWELLERY EXPOS EDMONTON 090. PLAYING FAIR THE VISION AND PASSION OF FAIR TRADE JEWELLERY 112. WHAT’S IN STORE DESIGN TRENDS AND VISUAL MERCHANDISING TIPS

EN FRANÇAIS

074. LE LUXE A DROIT DE CITÉ

RACHEL BERDUGO

LIKE A ROCK

OSHAWA JEWELLERY WAS FOUNDED THROUGH SHEER DETERMINATION 084.

SCAN ME TO GO TO OUR WEBSITE

The Official Magazine of the Canadian Jewellery Tradeshows

P u b l i c at i o n s M a i l 4 0 6 7 8 0 0 0

6 0 B l o o r S t r e e t W e s t S u i t e 1 1 0 6 , T o r o n t o ON , M 4 W 3 B 8

countdown to our

$25

135thAnniversary

24 Gold Group Ltd. Gold Dealer & Refining Company

SALES REPRESENTATIVES WANTED

BELLE ROSE

www.tresorparis.ca 5623 Casgrain Ave Montreal QC H2T 1Y1 enquiries: hugh@tresorparis.ca | tel: 514-612-0089 | fax: 513-612-0098 facebook.com/TresorParis |

twitter.com/tresorparis

A REVOLUTIONARY family jewellery collection, projected to surpass all expectations. Bcouture brings you reflections of love with contemporary designs... EVERYDAY KEEPSAKE. Made by women for women. Follow the buzz by visiting us at the Montreal Expo and Miami JIS Show. 416-367-3236 | Bcouture.ca

Ad produced by Saro Creative

E V E R Y D AY SEXY E V ERYDAY KEEPSAKE

SKY GROUP

(418) 841-0763 . Benoit.LotusCanada@gmail.com . 3291 chemin Royal . G1E 1V8 . Qc . Canada

Natural collection

New

Give to your valued customers the new BFly higher-end collection in 14K gold and genuine stones. This collection emphases our beautiful butterﬂy- and ﬂower-shaped stones with delicate bezel settings in gold. You will be impressed by the comfort, the safety and the affordable price of this jewellery line. · Screw back earrings Made in Canada

JCK Toronto, Booth #221-320 WCJE, Booth #121 Expo Prestige, Booth #410

BFLY is proud to announce his major development inside the kids books & accessories in 2014 The Magic of an Inspiration AK

IN N A & NIKO

Bﬂy.ca Be ready for the brand expansion!

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27 Queen St, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6 T: 416.955.9415 • Toll Free: 800.216.0899 • F: 416.955.9621 www.midasjewelryinc.ca • Email: info@midasjewelryinc.ca Made in Canada with Canadian gold

For details, write #104 on Free Info Page, page 136

The Ashley Anne Collection

For details, write #104 on Free Info Page, page 136

Whether your needs are simple or elaborate, let Midas be your Source for select Wedding Bands. We specialize in custom orders, small or large, and are positioned to increase your sales margins. At Midas, we manufacture in all precious metals and also offer:

New 19K Extreme White© • Displays • Marketing Kits • Buy-back Programs Incentive Programs • Co-op Advertising

INTRODUCING BRIDAL STYLES WITH SMALLER CENTER STONES

You’ve made the request and we’re proud to introduce our new rendition of the popular 3C: Choose/Change/Create™ styles featuring smaller centers. These pieces are completely customizable through CounterSketch® Studio. Call 800-877-7777 ext. 3648 or visit stuller.com.

Visit us at these trade shows: Western Canadian Jewellery Expo, August 16-18, Booths 121, 123 and 220 Expo Prestige, August 25-27, Booths 311 and 315

From a vast selection of items online or in our catalogues.

Elements to customize your selection.

One-of-a-kind jewellery with CounterSketch® Studio or CAD.

CANADIAN JEWELLER

Mag. ESTABLISHED 1879

AUGUST 2013 / VOL. 134 / NO. 06

Olivier Felicio

Publisher / olivier@canadianjeweller.com

Lucy Holden Associate / lucy@canadianjeweller.com EstablishEd 1879 January/february 2011 •Publisher vol . 132, no .1

Olivier Felicio Janine Editor-in-Chief Druery | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com Editor / janine@canadianjeweller.com MalcolmPublisher Brown | lucy@rivegauchemedia.com Art Director / mbrown@canadianjeweller.com lucy holden Associate Irina Lytchak Assistant Editor / irina@canadianjeweller.com Carol besler ConsultingEditorial Editor Intern / intern@canadianjeweller.com Marielle Torrefranca

Paul aguirre Associate Editor | paul@rivegauchemedia.com

CANADIAN JEWELLER EDITORIAL BOARD

Production Manager / production@thergmgroup.net scott JordanErin ArtBooth Director | scott@rivegauchemedia.com Connie De Camilli Production/Design Intern / production.intern@gmail.com Elena Viltovskaia Designer | graphics@rivegauchemedia.com Chief Executive Officer / cory@thergmgroup.net Boisselle stacy KarjalaCory Designer | material@rivegauchemedia.com Chief Marketing Officer / zinnia@thergmgroup.net Zinnia Crawford Elizabeth Valiaho Production Coordinator | production@rivegauchemedia.com Melanie Seth

Controller & Operations / finance@thergmgroup.net

Melanie seth Controller & Operations | finance@rivegauchemedia.com Erin Poredos Creative Business Coordinator / erin@thergmgroup.net sunjoyo tanto Web Programmer | sunjoyo@rivegauchemedia.com Erin Poredos Sales Assistant | erin@gorgmgo.com

Haigo Derian L’ORO Jewellery

CONTRIBUTORS Didier Brodbeck, Linda Cahan, Véronique Dubé, Sarah B. Hood, Andrej Kopac, CONtRibUtORs chris Davey, lorraine Depasque, Martin irving, John Lamont, Charles Lewton-Brain, Bonnie Siegler, Todd Wasylyshyn

Gino DeVuono Movado Group of Canada

John lamont, charles lewton-brian, Donna Jean MacKinnon, Duncan parker, lihn pham, Dean sanderson, bonnie siegler.

SALES Lucy Holden

Andrea Hopson

Associate Publisher tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117 AssociAte publisher email lucy@thergmgroup.net tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117 email lucy@rivegauchemedia.com Jeff Yamaguchi Advertising Sales

salEs

Paul Mcfarlane Chanel Canada

lucy holden

Norma Meneguzzi Spall The Results Group

tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122 ADVertisiNGemail sAles jeff@thergmgroup.net tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122 email jeff@rivegauchemedia.com Jason Cawley Advertising Sales (416) 203-7900 ext. 6134 sAles Karolann Cassman ADVertisiNGtel. email jason@thergmgroup.net tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6126

Jeff Yamaguchi

Marco Miserendino Bijouterie Italienne P.M. Inc. Phyllis Richard Jewellers Vigilance Canada Inc.

karolann@gorgmgo.com

publicAtioNPUBLICATION pArtNers CiRCUlatiON CIRCULATION PARTNERS

Beth Saunders Canadian Jewellery Group

345 Kingston road, suite 101 Garth atkinson Garth Atkinson 345 Kingston Road, Suite 101 pickering, ontario, l1V Ontario 1A1 L1V 1A1 Pickering, toll free 1-877-547-2246 toll free 1-877-547-2246 email cj@publicationpartners.com email cj@publicationpartners.com

Sevan Titizian G.C. International Ltd.

TheRGMGroup. Toronto

Moniruz Zaman The Bullion Mart Inc.

60 bloor street 60 West, Bloorsuite Street1106 West, Suite 1106, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3B8 head Office Head Office tel. M4W (416) 203-7900 fax (416) 703-6392 toronto, ontario, 3b8 tel . (416) 203-7900 fax (416) 703-6392 2348 Lucerne, Suite 230, Mont-Royal, Quebec H3R 2J8 Montreal Office tel. (514) 381-5196 fax (514) 381-6223 West, suite 1507 Montreal Office 555 chabanel street toll free 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117 Montreal, Quebec, h2N 2J2 Paris

tel .

(514) 381-5196 fax (514) 381-6223 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117

toll free

S U B S C R I P T I O N R AT E S Canada — one year, $185; two years, $175; three years $160. United States — one year, US$205. Foreign — one year US$205 (Subscriptions include subscription Rates Buyers’ Guide issues.) 8% P.S.T. for Newfoundland, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia residents. Single copies — $25; Buyers’ Guide $40. canada — one year, $185; two years, $175; three years $160. united statesBulk — one us$205. one subscriptions) year us$205 (subscriptions include buyers’ rateyear, (Canada only,Foreign for six or—more — $17.50 per subscription per Guide year. is-

Check our Website for Monthly Specials! Phone 1.800.663.6472 Fax 1.800.316.2999 Email: Karat@Karatgroup.com www.karatimports.com

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email: cj@publicationpartners.com telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735 or send your cover label and new address to canadian Jeweller c/o publication partners, 345 Kingston road, suiteRGM 101, Group. pickering, oN canada l1V 1A1 Published by The Published by

Rive Gauche Media ii inc.

Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume responsibility for the contents of any advertisement; any and all repre-

canada post canadian publications Mail sales product Agreement 40678000. theare publisher notadvertiser assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement all sentations or warranties made in No. such advertising those does of the and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liableand to any and advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the representations or warranties made are those of the advertiser of the publisher.liability the publisher is not liablethe to any advertiser forpublisher’s any misprints in advertising faultin ofsuch the advertising publisher and in such an event the and limitnot of the publisher’s shall not exceed amount of the charge for such not advertising. No portion of this publication may the fault of the publisher and inbe such an event theinlimit publisher’s shall not exceed the amount thepublisher. publisher’s charge forJeweller such advertising. publication reproduced, all orofinthe part, withoutliability the express written permission of of the Canadian magazineNo is portion pleasedof tothis review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration may be reproduced, in all or part, without expressconditions: written permission of the publisher.for canadian magazine(photographs, is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial under the the following all material submitted editorialJeweller consideration illustrations, written text in electronic or consideration hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jewelunder the following conditions:ler all and material submitted editorialpurposes consideration illustrations, text internet, in electronic oretc.) hardwithout copy format) may be of, used canadian its affiliates forfor editorial in any(photographs, media (whether printed, written electronic, disc, the consent orby the paymentJeweller of compensation to, the party providing such and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing suchSte. 1106, Toronto, ON Canada M4W 3B8. material. Please direct submissions to the Editor, Canadian Jeweller. Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West, material. please direct submissions to the editor, canadian. return undeliverable items to rive Gauche Media, 60 bloor street West, ste. 1106, toronto, oN canada M4W 3b8.

CMCA AUDITED Official magazine of JVC

For details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 80

January/February 2011

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CONTENTS.01 / VOL. 134 / NO. 06 CJMag.Departments 25

LETTER FROM THE PRIME MINISTER

EDITOR’S NOTE

PRODUCT SHOWCASE

STAR WATCH Celebrities really turned up the heat this summer in sultry jewellery styles. BY BONNIE SIEGLER

FOR THE RECORD News, trends and events

CJ GALLERY Teeing off with JVC; Cocktails, Canadian-style; Davies collection goes to auction; Simon G. hosts hot soirée; JCK rocks the beach; LeVian holds star-studded event

COMPANY PROFILE Dhiren Shah of Genius Diamond Ltd. says the entrepreneurial spirit is in his DNA. BY SARAH HOOD

108

NEW GENERATION Passing the torch at L'ORO Jewellery, Helmsley's and Prestige & Fancy BY SARAH B. HOOD

120

SHOWCASE/MARKETPLACE

128

STYLE COUNCIL The power of prints

130

LAST WORD Roses are red... BY IRINA LYTCHAK

CJ INTERVIEW Roberto Coin maintains the success of his company by staying involved and pursuing his passion. BY IRINA LYTCHAK

COMPANY PROFILE Movado Group, Inc. has reached an impressive level of international recognition and respect. BY IRINA LYTCHAK

CJ EN FRANÇAIS 67

LES NOUVELLES

LE LUXE A DROIT DE CITÉ PAR DIDIER BRODBECK

DESIGNER PROFILE Ryan Taylor has not only created a unique business, he has spearheaded an ethical supply resource. BY SARAH B. HOOD

A U G U S T 2 0 1 3 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

Cover photograph by Andrej Kopac

www.mi-moneda.com GROUP

1-800-361-4611 Expo Prestige booth 719 & CJ Expos booth 531

1-800-361-4611 Mi Moneda ad_june 2013.indd 1

20-06-13 15:26

CONTENTS.02 / VOL. 134 / NO. 06 CJMag.Features+Columns 44

A DAZZLING AFFAIR: CJ EXPOS EDMONTON The Edmonton Shaw Conference Centre will play host to the “best jewellery show in the West” for three days in August. Canadian Jeweller brings you the highlights

AFTER THE FLOOD When Austen Jewellers was destroyed in the devastating Alberta floods, a jewellery buying group urged its members to lend a hand. The response has been awe-inspiring. BY IRINA LYTCHAK

102

JVC REPORT Fighting Back BY JOHN LAMONT

104

FROM THE BENCH Bench Tips For Jewellers BY CHARLES LEWTON-BRAIN

106

RETAIL WATCH An Uneven Playing Field BY TODD WASYLYSHYN 84 ON THE COVER OSHAWA JEWELLERY: A LOVE STORY Rachel Berdugo’s journey from Israeli kibbutz to Canadian jewellery store has the makings of a great novel: adventure, drama and true grit. But it’s love – for a man, a country and an industry – that is the heart of this story. BY JANINE DRUERY

100

CANADIAN JEWELLER THROUGH THE AGES With Canadian Jeweller's 135th anniversary on the horizon, we take a look back at the magazine over the years. In this issue, we explore the Arts & Crafts Movement and the Roaring Twenties. BY IRINA LYTCHAK & MARIELLE TORREFRANCA

112

100

116

A TIME TO SHINE: EXPO PRESTIGE 2013 The 43rd edition of the Montreal Expo Prestige promises the freshest and most sensational designs from the jewellery, clock and watch industries.

112

A U G U S T 2 0 1 3 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

letter from the prime minster

I am pleased to extend my warmest greetings and congratulations to the readers and publishers of Canadian Jeweller magazine, which next year marks its 135th anniversary. For over a century, your publication has provided designers, manufacturers, and consumers with unique and timely information on the art and craft of fine jewellery, fashion trends, and business developments in Canada and abroad. Canada is not only a leading source of precious metals and gemstones, it is also at the forefront of jewellery design, production, and retail. This milestone offers an opportunity to reflect on the history of your publication and the important role it has played in shaping a forward looking jewellery industry that is proud of its achievements. I would like to commend everyone involved in the production of Canadian Jeweller magazine for your continued commitment to promoting this sector of our country's economy. Please accept my best wishes for a memorable anniversary celebration and for every future success.

The Rt. Hon. Stephen Harper, P.C., M.P. / OTTAWA / 2013

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

A 足足 U G U S T 2 0 1 3 足

editor's note

Tools of the Trade JANINE DRUERY EDITOR

PERHAPS IT IS AN OBVIOUS CORRELATION, but the higher

the temperature gets, the more jewellery trade shows appear on the calendar. Depending on your point of view, these industry events can be great opportunities or necessary evils. But, whether you have started cross-training for the miles you’ll cover at this summer’s events, or are already chewing your nails over your booth’s details, the fact remains that the shows can be a very important part of your business. And, of course, you’ll only get out of them what you put into them. After an amazing (and tiring) excursion to Las Vegas for my first JCK in June, I began to wonder about how the pros approach these events (in the hopes that I could create a better plan of attack for my next show). To this end, I found some handy tips on whizbangtraining.com, designed to help retailers tame the trade show beast. Here are a few of the more pertinent: Go with a plan: Smart retailers go to shows organized, focused, and ready to work the show like a pro. Make sure you review last year’s sales statistics; think about what worked (or didn’t) last year; and decide which areas could be new opportunities.

Take sales and inventory reports with you: Having information at your fingertips projects a very professional appearance. This allows you to work in a more collaborative fashion when discussing terms, discounts and other issues. Plan your time wisely: Decide how much you are going to spend at the show and don’t spend more than you have allocated. You can always buy once you get back to your store. Make a budget and stick to it. Go into as many booths as you can: You never know where that new, fun, super-high margin “fill in the blank” is going to be hiding. Finding new and innovative merchandise is one way to distinguish yourself. Don’t underestimate the effort involved: The physical effort required to work a trade show shouldn’t be minimized. The challenge is to stay strong, comfortable, and organized. Wear comfortable (yet professional) clothing; take a drink with you; bring lots of business cards, carry a notebook and pen, etc. To the above list I would add: Try and have a good time! Look up old friends; meet up with new prospects; take a good client out for a good meal; and (especially if you are going to a show out of town) get a little sightseeing in. Oh, and invest in some good shoes – your feet will thank you!

Make appointments ahead of time: Plan to see your top vendors. Write down what you want to discuss with each (e.g., improved terms, customer service problems from last year, questions about items, packaging concerns).

A U G U S T 2 0 1 3 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

photo by malcolm brown

Get a map of the show floor: Get your map out and plan out all the vendors with whom you want to spend time. Decide how much of the show you want to see each day and work accordingly; don’t get stuck seeing half the show in the last three hours.

contributors

Captivate. Showcase your favorite designs against the exotic backdrop of ostrich-patterned Vienna™ faux leather. With a rich texture and feel, these eye-catching displays draw attention to any design.

R io Gra nde. Recommended by jewelers since 194 4.

LINDA

CAHAN

TODD

WASYLYSHYN

Linda Cahan is an internationally recognized retail visual merchandising expert. She has written several books, teaches visual merchandising at The Art Institute of Portland and gives seminars all over the world. In this issue of Canadian Jeweller, Linda tells jewellery store owners how to make a statement with their stores in "Nine Retail Trends You Need to Know" (page 112).

Our new retail columnist, Todd Wasylyshyn, joined the jewellery business in 1987 as a sales clerk, and has since worked as a gemmologist, insurance specialist, manager and owner. An avid blogger with a lot to say about the world of retailing, Todd discusses the industry's uneven playing in his Retail Watch column on page 106.

SARAH B. HOOD

CHARLES

ANDREJ KOPAC

Our beautiful cover and cover story portraits were shot by Andrej Kopac. His work has appeared in numerous national magazines and international advertising campaigns, as well as in the awards annuals of Applied Arts, Communication Arts and Graphis magazines. In 2008, Andre was named Hasselblad Master in Fashion and Beauty, one of photography’s most coveted awards.

Ostrich Vienna™ Necklace Bust 400-627/B16 See our full selection of Vienna™ displays online and in your Gems & Findings and Display & Packaging catalog.

888.225.6422 riogrande.com

1ZJS_RGAD_CJ_August2013_OstrichDisplay.indd 1

Sarah B. Hood is a Torontobased freelance journalist who explores the culture of fashion, food, urban life in her many books and articles. Her work has been short-listed for the National Magazine Awards and Kenneth R. Wilson Awards. Sarah was busy in this issue, interviewing the fascinating people at Fair Trade Jewellery, L'ORO Jewellery, Helmsley's, Prestige & Fancy and Genius Diamonds.

6/5/13 12:46 PM

LEWTON-BRAIN

Charles Lewton-Brain is a goldsmith, author and educator. He invented fold-forming, a completely new way of working sheet metals, and is the author of several jewellery books including Cheap Thrills in the Tool Shop. In his new "From the Bench" column, Charles shares great tips and tricks for jewellers and goldsmiths. See page 104 to learn how to save money on equipment.

A U G U S T 2 0 1 3 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

BONNIE SIEGLER

If you want to know which celebrity is rocking the hottest looks, ask Bonnie Siegler. The Los Angeles-based scribe has been covering the celebrity circuit for more than a decade. Not only is she a contributor to style mags like InStyle, Redbook and Elle, she has penned two books on celebrity life and entertaining. She reports on the latest from the red carpet on page 40.

Romance

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KIM Canadian Sales Professional: Marcel DuMontet 514-865-7235 or marceldumontet@videotron.ca

product showcase

1. OTTIMO CREATIONS

In celebration of the all-new Pilot Edition Watches, TW Steel is inspiring consumers to “take control” via the Pilot Your Life promotion. Between May and December 2013, consumers have the opportunity win the grand prize of up to $50,000 euros to help fulfill a lifelong ambition. Visit twsteel.com/pilotyourlife for details. 2. CRESCENDO

Personalized to celebrate. Crescendo’s family pendants are available in sterling silver and gold. Retail pricing from $135. For our complete collection and to order online visit crescendojewellery.com 3. STULLER

We want to make doing business with Stuller easier than ever for you. Take advantage of our extended ordering cut-off time of 3:00pm (your

A U G U S T 2 0 1 3 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

local time) and our flat rate shipping special: Any package under five lbs. ships for $29.99 US via FedEx. Visit stuller.com to learn more. 4. SHINY JEWELERS

As seen on The Marilyn Denis Show, Bcouture’s 14K rose gold stackable rings with semi-precious gemstones, shown here with rose quartz, purple amethyst and pink amethyst. *Can be worn individually. 5. MIRAGE CREATIONS

Simple, lightweight, and begging to be shown off, Nova’s Diamond Pierced Flower Bangle comes ready to wear for just about any occasion. Featuring 26 grams of 18K white gold, and almost 3 carats of diamonds the retail price for this bangle is a mere $12,500. Call Nova Diamonds for more information.

product showcase

2 4

1. INDIA HICKS

3. JEWELHOUSE CANADA

The India Hicks Domino Necklace. Like all true heirlooms a complete circle from mother to daughter, the Domino Love Letter named after my own. An elegant 16mm sterling silver circle with a 1/4ct of micro pave diamonds around your personal Love Letter on 16" silver chain with a lobster clasp. A personalized expression of love for that special someone. $795 MSRP (US).

