UNNEW ISSUE 3

April

SUSTAINABILITY FREESTYLE CLOTHING EXCHANGE GOODWILL OPPORTUNITY HOUSE UPSCALE THRIFT ECO THRIFT CROSSROADS TRADING POST

Thrift & Vintage Magazine

WHAT HAPPEN TO THE MOST WANTED COAT OF THE TEENS JOCKS AND THE GIRLS WHO WANT THEM

THRIFT VINTAGE SECONDHAND WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE

photography Edward R Carley III

THE WICKERING TALE

By Jasmyne Daneils

In the new year, I prepared myself to hear about the many revolutionary leaders that made sacrifices for the black community so they could thrive in years to come after them. I prepared myself for the lectures on who they were and what roles they had in each of the movements that were momentous in American history. Many of the same leaders in these movements are presented: Martin Luther King, Angela Davis, Harriet Tubman, Rosa Parks, and Malcolm X. But as I write, and as the episode of “Black~ish” Season 2: Episode 16, ‘Hope’ plays, I listen closely as they have a real, heartfelt discussion about ongoing issues within black communities and the history of black revolutionists in this country. Time and time again we hear these stories, relate to these stories to some degree, but one name that always comes up is the Black Panther Party. The name in and of itself rings the loudest of bells to almost any and everyone who has even the slightest education on American and black history. But this wouldn’t even be so much as a household name if it weren't for a man named Huey P. Newton, founder of the Black Panther Party, who’d stepped up to fight for civil disobedience and civil rights for black Americans at the time. His organization made such an impact on the lives of the many people in his community that suffered from injustice, poverty, and violence during the 1960’s because of the racial divide that blanketed the whole nation. Due to the inequality and injustice that was prominent, they made it their mission to provide services to their communities such as “food banks, medical clinics, sickle cell anemia tests, prison busing for families of inmates, legal advice seminars,” and many other outreach services. But Huey would make one of the most meaningful and riveting statements about his cause with a picture that spoke, and still speaks, volumes. The famous peacock wicker chair presented in the photo resonates with symbolism for black

power, black royalty, freedom. Newton sitting in this chair represented his call for black empowerment and change for his people. He was willing to display civil unrest and disobedience in order to contribute to creation of the voice needed for change.

Contemporary representations of black excellence, leadership, and power ring far into the reaches into fictional characters such as the famous T’Challa of the movie ‘Black Panther’.

Beyond the fictional artistry inspired by Newton and his famous chair, you can see the appeal even in music covers and performances. The famous wicker chair photo that Huey P. Newton would display to the world would say more about the power of black activists, their efforts, and their determination to create change that words could ever explain. In today’s material consumer and media coverage you can find this iconic chair and its images circulating the web, almost as if it’s to say: “We are still here and are still empowered and prevalent in this society.”. It is a message that isn’t to be forgotten and a symbol that says it all.

Works Cited Pages https://archive.curbed.com/2018/2/20/17032838/black-pantherwakanda -throne-peacock-chair https://liveplayeat.com/peacock-chair/ https:// nmaahc.si.edu/object/nmaahc_2011.58 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huey_P._Newton

hand clothing as an alternative to supporting clothing companies with dubious ethical practices. People who desire authentic vintage clothing typically shop at charity shops since most clothing that is donated is old and out of normal fashion, or is from a recently deceased person who had not updated his clothing for a long time.

Many YouTube channels make thrifting videos showcasing fashionable and unusual finds.

What's the difference?

A

secondhand store is one where the owner has sourced used furniture and other kinds of items, to sell as a business venture. A thrift store is one where the items have been donated to charity, and where they are sold to provide funds for that charity.

Vintage clothing is clothing that is from a previous era within 20 to 100 years ago. The clothing is normally representative of that era and the styles that were popular during that time. Yep, so that means that something from 1990 is technically considered vintage

Second-hand goods are considered to be quite safe.

