Taste
CUISINE
CHEF CONVERSATIONS In the kitchen with Stephen Jones of The Larder + The Delta
BY ALISON BAILIN BATZ / PHOTO BY MARK MORGAN
Stephen Jones is the owner and executive chef of The Larder + The Delta, where he dreams up modern, elevated dishes inspired by the American South with an emphasis on local and regional produce. What are some of the must-try dishes on the menu? The Okra Pilau, or pilaf for some, and the Jollof Rice, which is West African in origin and similar to Southern Cajun in spice, are both two dishes on our current menu that have me excited. Did you always want to be a chef? I grew up in California, where my first love was football. I also spent a great deal of time in the South, where my grandparents lived, as well as in Chicago. I actually played football at the collegiate level until an injury changed my dreams of playing at the next level. What inspired you to cook? I was always surrounded talented chefs – my great uncle was a certified master chef – so it was very much second nature to me. When I got hurt, cooking helped feed my soul. With some encouragement by my family, I’ve made it my life’s work since. I trained everywhere from California to Asia, including at both WaterGrille and Spago in Los Angeles, Restaurant MK and Alinea in Chicago and Nobu Bradley Ogden in Las Vegas. How has your business changed amid COVID-19? Certainly, we’ve heightened safety tenfold. We’ve also flipped how we interact with our customers, with a heavy focus on to go, and for a time, on curbside pickup. We’ve also created theme nights and family dinner packages to help everyone during this trying time. Are there any foods you dislike? I hate mayonnaise and ketchup…a lot! What would readers be surprised to know about you? I only live a few blocks from the restaurant. In my spare time, when not raising my young son with my wife, I am very into politics and study wars, reading anything I can get my hands on. What is the best dish you’ve ever cooked? To be determined. I’ll tell you when I make it one day! The Larder + The Delta, 200 W. Portland St., Phoenix; www.thelarderandthedelta.com; 480.409.8520;
Uptown August ‘20
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