PLATINA 4 is a patented and uniquely innovative combination of four precious metals: Silver, Palladium, Gold and Platinum. PLATINA 4 is an attractive and significantly more affordable alternative to gold and more costly metals, for both the retailer and the customer.

2. CRESCENDO

Care. Quality. Clarity. New for Fall 2013: Diamond Stacking Rings For our complete collection and to order online visit crescendojewellery.com

A U G U S T 2 0 1 3 / 足C 足足 A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

4. LOTUS JEWELLERY

JewelPop Release a New Look Book! The latest look book from JewelPop features 4 jewelry pieces and 23 JewelPops with fun new names like "In Stitches" and "Make Me Smile." Having recently taken a huge leap into the Quebec market, this catalogue will be the first by the company to be translated completely into French.

product showcase

4 3

1. BEST BARGAINS

3. AUGENSTERN DIAMONDS

These kitschy 14kt. Gold genuine green amethyst and pink sapphire Earrings are a bold choice in subtle ice-cream shades because they contain a large centre stone (approximately 15cts of green amethyst) surrounded by 1.6cts of round pink sapphires. Available in other gemstone combinations (Amethyst with yellow sapphire and lemon quartz with blue sapphires) as well. Retail value $950.

Your clients can now be a diamond. Augenstern manufactures diamonds using the carbon from the hair or your clients or from the hair of their dearest loved ones. An Augenstern Hair diamond is the perfect product to commemorate a very special moment in life like a wedding or the arrival of a new baby. Children can seal their bond within an Augenstern Hair Diamond by combining their hair carbon and offer their parents a unique piece of jewellery. Contact us to became an Augenstern Hair Diamond retailer.

2. ATLANTIC ENGRAVING

New from our Passion Noir Collection, gents and ladies matching duo. 10K white gold 6mm comfort fit set with 4 x 0.015 crate and a 14k red gold comfort fit set with 4 x 0.10 crate diamond cut on seamless tubing blanks.

A U G U S T 2 0 1 3 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

4. GOLD STAR JEWELLERY

Innovative. Solitaires. One carat look. One-fifth the price. The TTVA innovative solitaire’s one carat centre stone looks 50 per cent larger than a traditional one carat solitaire and they are 1/5 of the price.

product showcase

2 4

1. JEWELERS MUTUAL INSURANCE COMPANY

3. GIA 4CS APP - RETAILER EDITION FOR IPAD

Pearls of Wisdom jewellery care brochure: Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company offers this free brochure featuring tips to help customers keep their jewellery safe and sparkling. Makes a great leave-behind! It’s also downloadable for websites. For requests, call 800-558-6411 ext. 2118.

GIA is using the latest technology to help educate and engage consumers in a conversation about the 4Cs of diamond quality. Designed to be used at point of sale, the app features video and interactive tools to educate customers about how GIA grades the 4Cs and offers direct access to GIA’s online database of GIA reports.

2. PAJ ELLE

Let it sparkle! Let it shine! Our new "Portal Micro Pave" Collection by Paj Elle Jewelry does just that. This Sterling Silver rhodium plated collection features sleek disc shapes covered in tiny scintillating cubic zirconia in micro pave setting creating maximum brilliance. This collection includes a variety of styles in pendants, earrings, bracelets, rings and of course our signature ruby logo. Affordable luxury at its best. Necklace retail cost $229; earrings - retail cost $219.

A U G U S T 2 0 1 3 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

4. HONG KONG JEWELLERY AND GEM FAIR

The September Hong Kong Jewellery and Gem Fair is a key date in every serious jeweller’s calendar. More than 3,500 exhibitors will take part in the fair, while around 52,000 trade buyers are expected. Save the date and plan your visit now at jewellerynetasia.com.

CONTACT: 1 800 361 4611 INFO@THOMASSABO.CA Poppy Delevingne

ROAD SHOW MONTREAL: W HOTEL ROAD SHOW TORONTO: TRUMP HOTEL SJ EXPOS (EDMONTON): BOOTH #531, HALL B.C. WWW.THOMASSABO.COM

star watch

Rising Temperatures Celebrities really turned up the heat this summer in sultry jewellery styles. by Bonnie Siegler

Shining Dinner Guest The recent White House Correspondents’ Dinner played host to many celebrities. Kate Walsh was there, looking fabulous in Norman Silverman 12.84 carat diamond cluster earrings ($160,000) and a Katerina Maxine 18k white gold ruby and diamond ring ($16.780).

Going for Bold Kate Mara also attended the White House Correspondents’ Dinner, where she enjoyed the festivities with friends Katy Perry and Sophia Bush. But she made a bold statement of her own in Isharya’s Jaisel floral cuff bracelet in blue turquoise.

A U G U S T 2 0 1 3 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

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Beautiful in Beverly Hills Kelly Osbourne attended the 20th annual Race to Erase MS gala in Beverly Hills looking sophisticated and beautiful down to her fingertips in a Demarco 18k white gold cocktail ring with white and brown diamonds ($25,500).

The Brightest of Trekkies Jennifer Morrison certainly brightened up the “Star Trek Into Darkness” premiere in Hollywood wearing Doves 18k yellow gold earrings with white topaz stone ($5755) and a matching Doves 18K yellow gold white topaz stone ring ($3,060).

Off the Cuff Jordana Brewster stood out in a crowd of beauties in a stunning Carrera y Carrera cuff ($8,250) at the Women in Film’s annual cocktail party, held on June 11th at the legendary Beverly Hills Hotel.

A U G U S T 2 0 1 3 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

Movado/Imtech mg003806a Proof 1

MOVADO TC™ ULTRA-THIN CASE DESIGN IN STAINLESS STEEL WITH MODERN BLACK DIAL. MOVADO.COM

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SHAW CONFERENCE CENTRE Friday August 16 / 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. // Saturday August 17 / 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. // Sunday August 18 / 10 a.m. - 4 p.m.

A DAZZLING AFFAIR: CJ EXPOS EDMONTON

CANADIAN JEWELLER

Mag.

OFFICAL SHOW SPONSOR:

The Edmonton Shaw Conference Centre will play host to the “best jewellery show in the West” for three days in August. Canadian Jeweller brings you the highlights...

A U G U S T 2 0 1 3 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

Jewellery professionals from far and wide are

about to descend on beautiful Edmonton, Alberta for a bit of Western hospitality and a whole lot of bling! CJ Expos Edmonton has sold every last booth and promises to be a jam-packed event filled with the newest and most notable jewellery and watches, great networking opportunities, and the best in education. The show, put on by WCJE Edmonton (the best buying show in Canada for the last 35 years) and renamed CJ Expos, is managed by Lilie Ford, with support from owners Geoff and Phil Payne. It will be held at the Shaw Conference Centre, located in the heart of downtown Edmonton and overlooking the beautiful North Saskatchewan River Valley. So, put on a pair of comfortable shoes and gear up to visit 100+ exhibitors, get reacquainted with your colleagues, take in a few seminars, and enjoy exclusive retailer discounts from Friday August 16th to Sunday August 18th. As a proud sponsor of this brilliant event, Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to bring you all of the highlights of the West Coast jewellery event of the year.

DRINK UP!

Each morning from 9:45 a.m. to 11:00 a.m., The Martin Ross Group and Master Design invite all attendees to visit the complimentary coffee and juice bar located in the conference centre foyer near the main CJ Expos registration desk and entrance. Stop by for a cup of freshly brewed Starbucks coffee or a chilled fruit juice. And, when you’ve had enough coffee, The Martin Ross Group and Master Design are offering up complimentary wine sampling on the show floor from 1:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. daily. PMA Canada Ltd. will provide unique wine selections that are sure to appeal to the most discerning palates.

CRACK THE SAFE

Back by popular demand! Stop by the Wingenback Inc. display in the foyer to see if you have the lucky "combination" that will open – and win – the safe. Pick up a combination at the registration desk for your chance to win.

EAT, DRINK AND BE MERRY

To kick the show off in style, Canadian Jeweller magazine and the Canadian Jewellery Group are sponsoring an Opening Night Welcome Gathering for attendees on Friday, August 16th from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. Come network with your peers, while enjoying a complimentary dinner buffet and drinks, at Ruth’s Chris Steak House located at 9990 Jasper Avenue, just steps from the Shaw Conference Centre.

TICKLING IVORIES

The J-Ifrah Group and Thomas Sabo know how tiring trade shows can be. So they are inviting all attendees to come and relax in their lounge (adjacent to their exhibit in Booth #531), while enjoying soothing piano music. So kick back, enjoy a beverage, and explore J-Ifrah Group/Thomas Sabo’s expansive display of jewellery designs.

DRIVE AWAY A LEXUS

This year’s show features an incredible giveaway from Lexus. The contest, sponsored by Goldstar, gives all visitors the opportunity to enter a draw for a brand new luxury 2013 Lexus ES350. One lucky winner will drive away this fabulous car, which comes fully loaded with sunroof, leather and navigation package. Canadian Jeweller will draw the winner on August 18th at 1:00 pm. Be sure to register and attend CJ Expos for your chance to win. Additional, no-charge Lexus tickets are available from Goldstar.

CHANCE FOR ROMANCE

If you don’t win the Lexus, don’t throw away your ticket. All Lexus draw tickets qualify to win romance packages compliments of The Chateau Lacombe, Courtyard by Marriot and Westin Fairmont Hotel Macdonald.

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM / AUGUST 2013

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PARTY FOR A CAUSE

DiGem is pleased to invite show attendees to the fourth annual DiGem evening of Decadence at the Sutton Place Hotel on Saturday August 17th, in support of “Little Warriors.” Little Warriors is a national organization committed to the awareness, prevention and treatment of child sexual abuse. To order tickets, contact DiGem at 403-346-2380. Tickets are $125.00 per person and are not available at the door. Last year’s event was a sell-out!

EXHIBITORS TO WATCH

Be sure to visit all of the amazing exhibitors at CJ Expos Edmonton. Here are just a few of the great exhibitors you’ll see on the show floor:

THOMAS SABO

Visit Thomas Sabo at Booth #531. There, you’ll find beautiful pieces such as this bracelet made from 925 sterling silver and imitation turquoise – beautiful when worn with summer outfits. Various pendant combinations can be created, depending on the wearer’s personal style. (Bracelet: $329; Bird charm: $134; Heart charm: $54)

JEWELHOUSE CANADA

Jewelhouse Canada has a wide selection of 10k diamond Teen and Promise rings, crafted in pretty styles. Visit Jewelhouse, the exclusive Canadian Platina 4 distributor, at Booth 621 to see a large selection of rings, earrings, pendants, baby and gold jewellery.

+ MJ WILMAN INC.

You’ll find MJ Wilman at Booth #224 at the show. Come see a gorgeous selection, including this white gold, black and white diamond ring (one black diamond = 6.28 ct.; 70 diamonds = 0.92 ct. (Suggested retail price: $7,000)

BEVERLY HILLS JEWELLERS

Make a special trip to Booth #105 to visit Beverly Hills Jewellers to see such stunners as this rose gold and diamond pendant necklace (14kt w&pk, .18ct princess Canadian diamond) and these rose gold and diamond earrings (made of 14kt w&pk, .36tw princess-cut Canadian diamonds).

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+ AMDEN JEWELLERY/TRADERS

This 14K interlocking bracelet chain from Amden Jewellery/Traders alternates black rhodium and white gold, set with diamonds totaling 13.34ct in weight. Be sure to visit Booth #624 to view more of the collection.

+ +

Mag.

Each day at noon, you can attend a “Lunch ‘N Learn” seminar. On August 16th, Shele Letwin & William Letwin of GV Design Canada Inc / Stuller Group will present the latest 3D AutoCAD software. Jewellers take note: come see this demonstration to how it will improve store profit. On August 17th, Douglas Bedford of York Regional Police, who specializes in jewellery robbery/organized crime investigations, will speak about best practices to avert crime risk. Bedford’s Canadian robbery event video is a very helpful guide for your store.

Ross Inc. will provide a two-day training course on August 16th and 17th on the criminal use of diamonds, gemstone and precious metals with specific emphasis on proceeds of crime, money laundering and drug trafficking. Registered course participants are invited to attend CJ Expos as guests. The course is provided adjacent to the exhibition. The course instructor, Kelly Ross, is a certified gemologist, the author of The Fifth C: The Criminal Use of Diamonds, and a recently retired RCMP officer. To register, please email Kelly Ross at rossinc@telus.net.

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AUGUST 2013

044. A DAZZLING AFFAIR A HANDY GUIDE TO CANADIAN JEWELLERY EXPOS EDMONTON

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CANADIAN JEWELLER

090. PLAYING FAIR THE VISION AND PASSION OF FAIR TRADE JEWELLERY 112. WHAT’S IN STORE DESIGN TRENDS AND VISUAL MERCHANDISING TIPS

EN FRANÇAIS

074. LE LUXE A DROIT DE CITÉ

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OSHAWA JEWELLERY WAS FOUNDED THOUGH SHEER DETERMINATION 084.

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As the official CJ Expos publication and media sponsor, Canadian Jeweller magazine will be at CJ Expos to cover the new and notable. “Publisher Olivier Felicio and his team have always been enthusiastic supporters of every facet of the jewellery world and portray a continued focus on Canadians,” says Lilie Ford, CJ Expos event coordinator. “They are not only Canada’s most tenured jewellery magazine, they speak for the soul and spirit of our industry. We are proud to be their partners.” CJ

+ As the official CJ Expos publication and media sponsor, Canadian Jeweller magazine will be at CJ Expos to cover the new and notable. C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M / A U G U S T 2 0 1 3

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EXHIBITORS 24K GOLD GROUP 3SI SECURITY 925 SOLUTIONS ADLER JEWELLERY WHOLESALE (VALENTE) AFFORDABLE CREATIONS ALMAR AMDEN JEWELLERY/TRADERS AMERICA’S GOLD AMERICA’S SILVER ARMS ATLANTIC ENGRAVING LTD AVS GROUP B & S (CANADA) INC BELL DIAMONDS BEST BARGAINS BEVERLY HILLS JEWELLERS BFLY BK JEWELLERY BLACK RAVEN MERCANTILE C.B.E. INC CANADIAN BUYING GROUP CANADIAN JEWELLER MAGAZINE CANADIAN JEWELLERS ASSOCIATION CANADAIN ROCKS (MASTER DESIGN) CARMEN CHARLES GARNIER CONCEPT MARKETING CORONA CUSTOM GOLD/COURTNEY GOLD DESIGNS UNLIMITED/DI DONNA DIACO DIAN CREATIONS DRAGON WING FASHIONS ELLE TIME & JEWELRY/PAJ CANADA EMBIX WATCH IMPORTING CO EMPRESS EUGENE GEMS EUROPEAN DESIGN JEWELLERY LTD EXPERT CASTING EYE SPY SECURITY FIVE STAR GOLD/AMORI & BACI/LUXURY CERAMIC FOCUS BUSINESS MANAGEMENT INSTITUTE FOSSIL GDS GEM CONNECTION GEMPREMIUM GEMSPARKLE LTD/PRAASH JEWELS INC GENIUS DIAMOND GILO PEARLS GOLD & SILVER HOUSE GOLD STAR JEWELLERY GREENWOOD GENERAL INSURANCE GUTHER MELE HOUSE OF JEWELLERY HOUSE OF MARLEY IMPECCABLE JEWELLERY INTERMERGE CANADA INC

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J IFRAH GROUP/THOMAS SABO J.W. HISTED DIAMONDS/J.W. FINDINGS & STONES JEWELERS MUTUAL INSURANCE COMPANY JEWELHOUSE CANADA JEWELLERS VIGILANCE CANADA (JVC) JEWELLERY BUSINESS MAGAZINE JOHN’S WHOLESALE JEWELERY KARAT IMPORTS LTD KEITH JACK INC KIN CHONG GEMS & JEWELLERY (CANADA) INC KORITE KP JEWELLERY LC DIAMONDS INC/DALUMI GROUP LIBMAN AND CO LIVINGSTONE JEWELRY CO, INC LOTUS JEWELLERY LOW COST LEADERS MADANI MALCA AMIT MASTER DESIGN MDL DIAMONDS MIDORE INC MYSTIC CREATION IMPORTS MJ WILMAN INC MULTI CREATIONS NEW JERSEY INC NEW YORK JEWELS NOBLE PACKAGING NSCNC MANUFACTURING LTD PAGM DESIGNS PARAGEMS PMG MARKETING INC PREMIER PEARL & GEM COMPANY PURELY PEARLS R. CREATIONS REMBRANDT CHARMS RODANIA CANADA ROUSSEAU CHAIN LTD SALESONE INTERNATIONAL SILVERMAN CHAPMAN REESE SK DIAMONDS SOTHIL INC SPARKLING JEWELLERY SPECTRUM IMPORTS INC STANDOUT DESIGN STUDIO PINK STULLER T & T JEWELLERS INC TATIANA JEWELLERY DESIGN INC TECIMER JEWELLERY LTD TRESOR PARIS CANADA UNITED PMR VAN DAN ASSOCIATES INC WATIER FINDINGS INC/JOSEF ELIAS WINGENBACK INC XAARR ZEGHANI BY SIMON

531 805 1009 621 1010 831 117 & 114 709 125 228 517 623 110 205 230 1004 705 820 1007 205 109 213 1022 224 822 330 1016 821 609 321 100 329 223 DC1 608 1006 809 819 817 505 413 713 221 328 717 220 108 320 317 825 813 421 625 1025 DC4 313

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August 11 - 12 - 13 August August 11 11 -- 12 12 -- 13 13 August 11 - 12 - 13

2013 2013 2013 2013

TORONTO TORONTO TORONTO Metro TORONTO Toronto Convention Centre Metro Toronto Convention Centre Metro Toronto Convention Centre

Metro Toronto Convention Centre

August 16 - 17 - 18 August August 16 16 -- 17 17 -- 18 18 August 16 - 17 - 18

2013 2013 2013 2013

EDMONTON EDMONTON EDMONTON Shaw Conference Centre EDMONTON Shaw Shaw Conference Conference Centre Centre Shaw Conference Centre

Attend and WIN! Attend and WIN! Attend and WIN! Attend and WIN! Attend for your chance to win a 2013 Lexus ES 350 Attend for your winWinners a 2013 Lexus ES 350 Twochance Expos to - Two Attend for your chance to win a 2013 Lexus ES 350 Two Expos Two Winners Attend for your winWinners a 2013 Lexus ES 350 Twochance Expos to - Two Two Expos - Two Winners

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News / Trends / Events Western Canada, another 76 stores and one distribution centre are set to open later this year. Twenty-four of Target’s locations in Ontario have been awarded the Leadership in Energy & Environmental Design (LEED) certification. Target is seeking LEED certification for all 124 stores to open in Canada this year.

TARGET TO OPEN 76 NEW CANADIAN STORES Despite only opening its Canadian doors this year, Target has its sights set on more Canadian-centric goals. After opening its first 48 international stores and two distribution centres across Ontario and

DIAMOND BOURSE AND GIA HOST EVENT

The Diamond Bourse of Canada and the GIA Alumni Association Ontario Chapter hosted a networking event at the Diamond Bourse facility on May 22nd. The event was the first in a series of educational, networking and career forums to be hosted by the two entities. David Gavin, president of Diamond Bourse of Canada, discussed issues and developments in the Canadian diamond and jewellery sectors during his presentation “The Changing Face of the Industry.”

Great retailers need great charms.

AVI PAZ APPOINTED PRESIDENT OF WORLD DIAMOND COUNCIL

Avi Paz, formerly the First Vice President of the World Diamond Council, has been named the new president of the group. Paz’s new position was assumed after former president Eli Izhakoff stepped down at the end of June. Paying tribute to his predecessor, Paz called Izhakoff an “industry giant” who gave the WDC community renewed strength.

PANDORA EXECUTIVE VP STEPS DOWN Heaven Fine Jewellers ’ Rembrandt Charm Department

“Rembrandt offers in-store and digital marketing programs. The marketing pieces are always relevant to my business, my customers’ tastes, and vary nicely for each season.” Shamim Vojdani, Store Manager & Co-Owner Heaven Fine Jewellers, Brampton, ON REMBRANDT CHARMS – NUCO PRODUCTS 11 Progress Ave, Unit 17 • Scarborough, ON M1P 4S7 orders@rembrandtcharms.ca 800.387.5238 • 416.293.3495 • 24/7 fax 416.293.1227

Top 15

Sten Daugaard, executive vice-president and chief development officer for Pandora, is stepping down from his position. Daugaard will continue to serve as a non-executive director on the board. Daugaard, who joined Pandora in January 2012, was part of Pandora’s executive board and was also responsible for the company’s corporate strategy and development.

WFDB AND CIBJO SIGN AGREEMENT

The World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) and the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) have signed a cooperation agreement concerning their influence on the worldwide diamond and jewellery sectors. After a recent WFDB meeting in Istanbul, the two companies agreed to remain separate, but work together, on gemological standards and nomenclature.