The South Australian Public Health Directorate says that the health risk of buying used clothing is very low. It explains that washing purchased items in hot water is just one of several ways to eliminate the risk of contracting infectious diseases.

Another reason for charity shop popularity is the chance to occasionally find rare or collectible items at these stores.

In the United States, major national thrift shop operators include Goodwill Industries, Salvation Army, St. Vincent de Paul Thrift Store, and ReStore (operated by Habitat for Humanity). Value Village/Savers, while looking like a thrift store and selling donated goods, is actually a private, for-profit company. Regional operators inOne of the earliest known charity shops in the United clude Deseret Industries in the Western United States, Kingdom was set up by the Wolverhampton Society for the Blind (now called the Beacon Centre for the Blind) in and those run by Bethesda Lutheran Communities in 1899 to sell goods made by blind people to raise money the Upper Midwest. Many local charitable organizations, for the Society. During World War I, various fund-raising both religious and secular, operate thrift stores. Common activities occurred, such as a charity bazaar in Shepherd Market, London, which made £50,000 for the Red Cross. among these are missions, children's homes, homeless shelters, and animal shelters. In addition, some thrift stores are operated by churches as fundraising venues However, it was during the Second World War that the that support activities and missionary work. charity shop became widespread. Edinburgh University Settlement opened their "Thrift Shop for Everyone" in Edinburgh in 1937, the Red Cross opened up its first charity shop at 17 Old Bond Street, London in 1941. For Resource: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki the duration of the war, over two hundred “permanent” Red Cross gift shops and about 150 temporary Red Cross shops were opened. A condition of the shop license issued by the Board of Trade was that all goods offered for sale were gifts. Purchase for re-sale was forbidden. The entire proceeds from sales had to be passed to the Duke of Gloucester’s Red Cross or the St John Fund. Most premises were lent free of rent and in some cases owners also met the costs of heating and lighting.

The first Oxfam charity shop in the United Kingdom was established by Cecil Jackson-Cole in Broad Street, Oxford, and began trading in December 1947.

In the early 2010s, shopping at a charity shop became popular enough to earn a name in the United States: thrifting. Environmentalists may prefer buying second-hand goods as this uses fewer natural resources and would usually do less damage to the environment than by buying new goods would, in part because the goods are usually collected locally. In addition, reusing second-hand items is a form of recycling, and thus reduces the amount of waste going to landfill sites.

People who oppose sweatshops often purchase second-

photography Edward R Carley III

R. K. PANNELL Publisher/Editor-In-Chief

STORIES Jasmyne Daniels Rachel Powell

PHTOGRAPHERS E. Richard Carley , III Jaimie Uquizo

MAKEUP ARTIST Le’ Ana Reveles-Martinez

FEATURED Crossroads Clothing Exchange Discovery Thrift Shop ECO Thrift Freestyle Clothing Exchange Goodwill Upscale Thrift Pacific Thrift W.E.AV.E. Works

JAMES THOMAS HEAD manages to keep his head above ground as he soars to new innovative heights.

With a creative mind that keeps growing with every design, James, from designing costumes to design for the likes of MC Hammer, there is no stopping this him.

As the interview call ends, I take a few moments to gather myself, slowly and carefully sifting through the jotted down notes that I had taken. It was a page of many notes, but these notes were the blueprint to enable me to tell the story of a man with an immense passion for fashion.

The notes would open up the grounds to tell the story of a man who dedicates himself to putting variety, versatility, and creativity into each piece he comes to create.

As I lay my eyes on the hour and thirty minutes worth of notes, I looked at the pieces utilized to tell of the biography of Oakland, California’s own fashion designer, James T. Head. Head would begin his journey in Oakland, California.

