food files
GOT IT FROM THEIR MAMAS Local chefs share menu items made with Mom in mind BY ALISON BAILIN BATZ
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hether it’s a standout ingredient, flavor profile or fond experience, there’s a meaning behind every culinary creation. We spoke with five local chefs on the mother of all inspiration – their family’s matriarchs. Many chefs find memories with these women as the ultimate special ingredient in a recipe. Here they share some mother- and grandmother-influenced dishes from their restaurants’ menu and the remembrances that shaped them.
CRUJIENTE TACOS Chef: Richard Hinojosa Mom: Carmen Hinojosa Dish: Carmen’s Buñuelos, $6 A refined take on buñuelos, a popular sweet in Mexico, Central America, and South America, Chef Hinojosa’s version features fried thin circles of flour dough sprinkled with cinnamon-anise and served with strawberry pico de gallo and Mexican-spiced chocolate mousse.
“After special holidays, it was a tradition for my mother to make buñuelos, one of my favorite treats. In honor of her nostalgic recipe, Carmen’s Buñuelos are the one and only shareable desserts we serve – and they aren’t even on the published menu! Friends and insiders can order our buñuelos anytime of the year but don’t worry; mom won’t mind that you know now, too!” Info: 3961 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix; 602.687.7777; www.crutacos.com.
DUST CUTTER AT THE RENAISSANCE PHOENIX DOWNTOWN HOTEL Chef: Joshua Murray Mom: Marie Ann Murray Dish: Smoked Chicken Noodle Soup, $6 cup/$10 bowl A refined version of chicken noodle soup with mesquite-smoked chicken, Grand Canyon onions, celery, carrots and squash. UPTOWN |
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| MAY 2017
“My mom was more than just a talented home cook – she was a mother of five. So it meant that in addition to knowing her way around a kitchen, she was an expert at stretching a dollar. One of the smartest meals – and my favorite – was actually born of leftovers. Whenever we would have roasted chicken, she would save what we didn’t devour and make this