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C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M / A U G U S T 2 0 1 3

for the record

RETAIL COUNCIL PRESENTS INDUSTRY AWARDS In recognition of Canada’s top retail industry achievers, the Retail Council of Canada presented 13 awards at the Excellence in Retailing Awards Gala Dinner on June 4th in Toronto. The awards were presented as part of STORE 2013, Canada’s Retail Conference. Stephen Wetmore, president and CEO of Canadian Tire, was awarded this year’s Distinguished Retailer of the Year.

RIO TINTO TO RETAIN DIAMOND BUSINESSES

Timeco locations in the Lower Mainland became effective July 1st. Timeco locations in The Pacific Centre in Vancouver and the Richmond Centre will become WATCH IT! stores. Timeco’s location in Metropolis at Metrotown in Burnaby will become a specialty sister store.

HUDSON’S BAY LOOKS INTO BUYING SAKS

Rio Tinto, a British-Australian mining company, has decided to retain its diamond businesses. The company concluded a strategic review, and after considering alternative strategic ownership options, decided that retaining the businesses will create maximum value for its shareholders, says Alan Davies, Rio Tinto Diamonds & Minerals chief executive.

Hudson’s Bay Co. (HBC) is looking into acquiring Saks Inc., a U.S. department store. While no formal offer has been made, sources tell The Globe and Mail the price is currently “too high” for HBC chief executive officer Richard Baker. It is not clear whether HBC would introduce Saks into Canada, either as separate store space or boutiques within HBC stores, say industry watchers. If the acquisition does take place, HBC would carry many new jewellery lines such as of Roberto Coin, Pomellato and Mikimoto.

BLFY WELCOMES NEW SALES MANAGER

Bfly, a Quebec-based children's jewellery company, has announced that Keven Gauvin will be the company's new sales manager for Canada. His role comes into effect on August 9. Gauvin has been a sales representative in the jewellery industry for eight years. "You will appreciate working with him for his leadership and his exceptional customer services," states a press release from the company. y is sending a recruiter to look for exceptional retail talent and to hold talks about its reputation for above-average customer service.

WATCH IT! ACQUIRES TIMECO

WATCH IT!, one of Canada’s leading watch retailers, has announced its purchase of the BC-based watch retailer, Timeco. The acquisition of all three

halometrics.com

BIRKS SHOWCASES OWN COLLECTIONS

Birks, a leading Canadian jeweller since 1879, will be exclusively selling its own jewellery collections at its new stores in the DIX30 Complex in Brossard, QC and in the new Mapleview Mall in Burlington, ON. With an eye on international expansion, the Canadian retailer is focused on promoting its own name. Specialty EAS Tags

TRESOR PARIS CELEBRATES LAUNCH OF BLOG

Tresor Paris celebrated the launch of its new blog, J’adore Tresor, by inviting top UK bloggers to its spring/summer crystal collection showcase in London. The blog will spotlight latest trends, celebrity and street styles and accessory tips with the help of monthly guest bloggers.

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Donna M. Baker, the longtime president and CEO of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) unexpectedly resigned due to what is described as “differing views on the direction of GIA.” The announcement was made by current board of governors chair Susan M. Jacques, president and CEO of Borsheims. Jacques has stepped in as GIA’s interim president and CEO until a permanent replacement is found.

METALSMITHS STERLING WELCOMES INDUSTRY VETERANS Metalsmiths Sterling, a Europeaninspired luxury brand, has hired three industry veterans as regional vice-presidents in order to grow its presence in U.S. markets. Claudia Evans Zale, director of merchandising at Stuller Inc. has been appointed Southern Regional vice-president; Kim Alterini, regional sales manager of Gucci Watches and Jewelry, is the new Midwest regional VP; and Susan Parker is the new Southeast regional VP.

JMI MAKES BOARD APPOINTMENTS RICHEMONT CEO RESIGNS

Martha Wikstrom, CEO of fashion and accessories for Richemont, has resigned from her position. She will serve as a non-executive director of the board until the company’s shareholder meeting on September 12.

DOMINION DIAMOND PROFITS SOAR

Dominion Diamond Corp. has recorded a profit of $500.2 million in the first quarter. Approximately $497.6 million is due to the sale of Harry Winston. The company sold its Harry Winston arm in March, when Swatch completed a one billion dollar acquisition of the jewellery company.

Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company announced a new chair and new members to its board of directors. Mark Fiebrink has been elected company chair and Kurt Steckbeck, chief executive officer of North American Jewelers Inc. is the new vice chair. Sherry Manetta and John Ward have been appointed as new representatives to the board of directors. The company has also hired Tim Riedl as its new senior vicepresident of commercial lines.

TIFFANY & CO. APPOINTS NEW SENIOR VP

Andrew Ledru has been named Tiffany & Co.’s senior vice-president for North America. He is expected to drive sales in the U.S. and Canada, the company’s largest region. Ledru’s past experience includes working with Harry Winston International and Cartier. CJ

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Clockwise from top left: Duncan Parker, VP at Dupuis Auctioneers & president of JVC, Alex Barcados, president of C. D. Barcados Co. Ltd., Stephen Cooper of Rembrandt Charms, Deeb Basmaji of Graziella Fine Jewellery; Greg Merrall, program coordinator at Georgian College, Beth Saunders, general manager at Canadian Jewellery Group, Lisa Banks, VP of communications at Georgian College, Brian Land of JVC; Gino DeVuono, director of sales at Movado Group, Inc., Zinnia Crawford, CMO at The RGM Group, Rick Sutton, president at Brand Energy; Diana Luxton, director of business development at Myerson’s Limited, with Sevan Titizian, general manager at G.C. International Ltd.; Marilyn Robb; Diana Luxton, Allan Slavner, Ashley Myerson, owner at Myerson’s Limited; Leo Fournier, president & COO of Timex Group Canada Inc., Barney Roopnarinesingh, senior operations manager at Timex Group Canada Inc., Daniel Des Cotes, VP of sales at Timex Group Canada Inc., Paul Sine, VP of marketing at Timex Group Canada Inc.

JVC tees off with the industry’s best HELD AT THE ANGUS GLEN GOLF CLUB, South Course on June 17th, the Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC) 17th Annual Golf Tournament included a day of golfing, followed by an evening of cocktails, dinner and a silent auction. A number of the jewellery industry’s top players were on the course to show their support. They were later treated to a reception on the patio of the Angus Glen Golf Club. In addition to the golfers, more than 20 additional members of the industry were on hand to support the JVC and partake in the reception and dinner. The silent auction included more than 50 items, which resulted in

A U G U S T 2 0 1 3 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

some enthusiastic bidding and very generous donations. The auction also included some unique non-jewellery and watch items. “It was another great JVC Golf Tournament, thanks to so many industry members who supported us,” says Phyllis Richard, executive director at JVC. “We had some jewellers who had participated in this tournament for the first time. It was wonderful to meet everyone and see some new faces.” Richard says that this fundraiser, as with the Jewellers’ Ball, “helps JVC continue to be an important “go-to” organization for the Canadian jewellery and watch industry." CJ

WORLD’S NUMBER ONE

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Clockwise from top left: Beth Saunders of Canadian Jewellery Group and John Vaccaro and Anesha Raghubir of Beverly Hills Jewellers; CJG Directors: John Halsall of JR Jewellers, Rose Taylor of Taylor’s Jewellers and Ernie Epp of Independent Jewellers; Stephen Cole of Spicer Cole Fine Jewellers, Cathy and Richard Rooney of Bogart’s Jewellers, Linda Weckman of L.C. Diamonds and Bogart Rooney of Bogart’s Jewellers; Eric Senftleben and Kevin Kaye of Citizen Watch Company, Allen Schechtman of Martin Ross Group, Doug Irwin of Citizen Watch Company, Christina Szodendi and Jonathan Weizman of Citizen Watch Company, Master Design; Wayne Fisher of Richardson’s Jewellery, Dennis O’Neil of O’Neil’s Fine Jewellery, Ernie Epp of Independent Jewellers and John Halsall of JR Jewellers. Photos by Brian VandenDool

Cocktails, Canadian Style! A CROWD OF ABOUT 150 PEOPLE turned up for cocktails and canapés, and to network with their colleagues, at the Canadian Jewellery Group Cocktail Reception on June 2nd at The Mandalay Bay Hotel. Held during the recent JCK Las Vegas show, the soiree was hosted by the Canadian Jewellery Group, and co-sponsored by Beverly Hills Jewellers, Canadian Jeweller magazine, EVER and Orion. “This is the second time we have hosted such an event,” says Beth Saunders, General Manager of the Jewellery Group, Canada’s largest

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jewellery buying group. “We do this event mostly for our own retail members and our suppliers that attend the JCK Las Vegas show. It is an opportunity to socialize and network with other members and Canadians.” Saunders, who noted that everyone had a “fabulous time,” says the venue was great. “It felt open and roomy, the food was excellent and the bar service was good. It is just a nice, very informal event that everyone is welcome to come to.” CJ

For details, write #130 on Free Info Page, page 168

EXCEPTIONAL SERVICE - INVENTORY - WEBSITE

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Top, left to right: Dupuis Auctioneers; Renaissance revival enamel and gem-set pendant necklace Below, left to right; Emerald, tourmaline and gold ring by Secrett; A pair of antique hardstone cameos; Paste intaglio and silver ring with which Robertson Davies proposed marriage to Brenda. All photos by Dupuis Auctioneers

Auction features jewellery of Mrs. Robertson Davies AN AMAZING ARRAY OF JEWELLERY and timepieces went up for public auction at the Dupuis Fine Jewellery Auctioneers’ semi-annual auction at The Windsor Arms Hotel in Toronto on June 23rd. Of particular interest to lovers of jewellery and Canadiana was a collection from the estate of Brenda Davies, or “Mrs. Robertson Davies” as she liked to be called. Brenda Davies, wife of Canadian author and cultural icon Robertson Davies (1913-1995), passed away in January 2013 at the age of 95. “Her children held on to the pieces that were important to them,” says Duncan Parker, vice-president of Toronto-based Dupuis. “But their parents were collectors of things. For instance, Robertson Davies took great pleasure in book collecting. When he died, he said he wanted his collection to be made available so people could have the pleasure of having them as he did. The children felt their mother would want to do the same thing with her jewellery.” The distinctive, 26-piece Davies collection featured an array of fine gold and gem cameos, intaglios and polychrome enamels from the 19th and 20th centuries. Many of the pieces had intricately carved scenes from mythology and figures from antiquity, picturesque birds and enamelled foliage. The low estimate for the collection was $40,900, but it sold at auction for a total of $81,050.

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Of collector interest was a silver and paste ring that Robertson Davies slipped off his finger and placed on that of the former Brenda Mathews as an engagement ring backstage at the Old Vic theatre in London, England, where they met. The engagement ring was estimated at $300-$400 and sold for $1,500. “Her interest in carved gemstones probably began with that ring,” says Parker, who notes that while the Davies’ lived in Canada, they returned to England often where Brenda would pick up pieces for her collection. “The handiwork is amazing,” says Parker of the collection. “She had a great eye, a wonderful sense of ornament. The ‘whole’ was the important element. She didn’t have anything that said: ‘Look at my giant diamond.’ She was captivated by beauty, form, colour and texture.” The larger 600-piece spring collection from Dupuis included everything from Modern to Art Deco design. Pieces ranged from an antique coral, diamond and gold bracelet by J.E. Caldwell & Co., circa 1895, to a rare man’s stainless steel single button chronograph wristwatch by Omega (made for the Royal Canadian Air Force), circa 1960. CJ

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Clockwise from top left: singer Paula Abdul and actress Jenny McCarthy; The Village People; actress Katrina Bowden and reality star Audrina Patridge; the Ghanimian family: Zaven, Simon, Silvia and Henry; Tao Nightclub in The Venetian; actor Mario Lopez and wife Courtney Mazza; actor Gilles Marini and wife Carole

Simon G hosts night to remember BY NOW, MOST PEOPLE KNOW that the Simon G. Jewelry Summer Soiree is the place to be during the JCK show in Vegas, and this year’s bash definitely did not disappoint. Held at the elegant Tao Nightclub in The Venetian, the event was hosted by Simon Ghanimian, or Simon G., who has been the go-to-jeweller for many celebrities for more than 30 years. Stars like Jenny McCarthy, Holly Madison, Paula Abdul, Audrina Patridge and Catt Sadler, to name just a few, dazzled in Simon G. jewels while guests enjoyed a surprise performance from The Village People with classic hits like “YMCA” and “Macho Man.” CJ

A U G U S T 2 0 1 3 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

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Clockwise from top left: Elena Ralph, former Miss Israel, Natalie Glebova, former Miss Universe & Canadian Ice diamond ambassador, Irina Lytchak, assistant editor at Canadian Jeweller magazine, Veronique Dube, writer; Gino DeVuono, director of sales at Movado Group, Inc., with Marco Miserendino, VP & managing director at Bijouterie Italienne; Maroon 5 rocking the stage; Natalie Glebova with Brent Trepel, president & CEO at Ben Moss Jewellers; Steve Reale, senior VP for worldwide sales & marketing at JSN Jewellery, Joseph Shilon, president & CEO of JSN Jewellery, Elena Ralph, guest

JCK Rocks the Beach PERHAPS THE ONE EVENT OF JCK LAS VEGAS that is not to be missed, is the JCK Rocks the Beach party. And this year’s edition was definitely a night to remember. As a perfect way to wrap up a long weekend of hard work for the trade show attendees, the evening included a celebration at the spectacular The Beach at Mandalay Bay, topped off by an intimate performance from pop-rock band Maroon 5.

A U G U S T 2 0 1 3 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

Dressed in casual beach attire, guests enjoyed listening to tunes like “Moves Like Jagger” while celebrating the closure of another successful run of one of the world’s largest jewellery and watch exhibits. Jewelers Mutual Insurance, which sponsored the event, is commemorating its 100-year anniversary this year. CJ

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Clockwise from top left: On the red carpet with Bill Rancic, entrepreneur, and Giuliana Rancic, television personality; Eddie LeVian, designer & CEO, Le Vian Corp.; Miranda LeVian, Bill Rancic, Giuliana Rancic, Moossa LeVian, president, Le Vian Corp., Elizabeth LeVian; Monica Jackson, co-anchor of FOX5 News Live in Las Vegas; Model wearing the Azure Blues trend; Rafael Etessami, Liz LeVian Etessami, Bill and Giuliana Rancic, Miranda Levian, Angela LeVian, Suzy LeVian Liviem

Le Vian holds star-studded event IN TRUE LE VIAN FASHION, the Le Vian Red Carpet Revue at JCK Las Vegas was a star-studded event that treated guests to a jewellery and fashion trend forecast for fall and the upcoming year. Held in the Lagoon Ballroom at the Mandalay Bay Hotel & Casino, invitees walked the red carpet and enjoyed cocktails and refreshments before watching a fashion show that unveiled the fall fashion forecast for 2013. The annual event, co-sponsored by Harper’s Bazaar magazine,

A U G U S T 2 0 1 3 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

benefitted Jewelers for Children. Le Vian president Eddie Le Vian pledged a minimum of $150,000 donation to the charity, with additional funds matched from other donations during the course of the evening. Avril Graham, executive fashion and beauty editor of Harper’s Bazaar, was on hand to reveal some of the fashion forecast, which included chocolate quartz as the gemstone of the year and the “cushion” as the top gem shape. CJ

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A DREAM, REALIZED

Roberto Coin, the man behind one of the world’s most revered jewellery brands, maintains the success of his company by staying involved and pursuing his passion. By Irina Lytchak

THIRTY-SIX YEARS AGO, ROBERTO COIN TOOK A CHANCE. He took a chance by starting something he felt extremely passionate about, and he hasn’t looked back since. Today, his brand, which goes by his own name, is one of the most internationally recognized, high-end jewellery companies, ranked third in the world and first in Italy. “I’m a dreamer. I still dream,” says Coin. “You don’t know if your dream could come true, but I knew I wanted to create something nice, something with quality, create my own ideas. And you don’t know the result until you confront yourself.” Coin was immersed in the hotel business before diving into the jewellery industry. Having completed schooling at a Swiss catering school, Coin moved to France and proceeded to open his own café, a restaurant and a hotel. At 33, Coin decided to take the opportunity to start something new. By this point in his life, he had found great success in the hospitality industry, which gave him the confidence to move on to something else. “I could go back anytime so I was, should we say, in a very good position to take a chance,” he says. “I was on top of the world but I was brave enough to challenge myself.” Coin recalls that he had an unyielding desire to participate in the fashion world and he chose to do so through jewellery. He established Roberto Coin in Venice in 1977, at which time the company produced jewellery for other global brands. By 1996, Coin introduced his own brand, and shortly after it began to garner international attention. “I’m not even really a designer, because I never went to school for design,” he says. “But I’m a creator and fortunately I was born with a creative mind, which you don’t have to have only for jewellery, but for your own personal life.”

A DAY IN THE LIFE

Today, the brand has boutiques worldwide, in cities from Dubai to Rome. But that doesn’t mean Coin has taken any steps back from what he created. Recounting a day in his life, Coin is as much a part of his business today as he was from the start.

A U G U S T 2 0 1 3 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

Whenever he’s in Italy, Coin is usually at the office by 8 a.m. for a day that involves an average of about 10 meetings. Apart from overseeing the day-to-day activity of the business, Coin is also responsible for the financial aspects, which means meeting with banks, accounting departments and sales staff. “I travel a lot, probably to 30 and 40 countries every year,” he says. “I meet with different clientele and see different nationalities, different religions, different ways of thinking. It’s not what we call typical.” But he’s not alone. Coin’s oldest son, one of three, runs production, while his daughter is accountable for quality control, and his wife is in charge of marketing. “I didn’t ask them to come work with me,” he says. “I think they were just fascinated with my life and that’s why they came in.”

STAYING ON TOP

The secret of the Roberto Coin brand, which is known for constantly unveiling new pieces and collections to suit a very wide range of clientele, lies in Coin’s ability to understand women’s tastes. “The fashion world is changing every year and women are always looking for something new,” he explains. “New is the answer. That’s why we create so many new things every year. We try to stay on top of it and understand it.” Roberto Coin recently showed at the Couture show in Las Vegas where the company displayed a myriad of its latest collections, one of them being Animalier, the largest line of animal-inspired jewellery pieces ever created. “You have to have a good imagination and to be able to think about what the clients will want to wear in 12 months time,” says Coin. “That’s what the creators are for.” Almost every single piece of jewellery produced by Roberto Coin contains elements of rubies and rubellite which, according to Ancient Egyptian legend, brings health, happiness and good fortune to its wearer. And if legend is true, it’s clear Coin tapped into something very special all those years ago, when he decided to take a chance. CJ

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Les Nouvelles

SHAMBALLA JEWELS PYRAMID BRACELET, ORNÉ DE PYRAMIDES EN OR ROSE ET DE DIAMANTS

L’impressionnant kiosque de Citizen à Baselworld 2013

Lors du dernier Salon Mondial de l’Horlogerie et de la Bijouterie Baselworld, le kiosque Frozen Time de Citizen, réalisé par la firme DORELL.GHOTMEH.TANE / ARCHITECTS, avait de quoi impressionner les visiteurs. Le concept a été réalisé à partir de 50 000 platines, ces pièces servant de base à l’assemblage de toute montre. L’utilisation des platines n’était pas le fruit du hasard; les concepteurs ont ainsi voulu souligner l’excellence de Citizen en horlogerie en mettant l’accent sur la base de son travail. Les platines elles-mêmes ne sont pas des pièces mobiles du mouvement. Par contre, une montre sans la platine ne pourrait fonctionner. Le concept du « temps qui s’arrête » était dépeint grâce à ces pièces suspendues dans les airs. Les visiteurs pouvaient donc circuler dans un espace où la lumière qui reflétait sur les pièces semblait vouloir arrêter le temps. CANADIANJEWELLER.COM / AUGUST 2013

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qu’aux rapports de «meurtres quotidiens» dans les provinces luandaises de l’Angola. Eli Izhakoff, le président du World Diamond Council, s’est tout de suite dissocié, ainsi que le WDC, des propos de Meeus. Selon Izhakoff, les ONG sont essentielles au bon fonctionnement du processus de Kimberly. Les propos de Meeus ont aussi été dénoncés par Alan Martin, le directeur de recherche de Partnership Africa Canada.

Paradise et Life Links par Hera

Présentées pendant le salon Couture de mai dernier, les collections de Hera ont attiré notre attention. La designer allie avec brio les métaux précieux afin de proposer des bijoux en argent faciles à porter. Elle offre des pièces agrémentées d’or 18 carats, brillamment accentuées de diamants et de pierres précieuses taillées de façon unique. Avec Paradise, Hera conçoit des bijoux aux textures naturelles sertis de gemmes aux teintes de l’océan et de couleurs exotiques rappelant celles des couchers du soleil. Ces éléments paradisiaques se reflètent dans chacune des pièces de la collection. Life Links, un concept alliant les pièces des collections Paradise et Unity, permet à chaque femme de créer un bijou qui correspond à sa personnalité, son histoire et ses souvenirs. Un bijou unique qu’elle peut faire évoluer au fil de sa vie.