He became a self-taught designer and sewer at a young age, often picking up many skills from his mother who he’d known to be selftaught and skillful in fixing many

things as well. As he got older he would utilize these skills and take them with him to one of his first jobs as a fabric store employee. His newfound job would help him develop his knowledge of fashion and the works behind the creation of clothing. In his youth, he would begin enjoying Oakland’s nightlife by often going dancing with his friends, one of them being the young MC Hammer at the time.

They’d often go out into the night looking for places to dance and would even begin to compete on occasion with each other at these night clubs to add onto the fun.

Many of the outfits they’d wear, Head had put together from the copious amounts of

By Jasmyne Daneils

PLAY BALLGOWN

clothing pieces he could find in numerous thrifting stores. James had highly enjoyed competing, creating, and dancing with friends in his youth, but he began to become swooned by the music, people, and music artists that surrounded him and how they made an influence on trending fashion. His appeal to fashion was noticed by many, especially his childhood friend MC Hammer who, at the time, was on the rise into fame. As a long time friend and witness to James’ potential, MC Hammer would offer James a chance at designing his first public piece for MC Hammer's very own “Have You Seen Her” video for the Rolling Stone Magazine cover, setting off his newfound career into fashion and design.

As time passed James would create numerous pieces for MC Hammer and his team, such as the famous baggy, loose looks that MC would utilize for dancing freely, as his rise into fame continued. But one day a member of MC’s team would take notice of the work James would create outside of their partnered work, James’ own Sagwear jeans which happened to be one of the many kinds of clothing he created personally. An immense spark of

interest and one line uttered from that team member changed James’ career forever. “I’m going to put those jeans into every mall in America” Soon enough Head’s jeans would touch every major store in America as promised cont. pg 27

Off

‘Who, when, where, and how were these (fashionable) letterman jackets brought into the world we know today?’

T

he spring time is beginning to arrive and I have been more and more in the mood to clean each passing week. I’ve spent time sorting through my old work from middle school, drawing books that recorded precious progress, and medals from a time that I never truly realized I lived through until I found these archives of personal artifacts. But as I rummaged through these boxes, I began going through my old clothes and I found a letterman jacket. At first I didn’t recognize it but then the soft fabric filling the capital letter ‘A’ reminded me of sweet memories from third and fifth

grade. The hot Arizona sun was blazing on me but for some reason, that jacket was always seen being fitted to my stubby little arms despite weather conditions. As I recollected those memories it made me think about how I also used to have such special interest in those letterman jackets, curating it into one of my favorite fashion statements on special evenings and occasions.

The way the leather sits on the arms as it compliments the fabrics of the torso piece, or as the very mascot of your sweater can be represented so proudly on the bold, customary embroidery on your chest. Letterman jackets would hold a dear place in my young, fashionista heart so, of course, I begged to ask myself the very question that takes you to a place of pure curiosity and wonder: ‘who, when, where, and how were these (fashionable) letterman jackets brought into the world we know today?’ With my mind racing for the satisfaction of an answer, I had to delve a little deeper into the background. Now, we all see varsity jackets in everyday life, fashion, and trends that come and go. But the main place that Letterman, or varsity, jackets are spotted is in and around the school campus’.

Why of all places must they be so prominent there? Well, that’s because that’s where Letterman jackets were actually originally created, Harvard University to be specific. Many athletes during the 1860’s had a goal to express their dominance, dedication, and skills in their sport of choice. Coaches often helped decipher which players had the greatest potential by using these attributes, separating and utilizing them to the fullest. But this particular year at Harvard, coaches wanted their most elite players to