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Lors d’une conférence angolaise qui a eu lieu à la mi-juin, Peter Meeus, l’actuel président de Dubai Diamond Exchange, a qualifié les abus décriés par les organisations non gouvernementales de «fantaisies que certains pourraient appeler des mensonges». Il a fait allusion au documentaire de la BBC sur les «camps de torture» de la région de Marange, au Zimbabwe, ainsi

Zinzi : des bijoux colorés, lumineux et stylisés

Deux fois par année, Zinzi renouvelle ses collections de manière à présenter aux consommatrices les dernières tendances et des créations aussi surprenantes qu’abordables. Établi à Rotterdam, aux Pays-Bas, le fabricant de bijoux s’assure d’offrir des pièces de qualité supérieure grâce, entre autres, à l’utilisation de technologies de pointe. Pour la deuxième portion de 2013, Zinzi propose une collection inspirée de la Côte d’Azur et du glamour qui s’en dégage. Fabriquée en argent sterling, on réinvente les classiques, on superpose le jaune, l’argent et le rose, et on ose les motifs sauvages et les pavés de pierres.

Chute du prix de l’or à prévoir…

Si Goldman Sachs dit vrai, le prix de l’or pourrait descendre à 1050$ l’once. Selon la réputée banque d’investissement, le métal jaune, après avoir connu une ascension fulgurante au cours des 12 dernières années et s’être vendu à plus de 1900$ l’once, pourrait refluer à 1050$ d’ici la fin de 2014. Cette baisse du cours de l’or accroîtrait ainsi l’activité économique et, par le fait même, la demande des bijoux.

Pourquoi les bijoutiers doivent s’intéresser à Pinterest

D’abord, parce que certaines sources estiment que le site détiendrait quelque 50 millions d’utilisateurs. Pour mettre ces chiffres en contexte, Vogue – la référence mondiale en matière de mode – en compte environ 1 million. Pinterest, c’est une façon de collectionner et d’organiser visuellement ce que l’utilisateur veut mettre en avant-plan. Ensuite, l’activité suscitée par Pinterest est susceptible de se convertir en vente. Quand un détaillant « épingle » une image, il annonce ce qu’il vend. Et chaque fois qu’un utilisateur la « ré-épingle », cette même image est redistribuée sans effort de la part du détaillant. Et finalement, parce que Pinterest regorge d’informations sur les goûts actuels des consommateurs. Par exemple, une visite sur les albums de bagues de fiançailles démontre que ceux-ci ont de plus en plus d’intérêt pour les styles non traditionnels. Pour les acheteurs des bijouteries, Pinterest devient ainsi un outil incontournable.

The Most Prestigious Jewellery Show in Canada Le salon de bijouterie le plus prestigieux au Canada

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Tendance à surveiller : les pierres brutes

On l’a vu chez la créatrice Brooke Gregson, qui utilise des opales boulder et des diamants tranchés, ainsi que chez la Canadienne Pippa Small, qui s’inspire des turquoises brutes et des tanzanites translucides… Le style bohème chic de leurs bijoux s’exprime par un sertissage irrégulier des pierres afin de conserver leurs lignes pures. De plus, une attention particulière est portée aux différentes propriétés des gemmes; aux pierres irréprochables, on préfère celles qui ont du charme et du caractère. On accumule les bijoux, on mélange les chaînes en or à la soie tressée, on se laisse envoûter par le bleu intense des pierres qui rappellent l’océan, les tons rosés et orangés qui s’apparentent au ciel d’été. Des bijoux qui ont tout pour mettre en valeur les teints hâlés de la saison estivale.

Rio Tinto conservera ses propriétés diamantifères

Faisant volte-face à sa décision de mars 2012 de se départir de ses propriétés diamantifères, Rio Tinto a cité les conditions favorables du marché des diamants dans sa décision de ne plus vendre ses mines. L’année dernière, alors que BHP annonçait la vente de ses propriétés diamantifères, Rio Tinto semblait vouloir emboîter le pas. Cependant, encouragé par la demande croissante pour les biens de luxe en Asie et par la forte demande de diamants en Amérique du Nord, Rio Tinto croit que le meilleur moyen pour générer le maximum de revenus pour les actionnaires est de conserver ses mines.

Ti Sento présente sa collection automne/hiver 2013

Maintenant vendue dans plus de 35 pays, Ti Sento présente sa nouvelle collection automne/hiver La Bella Vita. Sous le thème de la romance italienne, les plus récentes pièces s’inspirent des designs architecturaux classiques de Florence à l’époque de la Renaissance. Tous les bijoux sont fabriqués en argent sterling et sont plaqués de rhodium. Afin de recréer la lueur mythique, les pièces s’enjolivent de détails accentués d’or jaune ou rose et de ruthénium. Elles se déclinent sous forme de colliers imposants, de bracelets rigides et de bagues cocktail ornées de pierres dans les tons de noir, de brun-chocolat et de bordeaux. La collection sera disponible à compter du mois d’août pour les bijouteries partenaires.

Elliott Chandler : des bijoux exclusifs au design unique

Lors du plus récent salon JCK, où la compagnie a d’ailleurs gagné le prix du meilleur nouveau produit, Elliott Chandler a présenté des bijoux raffinés, où style et élégance se côtoient pour offrir des parures exceptionnelles. Chaque pièce est méticuleusement façonnée et créée en or 18 carats jaune, blanc ou rose par des artisans en Italie. Seuls des diamants et des pierres précieuses de grande qualité sont utilisés dans la fabrication des bijoux. Depuis peu, Elliott Chandler a introduit une nouvelle collection de bijoux en argent d’inspiration européenne qui propose aussi des designs uniques.

100 years is a good start. From a small group of jewellers looking to create better insurance for their businesses to the North American jewellery industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trusted protector and advisor. It has been an outstanding century for our members. And our next century looksâ&#x20AC;Ś brilliant. Learn more about the 100th anniversary of Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company at JewelersMutual.ca/history.

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Comment les femmes choisissent leurs bagues de fiançailles

Selon le plus récent rapport sur la situation du marché de The Knot, 37% des futures mariées disent à leur fiancé exactement quelle bague elles désirent. 12% laissent stratégiquement à la vue dans leur domicile des images de bagues et 9% demandent l’aide des amis ou des membres de la famille afin de les guider dans leur achat.

Stuller offre le diamant exclusif Signature 74MC

Toujours à l’avant-plan en matière d’innovation, Stuller propose à ses clients le diamant exclusif Signature 74MC, où une coupe de 74 facettes a scientifiquement été mise au point afin de maximiser la réflexion de la lumière. Chaque diamant Signature 74MC possède une plus grande brillance et est accompagné de la carte OGI Firetrace, attestant son excellente réflexion lumineuse. De plus, chaque pierre est inscrite d’un numéro unique au laser correspondant au rapport EGL qui l’accompagne. Stuller a présenté le diamant Signature 74MC lors du salon JCK de mai dernier.

François Tauriac chez Richard Mille

Le nouveau directeur général de Richard Mille est François Tauriac. Né en juin 1961, François Tauriac s’est lancé dans le journalisme après ses études de droit et a hérité de la passion de ce métier grâce à son père Michel Tauriac, journaliste, écrivain, grand homme de radio et biographe du Général de Gaulle. François Tauriac a fait toute sa carrière au sein du Groupe Figaro. En prenant la direction de la marque Richard Mille, il rejoint un ami et complice de longue date, mais il fait également parler son ADN.

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En effet, à l'âge de 18 ans, il s’exerça comme apprenti chez le fameux joaillier Jacques Lenfant, son grand-père, fabricant de bijoux et de boîtiers de montres pour des grands joailliers de la place Vendôme. François Tauriac, outre sa passion pour la technique automobile et la photographie, est un grand amateur et amoureux d’horlogerie, à l’instar de son ami Richard Mille. Il aura pour mission d’assurer la continuation du développement de la marque, que ce soit en termes de distribution sélective, d’organisation, de logistique et de communication. Il agira en totale symbiose avec Richard Mille, Président et P-DG de la marque, qui souhaite se consacrer encore plus à la stratégie du groupe ainsi qu’à la création et au développement de nouveaux modèles pour les années à venir.

Alessandra Rosa Di Geso récompensée

Le 23 mai dernier, Alessandra Rosa Di Geso recevait le Prix d’excellence Chubb de la prestigieuse compagnie d’assurance Chubb. Lors d’une réception qui avait lieu au Birks Café par Europea, la gemmologue certifiée FGA a été félicitée pour ses résultats exceptionnels obtenus aux examens 2012 du cours Évaluation de pierres et de bijoux, offert par l’École de gemmologie de Montréal (ÉGM). Durant l’événement, on a aussi souligné l’excellent travail des diplômés de l’édition 2012. Étaient présents, en plus de la compagnie d’assurance Chubb, les représentants de l’Association canadienne des bijoutiers, de Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC) et de Gemworld International. Accompagnée de ses parents, Alessandra Rosa Di Geso les a chaudement remerciés pour leurs encouragements en plus de mentionner le bon travail de l’ÉGM et de sa directrice et fondatrice, Odile Civitello. La jeune gemmologue souhaite poursuivre sa carrière à Montréal et compte bien travailler sur quelques projets personnels. CJ

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Le Salon Mondial de l'Horlogerie et de la Bijouterie BASELWORLD à Bâle, Suisse, avril 2013.

LE LUXE A DROIT DE CITÉ Par Didier Brodbeck

JOURNÉE D’ÉCHANGES ENTRE PROFESSIONNELS du secteur, la pre-

mière « Cité du luxe », organisée par l’École internationale de marketing du luxe (EIML) à Paris, s’est tenue le 11 avril dernier, en présence de nombreux intervenants. Cette édition avait pour thème : « Les nouveaux entrants dans le luxe ». La première édition de cette journée d’échanges entre professionnels du secteur du luxe, qui avait pour vocation de réunir acteurs du luxe, étudiants diplômés, futurs diplômés de l’EIML et institutionnels, afin de réfléchir ensemble aux problématiques actuelles du secteur, a réuni plus de deux-cents personnes sur le campus de l’EIML Paris et a connu un franc succès. La réplique la plus pertinente et qui a mis la salle - surtout composée d’étudiants - en joie, est venue de Thierry Moisset, p-dg des Forges Laguiole. A la fin de chaque table ronde, un petit questionnaire à la manière de Michel Drucker dans « Faites entrer l’invité » était soumis aux intervenants. La dernière question était : « quelle est votre devise préférée ? » et Thierry Moisset de répondre sans hésiter : « Moi, c’est l’euro ». Cette première édition de la « Cité du luxe », mise en scène par l’EIML (École internationale du marketing du luxe), avait pour thème « Les nouveaux entrants dans le luxe ». Les débats étaient animés par des professeurs de l’école et la directrice Élodie de Boissieu.

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Trois tables rondes se sont succédées en fin d’après-midi du 11 avril, dans le grand amphithéâtre, pour évoquer « Les belles endormies ». A savoir, le réveil de Mauboussin expliqué par son p-dg Alain Némarq ; la faillite évitée des couteaux Laguiole avec la reprise par son p-dg Thierry Moisset ; et l’internationalisation des cuisinières La Cornue, par le petit-fils du fondateur, Xavier Dupuy. Non, ce n’est pas un inventaire à la Prévert... Pour sauver le joaillier Mauboussin, Alain Némarq a rendu le luxe accessible en se fâchant avec la place Vendôme. Pour vendre ses couteaux, Thierry Moisset a fait appel à de grands designers, dont Philippe Starck. Quant au président de La Cornue, il a conçu des cuisinières dont les prix vont de 18 000 à 50 000 euros et qui s’exportent très bien.

LA CRISE RELANCE LA CRÉATION FRANÇAISE

En ce qui concerne la crise, tous sont conscients des difficultés qu’elle génère, mais n’hésitent pas à transformer cette période moins florissante en de réelles opportunités : « la crise est un moyen notamment pour relancer la création française par exemple », a expliqué Thierry Moisset, véritable porte-drapeau d’un label définissant l’origine des produits, un « made in Laguiole ». Alain Némarq a, quant à lui, annoncé la relocalisation d’une grande partie de sa production, dans des ateliers lyonnais, pour l’été 2013. Xavier Dupuy enfin, a choisi de développer son histoire plus que centenaire au-delà des frontières en s’implantant en Chine et en Corée par des ouvertures de boutiques à venir.

Canadian Jeweller B: 9.25 X 11.125in T: 9 x 10.875in L: 8.5 x 10.375

EPHRAIM ZION of Dehres Limited handles more diamonds in a day than most people see in a lifetime. Here he discusses the power of reputation, global diamond investment and why a GIA report is vital to any business built on integrity.

What’s something most people don’t know about your job? It’s the only business in the world conducted on trust. You sell 1 to 5 million dollars just on the telephone, without even a signature.

A diamond dealer’s most valuable asset? Reputation. Yes, you need a sense of artistic value and a knack for design, but the most essential part is integrity. You can’t survive without it.

What has doing business in Hong Kong taught you about the Asian market? It’s one of the strongest in the world. Every day, there are new millionaires and new businesses. Asians are very investment-conscious. Diamonds are safer and more profitable than money in a bank.

All-time favorite purchase? Most recently, a 100+ ct. D FL. Incredible brilliance and scintillation. Such a beauty. People fell down when they saw it. Did it arrive with a grading report? Ha, ha. GIA, of course. What responsible businessman, with a good reputation and name, would sell a diamond For details, write #102 on Free Info Page, page 136

without a GIA report?

Why is a GIA evaluation so important to one’s reputation? It’s the most reliable, authentic, dependable gem institute in the world. People know that, especially in the Far East. Remember what I said about reputation? A GIA report is crucial.

Business words to the wise? Selling is an idea game. The more knowledge you have, the more confidence you feel.

GIA gratefully acknowledges those who, for 80 years, have used our resources to further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.EDU For details, write #121 on Free Info Page, page 168.

cj enfrançais

A gauche: La première édition de « Cité du luxe », organisée par l'École internationale de marketing du luxe (EIML) à Paris, 11 avril, 2013; A droite: Le Salon Mondial de l'Horlogerie et de la Bijouterie BASELWORLD à Bâle, Suisse, avril 2013.

"EN CE QUI CONCERNE LA CRISE, TOUS SONT CONSCIENTS DES DIFFICULTÉS QU’ELLE GÉNÈRE, MAIS N’HÉSITENT PAS À TRANSFORMER CETTE PÉRIODE MOINS FLORISSANTE EN DE RÉELLES OPPORTUNITÉS." Autour de la deuxième table ronde, c’est de la transformation du paysage de la distribution dans le secteur du luxe qu’il a été question. Des représentants du commerce au détail traditionnel, comme Stephan Delannoy, directeur de la vente au détail chez Christofle, ou Romuald Petiteau, directeur de la boutique Valentino, mais aussi des joueurs de premier plan comme Alexandre Murat, le p-dg d’Adamence, ont échangé sur ce sujet, confortés dans leurs propos par de nouveaux acteurs de la distribution comme Yann Rivollan ou Thierry Bisseliche, respectivement fondateurs de The Other Store et de My Pop Up Store. Tous ont été unanimes pour dire qu’une boutique de luxe a comme rôle principal de créer une émotion et de faire vivre une expérience au client. Cependant, à l’ère du commerce électronique, « ils ne souhaitent pas devenir des gardiens de musée », comme le précise Stéphan Delannoy. C’est pourquoi, le multicanal est pleinement d’actualité dans ce secteur. Cohabitation du commerce électronique et de la vente au détail Pour ce qui est de l’avenir, enfin, tous pensent que commerce électronique et détail continueront à cohabiter et à se nourrir l’un l’autre, dans le luxe. Le commerce électronique pénètre d’ailleurs peu à peu la boutique traditionnelle de luxe, renforçant encore l’exclusivité de l’expérience d’achat (reconnaissance du client dès l’entrée dans la boutique via son téléphone intelligent, pour ne citer qu’un exemple).

que le luxe n’a rien à voir avec l’argent, c’est quelque chose d’unique, d’intangible. Ses trois piliers fondamentaux restent la compétence, l’humain et l’esthétique. Tous les regards des intervenants se sont ensuite portés vers les fameux « BRIC »(Brésil, Russie, Inde, Chine), qui sont devenus les thèmes de prédilection du luxe, avec en pole position la Chine. On aurait, en d’autres temps, dû dire l’Asie, car il y a aussi Hong Kong, Singapour, Taïwan et Macao qui, aux dires du responsable Asie du groupe Richemont, est le meilleur emplacement mondial pour ouvrir des boutiques, mais ce sera pour une prochaine « Cité du luxe ». Bref, le client cible, à l’unanimité, c’est le Chinois. Philippe Tournaire, qui fait un malheur en Chine avec sa bague French Kiss - une tour Eiffel ornée d’un diamant -, fait remarquer que c’est le romantisme français qui plaît avant tout aux asiatiques. La dernière question à laquelle tous les invités ont dû répondre était : « Quelle est la ville qui symbolise le mieux le luxe ? ». A l’unisson, sauf une voix, tous ont cité Paris. En effet,Thierry Moisset a démontré avec des arguments imparables que c’était... Laguiole. Pour connaître le pourquoi de la chose, le mieux est de le contacter, ou d’attendre la deuxième « Cité du luxe ». CJ

Aux Etats-Unis notamment, les marques de luxe développent actuellement le « showrooming », qui consiste à considérer le point de vente uniquement comme un endroit pour manier des objets en magasin, l’acte d’achat se faisant ensuite sur Internet. Enfin, la soirée s’est terminée par une troisième table ronde dont le thème était « Les nouvelles tendances de consommation dans le luxe ». Martine Leherpeur, fondatrice du cabinet de tendances éponyme ; Michel Chevalier, auteur du livre « Luxury China » ; André Devillers, directeur marketing et commercial du Mandarin Oriental joaillier Philippe Tournaire; Sylvain Rouffaud, directeur commercial d’Europassistance (en charge des clients Visa Infinity) ; et Thierry Ternon, responsable de la relation client chez Parnasse (service VIP d’Orange), en étaient les invités. Durant cet échange, les intervenants ont parlé de la reconnaissance client, ce « petit plus » qui fait la différence dans le luxe. Ils ont précisé

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company profile

From humble beginnings to global influence

Under the leadership of Efraim Grinberg and his late father Gerry, Movado Group, Inc. has reached an impressive level of international recognition and respect. By Irina Lytchak FOR SOMEONE WHO HAS BEEN CREDITED WITH HELPING TO GROW Movado Group, Inc. into the global empire it is today, Efraim Grinberg is

very humble about his role in the company. “I try to be a coach and a leader and to give our team the tools that they need to be successful,” says Grinberg, chairman and CEO of Movado Group, Inc. “But really, they’re the ones who execute the vision for this company all around the world.” Movado Group designs, manufactures and markets Movado, EBEL, Concord, ESQ Movado, Coach, HUGO BOSS, Lacoste, Juicy Couture, Tommy Hilfiger and Scuderia Ferrari branded watches worldwide. Founded by Gedalio (Gerry) Grinberg in 1961, the company was founded under the moniker Piaget Watch Company. By 1967, the name changed to North American Watch Company and, while having a strong focus on distributing watches for Swiss manufacturers, the company

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would go on to acquire labels like Ebel and Concord. Upon taking on the Movado brand in 1983, the company name finally became Movado Group. Gerry Grinberg has been credited with changing the American way of thinking when it came to watches. Forbes magazine wrote that he “made the glint of gold on a male wrist a status symbol.” Grinberg passed away in 2009, leaving behind a tremendous legacy to the watch world – and to his son, Efraim, who came on board in 1980. “I came [to Movado Group, Inc.] right out of college, and the company at that time didn’t have Movado, but we were a watch distribution company,” says the younger Grinberg. “It had been part of my family and when I started; it was a really small company. We had under 100 employees and you did everything you had to do in many different areas.”

Above, left to right: Movado Men’s Circa chronograph, 42mm stainless steel case, Swiss quartz chronograph movement, $995; EBEL Onde, 30mm stainless steel case set with diamonds, $5,950; Movado Thin Classic watch, 40mm stainless steel case, black dial with silver indexes, $1,195

I think we really focused on partnering with the brands that we represent to stay true to their DNA and stay true to their heritage. EMPHASIS ON INNOVATION

Today, Movado Group employs over 1,000 people around the world. The name change in the 1980s came as a result of focusing on the company’s most substantial brand at the time. “After we got out of the distribution business, we really focused on building our own brands,” says Grinberg. “We decided to name the company around our strongest brand, Movado. And today, in the Movado Group, we have 10 different brands.” But success didn’t just fall out of the sky for an over $510-million company like Movado Group. Grinberg says the firm constantly strives to excel in design and innovation, partly as a result of the 2008 global recession. “We realized that we had to put even more emphasis on innovation,” he says. “Consumers were going to be much more critical and much more challenging in how they bought, so we invested a great deal in that. I think we’re really thrilled with the design team that we’ve built and we spent a lot of effort and time focusing on making sure that we’re doing the cutting edge in design.”

STANDING APART

Cutting edge design is just one of the factors that sets Movado Group apart in an industry that’s full of watch and jewellery companies trying to make a name for themselves. Upon acquiring the various names the company carries today, its top priority was to ensure that these brands didn’t get lost in the shuffle. “I think we really focused on partnering with the brands that we represent to stay true to their DNA and stay true to their heritage,” says Grinberg. “We also have a very broad assortment of brands across a diverse portfolio of price points.” Movado Group continues to push its brands by being a top contender at shows like JCK Las Vegas and Baselworld, where Grinberg says the level of reception from other jewellers this year was astounding. The company also places very high value on its staff and the people behind the scenes who make it all possible. “One of the things we’ve always focused on as a company is trying to be a great place for people to work at and a place that people want to come to work at,” says Grinberg. “We also wanted to be a company that gives back. So we’ve been very involved globally, but especially in the U.S. by supporting the arts. We try to instill that not only corporately but also in our employees, that we want to give back to society.” CANADIANJEWELLER.COM / AUGUST 2013

company profile

Left to right: Extra-large Movado BOLD watch, 46mm gray ion-plated titanium case and textured matte dark blue dial, $695; ESQ Movado Catalyst, 44mm black ion-plated stainless steel case, Swiss quartz chronograph movement, $595; Concord Saratoga, 42mm black PVD treated stainless steel case, anthracite dial, Swiss chronograph movement, $3,000

I believe if you continue to work hard, to focus on what you need to do, and to execute your plans and your visions, you’re always going to continue to move forward. PICKING UP ON TRENDS

Grinberg has had a hand in leading the global watch giant for several years now, which has given him quite a bit of insight into how watch trends and styles evolve. “The one thing that I’ve actually seen over the last few years is that when a new trends comes, often it doesn’t make the old trend disappear, which is because of the growth of the fashion watch business,” says Grinberg. “Consumers are now used to having multiple watches. They’ll say, ‘One day I’m in the mood to wear my big watch, today I’m in the mood to wear my smaller watch. Or one day, I’m going to wear my ultra-thin dress watch and then another day I’m going to wear my 46mm chronograph.’” Grinberg believes that in the next little while we will continue to see the prevalent trend of oversized watches for women. “I think the ‘boyfriend’ watches are going to continue getting bigger,” he says. “And even though you’re going to see an increased level of femininity in watches, a lot of them are still going to be quite large.”

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LOOKING AHEAD

Being a true leader when it comes to trends, Movado Group is set on unveiling a wide range of new products through each of its brands. “In each of our licensed brands, we have really exciting product coming in the pipeline this year,” Grinberg says. “We’ve upped our game over the last few years, and we’ve seen the results of that.” As for the man behind the brand, Grinberg says working with great people and beautiful merchandise on a daily basis is what makes his job so enjoyable. “I believe if you continue to work hard, to focus on what you need to do, and to execute your plans and your visions, you’re always going to continue to move forward,” he says. “The product is always evolving and fashion always changes and that’s what keeps it really interesting for me. That can keep you very passionate in this business for a long time.” CJ

AFTER THE FLOOD

When Austen Jewellers was destroyed in the devastating Alberta floods, a jewellery buying group urged its members to lend a hand. The response has been awe-inspiring. By Irina Lytchak

IN JUNE 2013, heavy rains and extensive flooding across the province of Alberta impacted many communities and forced thousands of people from their homes. The provincial government described the damage caused by the torrential downpours as the worst in Alberta’s history. One of the most heavily affected areas was High River. All 13,000 residents of the small town south of Calgary were ordered to evacuate on June 20th. Among the hundreds of displaced people and damaged businesses in High River was Austen Jewellers, a family business specializing in diamond and jewellery retail for 24 years. Wayne Austen, owner of Austen Jewellers, remembers June 20th quite clearly, recalling how the flash floods forced the water to blow out all of the store’s window displays and carry the jewellery cases out into the middle of the mall. “The waters took everything,” says Austen. “There were no windows, no doors, no showcases, no counters. It took everything out.” Fortunately, Austen and his family were able to salvage much of the jewellery and place it into a vault for their customers. However, the storm couldn’t have come at a worse time; the store had undergone renovations just a few months earlier.

GETTING SUPPORT

Since the disaster, the store has been stripped bare and cleaned out to make way for a restoration process. In the meantime, Austen has set up a temporary location in a trailer supplied by his insurance company, Western Financial, who has been supportive throughout the ordeal. But the most amazing support came via the Canadian Jewellery Group, the country’s largest jewellery buying group of independent retail

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jewellers. The group notified its members about what had happened to one of its own and, according to Austen, the emails and phone calls have been pouring in ever since. “Every supplier and every other member [of the CJG] has been so supportive,” he says. “They’ve been emailing and calling, sending donations, good wishes, stock and showcases. It’s truly amazing. It’s just overwhelming.”

AMAZING RESPONSE

Beth Saunders, general manager of the CJG, says that after she received a phone call from Austen notifying her of the situation, she sent out an email to all of the CJG members, asking if anyone could help out. “We had an amazing response from suppliers and retail members,” says Saunders. “I knew that the group members would come together. It’s been an overwhelming response. It really, truly has, and it just goes to show that they really do consider each other family and help out. It’s been tremendous.” Saunders says that this has been one of the remarkable benefits of belonging to a group like the CJG – knowing that there are people and companies in the industry who care. “The flood was such a devastation,” she says. “I can’t imagine what [the Austens] must have thought when they looked at that store… it’s just a nightmare. But the industry as a whole has been very supportive and it’s so great to see.” The date to reopen Austen Jewellers remains indefinite as crews continue to repair the extensive damage across the province. CJ

Steve Turac steve@turacluxury.com (514) 771-7469

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cover story

Oshawa Jewellery: A Love Story

Rachel Berdugo’s journey from Israeli kibbutz to Canadian jewellery store has the makings of a great novel: adventure, drama and true grit. But it’s love – for a man, a country and an industry – that is the heart of this story. By Janine Druery PORTRAITS by ANDREJ KOPAC

Oshawa Jewellery Inc.

may have opened its doors in 1983, but its origins go back long before then, to a time and a place far from its address in the small Southern Ontario city of Oshawa. It starts about 45 years ago and approximately 6,000 miles away on collective farm called a ‘kibbutz’ in Israel. There, a young woman named Rachel Berdugo (sent there at age nine after her father died and her mother was left to raise three children) fell in love with a handsome, Moroccan-born soldier named Samuel. Rachel, who today owns and operates Oshawa Jewellery with her son Tally, was swept off her feet by the older, world-wise Samuel, who soon after asked her mother’s permission to bring Rachel to Canada and begin a new life. Young and in love, with only $10 in her pocket, clothes unfit for a Canadian winter, and no English language skills, Rachel made the move across the world in December 1968 and, as they say, never looked back. “I can still remember coming out of the plane and seeing the vastness of Canada, and the cars, and it was cold,” says Rachel, who took odd jobs, and upgraded her education in London, Ontario while her husband studied to become an electrical engineer. “And I soon realized that the milk and honey is in this beautiful country.”

Left: Tally, Rachel and Samuel Berdugo

RETURN TO THE PROMISED LAND

It wasn’t until returning to visit her family in Israel in 1974 with newborn son Tally in tow that she considered a career in jewellery. A relative in the business entrusted her with pieces worth about $10,000, which she promptly wrapped up in baby diapers and brought to Canada (then Sault Ste. Marie). She started hosting wine, cheese and jewellery parties with a good friend and had some fun with it until her friend moved to Vancouver to open her own jewellery store. Several years later, after Rachel and Samuel moved to Oshawa, the same friend came in for a jewellery show. Rachel joined her at the event, met people in the industry, and soon after flew to Vancouver to “absorb, sponge and learn” so she could begin her own business back home. “Samuel gave me our life savings, which was $33,000, and by the time I built the showcases and bought a few chains, I didn’t have any more money for anything else,” she recalls. Always enterprising and tenacious, she went to see a diamond wholesaler and asked him for some merchandise to sell. Then she went to a gold wholesaler and so on, managing to amass a fair bit of inventory to sell in a small shop she opened in downtown Oshawa in 1983. It was then that Oshawa Jewellery was born. “On the weekends I worked the flea market with my two little suitcases,” says Rachel, who also spent a lot of time standing on the street handing out pamphlets and arranging jewellery parties for local women. CANADIANJEWELLER.COM / AUGUST 2013

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“I’ve got chutzpah. I decided to open the store and I actually did it.” – Rachel Berdugo

MEETING HER MENTOR

In 1992, after working long hours and battling the politics of the business, Rachel met a man who would ultimately become her mentor. That man was Aruj Arkarakis from Master Design, a jewellery manufacturer, who put his trust in her. He gave her a briefcase full of merchandise, told her to sell it and to pay him later. “I thought there are people who care in this world,” says Rachel. “He wanted me to succeed. I felt it.” This was how she put herself on the map and got ready to open up a store at the Oshawa Centre, the biggest mall in the city. “To move to the mall was a big, big challenge,” she says. “I’m ethnic, I’m a woman, I have a private business and there I was in a mall with all of these flagship stores like Birks, Peoples, Eaton’s.” But despite the challenges, and despite the fact that the store previously belonged to Bell Canada and was all “cement, wire and steel,” it was hers and she was happy. “I’ve got chutzpah,” laughs Rachel. “I decided to open the store and I actually did it.”

ALL IN THE FAMILY

Fast forward to 2013 and the store is a much different place. It has been redesigned to be a warm, welcoming place, and Rachel co-owns it with her son Tally Berdugo. While Tally went to university for commerce and business, he grew up around the jewellery store and eventually decided to make it his career. “I saw a lot of places where I could apply what I learned in school to our business,” says Tally, who put in the store's inventory control system. “The business was growing and really needed some systems in place to allow us to grow and manage the business properly. I figured I would rather work hard for my family and at least any benefits I could have on the business went to my folks instead of some big business.” Other family members are also involved in the store. Rachel’s husband of 45 years, Samuel – who she calls “my gem, my rock” – is now retired and helps her out. And her daughter Liora is also in the business; she works as a designer for Tacori in Los Angeles, and her

husband Avi is a diamond supplier for Tacori. "It’s like a comedy show in here every day,” says Tally. “Rachel and I have a lot of fun and get the job done – hopefully well – in the process! Samuel keeps us in check too, as well as doing a lot of the back office work such as inventory and managing the accounts. We are all good at different aspects of the business and I believe we have a sort of synergy in our work.” In addition to actual relatives, Rachel says her staff is like family to her. She sends them all for training and makes an effort to learn about their lives. She even feeds them! “My devoted team humbles me every day with their willingness to deliver and give our customers such a great service and a feel-good sales experience,” she says. “They are truly my extended family and they allow me to enjoy my success.”

STRONG CUSTOMER FOCUS

Oshawa Jewellery carries an array of high-end jewellery and timepiece brands such as Tacori, Simon G., Scott Kay, Thomas Sabo, Gucci, TAG Heuer and Tissot. They also do custom work, appraising and repairs. They use a combination of new technology including CAD/CAM design techniques and old-world techniques (with an expert goldsmith on the premises) to create the custom jewellery. “That’s what sets us aside from anybody else in the mall,” says Rachel. “I really like to walk a customer through the design to purchase process,” says Tally. “I always try to go over and above a customer's expectations and get a lot of joy from seeing their reactions to a wellmade custom job!” And their commitment to customer service is second to none. “My mantra and my philosophy is that I’m going to treat everyone so well – anyone that comes though my threshold is going to be my guest,” says Rachel. Rachel’s mission is to ensure everyone in Oshawa has beautiful jewellery at a fair price. Although Oshawa is a bedroom community of

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM / AUGUST 2013

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AT A GLANCE: Name: Oshawa Jewellery Inc. Owners: Rachel Berdugo and Tally Berdugo Location: Oshawa Centre mall in Oshawa, Ontario Store Size: 1,800 square feet Staff: 31 employees Known For: High-end brands, custom design, appraisals, repairs Brands: Tacori, Simon G., Scott Kay, Thomas Sabo, Gucci, TAG Heuer, Tissot, etc. What’s New: Recently opened a Pandora store in the mall Cool Factor: Rachel Berdugo’s unbridled enthusiasm

about 150,000 people, approximately 60 km from Toronto, she wants to ensure people there don’t have to go to the bigger city to get top-notch merchandise. So she makes sure not to overlook any detail. “Everything leaves here with the Oshawa paper and the Oshawa ribbon and the Oshawa feel-good. And if I need to deliver it personally, I’ll do it. And if you have an anniversary, I’ll send you flowers.” Tally notes that he has a much different approach than Rachel. “We are a good team – she is good with the more emotional side of selling and I am great with numbers, technical stone aspects, CAD-CAM and other details.”

WHAT’S NEXT

It’s been a winning combination thus far. And Rachel and Tally are starting to expand the business. In June, they opened a new Pandora shop in the mall and are looking forward to running that. “Pandora became a successful brand for us,” notes Rachel. “We were doing so well at 120 feet so opened 850 square feet across the hall.” And while Rachel dreams of opening her own complex that would offer those in Oshawa the best of everything, from food to clothing to accessories, for now it is just a dream. Her feet are firmly planted on the ground at Oshawa Jewellery, and she is very happy there. “No life plan could have prepared me for this amazing vocation,” she says. “I’m a jeweller, self-employed, and every day I feel blessed to be able to share my passion for the jewellery business.” CJ

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM / AUGUST 2013

designer profile

PLAYING FAIR

Ryan Taylor of Fair Trade Jewellery Co. has not only co-founded a distinctive jewellery enterprise, he is working hard to help the industry evolve in terms of ethics, sustainability and community. By Sarah B. Hood SOME PEOPLE DISCOVER THEIR CAREERS; others are born with them.

For Ryan Taylor, it’s been a little of both. His fascination with the raw materials of jewellery design has led him to not only create a unique business, but to spearhead an ethical supply resource that may benefit jewellery designers across the country. The co-founder (with Robin Gambhir) of Toronto-based Fair Trade Jewellery Co., Taylor was born into a mining family from Sudbury, Ontario. He grew up with “precious metals in the blood,” he says; however, his career path led him first into the tech industry and then into sculpture. From there, “jewellery seemed like a good lateral step from sculpture,” says Taylor. After graduating from the Jewellery Arts program at George Brown College, he apprenticed with German Master Goldsmith Karl Vigelius,

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a step that would prove critical to his career. “Karl, to this day, is one of my best friends and a big part of what I do,” Taylor says. “That time spent with someone much my senior in a master-apprentice relationship is a very special thing that’s unique to this industry.” His first studio, opened while he was still a student, was located near Yonge and Dundas in Toronto. It was there that he first began to ask questions about the sources of the precious metals and gemstones he was working with. “Thus was born this company,” he says.

ETHICALLY-SOURCED

Today, Fair Trade Jewellery Co., which is founded on the principle of using ethically-sourced metals and stones, occupies a bright Victorian storefront with exposed brick walls, which, Taylor proudly points out, he

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designer profile

Left to right: Mis-Shape Band; The world’s first Fairtrade certified cross

We buy directly from the mines. Those parcels are segregated and tracked either through the Fairmined Standard or the Fairtrade Standard. remodelled with his team, using as much reclaimed building material as possible. The shop is nestled on a cosy retail strip frequented by artists, journalists and cyclists. This may not sound like the target demographic for a higher-end custom jewellery shop, but, says Taylor, “They’re very progressive, smart, educated, well read on current affairs, and those are the people who, when they come in here for a ring or custom project, they get it. This neighbourhood has been fantastic for us to grow in.” Having his studio in the back of the same space allows Taylor to offer clients a tour of his manufacturing quarters, which fits with the collaborative nature of many of his creations. “We had a gentleman fly up from Chicago just to build his ring with us,” Taylor says, “because nobody else would let him take part in the process. That’s what we’re about.” Besides Taylor, who handles production design, and Gambhir, who is mainly concerned with the business administration, Fair Trade also employs Karl Vigelius, as well as one custom designer, a retail manager and an apprentice. The backbone of the business is the custom work; the selection of other pieces offered in the retail shop are all designed

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and manufactured in-house. “That’s why it’s so important to have someone like Karl in the house,” Taylor says. “He can look at a sketch and be able to articulate it and also communicate it to those who are doing the work.”

DIRECT FROM THE MINES

Taylor says the company aesthetic is “very European.” Among the names that he admires and looks to for inspiration are Graff, Chopard, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Cartier, but Taylor finds his main creative inspiration in the material itself. “We work exclusively with 18 karat palladium (PD) weight gold. We also don’t plate our jewellery,” he says. “Pure palladium can’t be sourced through Fairtrade. We used it as a recycled resource.” This dedication to ethical sourcing really sets the company apart. “We buy directly from the mines,” he says. “Those parcels are segregated and tracked either through the Fairmined Standard or the Fairtrade Standard. We were the first in North America to use and make with Fairtrade gold, and the second in the world, next to Chopard, to be a licensee and manufacturer offering Fairmined gold.”

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designer profile

Left to right: Contour Tension-set engagement ring; Star Sign Ring with 1ct Sirius Star diamond

The industry’s evolved more in the last 10 years than it has in 1,000 years, in terms of ethics, sustainability and community. These standards resonate strongly in the bridal and engagement category. “It’s still a piece of jewellery with a ton of meaning behind it,” says Taylor. “Shouldn’t it be extra special?” he says. “It is the ultimate symbol of love and lifeline commitment; if the materials betray that message, I think that’s intellectually and spiritually inconsistent.” Taylor serves as a director with the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), and a co-director of its Standards Committee. He sits as an observer on the Fairmined Standards Committee and is part of the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD) Gold Working Group. “I have done presentations and workshops with the U.S. State Department on conflict minerals,” he adds. “Not bad for a kid from Toronto, eh?”

INDUSTRY EVOLVING

To back up the company’s ethical sourcing claims, Fair Trade is certified through the RJC for both its retail and manufacturing operations and is also certified as a B (“Benefit”) Corporation. “B allows us to do put ourselves up against companies like Ben and Jerry’s and Patagonia,”

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Taylor says. “So we can say that what our website says is backed up by a third-party authority.” Fair Trade is now launching a new supply resource called Fair Sources to distribute Fairtrade and Fairmined gold and silver in collaboration with a refiner in France. It will offer semi mounts, wedding bands and casting grains, possibly bundled with other services, because “We believe in this ethical sourcing, and the way to get it to scale is to get other people to start using it,” Taylor says. “I’m looking forward to the next 20 years,” he continues. “The industry’s evolved more in the last 10 years than it has in 1,000 years, in terms of ethics, sustainability and community. We see a lot more jewellers starting to adopt these progressive standards, and there’s a lot of opportunity for small companies to get involved in this discussion.” When he first became a jeweller, Taylor confesses, he was somewhat fearful of the trade he’d jumped into. Now, however he says, “I’ve come full circle. I can say with some confidence that we’re moving into a good place.” CJ

a gem of an event in the perfect setting

Join Jewellers Vigilance Canada at our annual ball:

SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2013 Arcadian Court, 401 Bay Street #8, Toronto

• Cocktails and silent auction starting at 6:30pm

• Dinner and dancing at 8:00pm

TICKETS ARE $375.00 PER PERSON + HST | BLACK TIE EVENT WITH VALET PARKING

For more information call 416.368.4840 or 800.636.9536, or email info@jewellersvigilance.ca Jewellers Vigilance Canada | An independent, non-profit association to advance ethical practices within the Canadian jewellery industry. C R I M E P R E V E N T I O N • R E S O U R C E P R OT E C T I O N • S A F E T Y AWA R E N E S S

company profile

From Mumbai to Vancouver

Dhiren Shah’s route into the jewellery business wasn’t an easy road. However, the founder of Genius Diamond Ltd. says the entrepreneurial spirit is in his DNA. By Sarah B. Hood “YOU HAVE TO KNOW A LOT TO KNOW what you don’t need to know,”

says Dhiren Shah, founder of the relatively young Genius Diamond Ltd., based in Vancouver. He has clearly learned a lot already, since (unlike many diamond companies) his own business is not a long-established concern. In fact, Shah took an unusual route into the jewellery industry. “This is not a family business as such, but business was always in the family,” he says. “Business was in my background, and being an entrepreneur was always in my DNA.” In his youth, he learned a lot about sales through working with his father. “Right from my early teens and on, I was in sales, going with my father in textiles,” he says. “I was a young age to go along, but I was learning how my father used to negotiate and deal with things.”

INTEREST IN THE SPIRITUAL

Shah did not originally intend to go into jewellery as his main field of business. He arrived in Canada as an immigrant about 10 years ago, but the story of Genius Diamonds extends further back to Mumbai, India, where he was raised. “I was interested in spiritual things,” he says; this led him in the early 1990s to study the spiritual properties of stones, such as the Navaratnas, a set of nine gemstones that are held in Vedic texts and Indian astrology to have special properties for influencing human life. “I started being interested in crystals and gemstones. I wanted to know more in detail about these things, and that was how I got interested in gemmology. That helped me understand more in detail how the diamond and gemstone business worked,” he explains. Shah embarked on an intensive self-directed educational path. “I was always interested to learn something new. I was a quick learner, and I was good in my gemmology,” he says. He knew he would have to learn from the ground up. “I was a rookie in the business at that time,” he admits. “You have to start everything from scratch.” So Shah began “working for free as an intern in somebody’s business. I started sorting diamonds 10 hours a day, seven days a week.”

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At the same time, he pursued formal training through the GIA (Gemological Institute of America). “That helped me as a good foundation for my career,” he says. “It took me about eight or nine years while I was basically learning the trade from the streets over there. It’s always good to have the formal training, but knowing the practical things is also important.”

CANADIAN DIAMONDS

By the late 1990s, he was excelling at his studies, and was offered a job as a teacher by the Gemological Institute of India. He taught from about 1997 to 2002, when, he says, he started to hear a lot of talk about Canadian diamonds; that they were among the world’s best in purity, and that they were attracting the attention of buyers who wanted to distance themselves from conflict diamonds. Shah decided it was time to get some “hands-on” experience with Canadian diamonds so, in 2003, came as an immigrant to Canada. “Like any other immigrant, you come with a lot of dreams,” he says. “My training helped me get a job in one of the chain stores in Vancouver. I worked there as a manager for about a year and learned about the Canadian consumer's needs.” Soon afterwards, he moved into a job grading and appraising for EGL (European Gemological Laboratories). “Then I took a job with a wholesale company doing sales and purchasing for them,” he says. It was at that point that he began to think: “It’s about time that I start my own business.”