stand out and in the most notable way possible. With these ideas in mind, they soon decided to gift these elite players with “thick, wool sweaters made and embellished…with an oversized H. The coaches dubbed the recipients of these sweaters as “the Letterman” (Historydaily.org, Harris). The introduction of these new sportswear served not only as a recognition of athletic ability and prowess, but also marked the first ever Letterman jackets to be created and worn. Over the years they would become used for not only sports, but fashion and romance as well. During the 1950’s letterman jackets became prominent in the upcoming teen trends and even commitment to relationships in high schools and college. Students would begin to wear them for school spirit and to make fashion statements. Athletes would receive the jackets and give them to their significant others as “a symbol of his love and commitment” as well, a symbol of genuine love, even if that meant a little jealousy spouting from ex-lovers. In the end, Letterman jackets became amongst the many pieces of attire that would make everlasting statements and impacts on the trending consumer world. Not only do these jackets serve as athletic achievement, but they’ve gone on to represent high merits “in band, choir, robotics, academic excellence, sports, and art in schools and colleges across the nation. From the external aspect, fashion and design have gone on to cherish and perpetuate the letterman jackets, sweaters and styles.

By Jasmyne Daneils

WHITE OUT Form fitting, flared sleeves Lulu’s, paired with a floppy hat Croft&Barrow and Jessica Simpson Shoes Freestyle Clothing Exchange-Roseville photography Edward R Carley III

DAY OR NIGHT Lace mini dress, Pretty Little Thing, thigh high boots, Glaze, Freestyle Clothing Exchange photography Edward R Carley III

FADE TO BLACK Diamond zippered top, Belldini Pacific Thrift, photography Edward R Carley III

BEDTIME STORIES Silver swirl pattern top, Alex Evenings, Playboy PJs Pacific Thrift photography Edward R Carley III

JAMES HEAD... from small vendors to larger ones such as JCPenney and Macy’s. Once his career took off, it became about him adding his own spin to the many designs he would publish. Head believes in knowing your own craft and knowing your own style. During the interview, I inquired about what the definition of design and fashion is. As the other end of the phone line got momentarily quiet, he finally began with “Fashion is an illusion”.

James explained to me that fashion is an illusion that can be manipulated and curated to fit the uniqueness of your very own style and visions whether they are created through sketching or hands-on designing and outlining. You are able to use the “beauty in everything” to make it a striking piece. Through trial and error you can curate new and unique spins to your designs and make them stand out amongst the rest. Being intune with your passions, expressing them throughout your work, and knowing what platforms to express them through was named as an important part of designing.

In the career of fashion being preFLOWER CHILD Sheer netted two-piece adorned to create is said pared and determined with 140 blue simulated roses with to be ahat, major part in the success of fashmatching James Thomas Head ion as well. As he explained this all to me, he sent me pictures of his work that expressed just that. Head has worked with numerous other people farther into his career such as “Rolling Stone, Peo

ple, Ebony, Jet, Essence and Right On Magazines…, The Grammy’s, Billboard, and the American Music Award Shows” (http:// stronghawkmovie.com/crew/ja meshead/). His dedication, passion, and style reverberates through time and through the people who have experienced his skills. He hopes to create his own boutique in the upcoming years and, with the many projects and pieces he has done, that goal is soon and upcoming. Here are some extra stills of James’ awe inspiring work:

PLANTED FLORALS Casual plaid and floral print dress worn by Xenia, WEAVE WORKS photography Edward R Carley III

DIAMOND FRIEND Xenia wears a Nicole Bakti Rhinestone trimmed Evening Gown, Goodwill photography Edward R Carley III

TWEEDALEE DEE Xenia wears tweed dress, Shein, faux fur jacket, Wild Fable, gloves and necklace, Upscale Thrift photography Edward R Carley III

DINE IN WINE Form fitting Burgundy sleek dress Socialite Upscale Thrift photography Edward R Carley III

Resplendence In The Park Luxury Picnics Resplendence.lux_picnics 916.800.2576

BUILT I1927 AT THE PEAK OF THE PROHIBITION ERA It was an opulent establishment, complete with a beauty salon and barbershop, that served as a riverboat way station. It was also rumored to be a bordello. The lower level was a speakeasy, offering bootleg whiskey and jazz to a clientele in search of a good time.