Pendants: Theme Pendants Collection Rings: Love Mates Bridal Designs

"It’s always good to have the formal training, but knowing the practical things is also important." – Dhiren Shah ELEMENTS OF STYLE

In June 2012, he opened Genius Diamond Ltd. In Vancouver with his wife, a web designer who had previously been involved in the jewellery wholesaling business in Vancouver. “We manufacture, we customize, we wholesale jewellery,” says Shah. “We do a few bridal lines, a few men’s lines and lines of necklaces, bangles and bracelets.” Shah says the common thread is the basic elements of style shared by all the collections. “We have factories in India and China,” he says, adding that one of the company’s tenets is “quality workmanship at an affordable price.” A strong part of his business plan is to maintain international connections. “Global presence is one of the strategies we are trying to apply,” he says. In addition to Vancouver, Genius has offices in New York, Tokyo, Mumbai and Hong Kong. Shah says he finds the Canadian workplace quite different than the

environment he learned about from his father. “There is a big difference in mentality when you do business in India as opposed to doing business in North America,” he says. “When you come to North America, there’s an easier way of doing business. Business here is very simple, in a way. Genius Diamond may be a young company, but Shah has an optimistic outlook for his business as well as for the industry in general. “As far as gold and diamonds is concerned, it’s an ongoing market,” he says. “The fundamentals of the diamond industry remain strong. There’s growing demand in Asia and strong demand in North America.” In the future, he says, “I see growth for us mostly in manufacturing and customizing a lot of product lines. There are some other things that we are presently working on: patented technologies that we will release early next year that will help us to have a more secure and stronger market.” Meanwhile, it’s clear that the learning has paid off, and Shah appears to have figured out exactly what he doesn’t need to know. CJ CANADIANJEWELLER.COM / AUGUST 2013

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2013 Categories EntryForm Form 2012 Categoriesand and Entry

2013 Categories 2012 CATEGORIES 1. DIAMONDS & COLOURED DIAMONDS: Any piece of jewellery that puts diamonds or coloured diamonds in the spotlight. Each design mustAny have a minimum ofor1coloured carat. diamonds in the spotlight. 1. DIAMONDS & COLOURED DIAMONDS: piece of jewellerydiamond that putscontent diamonds Each design must have a minimum diamond content of 1 carat.

2. CANADIAN DIAMONDS: Show Canadian diamonds in a magnificent jewellery design. Entries must feature Canadian diamonds and 2. CANADIAN DIAMONDS: Show Canadian diamonds in a magnificent jewellery design. Entries must feature Canadian diamonds and be accompanied by be accompanied by certification attesting to each diamondâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Canadian origin. Smaller accent stones need not be Canadian. For assistance in certification attesting to each diamondâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Canadian origin. Smaller accent stones need not be Canadian. working with a Canadian diamond supplier, please contact norma@thergmgroup.net 3. PEARLS: Let natural pearls dominate as the central design element. Other gemstones and diamonds can be used as accent stones.

3. PEARLS: Let natural pearls dominate as the central design element. Other gemstones and diamonds can be used as accent stones.

4. PLATINUM: The overall metal content of these designs must be a minimum of 75 percent platinum, but any combination of gemstones and gold may be used.

4. PLATINUM: overall metalrun content these designs must be a minimum of 75 percent platinum, 5. COLOURED GEMSTONES: The Let your creativity wild inofthis category which features coloured gemstones as the central design element. but any combination of be gemstones andcriterion. gold may be used. Creativity will a key judging 6. RAISING5.STAR AWARD: Open and recent of a category Canadian which jewellery designcoloured program, gemstones emerging designers are to jewellery design COLOURED GEMSTONES: Letstudents your creativity rungraduates wild in this features encouraged to express their creativity with a design using materials of their choosing.

as the central design element. Creativity will be a key judging criterion.

To find out how you can become a sponsor of you this can prestigious event, please contact Felicioevent, at olivier@rivegauchemedia.com To find out how become a sponsor of thisOlivier prestigious 416-203-7900 X 6107. or call 416-203-7900 x 6135. please contact Zinnia Crawfordor atcall zinnia@thergmgroup.net For complete details on how to enter your design, contact Norma Meneguzzi Spall at norma.m@sympatico.ca or 416-686-9110

For complete details on how to enter yourFonseca design, atcontact Norma Meneguzzi Spall at norma@thergmgroup.net or 416-686-9110 or Henry henry@gorgmgo.com or 416-203-7900, xt 6127. or Erin Poredos at erin@gorgmgo.com or 416-203-7900 x 6128. Entry deadline is July 7th, 2012, 5 p.m.

*Enter online as well at www.canadianjeweller.com

Entry deadline is September 13 , 2013 at 5:00 p.m. *Entry form can also be downloaded at www.canadianjeweller.com th

ENTER CANADIAN JEWELLER’S EXCELLENCE IN DESIGN COMPETITION Please print legibly: DESIGNER’S NAME (as you would like it to appear on the award if selected) ___________________________________________________________________________ COMPANY OR STUDENT AFFILIATION (as you would like it to appear on the award if selected) ____________________________________________________________________ ADDRESS_______________________________CITY_____________________________ PROVINCE______________________________ POSTAL CODE____________________ PHONE_________________________________ FAX______________________________ EMAIL ADDRESS___________________________________________________________ CATEGORY________________________________________________________________ TYPE OF JEWELLERY___________________ VALUE OF DESIGN (SPECIFY RETAIL OR MATERIALS) _________________________________________________________________ Describe the piece, including metal used and karat value, gemstone types, weights, cuts and colour. (Complex designs should be accompanied by technical details.) _____________________________________________________________________________ _____________________________________________________________________________ _____________________________________________________________________________ ENCLOSED ARE: MY FINISHED PIECE(S) OF JEWELLERY. AN ENTRY FEE OF $30 (CHEQUE CAN BE MADE PAYABLE TO THE RGM GROUP) I understand the entry rules and regulations and I abide by those terms. SIGNATURE ____________________________________________________ SEND ENTRY ALONG WITH A COMPLETED FORM TO: Excellence in Design, The RGM Group., 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON M4W 3B8

RULES, REGULATIONS AND INFORMATION • Jewellery must have been designed and made in Canada. • Jewellery must incorporate precious metals and must adhere to the criteria set out in each category. • All gemstones must be natural. Synthetics are not permitted. Students may substitute CZ for diamonds. • One submission per designer, per category. • Contestant assumes all liability for designs and jewellery submitted. Although we will take reasonable precautions while the jewellery is in our possession, Canadian Jeweller cannot be responsible for insuring the jewellery. • We suggest you extend your own policy to cover your piece or pieces for loss, theft or damage for the duration of the competition. • In each category, three finalists will be selected. Judges will then choose an overall winner in each category. • To enter, submit finished jewellery, an entry form and a $30 fee for each package. • Entries will be returned by a courier at the expense of the designer. To arrange for the return, please contact a Canadian Jeweller representative at (416) 203-7900 x 6128. • Entry deadline is September 13, 2013, 5p.m. • Winning entries and all information provided about the entries may be used for promotional purposes. Slides, renderings and other reproductions of the

designs, as well as press releases, will also be used for this purpose. • Entries will be judged on the basis of originality, creativity, beauty, wearability and quality of workmanship. Consideration will also be given to marketability. • Contestants agree to hold Canadian Jeweller, The RGM Group., and its employees and representatives, etc., harmless from any and all claims, litigation and other legal proceedings. • Judging of all entries will take place during October 2013. Up to three finalists in each category will be selected. • The winning designs will be announced at the JVC Jewellers’ Ball to be held in Toronto on November 16th, 2013. • Entries not selected as a finalist will be returned to the designer in October 2013. • The judging process is confidential and the judges’ decision is final.

135th year retrospective

Canadian Jeweller through the

135th

TO HELP MARK OUR 135TH ANNIVERSARY, Canadian Jeweller is taking a

look back at the amazing transformations of the magazine and the jewellery world in the past 135 years. In the June/July issue, we examined our modest beginnings in the late 1800s and early 1900s. In this installment we explore the Arts and Crafts Movement and the Roaring Twenties…

Ages By Irina Lytchak and Marielle Torrefranca

THE

1910S

In history: The Arts and Crafts Movement lasted from 1880 to 1910. It focused on employing materials that were significantly less expensive than mainstream Victorian jewellery and was aimed at the middle class. In the magazine: During this time, the magazine (known as The Trader) showcased jewellery sold by Hamilton, Ontario’s A. C. Anderson & Co. The publication focused heavily on advertisements from businesses across Canada. Editorial content and features were not yet a predominant part of the magazine.

FAR RIGHT: LOUIS COMFORT PENDANT FROM TIFFANY & CO., 1915-1920; ABOVE RIGHT: DELICATE ART NOUVEAU ENAMEL GOLD BRACELET IN 14K YELLOW GOLD FROM GEORGIANJEWELRY.COM; RIGHT: RITES OF SPRING: ART NOUVEAU ORCHID BROOCH WITH .05CTS AND 14K YELLOW GOLD FROM GEORGIANJEWELRY.COM

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THE

1920S

In history: The Roaring Twenties were all about modernity jazz, costume jewellery and Coco Chanel. The Art Deco period showed off bright colours and geometric shapes, which complemented the lively music and upbeat lifestyle of the time period. In the magazine: In the 1920s, The Trader branded itself as the “Official Publication of the Canadian Jeweler,” foreshadowing the eventual name change of the magazine. A May 1920 issue featured a fullpage ad with a woman wearing jewellery from Albert Lorsch & Co., while another ad from P.W. Ellis & Co., Limited showcased pocket watches from the legendary Omega brand.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: MAY 1920 COVER OF THE TRADER; ART DECO DIAMOND SAPPHIRE CYLIS WATCH; ALWAYS: PEARL DIAMOND EARRINGS FROM GEORGIANJEWELRY.COM, $1,875; 1920 MAY AD; WM. ROGERS & SONS ADVERTISEMENT FOR SILVERWARE IN THE MAY 1920 COPY OF THE TRADER

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jvc report

FIGHTING BACK

JVC is escalating its fight against crimes in the jewellery industry and encourages all jewellers to get involved. By John Lamont, Director of Crime Prevention, JVC JVC’s Crime Prevention Program has accomplished a great deal over the last 12 years. We are proud of what has become an essential part of protecting jewellery and watch businesses. From the beginning, we engaged law enforcement to assist us in this fight against crime. As John Lamont reports, we have some very good news regarding how law enforcement views our efforts. We welcome their voices and encouragement for our program and we welcome the newest member of JVC’s Advisory Board, Detective Doug Bedford. – Phyllis Richard, Executive Director, JVC AN ANONYMOUS WRITER ONCE WROTE: “Our lives are not determined by what happens to us, but by how we react to what happens; not by what life brings to us, but by the attitude we bring to life. A positive attitude causes a chain reaction of positive thoughts, events, and outcomes. It is a catalyst, a spark that creates extraordinary results.” These are words that those in the jewellery industry should take to heart. Let a spark from a positive attitude cause you to become part of the fight against criminals that target the jewellery business. You don’t have to sit back and take it or feel that this fight is one that can never be won. Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC) is taking on that fight and encourages all jewellers to become involved.

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DOUG BEDFORD ON BOARD To further fight this battle, the York Regional Police and JVC’s Board of Directors have appointed Detective Doug Bedford to the JVC Board as a Loss Prevention advisor. Detective Bedford has been with York Regional Police for 15 years and currently supervises an investigative team in the Organized Crime section, drugs and vice unit. He is a member of the alumni of the York Regional Police Hold Up Squad, where he was the lead investigator on two projects involving South American theft groups targeting the jewellery industry. He has assisted investigators across Canada with these types of investigations.

Detective Bedford has lectured on these organized criminal gangs at the Canadian Police College, as well as the Eastern and Western Robbery conferences, for JVC, COCPA (Central Ontario Crime Prevention Association) and at the RCMP headquarters in Ottawa. Prior to policing, Doug worked as the head of security for A&A Jewellery manufacturers in Toronto. Detective Bedford’s insight regarding what police need to help in the fight against crime has already proved useful. He suggested that police need a central location where all criminal activity against the jewellery industry can be accessed. JVC moved forward with that idea and developed a jewellery crime database. The database is restricted to police as it may contain sensitive information that could compromise an investigation if made public. When an investigating officer seeks the public and industry’s help, the police-only database can be changed into a JVC alert.

NEW POLICE DATABASE When the database was up and running, JVC sought input from police agencies across Canada. Following are some of the written comments from police: DETECTIVE CONSTABLE CAROLINE WIGGLESWORTH, VANCOUVER POLICE: “ I have received some feedback from a number of

investigators and sergeants with respect to the JVC website Crime Listings section as follows: photos and details of the event should be included as often, and in as much detail, as possible. The current search parameters work well. The feedback was given by more than one investigator; the consensus seemed to be that this would be a very helpful site for investigators.” STAFF SERGEANT BRUCE WALKER, CALGARY POLICE: “I found the site to be useful and efficient as it brings all the case files across the country together in one database involving the jewelry industry. This is very beneficial as we see crime trends, suspect MOs and descriptions accessible in real-time fashion. While email alerts are good for communication, the site allows investigators and analysts to check the database for potential suspects for ongoing A D V E R investigations.”

CRIME ANALYST BONNIE SLIWINSKI, PEEL REGIONAL POLICE: “I think

this is an excellent idea. It opens up the lines of communication between law enforcement and the JVC, as well as among police services. I have forwarded this information to the Crime Analysts at our Divisions as well.” CRIME ANALYST CAROL BROWN, WINNIPEG POLICE SERVICE: “I like

the layout and the filters. Due to our volume of crime, anything that group similar crimes together with images that can be scanned through quickly is helpful. Unfortunately, unless there is a trend or pattern to jewellery thefts, thefts do not hit the radar in Crime Analysis but with this website I can scan it quickly to see if it fits in with any of our other crime or refer to previous incidents quickly. Can you add the street to the title?... Anything that helps me filter data at a glance is helpful and I can see if it fits in a pattern. I know the police were working on a project with Manitoba Liquor Commission regarding better security cameras is some of their establishments to provide us with better images. Better quality pictures and better positioning would improve our ability to identify suspects… In summary, yes I would bookmark the website and use it.”

JOIN THE FIGHT JVC is pleased with this feedback and is working to improve this site. It has been suggested that in 60 per cent of crime where the police have received a picture of the subject responsible, that subject is identified. Better pictures need not be expensive to obtain if camera equipment is positioned properly. Members of the jewellery industry can get direction from the Jewelers Mutual website, from JVC and even from their local police. Join this fight. As well as reporting incidents to the police, you can advise JVC. Let’s change our attitudes. To quote U.S. President Barak Obama: “Change will not come if we wait for some other person, or if we wait for some other time. We are the ones we’ve been waiting for. We are the change that we seek.” CJ

showcase

T I S I N G

For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

CJ EXPOS TORONTO BOOTH 609, CJ EXPOS EDMONTON BOOTH 1002, EXPO PRESTIGE MONTREAL BOOTH 704

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from the bench

photo: Dee Fontans

BENCH TIPS FOR JEWELLERS By Charles Lewton-Brain

SAVING SOME MONEY ON EQUIPMENT CAN BE

really helpful to a shop’s bottom line. Often, tools and equipment from other industries are useful – and cheaper. One example is dry pickling acid (you know the ubiquitous brand I mean), which is about the same as sodium bisulfate sold as ‘swimming pool acid’ or ‘PH reducer’ for pools and hot tubs. It is about onefifth the cost of the jeweller's brand. Sodium bisulfate is also the main ingredient in most toilet bowl cleaners and can be bought for around $50 a drum as industrial toilet bowl cleaner. It is important to ‘shift mental categories’, look at how you classify objects, and see if you can reclassify them. For example, chasing tools (which sell for as much as $40 for five on eBay) can be had instead as a staking set. A staking set is a wooden box of 80 to 100 watchmaker’s staking tools (the same thing as chasing tools and easily altered) that sells for $25. Watchmaker's tools are classed as ‘obsolete’ and ‘only for fixing watches,’ but shift mental categories and that box is worth a lot of money. Look for someone (or an industry) who uses so much of something they do not value it. Some examples are as follows:

• The flint wheel from a disposable lighter makes a great carbide steel burr that jewellers would otherwise pay several dollars for. They are made in such large quantities that they can be produced incredibly cheaply. When the lighter is empty, the top can be pried apart and the flint wheel placed on a standard screw mandrel for a flex-shaft to make a carbide burr. It is a rotary file as well as a good texturing tool. • Vibratory tumblers are cheaper at gun shops than jewellery – usually around 30 per cent less. • Institutions use large floor polishing machines with giant round scotch brite pads on the bottom. When mounting onto the machine they punch out a 14cm diameter round disc from the middle of the pad. If you stiffen up the centre with a little epoxy, they are essentially the same scotch brite discs for the polishing machine that jewellers pay up to $10 for. • Delrin metal forming hammers used for anticlastic raising and metalsmithing often cost $38 at jewellery suppliers but are only $17 at auto body supply stores, as they are used to fix dents in cars.

• You can buy round leather dog chews in different diameters at the pet store, cut them in half, drill through them and mount a hammer handle in them to make very inexpensive, good quality leather mallets (particularly small ones). Look for a chew that is solid all the way through, as some will have cavities in them. Two dollars will get you three small mallets. • Titanium wire for making great soldering picks can be had at high-tech bike shops – they use titanium spokes and have bent ones for free. So, providing you take care not to endanger yourself by substituting one thing for another, this kind of scrounging can be really useful in dropping your overhead over the long haul. Remember that efficiency, tool substitution and making more money by reducing time spent and the cost of supplies means critical thinking, examining alternatives and paying attention to what is going on in the workshop. CJ

Charles Lewton-Brain is a goldsmith, author, and educator. He invented fold-forming, a completely new way of working sheet metals, and is the author such jewelry books as Cheap Thrills in the Tool Shop. A co-founder of the Ganoksin project for jewellers (ganoksin.com), he won the Governor General’s Award for Fine Craft in 2012.

Left to right; A small leather mallet made from a dog rawhide dog chew. Larger ones can be found at the pet store; A staking set, with its chasing tools and tool guide; The carbide burr from a lighter and the standard screw mandrel it fits on.

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CJ EDMEXPOS BOOONTON TH 6 21

PLATINA 4

PLATINA 4 is a patented and uniquely innovative combination of four precious metals: SILVER, PALLADIUM, GOLD and PLATINUM.

PLATINA 4 is an attractive and significantly more affordable alternative to gold and more costly metals, for both the retailer and the customer.

www.jewelhousecanada.com 1.866.341.9496 1.604.341.9496 jewelhousecanada@shaw.ca

Jewelhouse Canada

retail watch

AN UNEVEN PLAYING FIELD By Todd Wasylyshyn

FOR “KYLE,” AN ANXIOUS, YOUNG GROOM-TO-BE,

shopping for a diamond ring can be a daunting task. It will likely be the biggest purchase of his young life, and he wants to get the best ‘bang for his hard-earned buck’. We all know that Kyle may have to deal with some inconsistencies in diamond certification along his journey, but is that normal? Do other industries have a slightly uneven playing field? Someone looking for a powerful sport-luxury sedan wants horsepower. In a current television ad, the Cadillac ATS boasts horsepower that is superior to the BMW 328i. Here’s what Car and Driver printed regarding Cadillac’s horsepower: “If the 2.0-litre does in fact make 272 horsepower at 5500 rpm, then it’s only at 5500 rpm. At 5499 and 5501, it feels more like 230.” According to edmunds.com, the BMW outperforms its American-made competitor in 0-60 acceleration and quarter-mile times. Cadillac’s claim may have been true, but that doesn’t tell the whole story. When I started my recent hunt for a keyboard amplifier, I believed having 1,000 watts would be awesome. After much research I learned that “watts” can refer to “peak wattage” or “continuous watts or watts R.M.S.” Had I not done my research, I might have assumed that the 200 (peak) watt amplifier at $400 was a better value than a 200 watt R.M.S. amp at $500. Same description, dissimilar meaning, different value. I have a friend who builds and renovates homes that are highly energy efficient. As we

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discussed standards in the building industry, he pointed-out that when you see R-20 insulation in those tightly bound bundles at Home Depot, you’re seeing that product’s “nominal R-value.” Once placed into the walls of your home, the “effective R-value” might only endup at 13 or 14, due to the framing, electrical outlets and installation. R-20 Spray-foam insulation when properly applied can result in an effective R-value of around 19. So once again, the numerical value is the same, but the benefit-level is different. The auto industry is so highly regulated that a recent “error” in fuel economy claims by Hyundai resulted in a massive fuel rebate program for the duped owners. Each electronic component on the market must have a CSA sticker to ensure accuracy and safety. The Canadian Home Builders Associations sets its own standards high to avoid attracting even more of the onerous government construction regulations. But let’s get back to Kyle. Somewhere in his search for the ideal diamond, he’ll learn about the 4-Cs of diamond quality. Many of the tools such as the ubiquitous diamond quality pyramid, used to explain the 4-Cs, were based on the GIA grading system. When Kyle is presented with a significant price advantage, based on a diamond certification that falls short of those standards, who is there to protect him? We don’t have mandated recall orders, inspectors, or government regulators.

I would like to suggest that the jewellery industry is juggling hand grenades. Using any means of telling a diamond shopper about the 4-Cs of diamond grading and then presenting them with gemstones certified by labs who apply those grades in a different manner is a pure and simple bait-and-switch. There is a common middle ground where a jeweller outlines the 4-Cs, and then explains that different labs have varying standards; therefore there are price discrepancies. When we “pull-back the curtain” on the diamond industry that little bit, it takes away a lot of the magic and replaces it with suspicion. When you admit to Kyle that many diamonds are misrepresented, he can just as easily assume that your diamonds are as well. Consumer confidence and our future prosperity depend on us reversing the trend and putting integrity first. Since we can’t all be involved in creating a worldwide standards organization, maybe we can start by choosing to boycott misleading certificates. Let’s let honesty, service, jewellery styling and outstanding salesmanship restore diamonds to their rightful place as the most treasured gift one can receive. CJ Todd Wasylyshyn has been an active member of the jewellery for over 20 years, and currently reps for Customgold and Courtney Gold of Vancouver and Lashbrook Designs of Utah. Check out his blog at toddwaz.blogspot.com.

CANADIAN JEWELLER MAGAZINE ANNUAL 2013 AWARDS OF EXCELLENCE Canadian Jeweller Magazine is pleased to present the annual 2013 Awards of Excellenc celebrating the very best in Canadian Jewellery retailing, product development and watch brand innovation. The Canadian Jeweller Magazine Awards of Excellence offer members of the jewellery industry a prestigious forum in which to be recognized by their peers. Being recognized with a Canadian Jeweller Magazine Award of Excellence provides winners with tremendous opportunities to promote their achievement in marketing initiatives. Winners will be announced at the annual JVC Jewellers’ Ball on November 16th, 2013.

AoE

AWARDS OF EXCELLENCE

CANADIAN JEWELLER MAGAZINE NOW INVITES ENTRIES AND NOMINATIONS IN THE FOLLOWING AWARDS OF EXCELLENCE CATEGORIES: Independent Retailer-of-the-Year:

This award recognizes excellence by an independent Canadian jewellery retailer (five stores or less) with an emphasis on product selection and knowledge, customer service, and innovative marketing initiatives.

Multi-store Retailer-of-the-Year:

This award recognizes excellence by a multi-store Canadian jewellery retailer (more than five stores) with an emphasis on product selection and knowledge, customer service, and innovative marketing initiatives.

Product Line-of-the-Year:

This award recognizes new thinking in leading-edge product development which pushes the envelope in terms of trends, aesthetic sensibility, pricing, increased sales, and is backed by innovative marketing initiatives and exemplary customer service.

Watch Brand-of-the-Year:

This award pays tribute to watch design innovation and originality along with attention to cutting-edge marketing techniques and customer service. To find out how you can become a sponsor of Canadian Jeweller Magazine’s Awards of Excellence, please contact Zinnia Crawford at zinnia@thergmgroup.net or call 416-203-7900 X 6135. For complete details on how to enter in one of the above categories or on the Excellence in Design Awards, contact Norma Meneguzzi Spall at norma@thergmgroup.net or 416-686-9110. Entry deadline is September 13th, 2013 at 5:00 p.m. Entry form can also be downloaded at canadianjeweller.com

Annual JVC Jewellers’ Ball November 16th, 2013

CANADIAN JEWELLER

Mag.

new generation

“The luxury industry really has to be preserved, and young people in the family should enter the business if they’re really skilled at it or have a passion to preserve this.” – Haigo Derian

PASSING THE TORCH

The new generations of jewellers at L’ORO Jewellery, Helmsley’s and Prestige & Fancy all share a love of the industry and a desire to preserve the businesses their families built. By Sarah Hood L’ORO JEWELLERY: PRESERVING A FAMILY HERITAGE

L’ORO JEWELLERY WAS FOUNDED IN 1984 BY VAHRAM DERIAN, a jeweller of Armenian descent who came to Canada from Turkey after an apprenticeship in enamel work that started when he was only 13. Initially, he was mainly engaged in manufacturing and sub-manufacturing, specializing in setting and finishing for other manufacturers; however, his talent for spotting shifts in the business soon led him to start his own company. “My father had two challenges,” says his son Haigo Derian, 34, now serving as vice-president of the company. “First, the business was not sustainable [since it relied on work coming from other companies]. Second, my dad was a perfectionist. When he told manufacturers he could do the work at a higher quality, they would say ‘Don’t do that! Make more units!’” At first, the company was “very idealistic and utopian,” says Derian. It was also modest. “Our largest diamond was 20 points. We were on the second storey of an industrial building in Concord, Ontario,” he recalls. On the other hand, the senior Derian showed a canny sense of timing in choosing to open the business when he did. “It was a good time, because the setting [business] was moving to New York in those days, and then it went to the Far East, so he was right in his foresight,” says his son.

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Exposed to the business at a young age, the younger Derian was attracted to it, but his father initially discouraged him. “He wanted me to have a nine-to-five job.” As a teenager, he wanted to pursue his high school co-op placement in jewellery. “They wouldn’t allow you to work in a family business, so they tried to find a placement for me, but they couldn’t,” he says; therefore, he did his apprenticeship as a diamond setter with his father at the age of 16. It taught him an appreciation for bench work. “You have to really love what you’re doing and have a lot of patience,” he says. “I didn’t have the patience, but I knew I wanted to be in the jewellery business and in the family business in the greatest capacity possible.” Thus at 18, he became certified with the HRD (Hoge Raad voor Diamant, or Diamond High Council of Antwerp) and went to work for his father. He was accepted into the University of Toronto, but, he says, “I loved the business, and I had a natural understanding of the workings of a jewellery store.” Derian opened his first store on his own in 2004 at the age of 25. In 2007, he partnered with lifelong family friend Jeff Karadjian, and today they own two L’ORO outlets, two Cupido locations (a fashion luxury brand) and three Pandora franchises, all in the Greater Toronto Area. “Today we’re opening our seventh store, and we’re just getting started,” he says. “The luxury industry really has to be preserved, and young people in the family should enter the business if they’re really skilled at it or have a passion to preserve this,” he adds. “Of all the luxury products it’s the only one that can be passed down.”

photo: citylifemagazine.ca

Haigo Derian and Jeff Karadjian

Richard Hennick and Jordan Hennick

photo: citylifemagazine.ca

“Every sale that’s made, any new brand you bring in, you’re excited as a family. Everyone gets excited when there’s a big achievement.” – Jordan Hennick

HEMSLEY’S: OLD TRADITIONS, NEW TECHNOLOGIES

MONTREAL’S VENERABLE HEMSLEY’S HAS BEEN A FAMILY BUSINESS since 1870… but not always the same family. The business can lay claim to being the oldest jeweller in Canada (it’s even nine years older than Birks). Originally founded by Richard Hemsley, it passed into the Herman family, and then to Nathan Hennick, who bought the company, along with several other retail businesses, in the early 1960s. “We are jewellery manufacturers from Toronto,” says Nathan’s son, Richard Hennick. “We are now in our 69th year of business.” Nathan Hennick consolidated his retail holdings under the Hemsley’s name, and in 1983 Richard Hennick moved to Montreal to manage the retail operations. “I never came back,” he says. Instead, in 2003, he formally took over ownership of the retail side of the business. (By luck or fate, this means that Hemsley’s can still use the original company coat of arms, which includes the initials RH). Now Richard’s son, Jordan Hennick, age 25, is moving into the family business. Although he has two younger brothers, he says, he seems likely to be the only one who will join the company. “What got me interested was the watches,” he says. “I turned into a little bit of a watch geek. I’m just slowly starting to learn the jewellery side, in terms of buying, pricing and diamond grading. I’m in the process of signing up for the GIA diamond grading course.” Jordan Hennick obtained a Bachelor of Management degree, but

he wasn’t certain which career path he most wanted to take. Having worked part-time at the store throughout high school, he saw a niche that he felt wasn’t being filled. “As social media started to take off, I kept telling my parents ‘You need to do it,’ and they were like ‘No, no, no!’” he says. “And I just started to do it. Now I’m doing all the social media, inventory for the watches, watch boxes and men’s accessories, the website and all the advertising.” His responsibilities include a print and online catalogue launched just last year, as well as direct-mail pieces and magazines, all of which are handled in-house. For now, his goal with social media is “just to be seen,” he says. “I don’t expect to make sales; there are probably some people who do, but our clientele is mostly in the older generation.” He says he believes that his generation will develop more interest in jewellery. “As people get older and have more disposable income, they look for more ways to spend it. You can only have so many TVs and iPads,” he points out. He is clearly proud to be working with his family. “Every sale that’s made, any new brand you bring in, you’re excited as a family,” he says. “Everyone gets excited when there’s a big achievement.” It seems his father agrees. “You feel that you’re always making the best decisions as a family for the betterment of the family and the business,” Richard says. “There’s a lot of pride involved. When something positive happens, it’s extremely satisfying for the whole family, and I think that’s the beauty of the family business.” CANADIANJEWELLER.COM / AUGUST 2013

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new generation

Aaron Herzog

“We have the machinery in-house; we can turn around quick orders, and we can satisfy the smaller users.” – Aaron Herzog

CONTINUING THE LINE: FOUR GENERATIONS OF PRESTIGE & FANCY

ALTHOUGH FAMILY BUSINESSES ARE COMMON IN THE JEWELLERY industry, few have passed into a fourth generation. Montreal’s Prestige & Fancy has already achieved that milestone. In the early 1950s, Montrealer Joseph Herzog founded a company called Impenco (a shortened version of Imperial Engineering Corporation) to makes dies and displays for the jewellery industry. His son Jack Herzog, the current Impenco president, inherited the company from his father and, in the 1980s, the company expanded to the point that it made sense to divide its operations into two parts. Impenco would hold no inventory, but would instead concentrate on fulfilling the needs of major chain retailers like Walmart, JC Penney and Target. A second wing of the business, under the name of Prestige Pak, would function as a catalogue house that would stock inventory such as boxes, ribbons, wrapping paper and in-counter and above-counter displays to serve the smaller customers. “We do a lot of customization; we can give everybody individual service,” says Jack Herzog’s son Aaron Herzog. “We have the machinery in house; we can turn around quick orders, and we can satisfy the smaller users.” In 2001, Prestige Pak bought out a company called Fancy Pak, which handled similar products for a full range of retailers, not only those in the jewellery industry. Thus, Aaron Herzog now serves as CEO

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of a combined company called Prestige & Fancy; his brother John Herzog works closely with him on the Impenco side of the business. Recently, their niece Yitti Wolf (the daughter of their sister and brotherin-law) has joined the company, adding a fourth generation to the family line. Now 21 years old, Wolf (whose father also works with Impenco) is employed in the areas of purchasing and customer service for Prestige & Fancy. She says she has fond memories of her childhood relationship with the family business. “We definitely grew up with the company,” she says. “We used to come in and visit as we were growing up; we were always centred around the office.” However, Wolf never expected to end up working with her family. “In the beginning, it wasn’t something that I was planning to do, but it sort of fell in place when I started here, and then I decided to stay,” she says. After finishing high school, Wolf was called in to replace an employee who was leaving the company, and has never looked back. “I went in and learned through experience,” she says. Having now been with the business for three years, her job includes “a lot of computer work,” she says. “I deal with all of the overseas manufacturing coming into our warehouse and going out to the customers. “It’s always nice to be working with your family,” says Wolf, who now plans to make Prestige & Fancy her lifetime career.” And is she hoping to see a fifth generation enter the business someday? “Yes,” she says, “definitely.” CJ

Canadian Jeweller wants to know How’s your store doing?

INDU SURVSTRY EY

To help Canadian Jeweller provide you with editorial that’s completely relevant to your business, we’d like to get some insight from you about how your store is doing. The jewellery industry in Canada is stronger when we work together and share information. That’s why it’s important for us to understand your needs and interests. In every issue of Canadian Jeweller, we’ll be surveying you to discover information that will enable us to provide you with the most topical, useful articles.

1. How were sales at your store from 2011 to 2012? Up by 5% Up by 15% Up by 20% Up more than 20% Flat Down 5% Down 15% Down 20% Down more than 20% 4. What price point items have increased? Less than $500 $500 to $1,500 $1,500 to $3,000 $3,000 to $5,000 $5,000 to $10,000 More than $10,000

2. How were sales at your store in Nov./ Dec. 2012 compared with Nov./Dec. 2011? Up by 5% Up by 15% Up by 20% Up more than 20% Flat Down 5% Down 15% Down 20% Down more than 20% 5. Which of the following have impacted your margins? Online stores Competitor(s)’ store(s) Secondhand market

6. List your top suppliers in the following categories: Watches:

3. In Nov./Dec. 2012, how were your price points compared to Nov./Dec 2011? Up by 5% Up by 15% Up by 20% Up more than 20% Flat Down 5% Down 15% Down 20% Down more than 20%

Fill in the following and mail or fax back: Name (please print):

Rings:

Address: Store name:

Bracelets:

City: Province: Postal code:

Necklaces:

Telephone: Fax:

Charms:

Email: Number of stores:

Engagement rings:

Cufflinks:

Store Size: Under 1,000 sq. ft 3,000-5,000 sq. ft

1,000-3,000 sq. ft over 5,000 sq. ft

MAILING ADDRESS: Children’s jewellery:

CANADIAN JEWELLER MAGAZINE 60 BLOOR ST., WEST, SUITE 1106, TORONTO, ON., M4W 3B8

FAX NUMBER: 416-703-6392

The windows at Tamsen Z, on Madison Avenue in New York City are romantic as well as colourful. The flowers combined with butterflies and birds have a strong visual impact from the street.

NINE RETAIL DESIGN TRENDS YOU NEED TO KNOW Knowing which design trends have the strongest impact, and which visual merchandising tips work best, can make all the difference for your jewellery store. By Linda Cahan ARE YOU THINKING OF REDESIGNING, RENOVATING OR JUST SPRUCING UP YOUR STORE? Since styles change over the years, it pays to know what design trends are currently impacting the market. That way you can choose which best reflect your individual image and brand. I recently attended Global Shop (a visual merchandising and store design trade show) in Chicago and went to an excellent seminar on Global Trends in Retail Design by the Retail Design Institute. It was from this seminar that I learned about the nine major trends in retail design. Jewellery store design follows these trends, and often incorporates several of these new trends at once, to create something fresh and exciting. Read through the nine trends to see what resonates with you – and have fun picking and choosing among these trends to bring new life to your store. 112

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TREND 01: COLOUR

While bright, saturated colours have generally been connected to young children’s toys and clothing, they are now being used artfully in upscale fashion shops and fine jewellery stores. Colourful drum lampshades are a simple and smart way to bring strong colour into a store. Another easy way is to use filtered, coloured lights on the walls. The filters can be changed periodically to change the colour seasonally. For example, using red during the holiday season or pink and green during the spring will create an instant seasonal vibe. Other good ways to bring colour into your store include using coloured tiles or carpet, or painting focal walls in a colour palette that reflects your image. If you are unsure how to come up with a colour scheme that makes sense for your store, look to nature. Go through nature photo books or go for a walk. Take photos of scenes you find especially appealing, and isolate colours from a favourite photo to come up with the colours for your store. The secret to making this trend a success is to look at the proportion of colours. You may love red, but too much will be annoying and overwhelming. You may choose to work with a softer, more neutral colour and add brighter colour highlights on certain walls, in furnishings or in jewellery case pads.

TREND 03: HERITAGE

The heritage trend is all about conveying a distinct time and place through your store design, architecture and displays. This is essentially storytelling made relevant for today. Think Ralph Lauren with all of its nostalgic photos, props and presentations. You can make this work in your jewellery store by finding out what is unique in the history of either your store or town. Antique cases instantly convey a time and place. If you can’t find authentic ones in decent condition, look for custom-make cases that function in a very convenient, modern way yet look authentically and elegantly old.

TREND 04: IMMERSIVE

When you feel transported into another world, you are experiencing an “immersive” brand experience. If you’ve ever been in a newer Bass Pro Shop or a Cabela’s in Western Canada, you understand immersive. Another good example of this is Anthropologie, which creates a unique atmosphere with its one-of-a-kind focal elements and fixtures and its use of textures and details. When you enter an Anthropologie store, you feel like you’re in another world. To create an immersive atmosphere, you need to focus on every element as part of the whole experience. Nothing can be from a different reality. This total experience relies on the details making sense with the whole image. For instance, in an historic, immersive experience, Lucite would not make sense; only glass existed years ago and only glass should be used for build-ups.

TREND 05: BIO-MIMICRY:

Inspired by all things found in nature, bio-mimicry is a huge trend in all retail design. Ninety-degree angles are rarely found in a store inspired by nature. There are more curves, and people flow through the store rather than move quickly down straight aisles. Organic shapes, textures inspired by nature, plants (especially vertical plant walls) are all fresh and new. Think of the shape of a lily or a sand dune and imagine that inspiring your store design.

TREND 02: MONOCHROMATIC COLOURS

Monochromatic colours are all the colours (tints, tones and shades) of a single hue. The new Tiffany store in Soho, New York City is a perfect example of how to use different shades of the same colour (blue) to achieve a strong image and overall brand statement. For your store, consider soft shades of greens mixed with a neutral taupe to create a warm, easy-to-browse-in experience. People tend to lose track of time when surrounded by green. Corals make people friendlier and more open to conversation – always good for creating customer relationships. If colourful walls and floors aren’t your thing, different (but harmonious) wood tones can create a warm and inviting atmosphere.

TREND 06: LOCAL

Trader Joe’s is a chain of 398 grocery stores in the U.S. Almost every product in the chain is privately labeled and is either natural or organic. Each Trader Joe’s hires local artists to create custom murals and signs that reflect the essence of the particular community in which the store is located. Imagine how you can translate this to into your own jewellery store. In Three Sisters, Oregon, I saw a simple painting of the Three Sisters Mountains on the back wall of a store. It was a perfect example of bringing the local feeling inside. Retail that reflects the essence of the community where a store is located helps develop stronger relationships with the customer base. You can develop a strong brand identity by engaging local artists and artisans, as well as referring to local landmarks.

Above left: Tiffany & Co. Soho store, 97 Greene Street façade. Photo: Tiffany & Co. Above right: Interior shot of Tiffany & Co. Soho store. Photo: Billy Farrell Agency CANADIANJEWELLER.COM / AUGUST 2013

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TREND 07: TEXTURE

Tactile finishes and materials including reclaimed or recycled materials are becoming very important in store design. Berani Jewellery Design in Toronto, designed by Prototype Design Lab, has the perfect mix of textures. The cutout wood entry is reminiscent of Middle Eastern screens. Inside the store, hanging lights gleam like fireflies over rich red fabric chairs and smooth wood walls. Textures, even in places that can’t be touched, engage the eye and the sense of touch. When these textures are lit properly, they are appealing and interesting. No light, no real visual pop and you’ve wasted your money. Look for LED strip lights that can be installed easily over a textured wall panel to add dimension and highlighting. Ruth Mellergaard from GRID 3, a New York jewellery store design firm, says LED lights will save you a lot of money within one-and-ahalf years. They also are now calibrated to give you the perfect light for each type of jewellery. Mellergaard suggests consulting with a professional to get the correct light for each area of your store. For example, fine diamonds in certain cases can look like they have dark centres when under a certain strength of LED bulb, while less expensive diamonds can look perfect. Because LED lights are so bright, white case pads may outshine the jewellery. Always plan your lighting and new in-case displays at the same time to see the impact of the light on the case line displays. And, on the subject of displays, Pam Levine, a renowned jewellery brand innovator, says jewellery displays are moving from whites to darker colours. There is more use of natural materials such as wood, glass and metal. The tie-in to fashion and the need/desire to attract a younger demographic is calling for brighter colours.

Top left: A series of blackened steel sculptural nymphaea sit on a white marble slab floor at Berani Jewellery Design. Above them hang low custom-cut Swarovski crystals, with all lighting in the ceiling. Design: Prototype Design Lab; Photo: Ben Rahn/AFrame. Top right: The layering effect that one experiences when looking into Berani Jewellery Design. Design: Prototype Design Lab; Photo: Ben Rahn/A-Frame. Left: Holt Renfew in Edmonton created a fun, irreverent store-wide promotion that worked exceptionally well for its fine jewellery. All the heart “faces” had arched eyebrows. In terms of trends, this would be a mix of colour and high impact.

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The ideal store may make successful use of a combination of several trends at once. Go online and look for trendsetting jewellery store design. Keep an open mind and get a feeling for what new looks will make sense in your store. TREND 09: REPURPOSE

Repurposing old items to create a fresh new brand is a huge trend as it is both environmentally responsible and authentic. Old wood, bricks, renovated vintage or antique lighting and cases, furniture and decorative elements are easy to reuse in a store design and can be part of your new brand information. Christian Koban in Berlin, a store designed by Neels Kattentidt of Studio Kattentidt, uses recycled tires as the base for the floor fixtures. On top of each grouping of tires is a locked glass jewellery display case.

TAKING A RISK

TREND 08: IMPACT

This trend is all about “wow” focal areas (or just one area) that define the store and brand. These can be hyper-scaled pieces, heroic walls of color or texture, oversized graphics, “in your face” displays, oversized patterns, exaggerated repetition of elements, or the use of unique finishes for each store category. You have to be brave to implement an impact element, but bravery almost always pays off. You will have people talking about you, and good buzz creates curious new customers.