There was even a trap door on the floor that allegedly opened to reveal a tunnel running under the road to a hidden doorway at the river’s edge. It’s not difficult to imagine the type of nocturnal activities that the secret passageway has see!

Speculation mixed with fact generated a good amount of notoriety that brought with it a certain cachet. The Ryde attracted celebrities of all types from President Herbert Hoover to local and state politicians to movie stars and mobsters.

In later years the Hotel became a boarding house for the men and women who built the Delta levees and pioneered the area’s thriving agricultural industry. Over time, the Ryde has experienced many incarnations and owners including the Lon Chaney, Jr. family. At one point the name was changed to the Grand Island Inn. During the 1980’s it was even a rock’n’roll mecca!

It was a pleasure and a beautiful day shooting at the Ryde Hotel. The staff was great and so was the food.

Ryde Hotel 14340 CA-160, Walnut Grove, CA 916.776.1318

Photographed by Jaimie Uquizo

ECO THRIFT

Photographed by Jaimie Uquizo

ECO THRIFT

DISCOVERY SHOP

Tisha wears double breast blazer, Ralph Lauran, jeans, Calvin Klein, Photographed by Jaimie Uquizo

Discovery Shop DISCOVERY SHOP

Xenia wears single breast blazer, Capacity, jeans, Van Heusen, Photographed by Jaimie Uquizo

DISCOVERY SHOP

Maria wears double breast blazer, The Author Richards Woman, jeans, Celebrity Pink, Photographed by Jaimie Uquizo

THE HOUSE THAT GUCCI BUILT

I

have Loved Gucci ALL my life it seems! Remembering one time at a thrift store somewhere I don’t recall (maybe San Francisco when I attended State) but being in my youth and stumbling upon a mock, imitation if you will, Gucce I’ll call it lol.

Way before it was really like a trend to buy ‘knock offs.’ Which is also portrayed, in the movie, I almost broke my neck trying to make the purchase of a duffle bag and matching wallet!! It was the blue and white, plastic like substance-not even material or leather with the G’s all over it!! And I more than likely spent my last…that’s the effect Gucci had on me then and still does now.

When I knew the movie was slated for the BiG screen, I marked my calendar in anticipation.

Timeless and refreshing!! Bar NONE my favorite designer. So, to learn about the brand in greater detail and the remarkable careers, the family members had was invigorating. I hated to learn of the son’s demise, however. I knew there had been problems, but not that he was murdered L I was so immersed in pleasure as I sat in the dark and crowded theater with my friend, I could barely move for fear of missing something. There was also NO need for popcorn or snacks I was full already, just being there in the moment, relishing every sweet drop of entertainment!

Becky Johnston and Sara Gay Forden did an excellent job of writing the story. The latter spent 15 years researching Italian Designers and Becky also is the screenwriter of ‘The Prince of Tides’ (1991) ‘The House of Gucci’ was set in 1978 and that period resonates with me as I was in the 8th grade just really understanding my sense of fashion and wanting to look good. I did not own any type of clothes I saw in the movie other than jeans. All the outfits in the movie struck me and made me ‘ooh and aww’.

The bright colors and the rich fabrics seem to have speaking roles themselves-so vivid. The cast of ‘The House of Gucci’ was superb leading the pack, one of my favs Al Pacino.

Not expecting to laugh so much the movie is also full of humor.

By Rachel Powell

THE TRUTH NEVER GETS OLD AND ALWAYS WANTS TO BE SEEN

SOJOURNER TRUTH AFRICAN HERITAGE MUSEUM 2251 Florin Road Sacramento CA sojomuseum.com www.sojoartsmuseum.org

FREE WILL FOUNDATION, INC. 2590 21st Street Sacramento CA 916.272.2820

Women Escaping a Violent Environment Recycled Fashions 2401 ARDEN WAY SACRAMENTO CA 916.643.4606

YUMMY HONEY 100% Kosher www.yummyhoney.co