Above: It may be cold on Valentine’s Day in Toronto, but this display at Royal De Versailles warmed up viewers with the hot pink and red combination. White in winter is cold and needs warm colours to give it some “pop” and in this case, flavour. Using the small heart boxes as color spots draws the eye around the entire window area.

Trend information can help inspire you to refresh your store. When you renovate, even a little change can make a big difference to your customers. Freshness and creativity inspires you, your staff and your customers. If your designer comes to you with something exciting, please don’t cut it out at the last moment due to budget restraints. Find a way to add the element or elements that will set you apart in the market. It’s the impact areas, combined with your selection and service, that make for a memorable shopping experience. The ideal store may make successful use of a combination of several trends at once. Go online and look for trendsetting jewellery store design. Keep an open mind and get a feeling for what new looks will make sense in your store. Remember, big risks can equal big rewards. When you create a store with great colour or a large impact area, people will understand and appreciate the courage it took to do something different and exciting. CJ

The “Global Trends in Retail Design” seminar was presented by members of the Retail Design Institute. The speakers were: Andrew McQuilkin and Eric Kuhn from GHDP Architects and Paul Biondolillo of Mulvanny G2 Architecture in Seattle, WA. CANADIANJEWELLER.COM / AUGUST 2013

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expo prestige

MONTREAL CONVENTION CENTRE Sunday August 25 / 10 a.m. - 7 p.m. // Monday August 26 / 10 a.m. - 3 p.m. // Tuesday August 27 / 10 a.m. - 3 p.m.

A TIME TO SHINE: EXPO PRESTIGE 2013 The 43rd edition of the Montreal Expo Prestige promises the freshest and most sensational designs from the jewellery, clock and watch industries.

EVERY AUGUST the city of Montreal hosts a three-day showcase of some of the best and brightest stars the Canadian watch and jewellery industry has to offer. Known for its stunning architecture and rich history, Montreal is the perfect setting for Expo Prestige, during which visitors have the opportunity to stock up on the latest designs right before the busy holiday season.

QUEBEC JEWELLERS’ CORPORATION Expo Prestige is organized by the Quebec Jewellers’ Corporation (QJC), an organization that offers jewellers across Quebec the services they need in order to succeed in this industry. Members of the QJC are eligible for services like suggested price lists, accident insurance, security program, pamphlets and certification. The corporation also provides technical seminars and theoretical courses on jewellery, a professional library and employment assistance within the industry. Canadian Jeweller magazine is proud to be a member and supporter of the QJC, which has been an integral part of the Canadian jewellery industry for more than 60 years.

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EXPO PRESTIGE’S VIP PROGRAM This year’s exhibit will introduce a new and exciting feature to some of its most dedicated visitors. Expo Prestige is unveiling its VIP program for jewellers who purchased at least $20,000 in product during last year’s show. Jewellers that provide show organizers with invoices detailing purchases from Expo Prestige 2012, will qualify as VIP guests during the upcoming fair in August. “This year, we will put all our energy into treating our VIP visitors well,” says Lise Petitpas, executive director at the QJC. “We want to thank them properly for their interest in Expo Prestige and their products.” The new VIP program will include access to a special lounge, where jewellers can enjoy free Wi-Fi and relax during the busy show. In addition, the program includes meal coverage as well as the chance to win several exclusive prizes at the show.

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM / AUGUST 2013

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EXHIBITORS 711 A.R.Z. CRYSTALS 711 A.R.Z JEWELLERY COLLECTIONS 711 A.R.Z STEEL ADLER JEWELLERY WHOLESALE INC. (VALENTE) 718 327 ADORA 326 AFFORDABLE CREATIONS 305 AIE 831 ALFRED SUNG 221 AMERICAS GOLD 505 AMORE & BACI 105 ANNE KLEIN 127 ARBE 810 ARCTIC FOX ANTI TARNISH SILVER 305 ARÉLI DESIGN 305 ARÉLI LTÉE 711 AREZZO 813 ASSURANCES G. GOSSELIN LTÉE 804 AVS GROUP 300 BANDA 300 BANDA SWISS 300 BANDINI 730 BANDIT CANADA INC. 426 BCOUTURE 426 BCOUTURE COLLECTIONS 426 BCOUTURE KEEPSAKE 219 BEGLI 327 BELLA BABY 327 BELLA GOLD COLLECTION 327 BELLA HUGGIES GOLD 327 BELLA HUGGIES SILVER 231 BENJAMIN JACQUES 218 BEST BARGAINS 127 BEST BUILT 527 BEVERLY HILLS JEWELLERS MFG. LTD. 410 BFLY 319 BIJOUTERIE ALMAR INC. 719 BIJOUTERIE J. IFRAH LTÉE 912 BIJOUTIER EXPERT 611 BKJ CANADA 819 BOCCIA TITANIUM 804 BOMA PURE SILVER 804 BOMA SILVER 827 BOUDICCA 831 BUREN 1873 BUTTERFLY RECYCLED PRECIOUS METALS 810 830 CADRANS ÉMAILLÉSFAITS À LA MAIN 212 CANADIAN JEWELLER, EVER 515 CAPRICE 515 CARDINAL 201 CAREZZA ARGENTO 729 CASIO 127 CASTALDO 511 CBE INC. 814 CFM PRODUCTION LTD./MADANI 515 CITADEL 510 COBALT CHROMO 127 COHLER 205 COLLECTION MBS COLLECTION PAPILLON GEMME INC./BFLY 410 510 COMETE GIOIELLI 729 CONNOISSEURS 105 CONTINENTAL GENEVE 419 CORONA JEWELLERY COMPANY CRÉATION LE GRENIER LTÉE./ETHAN STARS 807 214 CRÉATIONS GILO 405 CRÉATIONS MALO INC. 105 DANISH DESIGN 705 DAVIDOFF 127 DEGUSSA 105 DELMAR 330 DESIGN ARGENTO INC. 419 DIAMONTS EN FÊTE 830 DIANE BALIT 428-430 DISTRIBUTION VOLTIMAGE INC. 214 DIVA 510 DOLCE GIOIELLI 127 DWS 515 ELITE 704 ELLE JEWELRY 704 ELLE TIME

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127 ELMA 105 EMBIX CIE D’IMPORTATION DE MONTRES 300 ENERGIZER BATTERIES 807 ETHAN STARS 631 EUGENE GEM, INC. 720 EUROPEAN DESIGN JEWELLERY LTD. 804 FACET BARCELONA 105 FILA 505 FIVE STAR GOLD 430 FIYTA 219 FLICA 219 FLICA INC. 127 FOREDOM 127 GALLONI 827 GEM DROPS 127 GEMORO 922 GEMPREMIUM GÉNÉRATEAUR DE BROUILLARD DE SÉCURITÉ 240 DB 730 107 GOLDSTAR INDEPENDENT, LLC 415 GRAVURE ATLANTIC LTÉE 127 GROBET GROUPE COURCHESNE/CONNOISSEURS/ZINZI 729 505 GUY LAROCHE MEN 505 GUY LAROCHE WOMEN 611 HERA’S 729 HIRSCH 419 I AM CANADIAN 827 ICE 925 127 IKOHE 323 IMAGE DESIGN JEWELLERY INC. 510 INFINITY TITANIUM 804 INK, YOUR WORDS BECOME JEWELRY 119 INOX 427 INTERCHIC 211 ITAL CAN INC. 510 ITALGEM STEEL GROUP 505 JEELL 328 JEWELLERS VIGILANCE CANADA 115 JEWELLERY BUSINESS 218 JEWELS BY ANITA 105 JUST CAVALLI 711 KAINAM BY A.R.Z. 827 KAMELEON JEWELLERY 701 KARAT STERLING, STERLING SILVER GRAIN 719 KARISMA 127 KERR KIN CHONG GEMS & JEWELLERY (CANADA) INC. 111 819 LA BRÉA INT’L/STEELX 422 LA PETITE 611 LADY DREAM 422 LIVINGSTONE JEWELRY CO. INC. 827 LOTUS JEWELLERY LTD. 510 LOVE BAND 905 LOW COST LUXURY 205 MABENSA INC. 814 MADANI 700 MANUFACTURIER DE BIJOUX GABY INC. 419 MAPLE LEAF DIAMONDS 214 MASAKO 105 MASERATI 719 MEN’S BY AAGAARD 719 MI. MONEDA 719 MICHEL HERBELIN 827 MIRAGE COLLECTION 719 MISAKI 727 MISS MIMI (7922957 CANADA INC.) 105 MISS SIXTY 105 MONNAIE ROYALE CANADIENNE 830 MONTRES DIANE BALIT 830 MONTRES ÉMAILLÉS 830 MONTRES MODE LITHOGRAPHIE 831 MONTRES SHIVAS INC. 831 NAVY SEALS 211 NEOS 705 NOMINATION ITALY 619 NONA 811 NOOR COLLECTION 719 OFFICINA. BERNARDI 300 OMORFIA 214 OPEARL

OPERA OPERA DIAMOND LTÉE OPS OBJECTS ORCA BONDED RINGS AND TUBE ORIENT PAJ CANADA COMPANY/ELLE JEWELRY PARAGEMS PEPETOOLS PESAVENTO PLATILITE STERLING SILVER GRAIN PLATINET STERLING SILVER GRAIN PRESTIGE PRESTIGE & FANCY PRINCESS PEARL PRODUITS DE SÉCURITÉ PAR FOB (SÉCURITÉ ACTIVE) PROMO INC. PUK QUATRO Q&Q QUÉBEC FONTE INC. RANDOM & RANDOLPH READY STOCK RE-DEFINED ENVIRONMENTALLY RESPONSIBLE RENATA RMR INC. RNB JEWELLERY RODANEX RODANIA RODANIA CANADA INC. ROMANCE ROVINA ROYAL CANADIAN MINT SALESONE INTERNATIONAL SAMUEL BOUKI SASSOUNIAN MTL., INC. TOOLS AND SUPPLIES SECURITY FOG GENERATOR – 240DB SECURITY PRODUCTS BY FOB (ACTIVE SECURITY) SEPHORA SHINY JEWELLERS SILGOLD SILVER & CO. INC. SIMON CHANG SINDBAD INC. SISMA SK DIAMONDS SOLID GOLD SONY BATTERIES SOTHIL SPENDID PEARL SPROUT STEELX STERLIUM STERLING SILVER GRAIN STORM STORY STULLER INC. SWANK TAMAR TECH-ÉMOTION INC. TENO THE ANGEL PENDANT THOMAS SABO BIJOUX THOMAS SABO CHARMS THOMAS SABO MONTRES TIMBERLAND TSMI U-BOAT ULTIMATE CERAMIC UMICORE PRECIOUS METALS CANADA INC. UNITED PRECIOUS METAL REFINING INC. VAHAN VALENTE VOGUE JEWELLERY DESIGN WELDER WENGER SWISS-STEEL WENGER’S LTD. X GAMES XC 38 PURE STEEL ZEGHANI BY SIMON G ZINZI

501 501 164 810 515 704 421 127 705 701 701 405 431 214 730 411 127 300 918 127 810 701 300 605 815 619 619 619 214 300 105 119 428 127 730 730 427 327 511 427 831 627 127 913 101 515 705 214 105 819 701 105 719 311 515 227 505 719 804 719 719 719 619 719 705 505 810 701 705 718 211 705 515 515 515 515 414 729

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CANADIANJEWELLER.COM / AUGUST 2013

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showcase A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

J.W. Histead showcase ad:Layout 1

3/4/09

1:41 PM

Page 1

pure beauty has a name...

Exclusively available in Canada through

J.W. HISTED DIAMONDS LTD. Vancouver, B.C.

1-800-663-1458 Online inventory

www.jwdiamonds.ca All NORDIC FIRE Diamonds are GIA Certiﬁed for accurate grading.

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Jewelers Mutual®

Drives customers to you with personal jewellery insurance

www.bamiyansilver.ca Diamonds with Multi Sapphire

Mention Jewelers Mutual and its Perfect Circle® Jewelry Insurance to your customers with each fine jewellery sale and add unparalleled value to their retail experience. Call us to learn more about insurance for your customers and how it creates stronger, long-lasting relationships and boosts business. Ask about our special programs today!

800-558-6411, ext. 2118 PerfectCircleInsurance.com/Jeweler

Wholesaler  Manufacturer  Distributor

Not Open to Public

55 queen st e #1100 toronto, on m5c1r6 tel: 1-800-693-2898 C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M / A U G U S T 2 0 1 3

product showcase 2-2013.indd 1

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BELLE BELLEROSE ROSE

www.tresorparis.ca www.tresorparis.ca 5623 Casgrain Ave Montreal QC H2T 1Y1

enquiries: hugh@tresorparis.com | tel: 514-6-2-0089 enquiries: hugh@tresorparis.com | tel: 514-612-0089 | fax: 513-612-0098 facebook.com/TresorParis |

STEWART’S HOROLOGY REPAIR & RESTORATION

• QUALITY service & attention to detail • 4 highly qualified technicians • Large inventory of parts • Access to all major supply houses • Repairs to fine watches, quartz & mechanical • Restoration of pocket watches

n io at c lo u w yo ne rve r nd se tte ra to be

2741 Portage Avenue, Winnipeg, MB R3J 0R2, Canada Tel: (204) 789-9620 Email: stewbnz1@mts.net www.stewartshorology.com B

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twitter.com/tresorparis

Help Consumers Find Your GiA-GrAded diAmonds FINE JEWELLERY 27 QUEEN ST. E, SUITE 703 TORONTO, M5C2M6 INFO@LUCYFELICITE.COM 416.364.0330

reGister For tHe GiA retAiler loCAtor Consumers Can loCate stores that offer diamonds graded by gia or have gia-trained staff direCtly from their iPhone, iPad or android deviCe using the GIA 4Cs App or through www.GIA.edu VIsIt www.retAIler.GIA.edu to reGIster.

GIA Canadian Jeweller 2013.indd 1

3/12/13 4:12 PM

27 Queen St, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6 T: 416.955.9415 • Toll Free: 800.216.0899 • F: 416.955.9621 www.midasjewelryinc.ca • Email: info@midasjewelryinc.ca

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showcase/marketplace A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

Lala Diamond PDF:Layout 1

12/10/08

New & Used Tel: (514) 737-1660 Fax: (514) 737-9335

Page 1

LaLa Diamond

A.B. MACHINERY Plastic Injectors

6:52 PM

Laser Welders Mettler Scales (Legal) ABM Gold Melters New and Used Machinery BUY – SELL – TRADE

• Cutter • Old Mine Cu • Buy Diamond

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Over 20 Years Experience lala.diamond@hotmail.com

LaLa Diamond Cutting & Repairs Inc. \ Cutters of Rough Diamonds \ Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes \ Buy Diamond Roughs and Broken Diamonds Ramesh Mistry Tel: 416-368-6883

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21 Dundas Square, Suite 805 Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7

arketplace ad

marketplace A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

Restore. Purchase. Sell. 2/25/09

3:11 PM

With over 30 years of experience as a watch maker, restoration expert and luxury watch dealer, Sun Time Luxury is the only place for all of your luxury watch needs.

Page 1

Conveniently located at

416.471.5088 suntimeluxury.com

21 Dundas Square Toronto, Ontario

EXPRESS GOLD REFINING LTD. PRECIOUS METALS DEALER

ASSAYING • REFINING • • NO MINIMUM LOTS OR MINIMUM CHARGES

ExprEss Gold rEfininG ltd. • 4TH GENERATION EXPERIENCE IN PRECIOUS METALS TRADE

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YOUR METALS DEALER LETPRECIOUS US EARN YOUR TRUST Web: www.xau.ca

Express Gold Refining has acquired the latest Assaying technology Tel: (416) 363-0584 • Fax: (416) 363-9633 • Toll Free: 1-888-401-1111 21 Dundas 401, Toronto, ONmost M5B 1B7 Email: to provide youSquare, with Suite the fastest and accurate results. We info@xau.ca guarantee to settle your GOLD, SILVER, PLATINUM and DENTAL scrap in less than an 1 hour of receiving it. We will return to you gold bars, silver, platinum or buy your metal at the most competitive market prices.

Express Gold Refining is YOUR PRECIOUS METAL DEALER OF CHOICE. Please visit our website for the latest up-to-the minute prices in the Canadian Market.

Melting free of charge We melt your: grindings, filing, and scrap Get payment or purchases immediately Precious metal refining Service on the spot, and while you watch

Gold refining 98% Silver refining 90% Platinum refining 90% No hidden fees.

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400 - 215 Victoria St, Toronto, ON M5B 1T9 Phone: 416.363.0584 | Toll-Free: 1.888.401.1111 Email: info@xau.ca

211 Yonge Street Suite 207 Toronto, Ontario M5B 1M4 Tel: 647 - 748 - 6111

www.kerminagoldrefining.com kerminarefining@gmail.com

Working hours: Monday - Friday 8:30am - 5:00pm Saturday by appointment only

Charms capture memories...

For information about our Business Building Charm Program call 800.828.7840 today. REMBRANDT CHARMS – NUCO PRODUCTS 11 Progress Ave, Unit 17 • Scarborough, ON M1P 4S7 orders@rembrandtcharms.ca 800.387.5238 • 416.293.3495 • 24/7 fax 416.293.1227

Top 15

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C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M / A U G U S T 2 0 1 3

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Since 1996

CUSTOM DESIGN & FINISHING

PRINT, MILL & GROW

SERVICE GUARANTEE

• Finishing: 2 weeks turn around • Print, Mill, Grow your CAD, STL files 2-3 days • Casting Provided • All jobs set under microscope • Our jobs guaranteed t e l : 4 1 6 . 7 8 7. 3 4 2 7 | t f : 1 . 8 8 8 . 8 7 0 .9 2 0 3 | i n f o @ J e w e l l e r s B l o c k . c o m

1 3 0 B r i d g e l a n d Ave n u e , S u i t e 3 0 0, To ro n t o, O N M 6 A 1 Z 4

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410 Chrislea Rd, Unit 9, Woodbridge, Ontario Tel: 905-264-9976 •7/15/09 Toll 12:13:12 Free:PM1-866-264-9976 info@prestigemfg.com • www.prestigemfg.ca

Importer & Wholesaler of

South Sea,Tahitian, Akoya & Freshwater Pearls

55 Queen Street East, Suite 502 Toronto, Ontario M5C 1R6 P: 416.363.0110 F: 416.363.2720 T: 1.888.435.9677 www.CrownPearl.com

Evinno Inc.

Division Of Exagem Inc. GU10

Bulb

E26

LED Lighting Manufacturer

Ceiling Light

MR16

EXCEPTIONAL SERVICE - INVENTORY - WEBSITE

PAR Series

As a jewellery wholesaler that has been serving the Canadian jewellery market

Lig

ter

rip

Lig

... and more

151 Brunel Road, Unit 3 Mississauga, Ontario L4Z 2H6 Tel: (905) 238-3288 Mississauga, Ontario, Canada, and being an affiliated partner of a LED lighting Fax: (905) 238-7835 mail: exagem@hotmail.com manufacturing company in China, we can provide a large selection of LED www.exagemjewellery.com for over twenty years, our products are specially selected and designed for

jewellery store applications. Evinno Inc. has its own manufacturing facility in

products at competitive prices.

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style council

the

Power of prints

Prints are in this summer. Not only does a printed blouse or pair of jeans function as the perfect statement piece, choosing to layer your prints – previously a fashion faux pas – is one of the hottest, of-the-moment, trends. This category spans everything from geometric shapes to floral patterns, so when matching jewellery, keep it simple and understated. So, go ahead! Layer on the prints and make a fashion declaration!

3. 1. 2. 4. 6.

1. CHLOÉ Marcie Satchel, $775, available at Holt Renfrew 2. Leaf Print Cutout Back Jumpsuit by LOFT, $98.88 3. Women’s Concerto Watch by Movado, $2,395 4. Saturday Skull Ring by Holly Dyment Fine Jewelry, $6,750-$7,350 5. ELLE Jewelry ‘Sugar Melon’ Bracelet, $299 6. Oscar de la Renta ‘Gladia’ Sandals, $895

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3. 2.

7. 1. Mirage Creations Inc. Ring, $6,275.00 2. Erdem Blouse, $990, available at Holt Renfrew 3. Ebel ‘Onde’ Diamond Bracelet 30mm Watch, $7,900 4. Danielle Faith Bracelet, $315, available at Holt Renfrew 5. Sterling Silver, 14k Gold Bracelet with Sterling Silver, 14k Gold, Brown Pave, Murano Glass and Wooden Charms, all from Pandora, $2,685 6. Vince Camuto Skinny Ankle Pant, $99, available at Samuel & Co. and Hudson’s Bay Co. 7. Christian Dior Shoes, $940, available at Holt Renfrew

5. 6. C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M / A U G U S T 2 0 1 3

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last word

ROSES ARE

RED...

ACCORDING TO SWISS WATCH MASTER Carl F. Bucherer, the Alacria RoyalRose is inspired by the rose: “a symbol of beauty, joie de vivre and love.” While the heart of this majestic timepiece is a CFB 1850 Swiss precision movement, the case is outfitted with 137 radiant sapphires and 137 splendid diamonds. The mother-of-pearl dial holds 89 sapphires and 26 diamonds, intertwined in a floral blossom that speaks of elegance and grace. As a limited edition masterpiece, only 10 Alacria RoyalRose models have been created, making any woman lucky enough to wear it feel like a true royal. (Retails for US$69,000)

by IRINA LYTCHAK

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